THE ONLY DISINFECTANT
FIT FOR HOUSEHOLD USE.
The Universal Disinfectant.
FRAGRANT. NON-POISONOUS. DORS NOT STAIN.
FLUID, POWDER. & SOAPS.
PAMPHLET FEEE OLT JLE=E=XjXCja.TIOTT.
THE “SANITAS” GO., Ltd., LONDON.
LEEDS UNIVERSITY LIBRARY
Classmark:
Y HOUSEHOLD !
Butter, for Puddings, Cakes,
poking.
^aves trouble of Chopping l
as far as Two Pounds of
sweet.
S PURE.
f P. A. ESTCOURT,
SION DEALERS.
IS ABSOLUTELY
f\
'■St
JN, MANCHESTER .
Ill
3 0106 01107
569
Loc. K- 4 1906
BEETON ( Isabella Mary )
Cat. [Book of household management J
OAKEY’S SPECIALITIES.
WELLINGTON KNIFE POLISH.
Prepared for Oakey's Patent Rubber Knife Boards and all Prtent Knife-
Cleaning Machines. In Canisters. 3d., 6d., 1/-, 2/6, & 4/- each.
“ POLYBRILLIANT” ROUGE POMADE.
For Cleaning all Metals. ' In Tins, Id., 2d., 3d., & Gd. ea©h
WELLINGTON BLACK LEAD.
The Best for Polishing Stoves, Grates, and Ironwork, without waste,
dirt, or dust. In Id., 2d., & 4d. Blocks; and 1/- Boxes.
FURNITURE CREAM.
For Cleaning and Polishing Furniture, Patent Leather, Oilcloth, &c.
Glass and Stone Bottles, 6d. & 1 /-
BRUNSWICK BLACK.
For Beautifying and Preserving Stoves and all kinds of Ironwork
Bottles, 6d., 1/-, & 21-
Sl LVERSMITHS’ SOAP.
(Kon-Mercurial) for Cleaning and Polishing Silver, Electro-Plate, Plate
Glass, Marble. &c. Tablets, 6d.
Sold Everywhere by Ironmongers, Grocers, Druggists, Oilmen, ,Vr.
JOHN OAKEY & SONS, Ltd., LONDON, S.E.
Milkmaid
FULL CREAM
TRADE MARK
Milk
Makes the Best
Puddings
and
Ice Creams,
and is
the Best Substitute
for
Mothers’ Milk.
%<
BAKING POWDER
THE BEST THAT MONEY CAN BUY.
Important to Families, Proprietors of Schools, Boarding
Houses, &c. To avoid disappointment when buying Baking
Powder, insist upon having Borwick’s, which has a reputation
of 60 years for the best bread, cakes, pastry, and puddings.
For Economy the 2s. 6d. & 5s. sizes are Recommended.
NO HOUSEHOLD SHOULD BE WITHOUT IT.
THE PERFECT WHEAT FOOD.
DAINTY, NOURISHING.
A gratis and post free Sample will be sent on receipt of Post Card.
JAMES MARSHALL (Glasgow), Limited,
25, East Cumberland Street, Glasgow.
“ FAROLA is immeasurably superior to arrowroot, corn flour,
sago, etc. With milk it forms exquisite puddings, and in the
nursery it will prove a valuable variety which children will take
with avidity.” — Liverpool M edico-Chirurgical Journal.
“ An idral form of giving farinaceous food
with milk.” — A London Physician.
Awarded Gold Medals at the two important International Exhibitions
held in 1886 — Edinburgh and Liverpool — two years before any imitatiom
were in the market.
FAROLA is a highly refined preparation of Wheat, which conserves all the nutritive
elements and fine flavour naturally belonging to the purest part of the grain. All irritating
and indigestible matter has been removed by careful treatment, mechanical means only being
employed.
FAROLA will satisfy a robust appetite, but it is specially suited for invalids and children.
MRS. BEETON’S
BOOK OF
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
j\ rs E A Thubron
BouSbt Aay 24tb \906
FISH
i. — Red Mullet. 2. — Grayling 3. — John Dory. 4. — Mackerel. 5. — Cod.
6.— Whiting. 7. — Salmon. 8.— Herring. 9. — Plaice. 10.— Flounder. 11. — Gurnet.
12. — Crayfish.
MRS. BEETON’S
BOOK OF
HOUSEHOLD
MANAGEMENT
A GUIDE TO
COOKERY IN ALL BRANCHES
DAILY DUTIES
MISTRESS & SERVANT
HOSTESS & GUEST
MARKETING
TRUSSING & CARVING
MENU MAKING
HOME DOCTOR
SICK NURSING
THE NURSERY
HOME LAWYER
NEW EDITION
REVISED, ENLARGED, BROUGHT UP TO DATE,
AND FULLY ILLUSTRATED
i
LONDON
WARD, LOCK & CO., LIMITED,
WARWICK HOUSE:, SALISBURY SQUARE, E.C.
1906
UNIVERSITY
LIBRARY
LEEHS
/L ><
PREFACE TO NEW EDITION
For nearly half a century Mrs. Beeton has been the guide, philosophei
and friend of countless happy homes. In every English-speaking
country her “ Household Management ” has appeared amongst the
wedding presents of a bride as surely as the proverbial salt cellars, and
thousands of grateful letters testify that it has often proved the most
useful gift of all. Many competitors have paid Mrs. Beeton the com-
pliment of imitation and adaptation up to, and sometimes beyond,
the utmost limits the law allows, but her work stands to-day, as of old,
without a rival. Press and public have alike proclaimed its merits.
Every writer dealing with the reality or romance of domestic life has
recorded its constant rescue of young housekeepers from perplexity
and woe. Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, in his great study of married life,
entitled “ A Duet, with an occasional Chorus,” makes his heroine say —
“ Mrs. Beeton must have been the finest housekeeper in the world.
Therefore, Mr. Beeton must have been the happiest and most comfort-
able man ” ; and his hero concludes, that “ this book has more wisdom
to the square inch than any work of man ” — a wonderful testimonial
when one remembers that the last edition thus praised contains more
than 80,000 square inches of closely packed information.
The book of Household Management has not, however, maintained
its great reputation solely by the merits of its first issue. It is time
that Mrs. Beeton brought to its origin such ability, method, and con-
scientious care, that with the exception of corrections demanded by
changing prices, processes and materials, her work stands practically
unaltered to the present day. But if nothing has been taken away,
very much has been added. Eight years after the first appearance of
the book, an enlarged and revised edition was found necessary. Since
then the changing years have brought extra information, new features,
and increased size, till we find the new edition we are now introducing
VI
PREFACE TO NEW EDITION
to public notice has twice the number of pages and is four times the
size of its modest ancestor.
It may seem strange that a book, originally considered most com-
prehensive and complete, should have needed such transformation.
The world, however, has travelled of late at electric speed, and the
far-reaching changes of time have touched household affairs from
standpoints apparently far remote. •
In cookery, for example, where the growth of our pages is most notice-
able, many causes have contributed to change. We have relinquished
almost entirely the old British prejudices against things foreign, and
adopted, in great measure, those French methods which established a
bond of union among good cooks all the world over, long before V entente
cordiale became a recognized newspaper phrase. Increased habits of
travel have taught us the favourite dishes of other countries, while
improved means of transport have brought to our doors fresh food
supplies from all quarters of the earth. Cookery schools and classes
have also educated many mistresses to the possibilities of the art, and
encouraged them to insist on more variety and delicacy in their daily
fare than the plain cook of old was wont to furnish. In short, every
tendency of modern life, with greater wealth possibly — greater luxury
certainly — is towards a tremendous enlargement of everyday cookery.
In the present issue is given all information necessary to meet present-
day demands in this respect.
Amongst the principal features of our new issue are —
Appearance. — The book has been re-composed throughout from
a special fount of new type, of size and clearness to suit modern re-
quirements, and printed on the best English paper, and strongly and
artistically bound in half leather.
Illustrations. — The book has been copiously illustrated in the
most useful manner. Hundreds of photographic reproductions of
actual dishes, processes, and materials have been included. No ex-
pense, however great, has been spared in obtaining the best possible
results. The numerous coloured plates have .been faithfully reproduced
from nature, and printed in fourteen colours in the highest style of
lithographic art.
Cookery. — All the old cookery recipes have been carefully re-tested
and prices and details altered wherever necessary. More than two
thousand new recipes are given, contributed by Mr. C. Herman Senn,
PREFACE TO NEW EDITION vii
rhe celebrated head of the National Training School of Cookery, assisted
by some of the most famous chefs and teachers of the art that the
world contains.
Prices. — The cost of the recipes and the prices of articles mentioned
in this book have been most carefully, minutely, and diligently averaged
from lists compiled from the most reliable authorities all over the king-
dom. The task of estimating these prices has been among the most
difficult and perplexing problems encountered in revising this work.
Some provisions fluctuate greatly in price from day to day, whilst a
very great difference indeed exists between the cost of purchases made
in town or country, for cash or for credit, by mistress or by maid, selected
personally or as allotted to you to suit the convenience of a tradesman.
After a most minute consideration of the factors involved, we believe
the costs given in our recipes should hardly ever be exceeded ; whilst
the housewife who gives the trouble needed to buy in the most advan-
tageous manner, will often be able to effect a very considerable saving
on the prices quoted
Trussing. — This, a frequent difficulty in small households, has been
carefully explained and illustrated by numerous photographs, showing
the methods of the best professionals.
Carving. — Our ancestors held a practical knowledge of this art
indispensable to the education of every gentleman. We moderns also
realize how much a really good carver can do towards diminishing
waste, distributing choice portions equally, and maintaining the sightly
appearance of a joint. The art has been thoroughly dealt with and
very fully illustrated by a unique series of photographs of the methods
of the best professional carvers.
Serviettes. — The most recent and popular designs are illustrated,
and diagrams given showing clearly how every fold is made in producing
these patterns.
Colonial and Foreign Cookery.— This section has been enor-
mously increased. Australian, American, Canadian, South African,
German, Italian, and all foreign cookeries, have been comprehensively
dealt with, so that Britons living under other skies may learn how to
combine the dishes of their adopted country with those of the Mother-
land. We at home may also gain variety in our own menus, and learn
how to give a complimentary and characteristic repast when welcoming
guests from abroad.
PREFACE TO NEW EDITION
viii
Vegetarian Cookery, which is so strongly believed in and practised
by many thousands, has been carefully dealt with.
Chafing Dish and Casserole Cookery, now so popular with cooks,
and indispensable in Flat life and for all amateur cookery and impromptu
meals, is dealt with in a new chapter.
The Medical and Nursing Chapters have been contributed by
two of our most eminent physicians.
The Legal Memoranda has been contributed by a well-known
barrister, author of several standard law books.
We take this opportunity of expressing our gratitude to many
eminent authorities and great firms for the courtesy, thoroughness,
and disinterested zeal with which they have given time, information,
facilities, and assistance to us, whilst engaged in our long, laborious,
but engrossing task of compressing all information of practical value to
our readers into the new “ Mrs. Beeton.”
It would be out of place in a preface to allude to all the many features
of our new issue. Many are there, and all the old Mrs. Beeton as well.
For details, and also because it is easy in a book of this size to look for
information in the wrong place, we would ask our readers to make use
of the very comprehensive index and tables of contents furnished here-
with.
All these new' features have had one disastrous effect from the pub-
lishers’ point of view. The book as it now stands is half as large again
as the previous edition, and is offered at the same price. We believe
this to be by far the greatest value for money ever given in book pro-
duction. We can only ask our readers to pardon the increased bulk,
and trust that this new and enlarged edition of MRS. BEETON’S
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT will meet with the same hearty
welcome its old and well-tried predecessors have always enjoyed.
Warwick House,
Salisbury Square, E.C.
1906.
ABRIDGED PREFACE TO THE FIRST
EDITION
I must frankly own that, if I had known beforehand the labour which
this book has entailed, I should never have been courageous enough to
commence it. What moved me, in the first instance, to attempt a
work like this, was the discomfort and suffering which I had seen brought
about by household mis-management. I have always thought that
there is no more fruitful source of family discontent than badly-cooked
dinners and untidy ways. Men are now so well served out of doors —
at clubs, hotels and restaurants — that, to compete with the attractions
of these places, a mistress must be thoroughly acquainted with the
theory and practice of cookery, as well as all the other arts of making'
and keeping a comfortable home.
In this book I have attempted to give, in the chapters devoted to cook-
ery, an intelligible arrangement to every recipe, a list of the ingredients,
a plain statement of the method of preparing each dish, and a careful
estimate of its cost , the number of people for whom sufficient, and the
time when seasonable. Friends in England, Scotland, Ireland, France
and Germany have very materially aided me. A diligent comparison
with the works of the best modern writers on cookery has also been
necessary to the faithful fulfilment of my task. But in the department
belonging to the Cook I have striven to make my work something more
than a Cookery-Book, and have, therefore, given a short account of the
natural history of the animals and vegetables which we use as food. I
have followed the animals from their birth to their appearance on the
table ; have described their management ; the position of the various
joints ; and the methods of carving Meat, Poultry and Game. Skilful
artists have designed the numerous drawings which illustrate many im-
portant and interesting items. The coloured plates are a novelty not
without value.
l
B
2
PREFACE
Towards the end of the work will be found valuable chapters on
the “ Management of Children,” “ The Doctor,” “ Legal Memoranda,”
which have been contributed by a great physician and an eminent
solicitor. I wish here to acknowledge the kind letters and congratula-
tions I have received during the progress of this work, and have only
further to add, that I trust the result of the four years’ incessant labour
which I have expended will not be altogether unacceptable to some of
my countrymen and countrywomen.
248, Strand. 1861.
ISABELLA BEETON.
GENERAL CONTENTS
CHAP. PAGE
I The Mistress . . . . . . . • » 9
II The Housekeeper ....... 32
III The Cook ........ 37
IV The Kitchen ........ 43
V Marketing ... ...... 82
VI Introduction to Cookery ..... 103
VII Soups . . . . . . . . .129
VIII Recipes for Soups ...... 138
IX Gravies, Sauces and Forcemeats .... 207
X Recipes for Gravies, Sauces and Forcemeats . .214
XI Fish 289
XII Recipes for Cooking Fish ..... 304
XIII General Remarks on Cooking Meat . . . 404
XIV General Observations on Quadrupeds . . . 4r4
XV Recipes for Cooking Veal ..... 435
XVI Recipes for Cooking Beef ..... 492
XVII Sheep and Lamb ....... 543
XVIII Recipes for Cooking Lamb ..... 559
XIX Recipes for Cooking Mutton .... 578
XX General Observations on the Common Hoc. . .615
XXI Recipes for Cooking Pork ..... 632
XXII Poultry. . . . . . . . .661
XXIII Recipes for Cooking Poultry ..... 669
XXIV Game ......... 726
XXV Recipes for Cooking Game . . . . -735
XXVI Recipes for Cooking Hare and Rabbit . . . 761
XXVII Tinned and Preserved Foods .... 779
XXVIII Recipes for Tinned and Preserved Foods . . 783
XXIX General Observations on Vegetables . . . 799
XXX Recipes for Cooking Vegetables . . . .812
XXXI Pastry Making, Tarts, Tartlets, Icing, etc. . . 879
XXXII Puddings, Souffles, Omelets and Fritters . . 913
XXXIII Cold Sweets . . • . . . . . 985
XXXIV Dessert, Dessert Sweets and Sweetmeats . . 1066
XXXV Salads, Salad Dressings and Sandwiches . . 1092
XXXVI Preserves, Jams, Pickles, etc. . . . . .1124
XXXVII Recipes for Preserves, Jams, Pickles, etc. . . 1131
XXXVIII Savouries, Hors d’Oeuvres, and Breakfast Dishes . 1190
3
4
GENERAL CONTENTS
CHAP.
PAGE
XXXIX
The Art of Carving at Table .
. 1258
XL
Farinaceous Preparations
• 1275
XLI
Milk, Butter, Cheese and Eggs
. 1285
XLII
Recipes for Milk, Butter, Cheese and
Eggs
• 129s
XLI 1 1
Vegetarian Cookery ....
• 1317
XLIV
Invalid Cookery ....
• 1344
XLV
Recipes for Invalid Cookery .
• 1350
XLVI
Bread, Biscuits and Cakes
. 1388
XLVII
Recipes for Making Bread, Biscuits and Cakes
. 1408
XLVI 1 1
General Observations on Beverages
• 1465
XLIX
Recipes for Beverages
■ 1473
L
Chafing Dish and Casserole Cookery
• 1515
LI
French Cookery ....
• 1525
LII
German and Austrian Cookery
• 1534
LIII
Italian Cookery ....
• 1550
LIV
Spanish Cookery ....
. 1568
LV
Jewish Cookery ....
• 1571
LVI
Australian Cookery
• 1579
LVII
South African Cookery
. 1588
LVIII
Indian Cookery ....
• 1599
LIX
American and Canadian Cooke ry
. 1614
LX
Trussing Poultry and Game
• 1632
LXI
Herbs, Condiments, and Auxiliaries
• 1638
LXII
Glossary of Culinary Terms
. 1652
LXIII
English and French Names of Articles
of Food
• 1673
LXIV
Meals : Their Importance and Arrangement
. 1676
LXV
Table Decoration ....
• 1695
LXVI
Serviettes .....
. 1698
LX VI I
Menu Making and Specimen Menus .
• I7H
LXVIII
Domestic Servants and their Duties
. 1761
LXIX
Household Recipes
• 1790
LXX
The Doctor .....
. 1820
LXXI
The Nurse .....
• 1879
LXXII
The Nursery .....
. 1896
LXXIII
Homceopathic Medicine
• 1925
LXXIV
Legal Memoranda ....
• J933
Analytical Index ....
. 2007
LIST OF COLOURED PLATES
FACING
PAGE
Fish, i. Red Mullet, Grayling, Salmon, Cod, etc. .
Fruit, i. Apricots, Cherries, Melon, etc.
FIousehold Utensils .....
Soups ......
Fish, 2. Crab, Oyster, Sturgeon, Halibut, etc.
Fish, 3. Lobster, Crab, Mayonnaise Salmon, etc.
Fish, 4. Salmon, Turbot, Trout, Soles, etc.
A Prize Shorthorn ......
Entrees . .......
Joints, i. Sirloin of Beef, Boiled Beef, etc.
A Southdown Wether .....
Cold Collation Dishes .....
Joints, 2. Loin of Pork, Haunch of Mutton, etc.
Bacon and Ham ......
Game and Poultry . . ....
Game, i. Partridge, etc. .....
Game, 2. Pheasant, etc. . ....
Vegetables, i. Asparagus, etc.
Vegetables, 2. Celery, Leeks, etc. .
Sweets ........
Fruit, 2. Grapes, Pineapple, etc.
Salads ........
Chee se .......
Invalid Cookery ......
Tea Table . . -* .
Dinner Table a la Russe ....
Dinner Table — Old Style ....
A Supper Buffet for Ball Room or Evening Party
Menu and Guest Cards .....
Supper Tables with Buffet ....
Frontispiece
72
129
289
336
384
416
464
496
545
560
608
656
688
736
768
816
864
1008
1072
1104
1304
1344
1392
1681
1688
1695
1728
1760
6
LIST OF FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS
A Breakfast Table
The Kitchen
A Royal Kitchen
Cooking Ranges .
Stoves and Cooking Range
Gas Cooking Ranges
Cooking, etc., by Electric Heat
Kitchen Utensils, i. Stock Pot, etc-
Kitchen Utensils, ?.
Kitchen Utensils, 3.
Kitchen Utensils, 4.
Marketing Guide, i.
Marketing Guide, 2.
Marketing Guide, 3.
Marketing Guide, 4.
Marketing Guide, 5.
A Dinner Table for Six Persons
A Supper Table for Two Persons
Preserved Foods : Pickles, Store Sauces,
Fish Entrees. Salmon, Turbot, etc.
Fish, i. Boiled Turbot, etc.
Boiled Cod, etc. .
Red Mullet, etc.
Fillets of Sole, etc.
Steamed Sole, etc.
Lobster Cutlets, etc.
Roasting Jack, etc.
Paste Board and Pin
Chafing Dish, etc.
Bullock .
Beef
Sheep
Mutton
Pork and Veal
Fish,
Fish,
Fish,
Fish,
Fish,
Cattle
Entrees, i.
Entrees, 2.
Cold Chicken and Veal
Beef
Sheep .
Entrees, 3.
Entrees, 4.
Entrees, 5.
Sweetbreads, etc.
Lamb Cutlets, etc.
Mutton Cutlets, etc.
Pigs . .
Entrees, 6. Chicken, Quail, etc.
Poultry .
Cold Collation Entrees
Tinned Meat .
facing
page
16
37
43
48
52
54
56
58
. 62
68
74
82
84
86
88
90
105
. 120
. 208
304
329
344
352
368
393
. 400
. 408
. 481
515
542
572
576
592
617
672
704
713
779
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
7
FACING
PAGE
Preserved and Tinned Meats
783
Preserved Foods : Tinned and Bottled
786
Vegetables,
1. Onions, Shallots, etc
809
Vegetables,
2. Cucumber, Celery, etc.
824
Vegetables,
3. Dressed ....
UU
Puddings
944
Cold Sweets, i. Apple Amber, etc. .
992
Cold Sweets
2. Trifles ....
ioor
Cold Sweets, 3. Sponge Cake, etc. .
1016
Sweets
1033
Ices
1048
Dessert, i.
Walnuts, etc.
1063
Dessert, 2.
Spanish Nuts, etc.
1080
Dessert. 3.
Bananas, etc.
1088
Preserves and Tinned Fruit
1152
Hors d’ Oeuvres . . . ...
1195
Eggs
1206
Carving, i.
Crab .....
1258
Carving, 2.
Lobster. ....
1260
Carving, 3.
Sole, Cod, and Plaice .
1262
Carving, 4.
Turbot, Mackerel, and Salmon
1264
Carving, 5.
Beef . ....
1266
Carving, 6.
Calf’s Head, Beef and Ham
1268
Carving, 7.
Mutton .....
1270
Carving. 8.
Mutton and Lamb .
1272
Carving, 9.
Turkey and Duck .
1274
Carving, 10.
Fowl .....
1276
Carving, ii.
Hare .....
1278
Cows
1283
Cheese and
Eggs . ....
1297
Bread .
1408
Biscuits, i
1417
Biscuits, 2
1432
Cakes .
1449
Piping, or Fancy Cake Icing
1461
Fancy Cakes ......
1464
Beverages,
Jellies, etc. ....
1481
Beverages
1496
Earthenware Cooking Utensils .
1521
Trussing, i.
Sections of Fowl Cut in Half
,
,
,
,
1632
Trussing, 2.
To Draw a Fowl ■
,
1634
Trussing, 3.
Fowl for Roasting
.
1636
Trussing, 4.
Fowl for Boiling
•
1638
Trussing, 5.
Poultry, Goose and Hare
*
1440
8 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
FACING
PAGE
Serviettes, i Various ......... 1698
Serviettes, 2. The Bishop ........ 1699
Serviettes, 3. The Fan . . . . . ., . . 1700
Serviettes, 4. The Boats ......... 1701
Serviettes, 5. The Palm, The Lily, and The Cactus . . . 1702
Serviettes, 6. The Slipper ........ 1703
Serviettes, 7. The Pyramid ........ 1704
Serviettes, 8. The Rose and the Star ...... 1705
Serviettes, 9. The Flat Sachet ....... 1706
Serviettes, 10. The Mitre ........ 1707
Serviettes, ii. The Cockscomb ........ 1708
Serviettes, 12. Fleur de Lis Varieties ...... 1709
Serviettes, 13. The Boar’s Head ....... 1710
Serviettes, 14. The Sachet ........ 1711
Serviettes, 15. The Collegian ........ 1712
Serviettes, 16. Various ......... 1712
Serviettes, 17. The Vase ......... 1713
Court Menus, 1 . .......... 1737
Court Menus, 2 .......... 1752
China and Earthenware, 1 . . ....... 1769
The Butler’s Pantry . ......... 1776
China and Earthenware, 2 . ....... 1784
Table Glass . .......... 1792
Household Requisites . ......... 1797
Nursing, i . .......... 1820
To Change Sheets 1840
Nursing, 2 ........... 1865
Nursing, 3 ........... 1880
Invalid Furniture . ......... 1920
SYMINGTON’S
GOLD
MEDAL
PATENT HIGH-PRESSURE STEAM PREPARED
PEA FLOUR
EASILY DIGESTED.
For Thickening Soups, Gravies, &c.
IK PACKETS AND TINS.
TRADE MARK.
WHEAT CRYSTALS.
A Preparation of the Most Nutritious part of Wheat, makes fairy-like
Blanc-Manges, the lightest Milk Puddings, and the daintiest Cakes imagin-
able. Wheat Crystals are quite different to Corn Flour, Ground Rice, &c., as
they contain much less starch, and quite supersede such foods.
► Ziff POXHffD PACKETS.
By all Grocers, or the Manufacturers,
BOWDEN STEAM MILLS, MARKET HARBOROUGH.
ESTABLISHED 1827.
THERE’S ONE best in everything.
In CORN FLOUR it is
Brown & Poison’s “Patent.”
40 years’ experience, reputation, and skill enter
into the making of every packet.
TO SAVE TIME WHEN BAKING, use
Brown & Poison’s
Powder) “ Paisley Flour.”
Cakes, Pastries, Scones, Bread, &c., can be quickly
prepared by simple methods and with little trouble.
The cakes come out of the oven beautifully light,
the pastry is crisp and short.
4
FARROWS
REAL MUSHROOM
KETCHUP
A GRAND GRAVY FLAVOURING.
Is the guaranteed product of freshly gathered
meadow Mushrooms, and imparts a delicious Mush-
room flavour to all Soups, Gravies, Stews, &c.
Housekeepers will find it extremely economical, as
it is practically double the strength of ordinary
ketchups, and is absolutely pure.
Sample Bottle free to all applicant*
mentioning the name and address of
their grocer.
J. FARROW & CO., PETERBOROUGH, ENG.
GOLD MEDAL , LONDON , 1903.
G. S. MUMFORD’S
QUALITY
WEIGHT
PURITY
QUALITY
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To face matter in Front.]
d
FRUIT
ipricots. 2.— White Cherries. 3. — Black Cherries. 4.— White Currants.
5. — Black Currants. 6.— Red Currants. 7. — Melon. 8.— Strawberries. 9. — Raspberries,
10.— Plums (Black Diamonds). 11. — Greengages. 12.— Victoria Plums.
THE MISTRESS
CHAPTER I
The Housewife, Home Virtues, Hospitality, Good
Temper, Dress and Fashion, Engaging Domestics,
Wages of Servants, Visiting, Visiting Cards, Parties,
Etc., Etc.
“ Strength and honour are hev clothing ; and she shall rejoice in time
to come. She openeth her mouth with wisdom ; and in her tongue is the
law of kindness. She looketh well to the ways of her household, and eateth
not the bread of idleness. Her children arise up, and call her blessed ;
her husband also, and he praiseth her.” — Proverbs xxxi. 25-28.
The Functions of the Mistress of a House resemble those of the general
of an army or the manager of a great business concern. Her spirit
will be seen in the whole establishment, and if she performs her
duties well and intelligently, her domestics will usually follow in her
path. Among the gifts that nature has bestowed on woman,
few rank higher than the capacity for domestic management, for
the exercise of this faculty constantly affects the happiness, comfort
and prosperity of the whole family. In this opinion we are borne
out by the author of The Vicar of Wakefield, who says : — “ The
modest virgin, the prudent wife, and the careful matron are much
more serviceable in life than petticoated philosopher's, blustering
heroines, or virago queans. She who makes her husband and her
children happy is a much greater character than ladies described in
romances, whose whole occupation is to murder mankind with shafts
from the quiver of their eyes.”
The Housewife. — Although this word may be used to describe any
mistress of a household, it seems more fittingly applied to those
who personally conduct their domestic affairs than to others who
govern with the assistance of a large staff of well-trained servants.
Times have changed since 1766, when Goldsmith wrote extolling home
virtues ; and in few things is the change more marked than in
woman’s sphere ; but a woman should not be less careful in licr
management or blameless in her life because the spirit of the age gives
her greater scope for her activities. Busy housewives should be
encouraged to find time in the midst of domestic cares for the recrea-
tion and social intercourse which are necessary to the well-being of
9
10
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
all. A woman’s home should be first and foremost in her life, but if she
allow household cares entirely to occupy her thoughts, she is apt to
become narrow in her interests and sympathies, a condition not con-
ducive to domestic happiness. To some overworked women but little
rest or recreation may seem possible, but, generally speaking, the
leisure to be enjoyed depends upon proper methods of work, punctuality,
and early rising. The. object of the present work is to give assistance
to those who desire practical advice in the government of their home.
Early Rising contributes largely to good Household Management ;
she who practises this virtue reaps an ample reward both in health
and prosperity. When a mistress is an early riser, it is almost
certain that her house will be orderly and well managed. On the
contrary, if she remain in bed till a late hour, then the servants, who,
as we have observed, invariably acquire some of their mistress’s charac-
teristics, are likely to become sluggards. To self-indulgence all are
more or less disposed, and it is not to be expected that servants are
freer from this fault than the heads of houses. The great Lord Chatham
gave this advice : — “ I would have inscribed on the curtains of your
bed, and the walls of your chamber, ‘ If you do not rise early, you can
make progress in nothing.’ ” Cleanliness is quite indispensable to
Health, and must be studied both in regard to the person and the
house, and all that it contains. Cold or tepid baths should be employed
every morning. The bathing of children will be treated of under the
heads of “ The Nurse ” and “ The Doctor.” Many diseases would be
less common than they are if the pores of the skin were kept open.
Frugality and Economy are Virtues without which no household can
prosper. The necessity of economy should be evident to every one,
whether in possession of an income barely sufficient for a family’s re-
quirements, or of a large fortune which seems to put financial adversity
out of the question. We must always remember that to manage well
on a small income is highly creditable. “ He is a good waggoner,” says
Bishop Hall, “ that can turn in a little room. To live well in abundance
is the praise of the estate, not of the person. I will study more how to
give a good account of my little than how to make it more.” In this
there is true wisdom, and it may be added that those who can manage
small things well are probably fitted for the management of greater.
Economy and frugality must never, however, be allowed to degenerate
into meanness.
A Judicious Choice of Friends is most essential to the happiness of a
household. An acquaintance who indulges in scandal about her
neighbours should be avoided as a pestilence. While ever attending
to the paramount claims of home, a lady should not altogether neglect
social duties. The daily round of work is much mere pleasant if
cheered by intercourse with friends, who are often able to give, or
pleased to receive, help in the little difficulties that may occur in everyday
life. Another point of view is that most women look forward to some
THE MISTRESS
II
day guiding their daughters in society, and in this cherished hope
have a motive for not abstaining too much from social intercourse.
One is apt to become narrow-minded by living too much in the home
circle ; it is not well to get out of the way of meeting fresh people.
It is important also that children should have the advantage of mixing
with other young people, though of course parents should exercise
every precaution against the evils of bad compan]r.
Friendships should not be hastily formed, or the heart given to every new-
comer. i There are women who smile on every chance acquaintance,
and who have not the courage to reprove vice or defend virtue* Addison,
the great essayist, observes that — “ A friendship which makes the
least noise is very often the most useful ; for which reason, I should
prefer a prudent friend to a zealous one.”
The advice Shakespeare makes Polonius give to his son Laertes is
thoroughly sound : —
Those friends thou hast, and their adoption tried.
Grapple them to thy soul with hoops of sleet;
But do not duil thy palm with entertainment
Of each new-hatched, unfledged comrade.
Hospitality should be practised ; but care must be taken that the love
of company, for its own sake, does not become a prevailing passion ;
such a habit is no longer hospitality, but dissipation. Reality
and sincerity in this, as in all duties of life, should be studied ; for, as
Washington Irving says — “ There is an emanation from the heart
in genuine hospitality which cannot be described, but is immediately
felt, and puts the stranger at once at his ease.” A lady, when she first
undertakes the responsibility of a household, should not attempt to
retain all the mere acquaintances of her youth. Her true and tried
friends are treasures never to be lightly lost, but they, and the friends
she will make by entering her husband’s circle, and very likely by
moving to a new locality, should provide her with ample society.
In Conversation one should never dwell unduly on the petty annoy-
ances and trivial disappointments of the day. Many people get into
the bad habit of talking incessantly of the worries of their servants
and children, not realizing that to many of their hearers these are
uninteresting if not wearisome subjects. From one’s own point of
view, also, it is well not to start upon a topic without having sufficient
knowledge to discuss it with intelligence. Important events, whether
of joy or sorrow, should be told to friends whose sympathy or
congratulation may be welcome. A wife should never allow a word
about any faults of her husband to pass her lips ; and in conversation,
she should keep the counsel of Cowper continually in her memory, —
that it should flow naturally and not
“ As if raised by mere mechanic powers.”
12
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
The secret of our conversation being entertaining or the reverse
consists mainly on our powers of suiting it to the minds of those with
whom we are speaking. With some it is necessary to make but little
effort for they much prefer to talk themselves, and it is then the
duty of the hostess to listen with as much interest as she can
command. Other people are shy, and then a good deal of tact
is required to find out subjects congenial to them, for there are
sure to be some in which they are interested, and it is well for the mis-
tress of a household to know a little of the current topics of the day.
Cheerfulness. — We cannot too strongly insist on the vital importance
of always preserving an equable good temper amidst all the little cares
and worries of domestic life. Many women may be heard to declare
that men cannot realize the petty anxieties of a household. But a
woman must cultivate that tact and forbearance without which no man
can hope to succeed in his career. The true woman combines with
mere tact that subtle sympathy which makes her the loved companion
and friend alike of husband, children and all around her. Stevenson’s
prayer is worth remembering : “ The day returns, and brings us the
petty round of irritating concerns and duties. Help us to play the man,
help us to perform them with laughter and kind faces, let cheerfulness
abound with industry. Give us to go blithely on our business all this
day, bring us to our resting beds weary and content and undishonoured,#
and grant us in the end the gift of sleep.”
On the Important Subject of Dress and Fashion we cannot do better than
quote : “ Let people write, talk, lecture, satirize, as they may, it
cannot be denied that, whatever is the prevailing mode in attire, let it
intrinsically be ever so absurd, it will never look as ridiculous as
another, which, however convenient, comfortable, or even becoming
is totally opposite in style to that generally worn.” A lady’s dress
should be always suited to her circumstances, and varied for different
occasions. The morning dress should be neat and simple, and suitable
for the domestic duties that usually occupy the early part of the day.
This dress should be changed before calling hours ; but it is not in
good taste to wear much jewellery except with evening dress. A lady
should always aim at being well and attractively dressed whilst never
allowing questions of costume to establish inordinate claims on either
time or purse. In purchasing her own garments, after taking account
of the important detail of the length of her purse, she should aim at
adapting the style of the day in such a manner as best suits the require-
ments of her face, figure and complexion, and never allow slavish
adherence to temporary fads of fashion to overrule her own sense of
what is becoming and befitting. She should also bear in mind that
her different costumes have to furnish her with apparel for home wear,
outdoor exercise and social functions, and try to allot due relative
importance to the claims of each.
The advice of Polonius to his son Laertes, in Hamlet, is excellent ;
THE MISTRESS
13
and although given to one of the male sex, will equally apply to
the question of a woman’s dress : —
“ Costly thy habit as thy purse can buy.
But not express’d in fancy; rich, not gaudy;
For the apparel oft proclaims the man.”
Charity is a Duty and privilege that we owe to ourselves as well as to
our needy neighbours. There is, we hope, hardly any one so poor, but
that with a little thought he can give assistance, in works if not in
goods, to others. As a poet has sung — •
“ Is thy cruse of comfort wasting,
Rise and share it with another,
And through all the years of famine
It shall serve thee and thy brother.
For the heart grows rich by giving,
All its wealth is living grain ;
Seeds that moulder in the garner.
Scattered, fill with gold the plain —
Scanty food for one will often
Make a royal feast for two.”
Personal work, care and time are however necessary if our gifts are
to have the best effect. Fortunately, the duty of visiting the poor,
whether in crowded city slums or rustic villages, was never more widely
recognized than at the present time. It should not be necessary to
urge all who undertake this duty to lay aside any patronizing attitude,
which may do untold harm. A heartfelt sense of the real dignity of
honest, self-supporting poverty is one of the first essentials in such work.
Marketing. — Much information for guidance and assistance will be
found in our average price lists in the chapter on “ Marketing ” and in
the observations before the cookery sections for Fish, Meat, Poultry,
Game, Vegetables, Fruit, etc. That the best articles will prove the
cheapest in the long run, and that the purchase of low priced and
untrustworthy substitutes for reliable articles should be avoided,
may be laid down as fundamental rules for marketing. It is most
desirable that whenever possible the mistress should herself purchase
all stores needed for the home. Should the young wife lack know-
ledge upon these subjects, a little personal practice and experience will
soon teach her the best articles to buy and the most reliable places to
deal at.
Accounts of Household Expenditure should always be kept, and kept
punctually and precisely. The best plan for keeping household
accounts is to write down in a daily diary every amount, be it
ever so small, spent each day ; then, at the end of a week or month,
let these payments be ranged under their various heads of Butcher,
Baker, etc. Thus the amounts paid to each tradesman will be seen,
and any week’s or month’s expenses can be contrasted with those of
another. The housekeeping accounts should be balanced not less
than once a month — once a week is better ; and it should be seen
that the money in hand agrees with the accounts. “My advice,”
14
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
said Mr. Micawber to David Copperfield, “ you know. Annual in-
come twenty pounds, annual expenditure nineteen, nineteen six,
result happiness. Annual income twenty pounds, annual expen-
diture twenty pounds, ought and six, result misery. The blossom
is blighted, the leaf is withered, the God of day goes down upon the
dreary scene, and in short you are for ever floored.” Once a
month it is advisable that the mistress overlook her store of glass
and china, marking any breakages on the inventory of these articles.
When a housekeeper is entrusted with these duties, the mistress
should examine her accounts regularly. Then, any increase of expen-
diture can easily be examined, the mistress will have a regular check
upon her expenditure, and the housekeeper who strives to manage her
department well and economically will know that her efforts are
appreciated.
Engaging Servants is one of the most important duties the mistress is
called upon to perform. One of the commonest ways of procuring
servants is to answer advertisements or to insert a notice, setting
forth what kind of servant is required. In these advertisements it is
well to state whether the house is in town or country, and indicate
the wages given. There are many respectable registry-offices, where
good servants may be hired. A good plan is for the mistress to tell her
friends and acquaintances of the vacant place. A lady whose general
relations with her domestics are friendly, and fairly permanent, will
seldom need to employ any of these methods. Suitable applicants
will soon present themselves to fill the vacant places, generally friends
of the domestic who is obliged to leave.
We would here point out an error — and a grave one — into which
some mistresses fall. They do not, when engaging a servant, tell her
all the duties which she will be expected to perform. All the work
which the maid will have to do should be plainly set forth by the
mistress, and understood by the servant. If this plan is not carefully
adhered to, misunderstanding is almost certain to occur, and may not
be easily settled.
Servants’ Character. — It is hardly safe to be guided by a written one
from an unknown quarter ; it is better to have an interview, if possible,
with the former mistress. In this way you will be helped in your
decision as to the fitness of the servant by the appearance of her former
place. No mistress desires a needless change of servants. The proper
way to obtain a personal interview with a servant’s former employer is
to tell the applicant for the situation to ask her former mistress to
appoint a convenient time when you may call on her ; this courtesy
being necessary to prevent any unseasonable intrusion on the part of
a stranger. Your first questions should be relative to the honesty and
general morality of the servant ; and if the replies are satisfactory,
her other qualifications are then to be ascertained. Inquiries should
be very minute, so that you may avoid disappointment and trouble,
THE MISTRESS
15
by knowing the weak points of your domestic. Your questions also
should be brief, as well as to the point.
In giving a Character, it is scarcely necessary to say that one should
be guided by a sense of strict justice. It is not right to recommend a
servant one would not keep oneself. The benefit to the servant herself
is of small advantage, for the failings which she possesses will increase
if indulged with impunity. At the same time, a mistress should never
fail to do strict and impartial justice to any merits of her late servant,
and should always remember the vital value of good references to one
who depends on her labour for a living.
The Treatment of Servants is of the greatest importance to both mistress
and domestics. If the latter perceive that their mistress’s conduct is
regulated by high and correct principles, they will not fail to respect
her ; and if a real desire is shown to promote their comfort, while at
the same time a steady performance of their duty is exacted, then
well-principled servants will be anxious to earn approval, and their
respect will not be unmingled with affection.
A lady should never allow herself to forget the important duty of
watching over the moral and physical welfare of those beneath her roof.
Without seeming unduly inquisitive, she can always learn something of
their acquaintances and holiday occupation, and should, when neces-
sary, warn them against the dangers and evils of bad company. An
hour should be fixed, usually 10 or 9 p.m., after which no servant should
be allowed to stay out. To permit breaches of this rule, without having
good and explicit reasons furnished, is very far from being a kindness
to the servant concerned. The moral responsibility for evil that may
result rests largely on the employer who permits late hours. Especial
care is needed with young girls. They should be given opportunities
for welcoming respectable friends at their employer’s house, and not be
forced by absence of such provision for their comfort to spend their spare
time out of doors, often in driving rain, possibly in bad company.
Wages of Servants. — The following Table of the average yearly wages
paid to domestics, will serve to regulate the expenditure of an estab-
lishment. The amounts given will, of course, vary according to ex-
perience and locality, extent of duties, supply and demand. No Table
could possibly be given which would not be subject to alteration under
special circumstances, but taken as a general average these payments
will be appropriate and form as reliable a guide as could possibly be
given. In most establishments such men-servants as coachman, foot-
man, and page, are provided with livery by their employers. This
does not affect the question of wages.
Whilst writing on this subject, we would warn the young wife not to
let mistaken notions of economy make her lose, for the sake of saving a
trifle in wages, the services of a trusted and efficient domestic. The
difference in expense between good and bad servants in a house can
only be learned by experience. A really good servant can save her
i6
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
employers far more than her wages and keep amount to, a bad one
would be a poor bargain if she gave her services for nothing.
MEN SERVANTS.
House Steward
£60 to
£100
Groom of the Chambers
• ,,
£45 „
£55
Valet
. ,,
£35 ..
£50
Cook
• ,,
£100
Head Gardener (not in the house)
• j,
£70 to
£120
Under Gardener
£40 „
£45
Butler
• ,,
£90
Under Butler
• ,1
£35
£45
Footman
£18 „
£40
Under Footman
. ,,
£18
£34
Second Footman
• ,,
£18 ,
£34
Coachman
£40 „
£70
Coachman (not in the house) ....
£7 0 ,,
£90
Groom
£25 „
£35
Under Groom
£18 ..
£25
Page
£12 „
£18
Stable Boy
£6 „
£12
Servants’ Hall Boy
£6 „
£12
Steward’s Boy
£8 „
£15
Head Gamekeeper
• „
£100 ,,
£150
Under Gamekeeper
•
£50 .»
£70
WOMEN SERVANTS.
Everything found, or an allowance
for the same.
Housekeeper
From £30 to £60
Lady’s Maid
„ £25 » £40
Cook
» £20 „ £60
Kitchen Maid
„ £16 „ £28
Scullery Maid
„ £14 „ £18
Still-room Maid
,, £18 ,, £28
Head Nurse
.. £25 £35
Under Nurse
„ £12 „ £18
Head Laundry Maid
.. £22 „ £30
Under Laundry Maid
„ £12 „ £20
Parlour Maid
.. £20 „ £35
Head Housemaid
„ £20 „ £28
Linder Housemaid
„ £14 „ £18
General Servant
„ £12 „ £28
These are the wages that prevail in or near the Metropolis. The wages
of under servants vary considerably according to locality ; and they
are often much lower in large establishments where young servants
receive a good training than in middle-class households.
Number of Servants suited to different incomes. — The following
is a rough scale of servants suited to various incomes. It is, how-
ever, impossible to give any general rule in these matters. Whether
in a household of moderate means such as our scales deal with,
a man-servant is required, will depend upon whether the house
is situated in town or country, and if the possession of horses or a
BREAKFAST TABLE
THE MISTRESS
1 7
garden renders his services imperative. One should not forget .hat
when heavy expenses such as those of education have to be incurred
for a family, this outlay must be carefully allowed for, before
committing oneself in other directions. Similarly, where two servants
are kept, and a nurse is required for young children, it will probably
be deemed wise to dispense with the services of the housemaid, and
arrange for the nurse to give some help to the cook.
When one is considering if an extra servant is necessary or not, it
is well to remember that assistance may sometimes be profitably
arranged by engaging a lad for two or three hours a day to do such
rough work as cleaning boots and shoes, working in the garden, etc. ;
and, when uncertain whether to engage a gardener, one should not
forget that a man not coming more than four days a week does not
render an employer liable to the duly on man servants.
About ^1,000 a year. Cook, housemaid, and perhaps a man-servant.
From £7 SO to ^500 a year. Cook, housemaid.
About £300 a year. General servant.
About £200 a year. Young girl for rough work.
Daily Duties. — Having thus indicated the general duties of a mistress
in the moral government of her household, we will now give a few
instructions on practical details. To do this more clearly, we will
begin with the earliest duties, and set forth the occupations of the
day.
Before Breakfast. — Having risen early and attended to the toilet, see
that the children receive proper care, and are clean and com-
fortable. The first meal of the day, breakfast, will then be served, at
which all the family should be punctually present, unless illness, or
other circumstances, prevent. After breakfast is over, the mistress
should make a round of the kitchen and other offices, to see that all is
in order, and that the early morning’s work has been properly per-
formed by the various domestics. The orders for the day should then
be given ; and any questions which the domestics may ask should be
answered, and any articles they require given out. Where a house-
keeper is engaged, she will of course perform the above-named duties.
Prompt notice should be taken of the first appearance of slack-
ness, neglect, or any faults in domestic work, so that the servant may
know that her mistress is quick to detect the least disorder, and will
not pass unsatisfactory work. Small faults allowed to pass unreproved
quickly increase. A failing easily cured if promptly dealt with, is
almost hopeless when it has been allowed to develop into a habit.
After this General Superintendence of her servants, the mistress will
probably have a certain number of letters to write, possibly some market-
ing or shopping to do, besides numberless small duties which are better
done early in the day, such as arranging the flowers for drawing-room
and dinner-table, etc. If she be the mother of a young family
there may be some instruction to give them, or some of their wardrobes
i8
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
to inspect, and needlework to be done. Time should also be allotted
for reading and harmless recreation.
If a lady does much plain needlework a sewing-machine is indis-
pensable. With its help she can make and mend many articles used
by her children and herself, and this without undue fatigue. The
assistance of such an appliance is invaluable in every home, especially
to a mother of daughters. Hand-sewing is slow and laborious, and
unless provided with a sewing-machine, there is little inducement
for any one to practise home-dressmaking. Apart from the valu-
able experience gained in cutting-out, fitting, altering and re-making,
a great saving may be effected.
Luncheon. — In establishments where an early dinner is served,
that meal will, of course, take the place of the luncheon. In many
houses, where a nursery dinner is provided for the children about one
o’clock, the elder members of the family usually make their luncheon
at the same time. If circumstances are not strongly against the
arrangement, the children of the house should take their dinner with
their mother. It is far better for children to have their principal meal in
the company of their mother and other members of the family, as soon
as they are able to feed themselves properly. Many little vulgar habits
and faults of speech and manner are avoided by this companionship.
The mother can thus better watch over her children’s health, and
see that their food is properly cooked, served, and suited to
them. Children who are accustomed to the society of their seniors at
their meals will not be awkward or shy with visitors, or when they
are staying from home. The nurse, likewise, by this plan is released,
for a short period, from the care of her little charges, and, while she
enjoys her dinner with her fellow-servants, “waiting on the nurse,”
a great objection with many housemaids, is avoided.
Visiting. — After luncheon, morning calls and visits may be made
and received. These may be divided under three heads ; those of
ceremony, friendship, and congratulation or condolence. Visits of
ceremony or courtesy, which occasionally merge into those of friendship,
are to be paid under various circumstances. Thus, they are uniformly
required after dining at a friend's house, or after a ball, picnic, or any
other party. These visits should be short, a stay of from fifteen to
twenty minutes being quite sufficient.
When other visitors are announced, it is well to leave as soon as
possible, taking care not to give the impression that your departure
has been hastened by the arrival of the new guest. When they are
quietly seated, and the bustle of their entrance is over, rise from your
chair, taking a kind leave of the hostess, and bowing politely to the
guests. Should you call at an inconvenient time, not having ascer-
tained the luncheon hour, or from any other inadvertence, retire as
soon as possible without, however, showing that you feel yourself an
intruder. It is not difficult to make suitable excuses on such an
THE MISTRESS
19
occasion, and a promise can be made to call again, if the lady you
have called on appear really sorry that circumstances have caused you
to shorten your visit.
Visits of Friendship need not be so formal as those of ceremony.
It is, however, advisable to call at suitable times, and to avoid staying
too long if your friend is engaged. Courtesy and consideration for
others are safe rules in these every-day matters. During visits manners
should be easy and unstrained, and conversation natural and unforced.
It is not advisable to take pet dogs into another lady’s house, for
there are people who have an absolute dislike to animals ; besides this,
there is always a chance of the animal breaking something, to the annoy-
ance of the hostess. Except in the case of close friends or special in-
vitation, little children should not accompany a lady in making morning
calls. Where a lady, however, pays her visits in a carriage, the children
can be taken, remaining in the carriage when the caller enters her
friend's house.
It has now become general for the mistress of a house to set aside one
day in every week, fortnight or month, as the case may be, on which
she is at home to receive callers. Wherever this is known to be the
case, casual visitors should make it a rule to call on that day. It is
hardly necessary to add that a lady should always be prepared for
guests on “ at home ” days. If any circumstance obliges her to be
from home on such a day, she must carefully inform all her acquain-
tances in good time, that they may be spared a fruitless journey.
When a lady has fixed her “At Home” day and cards have been
issued as, for example, “ Mrs. A — • At Home on Wednesdays from 4
to 7,” afternoon tea should be provided by the hostess, fresh
supplies of it, with thin bread-and-butter, fancy sandwiches, sweets,
cakes, etc., being forthcoming as fresh guests arrive.
Morning Calls demand good but neat attire ; a costume much more
elaborate than that which you generally wear will be out of place.
As a general rule, it may be said, both in reference to this and all other
occasions, it is better to be under than overdressed.
A strict account should be kept of ceremonial visits, and notice be
taken how soon your visits have been returned. An opinion may thus
be formed as to whether your frequent visits are, or are not, desirable.
There are, naturally, instances in which the circumstances of old age
or ill-health will preclude any return of a call ; but when this is the
case, it must not interrupt the discharge of the duty by those who
have no such excuses to make.
In all visits, if your acquaintance or friend be not at home, a card
should be left. If you are in a carriage, the servant will answer your
inquiry and receive your card without waiting for you to alight ; if
paying your visits on foot, give your card to the servant who answers
the door. The form of words, “ Not at home,” may be understood
m different senses ; but the only courteous way is to receive them as
20
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
being perfectly true. You may imagine that the lady of the house is
really at home, and that she woidd make an exception in your favour,
or you may think that your call is not desired ; but, in either case, not
the slightest word is to escape you which would suggest, on your part,
such an impression.
Visits of Condolence should be paid within a week after the event which
occasions them. If the acquaintance, however, is but slight, they
should not be made until immediately after the family has appeared
in public. A lady should send in her card, and, if her friends be able
to receive her, the visitor’s manner and conversation should be
subdued, and in harmony with the character of her visit. Visitors
paying visits of condolence should be dressed in black, or at any rate
very quietly. Sympathy with the affliction of the family is thus
expressed.
Receiving Morning Calls. — The foregoing description of the etiquette
to be observed in paying them will apply to the receiving of calls. It
is to be added, however, that, generally speaking, all occupations
should be suspended on the entrance of morning visitors. If a lady,
however, be engaged with light needlework, she may continue it quietly
during conversation, particularly if the visit be protracted.
Formerly the custom was to accompany all departing visitors to the
door of the house, and there take leave of them ; but modern
society, which dispenses with a great deal of this kind of ceremony, now
merely requires that the lady of the house should rise from her seat,
shake hands, or bow, and ring the bell to summon the servant to attend
them and open the door. In making a first call, either upon a newly-
married couple or on persons newly arrived in the neighbourhood, a
lady should leave her husband’s card, together with her own, at the
same time stating that the profession or business in which he is
engaged has prevented him from having the pleasure of paying the
visit with her. It is a custom with many ladies, when on the eve of
an absence from their neighbourhood to leave or send their own and
husband’s cards, with the letters P. P. C. in the right-hand corner.
These letters are the initials of the French words Pour prendre conge,
meaning “ To take leave.”
Visiting Cards and Invitations. — The fashion of visiting cards used
to vary much, some being made extremely thin, but those of medium
thickness are now usually preferred. When calling at a house, it
used to be customary to turn up the lower right-hand corner of the
card, to denote that a personal call had been made, but this is not
general any longer. Tennis and croquet invitations are issued with
the word at the bottom right-hand corner. For Soirees, ‘‘ At Homes,”
Conversaziones, Dinners and Balls, invitation cards are used ; but
for Weddings the invitations are issued upon notepaper. Gilt edges
and gilt decorations are not often used nowadays, nor is the mono-
gram, or crest, or both frequently embossed at the head of the paper.
THE MISTRESS
21
It is customary at many houses during summer to give tennis or
croquet teas. The meal is very informal, and often served out of
doors. Iced tea, coffee, claret-cup, etc., are served, with sandwiches,
pastry, cakes and other light viands. The tables are set under
shady trees, and a couple of servant 3 or members of the family are in
attendance at them, the visitors themselves going to the table for what
they may want. The following is a form for wedding invitations : —
Mr. and Mrs. A — - — request the
pleasure of Mr. and Mrs. B 's
company on the occasion of the marriage
of their daughter Alice with Frederick
S .
Ceremony on Wednesday , 14 June, at
Church, at — o'clock, and afterwards
at .
R.S.V.P.
The morning calls having been paid or received, and their etiquette
properly attended to, the next great event of the day in most estab-
lishments is “ The Dinner ” ; and we will only make a few general
remarks on this important subject here, as in future pages the whole
“ Art of Dining ” will be thoroughly considered, with reference to its
economy, comfort and enjoyment.
Invitations for Dinner, — In giving these it is usual to give from a fort-
night’s to three weeks’ notice, and formal ones are sent on printed
cards, such as the following —
request the pleasure of '
company at dinner
on the at o’clock.
Howard House,
Kensington, W. R.S.V.P.
22
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
In accepting an invitation the form of words used is—
have much pleasure in accepting
kind invitation for
while in declining one it is usual to say —
regret they are unavoidably prevented
[or that a previous engagement prevents
them] from accepting
kind invitation for
Before the Binner.-WA dinner-party, in an establishment where such
an event is of rare occurrence, is apt to cause great anxiety to the in-
experienced hostess, particularly when she cannot place full reliance
in the training and capabilities of her servants. But, whatever her
fears of disaster may be, she must meet her guests with a bright and
cheery welcome.
In giving any entertainment of this kind, the hostess should endeavour
to make the guests enjoy the time spent under her roof, and the guests
themselves should remember that they have come with the object of
mutual entertainment. An opportunity is thus given to all for innocent
pleasure and intellectual intercourse, in the course of which pleasant
and valuable friendships may be formed and information acquired
that may prove useful through life. Many celebrated men and women
have been great talkers ; and one may recall the genial Sir Walter
Scott, who would speak freely to any one, and was wont to say that
he never did so without learning something.
With respect to the number of guests, it has often been said, that a
private dinner-party should consist of not less than the number of the
Graces, or more than that of the Muses. A party of ten or twelve is.
THE MISTRESS
23
perhaps, as a general rule, sufficient for enjoyment. Gloves are worn
by ladies at dinner-parties, but should be taken off before the actual
meal begins.
Going to Dinner. — Dinner having been announced, the host offers his
arm to, and places on his right hand at the dinner-table, the lady to
whom he desires to pay most respect, either on account of her age,
position, or because she is the greatest stranger in the party. If this
lady be married and her husband present, the latter takes the hostess
— who always enters the dining-room last — to her place at table, and
seats himself at her right hand. The rest of the company follow the
host in couples, as specified by the master or mistress of the house, the
whole party being arranged according to their rank and other circum-
stances which may be known to the host and hostess.
Guest Cards. — It will be found of great assistance to the placing of a
party at the dinner-table, to have the names of the guests neatly
written on small cards called “ Guest cards ’’and placed at that part of
the table where it is desired the several guests should sit. It is a
matter of taste what cards should be used for this purpose ; small plain
ones are perfectly admissible, but those with gold, silver or coloured
borders are more effective and show more distinctly, laid as they are
upon either white table cloths or serviettes. Some with floral orna-
mentation are frequently used. Sometimes the menu card is a
double one, which folds like a ball programme, and upon the outside
of this the guest’s name is written.
The Dinner d la Russe, introduced into England about the middle
of the nineteenth century, has now largely taken the place of the old
custom of having all the dishes served from the table. The service
of dinner is fully dealt with in subsequent pages.
Dessert. — When dinner is finished, the dessert is placed on the table,
accompanied by finger-glasses, in which the tips of the fingers are
dipped after the fruit or sweetmeats of this course have been taken.
Leaving the Dinner Table. — When fruit has been taken, and a glass or
two of wine passed round, the time will have arrived when the hostess,
after catching the eye of the lady first in precedence, rises, and gives her
guests the signal to retire to the drawing-room. The gentlemen will
rise at the same time, and the one nearest the door open it for the ladies,
all courteously standing until the last lady has withdrawn.
In former times, when the bottle circulated freely amongst the guests,
the ladies retired earlier than they do at present. Thanks, however,
to the changes time has wrought, strict moderation is now invariable
amongst gentlemen, and they now take but a brief interval for tobacco,
talk, and coffee, before they rejoin the ladies.
After-dinner Invitations, by which we mean invitations for the evening,
may be given. The time of arrival of these visitors will vary according
to their engagements, or sometimes will be varied in obedience to the
caprices of fashion. Guests invited for the evening are, however, gener-
24
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
ally considered at liberty to arrive whenever it will best suit themselves
— usually between nine and twelve, unless earlier hours are specifically
named. By this arrangement, those who have numerous engagements
to fulfil, can contrive to make their appearance at two or three parties
in the course of one evening.
Ball or Evening Party Etiquette. — The etiquette of the dinner-party
table being disposed of, let us now enter into that of an evening
party or ball. The invitations for these are usually on “ At Home ”
cards, filled in with the name and address of the sender and the date
of the invitation, with the word “ Dancing ” or “ Music,” as the case
may be, in one corner. They should be sent out about three weeks
before the day fixed for the event, and should be replied to within a
week of their receipt. By attention to these courtesies, the guests
will have time to consider their engagements, and prepare their dresses,
and the hostess will learn in good time the number of guests likely to
be present.
Short or verbal invitations, except to relatives or close friends, are
not, formally speaking, correct, but, of course, very much depends on
the circumstances under which the invitation is given. Social forms,
while never allowed to become a fetish, should not be altogether neg-
lected even among close friends and relatives, for unintentional
neglect of a customary formality may be misunderstood and strain
a valued friendship.
Arrival of Guests. — Visitors on arrival should be shown to a room
exclusively provided for their reception ; and in that set apart for the
ladies, attendants should be in waiting to assist those ladies who may
require help. It will be found convenient, where the number of guests
is large, to provide numbered tickets, so that they can be attached to
the cloaks and wraps of each visitor ; a duplicate of the ticket should
be handed to the guest. Tea and coffee is provided in an ante-room,
for those who would like to partake of it.
Introductions. — The lady of the house usually stands at the door of
the drawing-room to receive her guests. She may introduce some of
them to others, where she may imagine mutual acquaintance will be
suitable and agreeable. It is very often the practice of the master of
the house to introduce one gentleman to another, but occasionally the
lady performs this office.
The custom of non-introduction is very much in vogue in many houses,
and guests are thus left to discover for themselves the position and
qualities of the people around them. The servant, indeed, calls out
the names of all the visitors as they arrive, but, in many instances, mis-
pronounces them ; so that it will not be well to follow this information,
as if it were an unerring guide. But the gentleman is, of course,
introduced by either host or hostess to the lady whom he is to take in
to dinner.
Refreshments. — A separate room or buffet should be set apart for
THE MISTRESS
25
refreshments. A supper is also often provided at private parties ; and
this requires, on the part of the hostess, a great deal of attention and
supervision. It usually takes place between the first and second
parts of the dances arranged. Programmes of these dances are
printed in various forms, and have pencils attached. The monogram
of the hostess, or the name of the house, with the date of the party,
frequently heads these programmes.
At Private Parties, a lady should not refuse the invitation of a gentle-
man to dance, unless she be previously engaged. The hostess must be
supposed to have asked to her house only those persons whom she knows
to be of good character, as well as fairly equal position ; hence to decline
the offer of any gentleman present would be a tacit reflection on the
master and mistress of the house. It may be mentioned here that an
introduction at balls or evening parties does not necessarily involve a
subsequent acquaintanceship, no introduction, at these times, giving a
gentleman a right afterwards to address a lady. She is consequently
free next morning to pass her partner at a ball of the previous evening
without the slightest recognition, if she prefers to do so.
Dancing. — The ball is generally opened by the lady of the house.
Whilst the host will usually lead off the dance with the lady highest in
rank of those present or the greatest stranger, it will be well for the
hostess, even if she is an ardent and accomplished dancer, not to indulge
in the art to an unlimited extent, as the duties of entertaining make
considerable demands on her attention and time. A few dances will
suffice to show that she shares in the pleasures of the evening.
The hostess and host, during the progress of a ball, will chat with
their friends, and take care the ladies are furnished with seats, and that
those who wish to dance are provided with partners. A gentle hint
from the hostess that a lady lacks a partner during several dances, is
certain not to be neglected by any gentleman. In this way the com-
fort and enjoyment of the guests can be promoted, and no lady will
experience the sensation of being a wallflower throughout the evening.
Beside her other cares, the mistress has frequently the added duties of
a chaperon either of her own or some friend’s daughters. Without
making vexatious regulations, or preventing the enjoyment of her
charges, she must be able to ensure their doing nothing that is either
outre or in bad form. At a ball she will take special care that her
charges always know where to find her, though no reasonable chaperon
will expect a girl to be always with her.
Departure.— When any of the carriages are announced, or the time for
the departure of the guests arrives, they should bid farewell to the
hostess, without attracting the attention of the other guests to their
departure. If this cannot be done without creating too much bustle,
it will be better for the visitors to retire quietly without taking their
leave. Within a week of the entertainment, the hostess should receive
from every guest a call, where possible, or cards expressing the gratifica-
26
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
tion experienced from her entertainment. To neglect such an obvious
duty is an offence against all social rules
Having shortly treated different forms of social gatherings, we now
return to the ordinary routine of the household, though all the details
we have given of dinner parties, balls, etc., belong to the department
of the mistress. Without a knowledge of the etiquette to be observed
on these occasions, a mistress would be unable to enjoy and appreciate
those friendly meetings which, giving a pleasant change, make the
quiet, happy life of an English gentlewoman the more enjoyable. In
their proper places, all that is necessary to be known respecting the
dishes and appearance of the breakfast, dinner, tea, and supper tables
will be set forth in this work.
Home Gatherings are more frequent and more important than social
entertainments. Both, however, have to be studied with a view to
efficiency, enjoyment and economy. These points will be dealt with
in the pages on “ Cookery.” Here we will only say, that for both mis-
tress and servants, it will be found wise to cook and serve the dinner,
and to lay the tablecloth and the sideboard, with the same cleanliness,
neatness and scrupulous exactitude, whether it be for the family, or for
“ company.” If this be strictly adhered to, the details of work will
become as second nature to all energies, and the trifling extra trouble
entailed is amply repaid by the increased efficiency of servants, the
feeling that one is always prepared for any chance callers, and the moral
stimulus that is given by having all things done decently and in order.
Evenings at Home should form a pleasant, improving and restful
portion of the daily round. Few hours of the day present more oppor-
tunities for forming and strengthening good habits and tendencies
among the young. In many homes this is the only time when the busy
father has the opportunity, and the mother the leisure, to share in the
pursuits and pastimes of their children. If children do not find pleasure
at home they will seek it elsewhere, often in undesirable directions.
Hence it should form part of the settled domestic policy of every parent
to make children feel that home is one of the happiest places in the
world, thus cultivating in them an attachment to home interests that
may prove an invaluable safeguard in the crucial years of their youth.
With this object in view all innocent games and pastimes should be
encouraged ; the young collector, naturalist, carpenter or engineer
should be helped in his interesting and instructive hobbies. Games
of skill, like chess and draughts, which have an educational value,
should be introduced and opportunity given for cricket, cycling, walk-
ing, hockey and healthy sport, whilst children who show any talent for
music, drawing, modelling, composition, etc., should know that a
keen interest is taken in their pursuits.
Fancy needlework often forms a portion of the evening’s recreation
for the ladies of the household, and this may be made more pleasant
by reading aloud some standard work, whether of instruction, humour.
THE MISTRESS
2 7
or romance, and there is no greater safeguard against those low-class
and pernicious publications, which, alas ! abound, than an early
acquaintance with the real masterpieces of literature.
Retiring for the Night. — It is well to remember that early rising is almost
impossible if retiring to rest at a late hour is the practice of the
household. The younger members of a family should go early and at
regular hours to their beds, and the domestics as soon as possible after
a reasonably appointed hour. Either the master or the mistress of a
house should, after all have gone to their separate rooms, see that all is
right with respect to lights and fires below ; and no servants should on
any account be allowed to remain up after the heads of the house have
retired.
Having thus dealt with daily routine from rising at morning to
retiring at night, there remain only now to be considered a few
matters, respecting which the mistress of the house may be glad to
receive information.
When taking a House in a new locality, it will be etiquette for the
mistress to wait until the older inhabitants of the neighbourhood call
upon her, thus evincing a desire, on their part, to become acquainted
with the new-comer. It may be, that the mistress will desire an inti-
mate acquaintance with but few of her neighbours ; but it is to be
specially borne in mind that all visits, whether of ceremony, friendship,
or condolence, should be punctiliously returned, though some time
may be allowed to elapse in the case of undesirable acquaintance.
Letters of Introduction. — You may perhaps have been favoured with
letters of introduction from some of your friends, to persons living
in the neighbourhood to which you have just come. In this case,
enclose the letter of introduction in an envelope, with your card. Then,
if the person to whom it is addressed call in the course of a few days,
the visit should be returned by you within the week, if possible. It is
now more usual to write by the post and introduce a friend, instead of
leaving everything to be said by the letter that is given.
In the event of your being invited to dinner under the above cir-
cumstances, nothing but necessity should prevent you from accepting
the invitation. If, however, there is some distinct reason why you
cannot accept, let it be stated frankly and plainly. An opportunity
should, also, be taken to call in the course of a day or two. in order to
express your regret that untoward circumstances have made it im-
possible for you to be present.
In Giving a Letter of Introduction, it should always be handed to your
friend unsealed. Courtesy dictates this, as the person whom you are
introducing would, perhaps, wish to know in what manner he or she
was spoken of. Should you receive a letter from a friend, introducing
to you any person known to and esteemed by the writer, the letter
should be immediately acknowledged, and your willingness expressed
to do all in your power to carry out his or her wishes.
28
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Order and Punctuality are so important to the comfort and happiness
of the household that every mistress should fix stated hours for meals,
etc., which ought to be strictly observed by every member of the
family.
ORDER OF THE HOUSEHOLD
fHornmg Dri*urrs> 8-45 A-M-
‘ Forsake not the assembling of yourselves
together.”
MEALS.
Breakfast (Kitchen & Nursery)
8 a.m.
,, (Dining-Room)
. 8.30,,
Kitchen Dinner
12.30 p.m.
Luncheon ....
. 1.30,,
Kitchen and Nursery Tea .
• 5 „
Dinner .....
. 6.30 „
Kitchen Supper .
• 9 „
Post Arrives.
' A.M.
“ Kind words in which we feel the pressure of a
hand.”
Post Departs. 8.30A.M.&6 p.m.
“ A timely written letter is a rivet in the chain of
affection.”
Pleasures and Duties in due order linked.
filming Drngcrs, 10 p.m.
The specimen card of order of the household will guide the mistress
in drawing up a set of rules adapted to the special requirements of her
own home.
Furnishing a House is an anxious and onerous undertaking, involving
far more ramifications, details and difficulties than can be dealt with
here. A few useful elementary rules to be observed are as follows :
before purchasing a single article, the future abode should be carefully
inspected, and a careful plan made with exact measurements of the
height, length and breadth of every room and of all recesses contained
in them, for a few inches difference more or less will render quite impos-
sible or useless for your room a suite or article of furniture fancied by
you, or recommended by the plausible salesman, who has never seen
the house to be furnished. Then, still, before any purchases are made,
a list of the articles desired and necessary for the new house should be
made, re-made, altered and considered, priced and re-priced, estimated
and re-estimated. No trouble or care can be considered excessive in
this task, for to most people, furnishing from cellar to attic, as the phrase
THE MISTRESS
29
goes, is a task that comes to us but once in our existence, and some of
the articles selected may have to last for a lifetime. Should money be
limited, the sum that can be devoted to this purpose should be carefully
fixed, and if the amount is not found sufficient for all requirements, the
expenditure on all strictly necessary articles should be estimated and
allowed for, before letting the fancy stray after superfluities and luxuries.
This may seem a very obvious rule, but it is one often neglected. The
scarcity of vile dross that prevents us from ordering all we think we
need for our new establishment, may be a blessing in disguise, for many
of those quaint and interesting articles that lend so much individuality
and artistic charm to a dwelling can never be purchased in bulk, but
must be acquired by a combination of good luck, good taste and loving
search. The time required for an exciting hunt after articles of beauty,
quaint ugliness, or romantic interest, will not be grudged by many
young couples, for each treasure thus acquired tends to give fresh
interest in the beautifying of a home. These rules considered, rival
catalogues compared, and the advantages and drawbacks of old and
new furniture weighed, the prospective householder will be prepared
to face the allurements of Tottenham Court Road and elsewhere.
Every possible information about kitchen furniture and utensils, with
carefully compiled price lists, will be found in a later chapter. It is
now usual for the landlord to allow the incoming tenant to choose
the wall papers, and we would advise our readers not to mind taking
considerable trouble in this respect. It is well to think whether the rooms
require light or dark papers ; the furniture and carpets with which they
are to be associated should also be considered. In few things are loving
care and taste better repaid than in such careful choice, and we would
recommend our readers not to rest content with the sample books
furnished by their landlord, but to inspect the designs of the best
known and most artistic firms.
Choosing a House. — Many mistresses have experienced the horrors of
house-hunting, and it is well known that “ three removes are as good
(or bad, rather) as a fire.”
The choice of a house must depend on various circumstances with
different people, and to give any specific directions on this head
would be impossible and useless, yet it will be desirable to point out
some of the general features as to locality, soil, aspect, etc., which all
house-hunters should carefully consider.
Regarding the locality, we may say, speaking more particularly of
a town house, that it is important to the health and comfort of a family
that the neighbourhood of all factories producing unwholesome or
offensive emanations or odours should be strictly avoided. Neither is
it well to take a house in the immediate vicinity of a noisy trade, lest
it should prove a constant annoyance.
Before taking a house on lease, get a competent surveyor to inspect
the state of the building — drainage, walls, roof, gutters, etc. Do not
30
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
rely upon the statements of an agent, or any one interested in letting
the house. When circumstances permit, it is well to stay for some
time in the neighbourhood to ascertain if it suits your health and taste
before removing there.
Referring to soils : it is held as a rule, that a gravel soil is best, as the
rain drains through it very quickly, and it is consequently less damp
than clay, upon which water rests a far longer time. Sand, chalk, and
clay soils all possess their respective merits, but the latter should be
avoided by those subject to rheumatic affections.
The aspect of the house should be well considered, remembering that
the more sunlight comes into the house the healthier is the habitation.
A house with a south or south-west aspect is lighter, warmer, drier,
and consequently more healthy, than one facing the north or north-east.
Great advances have been made of late in sanitary knowledge, and
the first point to inspect in a house is its drainage, as it has been proved
in thousands of cases that bad or defective drainage is as certain to
destroy health as the taking of poison. This arises from its injurious
effect upon the atmosphere, which renders the air we breathe unwhole-
some and dangerous. Let us remember, then, that unless the drainage
of a house is perfect, the health of its inhabitants is sure to suffer ; and
they will be susceptible to diphtheria, typhoid and all kinds of fevers
and disease. A damp house also fosters rheumatism, ague, etc.
The importance of a good water supply can scarcely be over esti-
mated. No house, however suitable in other respects, should be taken
if this important source of health and comfort is in the slightest degree
scarce or impure. We cannot take too much care in seeing that it is
pure and good, as well as plentiful, knowing as we do its constant
influence on the health of a household.
Ventilation is another feature which must not be overlooked. To
ensure efficient ventilation both inlet and outlet openings must be
provided ; the former, as near the floor as possible, without producing
a draught ; the latter, close to the ceiling. The lower part of the
window may be used as an inlet for air when the room is not in use.
Iron gratings and perforated bricks fitted into the outer wall, and valves
opening into the chimney, can all serve as outlets for foul air.
Failing these, the upper sash of the window may be lowered ; but this
method of ventilation is apt to cause an unpleasant draught, whereas
the above-named devices admit and carry off air without any perceptible
change of temperature.
Before committing themselves to any agreement for a house, inex-
perienced readers are advised to consult our “ Legal Memoranda,” given
later on.
Rent. — Some authorities say one-tenth, others one-eighth, of the
total income should be spent in rent, but so many circumstances — such
as the size of the family, its position, and the locality in which it is
necessary to reside — affect this estimate, we are disposed to think it is
THE MISTRESS
3i
a question best left for careful consideration in each individual case.
When facing the problem of taking a new and larger house, one should
bear in mind that the mere increase in rent does not represent the whole
of the extra expense that will have to be borne, for besides rates, which
of course increase proportionately, a larger house seems invariably to
increase expenses all round. Yet it is not easy to give explicit reasons
for this undoubted tendency.
The Responsibilities or Duties of the mistress of a house are, though
onerous and important, by no means difficult if given careful and sys-
tematic attention. She ought always to remember that she rules the
household ; and by her conduct its whole internal policy is regulated.
She is, therefore, a person of far-reaching importance. Her daughters
model themselves on her pattern, and are directed by her counsels : —
“ Her children rise up and call her blessed ; her husband also, and he
praiseth her.” Therefore let each wife, remembering her responsibilities,
see that her conduct is such as to earn the love and reverence of her
children and her husband.
Let her remember the sincere homage paid to the good wife and
mother by the great philosophers and writers of all ages. Jeremy
Taylor says : “ A good wife is Heaven’s last best gift to man ;
his angel and minister of graces innumerable ; his gem of many
virtues ; his casket of jewels. Her voice is sweet music ; her smiles
his brightest day ; her kiss the guardian of his innocence ; her arms,
the pale of his safety ; the balm of his health, the balsam of his life ;
her industry, his surest wealth ; her economy, his safest steward ; her
lips, his faithful counsellors ; her bosom, the softest pillow of his
cares ; and her prayers, the ablest advocates of Heaven’s blessings on
his head.”
THE HOUSEKEEPER
CHAPTER II
Duties and Responsibilities.
As Second in Command in the House, except in large establishments,
where there is a house-steward, the housekeeper must consider herself
as the immediate representative of her mistress, and bring to her work
all the qualities of honesty, industry, and vigilance which would be
expected of he ' if she were at the head of her own family. Constantly
striving to promote the prosperity of the household, she should oversee
all that goes on in the house, that every department is thoroughly
attended to, and that the servants are comfortable, at the same time
that their various duties are properly performed.
Cleanliness, punctuality, and method are essentials in the charac-
ter of a good housekeeper. Without these qualities, no household can
be well managed. Order again, is indispensable ; by it we provide
that “ there should be a place for everything, and everything in its
place.”
Accounts. — A necessary qualification for a housekeeper is that she
should thoroughly understand accounts. She will have to write in her
books an accurate account of all sums paid for any and every purpose,
the current expenses of the house, tradesmen’s bills, wages, and many
miscellaneous items. As we have mentioned in the previous chapter,
a housekeeper’s accounts should be periodically examined and checked
by the head of the house. Nothing tends more to the satisfaction
of both employer and employed than this arrangement. “ Short
reckonings make long friends ” stands good in this case, as in others.
The housekeeper should make a careful record of every domestic
purchase whether bought for cash or not. This record will be found a
useful check upon the bills sent in by the various tradesmen, so that
any discrepancy can be inquired into and set right. An intelligent
housekeeper will by this means be able to judge of the average con-
sumption of each article in the household ; and to prevent waste and
carelessness.
The following table of expenses, income, or wages, shows what any
sum, from £i to £100 per annum, is, when reckoned per quarter,
calendar month, week, or day
THE HOUSEKEEPER 33
[Per
Year.
Per
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5
Cooking. — Although the housekeeper does not generally interfere much
in the actual work of the cook, yet it is necessary that she should
possess a good knowledge of cookery ; for she has to direct the work
of others. In some establishments cakes, bread, jams, pickles, etc., are
made in the still-room under the housekeeper’s superintendence.
Instruction in Cookery. — Happily it is now usual for all young people to
learn something of this art, and it is a valuable accomplishment, no
matter to what class they belong, for at some time of their life it is
sure to be of use. A great many, too, who do not actually have
to cook themselves are glad to have the power of checking the work of
their cooks, who without such a check would become domestic tyrants.
With servants of this sort a mistress who knows nothing of cooking is
powerless. Before the existence of cookery schools instruction
could only be obtained at home, from the mother, housekeeper or
cook, but now many who desire instruction prefer to avail them-
selves of the many opportunities offered by the cookery schools
and classes. This course has advantages to recommend it ; for that
a practical teacher, while allowing the pupil considerable freedom
of choice, takes care that the lessons comprise dishes which teach
the principles of cookery, as well as mere manipulation of the
materials. A good teacher also endeavours to inculcate habits of
economy, cleanliness, and tidiness besides the mere details of the
science ; but if the cook were to teach on the same lines her motive
might be misunderstood, and her advice resented. If the pupils would
always practise in their own homes the tidiness and cleanliness they are
taught in the schools, they would be less frequently regarded as a
nuisance by the cook. Novices should make a rule not to use unneces-
sary utensils, to wait on oneself as much as possible, and to clear away
all materials and utensils when they have finished.
c
34
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
The Daily Duties of a Housekeeper are regulated, in a great measure, by
the size of the establishment she superintends. She should rise early,
and see her assistants are duly performing their work, and that the pre-
parations for breakfast are progressing satisfactorily. After breakfast,
which, in large establishments, she will take in the “ housekeeper’s
room,” with the lady’s-maid, butler, and valet, served by one of the
under-maids, she will, on days set apart for such purposes, carefully
examine the household linen, with a view to its being repaired, or
further necessary supplies being procured ; she will also see that the
furniture throughout the house is well rubbed and polished ; and attend
to all the necessary details of marketing and ordering goods from the
tradesmen.
The Housekeeper’s Room is generally made use of by the lady’s-maid,
butler and valet, who take there their breakfast, tea and supper. The
lady’s-maid will also use this apartment as a sitting-room, when not
engaged with duties which would call her elsewhere. In different estab-
lishments, according to their size, means and expenditure of the family,
different rules, of course, prevail. For instance, in mansions where great
state is maintained, and there is a house-steward, two distinct tables
are kept, one in the steward’s room for the principal members of the
staff, the second in the servants’ hall for the other domestics. At the
steward’s dinner-table, the steward and housekeeper preside ; and here,
also, may be included the lady’s-maid, butler, valet.
After Dinner, the housekeeper, having seen that her assistants have
returned to their various duties, and that the household is in proper
working order, will have many important matters claiming her atten-
tion. She will, possibly, have to give the finishing touch to some
article of confectionery, or be occupied with some of the more elaborate
processes of the still-room. There may also be the dessert to arrange,
ice-creams to make ; and many employments that call for no ordinary
degree of care, taste and attention.
The Still-room was formerly much more common than at present, for
in days of “ auld lang syne ” the still was in constant requisition for
the supply of home-made wines, spirits, cordials and syrups, home-made
medicines, scents, and other aromatic substances for the toilet, and sweet-
flavoured waters for the purposes of cookery. There are some estab-
lishments, however, in which distillation is still carried on, and in these
the still-room maid has her old duties to perform. In a general way,
however, this domestic is immediately concerned with the housekeeper.
For the latter she lights the fire, dusts her room, prepares the breakfast
table, and waits at the different meals taken in the housekeeper’s room.
A still-room maid may learn a very great deal of useful knowledge
from her intimate connexion with the housekeeper, and if she be
active and intelligent, mav soon fit herself for a better position in
the household.
Evening Occupation. — In the evening, the housekeeper will often busy
THE HOUSEKEEPER
35
herself with the necessary preparations for the next day’s duties.
Numberless small, but still important, arrangements will have to be
made, so that everything may move smoothly. At times, perhaps,
attention will have to be paid to the preparation of lump-sugar, spices,
candied peel, the stoning of raisins, the washing, cleansing, and drying
of currants, etc. The evening, too, is the best time for attending to
household and cash accounts, and making memoranda of any articles
she may require for her store-room or other departments.
Periodically, at some convenient time — for instance, quarterly or
half-yearly — it is a good plan for the housekeeper to make an inventory
of everything she has under her care, and compare this with the lists
of a former period ; she will then be able to furnish a statement, if
necessary, of the articles which, from wear, breakage, loss, or other
causes, it has been necessary to replace or replenish.
Responsibilities. — In concluding these remarks on the duties of the
housekeeper, we will briefly refer to the very great responsibility which
attaches to her position. Like “ Caesar’s wife,” she should be “ above
suspicion,” and her honesty and sobriety unquestionable ; for there are
many temptations to which she is exposed. From a physical point of
view, a housekeeper should be healthy and strong, and be particularly
clean in her person, and her hands, though they may show a slight
degree of roughness, from the nature of some of her employments, still
should have a nice appearance. In her dealings with the various
tradesmen, and her behaviour to the domestics under her, the
demeanour and conduct of the housekeeper should never diminish her
authority or influence.
Seasons for different kinds of work. -It will be useful for the mistress
and housekeeper to know the best seasons for various occupations
connected with Household Management ; and we, accordingly, subjoin
a few hints which we think will prove valuable.
In the winter months, some of the servants have much more to do, in
consequence of the necessity there is to attend to the necessary fires.
In the summer, and when the absence of fires gives the domestics
more leisure, a little extra work can be easily performed.
Spring is the usual period set apart for house-cleaning, and removing
all the dust and dirt which, notwithstanding all precautions, will
accumulate during the winter months, from dust, smoke, gas, etc.
This season is also well adapted for washing and bleaching linen, etc.,
as the weather not being then too hot for the exertions necessary in
washing counterpanes, blankets, and heavy substances, the work is
better and more easily done than in the greater heats of July. Winter
curtains should be taken down, and replaced by the summer white ones ;
and furs and winter clothes also carefully laid by. The former should
be well shaken and brushed, and then pinned upon paper or linen, with
camphor to preserve them from moths. Spring cleaning must inc'ude
the turning out of all the nooks and corners of drawers, cupboards,
36
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
lumber-rooms, etc., with a view to getting rid of unnecessary articles,
which left there create dirt and harbour mice and other vermin,
though only useless encumbrances left where they are, they may be of
great value to one’s poorer neighbours. Sweeping chimneys, taking up
and cleaning carpets, painting and whitewashing the kitchen and
offices, papering rooms, when needed, and, generally speaking, giving
the house, a bright and new appearance, for the approaching summer,
are among the cares of this season. Oranges should now be preserved,
and wine made.
Summer will be found the best period for examining and repairing
household linen, and for “ putting to rights ” all those articles which
have received a large share of wear and tear during the winter. The
old proverb. “ A stitch in time saves nine,” applies very strongly to the
care of such linen articles as table cloths, serviettes, sheets, pillow-slips,
etc., a little early and careful attention to which will often prolong their
period of usefulness. In June and July, currants, raspberries, straw-
berries, gooseberries, and other summer fruits should be preserved, and
jams and jellies made. Eggs are cheap and plentiful at this season of
the year, and the housekeeper should preserve, by one of the several
satisfactory methods, a good supply for the winter months, when eggs,
though more in demand than ever, are scarce and dear. Many house-
holds also find it economical to purchase in June a supply of salt butter
in kegs for winter use. In July, too, the making of walnut ketchup
should be attended to, as the green walnuts will be approaching per-
fection for this purpose. Many other pickles may also be made at this
season, full directions for which are given in our pages.
Autumn fruit of various kinds, as plums, damsons, blackberries,
cranberries and many others, should be bottled and preserved, and
jams and jellies made. Pickled mushrooms, mushroom and tomato
ketchup, pickled cabbage and beetroot, and many such stores should be
prepared at this season. The apples and pears for winter use should
now be gathered in and stored. These should be frequently looked
over, and any fruit showing symptoms of decay removed. Filberts,
cob nuts, and walnuts should also be preserved in sand and salt to pre-
vent them from drying up and decaying.
In September and October it will be necessary to prepare for the cold
weather, and get ready the winter clothing for the various members of
the family. The white summer curtains will now be carefully put away,
the fire-places, grates, and chimneys looked to, and the house put in a
thorough state of repair.
In December, the principal household duty lies in preparing for the
creature comforts of those near and dear to us, so as to meet Old Christ-
mas with a happy face, a contented mind, and a full larder. And in
stoning plums, washing currants, cutting peel, beating eggs, and
mixing a pudding, a housewife is not unworthily greeting the season of
good will.
THE KITCHEN.
THE COOK
CHAPTER III
General Advice to the Cook, with Observations on her
Duties, and those of the Kitchen and the Scullery Maids
Man may live without love — what is passion but pining ?
But where is the man who can live without dining?
We may live without friends, we may live without books,
But civilized men cannot live without cooks.
From “ Lucille ,” by Owen Meredith.
The cook and those who serve under her are so intimately associated
that they can hardly be treated of separately. The cook, however, is
queen of the kitchen ; and if she be clean, neat, orderly and quick in
her work, those who are under her will emulate these good qualities ;
upon her the whole responsibility of the kitchen rests, whilst the
duty of others is to render her ready and willing assistance.
In great establishments in the time of the Norman and Plantagenet
kings the cook was indeed a great personage, more than one fortu-
nate master of the art receiving a manor or title because he pleased the
palate of his sovereign with some dainty dish. In those days the head
cook gave orders from a high chair which commanded a view of all that
was going on. Each held a long wooden spoon, with which he tasted,
without leaving his seat, the dainties that were cooking on the stoves,
and the spoon was frequently used as a rod of punishment on the backs
of those who did not sufficiently study the virtues of diligence and
temperance.
Early Rising.— -If, as we have said, early rising is of the utmost im-
portance to the mistress, what must it be to the servant ! It is a
thousand times tested truth that without early rising and punctuality
good work is almost impossible. A cook ought to realize this important
fact, for if she lose an hour in the morning, she is likely to be kept toiling
all day to overtake necessary tasks that would otherwise have been
easy to her. Six o’clock is a good hour to rise in the summer, and
ssven in the winter.
The Cook’s First Duty should be to prepare the breakfast, full details
for the selection, cooking, and service of which will be found in a later
37
UNIVERSITY
LIBRARY
LEEHS
38
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
chapter, and then to busy herself with those numerous little tasks
associated with arranging and providing for the day. This will bring
her to the breakfast hour of eight, after which preparations must be
made for the other meals of the household.
Daily Duties. — In those households where cook and housemaid only
are kept, the general custom is that the cook shall look after the dining-
room. Other household work, varying in different households, is also
committed to her care. In establishments of this kind, the cook will,
after having lighted her kitchen fire, brushed the range, and cleaned the
hearth, proceed to prepare for breakfast. She will thoroughly rinse
the kettle, and set it to boil. She may then perhaps have to go to the
breakfast-room, and there make things ready for the breakfast. Atten-
tion must also be given to sweeping the hall, shaking the hall mats,
which she must afterwards put back in their places.
The cleaning of the kitchen, passages, and kitchen stairs must always
be over before breakfast, so that it may not interfere with the other
business of the day. Everything should be ready, and the whole
house should wear a comfortable aspect. Nothing is more pleasing to
the mistress of an establishment than to notice that, although she has
not been present to see the work done, proper attention has been paid
to such matters.
By the time that the cook has performed the duties mentioned above,
and well swept, brushed, and dusted her kitchen, the breakfast bell will
perhaps summon her to the parlour, to “ bring in ” breakfast. It is
often the cook’s department, in small establishments, to take in the
breakfast, as the housemaid, by this time, has gone upstairs into the
bedrooms, and has there applied herself to her various duties. But
many ladies prefer the breakfast brought in by the housemaid, though
it remain to be cleared and washed up by the cook. Whichever way
this part of the work is managed, each servant should have her duties
clearly laid down for her. The cook usually answers the bells and
single knocks at the door in the early part of the morning, as the
tradesmen, with whom it is her more special business to speak, call at
these hours.
The Preparation of Dinner is the most impoi'tant part of the cook’s work,
wherein she begins to feel the responsibility of her situation, as she has
to see to the dressing and serving of those dishes, which her skill and
ingenuity have prepared. Whilst these, however, are cooking, she
must be busy with her pastry, soups, gravies, entrees, etc. Stock,
or what the French call bouillon, being the basis of most made dishes,
must be always at hand, in conjunction with sweet herbs and spices
for seasoning. “A place for everything, and everything in its place,”
must be the rule, in order that time may not be wasted in looking
for things when they are wanted, and that the whole business of
cooking may move with the regularity and precision of a well-ad-
justed machine. All must go on simultaneously. The vegetables and
THE COOK
39
sauces must be ready with the dishes they are to accompany, and
the smallest oversight must be avoided in their preparation. It is a
good plan when a dinner of many courses has to be prepared,
to write out, and hang in a conspicuous place, two lists of the
day’s dishes, one of the order in which they must be served, with every
accessory complete, that nothing may be forgotten, and one of the order
in which each should be cooked, that nothing may be over or underdone.
When the dinner hour has arrived it is the duty of the cook to dish up
such dishes as may, without injury, stand for some time covered on the
hot plate or in the hot closet ; but such as are of a more important
or delicate kind must be delayed until the order “ to serve ” is given.
Then comes haste ; but there must be no hurry — all must work with
method. The cook takes charge of the fish, soups and poultry ; and the
kitchen-maid of the vegetables, sauces and gravies. These she puts into
proper dishes, while the scullery-maid waits on and assists the cook.
Every dish must be timed so as to prevent its getting cold, whilst great
care should be taken that no more time is lost between the courses than
is absolutely necessary, for good serving, hot plates, gravy and sauces that
have not been allowed to get cold and greasy, are vital factors in pro-
viding a good dinner. When the dinner has been served, the most
important item in the daily work of the cook is at an end. She must,
however, every night and morning, look to the contents of her larder,
taking care to keep everything sweet and clean, so that no disagreeable
smells may arise from the neglect of this precaution. These are the
principal duties of a cook in a big establishment. In many smaller
households the cook engages to perform the whole work of the kitchen,
and. in some places, a portion of the housework also.
Duties of the Kitchen-Maid. — Whilst the cook is engaged with her morn-
ing duties, the kitchen- or scullery-maid is also occupied with hers.
Her first duty, after the fire is lighted, is to sweep and clean the kitchen
and the various offices belonging to it. This she does every morning,
besides cleaning the stone steps at the entrance of the house, the halls,
the passages, and the stairs, if any, which lead to the kitchen. Her general
duties, besides these, are to wash and scour all these places twice a week,
with the table, shelves, and cupboards. She has also to attend to the
nursery and servants’ hall dinners while cooking, to prepare all fish,
poultry, and vegetables, trim meat joints and cutlets, and do all such
duties as may be assigned to her by the cook.
The duties of the kitchen- or scullery-maid, in short, are to assist the
cook in everything in which she may require aid ; to keep the scullery
and all kitchen utensils clean. The duties of a kitchen-maid and scul-
lery-maid are almost identical, and the only reason that exists for re-
taining the two names is that in large establishments, where two kitchen-
maids are kept, it is useful to distinguish them as kitchen- and scullery-
maid, the former doing the more important, and the latter the coarser,
work of the kitchen.
40
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
ADVICE TO COOKS AND KITCHEN-MAIDS
Importance of Cooking. — A good cook has every reason to magnify the
office she holds, for her work influences not only the comfort but also
the health of the whole household, and mindful of this responsibility
she will take care to study both the needs and tastes of those whose
food she prepares. With invalids and people in delicate health this
care is of the utmost importance.
Try and realize for yourself the importance of your post. Whether
your employers are working hard in professions or business, or leading
a comparatively leisured existence, whether they have poor appetites
or large ones, good cooking of their food is absolutely necessary to their
health.
Make a rule to send everything up to table really well cooked. Do
not regard this as an impossibility, for it can be done.
If you are told to prepare anything you are not certain about, have
the courage to say so and ask your mistress’s advice. How many
dishes and dinners have been spoilt because cooks have been too proud
to confess ignorance !
Accidents, of course, will happen (though but rarely with proper
precautions ) ; fires will not always burn, nor ovens bake as they should ;
but if the joint, or whatever it may be, cannot be done to time, do not
send it up raw, but ask for a little grace. If anything is really
spoilt (as even with care it sometimes is) confess the fact, and do not
send up a dish calculated to take away people’s appetites.
Cleanliness. — A dirty kitchen is a disgrace to all concerned. Good
cookery cannot exist without absolute cleanliness. It takes no longer
to keep a kitchen clean and orderly than untidy and dirty, for the time
that is spent in keeping it in good order is saved when culinary operations
are going on and everything is clean and in its place. Personal cleanli-
ness is most necessary, particularly with regard to the hands.
Dress. — When at your work, dress suitably ; wear short dresses,
well-fitting boots, and large aprons with bibs, of which every cook and
kitchen-maid should have a good supply, and you will be comfortable
as you never can be with long dresses, small aprons, and slipshod shoes,
the latter being most trying in a warm kitchen, which may very likely
have a stone floor. A maid-servant’s working dress, with its neat and
becoming cap, is far from ugly, and nothing is more suitable for them
whilst at their work.
Neatness should be studied by all engaged in domestic work. It will
repay those who practise it a thousand fold by constantly saving them
needless work.
Clear as you go ; do not allow a host of basins, spoons, plates, etc.,
to accumulate on the dresser or tables while you are preparing the
dinner. By a little management and forethought much confusion
may be saved in this way. It is as easy to put a thing in its place when
it is done with as to continually remove it to find room for fresh
THE COOK
4i
requisites. For instance, after making a pudding, the flour tub, paste-
board, and rolling pin should be put away, and any basins, spoons, etc.,
taken to the scullery, neatly packed up near the sink, to be washed when
the proper time arrives.
Economy. — Never waste or throw away anything that can be turned
to account. In warm weather any gravies or soups that have been left
from the preceding day should boiled up and poured into clean
pans. Full directions with regard to stock pots, digesters and other
economies of the kitchen will be found in a later chapter.
Go early every morning to your larder (which, like the kitchen, ought
to be kept perfectly clean and neat ), and while changing plates, looking
to your bread pan (which should always be emptied and wiped out
every morning), take notice if there is anything not likely to keep, and
acquaint your mistress with the fact. It is better if there is a spare
cupboard in the kitchen to keep any baked pastry there, and thus
preserve its crispness.
Kitchen Supplies. — Do not let your stock of pepper, salt, spices, season-
ings, herbs, etc., dwindle so low that there is danger of finding yourself
minus some very important ingredient, the lack of which may cause
much confusion and annoyance. Think of all you require when your
mistress sees you in the morning, that she may give out any necessary
stores. If you live in the country have your vegetables gathered from
the garden at an early hour, so that there is ample time to get rid of
caterpillars, etc., which is an easy task if the greens are allowed to soak
in salt and water an hour or two.
Punctuality. — This is an indispensable quality in a cook. When there
is a large dinner to prepare get all you can done the day before or early
on the morning of the day. This will save a great deal of time and
enable you, with good management, to send up your dinner in good
time and style.
Cleansing of Cooking Utensils. — This is one of the cook’s most important
duties, and one that should ’never be neglected or put off from one day
to another. When you have washed your saucepans, fish kettle, etc.,
stand them before the fire for a few minutes to get thoroughly dry inside
before putting away. They should then be put in a dry place in order
to escape rust. Put some water into them directly they are done with,
if they have to stand some time before they are washed. Soups or
gravies should never be allowed to stand all night in saucepans. Frying
pans should be cleaned (if black inside) with a crust of bread, and
washed with hot water and soda. It is a good plan to have a knife
kept especially for peeling onions, but where this is not done the one
used should be thoroughly cleaned. If the tin has worn off copper
utensils, have it immediately replaced. Clean your coppers with tur-
pentine and fine brick dust, or waste lemon skins and sand, rubbed
on with flannel, and polish them with a leather and a little dry brick
dust. Clean tins with soap and whiting, rubbing on with a soft rag or
42
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
flannel, wiping them with a dry cloth, and lastly with a soft dry cloth
or leather.
Washing of Dishes, Etc. — Do not be afraid of hot water in washing up
dishes and dirty cooking utensils ; as these are essentially greasy, luke-
warm water cannot possibly have the effect of cleansing them thoroughly,
and soda in the water is a great saving of time as is also a fresh supply
of hot water.
After washing the plates and dishes wash out your dish tubs with a
little soap, soda and water, and scrub them often : wash the dish cloth
also and wring it out, and after wiping out the tubs stand them to dry.
Pudding cloths and jelly bags should have immediate attention after
being used ; the former should be well washed, scalded, and hung up to
dry. Let them be perfectly aired before being put away. No soda
should be used in washing pudding cloths.
The Sink. — Do not throw anything but water down the sink, as the
pipe is liable to get choked, a state of things which causes both ex-
pense and annoyance. At least three times a week pour a pailful of
boiling soda water down every trap, for this prevents accumulation of
fat, which more often than anything else stops up sink pipes.
Try to realize how important this duty is ; bad smells (often caused
by a stoppage in the sink pipes) are most disagreeable and dangerous.
Whilst a cook should be versed in all the details of her position, a
mistress should never forget her own duty of seeing that the laws of
economy, cleanliness and order are not neglected by her servants. The
servants who reflect that some day they will probably need neatness,
cleanliness and economy in their own homes, and for their own benefit,
will feel grateful to the employer who insists on the practise of these
virtues.
*
.. -
ROYAL KITCHEN
The Kitchen, Windsor Castle.
THE KITCHEN
CHAPTER IV
The Arrangement, Economy and Furniture of the
Kitchen, Kitchen and Cooking Appliances, Utensils
and their Prices, Etc.
Writers on Domestic Economy, etc. — There are few of those who
have turned their attention to domestic economy and architec-
ture, who have written on these important subjects with better effect
than Sir Benjamin Thompson, an American chemist and physicist,
better known as “ Count Rumford,” a title of nobility bestowed upon
him by the King of Bavaria. He did not, however, go very deeply or
fully into the design and construction of that part of the dwelling-
house which is chiefly devoted to cookery purposes, when he declared
that “ the construction of a kitchen must always depend so much on
local circumstances that general rules can hardly be given respecting
it,” and again that “the principles on which this construction ought in
all cases to be made are simple and easy to be understood.” These
principles resolved themselves, in his estimation, into adequate room
and convenience for the cook.
Definition of the term Kitchen.— AThe Anglo-Saxon cicen, the Danish
Krokken, the German Kiiche, and the French Cuisine are all related
to the Latin word coquere — to cook. The word kitchen probably
dates from the end of the twelfth century, when the English language
began to take concrete form. Chaucer, who died in 1400, makes use
of the word in the “ Canterbury Tales,” the best example of the
English language of that day. Shakespeare (1564-1616) speaks of
the kitchen as a cook-room, clearly indicating its use in the sixteenth
century ; while Spenser (1552-1599) says the hostess
. . . “ led her guests anone
Unto the kitchen room, ne spared for niceness none.’*
Here is undoubtedly meant a room in which the meal was to be
served.
Requisites of a Good Kitchen. — That Count Rumford is perfectly right
43
44
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
in his general, though somewhat broad premises, no one will be disposed
to deny ; nevertheless, the requisites of a good kitchen demand some-
thing more special than is here pointed out. It must be remembered
that it is the great laboratory of every household, and that much of the
family “ weal or woe,” as far as regards bodily health, depends upon
the nature of the food prepared within its walls. In the con-
struction and disposition of a kitchen, therefore, the following con-
ditions should be secured.
(1) Convenience of distribution in its parts, with largeness of dimen-
sion.
(2) Excellence of light, height and ventilation.
(3) Easy of access, without passing through the house.
(4) Walls and location so arranged that the odours of cookery
cannot spread about the house.
(5) Plenty of fuel and water, which, with the scullery, pantry and
storeroom, should be so near the kitchen as to offer the smallest possible
trouble in reaching them.
In addition to these important points, the equipment of the kitchen
demands careful consideration. Under this term is comprised its
fittings, fixtures, furniture, and the utensils that should be found in
the kitchen itself and the adjacent back kitchen, or scullery, for
household and culinary uses. It will be convenient to consider the
first three items as forming one division of our subject, and the last
as another ; the portability of the various articles comprehended in
the second division forming the chief point of distinction between
them and those which find a place in the first.
THE FITTINGS, FIXTURES AND FURNITURE OF THE KITCHEN
Ths Fittings. — Under this title, let us glance briefly at the finish of
the several surfaces within which the cubic space of the apartment
itself is included : namely, the ceiling, the walls and the floor. There
is more wear and tear and more injury from causes that tend to soil
and disfigure in the kitchen than in any other part of the house, and
care should therefore be taken to guard against the former as much as
possible, and to render the effacement of the latter as easy and as
speedy as possible.
(1) The Ceiling. — The most suitable ceiling is a plain, smoothly-
plastered one, whether the kitchen is used solely for the purpose of
cooking or, as is the case with the working-classes, as a combined
kitchen and living room. It should be frequently whitewashed, for
apart from the cleanliness, which is always desirable, the whiter
the ceiling the greater will be its capacity to reflect light, and there-
fore to render the kitchen lighter.
(2) Ths Walls. — The walls of a kitchen used only for culinary pur-
poses should be lined with white glazed tiles, or else have a high-tiled
THE KITCHEN
45
dado. Tiled walls are more easily kept clean than distempered walls,
which show every mark. When distemper must be used, some light
shade should be selected, but not necessarily buff, although that colour
is generally preferred because walls and woodwork should agree in
colour, and buff is liked better than grey or green in a kitchen.
Certainly buff has many good qualities to recommend it ; it is clean-
looking, and in consequence of its colour nearly approaching that
of the wood it show signs of wear less quickly than other colours.
Those who work in kitchens of this description have the housekeeper's
room and the servants’ hall in which to sit when their w'ork is done.
An apartment of different appearance is necessary in smaller middle-
class households, where the maids have to spend their leisure time
in the kitchen, and also in the homes of the working-classes, where
the kitchen is the living-room of the family. For these, the most
appropriate and durable wall-coverings are varnished papers. Recent
years have introduced many new fashions in this direction, but nothing
that can be recommended in preference to the old-fashioned oak
papers with dull surfaces, specially prepared to receive the varnish
after being hung. The initial outlay is considerable, but a good,
well- varnished paper will last a very long time. Moreover, it
always looks bright, is easily kept clean, and its smooth surface pre-
vents any accumulation of dust, which is a great recommendation
from a health point of view. The woodwork should be painted, grained
and varnished to match the paper. The sanitary, so-called washable
papers are less expensive than varnished papers, but their glazed
surfaces will not stand repeated applications of soap and water ; they
may, however, be wiped over with a damp sponge or damp cloth.
(3) The Floor. — Floor-coverings are very rarely found in kitchens
devoted entirely to cookery. Oil-cloth and linoleum are the only
materials which can possibly be used, and they are generally unneces-
sary. The substance forming the floor varies according to the locality.
In the north of England large flags of smooth stone are cemented
together to form a floor that is nice to walk upon and easily kept clean.
In the Midlands the kitchen floor usually consists of unglazed red tiles,
which present a clean and bright appearance ; while on the east coast
the floors are frequently laid with red or yellow bricks. Wooden
floors and concrete floors may be seen in any part of the country,
particularly in large establishments where these details in construction
receive considerable attention. In middle-class households, where
it is desirable to combine utility and comfort, good linoleum will be
found the most serviceable and suitable floor-covering for the kitchen.
The patterned varieties are preferable to those with plain surfaces,
which quickly become disfigured by marks made by the furniture, etc.
Kitchen Fixtures. — The fixtures are the immovable articles attached
to the walls of the kitchen. They vary considerably, but in large
households where the kitchen is used simply for its legitimate purpose
46
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
of cookery, they usually comprise cupboards fitted with shelves in
which the cook keeps her stores and utensils ; strips of wood provided
with hooks for meat-covers, etc.; electric light or gas-fittings ; electric
bell indicator or ordinary bell-fittings ; dresser, ventilators and a sink.
The dresser is nearly always a movable article, but the upper part
of it has to be firmly secured to the wall by strong “ holdfasts,” and
it consequently becomes a fixture by agreement between tenant and
tenant or tenant and landlord. The dresser is usually some six or
seven feet long, and the upper part consists of four or five narrow
grooved shelves, upon which are disposed plates and dishes. The broad
shelf of the dresser, usually termed the top, affords ample space for
the accommodation of the soup-tureen, sauce-tureens and vegetable-
dishes ; while the drawers which run beneath form a convenient
receptacle. The lower part forms an open recess from end to end,
and has a shelf raised a few inches above the floor. This shelf is gener-
ally painted black, and forms a convenient place for large culinary
utensils not in use.
A well- constructed sink is indispensable in a kitchen. Wooden
sinks, lined with zinc, sinks made of stoneware, and sinks lined with
well-cemented tiles are very serviceable, and easily kept clean. They
should never be fixed in out-of-way corners, but should be easy of
access for both cleaning and repairing. Whether the sink is in constant
use or not, the pipe should be flushed at least once a day with hot
soda and water. However some people prefer it excluded from the
kitchen.
Every kitchen should be provided with some outlet for the hot foul
air which rises to the top of the kitchen. The doors and windows
may be used as a means of admitting fresh air, but an outlet at a higher
level than the window is always necessary.
The kitchen range is always a fixture, but of so much importance
that the subject will be treated separately.
What has been already said regarding kitchen fixtures applies
equally to the kitchens in middle-class households, but not to the
homes of the working-classes. Electric light and electric bell fittings
are not often found there ; properly- constructed sinks, efficient venti-
lation and convenient cupboards they have, or ought to have ; and in
many households a dresser is considered indispensable, but it is often
a movable article of furniture, and will be described under that heading.
Kitchen Furniture. — In making selection for the kitchen with dis-
tempered walls and bare floor, strength and durability are the chief
points to be considered. The centre table is the most important article
of furniture ; it should be as large as the kitchen will conveniently
allow ; and the usual form is oblong, with a drawer at each end. In
one drawer the cook keeps knives and spoons, and in the other small
utensils and implements in constant use, such as dariol -moulds, patty-
pans, and cases containing cutters, larding-needles, etc. Modern tables
THE KITCHEN
47
are provided with a shell underneath, which runs from end to end at a
convenient height from the floor ; and this arrangement is exceedingly
useful in large kitchens, because it saves a great deal of going to and
fro between the centre and side tables ; and in small kitchens where
the table space is limited the wide shelf forms a good substitute. The
table should be made of good, well-seasoned deal or other white hard
wood ; the top must be smooth, without cracks, and substantial,
and the legs perfectly plain and strong. No part of it should be painted,
because frequent washing is a necessity, and half-worn paint soon
presents a shabby appearance. On the other hand, well-scrubbed
wood always looks clean and appropriate when surrounded by bare
walls, uncovered floor and pots and pans. The table and one or two
substantial chairs comprise the whole furniture. The meat-screen,
chopping-block, jelly-stand, mortar, etc., all occupy space, but they
are not there to furnish the kitchen.
There is a wide choice in tables specially adapted to the kitchens
which fill the double office of Shakespeare’s “ cook room ” and Spenser’s
“ kitchen roome, ne spared for niceness none.” Good, plain, firm
substantial tables, either square or oblong, with turned legs in walnut
or mahogany, or deal stained in imitation of these woods, may be had
in sizes and prices to meet the requirements of all.
The term dresser was originally applied to a narrow side-table, on
which meat was dressed or prepared for use. In modern phraseology
the dresser is described as “ a kind of kitchen sideboard with rows of
shelves for plates, dishes, etc.” It may have three drawers in the
centre with a cupboard on either side ; or the order may be reversed,
and each cupboard be replaced by three drawers, with one cupboard
in the centre.
In completing the equipment of the kitchen, the number and
kind of articles necessary will be determined by its size, and the
circumstances of those who occupy the house. Every one should
set about the task of furnishing with a fixed determination to have
nothing that is not good and serviceable, no matter how plain, in
their homes. When means are limited, it is much better to buy what
is strictly necessary, and add articles of an ornamental character by
degrees.
The Kitchen Clock. — As the observance of time and adherence to
punctuality are necessary in almost everything that is done in the
kitchen, no kitchen can be regarded as being completely furnished
without a clock. The best kind of clock is an eight-day dial, which
requires winding up only once a week. An English eight-day clock
with a 1 2-inch dial may be bought for 35s., but a good kitchen clock
may be bought from about 6s. The best position for the clock is
over the mantelpiece, as in some culinary operations it has to be
frequently consulted, and the cook should be able to do this without
turning away from the fireplace.
48
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
COOKING APPLIANCES.
The last, but by far the most important of the kitchen requisites
that we are called upon to consider is the apparatus which is used
for cooking, heating water, etc., usually known as the kitchen range
or kitchener, names which originally had a distinctive import, but
which have lost much of their primary significence, and are now
applied without much discrimination to cooking appliances of
every kind, whether the fuel used be coal or gas. We will, how-
ever, for the sake of clearness, use the terms kitchen range, kitchener,
and gas range or stove, to indicate three widely marked varieties of
cooking apparatus : (i) the kitchen range, being taken to imply a
range, either open or close, that is fixed in its place with brickwork,
etc., and is therefore immovable ; (2) the kitchener, a range that
is entirely independent of all its surroundings, one which stands,
usually raised on four low legs, on the hearth in the recess otherwise
occupied by the kitchen range, movable in itself when necessary,
but virtually a fixture through its weight and size ; and (3) the gas
range or stove, like the kitchener really movable, though virtually
a fixture for the same reasons, but differing from the kitchener, not
only in form and in the kind of fuel used, but also in the fact that
it need not, like the kitchener, of necessity be placed on the hearth,
that the chimney may be utilized as a means of escape for smoke and
the various products of combustion, but may be placed in any part
of the kitchen convenient for the purpose.
The Kitchen Range. — Kitchen ranges may be distinguished as close
and open, the chief point of difference between them being in the
construction of the fire-grate or box in which the fuel used for heating
purposes is burnt. In the open range the fire-grate is uncovered at
the top, and forms a cavity, enclosed by the boiler and oven at the sides
and back, by a grating of close bars at the bottom, and by parallel
horizontal bars, about one inch square in section, placed from one and
a half to two inches apart in front. The fire in the open range, gener-
ally speaking, can be made larger or smaller at pleasure by means of
a movable check attached to a notched bar which is fixed at right
angles to its surface on one side of it, and moved backwards and for-
wards by means of a small cog-wheel, to a greater or less distance
from the fixed side of the grate, as may be found necessary. In the
close range the fire-chamber is inexpansive, closed in front either
wholly or partially by an iron door, and covered in at the top by an
iron plate, movable, and generally in two parts, namely, a circular
plate, dropping into and filling an opening in a square plate, the size
of the top of the fire box. At the back there is a fire-brick moulded
into shape. Close ranges are now chiefly used, but open ranges are
to be met with in the country and in some towns in the North and
in houses that have been built for some years, and in which the open
range that was originally fixed in the kitchen, still remains.
COOKING RANGES
i. Portable Range with Oven, fixed in front of grate,
with Oven and Boiler, fixed in recess.
2. Portable Range
THE KITCHEN
49
Open Ranges. — The closed stove with its movable grate and many con-
trivances for the disposal and regulation of heat is an invention of recent
years ; but the open fire with some primitive arrangement for cooking
above, or by the side of it, dates back to a remote age. In the peat
districts on the east and west coasts of England, cooking is still carried
on under what appear to us almost impossible conditions, i.e. by means
of a peat fire, burning on a stone hearth, with a wide chimney above
it. In nearly all the houses the back kitchen or scullery is provided
with a brick oven, in which bread and joints of meat may be baked ;
but by reason of the cost of extra fuel, time and trouble entailed,
the heating of this oven is a weekly, or at most, a bi-weekly occur-
rence, and on other days culinary operations are confined to the open
kitchen fire. Vegetables and puddings are cooked in saucepans, or
pots, as they are described in the local dialect, suspended over the fire ;
the means of suspension being a rigid bar of iron, fixed in the breast-
wall of the chimney, and supplied with strong hooks of varying length,
to allow the vessels to be raised or lowered to any height above the
fire. All the culinary utensils are provided with half-circular handles,
curved over the top like the handle of a kettle, but running from side
to side instead of from back to front. They have also a large oval
iron vessel, which they term a “ hang-over oven,” and use for baking
pies, puddings and cakes. It has a depressed lid, like a braizing pan,
which is filled with hot peat ; and in this manner a steady, gentle heat
is applied from above and below. A similar vessel, called a “ kail-
pot,” was used by the ancient Egyptians for baking bread and cakes.
Before man’s ingenuity had invented the chimney, the vessels were
suspended from a. tripod of three bars of iron or hard wood. One hook
only could be inserted at the point where the rods were joined, and
from this depended a large cauldron used for the various purposes of
boiling and stewing. Cakes were baked and fish cooked in an
open pan, which was probably the prototype of the North-country
“ griddle ” or “ girdle.”
In pre-historic times, while the early Britons were subsisting mainly
on milk, fruit, herbs and other products of the land, the ancient Druids
built fires of wood on hearths formed of rough stones ; and it has been
supposed that the agreeable odour of the roasted flesh of the sacrificed
animals first suggested their use as food ; but until the year a.d. 6i,
when the Romans abolished Druidisrn by force, the inhabitants of
Britain would not have dared to commit what would have been con-
sidered a terrible sacrilege.
There is no direct evidence of the fact, but it is highly probable
that roasting in front of the fire was one of the improved methods of
cooking introduced by the Normans in the eleventh century. Roasting
spits were in general use in the fourteenth century. They were first
turned by hand ; but afterwards dogs were specially trained for the
work which was executed by the dog keeping in motion a revolving
5o
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
cage in which he was enclosed. The srnoke-jacks, which are still found
in the kitchens of some old country-houses, were next introduced ;
these were turned by means of the smoke from the fire. The brass
bottle- jack, still in use, is a mechanical contrivance, which, when
wound up, revolves, carrying with it the joint of meat or whatever
may be attached. The open range is said to have only one strong
point in its favour, namely, that it will roast in front of the fire ; but
this one point is sufficient to recommend it for all time to those who
use it. Nothing will ever induce the North-country people to dis-
card their open ranges ; although many supplement them with a gas
stove, to make easier the cook’s work as regards frying and sauce-
making. As for the open ranges in the cottages, it is questionable
whether they burn more coal than a close stove of the same capacity,
for the careful housewife has various contrivances for reducing the
consumption of fuel when the fire is not needed for roasting or baking
purposes. Moreover, an oven heated from below is better adapted
to the requirements of people who always have home-made bread and
cakes ; and who prefer baked hot-pots and meat stewed in an earthen-
ware pot in the oven, to the more liquid and less savoury stews made
in a saucepan. Apart from the question of economy, the well-con-
structed close ranges found in good kitchens have many strong points
to recommend them ; but their various adjustments to facilitate
the disposal and regulation of heat, and the movable fire-box by which
the consumption of fuel is controlled, are characteristic of this par-
ticular class of stoves, and are not found in the small close stoves sup-
plied to artisan dwellings. And when the production of heat and the
consumption of fuel cannot be controlled, a close stove may prove
quite as wasteful as an open grate, and less satisfactory in other re-
spects.
Close Fire Ranges. — There is little doubt that “ close fire ” ranges
were at first mostly used in Devonshire for the convenience of the
hotplate over the top for scalding milk to obtain clotted cream,
open ranges being then used in London and other parts of the United
Kingdom. Gradually the use of the open range was abandoned for
the Leamington range, which at one time may be said to have had it
all its own way ; but now there are a variety of ranges, each claiming
some special merit, and rendering it a matter of considerable difficulty
to pick and choose between them. It may be said, however, that
economy of fuel and cleanliness are the chief features of close ranges
of all kinds, combined with efficiency of action, provided that the
flues themselves, through which the smoke and soot pass off into the
chimney, leaving considerable deposits in the passage, are kept per-
fectly clean.
Advantages claimed for Close Fire Ranges. — (i) Many saucepans and
vessels may be kept boiling at one time, and at the proper point oi
temperature.
THE KITCHEN
5i
(2) Saucepans and other vessels last double the time when used on
the hot-plate of a closed stove.
(3) Saucepans and other vessels may be kept as clean outside as
inside ; there is consequently an immense saving of labour.
(4) The fact of the entire range being covered by a hot-plate and the
fire not being exposed lessens the probability of having food smoked.-
(5) The hot-plate is well adapted for an ironing stove when not
in use for cookery purposes.
(6) Close ranges are usually provided with some simple contrivance
which enables them to be converted into slow combustion stoves,
whereby the fire may be kept burning all night with a very small con-
sumption of fuel, an inestimable advantage when it is necessary to
keep the water in the boiler hot.
(7) The best types may be easily converted into an open range
when a cheerful fire is desired.
(8) The heat is easily regulated, and when provided with an adjust-
able fire-box may be directed by a simple movement to the upper or
lower part of the oven as required.
How to clean a Close Range. — The oven door should be closed to keep
out the soot, and the kitchen door and window closed to prevent the
soot flying about, and then all the ashes and cinders should be removed.
All the little knobs on a range not attached to dampers indicate the
position of the flues, and each of the small doors must be opened one
at a time, and the soot swept down with a brush constructed for the
purpose, with a long flexible handle and a head like a bottle-brush.
The highest flue-door is located in the breast of the chimney, and the
sweeping should commence there. Usually a considerable amount
of soot is found lodged at the side of the oven ; all this must be swept
down and removed from the lowest soot door. After clearing away
all the soot the ovens must be swept out and thoroughly washed with
hot water and soda, to remove the grease ; and when necessary, the
grease should be removed by the same means from the top and front
of the stove. The stove must be perfectly dry before applying the
blacklead which will produce a more brilliant polish if moistened with
turpentine instead of water. The steel mouldings should be cleaned
with paraffin and emery powder, or when badly stained, with vinegar
and bathbrick.
Construction of a Good Stove. — Both cooking-ranges and cooking-
stoves are constructed of steel, malleable iron, wrought-iron and cast-
iron. Of these, the cast-iron stoves are the least expensive ; but they
cannot be recommended, because they are liable to crack ; they usually
waste fuel, owing to imperfect construction, frequently smoke, and are
frequently out of order. Well-constructed stoves made of malleable
iron, wrought-iron or steel are usually air-tight, give more evenly-
regulated heat, and are altogether better in many respects. Good
stoves do not allow the gases and fumes of the coal, or the soot
52
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
to invade the oven ; and the fire-box and oven are protected from
undue draughts which would affect the consumption of fuel or the
temperature of the oven. No oven can satisfactorily roast and bake
unless provided with a reversing damper by which the heat may be
directed to the top or bottom of the oven as required. One or two
of the best types have an adjustable fire-box, which may be lowered
when an open fire is needed for roasting, or a good bottom heat for
baking ; or raised when a top heat is desired in the oven, or the hot-
plate only required for boiling and frying purposes. They have also
well- ventilated ovens, whereby the proper flavour of the materials
cooked is retained ; and fire-boxes fitted with vertical bars placed
rather close together, but sufficiently narrow in section to allow any-
thing to be properly cooked in front of the fire. Tture are many
reliable firms who construct ranges on these principles; and the
annexed list of prices is an average of those of three of the best makers.
Ranges of corresponding size and quality of the respective firms are
fairly uniform in price ; but there is a wide difference in the cost of
ranges of corresponding size made by individual firms, due chiefly
to the expensive tiling and elaborate finish of the various details of
some of the ranges, which improve their appearance but add nothing
to their value in other respects. A good plain range, easily convertible
into a close or open fire, fitted with an adjustable fire-box, plate rack,
ventilating doors, reversing damper, patent cinder sifter, bright steel
mouldings and bright steel bracket-shelves under the oven may be
had at the following prices : —
Wide.
High.
With one Oven.
With two Ovens.
3 ft. 6 in.
4 ft. 9 in.
£i o io o
£12 0 0
4 ft.
4 ft. 9 in.
12 0 0
1300
4 ft. 6 in.
4 ft. 9 in.
13 IO 0
IS OO
5 ft-
4 ft. 9 in.
15 00
16 10 0
5 ft. 6 in.
5
17 10 0
19 0 0
The Kitchener. — The term “ range ” has been used to distinguish
the stove fixed in its place by brickwork from the stove or kitchener
winch may stand in any part of the room altogether independent of
its surroundings except the connecting tube that carries away the
products of combustion. This tube has a diameter of some eight or
ten inches ; and where there is no chimney it must be carried to the
outer wall and up the side of the house to a suitable level, otherwise
there is a strong down-draught. When used in England, the stove is
usually placed in or near the recess provided for a range, and the iron
tube passes into the chimney. This arrangement is to be recommended,
for the tube frequently becomes red-hot, and has often been a source
STOVES AND COOKING RANGE
i. Warming Stove. 2. Continuous burning Anthracite Coal Warming Stove.
3. Kitchen Range.
26
a a
THE KITCHEN
53
of great danger in the Canadian settlements where such stoves are
largely used. The small portable stoves are made in different sizes ;
the smallest is 2 1 inches long, two-thirds of its length being appropriated
by an oven, and the remaining space by the fire-grate. The cost of
such a stove is about 30s. or 35 s.
The Canadian Kitchener represents a more useful type of portable
stove. The medium size costs from ^4 10s. to ^5 10s. The hre-box
may be closed or opened as desired ; and its great depth, combined
with the narrow bars, greatly facilitates the process of roasting. These
stoves are frequently used in rooms where temporary cooking accom-
modation is required ; and when properly constructed and provided with
a good draught they may be pronounced satisfactory in many respects.
The central ranges used in large kitchens are based on an altogether
different principle. The flames from the burning coke or coal travel
over the roof and down the sides of the oven into an underground flue,
which runs to an outer wall, thence up the side of the building.
COOKING BY GAS, OIL, AND ELECTRICITY
Gas Stoves. — From the consideration of ranges in which cooking is
performed by the combustion of solid fuel, it is necessary to turn to
those in which gas is the fuel employed. Cooking by gas has been
much on the increase in late years, the gas companies in various
localities lending all the aid in their power to further it by supplying
their customers with gas stoves, or ranges, at a low annual rental.
Cooking by Gas has much to recommend it. Gas kitcheners are
compact, as no space has to be provided for furnace or ash-pit. They
are cleanly, causing no dust or smoke, and consequently can be kept in
perfect order with little trouble. And they are easily managed even
by inexperienced girls. The mere turning on of one or more taps
and the application of a lighted match to the burner or burners, sets
the kitchener in working order, without loss of time. Thus there is
economy, as fuel is only consumed when heat is actually required.
Moreover, the requisite temperature can be speedily produced and kept
under absolute control, an element of certainty which is of immense
value to cook and housewife. As gas burners are provided for boilers,
ovens, hot-plate and grills, each separately controlled, it is possible
to prepare a large dinner on a gas kitchener with comfort, security
and economy. Of late years great strides have been made in the design
and construction of gas kitcheners, which now, with their enamelled
ovens, and tops, wrought steel grilling bars, atmospheric burners and
other improvements, have reached a high degree of perfection. With
due care, it is impossible to spoil a dinner on a gas stove. Actual experi-
ment has proved that meat and other food loses less weight, and retains
more of its flavour when cooked by gas, than if cooked by coal. It
has been shown that meat cooked in a coal-heated oven loses about
54
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
35 per cent, of its weight, in a gas oven only 25 per cent. This immense
saving is no doubt due to the more evenly distributed and less fierce
temperature.
It is essential that gas kitcheners should be kept scrupulously clean.
The enamelled parts inside and out should be rubbed down when cold
with a sponge or cloth dipped in warm water, and then wiped dry.
The gas burners should be kept free from dust. Any grease on the
kitchener should be carefully removed. If these precautions are taken
and the burners properly lighted, all disagreeable odours will be avoided,
and certainty of results ensured.
Advantages of Cooking by Gas. — There are many features to recommend
cooking by gas, chief among which are —
(1) Cleanliness, and the readiness by which the fire can be lighted
and extinguished, facilities which are conducive to economy, because
the lire need only be maintained when it is required for cooking.
(2) It is economical in another respect, because meat cooked by gas
has been found to lose less weight than when cooked in an oven heated
by coal.
(3) The heat can be readily and instantly regulated, being concen-
trated precisely where required by means of the different burners,
each of which is independent of the other.
(4) Gas stoves are especially useful in summer and in small house-
holds, where, during the greater part of the day, no fire is needed.
(5) Saucepans and other vessels may be kept as clean outside as
inside.
(6) Cooking bv gas is less heating, and consequent'y less tiring to
the person employed, than cooking by a coal-range.
Construction of Gas Stoves. — The oven of a well-constructed gas stove
is made either entirely of cellular cast iron and jacketed all over with
slag wool, or it is made with a double casing with an intermediate hot-
air jacket. This is necessary to prevent heat being conducted from
the oven to the surrounding air. The gas-burners are not always
inside the oven ; when they are, the oven should have no bottom,
or if it has, there must be some provision made for admitting
atmospheric air to mingle with the gas. The mixture of air and gas
produces a bluish light ; when the light is yellow (while using the
atmospheric burners) the stove is wrongly-constructed in this respect,
or it has not been lit in a proper manner. The inside of the oven
and the top of the stove should be lined with porcelain enamel, in
order that it may be easily kept clean. The oven should be
provided with some efficient means of ventilation, whereby the
vitiated air may be carried away, and the mixed flavour which some-
times pervades different materials cooked in the same oven may
be obviated. The best stoves are provided with a patent
reversible grill which, when deflected downwards, may be used
for grilling meat or toasting bread. The rings on the top of the
UAO '-i UU J\. i IN Lt K.A1NLt±!.£>
Large Double Gas Oven with Hot Plate, suitable for large kitchen. 2. Gas Oven with Hot Plate, for ordinary use.
THE KITCHEN
55
stove should be provided with atmospheric burners, which produce
a blue flame, a mixture of gas and air, of higher heating power (with
consumption of less gas) than the white flame produced by the lumin-
ous burners.
Gas Fires. — The great advantages of gas over coal fires consists in the
complete absence of ashes and dirt ; in the fact that a bright hot fire
can be obtained at any moment, night or day ; that the heat can be
regulated at will, or the fire extinguished when not required ; in
dispensing with the necessity of carrying coal into, and ashes and refuse
out of, the room ; in the freedom of the atmosphere from dust, and the
consequent saving in the matter of furniture dusting, curtain washing,
etc. Against this must be reckoned the greater cost of gas fires as
compared with coal for constant use ; but, notwithstanding this, there
are few persons who have once used a good gas fire that could be per-
suaded to return to the old method of heating. For bedrooms, and
occasional using, a gas fire is always economical, as compared with
coal ; in fact, the expense and great trouble of coal fires for bedrooms
render their use sometimes prohibitory, whereas a good hot gas fire
can be obtained for half an hour, night and morning, at a cost of 6d.
per week or less. In the sick-room a gas fire is simply invaluable ;
its steadiness, night and day, and the perfect control over the warmth
of the room are far above the possibilities of any coal fire. In sudden
emergencies the instant command of a good fire in the night is some-
times a matter of life or death. In the bronchial affections common
in this country warmed air is frequently of the utmost importance,
and this can be obtained in moderate sized rooms by a gas stove pro-
perly constructed, with a regularity and economy which cannot be
approached by coal or coke. Where the family consists of only two
or three persons, small but powerful open gas fires, with an oven over
the fire to utilize the waste heat, will be found of the greatest value
and economy, as they do away entirely with the dirt and labour of coal
fires, and yet fill all the purposes of a small kitchen range. These
are now to be procured from any gas Company, hired from them, or
obtained by the hire purchase system.
Objections to Gas. — The objections to the use of gas as a fuel exist only
where the wrong appliances are selected, or when no trouble is taken to
learn their proper use. One of the most common causes of failure with
gas fires is that they are purchased for use either where there is no flue
or where the chimney has a down draught ; in such cases as these the
faults which cause the failure of a coal fire will be equally unfavourable
to a gas fire. Burners used for gas cookers must be kept clear and
in good condition ; if choked with dirt and grease, they will be as un-
satisfactory as burners used for lighting under the same conditions.
Pans and kettles must be kept clean outside, or they make an un-
pleasant smell, and ovens must be kept clean inside for the same
reason, and also for the sake of sweet flavours in the food.
56
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Oil Stoves. — A well-constructed, cleanly kept and well-managed oil
stove will cook food as well as any other stove of corresponding capa-
city ; and with proper care there should be neither smoke nor odour
from the flame. These stoves are sometimes a great convenience in
places not within reach of gas. No flue is required for their use ; and
being small they can be easily conveyed from place to place. Cooking
on an oil stove may be done 20 per cent, cheaper than by any other
means ; but unless the wicks are kept well-trimmed and the stoves
properly managed, they emit a disagreeable smell and smoke. In a
properly constructed stove there is not much danger from explosion,
unless a light is, through carelessness, brought in contact with the oil.
Cooking by Electricity is now quite practicable, though for the present
decidedly expensive. The heat is obtained from the ordinary electric
lighting mains, the current being made to pass through wires coiled
on iron or steel plates, and embedded in enamel, having the same ratio
of expansion and retraction as the metal. In this way the plates of
ovens, sides of boilers, hot-plates and corrugated grills can be heated.
Stewpaus and kettles are heated separately, these having double
bottoms with the wires coiled between, and the current conveyed by
flexible silk covered wires connected with a special fitting at the end
of the handles. There is practically no loss of heat, as the electrical
connexion is only made when cooking is in actual progress. The
system also of course ensures freedom from dust and dirt, or undue
radiatior in the kitchen. It may be mentioned that the King’s yacht
(constructed for her late Majesty, Queen Victoria) is fitted up with a
complete electric kitchen outfit, including soup and coffee boilers, hot-
plates, ovens, grills and hot closets. As some municipalities are now
supplying the electric current in the daytime at as low a rate as 2d.
per Board of Trade unit, it is probable that cooking by electricity is
destined to undergo a rapid development.
CULINARY UTENSILS.
Stewpans and Saucepans. — Stewpans and saucepans are usually, though
not necessarily, circular in form, provided with a long handle, a lid
or cover, and sometimes, in the smaller kinds, with a lip for the better
and easier transference of its contents to another vessel. The term
saucepan is applied indiscriminately to all kinds of saucepans and
stewpans ; but the name stewpan is generally used to denote the
shallower pans with straight sides and flat long-handled covers ;
it should never be applied to an iron saucepan. Stewpans are made in
copper ; wrought steel ; tin, enamelled inside and out and iron.
Saucepans are made in copper ; brass ; iron, tinned inside ; iron,
enamelled inside ; block tin ; tin, enamelled inside and outside.
Stewpans generally have straight sides ; but saucepans vary in
COOKING, ETC, BY ELECTRIC HEAT.
Double Hot Plate, Frying Pan, Small Range, Radiator (Stove), Stewpan,
Radiator (Stove), Grill.
1 1
K
THE KITCHEN
57
shape, as shown in the illustrations. Their capacity and prices range
as follows : —
Description.
Size.
In. in
dmtr.
Capa-
city.
Pints.
Price.
Copper Stewpans and Covers, Best quality
4
I
6s.
Second
4
I
5s-
9 d.
Best
5
2
7s.
id-
,, Second „
5
2
65.
6 d.
,, Best
6
3
8s. •
id.
,, Second
6
3
7s.
9 d.
,, Best
8
7
15s.
id.
,, Second
8
7
13s.
11 d.
,, ,, Best
IO
i4
23s.
gd.
,, ,, Second
IO
14
19s.
9 d.
Best
12
22
35s-
Second
12
22
27s.
Wrought Steel Stewpans with Tin Covers, Best qltv.
4
I
3 s.
id.
5
2
4s.
id.
6
3
4s.
gd.
7
S
6s.
6d.
>> »» •
8
7
7s.
3 d-
IO
14
105.
6d.
12
22
15s.
6d.
t > > » > i • •
14
44
205.
6d.
Cast-Iron with Block-Tin Covers, Best quality
4
I
15.
2
15.
id.
6 i
4
2S.
» i » » > » • •
7%
6
25.
6d.
ft ft ft • •
8i
8
3s-
t > it i t • •
9i
12
3s-
6d.
IO^r
1 6
4s.
n£
20
4s.
gd.
12
24
5s.
6d.
The prices and capacity of saucepans and other articles are taken from
the illustrated catalogues and price lists of the best firms and
stores in London. Enamelled saucepans are not often used in kitchens
where much cooking is done. They are inexpensive but not very
durable ; they answer very well for boiling milk, but anything thick-
ened with flour, if allowed to stand, quickly burns at the bottom.
The wrought-steel saucepans are more expensive but decidedly cheaper
in the end. They possess all the advantages of copper without any
of its drawbacks ; they are easily kept clean, anything cooked in them
does not become discoloured, and thickened sauces may be simmered
in them for hours without injury, if occasionally stirred. The insides
of the saucepans require re-tinning occasionally ; but when the tin
wears off they are as harmless as before, being made of steel. Copper
saucepans also are very durable ; in fact they last a hfetime, and are
5«
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
an ornament to the kitchen when kept beautifully clean, as they should
be ; but this entails considerable labour, a point to be considered
where few servants are kept. Copper utensils should be frequently
examined and re-tinned as soon as the linings begin to show signs
of wear. One of the objections to the use of copper for culinary pur-
poses is its liability to become coated with verdigris, or copper-rust,
under careless or unskilful hands — verdigris being a poison imparting
its deadly properties to any food cooked in a vessel that is tainted
with it.
Boiler or Boiling Pot. — In large families this utensil comes into almost
daily requisition. It is used for boiling large joints, hams, puddings,
etc.., and is usually made of iron. Boilers may be had in cast iron,
tinned inside, to hold from 3 gallons to 7 gallons, at from 4s. 9d. to
1 os., according to size ; in wrought iron, with bright cover, to hold
from 4 gallons to 12 gallons, from 12s. to 26s.
The Digester. — This utensil is a kind of stock-pot, made of iron, having
a lid which fits closely into a groove at the top of it. No steam
escapes, therefore, by the lid ; and it is only through the valve
at the top of the cover that the superfluous steam passes off.
It is a very valuable utensil, inasmuch as by using it a larger quantity
of wholesome and nourishing food may be obtained at much cheaper
rates than is possible without it, and when bones are boiled in it its
action will extract every nutritive particle from them, leaving nothing
but the inorganic part of the bones. This utensil, when in use, should
not be placed over a fierce fire, as that would injure the quality of the
preparation ; for whatever is cooked must be done by a slow and
gradual process, the liquid being just kept at the simmering point.
These digesters are made in all sizes, and may be obtained to hold from
4 quarts to 16 quarts. The prices of digesters vary according to
capacity, namely, to hold 4 quarts, 3s. 9d.; 6 quarts, 5s.; 8 quarts, 6s.;
10 quarts, 7s.; 12 quarts, 8s.; and 16 quarts, 10s. 6d.
The Stock-pot. — This article is used in the preparation of stock, which
forms the foundation of soups, gravies, etc. Stock-pots are made in cop-
per, wrought steel or iron. Copper stock-pots to hold 8 quarts, fitted with
tap and strainer, are supplied in a good quality for about 42s. 6d. The
price of a stock-pot, of corresponding capacity, in wrought steel would be
20s. 9d. with tap and strainer, and 12s. 3d. without these conveniences.
They may also be obtained in wrought iron and earthenware, the
latter being specially suited to small households, because a smaller
amount of heat is required to keep the contents at simmering point
and the stock-pot need not be emptied every day. The tap and
strainer add about 30 per cent, to the cost of a stock-pot, but the
advantage of being able to draw off the stock from the bottom, leaving
the fat and the bones, vegetables and other solids behind, is well worth
the additional outlay.
The Braising Pan. — This vessel is employed in a culinary process,
KITCHEN UTENSILS.
i. Household Weighing Machine. 2. Oval Boiling Pot. 3. Turbot Kettle.
4\ Copper Preserving Pan. 5. Fish Kettle. 6. Bain Marie Pans. 7. Iron. Stockpot
with Tap. 8. Saucepan and Steamer, g. Steak Tongs. 10. F'ish Slice.
8
THE KITCHEN
59
termed braising or braizing. In shape it may be either round or oval,
with a depressed lid in which hot charcoal is placed, whereby the meat
is cooked between two slow fires. This method is said to develop
more fully the flavours of materials cooked ; also to decrease the loss
of strength and flavour by evaporation ; it is largely practised in
France. In England the braising-pan is frequently placed in the oven in-
stead of under charcoal, the latter article as a fuel being but seldom used.
The Double or Milk Saucepan. This is, on a small scale, what the bain-
marie is on a larger scale. The smaller saucepan fitting into the larger
one is either lined with enamel or made of earthenware. The double
saucepan is especially useful for making porridge and gruel, and boiling
custards and milk. It may also be usefully employed in cooking tapioca,
sago, semolina and other farinaceous substances, when the oven is
being used for other purposes, and is too hot for the long, gentle process
of cooking they require. When an egg is added to any of these pre-
parations, it should be mixed in just before the pudding is put into
the oven to brown. The double saucepan is supplied in four sizes,
known as Nos. i, 2, 3, 4, and sold respectively at 3s. 3d., 3s. 9d.,qs. 9d.
and 6s. 6d. The lower saucepan is made of block tin, and when in use
should be half filled with water, which must be replaced as it boils
away, otherwise the upper saucepan is liable to crack.
Steamers. — These articles consist of a cylinder of tin, tinned iron
or copper, made to fit into the top of a saucepan and to carry the
saucepan cover as its lid. The lower or saucepan portion varies in
capacity from 6 to 14 pints, and the entire appliance is sold from
2s. 6d. to 4s. 3d., according to size. Larger kinds, containing from
6 to 12 quarts, may also be obtained. Steamers are chiefly used in
cooking potatoes and puddings, especially those containing meat or
fruit. When the potatoes are sufficiently cooked, the water in the
saucepan should be poured off and the steamer replaced. The heat
from the saucepan below quickly causes the moisture remaining in
the potatoes and the steamer itself to evaporate, thus converting the
latter into a dry hot closet, in which the cooking of the potatoes is
completed. Even when boiled, potatoes are more floury when the
water is drained off, and the cooking completed this way. It is
possible to place one steamer above another, and, indeed, some
steam-cookery vessels are constructed to carry four or six steamers,
a contrivance being provided to prevent steam from one department
invading another.
The Turbot Kettle and Salmon Kettle. — This variety of fish-kettle is
arranged to suit the shape of the fish from which it takes its name.
It is shallow, very broad, and is fitted inside with a drainer similar to
that in other fish-kettles. Turbot-kettles are usually supplied in three
sizes known as small, middle and large. These sizes, in block-tin, strong,
are supplied at ns., 13s. and 18s. 9d. The salmon kettle is a long,
narrow utensil, like the fish-kettle, but the cover has a handle at
Go
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
each end instead of one only in the middle. They are made in
copper, with draining plates, in sizes from 20 inches to 30 inches in
length
The Fish Pan, or Kettle. — This utensil is fitted with a drainer inside,
which is lifted when the fish is sufficiently cooked. The drainer
is then laid across the kettle, and the fish lifted on to the dish with the
fish-slice — a perforated plate attached to a long handle, sold at is.,
is. 3d. and is. 6d., according to size. Fish kettles are longer than they
are wide, and are made either with handles at the side, or
with a swing handle, like that of a pail. The former is the
more convenient shape, on account of the facility which the two
handles at the ends afford for putting the kettle on the range or taking
it off. Prices range from 3s. 6d. to 9s. for kettles in strong
block- tin plate, and from 15s. to 42s. for iron kettles. Copper fish
kettles, from 16 inches to 22 inches, are supplied at prices ranging from
45s. to 85s. The mackerel-kettle, or saucepan, which will serve as a
fish-kettle for all long fish, such as whiting, haddock, etc., and for soles
and small plaice, is an elongated saucepan, with cover, and having a
long handle on one side and an iron looped handle opposite to it on
the other side. It is made in three sizes, sold respectively at 3s., 4s.
and 5 s.
Fish Fryer and Drainer. — This is an admirable contrivance for frying fish,
by using which an experienced cook is much more likely to insure
success and send a dish of fried fish properly to table. It is in shape
not unlike a preserving-pan fitted with a closely-made wire drainer ;
and in this the fish is placed and lowered into the heated fat. As in
frying fish it is necessary to have a large amount of fat, the depth of this
kettle gives it a considerable superiority over the ordinary frying-pan.
There is, besides, very httle danger of the fish breaking, for being lifted
up on the drainer when done, it is easily dished. Cooked in this manner
the fish does not require turning, as the fat quite covers it, and of
course browns it on both sides at once. The greasy moisture, too, is
more effectually got rid of. Fat-pans with drainers may be obtained
from a good ironmonger at the following prices
Extra Strong Copper, with Drainer : —
14-in. 15-in. 16-in. 17-in. 18 in.
£1 16 o £ 200 £ 250 ^280 £2 14 o
Strong Wrought Steel : —
12-in. 13-in. 14-in. 15-in. 16-in. 17-in. 18-in.
ns. ns. 6d. 13s. 15s. 16s. 6d. 18s. 6d. £100
Wire Vegetable Strainer. — This useful article consists of a wire frame,
round which thinner wire is coiled and fastened. It is made to fit
inside a stewpan or saucepan, and thus forms a convenient utensil in
which to boil vegetables and to lift them at once out of the water ; or
THE KITCHEN
61
for frying whitebait, or parsley or sliced vegetables for soups, etc.
They are made in sizes from 6 inches to io inches in diameter, and sold
at prices from 2S. 3d. to 5s., according to size.
The Frying-pan. — This article is so well known that it is only necessary
to mention shapes, sizes and prices. They may be had either round
or oval in form, with shelving sides ; the round pans being made in
sizes ranging from inches to 9 inches at top, at prices varying from
9d. to is. 2d. The oval pans, which are more commonly used, are
made in sizes from 11% inches to 15 inches in length, and are supplied
from is. to 2S.
The Omelet Pan. — This pan is a variety of the frying-pan, and gener-
ally made circular in form, but shallower than the frying-pan, for con-
venience in turning pancakes, omelets, etc. These pans are made in
bright polished wrought iron, raised in one piece, from 6 inches to 10
inches in diameter, and sold from 5s. to 8s. 3d. Bowl omelet pans for
souffle omelets, are made 8 inches, 9 inches and 10 inches in diameter,
and sold at 7s., 8s. and 9s. each. Copper omelet pans, with burnished
iron handles, range from 6\ inches to 16 inches in diameter, and are
sold from 5s. to ns. each. Pans of the same material, with rounded
or bowl bottoms for souffles, are made 8 inches, 8-^ inches and 9 inches
in diameter, and sold at 9s. 6d., 10s. 6d. and ns. 6d. each.
The Frieandeau or Cutlet Pan. — This is another variety of the frying-
pan. It is made with upright sides, from 7 inches to 14 inches in
diameter, at prices ranging from 21s. to 68s., according to size when
made of copper ; but iron or steel pans are also made, especially in the
intermediate sizes, from 10 to 12 inches in diameter, which are cheaper.
The saute pan is not so deep as the cutlet pan, and has no cover, and
differs only from the omelet pan in having its handle more raised above
the edge of the pan. It is made in sizes ranging from 7 inches to 14
inches in diameter, and sold at prices ranging from 6s. 6d. to 20s. A
few sizes, 8 inches, 9 inches and 10 inches in diameter, and made extra
deep and furnished with covers like the fricandeau-pan, are sold at
2 is., 25s. and 30s. respectively.
Bain-Marie Pan and Stewpans, etc. — The bain-marie is not used so
much in England as it deserves to be, and is only to be found in large
establishments. In serving a large dinner it is a most useful and
indeed necessary article. The pan is filled with boiling water and
stands on the hot-plate of the range or kitchener. The saucepans
containing the sauces, gravies, entrees, etc., stand in the water, and
the bain-marie keeps their contents at a proper heat without any risk
of burning or loss of flavour. If the hour of dinner is uncertain in any
establishment, no means of preserving the warmth and flavour of the
dishes to be served is so sure and harmless as the employment of the
bain-marie. Prices vary according to the number of stew-pans re-
quired. Each set comprises the bain-marie pan, 1 glazepot, 1 soup-
pot, and from 4 to 12 stewpans in sizes ranging from 3 inches to 5^
62
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
inches. A complete set of 7 strong, well-made tin stewpans, 1 glaze-
pot and 1 soup-pot, in a bain-marie pan of wrought steel, may be
obtained for £2. Or, the same number of utensils in wrought steel,
fitted in a bain-marie pan, 16 x 12^ inches, would cost £■$ 13s.; and in
the best quality of copper £6. Larger sizes may be bought at a corre-
sponding increase in price.
Warren’s Cooking Pot is a vessel in three divisions, in which meat and
vegetables may be cooked at the same time, but in separate compart-
ments. The peculiarity of the process consists in cooking without
the viands coming in contact with water or steam ; the meat, kept
from water entirely, is cooked in an inner cylinder, the outer one
containing the water, being kept at boiling point. The food thus
prepared is cooked in its own vapour, and none of its nutritious pro-
perties are wasted. These utensils are also convenient where cooking
space is limited, and economical when cooking by gas, because one
ring of burners would serve instead of two or three. The price of the
round saucepan is from 7s. 9d. to 20s., and the smaller size in the
oval cooking pot costs 21s.
The Bottle-jack. — The action of this familiar piece of kitchen furni-
ture, so called from its resemblance to an ordinary glass bottle, is
so well known that very little explanation is needed. When the
joint is hooked on, the jack requires winding up, an operation which
must be repeated once or twice during the time the meat is cooking.
A bottle- jack complete, capable of carrying a joint of 20 lbs., may be
had for 6s. 9d. This bottle-jack is large enough for ordinary family
use ; but larger sizes, to carry from 25 to 70 lbs. may be had from
8s. 6d. to 20s. In cases of necessity it may be dispensed with, and a
suspender formed of a skein of worsted, knotted here and there
throughout its length, used instead.
Meat Screen. — When the meat is roasting a meat-screen should be
placed in front of the fire, to concentrate and reflect the radiated heat
as much as possible. It is made of tin, 3 feet in width, and costs 12s. 9d.
to 15s. 3d. Round screens known as bottle- jack screens, having bands
at the top, from which the bottle-jack is suspended, and a dripping-
pan in the bottom, are sold in three sizes, varying in price, according to
stoutness of make, as follows : No. 1, from 12s. 6d. to 26s. ; No. 2,
from 15s. 9d. to 25s.; and No. 3, from 19s. 6d. to 30s.
The Dripping-pan. — This is a receptacle for the droppings of fat and
gravy from the roast meat. In some cases it forms an integral part
of the meat screen, but when it is separate from it, it is supported
on an iron stand. The pan is arranged with a well in the centre,
covered with a lid, and round this well is a series of small holes, which
allow the dripping to pass into the well free from cinders or ashes.
When the meat is basted, the lid of the well is lifted up. The basting-
ladle used to apply the dripping to the meat is half covered over at
the top with a piece of metal perforated with small holes, so that
KITCHEN UTENSILS,
i. Bottle Roasting Jack. 2. Mincing Knife, or Suet Chopper. 3. Meat Chopper.
14. Frying Pans. 5. Wire Meat Cover. 6. Pestle and Mortar. 7. Mincing or Sausage
Machine, with Table Clamp. 8. Double Baking Pan, with Meat Stand. 9. Drip Pan,
with Basting Ladle. 10. Bottle Jack Roasting Screen.
6 d *
THE KITCHEN
63
should a small piece of cinder get into the ladle it will lodge there
and not fall on the meat. Dripping-pans of block tin, with wells, are
made in four sizes, ranging in price from 2s. to 3s. 6d. Wrought
iron stands for these dripping-pans cost from 3s. to 4s., and bast-
ing ladles from is. to 2s. Extra strong wrought iron dripping-
pans with wells, and mounted on wrought iron legs, range in size from
2 feet 6 inches to 4 feet in length, and cost from 33s. to 90s., according
to size. Strong wrought iron basting ladles to accompany these ap-
pliances are made in three sizes, namety, 4, 4^ and 5 inches in diameter,
costing 7s. 6d. 8s. 6d. and 10s. 6d. respectively.
Double Baking-pan and Stand. — Closely akin to the dripping-pan used
in open-fire roasting is the double baking-pan and stand used in ranges
and kitcheners for baking meat, poultry, etc. These are usually
supplied with ranges and kitcheners when first purchased ; but some-
times it is necessary to renew them. The lower pan contains water which
may be added through the opening in the lower right-hand corner, made
by a depression in the inner pan ; the perforated shield or hood, cover-
ing the opposite corner being used for pouring off the dripping. These
pans are supplied in oblong form, from 13 inches to 18 inches in length,
at prices ranging from 3s. 9d. to 7s. 6d.; or square, from 12 inches
to 16 inches, from 4s. to 7s. It may be added that single pans are
supplied in the above sizes, oblong, from is. 2d. to 2s.; and square,
from is. qd. to 2s.
The Gridiron. — This utensil, which in its ordinary form consists of a
frame supported on four short legs, one at each corner, and with round
bars from front to back, and a handle at the back of the frame, is used
for broiling purposes of all kinds. The round bar gridiron is made
with from 8 to 12 bars, according to size, and is sold at from iod. to
is. 3d.
Hanging Gridiron. — The hanging gridiron consists of a double frame,
similar in form to the bed or platform of the ordinary gridiron. Below
the frames is a small trough or pan, in which the dripping or gravy
running from the meat is caught, and above, the centre bars in each
frame project upwards, forming the means of keeping the frames
together when the meat is placed between them, by a wire ring, square
in form, that is slipped over them. The hanging gridiron is suspended
before the fire, on bars fastened to hooks, which slip over the top bar
of the range. Hooks are attached to the inner frame to take slices
of bacon, chops, steaks, etc., when placed between the frames, and to
keep them in a proper position. These gridirons are made of wrought
iron with from 8 to 12 bars, and are sold at 3s. 6d. and 5s. each, accord-
ing to size.
American Grip Broiler and Toaster. — This grilling utensil is most useful
and desirable for broiling steaks, chops, fish, etc. It is made of polished
steel, with perforation in both plates, having their edges turned in-
wards. Thus it may be turned over on the fire without the escape and
64
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
consequent loss of any of the fat or gravy coming from the meat,
etc., the basting process being self-acting, and the flavour of the meat,
etc., being fully retained. The ’perforations being turned inwards, grip
the meat or fish firmly, and prevent any motion from one part of
the pan to another. By frequent turning the gravy, etc., is distributed
over the upper surface of the meat or fish, while the under side is being
acted on by the heat, and thus uniform tenderness and juiciness of the
food that is being cooked is insured. It is suitable for use in the
openings on the top of a cooking range or kitchener, or on the hot-
plate of a close fire range or over the open fire, and it may be used as
a bread toaster on the hot-plate or in front of the fire. It is made in
two sizes, namely, 9 inches in diameter, sold at 2s., and 10 inches,, at
2s. 6d.
Dutch Oven. — The Dutch oven, or bacon broiler or toaster, is made
in different shapes, but the principle and purpose of each is precisely
the same, and consists of a flat bottom with triangular sides rising
from it at each end. The bottom is fitted with a shallow dripping-
pan, over which, with the ends inserted near the top of each triangular
sidepiece, is a bar with hooks arranged at regular intervals. On the
external surface of each side is a handle, by which the utensil may be
placed on or removed from the plate hanger, which consists of a sliding
plate on two bars, terminating in hooks in front, to hang on the bars
of the range. Attached to the sides of the Dutch oven at the very
apex of each, is a cover, or flap, which, in consequence of being fixed
on a swivel, may be used on either side. The advantage of this rever-
sible cover is that by turning the utensil round on the plate hanger
and reversing the flap, each side of the meat or bacon that is being
cooked can be presented to the fire quickly, without turning it on the
hooks. Prices vary according to size ; one 10 inches long, and fitted
with four or five hooks, would cost 2s. 6d. ; 12 inches, 2s. 9d.; 14 inches,
3s. 6d.
Toast Grid. — The toast grid for toasting bread is a utensil used for
toasting bread on the hot-plate of a range ; but if the front of an open-
fire range be large enough, and the heat sufficient, it may be used there
with equal convenience and facility. It consists of two frames covered
with wire, between which the bread is placed ; the frames are
supplied with wire handles, which can be held together with a sliding
ring. These grids are sold at is. 3d. and is. 9d.
UTENSILS AUXILIARY TO COOKING.
Auxiliary Utensils. — To describe everything that it is possible to intro-
duce into the kitchen for use therein is neither practicable nor desirable.
From the thousand and one articles, however, that might be enu-
merated, some few may be selected that hold a prominent place either
from the frequency with which they are brought into use, or from the
obvious necessity that exists for having them at hand when required.
THE KITCHEN
65
Weights and Seales. — Our list of utensils may well start with this most
important article or series of articles, as a good set of weights and
scales is absolutely necessary to every cook. The cook should bear in
mind always to put the weights away in their respective places after
they have been used, and to keep the scales in thorough order. In
weighing butter, lard, or anything that is of a greasy nature, a piece
of paper should be placed in the scale before putting in the substance
to be weighed. By doing this much labour will be saved. There are
many reliable kinds of weighing machines, but the ordinary shop scales
and weights still remain the most popular, and the price of a set of
weights and scales, with weights sufficient to weigh from £ oz. to 14 lbs.,
is 18s. 6d., and to weigh 28 lbs., 22s. 6d. Spring balances to weigh up to
200 lbs. cost about 1 is. and will often be found a great convenience.
Mincing Machine. — This time- and labour-saving invention is almost in-
dispensable in elaborate culinary preparations. The intending purchaser
has a wide choice as regards price, size and variety in form. Although
the principle is practically the same in all machines, they differ in many
respects some doing their work more thoroughly than others, besides
being more easily adjusted and kept clean. The “ American Two-
Roller Mincer ” is to be highly recommended in this respect, because
the rollers are lined with enamel, and the knives so arranged that they
may be easily cleaned. These machines are made in several sizes in
two qualities, and may be procured at any ironmonger’s, and cost from
9s. 6d. to 12s. 6d. Ordinary mincing machines may be obtained at
from 4s. 3d. Mincing machines answer admirably for quenelle meat,
rissoles, etc., where the meat is mixed with other ingredients ; but meat
to be served as collops or mince is better cut by hand, as the particles of
meat must be separate for these dishes, not crushed into a fine mass. Suet
may be more quickly and satisfactorily chopped on a board or in a bowl
than by a mincing machine, for, no matter how much flour is mixed with
it, the suet sticks to the blades of the knives and forms itself into a
compact mass. There are, however, chopping machines in which the
knife acts on the material on the same principle as chopping by hand.
Thejr are not generally used in small households, but in large kitchens
where much chopping of this description has to be done, they are most
useful.
Brawn Tin. — This utensil is invaluable in preparing brawn or collard
head. It is a tin cyhnder placed on a foot or stand, into which the
superfluous gravy escapes when the meat is placed in the cylinder and
put under pressure. For this purpose the bottom of the cyhnder
consists of a movable perforated plate. The cyhnder is not soldered
along the junction of the ends of the metal of which it is composed,
but the ends overlap, and are movable, one over the other, to a certain
extent. By this means the cylinder is rendered expansive and will
expand from 6\ inches in diameter to 8 inches. It is sold at 4s. 6d .
Tongue or Brawn Presser. — This article may be used for making either
D
66
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
brawn or collard head, like the brawn tin last described ; or it may be
used for compressing boiled tongue into a round, in which shape it is
most conveniently sent to table, and moreover ensures an equal dis-
tribution of the fat and lean, which is not the case if the tongue be sent
up unpressed, when the greater part of the fat in the root of the
tongue is sent away uneaten. There is a perforated plate at the
bottom through which the gravy escapes, and a flat plate acted on by a
powerful screw at the top, by which the contents of the presser are
squeezed to flatness. A good presser may be bought for qs. 6d.
Rotary Bread Grater. — This machine grates or crumbles the bread
without leaving a particle of waste, and will do a small quantity. The
crumbs made by this process are much finer than when made on an
ordinary bread grater. This grater is only made in one size and
quality ; the price complete is 5s. 6d.
The ordinary bread grater has smaller perforated plates attached to
the side for grating nutmeg, ginger, etc., and is supplied at prices
ranging from 6d., according to size.
Steak Tongs. — When meat is being broiled or grilled, to prevent the
j uices of the steak from being lost by pricking the meat with a fork, in
turning it about on the gridiron, steak tongs are brought into requisition
for handling the steaks during the process. By making use of these the
gravy is kept in the meat. These are supplied at prices ranging from
2S. upwards. A cutlet bat is sometimes used for beating cutlets,
chops, etc. ; steaks, if beaten, are beaten with the rolling-pin.
The Meat Chopper is used for chopping and disjointing bones.
Their price varies from is. 6d. to 2s., according to size. Meat
choppers have wood handles. Steel cleavers have handles of steel,
that is to say, blade and handle are made all in one piece. They are
sold at from 3s. 6d. to 4s. 6d., according to size.
Meat Saw. — A meat saw is used for sawing bones in places where
a chopper is not available. For instance, this utensil would come into
requisition where a knuckle of ham is required to be severed from
the thick end. The meat would first be cut all round down to the
bone with a sharp knife, and the bone would then be sawn through.
Good meat saws are sold at from 2s. 6d.
Cook’s Knife. — The knives generally used by cooks are made very
pointed at the end ; and for cookery purposes the slightly convex
blades are preferable to those of ordinary shape. They are made
6 inches, 7 inches, 8 inches, 9 inches, 10 inches, 1 1 inches and 12 inches
in length, and cost in the best quality from 2s. to 4s. each, according
to length of blade ; and from iod. to is. iod. in the second quality.
Both varieties have plain ebony handles. Cook’s forks are made
to match the knives ; they are larger and stronger than ordinary
forks, and, therefore, better suited for lifting masses of meat, etc.,
out of a saucepan. Prices vary from is. to 2s. each, according to length
of prong ; the average and most convenient size cost about 2s. or 2s. 6d.
THE KITCHEN
6 7
French Chopping Knife. — The chopping knife is similar in shape to
the cook's knife but of much stronger make. It may be had in two
sizes, each made in two qualities, and costing respectively 3s. or 3s. qd.,
with blades measuring 9 inches and 6s. or 6s. 6d., with blades 2 inches
longer.
Mincing Knife. — A knife for chopping suet or mincemeat on a wooden
board. As it is made with a firm wooden handle, the hand does not
become so tired as when using an ordinary knife on a board ; and
the chopping is accomplished in a much shorter time. These imple-
ments should be kept sharp, and should be ground occasionally. There
is also a knife half-circular in form used for chopping materials in a
wooden bowl. A good mincing knife in either form is supplied at
is. 9d.
Chopping Bowl and Board. — For chopping suet, meat, etc., with the half-
circular knife a wooden bowl should be provided. They are made from 10
inches to 16 inches in diameter, the smallest size being is. 6d. ; but
that is too small to be generally useful, a more convenient size is the
bowl measuring 13 inches, supplied at 4s. A chopping board costs
about 2s.
Colander. — This useful article comes into daily requisition. The
most convenient and strongest form is that of a round tin basin with
handles, perforated at the bottom and round the sides with small
holes. It is used for straining vegetables, these being poured into
the colander when they are cooked, and allowed to remain for a
minute or two until all the water is drained from them, when
they are dished. Colanders, or cullenders, as the word is some-
times spelt, are made in four sizes, supplied in tin at from is. 3d.
to 2s. 6d. each, according to size. They are also to be had in strong
tin enamelled inside and outside from is., according to size. They
possess all the advantages of cleanliness, freedom from rust, etc., of
perforated earthenware basins, without their liability to be cracked
or broken.
Pestle and Mortar. — Pestles and mortars are made of iron, brass,
marble and Wedgwood ware. Those of marble or Wedgwood ware
are decidedly to be preferred, as they can be easily kept clean. This
utensil is used for pounding sugar, spices and other ingredients
required in many preparations of the culinary art. Potted meat is
first cooked, minced and then pounded in a mortar ; and many
farces must be pounded before they can be rubbed through a sieve.
Pestles and mortars in composition, are made in sizes ranging from 7
inches to 10 inches, taking the diameter of the top of the mortar,
and are sold at from is. qd. to 3s. 3d., according to size. These
prices include pestles. Marble mortars range in size from 10 inches
to 14 inches, and in price from 4s. 6d. to 9s. 3d. Pestles of hard-
wood, to be used with these mortars, cost fr.om 2s. upwards,
according to size.
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HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Preserving Pans. — Jams, jellies, marmalades and preserves are made
in these utensils, which should be kept scrupulously clean, and well
examined before being used. Copper preserving pans range in
size from n inches to 18 inches in diameter, in capacity from 5
quarts to 21 quarts, and in price from 14s. to 29s. Preserving pans
in enamelled cast iron are sold at from 3s. 6d. upwards, according
to size.
Vegetable Cutters. — Vegetables are cut into fanciful shapes, by means
of these little cutters. Stewed steaks and such dishes, in which vege-
tables form an important addition, are much improved in appear-
ance by having these shaped. The price of a box of assorted vegetable
cutters ranges from 2s. 3d. to 4s. 6d. Fancy cutters are sold at 2d.
to 6d. each. These cutters can be made useful in ornamenting pastry,
or cutters especially made for pastry can be had at 3d. each, or
in boxes from is. 6d. to 2s., according to make.
Vegetable Scoop. — This implement is used for cutting vegetables into
small, pea-shaped forms. It is supplied at a cost of 6d.
Cucumber Slice. — For shredding cucumbers into the thinnest possible
slices, a little machine is often used. It is made of wood, with a
steel knife running across the centre, and sold at 2s. After the
cucumber is pared it should be held upright, and worked backwards
and forwards on the knife, being borne sufficiently hard to make an
impression on the cucumber.
Paste-Board and Rolling Pin. — Paste-boards of average size, made
of well-seasoned deal, with clamped ends, are supplied at 2s. 6d. or
3s. 6d. When not in use they should be kept in a clean dry place, other-
wise they may become mildewed, and the stains thus caused are in-
delible. Rolling-pins are made in two shapes, convex, that is, taper-
ing towards each end, and perfectly straight. The shaped ones may
be very dexterously employed by a skilful cook in shaping pastry and
dough ; but novices in this branch of the culinary art should se.lect a
straight rolling-pin. Both shapes are supplied at from qd. to is.,
according to size, and the quality of the wood. The best qualities are
made from well-seasoned Indian boxwood ; a rolling pin of this de-
scription, measuring 1 8 inches in length, costs 2s. 3d.
Sieves. — Sieves, both hair and wire, are made in various sizes, but they
are inconvenient unless large enough to fit easily over large basins, into
which soup is usually sieved or strained. The hair sieves are used prin-
cipally for vegetable purees and other substances of a sufficiently fine
soft nature to allow them to be readily passed through. Some of the
fibre of meat, after being well pounded, may be rubbed through a hair
sieve, but with a considerable expenditure of time and strength, therefore
a fine wire sieve is usually selected for this purpose. A fine wire sieve
is also used in making breadcrumbs. Sieves of suitable size and mesh
for ordinary purposes may be had for 6d. to is. 2d.
Paste Jaggers. — These are used for trimming and cutting pastry.
KITCHEN UTENSILS.
i. Tart Pans. 2. PattyPans. 3. Raised Pie Mould. 4. Paste Jagger. 5. Fancy
Vegetable Cutters and Case. 6. Vegetable Scoops. 7. Paste Board and Pin. 8. Plain
Charlotte Pudding Mould. 9. Gridiron. 10. Mangle or Wringer. 11. Tin-lined
Wicker Knife Basket. 12. Coffee Canister. 13. Bread Grater.
7
E
THE KITCHEN
69
The little wheel at the end of the j agger is made to revolve, and is used
for marking pastry which has to be divided after it is baked. The
price of a j agger is from 6d. to is. 6d.
Colfee and Pepper Mills. — Patent improved mills for grinding coffee,
pepper, spice, etc., may be had to fix permanently to the wall, or
temporarily to the kitchen table or dressers. They are provided with
a regulating screw, to grind fine or coarse, as may be desired. They
are made in four sizes, and cost from 3s. to 9s. each.
Wire Dish Cover. — This is an article belonging strictly to the larder,
and is intended for covering over meat, pastry, etc., to protect it from
flies and dust. It is a most necessary addition to the larder, especially
in summer time. These covers are made in sizes ranging from 10
inches to 20 inches in length, and sold at prices rising from is. 3d. to
4s. 3d., according to size. Round plate covers in the same material
are supplied at from is. 3d. Wire meat safes, japanned, 16 in., 18 in.,
20 in., 22 in. and 24 in. square, are supplied at from 20s. Wooden
meat safes, with panels of perforated zinc, 24 in., 27 in. and 30 in.
square, are sold at from 9s. 6d.
Knife Tray, Plate Basket and Plate Carrier. — A knife tray should be
provided for keeping close at hand all knives in daily use. The wicker
tray, lined with tin, sold at 2s. qd. to 3s. 9d., according to size, is
very easily washed, and will always appear clean and in nice order,
if properly looked after. Japanned trays, equally cleanly and ser-
viceable, may be had, single, with round corners, at from 2s. to
7s. ; double, with square corners, from 2s. 6d. to 8s. Wicker
plate baskets, for spoons, forks, etc., lined with baize, are supplied in
four sizes from 2s. 6d. to 5s. each ; and wicker plate carriers for
dinner plates, unlined, at 4s., or lined with tin, 6s. The tin, if
japanned, costs 10s. 6d. A wicker basket for the reception of plates
that have been used and removed from table, with loose wicker
lining and lined with tin, is supplied in three sizes at 4s. to 6s. 6d.
Baking Dish. — Many housewives prefer for family pies and puddings
a baking dish made of tin, which may be covered with a wire grating,
so that it may be used for baking meat and potatoes, the latter being
placed in the dish and the meat on the wire grating. Seamless baking-
pans, in all forms, oblong, square, round and oval, may be had in
sizes ranging from 4 to 20 inches, at prices from sd. to 4s. each,
according to size.
Tartlet Pans. — The trimmings of pastry rolled out, laid in a tartlet pan,
and baked, form the foundation of open tarts. The pans are made in
all sizes, from 6 inches to 12 inches in length, with plain or fluted
edges, at prices ranging from 2d. to is. 6d., according to size and
shape.
Patty-pans. — These are made of tin, and used for cheese-cakes,
little tarts, mince-pies, etc. Some are fluted and some plain, and
they are manufactured in all sizes and of different shapes, both oval
70
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
and round. The price of a dozen patty-pans, in tin, ranges from 2d.
upwards, according to size and shape.
Raised Pie Mould. — The moulds in which raised pies are made open
at the side, with loose bottom plates. They are usually, though
not necessarily, oval in shape ; they are made from 6 inches to 1 1
inches in length ; and the smallest size is supplied in strong tin at 2s.
to 3s.
Border Mould. — This mould measures 7 inches in length, inches
in height ; its capacity is ill pints, and its price in copper, lined with
pure tin, 8s. Very effective designs may now be obtained in strong
tin from iod. upwards.
Coffee and Tea Canisters, etc. — Japanned tin is the metal of which
canisters for tea and coffee are composed. The flavour of the tea and
the aroma of the coffee may be preserved by keeping them in tin
canisters. The prices of these canisters, to hold from 2 oz. to 6 lb.,
range from 6d. to 3s., according to size. Among other boxes,
made in tin and japanned, for the reception of articles of daily use and
consumption may be named Seasoning Boxes, at 3s., 3s. 6d. and
4s. 6d., according to size ; Spice Boxes at 2s., 2s. 6d. and 3s., accord-
ing to size ; Sugar Boxes, square in shape, with division, in five sizes
without drawer to receive pounded sugar dropping from divisions
through perforated bottom, from 2s. qd. to 9s. 6d. ; or in three sizes with
drawers, from 6s. 6d. to 10s. Round Sugar Canisters, holding from
1 lb. to 6 lb., are sold at from 8d. to 4s. 6d., according to size ; and
Flour Bins, bright tin inside and japanned blue with black hoops
outside, ranging in capacity from 1 gallon to 3 bushels, are supplied
at from 3s. 6d. to 28s., according to size.
Hot-water Dish. — In cold weather such joints as venison, a haunch,
saddle or leg of mutton should always be served on a hot-water dish,
as they are so liable to chill. This dish is arranged with a double
bottom winch is filled with very hot water just before the joint is sent
to table, and so keeps that and the gravy hot. Although an article
of this description can scarcely be ranked as a kitchen utensil, still the
utility of it is obvious. Hot-water dishes may be had, made entirely
of metal, of various sizes from 21s. upwards, or in nickel, electro-plated,
at higher prices. Hot- water plates range in price from is. 6d. upwards.
Gravy Strainer. — One of these is absolutely indispensable. One variety
is like an inverted cone with the pointed end cut off, having a handle
attached to it, and a plate perforated with very fine holes, or piece of
wire netting, at the bottom, below which is a rim on which it stands.
It is made in three sizes, with fine or coarse bottom, sold at is. 6d.,
is. qd. and 2s. each, according to size. Another kind is made in the
form of a cone ; but this, of course, will not stand by itself, terminating
as it does in a point. It is made in three sizes, with fine of coarse
netting, sold at iod. to 2s. 6d., according to size.
Egg Poacher. — When eggs are much used in a family, an egg poacher
THE KITCHEN
n
forms a desirable addition to the utensils of the kitchen. These are
made in different forms, the ordinary poacher being in the form of a
circular tin plate, with three or four depressions, to contain the eggs,
and with an upright handle rising from the centre. The plate is sup-
ported by feet, on which it stands when lowered into the saucepan.
Poachers for three eggs are sold for is. 4d. ; for four eggs at is. nd.
Cask Stand. — For beer it is desirable to have a stand by which the cask
may be raised or lowered without shaking its contents. The lever
cask stand will be found most useful for this purpose. This stand is,
perhaps, the best that has yet been produced, its action being very
simple and easy to understand. The price of stand for a 9-gallon cask
is 6s. ; for an 18-gallon cask, 8s.
Beer Tap. — The best kind of tap for home use is the brass syphon beer
tap, which requires no vent-peg, and is fitted with a protector
in front, to receive the blows of the mallet in tapping a cask. The
protector may be unscrewed to clean the syphon tube when it is in the
cask. Another improvement consists in the self-acting tube being
brought down close to the mouth of the jug, glass or vessel into which
the beer is drawn. Directions for keeping the tap in order are given
to the purchaser. This tap is sold at 3s. 6d.
The Corrugated Kettle. — The chief feature of this kettle is the fluted
form of the bottom, which not only adds considerably to its strength,
but increases the heating surface about 20 per cent., thereby causing
the water to boil in a very much shorter time than in an ordinary
flat-bottomed kettle. The peculiar form of this kettle, both as regards
the fluted bottom and dome top, renders it especially suitable for use
on gas or petroleum stoves or spirit lamps. This kettle is made in
polished steel in nine sizes, holding from 1 to 12 pints, and sold at
prices ranging from is. 6d. to 4s. 3d., according to size. It is also
made in polished copper or brass in the four smaller sizes, from 1 to
3 pints, sold at from 5s. to 7s. 6d. with ordinary handle In the five
larger sizes, holding from 4 to 12 pints, it is made in polished copper with
turned handle and spout, and sold at prices ranging from 8s. to 18s.
Coffee-pot. — When well made, coffee, perhaps, is the most delicious
and refreshing of all the infusions that are made for household use, but
the goodness of coffee very often depends on the construction of the
vessel in which it is made, and it is most desirable to use one in which
the aromatic oil of the berry developed in the process of roasting is not
driven off by boiling, on the one hand, which invariably spoils coffee,
and not made sufficiently perceptible by the endeavour to make it at
too low a temperature, which is too often the case. In one of the
Patent Coffee Cans either contingency is happily avoided by the
peculiar construction of this coffee-pot, in which the coffee, when
making, is surrounded by a jacket of boiling water, and thus kept at
such a temperature that the valuable principle in which the aroma
lies is not driven off, but gradually and continuously brought out.
72
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
thus increasing to a wonderful extent the flavour and fragrance of
the drink. By means of this utensil coffee can be made to perfection
in so short a time as two minutes, which shows how easy and rapid
the process is when performed by means of this utensil. They are
kept in various sizes, and made of various materials, and vary in price
from 5s. 6d. upwards.
Freezing Machines. — Ice is now so much used at English tables
that it has become a necessary of household economy, and
dessert ices follow summer dinners as a matter of course. Dessert
ices are, by modern invention and ingenuity, placed within the reach
of most housekeepers, and it is easy to make ices by one of the
patent freezing machines, which afford a quick, economical and
most simple method of freezing. Two ices, or an ice and an ice
pudding can be made at the same time by these machines. The
mixture to be iced is placed in the tubes or cylinders ; outside these
tubes rough ice and salt are placed, the ice being pounded, and the
salt and a little water added ; the piston is then worked up and
down. This movement produces a constant change and agitation
of the ice and salt, which is compelled to pass round and round the
ag'tator. Two stirrers are attached to the piston, and work at the
same time with it ; these “ stirrers ” go up and down inside the cylin-
ders, and stir up and mix the cream or water mixture undergoing the
freezing process. This agitation of the cream, etc., is necessary to
prevent the future ice from being lumpy and snowy. When the
freezing is complete the stirrers are taken out of the cylinders, and the
ice pressed down firmly by a presser ; this moulds it to the form of
the cylinder. It is set by keeping it still in the machine for a short
time longer, still working the piston up and down ; it is then turned
out, beautifully iced and moulded. The same ice and salt which
freezes the dessert ices will afterwards freeze a block of pure water
ice, or may be used to cool wine.
These freezing machines are made in oak, and are supplied in
three sizes, Nos. 1, 2 and 3, to freeze and mould 1, 2 and 3 pints re-
spectively, at £2 ios., £3 5s., and £3 15s. These are to be used
with ice and salt only.
Refrigerators are very necessary in a household, as they ensure both
comfort and economy, and, indeed, promote good health in the summer.
They consist essentially of cupboards or chests, lined with zinc, and kept
cool by ice. The ice receptacle, however, should have no connexion
with the storage part, as the food should be kept in a cold, dry atmo-
sphere. A properly-made refrigerator consists of a wood cupboard or
chest, lined inside with zinc, and having a tight fitting door ; between
the zinc lining and wood casing there should be a layer of insulating
material, such as thick felt (the cheapest), or better, asbestos, or its
artificial substitute, slag-wool. This insulating layer prevents loss by
too rapid dissipation of the cold by contact with the hotter outside
HOUSEHOLD UTENSILS,
i. Bread Cutter. 2. Coffee Roaster. 3. Carpet Sweeper. 4. Wringer and Mangle.
5. Knife Cleaner. 6. Spice Box.
THE KITCHEN
73
air. The ice chamber should also be lined with zinc, and be placed
at the top or back of the chest, a waste pipe being provided for draining
away the water, which may be stored in another zinc receptacle under
the chest, and used as an ice bath for bottles of liquors, etc. Ice
quickly melts if surrounded by water or air, therefore keep the ice chest
closed and well drained. If you have a piece of ice but no proper
receptacle for it, you may keep it for a long time even in summer if
you wrap it in a blanket and place it in a dark, dry place. Unless
you are quite sure of the purity of ice, never mix it with food or bever-
ages ; cool down to the required temperature by surrounding the
vessels in which the food or beverage is contained with a mixture of
pounded ice and salt. An ice closet, or refrigerator, should not be kept
in a kitchen ; place it in the larder, at all events well away from the
direct sunlight ; choose the darkest corner. The interior should be
kept scrupulously clean.
Filters. — Absolutely pure water is not to be found in nature, for
even rain (natural distillation, resulting from condensation following on
evaporation of sea, lake, river and soil surface water by the sun-rays)
absorbs gases and dust as it descends through the various atmospheric
strata. Lake, river and spring waters contain gases, earthy salts and
organic matter. The salts are not to be feared unless present in large
quantities, but the presence of organic matter, if not always dangerous,
should give rise to suspicion. .Organic matter in water is usually the
result of decomposition, and whether of vegetable or animal origin is
nearly always unwholesome; but too often such organic matter may
comprise chemical poison,s or the so-called poison secreting specific,
or pathogenic, microbes. To get rid of superfluous earthy salts (more
especially lime and magnesia) and organic matter, various methods of
purification are adopted. Water supplied to towns by companies or
municipalities is usually filtered through extensive and deep beds of
sand gravel and other materials. Sometimes the water is first run into
tanks, chemicals added, and the superabundant lime allowed to deposit
before the water is run on the filters. Domestic filters are constructed
on much the same principle, the water being made to pass through
layers of sand, charcoal, spongy iron, porous earthenware or patent
compositions. Charcoal and iron are believed to have a chemical as
well as a mechanical influence, as they absorb oxygen and part with
it, and also absorb deleterious gases. The varieties and styles of fillers
differ so widely that it is almost impossible to give prices. A domestic
filter may be made by thoroughly charring the inside of an oaken cask
(this is best done by burning spirits of wine in it), then placing curved
porous tiles at the bottom, covering this with a layer of carefully
cleansed gravel, upon the top of which should be a finer gravel,
and finally sand or coarsely ground charcoal. The danger of all
filters is that they soon get foul if constantly used, and then
water passed through them is only contaminated. There arq
74
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
tubes composed of siliceous infusorial earths, which are very
compact, but allow water introduced into them slowly to percolate.
The only way to obtain absolutely pure water is to use a still, in which
water is evaporated by heat, and the steam being caught and con-
densed by cold is obtained in the form of liquid water. But this water
is of a “ dead ” character, having no oxygen, and if exposed to the air
quickly absorbs atmospheric gases and dust. For practical purposes,
if water has to be purified, the best plan is to boil it. This not only
destroys living germs and their spores, but splits up organic matter
and causes the earthy salts to be deposited in the form of slime or
“ fur.” The kettle has the advantage of being available both for home
and outdoor use — for instance on country excursions, when very often
water of doubtful character is alone to be procured.
Washing and Wringing Machines. — In large establishments where there
is a laundry these do not enter into “ The Arrangement and Economy
of the Kitchen,” but in smaller ones they often of necessity form part
of the furniture. The price of a small one is from 20s to 90s.
Washing machines are daily becoming more general in private families,
and needless to say washing at home, if practicable, is a great economy.
Fireproof Earthenware Cooking Appliances and Casserole Pots are benefits
which we owe to Continental chefs. For many purposes they are not to be
surpassed. They are light, cleanly, impart no flavour to the most delicate
of viands, quick in use, and may, for the most part, be sent up to table
with their contents direct from the kitchener. Among other purposes
fireproof earthenware vessels are excellent for cooking “ oeufs sur le
plat,” or fried eggs, scrambled eggs, stewed and baked tomatoes,
joints of meat “ au daube,” that is, stewed with rich gravy and vege-
tables. These are all dishes which would be spoilt in colour and
flavour if iron saucepans were used. Moreover, as this ware is
decidedly ornamental, they only require to be taken from the oven
or hot plate, placed on a dish and sent to the dining-room.
Enamelled Ware is now much used, both for cooking and other kitchen
utensils. As a rule these consist of rather thin sheets of steel, or iron,
stamped out into different shapes, and then coated inside and out with
fireproof enamel ; the coat used for the outside generally being blue,
and that for the inside white. The advantages of enamelled ware are
that it is clean, acid-proof and does not injure the colour or flavour of any
article cooked and placed within it. Vessels of this ware are especially
useful for making sauces, boiling milk, farinaceous puddings and stew-
ing fruit. These utensils are also easily cleaned. But it is necessary to
buy good quality articles, as in the cheaper classes the enamel is often
thin, inferior and contaminated with arsenic. Inferior enamel is apt to
chip, and this is dangerous, as the particles are as sharp as glass and
capable of causing serious digestive troubles. Moreover, if the enamel
is chipped or badly cracked, all the advantages of enamelling are
neutralized, as the foods come into direct contact with the metal, and
KITCHEN UTENSILS
r. Chafing Dish Pan. 2. Chafing Dish Stand and Lamp. 3. Double Boiler of Chafing
Dish 4 Jelly Mould. 5. Meat Slice. 6. Whisk. 7* Chafing Dish complete. 8. Colander.
9. Dutch Oven. 10. Spice Box.
THE KITCHEN
75
further act on the under part of the enamel. This ware should always
be properly seasoned before use. Fill to the brim with boiling
water, add a good allowance of soda and allow to get cool, then wash
thoroughly in very hot soap suds. Enamelled metal ware should never
be placed in the oven or on a stove, unless it contains a liquid or some
fat, otherwise the enamel will crack.
Aluminium is a metal existing largely in clay. It is only within
recent years that it has been able to be extracted economically and in
sufficient quantities for commercial purposes. Its chief character-
istics are its extreme lightness, its resistance to the action of most
acids and atmospheric influences, and the ease with which it forms
most useful alloys. In its natural condition it is of a dullish silver hue.
Aluminium cooking and kitchen utensils are now either stamped out
of sheet metal or moulded. Their extreme lightness makes stewpans,
frying-pans and bain-maries of this metal most handy in the kitchen,
and the fact that the juices of vegetables and fruits, etc., do not act
upon it, gives aluminium a considerable advantage over copper. The
metal heats quickly and retains its heat for a long time. It requires
some care in cleaning. As yet aluminium kitchen ware is somewhat
expensive, but when its merits are more widely recognized, and it comes
into more general use, prices are likely to fall.
The Chafing Dish is a very ancient utensil, much used by our ancestors
and then gradually neglected. But it has come into fashion again,
largely through a revival of its use in America. The chafing dish is
a deep metal pan, with sloping sides, and provided with a domed
cover, which fits in the circular rim of a metal tripod. On the stand
of the tripod beneath the dish a spirit lamp is placed. In some in-
stances the dish is heated by electricity. As a rule these articles are
highly ornamental, and are meant to be used on the table or sideboard ;
they are usually brought into requisition at breakfast, luncheon and
supper, and are undoubtedly most serviceable in households where
only a few servants are kept, as by their aid dainty little dishes such as
fried or scrambled eggs, omelettes, stewed kidneys, broiled tomatoes,
welch rarebit or cheese fondu, and similar preparations can be speedily
prepared a,t the early morning meal, or at a late supper “ after the
theatre.” For dwellers in flats the chafing dish is almost indispensable.
Complete List of Domestic Utensils. — Here we must bring our notices
of utensils that find a place in most kitchens to a close, omitting
many articles of less importance not likely to be called so frequently
into use. Everything necessary for a family, whether large or small,
is included in the following complete specifications of domestic utensils,
which will show at a glance the articles required for the kitchens of
families, ranging from those for whom a small cottage affords sufficient
accommodation to those who have an income large enough to warrant
the occupation of a mansion. For a mansion, whose many guests are
ever coming and going, and where a large number of domestics are kept,
7 6
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
a great number of articles will be required, and these are set forth in
specification No. I. In specification No. II everything is included that
is necessary for culinary operations in a family whose head is possessed
of ample means. Specification No. Ill includes those articles which
should be found in comparatively small houses ; whilst in specification
No. IV such things only are enumerated as are indispensable to a family
possessed of a small income, and moving in a comparatively humble
sphere of life.
Specifications and Estimates for Outfit of Kitchens. — The following specifi-
cations and estimates, it may be said, have been carefully prepared.
They are exclusive of tinnery and brushes. Each specification is
complete in itself, and any of the articles mentioned may be had singly
at the same prices.
SPECIFICATION No. I.
This Specification is
complete
and
suitable joy any Mansion.
£
S.
d.
£
s.
d.
8 Copper Stewpans, assorted
Brought forward .
48
18
3
sizes
5
12
6
I
Cast-steel Cleaver .
O
5
6
I
Copper Stock Pot, io galls.,
I
Set Skewers, gd-.is., is. 6d.
O
3
3
with tap and Drainer .
5
18
6
I
Case Larding Needles .
O
2
6
I
Copper Bain marie, ii vessels
7
7
0
I
Daubing Needle
O
I
6
2
Copper Saute or Cutlet
3
Cooks’ Knives ....
O
9
6
Pans
I
7
6
I
Cooks’ Bone Knife .
O
5
6
I
Copper Braizing Pan with
2
Root Knives, is. .
0
2
O
Fire Cover, 18 in.
4
4
O
2
Steel Dish-up Forks with
I
Copper Egg Bowl .
O
18
6
Guard
O
3
6
I
Copper Sugar Boiler
O
15
O
I
Salamander and Stand
O
9
6
I
Copper Preserving Pan
I
16
O
I
Pair Steak Tongs .
O
3
6
2
Copper J elly Moulds .
I
I
6
I
Toasting Fork
O
I
6
2
Copper Charlotte Moulds,
I
Fluted Bar Gridiron .
O
3
6
2 pt., 3s. 6d., 2-f, 4s. 6d.
O
8
O
I
Hanging Gridiron .
O
3
6
E 2
Copper Dariol Moulds, 2 in.
O
9
6
I
Oval Iron Fry Pan
O
2
6
12
Copper Fancy Entree Cups,
6
Tinned Iron Saucepans .
O
13
6
assorted
O
12
O
2
Ditto, with steamer, 6 qt.,
2.
Copper Conical Gravy
5s. ; 8 qt., 6s. 6d.
O
II
6
Strainers
O
1 7
6
I
Best Wrought-iron Tea
I
Copper Soup Ladle
O
4
6
Kettle
O
IO
6
2
Copper D Slices
O
IO
O
I
Copper-Bottom Tin-Body
2
Copper Dish-up Spoons
O.
IO
O.
Range Kettle
0
2
6
I
Copper Dish - up, perfor-
I
6 gal. Oval Wrought-steel
ated
O
4
6
Boiling Pot
I
IO
O
%
Copper Omelette Pans;
O
15
9
2
Strong Wire Fry Baskets,
2
Copper Baking Plates .
I
2
6
2S. 6d., 3s. 6d. .
O
6
0
*
Oval Wrought iron Fat Pan
I
Strong Tin Fish Kettle,
and Drainer ....
O
19
6
Copper Bottom
O
IO
6
Oblong Wrought-steel Drip-
I
Strong Tin Turbot Kettle,
ping Pan with Well, on
Copper Bottom
I
5
O
iron legs ....
2
8
6
I
Marble Slab for Pastry
O
IO
6
I
Basting Ladle for ditto
O
IO
6
I
Box Pastry Cutters, each
2
Large Wood Meat Screens
Round and Fluted .
O
5
0
with Hot Closet
9
12
6
I
Box Assorted Fancy Cutters
O
2
0
I
Steel Cutlet Bat
O
4
6
I
Paste J agger ....
O
I
0
I
Cast-steel Meat Saw
O
4
6
I
B ox Veget able Cut t ers .
O
3
6
I
Cast-steel Cutlet Saw .
O
3
6
I
Salad Basket (Wire)
O
3
6
Carried forward . . £48
18
3
Carried forward . . .£58
IO
6
THE KITCHEN
77
SPECIFICATION No. I. ( continued ).
Brought forward
Patent Bread Grater .
Assorted Iron Spoons
Block Tin Soup Ladle
Flour and Sugar Dredge .
Pepper Boxes, 4d. each
Potato Masher
Steel Vegetable Scoops,
wood handles
Tin Funnels ....
Raised Pie Mould .
Dozen Tartlette Tins .
Dozen Round Pattypans,
fluted
Bread Rasp
Palette Knife ....
Wire Egg Whisks, strong,
is. 3d., is. 9d. .
Refrigerator ....
Pewter Ice Pot, with Cover
Pail for ditto. Oak .
Spatula
Pewter Ice Pudding Moulds
ios. 6d., 15s.
Pewter Ice Dessert Moulds
Marble Mortar, 14 in. .
Lignum Vitae Pestle for
do
Best “ Quality ” Knife
Machine on high stand,
clean 4 knives and car-
ver
L s. d.
58 10 6
o o 10
o 18
o 15
2 o
2 6
3 o
5 o
I o
7 6
4 6
5 6
6
o
046
3 17 6
Brought forward . .
1 Spice Box, Block Tin .
1 Seasoning Box
1 Mincing Machine, Vitrified
Enamel
1 Set Registered Scales and
Weights, to weigh 28 lb.
12 Tinned Meat Hooks .
2 Corkscrews ....
2 Tin Openers ....
3 Galvanized Pails, is. 6d. .
1 Coal Hod, Zinc lined .
1 Kitchen Fender
1 Set Kitchen Fire Irons
1 Tin Coffee Pot, 3s. 6d., 1
Tin Tea Pot, 3s. 6d.
1 Coffee Mill, Steel
3 Japanned Tra}'s, Strong .
1 Lemon Squeezer
1 Jelly Bag and Stand .
1 Set Tea, Coffee, and Sugar
Canisters ....
4 Hair Sieves, best .
2 Brass Wire Sieves .
1 Flour Kit
1 Rolling Pin, hard wood
1 Set Stove Brushes
1 Set Shoe Brushes .
1 Hair Broom and handle .
1 Bass or Yard Broom and
handle
3 Scrubbing Brushes
£ s.
74 4
o 10
o 4
O I
o 4
o 4
O 12
o 6
o 7
o 16
o 7
0 I
0 10
1 I
O II
o 7
o 5
o I
o 3
o 6
Carried forward
•£74 4 6
Total
.£84 8
d.
6
6
6
o
6
o
6
6
6
6
6
6
o
6
6
3
6
o
6
o
6
6
6
6
6
6
6
9
SPECIFICATION No. II.
Suitable for Good Class Houses.
6 Copper Stewpans, assorted
Brought forward .
sizes
5
10
0
I
Only Copper Omelette Pan
I
Copper Stock Pot, 4 galls..
I
Copper D Slice
with tap and drainer .
3
5
0
I
Oval Wrought-iron Fat
I
Copper Saute Pan .
0
10
6
Pan and Drainer
I
Copper Sugar Boiler
0
10
6
I
Wrought-iron Dripping
I
Copper Egg Bowl .
0
15
0
Pan with Well and on
I
Copper Preserving Pan
1
4
0
Iron legs . . . .
2
Copper J elly Moulds
0
17
6
I
Wrought Ladle for ditto .
I
Dozen Copper Dariol
I
Wooden Meat Screen, cir-
Moulds
0
9
6
cular corners and Hot
1
Dozen Copper Fancy Entree
Closet
Cups
0
6
0
I
Brass Bottle J ack and
I
Only Copper Charlotte
Crane complete .
Mould, 2 pt. ...
0
3
6
I
Cutlet Bat
I
Only Copper Conical Gravy
I
Meat Saw
Strainer
0
8
9
I
Cutlet Saw ....
£ s. d.
14 o 3
076
050
o 15 o
226
086
476
o 14 6
046
046
036
Carried forward
■£14 o 3
Carried forward
■£23 13 3
78
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
12 Assorted Iron Spoons
Box Vegetable Cutters
Strong Tin Soup Ladle
Fish Slice ....
Egg Slice ....
Vegetable Scoops .
each Flour and Sugar
Dredge, is. 3d. .
Tin Funnels
12 Tartlette Pans .
Carried forward
s', d.
13 3
1 9
2 6
6
6
6
o
6
6
6
o
6
£
Brought forward ... 23
1 Set Skewers, each 9d., is. o
1 Case Larding Needles . o
1 Daubing Needle o
2 Cooks’ Knives . ... o
1 Cooks’ Bone Knife . . . o
2 Root Knives, is. o
2 Dish-up Forks with Guard o
1 Salamander and Stand . o
1 Pair Steak Tongs . . . o
1 Toast Fork o
1 Fluted Bar Gridiron . . o
1 Strong Wire Hanging Grid-
iron o
1 Oval Iron Fry Pan . . o
4 Iron Saucepans, assorted . o
1 2 gall, ditto, with steamer o
1 Cast-iron Oval Boiling Pot o
1 Oval Wrought-iron Tea
Kettle o
1 Copper-bottom, Tin-body
Well Kettle . . . .056
1 Strong Tin Colander ..039
1 Strong Tin Fish Kettle,
Copper Bottom . . .086
1 Strong Fish Kettle, Tin
Bottom o 4 11
1 Box Paste Cutters, Round 020
1 Box Paste Cutters. Fluted 020
1 Box Fancy Cutters ..020
1 Paste J agger
1 I apanned Spice Box
1 Seasoning Box
1 Bread Grater
£
30
3 b
2 3
9 o
6 o
7 6
8 6
3 11
2 6
5 6
2 9
1 6
1 6
1 o
s. d.
7 o
o 8
2
■£30 7 o
Brought forward .
24 Patty Pans fluted o
1 Bread Rasp o
1 Strong Wire Egg Whisk o
1 Refrigerator .... 4
1 Pewter Freezing Pot . . o
1 Oak Pail for ditto . . . o
1 Spatula o
1 Pewter Ice Pudding Mould o
6 Pewter Ice Dessert Moulds o
1 Marble Mortar o
1 Lignum Vitae Pestle . . o
1 Set Best Scales and Weights
141b. o 18 6
1 Knife Machine on High
Stand, 3 knives and carver 2 15 6
1 Mincing Machine . . .0150
3 Hair Sieves . . . .076
1 Brass Wire Sieve . . .036
1 2 Meat Hooks
1 Jelly Bag and Stand ..086
2 Corkscrews .
1 Coffee Mill, Steel
1 Kitchen Fender
1 Set Kitchen Irons
1 Zinc-lined Coal Hod
1 Tin Coffee Pot
1 Tin Tea Pot
2 J apanned Trays, Strong . o
1 Lemon Squeezer o
2 Tin Openers
2 Galvanized Pails
1 Set Tea, Coffee, and Sugar
Canisters
1 Flour Kit.
1 Rolling Pin, hardwood
1 Paste Board, hardwood
1 Set Stove Brushes
1 Set Shoe Brushes .
1 Hair Broom and Handle .
1 Bass or Yard Broom and
Handle
3 Scrubbing Brushes
1 Meat Chopper ....
Total . . £48 6 3
6
6
6
6
6
6
3 o
1 3
1 o
3 o
17 6
4 6
1 6
4 6
2 11
5 6
3 11
2 6
3 9
4 6
SPECIFICATION No. III.
Suitable for Middle-Class Houses:
Sanitary Steel Saucepans,
assorted
Sanitary Steel Stock Pot,
3 galls o
Tinned Iron Saucepans . o
10 pt. ditto, with steamer o
Carried forward . . .£2
£ s. d.
0160
Brought forward
1 Oval Boiling Pot, 3 galls.
1 Preserving Pan, Copper
3 1 Sanitary Steel Saute Pan .
6 1 Sanitary Steel Omelette
o Pan
4
16
3
Carried forward
■£3 9 6
to ts
THE KITCHEN
79
SPECIFICATION
£ s-
Brought forward ... 3 9
1 Brass Bottle Jack and
Crane 08
1 Jack Screen . . . . o 12
1 Block Tin Fish Kettle . o 5
1 Mincing Machine ...09
1 Knife Machine, to clean 3
knives and c arvers ..15
2 Cooks’ Knives ....04
1 Dish-up Fork with Guard . o 1
1 Game Oven ....03
1 Fluted Hanging Gridiron . o 2
1 Strong Wire Hanging Grid-
iron 02
1 Set Best Scales and Weights
14 lb. 09
1 Meat Saw 02
1 Meat Chopper ....02
1 Iron Frying Pan ...02
1 Iron Kettle ....04
1 Tin Kettle, Copper Bottom o 3
1 Double Oven Pan ..04
2 Cake Tins 01
2 Tin Moulds ....02
2 Tin Dariol Moulds ..01
1 Box Plain and Fluted
Pastry Cutters . . .03
1 Colander 02
4 Patty Pans, plain ..00
1 Fish Slice 01
1 Egg Slice 01
1 Set Skewers, 6d., qd. ..01
1 Wire Toast Fork . . .00
1 Vegetable Scoop ...01
1 Vegetable Cutter ...01
1 Root Knife . . . .00
1 Sugar Dredge ....01
1 Flour Dredge ....00
1 Tin Funnel ....00
2 Gravy Strainers, flat and
conical 02
d.
6
6
6
11
6
6
6
9
6
6
o
6
11
6
o
6
3
6
o
9
6
o
6
6
o
o
3
6
o
o
9
5
9
6
4
Carried forward . . .£ 9 17 5
No. III. (continued).
Brought forward .
1 Wire Egg Whisk
1 Tin Opener ....
1 Corkscrew ....
1 Lemon Squeezer
1 Composition Mortar and
Pestle
1 Wire Fry Basket
1 Fish Frying Pan with Wire
Drainer
1 Spice Box
6 Iron Spoons, assorted .
6 Wood Spoons ....
1 Hair Sieve
1 Tinned Wire Sieve
1 Baking Plate, oblong
1 Dust Pan ....
1 Flour Bin, Japanned
2 Each Tea, Coffee and Sugar
Canisters ....
1 Potato Masher
1 Gallon Pail ....
1 Gallon Oval Wash-up Pan
1 Paste Board ....
1 Rolling Pin ....
2 Wire Dish Covers, is. 6d.,
3 Enamelled Pie Dishes
3 Enamelled Pudding Basins
1 Enamelled Water Ewer,
8 pint
1 Kitchen Fender
1 Set Kitchen Fire Irons
1 Coal Hod
1 Set Stove Brushes
1 Set Shoe Brushes .
1 Hair Broom and Handle .
1 Bass or Yard Broom
3 Scrubbing Brushes
£ s- d.
9 1 7 5
010
006
009
o 1 t>
0 3 3
020
0311
026
016
010
020
026
O III
0 12
O49
OgO
OIO
Ol6
030
026
0 0 9
036
0 2 6
0 2 0
0 2 6
066
o 3 3
o 2 9
o 2 9
04^
o 3 o
020
030
Total . . £14 3 2
SPECIFICATION No. IV.
Suitable for very small Houses.
£
s.
d.
£
s.
d.
3
Tinned Iron Saucepans .
O
6
0
Brought forward
1
4
0
6
1
Tinned ditto, with steamer
O
3
6
1 Yorkshire Pudding
rin . 0
3
1
Tinned Oval Boiling Pot,
2 Cake Tins .
. . 0
0
9
3 galls
O
4
9
1 Mould
0
1
4
2
Enamelled Steel Saucepans
0
0
12 PattyPans.
0
0
4
9
1
Iron Kettle ....
0
3
fy
3 Cutters
0
0
1
Tin Kettle ....
0
1
9
1 Fish Kettle
0
4
6
1
Frying Pan, iron .
0
1
9
1 Tin Colander
0
1
6
1
Baking Pan ....
0
1
3
3 Iron Spoons
0
0
9
Carried forward .
£1
4
6
Carried forward .
• • £1
15
1
/
/
/
/
/
8o
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
SPECIFICATION No. IV. ( continued ).
£
s. d.
£
s.
d.
Brought forward
1
15 1
Brought forward
3
A
9 i
I
Root Knife . . . .
0
0 6
I
Enamelled J ug, 3 pint
O
O
I I
I
Flour Dredge
0
1 0
I
Enamelled Preserving Pan
O
5
6
I
Pepper Box . . . .
0
0 4
I
Patent Steamer Cooker, 4
2
Cooks’ Knives
0
2 6
vessels
0
10
4
I
Hanging Wire Gridiron .
0
1 6
I
Pestle and Mortar
0
2
1 1
I
Fish Slice . . . .
0
0 9
I
Lemon Squeezer
0
O
9
I
Egg Slice
0
0 9
I
Bread Grater
0
O
7
I
Set Skewers ....
0
0 6
I
Coffee Pot ....
0
I
6
I
Vegetable Scoop
0
0 10
I
Tea Pot
0
I
6
I
Baking Sheet
0
1 6
I
Gallon Pail ....
0
I
O
I
Cooks’ Fork . . . .
0
1 0
I
Galvanized Oval Washing-
I
Fry Basket . . . .
0
1 6
up Pan
0
2
2
I
Gravy Strainer
0
1 0
I
Spring Balance Family
I
Hair Sieve . . . .
0
1 0
Scales, 20 lb.
0
4
II
I
Wire Sieve ....
0
1 3
I
Knife Machine, “ Servants
I
Funnel
0
0 4
Friend ” ....
0
13
3
I
Corkscrew ....
0
0 6
I
Mincing Machine .
0
4
8
I
Spice Box ....
0
i 6
I
Coffee Mill ....
0
3
6
I
Tin Opener ....
0
0 4
I
Set Stove Brushes
0
I
nl
I
Tea, Coffee, and Sugar
I
Set Boot Brushes
0
3
6
Canister ....
0
4 6
I
Hair Broom and Handle
0
2
6
I
Flour Bin, J apanned
0
3 2
I
Bass or Yard Broom and
I
Potato Masher
0
O lol
Handle ....
0
I
6
2
Enamelled Pie Dishes
0
i 6
2
Scrubbing Brushes
0
2
O
3
Enamelled Pudding Basin'
0
1 1
Carried forward .
£3
4 9^
Total . .
£6
9
9
Turnery and Brushes, etc.—
-To render the information given
here
as
complete as possible, lists are appended : (i) of the various articles
usually comprehended under the general term “ Turnery,” with
brushes ; and (2) of numerous sundries of which it is always desirab’e
to know the price. As it is impossible to give prices where many sizes
of the same article are on sale, the minimum only has been stated,
preceded by the word “ from.”
TURNERY (Best London Make) and BRUSHES.
Batter Prints . . from
Batter Prints, in Case ,,
Knife Trays, Mahogany ,,
Knife Trays, Oak . ,,
Knife Trays, Wicker ,,
Knife Trays, Japan-
ned, Single . „
Knife Trays, Japan-
ned, Double. . .,
Plate Baskets, Wicker „
Meat Safes, Wooden,
Zinc Panels . . ,,
Meat Safes, J apanned
Wire ... ,,
Jelly Bags ... ,,
Jelly Bags, Wood
Stand for . . each
£ s. d.
006
o o q
0 3 9
026
046
020
056
026
o 17 6
100
030
046
Brought forward .
Plate Racks . . from
Housemaid’s Box, Deal ,,
Decanter Drainers . . ,,
Linen Press ....,,
Washing Trays
Clothes-horse ,,
Wicker Plate Carriers . ,,
Cask Stand, Patent .
Beer Taps ....,,
Stands for Trays—
Unpolished ....
Polished ....
Best Boxwood Chums from
Butter Knives . . . ,,
Butter Hands . . . „
Salt Box
£ s. d.
370
080
029
020
1100
050
026
080
076
026
096
0 13 o
1 5 o
030
013
019
Carried forward .
£370 Carried forward . . • £9 § 0
THE KITCHEN
81
TURNERY and BRUSHES (continued).
Brought forward .
Butlers’ Aprons . . from
Chamois Leather . ,,
Flour Tubs . . .
F'lour Tubs, Barrel Shape ,,
Oak Tubs, Round . ,,
Oak Tubs, Oval . . „
Elm Bowls • „
House Pails, Wood . ,,
Chopping "Board . . ,,
Door Scrapers, with
Brushes . . „
Curtain or Bed Brooms ,,
Telescope ditto . . „
£ s. d.
980
056
010
040
026
026
040
016
040
016
o 12 ir
020
0 5 3
Brought forward .
Hand Brooms . . . from
Carpet Whisks ... ,,
Hand Brushes ... ,,
Hearth Brushes . . „
Banister Brushes, Single „ -
Do. Double . . ,,
Banister Stair Carpet . ,,
Shoe Brushes, per set of 3 ,,
Boxes for Stove Brushes each
Stove Brushes . . from
Plate Brushes . . „
Oil Brushes . . . each
Dish Brushes . . from
t »- «•
11 14 8
030
020
019
0 2 9,
010
039
019
046
019
016
0 10
006
026
Carried forward
.£11 14
Total . . £13 2 5
SUNDRIES.
Bone Spoons . . from
Bottle Baskets . . „
Black Lead, Best . per lb.
Bellows, Kitchen . from
Bellows, fancy pattern ,,
Bread Platters . . ,,
Bread Knives . . „
Butter Dishes, Carved ,,
Beetle Traps . . ,,
Butlers’ Aprons, Green
Baize ... „
Butlers’ Apron, Red
Leather . . „
Buff Leather Knife-
boards ... ,,
Bass Brooms . . ,,
Bottle Brushes . . ,,
Crumb Brushes . . ,,
Cinder Sieves . . ,,
Cucumber Slicers . ,,
Closet Brushes . . ,,
Dinner Mats, set of 8 ,,
Drinking Horns . . „
Drum Sieves . . ,,
Door Mats ... . „
Dusting Brushes. . ,,
Egg Timers ... „
Emery Powder . . per pkt.
Flue Brushes . . from
Furniture do. . . „
Feather Dusters . . „
Do. with jointed pole „
Glaze Brushes . . „
Llousemaids’ Gloves. ,,
House Flannels . . per yd.
Hat Brushes . . from
Hair Sieves ... ,,
Hair Sieves, double
bottoms . . ,,
£ s. d.
002
080
008
019
040
040
026
010
010
056
090
043
016
006
020
019
030
026
089
019
1 1 o
036
010
006
006'
016
018
019
028
016
008
008
013
o 0 10
0 2 0
Brought forward .
House Steps . . . from
Knife Boards . . ,,
Knife Polish ... „
Kneeling Mats . . ,,
Leather, Chamois . ,,
Lemon Squeezers . ,,
Lemon Corers . . „
Lawn Sieves ... ,,
Library Brushes'. . ,,
Marrow Scoops, Ivory „
Mallets .... „
Mops
Mops for J ugs . . „
Mouse-Traps . . ,,
Nail Brushes . . ,,
Napkin Rings, Bone
or Ivory . . ,,
Paste Brushes . . ,,
Paste Boards . . ,,
Polishing Paste . . per box
Putty Powder . . per pkt.
Rolling Pins . . . from
Sieves (Hair, Wire, etc.) ,,
Sponges .... „
Soap Boxes ... ,,
Sink Brushes
Scrubbing do. . . „
Sweeping Machines . „
Salad Spoons and Forks „
Sweeps’ Brushes . . ,,
Towel Rollers . . „
Turks’ Heads with
jointed Poles
Urn Powder . . per box
Vegetable Pressers . from
Velvet Brushes . . ,,
Wooden Spoons . . ,,
£ s. d.
5 4 7
036
013
006
010
010
013
008
019
016
020
009
010
003
006
006
010
010
026
000
005
006
007
006
003
006
006
o 10 6
006
007
010
0 3 9
010
006
016
002
Carried forward
•£04 7
Total ,
• -£799
MARKETING
CHAPTER V
A Guide for Choosing and Buying Provisions and Home
Requisites. With full Information about the Prices
and Seasons of Fish, Meat, Poultry, Game, Dairy
Produce, Vegetables, Fruit, Tinned Meats,
Groceries, Wines, Spirits, etc.
That these lists may be of real service, neither time nor care has been
spared to render them a$ complete and reliable as possible. They show
not only the prices and seasons of all provisions, but when they can be
bought at their cheapest and best, points to be studied by all house-
hold managers, particularly those who have to provide for large
families.
With regard to fish, meat, poultry, game, dairy produce, vegetables
and fruit, the prices have been obtained from the principal provincial
towns as well as from different parts of London, so as to arrive at the
average cost.
In the case of tinned provisions, groceries, etc., they are quoted from
various sources, and at the present reduced scale of charges generally
adopted by tradesmen and stores throughout the Kingdom.
MEAT
Except in the case of early lamb, whicn is always expensive (unless
the excellent New Zealand lamb is used), the price of meat varies but
little with the season. Lamb and veal are in full season during spring
and summer, and are generally preferred in the hot weather to beef
and mutton, which are not then considered so good.
MARKETING GUIDE $ BULLOCK
Sirloin. 2. Rump. 3. Aitchbone. 4. Buttock. 5. Lea;. 6. Flank. 7. Thin Flank. 8. Brisket. 9. Prime
10. Middle Rib. n. Chuck and Leg-of-Mutton Piece. 12. Neck. 13. Head. 14. Clod. 15. Shin.
MARKETING
«3
BEEF.
Part.
In Season.
Best.
Average Price.
English. American.
Aitchbone
All the year
During Winter
6 \d. per lb.
5 id. per lb.
Baron
, ,
,,
9 d.
—
Brisket
,,
Si d.
4 id. ..
Buttock .
,,
10 d. ,,
zod.
Clod ....
,,
4 d.
—
Flank
,,
5 id.
4 d.
Hock
y ,
5 d.
—
Silver side
9 d.
Sd.
Neck . . .
5 d.
i¥- ■■
Ribs
Sid.
jU- to 8 Id.,,
Rump (in steaks)
is. id. ,,
ii d.
Shin ....
,,
lid.
—
Round
Ud.
7d. to 8 id.,.
Sirloin
9 d-
Sd.
Cheek
is. id. ea.
—
Heart
is. 6d. ,,
—
Kidnev .
10 d. per lb.
9 d. per lb.
Tail ....
is. 9 d. ea.
—
Tongue .
25. 6 d. ,,
j 2s. 6 d. ea.
Australian and Foreign Meat — Although it is difficult to equal, and
impossible to surpass, the best British grown beef and mutton, we have
as a nation immensely benefited by the enormous and ever-increasing
imports of meat from America, Australia and New Zealand. The
large supplies of beef which reach us from the river La Plata and else-
where have undoubtedly kept down prices, so that meat is no longer a
luxury except among the poor. Much of the beef from South and
North America reaches us alive, but it is not of this phase of the trade
that we need speak. The great development arose when it was found
that cattle an 3 sheep could be slaughtered and dressed on the other side
of the ocean, then packed close together in freezing chambers on board
ship, and so imported here. Actual freezing, many contend, injures
the quality of meat, and certainly if the meat is heated carelessly on
arrival it quickly deteriorates. As a matter of fact, however, most
meat is now “ drilled,” that is packed in chambers in which the air is
made cold, but is not suffered to reach freezing point. Moreover, it is
packed in loose-woven cloth wrappers, and on arrival in England is
removed to cold storage chambers, and gradually exposed to higher
temperature before it is put on the market. When carefully treated,
mutton and lamb are none the worse for the long chilly voyage. Beef,
however, is apt to lose somewhat of its natural firmness and elasticity ;
it therefore requires to be carefully stored, and, when cooked, should
be subjected for some m’nutes to very high temperature, which should
be subsequently lowered, otherwise the albuminous constitutents will
soon drain out in the gravy, leaving the mass of meat stringy, tasteless.
84
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
and not very nourishing. Imported killed meat cannot safely be kept
long except in winter, unless hung in a refrigerator. The housewife
who takes special pride in her roast beef, had better buy English joints,
using the imported meat for stews and “ made dishes.”
VEAL.
Part.
In Season.
Best.
Average Price.
Breast
Feb. to Nov.
In Summer.
8 d. per lb.
Cutlet
IS. 2d. ,,
Fillet . . .
IS. ,,
Knuckle
6 d. „
Loin ....
8 Id. ,,
Shoulder
8 Id. ,,
Head
5s. each.
Heart . . .
9 d. each.
Sweetbread .
from is. each.
MUTTON.
Part
In Season.
Best.
Average Price.
English. New Zeal’d.
Breast
All the year
Sept, to April.
4 d. per lb.
2| d. per lb.
Haunch .
,,
IOC?. „
—
Leg ....
,,
9 id. „
6 kb ,,
Loin ....
Old. „
5 U. „
Neck (best end) .
9 d. ,,
5-2 d-
Neck (Scrag end)
,,
6d. ,,
4 d.
Saddle
io d. ,,
6d.
Shoulder
8 d. „
6 d. ,,
Head
,,
6d. each.
—
Lleart
,,
3 d. to 4<bea.
—
Kidney .
,,
}}id. each.
i d. each.
Chops
is. per lb.
Sd. per lb.
LAMB.
Part.
In Season.
Best.
Average Price.
English. New Zeal’d.
Breast
Mar. to Sept.
May to July.
jd. per lb.
4c?. per lb.
Fore-quarter
,,
,,
9 d.
/ » t
Hind-quarter
,,
,,
ii d. ,,
8 k?. ,,
Leg ’. . . .
,,
,,
15.
9 id. ,,
Loin ....
, ,
,,
lie?. ,,
7 Id. „
Neck (best end).
,,
,,
io d. ,,
6 d. ,,
Neck (Scrag end)
,,
,,
8 d.
5 d.
Shoulder
,,
,,
IOC?. „
8 id. „
Fry (about) .
>*
•>
8 d. to is.,.
MARKETING GUIDE: BEEF.
i. Round. 2. Aitchbone. 3. Brisket. 4- Tongue. 5- Leg. 6. Ribs. 7- Sirloin.
8. Buttock: e. Topside or Buttock; f. Silverside or Round. 9. Hind-quarter :
a". Leg, b. Buttock, c. Thick Flank, t>. Aitchbone.
D *
5
MARKETING
85
PORK.
Part.
In Season.
Best.
Average Price.
Belly . . .
Sept, to April
Nov. to March
81 1. per lb.
Hand
. .
7U. „
Fore-loin
.
8 d.
Hind-loin
. .
9d.
Leg ....
, ,
8 id. „
Spare ribs
’■
8 d.
FISH.
In purchasing Fish it should be remembered that it is generally
best when in full season, and the following list will be found useful
in ascertaining when it is best and cheapest. To give a satisfac-
tory table of the prices of fish is a difficult and almost impossible task.
Many circumstances conspire to make the variations in price greater
than in the case of any other food commodity. The fact that fish is
a most perishable article of food and is usually caught while travelling
in shoals, results in alternate scarcity and over-supply of a particular
kind of fish, whilst the question whether the purchaser resides near or
far away from a seaside or big distributing town, affects the situation.
All we have been able to do is to record fluctuations in prices over a
period of years, from which the housewife must form her own judgment.
In conclusion, we would say that in no branch of marketing is personal
attention better repaid, both in quality and economy, than in the
buying of fish. The lady who markets herself will select the fish that
on the day of her visit is plentiful, consequently cheapest and often best.
Name of Fish.
I
In Season.
Best & Cheapest.
Average Price.
Bloaters .
Sept, to April
Sept, to Feb.
9 d. to is. 6d. doz.
Brill ....
All the year .
Aug. to April
6d. to is. per lb.
Cod ....
Nov. to March .
Feb. to March .
3 d. to 8d. per lb.
Crabs ....
April to October
Summer .
3c?. to 3s. each.
Eels ....
J une to March .
Sept, to Nov.
6 d. to is. per lb.
Haddocks
August to Feb. .
Winter .
3d. to is. 3d. each.
Halibut .
All the year .
Nov. to June
4-d. to iod. per lb.
Herrings .
May to January
[ une to Sept.
6 d. to is. 6d. doz.
Lobsters .
All the year .
Summer
6 d. to 3s. each.
Mackerel
Nearlyallthe year
April to July
3d. to 8d. each.
Mullet (red&grey)
All the year .
April to October
6d. to is. 2d. per lb
Oysters
Sept, to April
Winter .
6d. to 3s. per doz.
Plaice
All the year .
May to Nov.
4d. to 8d. per lb.
Prawns
May to Dec.
Mav to Nov.
is. to 25. per pint.
Salmon
Feb. to Sept.
Spring & Summer
iod. to 3s. per lb.
Shrimps .
All the vear .
April to Nov.
3d. to 6d. per pint.
Smelts
October to May .
Winter . . .
is. to 2s. 6 d. per boj
86
HOUSEHOLD MAE AGEMENT
FISH (continued).
Name of Fish.
In Season.
Best& Cheapest.
Average Price.
Soles ....
All the year .
April to July
is. to 2s. per lb.
Sprats
Nov. to March .
Nov. and Dec. .
id. to id. per lb.
Trout
Feb. to Sept. .
April to July
8c i. to 2s. per lb.
turbot
All the year .
Spring & Summer
6d. to is. 2d. per lb.
Whitebait
Jan. to Sept. .
Feb. to May
is. to 2 s. per qt
Whiting .
All the year .
Spring & Summer
2 d to 6 d. each.
POULTRY.
The cost of poultry varies considerably, being affected both by the
season of the year and the district in which it is purchased. It is well
to remember that poultry almost invariably rises in price at Christmas,
and also tends to be expensive when no game is on the market. These
considerations borne in mind, the table below will give a reliable
average of prices.
Poultry.
In Season.
1
Best & Cheapest.
Average Price.
Chickens .
Feb. to October
July to October
25. to 3s. 6 d. each.
Ducklings
Feb. to August .
May to July .
2s. 6d. to 35. 6d. ea.
Ducks
August to Feb. .
Sept, and Oct. .
35. to qs. each.
Fowls
All the year
|une to October
2s. 6^. to 3s. 6<f. each.
Geese
Sept, to Feb.
Oct. and Nov
6s. to i os. each.
Green Geese .
May to August
June . . .
6s. to i os. each.
Guinea Fowl.
Feb. to August .
Summer
3s. to 45. each.
Pigeons .
August to April
Winter .
9 d to is. each.
,, (Bordeaux)
All the year
Winter .
is. to is. 4 d.
Rabbits .
All the year
October to Feb.
6 d. to 8 d. per lb.
,, (Ostend)
All the year
October to Feb.
; id . and 8 d. per lb.
Turkevs .
Oct. to March
' Nov. to January
10s to/i each.
Wheatears
Sept, to March .
Sept, and Oct. .
is. each.
GAME.
Game varies very much in price, being generally very expensive on
the first day or two of the season, whilst on the other hand, any one
watching the market may sometimes buy it more cheaply than ordinary
poultry at any subsequent period of the season.
In this variable climate no hard and fast rule can be laid down for
the keeping of Game before it is cooked. In all cases it requires hang-
ing ; but while in winter it is safe to buy birds that have been shot
some time, in damp or warm weather no such risk should be run.
MARKETING GUIDE; SHEER
Loin (best end). 3. Loin (chump end). 4. Saddle. 5. Neck (scrag end). 6. Shoulder. 7. Breast. 8. Head.
9. Shank. 10. Trotters.
MARKETING
87
GAME ( continued ).
Game.
In Season.
Best & Cheapest.
Average Price.
Blackcock
Aug. to Nov.
Sept, and Oct. .
2s. 6d. to 35. 6d. b'e.
Ducks (wild)
Oct. to Sept.
Nov. and Dec. .
2 s. to 3s. brace.
Grouse
August to Nov .
September .
35. 6d. to 55. brace.
Hares
Sept, to March .
October .
35. 6 d. to 55. each.
Partridges
Sept, to Feb.
Oct. and Nov.
35. to 5s. brace.
Pheasants
Oct. to Feb.
Winter
6s. to 1 os. brace.
Plovers
Oct. to Feb.
Winter .
is. to is. 6d. each..
Ptarmigan
Sept, to April
September .
is. to is. 6d. each.
Quail ....
Sept, to Feb.
Sept, and Oct. .
is. to is. 6d. each
Snipes
Oct to Feb. .
Oct. and Nov.
2s. 6 d. to 3s. brace.
Teal ....
Oct. to Feb.
Winter
is. to is. 6d. each.
Venison .
Sept, to Jan.
S ept. and Oct. .
is. to 2s. per lb.
Widgeon .
Oct. to Feb. .
Oct. and Nov. .
is. to is. 6d. each.
Woodcock
Oct. to Feb. .
Oct and Nov.
3.9. 6d. to 5s. brace.
VEGETABLES
AND FRUIT.
Vegetables and fruits vary greatly in price according to the abundance
or scarcity of the supplies. Our table gives the average prices which
would have to be paid at the various seasons of an average year.
VEGETABLES.
Name.
In Season.
Best & Cheapest.
Average Price.
Artichokes
Jan. to April
February
31?. to 6 d. each.
,, Jerusalem.
Oct. to March .
December
id. to 2d. per lb.
Asparagus
Feb. to July
April and May .
2s. 6d.to 5s. period
Beans (French) .
May to November.
Summer .
31?. to is. per lb.
,, (Broad) .
July and Aug. .
August .
6d. to gd. per peck.
,, (Runners).
July to Oct. .
Aug. and Sept. .
2d. to 41?. per lb.
Beetroot .
All the year .
Autumn
id. to id. each.
Broccoli .
.
Autumn
2d. to 6 d. each.
,, Sprouts.
Nov. to May.
April
id. to 4 d. per lb.
Brussels ,,
Sept, to March.
Oct. and Nov. .
2d. to 4 d. per lb.
Cabbages
All the year .
Spring and Smr.
id. to 2d. each.
Carrots
All the year .
Early Smr & Atm
4 d. to 6 d. bunch.
Cauliflowers .
All the year.
Summer .
2d. to 6d. each.
Celery
Sept, to March.
December
id. to 4 d. per hd.
Horseradish .
All the year .
Winter .
id. to 2d. per stick
Leeks
, .
Oct. and Nov. .
id. to 6 d. bundle.
Lettuce
, ,
Summer .
id. to 4 d. each.
Onions
, .
Summer and Atm
id. to 2d. per lb.
Parsnips .
Oct. to April
Feb. and March .
id. to 2d. per lb.
Peas ....
June to Sept. .
July and Aug. .
4 d. to 2s. per pck.
Potatoes .
All the year
Autumn
Id. to id. per lb.
,, New
March to Aug. .
June and July .
id. to 8 d. per lb.
Radishes .
April to Nov. .
June to Aug.
id. to 2d. per bch.
Seakale
Nov, to May
Feb. and March .
id. to 2s. 6d. bskt.
Savoys
Nov. to March .
Dec. and Jan. .
id. to 4 d. each.
Spinach
All the year
Summer
2d. to 4 d. per lb.
Tomatoes
t f
Sept, and Oct..
zd. to 8i?. per lb.
Vegetable Marrws
)uly to Oct.
September .
11?. to 6 d. each.
'■'atercress
All the year .
Spring and Smr.
id. per bunch.
88
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
FRUIT.
Name.
In Season.
Best & Cheapest.
Average Price.
Apples
All the year .
Oct. to Dec.
2d. to 6d. per lb.
Apricots .
June to Sept. .
August .
i s.6d. to 3s.6ii.do.
Bullaces .
Autumn
October
2d. to 3 d. per lb.
Cherries .
June to Aug.
July • • •
4 d. to 8 d. per lb.
Currants .
July to Sept. .
August .
3 d. to 8 d. per lb.
Damsons .
Sept, and Oct. .
October .
id. to 4 d. per lb.
Figs ....
Gooseberries .
July to Sept.
August .
2s. to 3s. per doz.
4 d. to 8 d. per qt.
„ (Green)
May to July.
June . . .
2d. to 6 d. per qt.
Grapes (Foreign).
All the year .
Autumn .
4 d. to is. per lb.
,, (Hothouse)
Sept, to Nov. .
October .
is. and upwards.
Greengages
Aug. and Sept. .
August .
3 d. to 8 d. per lb.
Medlars
Oct. to Jan. .
Oct. and Nov. .
4 d. to 8 d. per lb.
Melons
June to Nov. .
October
9 d. to 5s. each.
Nectarines
Sept, and Oct..
October
2s. to 6s. per doz.
Oranges .
All the year .
Winter .
From 4 d. per doz.
Peaches .
Sept, and Oct. .
October
4s. to 8s. per doz.
Pears
Oct. to March .
Oct. and Nov. .
id. to 6d. each.
Plums
Aug. to Oct. .
Sept, and Oct. .
2d. to 6 d. per lb.
Quinces
Sept, and Oct. .
October .
2s. to 3s. per doz.
Rhubarb .
Jan. to May •
March and April
4 d. to 8 d. bundle.
Strawberries
June to Sept. .
July . . .
4 d. to is. per lb.
Dried Vegetables and Fruits.— We have long known such dried fruits
as raisins and currants, prunes, dates and figs, and pippins. These
useful pudding and dessert fruits are now more abundant than
ever, and as a rule prices are moderate. Within recent years other
fruits have been added to the list, and we now have dried apple
rings, apricots, etc. These apple rings and apricots reach us chiefly
from America and Australia, where they are dried in large quantities
in specially constructed ovens. They are used for pies and tarts, or may
be served stewed. Before cooking, place the required quantity of dried
fruit in a colander, and allow tepid water to run over them in order to re-
move dust. Then place in a bowl and cover with water and allow to soak.
When soft, place in an enamelled pan and stew gently, adding more water
if desired. If intended for a pie, stew for a quarter of an hour, then
place in piedish, add sugar, place crust on, and bake. If to be used
as a compote, only add the sugar a few minutes before removing from
the fire. If sugar is added too soon, it is apt to turn to caramel and
harden the fruit.
Recently vegetables in great variety have been treated by the
desiccating process, that is, cut in pieces, and exposed to a more or
less quick heat, to remove the water. The vegetables are afterwards
packed loosely or compressed. They retain their colour and flavour,
and only require soaking before being cooked. These dried vegetables
are chiefly to be recommended for use on board ship, for travellers , or
for the store cupboards of housewives. Unquestionably fresh vege-
tables are to be preferred, whenever obtainable,
MARKETING GUIDE: MUTTON.
i. Hind Quarter. 2. Breast. 3. Neck. 4. Leg. 5- Saddle. 6. Shoulder.
7. Haunch. 8. Side : a. Leg, b. Loin, c. Best End of Neck, d. Breast, e. Shoulder,
f. Scrag.
C *
2
MARKETING
89
DAIRY PRODUCE, HAM, BACON, ETC.
Dairy produce varies somewhat in price in accordance with locality,
but the differences are not so great of late years, the increased railway
facilities having brought about a greater uniformity of price.
DAIRY PRODUCE.
Article.
Average Price.
Article.
Average Price.
Butter—
Cheese ( contd .) —
Fresh ....
is. to 15. 4 d. per lb.
Gruyere .
from rod. per lb.
English, Normandv
Stilton
is. to is. 6 d. per lb.
or Brittany .
is. per lb.
Eggs—
8d. to 2s. per doz
Salt
icd. to is. 2d. lb.
Hens’
Margarine .
6 d. to 8 d. per lb.
Ducks’
rs. to 2s. ,,
Cheese —
Geese
3s. to 4s. „
American
6 d. to 8d. per lb.
Guinea Fowls’ .
is. to 2S. ,,
Cheddar
10 d. per lb.
Plovers’ .
3s. to 5s. „
Cheshire
9 Id. to is. per lb.
Turkeys’
3s. to 4s. „
Cream
3 d. to is. each.
Milk ....
4 d. per qt.
Dutch
7d. to gd. per lb.
,, Separated
2d. „
Gorgonzola .
from gd. per lb.
Cream ....
is. to 3s. per pint.
BACON, HAM, ETC.
The cheaper parts of bacon vary from 5 d. to gd. per lb., but by
reason of the quantity of bone contained in them they are not in reality
more economical than the best.
Article.
Average Price.
Article.
Average Price.
Bacon (best part).
Ham —
10 d. to is. per lb.
Ham (contd.) —
Canadian
7d to gd. per lb.
English
8 d. to is. ,,
Lard ....
7 d. to 10 d. ,,
American
7 Id. to 9 {d. „
Pickled Pork
Sausages .
8 d.
8 d. to is. ,,
PROVISIONS AND HOUSEHOLD REQUISITES.
For groceries, tinned provisions, jams, biscuits and other household
requisites, the prices quoted will be found a fair average of those
charged by the principal provision dealers and grocers in London and
the chief provincial towns.
Tinned meats, soups, fish, poultry, fruit and vegetables now occupy
an important place in our food supply, being available at any time,
and handy substitutes when fresh provisions are difficult to pro-
cure. In the respective chapters will be found recipes giving full
directions for their use.
go
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
GROCERY.
Article.
Average Price.
Article.
Average Price.
Almonds — J ordan
is. to 2 s. 6 d. per lb.
Fruit (continued) —
Greengages .
is. 4 cl. per lb.
Valencia
is. to 2S. 6 d. per lb.
Chinois
is. 4 d. per lb.
Baking powder
4 |d. per tin.
Crystallized —
Beef Essence —
Cherries .
is. 3 d. per lb.
(Brand’s;
is. 3 d. per tin.
Pears . . .
is. 4 d. per lb.
(Mason’s)
(Liebig’s) . .
9 id. per bot.
Angelica .
is. id. per lb.
2 s. 3 d. per J lb.
Figs ....
is. 4 d. per lb.
Beef Tea in skins .
5s. to 6s. per lb.
Flour — Best Whites
from i id. 7 lb. bag.
Blancmange Pwdr.
6 d. per box.
Self-raising .
is. io d. 12 lb. bag.
Capers ....
5 d. per J lb. bottle.
Whole Meal
i id. 7 lb. bag.
Candied peel — ■
Gelatine .
3 Id. per pkt.
Lemon
4-| d. per lb.
Ginger — .
8 d. per lb.
Orange .
id. per lb.
Ground .
8 d. per lb.
Citron
7 d. per lb.
Crystallized .
is. id. per lb.
Mixed .
6 d. per lb.
Preserved
5 d. per lb. in jar.
Chicorv
4 d. per lb.
Golden syrup .
is. per 4 lb. tin.
Chocolate .
io d. per lb.
Herbs ....
5d. per bot.
Best do.
ii d. per tin.
Isinglass .
5 d. per pkt.
Milk paste .
ii d. per tin.
Mustard .
is. 4d. i lb. tin.
Cocoa ....
2S. 6 d. per lb.
Prunes
4d. per lb.
Essence .
from is. 6 d. per lb.
Pudding powder .
6 d. per pkt.
Nibs *
is. 3 d. per lb.
Raisins —
Cocoatina .
is. 7 Ad. per A lb. tin.
V alencia
5 d. per lb.
Coffee —
Sultanas
6 d. per lb.
Whole, or ground
from is. to 2S. per lb.
Muscatels
8 d. to is. 4d. per lb.
East-India .
is. 6 d. per lb.
Spices, various .
4fd. per tin.
Mocha
is. qd. per lb.
Sugar — Demerara
2 Id. per lb.
Coffee and Milk .
io |d. per tin.
Loaf ....
2|d. per lb.
Currants
2 \d. to 5 d. per lb.
Tea —
is. 2d. per lb.
Custard powder
4 Id. per tin.
Congou .
Curry powder .
is. 6 d. per lb. bot.
Ceylon
is. 6 d. to 3S. per lb.
Paste
is. 2d. per A pt. jar.
Orange Pekoe .
2S. 8 d. per lb.
Egg powder .
6 d. per pkt.
Gunpowder .
3s. per lb.
Fruit— .Dried
is. 2d. per lb.
Assam Pekoe
2S. 6 d. per lb.
Apricots v
is. 3 d. per lb.
Oolong .
2S. 6 d. per lb.
Lunettes
is. 4 d. per lb.
Young Hyson .
2S. 6 d. per lb.
Melon
is. 6d. per lb.
Consolidated
2 s. 8d. per lb.
Mixed
is. 4 d. per lb.
Yeast-Powder
4d. per tin.
Preserved and Tinned Provisions. — The preservation of meat and other
foods by pickling, salting and smoking has been in use since early times
in many lands. The primitive methods of exposing slabs of meat,
or split-open fish and fowls, to the fierce rays of the sun, or to the
action of smoke, have been improved upon. A large choice of
smoked hams and bacon (the pork having undergone some process of
“ curing ” before the actual smoke exposure) is now afforded, and other
dried foods usually found in the market are smoked tongues, smoked
and salted herrings, mackerel, salmon, eels, turtle, etc., smoked breasts
of geese and sausages.
Of much more recent origin are the methods of preserving foods in
bottles and tins. This system is due to a Parisian, named Appert. He
placed meats, vegetables and fruits in bottles, brought them to the boil,
and hermetically sealed the openings. It is true that before his day,
it had been the custom to put foods in vases with or without water and
MARKETING GUIDE: PORK AND VEAL,
i. Side of Pork : a. Leg, n. Belly, c. Loin, d. Hand, e. Spare Rib. 3. Loin.
4. Hand and Spring, and Belly. 5. Loin (side view): f. Fore-end, c. Middle Loin,
h. Hind Loin. 6. Leg. 2. Neck of Veal. 7. Side of Veal : a. Knuckle, u. Fillet,
c. Loin, d. Breast, e. Best End of Neck, f. Shoulder, g. Scrag.
3 c,*
MARKETING
91
vinegar, and pour on an air impervious seal of oil. But Appert’s
system was a great step in advance, and gave rise to the enormous trade
in tinned and bottled foods. For years the system was chiefly applied
to the preserving of expensive delicacies, but it was ultimately adopted
in Australia and America for the packing of cheap foods, such as beef
and mutton, and afterwards rabbits, soups, salmon and lobster.
In the early stages, Australian meat was partly roasted, then
packed in tins which were boiled in a water bath, or by steam,
and then sealed down. Though the meat was cheap, it was somewhat
overcooked, and therefore neither tasty nor nourishing. Improve-
ments have been steadily produced, and now the meat, fowl, and fish
imported from abroad in tins is usually excellent. Some precaution
should be taken. The food remains wholesome so long as the tins
remain air-tight, but if air gets in, decomposition soon follows. It
is therefore necessary to see that the tins are perfect and air-tight.
Tins should not be bulged ; the tops and bottoms should be concave,
and have the appearance of depressions. They should be free from
rust. Bulged and rusty tins should be rejected, and so ought those
which emit a rush of air on being opened. As soon as a tin is opened
the whole contents should be turned out. Fish should be eaten
(or at all events cooked) the same day it is opened. This does
not apply to sardines and other kinds preserved in oil, although
even these had better be placed in glass or earthenware dishes. Tinned
vegetables and fruits soon deteriorate when opened if left in the tins.
As a rule, foods preserved in earthenware and glass are better and
safer, though rather more expensive than those sold in tin cans.
Tinned and bottled fruits should be stored in a cool, dry cupboard.
Tinned sardines, bottled anchovies and anchovy paste ought always
to be kept in store, as they are useful in preparing many dishes.
TINNED PROVISIONS, JAMS, etc.
Article.
Average Price.
Article.
Average Price.
Cherries in Brandy.
is. yd. per half bot.
Haddocks, Blanch-
Cake, Various .
io'rf. each.
flower .
io d. per tin.
Fruit in Tins —
Herrings
8 d. per tin.
Peaches .
10 d. per tin.
Honev ....
ii d. per jar.
Pineapple
S Id. to 1 1 id. per tin.
J ams —
Pears ....
gi i. to is. 6 d. „ „
Apricot .
5 d. per lb. jar.
Apricots .
8 d. to is. 4 d. ,, ,,
Raspberry
6d. per lb. jar.
Bottled Plums .
6 id. per bottle.
Strawberry .
5 d. per lb. jar.
Cranberries .
8 Id. per bottle.
Raspberry and
Gooseberries
6 id. per bottle.
Currant
5 Id. per lb. jar.
Black Currants .
nd. per bottle.
Greengage
5 d. per lb. jar.
Red Currants
8} d. per bottle.
Black Currant .
6 d. per lb. jar.
Cherries .
io d. per bottle.
Red Currant
5 d. per lb. jar.
Greengages .
gd. per bottle.
Gooseberry .
4 id. per lb. jar.
Raspberries and
Currants .
is. per bottle.
Plum ....
4 d. per lb. jar.
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
92
TINNED PROVISIONS, JAMS, ETC. ( continued )—
Article.
Average Price.
Article.
Average Price.
Jellies —
Meats, etc. ( contd .) —
Red Currant
4 d.
per -J lb. pot.
Lunch Ham
is. id. per 1 J lb. tin.
Black Currant .
4 d
per J- lb. pot.
Minced Collops .
g\d. per 2 lb. tin.
Calf’s Foot .
IS.
6 d. per qt. bot.
Minced Steak
9 \d. per 2 lb. tin.
Orange .
is.
6 d. per qt. bot.
Mutton Cutlets
Lemon
is.
6 d. per qt. bot.
with Tomato
Madeira .
2 S.
per qt. bot.
Sauce .
is. 9 d. per tin.
Aspic ....
IS.
6 d. per qt. bot.
Mutton, Roast .
10 d. per tin.
Lobster ....
8 d.
per tin.
Mutton, Boiled .
is. 2 a. per tin.
Marmalade .
4 d.
per lb. jar.
Ox Tongues .
2S. 9 d. per tin.
Meats, Game and
Ox Tails (solid) .
9 Id. per 2 lb. tin.
Poultry —
Pheasant, Roast,
Ham and Chicken
IS.
4 d. small tin.
whole, in Jelly
4 s. 6 d. per tin.
Turkey and
Ptarmigan
is. 9 d. per tin.
Tongue
IS.
4 d. small tin.
Pic-nic Pie .
is. A,d. per tin.
Ham, Chicken,
Rabbit, excellent
and Tongue
IS.
4 d. small tin.
quality
91 i. per tin.
Beef, Ham and
Rabbit, finest
Tongue
2S.
large tin.
quality
roiW. per tin.
Veal, Ham and
Rabbit, Curried .
10 Id. per 2 lb. tin
Tongue
2S.
large tin.
Stewed Kidney
Chicken and
and Mushroom
is. 9 d. per tin.
Tongue
2S.
1 \d. large tin.
Turkey and
Chicken and
Tongue
11 Id. per tin.
Ham .
2S.
1 \d. large tin.
Turkey, — Roast .
is. 3 d. per tin.
Chicken, Ham
Turkey, Bone-
and Tongue .
2S.
1 \d. large tin.
less
11 \d. per | lb. tin.
Turkey and
Tete de Veau (en
Tongue
2S.
1 id. large tin.
Tortue)
is. 5 d. per tin.
Veal and Ham .
2S.
1 Id. large tin.
Veal and Ham
Pork and Rabbit
IS.
8 d. per tin.
(half - circle
Beef, Boiled or
tin)
is. 10 id. per tin.
Roast. .
IS.
2 d. per tiu.
Veal Cutlets with
Chicken, Roast,
Tomato Sauce
is. 9 d. per tin.
whole, in jelly.
3s-
3 d. per tin.
Veal Loaf
9 Id. per tin.
Chicken (Poulet
Milk—
de Bresse)
2S.
6 d. per tin.
Anglo-Swiss .
5 bd. per tin.
Half Roast Fowl
English .
5 d- per tin.
and Sausage .
2S.
per tin.
Olives —
6 d. per bottle.
Chicken and
French
Tongue (half
Spanish .
8 d. per bottle.
circle tin) .
IS.
10I d. per tin.
Ovsters ....
6 hi. per tin.
Chicken, Spring
Plum Pudding
is. 10 d. per lb. tin.
(one bird in tin)
IS.
6 d. per tin.
Potted Meats —
Chicken, Roast .
is. 3 d. per 1 J lb. tin.
Anchovv .
5 d. per tin.
Chicken, Boneless
Ill
d. per f lb. tin.
Bloater .
5 d. per tin.
Duck, Boneless .
ii-bd- per -J lb. tin.
Ham — Tongue .
5 d. per tin.
Calf’s Head and
Strasbourg Meats —
Tomato
I s«
2 \A. per tin.
Beef ....
5 d. per tin.
Camp Pie
IS.
4 d. per tin.
Pate de foie gras
2s. 6 d. per jar.
Game Pie
IS.
4 d. per tin.
Game
5 d. per tin.
Jugged Hare
Lambs’ Sweet-
IS.
3 d. per tin.
Rabbit
is. 8 d. per tin.
Salmon ....
8 d. per tin.
breads with
Sardines (Peneau) .
is. 2d. per tin.
Tomato Sauce
IS.
4 id. per tin.
(Philipee and
Larks, Roast, 6
Canaud) .
is. 4 d. per tin.
birds .
2S.
9 d. per tin.
Sausages
6 d. to 2s. per tin.
MARKETING 93
TINNED PROVISIONS, JAMS, ETC. (, continued ) —
Article.
Average Price.
Article.
Average Price.
Soups —
Turtle (Brand’s)
is. 5 d. per qt. tin.
Soups ( cnntd .) — ■
! Gravy, Vegetable
is. per qt. tin.
Ox Tail, Mock
Green Pea .
7 d. per qt. tin.
Turtle, Hare,
1 Mutton Broth .
is. per qt. tin.
( ulienne, Mulli-
Truffles ....
is. 8 d. \ bottle.
gatawny.Gravy,
and Giblet
From is. per qt. tin.
Vegetables — •
Artichokes .
is. 4 id. per bot.
Soups iCrosse &
Asparagus
is. per tin.
Blackwell, and
Celery
9 d. per tin.
Lazenby) —
French Beans .
is. per tin.
Game — Hare
is. 6 d. per qt. tin.
Green Peas .
10 d. per qt. tin.
Mock Turtle, Ox
Haricots, Verts .
is. per qt. tin.
Tail . . .
is. 4c?. per qt. tin.
Macedoine
10 \d. per qt. tin.
Giblet. Mulliga-
Mushrooms .
is. per qt. tin.
tawny .
is. 4 d. per qt. tin.
Tomatoes
qrf. to 6 d. per tin.
J ulienne .
is. per qt. tin.
BISCUITS.
Article.
Average Price.
Article.
Average Price.
Abernetby .
6 d. per lb.
Ginger Nuts .
6 d. per lb.
Almond Rings
6d. per lb.
Ice Creams
is. 8 d. per lb.
Arrowroot .
yd. per lb.
J am Fingers .
8 d. per lb.
Arrowroot (thin) .
8 d. per lb.
Kindergarten .
5 d. per lb.
Bath ....
yd. per lb.
Lunch ....
From 3d. per lb.
Breakfast .
8 d. per lb.
Macaroons.
11 d. per lb.
Butter .
5 d. per lb.
Marie ....
8 d. per lb.
Butter Cream .
yd. per lb.
Maitre d’Hotel
From is. per lb.
Butter Fingers
6| d. per lb.
Milk ....
$d. per lb.
Butter Nuts
5 d. per lb.
i Mixed ....
From 6 d. per lb.
Cinderella .
6 d. per lb.
N i ce
From 6 d. per lb.
Captain
5 d. per lb.
Oat Cakes.
is. 6 d- per packet.
Cheese ....
5 d. per lb.
Olive ....
10 id. per lb.
Coffee ....
10 d. per lb.
! Osborne
yd. per lb.
Colonial
6 d. per lb.
j Oswego.
gd. per lb.
Cracknel
is. per lb.
Ratafias
is. 6 d. per lb.
Cream Cracker.
6 d. per lb.
Shortbread
From gd. per tin.
Dessert ....
10 d. to is. 3 d. per lb.
! Tea. *. . . .
6 d- per lb.
Digestive
gd. per lb.
Toast ....
yd- per lb.
Dinner ....
gd. per lb.
Water ....
srf- per lb.
Garibaldi
6 d per lb.
Wafers (various) .
is. 2d. to is. 8 d.
Ginger ....
From 6d. per lb.
Wholemeal
8 d. per lb.
GRAIN AND PREPARED FOODS.
Article.
Average Price.
Article.
Average Price.
Arrowroot .
From 5 d. to io d.
Rice ( continued ) —
per lb.
Patna
2 id. per lb.
Barley ....
2d. per lb.
Java.
2 id. per lb.
Corn Flour
5 d. per lb. packet.
Carolina .
3 d. per lb.
Groats ....
41?. per lb. packet.
Ground .
2 d. per lb.
Iiominv
2d. per lb.
Sago, Small .
2d. per lb.
Lentil Flour
3 d. per lb.
Large
2 id. per lb.
Oatmeal
From 2 \d. per lb.
Semolina .
2 \d. per lb.
Pea Flour .
6 d. per tin.
Tapioca
2d. per lb.
Rice — -
Best ....
4 d. per lb.
Rangoon
2d. per lb.
Vermicelli .
3 \d. per lb.
94
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
SAUCES AND PICKLES.
Article.
Average Price.
Article.
Average Price.
Sauces —
Anchovy
io d. per bottle.
Sauces ( continued ) —
Horseradish .
\\d. per pot.
Browning for See
Brand’s Ai .
s'rf. per bottle.
Mason’s O.K.
y\d. per bottle.
8 d. per bottle.
Foundation Sauces
Tomato .
io Id. per bottle.
Italienne, dark .
is. g d. 4 oz. bottle.
Clarence .
6 d. per bottle.
Espagnole, brown
is. gd. 4 oz. bottle.
Harvey’s
yd. per bottle.
Allemande, pale .
is. gd. 4 oz. bottle.
Ketchup
8 d. per bottle.
Pickles —
Reading (Cock’s)
io d. per bottle.
Cabbage .
8 id. per pint bot.
Soy ....
6| d. per bottle.
Cauliflower .
8 Id. per pint bot.
Regent .
15. per bottle.
Onions, Mixed .
8 Id. per pint bot.
Worcester
per bottle.
W’alnuts .
8 l-d. per pint bot.
Yorkshire Relish
4 Id. and gd. per bot.
Piccalilli .
Sh d. per pint bot.
Edward’s
8d. per bottle.
Gherkins
8 Id. per pint bot.
Mushroom Ket-
Mangoes .
8 Id. per pint bot.
chup
5 d. per bottle.
Chutnee .
is. per bottle.
Bengal Chutney.
is. per bottle.
Mango
is. per bottle.
Curry
6| d. per tin.
Indian Relish
is. 6 d. per jar.
HOUSEHOLD REQUISITES.
Article.
Average Price.
Article.
Average Price.
Bath Brick
id. each.
Nugget . .
4 Id. and gd. per bot.
Beeswax
is. gd. per lb.
Pepper — W’hole .
is. 2 d. per lb.
Blacking
3 d. doz. skins.
Ground .
is. 2d. per lb.
Ebonite .
gd. per bottle.
Cayenne
4 d. per bottle.
Blacklead . . .
Gd. per packet.
Nepaul .
4 d. to is. per bottle.
Blue ....
io d. per lb.
Plate Powder
Gd. per box.
Brunswick Black .
yd. per bottle.
Polishing Paste .
Gd. per pot.
Candles, Composite
3s. Gd. 6 lb.
Salt . A . .
y\d. per 14 lb.
Stearine .
3S. gd. 6 lb.
Cerebos
Gd. per tin.
Rock W'ax
3s. gd. 6 lb.
Soan, Yellow (Kt.)
3 d. per lb.
Dyes ....
3 W. per bottle.
Soft (Knight)
10 \d. 3 £-lb. tin.
Gold Paint
io l-d. per bottle.
\ Cold Water .
3 d. per lb.
Essences (flavouring)
from 3 d. per bottle.
Carbolic .
2,d. per lb.
Furniture Polish .
Gd. per pot.
Hudson’s Extract
4 d. per packet.
Cream
Gd. per bottle.
Toilet ....
id. to 6 d. per tablet.
Knife Powder .
4 ,V<f. per packet.
Soda ....
yd. per 14 lb.
Polish
4 Id. per packet.
Starch — Glenfield
5 Id. per lb.
Metal Polishing Pdr.
3 d. per box.
Colrnan’s
3I d. per lb.
Night Lights .
4s. doz. boxes.
Vinegar
y\d. per quart.
MARKETING
95
WINES, SPIRITS AND LIQUEURS.
In the following lists the prices are averaged from those of several
good firms of Wine Merchants, both in London and the chief pro-
vincial towns. Prices vary very considerably according to the age of
the wine and vintage years.
WINES.
Australian Wines (Red) —
Burgundy . from 19s. per doz. bots.
Cabernet . „ 24s. per doz. bots.
Chablis . 19s. per doz. bots.
Australian Wines (White) —
Riesling . . from 22s. per doz. bots.
Muscat . . ,, 30s. per doz. bots.
Bordeaux (White) —
Sauterne. . from 25s. per doz. bots.
Burgundy (Red) —
Burgundy . from 18s. per doz. bots.
Beaune . . ,, 24s. per doz. bots.
Chambertin. „ 60s. per doz. bots.
California Wines —
Burgundy . from 19 s. per doz. bots.
Claret . . „ 17s. per doz. bots.
Sauterne. . ,, 25s. per doz. bots.
Hock Riesing „ 19s. per doz. bots.
Champagne —
Bollinger & Co. from 82s. per doz. bots.
Deutz & Gel-
dermann . ,, 70s. per doz. bots.
Duminv&Co. ,, 80s. per doz. bots.
Heidsieck & Co. ,, 90s. per doz. bots.
Laurent-Per-
rier . „ 78s. per doz. bots.
Moet & Chan-
don . . . ,, 66s. per doz. bots.
G. H. Mumm
& Co. . . „ 87s. per doz. bots.
Piper-Heid-
sieck . . „ 84s. per doz. bots.
Pommery &
Greno . . ,, 156s. per doz. bots.
Claret —
Ordinary . . from 12s. per doz. bots.
Medoc. . . ,, 18s. per doz. bots.
Chateau Mar-
gaux . . ,, 72 s. per doz. bots.
Claret ( continued ) —
j Chateau Lafite from 400s. per doz. bots.
Chateau Cos
d’Estournel ,, 50s. per doz. bots.
Hock—
Niersteiner . from 24s. per doz. bots.
j Johannisberg . „ 126s. per doz. bots.
j Marcobrunner ,, 56s. per doz. bots.
i Rudesheimer . ,, 30s. per doz. bots.
Italian Wine —
Egidio Vitali . from 66s. per doz. bots.
Chianti, Ordi-
nary . . . ,, 2is. 6d. per doz bots.
Tarragona Port . ,, 12s. per doz. bots.
Madeira —
Dinner Wine . from 32s. to 68s. per doz.
Marsala— lbots-
Virgin . . from 19s. 6rf. per doz. bots.
Moselle —
Berncastler Doc-
tor Auslese from 60s. per doz. bots.
Port . . ,, 1 8s. to 144s. per doz. bots.
Vintage Wines —
Tube’s, 1892 . from 66s. per doz. bots.
Croft’s, 1885 . ,, 70s. per doz. bots.
Sandeman’s, 1865 ,, 144s. per doz. bots.
Sherry —
Pale. . . . fromi8s. per doz. bots
Golden . . . „ 20s. per doz. bots.
Superior Golden „ 48s. per doz. bots.
Montiila . . „ 66s. per doz. bots.
j British Wines —
Orange . . . frc
| Ginger . . .
Raisin .
Cowslip.
! Cider
>m 14s. per doz. bots.
,, 14s. per doz. bots.
„ 14s. per doz. bots.
,, 14s. per doz. bots.
„ ys. per doz. bots.
SPIRITS.
Brandy . from 40s. to 200s. per doz. bots. || Rum . . from 35s. to 43s. per doz. bots.
Gin . . ,, 28s. to 38s. per doz. bots. j| Whiskey . ,, 37s. to 66s. per doz. bots.
Holland. ,, 30s. to 55s. 6 d. per doz. j Vermouth. ,, 30s. per doz. bots.
bots. '!
96
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
LIQUEURS.
Liqueurs —
Absinthe . . from 6s. per bot.
Anisette . . ,,
Benedictine . ,,
Creme de Menthe „
Chartreuse (yel-
low) . . . „
C hartreuse
(green) . . „
Curagoa (sweet
or dry) . . „
1 Liqueurs ( continued ) —
Kirschwasser . from 5s. 6d. per bot.
Kiimmel . ,, 4s. 3d. per bot.
Maraschino. . „ 4s. gd. per bot.
Vermouth . . „ 2 s. 6 d. per bot.
English Liqueurs —
Cherry Brandy- from 3s. 6 d. per bot.
Ginger Brandy „ 3s. 6 d. per bot.
Orange Brandy „ 3s. 6 d. per bot.
Milk Punch . „ 3s. 6 d. per bot.
5s. per bot.
7s. per bot.
5s. 6 d. per bot.
9s. per bot.
ns. 8 d. per bot.
5s. gd. per bot.
ALES AND STOUT.
Dinner Ale . . 2s. 6 d. per doz. bots.
Stout . . . . 2S. G( i. per doz. bots.
Pale Ale . . . 8s. 6 d. per 9 gals.
Bitter Ale . . . 11s. 6 d. per 9 gals.
Stout in Cask . . 14s. per 9 gals.
Porter in Cask . . gs. per 9 gals.
MINERAL WATERS AND BEVERAGES.
Article.
Average Price.
Article.
Average Price.
Soda Water
is. 3 d. per doz.
Bitters —
Lemonade
is. 6 d. ,,
Angostura .
4s. 61 i. per bot.
Ginger Beer
is. 6 d. ,,
Hop ....
2s. 6d. ,,
Ginger Ale
is. 6 d.
Khoosh .
2s. 6 d. „
Potass ....
is. 6 d. „
Orange .
2s. 6. i. „
Lithia ....
3 s. gd.
Fruit J uice &Syrups
Soda Water (Sch.)
2 s. gd. „
Lemon Juice
4 id.
Seltzer „ .
2s. gd. ,,
Orange J uice
4 id. ,,
Ginger Ale ,, .
2 s. gd. ,,
Lime Fruit I uice
IS. ,,
Lemonade „ .
3s- 3 d.
Lime J uice Cordl.
is. 1 Id. ,,
Potass ,, .
2 s. gd. ,,
Syrups, Lemon,
Lithia „ .
4s.
etc.
Vinegar, Rasp-
berry .
IS. „
5 hd.
NATURAL MINERAL WATERS.
Name.
Properties.
Price.
Apenta
Aperient
iis. per doz. bottles.
Apollinaris
Table Water ....
6s. per doz. bottles.
Buffalo Lithia
Alkaline Lithiated .
9s. per doz. bottles.
Carlsbad
Alkaline Lithiated .
12s. per doz. bottles.
Hunyadi j anos
Saline Aperient
12s. per doz. bottles.
J ohannis
Table Water, Gaseous
6s. per doz. bottles.
Marienbad
Alkaline Chalybeate .
iis. per doz. bottles.
Rosbach
Table Water ....
6s. per doz. bottles.
Salutaris (Manufactured)
Table Water ....
4s. 6 d. per doz. bottles.
Taunus
Table Water, Gaseous
5s. per doz. bottles.
Vichy (State Springs)
Alkaline Acidulated
9s. per doz. bottles.
MARKETING 97
COMPARATIVE VALUE OF FOOD, WITH ITS PERCENTAGE OF CARBON
AND NITROGEN.
SHOWING WHAT A SHILLING WILL BUY.
A Shilling will Buy
Bone.
Meat.
Total
Weight.
Per Cent.
Carbon.
Per Cent.
Nitrogen.
Rumpsteak
none.
13 oz.
13 oz.
11*00
3*00
Beefsteak
none.
16 oz.
16 oz.
Ribs of beef
2\ OZ.
15'- oz.
18 oz.
,,
„
Leg of mutton piece .
none.
19 oz.
19 oz.
Shin
none
30 oz.
30 oz
Leg of mutton .
2} OZ.
1 5_f oz.
18 oz.
Loin of mutton .
S OZ.
1 5 oz.
18 oz.
Neck (best end).
4 OZ.
16 oz.
20 OZ.
Shoulder (best end).
3 oz.
1 7 oz.
20 OZ.
,,
Veal cutlet
2 OZ.
10 oz.
12 OZ.
y
Breast of veal
6 oz.
16 oz.
22 OZ.
t y
Salmon ....
I OZ.
7 oz.
8 oz.
1 6-oo
2-09
One-third of a fowl .
I I oz.
9 oz.
20 OZ.
14*00
. 3-275
Two-thirds of a rabbit
4 oz.
16 oz.
20 OZ.
—
—
Bacon
2 oz.
19 oz.
21 OZ.
62-58
J'394
Bread
—
—
IOO OZ.
30-00
1*20
Cheese
—
—
24 OZ.
41-24
4-126
Potatoes .
—
—
192 OZ.
8i-oo
0-33
Oatmeal1
—
—
I 12 OZ.
44-00
1-95
Haricot beans1 .
—
—
9s oz.
45-00
3-22
Hominy1
—
—
136 oz.
40-28
1 • 60
To arrive at the relative value of various foods, it is absolutely neces-
sary to carefully estimate their different nutritive qualities.
By this table it will be seen that some expensive foods are really
even more costly than they appear at first sight, because of the small
proportion of flesh-forming, or nutritive quality they contain. As an
instance of this one shilling will buy only 7 ozs. of salmon, containing
2 per cent nitrogen., while the same sum will buy 30 ozs. of shin of beef,
containing 3 per cent, nitrogen, or 24 ozs. of cheese, containing 4 per
cent.
The heat-giving qualities can be estimated by comparing the large
percentage of carbon which such foods as oatmeal and potatoes contain
with the small amount which is found in various meats. Thus one
shilling will buy 136 ozs. of hominy, containing 40-28 per cent, of car-
bon, or 192 ozs. of potatoes, containing 81 per cent., whilst it will only
buy 13 ozs. of steak, which contains 11 per cent, of carbon.
“ Once, weekly, remember thy charges to cast.
Once, monthly, see how thy expenses may last.” — Tusser, 1557.
Artificially dried. Reckon half as much again for the water to be added,
15
93
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
CALENDAR OF FOOD IN SEASON
The following lists will be found useful in arranging menus, as it can
be seen at a glance what Fish, Meat, Vegetables, etc., are in season, but
it veill be necessary to turn to our price lists to know when all such fresh
provisions are cheapest and best. It need hardly be added that
tinned and preserved provisions are always to be obtained.
JANUARY.
Fish. — Brill, carp, cod, crayfish, eels, flounders, haddocks, halibut,
ling, lobsters, mussels, oysters, perch, pike, prawns, scallops, shrimps,
skate, smelts, soles, sprats, tench, turbot, whitebait, whiting.
Meat. — Beef, house lamb, mutton, pork, veal, venison.
Poultry. — Capons, chickens, ducklings, pigeons, pullets, turkeys.
Game. — Hares, partridges, pheasants, snipe, wild-fowl, woodcock.
Vegetables. — Jerusalem Artichokes, beetroot, broccoli, cabbages,
carrots, celery, chervil, cresses, cucumbers, endive, lettuces, parsnips,
potatoes, spinach, turnips.
Fruit. — Apples, bananas, grapes, medlars, nuts, oranges, pears, pines,
Spanish nuts.
FEBRUARY
Fish. — Bream, brill, carp, cod, crab, crayfish, eels, flounders, had-
docks, halibut, herrings, ling, lobsters, mullet, mussels, oysters, pike,
prawns, salmon, scallops, shrimps, skate, smelts, soles, sprats, turbot,
whitebait, whiting.
Meat. — Beef, house lamb, mutton, pork, veal.
Poultry. — Capon, chickens, ducklings, pigeons, pullets, turkeys.
Game. — Hares, partridges, pheasants (until the 15th), snipes, wood-
cock, wild fowl.
Vegetables. — Jerusalem Aitichokes, beetroot, broccoli, Brussels
sprouts, cabbages carrots, celery, chervil, cresses, cucumbers, endive,
lettuce, parsnips, potatoes, savoys, spinach, turnips.
Fruit. — Apples, bananas, chestnuts, grapes, medlars, rhubarb, nuts,
oranges, pears, pines, peaches, Spanish nuts.
MARCH.
Fish. — Bream, brill, carp, cod, crabs, crayfish, eels, flounders, had-
docks, halibut, herring, ling, lobsters, mullet, mussels, oysters, pike,
prawns, salmon, scallops, shrimps, skate, smelt, soles, sprats, tench,
turbot, whiting, whitebait.
Moat. — Beef, house lamb, mutton, pork, veal.
Poultry. — Capons, chickens, ducklings, pigeons, pullets, turkeys,
wild-fowl.
Game. — Hares, Guinea fowls. Foreign : black game, ortolans,
ptarmigan, quails.
MARKETING
99
Vegetables. — Jerusalem artichokes, asparagus, beetroot, broccoli,
Brussels sprouts, cabbages, cauliflowers, celery, chervil, cucumbers,
endive, horseradish, lettuce, mushrooms, parsnips, radishes, spinach,
tomatoes, watercress.
Fruit. — Apples, bananas, figs, grapes, medlars, nectarines, oranges,
pears, peaches, pines, dried fruits, rhubarb.
APRIL.
Fish. — Bream, brill, crabs, crayfish, dory, flounders, gurnet, haddock,
halibut, lobsters, mullet, mussels, oysters, prawns, salmon, scallops,
shad, shrimps, skate, smelts, soles, turbot, trout, whitebait, whiting.
Meat. — Beef, lamb, mutton, pork, veal.
Poultry. — Capons, chickens, ducklings, fowls, goslings, pigeons,
pullets, rabbits.
Game. — Guinea fowl. Foreign : ortolans, ptarmigan, quails.
Vegetables. — Jerusalem artichokes, asparagus, beetroot, broccoli,
cabbages, cauliflowers, celery, lettuce, mushrooms, parsnips, radishes,
seakale, spinach, sprouts, tomatoes, turnips, watercress.
Fruit. — Apples, bananas, figs, grapes, oranges, pines, dried fruits,
rhubarb.
MAY.
Fish, — Bass, brill, crabs, crayfish, dory, eels, hake, halibut, herrings,
lobsters, mackerel, mullet, prawns, salmon, shad, scallops, smelts, soles,
trout, turbot, whitebait, whiting.
Meat. — Beef, lamb, mutton, veal, buck venison.
Poultry. — Capons, chickens, ducklings, fowls, goslings, pigeons,
pullets, rabbits.
Game. — Guinea fowl. Foreign : ortolans, ptarmigan, quails.
Vegetables. — Artichokes, asparagus, beans, beetroot, cabbages,
caiTots, cauliflowers, cresses, cucumbers, endive, leeks, lettuce, mush-
rooms, peas, potatoes, radishes, seakale, spinach, tomatoes, turnips,
watercress.
Fruit. — Apples, bananas, figs, gooseberries (green), grapes, oranges,
pears, pines, dried fruits, rhubarb.
JUNE.
Fish. — Bass, bream, brill, crabs, crayfish, dory, eels, gurnets, halibut,
hake, haddock, lobsters, mackerel, mullet, plaice, perch (after 15th),
prawns, salmon, shad, soles, shrimps, trout, turbot, whitebait, whiting.
Meat.— Beef, lamb, mutton, buck venison.
Poultry. — Capons, chickens, ducklings, fowls, goslings, pigeons,
pullets, turkey poults.
Game. — Guinea fowls. Foreign : Hazel hens, quails.
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
too
Vegetables. — Asparagus, artichokes, beans, beetroot, cabbages, car-
rots, chervil, cucumbers, leeks, lettuce, mushrooms, parsnips, peas,
potatoes, radishes, seakale, spinach, tomatoes, turnips, watercress.
Fruit. — Apples, bananas, cherries, currants, gooseberries, grapes,
melons, nectarines, peaches, pears, pines, strawberries, rhubarb.
JULY.
Fish. — Bass, bream, brill, carp, crabs, crayfish, dory, eels, gurnets,
haddock, hake, halibut, herrings, lobsters, mackerel, mullet, perch,
plaice, prawns, salmon, shad, sin-imps, soles, tench, trout, turbot,
whitebait, whiting.
Meat. — Beef, lamb, mutton, veal, buck venison.
Poultry. — Capons, chickens, ducklings, fowls, goslings, pigeons,
pullets, rabbits, turkey poults.
Game. — Quails (foreign).
Vegetables. — Artichokes, asparagus, beans, beetroot, cabbage, carrots,
cauliflowers, chervil, cresses, cucumber, endive, leeks, lettuce, mush-
rooms, peas, spinach, tomatoes, turnips, watercress.
Fruit. — Apricots, bananas, cherries, currants, figs, gooseberries,
grapes, melons, nectarines, oranges, pears, pineapples, plums, rasp-
berries, strawberries.
AUGUST.
Fish. — Bass, bream, brill, carp, chub, crabs, crayfish, dory, eels,
flounders, gurnets, haddock, hake, halibut, lobsters, mullet, plaice,
perch, pike, prawns, salmon, shad, shrimps, soles, tench, trout, turbot,
whitebait, whiting.
Meat. — Beef, lamb, mutton, veal, buck venison.
Poultry. — Capons, chickens, ducklings, ducks, fowls, geese, goslings,
pigeons, pullets, rabbits, turkey poults.
Game. — Black game, capercailzie (20th), grouse (12th), hares,
plovers, woodcock, quails (foreign).
Vegetables. — Artichokes, beans, beetroot, cabbages, carrots, cauli-
flowers, cresses, cucumbers, leeks, lettuce, peas, potatoes, spinach,
tomatoes, turnips, vegetable marrows, watercress.
Fruit. — Apricots, bananas, cherries, currants, figs, filberts, grapes,
greengages, melons, nectarines, oranges, peaches, pears, pines, plums,
raspberries, strawberries.
SEPTEMBER.
Fish. — Bass, bream, brill, carp, cod, crayfish, dory, eels, flounders,
gurnets, haddocks, hake, halibut, herrings, lobsters, mackerel, mullet,
oysters, perch, pike, plaice, shrimps, soles, trout, turbot, whiting.
Meat. — Beef, lamb, mutton, pork, veal, buck venison.
MARKETING
IOI
Poultry. — Capons, chickens, ducks, fowls, geese, pigeons, pullets,
rabbits, turkey poults, turkeys.
Game. — Black game, capercailzie, grouse, hares, partridges.
Vegetables. — Artichokes, beans, beetroot, cabbages, carrots, cauli-
flowers, celery, cresses, cucumbers, endive, leeks, lettuce, mushrooms,
parsnips, peas, spinach, sprouts, tomatoes, turnips, vegetable marrows,
watercress.
Fruit. — Apples, apricots, bananas, cherries (morella), cob-nuts,
damsons, figs, filberts, grapes, melons, medlars, nectarines, oranges,
peaches, pears, pines, plums, quinces, walnuts.
OCTOBER.
Fish. — Bream, brill, carp, cod, crabs, crayfish, dory, eels, flounders,
gurnet, haddocks, halibut, herrings, lobsters, mackerel, mullet, mussels,
oysters, perch, pike, plaice, salmon (Dutch), scallops, shrimps, skate,
smelts, tench, turbot, whiting.
Meat.— Beef, lamb, mutton, pork, veal, doe venison.
Poultry. — Capons, chickens, ducks, fowls, geese, pigeons, pullets,
rabbits, turkeys, turkey poults.
Game. — Black game, capercailzie, hares, grouse, pheasants, par-
tridges, ptarmigan.
Vegetables. — Artichokes, beetroots, cabbages, carrots, cauliflowers,
celery, cucumber, lettuce, mushrooms, spinach, tomatoes, turnips,
vegetable marrows, watercress.
Fruit. — Apples, apricots, bananas, cranberries, damsons, figs, filberts,
grapes, medlars, melons, nectarines, peaches, pears, pines, quinces,
walnuts.
NOVEMBER.
Fish. — Bream, brill, carp, cod, crabs, crayfish, dory, flounders, eels,
gurnet, haddocks, halibut, herrings, lobsters, mackerel, mullet, mussels,
oysters, perch, pike, plaice, salmon (Dutch), scallops, shrimps, skate,
smelts, sprats, soles, tench, turbot, wdiiting.
Meat. — Beef, lamb, mutton, pork, doe venison.
Poultry. — Capons, chickens, ducks, fowls, geese, pigeons, pullets,
rabbits, turkey-poults, turkeys.
Game. — Black game, capercailzie, grouse, hares, partridges, pheasants,
ptarmigan.
Vegetables. — Artichokes, beetroot, Brussels sprouts, carrots, celery,
cresses, cucumbers, leeks, lettuce, parsnips, spinach, tomatoes, turnips,
turnip tops, watercress.
Fruit. — Apples, bananas, chestnuts, cranberries, figs, filberts, grapes,
melons, oranges, pears, pines, pomegranates, plums (Californian),
walnuts.
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
io-j,
DECEMBER.
Fish. — Brill, carp, cod, crabs, crayfish, eels, flounders, gurnets,
haddocks, halibut, herrings, lobsters, mackerel, mullet, mussels,
oysters, perch, pike, plaice, salmon (Dutch), scallops, shrimps, skate,
smelt, sprats, soles, tench, whiting.
Meat. — Beef, lamb, mutton, pork, doe venison.
Poultry. — Capons, chickens, ducks, fowls, geese, pigeons, pullets,
rabbits, turkeys.
Game. — Black game, capercailzie (till 20th), grouse (till 18th), hares,
partridges, pheasants, ptarmigan.
Vegetables. — Artichokes, Brussel sprouts, broccoli, cabbages, carrots,
celery, leeks, parsnips, salsify, savoys, Scotch kale, sealcale, spinach,
tomatoes, turnip tops, watercress.
Fruit. — Apples, bananas, chestnuts, figs, filberts, grapes, medlars,
melons, oranges, pears, pines, plums (Californian), pomegranates,
walnuts.
INTRODUCTION TO
COOKERY
CHAPTER VI
English and French Cookery, The Science and Progress
of Cookery, Reasons for Cooking, Methods of
Cooking, with instructions for Broiling, Roasting,
Baking, Boiling, Stewing, Frying, Hints for
Amateur Cooks, The Preservation, Adulteration and
Prices of Food, Digestive Time Table, Quantities
and Measures, and Table of Equivalents.
In the Fine Arts the progress of mankind is marked by a gradual succes-
sion of triumphs over the rude materialities of nature. Plain or rudely-
carved stones, tumuli, or mounds of earth, are the monuments by which
barbarous tribes denote the events of their history, to be succeeded, in
tlie long course of a series of ages, by beautifully proportioned columns,
gracefully sculptured statues, triumphal arches, coins, medals and the
higher efforts of the pencil and the pen, as man advances by culture
and observation to the perfection of his faculties. So is it with the art
of cookery. Man, in his primitive state, lived upon roots and the fruits of
the earth, until by degrees he was driven to seek for new means by which
his wants might be supplied and enlarged. He then became a hunter
and a fisher. As his species increased, greater necessities came upon
him, and he gradually abandoned the roving life of the savage for the
more stationary pursuits of the herdsmen. These begat still more
settled habits, as the result of which he began the practice of agriculture,
formed ideas of the rights of property, and had his own both defined
and secured. The forest, the stream and the sea were then no longer his
only resources for food. He sowed and he reaped, pastured and bred
cattle, lived on the cultivated produce of his fields, and revelled in
the luxuries of the dairy ; raised flocks for clothing, and assumed, to
all intents and purposes, the habits of permanent life and the comfortable
condition of a farmer. This was the fourth stage of social progress, up to
104
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
which the useful or mechanical arts had been incidentally developing
themselves, when trade and commerce began. Through these various
phases, only to live had been the great object of mankind ; but by
and by comforts were multiplied, and accumulating riches created new
wants. The object, then, was not only to live, but to live economically,
agreeably, tastefully and well. Accordingly, the art of cookery com-
mences ; and although the fruits of the earth, the fowls of the air,
the beasts of the field, and the fish of the sea, are still the only food of
mankind, yet these are so prepared, improved and dressed by skill and
ingenuity, that they are the means of immeasurably extending the
boundaries of human enjoyment. Everything that is edible and passes
under the hands of the cook is more or less changed, and assumes new
forms. Hence the immense influence of that functionary upon the
happiness of a household.
In the luxurious ages of Grecian antiquity Sicilian cooks were the
most esteemed, and received high rewards for their services. Among
them, one called Trimalcio was such an adept in his art, that he could
impart to common fish both the form and flavour of the most esteemed
of the piscatory tribes. A chief cook in the palmy days of Roman
extravagance had about £800 a year, and Antony rewarded the one
who cooked the supper which pleased Cleopatra with the present of
a city. With the fall of the Empire, the culinary art sank into less
consideration. In the middle ages cooks laboured to acquire a reputa-
tion for their sauces, which they composed of strange combinations,
for the sake of novelty.
Excellence in the Art of Cookery as in all other things is only acquired
by experience and practice. In proportion, therefore, to the oppor-
tunities which a cook has had of these, so will be his excellence in
the art.
FRENCH COOKERY.
English v. French Cookery. — It is not easy to treat separately English
and French cookery, because, in the first place, by dint of borrowing
across the Channel, the two have become inextricably mixed up, as
is evidenced by our habitual use of French terms, and by the common,
though less constant, use of English terms in French cookery-books ;
and because, in the second place a good deal of what is distinctive in
French cookery is founded on the nature of things, and cannot be
transplanted.
Perhaps the difference is greatest in the cooking of meat. We are
accused of eating meat raw, and we retort that roast meat out of
England is uneatable. The damp climate and the broad pastures,
the turnip crops that flourish under our rainy skies, the graziers who
for many years have worked to make British cattle and British sheep
renowned through the world ; these all have made our cookery what
io6
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
take it out when it is done — and probably the assumption is correct.
If we had to do all our cooking with wood we also should become econo-
mical ; but wood, even in England, does not cost as much as wood
costs in many countries, where coals for domestic use are practically
unknown.
Count Kumford's action in the matter of stoves was received with
some scorn, though he died only in 1814. It used to be said of him
that he would cook his dinner by the smoke from his neighbour’s
chimney. The wasted fuel that escapes as smoke would cook not
one but many dinners.
It is a truism to say that France, pressed by circumstances, has
accomplished much in the realm of cookery. France has achieved
the highest results in luxurious cookery ; and to the thrift of her
peasantry we must look for the beginnings of the French economy
in cookery that has become almost proverbial. Luxury with economy
is the highest praise in cookery.
French Names. — In the present edition of this book French names —
either the accepted or the literal translation — have been added to
many of the dishes. Those of distinct English origin remain as they
are. Our readers can now write a menu in either language.
THE SCIENCE AND PROGRESS OF COOKERY
Cookery and the Artificial Preparation of Food has one chief object, i.e.,
to assist in the wonderful series of changes known as digestion and
assimilation. A secondary aim is to render certain foods, noxious
in their natural state, fit for human consumption. The potato and
manioc are poisonous when gathered, but rendered harmless by the
cook. The object of a journey may be reached by many different,
and sometimes by apparently divergent, roads. So it is here. Some
even argue that the roads once diverging never become parallel.
They declare that the art of cookery, as now understood, only results
in the persistent overtaxing, instead of lightening the labours of,
the digestive organs. But let us realize what it would mean to go back
to pre-cooking days, when our ancestors not only devoured their rela-
tives, but devoured them raw ; or to place ourselves in some savage
tribe where cookery is in its infancy ; or even return to the coarre
abundance of our nearer forefathers ; and all will agree that the properly
trained cook is more friend than foe.
The Art of Cookery. — Within the last few years cookery has made great
strides in a totally new direction. The cook has turned philosopher,
and loves — if not the process of reasoning — at least to be told other
people’s “ reasons why ” for the operations of the kitchen. Chemistry
is a recent science, and is now in an active state of growth. Every day
something is being added to our store of physiological knowledge.
The science of food cannot advance a step but by the help of one of
INTRODUCTION TO COOKERY
i°7
these. Formerly the art of cookery had little enough to do with either,
and flourished long before chemistry and physiology in their modern
acceptation were known.
But we cannot accept the common assertion that because cookery
long flourished alone it should be left alone now, for the same assertion
might be made respecting the application of modern science to aify
department of human activity.
People lived and died before the law of gravitation, or element ary
mathematical truths, or the application of steam to machinery were
discovered, yet these discoveries have been applied to practical indus-
tries with immense benefit to mankind. Science applied to agriculture
has enabled us to support a larger population in greater comfort ;
science applied to food and cookery will enable us to do this and more.
We can confidently look forward to a time when in the chemist's labora-
tory the transformation of nature’s laboratory shall be imitated for
the feeding of our starving millions. That goal is a very long way off,
and we trace out only the first steps of the road towards it. But as
we said at the outset, good cookery must always mean the successful
doing or easing in the kitchen of Nature’s work.
Everyday Science. — It is interesting to the student of human progress
to watch for scientific discoveries, as they gradually creep from the
laboratory to the treatise, from the treatise to the lecture-room, thence
to the kitchen. Each operation was once carried out according to the
fancy of the individual operating. Experience, not only the best, but
the only teacher, taught. There were a number of isolated experi-
ments, some repeated or handed down until they became traditions.
But there was little or no generalization of the facts, and there was
arbitrary declaration instead of reasonable conviction.
In cookery books of a few years ago the reader is bidden to do a
thing at one time, and leave it undone on a precisely similar occasion.
Delicate gradations of heat, frimometers, even thermometers, were
unknown. Water boiled or simmered, was lukewarm or cold, as if
the four words comprehended all the variations of temperature, or at
any rate were fixed points having magical effect upon every substance
used as food. Only a few — a very few — scientific facts have been as
yet applied to everyday cookery. The genealogy of each might pro-
bably be traced from the treatise to the lecture, thence to one book,
now to all. It is curious also to see that there \re some processes in
cookery for which every one now assigns a, reason, while others, equally
common, every one is content to follow unreasoning. It is safe to
assert that supporting or condemning all such processes there is scientific
fact, and if every intelligent cook would try to find out the reason for
what is done, our knowledge would soon emerge from its present
chaotic condition.
io8
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
REASONS FOR COOKING
Food is prepared and cooked for six reasons : (i) To render
mastication easy ; (2) to facilitate and hasten digestion ; (3)
to convert certain naturally hurtful substances into nutritious foods ;
(4) to eliminate harmful foreign elements evolved in food (eg.
the tinea of tapeworm in beef and mutton ; trichinae in pork ;
the ptomaines resulting from tissue waste) ; (5) to combine the right
foods in proper proportions for the needs of the body ; (6) to make
it agreeable to the palate and pleasing to the eye.
It may be said that the last “ reason ” is in flat contradiction to
number two ; that is only apparently so. Apart from the purely
aesthetic value of an agreeable meal, and a well-spread table (and
certainly no one will wish that any pleasure or beauty should be
gratuitously foregone), there remain many solid arguments for
reason number six. “ The eye does half the eating.” The street
boy who flattens his nose against the pastrycook’s window-pane while
his mouth waters at the sight of the good things within ; the animal
who, before he is killed, is shown food, in order that he may produce
pepsine ; the starving man whose pangs are even sharper when he
smells some one else’s good dinner ; all are so many witnesses that the
sight and smell of food cause the digestive juices to flow more abun-
dantly.
Pleasant flavours are a necessity of diet. No man could be nour-
ished on tasteless food, though arranged on the most approved scientific
basis. No man can live healthily on a monotonous diet, though there may
be nothing wanting from the point of view of chemical analysis. The
health of the inmates of public institutions has over and over again
shown noticeable improvement by reason of some change in the dietary,
not implying greater expenditure, nor greater nourishment, nor even
alteration of constituents. As in all human affairs there are facts to
be reckoned with that science cannot foretell or explain.
Mastication acts mechanically in subdividing food and so exposing
a greater surface to the action of the digestive juices with which it
afterwards comes in contact. It acts chemically by reason of the
digestive power of saliva on starch. Among animals there are some
gramnivora that spend a large part of their time in chewing their food,
the flow of saliva being very profuse ; there are others, chiefly carni-
vora, that bolt food whole, and afterwards digest at leisure. Pre-
pared food is more or less divided, so that to some extent mastication
is superseded. For the rest, in the kitchen starch is hydrated, fibre
softened or made brittle, dough vesiculated, albumen coagulated,
and indigestible matter removed.
Any one may perceive how impossible it would be to masticate a
mouthful of flour, and how raw meat would clog the teeth. Flurrying
over our meals, as we do, we should fare badly if all the grinding and
subdividing of human food had to be accomplished by human teeth.
INTRODUCTION TO COOKERY
109
Action of Heat. — The most important results of cookery are to be
ascribed to the action of heat upon the various constituents of our
food. Many foods that we now eat would become useless to mankind
if we had to eat them raw. Cooking may not always alter the chemical
constitution of a food, but even then it may entirely change its prac-
tical value to mankind. As a matter of fact, however, heat does alter
the chemical nature of a great many foods to a considerable extent.
Still, even if the change may be nothing that chemical analysis can
detect, yet it is perceptible to every one who eats a dinner.
There is no greater mistake than to suppose that the chemical
analysis of a food tells us its value. Flesh and bones, and fat and heat
can be, by some warm-blooded animals, obtained from a diet of grass
or woody fibre, but we should starve in the midst of such plenty.
Many of the changes wrought by heat are easily explained. Whether
albumen is barely coagulated or is hard and horny, whether fibre is
shrivelled or swelled, whether gelatine is dry and brittle or dissolved
it does not take a scientific head to discover. But science tells us why
these things are, and so enables us to bring our food readily into what-
ever state we will.
Given certain food, one cook so manipulates it that the consumer is
well nourished and pleased ; another cook leaves him hungry and
discontented.
Combination of Foods. — In preparing food we must remember also
to combine all necessary foods in a right proportion. Some foods are
deficient in one respect, some superabundant in another : a little
addition here and there helps digestion and supplies the body with what
it needs. All cooks do this in obedience to the natural promptings
of the appetite. To rice, rich in starch, they add butter and cream ;
with peas, they serve fat bacon ; salt-fish has less nourishment than
its egg sauce ; beef steak is balanced by boiled potatoes. But the
customs of the kitchen often err, and we have much to learn that
our artificially stimulated appetites fail to teach.
Not only is the deficient supplied, but the indigestible is removed.
Bran from flour, paring from potatoes, cellulose from vegetables go
to feed animals whose digestions are stronger than ours, and who
utilise our discarded food to produce other in a form more fitted to
our powers.
Another service that cookery does is to economize our food by
heating it. Part of what we eat is used as fuel or heat-giving food —
is burnt or oxidized, to keep the heat of the body at a certain point.
Wherever we live and whatever we do, as long as we are in health our
body temperature is always 98° Fahr. neither more nor less. When
we take cold food some of the heat of the body has to be used to heat
it, for the same reason that when we put fresh coals on the fire the
temperature of the room is lowered for a time. So we take our food
warm and use coals to do what our food must otherwise do. There
no
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
are burners that give a very brilliant light with little gas, because the
spare heat of the flame is used to heat the gas that is presently to be
burnt. We warm our food on precisely the same principle. Very hot
food is always unwholesome, but warm food always goes further and
is more nourishing than cold.
Amount of Food. A day’s ration for a healthy man of average size,
doing moderate work, has been reckoned as follows : —
For a woman, also working, the rations may be somewhat smafler,
the proportions being the same, but the total about 3 oz. less.
This seems a small allowance, but when we remember that it is
reckoned as dry food, and that food as we get it is always moist, gener-
ally containing half or rather more than half its weight of water, it
appears that the food altogether should weigh about 40 ozs.
The quantity required varies, however, very much within the limits
of health. Every man requires more food if he works hard, and less
if he has no work to do. Even doing the same work no two men will
eat exactly the same, and it is only possible to calculate by taking an
average of a large number of eaters. Generally speaking, more food
is required in cold weather and cold climates than in hot. But it is
necessary that all these four classes of elements should be represented
in our daily food, and in something like the above proportion. If we
have too little of any one class we are sure to be ill, and if one class
were to be quite left out we should die, even though we have plenty
of other foods.
As to the water, there is not much to be said in addition to the
remarks in the chapter on Beverages. By whatever name we call our
beverages, the chief constituent of them is water, and were we given but
one food we could exist longer on water alone than upon any other,
except milk. In every food, even when artificially dried, there is a
percentage of water, and taking foods one with another there is about
half water. But the amount varies ; in lettuce, 96 per cent, is water ;
in onions, 91 ; in lean meat, 75 ; in wheat, 14. Artificially dried
substances are ready to take up water from the atmosphere, a fact of
practical interest to the housewife, who wall remember that oatmeal,
maize-meal, biscuits, and the like, soon become flabby and moist
if they are left in the open air. It is generally agreed that animals
thrive better on moist food than on dry food with water.
1. Water
2. Albuminoids
3. Fats, starch, sugar, etc.
4. Salts
Oz. Avoirdupois.
• • • 4i
3
■ 14
22\ OZ.
INTRODUCTION TO COOKERY
in
Carbonates and Salts include chloride of sodium, or common salt,
as well as potash, phosphates of lime, and iron. Common salt is a neces-
sary food, but the fact is that many persons now-a-days get too much
of it in the form of salt fish and flesh. It is the only mineral habitually
added to food as such. Potash salts we find in all fresh fruits and
vegetables. Probably no defect in diet is more common than a want
of these, especially in our large towns. Lime is necessary for the
building up of bones and teeth. We look for it in milk for the young,
and in whole grains, and we know that it has been missing when we
see weak and distorted limbs and broken teeth. Iron is generally
thought of as a physic and not as a food. It is, however, a necessary
constituent of the blood, and is chiefly derived in an organized form
from fresh vegetables. It is also largely present in many natural
tonic waters.
Starch or floury Foods are the cheapest and most abundant of all,
so that if people have enough of any food they are likely to have enough
of these. Over-fed persons are an exception to this rule, for too small
a proportion of their diet is starchy. Bread, potatoes, rice, barley
and all the floury foods contain more starch than anything else, and
cornflour, arrowroot, sago and tapioca are nearly pure starches. There
is much starch too in beans, peas and lentils, though they are generally
spoken of as albuminoids, or flesh- forming foods, because of the very
large amount of legumin that they contain. There is no starch in milk,
but there is sugar, which replaces it. An infant can make no use of
starchy food, having no power to digest it. Heated to 200° or 400°
starch becomes dextrine, known too as “ British Gum.” The crust of
a loaf, biscuits and baked flour all show dextrine.
Sugar and treacle are good foods and substitutes for starch. They are,
however, apt to produce acidity in grown-up persons if used too freely,
though children can and do eat large quantities without inconvenience.
The fats, starches and sugars are called heat-producers, because
they are oxidized or burnt in the body to keep up the temperature
to its proper degree. From the starches and sugars fat is deposited,
if more is consumed than is required to maintain the heat of the body ;
therefore, the way to get thin is to eat little or none of these, or, better
still, to take plenty of exercise and let them become completely oxidized.
Fat. — Fat, whether it is in the form of butter, cream, dripping, meat,
bacon, oil, or by any other name, is necessary for food, and many are
the persons that suffer in health from want of it, especially among the
poor, who cannot afford the dearer fats, or do not know the cheaper,
and among the sickly, who cannot — or fancy they cannot — digest fat in
any form. If it can be digested one fat is as good a food as another.
Cod-liver oil and cream are the easiest to digest. Fats that are
greatly heated decompose, and are always difficult of digestion, which
is the reason why fried food often disagrees. Many persons, who
cannot eat a lump of fat with meat hot or cold, can eat buttered toast,
1 12
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
suet pudding, or lightly fried bacon, or fat in one of the many forms
in which it is served.
Fat and starch can replace one another to some extent, but there
must be some far, and it is better in this climate to have some starchy
or floury foods. In the coldest countries plants will not grow, and so
starch is unknown.
Albuminoids is a term that covers albumen and the food substances
which serve the same purpose as albumen. Sometimes they are
spoken of as flesh formers, or as nitrogenous foods, because they all
contain nitrogen, and neither fats, starches, nor sugars do. Nothing
that lives and grows is without nitrogen, and so we find it in large or
small amounts in all plants as well as all animals. Our supplies of
albuminoids, or flesh-formers, are obtained from lean meat, fish,
poultry, game, as milk curd or cheese, eggs, gluten in flour, fibrine in
oats, and in beans, peas and lentils. Albumen is found in many other
foods besides eggs. The blood of many animals contains it, and we have
presently to speak of albumen in meat. In most vegetable juices and
in many seeds and nuts we find it also.
Fibrine is also both animal and vegetable. From meat, wheat
and other corn grains we obtain our daily supply. Casein is
an albumenoid that we find in the curd of milk, and in the pulses,
beans, peas and lentils. Vegetable casein is sometimes called legumin,
but it was given that name before it was known to be practically the
same as animal casein of milk. In China cheese is made of curdled
vegetable casein. Gelatine and some substances nearly like it are
known as gelatinoids, and they can replace albumen in part, though
not altogether.
METHODS OF COOKERY
Six Methods of Cookery are commonly spoken of, viz. i . Broiling ;
2. Roasting; 3. Baking; 4. Boiling; 5. Stewing; 6. Frying.
BROILING
Rules for Broiling Meat. — The rules for broiling remain the same
always. A hot fire at first, with a hot gridiron well greased. Fre-
quent turning. No holes made in the surface, nor cuts to see if the
meat is cooked.
The meat must be turned frequently so that it may be heated and
the albumen may coagulate all over and not merely on one side. Tongs
are sold to turn it over with, because they cannot be used to stick into
the meat and make holes for the juice to run out, but a knife or spoon
or a fork run into the fat answers just as well in the hands of a cook
who knows the reason why a blunt instrument is recommended. Some
few broiled things should not be turned : a mushroom, for instance,
is broiled stalk upwards. The inside of a split fish should first go to
the fire, and afterwards the skin. Paper is wrapped round salmon
and other fresh-water fish.
INTRODUCTION TO COOKERY
113
It is not an economical way of cooking, for though quickly done it takes
a great deal of fuel to make a good broiling fire. The meat loses weight
more than in most ways of cooking. And it is only suited for tender,
juicy meat from the best joints.
ROASTING
This is the favourite national method of cookery. The immense
stone hearths on which huge logs flared up an open chimney were just
adapted for this style of cookery, and the open coal fires in almost
general use until the middle of the 19th century were almost as
prodigal of fuel. To roast before the fire could have become a
national custom only where fuel was cheap. We now roast in the
oven more often than before the lire, but even so it is not an economical
way of cooking, because of the much greater amount of fuel necessary
to heat the oven than to boil a saucepan. The waste in roasting
is also great, from a third to a quarter of the total weight of a
joint is lost in the process ; only a small part of the loss being
recoverable in gravy or dripping. Furthermore, it is a method only
suited to the tender parts of meat, and does not answer at all for
sinewy and gelatinous meat which is the least expensive. Against
this has to be set the fact that roast meat is agreeable to
most persons’ taste, and is generally considered digestible. As
in broiling, the object is to harden the surface albumen
and so to imprison the juices of the meat. This can only be done
by making it very hot for a short time : the heat must afterwards
be lessened by drawing the joint from the fire, or by cooling the oven.
The larger the joint the smaller the fire, lest it should be burnt outside
before it is cooked enough, but it should always be hot first, and
cool afterwards. In a perfectly roasted joint, the outside albumen
should be thoroughly hardened, but inside it should only reach the
moderate heat that just coagulates the albumen and swells and softens
the fibrine ; cooked more than this, the fibre becomes hard, and separ-
ates into bundles that offer an active resistance to teeth and digestive
organs. It can scarcely happen to a large joint, but often does to a
small one, and this is the reason why a small joint is often dry and
hard. It is a sign of good meat and of good roasting to lose little in
weight. Generally speaking, the loss is more before the fire than in the
oven.
Count Rumford invented a double dripping-pan that cannot be
too strongly recommended. The water in the under pan boils and
prevents the fat in the upper pan from becoming hotter than boil-
ing water, so that the dripping is neither wasted nor burnt, and there
is no horrible odour of fat burning on the floor of the oven. These
roasting pans are among the few cooking utensils that economize their
own cost in a very short time.
ii4
HOUSEHOLD MAN AC, EMEN T
BAKING
Baking naturally comes next to roasting ; the two often do duty
for one another. As in all other methods of cookery the surrounding
air may be many degrees hotter than boiling water, but the food is
not appreciably hotter until it has lost water by evaporation, after
which it may readily burn. The hot air of the oven is greedy of water,
and evaporation is great, so that ordinary baking (i.e., just to shut
the food into a hot-air chamber) is not suited for anything that needs
moist heat. But baking often means to put some dry substance in a
dish with water and to shut it in the air chamber, and under such cir-
cumstances it amounts to much the same as boiling with surface heat
added.
To test the heat of an oven special thermometers are made. For
meat the temperature should be about 300° Fahr. ; for bread 360°,
afterwards lowered ; for pastry about the same, the richest pastry
requiring the hottest oven. The heat may be tested with a sheet of
writing paper, which curls up brown in a pastry oven, or with flour,
which takes every shade from coffee colour to black, when sprinkled
on the floor of the oven. Experienced cooks test very accurately
with the hand.
The hot air of the oven sometimes imparts disagreeable flavours
to the things cooked ; but this can be avoided by keeping the oven
scrupulously clean and having it well ventilated.
BOILING
Boiling is generally thought to be the easiest method of cooking.
Certainly nothing could be less troublesome than the simple process of
boiling or stewing meat, and yet beef tough and flavourless, or a leg
of mutton boiled to rags is the rule rather than the exception. The
success of this culinary method depends entirely upon the liquid in
which the material is immersed or partially immersed being kept at a
suitable temperature.
The temperature of boiling water at sea-level is 2120 Fahr. and ioo°
Cent. In a mine, where the level is considerably lower than that
of the sea, the water reaches a higher temperature before boiling,
because the air being more dense offers greater resistance to it ; con-
sequently the water must acquire more heat and force to overcome
this resistance before it can boil. Conversely, as we ascend a mountain
we leave behind the more dense part of the atmosphere, and the column
of air, reaching from the earth into space, becomes less in height, and
so exerts less pressure on the surface of the water, which consequently
boils at a lower temperature. But, whether the water boils gently
or is in a state of violent ebullition the temperature remains the same,
and anything immersed in the water will cook at an equal rate,
although there will be a wide difference between the tender juicy joint
INTRODUCTION TO COOKERY 115
cooked at simmering point and the tough stringy meat that has been
quickly boiled. Count Rumford, writing on this subject, said : —
“ Causing anything to boil violently in any culinary process is very
ill-judged ; for not only does it not expedite in the smallest degree the
process of cooking, but it occasions a most enormous waste of fuel,
and by driving away with the steam many of the more volatile and
more savoury particles of the ingredients renders the victuals less good
and less palatable. Five times as much heat is required to send off
in steam any given quantity of water already boiling hot as would be
necessary to heat the same quantity of the cold water to the boiling
point.”
In order to find out the right heat, we must first know which of several
substances we have to deal with, and how each one of them is acted
upon by heat.
The simplest thing to boil is an egg. The white is little more than
albumen and water ; the yolk contains albumen and water with some
oil and some sulphur, but the albumen is of a rather different character.
We have seen that albumen begins to coagulate at 145°, sets into a
jelly at 160°, and at a higher temperature quickly becomes tough and
hard. Eggs should therefore be gently boiled. Some recommend
the plan of putting the egg into a saucepan of boiling water, taking
the pan off the fire and letting it cook so. Others prefer to put the
egg in cold water and to take it off directly it boils.
In boiling lean meat we must deal with albumen again. Just as
the white of an egg hardens by boiling, so does the albumen in a leg of
mutton. Plunge it into boiling water, and on the surface an imper-
vious crust is formed that prevents the juices of the meat from escaping.
Once that is done, the boiling should cease, for the toughening of the
albumen throughout the joint is as undesirable as the escape of the
juices. Boiled meat intended for table should never be put into cold
water: firstly, because the surface albumen is dissolved, and afterwards,
when the water boils, hardens and rises as scum ; also, secondly, because
the salts and extractives are dissolved, leaving the meat dry and flavour-
less. Cold water first and fast boiling afterwards (the common way of
cooking) is the worst possible way, for the meat is not only dry, but
hard. If the meat is to be boiled for soup the object is to extract all
the j nice, the soluble albumen, and as much gelatine as may be, so that
it should be cut up to nmltiply surfaces, put into cold water, and heated
slowly to boiling point. To attain contrary ends, contrary means must
be used.
The exceptions to this rule, if any, for boiling meat are in the case of
sinewy and tendonous meat where gelatine is abundant. To make it
soft and eatable long continued boiling is necessary. Calf’s head and
feet, veal tendons, cow heel, and tripe are often put into cold water.
Flour Foods, such as macaroni, rice, sago, cornflour and flour puddings
should be kept all the time in boiling water, in order to burst the starch
n6
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
granules. The mechanical action of fast bubbling water is often
useful, partly in preventing grains of rice, etc., from settling to the
bottom of the saucepan.
Boiled Fish. — In the case of fish, the water should be kept below
bubbling point, otherwise it may crack the skin and so spoil the
appearance of the lish ; and, on the other hand, if the fish is put into
cold water, it, like meat, has much of its goodness and flavour ex-
tracted. So a compromise has to be made here, and the best plan is
to put it into water as hot as the skin will bear (which varies with
each fish), and to put salt with the water, or lemon- juice, or vinegar,
because albumen sooner coagulates if acid is added to it. Vinegar
with a poached egg answers the same purpose. Vegetables, with few
exceptions, should be put into boiling water.
STEWING
Stewing almost invariably requires a heat much below that of boiling
water : 165° is about stewing point. Whatever is stewed, parts with
much of its goodness to the surrounding liquor, which should not,
therefore, be wasted. Less liquid is used than in boiling. It is a
method particularly suitable for all gelatinous meat, such as knuckles,
heads and feet, and for all tough, fibrous meat, because long-continued,
moderate heat, with moisture, is the best way of bringing gelatine and
tough fibre into an eatable condition. It is the cheapest method of
cooking for several reasons. Little heat is required, therefore little
fuel used. Nothing is wasted ; whatever goes into the pot comes out.
The cheapest and coarsest meat can be used ; and very little attention
is needed while cooking. In order that all the juices may not be ex-
tracted from the meat it is sometimes fried before stewing ; this gives
it a good colour, and also hardens the surface albumen and prevents
the soluble matters from escaping. A stew should not bubble and
boil ; it should stand by the side of the stove, and should never do
more than bubble occasionally and leisurely at one side of a large pan.
A jar well tied down and set in a cool oven makes a capital stewing
utensil, or a jar set in a saucepan and surrounded by boiling water.
One difficulty is that carrots and turnips when they are old and tough
ought to be boiled, and so do not agree with a small piece of stewed
meat. Cooked together, one must be spoiled. It is the best plan to
boil the vegetables first, and then to use them and their liquor for the
stew.
A common mistake is to put in too much liquid. The raw meat
supplies some liquid by its own juices and many do not sufficiently
realize that at the moderate heat of stewing there is very little waste
by evaporation.
FRYING
Frying has been described as boiling in fat. It is not a correct phrase,
because the fat is not boiled, and the thing fried is not always immersed
INTRODUCTION TO COOKERY
zl7
in fat. It is the quickest mode of cooking, because melted fat or oil
can be brought to a high temperature, and, by contact with it, the
food fried is very quickly and very much heated. All fried food is
heated beyond boiling water point on its surface ; if the frying is
prolonged the meat is over heated throughout, so that this method
is not fitted for food that should be slowly cooked at a low temper-
ature, such as tough meat.
The point to which fats or oils may be heated varies, some burning
much more readily than others. About 350° to 400° is a suitable
temperature ; it can be higher, it should sometimes be lower for things
that need slow cooking, but it is usually better to begin at a high
temperature and lower it afterwards. The temperature is always
lowered, by putting in the cold things to be cooked, to a degree that is
determined by the relative quantity of fat and food, and by the sort
of food.
The temperature can be taken accurately with a thermometer con-
structed specially for the purpose ; it can be taken approximately by
several homely devices.
1. Drop in a few drops of water. If the fat bubbles thereupon, it
must be hotter than 2120 ; if it bubbles smartly it may be taken at
over 300°.
2. Drop in a piece of bread and take it out at the end of half a minute.
If the bread is crisp the fat is about 350° or more.
3. Parsley that becomes crisp immediately it is dropped in means fat
at 350° or more.
4. The more violent the bubbling when anything is put in the hotter
the fat.
5. A thin, filmy, blue smoke rises when the fat is fit for frying, and
then becomes thicker until the fat is burning, when there is a dense
cloud.
6. Fat, unless it has left off bubbling and is quite still, is never hot
enough to fry.
These rules are true of all fat, and more or less of all frying. But
there are two ways of frying, known to cooks as dry frying, and frying
in deep fat ; the later method being also known as “ French frying.”
The former is more common ; the latter is more economical, and
produces better results.
Deep frying or frying in a saucepan, means that there must be fat
enough to cover what is fried, and a pan deep enough to contain it.
It is economical, for the fat can be used over and over again, and, if
sufficiently hot, does not soak into the food fried, which consequently
comes out quite dry and without any of the greasy moisture of frying-
pan cookery. In the long run less fat is used than for ordinary dry
frying; though, of course, there is a greater outlay to begin with.
An iron or steel saucepan must be used, as the heat of the fat melts
the solder of a tin pan ; it is a good plan to keep one for the purpose.
iiS
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Frying baskets should be used for all delicate frying (see p. 302)
so as to do away with the need for much handling, and to lift all the
things out at the same moment. Failing a basket, an iron spoon or
slice may be used, but not of tin or Britannia metal, as they would
melt. Baskets should not be used for fritters, which stick to the wires.
As the basket always expands with heat, it should not be a very tight
fit for the pan.
Dry Frying is so called because of the small amount of fat used, not
because of the dryness of what is fried, for things fried this way are
very apt to be greasy. Sometimes the frying is so “ dry ” that only
just fat enough is used to prevent the meat from sticking to the pan,
just as the bars of a gridiron are greased. The iron $an is heated,
and the meat is cooked by heat directly communicated from the hot
iron. Such trying, in fact, is an imitation of broiling, and usually an
unsuccessful imitation. There should always be at least enough fat
to cover the surface of the pan, and it always should be made as hot
as possible without burning, before beginning to fry. To put cold fat
and cold pan and cold chop on the stove and let them all heat together
is always a mistake sure to result in a greasy, juiceless chop with burnt
fat. Whatever and however you fry, first heat the fat.
Fat for Frying. — Melted suet or fat can be used for French frying,
and mutton is less likely to burn than beef, but either or both together
will do. Lard should never be used, for it always leaves an unpleasant
flavour and costs more than beef or mutton fat. Oil is to be preferred
to, and can, without burning, be made hotter than any fat. Olive
oil is often recommended, but it is costly, and much of the oil sold as
olive is largely adulterated with cotton-seed oil, which is far cheaper
than any fat used as food. Unfortunately, though a great deal is sold,
not much is sold under its right name or at a fair price, except to
cookshops or to the vendors of fried fish. Many specially prepared
fats are now on the market ; they vary greatly. Some are merely
beef fat, freed from skin and blood, and melted into cakes ; these can
be used like suet. Others are solidified cotton seed oil, purified nut oil,
etc. These are sold plain or as blends. Some of them are excellent
for frying purposes, and are economical where much frying is required.
Animal fats, with the exception of refined lard, burn quicker than
vegetable fats. Butter is the soonest spoilt by high temperatures.
To clarify fat or suet for frying, it should be cut up into small pieces,
put into a saucepan with just enough water to prevent burning,
heated over a slow fire until the liquid fat is quite clear and then
strained. The pieces strained out are an economical substitute for
suet for short cakes, puddings, etc. After using several times, the
fat can be purified by pouring it whilst hot into a pan of water and
well stirring ; the pieces and impurities settle at the bottom of the
cake of fat or sink into the water. The fat should be also occasion-
ally strained when cool ; if it be strained directly after frying it will
INTRODUCTION TO COOKERY
1 19
melt any soldered strainer. To fry well the food should be dried.
Fish can be lightly coated with flour ; vegetables well-dried in a cloth.
Before dropping into hot fat anything that contains much water lift
the pan off the stove, as the fat is likely to bubble over and catch fire.
Many things that are fried are previously covered with egg and
breadcrumbs, or flour and milk or batter, in order that a crust may
be formed round them to keep the juice in and the fat out. The
essential thing is to cover them completely and leave no crack.
HINTS FOR AMATEUR COOKS.
The two most common faults with amateur cooks are not giving
sufficient time and attention to the details of preparation, and
ignorance of the varying action of heat. It is admitted that the
making of soups and sauces is a test of a good cook. Now, both soups
and sauces (with a few exceptions, which prove the rule) require very
careful preliminary preparation and close attention during cooking.
The time devoted to planning, cleaning, chopping, paring or trussing,
as the case may be, is not lost. The actual process of cooking is im-
mensely facilitated, and success half assured, if everything has been
properly prepared beforehand.
Then, as regards the utilization of heat ; it is essential in boiling
and roasting that the temperature should be very high at first, to
prevent loss of nutriment, and then be lowered to prevent the meat
being scorched and dried. In stewing, however ("and this applies to
soup making) the heat should be moderate and the cooking slow.
Frying in most cases should be done in hot fat, so a deep vessel
full of oil or fat at a very high temperature should be used. Omelets,
pancakes, and a few other preparations only require to be placed in a
pan with a little butter ; in such cases the fire should be fairly brisk.
When using an oven, if the dish requires long cooking, get up a high
temperature at first and then lower it slightly ; but pastry requires
quick cooking in a fairly brisk oven.
All dishes should be duly flavoured with the necessary condiments
during the process of cooking, except in the case of roast meats, when
salt should only be applied just before serving. Water is a solvent, so
all meat and vegetables should be plunged into fast boiling water,
unless the object is to extract flavour for making soups. Dried peas
and beans, however, should be put on in cold water, as it is necessary
to soften them.
Amateur cooks may prepare dainty breakfasts and suppers if they
give their attention to the peculiarities of electric heated stewpans,
or the still more convenient chafing-dish. The dishes prepared
in these vessels are generally of the stew or daubs order. For stews
a fairly large amount of sauce is allowed, and the cooking should be
somewhat moderate ; for daubes very little moisture is allowed and
the pan must be closely covered, apply high temperature, then lower
120
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
and finish with reduced heat. Gas as well as electric heat and the spirit
lamp can be easily regulated as desired.
For outdoor cooking (picnics and camping) the chafing-dish is
useful, but should be supplemented with a tinplate oil cooking stove,
which generally provides an oven, hot plate, and ring for kettle or
stewpan.
For emergencies a good substitute for cream can be made with
fresh milk, a little butter and flour.
If milk cannot be procured for tea and coffee, use an egg beaten
up to a froth.
If fresh- water fish is caught and has to be cooked, wash thoroughly in
clean water ; if small, fry ; if large, stew with a sauce, in which wine
or vinegar and aromatic herbs are used.
PRESERVATION OF FOOD.
An important consideration is, how food may be best preserved
with a view to its being suitably dressed. More waste is often occa-
sioned by the want of judgment, or necessary care in this particular
than by any other cause. In the absence of proper places for keeping
provisions, a hanging safe, suspended in any airy situation, is the best
substitute. A well- ventilated larder, dry and shady, is better for
meat and poultry, which require to be kept for some time ; and the
utmost skill in the culinary art will not compensate for the want of
proper attention to this particular. Though it is advisable that animal
food should be hung up in the open air till its fibres have lost some degree
of their toughness, yet, if it is kept till it loses its natural sweetness,
its flavour has become deteriorated, and, as a wholesome comestible,
it has lost many qualities conducive to health. As soon, therefore,
as the slightest trace of putrescence is detected, it has reached its
highest degree of tenderness, and should be dressed immediately.
During the sultry summer months, it is difficult to procure meat that
is not either tough or tainted. It should, therefore, be well examined
when it comes in, and if flies have touched it, the part must be cut off,
and the remainder well wiped with a clean cloth dipped in warm water
and vinegar. In loins of meat, the long pipe which runs in the cavity
of the bone should be taken out, as it is apt to taint, as also the kernels
of beef. Rumps and aitch-bones of beef, should not be purchased
when bruised.
All these things ought to enter into the consideration of every
household manager ; and great care should be taken that nothing is
thrown away, or suffered to be wasted in the kitchen, which might,
by proper management, be turned to a good account.
The shank bones of mutton, so little esteemed in general, give rich-
ness to soups or gravies, if well soaked and bruised before they are
added to the boiling liquor.
A SUPPER TABLE FOR TWO PERSONS.
73
D
INTRODUCTION TO COOKERY
121
Roast beef bones, or shank-bones of ham, make excellent stock
for soup.
When the whites of eggs are used for jelly, confectionery, or other
purposes, a pudding or a custard should be made, that the yolks may
be used.
All things likely to be wanted should be in readiness : sugars of
different sorts ; currants washed, picked, and perfectly dry ; spices
pounded, and kept in very small bottles closely corked, or in can-
isters, as we have already directed. Not more of these should be
purchased at a time than are likely to be used in the course of a
month.
Much waste is always prevented by keeping every article in the
place best suited to it.
In very cold weather, vegetables touched by the frost should be
brought into the kitchen early in the morning and soaked in cold water.
Vegetables keep best on a stone floor, if the air be excluded ; mead
in a cold, dry place ; as also salt, sugar, sweetmeats, candles, dried
meats and hams.
Rice, and all sorts of cereals for pudding, should be closely covered
to preserve them from insects ; but even this will not prevent them
from being affected by these destroyers, if they are long and carelessly
kept in a damp place.
Pears and grapes should be strung, and hung up in a cold, dry
place. Apples should be laid on straw, after being carefully wiped,
and should not touch each other. They keep better on wood than
on china.
ADULTERATION.
The Act passed in 1872 for the prevention of Adulteration of
Food, Drink and Drugs declares that persons who adulterate articles
of food, or who sell those that they know to have been adulterated,
whether with material injurious to the health or not, are punishable
with fine or imprisonment. The vendor is bound to declare such
admixture to the purchaser at the time of the sale. The inspectors
under the local authorities are directed to procure samples from time
to time, and to submit them to the public analyst.
Any purchaser may have any article of food, or drink, or drugs
analyzed by the public analyst of his district on payment of a sum
not less than half-a-crown and not more than half-a-guinea.
In olden times the prices of the chief necessaries of life were regu-
lated by authority. Such interference has long been a thing of the
past. Vendors may ask any price they please for the things they
sell, and the legislature only insists that no fraud shall be practised
on the public, and that goods shall be sold under their rightful
names.
122
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
PRICES OF FOOD
Every one nowadays will agree that the seller should fix the price
at which he will sell his wares. For the prices vary according as
the supply of the commodity in question is plentiful and the demand
great. An abundant wheat harvest is followed by cheap bread ;
but we do not all so readily understand, that not bread alone but
all perishable articles must be dear one year and cheap another.
It may sometimes happen that the fall in price never reaches the
consumer, but stops short with the wholesale or retail trader, although
this tendency is to some extent counteracted by the competition in
retail trade.
Overcharging is most likely to occur where the customers cannot
readily transfer their custom to a neighbouring shop, as, for instance,
in isolated country places, or when the customers are in debt, or under
obligation to the shopkeeper, having perhaps been supported by him
during times of scarce work. It is often for these reasons that in the
poorest and most wretched neighbourhoods the highest prices rule.
Customers are often induced by considerations of fashion or conveni-
ence to pay high prices ; but they can scarcely be said to be over-
charged, since they choose to pay for such costly luxuries as spacious
premises, handsome shop-fronts, numerous shop assistants and long
credit. Economical people are compelled to go without these and
many other things that it is pleasant to have.
DIET
But it is not only the weight and the cost that have to be studied
for economy’s sake. We have already seen that it is possible to
starve in the midst of plenty ; to starve, that is, for want of one
necessary constituent of food, though all the others may be supplied
in superabundance. A good housekeeper will, therefore, take care
that upon her table is set a variety of well-chosen food, and very often
indeed, by the exercise of a little care in dieting, she may prevent the
outlay of much care in nursing and of much money in doctors’ bills.
People suffer from diseases of mal-nutrition much more often through
bad management than because of a short purse. It will often be found,
especially with children, that they are ill for want of certain kinds of
food and yet will not take them in their ordinary form ; it is then
the part of the housekeeper to reproduce the food so that it is not
recognized, or to find the same substance in some other form.
COST AND ECONOMY
Again, two foods may cost the same and weigh the same, and yet
one may be far more economical than the other. For one may be
very nourishing, containing a kind of food that is not cheaply to
be bought, and it may besides be such that it takes up water and
INTRODUCTION TO COOKERY
123
increases in weight in the cooking. The other is a moist food, and
will lose weight before it comes to table, or it may be starchy food,
which can always be bought at a low price, or it may contain bone and
waste, which is not properly to be called food at all. One very good
contrast is afforded by a pound of rumpsteak at fourteenpence, and a
pound of beans or lentils at twopence. Both are bought for the sake
of flesh- forming, or nitrogenous, food. From neither is there actual
waste to be cut away. But the broiled meat will not weigh more than
12 ozs. when it comes to table, and the pulse will have taken up more
than its own weight of water, which costs nothing. We have two
pounds of food for twopence against three-quarters of a pound for
one and twopence.
This must always be remembered in dealing with all dry foods.
One pound of Indian meal weighs when cooked three pounds ; half
a pound of macaroni increases to two pounds, we are told by Rumford,
Comparing rice to flour, if both are the same price, flour is cheaper
because it is less starchy, and people who reckon such small economies
as these are generally ill-fed, needing flesh-formers, which are chiefly
to be found in the costlier foods.
As a third example we may take beefsteak as compared to mutton
chops : they are usually about the same price per pound, but there
can be no question which is the cheaper of the two, for the beef has no
bone and little fat.
DIGESTION
Digestion is a complicated process, and, as a rule, a slow one. It
may be interfered with either by physical short-comings such as ab-
sence of, or bad, teeth, muscular flaccidity, or nervous exhaustion, or
by functional derangements causing a deficiency in the quality
or quantity of saliva, gastric, or other secretions, which are poured into
the stomach or intestines during the process of digestion. As a rule
cooking facilitates digestion, partly by softening the food, and partly
by inducing chemical changes which would otherwise have to be in-
duced by functional activity in the stomach or intestines. In some
instances, however, cooking hardens the tissues, and so retards diges-
tion. Over roasting or quick boiling of meats usually toughens the
fibres. Fat retards digestion, as it has to undergo a long process of
emulsifying before being absorbed. Salt and spices, on the other
hand, hasten digestion by stimulating the secretion of the necessary
juices. But an over indulgence in spices of all kinds will, in the long
run, irritate the mucous membrane of the intestinal canal, induce a
congestive tendency of the secretory organs, and so produce functional
disorganization, resulting in slow and painful digestion. Over-
seasoning brings about an unhealthy condition of the liver. Too much
liquid in the stomach immediately before or while eating dilutes the
124
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
saliva and digestive juices, weakening their activity. Too long
fasting turns the natural alkalinity of the saliva to acidity,
resulting in heartburn. Coffee and tea retard digestion. They
should not be partaken of at a meal when meat is eaten to any extent.
In the aged, however, good tea is undoubtedly beneficial by reducing
tissue waste. Wines and light beers in moderation gently stimulate
digestion, but strong beers and alcohol greatly prolong the process.
Under normal conditions, it is well that the digestive process should
not be prolonged beyond four to four-and-a-half hours. For invalids
and persons with “ weak stomachs,” the time allowed should be much
less. It is, therefore, necessary to study the table of digestibility,
which has been compiled from the result of repeated experiments by
a number of doctors. It must, of course, be remembered that with
invalids, the weak, children, and aged persons, digestion is prolonged
beyond the normal indicated below.
DIGESTIVE TIME TABLE
Food
Preparation
Time
Hours
Minutes.
Apples, sweet
Raw ....
I
30
, , green
Stewed ....
I
35
Asparagus
Boiled ....
I
30
Bariev Soup
—
I
30
- ......
Boiled ....
2
o
Beans
Boiled ....
2
30
Puree ....
I
30
Beef, lean
Roasted ....
3
o
,, tender
Stewed ....
2
45
Beefsteak
Grilled ....
3
o
Beef, fresh salted
Boiled ....
2
45
,, old salted
• • •
6
o
Beets
Boiled ....
3
45
Brains
Boiled ....
I
35
Bread, fresh
Baked ....
3
30
Butter
Melted ....
3
30
Bread and Butter (with coffee) .
—
3
45
Cabbage
Roasted ....
3
30
Pickled ....
4
30
Celery
Boiled ....
I
30
Chicken
Boiled ....
2
O
,,
Fricasseed
2
45
Cheese, old
—
3
30
Custard
Boiled ....
2
45
Duck
Roasted ....
4
O
Eel
Roasted ....
6
O
INTRODUCTION TO COOKERY
DIGESTIVE TIME TABLE ( continued ).
Food.
Preparation.
Time.
Hours.
Minutes.
Eggs, fresh
Raw
2
O
Soft boiled .
3
O
Hard boiled
4
O
, , ........
Whipped (raw)
I
30
,,
Scrambled .
3
O
Fish (other than fat varieties).
Boiled ....
2
30
> > , , . .
Fried ....
3
O
Fowls
Boiled . . .
4
O
Roasted ....
4
O
Game (most kinds) ....
Roasted ....
4
15
Goose
Roasted ....
2
30
Hashed meat
Warmed
2
3n
Liver (calves’)
Fried or sauteed
2
30
.. (ox)
,, ,,
3
O
Lamb
Grilled ....
2
3°
Lentils
Boiled ....
2
3°
Milk
Raw
2
1 3
Boiled ....
2
O
Mutton
Boiled and broiled .
3
O
,, lean
Roasted ....
3
15
Nuts
—
5
O
Oysters
Raw
2
55
Stewed ....
3
30
Onions
Stewed ....
3
3°
Peas
Boiled ....
2
to
Pig, sucking
Roasted ....
2
3°
Pork, fat
Roasted ....
5
15
,, salt
Boiled ....
3
15
Potatoes .
Fried or baked
2
3°
Rice
Boiled . . .
I
O
Salad .
Raw
3
1 t
Sausage . . . . • .
Grilled ....
3
30
Smoked
S
O
Suet
Boiled
5
3°
Sago
Boiled ....
I
35
Soles
Fried
3
O
Spinach
Stewed .
I
3°
Salmon, fresh
Boiled
I
to
,, smoked
4
O
Stone Fruit
Raw ....
6
O
Tapioca
Boiled ....
2
O
Tripe .........
Boiled ....
I
O
Trout
Boiled
I
30
Turkey .
Roasted ...
2
3°
Boiled ....
2
1 ^
Turnips
Boiled ....
3
30
Veal
Roasted or grilled .
4
3°
Venison
Grilled ....
I
40
126
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
QUANTITIES AND MEASURES
AVOIRDUPOIS WEIGHT.
27i
f-Ctrains =
I
Drachm.
16
Drachms =»
I
Ounce.
16
Ounces =
I
Pound (lb.).
14
Pounds =
I
Stone.
28
Pounds =
I
Quarter (qr.).
4
Quarters =
I
Hundredwt.
20
Hundredweight =
I
Ton.
APOTHECARIES’
20 Grains = i Scruple = 20 grs.
3 Scruples = 1 Drachm = 60 ,,
8 Drachms = 1 Ounce = 480 ,,
12 Ounces = 1 Pound =5760 ,,
APOTHECARIES’ FLUID
MEASURE
60 Minims =1 Fluid Drachm.
8 Drachms = 1 Ounce.
20 Ounces =1 Pint.
8 Pints =1 Gallon.
DRY MEASURE
2 Gallons = 1 Peck (pkd.
4 Pecks = 1 Bushel (bush.),
3 Bushels = 1 Sack.
12 Sacks = 1 Chaldron.
8 Bushels = 1 Quarter (qr.).
5 Quarters = 1 Load (Id.).
LIQUID MEASURE
Apothecaries compound their medi-
cines by this weight, but buy and sell
their drugs by avoirdupois.
4 Gills = 1 Pint (pt. ).
2 Pints = 1 Quart (qt.l.
4 Quarts = 1 Gallon (gall.).
QUANTITIES AND TIME
Scales and weights for weighing are desirable in all culinary opera-
tions, but they are not indispensable ; for weights and measures have
their equivalents, as the appended tables will show. They may not
be strictly exact, but they are sufficiently so for ordinary purposes.
The " rule of thumb ” system sometimes produces very good results,
but it is uncertain, and it is better to have a rough guide than none ;
and failing weights and scales, all ingredients should be measured in
cups, spoons, or whatever utensil or vessel may be best suited to the
quantity. But whether the ingredients are intended for a cake,
pudding, soup or sauce, something more than exact weight and measure
and careful mixing is required. The recipes give precise directions as
to application of strong or gentle heat, and whether the vessels are to
remain uncovered or otherwise. If these directions be disregarded,
and soups or stews are allowed to reduce themselves by evaporation
and rapid boiling, it naturally follows that the amount of liquid allowed
for the stew is too little, and the quantity of thickening intended for
the soup will be found too much. If eggs were of uniform size, and if
flour always absorbed the same amount of liquid, it would be possible
to state precisely how many eggs or how much milk would sufficiently
moisten a given quantity of flour. As matters stand, indecisive terms
and directions are sometimes unavoidable ; occasionally something
must be left to the discretion and common-sense of the worker.
THE SCIENCE OF COOKERY
127
TABLE OF EQUIVALENTS
Measure.
1 Breakfastcupful of Water or Milk .
-1- pint.
1 Teacupful „ .
1
• 4 >>
4 Tablespoonfuls ,, .
1
* 4 >>
1 Wmeglassful ,, ,, .
1
• 8 >>
Weight.
1 Breakfastcupful of moist sugar (heaped) . . 4 lb.
I
. t
castor ,, ,, .
7 ozs.
I
tt
rice ,, ,, . .
7 ..
x
butter, lard or dripping (hpdd
7 ..
I
suet (finely chopped) ,, .
4 ..
I
.
breadcrumbs, pressed in ,, .
4 ..
I
sago, tapioca, semolina ,, .
4 ..
I
,,
flour, cornflour ,, .
4 ..
Weight.
1 Tablespoonful of suet finely chopped (heaped) . 1 oz.
1 flour „ ,, 1
1 „ moist sugar ,, 1
i- ,, golden syrup . . | ,,
1 Dessertspoonful of flour (heaped) . . -1- ,,
1 ,, moist sugar ,, .
1 ,, golden syrup (level) 1
1 ,, marmalade ,, t
1 Saltspoonful is equal to 1 teaspoonful.
1 Teaspoonful ,, 2 dessertspoonful.
1 Dessertspoonful ,, 2 tablespoonful.
6 Ordinary-sized lumps of sugar weigh . . . 1 oz.
A piece of butter or fat, about the size of a small
egg, weighs about r ,,
NOTE
It will be seen, on referring to the Recipes which follow, that by the
original method of explanation adopted, the rules for the preparation
of each dish are clearly and intelligibly indicated. We would recom-
mend the young housekeeper, cook, or whoever may be engaged in
the important task of “ getting ready ” the dinner or other meal, to
follow precisely the order in which the Recipes are given. Thus, let
them first place on their table all the Ingredients necessary ; then their
Method of preparation will be quickly and easily managed. By carefully
reading the Recipes there should not be the slightest difficulty in arrang-
ing a repast for any number of persons, and an accurate notion will be
gained of the Time required for the cooking of each dish, the periods
when it is Seasonable, and its Average Cost.
The prices are based on a careful study of the London Market lists
of the season, when the various articles are at their best. Where the
fluctuations are very considerable, the item is omitted from the cal-
culation. As stated, the prices are Average only, and must be modified
according to season, district and the supply of and demand for the
articles that may prevail.
Notes are also given on the natural history of the different animals
and various edible articles in common use, indicating their habitat,
characteristic features, and dietetic value, which from a practical,
economical and educational point of view will be found both inter-
esting and serviceable.
128
SOUPS
sd»rn-c-*ssTS iss,
8. — Hollandaise. 9.— Consomme * la Julienne. 10.— Consomm6 a la Brunoise.
SOUPS
CHAPTER VII.
General directions for making Soups and Stock, with
observations on the materials required for Soups.
Thickenings and Flavourings.
The valuable dietetic properties of soup have been, and indeed still are,
much overlooked in this country. Soup forms the first course of the
meal of those who dine in the true sense of the term, but its importance
as a part of the every day diet is not sufficiently appreciated by the
multitude in these islands. Yet no form of food is more digestible and
wholesome, nor does any other method of preparing food afford so many
opportunities for utilizing material that would otherwise be wasted.
Nearly a hundred years ago Count Rumford, the famous scientist
and founder of the Royal Institution, wrote : —
“ The richness or quality of a soup depends more upon a proper
choice of ingredients, and a proper management of the fire in the com-
bination of those ingredients, than upon the quantity of solid nutritious
matter employed ; much more upon the art and skill of the cook than
upon the sum laid out in the market.”
This remark is as true to-day as it was a century ago. The average
cook imagines that the goodness of a soup depends upon the weight of
meat she puts into it, and upon the size of the fire over which it is boiled.
It will therefore be advisable to preface this chapter with a simple
scientific account of a few of the most interesting and important facts
which relate to the food we have to prepare, and the theory and chem-
istry of the various culinary operations. This is, therefore, the proper
place to treat of the quality of the flesh of animals, and to describe some
of the conditions which affect its qualities. We will commence
with the consideration of age, and examine how far this affects the
quality of the meat.
129 p-
1 30
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
The Flesh of Animals.— During the period between the birth and
maturity of animals their flesh undergoes very considerable changes.
For instance, when the animal is young, the fluids in the tissues of the
muscles contain a large proportion of albumin and gelatin. This
albumin, which is also the chief component of the white of eggs, and is
the essential constituent of protoplasm, the physical basis of life,
possesses the peculiarity of coagulating or hardening at a certain
temperature (160° F., the cooking point of meat) like the white of a
boiled egg, and becomes no longer soluble or capable of being dissolved
in water. As animals grow older gelatin gradually decreases in pro-
portion to the fibrin (an organic compound substance which constitutes
the solid matter that is deposited when blood coagulates) and to the
other constituents of the flesh. The reason, therefore, why veal, lamb
and young pork arc white when cooked is that the large quantity of
albumin contained in the fibres hardens, or becomes coagulated. The
chief characteristic of young meat is the. great proportion of gelatin
contained in those parts that afterwards become hard or bony.
The quality of the flesh of animals is influenced considerably by the
nature of the food on which they have been fed, for the food supplies
the material which produces the flesh. If the food is not suitable and
good, the meat will necessarily be inferior. The flesh of animals fed
on farinaceous produce, as corn, pulse, etc., is firm, well-flavoured and
also economical in the cooking ; the flesh of those fed on juicy and pulpy
substances, as roots, possesses these qualities in a somewhat less degree ;
but the flesh of those whose food contains fixed oil, as linseed, is greasy,
high-coloured and gross in the fat, and if such food has been used in
large quantities, will have a rank flavour.
Health of Animals. — It is indispensable to cue good quality of meat
that the animal should be perfectly healthy when slaughtered. How-
ever slight the disease in an animal may be, inferiority in the quality
of its flesh as food is certain to follow. In many cases, indeed,
the flesh of diseased animals has a tendency to very rapid putre-
faction, and becomes not only unwholesome, but absolutely poisonous
to those who eat it.
The Treatment of the Animal before it is Slaughtered is another circum-
stance which greatly affects the quality of meat, and has an important
influence on its value and wholesomeness. This will be readily under-
stood if we consider the laws in accordance with which the life of an
animal is supported and maintained. These are the digestion of its
food and the assimilation of that food into its substance. Nature in
effecting this process, first reduces the food in the stomach to a state
of pulp, under the name of chyme, which passes into the intestines,
and is there divided into two principles, each distinct from the other.
One, a milk-white fluid — the nutritive portion — is absorbed by the
innumerable vessels which open upon the mucous membrane, or inner
SOUPS
131
coat of the intestines. These vessels, or absorbents, discharge the
fluid into a common duct, or road, along which it is conveyed to the
blood, thus supplying it with materials whereby the various tissues
are nourished. The blood having circulated through all parts,
and having had its waste repaired by the digested food, is now
received into the heart, and by the action of that organ it is urged
through the lungs, there to receive its purification from the air
which the animal inhales. Again returning to the heart, it is forced
through the arteries, and thence distributed by the innumerable ramifi-
cations of the minute blood-vessels, called capillaries, to every part of
the animal, imparting life and nutriment. The other principle — the
innutritive portion — passes from the intestines out of the system. It
will now be clearly seen how flesh is injuriously affected if an animal is
slaughtered when the circulation of its blood has been increased by
over-driving, ill-usage or any other cause of excitement, to such a degree
that the capillaries cannot perform their functions properly, thus caus-
ing the blood to be congealed in its minuter vessels. Where this has
been the case, the meat will be dark-coloured and become rapidly
putrid, so that self-interest and humanity alike dictate kind and gentle
treatment of all animals destined to serve as food for man.
THE CHEMISTRY AND ECONOMY OF SOUP
MAKING.
The Basis of all Meat Soups.— Stock forms the basis of all meat soups
and of the principal sauces ; but except the rich clear stock used for
consomme (or clear soup), it is not necessarily made from fresh
meat. In making brown stock from the shin of beef, white stock from
the knuckle of veal, or ordinary stock from the bones and the trimmings
of meat, poultry, etc., the methods employed for completely extracting
from the materials all their nutriment and flavour are the same : the
result depends upon the quality and kind of material employed, and
the length of time the simmering is continued. Five or six hours will
extract from the materials all that is necessary and desirable for stock
intended for clear soup ; but many more hours of gentle simmering will
be necessary to draw from the bones all the goodness they contain.
In France, and indeed throughout the Continent generally, a stock-pot
will be found in every peasant's kitchen. By its means, the basis of
many a delicious meal can be provided from materials that would lie
wasted in the average middle class household in Britain.
The component parts of meat are : albumin, myosin (contained in
all muscle fibres), fibrin, gelatin, fat, alkaline salts and certain ex-
tractives known as osmasome, which give to flesh its characteristic
agreeable flavour.
132
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Albumin. — Albumin is the most valuable nutritive substance con-
tained in meat ; it and its allied substance myosin are soluble in cold
water, but coagulate or harden almost immediately they come in
contact with boiling water, or with water a tew degrees below boiling
point ; and it is the knowledge of these important facts which enables
us to retain the juices in the meat in roasting and boiling, and extract
all the goodness from it in making soup. The chemistry of this will
be easily understood by minutely examining the thread-like fragments
of meat that have been subjected to a long process of boiling. In the
raw condition each separate fibre was intermixed with and surrounded
by albumin, myosin, etc. In making stock, the meat is cut up into
rather small pieces in order to expose a larger surface to the action of
the water. II put into cold water and allowed to stand for some time
the soluble substances, albumin, myosin, osmasome and salts are ex-
tracted. The salts and extractives (certain nitrogenous crystalline
bodies) being readily soluble are dissolved at once, the albumin and
myosin dissolve slowly and the gelatin becomes softened. When heat
is applied its first gentle effect is to hasten the dissolving and softening
processes, but as it approaches boiling point the albumin and myosin
coagulate and appear as brown particles on the surface of the stock.
The connective tissue which surrounds and binds the thread-like fibres
together dissolves under the influence of heat, and yields gelatin to the
stock. Should the mistake of putting the meat into boiling water be
made the albumin on the surface of each piece of meat would immedi-
ately harden and imprison the juices of the meat, and thus protect them
and the fibres from the softening and dissolving influence of the water.
Consequently the stock would be thin and poor.
Gelatin. — The best stock and the best beef tea are not necessarily
those which, when cold, form a jelly. The properties to which beef
tea owes its valuable stimulating power are not derived from gelatin,
but from the juices of the meat ; of which juices more can be extracted
from a beef-steak cut from a recently-killed animal, than from one that
has been hung for some time, and yet obtained in a much larger pro-
portion from any kind of beef-steak than from the highly gelatinous
shin of beef. Juicy beef produces well-flavoured, stimulating beef tea,
but such a liquid, strained of its floating particles of coagulated albumin,
has no value as a food, and notwithstanding its rich flavour of meat
would be regarded as too thin and watery to form the basis of a good
consomme, which must combine both flavour and substance. There-
fore, in making stock, the extraction of the juices of meat by the
process already indicated, should be followed by a long, slow simmering to
soften and dissolve the connective tissue, tendons, etc., which yield a
more transparent gelatin than that extracted from bones. Gelatin
not only gives substance to the stock, but also makes it more nourishing,
if that point need be considered in a liquid forming the basis of a con-
SOUPS
133
somme generally used as a prelude to a dinner in which meat and
poultry play an important part. Gelatin in this form is more useful to
those who cannot eat much meat or other albuminoid food, as the
nitrogen of the gelatin replaces the nitrogen of albumin, in the form-
ation of many digestive and other secretions of the body, if not in its
constructive processes.
Extractives. — It is to the changes the extractives undergo during the
process of cooking that meat owes much of its flavour, particularly the
outside of roast meat. The flesh of old animals contains more of these
substances than that of young ones ; brown meats contain more than
white, and consequently give a richer, if a less delicate, flavour to the
stock.
CLASSIFICATION OF SOUPS.
Although there are between five and six hundred different kinds of
soup, they can be broadly divided into a few distinct classes, namely,
broths, clear soups, thick soups and purees ; each group may be divided
and sub-divided, but it will be more convenient to consider them under
this simple classification.
Broths.— The unclarified liquor in which chicken, veal, beef, mutton,
rabbit or sheep’s head is cooked are included in this class. They
are frequently garnished with pearl-barley or rice, but they are not
thickened.
Clear Soups. — The basis of good clear soups is double stock, that is,
a good beef stock which has been strengthened with veal to give it
gelatinous substance, and with fowl to improve the flavour. The clear
soups include all those which are transparent in appearance, varying
in colour from amber to nut-brown. Additions may be made to them
as a garniture or decoration, from which they take their distinctive
name. Some of the garnitures and flavouring in common use are :
vegetables; “shaped,” i.e. cut into various shapes or devices; dice,
or small cubes of cooked game, chicken, meat and fish ; quenelles of
meat, fish and chicken ; finely shredded vegetables ; various farinaceous
preparations as Italian paste, semolina, rice, sago and batters.
Thick Soups. — The basis of soups of this class may be stock of any
kind, white, brown, fish or vegetable, according to the soup required,
or a mixture of white stock and milk for such soups as Potage a la
Royal and Potage a la Bonne Femme ; or all milk, or milk and water
for such plain thick soups as cabbage and vegetable soups. Soups of
this class are frequently garnished as well as being thickened ; the well-
known ox-tail and mock turtle soups may be given as examples. Thick
soups owe their thickening to the addition of arrowroot, cornflour,
rice-flour, flour, or some other farinaceous substance ; rich soups, such
as “ Bonne Femme,” are thickened by a liaison or combination of
134
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
yolks of eggs and cream, while a good brown soup like “ Ox Tail ”
would be thickened with butter and Hour, previously either cooked or
well kneaded together. In making hare soup the blood of the animal
is frequently used : it should be strained into the soup a few minutes
before serving. Thick soups should have the same consistency as good
single cream, i.e. cream obtained from milk that has stood 12 hours.
Purees. — This class of soups differs from other thick soups in being
thickened by the ingredients of which they are made, such as Bisque
of Lobster, purees of peas, beans and lentils ; in all cases the sub-
stances comprising the soup are rubbed through a sieve and served in
the soup. Croutons of bread are usually used with purees.
Puree, Fr. — A smooth pulp, thick soup, mashed vegetables. Meat or fish that has been cooked,
pounded in a mortar, and passed through a sieve is also called a puree.
Vegetarian Soups. — A soup made of milk and cabbage, lettuce or
mixed vegetables, may not please the English palate so well as the more
expensive consomme, but it contains as much nourishment, and if in
itself it had no food value whatever it would still be a useful addition
to a meal of cold meat. A few words will explain this. Food serves
the twofold purpose of maintaining the heat of the body and of sup-
plying force or strength. A want of food produces not only a sense of
hunger, but also a sensation of cold. If a meal of cold meat be
taken, a part of the latent heat contained in it will be spent in raising
the temperature of the food to that of the body, consequently less food
will be available for the production of heat and energy. Some hot
soup taken at the commencement of the meal would not only have
strengthened the stomach and made it better able to receive the sub-
stantial food to follow, but it would by its own heat have quickly raised
the temperature of the food it became mixed with. Soups made from
peas, beans and lentils, being very rich in carbo-hydrates, contain so
much nourishment that they ought to be eaten in the place of meat
instead of with it : every economical housewife should know the value
of these soups. Mattieu Williams, speaking of vegetable soups, says :
“ I must add a few words in advocacy of the further adoption in this
country of the French practice of using as potage the water in which
vegetables generally (excepting potatoes) have been boiled. When we
boil cabbages, turnips, carrots, etc., we dissolve out of them a very
large proportion of their saline constituents ; salts which are absolutely
necessary for the maintenance of health ; salts without which we be-
come victims of gout, rheumatism, lumbago and gravel.”
Flavourings for Soups. — The following list of flavourings simply enu-
merates those most commonly used and conveniently obtained : tur-
nips, carrots, onions, celery, parsley, thyme, bay-leaf (parsley, thyme
and bay-leaf are usually tied together and spoken of as a " bouquet-
garni”), tarragon, chervil, tomatoes, celery seeds, cloves, wine,
cine gars of various kinds, and lemon juice.
sours
135
Seasoning for Soups. — In addition to salt and pepper, which form the
ordinary seasonings for soups, and which must be added with caution,
nutmeg, allspice, mace, sugar and cinnamon are used, but in all
cases judgment and discretion must be exercised, as an overdose of
any one of the above ingredients may spoil the best soup.
The exact quantity of liquid needed in making soup cannot, speaking
generally, be given, so much depends on the rate of cooking, and
whether the lid of the saucepan is kept on to prevent waste by evapora-
tion. If the liquid becomes greatly reduced by rapid boiling but has
been closely covered, the contents of the saucepan have merely become
concentrated in strength and flavour, and water may be added to make
up the original quantity. Should the liquid, by being allowed to
boil in an uncovered saucepan, have wasted its strength and flavour,
sufficient stock, milk, or whatever formed the basis of the soup,
must be added to make up the original strength and quantity. The
inexperienced cook should take this lesson to heart— Cooking cannot be
Hastened, If the preparations for dinner have been somewhat delayed
nothing is gained by placing the saucepan containing the soup, stew,
or meat on the top of a fierce fire. When once the slow-boiling or
simmering point has been reached all excess of heat is wasted, and the
benefit of slow progressive cooking is lost.
STOCK.
The following information and directions will be found useful in
the making of stock.
1. Beef makes the best brown stock, but it lacks gelatinous substance ;
therefore stock for good consomme, or clear soup, should be made of
beef and veal, and a fowl, or part of a fowl added to give it an additional
flavour.
2. White stock is usually made from veal, bones and remains of
poultry and calves’ feet. The liquor in which calves’ head or fowls
has been boiled makes excellent white stock.
3. Stock meat should be as lean and as fresh as possible. Never wash
meat unless obliged, as it deprives its surface of all the juices. It should
be cut into small pieces, in order to multiply the surfaces to be exposed
to the softening and dissolving influences of the water.
4. The usual allowance of water is 1 quart to each lb. of meat. This
may, however, be too large a quantity if the stock is very gently sim-
mered and kept covered the whole time ; on the other hand, if cooked
too quickly, or if by careless exposure the evaporation is excessive, the
amount specified may not be sufficient.
5. The meat should be allowed to stand in the water for a little time
in order to dissolve the soluble constituents ; heat should be applied
gradually until the stock reaches the boiling point ; when the scum
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
136
thrown up by boiling has been removed, the stock should be reduced
to, and kept at, simmering point.
6. The vegetables must be whole or in large pieces, and be added after
the stock has boiled and the scum has been removed. They should be
used very sparingly so as not to overpower the flavour of the meat. To
4 quarts of water, 1 carrot, 1 onion, \ a turnip and 1 short strip of celery
should be allowed, also a teaspoonful of salt and 12 peppercorns ;
ground pepper should never be used, as it makes stock and clear soup
cloudy.
7. The stock should simmer very gently for 5 or 6 hours, with the stock-
pot covered to prevent waste by evaporation. When ready, it should
be strained through a hair sieve into a large basin, and the meat and
sediment at the bottom of the stewpan be put back into the stock pot.
8. When cold, the fat should be removed from the surface.
MANAGEMENT OF A HOUSEHOLD STOCK-POT.
For most cooking operations stock is in constant demand to form the
basis of a soup, a sauce or gravy. Recipes for making excellent stocks
(including white stock or blond de Veau, and a good brown stock) are
given on the following pages. The stock-pot should supply stock for
sauces, stews and gravies, and we will now indicate how a careful cook
can always have stock on hand with little or no extra expense.
The first consideration is the stock-pot. A well-tinned stock-pot
with a tap is to be recommended ; the tap permits the stock to be drawn
off without any admixture of grease, all the fat rising to the top of the
stock-pot. For small households the earthenware stock-pot will be
found useful, as a very small amount of heat is required to keep its
contents at simmering point.
The materials that may be put into the stock-pot are bones and the
trimmings of meat, cooked or uncooked ; poultry, giblets, poultry bones,
game bones, the rinds and bones of bacon, the remains of gravies, but
not sauces thickened with flour — the latter make the stock cloudy.
Scraps of raw vegetables, if fresh and suitable, may be added in cold
weather ; cooked vegetables must not be used for they are liable to
turn sour, especially in warm weather.
Fat should never be put into the stock-pot, but marrow from bones
is often introduced in small quantity. Flour and anything thickened
with flour or potatoes must also be carefully excluded.
When using a metal stock-pot the stock should be emptied and
strained every night into an earthenware vessel. In starting it the
following morning the pieces of meat and bones from which all the good-
ness has been extracted should be discarded, and the rest returned to
the stock-pot with the stock or fresh water.
Fresh meat used for stock need not be washed, but should be wiped
with a damp cloth before being cut up.
SOUPS
137
Any unused stock should be boiled up every day in hot weather,
and in cooler weather every second or third day.
MEAT GLAZE.
Any kind of rich meat stock, especially such as contains a good pro-
portion of gelatinous substance, can be reduced to half glaze, or glaze
gravy that sets to the thickness of jelly. This is effected by rapid
boiling, and frequent skimming to ensure its being clear, until the
desired consistency has been reached.
Glaze is used for improving the appearance of meats, galantines,
pies, etc., and is very handy for enriching soups and sauces, which
frequently require additional strength and flavour.
GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR RECIPES FOR SOUPS.
The vegetables named in the recipes are supposed to be of moderate
size, but two smaller ones, or half a larger one may be used instead.
To avoid repetition, they are spoken of as “ prepared,” meaning that
the onions have been peeled, the carrots scraped and the turnips pared.
As the fibre on the outside of the turnip is very tough and thick
it is advisable, and not extravagant, to take off a thick paring.
On the other hand, potatoes should be pared as thinly as possible,
because the outer part contains the most valuable and nutritious part
of the potato.
A bouquet-garni is a small bunch of mixed herbs, such as parsley,
thyme, bay-leaf, basil and majoram. Sparingly used, these herbs
improve the flavour of many soups, but they are not essential, and one
or more of them may be omitted if they cannot be easily procured.
The following table of equivalents will enable the cook to dispense
with scales in making many of the soups given in the following pages.
TABLE OF EQUIVALENTS
MEASURE.
Flour i tablespoonful (heaped) ....
Rice 1 ,, (level)
Semolina 1 ,, ,,
Tapioca and Sago 1 ,, ,,
A piece of butter or fat, the size of a small egg ....
Tumbler, } pint. Breakfast Cup, -J- pint. Tea Cup, £
WEIGHT.
. 1 oz.
• 1 >>
• 1 ..
1 ,,
1 >>
pint.
RECIPES FOR SOUPS.
CHAPTER VIII.
Stock, broths, clear soups, thick soups, purees, fish
soups, and miscellaneous soups.
Stocks for all Kinds of Soup.
1. — BONE STOCK.
Any kind of bones, cooked or uncooked, may be used to make bone
stock. Put them in a small stew-pan or small stock-pot, add enough
water to well cover, and bring to the boil. Skim, add a peeled onion, a
carrot and a bay-leaf, and simmer for 2 or 3 hours. Season to taste with
salt. This stock may be used in place of water for making gravy,
soups, and sauces.
2. — BROWN STOCK. (Very good).
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of shin or neck of beef, 1 lb. of knuckle of veal,
3 or 4 lb. of bones (beef and veal), the necks, cleaned feet, the gizzards
and livers of a chicken or a fowl, 2 carrots, 2 onions, 1 turnip, a strip
of celery, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme bay-leaf), 12 peppercorns,
4 cloves, 1 tablespoonful of salt, 8 quarts of water.
Method. — Cut up the meat, and break the bones into small pieces ;
cover with cold water, put in the salt and let it stand for an hour, then
bring gently to boiling point. Remove the scum as it rises, and when
quite clear put in the herbs and vegetables, which should previously
have been prepared, and cut into large pieces, or if small, left whole ;
if they are cut small and break up, they are apt to make the stock
cloudy. Let the stock boil up after putting in the vegetables and skim
well, then put on the lid, draw to the side of the stove and simmer
very gently for 5 or 6 hours. Any fat which rises to the surface
during the process of simmering should be carefully skimmed off with
a spoon. When sufficiently cooked, strain the stock through a hair
sieve into a basin, and when cold take off the fat, which can be clarified
and used for frying. The meat and bones should be covered with
water and boiled down for “ second ” or “ ordinary ” stock.
Stock made according to this recipe could, after being cleared, be used
138
STOCKS FOR ALL KINDS OF SOUP 139
for any clear soup, which would take its name from the garnish served
with it.
Time. — 6 hours. Average Cost, is. per quart.
This should produce about 6 quarts of stock.
3. — BROWN STOCK. (Economical).
Ingredients. — 4 lb. of raw or cooked bones, the neck, cleaned feet,
gizzards and liver of a chicken, the bones and rind of ham or bacon,
2 onions sliced, 2 carrots sliced, 1 turnip sliced, a strip of celery cut
into small pieces, 2 ozs. of butter or sweet dripping, 12 peppercorns,
2 cloves, 1 tablespoonful of salt, and 1 quart of water to each lb. of
meat and bone.
Method.— Clean and peel the vegetables. Make the fat hot in a large
stewpan, chop or break the bones into small pieces, drain the vegetables
thoroughly. Place the bones, herbs and vegetables in the hot fat,
put on the cover of the stewpan, and fry gently until the whole is quite
brown, stirring and turning the ingredients occasionally to prevent
anything becoming overcooked. Put in the cold water, salt, pepper-
corns and cloves, let it come gently to the boil, and remove the scum
as it rises. When clear, put on the cover and simmer gently for 5 or 6
hours. Some of the fat used in frying will rise to the surface during
the process of simmering and should be taken off with a spoon. When
done, strain through a sieve into a large basin, and when cold, remove
the fat.
Soup made from this stock may not have the transparent brilliancy
of that made from the previous recipe, but if gently simmered and care-
fully cleared it is quite good enough for ordinary purposes. Frying the
bones and vegetables before adding the water greatly improves the
flavour and colour.
Time. — 6 hours. Average Cost, 6d. per quart.
1 lb. of solid material employed for stock should produce about
\\ pints of stock.
4. — BROWNING FOR STOCK.
The best way to get brown stock is to fry the meat and bones
in a little fat, as directed in the foregoing recipe. Another way to
colour stock or any kind of soup or sauce is to add a few drops of
caramel. This is obtained by boiling + a lb. of loaf sugar with | a
gill of water until it is a dark brown, almost blamr colour. Then add
a gill of cold water, and boil again till it acquires the consistency of
thick syrup. Put it in a bottle and use as required; it will keep for any
length of time.
5. — FISH STOCK,
Ingredients. — 2 lb, of any inexpensive white fish, such as plaice cr
140
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
flounders (the bones and trimmings of fish will serve), i onion sliced, a
blade of mace, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 12 white
peppercorns, 1 teaspoonful of salt, 2 quarts of water.
Method. — Put all the ingredients together into a clean stewpan, and
simmer gently for 1 hour from the time the stock begins to cook, when
all that is desirable will have been extracted. Further cooking some-
times imparts a disagreeably bitter taste to the stock. The stock
should be well skimmed, strained, and put into a basin For thick
soups and sauces it is ready for immediate use, but for clear fish stock
(which is very rarely used), it would be necessary to clarify it with the
whites and shells of eggs, allowing 4 to each quart of stock.
Time. — 1 hour. Average Cost, 6d. per quart. Quantity, about 3 pints
of stock.
6. — GRAVY STOCK.
Chop up, rather small, some bones from roast meat, fry them till
brown in a pan with a little dripping; pour off all the fat, and add
enough stock or water to cover the bones. Season with salt and
pepper, and boil for half an hour. Strain and use as required.
7. — SECOND STOCK.
The bones and meat used for making stock, and the meat used for
clearing consomme (clear soup) should be covered with cold water
and cooked lor several hours to make what is known as “ second,”
or “ ordinary ” stock. Neither seasoning nor flavouring is added, as
this second stock forms the basis of soups, stews, and sauces which
have a distinct flavour of their own.
8. — VEGETABLE STOCK.
Ingredients. — 3 carrots, 2 onions, 1 turnip, 2 tomatoes, 1 stick of celery,
1 head of lettuce, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), a blade
of mace, 12 peppercorus, 2 cloves, 3 ozs. of butter, 2 quarts of water,
1 teaspoonful of salt.
Method. — Cut the onions, turnips and carrots into thin slices, and the
celery into small pieces. Make the butter hot in a stewpan, put in the
vegetables and fry gently for -J- an hour, keeping the stewpan covered.
In the meantime shred the lettuce, and when the vegetables are suffi-
ciently cooked, add it, together with the tomatoes (sliced), herbs, flavour-
ings, seasonings and water, and bring gently to the boil. Skim off
the scum as it rises, then cover and simmer gently for i|- hours, strain,
and it is ready for use.
Time. — 2 hours. Average Cost, sd. per quart. Quantity, about 2
quarts.
STOCKS FOR ALL KINDS OF SOUP 141
9. — WHITE, or VEAL STOCK. (Fr.— Blond de Veau.)
Ingredients. — 4 lb. of knuckle of veal, the neck and cleaned feet of
a chicken, the bones of a chicken (or one shilling’s worth of veal bones
and an old fowl), 2 carrots, 2 onions, 1 turnip, 1 strip of celery, bouquet-
garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 12 peppercorns, 2 cloves, 1 table-
spoonful of salt, 1 quart to each lb. of meat and bone.
Method. — Cut up the meat and break the bones into small pieces,
put them into a large stewpan with the salt and water, and let them
stand for about 1 hour. Bring gently to boiling point, remove the
scum as it rises, and when the stock is quite clear put in the herbs and
vegetables, which should previously have been prepared and cut into
large pieces, or if small left whole. Let the stock boil up after putting
in the vegetables and skim well until clear, then put on the cover, draw
the pan to the side of the stove and simmer very gently for 5 or 6 hours,
taking care to skim off the fat as it rises. When sufficiently cooked,
strain off, and when cold remove the fat.
Time. — 6 hours. Average Cost, is. per quart. Quantity, — 4 quarts.
Note. — The liquor in which chicken, veal, rabbit, calf’s head or mutton has
been boiled makes excellent stock for white soups ; and the cold remains of any
of these ingredients may be made into second stock, which, if not very rich,
is obviously better than water in making the inexpensive white soups.
10. — TO CLARIFY STOCK FOR CLEAR SOUP, or
CONSOMME
The following is a simple way by which any cloudy stock can
be clarified or rendered transparent. Peel, wash and cut up small the
following prepared vegetables: £ an onion or \ a leek, 1 small
carrot, a piece of celery or some celery leaves ; put these into a
clean and dry stewpan, with a iprig of thyme and marjoram, a
sprig or two of tarragon, chervil, 6 peppercorns, the white and
shell of an egg (the egg shell must be clean), a little lemon-juice
and a teaspoonful of vinegar. Stir this with a whisk, and add \ to
| of a lb. of finely-chopped lean beef, moistened with a little cold water,
then put in the stock (2 to 3 quarts), which should be cold and free
from fat. Bring it to the boil whilst whisking, remove from the fire,
and let it simmer gently for about 20 to 30 minutes. Season to taste
with salt, etc., and strain through a cloth.
Average Cost, is. 6d. per quart.
The Laurel, or Bay (Fr. laurier). — There are two varieties of the laurel chiefly cultivated in
gardens, the sweet bay — the noble or victor’s laurel, whose berry-bearing sprays were used in classic
times to decorate competitors in the national games — and the common or cherry-laurel, which is not
a true laurel, whose leaves are employed for their kernel-like flavour, for blanc-manges, custards,
puddings, etc. By the action of water upon the leaves of the cherry-laurel prussic acid is developed ;
care should therefore be taken to use the leaves with great moderation.
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
14-
BrOthS.
11. — BEEF BROTH. (Fr.~ Croute-au-pot.)
Ingredients. -2 quarts of good first stock (see Recipe No. 3, p. 139),
1 carrot, 1 turnip, \ a cabbage, 2 ozs. of butter, 1 dinner roll, parsley
or chives, pepper, salt, and nutmeg to season.
Method. — The stock should be made from beef and veal bones, well
skimmed, but not necessarily clarified. The vegetables, after being
washed and pared, may be cooked whole in the stock-pot.
Cut the carrot and turnip into round slices, drain the cabbage and
cut it into small pieces. Put all the vegetables in a stewpan with the
butter, cover, and cook slowly for about 10 minutes. Season with
pepper, salt, and a little grated nutmeg. Strain the stock on to the
vegetables, let them simmer for about 30 minutes, and skim occasion-
ally. Cut the roll into thin round slices, place them on a baking sheet,
bake them on both sides a golden brown in a moderate oven, put them
in a soup tureen, moisten with a little stock, pour the soup over, sprinkle
over with a little chopped parsley or chives, and serve.
Average Cost.— 2s. 6d. Seasonable at all times. Sufficient for 6 or 8
persons.
The Carrot (Ft. carotle) is a biennial plant of the natural order Umbelli/erae. In its natural state
the root is small, tapering, of a white colour, and strongly flavoured. It is indigenous to Britain and
most parts of Europe, was cultivated in England as early as the sixteenth century, and has also
been grown in North America and China. The cultivated variety of the carrot varies in colour from
pale-yellow to orange-red, the latter being the more esteemed. The carrot is not very nutritive,
containing but few flesh-forming constituents ; it has, however, a large proportion of saccharine
matter. It is slightly laxative. The leaves of the carrot have an elegant feathery appearance, and
a pretty winter ornament may be made by placing the cut top of a carrot in a shallow vessel of water,
when the young leaves will spring forth, and grow with a pleasant freshness.
12. — BOUILLON (BEEF BROTH).
This is the same as Pot-au-feu (see Recipe No. 17, p. 144), using the
broth, which should be seasoned and served in cups, with a few
thin sippets of bread, and a little finely-chopped parsley.
13. — CHICKEN BROTH. (F>.-Bouillon de Volaille.)
Ingredients. — 1 chicken, 2 quarts of cold water, 1 small onion, 1 tea-
spoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 1 blade of mace, 1 tablespoonful
of rice (this may be omitted), salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the chicken into small pieces, break the bones, scald
and skin the feet and gizzard, and wash the neck*and liver. Put these
into a stewpan, add the water and \ a teaspoonful of salt, bring to the
boil, and skim. Add the onion and mace, and cook slowly for 3 hours,
Strain, return to the stewpan, bring to the boil, sprinkle in the rice,
and simmer for 20 minutes. Add the parsley, season to taste, and serve.
Time. — 3J to 4 hours. Average Cost, 3s. Seasonable at any time.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
RECIPES FOR BROTH
143
14. — CHICKEN BROTH, CHIFFQNADE STYLE.
(jFY. — Consomme de Volaille a la Chiffonade.)
Ingredients. — A small fowl, 3 quarts of white stock (see Recipe No.
9, p. 141), 3 ozs. of butter, 2 leeks, a bouquet-garni (parslejq thyme,
bay-leaf), 1 long lettuce, a handful of sorrel, -} a handful of chervil,
pepper and salt.
Method. — Cut the fowl into small joints, put 2 ozs. of butter in a
stewpan, when hot put in the pieces of chicken, season with salt and
pepper and fry slightly brown, add the stock, boil up and skim. Next
add a small bunch of parsley, the bouquet-garni, and the leeks (previ-
ously dressed). Simmer gently for 2 hours. Wash the sorrel, chervil
and lettuce (use the tender leaves only of the latter), cut all these
vegetables into very fine strips, put them together with 1 oz. of butter
in a stewpan, stir gently over a fire for 10 minutes, moisten with some
of the broth, skim and cook for 15 minutes. Strain the remainder of
the broth into this and season to taste. Cut some neat pieces of chicken
and put into a tureen, pour in the soup, and serve.
Time. — 3 hours. Average Cost. — 6s. Sufficient for 8 persons.
Chervil (Fr. cerjeuil). — The leaves of this plant are used for salads and as an ingredient m soups.
It is native to some of the countries of Europe, and has become naturalized in England. There are
different varieties of the chervil, the parsnip-chervil, sweet chervil, anise chervil, great chervil. Culti-
vated chervil may be distinguished from the common wild chervil, which is poisonous, by the pleasant
aromatic fragrance of its leaves, those of the wild variety having a disagreeable smell.
15. — COCKIE LEEKIE. (Fr. — Soupe aux Poireaux.)
Ingredients. — 2 quarts of good white stock, 1 small fowl, a bunch of
leeks, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), salt and pepper,
2 tablespoonfuls of cooked, well-dried rice, 2 ozs. of butler.
Method. — Cut the fowl into small joints. Melt the butter in a stew-
pan, and fry the pieces of fowl until nicely browned. Pour off the
butter, add the stock, boil up slowly, and remove the scum as it rises.
Wash the leeks, cut off the green parts, parboil them in salt and water,
and drain well. Strain the soup after it has cooked for \ an hour,
return it to the saucepan, add the leeks, herbs, and the meat of the fowl
cut into dice or cubes. Simmer gently for i hour, then take out the
herbs. Skim off the fat, add the cooked rice, salt and pepper to taste,
and serve.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, 3s. to 3s. 6d. without the
stock. Seasonable in the Autumn. Sufficient for 10 persons.
Note. — Without the fowl the above, which would then be merely called
leek soup, is very good, and also economical.
The Leek (Fr. : Porreau). — This is a perennial culinary vegetable of the genus Allium or onion
but of a milder flavour. The stem of the leek is somewhat tall, and its large compact balls of flowers
are supported on purple peduncles. The leek has been cultivated in Britain from the earliest times,
and was a favourite article of food of the ancient Egyptians. It is specially cultivated in Scotland
and Wales. The leek is the badge of the Welsh, tradition ascribing to St. David, the patron saint of
Wales, its introduction to that part of Britain The leek is a most wholesome vegetable, and is largely
used for soups and stews.
144
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1 6. — FRENCH FAMILY SOUP. {Ft.— Croute au Pot.)
Ingredients. — 2 quarts of good beef stock, 1 carrot, \ a turnip, \ a
small cabbage, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 2 ozs. of butter,
salt and pepper, nutmeg, 1 dinner roll.
Method. — Parboil the cabbage, carrot and turnip, and drain well.
Cut the cabbage into small pieces, and the other vegetables into small
rounds or squares. Melt the butter in a large stewpan, put in the
vegetables, season with salt, pepper, and a little nutmeg, cover and
cook slowly for about 10 minutes. Add the stock and simmer gently
for ^ an hour. Cut the roll into thin round slices, brown them in
the oven, then put them into the tureen, and add the chopped parsley.
Season the soup if necessary, and serve.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. Seasonable at any time.
Sufficient for 8 persons.
Parsley (Fr. persil). — This well-known culinary vegetable, with its fresh crisp aromatic leaves,
has been long cultivated for seasoning and garnishing dishes. Its native country is uncertain, but
it was known to the Greeks, who awarded a crown of parsley to victors in the Nemaean and Isthmian
games ; and the poet Anacreon uses this herb as the symbol of joy and festivity. It was probably
introduced into Britain during the sixteenth century. There are several varieties of parsley, the
curled-leaved, celery-leaved, and Hamburg-parsley ; the more curled varieties are used for
garnishing. Celery-leaved parsley is sometimes grown for its leaf stalks, which are blanched and used
in the same manner as celery. Hamburg-parsley is cultivated only for its roots, which are eaten with
meat as parsnips or carrots.
17. — FRENCH) HOTCH POTCH. (Fr.— Pot-au-Feu.)
Ingredients. — 5 quarts of cold water, 4 lb. of brisket, rump, or leg of
beef (not the shin, which is too tough for this purpose), 3 onions, 2
leeks, 2 carrots, 1 turnip, 1 parsnip, 1 small head of celery, 1 small
cabbage, 20 peppercorns, 4 cloves, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme,
bay-leaf), 1 dessertspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, salt and pepper,
1 or 2 French rolls.
Method.— Tie the meat to keep it in shape, and put it and the water
into a large stewpan (an earthenware one with a close-fitting lid answers
admirably). When it boils, add a dessertspoonful of salt and let it
simmer gently for 2 hours. Meanwhile prepare the vegetables, but
leave the carrots, turnip, and parsnip whole, unless very large, when
they should be cut into 2 or 3 pieces. Quarter the celery, and remove
the outer stalks, cut the cabbage in two, trim, and wash it well, then
tie the two halves together. When the meat has been boiling for 2
hours, put in the bouquet-garni, cloves (stuck in one of the onions)
peppercorns, and all the vegetables, but only a few at a time so that
the temperature of the stock is not too much reduced. Cut the crust
of the French rolls into small rounds, and either fry them or crisp them
in the oven. Continue the cooking for 2 hours, after adding the vege-
tables, then strain some of the soup into a tureen, cut a little carrot,
turnip, and leek into dice or cubes, and add them, with the chopped
RECIPES FOR BROTHS
145
parsley and fried bread, to the soup in the tureen, and serve. Place
the meat on a hot dish, and garnish with the rest of the vegetables.
Serve the cabbage separately in a vegetable dish.
Time. — 4 to 4} hours. Average Cost, 3s. to 3s. 6d. Seasonable at any
time. Sufficient for 8 or 10 persons.
The pot-au-feu figures as a standing dish in France, Germany, and Switzerland. It is really the
stock-pot, and is in use from early morning until dinner-time, therefore the basis of a pot-au-jeu is the
stock already in the pot, which is daily being added to and taken from. The meat and soup are not
necessarily served at one meal or served up in the manner described, for the meat is sometimes cut
into rather thick slices and served covered with a good brown or piquant sauce.
18. — HOTCH POTCH. (Fr.— Hotch Potch a l’An-
glaise.)
Ingredients. — 2 quarts of water, 2 lb. of neck of mutton, 1 onion,
1 carrot, \ a turnip, a pint of shelled peas, 1 small cauliflower, 1 good
lettuce, 1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley, salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the meat into neat pieces, put it into a stewpan with
a teaspoonful of salt and the cold water, bring slowly to the boil, and
skim well. Meanwhile, shred the lettuce finely (taking care to shorten
the filaments by cutting them across), cut off the stalk of the cauli-
flower, and break the flower into small sprigs, cut the turnip, carrot,
and onion into dice or cubes. Let the meat simmer gently for 1 hour,
then put in the onion, carrot, and lettuce ; \ an hour afterwards add
the turnip, peas, and cauliflower, and cook slowly for 1 hour, or until
all the vegetables are tender, then add the chopped parsley, season to
taste, and serve.
Time. — About 3 hours. Average Cost, 2S. to 2s. 2d. Seasonable in
Summer. Sufficient for 6 persons.
19. — LEEK SOUP. (Fr. — Potage aux Poireaux.)
Ingredients. — 2 quarts of sheep’s head broth (see recipe No. 26, p. 148),
6 leeks finely shredded, 1 good tablespoonful of medium or coarse
oatmeal, salt and pepper.
Method. — Make the broth as directed, then strain and replace it in
the saucepan. Bring to the boil, sprinkle in the oatmeal, add the
prepared leeks, and boil gently until quite tender. Season to taste,
and serve.
Time. — From § to 1 hour. Average Cost, 6d., exclusive of the stock.
Sufficient for 6 or 8 persons. Seasonable in winter.
146 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
20. — MUTTON BROTH. ( Fr . — Bouillon de Mouton.)
Ingredients. — 1 quart of cold water, 1} lb. of neck of mutton, 1 small
carrot, \ a turnip, 1 onion, 1 strip of celery, 1 teaspoonful of finely-
chopped parsley, 1 tablespoonful of rice or pearl-barley, salt and
pepper.
Method. — Remove all the fat and cut the meat into small pieces.
Put the water into a stewpan, add the meat, bones and a little salt,
bring slowly to the boil, and skim well. If pearl-barley is used, blanch
it by putting it into cold water and bringing to the boil. Cut the
vegetables into rather small dice or cubes, and add them to the broth
when it has cooked for 1 hour : add also the pearl-barley. When the
broth has simmered gently for 3 hours, strain and return to the sauce-
pan. Carefully remove any fragments of bone from the meat, vege-
tables and pearl-barley, and return. When boiling, sprinkle in the
parsley. Season to taste, and serve.
Time. — 3 to 3^ hours. Average Cost, is. id. to is. 3d. Seasonable at
any time. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
21. -MUTTON BROTH. (Fr.— Bouillon de Mouton.)
(Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 3 quarts of cold water, 3 lb. of the scrag end of the neck
of mutton, 1 onion, 1 carrot, \ a turnip, 2 strips of celery, 2 or 3 sprigs
of parsley, 2 ozs. of pearl-barley, salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the meat into small pieces, put them into a stewpan
with the vegetables (cut up small), parsley, water, and a teaspoonful
of salt, and simmer for 3 hours. Blanch and parboil the pearl-barley 5
cut one or two nice turnips into small dice (about \ a pint). Strain the
broth, return it to the stewpan, add the pearl-barley and turnip dice,
and cook very gently for 40 to 60 minutes. Cut some of the best
pieces of mutton into neat squares, and add them to the broth to re-
heat. Season to taste, and serve.
Time. — About 4 hours. Average Cost, is. 9d. to 2s. Seasonable at any
time. Sufficient for 6 or 8 persons.
22. — OKRA SOUP.
Ingredients.— 1 lb. buttoek steak, 2 oz. of butter, 1 onion, 1 pint of
okras, 2 quarts of stock.
Fry 1 lb. of buttock steak, cut into small pieces, in butter or
dripping. To this add a few slices of onion, fry both a nice brown.
Next add 1 pint of okras (sliced), and moisten with 2 quarts of stock or
water. Simmer for 2 hours, season, strain and serve.
Time. — 2} hours. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for 6 persons.
RECIPES FOR BROTHS
147
23. — PAN KAIL. (Fr.~— Soupe Maigre aux Choux.)
Ingredients. — 2 quarts of boiling water, 3 ozs. of butter or fat, 1 small
cabbage shredded, 1 heaped tablespoonful of medium or coarse oatmeal,
salt and pepper.
Method. — Melt the butter or fat in a saucepan, stir in the prepared
cabbage, cook for 5 minutes, then add the boiling water. Bring to
boiling-point, add a seasoning of salt and pepper, sprinkle in the oat-
meal, and boil gently for 1 5 or 20 minutes, or until the cabbage is
sufficiently cooked. Add more seasoning if required, then serve,
Time.— About } an hour. Average Cost, qd. to 5d. Sufficient for 6
or 7 persons. Seasonable at any time.
The Savoy (Fr. chou de Savoie) is one of the numerous cultivated forms of the cabbage, and is
characterized by its wrinkled leaves. It is close-hearted, sweet and tender, especially the middle
leaves. The savoy is in season from late autumn to spring, and is improved in flavour by frost.
24. — RABBIT BROTH. (Fr. — Bouillon de Lapin.)
Ingredients. — 2 quarts of water, 1 rabbit, 1 } lb. of bacon or pickled
pork, 2 onions, 1 carrot, } a turnip, 1 strip of celery, 1 tablespoonful
of rice, salt and pepper.
Method. — Wash the rabbit, and if it is to be served separately, keep
it whole and truss for boiling (see Chapter on trussing) ; if not, cut it
into small joints, and remove the liver, etc., If bacon be used, let it be
well scraped, and soaked in warm water for 1 or 2 hours. Cut the vege-
tables into small dice or cubes. Put the water into a large stewpan,
add the bacon and rabbit, bring slowly to the boil, remove the
scum as it rises, and when the rabbit has cooked for 1 hour put in the
vegetables, rice, and a little salt, and continue the cooking for another
hour. Take out the rabbit, and if it is to be served separately, have
ready some onion sauce, or white sauce, to serve with it. (See Sauces.)
If the rabbit has been cut into joints, take them out of the stewpan,
remove the meat from the bone, cut it into small dice, and return to the
broth to be re-heated. Cut a little of the bacon also into dice : the
rest can be used cold. Season to taste, and serve.
Time. — 2\ to 2} hours. Average Cost, 2s. 3d. to 2s. 6d. Seasonable in
Winter. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
25. — SCOTCH BROTH. (Fr.— Bouillon Ecossais.)
Ingredients. — 3 quarts of cold water, 3 lb. scrag end of mutton,
1 onion, 1 leek, 1 carrot, 1 turnip, a strip of celery, 1 dessertspoonful
of finely-chopped parsley, 2 tablespoonfuls of Scotch barley, salt and
pepper.
148
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Cut the meat into small pieces, put them into a stewpan
with the water and a teaspoonful of salt, and cook gently for 2 hours.
Wash the barley, cut the vegetables into dice, add them to the broth
and cook for another hour, making 3 hours in all. Strain and return
the broth to the stewpan. Cut the meat into small pieces, carefully
remove any fragments of bone from the vegetables and barley, ani
add them to the broth. When quite hot, season to taste, and serve.
Time. — About 4 hours. Average Cost, about 2s. Seasonable in Winter.
Sufficient for 6 or 8 persons.
The Sheep (Fr. brebis) has from the earliest times been one of the most useful of animals to man,
its wool, skin and flesh supplying him respectively with material for clothing, leather and food ; its
milk in some countries is used for making butter and cheese. There are numerous varieties of the
domestic sheep, a ruminant quadruped of the genus Otis : wild sheep are found chiefly in mountainous
districts. The principal breeds of English sheep are the Southdown, Leicester, Cotswold, Cheviot
and the Welsh. Of the numerous foreign breeds, the fat-tailed sheep of Asia and Egypt, the Astra-
kan, the Cretan, the Iceland and the Merino, are the most noticeable, the last named originally
belonging to Spain, but now extensively bred in other countries of Europe and in Australia and New
Zealand, furnishing the valuable merino wool. The flesh of the sheep, or mutton, is tender and
easy of digestion, and possesses highly nutritive properties. Large quantities of foreign mutton are
now imported into England principally from Australia and New Zealand by means of cold storage
in transit. The New Zealand mutton is of excellent quality, and has an extensive sale. The small
Welsh mutton is much esteemed. The quality of the flesh of the sheep is largely dependent on the
pastorage and food stuffs on which it is fed.
26.— SHEEP’S HEAD BROTH. ( Fr . Potage de Tete
de Mouton.)
Ingredients. — 3 quarts of water, 1 sheep’s head, 2 carrots, 2 onions,
1 turnip, 2 strips of celery, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf),
salt, 1 tablespoonful of rice.
Method. — Remove the brains and tongue, and soak the head in salt
and water for 12 hours, changing the water repeatedly. Put it into
a large saucepan with a good handful of salt, cover with water, bring
to the boil, strain, and wash well. Return it to the saucepan, add
the water, and bring to the boil, skim thoroughly, add a teaspoonful
of salt, then simmer for 3 hours. Meanwhile cut the vegetables into
dice, and now add them and the rice to the broth. Continue the
cooking for another hour, then take up the head, cut the meat into
dice and return it to the broth and simmer for a few minutes. Take
out the herbs, add seasoning to taste, and serve.
The brains can be used for brain cakes, and the tongue cooked and
served separately. Only a small portion of the head need be served
in the broth ; the rest could be served separately, garnished with the
tongue, and covered with brain sauce.
Time. — About 4 hours. Average Cost, is. to is. 2d. Seasonable at any
time, particularly in Winter. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
RECIPES FOR BROTHS
i4g
27. — SCOTCH KAIL. (Fr. — Potage au choux ecos-
sais.)
Ingredients. — 3 quarts of cold water, 3 lb. of mutton, 3 onions (cut
into dice or cubes), 2 leeks when procurable, the hearts of 2 white
cabbages, salt and pepper, 1 oz. of pearl-barley.
Method. — Keep the meat whole, and put it into a stewpan or earthen-
ware stew pot with the water, onions, leeks, and a teaspoonful of salt,
and cook gently for about 3 hours. Blanch the pearl-barley and add
it when the meat has cooked for 1 hour. Wash the cabbages, shred
them finely, and put them into the stewpot 1 hour before the meat is
to be served. Take up the meat, cut some of it into small pieces,
and place these in a soup tureen. Season the broth, and serve.
Time. — About 3^ hours. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. to 2s. 9d. Seasonable
at any time. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
Note. — Scotch Kail is the Pot-au-fcu of Scotland, and like its Continental
prototype may have the meat served separately, or in the broth. But it
differs from Pot-au-feu in having only the green vegetables from which it
derives the name of “ kail.”
28. — VEAL BROTH. (Fr.— Bouillon de Veau.)
Ingredients. — 1 quart of cold water, i-|- lb. of neck or knuckle of veal,
1 small carrot, \ a turnip, 1 onion, 1 strip of celery, 1 teaspoonful of
finely-chopped parsley, 1 tablespoonful of rice or pearl-barley,
salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the meat into small pieces, put them with the
water into a stewpan, and bring slowly to the boil. Skim, add a little
salt, and simmer gently for 1 hour, then add the rice or pearl-barley
(the latter must be blanched), and the vegetables cut into dice. When
the broth has cooked gently for 3 hours, strain and return to the stew-
pan. Add the meat to the broth. Carefully remove any fragments of
bone from the vegetables and pearl-barley, then return them to the
broth. When boiling, sprinkle in the parsley, season to taste, and
serve.
Time. — 3 to 3^ hours. Average Cost, is. 2d. to is. 3d. Seasonable at
any time. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Clear Soups.
29. -BRUNOISE SOUP WITH TAPIOCA.
(Fr. — Consomme Brunoise au Tapioca.)
Ingredients. — 1 carrot, 1 small turnip, 1 lettuce, 1 leek, \ an onion,
2 ozs. of butter, 3 pints of consomme (see Recipe No. 42, p. 156),
lemon juice, 1 oz. of crushed tapioca, seasoning.
150
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Prepare the vegetables and cut them into very small dice
or cubes. Fry lightly in the butter, add a good pinch of castor sugar,
and salt and pepper to taste. Moisten with some of the consomme.
Cook gently for about \ an hour, skim, add the remainder of the con-
somme, and boil gently until the vegetables are tender. Soak the
tapioca in tepid water, strain and put it in a stewpan with a little
consomme, cook till tender, and mix it with the remainder of the soup
a few minutes before sending to table, when a few drops of lemon juice
should be added.
Time. — if hours. Average Cost, 2s. ,6d. per quart. Sufficient for 6
persons.
Tapioca (Fr. tapioca ) is a preparation of cassava meal, made from a South American shrub of some
8 feet in height, with broad, shining leaves, and handsome white and rose-coloured flowers. The
nutritious starch is obtained from the thick, fleshy, parsnip-like roots by the process of washing,
maceration and pressure to express the juice, which, in its natural state, is poisonous. The cassava
meal, while in the moist state, is made into flat cakes and heated and dried on hot plates.
30. — CLEAR BRUNOISE SOUP. ( Fr . — Consomme
Brunoise.)
Ingredients. — 3 pints of clear soup (see Recipe 42 page 156), 1 carrot, 1
onion, 1 turnip, -b an oz. of butter, pepper and salt.
Method. — Prepare the vegetables and cut them into very small dice
or cubes, melt the butter in a stewpan, put in the dice of vegetables
with a little salt and pepper, and fry very gently for a few minutes,
shaking and tossing them frequently to prevent them taking colour.
Drain well to free them from butter, add them to the hot soup and sim-
mer gently for 15 minutes. Skim well.
Time. — To prepare and cook the vegetables, \ an hour. Average Cost,
3s. 6d. Seasonable at any time. Sufficient for 6 persons.
31. — CLEAR COLD CHICKEN SOUP. (Fr.— Con-
somme de Volaille Frappe.)
Ingredients. — 1 old hen, i| lb. of knuckle of veal, 1 \ lb. of shin of beef,
salt, soup vegetables, 2 cloves, a few peppercorns, 1 oz. of butter,
1 glass of sherry.
Method. — Pluck and truss the fowl as for boiling, put the butter
in a stewpan, and add the fowl whole as soon as the butter is hot;
let it get a nice brown, then add the meat. Pour on about a gallon
of water and set it to boil — it must come slowly to the boil, and remove
the scum. Have the vegetables ready and well washed (they should
include 1 onion stuck with 2 cloves, } a head of celery, 2 carrots, 1 leek,
2 small turnips, 1 bay -leaf, and a parsley root, and put them in the
stock. Add a little salt and the peppercorns, simmer gently for
about 4 hours, or longer; slam occasionally. The fowl may be taken
RECIPES FOR CLEAR SOUPS
151
out after 2 hours cooking, and can be made use of for the cutlets.
When the slock is finished carefully remove the fat from the top, and
strain it through a fine hair sieve. If carefully cooked it will be quite
clear, otherwise it will have to be clarified. Season to taste at the last
and allow it to get cold, then stand it on the ice until required. The
sherry should be added just before sending it to the table. This soup
is, as its name implies, quite cold (iced). A handful of Royal Custard
may be served in the consomme if liked.
Average Cost.— 5s. 6d. Sufficient for 8 or 10 persons. Seasonable at any
time.
Basil (Fr. basilie). — This aromatic plant is a native of the East Indies, its perfume resembling
that of cloves. It is cultivated as an aromatic pot-herb, and its leaves are used for flavouring soup
and as a salad, especially by French cooks.
32. -CLEAR DUBOURG SOUP. {Fr. — Consomme
a la Dubourg.)
Ingredients.— 3 pints of clear soup, a small savoury custard (see recipe
for Consomme a, la Royale, p. 155), 1 tablespoonful of cooked rice, 1
tablespoonful of cooked green peas.
Method. — Prepare the custard as directed, and add it with the peas
and rice to the soup a few minutes before serving.
Time. — To prepare and cook the garnish, } an hour. Average Cost
2s. gd. Seasonable at any time. Sufficient for 6 persons.
33. — CLEAR GAME SOUP, PALERMO STYLE.
{Fr.— -Consomme de Gibier a la Palermo.)
Ingredients. — For consomme : 1 grouse, J a rabbit, 2 lb. of shin of
beef, 1 lb. of lean veal, lb. of raw ham, 2 02s. of dripping or butter,
the bones and trimmings of Ihe above meat, poultry, or game, soup
vegetables, 2 blades of mace, 2 cloves, peppercorns, a small bunch
of herbs (bouquet-garni), salt, 2\ quarts of water, cayenne pepper.
For Garniture. — \ a head of celery, 2 ozs. of macaroni, game quenelles,
cooked ham, 1 French roll, grated Parmesan cheese.
Method. --Remove the breasts from the grouse, and use for quenelles.
Cut up the bird and rabbit into joints, and the beef and veal into pieces.
Melt the dripping in a large stewpan, put in the bird, the rabbit and
the meat, and fry till brown over a quick fire ; pour off the fat, add the
water and the ham, let it come to the boil, and skim. Put in the soup
vegetables, consisting of a small onion stuck with cloves, a carrot, a
turnip, and a few leaves of celery or leek, together with any trimmings
or bones of meat, etc. Now add the bouquet of herbs, mace, pepper-
corns, and a tablespoonful of salt, simmer gently for about 3 hours or
152
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
longer ; take out the ham when done, as some of it will be required
for garnish. Special attention must be paid to the simmering and
occasional skimming of the soup in order to keep it clear, otherwise it
will require clarifying. Strain the soup through a cloth into a clean
stewpan, and keep hot.
Prepare the garniture as follows : Cut the white portion of the celery
into small dice or strips, cook in slightly salted water containing a small
piece of butter. Cook the macaroni in salted water, cool and strain,
then cut it into short pieces. Prepare some small quenelles with
the breast of grouse and panada (a culinary paste of flour and wafer),
and poach in a little stock. Cut the cooked ham into strips or dice the
same as the celery, and put these into the consomme to get thoroughly
hot. .Stamp out some small rounds of bread crust cut from the roll,
put these in the soup tureen, pour over the consomme. Hand round
the grated cheese on a plate.
Time. — About 3 hours. Average Cost, 3s. 8d., without the game.
Sufficient for 8 persons.
34. — CLEAR JARDINIERE SOUP. (Fr.— Con-
somme a la Jardiniere.)
Ingredients. — 3 pints of clear soup (see Recipe No. 42, p. 156), 2
carrots, 1 turnip, \ a cucumber, salt.
Method.— Scrape the carrots, pare the turnip, but leave the skin on
the cucumber, as the green has a pleasing effect when mixed with the
other vegetables. Cut the vegetables (with a round cutter sold for the
purpose) the size and shape of peas, and boil them separately in slightly
salted water until tender, taking care not to cook them too much.
Drain well, add the vegetables to the boiling soup, simmer for a few
minutes, then serve.
Time. — To prepare and cook the vegetables, \ an hour. Average Cost,
2s. 4d. Seasonable in Spring. Sufficient for 6 persons.
35.— CLEAR JULIENNE SOUP. (Fr.— Consomme a
la Julienne.)
Ingredients. — 3 pints of clear soup (see Recipe No. 42, p. 156), 1
carrot, 1 onion, a turnip, a strip of celery, pepper and salt, \ an oz. of
butter.
Method. — Prepare the vegetables and cut them into fine strips like
small matches, melt the butter in a small saucepan, put in the strips
of vegetable with a little salt and pepper, and fry gently for a few
minutes, shaking frequently to prevent browning. Drain well to free
them from, butter, add them to the hot soup, and simmer gently for
15 or 20 minutes, keeping the soup well skimmed.
RECIPES FOR CLEAR SOUPS 153
Time. — To prepare and cook the vegetables, 40 minutes. Average
Cost, 2S. 4d. Seasonable at any time. Sufficient tor 6 persons.
Note. — A tablespoonful of cooked green peas, and the same quantity of
cooked French beans cut in narrow strips, may be added to the other vege-
tables. Instead of frying them in butter they (the turnip, carrot, onion,
celery) may be parboiled in salt and water, and afterwards simmered until
tender in the stock.
36. — CLEAR LEAFY SOUP.
(Fr. — Consomme aux Mille Feuilles.)
Ingredients. — 2 quarts consomme (see Recipe No. 42, p. 156), 1 oz.
soft breadcrumbs, 1 oz. grated Parmesan cheese, 2 eggs, grated nut-
meg, pepper and salt.
Method. — Mix the breadcrumbs and cheese in a basin, beat up the
eggs and stir them into the above ; beat up well for a few minutes, and
1 add the seasoning. Drop the mixture by means of a funnel into the
boiiing consomme, and allow it to simmer for about 5 minutes. By
this time the broth will become clear again. It is then ready for serving.
Time. — About \ hour. Average Cost, 3s. Sufficient for 8 persons.
37. — CLEAR MOCK TURTLE SOUP. (Fr.— Potage
de Tortue Fausse Clair.)
Ingredients. — \ a calf’s head, 5 quarts of clear second stock (see Recipe
No. 7, p. 140), (or water), 2 onions, 2 carrots, 1 turnip, 1 strip of celery,
bouquet-garni (parsley, basil, marjoram, thyme, bay-leaf), 12 pepper-
corns, 4 cloves, 2 blades of mace, 2 glasses of sherry, 1 tablespoonful
of lemon juice, \ a lb. of lean beef, -b a lb. of lean veal, the whites and
shells of 2 eggs, salt.
Method.— Soak the head 24 hours in salt and water, changing it
frequently. Then bone the head (the brains and tongue may be used
for some other purpose), tie the meat in a thin cloth and break the bones
into small pieces ; put them into a stewpan, cover with cold water,
add a tablespoonful of salt, let it boil up, strain, and wash the head in
cold water. Return the meat and bones to the stewpan, put in the
stock and a dessertspoonful of salt, boil up, and skim well. Now add
the prepared vegetables, herbs, peppercorns, cloves and mace, and when
boiling, remove the scum, put on the cover and cook slowly for about
3 hours, according to the size of the head. Strain, put the meat aside,
and when the stock is cold remove the fat , and clarify with the coarsely
chopped beef and veal, and whites of eggs, see recipe No. 10. Return
to the saucepan, with the sherry, the lemon-juice and a little of the
meat of the head, cut into small pieces. Add necessary seasoning,
’ boil up and serve.
154
I IOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
This recipe may be thickened with a tablespoonful of arrowroot
when a thicker soup is required.
The remainder of the calf’s head can be used for an entree.
Time.— -To prepare the stock, 3J to 4 hours. To clarify and re-heat,
40 to 60 minutes. Average Cost. 5s. 9d. with stock. Seasonable at
any time. Sufficient for 12 or 14 persons.
Marjoram (Fr. marjolainc).—* The common marjoram is indigenous to Britain, and grows on chalky
soils. Its flowers are reddish in colour, growing in clustered spikes. It possesses balsamic, aromatic
and bitter properties, and from the plant is obtained “ oil of thyme.” Sweet and pot marjoram,
natives of southern Europe, are cultivated in gardens for culinary use ; the young tops and leaves,
both green and dried, are used for seasoning,
38.— CLEAR MULLIGATAWNY. (Fr.— Consomme
a l’lndienne.)
Ingredients. — 2 quarts of second stock (sec Recipe No. 7, p. 140), 2
onions, sliced, 1 apple, sliced, 1 tablespoonful of mild curry powder,
\ a tablespoonful of salt, the whites and shells of 2 eggs, the juice of
1 lemon.
Method. — Put the stock, onions, apples, curry powder (previously
mixed smoothly with a little cold water), and salt into a well-tinned
stewpan, put on the cover and simmer gently for \ \ hours, then strain.
When cold, add the egg-shells crushed and the whites stiffly whipped,
let the soup boil up again and simmer for a few minutes, then strain,
re-heat, add the lemon-juice and any necessary seasoning, and serve,
with boiled rice, handed round separately or put in the soup.
When convenient, a little cooked chicken should also be served, cut
into dice or cubes, and warmed in the soup a few minutes before serving.
Time. — To make the soup, to \\ hours. To clear and re-heat the
soup, 30 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. Seasonable at any time.
Sufficient for 6 persons.
39.— CLEAR MULLIGATAWNY. (Fr.— Consomme
a Tlndienne.) (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 2 quarts of second stock, 2 small onions, sliced, 1 sour
apple, sliced, 2 oz. of lean raw ham or bacon, the bones of any roast game
or poultry, 1 dessertspoonful of mild curry powder, 1 dessertspoonful of
curry paste, 1 teaspoonful of chutney 1 tablespoonful of lemon juice,
1 tcaspoonful of salt, the whites and shells of 2 eggs, 1 oz. of butter.
Method. — Fry the onions, apple, curry powder, ham (cut into small
pieces), bones and any trimmings of poultry there may be, in the butter
until nicely browned, then add the stock, salt, curry paste, chutney,
and simmer gently for about 1 hour ; strain, and when cold remove
RECIPES FOR CLEAR SOUPS 155
the fat. Clarify with the shells and whites of eggs as in the preceding
recipe, re-heat, add the lemon-juice, and serve with boiled rice.
Time. — To make the soup, i-j- to id hours. To clarify and re-heat,
30 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. Seasonable at any time. Sufficient
for 6 persons.
40. — CLEAR OXTAIL SOUP. (TV.-Potage de
Queue de Boeuf, clair.)
Ingredients. — 1 oxtail, 1 carrot, } a turnip, 1 onion, 1 strip of celery,
a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 6 peppercorns, 2 cloves,
1 blade of mace, 3 quarts of clear second stock, salt, the whites and
shells of 2 eggs.
Method. — Cut the tail into short lengths, cover with cold water, add
a little salt, bring to the boil and strain. Return to the saucepan
with the vegetables, flavourings, and seasonings, simmer gently for
four hours, keeping the stewpan covered, strain, put the meat aside,
and when the stock is cold remove the fat. Clarify with the whites
and shells of the eggs, strain, re-heat, and serve garnished with pieces
of the tail, and a little carrot and turnip cooked and cut into some fancy
shape. A glass of sherry is sometimes added when re-heating, also a
tablespoonful of arrowroot, previously mixed smoothly with a little
stock, when a slightly-thickened “ clear ” soup is desired.
Time. — To make the soup, from 4 to 4I- hours. To clarify and heat,
30 to 40 minutes. Cost. — 2s. pd. to 3s. 3d. Seasonable at any time.
Sufficient for 9 or 10 persons.
Note. — The larger pieces of tail should be re-heated in brown sauce, or
a good curry sauce, and served as a dish for luncheon.
41. — CLEAR ROYAL SOUP. (Fr— Consomme a la
Royale.)
Ingredients. — 3 pints of clear soup (see Recipe No. 42, p. 156), t egg, 1
tablespoonful of milk or white stock, salt and pepper.
Method. — Beat the egg, add the milk, salt and pepper to taste, and
pour the custard into a well-buttered plain mould. Have ready a
small stewpan half full of boiling water, put in the custard, cover the
top of the mould with greased paper, put on a close-fitting lid to keep in
the steam, and cook very slowly for 15 minutes, or until the custard is
firm. When cold, cut into strips, rounds, diamonds or any fancy
shape, rinse in warm water, then put them into the tureen and pour
in the hot consomme. Or to make a change, use one yolk and the
whites of 2 eggs. To the yolk and each white add a dessertspoonful of
good white stock or milk, season to taste, and colour one white of egg
156
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
with carmine or cochineal. Cook in 3 separate small timbals or dariol
moulds, and use as directed above.
Time. — To prepare and cook the custard, an hour. Average Cost,
3s. 4d. Seasonable at any time. Sufficient tor 6 persons.
42. — CLEAR SOUP. ( Fr . Consomme.)
Ingredients. — 2 quarts of brown stock, 1 lb. of neck of beef (lean')
finely chopped, or passed two or three times through the mincing
machine, the whites and shells of 4 eggs, 1 carrot, cut in two or three
pieces, 1 onion (left whole), a strip of celery, 12 peppercorns, 6 allspice,
2 cloves, salt.
Method. — The stock should be cold and quite free from fat. Put
it into a clean well-tinned stewpan, add the vegetables, flavourings,
seasonings, the shells of the eggs crushed and the whites stiffly whipped,
and whisk all together over a gentle fire until just on boiling point,
then let it simmer about \ an hour. Strain through a clean dry cloth,
re-heat and season to taste before serving. A glass of sherry, a dessert-
spoonful of French vinegar or lemon-juice and a pinch of castor sugar,
are frequently added when re-heating the consomme.
Time.— About 1 hour. Average Cost, 3s. to 3s. 6d. Seasonable at any
time. Sufficient for 8 or 9 persons.
43. — CLEAR SOUP, PORTUGUESE STYLE.
( Fr . — Consomme a la Portugaise.)
Ingredients. — 2 quarts consomme, 1 large ripe tomato, \ an 02. of
butter, 12 French plums, 1 small leek, a pinch of cayenne.
Method. — Wash the plums, put them in cold water with a little salt,
bring to the boil, strain, and rinse in cold water ; return to the stewpan
in which they were blanched, add sufficient clear stock to well cover,
and cook slowly till tender. Wash and clean the leek, cut it into fine
shreds or Julienne shaped strips about 1 inch long, wash well in cold
water, drain, and cook for a few minutes with the butter, pour in some
clarified stock or consomme, and cook slowly till tender. Carefully
remove all the fat, pour in the consomme, and let it simmer for a
few minutes. Put the plums in the soup tureen. Blanch and skin the
tomato, cut it up into very small pieces or dice, free from pips, and put
these also into the soup tureen. Add a pinch of cayenne pepper to
taste, pour on the consomme, and serve.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 4s. 2d. Sufficient for 8 persons.
44. — CLEAR SOUP WITH FRIED QUENELLES.
( Fr . — Consomme aux Quenelles Frites.)
Ingredients. — 3 pints of clear soup (see Recipe No. 42), J of a
lb. of leg of veal, or raw chicken, \ an oz. of flour, J of an 02. of but*
RECIPES FOR CLEAR SOUPS 157
ter, a tablespoonful of good white stock, a teaspoonful of cream, \ an
egg, salt and pepper to taste.
Method. — Mince the veal finely, or pass it through the mincing ma-
chine 2 or 3 times. Melt the butter in a small saucepan, stir in
the flour, add the stock, and cook until it leaves the sides of the saucepan
clear and forms a compact mass round the bowl of the spoon : this is
called a panada. Let it cool slightly, pound it and the veal well
together, add the half egg and seasoning, pound until well mixed
together, then rub through a wire sieve. Mix in the cream, shape into
small marbles, frv in a little hot butter or fat, drain well, and add them
to the soup just before serving.
Time. — To make and cook the quenelle mixture, 30 to 40 minutes.
Average Cost, 2s. 9d. to 3s. Seasonable at any time. Sufficient for 6
persons.
Note. — This mixture may also be shaped in small teaspoons or eggspoons,
and poached in a little boiling water before being added to the soup.
45. — CLEAR SOUP WITH ITALIAN PASTE.
( Fr . — Consomme aux Pates d’ltalie.)
Ingredients. — 3 pints of clear soup (see Recipe No. 42, p. 156), 1 table-
spoonful of Italian paste (bought in packets).
Method. — Sprinkle the paste into the boiling soup, and cook it
for a few minutes before serving. Crushed tapioca, sago or Florador
may be used instead of the paste, also macaroni, vermicelli or spaghetti,
but these must be cooked and cut into short lengths before being
added to the soup.
Time. — To cook the Italian paste, 10 minutes. Average Cost, 3s.
Seasonable at any time. Sufficient for 6 persons.
46. -CLEAR SOUP WITH RIBBON MACARONI.
(Fr. — Consomme aux Nouilles.)
Ingredients. — 3 pints of clear soup, 40ZS. of fine flour, 1 dessertspoonful
of grated Parmesan cheese, 1 egg, 1 saltspoonful of salt.
Method. — Mix the flour, cheese and salt well together, add half the egg,
and, if necessary, a little water. Knead it vigorously with the palm
of the hand until a fairly stiff but smooth paste is formed ; it must
not be too moist, and should have a tenacious elastic consistency.
Wrap in a floured cloth and let it stand for 1 hour or more, then roll out
very thinly on a floured board, cut into narrow strips, and cook a few
at a time, in salted boiling water. Strain and drain and add a hand-
ful to the consomme a few minutes before serving.
158
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Time. — \ an hour to cook the paste. Average Cost, 3s. 3d. Seasonable
at any time. Sufficient for 6 persons.
Note. — The remainder of Nouilles or Ribbon Macaroni can be heated up with
White Sauce, and done au gralin, to be served for a luncheon or supper dish.
47. — CLEAR TURTLE SOUP. (£>.— Potage Tortue
Clair.)
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of the best sun-dried turtle, 1 small tin of turtle
fat (this may be omitted), \ a lb. of lean neck of beef, | a lb. of lean
veal, the whites and shells of 2 eggs, 5 quarts of good stock, 2 onions,
2 carrots, 1 turnip, 1 strip of celery, bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme,
bay-leaf, basil, marjoram), 12 peppercorns, 2 cloves, 1 blade of mace
(tied in muslin), 2 glasses of sherry, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, salt.
Method. — Soak the turtle for 3 days, changing the water frequently.
Put the stock, turtle, and a dessertspoonful of salt into a large stewpan
and bring to the boil, then add the prepared vegetables, herbs, bag of
peppercorns, etc., and when the stock boils remove the scum as it
rises. Put on the cover and cook gently for 8 or 9 hours, adding more
stock if that in the pan reduces very much. Strain, put the pieces of
turtle aside, and remove the fat from the soup when cold. Pass the
beef and veal 2 or 3 times through the mincing machine, and add them
together with the shells and stiffly-whipped whites of the eggs to the
soup, and whisk until it boils. Simmer gently for \ an hour, then strain
and return to the stewpan with the turtle and turtle fat cut into small
squares, adding sherry, lemon-juice, and the necessary seasoning, and
cook gently for a few minutes. Lemons cut in quarters are sometimes
handed separately with this soup for those who prefer a stronger flavour
of lemon.
Time. — To make the stock, 9 to 10 hours. To clarify and re-heat,
to \\ hours. Average Cost, 8s. 6d. without stock. Seasonable at any
time. Sufficient for 10 persons.
48. — COCK-A-LEEKIE SOUP.
Ingredients. — A small fowl for boiling, 1 carrot, 1 turnip, 1 onion,
2 cloves, 1 small bunch of young leeks, 2 ozs. of rice, salt and pepper.
Method. — Truss the fowl for boiling, put it in a large stewpan or
stock-pot, with enough water to well cover it, add a little salt, and let
it come to the boil. Remove the scum, then add the carrot, turnip
(previously cleaned), and the onion, peeled and stuck with the cloves.
When the fowl is tender take it out. Wash the leeks, trim off the roots
and outside leaves, and cut into i-inch lengths. Strain the broth
(which should measure about 3 pints) into another stewpan, add the
leeks and the rice, previously washed and blanched. Boil for about
T an hour, season to taste, cut the fowl in half, divide one half into very
RECIPES FOR CLEAR SOUPS
159
small pieces and put these with the soup. Use the remainder for
some other purpose. Before serving, add a teaspoonful of chopped
parsley to the soup. If preferred, the fowl need not be served in the
soup, but it is essential that this soup should be made from chicken
stock.
Time, about if hours. Average Cost, 2s. iod. Sufficient for 6 persons.
49. — CUSTARD FOR SOUP. (Fr.— Garniture Royale.)
Ingredients. — 2 whole eggs, 2 yolks of eggs, 1 gill of white stock, salt
and pepper.
Method. — Beat up the eggs in a basin, add the stock, and season
with salt and pepper and a little grated nutmeg. Strain this into a
well-buttered plain tin mould; stand it in a stewpan containing a little
boiling water, cover the mould with a buttered paper, and let it poach
in a moderately heated oven for 20 minutes. When done, take out
the mould and put in a cool place. Turn out when cold, and cut the
custard into dice, cubes, or other fanciful shapes (known as Royal).
Use for garnish in clear or thick soups.
Time. — 20 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. Sufficient for 3 or 4
quarts of soup. Seasonable at any time.
50. — PRINCE’S SOUP. (Fr. — Consomme aux Navets.)
Ingredients. — 3 pints of boiling clear soup, (see Recipe No. 42, p. 156,)
J of a pint of turnip garnish, 2 tablespoonfuls of cooked green peas, 1
dessertspoonful of finely-shredded truffle, salt and pepper.
Method. — Scoop the turnip into rounds the same size as the peas,
and cook them until tender but not broken. Season the stock to taste,
add the prepared turnip, peas and truffle, make thoroughly hot, and
serve.
Time.— | an hour. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient tor 6 persons.
Seasonable at any timg.
51. — RICE SOUP. (Fr. — Consomme au Riz.)
Ingredients. — 3 pints of consomme, (see Recipe No. 42, p. 156), 2 ozs. of
Patna rice, salt and pepper.
Method. — Throw the rice into boiling water, let it cook rapidly for
5 minutes, then wash and drain it well. Bring the stock to boiling-
point, add salt and pepper lo taste, and put in the rice. Simmer gently
until the rice is quite tender, then serve.
Time. — From 15 to 20 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. 3d. Sufficient for 6
persons. Seasonable at any time.
i6o
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
52. — SAGO SOUP. (Fr.— Consomme au Sagou.)
Ingredients.— 3 pints of consomme (sec Recipe No. 4 2, p. 156), ij oz.
of fine sago, salt and pepper.
Method. — Wash the sago in 2 or 3 waters. Boil up the stock, sprinkle
in the sago, boil gently until it becomes transparent, then season to
taste, and serve.
Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost. 2s. 3d. Sufficient for 6 per-
sons. Seasonable at any time.
53. — SEMOLINA SOUP. {Fr. — Consomme auSemoule.)
Ingredients. — 3 pints of consomme (see Recipe No. 42, p. 156), ij oz.
of semolina, salt and pepper.
Method. — Boil up the stock, and sprinkle in the semolina. Cook
gently for 20 minutes, stirring almost continuously, then season to
taste, and serve.
Time. — About 30 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. 3d. Sufficient for 5 or 6
persons. Seasonable at any time.
Semolina (Fr. semoule). — A wheat meal, prepared from the large grains of the hard wheats of
southern Europe by a special process of milling, which produces a very white coarse flour, rich in
gluten, rendering semolina a valuable flesh- forming food. It is used for thickening soups, puddings,
etc.
54. — SOLFERINO SOUP. (Fr.— Consomme Solferino.)
Ingredients. — 1 quart of clear soup, (see Recipe No. 42, p. 156), 2 ozs.
of choux paste.
Method. — Make the stock and choux paste as directed, and season
the latter well with salt and pepper. Have ready a deep pan of hot
fat, dip into it the bowl of a small teaspoon, fill it with choux paste,
and smooth the surface with a knife previous!}? dipped into the hot fat.
As the shapes are formed drop them into the fat, and fry them slowly
until crisp and lightly browned. Drain well, and add them to the soup
when on the point of serving.
Time. — About 15 minutes, to fry the shapes. Average Cost, 2s. 3d.
Sufficient for 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.
55. — SPRING SOUP. {Fr. — Potage Printaniere.)
Ingredients. — 3 pints of unclarified stock, J gill each of green peas,
french beans, asparagus tops, and chopped lettuce, 1 young carrot, 1
small onion, a bouquet garni, Jib. of gravy beef, the white of 1 egg;
seasoning.
Method. — Prepare the vegetables, and scoop out some small pea shapes
of carrot. Cook all the vegetables separately in salted water. Put the
RECIPES FOR CLEAR SOUPS
161
stock into a pan with the onion, herbs, finely minced meat, seasoning
and white of egg. Whisk till it boils, then simmer for io minutes.
Strain and reheat. Add the prepared vegetables and serve.
Time. — i hour. Average Cost, 2s. 9d. Sufficient for 6 persons. Sea-
sonable in April and May.
56. — TRANSPARENT SOUP.
Ingredients. — 4 lb. of knuckle of veal, 2 ozs. of blanched almonds
finely-chopped, iloz. of vermicelli crushed, 1 blade of mace, salt and
pepper, 3 quarts of water.
Method. — Cut the meat into small pieces, break up the bones, put
both into a large stewing-jar, and add the water, prepared almonds,
mace, and a little salt and pepper. Cook slowly on the stove or in the
oven until reduced to \ the original quantity, then strain. When
cold, remove every particle of fat, boil up the stock, sprinkle in the
vermicelli, simmer gently for 10 or 15 minutes, then season to taste, and
serve.
Time. — To prepare the stock, 8 hours. Average Cost, 2s. 9d. Sufficient
for 8 persons. Seasonable at any time.
57. — VERMICELLI SOUP. (Fr. — Consomme Vermi-
celle.)
Ingredients. — 3 pints of consomme, (see Recipe No. 42, p. 156), 2
ozs. of vermicelli, salt and pepper.
Method. — Crush the vermicelli between the fingers into short lengths.
Bring the stock to boiling point, sprinkle in the vermicelli, boil gently
for 15 minutes, then season to taste, and serve.
Time. — About 30 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. 3d. Sufficient for 5 or 6
persons. Seasonable at any time.
Vermicelli (Fr. vermicelle) is a preparation of macaroni in a fine, thread-like form, with the addi-
tion of the yolk of eggs, sugar, saffron, and cheese.
Thick Soups.
58. — BARLEY SOUP. (Fr.— Potage Creme d’Orge.)
Ingredients. — 1 pint of white second stock, 1 pint of milk, 1 dessert-
spoonful of flour, 1 oz. of butter, salt and pepper, croutons of fried,
or toasted bread, 2 tablespoonfuls of fine crushed barley, sold in packets
under the name of “ Creme d’Orge.”
Method. — Boil the stock and milk together in a saucepan, melt the
butter, stir in the flour, add the stock and milk and stir until it boils.
G
162
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Sprinkle in the barley, stir and cook until the mixture becomes trans-
parent (about io minutes). Season to taste, ancl serve. The croutons
(small slices of bread cut into shapes) should be either fried in hot fat
or cut from thin slices of toast. They should be handed separately,
unless directions are given to put them into the soup before serving.
Time. — 20 to 30 minutes. Cost, 4d. to 5cl. without the stock. Season-
able at all times. Sufficient for 4 persons.
Note— Rice and tapioca, finely crushed and ground, may also be bought in
packets, and will be found useful preparations for soups of this class. When
not easily obtainable, ground rice, Florador, or Semolina will be found
good substitutes. The well-known “ Potage Creme de Riz ” can be made
from this recipe, using creme de riz instead of creme d’orge ; and either soup
can be made richer by omitting the flour, and butter, and in their place using
the yolks of 2 eggs, and 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, which should be added
to the soup a few minutes before serving.
59. — BARLEY SOUP (Another Method).
(Fr, — Potage Creme d’Orge.)
Ingredients. — 3 pints of white second stock, 1 pint of milk, ij- ounces
of pearl-barley, i-): oz. of butter, 1 oz. of corn-flour, salt, pepper, nut-
meg, croutons of fried or toasted bread.
Method. — Wash the pearl-barley until the water is clear, drain, put
it and the stock into a stewpan, boil up, and simmer gently for 3 hours,
stirring occasionally. Rub through a hair or fine wire sieve, return
to the stewpan, add the milk and seasoning, and bring to the boil.
Knead the corn-flour and butter together, put the mixture into the
soup and stir until it becomes smoothly united with it. Add the nut-
meg if liked, place the croutons of fried bread in the tureen, pour in
the soup, and serve.
Time. — 3^ to 4 hours. Average Cost. — 4d. to 3d. without the stock.
Sufficient for 6 persons.
Barley (Fr. : Orge). — This well known plant, which is a genus ( hordeum ) of the order Gramince , or
Grasses, is probably the first cereal cultivated by man. It was grown in Egypt and Palestine in the
earliest recorded times, and Homer makes reference to it. The ancient Egyptians, Greeks, and
Germans made beer from barley. The grain is principally used for making malt, from which beer,
porter, and whiskey are manufactured. Scotch barley is prepared by removing the husks of the grain
and pearl-barley by the further process of polishing and rounding the grain. Barley-water, a con-
coction of pearl-barley, owing to its emollient and diluent properties, forms a valuable medicine, for
patients of weak digestion. The constituents of barley in too parts are : — Starch, 79 ; glutin, 6 ;
sugar, 7 ; husk, 8.
60. — CABBAGE SOUP. ( Fr . — Potage aux Choux.)
Ingredients. — 2 small young cabbages (finely shredded), 1 tablespoon-
ful of finely chopped onion, 1 teaspoonful of finely chopped parsley,
2 pints of boiling water, 1 pint of milk, 2 tablespoonfuls of crushed
tapioca (sold in packets), or fine sago, 1 teaspoonful of salt, \ of a tea-
spoonful of pepper, 1 oz. of butter.
Method. — Cover the shredded cabbage with boiling water, bring to
the boil and strain. Return the cabbage to the saucepan, add to it
2 pints of boiling water, the milk, onion, parsley, butter, salt and pepper,
RECIPES FOR THICK SOUPS
163
and boil gently for 15 minutes. Sprinkle in the tapioca and cook for
about 10 minutes longer, or until the tapioca becomes transparent,
then serve.
Time. — About -} an hour. Average Cost, 6d. to yd. Seasonable at any
time. Sufficient for 8 persons.
Cabbage (Fr. : Chou). — This valued vegetable, so largely used for culinary purposes, is
cultivated in almost every temperate region of the globe, and in its wild state grows on the rocky
shores of our own island, and still more extensively on the shores of Southern Europe. There are
numerous varieties or “ sports ” of the common cabbage, as the Savoy cabbage, kohl Rabi, the Portu-
gal cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, and seakale, which are grown for the table, and cooked in various
ways. Red or purple cabbage is used for pickling. The cabbage is one of the least nutritious of
vegetables, as it contains about 90 per cent, of water. Sauer-kraut, a popular dish in Germany, is
prepared by packing white cabbages, cut into small pieces, into a cask with layers of salt, mixed with
caraway and juniper berries. When fermented, it is eaten with meat.
61. — CALVES’ TAIL SOUP. (Fr.— Potage de Queue
de Veau.)
Ingredients. — 2 quarts of second stock, 2 calves’ tails, 2 ozs. of butter,
ij ozs. of flour, 1 onion sliced, 1 small carrot sliced, a bouquet-garni
(parsley, thyme, baydeaf), a small blade of mace, 2 cloves, 1 glass of
sherry, salt and pepper.
Method.— Wash, blanch and dry the tails, and divide them into
sections. Boil the stock, add the prepared tails and vegetables,
season to taste, put in the mace and cloves, and cover closely. Simmer
very gently from i-]- to i-|- hours, or until the tails are sufficiently cooked,
Meanwhile melt the butter in a stewpan, add the flour, and stir and cook
slowly until it acquires a nut-brown colour. Strain the stock and
add it to the flour, and stir over the fire until the whole is well blended.
Add the pieces of tail, a few shreds of onion and carrot, the sherry,
and more seasoning if required. Make thoroughly hot, then serve.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, is. 6d. to 2s., exclusive of the
stock. Sufficient for 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Calf (Fr. veau). — The name given to the young of cattle. When under two months of age'
the flesh is called veal, and yields a large quantity of soluble extract, and is, therefore, much used
for broths and soups.
62. — COTTAGE SOUP. (Fr. — Potage a la Paysanne.)
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of lean neck of beef, \ of a lb. of streaky bacon,
1 onion, 1 carrot, \ a turnip, 2 lb. of potatoes, 2 ozs. of dripping,
1 tablespoonful of rice, salt, pepper, and 2 quarts of water.
Method. — Cut the meat into thin slices, the bacon into dice or cubes,
and the soup vegetables into thin slices. Melt the fat in a stewpan, fry
the bacon, meat and onion until nicely browned, then add the sliced
vegetables, the water, salt and pepper, cover closely and simmer for 1
hour. Meanwhile the potatoes should have been prepared, and if very
large, cut in two. Add them to the soup, and when they have been
cooking \ an hour sprinkle in the rice. Cook gently for another \
164
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
hour (2 hours altogether), and if the potatoes and rice are tender,
season the soup to taste and serve.
Time. — 2^ hours. Average Cost, is. pd. Seasonable at any time.
Sufficient for 6 persons.
63.— ENDIVE SOUP. (Fr. — Potage au Chicoree.)
Ingredients. — \\ lb. of knuckle of veal, free from bone, poultry giblets
(pd. or is. worth), 1 onion, 2 cloves, 1 turnip, 1 carrot, 1 small
bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 2 endives (large heads), 2
ozs. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, yolks of 2 eggs, 1 \ gills of cream, seasoning,
nutmeg, salt and pepper, ground mace, paprika pepper.
Method. — Cut the meat into pieces, wash and clean the giblets ;
put all in a stewpan with sufficient water to cover, about 2 quarts, add a
teaspoonful of salt, and bring to the boil. Skim well. Peel the onion,
insert the cloves, peel or scrape the turnip and carrot; add these to
the above, also the bouquet-garni. Boil for about i-|- hours or
longer, and strain. Trim, wash and drain the endives, cut them
into fine shreds, blanch and drain. Melt 1 oz. of butter in a stewpan,
add the endives, and stir over the fire for 5 minutes. Moisten with
sufficient stock, and cook until tender, then put it into the prepared
stock. Allow this to boil up. Melt the remainder of the butter, stir in
the flour, cook a little, and moisten with a little cold milk. Pour this
into the soup, and continue to cook the whole a little longer, then pass
through a fine sieve. Return to the stewpan, season to taste with salt,
p:pp3r and nutmeg, also a tiny pinch of ground mace and paprika.
Put the cream and egg-yolks into the soup tureen, beat up well, and
pour the boiling soup gradually into the tureen. The soup is then
ready for table.
Average Cost. — 3s. 6d. Sufficient for 8 persons. Seasonable from Octo-
ber to April.
Endive (Fr. chicoree). — The curled leaves of this plant — known also as " garden succory ” — when
blanched are used for soups, stews and in salads. The endive, which belongs to the Chicoraceae or
Lettuce division of the Compositae, is a native of China, but grows well in Britain, where it was intro-
duced in the sixteenth century. From one species the chicory used in the adulteration of cogee
is obtained.
64. — FLEMISH SOUP. ( Fr . — Potage a la Flamande.)
Ingredients. — 2 quarts of boiling stock or water, -1 a pint of milk,
2 lb. of potatoes sliced, L a head of celery cut into short pieces, 2 onions
sliced, 3 ozs. of butter or fat, salt and pepper.
Method. — Heat the butter in a large saucepan, add the prepared
vegetables, cover closely, and cook gently for \ an hour, stirring or
shaking the ingredients occasionally. Add the boiling stock or water
RECIPES FOR THICK SOUPS
165
and a seasoning of salt and pepper, boil gently until the potatoes are
soft, then rub the whole through a wire sieve. Re-heat, add the milk,
season to taste, make thoroughly hot, and serve.
Time. — From i|- to if hours. Average Cost, 8d., exclusive of the
stock. Sufficient for 8 persons. Seasonable at any time.
65. — GIBLET SOUP. (Fr. — Potage aux Abatis.)
Ingredients. — The giblets of a goose, turkey, ducks, or chickens, to
one set allow 1 lb. of lean beef, and 3 pints of stock or 2 pints of water,
\ a carrot, 1 small onion, 1 strip of celery, a bouquet-garni (parsley,
thyme, bay-leaf), 1 oz. of butter, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, \ a glass
of sherry, salt, pepper, 1 tablespoonful of macaroni, cooked and cut
across into tiny rings.
Method. — Skin the gizzard, scald and skin the feet, wash the neck and
liver, dry and cut into small pieces. Melt the butter and fry the
giblets, meat and sliced vegetables until brown, then add the stock,
herbs, salt and pepper, and when boiling skim well. Cook gently
for 2 hours, then strain and return to the stewpan. When boiling,
mix the sherry and the flour smoothly together and add to the soup,
also the macaroni and any necessary seasoning, simmer a few
minutes longer, and serve.
Time. — 2f to 3 hours. Cost, exclusive of the giblets and stock, is.
to is. 2d. Seasonable at any time. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
66. — GOOD WOMAN’S SOUP. (Fr.— Potage a la
Bonne Femme.)
Ingredients. — 1 quart of white slock, 1 white-heart lettuce, 1 thick
slice of cucumber (the length of which must equal the breadth of the
cucumber, so that a square block may be cut), a little tarragon and
chervil (these may be omitted when not easily procurable), 1 oz. of
butter, the yolks of 2 eggs, I of a pint of cream or milk-, salt and
pepper.
Method. — Wash and shred the lettuce finely, cut the block of cucumber
lengthwise into thin slices, and the slices into match-like strips. Melt
the butter, and fry the vegetables for 5 or 6 minutes, then add the stock,
salt and pepper, and boil slowly until the lettuce is tender (10 to 15
minutes). Beat the yolks of the eggs, add to them the cream or milk.
Let the soup cool slightly, then pour in the yolks and cream, and stir
until the soup thickens, but it must not boil or the eggs will curdle.
Time. — To prepare and cook, about 40 minutes. Cost, 2s. to 2S. 3d.
Seasonable almost at any time. Sufficient for 4 persons.
1 66
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
67. — GRAVY SOUP. (Fr. — Potage au Jus.)
Ingredients. — 3 pints of second stock or gravy stock, 1 lb. of neck
or shin of beef (lean), 1 carrot, 1 onion, \ a turnip, 1 strip of celery,
bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 8 peppercorns, 2 cloves,
1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the meat into small pieces. Make the butter hot in
the stewpan, put in the meat and sliced vegetables, and fry until
brown. Add the stock, herbs, peppercorns, cloves, and seasoning,
and cook very gently for z\ to 3 hours, strain, return to the saucepan,
boil up, mix the flour smoothly with a little cold stock, pour it into the
soup, simmer 5 minutes longer, add seasoning to taste, and serve.
Time.— 3^ to 4 hours. Average Cost, iod. to is. without the stock.
Seasonable at any time. Suflicient for 4 persons.
68. — GUMBO SOUP. (Fr.— Potage Gombo.)
Ingredients. — 1 quart okras, 3 pints beef stock (see Recipe No. 3,
p. 139), 6 tomatoes, pint Lima beans, salt , pepper, 1 tablespoonful of
chopped parsley.
Method.— Mince the okras, and cook them in the stock with the
sliced tomatoes and the beans. When tender, rub all through a fine
sieve, re-lieat, season with salt and pepper, and add 1 tablespoonful
of chopped parsley.
Time. — 1 hour. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. to 3s. Seasonable at any time.
Sufficient for 6 persons.
69. — HARE SOUP. (Fr. — Puree de Lievre.)
Ingredients.— 3 quarts of second stock, t hare or the bones and in-
ferior parts of a hare, 2 ozs. of butter, t tablespoonful of cornflour, 1
small onion, 1 small carrot, \ a small turnip, 1 strip of celery, a bouquet-
garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 12 peppercorns, 1 glass of port wine,
salt.
Method.— Wipe the hare with a clean damp cloth and cut it into Small
joints. Melt the butter in a stewpan, put in the hare, the vegetables
sliced, and the herbs, and fry until brown. Add the stock, salt and
peppercorns, and simmer gently for 3 hours. Strain, remove the meat
from the bones, and pound it well in a mortar. Rub it through a fine
sieve, then return it and the stock to the stewpan, and when boiling
add the wine and the cornflour, previously mixed smoothly together.
Stir and cook for a few minutes, season to taste, and serve.
Time.— 4 hours. Average Cost, 4s. to 5s., when made from a whole
hare, not including the stock. Seasonable from August to March.
Suflicient for 10 persons.
RECIPES FOR THICK SOUPS
167
70. — HARE SOUP. (Fr. — Potage de Lievre.)
Ingredients. — A hare fresh killed, 1 lb. of gravy beef, -} lb. of raw lean
ham, 1 oz. of butter, 1 tablespoonful of well-browned flour, 1 medium-
sized onion stuck with 3 cloves, 1 small carrot sliced, J of a pint of port
wine or \ pint of good stout, salt and pepper, 3 quarts of water.
Method. — Skin and paunch the hare, saving as much blood as pos-
sible. Divide it into small pieces, put them into a stew-jar, add the
beef and ham cut into small pieces, the blood and liver of the hare,
the water, onion, carrot, and a good seasoning of salt and pepper.
Cover closely, and cook gently, cither on the stove or in the oven, for
5 or 6 hours. Meanwhile brown the flour either in a clean frying-pan
or on a plate in the oven, let it cool, then blend it smoothly with the
butter. Form into small balls, and add them with the wine or stout
to the contents of the stew-jar about 1 hour before serving. Strain,
add the best parts of the hare, season to taste, and serve.
Time. — From 5-f- to 6} hours. Average Cost, 6s. to 8s. Sufficient for
8 or 10 persons. Seasonable in winter.
The Common Hare (Fr. lievre ) is found in all parts of Europe, and in some parts of Asia. Its
fur is tawny-red in the back and white underneath ; in winter the colour of the mountain hare of
Northern Europe changes to white. The average length of the hare is about two feet, and its weight
varies from 8 lb. to 14 lb. The flesh is dark and dry, and devoid of fat, but its flavour is much
esteemed. When old the ears of the hare are dry and tough, the haunches thick, and the claws rugged
and blunt. The ears of young hares tear easily, and its claws are both smooth and sharp. The
hare is noted for its timidity, but, as a protection from its enemies, it possesses great acuteness of
hearing, and remarkable swiftness of foot. The hare and rabbit are typical examples of the rodent
quadrupeds of the genus Lepus.
71. — HUNTER’S SOUP. (Fr.— Potage a la Chasseur.)
Ingredients. — 5 pints of second stock or water, the remains of phea-
sants, partridges or other game, 4 ozs. of raw lean ham, 3 ozs. of butter,
\\ oz. of flour, 1 onion sliced, 1 small carrot sliced, 1 or 2 strips of celery
shredded, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), salt and pepper.
Method. — Heat half the butter in a stewpan, add the game divided
into small pieces, the ham, the prepared vegetables, and the bouquet-
garni, and cook slowly for \ an hour, turning or shaking the ingredients
frequently. Add the stock or water and seasoning of salt and pepper,
cover closely, and simmer gently for 2 hours. Meanwhile heat the
remainder of the butter, add the flour, and cook gently until it acquires
a nut-brown colour. Strain the stock on to it, stir and boil gently until
quite smooth, then garnish with a few strips of game and vegetables,
season to taste, and serve.
Time. — About 3 hours. Average Cost, 8d., in addition to the game
and stock. Sufficient for 8 persons. Seasonable in winter.
72. — KIDNEY SOUP. (Fr.-— Potage aux Rognons.)
Ingredients. — 3 pints of second stock or water, \ lb. ox kidney
i68
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
4 lb. of lean beef, i oz. of butter, i oz. of flour, i tablespoonful of
coarsely chopped onion, \ a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, salt and
pepper.
Method. — Cut the meat and kidney into very small pieces. Melt
the butter in a stewpan, and fry the meat, kidney, parsley, and onion
until brown. Put in the stock or water, salt and pepper, bring to the
boil, skim well, then cover, and simmer gently for 3 hours. Strain,
pound the meat if convenient, if not, rub as much as possible of it
through a wire sieve. Return the soup to the saucepan, and when
boiling add the puree of meat, and the flour (previously mixed smoothly
with a little water), simmer for a few minutes, and serve. If preferred,
the soup may be garnished with a little carrot and turnip, cooked and
cut into some small fancy shape.
Time. — From 4 to 4} hours. Average Cost, iod. to is. Seasonable
at any time. Sufficient for 4 persons.
73. — LIEBIG SOUP.
Ingredients. — 1 pint of stock, 1 teaspoonful “ Lemco ” salt and pep-
per, any garnish that is seasonable or liked.
Method. — This can be made thick or clear. It is quickly prepared, and
is very tasty as well as nourishing. To every pint of thick or clear
soup add 1 teaspoonful of Liebig’s Extract of Meat, called “ Lemco,” stir
until it boils, and serve hot. This soup may be varied to any extent
by adding such vegetables as carrots, turnips, celery, green peas,
asparagus, vermicelli or macaroni as a garnish. Bone stock or
gravy stock does well for this soup.
Time. — 5 minutes to make the soup. Average cost, without garnish,
about 6d.
74. — MACARONI SOUP. ( Fr . — Potage de Macaroni.)
Ingredients. — 3 pints of stock made from the bones and trimmings
of meat (see Bone Soup), 1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, 2 ozs. of macaroni,
salt and pepper.
Method. — Put the macaroni into boiling salted water and boil quickly
until tender (20 to 30 minutes), then cut it into short lengths. Boil the
stock, knead the flour and the butter together, add the compound to
the stock, and stir until it becomes smoothly mixed with it. Season
to taste, put in the macaroni, cook for 5 minutes, and serve.
Time. — 40 to 50 minutes. Average Cost, about 2d. without the stock.
Seasonable at any time. Sufficient for 6 persons.
Macaroni (Fr. macaroni). — In Italy, and especially with Neapolitans, macaroni is a popular
article of food It is prepared from hard varieties of wheat, which is ground to a fine meal and made
into a stiff paste with a small quantity of water. The mass, placed in a hollow, cylindrical vessel,
is squeezed through apertures of various sizes by means of a powerful screw. That pressed through
RECIPES FOR THICK SOUPS
169
fine holes is called vermicelli. While issuing from the holes, the macaroni is partially baked
by a fire placed below the cylinder, and at the same time it is drawn away and hung over rods to dry
either by artificial heat or in the sun ; the sun-dried macaroni is esteemed the best. Macaroni is
a nutritious and wholesome food, and is used for thickening soups, for puddings, and other forms
of cookery. Macaroni paste rolled out into flat cakes is cut into various shapes and devices, and
sold under the designation of “ pastes.”
75. — MILK SOUP. ( Fr . — Potage au Lait.)
Ingredients. — 3 pints of boiling milk, 2 ozs. of butter, 1 oz. of flour,
\ a small white cabbage finely shredded, salt and pepper.
Method.— Heat the butter in an enamelled or well-lined saucepan,
add the cabbage, and let it cook gently for 15 or 20 minutes. Now
add the boiling milk, simmer gently for about 10 minutes, then stir
in the flour, which must previously have been smoothly blended with
a little cold water. Stir and boil gently for 6 or 7 minutes, then
season to taste, and serve.
Time. — About 40 minutes. Average Cost, 8d. Sufficient for 6 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
76. — MULLIGATAWNY SOUP. (Fr.— Potage a
1’Indienne.)
Ingredients. — 2 quarts of water, 2 lb. of mutton (a tin of Australian
mutton may be used), 2 onions, 2 carrots, 2 apples, 1 small turnip, a
bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 2 tablespoonfuls of flour,
1 tablespoonful of curry powder, the juice of £ a lemon, salt.
Method.— Remove the fat from the mutton and melt it in the sauce-
pan. Have the apples and vegetables ready sliced, and when there is
sufficient liquid fat to fry them, take out the pieces of fat, put in
the vegetables, and cook them for 15 minutes. Sprinkle in the flour
and curry powder, fry for a few minutes, then add the meat in small
pieces, a teaspoonful of salt, the herbs and water. When the com-
pound boils, remove the scum as it rises, then cover and cook gently
for 3 hours. Strain, rub the meat through a wire sieve, and return to
the saucepan. When boiling, add the lemon-juice, season to taste, and
serve. Well-cooked rice should be handed round with this soup.
Time. — 4 to 4^ hours. Average Cost, is. 6d. to is. 8d. Seasonable at
any time. Sufficient for 6 persons.
Note. — The bones and remains of any kind of meat or poultry may be
used instead of Mutton. The soup would take its name from the materials
employed as
Oxtail Soup, Indian Style. (Fr. — Queue de Bceuf a l’lndienne.)
Rabbit Puree, Indian Style, (Fr. — Puree de Lapin a l’lndienne.)
77* — OX CHEEK SOUP. (Fr. — Potage de Moufle de
Boeuf.)
Ingredients. — 5 quarts of water, 1 ox cheek, 2 onions, 2 carrots, 1
17 o
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
turnip, i strip of celery, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, basil, mar-
joram, bay-leaf), 12 peppercorns, 4 doves, 2 blades of mace, 2 ozs. of
butter, 2 ozs. of flour.
Method. — Soak the cheek in salt and warm water for 5 or 6 hours,
changing it 2 or 3 times. Prepare the vegetables and cut them into
thick slices, melt the butter in a large stewpan, add the vegetables to
it, and fry until brown. Well wash the ox cheek, break the bones
into small pieces, and put them into the stewpan ; also put in the herbs,
seasonings, meat and water. Bring slowly to the boil, skim well,
put on the cover and simmer gently for 3 hours, or according to the
size of the cheek, strain, return the soup to the saucepan, and bring
to the boil. Mix the flour smoothly with a little cold water or stock,
pour it into the soup, stir and simmer for 5 or 6 minutes. Cut the
smaller pieces of meat into dice and add them to the soup, also cut a
few dice of cooked celery and carrot. Season to taste, and serve.
Time. — About 4 hours. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. Seasonable in winter.
Sufficient for 12 persons.
Thvme (Fr. thyni). — There are numerous species of this aromatic plant, which are native to the
temperate regions. The wild variety in Britain is characterized by its well-known fragrant smell.
The cultivated garden-thyme is indigenous to the south of Europe ; its young leaves and tops are
used for flavouring soups and sauces, and as an ingredient in stuffings. From the essential oil con-
tained in thyme a flavouring essence is prepared.
78.— OXTAIL SOUP. (Fr.— Potage de Queue de
Bceuf.)
Ingredients. — 1 oxtail, 2 quarts of second stock or water, 2 onions,
2 carrots, 1 turnip, 2 strips of celery, 2 ozs. of butter, 2 ozs. of lean ham
or bacon (cut into dice or cubes), a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme,
bay-leaf), 12 peppercorns, 2 cloves, salt, 1 glass of sherry, 1 table-
spoonful of cornflour.
Method. — Cut the tail into small joints, put it into a stewpan, cover
with cold water, boil up and strain. Dry the pieces of oxtail,
roll them in flour, put them with the ham and sliced vegetables and but-
ter into the stewpan, and fry until brown. Then add the stock, herbs
peppercorns, cloves, and salt, boil and skim well. Put on the lid
and cook very gently for about 4 hours. Strain, remove the fat, re-
turn to the stewpan, and when the soup boils add the sherry and corn-
flour smoothly mixed together, stir and cook for a few minutes.
Serve the smaller pieces of the tail in the soup, the remainder may be
re-heated in a good brown sauce and served as an entree.
Time. — 5^- to 6 hours. Average Cost, 2s. qd. without the stock.
Seasonable at any time. Sufficient for 6 persons.
The Ox (Fr. : Boeuf). — The name of various breeds of ungulated or " hoofed ” ruminants of the
sub-family Bovidae. Like the sheep, the ox (including under this designation also the cow) in its
domesticated state is one of the most valuable of animals for its flesh and the various products of its
skin, horns, hair, bones and milk. So highly was the ox prized by the ancient Egyptians that it
was regarded as a special object of worship, and at the present day the cow is still venerated by the
RECIPES FOR THICK SOUPS
171
Hindus. It forms one of the signs (Taurus) of the Zodiac, Oxen and sheep have from the earliest
ages been used for religious sacrifices, They also constituted the wealth of the earlier races. The
original stock of existing breeds is unknown. The Chiliingham cattle are a type of the older wild ox
and are supposed to be the descendants of the Urus, or " mountain bull,” inhabiting the forest districts
of Britain at the time of the Roman invasion, The Aurochs, or Lithuanian bison, is also an example
of the wild variety. The chief breeds in Britain are the Ayrshire, Alderney, Kyre, and Durham short-
horn, with crosses between these varieties, bred for food or the dairy. A large quantity of beef is
now imported from America and Canada. Beef constitutes the principal article of animal food, and
is highly nutritious, but less digestible than mutton, It's constituents are In too parts : Water,
72.0; proteids, 21.0 ; fats, 6.0 ; salts, 1.0,
79. — PARTRIDGE SOUP. ( Fr . — Potage de Perdrix.)
Ingredients. — 2 quarts of second stock, 1 cold roast partridge, or the
remains of two or three, J of a lb. of calf's or chicken’s liver, 2 ozs. of
lean bacon or ham, 2 ozs. of butter, if- ozs. of hour, 1 bouquet-garni
(parsley, basil, marjoram, thyme, bay-leaf), 1 glass of port or sherry,
salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut a teaspoonful of small dice from the breasts of the birds
and put them aside. Cut the remainder of the birds into small pieces,
the liver into thin slices, and the bacon into dice. Fry all these to-
gether in 1 oz. of butter until brown, then add the stock, bouquet-garni,
seasoning, and simmer gently for to 2 hours, keeping the compound
well skimmed ; strain, pound the meat in a mortar and rub it through
a sieve, or, when pounding is inconvenient, rub as much as possible
through a wire sieve. Melt the remaining oz. of butter, stir in the flour,
and cook until brown. Pour in the stock, stir until it boils, add the
puree of meat, wine, seasoning if necessary, the dice of partridge,
simmer for a few minutes, and serve.
Time. — -2-J- to 3 hours. Average Cost, qd. without stock and partridge.
Seasonable from September 1 to February. Sufficient for 6 persons.
The Partridge (Fr. perdrix). — The common partridge is in Britain the most abundant of the game
birds, and belongs to the same family as the grouse. Its general colour is ash-grey, varied by brown
and black. The male partridge is about 12 inches in length ; the female is somewhat smaller. It
feeds principally on grain and insects. The eggs are olive-brown, and the young brood is known
as a “ covey.” A characteristic of the partridges is their habit of associating together and frequenting
their native locality. The French partridge, or red-legged variety, a native of southern Europe,
is larger than the English variety, and is numerous in the eastern counties of England. It is stronger
on the wing than the English bird, and does not fly in coveys. The eye is pencilled in front and
behind by a white line, and its eggs are yellowish white marked with brown. In the United States
several species of quail are called partridges,
80. — QUEEN SOUP. (Fr. — Potage a la Reine.)
Ingredients. — i chicken, 3 quarts of white stock, 4 ozs. of bacon, x
carrot, 1 onion, 1 bunch of parsley, thyme, bay-leaf, 3 ozs. of butter,
1 oz. of almonds, 4 ozs. of breadcrumbs, chicken quenelles, seasoning,
\ a pint of milk.
Method. — Slice the bacon and put in a stewpan together with the
vegetables, herbs, etc. Place the chicken, previously trussed as for
boiling, on top, season with pepper and salt, pour in 1 quart of stock,
cover with a lid, and let it reduce slowly; add the remainder of the
stock, boil slowly, skim, and continue to boil until tender, Remove the
172
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
chicken, free it from skin and bones; pound the meat in a mortar with
breadcrumbs, season with salt and nutmeg, moisten with all the stock,
and rub through a fine sieve. Return to the stewpan. Peel and
pound the almonds, boil in milk and pass through a tammy. Add this
to the soup together with the butter just before serving. Serve the
soup with a garnish of small chicken quenelles, also a handful of freshly
cooked peas or asparagus points.
Average Cost. — 6s. iod. Sufficient for 8 persons. Seasonable at any
time.
8 1. — RABBIT SOUP WITH SORREL. (Fr.— Potage
de Lapin a l’Oseille.)
Ingredients. — 3 quarts of water, 1 rabbit, \ a lb. of shin of beef, 2 ozs.
of lean bacon, 1 onion, 1 small carrot, a few leaves of sorrel, 10 pepper-
corns, 2 cloves, 2 blades of mace, 2 ozs. of butter, i-| ozs. of flour, 1
dessertspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice,
salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the bacon into dice or cubes, the beef into small pieces,
and the rabbit into small joints : from the back cut one or two nice
fillets. Melt the butter in a large stewpan, and fry the beef, bacon,
and rabbit until brown ; put the small fillets aside, to be used later as
a garnish. Add the water, sliced carrot, the onion, into which the
cloves should be stuck, peppercorns, mace and salt, bring slowly to the
boil, and skim well. Cook slowly for 3 hours, then strain. Put the
beef into the stock-pot. The meat of the rabbit and the bacon pound
well, and rub through a fine sieve. Re-heat the soup, mix the flour
smoothly with a little cold stock, add it to the soup, stir and cook for a
few minutes. Put in the puree of meat. Wash the sorrel, cut it into
fine shreds, blanch, strain, and put into the soup. Cut the fillets of
fried rabbit into dice, and add them, together with the lemon-juice,
parsley, and any necessary seasoning, to the soup, and serve.
Time. — About 4 hours. Average Cost. 2s. qd. to 2s. 6d. Seasonable
from September to March. Sufficient for 10 persons.
82. — RABBIT SOUP (WHITE). (Fr.—. Potage de
Lapin.)
Ingredients. — 1 rabbit, 3 pints of second stock, 1 pint of water, 4 ozs.
of gammon of bacon, 1 onion, a piece of celery, 1 small bunch of savoury
herbs, 1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, -V a pint of milk, seasoning.
Method. — Skin the rabbit, wipe it with a damp cloth, and cut it up
into small pieces. Put it in a stewpan with 3 pints of stock and 1 pint
of water, bring it to the boil, skim, and add the bacon, the onion (stuck
with a clove), celery and herbs. Cook gently for i-l- hours, or until
RECIPES FOR THICK SOUPS
173
the meat is quite tender. Remove the best pieces of rabbit (these can
be used for croquettes, etc.), and the bunch of herbs. Melt the butter,
add the flour, mix well, stir in the milk, and boil. Stir into the
pan containing the soup, simmer for 20 minutes, season with salt,
pepper and nutmeg, and rub through a sieve. Re-heat, and add, if
liked, a cupful of cream. Serve with fried bread croutons.
Time. — i-l- to 2 hours. Average Cost, 2s. 3d. Sufficient for 8 persons.
Seasonable from October to January.
83. — RABBIT SOUP (BROWN.)
This is made in a similar manner as explained in the foregoing recipe,
the only difference being that the rabbit is fried after it is cut up, and
brown stock should be used. The bacon and rabbit should be fried in
dripping until they acquire a brown colour, after which the flour used
for thickening must be fried also. The stock and water is then
added, with the vegetables, etc. Cook gently for \\ hours, and strain,
season to taste, then serve. This soup should be of a dark fawn colour.
It is best to omit the cream mentioned in the foregoing recipe.
84. — RICE SOUP. ( Fr . — Potage au Riz.)
Ingredients. — 2 pints of white second stock, 1 pint of milk, the yolks
of 2 eggs, salt and pepper, 3 tablespoonfuls of rice.
Method. — Boil the stock, add the rice, previously well-washed,
and simmer gently for about hour, or until the rice is thoroughly
cooked. Rub through a hair sieve, return to the stewpan, add the milk,
and boil. Beat the yolks of the eggs with a little milk or cold stock,
let the soup cool slightly, then pour in the eggs and stir until the soup
thickens. Season to taste, and serve.
Time. — \ to 1 hour. Average Cost, 5d. to 6d. without the stock.
Seasonable all the year. Sufficient tor 6 persons.
Rice (Fr. : Riz). — This important food-plant, which belongs to the natural order of the Grasse!,
was long known in the East before it was introduced into Egypt and Greece, and forms the principal
article of diet of the Hindus and Chinese. It is now extensively cultivated in the low grounds of the
tropical and sub-tropical districts of South-East Asia, Egypt, China, Japan, Java, Central America,
and grows luxuriantly in the rich alluvial deposits of the Nile. The stalk of the rice plant varies
from one to six feet, and is erect, round, and jointed ; its leaves are large, firm, and spear-shaped ;
the seeds are white and oblong, varying in form according to the different varieties, as the Carolina'
Rangoon, Patna, and other kinds. Rice in the husk is called “ paddy.” It is a light and wholesome
food, but is very poor and deficient in proteids, fats, and salts, and therefore contains only a small
proportion of nitrogenous or flesh-forming matter, 5 in 100 parts, and should be used in combina-
tion with meat, peas, or beans to supply the proteids, fat, and common salt.
85. — SAGO SOUP. (. Fr . — Potage de Sagou a la Creme.)
Ingredients. — 3 pints of second stock, 1 pint of milk, \ a pint of cream,
3 ozs. of fine sago, the yolks of 3 eggs, 1 bay-leaf, sugar, salt and pepper.
Method. — Put the stock and bay-leaf into a stewpan, when boiling
174
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
sprinkle in the sago and cook gently for 20 minutes, or until the sago
is transparent. Add the milk, a good pinch of sugar, salt and pepper
to taste, and continue to simmer a few minutes longer. Beat the
yolks of the eggs and the cream together, add these to the soup, and
stir until it thickens, but it must not be allowed to boil or the eggs will
curdle. Remove the bay-leaf, and serve.
Time. — 40 minutes. Average Cost, iod. to is. without the stock.
Seasonable at any time. Sufficient for 8 persons.
Note. — This Soup, the principal ingredients of which are sago and eggs,
has always been considered very beneficial to the chest and throat. In
various quantities and indifferent preparations, sago and eggs have been par-
taken of by many famous singers, including the celebrated “ Swedish Night-
ingale,” Jenny Lind, with considerable benefit to the voice in singing.
Sago (Fr. : Sagoti). — A farinaceous food obtained from the cellular starchy pith of several species
of a genus of palms, especially Sagus Laevis and Sagus Rumphii, the latter yielding the finest kind of
sago. Both of these species are natives of the Malay Archipelago. The Malay word sagu means
" bread,” from the circumstance that sago forms the chief farinaceous diet of the Malays. To procure
sago the trees, which grow to a height of about thirty feet, with a diameter of about one and a half feet,
are felled, with their flowering spike forms. From the stems, which are cut into convenient sections,
the pith is extracted, and beaten in receptacles of cold water to separate the starch granules from the
woody filaments with which they are associated. After washing and straining, the meal is dried.
For exportation the moist sago is dried and rubbed to smaller granular pellets, and according to the
size of these is designated “ pearl," “ medium," or “ bullet " sago. An imitation is made from potato
starch, but is easily detected by the microscope. A1 common variety of sago is made in India and
Ceylon from various palm-trees. Sago, from its ready solubility, is easy of digestion, and is a valuable
light, nutritious, farinaceous food. It is largely used In the preparation of soluble cocoas.
86. — SHIN OF BEEF SOUP. (Fr.— Potage de Boeuf.)
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of shin of beef, 3 quarts of water, 2 ozs. of butter
or dripping, 1 oz. of flour, 1 onion sliced, 1 carrot sliced, J of a turnip
sliced, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 6 peppercorns, salt.
Method. — Heat the butter in a saucepan, put in the prepared onion,
carrot and turnip, and fry them brown. Add the water, the meat cut
into small pieces, the bouquet-garni, peppercorns, and a little salt,
and simmer gently for 3 or 4 hours. Strain, skim well, re-heat, and
stir in the flour previously mixed with a little cold water. Boil
gently for 5 or 6 minutes, then serve garnished with a little cooked
vegetable, macaroni, or other farinaceous substance.
Time. — From 3^ to hours. Average Cost, is. 3d. to is. 5d. Sufficient
for 8 persons. Seasonable at any time.
87. — SOUP WITHOUT MEAT. (Fr. — Soupe Maigre.)
Ingredients. — 2 4 quarts of boiling water, 4 ozs. of butter, 2 onions cut
into dice, 1 head of celery cut into dice, 2 lettuces shredded, 2 handfuls
of spinach, 2 or 3 sprigs of parsley, 2 or 3 teaspoonfuls of vinegar, the
yolks of 2 eggs, salt and pepper,
RECIPES FOR THICK SOUPS
175
Method. — Heat the butter in a stewpan, add the prepared vegetables,
cover closely, and cook very slowly for about -3,- an hour. Now add the
boiling water and a seasoning of salt and pepper, and simmer gently
until all the vegetables are tender. Beat the yolks of eggs slightly,
add gradually a few tablespoonfuls of the boiling soup, and when
thoroughly blended add the preparation to the contents of the sauce-
pan. Stir and cook gently for a few minutes to cook the eggs, then
add salt, pepper, and vinegar to taste, and serve.
Time. — From 1]- to ij- hours. Average Cost, is. 3d. Sufficient for
7 or 8 perons. Seasonable at any time.
Lettuce (Fr. : Laitiie). — A herbaceous annual plant of the genus Lactuca of the order Composila
which includes the chicory tribe, with small pale yellow flowers. It grows in the temperate regions,
and the garden lettuce is cultivated as a salad herb. The lettuce was known to the Greeks and Romans,
and has been in use in England since the time of Elizabeth. There are various gardeners’ varieties of
the lettuce — modifications of the cabbage variety, and that with long oblong leaves. The lettuce
should be eaten while young ; when in flower it possesses narcotic and poisonous properties. From
the characterise milky juice of the lettuce, Lnctucorium , or “ lettuce opium,” used medicinally as an
anodyne, is prepared.
88.— SPRING SOUP WITHOUT MEAT.
(Fr. — Potage Printaniere Maigre.)
Ingredients. — 3 pints of water, 1 head of lettuce, J of a white-heart
cabbage, 1 carrot, 1 turnip, 1 onion, 2 leeks, \ a head of celery, 1 small
cauliflower, 4 ozs. of butter, croutons (or small slices) of toasted bread,
salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the flower of the cauliflower into small pieces and put
them aside, cut the tender part of the stalk into small pieces. Prepare
the rest of the vegetables and shred them finely, melt the butter in a
large stewpan, put in the shredded vegetables and the stalk of the cauli-
flower, and cook without browning for 20 minutes. Add to them the
water, salt and pepper, and cook gently until tender (about 1 hour) ;
20 minutes before serving, put in the sprays of cauliflower. Cut 2 or
3 slices of very thin well-browned toast into small dice, and put them
into the tureen. Add any necessary seasoning to the soup, and serve.
Time. — About ii- hours. Cost, iod. to is. Seasonable in spring.
Sufficient for 6 persons.
89.— TAPIOCA CREAM SOUP. (Fr.— Potage au
Tapioca.)
Ingredients. — 1 quart of white stock, or half stock and half milk,
\ of a pint of cream, the yolks of 3 eggs, 1 tablespoonful of fine sago or
crushed tapioca, salt and pepper.
176
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — The stock should be well flavoured, otherwise it must be
simmered with a little onion, carrot, celery and herbs, and then strained
tor use. Bring the stock to boiling point, sprinkle in the sago, or what-
ever is used in its place, and stir and cook until it becomes transparent,
then let the soup cool slightly. Mix the yolks of the eggs and the cream
together (a £ of a pint of milk may be substituted when it is not con-
venient to use cream), add to the soup and stir till it thickens : it
should have the consistency of single cream. When a thicker soup
is desired, mix a teaspoonful of flour or cornflour with a little milk,
and add it to the soup at the same time as the sago. Season to taste,
and serve.
Time. — -20 to 30 minutes. Cost, about 9d., not including the stock.
Seasonable at any time. Sufficient tor 8 persons.
90. — TOMATO SOUP. ( Fr . — Potage aux Tomates.)
Ingredients. — 1 quart of second stock or water, 2 lb. of tomatoes,
either fresh or tinned, 2 ozs. of lean ham (this may be omitted when
using stock), 1 oz. of butter, 1 tablespoonful of fine sago, 1 onion, 1
carrot, or bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), salt, pepper,
castor-sugar.
Method. — Slice the tomatoes, onion and carrot ; cut the ham into small
dice cubes. Melt the butter, add to it the ham, carrot and onion, fry
for 5 minutes, put in the tomatoes and herbs, and cook for 15 minutes
longer. Pour in the stock or water, and cook gently until the vege-
tables are tender, then rub the ingredients through a wire sieve. Re-
turn the soup to the stewpan, and when boiling sprinkle in the sago
and cook until it becomes transparent. Season to taste, add a good
pinch of sugar, and serve. Croutons, or small slices of fried or toasted
bread, should be served separately.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, gd. to iod. without the stock.
Seasonable at any time, but more especially in summer. Sufficient for 6
persons.
91. — TOMATO SOUP (without meat). (Fr. — Potage
de Tomate Maigre.)
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of fresh tomatoes, 1 Spanish onion, a small bunch
of mixed herbs, 3 pints of water, salt and pepper, 1 oz. of crushed
tapioca or semolina, 2 ozs. of butter.
Method. — Peel and slice the onion, cut the tomatoes into small slices.
Fry the onion a nice light brown in the butter, add the tomatoes, and
fry them a little, then put in the water and the bunch of herbs. Allow
RECIPES FOR THICK SOUPS
1 77
all to cook till tender, rub through a hair sieve, return to the stewpan,
season to taste with salt and pepper. When boiling, gradually add
the tapioca or semolina, and cook for io minutes longer. Serve with
small croutons of fried bread.
Time. — One hour. Average Cost, is. 3d. to is. yd. Seasonable at
any time. Sufficient for 6 persons.
92. — TOMATO AND LENTIL SOUP. (Fr.— Potage
de Tomates et Lentilles.)
Ingredients. — 2 pints of stock or water, 1 pint of milk, \ a pint of
lentils, 2 ozs. of lean bacon or ham, i£ ozs. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, 1 lb.
of tomatoes (fresh or preserved), 1 onion, 1 carrot, a turnip, 1 small
leek, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 12 peppercorns, 2
cloves, salt and pepper.
Method. — Wash and soak the lentils for 12 hours, and drain well
before using. Slice all the vegetables, and cut the bacon into dice.
Melt the butter in a stewpan, put in the ham and all the vegetables,
except the tomatoes, and cook slowly for a few minutes, then add the
tomatoes and lentils, cover closely, and steam the contents of the
stewpan for 15 or 20 minutes. Add the stock or water, bouquet-garni,
peppercorns, and cloves, and simmer for 3 hours, or until the lentils
are tender. Strain, return to the saucepan, and when boiling add the
milk. Mix the flour smoothly with a little stock or milk, and add it
to the boiling soup. Stir and simmer for a few minutes to cook the
flour, then season to taste, and serve.
Time. — 4 to 4J- hours. Average Cost, nd. or is. without the stock.
Seasonable at any time. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
93. — TURKEY SOUP. (Fr.— Potage de Dinde.)
Ingredients. — 2 quarts of white second stock, the remains of a cold
roast turkey, 2 ozs. of cooked macaroni, 1} ozs. of creme de riz (rice-
flour), 1 small onion, 1 bay-leaf, 1 small blade of mace, salt and pepper.
Method. — Divide the remains of the turkey and the bones into small
pieces, put them into a stewpan with the onion, bay-leaf, mace, and
a little salt and pepper or peppercorns, add the stock, and simmer
gently for 3 hours. Strain, return to the saucepan, add the creme
de riz, previously blended smoothly with a little cold stock or milk,
stir and boil gently for 7 or 8 minutes. Have the macaroni ready
boiled and cut into very short lengths, put it into the soup, season to
taste, make thoroughly hot, and serve.
Time. — About 3V hours. Average Cost, qcl., in addition to the stock
and turkey. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable in winter.
The Turkey (Fr. : Dindon). — This well-known bird is a native of North America, where it abounds
in a wild state. It was introduced into England in the sixteenth century. The plumage of the wild
male bird is a golden bronze, shot with violet and green, banded with black. The turkey is much
esteemed for the excellence of its flesh and eggs. In its domesticated state it is a very delicate bird and
difficult to rear.
178 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
94. — TURTLE SOUP. (Fr.—, Potage Tortue.)
(Founded on M. Ude’s Recipe.)
Ingredients.— A very small turtle, 6 slices of ham, 2 knuckles' of veal,
1 large bunch of sweet herbs, 3 bay-leaves, parsley, green bnions, 1
onion, 6 cloves, 3 blades of mace, J lb. of fresh butter, 1 bottle of
Madeira, 1 lump of sugar.
For the Quenelles a la tortue 1 lb. of veal, 1 lb. of breadcrumbs,
milk, 7 eggs, cayenne, salt, spices, chopped parsley, the juice of 2
lemons.
Method. — To make this soup more easily, cut off the head of the turtle
the preceding day. In the morning open the turtle by leaning heavily
with a knife on the shell of the animal’s back, while you cut this off
all round. Turn the turtle upright on its end to drain out all the water,
etc., then cut the flesh off along the spine with the knife sloping towards
the bones, so as to avoid touching the gall, which sometimes may
escape the eye. When all the flesh about the members is obtained,
wash these clean, and let them drain. Have ready, on the fire, a large
vessel full of boiling water, into which put the shells ; when you per-
ceive that they come off easily, take them out of the water, and prick
them all, with those of the back, belly, fins, head, etc. Boil the back
and the belly until the bones can be taken out, without, however,
allowing the softer parts to be sufficiently done, as they will be boiled
again in the soup. When these latter come off easily, lay them on
earthen dishes singly for fear they should stick together, and put them
to cool. Keep the liquor in which you have blanched the softer parts,
and let the bones stew thoroughly in it, this liquor being valuable for
moistening sauces.
All the flesh of the interior parts, the four legs and head, must be
drawn down in the following manner : Lay the slices of ham on the
bottom of a very large stewpan, over them the knuckles of veal, accord-
ing to the size of the turtle ; then the inside flesh of the turtle, and, over
the whole, the members. Now moisten with the water in which you
are boiling the shell, and draw it down thoroughly. You may now
ascertain if it be perfectly done by thrusting a knife into the fleshy
part of the meat. If no blood appears, it is time to moisten it again with
the liquor in which the bones, etc., have been boiling. Put in a large
bunch of all such sweet herbs as are adapted for the cooking of a turtle
— sweet basil, sweet marjoram, lemon thyme, winter savory, 2 or 3
bay-leaves, common thyme, a handful of parsley and green onions, and
a large onion stuck with 6 cloves. Let the members be thoroughly
cooked, probe them to see if they are done, and if so, drain
and send them to the larder, as they are to make their appearance
only when the soup is absolutely completed. When the flesh is
also completely cooked, strain it through a silk sieve, and make a
RECIPES FOR THICK SOUPS
179
very thin white roux (i.e., a preparation of butter and flour), for turtle
soup must not be thickened very much. When the flour is sufficiently
done on a slow fire, and has a good colour, moisten it with the liquor,
keeping it over the fire until it boils. Ascertain that the sauce is neither
too thick nor too thin ; then draw the stewpan to the side of the stove
and skim off the white scum, and all the fat and oil that rises to the
surface of the sauce. By this time all the softer parts will be sufficient-
ly cold ; they must be cut about 1 or 2 inches square, and thrown
into the soup, which must now be left to simmer gently. When
done, skim off all the fat and froth. Take all the leaves of the
herbs from the stock — sweet basil, sweet marjoram, lemon thyme,
winter savory, 2 or 3 bay-leaves, common thyme, a handful of parsley
and green onions, and a large onion cut in 4 pieces, with a few blades of
mace. Put these in a stewpan, with about \ of a lb. of fresh butter,
and let it simmer on a slow lire till quite melted, then pour in 1 bottle
of good Madeira, adding a small piece of sugar, and let it boil gently
for 1 hour. When done, rub it through a tammy-cloth, and add it
to the soup. Let this boil till no white scum rises ; then with a skimmer
remove all the bits of turtle out of the sauce, and put them in a clean
stewpan ; when }mu have taken all out, pour the soup over the pieces
of turtle, through a tammy-cloth, and proceed as follows : —
Quenelles a la Tortue. — Make some quenelles a la tortue, which do not
require to be very delicate, being substitutes for eggs. Take from the
fleshy part of a leg of veal about 1 lb., scrape off all the meat, without
any sinews or fat. Soak about the same quantity of crumbs of
bread in milk. When the bread is well soaked, squeeze it, and
put it into a mortar with the veal, a small quantity of calf’s udder, a
little butter, the yolks of 4 eggs, boiled hard, a little cayenne pepper,
salt and spices, and pound the whole very fine ; then thicken the
mixture with 2 whole eggs and the yolk of another. Next try this farce
or stuffing, in boiling hot water, to ascertain its consistency ; if it is too
thin, add the yolk of an egg. When the farce is perfected, take half of
it, and put into it some chopped parsley. Let the whole cool, then form
it into the shape and size of the yolk of an egg ; poach them in salt and
boiling water, and when very hard drain on a sieve, and put it into the
soup. Before serving, squeeze the juice of 2 or 3 lemons upon a little
cayenne pepper and pour into the soup. The fins may be served
as an entree with a little turtle sauce ; if not, on the following day
you may warm the turtle in the bain marie, and serve the members
entire, with a matelote sauce, garnished with mushrooms, cocks’
combs, quenelles, etc. When either lemon-juice or cayenne pepper
has been introduced no boiling must take place.
Note.. — It is necessary to observe that the turtle prepared a day before it
is used is generally preferable, the flavour being more uniform. Be particular,
when you dress a very large turtle, to preserve the green fat in a separate stew-
pan (be cautious not to turn it a brown colour — the natural green of the
i8o
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
fish is preferred by every epicure and true connoisseur), and also when the
turtle is entirely done, to have as many tureens as you mean to serve each
time. You cannot put the whole in a large vessel, for various reasons : first,
it will be long in cooling ; secondly, when you take some out, it will break
all the rest into rags. If you warm it in a bain-marie (a vessel immersed in
another outer vessel of water), the turtle will always retain the same taste ;
but if you boil it often it becomes strong, and loses its delicacy of flavour.
The Cost of Turtle Soup. — This is the most expensive soup brought to
table. It is sold by the quart — one guinea being the standard price
for that quantity. The price of live turtle ranges from 8d. to 2S. per
lb., according to supply and demand. When live turtle is dear, many
cooks use the tinned turtle, which is killed when caught, and pre-
served by being put into hermetically-sealed canisters, and so sent
over to England. The cost of a tin, containing 2 quarts, or 4 lb.,
is about £1, and for a small one, containing the green fat, 3s. 6d. From
these about 6 quarts of good soup may be made. Sun-dried turtle is
also sold, and answers very well. It requires to be soaked as well as
stewed for a long time, and put into good stock.
The Green Turtle (Fr. : Tortue) is the best known of the various species of turtles, from the fact
that its flesh furnishes the materials for the rich soup so highly prized as a table delicacy. The fat of
its upper and lower shields is considered the richest and most delicate part. The green turtle is an
inhabitant of the warm seas of the Atlantic and Indian Oceans, and is common at the Antilles and
round the coast of Ascension Island. It attains the dimensions of five to seven feet, and often weighs
about 700 pounds. The eggs of the green turtle are esteemed a delicacy. Turtles are amphibious
and feed upon marine plants. The turtle as an article of luxury is popularly associated with the Lord
Mayors’ banquets.
95. — VEGETABLE SOUP. (Fr. — Potage aux Le-
gumes.)
Ingredients. — 2 carrots, 1 turnip, x onion, 1 leek, 2 strips of celery,
1 dessertspoonful of finely chopped parsley, 2 ozs. of butter, 1^ ozs. of
flour, 1 pint of boiling water, 1 pint of milk, salt and pepper.
Method. — Prepare the vegetables and cut them into strips about the
size of a short and rather thick match. Melt the butter in a stewpan,
and fry the vegetables very slowly until the butter is absorbed, then
add the water, f of the milk, salt and pepper, and simmer gently until
the vegetables are tender (5 to 10 minutes). Mix the flour and the
rest of the milk smoothly together, pour the mixture into the saucepan,
stir and cook for a few minutes, then serve.
Time. — To prepare the vegetables, 20 to 30 minutes. To make the
soup, 25 to 30 minutes. Cost, about 5d. Seasonable at any time.
Sufficient for 4 persons.
96. — VEGETABLE SOUP (THICK). (Fr.— Potage
aux Legumes, Lie.)
Ingredients. — 1 quart of water, 1 pint of milk, 1 onion, 1 carrot, \ a
turnip, 4 tablespoonfuls of lentils, 2 tablespoonfuls of pearl-barley
RECIPES FOR THICK SOUPS
181
(rice, sago or tapioca may be used instead), i tablespoonful of flour,
\ a teaspoonful of salt, of a teaspoonful of pepper.
Method. — Wash the lentils in two or three waters, then put them
and the water into a saucepan and cook gently. Cut the vegetables into
dice or cubes. Blanch the barley by putting it into cold water and bring-
ing it to the boil, strain, wash well, and add it to the lentils. When
the lentils and barley are cooked, put in all the vegetables, salt and
pepper, simmer gently for 20 minutes, then add the milk. Mix the
flour smoothly with a little water, pour it into the soup, and stir
until it boils. Simmer a few minutes longer, season to taste, and serve.
Time. — 1 to 2 hours. Average Cost, 4d. to 6d. Seasonable at any
time, but more particularly so in winter. Sufficient for 6 persons.
97. — WHITE OR MILK SOUP. (Fr.— Potage au Lait.)
Ingredients. — 2-| pints ot milk, 3 tablespoonfuls of cooked rice, 1-^ ozs.
of flour, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped onion, 1 saltspoonful of finely-
chopped lemon-rind, \ of a saltspoonful ot ground mace, salt and
pepper.
Method. — Mix the flour smoothly with a little cold milk or water,
add it to the milk when quite boiling, and stir until it thickens slightly.
Put in the onion, lemon-rind, and a seasoning of salt and pepper,
simmer gently for 1 5 minutes, then add the prepared rice, and serve.
Time. — About \ an hour. Average Cost, 6d. Sufficient for 5 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
98. — WINTER SOUP. (Fr.— Potage d’Hiver.)
Ingredients. — 1 small white cabbage, 1 small onion, 1 leek, 1 oz. of
butter or dripping, 1 pint of milk, 1 oz. of sago or rice, salt and pepper,
1 slice of toasted bread, 1 quart of water.
Method. — Wash and trim the cabbage, cut the leaves into very fine
shreds, put them into salted boiling water and cook for 10 minutes;
take up and drain. Melt the butter in a saucepan, add the onion
and leek (previously peeled, cleaned and cut into thin slices), cook
a little, then add the cabbage, and stir the whole over the fire
for a few minutes longer. Moisten with a quart of water, boil,
skim, and simmer gently until all the vegetables are tender ; season
with pepper and salt, add the milk (boiling), put in the sago or rice,
and cook for another 20 minutes. Serve with small sippets of toasted
bread.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 6d. to 8d. Sufficient for 6 persons.
Seasonable in winter.
iSz
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
/
Purees,
99. — ALMOND SOUP. (Fr.— Potage d’Amandes d
la Creme.)
Ingredients. — 1 quart of milk, or half milk and half white stock, J of a
lb. of ground almonds, 2 hard-boiled eggs, 1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of flour
or cornflour, 1 onion, 2 strips of celery, salt and pepper.
Method. — Mince the onion and celery finely, put them into a stewpan
with the ground almonds, cover with cold water and simmer gently
for \ an hour, then rub through a fine sieve : rub the yolks of the eggs
through at the same time. In the meantime make the milk hot in the
saucepan, add to it the puree of almonds, onion, celery, and egg, and
boil up. Knead the butter and flour together, put these into the soup
and stir until smoothly mixed with it, cut the whites of the eggs into
dice, add them with the necessary seasoning to the soup, and serve.
Time. — 1 to ij hours. Average Cost, iod. to is. Seasonable at any
time. Sufficient for 6 persons.
Almond (Fr. : Amande). — This tree is indigenous to the northern parts of Asia and Africa, but it
is also cultivated in Europe, especially in the south of France, Spain, and Italy. It grows to about
twenty feet in height, and is allied to the peach, natural order Rosaccac. Its flowers, of a beautiful pink,
appear before the leaves are produced ; these are oval shaped, with serrated edges. The fruit is ovoid
in form, and covered with down, encasing the almond in a wrinkled shell. There are two varieties of
the almond-tree, one sweet and the other bitter. The chief kinds of sweet almonds are the Jordan
or Syrian, which comes from Malaga, the Valencian, and the Italian. Bitter almonds are imported
from Mogador, and in addition to a fixed oil, consisting chiefly of olein, which is common to both
varieties, bitter almonds contain a substance called emulsin and a bitter crystallizable body named
amygdalin ; the latter by its action on the former produces by distillation the essential oil of almonds,
the principal constituents of which are prussic acid, benzoic acid, and hydride of benzoyl. The essential
oil is used for perfuming soap, for flavouring confectionery, and in cookery ; but great care is necessary
in its use owing to the presence, as mentioned above, of the highly poisonous substance prussic acid.
100. — APPLE SOUP. (Fr.- — Puree de Pommes.)
Ingredients. — 2 quarts of second stock, 2 lb. of cooking apples, 3
cloves, J of an inch of root ginger, salt and pepper.
Method. — Peel, quarter, and core the apples, cut them into thick
slices, and add them with the cloves and ginger to the boiling stock.
Simmer gently until tender, then pass the whole through a fine sieve.
Re-heat, season to taste, and serve.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 6d. to Sd., exclusive of the stock.
Sufficient for 6 or 8 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Apple (Fr. : Pommc). — The apple is the most widely distributed of all the fruit-trees, and belongs
to the temperate regions, where it flourishes best ; it also grows in India, Persia, Arabia, Australia
and New Zealand. The original of all the varieties of the cultivated apple is the wild crab- tree ( Pyrus
mains), the fruit of which is small and very sour. The apple-tree is of moderate height, with oval
leaves and pinkish white flowers. There are numerous varieties of the cultivated apple, and new
ones are continually being added by cultivators. The various kinds are maintained and propagated
by grafts, cuttings and budding. The wood of the apple-tree is hard and close-grained, and is used
for cabinet work and turnery. The apple is of great antiquity, and was brought from the East by
the Romans, who esteemed it highly, and by them was probably introduced into Britain. Large
quantities of apples are imported into Great Britain from the Continent, the United States, Canada
and Australia. From the fermented juice of the apple cider is produced. Apples dried in ovens arc
termed “ biffins.” The apple contains a large percentage of water, and also malic acid, which is
used for medicinal purposes,
RECIPES FOR PUREES
183
101.— ARTICHOKE SOUP. (Fr.— Puree a la Pales-
tine.)
Ingredients. — 2 pints of white second stock or water, 1 pint of milk,
2 lb. of Jerusalem artichokes, 2 onions, 1 strip of celery, 1 oz. of butter,
pepper and salt.
Method. — Wash the artichokes, put a tablespoonful of vinegar into
a basin of water and keep the artichokes in it as much as possible while
paring them, to preserve their whiteness. Cut the onions, celery, and
artichokes into slices, make the butter hot in a stewpan, fry the
vegetables for 10 or 15 minutes without browning; then pour in the
stock and boil until tender. Rub through a tine sieve, return to the
saucepan, add the milk and seasoning, bring to the boil, and serve.
Time.— About ij- hours. Cost, 8d. to iod. without the stock. Season-
able from October to February. Sufficient for 6 persons.
Note. — When a thicker soup is desired a dessertspoonful of cornflour or flour
should be blended with a little milk or stock, and added to the soup a few
minutes before serving.
Bread (Fr. : Pain). — The use of bread is of the greatest antiquity, and is common to the most primi-
tive races. The earliest kind consisted of raw grain softened with water, pressed together, and then
baked. Cakes and similar forms of this unfermented bread made with bruised grain are still used
in the rural districts of northern Europe, and in other part9 of the world. All the cereal grains, as
millet, rice, maize, rye, barley and oats are utilized more or less by the inhabitants of the countries
where these are cultivated, but wheat is the most suited for the purpose of making the best qualities
of bread. Wheaten flour contains in slightly varying proportions, according to the kind of wheat
from which it is manufactured, starch, gluten — a grey, viscid, elastic, nitrogenous substance, con-
sisting chiefly of vegetable fibrine — sugar, gum, mineral matter and water. The various kinds of
bread are of two classes, un fermented or unleavened, as biscuits, Scotch barmock9, the corn bread
of the United States, Australian “ dampers ” ; and fermented or leavened bread of the ordinary house-
hold, and fancy varieties. Fermentation is usually produced by means of leaven or yeast, or by
baking powders. Aerated bread is made with aerated water, which is strongly impregnated with
carbonic acid under pressure. By law, all bread except fancy bread and rolls, must be sold by
weight.
102. — BREAD SOUP. (Fr.— Soupe au Pain.)
Ingredients. — 2 quarts of stock, broth, or pot-liquor, 1 lb. of bread-
crusts, salt and pepper.
Method.— Break the bread into small pieces, and place them m a
basin. Boil up the stock, pour sufficient over the bread to cover it,
let it remain closely covered until the bread is quite soft, then beat
out the lumps with a fork. Add the bread thus prepared to the re-
mainder of the stock, boil up, simmer gently for 10 or 15 minutes,
then season to taste, and serve.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, is. 2d. when made of second
stock. Sufficient for 6 or 8 persons. Seasonable at any time.
184 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
103.— BROAD BEAN SOUP. (Fr.— Puree de Feves.)
Ingredients. — 3 pints of second stock or water, 1 pint of beans shelled,
2 ozs. of lean bacon or ham (this may be omitted when using stock),
1 dessertspoonful of chopped onion, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped
parsley, a dessertspoonful of flour, 1 oz. of butter, salt, pepper, sugar.
Method. — Boil the beans in salted water for 10 or 15 minutes, then
drain and remove the skins. Melt the butter in the stewpan, add the
bacon in small pieces, the onion, and parsley, and fry for about 5 minutes,
then put in the stock, and when boiling add the beans. Simmer gently
until the beans are tender (20 to 30 minutes unless very old), then rub
through a fine sieve. Return to the stewpan, and when boiling, add the
flour, previously blended with a little stock or water, and stir until it is
mixed smoothly with the stock. Season to taste, add a good pinch of
sugar, and serve. Croutons, or small slices of fried or toasted bread,
should be handed separately.
Time. — From 40 to 60 minutes. Cost, about 6d. Seasonable from
June to August. Sufficient for 6 persons.
104. -BRUSSELS SPROUTS SOUP. (Fr.— Puree de
Choux de Bruxelles.)
Ingredients. — i-l- lb. of Brussels sprouts, 3 pints of good stock, 1 gill
of cream, a small piece of soda, salt, pepper and grated nutmeg.
Method. — Wash and trim the sprouts, cook them in salted water
containing a very small piece of soda (to preserve the colour) till
tender. Drain well and rub through a sieve. Put the pureein a stew-
pan with the stock, boil, and let it simmer for a few minutes, skimming
meanwhile. Season to taste, add the cream, keep hot until wanted
for table, but on no account let the soup boil after the cream is added.
Time. — \ hour. Average Cost, 2s. od. Sufficient for 6 persons.
Seasonable from September to February.
105. — CARROT AND LENTIL SOUP. (Fr.~ Crecy
aux Lentilles.)
Ingredients. — 3 quarts of stock or water, 1 pint of lentils, 4 carrots
sliced, 2 onions sliced, 1 good lettuce shredded, 2 tablespoonfuls of
cooked rice, 2 ozs. of butter or fat, salt and pepper.
Method. — Let the lentils soak all night, then wash and drain them
well. Heat the butter or fat in a saucepan, put in the vegetables,
RECIPES FOR PUREES
185
and let them fry slowly for 15 minutes. Now add the lentils and stock
or water, season with salt and pepper, cover closely, and simmer gently
from | hour to 1 hour, or until the lentils are tender. Pass the whole
through a sieve, return to the saucepan, make thoroughly hot, then add
the cooked rice, season to taste, and serve.
Time. — From ii to 2 hours. Average Cost, 8d., when made of water.
Sufficient for 10 persons. Seasonable in winter.
106.— CARROT SOUP. (Fr.— Puree a la Crecy.)
(Economical.)
Ingredients. — 2 pints of second stock or water, 1 pint of milk, 3 large
carrots, \ a turnip, 1 onion, 2 strips of celery, 1 oz. of butter or dripping,
1 tablespoonful of flour, salt and pepper.
Method. — Prepare the vegetables, cut them into small pieces, and
fry without browning for about 15 minutes in the hot fat. Add the
stock and simmer until the vegetables are tender (not less than 40
minutes, and longer if the vegetables are old), then rub through a fine
sieve. Return to the saucepan, add the milk, salt and pepper, and
bring to the boil. Mix the flour with a little milk or water, pour it
into the soup, stir and cook for 10 minutes, and serve. Croutons
or small pieces of fried or toasted bread should be served separately.
Time.— 1 to i| hours. Average Cost, about 6d. without stock. Season-
able at any time. Sufficient for 6 persons.
107.— CARROT SOUP WITH RICE. (Fr.— Puree
Crecy au Riz.)
Ingredients. — 2 pints of white second stock, 1 pint of milk, 5 large
carrots, 1 onion, 1 strip of celery, 1 leek (the white part only), \\ ozs.
of butter, 1 tablespoonful of cornflour, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream,
2 tablespoonfuls of cooked rice, salt, pepper, sugar, nutmeg.
Method. — Use only the outer red part of the carrots. Cut all the
vegetables into small pieces, and cook them for 10 or 15 minutes in
hot butter without browning. Add the stock and simmer until the
vegetables arc tender (about 40 minutes), then rub them through a
fine sieve. Return to the stewpan, add the milk, salt, pepper, and a
little nutmeg, and bring to the boil. Mix the cornflour with a small
quantity of stock or milk, pour it into the soup and stir for a few
minutes, then add a good pinch of sugar, the cream, and the rice (which
should be nicely cooked, and dry), and serve.
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1 86
Time.— 1£ to O- hours. Average Cost, about 9d. or iod. without the
stock. Seasonable at any time. Sullieient for 6 persons.
108. — CAULIFLOWER SOUP. (Fr.—Creme de Chou-
fleur.)
Ingredients. — 2 small cauliflowers, 1 oz. of ground rice (creme de riz),
1 gill of cream, i-|- pints of white stock, 2 ozs. of crushed tapioca, \ an
oz. of castor sugar, nutmeg, 1 pint ol milk, salt and pepper.
Method. — Wash and trim the cauliflowers, cook them in salted water
till tender, drain (keep the water), and rub the flower through a tine
sieve. Bring the water in which the cauliflower has been cooked to the
boil, stir in the crushed tapioca, and simmer for 20 minutes. Mix the
creme de riz, or ground rice, with a little cold milk, boil up the re-
mainder of the milk with the stock, stir in the ground rice, and cook,
for a few minutes, stirring all the while ; add the cauliflower water,
season with salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg to taste, bring it to the
boil, put in the cream and stir a little longer, but do not let it boil
again. The puree is now ready for serving.
Time. — One hour. Average Cost, 2s. Seasonable at any time.
Sufficient for 6 persons.
I09. — CELERY CREAM WITH CROUTONS.
(Fr. — Creme de Celeri aux Croutons.)
Ingredients. — 3 heads of celery, 4 ozs. of butter, 3 ozs. of flour, 2
quarts of first stock, 1 pint of milk, -} a pint of cream, salt, pepper and
nutmeg, \ a teaspoonful of castor sugar, croutons of fried bread.
Method. — Trim the celery, pare off the green parts and wash thor-
oughly, cut it into small pieces, and blanch in slightly salted water.
Drain well, and return to the stewpan with 3 ozs. of butter. Cook for
a few minutes over a brisk fire without allowing the ingredients to
brown ; moisten with a little stock, add salt, pepper, and nutmeg to
taste, cover, and simmer slowly for 30 minutes. Mix the flour with
the remainder of the butter in another stewpan, and cook a little with-
out browning. Dilute with the milk, add the stock and partly
cooked celery. Let it simmer until the celery is tender, then pass the
whole through a fine sieve. Boil again, skim, add the sugar and
more seasoning if needed, and lastly the cream. Re-heat the com-
pound, without allowing it to boil and pour into a soup tureen. Serve
the bread croutons separately.
Time. — About 1 J hours. Average Cost, 4s. Seasonable from Septem-
ber to February. Sufficient for 8 to 10 persons.
RECIPES FOR PUREES
187
210.— CELERY SOUP. (Fr.- ---Puree de Celeri.)
(Good.)
Ingredients. — 2 pints of white stock, 1 pint of milk, 1 large or 2 small
heads of celery (the white part only), 2 small onions, a bouquet-garhi
(parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 1 oz. of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of rice,
2 tablespoonfuls of cream, salt and pepper.
Method. — Wash the rice well, slice the celery and onions. Melt the
butter in a stewpan, and fry the vegetables in it for 10 minutes without
their changing colour. Put in the stock, bouquet-garni, rice, salt and
pepper, and simmer gently until tender, then strain. Rub the rice
and vegetables through a hair sieve, return the soup and puree to the
stewpan, add the milk and bring to the boil. Season to taste, stir in
the cream, and serve.
Time. — 1 to 1-]- hours. Average Cost. — -is. 9b. Seasonable from Sep-
tember to February. Sufficient for 6 persons.
Celery (Fr. : Celeri) is native to Britain, and in its wild state grows by the side of ditches and
brooks, and along the seashore and in saline situations in England and Ireland. In this state it is
called smallage, and is to some extent a dangerous narcotic. Celery has long been cultivated hs a salad
and culinary vegetable. Its thick leaf stalks, which have been brought to the fine flavour* which
renders this plant so agreeable an adjunct to the table, are blanched by piling soil over the stalk9
during their growth and thus excluding the light. Celery acts as a diuretic.
2 11. — CELERY SOUP. {Fr.— Puree de Celeri.) (Eco-
nomical.)
Ingredients. — -2 pints of water, 1 pint of milk, 2 ozs. of lean bacon or
ham, 1 oz. of butter, 1+ tablespoonfuls of flour, 1 large head of celery,
2 onions, salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the ham into dice or cubes, slice the onlort and celery.
Melt the butter in a stewpan, fry the vegetables without browning,
put in the bacon, salt, pepper and water, and simmer for 30 to 40
mimtte9, or until the celery is tender. Strain, rub through a tine sieve,
return to the saucepan, add the milk and bring to the boil. Mix the
flour with a little milk, stir and cook for 5 or 6 minntes, then season to
taste, and serve.
Time. — About t hour. Average Cost, 6d. to 8d, Seasonable from Sep-
tember to February. Sufficient for 6 persons.
1 12.— CHANTILLY SOUP. (Fr.— Potage Chantilly.)
Ingredients.— 2 quarts of second stock, 1 quart of shelled peas, a
handful of spinach, 2 or 3 sprigs of parsley, a sprig of mint, 1 small
onion sliced, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, salt and pepper.
i88
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Place a few peas aside to be used as garnish, put the re-
mainder into the boiling stock, add the spinach, parsley, mint and
onion, and boil gently until the peas are tender. Rub the whole
through a wire sieve, re-heat, season to taste, add the cream and the
whole peas, which must have been previousy cooked, make thoroughly
hot, and serve.
Time. — From J to i hour. Average Cost, from is. to is. 3d., exclusive
of the stock. Sufficient for 6 or 8 persons. Seasonable in summer.
1 13.— CHESTNUT SOUP. (Fr.— Puree de Marrons.)
Ingredients. — 2 pints of white stock, 1 pint of milk, 1 \ pints of chest-
nuts, 1 oz. of butter, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of
cream, sugar, salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut off the tops of the chestnuts and roast or bake them for
20 minutes, then take off the outer and inner skins. Put the stock,
chestnuts, salt and pepper into a stewpan and simmer until tender
(about 45 minutes), then rub through a fine sieve. Return to the stew-
pan, add the milk, and boil up. Knead the butter and flour together,
add the mixture to the soup, and stir until it becomes smoothly mingled
with it. Season to taste, add the cream and a good pinch of sugar, and
serve.
Time. — ij- to if hours. Average Cost, is. iod. Seasonable from
November to January. Sufficient for 6 persons.
The Chestnut (Fr. : Matron ), which belongs to the order Cupuli/erae, is allied to the beech. The
common sweet, or Spanish chestnut, is supposed to have been introduced into Sardinia from Sardis
in Asia Minor, of which it is probably a native, and has long been naturalized in Europe ; the Romans
are said to have brought it into Britain, where it is now widely distributed. The chestnut attains a
great size and age, and its large serrated dark leaves form a pretty object in parks and the open country.
As an article of food the chestnut is the least oily and most farinaceous of all the nuts, and for this
reason is the most digestible. It was much eaten by the Romans, and is still commonly used as a
comestible, both raw and roasted, in France and Italy. The wood of the chestnut- tree, although
inferior to the oak, which it much resembles in appearance, when old is used for various purposes.
The horse-chestnut, the fruit of which is similar to the edible chestnut, is quite a different tree, and
has no connexion with the genus Costarica, to which the Spanish chestnut belongs.
1 14. — COCOANUT SOUP.(Fr. — Potage au Noix de Coco.)
Ingredients. — 2 quarts of second stock, 4 ozs. of grated cocoanut,
preferably fresh, 2 ozs. of rice flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, mace,
salt and pepper.
Method. — When desiccated cocoanut is used it should be previously
soaked for 2 or 3 hours in a little of the stock. Boil the stock, add
a small blade of mace and the cocoanut, and simmer gently for 1 hour.
Mix the rice flour smoothly with a little stock, boil the remainder,
add the blended rice flour, and stir and boil gently for about 10 minutes.
Season to taste, stir in the cream, and serve.
RECIPES FOR PUREES 189
Time. — About \\ hours. Average Cost, pd. , exclusive of the stock.
Sufficient for 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
The Cocoa-nut or Coco-nut (Fr. : Noix de coco). — This is the fruit of a species of palm, a native
of the Indian coasts and the South Sea Islands, from whence it has been introduced and become
naturalized in most parts of the tropical regions. It flourishes best in the vicinity of the sea-shore.
The tree grows frequently to the height of 50 to 100 feet. The trunk is straight and naked, and is
about two feet in diameter, the feather-shaped leaves forming the top or crown, from which the
nuts hang in clusters. The fruit itself, covered by a hard shell, is inclosed in a fibrous husk ; within
the nut is a clear sweet liquid. Few plants possess so many and useful properties as the cocoa-nut.
From its wood the natives obtain the building material for their houses and canoes. The leaves are
used for thatching roofs, making baskets and articles of clothing. Coir for making ropes, brushes, and
mats is obtained from the fibre of the husks. The hard shells are polished and made into drinking
cups, lamps, and various domestic and other useful articles ; the hard wood of the tree, known as
“ porcupine wood,” is employed for a variety of ornamental purposes. The kernels, dressed in
various ways, are used as food, and the expressed oil of the nut is exported for use in the manufacture
of candles, soap, and pomades ; the oil when fresh is used in cookery. In southern India and other
countries the cocoa-nut forms one of the staples of life. From the white sweetish sap toddy is made,
and from it by distillation a variety of the spirit arack is obtained. Vinegar and sugar are also products
of this juice. The terminal buds of the cocoa-nut tree when boiled resemble cabbage. The milk
of the cocoa-nut supplies a refreshing beverage.
115. — CORN SOUP.
Put the corn removed from 3 cobs of corn (or Indian maize) into
1 pint of fast-boiling water, and cook for about 10 minutes. Drain them
and cook till tender in 2 pints of stock and | of a pint of milk. Season
to taste with salt and pepper, and add a small piece of butter just before
serving.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, is. 6d. to is. pd. per quart.
Sufficient for 5 persons. Seasonable at all times.
1 16. — CUCUMBER CREAM. (Fr.— Creme de Con-
combre.)
Ingredients. — 1 large or 2 small cucumbers, 2 lettuces, 3 ozs. of fresh
butter, 1 quart of white stock, the yolks of 3 eggs, 1 gill of cream,
1 tablespoonful of patent cornflour, salt and pepper, a handful of fried
bread croutons.
Method. — Peel the cucumbers and cut them into slices. Trim, wash,
drain, and coarsely shred the lettuces ; blanch the cucumber and
lettuces in salted water containing a very small piece of soda. Strain
off the water, and put the vegetables in a stewpan with the butter ;
stir for a few minutes, then add the stock. Mix a tablespoonful of
cornflour with a little cold milk, and stir into the soup. Cook for about
30 minutes, rub it through a fine sieve, then return to the stewpan
and reheat. Stir the yolks of the eggs and the cream together, pour this
into the soup, and stir over the fire for a few seconds longer. Season
to taste with pepper and salt. Put the fried bread croutons in a soup
tureen, pour the soup over them, and send to table.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 2s. pd. per quart. Seasonable,
May to September. Sufficient for 5 persons.
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
190
1 17.— CUCUMBER CREAM, INDIAN STYLE.
(Fr. — Creme de Concombre a l’lndienne.)
Ingredients. — 1 cucumber, 2 onions (medium size), 1 calf’s brain,
2 quarts of stock, 1 teaspoonful of mulligatawny paste, a gill of cream,
1 oz. of fresh butter, the yolks of 3 eggs, salt, pepper and nutmeg.
Method. — Peel the cucumber, cut it up into short pieces, and cook in
salted water till tender; peel the onions, slice them, and cook them
in the same manner as the cucumber. Blanch the calf’s brain and cook
likewise. Drain the onions and the brain, and pound them together
in a mortar, add the mulligatawny paste and the butter. Put this
in a stewpan with the stock, add the cucumber, and boil for 20 minutes.
Rub the whole through a sieve, return to the stewpan, re-heat, add the
yolks of eggs and the cream, season to taste with salt, pepper, a tiny
pinch of sugar, and a pinch of nutmeg. Stir long enough to bind the
eggs, and serve.
Time. — 1 hour. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. to 3s. Sufficient for 8 persons.
Seasonable from May to September.
1 18. — -CUCUMBER SOUP. (Fr— Puree de Concom-
bres.)
Ingredients,— 2 pints of white stock, 1 pint of milk, 2 large cucumbers,
2 ozs. of butter, 2 ozs. of Hour, the yolks of 2 eggs, 2 tablcspoonfuls
of cream, salt and pepper.
Method.— Peel the cucumbers, cut into thick slices, quarter them and
remove the seeds. Have ready a saucepan of boiling water, put in the
cucumber and a little salt, boil for 10 minutes, then drain. Melt 1 oz.
of butter in a stewpan, put in the cucumber, cover and let it steam in
the butter for about b an hour, then rub through a hair sieve. Melt
the remaining oz. of butter in the stewpan, add the flour, pour in the
stock and milk (hot), and stir until boiling. Add the puree of cu-
cumber, simmer for a few minutes, then let the soup cool slightly. Beat
the yolks of the eggs and cream together, pour the mixture into the soup
and stir until it thickens, taking care that it does not boil, or the eggs
will curdle. Season to taste, and serve with croutons of fried bread.
Time. — 1 to 1 \ hours. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. Seasonable from May to
September. Sufficient for 6 persons.
The Cucumber (Fr. : Concombre). — This plant or fruit belongs to the order of the Cucurbitaceae or
gourds. It is of great antiquity, and is a native of Egypt and Asia. As in ancient times, in Egypt
and the East the cucumber, with other fruits of its class, constitute a large portion of the food of the
people. It was cultivated in England in the fourteenth century, but it is only since the reign of
Henry VIII. that the cucumber came generally into use as a table vegetable. It is much used as a
salad, and young cucumbers, known as “ gherkins,'' are made into pickles. The cucumber in its raw
state is not very digestible.
RECIPES FOR PUREES
191
1 19. — EGG SOUP. (Fr. — Potage aux CEufs.)
Ingredients.— 1 quart of good white stock, J of a pint of cream, the
yolks of 4 eggs, salt and pepper.
Method. — Beat the yolks of eggs slightly and add the cream. Bring
the stock nearly to boiling-point, add the liaison, or binding mixture,
of eggs and cream, and stir by the side of the fire until the soup thickens,
but do not allow it to boil, or the eggs may curdle. Season to taste,
and serve with croutons of fried or toasted bread.
Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, is. 9d. Sufficient for 5
persons. Seasonable at any time
1 20. — GREEN PEA SOUP. (Fr.— Puree de Pois Verts. )
Ingredients. — 2 pints of white stock, \ a pint of water, 1 quart of peas
(shelled), a handful of spinach (to improve the colour), a little mint,
2 ozs. of butter, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, salt and pepper.
Method. — Melt 1 oz. of butter in a stewpan, put in the peas, spinach,
and mint, put on the cover and let them steam in the butter for 15
or 20 minutes. Add the stock and water, and some of the pea-shells
if young and soft (they should of course be first washed in cold water),
boil quickly until tender, strain and rub the vegetables through a
fine sieve. Melt the remainder of the butter in the stewpan, sprinkle
in the flour, add the stock and puree, and stir until boiling. Season to
taste, and serve with croutons of fried bread. If preferred, a few cooked
green peas, and a little cream may be added to the soup before serving.
Time. — ij to i|- hours. Average Cost, is. 9d. to 2s. od. Seasonable
from June to September. Sufficient for 6 persons.
121. — HARICOT BEAN SOUP. {Fr,— Puree de Hari-
cots.)
Ingredients. — 2 pints of stock or water, 1 pint of milk, \ a pint of small
haricot beans, 1 oz. of butter, 1 onion, 1 strip of celery or a teaspoonful
seeds (tied in muslin), salt and pepper.
Method. — Wash the beans, and soak them in water for 12 hours.
Melt the butter in a stewpan, put in the onion and celery sliced, fry
for a few minutes without browning, then put in the beans, cover
closely, and let them steam for 1 5 or 20 minutes. Add the stock or
water, 1 a teaspoonful of salt, and simmer until tender (2-I- to 3 hours).
Strain, and rub the vegetables through a wire sieve. Return to the
stewpan, add the milk, and boil up. Season to taste, and serve.
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HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Time. — 3! to 4 hours. Average Cost, 6d. without the stock. Seasonable
at any time. Sufficient for 2 or 3 persons.
Note. — Haricot-bean, lentil and pea soup are often substituted for meat
by those catering for the poor, and the usual allowance is 1 pint per head.
122. — LENTIL SOUP. (Fr.— Puree de Lentilles.)
(Good.)
Ingredients. — 3 pints of second stock or water, 1 pint of milk, \ a pint
of brown lentils, 1 onion, 1 carrot, 2 strips of celery, a bouquet-garni
(parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 1 oz. of butter, 1 tablespoonful of flour,
salt and pepper, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream.
Method. — Wash the lentils, soak them for 24 hours, and when ready
to use, drain well. Melt the butter in a stew-pan, put in the vegetables,
sliced herbs, and lentils, cover closely and let them steam in the butter
for 15 or 20 minutes. Add the stock, salt and pepper, and cook gently
for 2 hours, or until tender, then rub through a fine sieve. Return to the
saucepan, add the milk and bring to the boil. Mix the flour with a
little milk or stock, add it to the soup, stir and simmer for 5 minutes.
Season to taste, add the cream, and serve. Croutons of fried or toasted
bread should be handed separately.
Time. — 2f- to 3 hours. Average Cost, 8d. to 9d. without the stock.
Seasonable at any time. Sufficient for 6 persons.
The Lentil (Fr. : Lentillc) belongs to the natural order Leguminosae or pulses, and is of the same
genus as the tares. The lentil is an annual plant, growing in height to about eighteen inches, with
pale blue or whitish flowers. Its short, smooth pods contain two seeds each, and these form in Egypt
and Syria, Bengal and other Eastern countries, an important article of food. There are two cultivated
varieties of the lentil, the large garden lentil and the field lentil. Its nutritive properties are of a high
order, and lentils cooked whole or in the form of meal are readily digested. Lentils form the basis of
many of the prepared foods for invalids owing to the fact above mentioned. The constituents of
lentils in ioo parts are : — Water, 12.5 ; proteids, 24.8 ; fats, 1.8 ; carbo-hydrates, 58.4 ; salts, 2.5. ,
123.— LENTIL SOUP. (Fr.— Puree de Lentilles.)
(Economical.)
Ingredients. — 3 quarts of water, 1 pint of lentils, 1 carrot, 1 strip of
celery, 1 oz. of dripping or bacon fat, salt and pepper, 1 tablespoonful
of flour.
Method. — Wash the lentils the day before the soup is wanted, strain,
and spread on a dish. Cover with another dish and let them remain
until ready for use. Slice the vegetables and fry them in the hot fat
for a few minutes, as this improves the flavour of the soup. Add the
water, and, when boiling, put in the lentils and boil gently for 2\ to
3 hours, or until the lentils are tender. If convenient rub them through
a wire sieve, if not, crush them by pressing them at the side of the stew-
RECIPES FOR PUREES
193
pan with a wooden spoon. Mix the flour with a little cold milk or
water, add it to the soup, stir and simmer for about 10 minutes, season
to taste, and serve.
Ham or bacon bones greatly improve the flavour of lentil soup ;
it may also be improved by using less water, and adding a correspond-
ing quantity of milk a few minutes before serving.
Time.— 3^ to 4 hours. Average Cost, 3d. Seasonable at any time.
Sufficient for 6 persons when followed by other substantial dishes.
124. — ONION SOUP. (Fr. — Puree aux Oignons.)
Ingredients. — 3 pints of white stock, 1 pint of milk, 3 Spanish onions,
3 potatoes, 1 strip of celery, 1 oz. of butter, iE ozs. of flour, salt and
pepper.
Method. — Peel and slice the vegetables. Make the butter hot in a
stewpan, and cook the vegetables in it for 15 minutes, but very slowly,
and stirring frequently to prevent them taking any colour. Add the
stock and simmer gently until tender (about 1 hour), then rub through
a fine sieve. Return to the stewpan, put in the milk and bring to the
boil. Mix the flour smoothly with a little milk, pour it into the soup,
stir and simmer for a few minutes, then season to taste, and serve.
Time. — 1} to 2 hours. Average Cost, jd. without the stock. Season-
able in Winter. Sufficient for 6 persons.
Onion (Fr. : Oignon). — The well-known root of a liliaceous plant of the genus A Ilium, which from
the earliest times has been known and cultivated. By the ancient Egyptians it was so highly valued
that it was elevated into an object of worship, its concentric rings being regarded as the symbol of
eternity. The onion is eaten raw, roasted, boiled, pickled, and as a flavouring for soups and stews.
Its strong odour and pungent taste are due to the preence of a superfluous volatile oil. There are
many varieties of the onion, the Spanish, Portugal and Strasburg being the most esteemed. Tnc
onion possesses highly nutritive properties.
125. — ONION SOUP. (Fr. — Puree aux Oignons.)
(Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 2 pints of water, iC pints of milk, 3 Spanish onions,
\ a turnip, 2 strips of celery, 1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, the yolks of
2 eggs, salt, pepper and bay-leaf, a blade of mace.
Method. — Cut the turnip and celery into small pieces, peel the onions,
put them into cold water, bring to the boil, cook for 10 minutes, then
drain and chop coarsely. Put 2 pints of boiling water into the stewpan,
add the onions, celery, turnip, bay-leaf, mace, salt and pepper, and
simmer until tender (about 1 hour). Rub through a fine sieve, return
to the saucepan, add the milk, and when boiling stir in the flour and
butter, previously kneaded together. Simmer a few minutes to cook
the flour, then let the soup cool slightly. Beat the yolks of the eggs
H
i94
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
with a little milk, pour them into the soup, and stir until they thicken.
Season, and serve with fried or toasted croutons of bread.
Time. — About \\ hours. Average Cost, 8d. or 9d. Seasonable in Winter
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
126. — PARSNIP SOUP. (Fr. — Puree de Panais.)
Ingredients. — 2 pints of second stock, 1 pint of milk, 3 or 4 parsnips,
1 onion, 2 strips of celery, 1 oz. of butter, the juice of a lemon, or 1
tablespoonful of vinegar, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, salt and pepper.
Method.— Slice the vegetables, artd fry them in the butter, without
browning, for about 15 minutes. Add the stock, and simmer until the
parsnips are tender (about 40 minutes), then rub through a wire sieve.
Return to the stewpan, add the milk, salt and pepper, and bring to the
boil. Mix the Hour with a little milk or water, pour it into the soup,
stir, and cook for 5 or 6 minutes. Add the lemon-juice and serve with
croutons of fried or toasted bread. The lemon-juice is added to correct
the sweetness of the parsnips, and is simply a matter of taste.
Time. — 1^ to i|- hours. Average Cost, about yd. without the stock.
Seasonable from October to April. Sufficient for 6 persons.
Parsnip (Fr. : Panais). — This is a biennial plant with bright yellow flowers and a root resembling
the carrot, which in saccharine and nutritive matter it nearly equals. Like the carrot, it grows w>M
in Britain, but only the cultivated parsnip is edible. It is generally distributed over most parts of
Europe, and in Roman Catholic countries forms with salt fish a Lenten dish. A beverage is made from
parsnips in conjunction with hops, and also a wine of agreeable flavour. The parsnip contains in ioo
parts: — Water, 82.5 ; proteids, 1.3; fats, 0.7 ; carbo-hydrates, 14.5; salts, 1.0.
127. — PEA SOUP. ( Fr . — Puree de Pois.)
Ingredients. — 2 quarts of stock or water (if water is used, ham or beef
bones, either cooked or uncooked will improve the soup), 1 pint of
dried split peas, 2 onions, 2 carrots, 1 small turnip, 2 strips of celery,
1 dessertspoonful of dried mint, salt and pepper, 1 oz. of flour.
Method. — Wash the peas and soak them for 12 hours in water. Put
them into a stewpan with the bones (if any) and the stock, and bring
to the boil. Slice the vegetables and add them to the stock when it
boils, and simmer for at least 3 hours. Then rub through a wire sieve,
return to the saucepan, add the flour mixed smoothly with a little
water, and boil. When the puree is thoroughly incorporated with
the soup, season to taste, and serve. The dried mint should be
placed in the tureen and the soup poured on to it.
Time. — 3-)- to 4 hours. Average Cost, 4d. when made with water.
Seasonable at any time. Sufficient for 6 persons.
Note. — When making pea soup in large quantities, the process of rubbing
the vegetables through the sieve is omitted, and the turnips, carrots, etc., are
cut into small pieces and added to the soup about 1 hour before serving.
RECIPES FOR PUREES
195
The Pea (Fr. : Pots). — The native country of the pea is unknown, but it is supposed to be indigero is
to South-Eastern Europe and Western Asia. It was well known to the Romans, and has been culti-
vated from remote antiquity. The pea, a leguminous plant of the genus Pisum , has many varieties,
including the garden pea and the field pea. When soft and juicy in the pods, peas are used
for the table under the designation of “ green peas.” When hardened, peas become farinaceous, and
a whitish and a blue variety which splits readily when subjected to the action of mill-stones specially
constructed for that purpose is used largely for soups. There are some varieties of peas which have
no inner filmy lining in their pods, known as “ sugar-peas.” The pods of these when young are fre-
quently eaten cooked in a similar manner to kidney-beans. By the Hindus peas parched and ground
and mixed with flour form an important article of diet. The pea is rich in nitrogenous matter, contain-
ing legumin or vegetable casein, and is therefore useful as a flesh-forming food. The following are the
constituents of peas in 100 parts: — Water, 15.6; proteids, 22.0; fats, 2.0; carbo-hydrates, 58. o,
salts, 2.4.
128. -POTATO SOUP. {Fr. —Puree de Pommes de
Terre.)
Ingredients. — i quart of white second stock, or water, \ a pint of milk,
1 lb. of potatoes, i onion, i strip of celery, i oz. of butter, i tablespoonful
of fine sago, or crushed tapioca, salt and pepper.
Method. — Slice the potatoes, onion, and celery. Make the butter
hot in a stewpan, add the vegetables, fry and cook until the butter is
absorbed, stirring freqently to prevent them browning. Add the
stock, and simmer until the vegetables are tender (about i hour).
Rub through a fine sieve ; return to the saucepan, add the milk and
bring to the boil. Sprinkle in the sago, cook until transparent, add
seasoning to taste, and serve.
Time. — About hours. Average Cost, 9d. to is. Seasonable at any
time. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
The Potato (Fr. : Pomme de terre). — Next to the cereals, the potato constitutes one of the most
important articles of vegetable food. It belongs to the natural order Solanacece , which includes the
nightshade, henbane, and tobacco, and is a native of the region of the Andes of South America, where
it grows wild ; but in the uncultivated state its tubers are watery and tasteless. It was first intro-
duced into Europe in the early part of the sixteenth century by the Spaniards, and in England by the
Elizabethan adventurers, Sir John Hawkins, Sir Francis Drake, and Sir Walter Raleigh. It was
grown on the estate of the last-named at Youghal, near Cork, and eaten as a food prior to its use in
England. The potato is rich in starch, of which it contains about 15 per cent., and combined with
wheaten flour makes excellent farinaceous foods. A strong coarse spirit, ” British brandy,” is ob-
tained from the potato by distillation. The skin of the potato contains “ Solanine,” a poisonous
substance, which is dissipated by boiling or steaming. Not being rich in flesh-forming constituents,
the potato is best used as an adjunct to meat or nitrogenous foods. The potato contains in 100 parts : —
Water, 74.0; proteids, 2.0; fats, 0.20; carbo-hydrates, 21.8; salts, 1.0.
129.— PUREE OF ASPARAGUS. (Fr.— Puree d’As-
perges.)
Ingredients. — 2 pints of white second stock or water, 1 pint of milk,
50 heads of asparagus, 1 Spanish onion, 1 strip of celery, a bouquet-
garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), i-J- ozs. of butter, 1 dessertspoonful
of cornflour or flour, the yolks of 2 eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream,
pepper and salt.
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HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
196
Method. — Cut off the heads of the asparagus and put them aside,
trim the stalks, cut them and the onion and celery into small pieces.
Melt the butter in a stewpan and fry asparagus, celery and onion for
15 minutes, but slowly, so as not to brown them at all. Sprinkle in the
cornflour or flour, let it cook for 2 or 3 minutes, then add the stock,
milk, bouquet-garni, salt and pepper, and cook slowly for about 40
minutes. Pass through a fine sieve, return the soup to the
stewpan, and stir until it boils. Have ready a small saucepan
of boiling water, put in a little salt and the asparagus points,
and cook for 10 or 15 minutes. Let the soup cool slightly, beat
the yolks of the eggs and the cream together, pour them into the
soup and stir until it thickens, taking care that the mixture does not
boil, or the eggs will curdle. Put the asparagus points in the tureen,
and pour in the soup.
Time. — ij to i| hours. Average Cost, 2s. gd. to 3s. 6d., exclusive of
stock. Seasonable from March to July, but in full season in May,
June and July. Sufficient for 6 persons.
Asparagus (Fr. : Asperge). — A favourite culinary vegetable belonging to a genus of plants of the
order IJliaceae. It is indigenous to Britain, and grows extensively in the southern steppes of Russia,
in Poland, and in Greece, and was used as a vegetable by the Romans. The asparagus is raised from
seed, and the young shoots of the plant only are used for the table. It possesses valuable diuretic
properties.
130.— PUREE OF ASPARAGUS. (Fr. — Puree d’As-
perges.) (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 2 pints of white second stock or water, 1 pint of milk,
50 heads of asparagus, 1 lb. of spinach, 1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of flour
2 tablespoonfuls of cream, salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut off the points of the asparagus and put them aside,
trim the stalks and cut them into small pieces ; wash and pick the
spinach. Put the stock or water into a stewpan, and when it boils add
the asparagus and spinach, and cook until tender (about 40 minutes),
then rub through a fine sieve. Have ready a small saucepan of boiling
water, put in a little salt and the asparagus points, and cook for 10 or
15 minutes. Melt the butter in the stewpan, sprinkle in the flour,
add the milk and stir until it boils, then put in the stock and puree of
asparagus and spinach, salt and pepper to taste, and simmer gently
for 10 minutes. Place the asparagus points into the tureen, add the
cream and necessary seasoning to the soup, and serve.
Time. — -i to hours. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. to 3s., exclusive of stock.
Seasonable from March to July. Sufficient for 6 persons.
RECIPES FOR PUREES
197
131.— SORREL SOUP. (Fr.— Creme d’Oseille.)
Ingredients. — of a lb. of sorrel, picked and washed, 1 small cabbage
lettuce, 3 or 4 sprigs of tarragon, a few sprigs of chervil, 1 oz. of butter,
ij pints of white stock, 1 gill of cream, a pint of Bechamel sauce
(see Sauces), yolks of 3 eggs.
Method. — Wash the sorrel and the lettuce, cut both up small, and
put in a stewpan with the butter. Cook whilst stirring for about 5
minutes, then add the stock. Let the whole simmer gently for about
+ an hour, and rub through a fine sieve. Return the puree to a clean
stewpan with the Bechamel sauce, season to taste with salt, pepper
and a grate of nutmeg, re-heat, add the tarragon and chervil cleaned
and cut into shreds, and cook for a few minutes longer. Add the
cream and the egg-yolks, previously beaten with a whisk, stir over the
fire for a few moments to cook the eggs, then serve.
Average Cost. — 2s. Sufficient for 4 persons. Seasonable in spring and
summer.
132. — SPINACH SOUP. (Fr. — Puree d’Epinards.)
Ingredients. — 1 pint of white second stock, 1 pint of milk, 2 lb. of
spinach, 1 oz. of butter, i-J- ozs. of flour, pepper and salt.
Method. — Wash the spinach, remove the stalks, and put it into a
saucepan with just sufficient water to cover the bottom of the pan
to prevent it burning. When tender, drain and rub through a
hair sieve. Melt the butter in a stewpan, sprinkle in the flour, cook
for 2 or 3 minutes, then add the puree of spinach and the stock, a little
at a time. Boil, add the milk, simmer a few minutes, season to
taste, and serve.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 9d. to is. without the stock.
Seasonable from March to December. Sufficient for 4 persons.
133. — SPRING SOUP. (Fr. Puree Printaniere
Maigre.)
Ingredients. — 1 pint of boiling water, 2 pints of milk, 2 carrots, 2
onions, 2 potatoes, 1 turnip, 2 leeks, 1 good lettuce, 1 bunch of water-
cress, 2 ozs. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, salt and pepper. (The yolks of 2
eggs and 2 tablespoonfuls of cream improve the soup.)
Method. — Cut a tablespoonful each of carrot and turnip into small
dice, or cubes, and the rest into slices ; also cut up the leeks, onions,
and potatoes, shred the lettuce finely, and cut off some of the stalks of
the watercress. Melt the butter in a stewpan, put in all the vegetables,
except the dice of carrot and turnip, cover and let them steam in the
198
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
butter for 15 or 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the boiling
water, and cook gently for 1 hour, then rub through a fine sieve. Have
the milk boiling in the stewpan, put in the puree, with any liquor re-
maining with it, and boil. Meanwhile' cook the dice of turnip and car-
rot separately in a little salt and water (allowing 25 minutes for the
carrot, and 1 5 minutes for the turnip), and strain. Mix the flour smoothly
with a little milk, add it to the soup, stir and cook for at least 5 minutes.
Add the dice of carrot and turnip, cream and eggs if used, then season to
taste, and serve.
Time. — if- to 2 hours. Average Cost, about is. without cream and
eggs. Seasonable in Spring. Sufficient for 6 persons.
134. — TRUFFLE SOUP. ( Fr . — Creme aux Truffes.)
Ingredients. — 1 quart of rich, white stock, 1 pint consomme, 1 glass
sherry or Marsala, lb. fresh truffles, 3 button onions, 1 carrot, bou-
quet garni, if oz. butter, 1 oz. flour, salt, pepper, nutmeg, 2 yolks,
it gill cream.
Method. — Wash and brush the truffles, and cut them into slices ;
put them in a basin, pour over a glass of sherry or Marsala wine,
and cover. Peel and chop the button onions, fry them a golden
brown in the butter, stir in the flour, then add the truffles, and
moisten with a quart of rich veal stock. Bring it to the boil, whilst
stirring, add a small bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), and 1
sliced carrot, and cook slowly for 30 minutes. Strain the soup, pound
the truffles in a mortar, and rub through a fine sieve. Put the truffle
puree in a stewpan with a pint of consomme, boil for 10 minutes ;
add the strained soup, and when boiling incorporate the egg-yolks
mixed with the cream. Season to taste with salt, pepper and a grate
of nutmeg. The soup is then ready for serving.
Time. — 40 minutes to 1 hour. Average Cost, 9s. Sufficient for 6 per-
sons. Seasonable in winter.
135. — TURNIP SOUP. (Fr. — Puree de Navets.)
Ingredients. — 2 pints of white second stock or water, 1 pint of milk,
4 large turnips, 2 ozs. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, nutmeg, salt, pepper and
sugar.
Method.— Peel the turnips and cut them into thin slices. Melt the
butter in a stewpan, add the turnips and let them cook very gently for
15 or 20 minutes, then put in the stock and simmer for 40 minutes or
until the turnips are tender. Rub through a hair sieve, return to the
saucepan, add the milk and boil up. Mix the flour smoothly with a
RECIPES FOR PUREES
199
little stock or milk, pour into the soup, stir and cook for 5 or 6 minutes,
then add a good pinch of sugar, nutmeg, salt and pepper to taste, and
serve.
Time. — ij- to 1 \ hours. Average Cost. 8d. to qd. without stock.
Seasonable in Winter. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
The Turnip (Fr. : Navel). — The Greeks and Romans cultivated the turnip for table use and for
feeding cattle. Nothing is known of its introduction into England, but two varieties, one annual
the other biennial, of the wild turnip are found in Britain. In the reign of Elizabeth boiled turnips
was a favourite dish. The turnip is much esteemed as a culinary vegetable ; its nutritive properties
however, are small, as water constitutes about 91 parts in 100. The leaves and flower shoots of the
turnip are often used as greens, and are called turnip tops.
136. — VEGETABLE SOUP, GREEN. {Fr. — Puree de
Legumes Verts.)
Ingredients.— 2\ pints of stock or water, \ a pint of cream or milk,
1 lb. of spinach, |- of a pint of shelled peas, i onion (sliced), a little green
mint, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), the yolks of 2 eggs,
2 ozs. of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of rice-flour or ground-rice, salt and
pepper.
Method. — Wash and pick the spinach, put it into a saucepan with a
little salt, adding a small piece of soda, if hard water is used ; cover with
cold water, bring to the boil, strain, and press as dry as possible. Melt
the butter, put in the spinach, \ a pint of the peas, the onion, mint,
herbs, and a little salt and pepper, put on the cover, and let the vege-
table steam in the butter for at least 15 minutes, stirring frequently.
Sprinkle in the rice-flour, mix it well with the vegetables, and then add
the stock or water. Simmer for 35 or 40 minutes, rub through a fine
hair sieve, and return to the saucepan. Bring to the boil, simmer for a
few minutes, then let the soup cool slightly. Have the rest of the peas
ready cooked, and add them to the soup. Beat the yolks of eggs with
the cream (or milk), add it to the soup, and stir until it thickens,
without boiling. Season to taste, and serve.
Time. — ij- to \\ hours. Average Cost, is. iod. to 2s. with cream, not
including the stock. Seasonable July to September, with tinned peas
at anytime. Sufficient for 6 persons.
137. — VEGETABLE MARROW SOUP. {Fr.— Puree
de Courge.)
Ingredients. — 2 pints of white second stock or water, 1 pint of milk,
1 large vegetable marrow, 1 onion, 2 ozs. of butter, 2 ozs. of flour, salt
and pepper.
Method. — Mince the onion finely, cut the vegetable marrow into small
pieces and remove the; seeds. Melt 1 oz. of butter in a stewpan, put
in the vegetables, put on the lid, and let the ingredients steam in the
butter for 15 or 20 minutes. Add the milk and water, and cook gently
for about 40 minutes, or until tender, then rub through a hair sieve.
200
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Melt the remaining oz. of butter, stir in the flour smoothly, add the soup,
and stir until it boils. Simmer for 5 minutes, season to taste, and serve.
Time. — ij to i-J- hours. Average Cost, 8d. to iod. without the stock.
Seasonable from August to October. Su Anient for 6 persons.
Vegetable Marrow (Fr. : Courge). — This is a species of gourd, belonging to the natural order
Cucurbitaceae , which includes the gourds, melons, cucumbers, marrows, etc. It is cultivated as a
culinary vegetable. The vegetable marrow contains a large percentage of water, it is not therefore
very nutritious, but forms a useful adjunct to flesh foods.
Fish Soups.
138.— BOUILLABAISSE. (A kind of Fish Stew.)
Ingredients. — 1 red mullet, 1 sole, 1 whiting, 1 small eel, 1 small lobster,
6 mussels, 1 quart of fish stock, ^ of a pint of salad oil, \ a gill (£ of a
pint) of claret, 3 small tomatoes, 2 small onions, 1 oz. of butter, a
bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), a clove of garlic, 2 cloves,
a pinch of spinach, saffron, cayenne, salt and pepper, a croute of bread,
parsley.
Method. — Slice the onions and fry them brown in the oil. Mix the
saffron with a little water ; mince the garlic finely ; steam the mussels
and remove them from the shells ; skin and fillet the sole, wash and
cut the other fish into pieces convenient for serving. Pour away a
little of the oil, add the stock, claret, herbs, garlic, cloves, bouquet-
garni, saffron, cayenne, salt and pepper, and bring nearly to boiling
point ; then put in all the fish and cook slowly for 20 minutes. Mean-
while trim the croute of bread to the size of the dish, fry golden-
brown in hot oil or fat, then fix it firmly in the centre of a deep dish
by means of white of egg. Cut the tomatoes across in halves, squeeze
out a little of the juice, and fry them slightly in hot butter. Arranige
the pieces of fish on and around the croute, garnish with the tomatoes
and parsley, and serve very hot with some of the liquor, well skimmed
and strained, poured round it.
Time. — Altogether, 1 hour. Average Cost, 4s. to 5s. Seasonable
at any time. Sufficient for 10 or 12 persons.
Note. — Bouillabaisse can be made of fresh-water fish, but is not so delicious
as when made with sea-fish. It is of southern origin, and ought to be a highly
seasoned dish. This soup is well-known to all readers of Thackeray by reason
of his ballad in which, when visiting Paris as an “ old fogey ” he recalls his
remembrances of younger and more jovial days.
This Bouillabaisse a noble dish is,
A sort of soup, a broth, a brew,
A hotch-potch of all sorts of fishes,
That Greenwich never could outdo.
Green herbs, red peppers, mussels, saffron,
Soles, onions, garlic, roach and dace ;
All these you eat at Terre’s tavern.
In that one dish of Bouillabaisse.
Thackeray’s Ballad of Bouillabaisse. —
RECIPES FOR FISH SOUPS
201
139. — BOUILLABAISSE. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 3 pints of fish stock, 1 Spanish onion, 2 tablespoonfuls
of salad oil, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, the yolks of 2 eggs, 2 ozs. of
creme de riz (or rice-flour), 1 glass of white wine (if liked), salt and
pepper, fillets of fried fish.
Method. — Slice the onion finely and fry until golden brown in the
salad oil. Stir in the creme de riz, add the stock, and stir until it boils ;
remove the scum as it rises, then cover, simmer gently for \ an hour,
and rub through a tammy-cloth or fine hair sieve. Return to the sauce-
pan, and bring nearly to boiling point. Beat the yolks of eggs, add
to them the cream, strain into the soup, and stir by the side of the fire
until the soup thickens slightly, but without boiling, or it may curdle.
Add the wine, and season to taste. Have ready some small fillets
of sole, turbot, cod, or other white fish, fried in a little salad oil ; place
them in the tureen and pour the soup over them. Serve with fried
croutons, and cut lemon.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, From is. 9d. to 2s. per quart.
Seasonable at any time. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
140. — CRAYFISH SOUP. (Fr. — Bisque d’Ecrevisses.)
Ingredients. — 20 to 30 crayfish, 2 boned anchovies, 4 ozs. of butter
4 ozs. of rice, 1 French dinner roll, 1 small onion, 2 cloves, 2 quarts of
fish stock, £ of a pint of milk, about \ of a pint of cream, 1 teaspoonful
of lemon-juice, salt and pepper.
Method. — Remove the gut from the centre fin of the tail of each cray-
fish. Shell the fish, and pound the shells, half the tails, and the an-
chovies, in the mortar, with the butter. Place the pounded materials
in a stewpan, stir until hot, then add the rice, previously washed
and drained, the onion and cloves. Fry for about 15 minutes, then
pour in the stock, bring to the boil, and simmer until the rice is tender.
Meanwhile soak the crumb of the French roll in the milk until soft
and add it to the soup. When the rice is sufficiently cooked rub the
soup through a tammy-cloth or fine sieve, and return it to the stew-
pan. Re-heat, season to taste, add the lemon-juice, cream, and the
remainder of the crayfish tails. Serve with croutons of fried or toasted
bread.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, 3s. Seasonable all the year.
Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.
The Crayfish or Crawfish (Fr. : Ecrevisse), or river lobster, is a long-tailed, ten-footed crustacean
resembling the lobster, and similar to it in its habits. It was considered a delicacy by the Greeks and
Romans, and was eaten by them seasoned with pepper and other condiments. Crayfish are best pre-
served alive by keeping them in baskets with fresh grass or plants such as the nettle, or in a vessel con-
taining only a slight depth of water. As the crayfish requires a quantity of air, the water should be
frequently renewed.
202
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
141. — EEL BROTH. (Fr. — Bouillon d’Anguille.)
Ingredients. — 1 medium-sized onion, 1 oz. dripping or butter, 1
skinned eel, 3 pints stock or water, 1 tablespooniul of crushed tapioca
or sago, salt, pepper, chopped parsley.
Method. — Peel and slice the onion, and fry it in hot fat till
pale-brown, but not burnt. Cut up a skinned eel, put it into the pan
containing the fried onion, add 3 pints of stock or water, boil, skim,
and simmer gently for about 1 hour. 20 minutes before serving,
strain, replace in the stewpan, sprinkle in the tapioca or sago, and
season with salt and pepper. Serve with a little chopped parsley
put in at the last moment.
Time. — 1 to ij hours. Average Cost, if made with stock, 2s. per
quart. Sufficient for 6 persons. Seasonable from September to May.
142. — EEL SOUP. (Fr.— Soupe aux Anguilles.)
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of eels, 1 onion, 2 ozs. of butter, 3 blades of mace,
1 bunch of sweet herbs, £ an oz. of peppercorns, salt to taste, 2 table-
spoonfuls of flour, ^ of a pint of cream, 2 quarts of water.
Method. — Wash the eels, cut them into small pieces, and put them in
the stewpan with the butter ; let them simmer for a few minutes, then
add the water, the onion cut in thin slices, the herbs, mace, and
seasoning. Simmer till the eels are tender, but unbroken. Dish
carefully and keep hot. Mix the flour to a batter with a little water,
stir it into the soup, and boil. Add the cream, pour over the eels and
serve.
Time. — 1 hour, or rather more. Average Cost, 2s. Seasonable from
J une to March. Sufficient for 8 persons.
143. — HADDOCK SOUP. (Fr. — Potage de Merluche.)
Ingredients. — 1 fresh haddock, 2 ozs. of butter or dripping, 1 oz. of
flour, 1 pint of stock or water, 1 pint of milk, 1 onion, seasoning.
Method. — Wipe the fish, remove the fins and eyes, and cut it into
pieces. Boil it in stock or water, and add the milk and onion (peeled
and stuck with a clove). Melt the butter or dripping, stir in the flour,
and cook for a few minutes without browning. To this add by degrees
the fish stock and fish, and let the preparation simmer for 30 minutes.
Pa.ss the soup through a sieve, return to the stewpan, season to taste
with salt, pepper and grated nutmeg. Serve with fried bread croutons.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, is. Sufficient for 5 persons.
Seasonable at all limes.
144. — LOBSTER SOUP. (Fr. — Bisque de Homard.)
Ingredients. — 1 large lobster, 1 quart of stock (preferably fish), J a
RECIPES FOR FISH SOUPS
203
pint of milk, 2 ozs. of butter, i-§- ozs. of flour, 1 carrot, turnip, 1 or
2 strips of celery, 3 or 4 shallots, or 1 small onion, a bouquet-garni'
(parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 1 teaspoonful of anchovy essence, sal-t and
pepper, small quenelles of whiting or other white fish.
Method. — Slice the vegetables and fry them in the butter until pale
brown, then stir in the flour, add the stock, and stir until it boils.
Remove the shell of the lobster, cut the meat from the claws into dice
or cubes, and set it aside until wanted. Add the bouquet-garni, the
rest of the lobster, and the pounded shell to the stock, simmer for d an
hour ; then take out the shell and rub the rest through a fine sieve.
Return to the saucepan, add the milk, and when near boiling point
put in the quenelles, anchovy-essence, and necessary seasoning. Place
the dice of lobster in the tureen, and pour in the soup.
Time. — 1|- hours. — Average Cost, 2s. 9d. to 3s. Seasonable from April
to October. Sufficient for 6 persons.
145. — OYSTER SOUP, (1 Fr. — Potage aux Huitres.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. knuckle of veal, 1 lb. of plaice, 2 ozs. of butter,
i\ ozs. of flour, \ a pint of milk, J a pint of cream, 18 oysters, 1 onion,
1 bay-leaf, 1 teaspoonful of anchovy essence, salt and pepper.
Method. — To 1 quart of cold water add the veal cut into small pieces,
the onion and bay-leaf. Simmer gently for 3 hours, then strain, and
when cold remove the fat. Fillet the plaice, remove the black skin,
and simmer the fish in 1 quart of cold water for about 1 hour, or until
it is reduced to shreds, then rub through a fine sieve. Simmer
the beards of the oysters in \ a pint of the fish stock, add the liquor
from the oysters, strain, and put aside. Mix together the veal and
fish stock, and bring to boiling point. Melt the butter in a stewpan,
stir in the flour, cook for 2 or 3 minutes, then pour in the hot stock
and stir until it boils. Now add the milk, oyster liquor, anchovy-es-
scnce, and season to taste. If the oysters are large, cut them in
halves, and put them into the boiling soup just before serving, but
they must not be allowed to cook. Stir in the cream at the last
moment.
Time. — 2 hours, after veal stock is made. Average Cost, 3s. 6d.
Seasonable from September to April. Sufficient for 10 persons.
146. — SKATE SOUP. (Fr. — Potage de Raie.)
Ingredients. — 1 skate, weighing from id to 2 lb., 1 onion sliced, 1 strip
of celery in small pieces, 1 bay-leaf, 2 ozs. of vermicelli, 2 yolks of eggs,
l: of a pint of cream, salt and pepper, 3 pints of water.
Method. — Clean the skate thoroughly, and let it hang at least a day,
and in cold weather even longer. When ready to use, remove the skin,
204
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
divide the flesh into fillets, which put aside. Put the bones and trim-
mings into a saucepan, add the water, onion, celery, bay-leaf, white
pepper or peppercorns, and a little salt, and simmer gently for i hour.
Strain, return the stock to the saucepan, bring to the boil, and add the
fillets of fish. Continue to cook slowly for io minutes, then sprinkle
in the vermicelli, and after 5 minutes further cooking, add the yolks of
eggs and cream previously well beaten together. Stir and cook gently
until the soup thickens slightly, then season to taste, and serve.
Time. — About i-} hours. Average Cost, is. 9d. to 2s. Sufficient for 6
persons. Seasonable in winter.
Miscellaneous.
147. — BAKED SOUP. (Fr. — Potage cuit ail four.)
Ingredients. — 2 quarts of cold water, 1 lb. of lean beef or mutton,
\ a pint of split peas, 1 tablespoonful of rice, 1 onion sliced, 1 carrot,
salt and pepper.
Method. — Wash the rice and peas, put them into a stew-jar with the
vegetables and the meat, cut into small pieces, season with salt and
pepper, and add the water. Cover closely, cook in a rather slow oven
for 3 or 4 hours, skim, and turn the whole into a soup tureen, and serve.
Time. — From 3 to 4 hours. Average Cost, about is. Sufficient for
8 persons. Seasonable in winter.
148. — BAKED SOUP OR COTTAGE SOUP.
(Fr. — Potage Paysanne.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of lean beef, 1 onion sliced, 1 carrot sliced, J of a
turnip sliced, 2 tomatoes sliced, 2 or 3 strips of celery shredded, 2 ozs.
of rice blanched, salt and pepper, 4 pints of cold water.
Method. — Cut the meat into small pieces, put it into a stewjar with
the prepared vegetables, water, and a good seasoning of salt and
pepper, cover closely, cook in a slow oven for 4 hours, adding the rice
about 1 hour before serving. Turn the whole into a soup tureen, or
serve in the pot in which it was cooked.
Time. — 4 hours. Average Cost, is. Sufficient for 4 persons. Seasonable
at any time, especially in winter.
149. — BAKED SOUP OR COTTAGE SOUP.
(Fr. — Potage Paysanne.) Another Method.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of lean beef, 1 onion, 1 carrot, 1 turnip, \ a head of
celer)q 2 tomatoes, 2 ozs. of boiled rice, seasoning.
Method. — Cut the meat into dice-shaped pieces, peel the onion, carrot
and turnip, clean the celery, and cut up each into slices or small pieces.
RECIPES FOR MISCELLANEOUS SOUPS
205
Slice the tomatoes. Put all the ingredients, including the rice, in
layers, into an earthenware soup-pot with 4 to 5 pints of water. Season
to taste, and cover the pan; when it boils, skim and place the pan with
the lid on in the oven. Allow it to cook in the oven for about 2
hours, or longer. Serve the soup in the soup-pot in which it is cooked.
Time. — 3 hours. Average Cost, is. 2d. Sufficient for 5-6 persons.
Seasonable at all times.
150. — BENEVOLENT SOUP.
Cheap soup, suitable for a soup kitchen.
Ingredients. — an ox-cheek, 4 celery tops, 2 large carrots, 4 large
onions, 2 large turnips, 1 cabbage, salt and pepper, a bunch of herbs,
10 quarts of cold water, 1^ pints dried peas or lentils.
Method. — Bone the ox-cheek, cut up the meat into small pieces,
put all into a large boiler, add the cold water; when it comes to the
boil skim, then throw in the vegetables, which have been cleaned and
cut in quarters, the bunch of herbs, pepper and salt. Let these ingredi-
ents simmer gently for 4 hours. Add the cabbage an hour before
serving. If peas or lentils are used soak them over night, then cook
them with the above ingredients. Season the soup again just before
serving.
Time. — 6 or 7 hours. Average Cost, 2d. per pint. Seasonable at any
time.
151. — BONE SOUP.
Ingredients. — 3 lb. of bones, cooked or uncooked, 2 carrots, 2 onions,
1 turnip, 1 strip of celery, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf),
1 2 peppercorns, 2 cloves, 2 tablespoonfuls of fine sago, crushed tapioca,
semolina, or Florador, 2 oz. of fat, salt, 5 pints of water.
Method. — Break the bones into small pieces, and fry them in the hot
fat until well browned. Put in the water and a dessertspoonful of salt,
bring to the boil and skim well. Add the prepared vegetables (cut
into thick slices), herbs, peppercorns, and cloves, and cook gently for
about 5 hours, skimming occasionally. Strain, return to the saucepan,
season to taste, and when the soup boils sprinkle in the sago, or what-
ever farinaceous substance is used, simmer for 10 minutes longer to
cook the sago, then serve.
Time. — About 6 hours. Cost, qd. to is. Seasonable at any time.
Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.
Note. — The stock for this soup could be made the day before the soup is
wanted, and the sago sprinkled in when re-heated.
152. — BRILLA SOUP.
Ingredients. — 3 quarts of cold water, 2^ lb. of shin of beef, 1 onion,
206
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
i carrot, \ of a turnip, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf),
i tablespoonful of fine sago, salt and pepper.
Method. — -Place the meat and water in an earthenware stewing-jar,
add a little salt, cook gently on the stove, or in a moderate oven, for
4 hours, then strain off the liquor. When cold, remove the fat from the
surface, and boil up the stock. Meanwhile cut the vegetables into small
dice, add them to the stock when boiling, put in the bouquet-garni,
and simmer gently until the vegetables are tender, io minutes before
serving sprinkle in the sago, and stir occasionally to prevent it sinking
to the bottom of the pan. When ready, season to taste, and serve.
Time. — About \ an hour, after the stock is made. Average Cost,
is. 6d. to is. 8d. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable at any time.
153. _COW-HEEL soup.
Ingredients. — 1 cow-heel, 3 pints of water, 1 onion, 1 carrot, 1 strip of
celery, 1 tablespoonful of sago or crushed tapioca, chopped parsley,
lemon juice, salt, pepper, grated nutmeg.
Method. — Clean and scald one cow-heel, divide into 4 parts, and
put them in a stewpan with the cold water. Add a good pinch of
salt, boil up, skim, and add soup, vegetables (onion, carrot and celery).
Let these simmer gently for 3 hours or longer, then strain and sea-
son. Remove some of the meat from the bones and cut it into very
small pieces ; put these with the broth, let it boil, and stir in a table-
spoonful of sago or crushed tapioca. Boil for another 25 minutes, then
serve, adding a little chopped parsley and lemon-juice just before
sending it to table. This soup, when well made, is considered very
delicious as well as nourishing.
Time. — 3 to 4 hours. Average Cost, is. qd. Sufficient for 4 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
154. — SOUR CHERRY SOUP. (Fr. — Soupe aux
Cerises.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of sour cooking cherries (stoned), 3 or 4 Invicbachs
(rusks), 3 pints of water, 2 inches of cinnamon, lemon-rind, J of a lb-
of loaf sugar, J of a pint of white or red wine, 1 oz. of butter, } an oz. of
flour, a pinch of salt.
Method. — Put the stoned cherries in a stewpan. Break the cherry
stones and remove the kernels, add them to the cherries, put in the
water and the broken pieces of rusks, cinnamon and lemon rind. Cook
slowly for 20 minutes, then rub all through a sieve. Melt the butter
in another stewpan, add flour, and fry a chestnut-brown colour.
Moisten with the wine and a little water. Add the cherry pulp, etc.,
sugar, and a small pinch of salt. Boil again, and serve hot or cold.
Time. — 40 minutes. Average Cost, is. Sufficient for 6 persons.
Seasonable in June and July.
GRAVIES, SAUCES AND
FORCEMEATS.
CHAPTER IX.
General observations on Gravies and Sauces, with
directions in regard to the foundation or
standard Sauces, &c.
Sauces and Gravies. — Until the end of the eighteenth century cookery
was a neglected art in England, and sauces were practically unknown.
A celebrated Frenchman who lived in that age humorously described
us as “ a nation with one sauce.” History has not recorded the name
of that particular sauce ; but it could not have been the ancient sauce
of the Romans, which tradition has handed down to us under the name
of “ Garum.” This sauce is made from anchovy brine, and is largely
used by the Turks in the preparation of their national dish, “ Pilau,”
but the presence of the strong flavour of anchovy, however desirable
in itself, would prevent its use in many dishes. Possibly “ melted
butter ” filled the double office of “ sweet ” and “ savoury ” ; and it
would be difficult in the present day to find any individual who passes
muster as a plain cook, whose knowledge of sauces is as restricted as
that of the nation a hundred years ago. The unit must now be multi-
plied by something like 650 to arrive at an approximate estimate
of the sauces and gravies in use at the present day.
Importance of Sauces. — Brillat-Savarin, speaking of this branch of
cookery, says : “ One can learn to cook, and one can be taught to roast,
but a good sauce-maker is a genius born, not made.” Alexis Soyer,
referring to this subject, writes : “ Sauces are to cookery what
grammar is to language ” — a most apt comparison, for grammars have
been adapted in a hundred different ways to suit the genius of the lan-
guages they dominate. And so with sauces ; they form an essential
part of cookery, yet the innumerable variations of each class have
to be skilfully adapted to the dishes with which they are amalgamated
or served, in order to give some necessary flavouring or produce some
desired effect. Every cook should endeavour to attain proficiency
in this branch of cookery, a task by no means so difficult as the number
of sauces would lead us to suppose, for, if the few which have for their
base either oil. wine or fruit, are excluded, the remainder are simply
variations of the two foundation sauces, white and brown.
207
208
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Use of Sauces and Gravies. — Each sauce must possess a distinct flavour
and character of its own, and add either richness, piquancy, or flavour
without losing its own identity ; but unless purposely employed to
disguise the absence of flavour in some insipid substance, they should
never be allowed to overpower the natural flavour of dishes of game,
poultry, meat, etc., with which they are served. The excellence of many
entrees depends almost entirely on the sauces which enter largely into their
composition. Boiled fish would be insipid without an appropriately
flavoured sauce. Some dishes of boiled meat, and many simple pud-
dings are almost unpalatable without their customary sauces ; while a
good gravy is indispensable with meat, poultry, and game.
Difference between Sauces and Gravies. — Gravy is simply the juices of
meat, diluted and seasoned but not thickened, except the slightly-
thickened brown gravy, which ought really to rank as a thin sauce.
Sauce. — Sauce has been defined as a liquid seasoning, thickened by
means of one of the? following liaisons (or mixtures of yolk of eggs,
cream, etc., used for thickening or binding white soups and sauces) : —
1. Roux — white.
2. ,, fawn.
3. ,, brown.
4. Eggs and cream.
5. Butter and cream.
6. Blended butter and flour.
7. Blood.
8. Arrowroot, cornflour, Fecule.
Roux. — The literal translation of this word is “ russet,” but in a
culinary sense it is a mixture of equal quantities of butter and flour
cooked over a slow fire, or in a cool oven, until the desired colour is
acquired. There are three varieties of roux : white, fawn, and brown ;
and this form of thickening is generally employed in making good sauces.
It may be made in small quantities as required, or in larger quantities,
which, if closely covered, will keep good for months. When roux is
made for immediate use it should be allowed to cool slightly before
adding the liquid to it. When using perfectly cold roux, the liquid
should be added to it more gradually : in both cases the sauce must be
constantly stirred until it boils, and then allowed to simmer until it at-
tains the required consistency. A heaped-up tablespoonful of roux
will thicken 1 pint of liquid. Directions for the preparation of the re-
spective liaisons (sauce thickenings) will be found in the following pages.
THE BASES OR FOUNDATIONS OF SAUCES.
The following liquids form the bases of most of the sauces : —
1. White Stock.— Nearly all the good white savoury sauces have
for their foundation white stock and milk, used in varying proportions.
PRESERVED FOODS : PICKLES, STORE SAUCES, ETC,
i. Oxtail Soup, Gravy Soup, Turtle Soup, Julienne Soup, Hare Soup, Truffles, Heinz's Sauce,
Cocks’ Combs, Mixed Pickles, Walnuts, Girkins, Financiere. 2. Malt Vinegar, Madras Chutney,
Harvey's Sauce, Lucca Oil, French YVine Vinegar, Worcestershire Sauce, Co man's Mustard,
Worcestershire Sauce, Mustard, Mushroom Catsup, Keen’s Mustard, Bloater Paste, Essence of
Anchovies, Anchovy Paste.
42
n n
GRAVIES, SAUCES AND FORCEMEATS
209
2. Brown Stock. — All good brown savoury sauces are made from stock,
more or less rich according to the purpose for which they are intended.
3. Fish Stock. — Fish sauces usually have for their foundation about
equal quantities of fish stock and milk.
4. Milk. — Milk forms the basis of nearly all the plain white sauces,
both sweet and savoury, also of bread sauce.
5. Water. — Strictly speaking, all melted butter sauces should be
made only with water ; a little of the broth in which fish or meat has been
boiled is admissible, and is also an improvement to caper sauce ; but
when milk is added to the broth, as is frequently the case, to improve
the colour, the foundation becomes white sauce, not melted butter.
6. Oil. — Mayonnaise sauce, and others of a similar character known
as salad sauce, are composed almost entirely of oil as their basis.
7. Fruit. — Apple, cranberry, gooseberry, etc.
VARIETIES OF SAUCES.
Sauces may be broadly divided into two classes, white and brown ;
each class being further subdivided into sauces made by a long, slow
process, and quickly-made sauces.
FOUNDATION OF STANDARD SAUCES.
(a) White. — Bechamel forms the foundation of all the good white sauces ;
it is made by the slow process, which extracts the full flavour of the
substances employed.
(b) Plain White Sauce. — Nearly all the white sauces employed in
middle-class cookery have for their foundation a plain white sauce
made by the quick process. Their flavour depends mainly on the sub-
stances added to them, such as parsley, celery, chocolate, vanilla,
orange-essence, etc.
(a) Brown. — Espagnole. — This sauce and the Bechamel have been aptly
described as “ Adam ” and “ Eve.” France adds to them the Veloutee
and Allemande, and calls the group the “ sauces meres,” or “ mother
sauces.” The Espagnole forms the basis of all good brown sauces,
and these, like the white sauces, derive their distinctive names from
the substances added to the foundation sauce. The rich exquisite
characteristic flavour of Espagnole sauce is due partly to the lean bacon
or ham which forms an indispensable part of it, and partly to the long,
slow frying process to which the flour and other ingredients are sub-
jected.
(b) Plain Brown Sauces. — These sauces are always less quickly made
than the plain white sauces, for no matter how simple they may be,
210
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
the flour must be fried brown before adding the liquid. A little caramel
may be introduced to improve the colour, but it imparts nothing to
the flavour, whereas Eying develops the full flavour of both the flour
and vegetables used in making brown sauces.
STOCK FOR GRAVY.
Gravy, pure and simple, is usually described as “ the juices of the
meat ” ; and it has been said that good gravy is an evidence of bad
roasting or baking. But experience teaches us that the best gravy
accompanies a joint which has been roasted before an open fire and well
basted during the process, as is the custom in the north of England. Not-
withstanding the argument that if the juices of the meat are in the gravy
the joint must suffer, the north-country meat, when cut, is found to be full
of gravy. Long before science had discovered the coagulating pro-
perties of albumin, it was the custom to put plenty of dripping into
the tin before the fire, and as soon as it was hot the joint was hung on
the “ jack ” and well basted. Without knowing the “ why and where-
fore,” the most ignorant housewife would have explained that this
method kept the gravy in. As the meat cooked before the clear
bright fire it became crisp and brown ; and each time it was basted
some of the brown particles on the surface of the joint were carried
down into the dripping and settled on the bottom of the tin, to be
afterwards converted into gravy. From the above facts, we draw the
conclusion that a browned surface and frequent basting produce good
gravy. Meat baked in the oven has not quite the same flavour and
nourishment as when roasted, but a juicy joint and good gravy are
possibilities under the following conditions : the joint must be well
basted with melted dripping or other fat before being put into the oven ;
the oven must be kept fairly hot until the meat is well browned all over ;
in the later stages of cooking the oven door should not be entirely
closed, for meat cannot become crisp and brown in an oven full of
steam ; the joint must be frequently basted. Gravy in its most simple
form is made by adding boiling water to the sediment which remains
in the meat tin when the fat has been carefully poured off. It should
be seasoned to taste, boiled up, stirring meanwhile to loosen the brown
particles which adhere to the sides of the tin, well skimmed, and
strained over or round the meat. Any bones that have been removed
from the meat may be boiled to form the basis of the gravy, but
nothing else must be introduced. Beef gravy must contain only salt
and pepper ; and mutton gravy the same ingredients, and a few
drops of caramel when the gravy is very light in colour. Veal gravy,
also, should be made from the bones, and after being mixed with that
in the meat tin, should be slightly thickened with flour and butter
kneaded together, or flour mixed smoothly with a little wrater.
Gravies served with game, roast rabbits, etc., may be made from beef,
GRAVIES, SAUCES AND FORCEMEATS
2X1
beef or game bones, or from stock. Clear stock must be used for clear
gravies, but with this exception, any good second stock will serve.
An economical cook will always contrive to provide the basis of
gravies, sauces, and soups out of the bones and trimmings of poultry
and meat, except, of course, the clear soups and gravies, which must
have a good clear stock for their foundation.
STOCK FOR SAUCES.
Bechamel, Veloutee, Allemande, and sauces of a similar character,
must have for their foundation white stock made from chicken or veal,
or the bones and trimmings of the same. The stock for Espagnole
sauce, and those sauces of which it forms the basis, may be made from
any kind of meat, trimmings, bones, livers, and gizzards of game and
poultry ; it must be rich, of good colour, but not necessarily very clear.
The second stock (No. 7,) well reduced, would be suitable for this
purpose.
Note. — If the stock is poor it can be enriched by the addition of a small quantity of
"Lemco” Meat Extract.
CONSISTENCY OF SAUCES.
The consistency of a sauce varies according to its use. For a coating
sauce, that is, a sauce thick enough to mask a chicken, cutlets, etc., over
which it is poured, the proportions are i-t- ozs. of flour to 1 pint of liquid,
when made by the slow process, during which the sauce becomes con-
siderably reduced, but when made by the quick process nearly 2 ozs.
of flour must be allowed to 1 pint of liquid. Sauces to be served
separately in a sauceboat or poured round the base of a dish, should be
made a little thinner, but it is always better to err on the side of over-
thickening, it being much easier to reduce the consistent by adding a
little more stock or milk, than to increase the consistency by reducing the
quantity. The latter can only be done by boiling the liquid rapidly in
an uncovered pan, which is not always convenient at the time of
serving dinner. Reducing by rapid boiling is a method which may be
usefully employed in dealing with stock too poor to make a suitable
foundation for a good soup or sauce. As the stock is reduced by
evaporation, its flavour and richness become concentrated, and if
frequently skimmed it gains considerably in brightness and colour.
TIME REQUIRED FOR COOKING.
Sauces made by the slow process are allowed to simmer for 2
or 3 hours, or until all the unabsorbed fat comes to the surface.
Frequent stirring is necessary, also occasional skimming to remove
the fat as it rises. The ordinary, or quickly-made sauces, should not
have the liquid added until the flour and butter have been cooked
together for 3 or 4 minutes, or, when flour kneaded with butter
is used, or flour moistened with milk or stock is used, the liquid
to which they are added should be allowed to simmer for at .least
212
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
5 minutes after coming to the boil, otherwise the sauce has an un-
pleasant taste of raw flour.
Sometimes sauces made by the long process are over-cooked and
become oily. In this case a little cold stock, milk or water, can be
added, and the sauce stirred until it boils, when it will again become
smooth, but it must then immediately be removed from the fire.
PREPARATIONS OF INGREDIENTS.
To avoid repetition, the vegetables used in the following recipes
are spoken of as “ prepared,” meaning that the carrots have been
scraped, the turnips peeled, and the onions peeled.
A bouquet-garni consists of a sprig or two of parsley, a bay-leaf, a
sprig of thyme, a sprig of marjoram, a sprig of basil, and a blade of
mace, all tied together in a little bouquet. Any of these herbs may
be omitted and others substituted, according to taste.
As regards the quantities given in the recipes, they have been kept
as uniform as possible ; and in most cases provide sufficient sauce to
fill a sauce- tureen, or for pouring round an entree or pudding.
THICKENINGS FOR SAUCES.
White Roux. — In making white roux, equal quantities of butter and
flour are stirred in a stewpan over a slow fire for io or 15 minutes,
but without allowing the roux to take any colour. If for immediate
use, the roux must cool slightly before adding the liquid.
Fawn Roux. — For fawn or blonde roux, take equal quantities of
butter and flour, and cook slowly over the fire or in a cool oven until
the mixture acquires a pale fawn colour.
Brown Roux. — This third variety is usually called “ stock roux,”
because where roux is being constantly used a large quantity of it is
made and kept in stock. The proportion of butter and flour are the
same as for white and fawn roux. The nut-brown colour is obtained
by along, slow process of frying or roasting, during which much of the
flavour characteristic of well-made brown sauce is developed.
Egg Liaison. — This thickening is composed of yolks of eggs beaten up
with a small quantity of cream, milk, or white stock. The sauce to
which this liaison (or thickening) is added must require no further
cooking. One to two tablespoonfuls of hot sauce should be mixed
with the eggs and cream, and the whole then strained into the sauce,
which should be just below boiling point. To remove the raw taste
of the eggs, it is necessary to cook and stir the sauce by the side of the
fire for a few minutes, but it must not be allowed to boil, or the eggs
may curdle.
Butter and Cream Liaison. — When butter and cream are employed for
GRAVIES, SAUCES AND FORCEMEATS
213
thickening, they are added in equal proportions to the sauce just
before serving : re-heating would spoil the flavour of the sauce.
Kneaded Butter Liaison. — This form of liaison is exceedingly useful
when no roux is at hand, and a little additional thickening is required.
Butter will absorb about its own weight in flour, and the two are
kneaded together on a plate until all the flour is absorbed, or, in other
words, thoroughly moistened by the butter. This liaison should be
added to the sauce in small portions and stirred until it is smoothly
mixed with it.
Blood Liaison. — This liaison is used principally to thicken sauces for
game and poultry entrees. The blood of poultry or game should be
mixed with a little vinegar, to prevent coagulation. It should be
strained and added gradually to the sauce a few minutes before
serving.
Arrowroot, Cornflour, Fecule Liaison. — Before adding any of these
substances to the sauce, they must be smoothly mixed with a little cold
stock, milk, or water. The liaison is stirred into the boiling sauce,
and simmered for not less than 2 minutes to cook the starch.
RECIPES FOR
GRAVIES, SAUCES AND
FORCEMEATS.
CHAPTER X.
Auxiliaries for Sauces, Compound Butters, Gravies, etc.,
White Sauces (hot and cold) and Salad Dress-
ings, Brown, Fish, Fruit, Sweet and Miscellaneous
Sauces, Forcemeats, etc.
Auxiliaries for Sauces.
155. — CARAMEL FOR COLOURING SAUCES.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of castor or moist sugar, 3 gills of water.
Method. — Put the sugar and a good tablespoonful of water into an
untinned stewpan, and stir over the fire until it becomes dark-brown.
Boil it, add the rest of the water to the sugar, stir until it boils, simmer
until the caramel acquires the consistency of syrup, and, when cold,
bottle for use. It may be used for sweet or savoury sauces.
Time. — About 40 minutes.
156. — CARAMEL FOR COLOURING SAUCES.
(Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls of salt, f of a pint of
boiling water.
Method. — -Put the salt and sugar into an iron saucepan or frying pan,
and stir and cook until dark-brown, add the water, boil well, and, when
cold, bottle for use.
Time. — About 30 minutes.
157— CHILI VINEGAR.
Ingredients. — 50 fresh red English chilies, 1 pint of vinegar.
Method. — Pound the chilies or cut them in half, and infuse them in
the vinegar for a fortnight, when it will be fit for use. This will be
found an agreeable relish to fish, as many people prefer to eat it with
the addition of an acid and cayenne pepper.
214
RECIPES FOR COMPOUND BUTTERS
215
Compound Butters.
Chiefly used for the enrichment of sauces.
158. — CRAYFISH OR SHRIMP BUTTER. (Fr. —
Beurre d’Ecrevisses.)
Method. — Pound •§- a pint of picked shrimps or prawns in a mortar
till smooth, add 3 ozs. of fresh butter, \ an oz. of anchovy paste ; mix
thoroughly, and rub through a fine sieve. Keep on the ice till wanted.
A little liquid carmine or cochineal may be added to improve colour,
if found necessary.
159. — DEVILLED BUTTER. (Fr.— Baurre a la Diable.)
Method. — Mix 1 oz. of butter with white pepper, cayenne, and curry-
paste, about a saltspoonful of each, and blend thoroughly with a few
drops of lemon-juice.
160. — LOBSTER BUTTER. (Fr.— Beurre de Homard.)
Method. — Procure the eggs (spawn) and coral of a lobster, pound
till smooth in a mortar with double its weight of fresh butter, rub
through a fine sieve, and keep in a cool place till required.
161. — MONTPELLIER BUTTER. (Fr.— Beurre Mont-
pellier.)
Ingredients. — 2 ozs. each of parsley, chervil, tarragon, chives and cress;
2 anchovies, 9 yolks of hard-boiled eggs, 3 ozs. of butter, 1 teaspoonful
of capers, 1 gherkin.
Method. — Wash and pick the parsley, cress and herbs, blanch for
3 minutes, strain and cool. Dry well in a cloth, and pound in a
mortar. Wipe and bone the anchovies, pound them in a mortar with
the egg-yolks, capers, and gherkins until smooth, then add the butter
and lastly the. green puree. Pass through a wire sieve, and use as
required. A little spinach may be added if the herbs should not colour
the butter sufficiently.
162. — RAVIGOTE OR GREEN BUTTER. (Fr.—
Beurre Ravigote.)
Ingredients. — \\ ozs. of chervil, 2 ozs. of spinach, 1+ ozs. of green
chives, 1 oz. of tarragon, \ an oz. of parsley, 3 shallots, 6 ozs. of butter,
salt and pepper.
Method. — Put the chervil, spinach, chives, tarragon and parsley into
a saucepan with water, blanch and drain well, then pound these ingredi-
ents in a mortar. Peel and chop the shallots finely, cook them in a
little butter until golden-brown, and mix them with the herbs. When
216
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
cold, work in the remainder of the butter, pass through a fine sieve,
and add a little pepper and salt and spinach-greening, if necessary.
Time. — 30 minutes. Average Cost, 8d.
] Spinach (Fr. Epinards ) is cultivated for its young leaves, which are prepared for the table by
, boiling or frying. Two principal varieties of spinach are cultivated, prickly spinach with triangular
and arrow-shaped leaves ; and smooth spinach, the leaves of which are round and blunt. Flanders
spinach is also grown for the market. It is a wholesome vegetable, and one of its constituents
being iron, spinach is beneficial to persons who suffer from anaemia.
Gravies.
163. — BEEF GRAVY FOR POULTRY, GAME, Etc.
Ingredients. — 1 pint of cold water, \ a lb. of lean beef, 1 small onion,
salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the beef into small pieces, put it with the onion and
the water into a stewpan, or earthenware stewjar, and cook slowly for
3 or 4 hours. Strain, season, and use as required.
Time. — -3 to 4 hours. Average Cost, 6d. Quantity, about J pint.
164. — BROWN GRAVY. (Fr.— Jus brun.)
Ingredients. — 1 quart of water, 1 lb. of neck or shin of beef, 1 oz. of
butter, 1 oz. of sweet dripping, \ oz. of flour, 1 medium-sized onion,
1 small slice of lean bacon, or a few trimmings of lean ham or bacon,
salt and pepper, 1 clove, if liked.
Method. — Cut the meat and bacon into small pieces, slice the onion.
Melt the dripping in a stewpan, put in the meat, bacon, and onion, and
fry till brown. Add the water, salt and pepper, and clove, cook slowly
for 3 or 4 hours, and strain. Melt the butter in a stewpan, stir in the
flour, and cook for 5 minutes. Add the gravy, stir until it boils,
skim, simmer for 10 minutes, and use as required.
Time. — 3J to \\ hours. Average Cost, about iod. Quantity, 1 pint.
Cloves (Fr. Clou de girofle). — An Agveeable pungent aromatic spice, obtained from the dried flower-
buds of the Caryophyllus aromalicus, a handsome branching tree with purplish flowers, allied to the
myrtle. The name is derived from the Latin, clavus , and French, clou , “ a nail,” to which the clove
is supposed to bear a resemblance. The clove is a native of the Molucca Islands, but is successfully
cultivated in Jamaica, Sumatra, Mauritius, Cayenne, Malacca, Trinidad, and other places. The
Ambovna, or royal clove, is said to be the best, and is obtained from the island of that name, colonized
by the Dutch. The clove contains about 20 per cent, of volatile oil, which abounds in every part of
the plant, occasioning its peculiar pungent flavour ; the rest is composed of woody fibre, water,
gum, and resin. Cloves are used medicinally, but are chiefly employed for culinary purposes.
165. — BROWN GRAVY FOR ROAST RABBIT.
(Economical.)
Ingredients. — i pint of water, i oz. of beef dripping, i oz. of butter,
\ an oz. of flour, the liver of the rabbit, i medium-sized onion, \ a
carrot, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), salt and pepper.
RECIPES FOR GRAVIES
217
Method. — Slice the vegetables, cut the liver into small pieces. Melt
the dripping in a stewpan, fry the vegetables and liver to a nice brown,
then add the water, bouquet-garni, salt and pepper, and cook slowly
for 1 hour. Strain and return to the saucepan, knead the flour and
butter well together on a plate, add it, in small portions, to the gravy,
stir and cook for ten minutes. Season to taste, add a few drops of
caramel to improve the colour, and serve.
Time. — to ij- hours. Average Cost, 2+d. Quantity, about f pint.
166. — GRAVY (Quickly made). (Fr. — Jus de Viande.)
Ingredients. — f- of a pint of water, £ a lb. of shin of beef, an oz. of
butter, \ an onion, of a carrot, salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the meat and vegetables into small pieces and fry
them brown in the butter. Add the water, salt and pepper, and simmer
for \ an hour. Strain, season, and serve. The meat and vegetables
should afterwards be put into the stock-pot, or with more water
added to them may be cooked until all their goodness is extracted.
Time. — From 40 to 45 minutes. Average Cost, about 5d. Quantity,
about a pint.
167. — GRAVY FOR GAME. (Fr.— Jus de Gibier.)
Ingredients. — Bones and trimmings of game, sufficient cold water to
cover them, a bay-leaf, 1 clove, 6 peppercorns, a sprig of thyme, a
small piece of onion, 1 oz of butter (or less if making a small quantity).
Method. — Cut up the trimmings and break the bones into small
pieces. Melt the butter, add the bones and meat, and the rest of the
ingredients, cover with water, simmer for 3 hours, then strain, season,
and use as required.
Time. — 3J hours. Average Cost, dd. without the bones and trim-
mings.
168. — GRAVY FOR HASHES, Etc.
Ingredients. — Bones and trimmings of the joint to be hashed, sufficient
water to cover the bones, 1 small onion, 1 strip of celery, a small
carrot, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), salt and pepper.
Measure the gravy when made, and to each pint allow oz. of butter,
and a dessertspoonful of flour.
Method. — Break the bones into small pieces and slice the vegetables.
Put them into a saucepan, add the trimmings of the meat, water,
bouquet-garni, salt and pepper, simmer for 2 hours, then strain.
Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the flour, and fry brown. Put in the
gravy, stir until it boils, season to taste, and use as required. A little
ketchup, Harvey, or other sauce may be added if liked.
Time. — About 2\ hours. Average Cost, ild. per pint, exclusive of
bones and trimmings.
218
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
169. — GRAVY FOR ROAST FOWL. (Economical.)
Ingredients. — The necks, feet, livers and gizzards of the fowls, sufficient
water to cover them, a slice of bacon, or the trimmings of ham or bacon,
1 very small onion, a bouquet garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), salt
and pepper.
Method. — Wash the gizzards, livers and necks, scald and skin the
feet, cut the whole into small pieces. Place them all together in a stew-
pan, add the bacon, cut small, bouquct-garni, onion and seasoning,
cover with water, and cook gently for 2 hours. Strain, and season to
taste. When the fowls are roasted, strain off the fat, pour the gravy
into the tin, mix well with the gravy from the fowls, boil, and serve.
Time. — From 2\ to 3 hours. Average Cost, Dd.
170. — GRAVY FOR ROAST HARE, Etc.
Ingredients. — 1 quart of water, \ a lb. of skirt of beef,| a lb. of milt
(ox spleen), 1 oz. of butter, x oz. of flour, 1 onion, 2 cloves, salt and
pepper.
Method. — Cut the meat and milt into small pieces, put them into a
slewpan, or earthenware stewjar, add the water, onion, cloves, salt
and pepper, and cook gently for 3 or 4 houi's, then strain. Melt the
butter in a stewpan, stir in the flour and brown it, add the gravy,
stir until it boils, season to taste, and serve.
Time. — 4 to 5 hours. Average Cost, about 6d. Quantity, about 1 pint.
171. — GRAVY WITHOUT MEAT.
Ingredients. — \ an onion, 1 small carrot, \ oz of dripping, I- a pint
of water, 1 teaspoonful of Marmite, Odin, or any other kind of vege-
table extract.
Method. — Cut up the onion and carrot into slices; fry both in the
dripping. When nicely browned add the water, and Marmite or Odin
extract. Boil up, season with salt and pepper, and cook for 10 minutes.
Skim well and strain.
Time.— 25 minutes. Average Cost, 4d. Quantity, a pint.
172. — JUGGED GRAVY. (Excellent.)
Ingredients.— 3 pints of water, 2 lb. of shin of beef, lb. of lean
ham, 1 small carrot, 1 strip of celery, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme,
bay-leaf), a blade of mace, 6 peppercorns, 1 clove, salt.
Method.— Cut the ham and beef into small pieces, and slice the vege-
tables. Put them into a stewing jar in alternate layers, sprinkle each layer
with salt, add the peppercorns, mace, bouquet-garni, and water, cover
WHITE SAUCES AND SALAD DRESSINGS
219
closely, and tie 3 or 4 folds of well-greased paper on the top to keep
in the steam. Place the jar in a rather cool oven, and cook gently for
6 hours, then strain, and when cold remove the fat. Re-heat, and serve
with any dish that requires good gravy.
Time. —About 6£ hours. Average Cost, is. 6d. to is. 8d. Quantity,
about 1 quart.
173.— VENISON GRAVY.
Ingredients. — 1 small jar of red-currant jelly, 1 glass of port.
Method. — Heat the above ingredients in a stewpan to near boiling
point, and serve separately in a tureen.
Time. — 5 minutes. Average Cost, iod. Quantity, less than C a pint.
White Sauces (hot and cold)
and Salad Dressings.
174— ALLEMANDE SAUCE. {Fr.~ Sauce Allemande.)
(For Meat and Fish.)
Ingredients. — J of a pint of white stock, 1 \ ozs. of butter, 1 oz. of flour,
the yolks of 2 eggs, 1 tablespoonful of cream, 1 teaspooniul of lemon-
juice, nutmeg, salt and pepper.
Method. — Melt 1 oz. of butter in a saucepan, add the flour, stir and
cook for a few minutes without browning, then put in the stock and
bring to the boil, stirring meanwhile. Let it simmer gently for a an
hour, take it off the stove, add the yolks of the eggs and cream pre-
viously mixed together, a pinch of nutmeg, and season to taste.
Continue to stir and cook slowly without boiling for a few minutes
longer, then add the lemon-juice, and the remainder of the butter
bit by bit, s irring the ingredients well between each addition. Pass
through a fine strainer or tammy cloth, re-heat, and use.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, is. 3d. Quantity, 1 pint.
175.— ASPARAGUS SAUCE. (Fr.~ Sauce Asperges.)
Ingredients.— 25 green asparagus, \ a pint of white sauce (see page
221), £- of an oz. of butter, -J- a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, spinach or a
little spinach-greening, salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut off the green ends of the asparagus, boil them in salt
and water for 10 minutes, and drain well. Melt the butter in a sauce-
220
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
pan, fry the asparagus for 8 minutes, add the sauce, and a sea-
soning of salt and pepper and a little spinach greening if a deep tint
is desired. Simmer gently for 15 minutes, then pass through a fine
strainer or tammy cloth; re-heat, add the lemon-juice, and use as required.
Time. — From 40 1045 minutes. Average Cost, is. 3d. to is. 6d. Quan-
tity, \ a pint.
176. — BEARNAISE SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Bearnaise.)
Ingredients. — 2 shallots, peeled and chopped finely, a few fresh tarragon
leaves, 1 gill of French wine vinegar, 3 yolks of eggs, \ a teaspoonful of
Mignonette pepper, a little salt, ■§• a gill of Bechamel sauce, 3 ozs. of
butter, \ a teaspoonful of chopped parsley and tarragon leaves.
Method. — Put the vinegar, shallots, and whole tarragon leaves in a
stewpan, cover it, and let the liquor reduce to about one-eighth of the
original quantity. Remove from the fire, cool a little, add the sauce
and re-heat, then stir in the yolks of the eggs, and season with salt and
Mignonette pepper. Whisk the whole over the fire, and incorporate
the butter by degrees. This sauce must on no account be allowed to
boil when once the eggs are added. Pass it through a tammy-cloth.
Return to another stewpan, and whisk again over hot water or in a
bain-marie. Add the chopped parsley and a few chopped tarragon
leaves, and serve as directed.
Time. — 35 to 45 minutes. Average Cost, iod. Quantity, \ a pint.
177. — BECHAMEL, or FRENCH WHITE SAUCE.
(Fr. — Sauce Bechamel.)
Ingredients. — i-J- ozs. of flour, 2 ozs. of butter (or of corresponding
quantity of white roux), i£ pints of milk (or white stock), 1 small onion
or shallot, 1 small bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 10 pepper-
corns, \ a bay-leaf, 1 small blade of mace, seasoning.
Method. — Put the milk on to boil with the onion or shallot, the
bouquet-garni, peppercorns, mace, and bay-leaf. Melt the butter,
stir in the flour, and cook a little without browning, stir in the hot milk,
etc., whisk over the fire until it boils, and let it simmer from 15 to 20
minutes. Strain and pass through a sieve or tammy-cloth, return to
the stewpan, season lightly with a pinch of nutmeg, \ a pinch of
cayenne, and J a teaspoonful of salt. The sauce is then ready for use.
Time.— 40 to 50 minutes. Average Cost, 7d. with milk. Sufficient for
1 boiled fowl.
Mace (Fr. flair ac muscadc). — The dried aril or fleshy net-like membrane which surrounds the shell
of the nutmeg, which when ripe is of a bright scarlet colour. Its general properties are the same as
those of the nutmeg, and it possesses an extremely aromatic and fragrant odour, and a hot and acrid
taste. Mace is prepared by separating it from the nut when gathered, and curing it by pressure and
exposure to the sun. It is largely used as a condiment.
WHITE SAUCES AND SALAD DRESSINGS
221
178. — BECHAMEL, or FRENCH WHITE SAUCE.
(Fr.— Sauce Bechamel.) (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 1^ ozs. of flour, 2 ozs. of butter, 1^ pints of equal parts
of milk and white stock, 1 small onion or shallot, 1 bouquet-garn
(parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 10 peppercorns, % a bay-leaf, 1 small
blade of mace, seasoning.
Method. — Put the milk and stock in the saucepan with the vegetables
and seasoning, and let it come to the boil. Melt the butter in another
saucepan, add the flour and cook it, without browning, pour in the hot
milk, whisk until it boils, and simmer for about 20 minutes. Strain the
sauce through a tammy-cloth, or fine strainer, warm up, and use as
required.
Time. — 40 to 50 minutes. Average Cost, 8d. per pint. Sufficient for 2
boiled fowls.
179. — BECHAMEL SAUCE WITHOUT STOCK. (Fr.—
Sauce Bechamel maigre.)
Ingredients. — 1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, 1 pint of milk, 1 small
onion stuck with a clove, a few parsley leaves tied in a bunch, \ a bay-
leaf, 1 small blade of mace, seasoning.
Mode. — Boil the milk with the vegetable and seasoning for \ an
hour. Melt the butter in another saucepan, stir in the flour, and cook
for a few minutes without allowing it to brown, add the milk gra-
dually, stir until it boils, simmer for about 20 minutes. Strain the
sauce, use as required, adding seasoning to taste.
Time. — 40 to 50 minutes. Average Cost, 4d. per pint. Sufficient for
one boiled fowl, about one pint.
180. — BREAD SAUCE. (Fr.-— Sauce au Pain.)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of milk, 1 tablespoonful of cream, 2 ozs. of
freshly made breadcrumbs, £ of an oz. of butter, 1 very small peeled
onion, 1 clove, salt and pepper.
Method. — Put the milk and onion, with the clove stuck in it, into a
small saucepan and bring to the boil. Add the breadcrumbs, and
simmer gently for 20 minutes, then remove the onion, add salt and
pepper to taste, stir in the butter and cream, and serve.
Time. — 20 to 25 minutes. Average Cost, about 3d. Quantity, \ a pint.
Note. — The cream may be omitted, and, if preferred, a little more butter
added. Flavouring is simply a matter of taste (when cloves are not liked,
mace or nutmeg may be substituted).
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HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
181. — BLONDE SAUCE. (Fr. Sauce Blonde.)
Ingredients. — \ of a pint of white stock (either meat or fish), \ a pint
of milk, i tablespoonful of cream, 2 yolks of eggs, 1 teaspoonful of
lemon- juice, 1 oz. of butter, -f of an oz. of Hour, salt and pepper.
Method. — Melt the butter, add the Hour and cook for a few minutes
without browning. Add the stock and milk, stir until boiling, then simmer
gently for 15 minutes, stirring frequently. Whisk the yolks of the
eggs and cream well together, and add them to the sauce when not quite
boiling. Season to taste, add the lemon-juice, and whisk the mixture
by the side of the fire until the sauce thickens slightly, but do not allow
it to boil. Strain and use with fish or meat, according to the stock
forming the base.
Time. — From 35 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, 6d., in addition to the
stock.
182. — CAPER SAUCE. ( Fr . — Sauce aux Capres.)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of melted butter (see page 228) 1 tablespoonful of
capers, either cut in two or coarsely chopped, 1 dessertspoonful of
vinegar from the capers, salt and pepper.
Method. — Make the melted butter as directed, add to it the capers,
vinegar and seasoning, and use.
Time. — Altogether, about 20 minutes. Average Cost, 3d. to 4d.
Quantity pint.
Note.— If for serving with boiled mutton, make the melted butter sauce
with the liquor in which the meat was boiled, instead of plain water.
Capers (Fr.: Cdpres). — The name given to the unopened flower-buds of a low trailing shrub which
grows wild among the crevices of the rocks of Greece and in Northern Africa, and is cultivated in the
South of Europe. It was introduced into Britain as early as 1586. After being pickled in vinegar
and salt, they are imported from Sicily, Italy, and the south of France, and are used as a table-sauce
chiefly with boiled mutton. The flower-buds of the nasturtium are frequently pickled and used as a
substitute for the genuine article.
183.— CAPER SAUCE, SUBSTITUTE FOR.
Ingredients.— 4 a pint of melted butter (see Sauces) 2 tablespoonfuls of
cut parsley, 1 tablespoonful of vinegar, salt and pepper.
Method. — Choose dark-coloured parsley, or boil it slowly in order to
destroy some of its colour, and then cut it into small pieces, but do not
chop it. Have the melted butter ready made, according to directions
given, add to it the parsley, vinegar, salt and pepper to taste.
Serve as a substitute for caper sauce.
Average Cost. — 2d. or 3d.
WHITE SAUCES AND SALAD DRESSINGS
223
184.— CELERY SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Celeri.)
(For Boiled Turkey and Fowls.)
Ingredients. — of a pint of whit ; stock, \ a pint of milk, 2 table-
spoonfuls of cream, i£ ozs. of butte:, i|- ozs. of flour, 2 sticks of celery
(white part only), a blade of mace, salt and pepper.
Method. —Wash the celery, cut it into short pieces, cover with cold
water, bring to the boil, and strain. Put the stock and mace into a
stewpan, add the celery, simmer until tender (45 to 60 minutes),
then rub through a fine hair sieve. Melt the butter in the stewpan,
stir in the flour, cook for 2 or 3 minutes, then add the milk, and celery
puree, and stir until it boils. Add seasoning to taste, stir in the
cream and use as required.
Average Cost. — is. per pint. Sufficient for a boiled turkey or two
fowls.
185. — CELERY SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Celeri.)
(A more simple Recipe.)
Ingredients. — f of a pint of melted butter (see page 2 28) 1 head of
celery (the white part only), salt and pepper.
Method. — Wash the celery and chop it coarsely. Put it into a stew-
pan with barely sufficient water to cover it, and simmer for \ an hour.
Stir occasionally as the water evaporates and the celery becomes rather
dry. Add the melted butter, stir until it boils, season to taste, and
serve.
Time. — 1 hour. Average Cost, 3d. Sufficient for a boiled turkey.
186. — CHAUD-FROID SAUCE (WHITE),
(Fr. — Sauce Chaud-Froid Blanche.) (Cold
Sauce for masking Chicken, Cutlets, etc.)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of Bechamel sauce, \ of a pint of aspic jelly,
i of a pint of cream, 5 or 6 sheets of French gelatine, 1 teaspoonful
of chilli vinegar or lemon-juice.
Method. — Dissolve the gelatine in the aspic jelly, and mix with the
hot sauce. Stir over the fire until it boils, then add the vinegar or
lemon-juice, simmer for 3 or 4 minutes, and strain or pass through a
tammy-cloth. When cool add the cream, and use as required, when
just on the point of setting.
Time. — 25 to 35 minutes. Average Cost, is. to is. 2d. for this quantity.
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HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Note. — Brown Chaud-Froid sauce may also be made by substituting equal
quantities of good brown sauce and tomato sauce for the Bechamel. Green
Chaud-Froid is composed of Bechamel and a few drops of spinach greening,
and pink Chaud-Froid is made by adding a few drops of carmine to the
Bechamel sauce. The aspic jelly and gelatine are added to give brightness
and stiffness to the sauces.
187. — CHESTNUT SAUCE. ( Fr . — Sauce aux de Mar-
rons.) (For Chicken or Turkey.)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of white stock, J of a pint of cream or milk,
\ a lb. of chestnuts, a thinly cut strip of lemon-rind, cayenne, salt.
Method. — Cut the tops off the chestnuts and roast or bake them for
about 20 minutes. Remove the outer and inner skins, put them into
a saucepan with the stock and lemon-rind, and let them simmer until
tender (about \ hour). Rub through a fine sieve, return to the sauce-
pan, add seasoning to taste, and re-heat. Stir in the cream, and use as
required. If milk is used, mix with it a teaspoonful of cornflour or
ordinary flour, stir it into the puree when boiling, and simmer for 5
minutes to cook the flour. Season with salt and a tiny pinch of
cayenne.
Time. — ij to 2 hours. Average Cost, iod. per pint with cream.
Sufficient for a boiled turkey.
Note. — Brown chestnut sauce may be made by substituting | a pint of
brown sauce and a £ of a pint of brown stock for the white stock and cream.
188. — CREAM SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce a la Creme.)
(For Sweetbreads, Chickens, Soles.)
Ingredients. — 3 tablespoonfuls of Bechamel sauce, 2 tablespoonfuls
of cream, 1 oz. of butter, 2 yolks of eggs, a few drops of lemon-juice, salt
and pepper.
Method. — Put all the ingredients except the lemon juice into a small
saucepan, which must be placed either in a bain-marie or in a larger
shallow pan, half full of boiling water. Stir the mixture until it
acquires the consistency of thick cream, then pass through a tammy-
cloth, reheat, add the lemon juice, and use.
Time. — 20 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. to yd.
189. — CUCUMBER SAUCE (Hot). (Fr.— Sauce aux
Concombres [Chaude].)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of Bechamel sauce (see page 220) 1 cucumber, 1
oz. of butter, a little spinach greening, salt and pepper.
Method. — Peel the cucumber, cut into thick slices, and remove the
seeds. Melt the butter in a stewpan, put in the cucumber, cover
WHITE SAUCES AND SALAD DRESSINGS
225
closely, and let it steam in the butter until tender (about 30 minutes),
stirring occasionally. When sufficiently cooked, add the sauce,
lemon-juice, seasoning, and spinach greening. Cook two or three
minutes, pass through a sieve and serve.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 8d. to iod. for this quantity.
190. — DUTCH SAUCE. (Fa— Sauce Hollandaise.)
Ingredients. — 2 tablcspoonfuls of vinegar, 1 shallot, peeled and chopped,
1 bay-leaf, 4 white peppercorns crushed, 1 gill of white sauce, the yolks
of 2 eggs, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, 2 ozs. of butter, salt.
Method. — Put the vinegar (French wine vinegar in preference to
malt vinegar) with the shallot, bay-leaf and peppercorns in a stewpan,
and reduce to \ its original quantity ; add the white sauce, let it boil,
remove the bay-leaf, and stir in the yolks of eggs. When it begins to
thicken remove the preparation from the fire and strain into another
stewpan. Re-heat (taking great care that the sauce does not curdle),
and whisk in the butter by degrees. Add the lemon-juice and enough
salt to taste, and serve with boiled fish, artichokes, asparagus, etc.
Time.— About \ an hour. Average Cost, 6d. to /d.
191. — DUTCH SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Hollandaise.)
(Another Method.)
Ingredients. — The yolks of 3 eggs, 2 ozs. butter, 1 gill Bechamel sauce,
£ of a gill of stock, the juice of \ a lemon, salt and pepper.
Method. — Make the sauce hot, remove the saucepan to the side of the
stove, and whisk in the yolks of the eggs, stock and lemon-juice. Cook
over a slow fire, then add the butter in small pieces off the fire.
Season, strain, and it is ready to serve. The sauce must be care-
fully cooked, and on no account placed on the fire after the butter
is added, or it will oil.
Time. 20 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. to Sd.
The Lemon (Fr.: Citron). — This well-known fruit of the lemon tree, Citrus Limonum, is a native of
the tropical parts of Asia, and was probably introduced into south-western Europe by the Arabs.
It is allied to the citron and the orange, but is more hardy than the latter. The lemon is
imported into this country chiefly from Spain, Portugal, Sicily, and the Azores. From the
lemon lime-juice is obtained, which is used in the manufacture of lemonade, and as a beverage ; it
is also largely employed in calico printing to discharge colours. The anti-scorbutic properties of
lime-juice are of high value, and lime-juice is extensively used in the Navy and the Merchant Service.
Its constituents are sugar, vegetable, albuminous and mineral matter, including potash. Citric
acid and the oil of lemon are obtained by pressure and distillation from the fresh peel ; the latter is a
volatile oil of a yellow or greenish colour, much used in perfumery, medicinal preparations, and for
various domestic purposes. Lemon-peel is prepared by drying the rind, and preserving it with sugar.
192. — FRENCH ONION SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Sou-
bise.)
Ingredients. — 2 Spanish onions, 1 gill of white stock, \ a pint of Be-
chamel sauce, white pepper, salt, a pinch of white sugar
I
226
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Peel the onions, parboil them in salted water, strain and
chop very finely. Return to the saucepan, stir over the fire until
all moisture is absorbed, then add the stock and cook until tender.
Now add the sauce, reduce until the desired consistency is acquired,
add the seasoning, and serve.
Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, 6d. to yd.
Pepper (Fr. Poivrc). — This well-known aromatic spice is a native of the East Indies, and from thence
has been introduced into the West Indian Islands, and other tropical parts. The most esteemed
varieties are those of Sumatra, Java, and Malacca. The pepper plant belongs to the natural order
Piperaceae, its most important species being Piper nigrum , the black pepper of commerce. It is
a climbing shrub, with alternate, heart-shape leathery leaves, and little globular berries, about the
size of a currant, at first green, but when ripe of a bright-red colour. The peppercorns are gathered
when red and exposed to the sun, when they change to a black hue. White Pepper is obtained
from the finest of the berries, which are plucked when fully ripe, steeped in lime-water, and sub-
jected to a process of rubbing, which removes the outer coat. It is less acrid than the ordinary black
pepper, to which it is considered to be superior, for only the finest berries will bear such special pre-
paration.
193. — GERMAN SAUCE. ( Fr . — Sauce Allemande.)
Ingredients. — 1 pint of good white stock, 1 tablespoonful of cream,
1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, the yolks of 2 eggs, a teaspoonful of lemon-
juice, nutmeg, salt and pepper.
Method. — Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the flour, stir the mixture
for a few minutes without allowing it to brown, then put in the stock
and stir until it boils. Let it simmer gently for \ an hour, skim off
any butter that may be floating on the top, and season to taste. Beat
the yolks of the eggs and cream together, add them to the sauce, and
cook gently for a few minutes until the sauce thickens, but it must not
boil, or the eggs may curdle. Add the lemon, strain, or pass through
a tammy-cloth, and use as required.
Time. — 40 to 60 minutes. Average Cost, is.
The Nutmeg (Fr. : Muscade) is a native of the tropics, and is largely cultivated in the Molucca
Islands, especially in the Banda group. The Dutch, when supreme in the East, sought to obtain a
monopoly of this spice, by confining the growth of the nutmeg to the Island of Great Banda. It
is now cultivated in Java. Sumatra, Penang, Singapore, Southern India, Madagascar, Brazil, and the
West Indies. The nutmeg tree, which somewhat resembles the pear-tree in the beauty of its
form, foliage, and blossom, grows to the height of about 25 feet, and begins to bear fruit in its
ninth year^ yielding about 8 lb. The nut is oval in shape, very hard, and of a dark-brown
colour. Previous to exportation, the fruit is smoke-dried until the nut rattles in the shell, when it is
extracted. There are various species of nutmegs, the chief being Myristica / ragrans , which yields the
chief supply, and is the most aromatic and delicate in its flavour ; and Myristica fatua , with a longer
kernel of a pale colour, but less aromatic. The nutmeg is largely used as a condiment, and in medicine
as a stimulant and carminative. In large quantities it acts as a narcotic. From the nutmeg a fixed
and a volatile oil are obtained.
194.— GREEN MOUSSELINE SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce
Mousseline Verte.)
Ingredients. — \ pint of stiff Mayonnaise sauce, \ a feaspoonful made
English mustard, \ gill Bechamel sauce, \ gill of cream, a few leaves
of tarragon and chervil i teaspoonful of spinach greening, a
pinch of cayenne or paprika pepper, a pinch of salt, \ a lemon.
WHITE SAUCES AND SALAD DRESSINGS
227
Method. — Mix the Mayonnaise sauce, mustard, and cream in a basin ;
chop the tarragon and chervil leaves and put them with the greening
into the Bechamel sauce, boil for a few minutes, and pass through
a fine tammy-cloth. Let the preparation cool, and incorporate it with
the cold sauce. Season to taste with a little salt and pepper, and
finish by working in the juice of \ a lemon. Serve cold.
Time. 1 hour. — Average Cost, iod. to is. for this quantity.
Cayenne (Fr. : Poivrc de Cayenne). — The name given to the powder prepared from several varieties
of the capsicum, natives of the East and West Indies, and other hot climates. The pods of the capsi-
cum, which are of a handsome scarlet, yellow, or greenish colour, are extremely pungent to the taste,
and in the green state are used as a pickle. When ripe, the pods are ground into Cayenne pepper,
the most acrid and stimulating of the spices. The fruit of various species of the capsicum is sold,
under the name of Chilies, the Mexican name for the capsicum ; the capsicums preserved in |acetic
acid which is called “ Chili Vinegar.” Capsicum is used in medicine chiefly in the form of a tincture,
as a stimulant or digestive, and as a remedy for relaxed throats. Cayenne judiciously used is a valu-
able condiment for improving the flavour of dishes.
195.— HORSERADISH SAUCE OR CREAM. (Hot.)
(Fr.— Creme de Raifort [Chaude].)
Ingredients. — 1 oz. of flour, 2 ozs. of butter, 1 pint of cream, 3 table-
spoonfuls of finely-grated horseradish, 1 teaspoonful of vinegar, 1 pinch
of salt, \ a teaspoonful of sugar.
Method. — Blend the flour with the butter, boil the cream, and
add it to the butter and flour ; stir over the fire, and boil for 5 minutes,
taking great care not to let it curdle. Pass through a tammy-cloth or
napkin. Add the horseradish, salt and vinegar, and mix well. Serve
hot with boiled fish, or roast meat, etc.
Time. — 20 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, is. qd. to 2s.
The Horseradish (Ft.: Raifort.) is a cruciformplant, common to most of the temperate countries
of Europe, It grows abundantly in Britain, to which, however, it is not indigenous, nor has its original
habitat been ascertained. It is a well-known condiment, with a pungent taste and odour, and is,
also, used as a stomachic and diuretic medicine, and externally as a blister. The root of aconite
bears some resemblance to that of the horseradish ; care should, therefore, be taken to prevent acci-
dents arising from mistaking the two roots. In the case of aconite, the root externally is of a dark-
brown colour, tapering in shape, and bitter when first tasted. The root of the horseradish has
a less tapering form, its odour and taste are at first pungent and acrid, and its external colour is
a dirty white. A volatile oil is present in the horseradish, but its volatility is so great that even when
prepared for the table, it rapidly spoils by exposure to the air. For the same reason the root should
not be preserved by drying, but be kept moist by burying it in sand.
196.— HORSERADISH SAUCE (Hot). (Fr. — Sauce
Raifort [Chaude].) (A more Economical
Method.)
Ingredients. — 2 tablespoonfuls of grated horseradish, a pint of
Bechamel sauce, \ a teaspoonful of castor sugar, -i- a tcaspoonful of
vinegar, cayenne, and salt.
Method. — Boil up the sauce, moisten the horseradish with the vinegar,
add it to the sauce with the other ingredients. Make the sauce thor-
oughly hot, but do not boil, after the vinegar is added, or it will curdle.
Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, qd. to 6d.
228
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
197. — HORSERADISH SAUCE (Cold). {Fr.— Sauce
Raifort [Froidej.)
Ingredients. — \ gill of wine vinegar, 2 hard-boiled eggs, 1 oz. of grated
horseradish, \ a teaspoonful of salt, 1 teaspoonful of castor sugar,
1 tablespoonful of cream.
Method. — Remove the yolks from the whites of the hard-boiled eggs,
put them in a basin, work with a wooden spoon until quite smooth,
then add the vinegar gradually, and stir the mixture until it becomes
creamy. Add the grated horseradish, sugar, salt, and lastly the cream,
stir a little longer, and serve in a sauceboat, or as directed.
Time. — 20 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. to ;d.
198. - HORSERADISH SAUCE (Cold). (Fr. — Sauce
Raifort [Froide].) (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — ozs. of grated horseradish, 1 gill of thick cream, 1
tablespoonful of white wine vinegar, 1 teaspoonful of castor sugar,
a little powdered mustard, pepper and salt.
Method. — Put the horseradish in a basin, add the sugar, mustard,
salt and pepper : moisten with vinegar, stir in the cream gradually.
Serve cold.
Time. — 10 to 15 minutes. Average Cost, 5d. to 6d.
199. — LOBSTER SAUCE. ( Fr . — Sauce Homard.)
Ingredients. — \ pint of Bechamel sauce, a small hen lobster, 1 oz. of
butter, seasoning.
Method.— Remove the coral from the lobster, wash it and pound it
with the butter, and rub all through a hair sieve. Remove the meat
from the tail and claws of the lobster, and cut it into small neat pieces.
Warm the Bechamel sauce, add the Coral-butter, mix well, then add
the pieces of lobster, warm thoroughly, season, and serve.
Time.—About \ an hour. Average Cost, qd. without the lobster.
200.— MAITRE D’HOTEL SAUCE. {Fr. — Sauce Mstitre
d’Hotel.)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of Bechamel sauce, 3 ozs. of butter, the juice of
a lemon, 1 teaspoonful of finely -chopped parsley, seasoning.
Method. — Put the Bechamel in a saucepan with a little water, stir
until it boils, reduce well, then add the butter a little at a time, and
WHITE SAUCES AND SALAD DRESSINGS 229
stir well. Strain the sauce into another saucepan, add the parsley,
lemon-juice, and seasoning, reheat and serve.
Time. — 25 to 35 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. to 8d. for this quantity.
The Maitre d’Hotel (Fr.). — The house-steward is synonymous with the maitre d’hotel of France,
and was called among the ancient Romans procurator, or major domo. In large households in Rome,
the slaves, when they had procured the various articles required for the repasts of the day, returned
to the spacious kitchen, with their loads of meat, game, fish, vegetables and fruit. Each one placed
his basket at the feet of the major domo, who examined its contents, and registered them on his tablets.
Provisions which needed no special preparation were then stored in a pantry near to the dining-
room, the other comestibles being assigned to the more immediate care of the cook.
201. — MAYONNAISE SAUCE. {Fr.— Sauce Mayon-
naise.)
Ingredients. — 2 yolks of eggs, 1 teaspoonful of French mustard, -} a
teaspoonful of salt, a pinch of pepper, 1 tablespoonful of tarragon
vinegar, about 1 pint of best salad oil, 1 tablespoonful of cream.
Method. — Put the yolks into a basin, add the mustard, salt and
pepper, stir quickly with a wooden spoon. Add the oil, first drop by drop
and afterwards more quickly, and at intervals a few drops of the
vinegar By stirring well, the mixture should become the consistency
of very thick cream. Lastly, add the cream, stirring all the while.
A little cold water may be added if the sauce is found to be too thick.
In hot weather, the basin in which the Mayonnaise is made should be
placed in a vessel of crushed ice.
Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, is. 3d. to is. 6d.
202. — MELTED BUTTER. (Fr. — Sauce au Beurre.)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of water, 1 oz. of butter, f- of an oz. of flour,
salt and pepper.
Method. — Melt the butter in a saucepan, stir in the flour and cook
for 2 or 3 minutes. The water now to be added must not be quite
boiling, but it may be hot, and as the sauce has to be constantly stirred
until it boils to incorporate the substances contained in it, considerable
lime is saved by adding warm or hot water, instead of cold. Bring to
the boil, and simmer for a few minutes. Season, and use as required.
Time. — 10 to 15 minutes. Average Cost, 2d.
203. — MELTED BUTTER. {Fr. — Sauce au Beurre.)
(An Old-fashioned Method.)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of hot water, | oz. of fresh butter, 1 dessert-
spoonful of flour, salt and pepper.
Method. — Mix the flour smoothly with a little cold water in a basin,
add the hot water gradually, stirring all the time. Put it into a sauce-
pan, bring to the boil, simmer for 10 minutes, then add the salt and
pepper, stir in the butter, and serve.
Time. — About 15 minutes. Average Cost, i^d.
230
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
204. — NORMANDY SAUCE. (Fr. — Sauce Normande.)
Ingredients. — f pint white stock, J pint fish stock (No. 5), 2 oz.
butter, I oz. flour, 2 yolks of eggs, lemon juice.
Method. — Melt 1 oz. of butter in a stewpan, add 1 oz. of flour, stir
sufficiently long to cook the flour, moisten with the stock, and allow it
to boil for 10 minutes. Skim well, and finish with a liaison or bind-
ing of 2 yolks of eggs. Stir in bit by bit 1 oz. of butter and a few
drops of lemon-juice. Pass through a fine strainer or tammy-cloth, and
use as directed.
Time. — 10 minutes. Probable Cost, is. Sufficient for 1 large dish.
205. — ONION SAUCE. (Fr. — Sauce aux Oignons.)
Ingredients. — a pint of milk, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, 1 oz. of
butter, £ oz. of flour, 2 onions (about \ a lb.), salt and pepper.
Method. — Peel the onions, put them into cold water, bring to the
boil, and strain. Return to the saucepan with \ a teaspoonful of salt
and sufficient boiling water to cover them, and boil until tender (about
1 hour). When the onions are sufficiently cooked they must be well
drained and chopped coarsely. Melt the butter in a saucepan, stir
in the flour and cook for 2 or 3 minutes, then add the milk and stir until
it boils. Add the onion to it, season to taste, simmer for a few minutes,
then stir in the cream, and serve.
Time. — to i£ hours. Average Cost, 4d. to 3d.
206. — PARSLEY SAUCE. (Fr. — Sauce de Persil.)
(For Boiled Fowl, Veal, Calf’s Head, etc.)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of the liquor in which the meat has been cooked,
£ of a pint of milk, 1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, 1 tablespoonful of
chopped parsley, salt and pepper.
Method. — Melt the butter in a saucepan, stir in the flour, cook for
2 or 3 minutes, then add the liquor and milk, and stir until it boils.
Simmer for a few minutes, season to taste, add the parsley, and use as
required. If the parsley is allowed to boil in the sauce it will lose
some of its green colour.
Time. — 20 to 25 minutes. Average Cost, 3d.
Parsley (Fr. '.Persil). — The common parsley is a well-known garden vegetable, and has long been
cultivated for seasoning and garnishing dishes, and for flavouring soups. The leaf-stalks of one variety
of parsley, the celery-leaved, are blanched and eaten like celery. Parsley was known to the
ancient Greeks, reference being made to it in the Iliad, and among the Romans it was used as a symbol
of mourning, and placed on the tables at funeral feasts. The Carthagenians found it in Sardinia,
and introduced the herb to the inhabitiants of Marseilles. There are various quaint superstitions
connected with parsley, some of which survive to the present day in England and Scotland.
WHITE SAUCES AND SALAD DRESSINGS
231
207. — POULETTE SAUCE. (Fr. — Sauce Poulette.)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of Bechamel sauce, 1 raw yolk of egg, 1 table-
spoonful of cream, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 1 teaspoonful
of lemon-juice, salt and pepper.
Method. — Mix the yolk of the egg and the cream together. Have the
sauce nearly boiling in a saucepan, pour in the egg and cream, and stir
for a few minutes, but the preparation must not boil, or the egg
may curdle. Add the parsley and lemon-juice, season to taste, and
serve.
Time. — About 10 minutes. Average Cost, 5d. to 6d.
208. — SALAD DRESSING (French). (Fr.— Sauce Re-
moulade.)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of salad oil, 2 tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar,
1 teaspoonful of made mustard, 1 yolk of egg, a few leaves of tarragon
parsley and chives, a pinch of castor sugar, salt and pepper.
"Method. — Blanch the herbs, drain, and chop finely. Put the yolk of
egg into a basin, add the seasoning, work in the oil and vinegar, stirring
the ingredients vigorously with a wooden spoon. Then add the herbs,
mustard, and sugar.
Time. — 20 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, 8cl. to pd. for this quantity.
Tarragon (Fr. : Estragon). — The leaves of this aromatic plant, known to botanists as Artemisia
dracunculus , are much used in France as a flavouring ingredient for salads. From it is made tarragon
vinegar , which the French employ to mix their mustard. It is also used as a pickle, and as a flavour
for fish-sauces. From one species of the genus Artemisia , which grows in Switzerland, the bitter
aromatic cordial, absinthe , is prepared. The common wormwood, Artemisia absinthum, was known
to the Greeks, who valued it as a medicinal plant.
209. -— SALAD DRESSING (made without oil.)
Ingredients. — 2 hard-boiled eggs, 4 tablespoonfuls of cream, 1 table-
spoonful of vinegar, 1 teaspoonful of mixed mustard, ]- of a teaspoonful
each of pepper, salt, and castor sugar.
Method. — Pound the yolks of the eggs in a mortar, then put them
into a basin, and add the mustard, salt, pepper and sugar, add the
cream gradually, and stir vigorously until it becomes very thick.
Add the vinegar drop by drop just at the last.
Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, from 6d. to yd.
210. — SORREL SAUCE. (Fr. — Sauce a, l’Oseille.)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of White Sauce ( see page 233) a good hand-
ful of sorrel, salt and pepper.
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
2^2
Method. — Wash and pick the sorrel, put it into a saucepan without any
water, and cook until tender. Chop finely, and rub through a hair
sieve. Have the sauce boiling in a saucepan, add to it the puree, stir
and cook tor 3 or 4 minutes, season to taste, and serve.
Time. — 50 to 60 minutes. Average Cost. 4d.
21 1. — SOUBISE SAUCE. ( Fr . — Sauce Soubise.)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of Bechamel Sauce, or other good white sauce,
2 tablespoonfuls of white stock, 2 Spanish onions, sugar, salt and pepper.
Method. — Peel and parboil the onions in salted water, then drain well
and chop them finely. Put the prepared onions and stock into a stew-
pan, cover closely, cook slowly until reduced to a pulp, and add the
sauce. Simmer gently until reduced to the right consistency, then
add a pinch of sugar, season to taste, and use as required.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 6d. to yd.
212. — SUPREME SAUCE. (Fr. — Sauce Supreme.)
Ingredients. — 1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, 1 \ pints of chicken stock,
1 small onion, 1 clove, \ a bay-leaf, i-} ozs. of fresh butter, 1 tablespoon-
ful cream, 1 yolk of egg, the juice of \ a lemon.
Method. — Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the flour, cook well
over fire, but do not let it brown, then add stock, onion, clove, and
bay-leaf. Stir until boiling, simmer for 15 minutes, and skim well.
Now work in the fresh butter, cream, and yolk of egg, cook for 3
minutes, but do not let the sauce boil. Add the lemon-juice, pass the
sauce through a tammy-cloth, warm, and serve.
Time. — About i an hour. Average Cost, 6d. exclusive of the stock.
213. — TARTARE SAUCE. (Fr. — Sauce Tartare.)
Ingredients. — J of a pint of Mayonnaise sauce, 1 tablespoonful of
chopped gherkin or capers, \ a teaspoonful of very finely-chopped shal-
lot (this may be omitted).
Method. — Stir the gherkin and onion lightly into the mayonnaise, and
use as required.
Time. — 25 minutes altogether. Average Cost, 3d. to yd.
214. — TOURNEE SAUCE. (Fr. — Sauce Tournee.)
Ingredients. — 1 pint of white stock, 2 ozs. of butter, ozs. of flour,
6 spring onions, 6 small mushrooms coarsely-chopped, a bouquet-
garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), salt and pepper.
Method. — Melt the butter in a saucepan, add the flour, stir and cook
WHITE SAUCES AND SALAD DRESSINGS 233
for a few minutes without browning, and put in the stock. Add the
white part of the onions, the bouquet-garni, mushrooms, and a little
salt and pepper, simmer gently for 20 minutes, then strain and use as
required.
Time. — About \ an hour. Average Cost, iod. to is.
215. — VALOIS SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Valois.)
Ingredients. — 1 pint of strong chicken stock, 4 yolks of eggs, 2 ozs. of
butter, 2 dessertspoonfuls of white vinegar, 1 teaspoonful of chopped
parsley, 2 shallots finely-chopped, salt and pepper.
Method. — Boil the stock gently until reduced to a quarter of the
original quantity. Put the vinegar and shallots into another saucepan,
simmer gently until considerably reduced, and add the prepared
stock. Beat the yolks of the eggs well, stir them into the contents of
the saucepan when just below boiling point, whisk until the preparation
thickens, and season to taste. Add the butter bit by bit, whisking
between each addition, and just before serving stir in the parsley.
Time. — Altogether, about id hours. Average Cost, yd., exclusive of
the stock.
216. — VELOUTE SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Veloute.)
Ingredients. — i-Jf- ozs. butter, -J oz. of sifted flour, 1 pint of good white
stock, \ a bay leaf, 8 peppercorns.
Method. — Melt 1 oz. of butter in a stewpan, stir in the flour, cook
a little without browning, moisten with the stock, add the bay-leaf
and peppercorns, stir and simmer slowly for } an hour, take off the
scum, press through a tammy-cloth or napkin, return to the stew-
pan, and finish with the remainder of the butter, or a little thick cream.
Use as required.
Time. — 50 to 60 minutes. Average Cost, iod. to is.
Note. — The stock from which Veloute sauce should be made is prepared
from veal bones, chicken bones, and trimmings, a flavouring of carrot, onion,
celery, bouquet-garni, the needful amount of seasoning, and an appropriate
quantity of water, i.e. 1 quart of water to \\ lbs. of meat and vegetables.
217. — VELOUTE OR VELVET SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce
Veloute.) (Another method.)
Ingredients. — 1 oz. of flour, i|- ozs. of butter, 1 pint of veal stock,
i of a gill of mushroom liquor, a gill of cream, 1 bouquet-garni (parsley,
thyme, bay-leaf), 6 peppercorns, salt, nutmeg, and lemon-juice.
234
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Melt the butter, stir in the flour, cook over the fire for a
few minutes, but do not let the flour brown. Add stock, mushroom
liquor, bouquet-garni, and crushed peppercorns. Boil slowly for
20 minutes, skim well. Pass through a tammy-cloth, warm up, and
just before serving add cream, seasoning, and lemon-juice.
Time. — About \ an hour. Average Cost, iod. to is.
218. — VINAIGRETTE SAUCE. (Fr. — Sauce Vinai-
grette.) (For Asparagus, Calf’s Head,
Brains, etc.)
Ingredients. — 4 tablespoonfuls of salad oil, 2 tablespoonfuls of tarragon
vinegar, \ a teaspoonful each of finely-chopped gherkin, shallot and
parsley, salt and pepper.
Method. — Mix all well together, and use as required.
Time. — About 5 minutes. Average Cost, qd. or 5d.
219. — WHITE ITALIAN SAUCE.
Ingredients. — 4 °f a pint °f good white stock, J of a pint of Bechamel
sauce, 1 tablespoonful of cream, 1 oz. of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of
finely-chopped fresh button mushrooms, 1 dessertspoonful of finely-
chopped parsley, 1 shallot finely chopped, salt and pepper.
Method. — Melt the butter in a stewpan, put in the mushrooms and
shallot, and fry without browning for about 10 minutes. Add the stock,
cover closely, and simmer until reduced to about \ the original quantity.
Put in the Bechamel sauce and boil up, then add seasoning to taste,
the chopped parsley and cream, and use as required.
Time. — 40 to 50 minutes. Average Cost, iod. to is.
220. WHITE MUSHROOM SAUCE. (Fr.- Sauce aux
Champignons [Blanche].)
Ingredients. — i-J- gills of Bechamel sauce, i-J- gills of veal stock, 8 or 10
preserved mushrooms, \ a gill of the liquor, \ a gill of Chablis, 1 dessert-
spoonful of lemon- juice, 1 tablespoonful of cream.
Method. — Boil the stock and Bechamel together until reduced to
half the original quantity. Add the mushrooms sliced, the liquor,
lemon-juice, and wine. Boil again, skim, season, and add the cream.
Time. — 20 to 25 minutes. Average Cost, is. 2d. to is. qd.
221. — WHITE SAUCE FOR VEGETABLES, VEAL,
RABBIT, AND POULTRY. (Fr.— Sauce
Blanche.)
Ingredients. — 1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, \ a pint of milk, 4 a gill
of white stock, \ a bay-leaf, salt and white pepper.
WHITE SAUCES AND SALAD DRESSINGS
235
Method. — -Melt the butter in a small saucepan, stir in the flour, and
cook for a few minutes without allowing the flour to brown. Dilute
with the milk, stir till it boils, then add the stock and bay-leaf, and
let simmer for at least 10 minutes. Remove the bay-leaf, season to
taste, and strain.
Time. — 25 to 35 minutes. Average Cost, 4d.
222.— WHITE SAUCE WITHOUT STOCK.
(Fr. — Sauce Blanche.) (For Vegetables
Meat, Poultry, etc.)
Ingredients. -1 pint of milk, 1 tablespoonful of cream (this may be
omitted), 2 ozs. of butter, i\ ozs. of flour, 1 small carrot, 1 small onion,
1 strip of celery, 1 bay-leaf, salt, 10 peppercorns.
Method. — Cut the carrot and celery into rather large pieces, pyt
them with the milk, onion, and bay-leaf into a saucepan, and
simmer gently for about \ an hour. If the milk reduces in simmering,
add more to make up the original quantity. Melt the butter in another
saucepan, stir in the flour, and cook for 7 or 8 minutes without browning.
I.et this rouxcool slightly, then add to it the milk and vegetables, and
whisk briskly until it boils. Simmer for 10 minutes, strain through a
tammy-cloth, or rub through a fine hair sieve, re-heat, season to taste
add the cream, and use.
Time. — About 50 minutes. Average Cost, 6d.
Note. — For white sauces made with stock, see Bechamel, page 221,
Veloute, page 232, and Allemande, page 219.
223.— WHITE SAUCE FOR VEGETABLES, MEAT,
POULTRY, OR FISH. (Economical.)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of milk, a pint of either water, fish stock,
or liquor in which meat or poultry has been boiled, 1-^- ozs. butter,
2 ozs. of flour, mace or nutmeg, salt and pepper.
Method. — Melt the butter in a saucepan, stir in the flour and cook
for 5 minutes, add the milk and stock, stir until it boils, then simmer
gently for 10 minutes. Season to taste, add a pinch of nutmeg, and
use as required.
Time. — 25 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, 3d.
Note. — Onion cooked and chopped and parsley chopped should be added
to these sauces before serving. Oysters, mussels, cockles, a few minutes
before serving, but the sauce must not boil after these additions.
236
RECIPES FOR BROWN SAUCES
224.— ASPIC CREAM.
Ingredients. — \\ gills of aspic jelly, 1 gill of double cream, a tea-
spoonful of lemon-juice, a pinch of white pepper, and a pinch of castor
sugar.
Method. — Put the cream into a basin, stir it with a whisk, and grad-
ually add the aspic, which must be liquid, and add the lemon-juice and
seasoning, pass through a tammy or fine strainer, and use to mark
chickens, etc.
Brown Sauces.
225. — BACON SAUCE. ( Fr . — Sauce au Lard Fume.)
Ingredients. — J a lb. of ham or bacon cut into dice, 1 small onion
finely-chopped, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar,
\ a pint of water, salt and pepper.
Method. — Fry the bacon slightly, add the onion, sprinkle in the flour,
and fry slowly until lightly browned. Season to taste, add the vinegar
and water, stir until boiling, then pour over the previously cooked
potatoes, and serve as an accompaniment with roast chicken or veal.
Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. to 8d.
226. — BIGARADE SAUCE. (Fr. — Sauce Bigarade.)
(For Roast Duck or Goose.)
Ingredients. — \ a Seville orange, \ a pint of brown sauce, \ a pint
of good stock, 1 glass of port wine, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, salt and
pepper.
Method. — Strain the juice of the orange. Cut the rind into very fine
strips, cover with cold water and bring to the boil. Simmer gently
from 10 to 15 minutes, then strain and drain well. Mix the brown
sauce, stock and orange-juice together, and boil until reduced to half
the original quantity. Strain, return to the saucepan, add the pre-
pared orange-rind, lemon-juice and port wine, season to taste, boil
and use as required.
Time. — From 35 to 45 minutes. Average Cost, is.
227. — BORDELAISE SAUCE. (Fr. — Sauce Borde-
laise.)
Ingredients. — f of a pint of Espagnole sauce, 1 glass of claret, 2 finely-
chopped shallots, -} an oz. of glaze, 1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley,
tarragon and chervil, a pinch of sugar, seasoning.
Method. — Put the wine and shallots into a saucepan, and reduce
to half the quantity. Add the sauce and cook slowly for 20 minutes.
Skim, and add the rest of the ingredients, boil up, and serve.
Time. — About 40 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d.
RECIPES FOR BROWN SAUCES
2 37
228. — BRAIN SAUCE FOR SHEEPS’ HEAD.
Ingredients.— 2 sheeps’ brains, £ of a pint of liquor in which the heads
were cooked, 1 £ ozs. of butter, i-|- ozs. of flour, 1 small onion chopped,
1 teaspoonful of vinegar, salt and pepper.
Method. — Wash and soak the brains in salt and water. Tie them in
muslin, and cook them until firm in the pot containing the
sheeps’ heads. Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the flour, cook it
slowly until lightly browned, then put in the onion, and continue to
cook slowly until the whole acquires a nut-brown colour. Add the
pot-liquor, vinegar, salt and pepper to taste, simmer gently for 10
minutes, then stir in the brains previously coarsely-chopped, and
serve poured over the prepared heads, or separately.
Time. — Altogether, 1 hour. Average Cost, 2d., in addition to the
brains.
229. — BRETONNE SAUCE. {Fr. — Sauce Bretonne.)
Ingredients. — £ of a pint of brown sauce, 1 tablespoonful of haricot
puree, 1 onion sliced, \ an oz. of butter, salt and pepper.
Method. — Melt the butter, fry the onion until well-browned, add the
haricot puree and brown sauce, and bring to the boil. Season to
taste, simmer for 5 minutes, then pass through a fine strainer or tammy
cloth, re-heat, and use as required.
Time. — From 25 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, 8d.
230. — BROWN CAPER SAUCE. {Fr. — Sauce aux
Capres Brunes.) (For Steak, Kidneys, Fish.)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of Espagnole sauce, or brown sauce, 1 tea-
spoonful of vinegar, 1 teaspoonful of essence of anchovy, 1 tablespoon-
ful of capers cut in two, 1 small onion very finely-chopped, cayenne, the
juice of half a lemon.
Method. — Put the sauce, vinegar, essence of anchovy and onion into
a saucepan, boil, simmer for 10 minutes, and strain. Return to the
saucepan, and when quite hot add the cayenne, lemon-juice and capers,
and serve.
Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, nd.
231. — BROWN MUSHROOM SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce
aux Champignons [Brune].)
Ingredients. — 8 preserved mushrooms, \ a gill of the liquor, \ a gill of
sherry, } a gill of thin Espagnole sauce.
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
238
Method. — Chop the mushrooms finely, put them in a stewpan with
the liquor and the sherry, cover the pan, and boil well. Add the
Espagnole, boil up again, then season and serve.
Time. — From 20 to 30 minutes Average Cost, 8d.
The Mushroom (Fr. champignon). — This highly-esteemed fungus is found in all parts of the world,
and is remarkable for the rapidity of its growth. The species, and its several varieties, most usually
cultivated for table use is Agaricus campcstris. For culinary purposes the mushroom is of much
importance, and from it ketchup is prepared, which forms the basis of numerous sauces. There are
some 500 species of British mushrooms, and of these many are more or less poisonous, as the Fly mush-
room ( Agaricus muscarius), which has a warted orange or scarlet cap, and possesses highly narcotic
properties, causing delirium and death if eaten. Great care should be taken in gathering mushrooms
to ensure that they are of the edible kind.
232. — BROWN ONION SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Bre-
tonne.)
Ingredients. — 2 Spanish onions, \ a pint of Espagnole sauce, j- a gill
of haricot beans, seasoning, 2 ozs. of butter.
Method. — Soak the haricot beans for 12 hours, then put them on to
boil in salt and water, and when tender rub them through a hair sieve.
Skin and chop the onions, fry them in the butter, then add the sauce,
and boil slowly until the onions are tender. Pass the mixture through
a hair sieve, add the haricot puree, warm thoroughly, season, and
serve.
Time. From 2 to 2} hours. Average Cost, iod.
233. — BROWN SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Brune.)
Ingredients. — 1 pint of brown stock, 2 ozs. of butter, i-| ozs. of flour,
1 small carrot, 1 small onion, 6 fresh button mushrooms (when in
season), 1 tomato, salt and pepper.
Method. — Slice the mushrooms, carrot, and onion, and fry them until
brown in the butter. Sprinkle in the flour, stir and cook for a few
minutes, then add the sliced tomato and stock, and stir until it boils.
Simmer for 10 minutes, season to taste, strain or pass through a
tammy-cloth, re-heat, and serve. Preserved mushrooms may be used,
but they do not impart the same flavour to the sauce. A tablespoonful
of good mushroom ketchup is an improvement.
Time. — 40 to 45 minutes. Average Cost, about 6d., exclusive of the
stock.
234. — BROWN SAUCE. (Fr. — Sauce Brune.) (In-
expensive.)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of stock or water, 1 Oz. of butter or sweet
dripping, 1 oz. of flour, 1 small carrot, 1 small onion, salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the carrot and onion into small pieces. Melt the butter
in a saucepan, put in the flour and vegetables, and fry until brown,
An occasional stir is necessary to prevent the ingredients burning,
RECIPES FOR BROWN SAUCES
239
but if they are constantly stirred they brown less quickly. Add the
water or stock, stir until it boils, simmer for 10 minutes, then season
to taste, and use. A few drops of browning ( see page 214) may be
added when the sauce is too light in colour.
Time. — 25 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, 2d. without the stock.
235. — CALF’S HEAD, SAUCE FOR.
Ingredients. — 1 pint of the liquor in which the head was boiled,
2 ozs. of butter, i-J- ozs. of flour, 1 dessertspoonful of finely-
chopped parsley, the juice and finely-grated rind of a lemon, 1 onion
sliced, salt and pepper.
Method. — Fry the onion in the butter until well-browned, sprinkle
in the flour and brown it also, then add the stock. Simmer gently
for \ an hour to reduce, then strain. Return to the saucepan, and add
the parsley, lemon-rind, lemon-juice, and seasoning to taste, make
thoroughly hot, and serve.
Time. — From 50 to 60 minutes. Average Cost, 3M,
236. — CARROT SAUCE. ( Fr . — Sauce au Carotte.)
Ingredients. — f of a pint of stock, No. 7, 1 large carrot grated,
1 oz. of butter, 1 teaspooniul of finely-chopped parsley, 1 teaspoonful
ot lemon-juice, salt and pepper.
Method.— -Melt the butter in a saucepan, add the carrot, and let it
cook gently for 10 minutes. Add the stock, season to taste, and simmer
gently for \ an hour. Return to the saucepan, strain, add the parsley
and lemon-juice, bring to the boil, and use as required.
Time. —45 to 55 minutes. Average Cost, 7d.
237. — CHRISTOPHER NORTH’S SAUCE. (For
Meat or Game.)
Ingredients. — 1 glass of port, 2 tablespoonfuls of good brown sauce,
1 dessertspoonful of mushroom ketchup, 1 dessertspoonful of pounded
white sugar, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, f- a teaspoonful of
cayenne pepper, \ a teaspoonful of salt.
Method. — Mix all the ingredients thoroughly together and heat the
sauce gradually, by placing the vessel in which it is made in a saucepan
of boiling water. Do not allow it to boil, and serve directly it is ready.
This sauce, if bottled immediately, will keep for a fortnight, and will
be found excellent.
Time. — 15 minutes. Average Cost, iod.
240
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
238. — CHUTNEY SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce au Mangul.)
Make a sauce the same as for venison ( see page 251) omitting the
red currant jelly, and adding instead 1 heaped-up tablespoonful of
mango chutney, chopped rather finely.
239. — CIDER SAUCE. (Fr. — Sauce au Cidre.)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of cider, f of a pint of brown sauce, 2 cloves,
1 bay-leaf, salt and pepper.
Method. — Simmer the whole until reduced to the desired con:istency,
then pass through a fine strainer or tammy cloth, re-heat, and serve
as a substitute for champagne sauce for braised ham or duck.
Time. — About } an hour. Average Cost, 6d. to pd.
240. — CURRANT SAUCE. (Fr. — Sauce au Corinthe.)
Ingredients. — 2 ozs. of currants cleaned, 2 ozs. of butter, 1^ ozs. of
flour, |- of a pint of water, 1 glass of red wine, 1 dessertspoonful of lemon-
juice, 4 a teaspoonful of finely-grated lemon-rind, \ of a teaspoonful
of ground ginger, sugar to taste.
Method. — Melt the butter in a saucepan, add the flour, and cook
gently until it acquires a light brown colour. Put in the wine and
water, bring to the boil, add the lemon-rind and lemon-juice, ginger,
currants, and sugar to taste. Simmer gently for 10 minutes, then serve
without straining.
Time. — About i an hour. Average Cost, 6d. to 8d.
241. — CURRY SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce au Kari.)
Ingredients. — f of a pint of good stock, ozs. of butter, 1 tablespoon-
ful of curry powder, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, 1 tomato sliced, 1 small
onion sliced, salt.
Method. — Melt the butter in a saucepan, fry the onion until lightly
browned, then add the flour and curry powder. Stir and cook gently
for a few minutes, then add the stock, and bring to the boil. Put
in the tomato, and seasoning to taste. Simmer gently for 20 min-
utes, then strain and serve.
Time. — From 35 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, 8d. to tod.
242. — DEMI-GLACE SAUCE (Half Glaze). (Fr. —
Sauce Demi-Glace.)
Ingredients. — } a pint of Espagnole sauce, \ of a pint of good gravy.
RECIPES FOR BROWN SAUCES
241
Method. — Strain the gravy and remove all the fat. Put the sauce
and gravy into a saucepan, boil until well reduced, skim well, and
serve.
Time. — About \ an hour. Average Cost, 4d. to qd. without the gravy.
243. — DEVILLED SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce a la Diable.)
(For Devilled Bones, etc.)
Ingredients. — 2 tablespoonfuls of Harvey sauce, 2 tablespoonfuls ol
vinegar, 2 tablespoonfuls of butter (melted), 1 teaspoonful of mustard,
salt, and cayenne.
Method. — Mix all the ingredients together in a deep dish. Score the
legs of a cooked chicken, etc., lengthwise, and soak well in the sauce.
Grill, or fry in a little hot fat or butter, serve very hot.
Time. About 1 hour. Average Cost, 3d. to 4d. for this quantity of
sauce.
244. — ESPAGNOLE OR SPANISH SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce
Espagnols.)
Ingredients. — 1 quart of stock, 1 oz. of raw lean ham or bacon, 2 ozs.
of butter, 2 ozs. of flour, 1 carrot, 1 onion, 1 clove, 4 peppercorns, 1
bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), \ a gill of tomato pulp, \ a
gill of sherry, 2 mushrooms.
Method. — Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the ham, cut into small
pieces, fry for a few minutes, and then put in the vegetables sliced,
the herbs, and spices. Stir these ingredients over a slow fire for
about 5 minutes, then add the flour and brown it carefully. Add
the stock, tomato-pulp, and sherry, stir the sauce until boiling, draw
the saucepan to the side of the fire, let it boil slowly for about 1 hour,
then skim off the fat, pass the sauce through a tammy-cloth, season,
warm up, and serve.
Ti me. — About id hours. Average Cost, is. qcl. Quantity, 1 pint.
245. — FINANCIERE SAUCE. (. Fr . — Sauce Financiere.)
Ingredients. — 1 pint of brown sauce, 1 glass of sherry, \ an oz. of meat
glaze, Financiere garnish of cocks’-combs, truffles and small mush-
rooms, salt and pepper.
Method. — Make the brown sauce as directed, add the sherry and meat
glaze, and simmer gently until considerably reduced. Pass through
a fine strainer or tammy cloth, re-heat, add the Financiere garnish,
season to taste, and use as required.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 2s. 6d., exclusive of the
Financiere.
242
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
246. — FINANCIERE SAUCE. (Another way.)
Ingredients. — £ of a pint of brown sauce, 1 glass of sherry or Madeira,
1 tablespoonful of tomato puree, 1 tablespoonful of chicken-essence,
2 tablespoonfuls of mushroom liquor, 2 tablespoonfuls of truffle liquor,
salt and pepper.
Method. — Make the brown sauce as directed, add the rest of the
ingredients, simmer gently until well reduced, and pass through a tine
strainer or tammy cloth. Re heat, season to taste, and use as re-
quired.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, is. 3d. to is. 9d.
247. — FINANCIERE SAUCE. (Fr. — Sauce Financiere.)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of Espagnole sauce, \ an oz. of glaze, 1 glass of
sherry, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom liquor, financiere garnish.
Method. — Put all ingredients in a saucepan, let them come to the
boil, and cook slowly until well reduced. A garnish of truffles, small
mushrooms, and cocks’-combs is added to the sauce before serving.
Time. — About \ an hour. Average Cost, 2s. 3d. to 3s. 6d.
248. — GAME SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Gibier.)
Ingredients. — 1 pint of Espagnole sauce, 1 glass of sherry, 1 small
onion, \ a small carrot, £ of a small turnip, a bouquet-garni (parsley,
thyme, bay-leaf), a blade of mace, 1 clove, salt, pepper, the trim-
mings and carcasses of game ; those of grouse or woodcock are
preferable.
Method. — Chop the bones and trimmings of game into small pieces,
cut the vegetables into thin slices. Put all these ingredients into a sauce-
pan, add the sherry, herbs, flavourings and seasoning, and simmer
tor 5 minutes. Add the Espagnole sauce, bring to the boil, skin, and
cook slowly tor 15 minutes, pass through a tammy-cloth, re-heat, add
salt and pepper if necessary, and serve.
Time. — From 30 to 35 minutes. Average Cost, about is. to is. 3d., with-
out the game.
249. — GHERKIN OR CORNICHON SAUCE. (Fr.--
Sauce aux Cornichons.)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of brown sauce, 1 tablespoon ful of finely-
chopped gherkins, salt and pepper.
Method. — Make the sauce as directed, add the prepared gherkins,
season to taste, and use as required.
Time. — About \ an hour. Average Cost, 6d.
RECIPES FOR BROWN SAUCES
243
250. — HAM SAUCE. (Fr. — Sauce au Jambon.) (For
Veal, Duck, Game, etc.)
Ingredients.— \ a pint of Espagnole sauce, or brown sauce, 2 table-
spoonfuls of finely-shredded or coarsely-chopped ham, 1 dessertspoon-
ful of finely-chopped parsley, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, salt and
pepper.
Mode. — Make the sauce hot in a saucepan, add the ham, and simmer
for 5 minutes. Remove from the fire, put in the parsley, lemon-juice,
season, and serve.
Time. — 10 to 15 minutes. Average Cost, iod. to is.
251. — INDIAN SAUCE. (Fr. — Sauce a T Indienne.)
Ingredients. — J of a pint of stock, 1 \ ozs. of butter, 1 tablespoonful of
curry powder, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, 1 teaspoonful of chutney,
1 sour apple sliced, 1 onion sliced, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, salt.
Method. — Melt the butter in a stewpan, fry the onion brown, sprinkle
in the flour and curry powder, and cook gently for 10 or 15 minutes.
Add the stock, bring to the boil, put in the apple, chutney, and a good
pinch of salt, and simmer gently tor 20 minutes. Strain, re-heat, add
the lemon-juice, and use as required.
Time. — 45 to 50 minutes. Average Cost, 8d. to 9d.
252. — ITALIAN SAUCE. (Fr. — Sauce Italienne.)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of Espagnole sauce, 4 small shallots chopped,
4 fresh mushrooms coarsely chopped, 1 sprig of thyme, 1 bay-leaf, a
tablespoonful of sweet oil, 1 glass of chablis, \ a gill of stock.
Method. — Put the shallots in a small piece of muslin, and squeeze
them in cold water to extract some of the flavour, then place them
in a stewpan with the oil, cook for a few minutes, but do not brown.
Add the wine, mushrooms, herbs and stock, reduce well, and add the
Espagnole. Boil for 10 minutes, take out the herbs, skim off the oil,
and serve.
Time. — From 25 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, is. id. to is. 3d.
253. — ITALIAN SAUCE. ( Fr . — Sauce Italienne.)
(Another Method.)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of Espagnole sauce, 4 small shallots, 8 preserved
mushrooms, a sprig of thyme, 1 bay-leaf, 1 tablespoonful of sweet oil,
1 glass of Chablis or Sauterne, \ a gill of stock.
Method. — Peel the shallots, chop them finely, place them in the corner
244
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
of a clean cloth, hold tightly wrapped up under cold water, and
squeeze well. Put them in a small stewpan with the oil, stir over the
fire for a few minutes, to blend but not to colour. Add the wine,
the mushrooms (finely chopped), herbs, and the stock, let it reduce well,
and add the Espagnole. Boil for io minutes, take out the herbs, free
the sauce from the oil, and keep hot in the bain-marie until required.
Time. — i hour. Average Cost, for this quantity, is. id. to is. 3d.
Sufficient for two small dishes.
The Shallot, or Eschalot (Fr. eschalote) is a species of onion, Allium Ascalonicum, with compound
bulbs, which separate into “ cloves ” like garlK It is the mildest flavoured of all the onions. The
shallot is used to flavour soups and made-dishes, and in the raw state makes an excellent pickle. The
name is said to be derived from Ascalon, in the vicinity of which it was found growing wild by the
Crusaders, who brought it back with them to England.
254. — KIDNEY SAUCE. (Fr. — Sauce aux Rognons.)
Ingredients. — J of a lb. of ox kidney, -} a pint of stock or water, \ an
oz. of butter, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, salt and pepper.
Method. — Remove every particle of fat, and cut the kidney into small
pieces. Melt the butter, fry the kidney for a few minutes, then sprinkle
in the flour. Stir and cook until the flour is slightly browned, then add
the stock and season to taste. Bring to the boil, simmer gently for
20 minutes, then strain and serve.
Time. — 35 to 45 minutes. Average Cost, 3d. without the stock.
255. — MADEIRA SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce P/Iadere.)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of Espagnole sauce, 4 of a pint of good gravy,
1 oz. of meat glaze, 1 glass of Madeira or sherry, salt and pepper.
Method. — Simmer the sauce, gravy and wine until well reduced.
Season to taste, put in the meat glaze, stir until it is dissolved, then
strain the sauce, and use as required.
Time. — About \ hour. Average Cost, is. 3d. to is. 6d. for this
quantity. Sufficient for f of a pint of sauce.
256. — MINT SAUCE. (Fr. — Sauce a la Menthe.)
(To serve with Roast Lamb.)
Ingredients. — 4 dessertspoonfuls of chopped mint, 2 dessertspoonfuls
of sugar, \ of a pint of vinegar.
Method. — The mint should be young and fresh-gathered. Wash it
free from grit, pick the leaves from the stalks, mince them very
fine, put them into a tureen, add the sugar and vinegar, and stir till
the former is dissolved. This sauce is better by being made 2 or 3
hours before it is required for the table, as the vinegar then becomes
impregnated with the flavour of the mint. Good white wine vinegar is
RECIPES FOR BROWN SAUCES 245
preferable to ordinary malt vinegar. Sugar should be added with
discretion until the required degree of sweetness is obtained.
Average Cost. — 3d. Sufficient to serve with a quarter of lamb.
Mint (Fr. menthe), a genus of aromatic perennial herbs of the genus Mentha, widely distributed
throughout the temperate regions, some of them being common to Britain. The spear mint, Mentha
veridis, is the species most cultivated in gardens, and used in various ways for culinary purposes, and
as a sauce with vinegar and sugar. From the leaves of the Peppermint ( Mentha piperita) an essential
oil is distilled, which is largely used as an aromatic, a carminative, and a stimulant medicine.
257. — MUSHROOM SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Cham-
pignons.)
Ingredients. — \ of a pint of brown sauce, \ a pint of button mush-
rooms, 1 oz. of butter, salt and pepper.
Method. — Peel the mushrooms and remove the stalks. Heat the
butter in a stewpan, put in the mushrooms, and toss them over the
fire for 10 minutes. Drain off any butter that remains unabsorbed,
add the brown sauce, season to taste, make thoroughly hot, and serve.
Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, 7 d., in addition to the sauce.
258. — MUSHROOM SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce aux Cham-
pignons.) (Another way.)
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of mushrooms, of a pint of boiling stock, i£ ozs.
of butter, 1 oz. of Hour, salt and pepper.
Method. — Melt 1 oz. of butter in a stewpan, add the flour, and cook
slowly until it acquires a nut-brown colour. Meanwhile, peel and chop
the mushrooms coarsely, and fry them for 10 minutes in the remainder
of the butter. When ready, add the stock to the blended butter and
flour, stir until it boils, and season to taste. Simmer gently for 10
minutes, then add the prepared mushrooms, make thoroughly hot,
and use as required.
Time. — About 30 minutes. Average Cost, 7d., in addition to the
mushrooms.
259. — OLIVE SAUCE FOR POULTRY AND MEAT.
(Fr. — Sauce aux Olives.)
Ingredionts. — \ a pint of Espagnolc sauce, \ of a pint of good stock,
1 J- doz. small olives, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice.
Method. — Carefully stone the olives by paring them round in ribbons
so that they may be replaced in their original shape. Put them into
cold water, bring to the boil, and drain well. Have the sauce and
stock ready boiling, put in the olives, simmer gently for j an hour,
then add the lemon-juice, season, and serve.
246
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Time. — 40 to 45 minutes. Average Cost, is. 9d. to 2s.
The Olive (Fr. olive). — The picturesque olive-tree is indigenous to Syria and other warm Asiatic
countries, and flourishes in Spain and Italy. It was well-known in Greece, Solon, in the sixth cen-
tury, b.c., enacting laws for its cultivation. By Greek colonists it was introduced into the countries
bordering upon the Mediterranean, and is now also cultivated in Peru and California. The olive
was first planted in England in the seventeenth century, but its fruit does not ripen in the open air
11 northern climates. From early ages the olive-tree has been highly esteemed both for its fruit, and
for the valuable oil extracted from it. Many associations sacred and classic are connected with the
o'.ive-tree, which by the Romans was held to be sacred to the goddess Minerva. Wreaths of wild
olive constituted the prizes awarded to the victors in the classic races at Olympia, and an olive branch
was, and is still, regarded as the symbol of peace. The Mount of Olives was the scene of four of the
principal events in the life of the Founder of Christianity, and at its foot is the traditional site of the
Garden of Gethsemane. In the Old Testament many allusions are made by the prophetical and other
writers to the olive. The olive-tree attains to a great age : some specimens on the Mount of Olives
are estimated to have been 2,000 years in existence. Olives, commonly pickled in brine, are chiefly
used in England for dessert or between courses, to remove the flavour of the viands previously eaten.
There are three principal kinds of olives which are imported, those from Provence, in France
from Spain, and from Italy : those from Lucca are esteemed the best. One species of olive,
Olca fragrans, is largely used by the Chinese to perfume tea. The wood of the olive-tree is a
yellowish-brown, and is employed for inlaying and ornamental purposes. The wood of an American
species, Olea Americana , from its excessive hardness, is called “ devil-wood.” From the fruit of the
olive-tree the valuable olive-oil is obtained, the quality of the oil differing according to the soil on
which the olive is grown, and the care taken in extracting and preparing it. It is much used
•as an article of food in the countries where it is produced, and enters into the composition of many
dishes. In England it is chiefly used for dressing-salads, and other culinary purposes. Olive-oil,
the lightest of all the fixed oils, is used in medicine, and also in the arts and manufactures. “ Gallipoli
oil ” is largely employed in Turkey-red dyeing, and for making special kinds of soap. Sardines are
preserved in olive-oil.
260. — ORANGE SAUCE. (Fr. — Sauce au Jus
d’Orange.)
Ingredients. — I orange, pint Espagnole sauce, \ pint stock, or
roast meat gravy, lemon juice, red currant jelly, salt, pepper.
Method. — Peel an orange thinly, and cut the peel into strips (julienne
fashion), put them in a stewpan with sufficient water to cover, boil
for 5 minutes, and drain in a sieve. Put in a stewpan, the Espagnole
sauce, stock, and \ the juice of the orange. Allow all to reduce to
half its quantity. Add the orange peel, a teaspoonful of lemon-juice,
and a teaspoonful of red currant jelly, season with pepper and salt,
boil up again, and serve with roast wild duck, wild boar, or other
game.
Time. — 2 5 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, iock, without the stock.
261. — ORANGE SAUCE. (Fr. — Sauce a l’Orange.)
(For Roast Wild Duck, Wild Fowl, Widgeon,
Veal, etc.)
Ingredients. — \ a gill of brown sauce, 1 gill gravy, juice of an
orange, salt and pepper, the end of an orange finely shredded.
Mix the brown sauce with the meat gravy; to this add the juice of
the orange, and boil. Skim, and season with salt and pepper. Stir in
the rind of \ an orange, boil again, and serve.
RECIPES FOR BROWN SAUCES
247
Time. — 10 minutes. Average Cost, 4d.
Note. — If liked, a small shallot finely-chopped, and -J- a glass of port wine
or claret can be added, and cooked with the above sance ; this is considered
an improvement.
262. — ORANGE SAUCE. (Fr. — Sauce Bigarade.)
Ingredients. — 1 Seville orange, \ a pint Espagnole sauce, -J- a pint of
good stock, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, 1 glass of port wine, cayenne,
salt.
Method. — Remove the rind from half the orange, and cut it in very
thin shreds. Boil these in water for 5 minutes. Put the sauce and
stock into a stewpan with the juice of \ the orange, and reduce to half
quantity. Strain, add all the other ingredients, boil, skim, add the
shreds of orange rind, and serve.
Timo. — 25 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, is. qd.
263. — PARISIAN SAUCE. (Fr. — Sauce Parisienne.)
Ingredients. — h a pint of brown sauce, 1 oz. of butter, J'of an oz. of
meat glaze, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, \ a teaspoonful of finely-
chopped parsley, 2 shallots, very fine!)' chopped, salt and pepper.
Method. — Heat the sauce, add the meat glaze, lemon-juice, parsley
and shallots, and simmer gently for 15 minutes. Season to taste,
whisk in the butter bit by bit, then serve as an accompaniment to
steaks or fillets of beef.
Time, — About | an hour. Average Cost, 8d.
264. — PEPPER SAUCE. (Fr. — Sauce Foivrade.)
Ingredients. — f of a pint of Espagnole sauce, ^ an oz. of butter, -J- a
small carrot, \ a small onion, 18 peppercorns, 1 bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme,
2 cloves, \ an oz. of raw ham.
Me hod.- -Mix the onion and carrot, cut the ham into small pieces ;
fry in the butter for 3 minutes, and add all the other ingredients.
Skim, boil for 10 minutes, strain, and serve.
Time. — From 15 to 20 minutes. Average Cost, is. 2d.
265. — PIQUANTE SAUCE. (Fr .—Sauce Piquante.)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of brown sauce, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar,
1 tablespoonful of capers cut in two, 1 tablespoonful of gherkin coarsely
chopped, 1 small onion finely chopped, salt and pepper.
Method. — Put the onion and vinegar into a small saucepan, let
them boil until considerably reduced, then add the brown sauce,
capers, gherkin, salt and pepper if necessary, bring to the boil, simmer
for 5 minutes, and serve.
Time. — About \ an hour. Average Cost, yd.
248 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
266. -PIQUANT SAUCE FOR BOILED VEAL.
{Fr. — Sauce Piquante.) (Economical.)
Ingredients. — £ a pint of fhe liquor in which the meat has been boiled,
1 tablespoonful of vinegar, 1 dessertspoonful of Harvey or other similar
sauce, 1 dessertspoonful of mushroom ketchup, 1 small carrot, 1 small
onion, 1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the onion and carrot into small pieces, melt the butter
in a small saucepan, add the flour and vegetables, and fry them until
brown. Now put in the vinegar, stir and boil until considerably
reduced, then add the stock, Harvey sauce, ketchup, and seasoning
if necessary, boil, strain, and use.
Time. — 25 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, 2^d. to 3d.
267. — PORT WINE SAUCE. {Fr. — Sauce au Vin
d'Oporto.) (For Venison, etc.)
Ingredients. — J of a pint of gravy from roast venison or mutton, a
glass of port wine, 1 teaspoonful of red-currant jelly, a few drops of
lemon-juice.
Method. — Put all the above into a small saucepan, bring to the boil,
and serve.
Time. — 7 or 8 minutes. Average Cost, qd. without the gravy.
268. — PORT WINE SAUCE. {Fr.— Sauce au Vin
d’Oporto.) (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — \ of a pint of Espagnole sauce, 1 glass of port wine,
1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1 teaspoonful of red currant jelly.
Method. — Mix all the ingredients together in a saucepan, bring to the
boil, and serve.
Time. — 7 or 8 minutes. Average Cost, 8d.
269. — REFORM SAUCE. {Fr. — Sauce Reforme.)
Ingredients. — 4 a pint of Pepper sauce, No. 264, 1 glass of port wine
1 tablespoonful of red currant jelly, cayenne pepper to taste.
Method. — Make the sauce as directed, then add to it the rest of the
ingredients, simmer for 10 minutes, strain, and serve.
Time. — About 1 hour altogether. Average Cost, is. 6d.
270. — REGENCE SAUCE. {Fr. — Sauce Regence.)
Ingredients. — 2 small shallots, \ an oz. of butter, 1 gill of fish stock
(prepared with the fish bones and some vegetables to flavour), a gill
of Marsala wine, i£ gills of Espagnole sauce, parsley, 1, bay-leaf,
t sprig of thyme, 1 teaspoonful of horseradish mustard, 1 tablespoonful
of meat glaze, 1 dessertspoonful of truffle trimmings, seasoning.
RECIPES FOR BROWN SAUCES
249
Method. — Peel the shallots and chop finely, fry them a golden-brown
in the butter, add the fish stock and the wine, cover, and let these
reduce to half the original quantity. Now add a few sprigs of parsley,
the bay -leaf, thyme, and the Espagnole sauce, let it simmer gently
for 20 minutes, then strain, and pass the sauce through a tammy-cloth.
When required for table, stir in the horseradish mustard and the meat
glaze — the latter should be incorporated in little bits. Season to
taste, stir in the truffles, finely chopped, re-heat slowly, and use as
directed.
Time. — 30-40 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d.
271. — REMOULADE SAUCE. (Fr. — Sauce Remou-
lade.)
See recipe for Salad Dressing, page 230.
2 72. — ROBERT SAUCE (Brown Onion). ( Fr . — Sauce
Robert.) (For Goose, Pork, Steak, Cut-
lets.)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of Espagnole sauce, -} a glass of white wine,
£ an oz. of butter, \ a small onion, \ a teaspoonful of castor sugar,
1 saltspoonful of dry mustard.
Method. — Mince the onion and fry it brown in the butter, add the
mustard and wine, reduce a little. Add the sauce, cook for 10 minutes,
season, and strain.
Time. — -25 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, about iod.
273. — ROBERT SAUCE (for Pork Cutlets.) (Fr.—
Sauce Robert.) (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — f- of a pint of brown stock, 1 oz. of butter, f of an oz. of
flour, 1 dessertspoonful of vinegar, 1 teaspoonful of made mustard,
2 medium-sized onions, salt and pepper.
Method. — Chop the onions coarsely and fry them brown in the butter.
Sprinkle in the flour, stir and cook until brown, then add the stock,
vinegar, pepper and salt, bring to the boil and simmer gently for |-
an hour. Add the mustard a few minutes before serving. Strain,
and use as required.
Time. — 40 to 50 minutes. Average Cost, about yd.
274. — SAGE AND ONION SAUCE. (Fr. — Sauce aux
Sauge). (For Roast Pork.)
Ingredients. — f of a pint of brown stock, 2 medium-sized onions,
250
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
2 ozs. of freshly-made breadcrumbs, i £ ozs. of butter or sweet dripping,
1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped sage, salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the onions into rather small dice. Melt the butter or
fat, put in the onions, and fry slowly until brown. Add the stock and
boil up, then put the sage, breadcrumbs, salt and pepper, simmer for
io minutes, and serve.
Time. — About 40 minutes. Average Cost, yd.
Sage (Fr. s auge). — This “sweet herb” is a native of the countries bordering upon the Mediter-
ranean, but has long been cultivated in English gardens. There are several varieties of sage, the
green, the red, the small-leaved, and the broad-leaved balsamic. Its leaves and tender tops are
used for stuffings and sauces, the red kind being the best for that purpose, and next to it the green
variety. An infusion, prepared from the dried leaves and shoots of the sage, called sage tea , is used
as ail astringent and tonic medicine.
275. — SALMIS SAUCE. ( Fr . — Sauce Salmis.)
Ingredients. — 1 teaspoonful red currant jelly, f a pint of Espagnole
sauce, 1 gill of game stock (made from the carcass of cooked game)
2 shallots chopped finely, 1 bay-leaf, 1 sprig of thyme, a few mushroom
trimmings, 1 glass of port, 1 tablespoonful of sweet oil.
Method.— Put the oil in a stewpan, and fry the shallots a golden
colour, add the bay-leaf, thyme, mushroom trimmings and port wine,
cover the stewpan and cook for 5 minutes. Add the stock and sauce,
stir well, simmer for 10 minutes, and remove the scum. Pass the
sauce through a tammy-cloth, season, add red currant jelly, warm up,
and serve.
Time. — From 35 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, is. 2d.
276. — SHALLOT SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Echalote.)
Ingredients. — of a pint of good brown gravy, No. 6, \ an oz. of
butter, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, \ a teaspoonful of chopped parsley,
6 shallots finely-chopped.
Method. — Melt the butter, fry the shallots until lightly browned,
and add the hot gravy and the rest of the ingredients. Simmer gently
for 10 minutes, and serve.
Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, 2^d., in addition to the
stock.
277. — SHARP SAUCE. (Fr. — Sauce Piquante.)
Ingredients. — 4 shallots chopped finely, 3 gherkins chopped, 1 table-
spoonful of chopped capers, 1 gill of vinegar, 1 bay-leaf, 1 sprig of
thyme, f of a pint of Espagnole sauce.
Method. — Put the shallots in a stewpan with the vinegar, bay-leaf,
and thyme, cover, and reduce to half quantity. Strain into another
stewpan, add the gherkins, capers, and sauce, boil for a few minutes.
Time. — From 20 to 25 minutes. Average Cost, is. 2d.
RECIPES FOR BROWN SAUCES
25 i
278. — SORREL SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce 1’Oseille.) (For
Boiled or Braised Fowls.)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of good gravy, No. 6, a small handful of sorrel.
Method. — Wash and pick the sorrel, cover it with cold water, bring
to the boil, cook for a few minutes, and drain well. Have the gravy
ready in a saucepan. Chop the sorrel finely, add it to the gravy, and
serve.
Time. — 15 to 20 minutes. Average Cost, 3d.
Sorrel (Fr. surelle).—^' The Romans cultivated the sorrel, which is a native of Italy and France,
and ate its acrid leaves, stewed with mustard, and seasoned with oil and vinegar. In French cookery,
sorrel is largely used, both as a salad and for culinary purposes. Although the leaves are both whole-
some and pleasant to the taste, sorrel finds little favour with English cooks. There are two species of this
plant, but in England they are scarcely grown as a vegetable. In most parts of Britain sorrel grows
wild in the grass meadows. Tartaric acid, tannic acid, and binoxalate of potash are constituents of
sorrel, and impart to it its characteristic acid taste.
279. — SPANISH SAUCE. (Fr. — Sauce Espangole.)
See Espagnole Sauce.
280. — TEXAS SAUCE. (Fr. — Sauce a la Texas.)
Ingredients. — f of a pint of curry sauce, No. 241, 1 teaspoonful of
lemon-juice, \ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, a good pinch
of saffron, 1 oz. of butter.
Method. — Make the curry sauce as directed, and just before serving
add the lemon-juice, parsley, saffron, and lastly the butter, which should
be whisked in gradually in small pieces, to prevent it oiling.
Time. — 45 to 50 minutes. Average Cost, 2d., in addition to the curry
sauce.
281. — TOMATO SAUCE. (Fr. — Sauce Tomate.)
Ingredients.— 1 lb. of tomatoes, 2 shallots, 1 bay-leaf, 1 sprig of thyme
10 peppercorns, 1 oz. of butter, 2 ozs. of lean ham, i tablespoonful of
vinegar.
Method. — Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the ham Cut small, and
the shallots chopped. Cook over the fire, but do not brown. Now
add the seasoning, herbs, peppercorns, and tomatoes sliced, stir al-
together, and boil for about 20 minutes, or until well reduced. Pass
the sauce through a tammy-cloth, warm up, season, and serve.
Time. — From 30 to 35 minutes. Average Cost, ~d. to 8d.
The Tomato, or Love Apple (Fr. Tomate), is a native of South America, but was introduced into
Europe in the sixteenth century. It is successfully cultivated in warm or temperate climates, and
thrives especially in southern Europe ; it is extensively grown in England. The fruit is eaten raw,
*or cooked in various ways, and is also used as an ingredient in salads, and as a sauce. In its green
state it is made into pickle. Reference is made to the tomato as the “ Love apple,” by the late Charles
Dickens, in the celebrated trial of Bardell v. Pickwick, in his Pickwick Papers.
282. — TOMATO SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Tomate.)
(Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of tomatoes, £ of a pint of good stock, 1 small
252
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
onion sliced, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), I oz. of
butter, % an oz. of flour, sugar, salt and pepper.
Method. — Halve the tomatoes, squeeze out the juice, strain and
put it aside. Put the prepared tomatoes into a stewpan, add the
stock, onion, bouquet-garni, and a little salt and pepper, simmer very
gently for i hour, then pass through a fine sieve. Melt the butter,
stir in the flour, cook for 2 or 3 minutes, then add the tomato-pulp
and as much of the strained tomato-juice as may be necessary to
obtain the desired consistency. Add a pinch of sugar, season to taste
make thoroughly hot, and serve.
Time. — About i|- hours. Average Cost, 8d. to iod., in addition to the
stock.
283. — TRUFFLE SAUCE. {Fr.— Sauce aux Truffes.)
Ingredients. — 3 large truffles, 1 gill of brown sauce, 1 gill of tomato
sauce, 1 teaspoonful of anchovy essence, \ an oz. of fresh butter, about
1 glass of sherry.
Method. — Chop the truffles finely, put them in a small stewpan, cover
with sherry, add 1 gill of brown sauce and x gill of tomato sauce,
boil for a few minutes, finish with a teaspoonful of anchovy essence
and the fresh butter.
Time. — From 15 to 20 minutes. Average Cost, is. to is. 2d.
284. — TURTLE SAUCE. {Fr. — Sauce Tortue.)
Ingredients. — 1£ pints of Espagnole sauce, No. 244, made from turtle
stock, 1 glass of sherry, 1 teaspoonful of anchovy essence, 1 dessert-
spoonful of lemon-juice, £ a teaspoonful of chopped lemon rind, 2
shallots finely chopped. Cayenne pepper to taste.
Method. — Put all the ingredients into a saucepan, and simmer until
considerably reduced, then strain, and serve.
Time. — About \ an hour. Average Cost, 6d. to Sd., without the turtle
stock broth.
285. — VENISON SAUCE. {Fr. — Sauce Chevreuil.)
Ingredients. — 1 small onion, 1 oz. of lean ham, 1 oz. of butter, \ a gill
of vinegar, 12 crushed peppercorns, 1 bay-leaf, \ a small minced carrot,
a little thyme and chopped parsley, \ a pint of Espagnole sauce,
1 glass of port wine, 1 dessertspoonful of red currant jelly.
Method. — Mince the onion and the ham, fry them in butter, then
add the vinegar, peppercorns, bay-leaf, carrot, and herbs. Cover the
saucepan and simmer for 10 minutes. Then add the sauce, wine, and
jelly. Cook for 10 minutes, skim and strain. Re-heat, season, and
serve.
Time. — From 30 to 35 minutes. Average Cost, is. 3d.
RECIPES FOR FISH SAUCES
253
286. — VENISON SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Chevreuil.)
(Another Method.)
Ingredients. — \ pint brown sauce No. 164, 1 dessertspoonful of red
currant jelly, \ a glass of port wine, the juice of \ a lemon, salt,
pepper, 1 dessertspoonful of meat glaze or Lemco.
Method. — Put all the ingredients except the glaze into a pan and
simmer till the jelly is dissolved. Add the glaze, boil again, skim,
strain and serve.
Time. — 20 minutes. Average Cost, iod.
287. — WALNUT SAUCE.
Ingredients. — f of a pint of stock, 1 J- ozs. of butter, 1 \ ozs. of flour,
2 small onions sliced, 4 firm pickled walnuts, 1 tablespoonful of walnut
vinegar, salt and pepper.
Method. — Melt the butter in a stewpan, fry the onion until lightly-
browned, then sprinkle in the flour. Fry slowly until the flour acquires
a nut-brown colour, then add the stock, and simmer gently for 20
minutes. Strain and return to the stewpan, season to taste, add the
vinegar and the walnuts, previously cut into dice. Serve with braised
mutton or any dish requiring a sharp sauce.
Time. — About 40 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. or yd.
Fish Sauces.
288. — ANCHOVY SAUCE. (Fr.-^Sauce d’Anchois.)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of Bechamel sauce, No. 178, 1 teaspoonful of
anchovy essence.
Method. — Make the sauce hot in a small stewpan, add the anchovy
essence, and use as required.
Time. — From 5 to 10 minutes. Average Cost, about 5d.
289. — ANCHOVY SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce d’Anchois.)
(Inexpensive.)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of melted butter, No. 202, 1 teaspoonful of
anchovy essence.
Method. — Make the melted butter, add to it the anchovy essence,
and use as required.
Time. — To make the melted butter, 15 minutes. Average Cost, ibd
per i pint.
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
254
290. — ANCHOVY SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce d’Anchois.)
(Another Method.)
Ingredients. — \ of a pint of milk, \ of a pint of fish stock or water,
1 oz. of butter, f of an oz. of flour, 1 teaspoonful of anchovy essence.
Method. — Melt the butter in a stewpan, stir inthe flour, and cook for
5 or 6 minutes. Add the milk and stock, stir until it boils, simmer for
2 or 3 minutes, then add the anchovy essence, and use as required.
Time. — 15 to 20 minutes. Average Cost, 2d.
291. — AURORA SAUCE. (Fr. — Sauce a l’Aurore.)
(For Soles, Trout, etc.)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of Bechamel sauce, No. 178, 1 tablesjioonful of
cream, 1 dessertspoonful of tarragon vinegar, or lemon-juice, 1 oz. of
butter, the spawn of a lobster, salt, cayenne.
Method. — Pound the lobster spawn and butter well together, and rub
through a fine hair sieve. Make the Bechamel hot in a saucepan, put
in the spawn, cream, vinegar and seasoning, and stir at the side of the
fire until quite hot, but without boiling.
Time. —30 to 35 minutes. Average Cost. 5d. to 6d., without the lobster
spawn.
292. — CARDINAL SAUCE. (Fr. — Sauce Cardinal.)
Ingredients. — | a pint of white sauce, No. 222, 2 tablespoonfuls of
cream, 1 dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, \ an oz. of lobster coral finely-
chopped, nutmeg, salt and pepper.
Method. — Make the white sauce as directed, add the lobster coral and
nutmeg, salt and pepper to taste. Simmer gently for 15 minutes, then
pass through a fine strainer or tammy cloth. Re-heat, add the cream
and lemon-juice, and use as required.
Time. — About \ an hour. Average Cost, 3d. to 6d., exclusive of the coral.
293. — COCKLE SAUCE. (Fr. — Sauce aux Mouks.)
Ingredients. — 4 °* a pint °f cooked cockles, 1 pint of melted butter,
No. 228, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, §alt and pepper.
Method. — Prepare and cook the cockles in the usual way, and re-
move them from the shells. Have the melted butter ready boiling,
add the cockles and lemon-juice, season to taste, and serve as an accom-
paniment to cod or other fish.
Time. — From 20 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, 3d.
294. — CODFISH, SAUCE.
Ingredients. — 4 of a pint of brown sauce, No. 234, J of a pint of tomato
sauce, No. 281, 1 glass of Marsala, 2 tablespoonfuls of stock, 1 oz. of
ham shredded, f of an oz. of butter, 1 onion chopped, 4 button mush-
rooms chopped, 1 clove, 1 bay-leaf, salt and pepper.
RECIPES FOR FISH SAUCES
255
Method. — Melt the butter, fry the onion until lightly browned, then
add the Marsala, stock, ham, mushrooms, clove and bay-leaf. Cover
closely, cook gently until reduced to one-half, then add the brown
and tomato sauces. Continue to cook slowly for 10 minutes longer,
then pass the whole through a fine sieve or tammy cloth. Re-lieat,
season to taste, and use as required.
Time. — From 40 to 50 minutes. Average Cost, is.
295. — CRAB SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce de Crabe.)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of white sauce, No. 222, 1 medium-sized crab,
1 teaspoonful of anchovy essence, a few drops of lemon-juice, cayenne.
Method. — The fish stock required for the white sauce may be obtained
by simmering the crab shell (previously made clean and broken into
small pieces) in milk and water. Cut the crab in small pieces, add it
with the anchovy essence, lemon-juice, and cayenne to the hot sauce,
draw the saucepan aside for a few minutes, then serve.
Time. — Altogether about 40 minutes. Average Cost, gd. to is.
296. — EEL SAUCE. ( Fr . — Sauce Anguille.)
Ingredients. — J of a pint of stock, 1 lb. of eels, 2 ozs. of lean ham,
1 onion sliced, a few thin slices of carrot, 1 bay-leaf, 6 peppercorns,
salt and pepper.
Method. — Wash the eel and cut it into short lengths. Cut the ham
into small pieces. Place both eel and ham in a stewpan, add the stock,
onion, carrot, ba.y-leaf, and peppercorns, and season to taste. Simmer
gently for about -1- an hour, then strain, and use as required.
Time. — From 35 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, is. 3d.
297. — EGG SAUCE. ( Fr . — Sauce aux Oeufs.) (For
Boiled Fish and Boiled Fowl.)
Ingredients. — f- of a pint of melted butter, No. 202, 1 teaspoonful of
lemon-juice, salt and pepper, 2 hard-boiled eggs.
Method. — Boil the eggs until quite hard (15 minutes), and put them
into cold water for \ an hour. Remove the shells, cut the whites in
small dice, and rub the yolks through a wire sieve. Have the melted
butter boiling, stir in the whites of egg, add salt, pepper, and lemon-
juice, and use as required. The sauce is usually poured over the fish,
and the sieved >olks of egg sprinkled on the top as a garnish. When
the sauce is served separately, the yolks should be added to it with the
whites.
Time. — 1 houi Average Cost, 5d. Sufficient for 3 or 4 lb. of fish.
298. —EGG SAUCE. ( Fr . — Sauce aux Oeufs.) (An-
other Method.)
Ingredients. — a pint of milk, 1 oz. of butter, £ of an oz. of flour,
1 raw egg, 1 hard-boiled egg, salt and pepper.
256
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Melt the butter in a stewpan, stir in the flour, and cook for
3 or 4 minutes, then add the milk and stir until it boils. Cut the hard
boiled egg into dice (or rub the yolk through a wire sieve if needed to
decorate the fish), add it, together with any necessary seasoning, to the
sauce. Beat the yolk of the raw egg slightly, add to it gradually 2 or 3
tablespoonfuls of the sauce, and when thoroughly mixed stir into the
remainder of the sauce and cook very gently for 2 or 3 minutes. It
must not boil, or it will curdle.
Tims. — 25 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, 4d.
299. - -FENNEL SAUCE. (Fr. — Sauce Fenouil.)
Ingredients. — § a pint of melted butter, No. 202, 2 tablespoonfuls of
chopped fennel.
Method. — Make the melted butter as directed. Wash the fennel well,
pick it from the stalks, put it into boiling water, and boil until tender.
Drain well, chop finely, and add it to the boiling sauce. Use as re-
quired.
Time. — Altogether 35 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, 3d. to 4d. for this
quantity.
Fennel (Fr. fenouil). — This fragrant and elegant plant is found growing wild, chiefly on chalky
soils. It is very generally cultivated in gardens. The leaves are finely divided and the flowers,
which are small, are of a yellow colour. It grows to the height of about 3 feet ; a larger variety,
Giant Fennel , sometimes attains the height of 15 feet. Fennel leaves are served with fish either whole
or as a sauce. The seeds are used in medicine as a carminative, and oil of fennel is obtained from
Italian fennel, which is cultivated in the south of Europe.
300. — GENEVA SAUCE. ( Fr . — Sauce Genevoise.)
Ingredients. — |- of a pint of fish stock, i glass of sherry or Madeira
wine, 2 ozs. of butter, i£ ozs. of flour, i onion sliced, 2 mushrooms
sliced, \ a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, + a teaspoonful of anchovy-
essence, salt and pepper.
Method. — Melt the butter in a stewpan, by the onion until slightlv
browned, add the mushrooms, stir in the flour, and cook the preparation
until it acquires a nut-brown colour. Now add the stock, wine, lemon-
juice, anchovv-essence, salt and pepper to taste. Simmer gently for
about 20 minutes, pass through a fine strainer or tammy cloth, re-heat,
and use as required.
Time. — From 4c to 50 minutes. Average Cost, 9d.
301. — GENOISE SAUCE. ( Fr . — Sauce Genoise.)
(For Fish.)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of Espagnole sauce, 1 pint of fish stock, 1 gill
of claret, a small onion, 1 clove of garlic, 2 cloves, 2 shallots, 1 bay-
leaf, a few sprigs of parsley, 1 sprig of thyme, 2 ozs. of anchovy butter,
pepper, salt, one pinch of castor sugar.
RECIPES FOR FISH SAUCES
257
Method. — Put some fish bones in a stewpan, together with the fish
stock or water, the claret, sliced onion, herbs, etc., cover, and reduce
well. Add the Espagnole sauce, boil up, and strain through a fine
sieve or tammy-cloth. Return the sauce to a stewpan, season with
a little pepper and a pinch of sugar, and whisk in the anchovy butter.
Keep hot, but do not let the sauce boil again. Serve separately with
boiled fish, or pour over braised fish.
Time. — About 40 minutes. Average Cost, is. 4d.
302. — GENOISE SAUCE. (Fr. — Sauce Genoise.)
(Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 1 sliced onion, 1 shallot, \ a clove of garlic, 1 oz. of butter,
bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 1 teaspoonful anchovy
essence, 1 glass of red burgundy, 1 pint of Espagnole sauce, a pinch of
mignonette pepper.
Method. — Melt the butter in a stewpan, fry the onion, shallot, garlic,
and bouquet, add the wine and simmer until the onion is cooked. Then
add the sauce, simmer for 10 minutes, and pass through a fine strainer.
Re-heat, add the anchovy essence and the pepper.
Time. — From 30 to 35 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. to is. 9d.
303. - GRATIN SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Gratin.)
Ingredients. — ^ a pint of Espagnole sauce, 1 glass of sherry, \ an oz.
of glaze, 1 tablespoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 5 or 6 button mush-
rooms (fresh if possible), 2 shallots or 1 very small onion finely-chopped,
1 teaspoonful of anchovy essence.
Method. — Cut the mushrooms into small pieces, put them into a sauce-
pan with the sherry, glaze, parsley, and shallots, and simmer until
considerably reduced. Add the sauce and anchovy essence, cook for
5 minutes, and serve.
Time. — From 25 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, is. qd. to is. 6d.
304. — HOLLANDAISE SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Hollan-
daise.) (For Fish and certain Vegetables.)
Ingredients. — 1 gill of white sauce, :j- of a gill of good white stock,
1 dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, 2 yolks of eggs, 1 oz. of butter, salt
and pepper.
Method. — Make the white sauce hot, add the stock and yolks of eggs
well mixed together, and whisk by the side of the fire until the sauce
thickens, but it must not be allowed to boil. Add the lemon-juice,
and the butter bit by bit, season to taste, and pass through a line
strainer or tammy-cloth. Re-heat, and use as required.
IC
25S
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Time. — 15 minutes. Average Cost, yd.
305. -MATELOTE SAUCE. (Fr.— : Sauce Matelote.)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of Espagnole sauce, No. 244, } of a pint of
fish stock, No, 5, \ a glass of Burgundy, £ of an oz. of butter, 1
tablespoonful of mushroom liquor, a few drops of lemon-juice, \ a small
carrot, 1 small onion, salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the carrot and onion into very small pieces. Melt the
butter in a saucepan, put in the vegetables and fry until brown. Add
the mushroom liquor, fish stock and wine, simmer until reduced one-
half, then add the Espagnole, Stir until it boils, then strain or tammy.
Re-heat, add the lemon-juice, salt and pepper, and use as required.
Time. — From 30 to 35 minutes. Average Cost, About is. 3d.
Note. — A simple form of this sauce was originally made by the French sailor
(matelot) as a relish to the fish he caught and ate. In some cases, cider and
perry were substituted for the wine. The Norman matelots were very
celebrated.
306. — MOUSSELINE SAUCE FOR FISH. (Fr.—
Sauce Mousseline pour Poissons.)
Ingredients.— A good handful of spinach or watercress, 1 tablespoonful
of cream, 1 dessertspoonful of tarragon vinegar, the yolks of 2 eggs,
salt and pepper.
Method,— Pick and wash the spinach, pound it well in a mortar,
and rub through a fine sieve. Put this puree, cream, vinegar, salt,
pepper and yolks of eggs into a saucepan, whisk briskly over the fire
until it becomes a light froth, then serve.
Time.— From 25 to 35 minutes. Average Cost, about 3d.
307. — MOUSSELINE SAUCE (Cold). (Fr. — Sauce
Mousseline Froide.) (For Fish.)
Ingredients. — A good handful of spinach, -J- of a pint of cream, -J- of a
pint of mayonnaise sauce, No. 201.
Method. — Prepare the puree of spinach as in the preceding recipe.
Whip the cream stiffly, and add to it lightly the mayonnaise sauce
and the puree. Serve with salmon or other fish.
Time. — About | an hour. Average Cost, sd.
308. — MUSTARD SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Moutarde.)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of water, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, 2 ozs- of
RECIPES FOR FISH SAUCES
259
butter, i| ozs. of flour, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1 teaspoonful
of French mustard, 1 teaspoonful of English mustard.
Method. — Melt the butter in a small stewpan, stir in the flour, and
cook for a few minutes, then add the water, and stir until it boils.
The mustard must be very thick, otherwise more than 2 teaspoonfuls
will be required. Strain the lemon-juice on to the mustard, mix well
together, then pour it into the sauce, and stir until it boils. Add the
cream, and use as required.
Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, about 5d.
309. — MUSTARD SAUCE. {Ft.— Sauce Moutarde.)
(For Fresh Herrings.)
Ingredients.— 1 teaspoonful of mustard, 1 dessertspoonful of flour,
1 oz. of butter, 1 gill of boiling water, x teaspoonful of vinegar.
Method. — Mix the flour and mustard, knead them well with the
butter, stir in the boiling water, turn into a stewpan, and boil for 5
minutes. Add the vinegar, and serve.
Time, 10 minutes. Average Cost, 2d.
310. — OYSTER SAUCE. (Fr. — Sauce aux Huitres.)
Ingredients. — 12 sauce oysters, 1 oz. of butter, a teaspoonful of lemon-
juice, the yolk of 1 egg, of a pint of Bechamel sauce.
Method. — Open the oysters, remove the beards, and put them with
their liquor and the butter in a small saucepan. Cover with a lid,
and cook for 4 minutes (they must not be allowed to boil), then drain
well, and halve or quarter them. Reduce the liquor to half its
original quantity, then strain, and return to the saucepan. Add the
Bechamel sauce, when hot, bind with the yolk of egg, then put in the
oysters and lemon-juice. Stir until the oysters are quite hot, season
with a pinch of salt and pepper if ne'cessary, and serve in a hot sauce boat.
Time. — From 20 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, is. 2d., in addition to
the Bechamel sauce.
31 1. — PARSLEY SAUCE FOR FISH. (F/. — Sauce de
Persil.)
Ingredients. — } a pint of fish stock, No. 5, or water, 1 oz. of butter,
-f of a oz. of flour, 1 tablespoonful of finely-chopped parsley, salt and
pepper.
Method. — Melt the butter in a saucepan, stir in the flour, cook for 2
or 3 minutes, then add the stock and stir until it boils. Simmer for
a few minutes, then season to taste, add the parsley, and serve. If
the parsley is allowed to boil in the sauce it will lose some of its green
colour.
Time, — 20 to 25 minutes. Average Cost. ibd. per \ pint.
26o
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
312. — ROE SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Laitence.)
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of cod’s roe (or any other kind preferred), 1 tea-
spoonful of made mustard, 1 teaspoonful of anchovy sauce, 1 dessert-
spoonful of vinegar, \ a pint of melted butter, salt and pepper.
Method. — Cook the roe in a little water; when cool, remove any skin
there may be, and bruise the roe with the back of a wooden spoon.
Add the mustard, anchovy essence and vinegar, stir the whole into the
prepared melted butter, and season to taste. Simmer gently for 15
minutes, then strain and serve.
Time. — About \ an hour. Average Cost, 4d. to qd.
313. — SARDINE SAUCE. (Fr. — Sauce aux Sardines.)
Ingredients. — 1 pint of good stock, 1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, 6
large sardines, the thin rind of 1 lemon, 1 shallot, 1 bay-leaf, nutmeg,
salt and pepper.
Method. — Remove and preserve the bones, chop the sardines rather
coarsely. Melt the butter, add the flour, stir and cook gently for a
few minutes, then add the stock. Bring to the boil, add the fish bones,
lemon-rind, shallot, bay-leaf, a good pinch of nutmeg, and a seasoning
of salt and pepper. Simmer gently for 15 minutes, then strain over
the chopped sardines, and serve as an accompaniment to fish.
Time. — About \ an hour. Average Cost, is.
314. — SHRIMP SAUCE. (Fr. — Sauce aux Crevettes.)
Ingredients.— £ a pint of white sauce, £ of a pint of picked shrimps,
1 teaspoonful of anchovy essence, a few drops of lemon-juice, cayenne.
Method. — The fish stock required for the white sauce may be obtained
by simmering the shrimp shells in milk and water. Add the shrimps,
anchovy essence, lemon-juice and cayenne to the hot sauce. Cover the
saucepan, and let it stand for a few minutes where the contents cannot
boil, then serve.
Time. — Altogether about 40 minutes. Average CostSd.
315. — WHITE WINE SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce au Vin
Blanc.) (For Fish, etc.)
Ingredients. — | pint fish stock, ^ pint of white stock, \ gill of white
wine (chablis), | of an oz. of flour, 2 ozs. of butter, the yolks of 2 eggs,
^ a lemon, salt and white pepper.
Method. — If the sauce is required for dressed fish the fish should be
cooked in a mirepoix, or foundation preparation, of sliced onion,
parsley, and savoury herbs, as is usual, with the appropriate quantity
of moisture — the liquor is strained and used in the sauce. Melt 1 oz.
FRUIT SAUCES AND SWEET SAUCES
261
of butter, stir in the flour and cook a little, then dilute with stock,
fish liquor and wine, and cook for 15 minutes. Add, continuously
stirring, the remainder of the butter bit by bit, also the yolks of eggs,
one at a time. Season with a little salt and a pinch of mignonette or
white pepper, and add a few drops of lemon-juice, strain through a
tammy-cloth or napkin, and use as sauce for dressed fish, etc.
Mostly served with soles, salmon, trout, and whiting.
Time. — About \ an hour. Average Cost, is.
Fruit Sauces and Sweet Sauces.
316. — APPLE SAUCE. (Fr. — Sauce aux Pommes.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of apples, i j- ozs. of sugar (or to taste), 1 oz. of
butter, a little water if necessary.
Method. — Peel, core and slice the apples, put them into a saucepan
with the sugar, butter, and a very little water, and cook them until
tender. Add more sugar if necessary, before serving.
Time. — 30 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, 4d. to 3d.
317. --APRICOT SAUCE. {Fr. — Sauce a l’Abricot.)
Ingredients. — 3 ozs. of apricot marmalade or jam, 1 pint of water,
\ glass of sherry, 1 oz. of sugar, 1 teaspoonful of arrowroot.
Method. — Put the water, sugar, and jam into a saucepan, and boil
up. Mix the sherry and arrowroot together, pour the mixture into
the saucepan, stir until it thickens, and serve.
Time. — 15 to 20 minutes. Average Cost, 4d. to 5d. for this quantity.
318. — ARROWROOT SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Maranta.)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of boiling water, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice,
1 heaping dessertspoonful of arrowroot, 1 good tablespoonful of castor
sugar, or to taste, nutmeg or cinnamon to flavour.
Method. — Blend the arrowroot smoothly with a little cold water,
pour over it the boiling water, stirring meanwhile. Turn into a sauce-
pan, add lemon-juice, sugar, and a good pinch of nutmeg or cinnamon,
and simmer for 3 or 4 minutes. This sauce may be served with a
variety of puddings, and the flavour varied by the addition of wine,
fruit syrup, etc.
Time. — About 8 minutes. Average Cost, 2d.
Arrowroot (Fr. Mocdamius) is obtained from the rootstocks of several species of plants of the
genus Maranta, principally from Maranta arundinacea. Brazilian arrowroot, or tapioca meal, and
Chinese arrowroot from other rhizomes ; Oswego arrowroot from Indian corn ; English arrowroot from
the potato; and Portland arrowroot, or sago, from the roots of Arum maculatum. That obtained
Irom the West Indies is esteemed the best. Arrowroot is prepared by well washing the roots when
dug up, and beating them into a pulp, which afterwards, by means of water, is separated from the
fibrous part. After being passed through a sieve and again washed, the mass is allowed to settle, the
sediment is dried in the sun, and it then becomes arrowroot. Potato starch is sometimes employed as
an adulterant, but may be detected by the fact that genuine arrowroot when formed into a jelly will
retain its firm consistency, while the adulterated article will become thin and resemble milk in the
course of twelve hours.
26.
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
319. — ARROWROOT SAUCE, CLEAR.
Ingredients. — \ a pint of cider (equal quantities of wine and
water, or any kind of fruit-juice may be substituted), 1 level dessert-
spoonful of arrowroot, sugar to taste, cinnamon, lemon-rind, or other
flavouring ingredient.
Method. — Simmer the flavouring ingredient in the cider for 10 minutes.
Mix the arrowroot smoothly with a little cold water, strain the cider
into it, stirring meanwhile, and replace in the saucepan. Add sugar
to taste, simmer gently for 4 or 5 minutes, then serve.
Time. — About 15 minutes. Average Cost, 5d. to 6d., when cider is used.
320. — BRANDY SAUCE. (Fr. — Sauce au Cognac.)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of water, a wineglass of brandy, 4 ozs. of loaf
sugar, an oz. of cornflour, nutmeg if liked.
Method. — Mix the cornflour smoothly with a little of the water, and
put the rest into a copper saucepan with the sugar. Boil and reduce
to a thin syrup, skimming occasionally, add the cornflour to the syrup,
stir until it boils, then add the brandy, and serve.
Time. — -About \ an hour. Average Cost, from 3-l-d. to 4d.
321. — BRANDY SAUCE. (Fr. — Sauce au Cognac.)
Ingredients.— J of a pint of milk, 1 teaspoonful of arrowroot or corn-
flour, 1 teaspoonful of castor sugar, the yolk of 1 egg, a wineglassful of
brandy.
Method. — Mix the arrowroot and milk smoothly together, pour into
a small saucepan, and stir until it boils, add the sugar, and draw
aside to cool slightly. Mix the brandy and egg together, pour the
mixture into the sauce, stir until it thickens, and serve.
Time. — About 15 minutes. Average Cost, 5cl. to 6d. for this quantity.
322. — CARAMEL SAUCE. (Fr. — Sauce au Caramel.)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of syrup, 1 oz. of loaf sugar, 1 dessertspoon-
ful of arrowroot, vanilla-essence, cream.
Method. — Brown the sugar in a copper saucepan, add the syrup,
and boil gently for 10 minutes. Blend the arrowroot smoothly with
a little cold cream, stir it into the sauce, simmer for 3 or 4 minutes
longer, then add vanilla-essence to taste. Strain, and use as required.
Time. — 25 minutes. Average Cost, qd.
323. — CHANTILLY APPLE SAUCE. (Fr. — Sauce
Chantilly.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of cooking apples, i|- ozs. of castor sugar, 1 oz. of
butter, i of a pint of cream.
FRUIT SAUCES AND SWEET SAUCES
263
Method. — Peel, core and slice the apples, and place them in a stewpan
with 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of cold water. Add the butter and sugar,
cook gently until quite tender, then pass the preparation through a
fine sieve. Whip the cream stiffly, stir it into the apple puree, and use
as required.
Time. — From 45 to 60 minutes. Average Cost, 8d.
324 — ■ CHAUDEAU SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Chaudeau.)
Ingredients. — 4. yolks of eggs, 1 wineglassful of sherry, 1 wineglassful
of water, 1 tablespoonful of castor sugar.
Method. — Put all the ingredients into a saucepan, and whisk them
by the side of the fire until thick and frothy, This sauce may be
served with plum pudding.
Time. — About 15 minutes, Average Cost, yd,
325. — CHERRY SAUCE. (Fr.—~ Sauce aux Cerises.)
Proceed the same as for venison sauce No. 386, adding ? ozs. of gla,c(s
cherries cut in halves or quarters,
326. — CHOCOLATE SAUCE. (Fr.~ Sauce au Choco-
lat.)
Ingredients. — §- of a pint of water, 1 tablespoonful of brandy, 1 tea*
spoonful of vanilla essence, 1 oz. of creme dc riz or rice flour, 2 ozs. of
castor sugar, 4 ozs. of grated chocolate.
Method. — Put the sugar, chocolate, and water into a saucepan, and
stir until it boils. Mix the creme de riz smoothly with a little cold
water, pour it into the saucepan and simmer for 5 minutes. Pass
through a tammy-cloth or fine strainer, add the brandy and vanilla, and
serve.
Time. — From 10 to 15 minutes. Average Cost, from 8d. to pd. for this
quantity.
327. — CHOCOLATE SAUCE. ( Fr . — Sauce au Choco-
lat.) (Economical.)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of milk, 3 ozs. of grated chocolate, 1 oz. of
sugar (or to taste), 1 teaspoonful of cornflour, 1 teaspoonful vanilla
essence.
Method. — Dissolve the chocolate and sugar in the hot milk, and
simmer for a few minutes. Mix the cornflour smoothly with a little milk
or water, pour it into the saucepan, stir and cook for 3 minutes, add
the vanilla essence, and serve.
Time. — About 15 minutes. Average Cost, 5d. to 9d.
264
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
328. — CITRON SAUCE. (Fr. — Sauce aux Citron.)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of boiling milk, 2 ozs. of castor sugar, \ an oz.
of cornflour, 2 yolks of eggs, the finely-chopped rind of \ a lemon.
Method. — Blend the yolks of the eggs and the cornflour together,
add the sugar and lemon-rind, and stir in the boiling milk. Whisk the
preparation over the fire until it becomes creamy, then use as re-
quired.
Time. — From 10 to 15 minutes. Average Cost, qd.
329. — COFFEE SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce au Cafe.)
Ingredients. — 2 ozs. of raw coffee berries, 1 dessertspoonful of arrow-
root or cornflour, 1 glass of brandy, sugar to taste, \ a pint of boiling
water.
Method. — Roast the coffee berries in a pan over a quick fire until
well-browned, then pound them in a mortar. Pour the boiling water
over the prepared coffee, let it stand for a few minutes, then strain it
into a saucepan. Blend the cornflour smoothly with the brandy,
stir it into the coffee, sweeten to taste, simmer gently for 5 minutes,
then serve.
Time.— About i an hour. Average Cost, 6d.
330. — CORNFLOUR SAUCE.
Ingredients. — \ a pint of milk, 1 dessertspoonful (level) of castor sugar,
1 dessertspoonful (level) of cornflour, the rind of one lemon.
Method. — Remove the outer skin of the lemon in extremely thin
shavings with a sharp knife, put them into the milk, and simmer for
5 minutes. Mix the cornflour smoothly with a little cold milk or water ;
strain the milk and add it to the cornflour, stirring all the time. Re-
turn to the saucepan, add the sugar, boil for 1 minute, and serve.
Time. — About 15 minutes. Average Cost, 2^d.
331. — CRANBERRY SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce aux Ai-
relles Rouge.) (For Roast Turkey, Fowl,
etc.)
Ingredients. — of a pint of cold water, 1 pint of cranberries, 2 ozs. of
castor sugar, 1 tablespoonful of red currant jelly, £ a glass of port
wine.
Method. — Wash the cranberries in cold water. Put them into a sauce-
pan with the water, and simmer gently for \ an hour, then add the
sugar, wine, and red currant jelly. Boil again, and strain. Serve either
hot or cold in a sauceboat or glass dish.
Time. — 35 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, 7 d. to 9d. for this quantity.
FRUIT SAUCES AND SWEET SAUCES 265
332. — CUSTARD SAUCE. (Fr. — Creme cuile.) (For
Puddings or Tarts.)
Ingredients. — 1 pint of milk, 2 eggs, 3 ozs. of castor sugar, 1 table-
spoonful of brandy, bay-leaf if liked.
Method. — Boil the milk and bay-leaf, add the sugar, and cool slightly.
Beat the eggs well, pour the milk on to them, and strain into a jug.
Have ready a saucepan of boiling water, in which to place the jug,
keep stirring until the mixture thickens, but do not allow it to boil,
or it will curdle. Stir in the brandy, and serve.
Time. — 25 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. to yd.
333. — FROTHY SAUCE. (Fr. — Creme fouettee.)
Ingredients. — 1 wineglassful of sherry, 1 tablespoonful of castor sugar,
1 egg, } of a pint of boiling milk.
Method. — Dissolve the sugar in the boiling milk, and let it cool
slightly. Beat the egg and sherry well together, add the hot milk and
mix well. Stand the basin in a stewpan of boiling water, whisk briskly
until the preparation thickens and becomes very frothy, and serve at
once.
Time.— From 15 to 20 minutes. Average Cost, qd. to 6d.
334. — GERMAN CUSTARD SAUCE. (Fr.— Creme cuite
a rAllemande.)
Ingredients. — The yolks of 2 eggs, 1 glass of sherry, 2 or 3 lumps of
sugar, the rind of ^ a lemon.
Method. — Rub the sugar on the lemon rind, then crush, and dissolve
in the wine. Put all the ingredients into a small saucepan, and whisk
briskly over a slow fire until it forms a thick froth, but take care that
it does not curdle. Serve at once.
Time. — From 10 to 15 minutes. Average Cost, 5d. to 6d.
335- — GINGER SAUCE. (Fr. — Sauce au Gingembre.)
Ingredients. — 1 teaspoontul of ground ginger, 4 tablespoonfuls of
castor sugar, 2 or 3 strips of lemon-rind, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-
juice, 2 tablespoontuls of brandy or wine, ^ a pint of water.
Method. — Put the ginger, sugar, lemon-rind and water into a stew-
pan, and simmer the ingredients gently for 15 minutes. Strain, return
to the stewpan, add the brandy and lemon-juice, re-heat, and serve.
Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, 5d. to 6d.
266
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
336.— GOOSEBERRY SAUCE. (Fr — Sauce aux
Groseilles.)
Ingredients. — 1 pint of green gooseberries, J of a pint of milk, 2 ozs. of
butter, 1 oz. of flour, 2 ozs. of sugar, nutmeg.
Method. — Barely cover the bottom of a saucepan with water, put
in the gooseberries and cook slowly until tender, then rub through a
fine sieve. Melt the butter in a saucepan, stir in the flour and cook
well, add the milk and stir until it boils. Add the gooseberry puree
and the sugar, make hot, and serve.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 4-Jd. to 5d. for this quantity.
The Gooseberry (Fr. groseille), the common name for the well-known and wholesome fruit of
ribcs grossularia , a prickly shrub, indigenous to Britain, many parts of Europe and North America.
The fruit varies in flavour, and is red, yellow, green, or whitish, and hairy or smooth on its surface.
It is used largely for preserves, and for pies, puddings, etc. Malic and citric acid are found in the
gooseberry, and from the berries a champagne is manufactured.
337. — GOOSEBERRY SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce aux
Groseilles.) (Another Method.)
Ingredients.— \ of a pint of water, 2 tablespoonfuls of green gooseberry
jam, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, a little apple-green or spinach-
green colouring.
Method.— Put the water, jam and lemon juice into a saucepan, and
bring to the boil. Strain or pass through a tammy-cloth, re-heat, add
a little colouring if desirable, and serve.
Time. — About 15 minutes. Average Cost, about 3d. for this quantity.
338. — JAM SAUCE. (Fr. — Sauce au Confiture.)
Ingredients. — 1 good tablespoonful of apricot, raspberry or other
jam, of a pint of water, \ a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, sugar to taste,
carmine or cochineal, if necessary.
Method. — Put the water and jam into a small saucepan, add sugar
to taste, and make thoroughly hot. Put in the lemon-juice, and a few
drops of colouring, if necessary strain, and serve with sweet puddings,
etc.
Time. — 10 minutes. Average Cost, 2d. to 3d.
339. — LEMON BRANDY. (Fr.— Cognac au Citron.)
(For Flavouring Custards.)
Ingredients.- — \ a pint of cooking brandy, ^ of a pint of water, I oz.
of loaf sugar, 1 lemon.
FRUIT SAUCES AND SWEET SAUCES
267
Method. — Remove from the lemon the thinnest possible rind, as the
least particle of the white pith would spoil the flavour. Put the brandy
into a bottle, add the lemon-rind, and let it infuse for 24 hours, then
strain and return to the bottle. Boil the sugar and water together,
skim well, and when perfectly cold, add it to the brandy. A dessert-
spoonful of this will be found an excellent flavouring for boiled custards.
Time. — Altogether 26 or 27 hours. Average Cost, is. 3d. to is. 6d_.
340. — LEMON SAUCE. (Fr. — Sauce Citron.) (For
sweet Puddings.)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of water, 1 glass of sherry, the juice and rind
of 1 lemon, the yolks of 2 eggs, 1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, 3 or 4
lumps of sugar.
Method. — Rub the sugar on to the lemon until all the outer rind is
removed. Squeeze and strain the juice. Melt the butter, stir in
the flour, and cook well without browning. Add the water, stir
until it boils, then put in the sugar and lemon juice. Mix the yolks
of eggs and sherry together, let the sauce cool slightly* then pour them
in, stir until the sauce thickens, and serve.
Time. — From 25 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, 5d. to 6d. for this
quantity.
341. — LEMON SAUCE. (Fr. — Sauce Citron.) (Econ-
omical.)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of boiling water, 1 lemon, 1 oz. of loaf sugar,
1 dessertspoonful of arrowroot.
Method. — Rub the sugar on the lemon until the outer rind is removed.
Have the water boiling in a saucepan, add the sugar. Mix the arrowroot
smoothly with a little cold water, pour it into the saucepan, and stir
until it boils. Add the lemon-juice, and more sugar if necessary, and
serve.
Time. — From 20 to 25 minutes. Average Cost, 2d. for this quantity.
342. — MARMALADE SAUCE. (Fr. — Sauce Marme-
lade.)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of water, 1 glass of sherry, 2 tablespoonfuls
of marmalade, 1 dessertspoonful of sugar (or to taste), 1 teaspoonful of
lemon-juice.
Method. — Put the water and marmalade into a saucepan, and stir
until it boils. Add the sugar, lemon-juice and sherry, stir until the
sugar is dissolved, and serve.
Time. — About 10 minutes. Average Cost, 5d. with the sherry.
268
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
343. — MARMALADE SAUCE. (Fr. — Sauce Marme-
lade.) (Economical.)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of water, 1 tablespoonful of marmalade, 1
tablespoonful of sugar, 1 large teaspoonful of cornflour, 1 teaspoonful
of lemon-juice.
Method. — Boil the water. Mix the cornflour smoothly with a little
cold water, add it to the boiling water, stirring all the time. Put in
the sugar and marmalade, simmer for 5 minutes, add the lemon-juice,
and serve.
Time — About 15 minutes. Average Cost, 2d.
344. — ORANGE SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce a l’Orange.)
Ingredients. — of a pint of milk, 1 glass of curaiyoa, 2 yolks of eggs,
2 ozs. of castor sugar, 1 small orange.
Method. — Boil the milk, add the sugar, the grated orange rind,
and a tablespoorfful of orange-juice, simmer for 5 minutes, then cool
slightly. Beat the eggs with a little milk, pour them into the saucepan,
stir until they begin to thicken, then add the cura5oa, and serve.
Time. — About \ an hour. Average Cost, 7d. to 8d. for this quantity.
345. — ORANGE SYRUP. (Fr.— Sirop d’Orange.)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of orange juice, the rind of 2 oranges, f of a lb.
of castor sugar.
Method. — Remove the rind in very thin strips ; they should be almost
transparent. Put the sugar, orange-juice, and rind into a saucepan,
and simmer very gently for about \ an hour. Remove the scum as it
rises. Strain, and when cold, bottle for use. A little of this will be
found an excellent flavouring for sweet sauces and custard.
Time. — From 40 to 50 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. to 8d.
346. — PLUM PUDDING SAUCE.
Ingredients. — 1 glass of brandy, 1 glass of Madeira, 2 ozs. of butter,
castor sugar.
Method. — Put the butter and 1 tablespoonful of castor sugar into a
basin, and let it stand on or near the stove until the butter is melted.
Stir in the brandy and Madeira, add more sugar if necessary, and when
hot enough to use, either pour it over the pudding or serve separately
in a tureen.
Time. — About \ an hour. Average Cost, iod.
FRUIT SAUCES AND SWEET SAUCES 269
347. —RASPBERRY SAUCE. (Fr. Sauce Framboise.)
Ingredients. — ^of a pint of water, 2 tablespoonfuls of raspberry jam,
1 glass of sherry, sugar to taste, a few drops of carmine or cochineal.
Method. — Put the water, jam, and 3 or 4 lumps of sugar into a sauce-
pan, and simmer for 10 minutes, then add the sherry, and strain. Add
sugar to taste, and a few drops of colouring if required, and serve.
Time. — About 15 minutes. Average Cost, from 3d. to 6d.
348. — RASPBERRY SAUCE. (Fr. — Sauce Framboise.)
(Economical.)
Ingredients. — 4 tablespoonfuls of water, 1 tablespoonful of jam, 1
tablespoonful of sugar, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice.
Method. — Boil the sugar and water together for 10 minutes, then add
the jam and lemon-juice, and simmer a few minutes longer. A few
drops of cochineal will brighten the colour, but are not essential.
Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, 2d. to 2^-d. for this quantity.
349. — RED-CURRANT SAUCE. (For puddings or for
Venison, Hare, etc.)
Ingredients. — A small jar of red-currant jelly, 1 glass of port wine.
Method. — Put the wine and jelly into a small saucepan, let them slowly
come to the boil, and serve when the jelly is dissolved.
Time. — 5 minutes. Average Cost, iod.
350. — SAGO SAUCE. (Fr. — Sauce Sagou.)
Ingredients. — i tablespoonful of large sago, l- of a pint of boiling water,
1 glass of sherry, 1 dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, sugar to taste, a
few thin strips of lemon-rind.
Method. — Add the sago and lemon-rind to the boiling water, and
simmer gently until the sago is quite clear. Remove the lemon-rind,
add the sherry and lemon-juice, sweeten to taste, make quite hot,
and serve.
Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, qd. to 5d.
351. - SAUCE FOR PLUM PUDDING. (Soyers.)
Ingredients. — \ of a pint of milk, 2 glasses of brandy, 1 tablespoonful
of castor sugar, the yolks of 2 eggs, a very little grated lemon-rind.
270
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Mix all the ingredients in a saucepan, set the pan on the
lire, and whisk until the contents thicken and become frothy. Serve
at once.
Time. — 10 to 15 minutes. Average Cost, is.
352. — SAUCE FOR SWEET PUDDINGS.
Ingredients. — J of a lb. of but ter, \ of a lb. of pounded sugar, a wine-
glassful of brandy or rum.
Method. — Beat the butter to a cream, add the pounded sugar and
brandy or rum; stir until the whole is thoroughly mixed, and serve.
This sauce may either be poured round the pudding or served in a
tureen, according to taste.
Time. — 10 minutes. Average Cost.— 8d.
353. — SAUCE FOR XMAS PUDDING.
Ingredients. — 1 wineglass of rum, 4 yolks of eggs, 3 whites of eggs,
2 ozs. of castor sugar, \ gill of water.
Method. — Put all the ingredients into a stewpan with half a gill of
water, stand it in a larger pan of boiling water, and whisk briskly
until the whole becomes thick and frothy. Serve at once.
Time.— About 15 minutes. Average Cost, pd. or lod. for this quantity.
354. — SAUCE FOR XMAS PUDDING. (Another
Method.)
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of butter, 2 ozs. of sugar, 10 bitter almonds, 1
wineglassful of brandy.
Method. — Blanch and finely chop the almonds, then pound them
well in a mortar. Beat the butter and sugar to a cream, add the
almonds and brandy, continue to beat until the preparation has the
appearance of clotted cream, then use as required.
Time.— From 20 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, is.
355. — SAUCE FOR XMAS PUDDING. (Another
Method.)
Ingredients. — J of a pint of brandy or sherry, \ of a pint of boiling
water, 1 tablespoonful of castor sugar, 1 level teaspoonful of arrowroot.
Method. — Blend the arrowroot smoothly with 2 tablespoonfuls of
cold water, and pour over it the boiling water, stirring meanwhile.
FRUIT SAUCES AND SWEET SAUCES
271
Put it into a stcwpan with the brandy or wine and sugar, boil gently
for 2 minutes, then serve.
Time. — Altogether, 10 minutes. Average Cost, iod. to is.
356. — SOYER’S SAUCE FOR PLUM PUDDING.
Ingredients. — \ of a pint of brandy, \ of a pint of milk, the yolks of
3 eggs, 1 dessertspoonful of castor sugar, a good pinch of very finely-
grated lemon-rind.
Method. — Beat the yolks of eggs and milk well together, add the
sugar and lemon-rind, and turn the whole into a small saucepan.
Whisk until the mixture thickens, then add the brandy, continue to
whisk until thoroughly hot, and serve separately or poured over the
pudding.
Time. — About 10 minutes. Average Cost, is. 4d.
357. — SWEET MELTED BUTTER.
Ingredients. — } a pint of milk or water, 1 oz. of butter, \ an oz. of
flour, an oz. of sugar, a pinch of salt.
Method. — Melt the butter in a saucepan, stir in the flour, and cook
well without browning. Add the milk or water and stir until it boils.
Simmer for 2 or 3 minutes, then add the sugar, a good pinch of salt, and
Serve.
Time. — 15 to 20 minutes. Average Cost, 2-|d., if made with milk.
358. — VANILLA SAUCE. (Fr. Sauce a la Vanille.)
Ingredients. — 1 pint of milk, 1 egg, 1 oz. of sugar, \ an oz. of cornflour,
a few drops of vanilla essence.
Method. — Mix the cornflour smoothly with a little of the milk. Have
ready a saucepan of boiling water, put the remainder of the milk into
a jug, and stand the jug in the boiling water until the milk is quite
hot. Add the sugar to the milk, also add the moistened cornflour and
stir until it thickens. Beat the egg in a basin, and add 2 or 3 table-
spoonfuls of the sauce to it gradually. Pour into the jug and stir
for a few minutes to cook the egg, then add the Vanilla essence, and
serve.
Time. — 40 to 60 minutes. Average Cost, about 3-ld.
359. —WINE SAUCE. (Fr. Sauce au Vin.)
Ingredients. — of a pint of water, 1 glass of sherry, 1 tablespoonful
of any kind of jam, 1 tablespoonful of castor sugar, lemon-juice to
taste,
272
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. -Put the sugar and water into a saucepan, and simmer for
io minutes, then add the rest of the ingredients, bring to the boil,
strain, and serve.
Time. — About 15 minutes. Average Cost, 4d. to 5d.
360. — WINE SAUCE. (Fr. — Sauce au Vin.) (Econ-
omical.)
Ingredients. — J- a pint of water, 1 large glass of sherry, 1 tablespoonful
(level) of sugar, 1 teaspoonful of arrowroot.
Method. — Mix the arrowroot with a little of the water and boil the
remainder, pour it on to the arrowroot, stirring all the time. Return
to the saucepan, add the wine and sugar, boil up, and serve. The colour
may be improved by the addition of a few drops of carmine or cochineal.
Time. — About 10 minutes. Average Cost, 3d. to 4d. for this quantity.
361. — WHITE SAUCE FOR PUDDINGS.
Ingredients. — f- of a pint of milk, 1 dessertspoonful of cornflour, sugar
to taste, 2 or 3 thin strips of lemon-rind, salt.
Method. — Blend the cornflour smoothly with a little cold milk, and
put the remainder into a saucepan. Add the lemon-rind and a pinch
of salt, simmer gently for 10 or 1 5 minutes, then strain over the blendeS
cornflour, stirring meanwhile. Return to the saucepan, sweeten to
taste, simmer gently for 5 minutes, and use as required. Any other
flavouring may be substituted for the lemon-rind.
Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, 2d. to 2-}d.
362. — ZWETSCHEN SAUCE. (Prune Sauce.)
Ingredients. — a lb. of French prunes, 1 glass of port or sherry,
1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, the finely grated rind of \ a lemon,
\ a teaspoonful of powdered cinnamon, sugar to taste.
Method. — Simmer the prunes until tender, in just enough water to
cover them. When cool, crack, and preserve the kernels. Replace the
fruit and kernels in the stewpan, add sugar to taste, cinnamon, lemon-
rind and lemon-juice, cook gently for 10 minutes, and pass through
a fine hair sieve. Re-heat, add the wine, and a little water if too
thick, and use as required.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 8d.
Cinnamon (Fr. cinnamomc) . — The cinnamon tree, Lauras cinnanomum, is a valuable and beautiful
member of the Lauraceae, or laurel family. Its trunk is short and straight, with wide spreading
branches, and a smooth, ash-like bark. It attains a height of 20 to 30 feet. The leaves are
oval-shaped, 3 to 5 inches long ; the flowers are in panicles, with six small petals of a pale-yellow
colour. The fruit, which resembles an acorn, is soft and insipid, and of a deep-blue. It incloses a
nut, the kernel of which germinates after falling. The leaves, fruit and root of the cinnamon all yield
a volatile oil, oil of cinnamon. The bark of the tree — the thinner bark is the most esteemed —
furnishes the well-known cinnamon used by cooks and confectioners. From the fragrant fatty
substance of the fruit candles were formerly made exclusively for the King of Ceylon. Cinnamon is
employed in medicine as a carminative and stomachic remedy.
RECIPES FOR MISCELLANEOUS SAUCES
273
Miscellaneous Sauces.
303. — BENTON SAUCE.
Ingredients. — 4 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 1 tablespoonful of scraped
horseradish, 1 teaspoonful of made mustard, 1 teaspoonful of castor
sugar.
Method. — Mix all the ingredients well together, and serve as an
accompaniment to either hot or cold roast beef.
Time. — From 10 to 15 minutes. Average Cost, 2d.
364. — BLACK BUTTER SAUCE.
Ingredients.— ozs. of butter, 1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley,
a teaspoonful of vinegar.
Method. — Cook the butter in a frying or saute-pan until it acquires
a nut-brown colour, then add the parsley and vinegar, cook for 1 minute
longer, and serve.
Time. — 5 minutes. Average Cast, 2d.
365. — BOAR’S HEAD SAUCE.
Ingredients. — a pint of dissolved red-currant jelly, J of a pint of
port wine, 4 oranges, 3 lumps of sugar, 1 finely-chopped shallot, 1
mustardspoonful of mixed mustard, pepper.
Method. — Shred the rind of 2 oranges into very fine strips, and rub
the lumps of sugar over the rinds of the remaining two. Put the rind
and sugar into the liquid jelly, add the wine, shallot, mustard, and a
liberal seasoning of pepper, and use as required, or the sauce may be
put into well-corked bottles and stored for use.
Tims.— 30 minutes. Average Cost, is. iod.
366. — CAMBRIDGE SAUCE.
Ingredients. — 2 tablespoonfuls of olive oil, 1 tablespoonful of tarragon
vinegar, 4 hard-boiled yolks of eggs, 4 fillets of anchovies, 1 table-
spoonful of capers, 1 dessertspoonful of French mustard, 1 teaspoonful
of English mustard, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, a sprig
of tarragon, a sprig of chervil, a pinch of cayenne.
Method. — Pound all the ingredients except the parsley well together,
then pass through a hair sieve. If too stiff, add a little oil and vinegar
gradually until the consistency resembles that of mayonnaise sauce.
274
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Stir in the parsley, and keep on ice until required. This is an excellent
sauce to serve with cold meat.
Time. — About \ an hour. Average Cost, 8d. to 9d.
367. — CARRACK SAUCE.
Ingredients. — 1 quart of vinegar, 8 dessertspoonfuls of walnut pickle,
5 dessertspoonfuls of Indian soy, 5 dessertspoonfuls of mushroom
ketchup, 3 dessertspoonfuls of mango pickle sliced, 2 cloves of garlic
finely-chopped.
Method. — Put all the ingredients into a large bottle, let it stand for
a month, shaking it 2 or 3 times daily. At the end of this time the
sauce will be ready for use, but it will keep good for a length of time
in well-corked bottles.
Time.— 1 month. Average Cost, is. 6d.
368. — CAYENNE VINEGAR.
Ingredients. — 1 pint of vinegar, \ an oz. of cayenne pepper.
Method.— Mix the vinegar and cayenne together in a bottle, let it
Stand for x month, shaking the preparation daily. When ready,
strain into well-corked bottles, and store for use.
Time.— 1 month. Average Cost, about 6d.
369.— CHEESE SAUCE.
Ingredients. — } of a pint of milk, f of an oz. of butter, § of an oz. of
flour, 1 tablespoonful of finely-grated cheese, salt and pepper.
Method. — Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the flour, stir and cook
the mixture for 5 minutes without browning, and add the milk. Season
to taste, simmer gently for 10 minutes, then stir in the cheese, and use
as required.
Time. — 20 minutes. Average Cost, 5d. or 6d.
370.— DEMI-GLACE SAUCE.
Ingredients. — 1 a pint of Espagnole sauce (see page 240), J of a pint of
good gravy, salt and pepper.
Method. — Make the Espagnole sauce as directed, boil until well
reduced, then add the gravy, simmer for about 10 minutes, season to
taste, and serve.
Time. — 15 minutes. Average Cost, 8d.
RECIPES FOR MISCELLANEOUS SAUCES
275
371. — EPICUREAN SAUCE.
Ingredients.— 1 gill of mayonnaise sauce, No. 201, \ a gill of aspic
jelly, (see jellies) , A a gill of cream, 1 tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar,
1 teaspoonful of anchovy-essence, 1 dessertspoonful of chopped
gherkins, 1 dessertspoonful of chopped chutney, £ a cucumber, salt,
pepper, sugar.
Method. — Peel the cucumber thinly, cut it into small pieces, and
cook till tender in salted water. Drain off the water, and rub the
cucumber through a fine sieve. Carefidly mix the mayonnaise with
the cream, anchovy-essence, gherkins, and chutney, Mix the cm
cumber puree with the vinegar and the aspic, which should be
dissolved but almost cold. Blend both mixtures together. Season
with salt, pepper, and a little castor sugar, and serve with fish, cold
meat, or vegetables such as asparagus, green artichokes, etc,
This also makes a nice dressing for fish salads,
Time, — 40 minutes. Cost, about is.
372. — FISH SAUCE. (Fr. — Sauce Poisson.)
Ingredients. — 1 quart of malt vinegar, 2 tablespoonfuls of walnut
ketchup, 2 tablespoonfuls of soy, 1 oz. of cayenne, 1 clove of garlic,
2 shallots sliced.
Method. — Put all the ingredients into a large bottle, and shake them
daily for a fortnight. When ready, strain into small bottles, cork
securely, and store for use.
Time. — 14 days. Average Cost, iod. to is.
373. — HARVEY SAUCE.
Ingredients. — 1 quart of malt vinegar, \ of a pint of Indian soy,
£ of a pint of mushroom or walnut vinegar, 6 anchovies finely-chopped,
1 clove of garlic bruised, \ of an oz. of cayenne.
Method. — Put all the ingredients into an earthenware jar, cover
closely, let the mixture remain for 1 month, stirring it 2 or 3 times
daily. When ready, strain into small bottles, cork securely, and store
or use.
Time. — 1 month. Average Cost, is. 6d.
374. — HERB SAUCE.
Ingredients. — 1 stick of horseradish finely scraped, 2 shallots shredded,
2 or 3 sprigs each of marjoram, thyme, basil, and tarragon, 4 cloves,
1 teaspoonful of caramel browning, No. 155, 1 tablespoonful of
lemon-juice, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 1 pint of water.
Method. — Simmer all these ingredients together for an hour, and
276
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
when quite cold strain into small bottles. Cork and seal securely,
and store for use. This sauce will be found useful for flavouring
gravies and stews.
Time. — 40 minutes. Average Cost, 8d.
Marjoram (Fr. Marjolaitie). There are several species of marjoram, which grows wild on
chalky soils of Britain, and is one of the commonest of ornamental wild plants. The species used
for culinary purposes is the Sweet Marjoram, a native of Southern Europe. It is cultivated in
gardens, and when it blossoms it is cut and the leaves, which have an agreeable aromatic flavour,
are dried. Marjoram is a favourite ingredient in stuffings, soups, sauces, etc.
375. — HESSIAN SAUCE.
Ingredients. — of a pint of sour cream (about), 1 tablespoonful of
grated horseradish, 1 tablespoonful of fine breadcrumbs, milk, sugar, salt.
Method. — Soak the breadcrumbs in just as much milk as they wdl
absorb, add the grated horseradish, and a pinch of salt and sugar.
Add cream gradually until the desired consistency is obtained, and serve
as an accompaniment to roast beef or beef steak.
Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, 8d.
376. — JELLY SAUCE.
Ingredients. — 1 small pot of red-currant jelly, 1 glass of port wine.
Method. — Dissolve the red-currant jelly, add the wine, make it
thoroughly hot, and serve as an accompaniment to venison.
Time. — \ an hour. Average Cost, is.
377. — LEAMINGTON SAUCE.
Ingredients. — 3 pints of vinegar, 1 pint of walnut-juice, \ a pint of
Indian soy, 4- of a pint of port wine, 1 oz. of shallots, ^ of an oz. of
garlic, £ an oz. of cayenne.
Method. — Procure young green walnuts, pound them to a pulp,
sprinkle liberally with salt, and let them remain for 3 days, stirring
at frequent intervals. Strain the juice obtained, measure and add
the rest of the ingredients in the proportions stated above, the garlic
and shallots being previously pounded or finely-chopped. Turn the
whole into a large jar, cover closely for 3 weeks, then strain into
small bottles, cork and seal securely, and store for use.
Time. — About 1 month. Average Cost, 2s. iod. to 3s.
378. — LEGHORN SAUCE.
Ingredients. — 3 hard-boiled yolks of eggs, salad-oil, vinegar, tarragon
vinegar, 2 anchovies pounded and sieved, \ a teaspoonful of finely-
chopped parsley, nutmeg, pepper.
Method. — Crush the yolks with a wooden spoon in a basin, add salad-
oil, drop by drop at first, until the preparation has the consistency
RECIPES FOR MISCELLANEOUS SAUCES
277
of very thick cream. Stir in a pmch of nutmeg, a little pepper, an-
chovies, parsley, and vinegar to taste. Set on ice until wanted.
Time. — 30 minutes. Average Cost, is. 4d.
379. — LEMON SAUCE. (For Fowls, etc.)
Ingredients. — h a pint of chicken stock, j of a pint of milk, 2 tablespoon-
fuls of cream, the thinly-peeled rind and juice of 1 lemon, ozs. of
butter, 1 oz. of flour, salt and pepper.
Method. — Simmer the lemon-rind and the milk and stock together
for 10 minutes. Melt the butter in a small saucepan, add the flour,
and stir and cook for 5 or 6 minutes, without browning. Pour in the
stock and milk, stir until boiling, simmer gently for 20 minutes,
season to taste, add the cream and lemon-juice, and serve.
Time. — About \ an hour. Average Cost, 8d. to iod.
380. — LIVER AND LEMON SAUCE.
Ingredients. — \ a pint of melted butter, No. 202, 1 lemon, the liver
of a fowl, salt and pepper.
Method. — Boil the liver until firm, and chop it finely. Grate off
the lemon -rind, and mix it with the liver. Remove every particle
of white pith, and cut the lemon into dice, putting all the pips aside.
Make the melted butter sauce as directed in No. 202, add the prepared
liver, lemon-rind and dfee, season to taste, and use as required.
Time. — About i- an hour. Average Cost, 2-^ cl.
381. — LIVER AND PARSLEY SAUCE.
Ingredients. — l a pint of melted butter, No. 202, 1 tablespoonful of
finely-chopped parsley, the liver of a fowl, salt and pepper.
Method. — Boil the liver until firm, and chop it finely, make the
melted butter as directed, add the parsley and prepared liver, season to
taste, and serve.
Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, 2-ld.
382. — NUT BROWN BUTTER. (Fr.— Beurre Noir.)
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of butter, 1 tablespoonful of finely-chopped
parsley, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, salt and pepper.
Method. — Cook the butter in a frying pan until it turns brown,
then add the parsley, vinegar, and salt and pepper to taste. Let the
whole simmer for 1 or 2 minutes, when it is ready to serve.
Time. — of an hour. Average Cost, 5d.
383. — QUIN’S SAUCE.
Ingredients. — 1 pint of mushroom ketchup, \ a pint of walnut pickle,
278
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
\ a pint of port wine, ^ of a pint of soy, 12 anchovies chopped, 12 shallots
chopped, \ a teaspoonful of cayenne.
Method.— Put all the ingredients into a saucepan, simmer gently for
1 5 minutes, and strain. When quite cold, bottle, cork and seal securely,
and store for use.
Time. — 25 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. 8d.
384. — READING SAUCE.
Ingredients. — 2\ pints of walnut pickle, i\ ozs. of shallots, coarsely-
chopped, 1 quart of water, | of a pint of Indian soy, 1 anchovy coarsely-
chopped, -1- an oz. of ginger bruised, ^ an oz. of white peppercorns,
1 oz. of mustard seed, \ an oz. of cayenne, \ of an oz. of dried bay-
leaves.
Method. — Put the walnut pickle and shallots into a large jar, and cook
in a gentle oven until reduced to 2 pints. In another jar place the
cayenne, mustard seed, peppercorns, ginger and anchovy, add the soy
and water, and cook in a gentle oven for 1 hour after simmering point
is reached. Mix the contents of the 2 jars together, and when quite
cold add the bay-leaves. Leave closely covered for 1 week, then strain
into small bottles, cork and seal securely, and store for use.
Time. — 2 hours and 1 week. Average Cost, 2s. 8d. to 3s.
385. — SAUCE FOR STEAKS, CHOPS, ETC.
Ingredients. — 1 pint of mushroom ketchup or walnut pickle, I an oz.
of pickled shallots, \ an oz. of grated horseradish, \ an oz. of allspice,
1 oz. of black pepper, 1 oz. of salt.
Method. — Pound the shallots and horseradish until smooth in a
mortar, add the rest of the ingredients, and let the whole stand closely
covered for 14 days. Strain into small bottles, cork and seal securely,
and store for use.
Time. — 2 weeks. Average Cost, is. 6d.
Allspice (Fr. piment). — The popular name for pimento, or Jamaica pepper, the dried berries or
Eugenia pimenia, a lofty handsome tree, with dark shiny green leaves and fragrant white flowers.
It belongs to the Myrtaceae, or myrtle family, and receives its name of “ Allspice ” from its possessing
the combined flavours of cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg. The berries are gathered in the green state
and dried in the sun, which causes them to turn black. Allspice is used in medicine as an aromatic,
and in various ways is employed in cookery.
386. — STORE SAUCE.
Ingredients. — 1 pint of mushroom ketchup, \ a pint of walnut ketchup,
\ a pint of port wine, 12 anchovies, 6 shallots, 2 tablespoonfuls of
cayenne.
Method. — Pound the anchovies and shallots, or chop them finely ;
add them to the rest of the ingredients, and boil gently for 1 hour.
RECIPES FOR MISCELLANEOUS SAUCES 279
When cold, put the preparation into well-corked bottles, and store for
use.
Time. — i-jr hour. Average Cost, 3s.
387. — SUBSTITUTE FOR CAPER SAUCE.
Ingredients. — 1 good tablespoonful of coarsely-chopped gherkins
| of a pint of white stock, of a pint of milk, ilj- ozs. of butter, 1^ ozs
of flour, vinegar, salt and pepper.
Method. — Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the flour, stir and cook
the mixture for 6 or 7 minutes, then add the stock and milk. Simmer
gently for 10 minutes, season with salt and pepper, add vinegar to
taste, and the prepared gherkins. Serve with boiled mutton, or other
dishes to which caper sauce forms an accompaniment.
Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, 6d., exclusive of the stock.
388. — SWEDISH SAUCE.
Ingredients. — 2 raw yolks of eggs, 2 hard-boiled yolks of eggs, 1 tea-
spoonful of finely-chopped mixed herbs, salad oil, tarragon vinegar,
prepared mustard, salt and pepper.
Method. — Pass the hard-boiled yolks of eggs through a fine sieve.
Stir the raw yolks with a wooden spoon in a small basin until thick
and creamy, mix in the yolks, and add the salad oil, drop by drop,
until the desired consistency is obtained, stirring briskly meanwhile.
Add a teaspoonful of made mustard, the herbs, vinegar, and salt and
pepper to taste, and mix well. Stand on ice until required.
Time. — About \ an hour. Average Cost, 6d. or 7d.
Note. — This sauce is sometimes used for coating or masking purposes,'
in which case, \ a gill or so of aspic should be incorporated.
389. — TAMARIND SAUCE.
Ingredients. — Ripe tamarinds, sugar to taste.
Method. — Place the fruit in layers in a stone jar, sprinkling each
layer slightly or liberally with sugar, according to taste. Cook in a
cool oven until quite tender, then pass through a fine hair sieve, and
when quite cold turn into small bottles, cork and seal securely, and
store for use.
Time. — About 4 hours.
390. — TOMATO SAUCE. ( Fr . — Sauce Tomate.)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of vinegar, 2 lb. of tomatoes, 1 Spanish onion
sliced, £ a lb. of brown sugar, 3 ozs. of allspice, 1 oz. of black pepper-
corns, 2 ozs. of salt, £ of an oz. of cloves, of a teaspoonful of cayenne.
Method. — Put all the ingredients into a stewjar or saucepan, cover
28o
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
closely, and cook very gently for 2 hours. Pass through a fine hair
sieve, let the puree remain until quite cold, then turn into small bottles,
cork and seal securely, and store for use.
Time. — About 2\ hours. Average Cost, is. 3d.
391. — TOMATO ASPIC.
Ingredients. — \ a pint of tomato pulp, \ an oz. of gelatine (previously
soaked in water), a gill of aspic, and 1 tablespoonful of meat
glaze.
Method. — Put the above named ingredients in a saucepan over the
fire, stir until it boils, season to taste with salt and a pinch of cayenne
pepper, strain the aspic through a cloth or fine sieve, and use as
directed.
Time. — 20 minutes. Average Cost, about is. 3d.
392. — WORCESTER SAUCE.
Ingredients. — 1 pint of Bordeaux vinegar, 3 tablespoonfuls of walnut
ketchup, 3 tablespoonfuls of essence of anchovy, 2 tablespoonfuls of
Indian Soy, 1 teaspoonful of cayenne, 2 cloves of garlic finely-chopped.
Method. — Put all the ingredients into a large bottle, cover closely,
and shake well every day for a fortnight. At the end of this time it
will be ready for use, but it may be stored for a length of time in well-
corked bottles.
Time. — 2 weeks. Average Cost, is. qd.
Forcemeats.
Forcemeat, or Farcemeat, as it was originally called, derives its
name from the French verb farcie, to stuff. In modern phraseology
the term farce or forcemeat is applied equally to the simple and quickly
made veal stuffing, the finely-pounded quenelle mixture (which is in
no sense a stuffing), and the various farces used to cover sections of
pigeons, cutlets, etc.
The consistency of forcemeat varies according to the purpose for
which they are required. Those intended for stuffing may be moistened
with milk instead of egg, and made much more moist than quenelles,
which must retain their shape and be firm enough to support their
own weight during the process of cooking.
The quantity of liquid necessary to thoroughly moisten, and the
number of eggs required to stiffen the various substances, cannot be
stated exactly ; but it is better to have a rough guide than none, and
RECIPES FOR FORCEMEATS
281
when making quenelle mixtures, which must have a certain consistency,
and yet retain the lightness which is one of their chief points of ex-
cellence, it is advisable to test the mixture by poaching a small quantity
of it in boiling water. When too soft, another yolk of egg should be
added, if eggs have been already used, or a few crumbs may be added
to mixtures of which they already form a part.
The excellence of many simple forcemeats depends largely on flavour-
ings and seasoning. In making them, it is a common error to use too
little salt and pepper, and too few flavourings ; it is much better to use
a small quantity of several kinds than to allow one flavour to predomin-
ate. A comparatively large quantity of nutmeg may be used in veal
forcemeat without its presence being detected ; it is believed that its
strength is in some manner used in developing the flavour of the sub-
stances with which it is mixed.
The liquid in which quenelles are poached must always be quite
boiling, in order that the surface may immediately harden, and so help
them to retain their shape.
393. — CHESTNUT FARCE FOR ROAST TURKEY.
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of chestnuts, \ a pint of stock or water, 1 oz. of
butter, a good pinch of sugar, salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut off the tops of the chestnuts, and bake or roast them
for 20 minutes. Remove both the outer and inner skins, put the
chestnuts into a stewpan, add the stock (no more than will barely
cover them), and simmer until they become tender and dry. Rub
through a fine sieve, add the butter, salt and pepper, and use as re-
quired.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, from yd. to 8d. without the
stock.
394. — FARCE OF WHITING OR OTHER FISH.
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of uncooked fish (two whitings), ^ of a pint of
milk or fish stock, No. 5, 2 ozs. of flour, 1 oz. of butter, 2 eggs,
pepper and salt.
Method. — Melt the butter, stir in the flour, add the milk or stock,
and cook until the panada forms a compact mass round the bowl
of the spoon. Pound the fish and the panada well together, add
the eggs one by one, season well, and pass the ingredients through a
wire sieve.
A lighter mixture may be obtained when required by pounding
3 yolks with the fish and mixing the 3 whites (stiffly whipped)
after passing the mixture through the sieve.
Time. — About 35 minutes. Average Cost, about is. for this quantity.
282
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
395. — FORCEMEAT FOR BAKED FISH. ( Fr.~~
Farce de Huitres et d’Anchois.)
Ingredients.— 3 ozs. of breadcrumbs, i teaspoonful of minced savoury
herbs, 8 oysters, 2 anchovies (these may be dispensed with), 2 ozs. of
suet, salt and pepper, pounded mace to taste, 6 tablespoonfuls of cream
or milk, the yolks of 2 eggs.
Method. — Beard and mince the oysters, prepare and mix the other
ingredients, and blend the whole thoroughly together. Moisten with
the cream and eggs, put all into a stewpan, and stir the mixture over
the fire till it thickens. Stuff the inside of the fish with the prepara-
tion, and sew up the opening.
Time. — 4 or 5 minutes to thicken. Average Cost, iod. Sufficient for
a moderate-sized pike.
396. — FORCEMEAT FOR SAVOURY PIES.
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of veal finely-chopped, \ of a lb. of bacon finely-
chopped, 2 tablespoonfuls of breadcrumbs, 1 dessertspoonful of finely-
chopped parsley, \ a teaspoonful of powdered mixed herbs, J of a tea-
spoonful of finely-grated lemon-rind, 1 egg, nutmeg, salt and pepper.
Method. — Mix the veal, bacon, breadcrumbs, parsley, herbs and lemon-
rind well together, and season to taste. Add the egg, which should
thoroughly moisten the dry ingredients; if too small to do this, use a
little milk or water in addition. Mix well, and use as required.
Average Cost.— iod. to is. Sufficient for 1 large pie.
397. — -HAM FORCEMEAT FOR VEAL, TURKEY,
FOWL, HARE.
Ingredients. — 2 ozs. of ham or lean bacon, 4 ozs. of suet, 4 ozs. of bread
crumbs, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, \ a teaspoonful of
mixed herbs, the grated rind of \ a lemon, a good pinch of nutmeg,
a good pinch of mace, 2 eggs, or 1 egg and a little milk, salt and pepper.
Method. — Chop the ham and suet finely. Mix all the dry ingredients
well together, add the eggs, season to taste, mix well, and use as re-
quired. When the mixture is intended for balls, the consistency
should be tested by poaching a small quantity in boiling water.
Time. — 20 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, about 6d. for this quantity.
398. — LIVER FARCE ( Fr . — Farce de Foie de Veau.)
FOR QUAILS, AND OTHER BIRDS.
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of calf’s liver, 2 ozs. of lean veal, 3 ozs. of bacon,
\ a very small onion, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf),
1 oz. of butter, the yolk of 1 egg, salt and pepper.
RECIPES FOR FORCEMEATS
283
Method. — Cut the liver, veal, and bacon into very small pieces, melt
the butter in a saute-pan, put in the meat, onion, finely-chopped,
bouquet-garni, and a good seasoning of salt and pepper, and fry 10
or 15 minutes. Pound in a mortar, rub through a wire sieve, add the
yolk of egg, mix well, season to taste, and use as required.
Time. — About 40 minutes. Average Cost, iod. to is.
399. — LOBSTER FARCE FOR QUENELLES.
Ingredients. — 6 ozs. of lobster, J of a pint of fish stock or milk, 2 ozs.
of flour, 1 oz. of butter, 2 eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, salt, cayenne.
Method. — Melt the butter in a saucepan, stir in the flour, add the stock
or milk, and cook until it leaves the sides of the saucepan clear and forms
a compact mass round the bowl of the spoon, then put it aside to cool.
Chop the lobster finely, and pound it and the panada (flour mixture)
well together in the mortar ; add each egg separately, season to taste,
pound thoroughly, and rub the mixture through a wire sieve. Stir
in the cream, and the farce is ready for use. This mixture, being very
light, is best steamed in small quenelle or dariol moulds.
Average Cost, 2s. to 2s. 6d. for this quantity.
400. — OYSTER FORCEMEAT FOR ROAST OR
BOILED TURKEY.
Ingredients. — 18 sauce oysters, \ a pint of breadcrumbs, 2 ozs. of
finely-chopped suet, £ a teaspoonful of mixed herbs, a good pinch of
nutmeg, salt and pepper, 1 egg, and a little milk if necessary (or oyster
liquor).
Method. — Beard the oysters, put any liquor from them into a sauce-
pan, add the beards, and simmer for about 10 minutes. Cut the oysters
into small pieces, mix with them the breadcrumbs, suet, herbs, nutmeg,
and seasoning. Add the egg and sufficient milk or oyster liquor to
thoroughly moisten the whole, and mix well. Press the farce lightly
into the breast of the turkey.
Time. — From 30 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, about is. 9d. for this
quantity. Sufficient for one turkey.
401. — PORK STUFFING.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of onions, 4 tablespoonfuls of breadcrumbs, 2
ozs. butter, 1 dessertspoonful of finely-chopped sage or a teaspoonful
of powdered sage, salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the onions into slices, cover them with cold water,
bring to the boil, cook for 5 minutes, then strain and drain well. Melt
the butter in a stewpan, and fry the onions for about 1 5 minutes without
234
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
browning. Add the breadcrumbs, sage and seasoning, mix well, and
use as required.
Average Cost. — qd. Sufficient for a leg or loin of pork.
Note. — For other methods see “Sage and Onion Stuffing.”
402. — QUENELLES, TO SHAPE.
To make quenelles a good shape it is necessary to use a knife and
two dessertspoons, or smaller spoons when intended for soup. Dip
one of the spoons in hot water to prevent the mixture sticking to it, fill
it with the farce, press it from the sides, and raise it in the centre
with the knife (previously dipped in hot water), making it a nice oval
shape. Take the other spoon, dip it into hot water, pass the knife
carefully round the edge of the quenelle, transfer it to the second
spoon and shape as before. As the quenelles are shaped they should
be placed in the saute pan, or stewpan, in which they are to be
cooked. When ready, sufficient boiling stock or water to half cover
them should be added, and the top of the quenelles must be covered
with a sheet of greased paper to preserve the colour, and keep moist
that part of the quenelles not under water.
403. — QUENELLES FOR SOUP.
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of fillet of veal, £ of a pint of stock, \ an oz. of
butter, 1 oz. of flour, 1 egg, salt and pepper.
Method. — Melt the butter in a small saucepan, add first the flour and
then the stock, stir and cook until the mixture forms a compact mass
round the bowl of the spoon, then put it aside to cool. Pass the veal
2 or 3 times through the mincing machine, or chop it finely. Pound the
panada (or flour mixture) and the meat well together until smooth.
Add the eggs separately, season to taste, and give the whole a good
pounding. Pass the mixture through a fine sieve, shape it into small
quenelles by means of 2 egg spoons, and poach in a little hot stock
until firm. Add them to the soup, and serve.
Time. — About 45 minutes. Average Cost, 8d. to 9d.
404. — SAGE AND ONION STUFFING. (For Roast
Goose, Duck, Pork.)
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of onions, \ a pint of freshly-made bread crumbs,
1 tablespoonful of finely-chopped sage or a teaspoonful of powdered
sage, 2 ozs. of butter, salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the onions into dice, put them into cold water, bring
to the boil, cook for 5 minutes, then strain and drain well. Melt the
butter in a stewpan, and fry the Onions for about 15 minutes without
browning them. Add the breadcrumbs, sage, and seasoning, mix well,
and use as required.
RECIPES FOR FORCEMEATS 285
Time. — About ^ an hour. Average Cost, 7d. to 8d. Sufficient for 1
goose, or 2 ducks.
405. -SAGE AND ONION STUFFING. (For roast
Goose, Duck, and Pork.)
Ingredients. — 4 large onions, 10 sage leaves, £ of a lb. of breadcrumbs,
1} ozs. of butter, salt and pepper to taste, 1 egg.
Method. — Peel the onions, put them into boiling water, let them
simmer for 5 minutes or rather longer, and, just before they are taken
out, put in the sage leaves for a minute or two to take off their rawness.
Chop both these very fine, add the bread, seasoning, and butter, and
work the whole together with the yolk of an egg, when the stuffing will
be ready for use. It should be rather highly seasoned, and the sage leaves
should be very finely chopped. Many cooks do not parboil the onions
in the manner just stated, but merely use them raw, but the stuffing
then is not nearly so mild, and, to many tastes, its strong flavour would
be very objectionable. When made for goose, a portion of the liver
of the bird, simmered for a few minutes and very finely minced, is
frequently added to this stuffing ; and where economy is studied, the
egg and butter may be dispensed with.
Time. — Rather more than 5 minutes, to simmer the onions. Average
Cost, for this quantity, 4d. Sufficient for 1 goose, or a pair of ducks.
406. — SAUSAGE FARCE. (For Stuffing Turkey.)
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of lean pork, 4 level tablespoonfuls of freshly-
made breadcrumbs, \ a teaspoonful of mixed herbs, \ a teaspoonful of
sage, 1 teaspoonful of salt, £ a teaspoonful of pepper, the liver of the
turkey finely chopped. Stock.
Method. — Cut the pork into small pieces, and pass it two or three
times through the mincing machine. Add to it the breadcrumbs,
herbs, liver, seasoning, and mix well together. Moisten with a very
little stock, and use.
Time. — From 20 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. to is. 7d.
Sufficient for one turkey.
407. — SAVOURY OYSTER STUFFING.
Ingredients. — 12 large oysters, 1 gill of stock, 4 ozs. of soft white
breadcrumbs, a little grated lemon rind, 1 dessertspoonful chopped
parsley, 1 pinch of mace, oz. of butter, salt and pepper to taste.
Method. — Beard the oysters, save the liquor and put it with the
beards and the stock and bring to the boil. Allow to simmer till the
flavour is extracted from the beards, then strain. Mix together the
breadcrumbs, grated lemon, chopped parsley, salt, pepper, butter,
mace and the oysters chopped, bind the mixture with the egg and as
286
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
much of the oyster stock as will bring to the proper consistency.
Use for stuffing fish or poultry.
Time. — 30 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. to 2s. Sufficient for 1 goose.
408. — SOYER’S RECIPE FOR GOOSE STUFFING.
Method. — Take 4 apples, peeled and cored, 4 onions, 4 leaves of sage,
4 leaves of lemon thyme not broken, and boil them in a stewpan with
sufficient water to cover them ; when done, pulp them through a sieve,
removing the sage and thyme ; then add sufficient pulp of mealy
potatoes to cause it to be sufficiently dry, without sticking to the hand ;
add pepper and salt, and stuff the bird.
Lemon Thyme (Fr. thym), Thymus citridorus , is a variety of the familiar aromatic herb. It is a
trailing evergreen of smaller growth than the garden thyme, and is remarkable for its smell, which
resembles that of the rind of a lemon : hence its distinctive name. Lemon thyme is cultivated in
gardens for its fragrant odour, and is used for seasoning, and for some particular dishes, in which
it is desired the fragrance of the lemon should slightly predominate.
409. — SUET FORCEMEAT.
Ingredients. — 2 tablespoonfuls of finely-chopped suet, 4 tablespoonfuls
of breadcrumbs, 1 good dessertspoonful of finely-chopped parsley,
\ a teaspoonful of powdered mixed herbs, ^ of a teaspoonful of grated
lemon-rind, 1 egg and a little milk, nutmeg, salt and pepper.
Method. — Mix all the dry ingredients well together, add the egg and
sufficient milk to slightly moisten the whole, season to taste, and use.
Time. — 20 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, 3d. to 4d.
410. — TRUFFLE FORCEMEAT.
Ingredients. — \ lb. of truffles (preferably fresh ones), \ a lb. of veal,
\ a lb. of pork or bacon (fat and lean in equal parts), 1 finely-chopped
shallot, 1 glass of sherry, salt and pepper.
Method. — Pass the veal and pork or bacon 2 or 3 times through a
mincing machine, or chop the meat very finely, pound in a mortar
until quite smooth, then pass through a wire sieve. Chop the shallot
and truffles finely, add them to the meat preparation, season to taste,
and moisten with the sherry and a little stock, or liquor from the
truffles when using bottled ones. Use as required.
Average Cost. — 6 to 8 shillings. Sufficient for 1 small turkey.
41 1. —VEAL FARCE FOR QUENELLES, ETC.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of fillet of veal, £ of a pint of stock, 1 oz. of butter,
2 ozs. of flour, 2 eggs, salt and pepper.
Method.- — Melt the butter in a saucepan, add the flour and the stock,
stir and cook until the mixture forms a compact mass round the bowl
RECIPES FOR FORCEMEATS
287
of the spoon, then put it aside to cool. Pass the veal two or three
times through the mincing machine, or chop it finely. Pound the
panada (the flour mixture) and the meat well together until smooth.
Add the eggs separately, season to taste, and give the whole a good
pounding. Pass the mixture through a fine sieve, and use as required.
Time. — About 45 minutes. Average Cost, is. 5d. without the stock.
412. — VEAL FARCE. (For Quenelles, etc.)
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of lean veal, a lb. of Veal suet (finely chopped),
3 ozs. of soaked bread, 2 eggs, a little grated nutmeg, salt and pepper.
Method.— Pass the meat 2 or 3 times through a mincing machine or
chop it finely, then pound the suet and veal together in a mortar. Add
the eggs one at a time, and the bread in small portions. Also add
about I of a pint of cold water, but before using the whole, poach a
little of the mixture in boiling water to test the consistency ; if too
soft, add a little more bread ; if too stiff, a little more water, shape into
quenelles, as directed on page 283.
Time.— About 45 minutes. Average Cost, is.
413. — VEAL FORCEMEAT. ( Fr . — Farce de Veau.)
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of lean veal, J of a lb. of finely-chopped beef suet,
2 ozs. of fat bacon cut into fine strips, 2 tablespoonfuls of freshly-made
breadcrumbs, 1 dessertspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, \ a teaspoon-
ful of finely-chopped onion, 2 eggs, salt and pepper, a pinch of ground
mace, a pinch of nutmeg.
Method. — Pass the veal twice through the mincing machine, then
pound it and the suet and bacon well in the mortar. Pass through a
wire sieve, add the rest of the ingredients, season to taste, and use.
Time. — -About 45 minutes. Average Cost, is. 3d for this quantity.
414. — VEAL FORCEMEAT. (Fr.— Farce de Veau.)
(Economical.)
Ingredients. — 4 tablespoonfuls of freshly-made breadcrumbs, 2 table-
spoonfuls of finely-chopped suet, 1 tablespoonful of finely-chopped
parsley, 1 teaspoonful of powdered thyme, ^ of a teaspoonful of grated
lemon-rind, 1 egg and a little milk, a good pinch of nutmeg, salt and
pepper.
Method. — Mix all the dry ingredients well together, add the egg and
sufficient milk to thoroughly moisten the whole, season to taste, and
use.
Time. —20 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, from 3d. to 4d. for this
quantity.
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HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
415.— WHITING FORCEMEAT. (Fr. — Farce de
Merlan.)
Ingredients. — 1 whiting, 2 oz. panada or soaked bread, 1 oz. butter,
Bechamel sauce (No. 177), 1 egg, cream.
Method. — Remove the meat from the whiting, pound it in a mortar,
with 2 ozs. of panada and 1 oz. of butter, and rub all through a tine
sieve. Put this preparation into a basin, and work in gradually 1
tablespoonful of well-reduced cold Bechamel sauce, 1 whole egg, and
1 tablespoonful of cream. Season with pepper, salt, and a little grated
nutmeg. Test the farce or forcemeat before using, and if not suffi-
ciently firm add another yolk of egg ora little panada. Use as directed.
FISH
Crab. 2. — Oyster. 3. — Eel. 4. — Mussel. 5. — Lemon Sole. 6. — Halibut.
7-— Prawn. 8. — Sturgeon. 9. — Trout. xo. — Sprat. ir. — Brill. 12. — Escallop.
13. — Lamprey. 14. — Whitebait. 15. — Lobster. 16. — Dover Sole.
FISH
CHAPTER XI.
The Natural History — As an Article of Diet — To
Choose — The Average Prices — General Direc-
tions for Preparing — General Instructions for
Cooking.
In Natural History Fish form the lowest of the five classes into which
the Vertebrata, or animals having a backbone, are divided. They
may be broadly described as vertebrate animals living in water, and
breathing the air contained in it by means of gills, which supply the
place of lungs. Fish are furnished with a heart, which, except in the
mud-fish consists of a single auricle and ventricle, and fins, which
take the place of the limbs of animals higher in the scale of being.
The blood-corpuscles are mostly red, and the blood is termed “ cold,”
from the circumstance that its temperature is very little, if any, higher
than that of the surrounding water.
The adaptability of the fish to the element in which it lives is seen
in the body. In most cases the external shape oilers the least possible
friction in swimming, thus securing rapid locomotion. The body is,
in general, slender, gradually diminishing towards each of its ex-
tremities, while it is also rounded on the sides, roughly resembling the
lower part of a ship’s hull, and enabling the fish, like the vessel, to
penetrate and divide the resisting fluid with comparative ease. Owing
to the great flexibility of the body in the water, the fish can with
ease migrate thousands of miles in a season.
The Principal Organs employed by Fish to accelerate motion are their
air-bladder, fins, and tail. The air-bladder, or “ sound,” is auto-
matically in origin the same as a lung, but it does not perform the
function of that organ. Its use is to enable the fish to rise or sink in the
water. The air-bladder is a sac or bag filled with gas, chiefly oxygen
in the case of sea-fish, and nitrogen in fresli-water species. When a
fish wishes to sink, it compresses the muscles of the abdomen and ejects
the gas from the air-bladder, thus increasing the weight of the body.
When it desires to ascend the abdominal muscles are relaxed. This
causes the air-bladder to fill, and the fish then rises to the surface.
289 ,
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HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
The Fins correspond to the limbs of other vertebrates. The “ an-
terior,” or first pair, are called the “ pectoral ” fins, and are analogous
to the arms of man and the fore-limbs of other animals. The hind-
fins in fishes, known as “ ventral ” fins, are often wanting, and when
present are less developed than the pectoral fins, and less fixed in their
position. The “median” or “vertical” fins, situated on the back,
are characteristic of fish, and extend more or less from the head to the
tail. The fins of some fish are soft and flexible ; in others rigid spines,
or a combination of the two. By a wonderful mechanical contrivance
the rigid spines can be raised or lowered at pleasure. In swimming,
the fins enable fish to maintain their upright position, the centre of
gravity being in their backs. The expansion and contraction of the
fins enable a fish to ascend or descend in the water.
The Tail is placed vertically, and strikes the water from side to side.
It possesses great muscular power, and is the chief organ of progression
in a fish. Its action is similar to that of the rudder of a ship, turning
the body to the right or to the left. When moved with a quick vibra-
tory motion it acts like a screw-propeller, the fish darting forward
with a speed proportionate to the force exerted. Two very distinct
types of tail are found. In the one, common to most fish, the tail is
composed of two nearly equal lobes, and is termed “ homocercal.”
In the other type, represented by the sharks and by many extinct forms,
the upper lobe is much longer than the lower, the tail in this case being
called “ hetcrocercal.”
The Bodies of Fish are mostly covered with horny scales ; but in some,
as the eel and carp, scales are altogether wanting, or exist in so minute
a form as to be almost invisible. The scales preserve the fish from
injury by the pressure or friction of the water, or the sudden [contact
with pebbles, rocks or seaweed. Where the scales are very minute
or absent, the bodies, as in sand-fish, are covered with a mucous secre-
tion, which answers the same purpose as scales. When thin, horny,
flexible, circular or elliptical in shape, like those of the salmon or herring,
the scales are called “ cycloid.” When in detached plates, sometimes
furnished with projecting spines, as in the case of the shark, they are
called “ placoid.” Thin, horny, flexible scales and comb-like pro-
jections on the hinder margin, like those of the perch, are termed
“ ctenoid.” Bony scales overlaid with hard polished enamel, a type
represented by the sturgeon, and by many fossil fish, arc known as
“ ganoid.”
The Respiration of Fish is aquatic, and is effected by the comb-like
organs, branchiae, or gills, situated on each side of the neck. The gills
are composed of delicate filaments, in which the blood is exposed
to the aerating influences of the external water. The water, after
being taken into the mouth by a process resembling swallowing, passes
over the gills, where it gives up its oxygen, and is ejected from the
FISH
291
gill-chambers by an aperture, the “ gill-slit,” placed at sides of the
mouth behind the “ gill-cover,” an organ consisting of a chain of flat
bones and a membrane. 1'he oxygen, after passing through the gills,
is driven through all parts' of the body, and the venous and impure
blood is forced by the action of the heart to the gills, where it is sub-
jected to the action of the water. Oxygen is essential to the life of a
fish, and suffocation results unless that gas is present in water. The
teeth of fish are in the jaws, sometimes on the palate or tongue, and in
some cases they are placed in the throat. They are usually sharp-
pointed and fixed ; in the carp they are obtuse, and in the pike they are
easily moved. When lost or injured, the teeth of fish are replaced ;
they are not set in sockets, but are attached by a ligament to the bones
of the mouth. In the herring the tongue is set with teeth, by means
of which it more easily retains its food.
These two great Divisions formed the basis of the classification of the
eminent naturalist, Cuvier, and may serve roughly to differentiate
the various classes of fish which are now more scientifically grouped
according to their particular characteristics into six divisions, or four
orders, if the classification of Agassiz, based on the structure of their
scales, be followed. The true internal skeleton differs very widely
among fish ; in the case of one fish, the lancelet, a true skeleton scarcely
exists, the backbone being replaced by a soft cellular rod. In some,
for example, the lampreys, sturgeons and rays, it is cartilaginous ; in
others it is partly cartilaginous and partly bony ; and in a great many,
like the herring, perch, etc., it is entirely composed of bone. The
backbone extends through the whole length of the body, and consists
of vertebrae, strong and thick towards the head, but weaker towards
the tail. Each species has a determinate number of vertebrae, which
are increased in size in proportion to the body. The ribs are attached
to the processes of the vertebrae, and enclose the breast and abdomen.
Some fish, the rays, for instance, have no ribs; whilst others, like the
sturgeon and eel, have them very short. Between the pointed pro-
cesses of the vertebrae are situated the bones which support the dorsal
(back) and the anal (below the tail) fins, which are connected with the
processes by a ligament. At the breast are the sternum, or breast-
bone, clavicles, or collar-bones, and the scapullae, or shouder-blades,
on which the pectoral or breast fins are placed. The bones which
support the ventral or belly fins are called the ossa pelvis. Besides
these principal bones, there are often smaller ones, placed between
the muscles, which assist their motion.
The Organs of Sense. — The organs of sight, hearing, smelling, taste
and touch are possessed in a higher or lower degree by fish. Those of
taste and touch are the least developed. The filaments at the mouths
of the cod, sturgeon and whiting are supposed to be organs of touch,
and it is also thought that the “ lateral line,” running along the sides
293
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
of most fish, is connected with the termination of certain nerves, and
enables a fish coming into contact with any substance to feel its pre-
sence. The sense of taste is not very delicate, the tongue and palate
being for the most part cartilaginous, and frequently set with teeth.
Fish have no external organ of hearing, and the internal apparatus is
partly free in the cavity of the skull, differing in this respect from
that of birds and quadrupeds, while its structure is simpler than that
of animals which live entirely in the air. In some genera, as in the
rays, the external orifice or ear is very small, and is placed in the upper
surface of the head, while in others there is no visible external orifice.
The sight of fish is keen; the eye is large and flattened externally, and
is furnished behind with a muscle which adjusts the focus to the re-
quirements of the fish by lengthening or flattening the eye. It is in
most cases covered with the same transparent skin which extends over
the rest of the head, protecting the organ from the action of the water.
The crystalline humour is almost globular. The organ of smelling is
large, and consists of a double cavity lined by a mucous membrane
folded into numerous plaits, into which water is admitted usually by
two distinct apertures or nostrils. The nasal sacs are closed behind,
and, except in the cases of the bog-fish and the mud-fish, do not, like
the higher vertebrates, communicate with the throat. The sense of
smell is the chief agent by which fish discover their food.
The Food of Fish. — This is almost universally found in the water.
Fish are mostly carnivorous, though they seize upon almost anything
that comes in their way; they even devour their own offspring, and
manifest a particular predilection for living creatures. Innumerable
shoals of one species pursue those of another, with a ferocity which
draws them from the pole to the equator, through all the varying
temperatures and depths of their boundless domain. Many species
must have become extinct, were not the means of escape, the pro-
duction, and the numbers greater than the dangers to which they are
exposed. The smaller species are not only more numerous, but more
productive than the larger, whilst their instinct leads them in search
of food and safety near the shores, where, from the shallowness of the
waters, many of their foes are unable to follow them.
The Fecundity of Fish is remarkable, and is especially noticeable in
the sturgeon, salmon, cod, mackerel, flounder and herring, whose
powers of reproduction are almost incredible. In general fish are
oviparous, or egg-producing, the young being afterwards hatched; some
few, like the eel and the blenny, are viviparous, and produce their young
alive. The viviparous species are not so prolific. The eggs in the roe
of the shark are comparatively few, and each ovum before exclusion
is provided with a horny sheath furnished with cirri, or filaments, by
which it moors itself to a fixed object. Reproduction is effected by
the milt of the male and the roe of the female fish. The majority of
FISH 293
fish deposit their spawn in the sand or gravel ; those inhabiting the
depths of the ocean attach their eggs to sea-weeds.
The Longevity of Fish is said to exceed that of most animals, athough
the age to which they attain is a matter of some dispute ; there are,
however, well authenticated instances of the great longevity of the
carp. Fish are either solitary or gregarious, and some of them migrate
to great distances, and into certain rivers, to deposit their spawn.
Of sea-fish, the cod, herring, mackerel, and many others, assemble
in immense shoals, and migrate through different tracts of the ocean.
The supply of Fish in the Ocean may be considered to be practically
inexhaustible, notwithstanding the excessive dredging, which has
diminished the supply around the coasts of England and some other
European countries. In various parts ol the world fish constitutes
the chief or only animal food of the people ; but it is consumed more
or less in most countries, and many prejudices have existed regarding
its use. Fish was but little eaten by the Jews, and the Mosaic code
interdicted the eating of fish destitute of scales and fins, although
other kinds were not prohibited ; and from the New Testament we
know that several of the Apostles followed the calling of fishermen.
Among the ancient Egyptians fish was an article of diet, but was not
eaten by the priests.
Fish has been held in estimation as an article of diet in nearly every
civilized country. Although Menelaus complains that the Homeric
heroes had been compelled to live on fish, in later ages lish became one
of the principal articles of food among the Greeks. Aristophanes and
Athenaeus allude to it, and satirize their countrymen for their extreme
fondness for turbot and mullet ; and the latter author has left on record
some valuable precepts on the ingenuity of the Greeks in seasoning
fish with salt, oil and aromatics. The Roman epicures were especially
fond of red mullet, which they esteemed the most delicate ; the eel-pout
and the liver of the lotas were also favourite dishes. It is stated that
Apicius offered a prize to any one who could invent a new brine (mari-
nade) compounded of the liver of red mullets ; and that Lucullus, the
famous epicure, constructed a canal in the neighbourhood of Naples
for the readv transportation of fish to his garden. Hortensius, the
actor, is said to have wept over a turbot which he had fed with his
own hands ; and the daughter of Drusus ornamented one that she
possessed with rings of gold. The French King, Louis XII, was an
ardent lover of fish, and engaged six fishmongers to supply his table.
Francis I had twenty-two fishmongers, while the requirements of
Henry the Great necessitated the employment of twenty-four. In
the time of Louis XIV cooks had become so skilful in their art, that
trout, pike or carp were converted by them into the shape and flavour
of the most delicious game. Large reservoirs and canals were erected
in many parts, for the breeding of carp and other fish. Marie An-
294
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
toinette kept her carp like the turbot of the Roman dame mentioned
above, and also adorned her finny pet with a golden ring. In England,
in the reign of Edward II, fish became a dainty, especially the stur-
geon, which was made a “ royal ” fish, and was not permitted to appear
on any table but that of the King. In the fourteenth century a decree
of King John informs us that the people ate both seals and porpoises.
The monks and noble landowners established in the Middle Ages
extensive systems of ponds and canals for breeding fresh-water fish,
so much in demand on fast days. Vestiges of these preserves are still
to be seen in many parts of the country.
American terrapin soup is made from the flesh of various species of
the fresh-water tortoises, many of which arc natives of North America.
They are distinguished by a horny beak or jaws with sharp cutting
edges and limbs, having each of the five toes united by a web. They
live on vegetables, reptiles, fish and other aquatic animals. The salt-
water terrapin is abundant in the salt marshes of Charleston. The
most esteemed species for culinary purposes is the chicken tortoise, so-
called from the delicacy of its flesh.
FISH AS AN ARTICLE OF DIET.
Fish as Food. — -As an article of nourishment, fish is less satisfying
and less stimulating than butcher’s meat. Hence it is valuable in
the sick room, when stronger kinds of animal food are unsuitable for
invalids. It is, however, a matter of common experience that in
fishing-towns, where little or no other animal food is taken, the health
and vigour of the inhabitants are excellent.
The amount of nourishment contained in fish varies with the species.
Some of the red-fleshed fish are almost as nutritious as butcher’s meat.
Chief amongst these is salmon, once a principal article of food in this
country. Every one has heard of the Scotch apprentices, in whose
indentures it was customary to insert a clause to the effect that salmon
should not be given them more than twice a week. In point of fact,
the richness and peculiar flavour of this fish make it ill adapted for
daily food.
The white-fleshed fish, such as whiting, sole, haddock, hake, cod
and skate are less nourishing, but more digestible, and it is said that
they do not so soon pall upon the appetite of those who live on fish.
The whiting is best suited for invalids ; and next, perhaps, come the
sole, haddock and plaice. Cod, hake and skate are remarkably firm-
fleshed and fibrous, and even when in good condition, are somewhat
difficult of digestion. The flesh of all these fish contains little fat ;
but in the liver, especially that of the cod-fish, oil accumulates in larger
quantity. Fish oil is said to be more easy of digestion than any other
kind of fat, and cod-liver oil is therefore commonly given to invalids.
In other fish, with flesh more or less white, there is much fat in the
tissues. Herrings, pilchards, sprats, eels, lampreys, mackerel are
FISH
295
rich, and likely to disagree with delicate persons. However, they arc
nourishing, and supplying, as they do, both fat and flavour at a small
cost, are very largely consumed by the poor. Herring is said to con-
tain more nourishment and is cheaper than any other kind of fish
food.
Crimping is employed to increase the firmness of the flesh by con-
traction of the muscles, in the case of cod, skate, salmon, and some
other species. The popular notion that fish must be crimped while
it is alive is erroneous, but it must be done immediately after death,
before rigor mortis has set in. It is said that crimped fish keeps
fresh, longer than fish in its natural state.
TO CHOOSE FISH.
The first necessity for fish is that it should be fresh. Stiffness and
rigidity of the flesh are a sure guide, for rigor mortis passes off in
the course of time, and the flesh then becomes flabby.
The smell is not a sure guide if the fish has been kept in ice, for it
may smell fresh, and yet change directly it is taken from the ice.
The redness of the gills is a good indication, and the brightness of
the eyes, which should not be sunken in the head.
A proof of freshness and goodness in most fish is their being covered
with scales ; if the scales are deficient, the fish may be stale or they
may have been damaged, and then they will not keep.
In flat-fish the skin should be smooth and moist, and closely ad-
herent to the flesh. It is a bad sign if the skin is blistered.
Salmon, cod and the large fish generally should have a bronze tint
when freshly cut. Turbot and brill should have yellowish flesh.
Very large fish are not to be preferred, as they are probably old and
tough. A flat fish should be thick in proportion to its size ; all fish
should have large girth rather than great length. In buying a slice
of fish, it is better to choose a thick slice from a small fish than a thin
slice from a large one.
The red-fleshed and. oily fish cannot be eaten too soon after they are
out of the water. If kept they should be cleaned and wiped very dry,
and laid on ice, or on stones in a current of air, when ice cannot be
obtained. The larger fish can be hung up by the gills. They can be
parboiled, and so kept for a day or two.
Turbot, brill, dory, and some other cartilaginous white-fleshed fish
may be kept for a day or two with advantage. A turbot must ahvays
be hung up by the tail until it is ready to be cooked. White fish can
be rubbed over with salt, and so kept for a day or two ; but fish loses
nourishment and quality in the process, which should only be re-
sorted to when absolutely necessary. Fish that is not quite fresh
can be improved by thorough washing in vinegar and water, or per-
manganate of potash and water. It is afterwards better fried than
boiled, but no dressing will entirely conceal its quality.
296
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Fish in Season. — Fish should be not only fresh, but of good
quality and in season. Dr. Pavy says : “ The quality of fish as an
article of food is influenced by the act of spawning, and presents
considerable variations at different periods. It is just previous to
spawning that the animal is in its highest state of perfection. Its
condition altogether is then at its best point. The animal is fatter
than at any other period, and of a richer flavour for eating. During
the process of spawning its store of fatty matter is drawn upon,
and it becomes poor, thin, watery and flabby. It is now said to
be ‘ out of season,’ and requires time to arrive in condition again. In
fish like the cod, where the fatty matter accumulates, specially in the
liver, this organ presents a most striking difference in volume and
condition before and after spawning ; whilst in such fish as the salmon,
herring, etc., where the fat is dispersed amongst the flesh, it is the
body which affords the chief evidence of change. As salmon enters
the rivers from the sea for the purpose of depositing its spawn, it is
plump and well provided with fat. On its return, the contrast in its
condition is very great. It is now so exhausted and thin as to be
looked upon as unfit for food.” When fish is out of season the flesh is
bluish in colour, and lacks firmness in texture. It does not become flaky
and opaque in boiling, and there is none of the coagulated albumen, or
curdy matter, between the flakes. The boiling has something to do
with this appearance as well as the season.
Fish out of season can often be bought at a low price, but it is never
cheap. Some few fish are sold all the year round; but lor many there
is a close time, during which they may not be killed or sold under
penalty. Any one who sells fresh salmon between September 3 and
February 1 is bound to prove that it was caught out of the United
Kingdom; and, failing that, is liable to a fine of £ 2 . A good deal of
Norwegian salmon is brought to London. Even salted and dried
salmon must have been cured out of the country or before the close
season began. Trout is out of season for four months from October. In
Scotland there is no close time for trout, which is protected in England
and Wales between October 2 and February 1. Other fresh-water
fish are protected from March 15 to June 15, by a law passed in 1878,
but they form so small a part of the national food supply that few
persons notice their absence from the stalls of the fishmonger. Eels
are by far the commonest of fresh-water fish. Large quantities are
caught in the Lincolnshire water-courses and Norfolk Broads, and
800 tons are said to be imported annually into the United Kingdom
from Holland, but much of these last are used for bait.
1 The quality of fish depends very much on the nature of their food.
As a rule, fish caught in the open sea are preferable to those living off
headlands or in an inland sea, with slow current and shallow water.
Cod is not only better in the coldest weather, but it is never so good
as when it is caught in the extreme northern latitudes. A cheap fish,
FISH
297
good of its kind, is always very much to be preferred to an expensive
fish of inferior quality.
Fresh-water fish vary according to the nature of the water in which
they have lived. When taken from a muddy stream, or in any stagnant
water, they are often scarcely eatable; while those of the same species
from deep, clear streams with a gravelly bottom have an excellent
flavour. This is especially true of eels. All such fish are greatly
improved by being kept in fresh water, and carefully fed for a few
days before they come to table.
Preserved Fish. — Various methods are resorted to for preserving fish.
It is dried, smoked, salted, put up in oil; or a combination of these
methods is used, the object being to remove moisture or to exclude
air. Of tinned fish we have spoken in another chapter. The fish that
are most easily preserved are those rich in oil and of firm fibre. All
fish lose nourishing power by being salted, and salt cod is said to be
the least nourishing of foods commonly eaten.
Shell-fish are as a rule difficult of digestion, owing to the toughness
and hardness of the flesh. The Crustacea commonly eaten are the lob-
ster, crab, crayfish, shrimp, and prawn. Of these, shrimps are the least
esteemed, and are sold at a low price. Prawns are sought after for
garnishing, and, generally speaking, are the dearest of all fish. The
crayfish is less common in this country than in France, where it is
employed to make the celebrated Bisque soup, and also largely for
garnish.
Of the bivalve shell-fish, oysters have the best reputation, both for
flavour and digestibility, and are for that reason given to invalids.
Cooking, especially at a great heat, hardens them, and so renders them
less digestible. The old saving is that oysters are in season when there
is an “ r ” in the month, i.e., from September to April, but so many
foreign oysters are now in the market that they are sold all the year
round. Mussels have been known to produce poisonous effects, but
the cause is not clearly known ; possibly it is due to the nature of their
food. Scallops are a comparatively cheap and not unpalatable food.
Whelks, periwinkles, cockles and limpets are eaten in enormous numbers
by the poorer classes, but are seldom cooked except by boiling.
Reptiles as food. — The green turtle is the only reptile that we appreci-
ate as a food, though many reptiles are eaten in different parts of
the world. Turtles sometimes weigh six or seven hundred lb., and are
imported into, and kept, in this country alive. Sun-dried turtle,
sold in pieces, is much cheaper than, and is a good substitute for,
fresh turtle. Tinned turtle is also sold, and extract of turtle is recom-
mended for invalids. These preparations can be bought in small
quantities, and are within the reach of many who could not procure
fresh turtle soup.
The edible frog (rana esculenta) is esteemed in many parts of Europe,
but has never been appreciated by English people. Only the hind legs
are eaten.
29S HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR PREPARING FISH.
In Preparing Fish of any kind, the first point to be attended to is to
see that it is perfectly clean. It is a common error to wash it too much,
as by doing so the flavour is diminished. The best way to clean fish
is to wipe it thoroughly with a clean damp cloth. If the fish is to be
boiled, a little salt and vinegar should be put into the water, to give
it firmness, after it is cleaned. In consequence of the amount of oil
certain fish contain, their liver and roes take longer to cook than the
flesh, and should be put into the saucepan before the fish if not cooked
separately. Fish, except salmon, should be put into warm water, and
cooked very gently, or the outside will break before the inner part
is done. Hot water should not be poured on to the fish, as it is liable
to break the skin; if it should be necessary to add a little water
whilst the fish is cooking, it ought to be poured in gently at the side of
the vessel. The fish-plate may be drawn up, to see if the fish be ready,
which may be known by its easily separating from the bone. When
done, it should be immediately taken out of the water, or it will become
woolly. The fish-plate should be set crossways over the kettle, to keep
hot for serving, and a cloth laid over the fish to prevent its losing its
colour. The exact temperature of the water, at the time of placing
the fish in the kettle, depends on the kind of fish to be cooked. If it
is too hot the skin breaks, and if it is cold much of the flavour is
lost Fish can scarcely cook too slowly; steaming is often better than
boiling.
Fish to be fried or broiled must be dried on a soft cloth, after it is
well cleaned and washed. Prior to frying, dip it lightly in flour,
brush it over with egg, and cover it with some fine crumbs of
bread. The fish after it is fried must be thoroughly drained and
freed from fat. A sheet of white paper must be placed to receive it,
in order that the superfluous greece is absorbed. It must also be
of a beautiful colour, and all the crumbs appear distinct. Butter in
frying gives a bad colour to fish ; lard and clarified dripping are
most frequently used, but oil is considered the best. The fish should
be put into the fat or oil when as hot as enough to immediately
harden the surface. There should be sufficient fat to well cover it.
When fish is broiled, it must be seasoned, floured, and laid on a very
clean gridiron, which, when hot, should be rubbed with a bit of suet,
to prevent the fish from sticking. It must be broiled over or before
a very clear fire, that it may not taste smoky ; and not too near,
that it may not be scorched. Fish may also be baked, stewed, and
made into soups. In choosing fish, it is well to remember that it
is possible it may be fresh and yet not good. In this work rules
are given for the choice of each particular fish, and the months
when it is in season. Nothing can be of greater consequence to a cook
than to have the fish good, as, if this important course in a dinner
does not give satisfaction, it is rarely that the repast goes off well.
FISH
2 99
Keeping Fish. — When fish is cheap and plentiful, and a larger quantity
is purchased than is immediately wanted, the overplus of such as will
bear it should be potted, or pickled or salted, and hung up; or it may
be fried, that it may serve for stewing the next day. Fresh-water
fish having frequently a muddy smell and taste, should be soaked in
strong salt and water, after it has been well cleaned. If of a sufficient
size, it may be scalded in salt and water, and then dried and dressed.
Cod-fish, whiting and haddock are none the worse for being a little
salted and kept a day; and unless the weather be very hot, they will
be good for two days.
Garnishing Fish requires great nicety. Plenty of parsley, horseradish,
lobster coral and lemon should be used. If fried parsley be used it
must be washed and picked, and thrown into fresh water. When the
lard or dripping is hot enough, squeeze the parsley dry in a cloth, and
throw it into the saucepan. It will bubble a good deal, and, therefore,
it is better to lift the pan from the fire. In a lew seconds the parsley
will be green and crisp, and must be taken up with a slice, if there is
no frying-basket. Well dressed, and with very good sauce, fish is,
by the generality of people, more appreciated than almost any other
dish. The liver and roe, in some instances, should be placed on the
dish, in order that they may be distributed in the course of serving; but
to each recipe is appended the proper mode of serving and garnishing.
AVERAGE PRICES OF FISH.
Many fail to realize the great loss by bone and uneatable matter
there is in most fish, and how much they pay for actual food ob-
tained.
As a general rule it should be borne in mind that, allowing for
bone, waste and loss of weight by different modes of cooking, only
about £ the original weight of the fish is left.
By consulting the following table it will be seen that such fish as
soles and smelts are very expensive, but some of the highest priced
fish or parts of fish are not always the dearest. Thus, for example,
a pound of flounders can be bought foi‘5d., but, by reason of the large
amount of bone they contain, they cost more than a pound of eels at
iod., while the so-called cheaper parts of salmon, yielding so much
less actual eatable matter, are in reality not so economical as the best.
Nothing is more difficult than to give the average prices of fish
and no other article of food varies so in price, inasmuch as a few hours
of bad weather at sea will, in the space of one day, cause such a differ-
ence in its supply, that the same fish — a turbot, for instance — which
may be bought to-day for six or seven shillings, will to-morrow be,
in the London markets, worth, perhaps, almost as many pounds.
The housewife when about to buy fish will be well advised not to set
out with the fixed intention of buying a certain kind of fish, but to be
guided in her selection by the state of the market. Often she will
3°°
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
find that some particular fish is scarce, and that in consequence it is
priced far beyond its worth, and quite out of comparison with the
prices of other kinds of fish which are plentiful in the market. The
average costs, therefore, which will be found appended to each recipe,
must be understood as about the average price for the different kinds
of fish under normal conditions, and when the various sorts are of an
average size and quality. The seasons for fish also slightly vary
with the year, it sometimes happening, for instance, that salmon is
at its cheapest and best a little earlier or later than usual. Oysters,
however, always come in and gc out at the same time, for from April
and May to the end of July oysters are said to be sick, but by the end
of August they become health}?, having recovered from the effects of
spawning. When they arc not in season the males have a black and
the females a milky substance in the gill. The average prices of fresh
water fish are not given. They are rarely quoted in the open market,
and are entirely influenced by local conditions.
NAME OF FISH.
HOW USUALLY COOKED.
AVERAGE PRICE.
Cod
Fried or Boi.ed
4-d. to td. per lb.
Cod (head and sh’ld'rs.)
Boiled
4d. per lb.
,, (steaks)
Fried or Boiled
fid. to 8d. per lb.
Conger Eel ....
Stewed ....
4d. per lb.
Crab
Usually sold cooked .
3d. to 3s. each.
Eels
Fried or stewed
iod. to is. per lb.
Flounders ....
Fried
6d. per lb.
Gurnet
Boiled
4d. per lb.
Haddock ....
Boiled or baked
4d. per lb.
Hake
F ried
4d. per lb.
Halibut
Boiled
8d. per lb.
Herring
Baked
8d. to is. per doz.
lohn Dory ....
Filleted ....
6d. per lb.
Ling
Boiled
4d. per lb.
Lobster
Usually sold cooked .
fid. to 3s. fid. each.
Mackerel ....
Boiled or broiled .
3d. to fid. each.
Mullet (red)
Fried
is. to is. fid. per lb.
(grey) . . .
Mussels
Fried
iod. per lb.
2d. per quart.
Oysters
—
6d. to 2s. fid. per doz.
Plaice
Prawns
Boiled or fried
6d. per lb.
is. 3d. per pint and
from is. per doz.
Salmon (head) .
Boiled
is. 4d. to 2S. per lb.
„ (middle) .
Fried
is. 3d. to 2S. per lb.
,, (tail) .
Boiled
is. iod. to 2s. fid. per lb.
Shad
Boiled
8d. per lb.
Skate
Boiled or fried
fid. per lb.
Smelts
Fried
is. 6d. per box.
Soles
Boiled or fried
is. to 2S. fid. per lb.
Trout
Boiled
is. to 2s. per lb.
Turbot ...
Boiled ....
Sd. to is. per lb.
Whiting ....
Fried .... 1
4d. per lb.
FISH
3°i
GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR COOKING FISH.
FreshWater Fish. — Of the various ways in which fresh-waler fish may
be cooked, boiling is the least suitable. Many varieties lack flavour,
others have peculiarities which render them disagreeable to some
persons, and should therefore be disguised by a liberal use of sea-
sonings, flavourings and sharp sauces.
Fish to Boil. — In boiling fish it is advisable to use a fish-kettle,
provided with a strainer, so that the fish can be gently lifted without
breaking. Failing this, the fish should be tied in muslin, and
placed on a plate at the bottom of a saucepan. Salmon and salmon
trout should be put into boiling salted water, to preserve their
colour; but other kinds of fish should be placed in warm water,
for boiling water has a tendency to break the skin, and cold
water extracts much of the flavour. Fish should always be
gently simmered after boiling point is reached, otherwise it is liable
to break. It should also be cooked in the smallest possible quantity
of water, which, when practicable, should afterwards form the basis
of a fish soup or fish sauce. Lemon-juice or vinegar should be added
to the water in which white fish is cooked, as it tends to increase its
whiteness. The time required for cooking depends more on the thick-
ness than the weight of the fish, but as soon as the bone separates
readily, the fish should be taken from the water and kept covered,
on the strainer, placed across the fish-kettle, until required. Fish,
when boiled, should always be served on a strainer covered with a
folded napkin. It is usually garnished with slices of lemon and tufts
of green parsley, a little additional colour being sometimes introduced
by means of lobster coral, prawns or crayfish.
Fish to Broil. — This method of cooking is an extremely simple
one when proper appliances are at hand, but when the only
means available are those usually found in middle-class kitchens,
some little difficulty may be experienced. A clean gridiron and
a clear fire are indispensable factors, and the former may be
easily secured by heating the gridiron, and afterwards rubbing
it repeatedly with soft paper until perfectly clean. No matter
how clear and bright the fire may appear, more or less smoke
will arise from it, but this may be checked to some extent by throwing
on a good handful of salt. Fish intended for grilling should be thor-
oughly dried, then brushed over with oil or oiled butter, and seasoned
with salt and pepper. Meat also needs to be slightly coated with oil
or butter, otherwise the surface may become dry. The gridiron must
be heated and rubbed over on both sides with suet or fat, to prevent
whatever is being cooked sticking to it. For the same reason it is
necessary to move the meat or fish occasionally, using meat-tongs
or a knife for the purpose, thus avoiding making holes through which
the juices could escape. Delicate fish is frequently enclosed in oiled
paper, and should then be served in the paper in which it was cooked.
302
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Fish, to Cure. — Empty, wash and scale the fish, and, if large, cut it
down the back. Rub it inside and out with common salt, and let it
hang in a cool place for 24 hours. Mix together 1 oz. of bay-salt, -§■
an oz. of saltpetre, -J- an oz. of brown sugar, and rub the fish well
with the preparation. Place it on a large dish, cover it lightly, but
completely, with salt, and allow it to remain undisturbed for 48
hours. Turn the fish over, cover it with fresh salt, and let it remain
for 24 hours longer. Drain and well dry the fish, stretch it on
sticks, and keep it in a dry, cool place. When kept for a great
length of time, it will be necessary to well soak the fish before cooking.
Fish, to Fillet. — The skin must be removed from both sides of a sole
before filleting, but the dark skin on the under side of a sole is nearly
always removed by the fishmonger. Plaice is frequently filleted with-
out removing the skin, although it is better to strip the dark skin off
the back. Whiting and haddocks are usually skinned, while mack-
erel are very seldom skinned before being filleted. When the fish
has been washed, dried and skinned, it should be placed flat on a
board or table, and with the point of a knife cut from head to tail
down the backbone. Next, insert the knife in the slit made, and
carefully separate the fish from the bone, keeping the knife pressed
lightly against the bone meanwhile. Remove the fillets, trim them
neatly, and cut them into pieces convenient for serving.
Fish, to Fry. — Fish to be fried should be well dried after wash-
ing, and it is usually cut into pieces convenient for serving.
Although very good results can be obtained by such simple means
as a frying-pan and a very small quantity of fat — providing
the fat be hot and the fish dry and slightly floured — a deep pan
containing sufficient fat to completely cover the fish is desirable.
Before frying, the fish should either be dipped into well-seasoned
batter or coated with egg and breadcrumbs, and in the latter
case it should first be rolled in a little flour seasoned with
salt and pepper, the object being to make it as dry as possible,
in order that the breadcrumbs may adhere more firmly. The fat
should be very hot at all times, but its temperature must be slightly
lower when frying fillets of fish than when frying such things as cro-
quettes, rissoles, etc., which are generally composed of cooked materials.
When the surface of a small piece of bread immediately hardens and
slightly changes its colour on being immersed in the fat, the tempera-
ture is right for raw materials or anything that is thickly coated with
batter, but when frying anything of which the exterior alone has to be
cooked, it is better to have the fat sufficiently hot to at once brown
whatever is immersed in it. Small things are nearly always fried in
a wire basket, but fillets of fish are dropped into the fat, and when
cooked, taken out on a fish slice. Anything fried should afterwards be
well drained, either on a cloth or kitchen paper. Fish is usually gar-
nished with lemon and parsley, croquettes and other dishes of the same
FISH
303
class with parsley alone, while fruit fritters should be liberally sprinkled
with sugar before serving.
Oil may be strongly recommended for frying, but clarified fat,
is more generally employed in ordinary households, and for
all frying purposes is preferable to lard, which is apt to impart an un-
pleasant fatty flavour. All fat after being used for frying should be
allowed to cool slightly, and afterwards strained into an earthenware
vessel. Or, after repeated use, it may be partially purified by straining
it into a basin of boiling water, when fragments of fish, breadcrumbs,
etc., will sink to the bottom, and may be scraped off as soon as the fat
hardens.
Fish, to Salt. — The following method of salting fish is particularly
suited to herrings, mackerel, and other small varieties. Choose fish
that is perfectly fresh, empty, scale and clean, but do not wash
them. Make a brine sufficiently strong to float an egg, put in the
fish, which should be completely covered, and let them remain in
the brine for 18 hours. When ready drain well, place them in layers
in an earthenware vessel, covering each layer thickly with salt.
Cover closely to completely exclude the air, and store in a cool, dry
place. The fish must be well soaked before cooking.
RECIPES FOR COOKING
FISH.
CHAPTER XII.
416. — ANCHOVIES, FRIED. (Fr.—. Anchois Frits.)
Ingredients. — 12 anchovies. For the batter : 3 ozs. of flour, J of a
pint of tepid water, 1 tablespoonful of salad-oil, or clarified butter,
the white of 1 egg, frying-fat.
Method. — Wipe the anchovies with a dry cloth. Sieve the flour, and
mix it into a smooth batter with the water and salad oil. Whip the
white of egg stiffly, and stir it lightly into the batter. Have ready a
deep pan of hot frying-fat; dip the anchovies carefully into the batter,
drop them into the hot fat, and fry until they acquire a golden-brown
colour. This dish is more suitable for a breakfast dish, hors d’oeuvre,
or savoury, than a dish to be served in the fish course of a dinner.
Time. — \ an hour. Average Cost, for this quantity, iod. Sufficient
for 2 or 3 if treated as a fish course, but enough for 6 or 7 if served as
hors d’oeuvre, or savoury. Seasonable all the year.
The Anchovy (Fr. anchois) is a small fish belonging to the Clupeidae or herring family. It fre-
quents the Mediterranean, the waters of the French and Dutch coasts, and the English Channel. It
was known to the Greeks and Romans, and esteemed by them as a delicacy. The anchovy fishery
is carried on during the months of May, June and July, the spawning season. Various sauces and
condiments are made from this fish.
417. — BARBEL. (Fr. — Barbeau.)
Ingredients. — 1 or 2 barbel, according to size, 2 anchovies, 2 onions
(sliced), 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, x tablespoonful of salt, the juice
of a lemon, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), mace and nut-
meg to taste.
Method. — Soak the fish in slightly salted water for 2 or 3 hours.
Put into a fish-kettle with warm water and the salt, and boil gently
until done. Take 1 pint of the water, and add to it the other
ingredients enumerated above. Simmer gently for about 15 minutes,
then strain, and return to the saucepan. Put in the fish, and let it
heat gradually in the sauce, but it must not boil again.
Time. — Altogether, 1 hour. Sufficient for 4 persons. Seasonable from
September to February.
304
FISH ENTREES
i. Cold Border of Salmon. 2. Mayonnaise Fish. 3. Timbale of Turbot.
12
RECIPES FOR COOKING FISH
305
Thi Barbel (Fr .barbeau). — This fish takes its name from the four filaments or barbules which fringe
its mo'qth, and serve as the organ of touch. In form and habits it much resembles the pike. The
body, v&fiich is rounded and elongated on its upper part, is olive-coloured and bluish on the sides ;
the tail \s of a purple tint. By means of its upper jaw, which is much longer than the lower, the
barbel is'enabled to burrow in the mud for worms and other food. It is common to most rivers,
and is abundant in the upper reaches of the Thames. The texture of its flesh is coarser than that
of the carp. Barbel and other fish inhabiting muddy waters should always be soaked in water,
slightly salted, for some time before cooking. If kept alive in clear water and fed with a little bran
or oatmeal the flavour is greatly improved.
418. — BLOATERS, BROILED.
Ingredients.— Bloaters.
Method. — Break off the head, split the back, remove the roe, and
take out the backbone. Place the fish, inside down, on a gridiron,
cook until they are nicely browned, then turn them over, and cook
the back. Or, if preferred, place 2 bloaters, the insides together, on a
gridiron, and broil over a clear fire. The roes should be cooked and
served with the bloaters.
Time. — 7 minutes. Average Cost, i|d. each. Seasonable from Sep-
tember to February.
419. — BREAM, BROILED. (Fr.— Breme Grille.)
Ingredients. — Bream, anchovy or other fish sauce.
Method. — Empty, wash and thoroughly dry the fish, but do not
scale it. Broil over a clear fire until thoroughly cooked and nicely
browned, then serve with anchovy, or other fish sauce.
Time. — To broil, about V an hour. Average Cost, 8d. to is. per lb.
Allow 6 to 8 oz. per head. Seasonable all the year.
The Char (Fr. umblc). — This is a fresh-water fish of the same genus as the salmon, and is much
esteemed. It is plentiful in the deeper lakes of England, Wales and Ireland. It also occurs in Euro-
1 pean lakes, the Lake of Geneva being especially celebrated for its char, called the ombre chevalier.
! The char, which somewhat resembles the trout, but is longer and more slender, has a dark olive-
i coloured back, with sides of a lighter hue, and is coloured with crimson and white spots, the colours
varying with the season. When spawning in the autumn or winter, it ascends the rivers.
420. — BREAM, BAKED. (FY.— Breme cuit au four.)
Ingredients. — Bream, fish forcemeat, No. 415, fat for basting, an-
chovy or other fish sauce.
Method. — Empty, wash and dry the fish, but do not scale it. Make
the forcemeat as directed, stuff the inside of the fish, and sew up the
opening neatly. Bake in a moderate oven from 40 to 50 minutes,
basting occasionally with sweet dripping. Serve with anchovy or other
fish sauce. If preferred, the forcemeat may be omitted, and the fish
wrapped in buttered paper and baked slowly for about J- an hour.
Time. — From 40 to 50 minutes. Average Cost, from 8d. to is. per lb.
Allow 6 to 8 ozs. per head. Seasonable all the year.
421. — BRILL A LA CONTE. (Fr — Barbue a la Conte.)
Ingredients. — A brill weighing about 2\ lb., pints of stock, 1 glass
of Burgundy, a teaspoonful of finely chopped parsley, salt and pepper.
306
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Clean and skin the fish, and cut some slits down the back.
Add the wine, salt and pepper to the stock; when warm put in the fish,
and simmer gently until done. Take up the fish and keep it hot; boil
the stock rapidly until reduced to half its original quantity, then add
the parsley, and pour over the fish.
Time. — 15 minutes. Average Cost. — 2s. 6d. Sufficient for 6 persons.
Seasonable from August to April.
To Choose Brill. — -The flesh of this fish, like that of turbot, should be of a yellowish tint, and
should be chosen on account of its thickness. If the flesh has a bluish tin t, it is not good.
422. — BRILL. (Fr. — Barbue.)
Ingredients. — 1 brill, salt and vinegar to taste.
Method. — Clean the brill, cut off the fins, and rub it over with a little
lemon-juice to preserve its whiteness. Barely cover the fish with
warm water, add salt and vinegar, and simmer gently until done (about
10 or 1 5 minutes for a small fish). Garnish with cut lemon and parsley,
and serve with one of the following sauces : lobster sauce, shrimp sauce,
Hollandaise sauce, or melted butter.
Time.— From 10 to 20 minutes, according to size. Average Cost,
from 8d. to iod. per lb. Seasonable at any time, but best from August
to April.
The Brill (Fr. barbue ) is a species of “ flat-fish,” belonging to the same genus as the turbot, which
it resembles, but distinguished from it by the perfect smoothness of its skin and its less breadth. It
is sandy-coloured or reddish-brown on its upper side, with yellowish or reddish spots. The brill
averages about 7 lb. in weight, and is esteemed as a table-fish.
423. — CARP, BAKED. ( Fr . — Carpe Farcie.)
Ingredients. — 1 carp. For the forcemeat : 8 sauce oysters, 3 an-
chovies boned, 2 tablespoonfuls of breadcrumbs, 1 teaspoonful of finely-
chopped parsley, 1 shallot finely-chopped, yolk of 1 egg, cayenne, salt.
For coating the fish : 1 egg and breadcrumbs. For the sauce : of a
pint of good stock, 1 oz. of butter, 1 tablespoonful of flour, half a table-
spoonful of Worcester sauce, a tablespoonful of lemon-juice, a tea-
spoonful of made mustard. Butter for basting.
Method. — Clean and scale the fish; remove the beards of the oysters,
and simmer them for 15 minutes in a little fish stock or water. Cut the
oysters into small pieces, but do not cook them; also cut the anchovies
into very small pieces. Mix breadcrumbs, oysters, anchovies, parsley,
shallot and seasoning, add the yolk of egg, the liquor of the oysters,
and the stock in which the oyster-beards were simmered. Put the
forcemeat inside the fish, and sew up the opening; brush over with egg,
and cover with breadcrumbs. Place in a baking-dish and cook gently
for about 1 hour, basting frequently with hot butter. Melt the butter,
stir in the flour, add the stock, and stir until the sauce boils. Simmer
for 2 to 3 minutes, then add the mustard, lemon-juice, Worcester
sauce, and the gravy (strained) from the tin in which the fish was
cooked. Garnish the fish with cut lemon and parsley, and serve the
sauce in a tureen.
RECIPES FOR COOKING FISH 30 7
lime. — From i| to x\ hours. Average Cost, 2s. 3d. Sufficient for 4
or 5 persons. Seasonable from November to [March.
Note. — The fish may also be stuffed with ordinary veal forcemeat.
The Carp (Fr. carpe). — This species of fresh water fish, which forms the special type of the family
Cypnnidae to which the barbels, tenches and breams belong, occurs throughout Europe, and fre-
quents fresh and quiet waters and slow-running rivers. It feeds chiefly on worms and aquatic plants.
During the winter it buries in the mud. The mouth of the carp is small, the jaw’s toothless, the body
smooth and of an olive-green and yellowish colour, and arched and compressed, the scales large ;
the gills are formed of three flat rays, and there is but one dorsal fin. The carp is one of the earliest
known fish in England. It was much preserved in ponds by the monks, for table use. The carp is
very prolific and attains to a great age — to 100 years and even longer. The flavour of the carp is
influenced by the character of its habitat. The well-known gold fish ( Cyprinus auratus), supposed
to be a native of China, is allied to the common carp.
424. — CARP, BAKED. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 1 carp, 3 tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, or clarified butter,
I tablespoonful of Worcester sauce, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice,
1 tablespoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 1 dessertspoonful of finely-
chopped onion, salt, cayenne. For the sauce : f of a pint of milk,
1^- ozs. of flour, i|- ozs. of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of coarsely-chopped
gherkins, salt and pepper.
Method. — Wash, scale, and clean the fish, and place it in an earthen-
ware baking-dish. [Mix together the salad-oil, Worcester sauce,
lemon-juice, parsley, onion, season well with salt and cayenne, pour
this mixture over the fish, and let it remain in it for at least 2 hours,
basting at frequent intervals. Cover with a greased paper ; bake
gently for about 1 hour, and baste well. When it is nearly done,
melt the butter in a stewpan, stir in the flour, add the milk, bring
to the boil, and simmer for 5 or 6 minutes. Place the fish on a hot
dish, strain the gravy in the tin into the sauce, add the gherkins, season
to taste, and pour over the fish.
Time. — To bake, 1 hour. Average Cost, 2s. to 2s. 3d. Sufficient for
4 or 5 persons. Seasonable from November to March.
425. — CARP, FRIED. (Fr. — Carpe Frite.)
Ingredients. — 1 carp of medium size, butter or fat for frying, vinegar
salt and pepper, flour.
Method. — Soak the fish 1 hour in salt and water, then split it open,
lay it flat, and remove the gall-stone from the head. Dry
well, sprinkle with salt and cayenne, dredge with flour, and fry in hot
butter or fat until nicely browned. Garnish with cut lemon and the roe
fried, and serve with anchovy sauce, No. 288.
Time. — To cook, from 20 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, is. 3d. to is. 6d.
Sufficient for 2 or 3 persons. Seasonable from November to March.
426. — CARP, FRIED. (Fr. — Carpe Frite.) (Another
Method.)
Ingredients. — 1 carp, 2 ozs. of butter, 1 tablespoonful of finely-chopped
3°8
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
onion, i dessertspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, \ a teaspoonful
of powdered mixed herbs, i good pinch of ground mace, salt and pepper,
2 lemons, flour, frying-fat.
Method. — Wash and clean the fish, and cut it into fillets of convenient
size for serving. Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the onion, parsley,
herbs, mace, the juice of \ lemon, and a good seasoning of salt and
pepper. Have the fillets of fish as dry as possible, put them into the
stewpan 2 or 3 at a time, and fry them very gently for 10 or 15 minutes.
Drain well, and when cool dredge with flour mixed with a little salt and
pepper, and fry in hot fat or butter until nicely browned. Garnish
with slices of lemon, and serve with cut lemon.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 2s. to 2s. 6d. Sufficient for 3
or 4 persons. Seasonable from November to March.
427. — CARP, Stewed. (Fr. — Carpe en Ragout.)
Ingredients. — 1 large carp, 1 pint of stock, 1 glass of claret, 1 table-
spoonful of flour, 12 small button mushrooms, 2 ozs. butter, 2 or 3
small onions, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), a good
pinch of grated nutmeg, salt and pepper.
Method. — Wash the fish in vinegar and water, and cut it into thick
slices. Slice the onions, fry them until brown in about 2 ozs. of
hot butter, then put in the stock, wine, mushrooms, herbs, nutmeg and
seasoning, and, when warm, add the fish, and simmer gently for 30 or
40 minutes. Take out the fish and keep it hot. Have ready the flour
and the remainder of the butter kneaded to a smooth paste, add it to
the contents of the stewpan, and simmer and stir until the sauce is
cooked smoothly. Place the fish on a hot dish, strain the sauce over, and
garnish with the mushrooms (heated in sauce), fried roe, and sippets of
toast.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 2s. 3d. Sufficient for 5 or 6
persons. Seasonable from November to March.
Note. — This fish can be boiled plain, and served with parsley and butter
sauce. Chub, char, dace and roach may be cooked in the same manner as the
above.
The Chub (Fr. chabot ) resembles the carp, but is somewhat longer. It is found in most English
rivers ; the body is oblong and nearly round, bluish-black on the upper parts, and silvery white be-
neath, the head and gill-covers are yellow. The flesh is somewhat coarse, and is not much esteemed
as a table-fish ; the head and throat are the best parts. There are allied American species of the
same name. The scales of the chub were formerly used in in-laying work.
428. — COD. ( Fr . — Cabillaud.)
Cod may be boiled whole; but a large head and shoulders are quite
sufficient for a dish, and contain all that is usually served, because,
when the thick part is done, the tail is insipid and overdone. The
latter, however, cut in slices, makes a very good dish for frying, or it
may be salted and served with egg sauce and parsnips. Cod, when
RECIPES FOR COOKING FISH
309
boiled quite fresh, is watery; salted a little, it is rendered firmer. The
liver is considered a delicacy, and a piece should, if possible, be bought
and cooked with the fish.
429. — COD, CURRIED. (Fr. — Cabillaud au Kari.)
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of cod, 1 pint of white stock (fish or meat), 2 ozs.
of butter, 1 tablespoonful of flour, 1 dessertspoonful of curry-powder,
1 medium-sized onion, salt and pepper, cayenne, a tablespoonful of
lemon-juice.
Method. — Wash and dry the cod, and cut it into pieces about i\
inches square. Melt the butter in a stewpan, fry the cod slightly,
then take out and set aside. Add the sliced onion, flour, and curry-
powder to the butter in the stewpan, and fry 15 minutes, stirring con-
stantly to prevent the onion becoming too brown, then pour in the
stock, stir until it boils, and afterwards simmer gently for 20 minutes.
Strain and return to the saucepan, add lemon-juice and seasoning to
taste, bring nearly to boiling point, then put in the fish, cover closely,
and draw aside for about \ an hour, or until the fish becomes thoroughly
impregnated with the flavour of the sauce. An occasional stir must
be given to prevent the fish sticking to the bottom of the stewpan.
The remains of cold fish may be used, in which case the preliminary
frying may be omitted.
Time. — 1-|- hours. Average Cost, from is. od. to 2s. Sufficient for
5 or 6 persons. Seasonable from November to March.
Cod, to Choose. — The cod should be chosen for the table when it is plump and round near the
tail, the hollow behind the head deep, and the sides undulated as if they were ribbed. The glu-
tinous parts about the head lose their delicate flavour after the fish has been 24 hours out of the
water. The great point by which the cod sheuld be judged is the firmness of its flesh ; if this rise
immediately after pressure the fish is good ; if not, it is stale. Another sign of its goodness
is the bronze appearance of the fish, when it is cut, resembling the silver-side of a round of beef.
If this is visible, the flesh will b: firm when cooked. Stiffness in a cod, or in any other fish, is a sure
sign of freshness, though not always of quality.
430. — COD, HASHED. (Fr. — Rechauffe de Cabillaud.)
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of cooked cod, 2 ozs. of butter, ih ozs. flour, 1 pint
milk, \ pint picked shrimps, pepper and salt, mashed potatoes, chopped
parsley.
Method. — Blend the butter and flour in a stewpan, and fry for a few
minutes without allowing them to colour. Add the milk, and stir until
boiling. Put in the cod, flaked into small pieces, and the shrimps.
Cook these together until thoroughly hot, and season carefully.
Make a deep border of mashed potatoes on a hot dish. Pour
the hash in the centre, and sprinkle a little chopped parsley over the
top.
Time. — \ an hour. Average Cost is. iod. to 2s. Sufficient for 4 or
5 persons. Seasonable from November to March.
3io
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
43I. — COD’S HEAD AND SHOULDERS. (Fr.— Hure
de Cabillaud.)
Ingredients. — Cod’s head and shoulders, salt, lemon.
Method. — Cleanse the fish thoroughly, and rub a little salt over the
thick part and inside the fish i or 2 hours before dressing it, as this
very much improves the flavour. Lay it in the fish-kettle, with sufficient
hot water to cover it. Be very particular not to pour the water on
the fish as it is liable to break, and keep it only just simmering. If the
water should boil away, add a little, pouring it in at the side of the
kettle, and not on the fish. Skim very carefully, draw it to the side
of the fire, and let it gently simmer till done. Garnish with cut lemon,
and serve with either oyster or caper sauce.
Time. — 20 to 35 minutes, according to size. Average Cost, from 4d.
to 9d. per lb. Allow 3 lb. for 6 persons. Seasonable from November to
March.
The Cod (Fr. cabillaud ) is a member of the family Gadidac , to which the haddocks, whitings and
ling belong, characterized by long gills, seven rayed ventral fins attached beneath the throat, large
median fins, and a cirrhus , or small beard, at the tip of the lower jaw. The body is oblong, smooth,
and covered with small soft scales. The fins are enclosed in skin, and their rays are unarmed ; the
ventral fins are slender and terminate in a point ; the median fins are large. The cod has three dorsal
and two anal fins, It is a gregarious fish, and abounds in the colder waters of the seas of Europe and
Newfoundland. The cod is caught by hand lines and hooks, baited with cuttle fish and shell-fish
of various kinds, chiefly on the great banks of Newfoundland. The sounds of the codfish (Fr. nau
de morue), or the swim-bladders, by means of which the fish ascepd or descend in the water, are taken
out of the fish, washed, and salted for exportation. The tongues are also cured, while from the liver
considerable quantities of oil are obtained. This, the well-known cod liver oil, under its designation
of “ white,” “ pale,” and “ brown,” is largely used in cases of consumption, its easily assimilated
and nutritive qualities rendering it valuable in wasting diseases. Its chief constituents are olein,
palmitin, stearin, acetic, butyric, and other acids.
432— COD’S LIVER MINCED AND BAKED.
(Fr. — Foie de Cabillaud au Gratin.)
Ingredients. — A cod’s liver, 12 sauce oysters, J of a pint of white
sauce, butter, breadcrumbs, salt and pepper.
Method. — Parboil the liver and cut it into small pieces. Blanch
the oysters in their own liquor, which afterwards strain and add to the
white sauce. Halve or quarter the oysters, mix them with the pre-
pared liver, and season to taste. Place the mixture in buttered scallop
shells, add a little sauce, cover lightly with breadcrumbs, and on the
top place 2 or 3 small pieces of butter. Bake in a moderately hot oven
for 10 or 13 minutes, then serve.
Time — To bake, about 10 minutes. Average Cost is. 6d. to is. 9d.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 scallops. Seasonable from November to March.
433. — COD’S LIVER, QUENELLES OF.
(Fr. — Quenelles de Foie de Cabillaud.)
Ingredients. — a lb. of cod’s liver, 2 tablespoonfuls of bread-
RECIPES FOR COOKING FISH 3«
crumbs, i tcaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, the yolks of 2 or 3 eggs
salt and pepper.
Method. — Wash and dry the liver, chop it finely, and mix with it
the breadcrumbs and parsley. Add sufficient yolk of egg to bind
the whole together, taking care not to make the mixture too moist.
Season to taste, shape into quenelles (see “ Quenelles of Veal ”), poach
until firm, and serve with a suitable sauce.
Time. — To poach, from 10 to 1 5 minutes. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Seasonable from November till March.
434. — COD PIE. (Fr. — Pate de Cabillaud.)
Ingredients. — ib lb. of cold cod, 1 doz. oysters (tinned may be used)
■§■ a pint of melted butter sauce, £ a lb. of short paste, or mashed
potatoes, salt and pepper, nutmeg.
Method. — Take off the beards of the oysters, simmer them for a few
minutes in a little water, then strain and mix with the oyster
liquor (from fresh oysters). Cut the oysters into 2 or 4 pieces, accord*
ing to size ; divide the fish into large flakes, put half of it into the dish,
lay the oysters on the top, season with salt and pepper, grate on a little
nutmeg, add the melted butter sauce, and cover with the rest of the
fish. Make the short crust paste according to directions given for
short crust paste. Or, when a potato covering is preferred, season the
potato with salt and pepper, and warm and stir in a saucepan, witli
a small piece of butter, and 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of milk. Bake
about ^ an hour in a moderate oven.
Time. From 1 to 1^ hours. Average Cost, is. 9d. to 2S. Sufficient
for s or 6 persons. Seasonable from November to March.
435. — COD, PROVENCALE STYLE. (Fr. — Cabillaud
a la Provengale.)
Ingredients.— About 2 lb. of cod-fish (middle cut),£ a pint of Velout6
sauce, 1 gill white wine, 2 small shallots (chopped fine), 1 gill white
stock, 2 ozs. butter, yolks of 2 eggs, 1 teaspoonful of anchovy-paste,
2 teaspoonfuls of capers, 1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley, a small
bunch of parsley and herbs (bouquet-garni).
Method. — Wash and wipe the fish well, place it in a stewpan, season
with pepper and salt, and add Veloute sauce, white wine, stock, chopped
shallots, and bouquet-garni. Set it to simmer slowly until the fish
is done, basting occasionally. Put the fish on a dish, and keep warm.
Reduce the sauce until the desired consistency is obtained. Remove
the herbs, add the yolks of eggs, work in the butter, and pass the
312
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
ingredients through a tammy cloth or strainer. Return to a smaller
stewpan, add the anchovy-paste, chopped parsley and capers, stir a
few minutes over the fire, and pour over the fish.
Average Cost. — 2S. 6d. to 3s. Suflicient for 5 or 6 persons. Season-
able from November to March.
436. — COD RECHAUFFE. (Fr.— Cabillaud.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of cooked cod, a pint of white sauce, No. 222,
1 teaspoonful of mushroom sauce, \ a teaspoonful of anchovy-essence,
+ a teaspoonful of mixed mustard, butter, breadcrumbs, salt and
pepper.
Method. — Free the fish from skin and bones, and separate it into large
flakes. Make the sauce as directed, add the mushroom sauce, anchovy-
essence, mustard, and salt and pepper to taste, put in the fish, mix
well together, then turn the whole into a well-buttered fireproof baking-
dish. Cover the surface lightly with breadcrumbs, add a few pieces
of butter, bake in the oven until well browned, then serve in the
dish.
Time. — To bake, about 15 minutes. Average Cost, 8d. to iod., exclu-
sive of the fish. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable from November
to March.
437. — COD’S ROE. (Fr. — Laitance de Cabillaud.)
Ingredients. — Cod’s roe, melted butter (No. 202), or white sauce
No. 222, cream, brown breadcrumbs, salt, vinegar.
Method. — Wash and wipe the cod’s roe, and boil for 10 minutes in
water with a little salt and vinegar. Cut into dice, and put into some
melted butter made with cream or white sauce. Butter a scallop tin,
put in the roe, cover with brown breadcrumbs, and brown in the oven,
or serve it on hot buttered toast. It is often used as garnish to other
fish.
Time. — \ an hour. Average Cost, is. Seassnable in the Winter.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
438. — COD’S ROE. ( Fr . — Laitance de Cabillaud.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of cod’s roe, 1 egg, breadcrumbs, frying-fat.
Method. — Boil the roe for 15 minutes, then drain and cut it into
slices. When cold, brush over with egg, roll in breadcrumbs, and fry,
until nicely browned, in hot fat.
Time. — From 35 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, 8d. to iod. Sufficient
for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable from November to March.
RECIPES FOR COOKING FISH
313
439. — COD SOUNDS. {Fr. — Nau de Morue.)
Method. — These, salted, as they are generally bought, should be
soaked in milk and water for several hours, and then boiled in milk
and water until tender, when they should be drained and served with
egg sauce. When suitably dressed, they may be served as an entree
or breakfast dish.
Average Cost. — 6d. Seasonable from November to March.
440. — COD SOUNDS WITH FRENCH SAUCE.
( Fr . — Nau de Morue, Sauce Franqaise.)
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of cod sounds. For the batter : f- of a pint of milk,
3 tablespoonfuls of flour, 1 egg, \ a teaspoonful of salt. For the
marinade (or brine) : 2 tablespoonfuls each of salad-oil and vinegar,
1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped shallot or onion, 1 teaspoonful of finely-
chopped parsley, a good sprinkling of pepper, frying-fat.
Method. — Soak and boil the sounds as directed in the preceding
recipe, and cut them into pieces about 2 inches square. Mix the oil,
vinegar, parsley, onion and pepper, pour over the sounds, and let them
remain in the marinade for 1 hour, turning the pieces of sound at the
end of \ an hour in order that both sides may absorb the flavour of
the marinade. Make a batter of the milk, flour, egg and salt, dip each
piece of sound into it, take out on the point of a skewer, drop into hot
fat, and fry until nicely browned.
Time. — 1^ to 2 hours. Average Cost, about is. 6d. Sufficient for 6 or 7
persons. Seasonable from November to March.
441. — COD SOUNDS A LA MAITRE D’HOTEL.
{Fr. — Nau de Morue a la Maitre d’Hotel.)
Ingredients.— 2 lbs. of cod sounds, 4 ozs. of butter, 1 tablespoonful of
lemon-juice, 1 dessertspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 1 teaspoonful
of finely-chopped onion, pepper.
Method. — Soak and boil the sounds, and cut them into small pieces.
Melt the butter, fry the onion for 2 or 3 minutes without browning,
then put in the lemon-juice, parsley, a good sprinkling of pepper,
and the fish. Make hot, and serve.
Time. — About 1 hour, after soaking. Average Cost, is. 6d. Sufficient
for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable from November to March.
442. — COD SOUNDS WITH PIQUANTE SAUCE.
{Fr. — Nau de Morue, Sauce Piquante.)
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of cod sounds, of a pint of piquante sauce. No.
265.
3i4
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Soak and boil the sounds, and cut them into small pieces.
Make the sauce as directed, put in the pieces of sound, make hot, and
serve.
Time. — About i hour, after soaking. Average Cost, from is. 3d. to
is. Cd. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable from November to
March.
443. — COD STEAKS. (Fr. — Tranche de Cabillaud.)
Ingredients. — f-inch slices cut from a medium or small cod, flour,
salt and pepper, frying-fat, parsley.
Method. — Make a rather thin batter of flour and water, and season
it well with salt and pepper. Melt sufficient clarified fat or dripping
in a frying-pan to form a layer about \ an inch in depth. Wash and
dry the fish, dip each piece separately in the batter, place these at once
in the hot fat, and fry them until of alight-brown, turning once during
the process. Drain well, and serve garnished with crisply-fried parsley.
If preferred, the fish may be coated with egg and breadcrumbs, and fried
in deep fat. Anchovy, tomato, or any other fish sauce would form a
suitable accompaniment.
Time. — To fry, from 10 to 15 minutes. Average Cost, from 4d. to 8d.
per lb. Seasonable from November to March.
444. — COD WITH CREAM. (Fr.— Cabillaud a la
Creme.)
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of cod, 3 ozs. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, \ a pint of
white stock (or milk), 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, 1 teaspoonful of
lemon-juied, salt and pepper.
Method. — Wash, and dry the fish thoroughly. Melt 2 ozs. of the
butter in a stewpan, put in the cod, and fry quickly on both sides
without browning. Add the stock, cover closely, and simmer gently
for about 20 minutes, then place on a hot dish. Melt the remaining
oz. of butter, stir in the flour, add the stock in which the fish was
cooked, and enough milk to make up the original quantity (£ a pint),
boil up, and simmer for about 10 minutes to cook the flour. Add the
cream and lemon-juice, season to taste, and strain over the fish.
Time. — About 40 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. to 2s. 6d. Sufficient
for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable from November to March.
445. — COD WITH CREAM. (Fr. — Cabillaud a la
Creme.)
Ingredients.— 2 lb. of cod, i-J- ozs. of butter, 1^ ozs. of flour, J of a pint
of white stock or milk, 3 tablespoonfuls of cream, 1 teaspoonful of
lemon-juice, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 1 teaspoonful of
finely-chopped onion, salt and pepper.
RECIPES FOR COOKING FISH
3i5
Method. — Wash the cod and boil it in a very small quantity of water,
which afterwards may be used for the sauce. Melt the butter, fry the
onion a few minutes without browning, add the flour, cook for ten
minutes, then pour in the stock and stir until it boils. Simmer for a few
minutes, then add the lemon-juice, parsley, seasoning, cream, and
when well mixed put in the fish. Draw the saucepan to the side of
the stove for about 10 minutes, then dish, and serve.
Time. — About 30 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. to 2s. 6d. Sufficient for
5 or 6 persons. Seasonable from November to March.
446. — COD WITH PARSLEY BUTTER.
(Fr. — Cabillaud a la Maitre d’Hotel.)
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of cod (cold remains will serve), 4 ozs. of butter
1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped onion, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped
parsley, the juice of \ a lemon, pepper.
Method. — Boil the cod, and afterwards separate into large flakes. Melt
the butter in a stewpan, add the onion, and fry for 2 or 3 minutes
without browning ; then put in the parsley, lemon-juice, a good pinch
of pepper, and the fish. Shake gently over the fire until quite hot,
then serve.
Time. — 30 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. to 2s. 6d. Sufficient
for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable from November to March.
447. — COD WITH ITALIAN SAUCE. (Fr.— Cabillaud
a 1’Italienne.)
Ingredients. — 2 slices of crimped cod, f- of a pint of Italian sauce
(No. 252).
Method. — Boil the cod, take out the middle bone, remove the skin,
and place on a hot dish. Make the sauce according to directions
given, strain over the fish, and serve.
Time. — From 1 to i£ hours. Average Cost, 2s. to 2s. 6d. Sufficient for
5 or 6 persons. Seasonable from November to March.
448. — CRAB SALAD. (Fr. — Salade de Crabe.)
Ingredients. — 1 medium-sized crab, 1 hard-boiled egg, 3 tablespoonfuls
of salad-oil, 1 tablespoonful of vinegar, 1 good lettuce, 1 bunch of
watercress, a few slices of pickled beetroot, a tomato, pepper and salt.
Method. — Pick the meat from the shell and shred it finely. Wash and
dry the lettuce, and either break or cut it into small pieces ; wasli and
pick the cress, and break it into small pieces ; cut the tomato into thin
slices. Mix the oil, vinegar, salt and pepper, put in the salad, stir
lightly until thoroughly mixed, then add the crab, mix well, and
garnish with the slices of beetroot and tomato, rings of white of egg,
and the yolk, previously rubbed through a wire sieve.
316
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Average Cost. — is. 6cl. to 2S. Sufficient tor 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable
from April to October.
449. — CRAB, SCALLOPED. (. Fr . — Crabe en Coauillc.)
Ingredients. — 1 or 2 crabs, cream, vinegar, breadcrumbs, salt and
pepper, mustard.
Method. — Remove the meat from the claws and body, taking care
to leave the unwholesome part near the head. Add about \ its bulk
in tine breadcrumbs, season to taste with salt, pepper and mustard,
and stir in a few drops of vinegar. Add cream until the right con-
sistency is obtained, then turn into buttered scallop shells, and sprinkle
the surface lightly with breadcrumbs. Place small pieces of butter
on the top, and bake in a moderate oven until nicely browned.
Time. — To bake, about 20 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. to 3s. Sufficient,
2 crabs for 8 or 9 scallops. Seasonable from April to October.
The Crad (Fr. crabe). -The popular name for many genera of the Crustacea , constituting the sub-
order Brachyura , “ short-tailed,” which includes the true crabs, order Decapoda , “ ten-limbed,"
and distinguished from the lobster by the shortness of the tail, which is folded under the broadened-
out body, the latter being covered with a strong carapace or shell. The gills are placed in the sides
of the body, and are popularly known as “ dead men’s lingers.” The liver is composed of a soft rich
yellow substance, called the “ fat.” The mouth has several pairs of powerful jaws, and the stomach
is furnished with hard projections by means of which the crab grinds its food, consisting chiefly of
vegetable matter and molluscae. The front pair of legs form nipping claws, which are renewed when
injured or lost. The eyes are compound and movable. The majority of crabs live in the sea, but
there are some fresh-water species, and others which live on land, but go to the sea to spawn. After
hatching, the young of the crab passes through two stages. In the first, it is free-swimming and
possesses a tail ; in the second stage, it is also tailed, but after moulting it loses its tail and becomes
the perfect crab. A remarkable feature in the life-history of the crab is the changing of its shell,
to permit its growth, and the reproduction, as noticed above, of injured claws. Annually, usually
during the winter, the crab retires to a cavity in the rocks or beneath a great stone, and conceals
itself until the new shell, which at first is very soft, becomes hardened. The Hermit Crab derives
its name from its habit of taking possession of the deserted shell of some mollusc, the hermit crab
having no shell of its own. The crab is much esteemed, and forms an important fishery on the British
coasts.
450. — CRAB, TO DRESS. (Fr. — Crabe or Ecrevisse
de Mer.)
Ingredients. — 1 medium sized crab, 1 hard-boiled egg, 2 tablespoon-
fuls of vinegar, 2 tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, salt and pepper, cayenne.
Method. — Empty the shells, mix the meat with the vinegar and oil,
and season well. Clean the large shell, put in the mixture and garnish
with slices of lemon, parsley, and egg, the yolk rubbed through a wire
sieve and the white coarsely-chopped.
Average Cost. — iod. to is. 6d. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Season-
able from April to October.
To Choose Crabs.— Crabs of medium size are the best, and, like lobsters, should be judged by
their weight.
451. — CRAB, DRESSED. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 1 medium-sized crab, 3 tablcspoonfuh of salad-oil, 2
RECIPES FOR COOKING FISH 317
tablespoonfuls of vinegar, breadcrumbs, pepper and salt. For garnish-
ing : lobster coral, butter, hard-boiled egg, or parsley.
Method. — Pick the meat from the shell, flake it into small shreds, and
add to it the same proportion of finely-grated breadcrumbs. Season
to taste with pepper and salt, then mix well with the oil, and lastly
the vinegar. Carefully wash and dry the shell and put in the mixture,
garnishing with lobster coral, butter, or hard-boiled egg and parsley.
Ate.-age Cost. — is. 6d. to 2s. Sufficient for 4 persons. Seasonable
from April to October.
452. — CRAB, DEVILLED. (Fr.~ Crabe a la Diable.)
Ingredients. — 1 medium-sized crab, J of a pint of thick white sauce,
I dessertspoonful of anchovy-essence, 1 dessertspoonful of chutney,
1 teaspoonful of vinegar (preferably chilli), 1 teaspoonful of made
mustard, 1 dessertspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, cayenne, salt
and pepper, brown breadcrumbs.
Method. — Pick the meat from the shells, and put one claw aside.
Mix together the white sauce, anchovy-essence, chutney, vinegar,
and mustard, season well with salt, pepper and cayenne, then add the
crab, except the one claw. Clean the shell, put in the mixture, covor
lightly with browned breadcrumbs, and bake in a moderately hot oven
for about 15 minutes. In the meantime separate the meat of the
remaining claw into fine flakes, and warm between two plates either
in the oven or over a saucepan of boiling water. Remove the crab
from the oven, and garnish with the flaked claw and the chopped
parsley.
Time.— 1 hour. Average Cost, from is. to 2s. Sufficient for 3 or 4
persons. Seasonable from April to October.
453. — CRAB, HOT. (Fr. — Crabe au Gratin.)
Ingeiients. — 1 medium-sized crab, 2 ozs. of butter, 2 ozs. of bread-
crumbs, 3 tablespoonfuls of white sauce, 1 tablespoonful of vinegar,
nutmeg, salt and pepper, browned breadcrumbs.
Method. — Pick the meat from the shell, season well with salt and
pepper, add a little nutmeg, the butter slightly warmed, the white
sauce, vinegar, and breadcrumbs, and mix these well together. Have
ready the shell, washed and dry, put in the mixture, cover with a thin
layer of browned breadcrumbs, add 3 or 4 small pieces of butter, and
bake for 10 or 15 minutes in a brisk oven.
Tine. — 1 hour. Average Cost, is. to is. 9d. Sufficient for 3 or 4
persons, Seasonable from April to October.
454. — CRAB OR LOBSTER, POTTED.
Ingredient!. — 2 crabs or lobsters, £ of a pint of cream, 2 ozs. of butter,
3 yolks of eggs, salt and pepper, cayenne, clarified butter.
3i8
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Pick the meat from the shells, chop it finely, and then put
it into a stewpan with the butter and seasoning, and cook slowly for
20 minutes. Add the cream and yolks of eggs, stir, cook by the
side of the fire until the mixture has the consistency of thick paste,
then rub through a fine sieve, press into pots, and when cold cover with
clarified butter.
Time. — From 40 to 60 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. to 3s. Seasonable
at any time.
455* — CRAB, POTTED. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 2 crabs, salt, cayenne, mace, clarified butter (from
4 to 5 ozs.).
Method. — Pick the meat from the shells, pound it in a mortar with
the seasoning, rub through a fine sieve, press it into small pots, cover
with melted butter, and bake in a moderately hot oven for \ an hour.
When cold, cover each pot with clarified butter.
Time. — From 40 to 60 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. to 2s. Suffi-
cient for 2 or 3 pots. Seasonable at any time.
456. — CRAYFISH, POTTED. ( Fr . — Ecrevisses en
Terrine.)
1 Ingredients. — 4 doz. live crayfish, 4- a lb. of butter, ground mace, salt
and pepper.
Method. — Put the crayfish into boiling water to which has been added
a good seasoning of salt and a little vinegar, cook from 15 to 20
minutes, then drain and dry. Pick the meat from the shells, and pound
it in a mortar to a fine paste, adding gradually the butter, and mace,
salt and pepper to taste. Press into small pots, cover with clarified
butter, and when cold, use.
Average Cost. — is. to is. 3d. per dozen. Seasonable all the year.
The Dace (Fr. vandoise ) called also the Dart, is found usually in the dull, clear, slowly-running
streams of England and Europe. It is allied to the chub, barbel and roach, and resembles the last,
but is longer and thinner in the body, and its scales are smaller. In colour it is dullish blue on the
upper, and white on the under, parts ; the gill-covers and sides of the head are silvery white. The
dace is gregarious and swims in shoals. The flesh is rather coarse in quality.
457. — DORY, JOHN. ( Fr . — Doree or St. Pierre.)
Method. — This fish, which is esteemed by most people a great delicacy,
is dressed in the same way as a turbot, which it resembles in firm-
ness, but not in richness. Cleanse it thoroughly, cut off the fins but
not the head, which is considered a delicacy, lay it in a fish-kettle,
cover with warm water, and add salt to taste. Bring it gradually to
near boiling point, and simmer gently for 15 minutes, or rather longer,
should the fish be very large. Serve on a hot napkin, and garnish
with cut lemon and parsley. Lobster, anchovy, or shrimp sauce, and
plain melted butter, should be sent to table with it.
RECIPES FOR COOKING FISH
319
Time. — After the water boils, \ to -§■ an hour, according to size.
Average Cost, is. to 3s. Suflicient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable all the
year, but best from September to January.
Note. — Small John Dorys are excellent baked.
458. — DORY, JOHN. (Fr. — Doree a la Genoise.)
Ingredients. — 1 dory, 1 gill of picked shrimps, 2 smelts, 1 teaspoonful
of anchovy-essence, 1 egg, about 2 ozs. of panada, 1 oz. of butter,
pepper and salt, 1 tablespoonful of Chablis or Sautcrne, Genoise sauce
(No. 301).
Method. — Wash the fish, wipe it and remove the fillets (the bones,
etc., may be used for the Genoise sauce). Pare the fillets neatly, and
cut them into oblong pieces. Remove the bones and heads from the
smelts, pound them together with the shrimps in a mortar until
they are quite smooth, then add the panada and anchovy-essence,
and moisten with the egg. Mix thoroughly, season to taste, and rub
the whole through a sieve. Spread each piece of fillet with this farce,
fold over, and place them on a well buttered saute-pan. Season,
lightly moisten with the wine and a few drops of lemon-juice, cover
with a buttered paper, and cook in the oven for about 15 minutes,
or longer, according to the thickness of the fillets. Take up carefully,
and dish up on a hot dish. Pour some previously prepared Genoise
sauce into the pan in which the fish was cooked, boil up, and strain over
the fillets. Serve hot.
Time. — To cook, about 15 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. to 3s. Suffi-
cient for 5 persons. Seasonable all the year, but best from September
to January,
The Dory (Fr. doree), called also John Dory, is a yellowish golden-coloured fish, belonging to
the mackerel family, distinguished, as a genus, by its divided dorsal fin, the spinous part of which
is less developed than the soft portion. The head is curiously shaped, and the body compressed.
Its name is supposed to be a corruption of the French, jaune doree (“ golden-yellow.”). The dory
is highly esteemed as a table-fish, and its flesh when dressed is of a beautiful clear white. A popular
superstition ascribes the peculiar black mark on each side of the fish to St. Peter’s finger and thumb,
the dory being, so runs the legend, the fish from which the apostle took the tribute money. The
dory is found in the Mediterranean and other seas of Europe.
459. -— EELS BOILED. ( Fr . — Anguilles Bouillies.)
Ingredients. — 4 small eels, a small bunch of parsley, f of a pint of
parsley sauce (No. 31 1), a little salt.
Method. — Clean and skin the eels, put them into a stewpan with the
parsley, a little salt, and warm water to barely cover them. . Simmer
gently for \ an hour, or until they are tender, then serve with the
sauce poured over thdm.
Time. — About 3 an hour. Average Cost, Sd. to is. per lb. Sufficient
for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable from June to March.
The Eel (Fr. anguille). — This name is applied generally to fish with elongated bodies, but is scienti-
fically restricted to certain genera of the A podia , fish without ventral fins, belonging to the sub-order
Malacoptcri, or “ soft-finned.” The eel has a smooth head and a serpentine body, covered with
320
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
minute detached scales which are frequently concealed by the skin, the absence of scales being com-
pensated for by a mucous secretion, which renders the eel proverbially slippery. The lower jaw
projects beyond the upper, the teeth are sharp, and a swim-bladder is present. Some species of
eel are marine, others fresh-water, while some, as the Anguilla , live in both elements. The conger-
eel is exclusively marine, and is the largest of the eels. The eel lives in the mud, among weeds, roots
or stumps of trees, or holes in the banks, or the bottoms of rivers, where they often grow to an enor-
mous size, weighing as much as 15 lb. or 16 lb. It seldom emerges from its hiding-place except in
the night ; and in winter, on account of its great susceptibility to cold, it buries itself in the mud.
The eel is noted for its voracity and tenacity of life, and also for its remarkable fecundity, the young
of the eels which spawn in the estuaries of rivers passing up the streams in vast numbers ; such a
passage is called the “ eel-fare.” The eel frequently migrates from one habitat to another, crossing
over the intervening marshy land. Various methods are employed for capturing the eel, river eels
being usually caught in wicker baskets with funnel-shaped mouths, into which they enter, but cannot
get out. Eels are also taken by means of a kind of trident, called an eel-spear, and by hooks and lines.
Large quantities of eels are caught in Holland, from whence they are brought alive to the London
market by boats fitted with wells. As an article of food, they are largely eaten in England, but
seldom in Scotland ; the flesh is somewhat fatty and insipid. The eel-like fish, Gymnotus elcctricus
of South America, has the property of communicating an electric shock when touched.
Holland is very famous for its eels, and sends large quantities to London ; but those caught in the
Thames are more silvery in appearance, and are considered by epicures to be of a better flavour.
460. — EEL, CONGER. (Fr. — Congre. Anguille de
Mer.)
This is much esteemed by many persons. It forms the basis of the
well-known soup of the Channel Islands, and is made into pies in the
West of England. Like a tough steak, it always needs long stewing or
cooking, as the flesh is remarkably firm and hard. It can be cooked
like a fresh-water eel.
The Conger Eel (Fr. anguille de mer), a genus of marine eels, having a long dorsal fin beginning
near the nape of the neck, a long eel-like body destitute of scales, and the upper jaw extending over
the lower, both furnished with sharp rows of teeth. The conger eel is a muscular and voracious fish.
Tne most familiar species is the Conger vulgaris , abundant on the English coasts, especially ofl Corn-
wall, which sometimes attains to a length of 10 feet, and over 100 lb. in weight. Its colour, which
varies with its habitat, is a pale brown above and greyish-vrhite underneath. The flesh of the conger
eel is coarse, but its gelatinous qualities are medicinally valuable.
461. — EEL, CONGER, BAKED. (Fr. — Congre roti.)
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of conger eel, suet-force : see Sauces, No. 407,
butter or fat, flour.
Method. — Wash and dry the fish thoroughly, stuff it with the prepared
forcemeat, and bind it with tape. Melt the butter or fat in a baking-
dish or tin, put in the fish, and baste it well. Bake gently for 1 hour,
meanwhile basting occasionally with fat, and dredging the surface with
flour. Serve with the gravy poured round, or, if preferred, with
tomato, brown caper, or a suitable fish sauce.
Time. — To bake, 1 hour. Average Cost, gd. to 6d. per lb. Sufficient
for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable September and November.
462. — EEL, CONGER, BOILED. (Fr. — Congre
Bouilli.)
Ingredients. — Conger eel, vinegar, salt.
Method. — Put the fish into a fish-kettle containing just enough hot
Salted water to barely cover it, and add a little vinegar. Let it boil,
then simmer gently for about \ an hour, or until the fish separates
RECIPES FOR COOKING FISH
321
easily from the bone. Drain well, serve garnished with lemon and
parsley, and send parsley and butter sauce, or any fish sauce pre-
ferred, to table in a tureen.
Time.— To boil, about ^ an hour. Average Cost, 4d. to 6d. per lb.
463. — EEL, CONGER, FRIED. (Fr.— < Congre frit.)
Ingredients. — Conger eel, egg, breadcrumbs, frying-fat, flour, salt and
pepper.
Method. — Wash and dry the fish thoroughly, and cut it into slices
about f- of an inch in thickness. Roll lightly in flour seasoned with salt
and pepper, coat carefully with egg and breadcrumbs, and fry in hot
fat until lightly browned. Drain well, and serve with tomato anchovy,
or any suitable fish sauce.
Time. — To fry, about 20 minutes. Average Cost, from 4d. to 6d. per lb.
464. — EEL, CONGER, PIE. (Fr— Pate de Congre.)
Ingredients. — t small conger eel, rough puff paste, or puff, 1 tablespoon-
ful of vinegar, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 1 teaspoonful
of powdered mixed herbs, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped onion, salt
and pepper.
Method. — Wash and dry the fish thoroughly, remove all skin and
bones, and cut it into neat pieces. Place these in layers in a pie-dish,
sprinkling each layer with salt, pepper, onion, herbs and parsley,
add water to three-quarters fill the dish, and mix with it the vinegar.
Cover the fish with paste, bake in a moderate oven for about 1 hour,
and serve either hot or cold.
Time. — To bake, about 1 hour. Average Cost, Fish, from qd. to 6d.
per lb. Sufficient for 6 or 8 persons.
465. — EEL, CONGER, STEWED. (Fr— Ragout de
Congre.)
Ingredients.— 3 slices off a medium-sized conger, 1 onion sliced, a
bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 2 cloves, 1 blade of mace,
1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, 1 of a pint of milk, \ a pint of water, salt
and pepper.
Method. — Heat the water, put in the fish, onion, herbs, mace, cloves,
and a little salt and pepper, and simmer gently for 20 minutes. Mean-
while melt the butter in a stewpan, add the flour, and stir and cook
slowly for 10 minutes without browning. Strain the liquor from the
fish on to the prepared butter and flour, stir until boiling, then add the
milk. Season to taste, boil up, pour over the fish, and serve.
Time. — About + an hour. Average Cost, fish from 4d. to 6d. per lb.
Sufficient for 3 persons.
M
322
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
466. — EEL, COLLARED. (Fr. — Anguille en Galan-
tine.)
Ingredients. — 1 large eel, 3 or 4 ozs. of veal forcemeat (No. 412), a
good pinch each of ground cloves, mace, allspice, mixed herbs, sage,
salt and pepper, fish stock, and vinegar.
Method. — Cut off the head and tail of the eel, and remove the skin
and backbone. Mix all the ingredients enumerated above with
the forcemeat, spread the eel flat on the table, and cover its inner side
with the mixture. Roll up the eel, beginning with the broad end, and
bind it in shape with a strong tape. Have ready some fish stock, made
by simmering the backbone, head, and tail of the eel while the force-
meat was being prepared. See that it is well seasoned with salt, add
a tablespoonful of vinegar, put in the eel, and simmer gently for about
40 minutes, then press the eel between two dishes or boards until cold.
Meanwhile add allspice and a little more vinegar to the liquor in which
the eel was cooked, simmer gently for \ an hour, then strain. When the
eel is cold, put it into the liquor and let it remain until required for use.
The eel should be glazed before serving.
Time. — About ij- hours, to prepare and cook. Average Cost, from
9d. to is. per lb. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable all the year
round, but best from June to March.
467. — EELS FRIED. (Fr. — Anguilles Frites.)
Ingredients. — 1 or 2 medium-sized eels, 1 tablespoonful of flour, \ a
teaspoonful of salt, -} of a teaspoonful of pepper, 1 egg, breadcrumbs,
parsley, salt and pepper, frying-fat.
Method.— Wash, skin, and dry the eels thoroughly, and divide them
into pieces from 2\ to 3 inches long. Mix the flour, salt and pepper
together, and roll the pieces of eel separately in the mixture. Coat
carefully with egg and breadcrumbs, fry in hot fat until crisp and lightly-
browned, then drain well, and serve garnished with crisply-fried
parsley.
Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, eels, 8d. to is. per lb. Allow
2 lb. for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable from June to March.
468. — EEL PIE. (Fr. — Pate aux Anguilles.)
Ingredients. — 1|- lb. of eels, \ a pint of meat stock, 1 tablespoonful
of mushroom ketchup, 1 dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, pepper and
salt, rough puff paste, or puff.
Method. — Clean and skin the eels, and cut them into pieces about
2 inches long. Put the heads, tails, and fins into a stewpan with the
stock, simmer for an hour, then strain, and skim well. Place
the eels in a pie-dish, with a good seasoning of salt and pepper between
the layers. Add the lemon-juice and ketchup to the stock, pour about
RECIPES FOR COOKING FISH
323
half of it into the pie-dish, cover with paste, and bake in a fairly-hot
oven for 1 hour. Warm the remainder of the stock, and pour it into
the pie through a funnel as soon as it is taken from the oven.
Time. 1 hour to bake. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for 5 persons.
Seasonable all the year, but best from June to March.
469. — EEL PIE. (Fr. — Pate aux Anguilles.)
(Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of eels, a little chopped parsley, 1 shallot, grated
nutmeg, pepper and salt to taste, the juice of \ a lemon, a small quan-
tity of forcemeat, \ of a pint of Bechamel ( see Sauces), puff paste.
Method. — Skin and wash the eels, cut them into pieces, 2 inches long,
bone them ; line the bottom of the pie-dish with forcemeat. Put in the
eels, sprinkle them with the parsley, shallot, nutmeg, seasoning and
lemon-juice, cover them with puff-paste, ornament the top witli
fancifully cut strips of paste, brush over with egg yolk and bake in
a fairly hot oven for about 1 hour. Make the Bechamel sauce hot,
and pour it into the pie before serving.
Time. — From ij to i-l- hours. Average Cost, 2s. to 2s. 6d. Sufficient for
4 or 5 persons. Seasonable all the year, but best from June to March.
470. — EELS WITH MATELOTE SAUCE.
(Fr. — Anguilles a la Matelote.)
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of eels, f of a pint of good stock, J- of a pint of claret
12 preserved mushrooms, 2} ozs. of butter, i-|- ozs. of flour, salt and
pepper.
Method. — -Wash and dry the eels, cut them into three-inch lengths,,
and roll them in flour seasoned with a little salt and pepper. Melt
1 oz. of butter in a stewpan, fry the eels until lightly browned, then drain
off any butter that remains. Put in the stock and wine, bring to the
boil, and simmer gently for -J- an hour. Meanwhile melt the remaining
butter in another stewpan, stir in the flour, cook it gently until it
acquires a nut-brown colour, then put it aside. Drain the pieces of
eel from the stock, and keep them hot, strain the stock, add to the
browned flour, and stir until boiling. Have ready the mushrooms
cooked, heat them up in a little stock, and add them to the sauce,
season to taste, and boil gently for 3 or 4 minutes. Pour the sauce
over the fish, and serve.
Time. — About 45 minutes. Average Cost, 3s. to 3s. 6d. Sufficient for
4 or 5 persons.
471. — EELS WITH TARTAR SAUCE. (Fr.— An-
guilles a la Tartare.)
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of eels, i a pint of good stock, a glass of sherry, 1
egg, bre’adcrumbs, frying-fat, i-f-ozs. of butter. Tartar sauce (No. 213).
324
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Wash, skin, dry, and cut the eels into pieces 2\ inches long'
Melt the butter in a stewpan, put in the eels and fry until brown, then
add the stock (which must be highly seasoned) and sherry, and simmer
gently for about 15 minutes. Drain well, and when cool brush over
with egg, roll in breadcrumbs, and fry until nicely browned in hot fat.
Garnish with fried parsley, and serve with a tureen of tartar sauce.
Time. — From 1 to ij hours. Average Cost, 2s. to 2s. 6d., exclusive
of the sauce. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable all the year, but
best from June to March.
472. — EEL, FRIED, REMOULADE SAUCE.
(Fr. — Fritote d’Anguille a la Remoulade.)
Ingredients. — 1 good-sized eel, yolks of 3 eggs, 1 tablespoonful oiled
butter, breadcrumbs, a few sprigs of parsley, \ a teaspoonful of sweet
herbs, pepper and salt, fat for frying, \ a lemon, Remoulade sauce (No.
271)
Method. — Wash, skin and clean the eel, cut off the tail and head,
split it open, and take out the bone. Cut into neat pieces about
1 \ inches long, dry well on a cloth, and dip these in a little flour
previously mixed with sufficient salt and pepper to season. Beat the
yolks of 3 eggs, add the oiled butter, sweet herbs, and finely-chopped
parsley. Coat the pieces well in this, then roll in breadcrumbs. Fry
them in hot fat to a golden colour, drain well, dish up on a hot dish '
covered with a folded napkin. Garnish with slices of lemon and
fried parsley and serve with a boat of Remoulade sauce.
Fried eels are more palatable if served with an acid sauce. Lemon-
juice squeezed over the fish just before serving will greatly improve the
flavour.
Time. — To fry, 7 or 8 minutes. Average Cost, is. 9d. to 2s. 3d., ex-
clusive of the sauce. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable all the
year, but best from June to March.
473. — EELS STEWED. (Fr. — Anguilles a l’Anglaise.)
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of eels, 2 ozs. of butter, 1 medium-sized onion,
1 dessertspoonful of chopped parsley, salt and pepper.
Method. — Skin and clean the eels, cut them into pieces about 2 inches
long, and place them in a jar. Add the butter, the onion cut into
slices, parsley, salt and pepper, cover closely, and place the jar in a
saucepan of cold water, which must be brought slowly to the boil.
Cook until the eels are tender ; this will take about \\ hours from the
time the water boils. When done, place on a hot dish, and strain the
gravy over.
Time. — From 2 to 2\ hours. Average Cost, is. qd. to 2s. 3d. Sufficient for
5 or 6 persons. Seasonable from June to March, but obtainable all the year.
RECIPES FOR COOKING FISH
325
474. — EELS STEWED. ( Fr . — Anguilles a la Creme.)
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of eels, 1 pint of good stock, 2 tablespoonfuls of
cream, 1 glass of port wine, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, a strip of
lemon-rind, 2 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, 1 onion, 2 cloves, salt, cayenne.
Method. — Wash and skin the eels, cut them into pieces about 3 inches
long, put them into a stewpan, add the stock, wine, onion, cloves,
lemon-rind, and seasoning. Simmer gently for \ an hour, or until
tender, then lift them carefully on to a hot dish. Have ready the butter
and flour kneaded together, add it to the stock in small portions, stir
until smoothly mixed with the stock, and boil for 10 minutes,
then put in the cream and lemon-juice. Season to taste, and strain
over the fish.
Time. — £ of an hour. Average Cost, from 2s. 6d. to 3s. 6d. Sufficient for
5 or 6 persons. Seasonable from June to March, but obtainable all the
year.
475. — EELS STEWED. ( Fr . — Anguilles au Vin-
Rouge.)
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of eels, 1 pint of brown sauce, J of a pint of port
wine, 1 dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, 1 teaspoonful of anchovy,
essence, 1 ozs. of butter, cayenne, salt.
Method. — Wash, skin and dry the eels, and cut them into pieces about
3 inches long. Melt the butter in a stewpan, put in the eels, and fry
until nicely browned. Then add the sauce, wine, anchovy-essence
and seasoning, and simmer very gently for about 20 minutes. Lift
the eels carefully on to a hot dish, add the lemon-juice to the sauce,
season to taste, strain over the fish, and serve.
Time. — From 30 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. to 3s. Sufficient
for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable, obtainable all the year, but best from
June to March.
476. — FISH CAKES.
Ingredients. — The remains of any cold fish ; to each lb. allow -l- a lb.
of mashed potatoes, 1 oz. of butter, 2 eggs, breadcrumbs, milk, salt and
pepper.
Method. — Heat the butter in a saucepan, add the fish (coarsely-
chopped), potatoes, the yolk of 1 egg, salt, pepper, and sufficient milk
to moisten thoroughly. Stir the ingredients over the fire for a few
minutes, then turn on to a plate. When cold, shape into round flat cakes,
brush them over with egg, cover with breadcrumbs, and fry in hot fat.
The fish may be made into one large cake instead of several small ones,
in which case, grease a flat tin, and shape the mixture as much like a fish
as possible. Brush it over with egg, cover with slightly browned
breadcrumbs, and bake for about 20 minutes in a fairly hot oven.
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
326
This dish may be varied by the addition of forcemeat, made of 2
tablespoonfuls of finely-chopped suet, 2 tablespoonfuls breadcrumbs,
1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, salt, pepper, grated lemon-
rind, or other flavouring, and moistened with egg or milk. Or the
forcemeat may be made of 1 tablespoonful of picked and coarsely-
chopped shrimps, breadcrumbs, a teaspoonful of anchovy-
essence, 1 tablespoonful of melted butter, salt, pepper, cayenne, and
a little milk. When using forcemeat, spread one half of the fish-cake
mixture on the tin in the form of a sole, spread the forcemeat in the
centre, leaving bare a narrow margin at the sides, cover with the
remainder of the mixture, brush over with egg, sprinkle with browned
breadcrumbs, and bake in a moderate oven for 35 or 40 minutes.
Time. — About £- hour. Average Cost, is. 6d. for 12 small cakes.
Sufficient. — 1 lb. fish, etc., for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable at any time.
477. — FISH CAKES FROM TINNED SALMON.
Ingredients. — 1 tin of salmon, 1 lb. of mashed potato, milk, 1 egg,
breadcrumbs, salt and pepper, frying-fat, parsley.
Method. — When using cold potato stir it over the fire with a little milk
until quite hot and smooth. Chop the fish coarsely, add it to the
potato, season to taste, and stir over the fire until thoroughly mixed,
adding a little milk if too dry. Let the mixture cool on a plate, then
shape into small rpund cakes, coat carefully with egg and breadcrumbs,
and fry in hot fat until lightly browned. Drain well, and serve gar-
nished with crisply-fried parsley.
Time. — Altogether, i\ hours. Average Cost, qd. to is.
478. — FISH CHOWDER,
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of cod, haddock or whiting, 3 or 4 potatoes
peeled and sliced, £ of a lb. of pickled pork cut into dice, 1 small onion
finely- chopped, 3 water biscuits, \ a pint of milk, 1 pint of water,
\ a teaspoonful of powdered mixed herbs, salt, pepper.
Method. — Wash and dry the fish, and cut it into small pieces.
Place the fish, potatoes and pork in a stewpan in alternate layers,
sprinkling each layer with onion, herbs, salt and pepper. Add the
water, cover closely, and cook gently for 40 minutes. Meanwhile soak
the biscuits in the milk, beat out all the lumps with a fork, and stir the
preparation into the stew about 10 minutes before serving. Add
seasoning to taste, and serve hot.
Time. — To cook the chowder, about 40 minutes. Average Cost, about
is. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.
479. -FISH, CROQUETTES OF. (FV.-Croquettes de
Poisson.)
Ingredients, — Cooked fish; to i a lb. of which allow \ of a lb. of mashed
RECIPES FOR COOKING FISH 327
potatoes, \ an oz. of butter, 1 yolk of egg, 1 whole egg, breadcrumbs,
milk, salt and pepper, frying-fat.
Method. — Remove all skin and bone from the fish, then chop it
coarsely. Heat the butter in a stewpan, add the fish, potatoes, yolk
of egg, salt and pepper to taste, and sufficient milk to moisten it thor-
oughly. Stir the preparation over the fire until well mixed, then turn
it on to a plate. When cold, form it into cork-shaped pieces, brush
over with egg, coat with breadcrumbs, and fry in hot fat. Drain well,
and serve garnished with crisply-fried parsley.
Time. — To fry, about 3 minutes. Average Cost, 3d. to ad., in addition
to i lb. of fish.
480. — FISH, FRICASSEE OF. (Fr.— Fricassee de
Poisson.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of white fish, \ a pint of milk, of a pint of water,
1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, 1 bay-leaf, 1 blade of mace, 1 pinch of
nutmeg, salt and pepper, lemon-juice to taste.
Method. — Divide the fish into pieces about inches square. Put
the milk, water, salt and pepper, bay-leaf, mace and nutmeg into a
stewpan, and when warm add the fish. Bring to the boil and simmer
for 10 minutes, then take out the bay-leaf and the mace. Have ready
the butter and flour kneaded together, add it in small portions to the
contents of the stewpan, and stir gently, When the flour is mixed
smoothly with the liquor, add lemon-juice and seasoning to taste, and
serve.
Time.— About 30 minutes. Average Cost, rod. Sufficient for 2 or 3
persons. Seasonable at any time.
481. — FISH AND MACARONI. (Fr.— Poisson aux
Macaroni.)
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of fish (cooked), a lb. of macaroni, 3 ozs. of
grated cheese, 1 oz. of butter, pepper and salt.
Method. — Remove all skin and bone from the fish, and separate it
into large flakes. Break the macaroni into pieces about x inch in
length, put it into boiling salted water, and boil rapidly until tender.
Have ready a well-greased pic-dish, put in a layer of fish, season well
with salt and pepper, cover with macaroni, and add a good sprinkling
of cheese and seasoning. Repeat until the dish is full. Put the butter
in small pieces on the top, and bake for about 20 minutes in a quick
oven.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, is, 6d. to as. Sufficient for 5
or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time,
328 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
482. — FISH AND MACARONI. (Fr. — Poisson aux
Macaroni.) (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of cooked fish, \ of a lb. of macaroni, 1^ ozs. of
grated cheese, \ an oz. of butter, pepper and salt, J of a pint of white
sauce ( see sauces, No. 222).
Method. — Remove all skin and bones, and separate the fish into small
flakes. Put the macaroni into salted boiling water, and boil rapidly
for about 20 minutes, or until tender, then cut it into small pieces.
Heat the white sauce, add 1 oz. of cheese, the fish and macaroni, season
to taste, and mix well together. Turn the preparation into a buttered
pie-dish, sprinkle the remaining cheese on the top, and add the butter
in small pieces. Brown in a hot oven, and serve in the dish.
Time. — To bake, about 10 minutes. Average Cost, is. 3d. Sufficient
for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.
483. — FISH AND OYSTER PIE. (Fr.—. Pate de
Poisson aux Huitres.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of any cold fish, such as cod or haddock, 1
dozen oysters, pepper and salt to taste, breadcrumbs or puff-paste,
sufficient for the quantity of fish, \ a teaspoonful of grated nutmeg,'
1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, melted butter or white sauce.
Method. — Clear the fish from the bones, put a layer of it in a pie-dish,
add a few oysters, with nutmeg and chopped parsley. Repeat this
till the dish is quite full. A covering maybe formed either of bread-
crumbs, which should be browned, or puff-paste, which should be cut
into long strips, and laid in cross-bars over the fish, with a line of
paste first laid round the edge. Pour in some sauce No. 202, melted
butter, or a little thin white sauce, and the oyster-liquor, then bake.
Time. — If made! of cooked fish, J of an hour ; if made of fresh fish and
puff-paste, f- of an hour. Average Cost, 2s. Sufficient for 6 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
484. — FISH PIE. (Fr. — Pate de Poisson.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. each of cold fish and mashed potatoes, 2 eggs.
1 tablespoonful of breadcrumbs, and 4 ozs. of finely-chopped suet,
enough milk to reduce the mixture to the consistency of very thick
batter, salt and pepper.
Method. — Chop the fish coarsely, mix it with the potatoes and suet,
add a liberal seasoning of salt and pepper, the eggs and milk, and beat
well. Turn into a grease-d pie-dish, and cook in a moderate oven for
ij to i-| hours. Serve in the dish in which it is baked.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, is. to is. 6d., exclusive of the
fish. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable at any time.
FISH.
i. Boiled Turbot. 2. Dressed Crab. 3. Boiled Salmon (Curled).
M
RECIPES FOR COOKING FISH
329
485. — FISH PIE. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of any cold fish, 2 ozs. of oiled blitter, some mashed
potatoes, 2 teaspoonfuls of anchovy-sauce, cayenne to taste.
Method. — Flake the fish, and season with the anchovy-sauce and
cayenne. Put it in a well-buttered pie-dish, lay a little oiled butter
over the top, till up with the potatoes, and bake for 15 minutes.
Time. — 20 minutes. Average Cost, is. to is. 3d. Suflicient for 4
persons. Seasonable at any time.
486. — FISH PUDDING. ( Fr . — Pouding de Poisson.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of any kind of white fish, 4 ozs. of finely-chopped
suet, 2 ozs. of breadcrumbs, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley,
if of a pint of milk, or stock made from fish bones, 2 eggs, a few drops
of anchovy-essence, salt and pepper.
Method. — Free the fish from skin and bones, and pound it well with
the suet (when making it without the aid of a mortar, chop the fish
finely, and rub it through a fine sieve) ; add the breadcrumbs, parsley,
salt, pepper, anchovy-essence, and mix well ; beat the eggs slightly,
add the milk or fish stock, and stir into the mixture. Plave ready a
well-greased plain mould or basin, put in the mixture, cover with a
greased paper, and steam gently for nearly i-J- hours. Serve with
anchovy, egg, or melted butter sauce.
Time. — Altogether 2 hours. Average Cost, is. 6d. Sufficient for 4 or 5
persons. Seasonable at any time.
487. — FISH SALAD. ( Fr . — Salade de Poisson.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb of cooked fish, celery, lettuce, Mayonnaise sauce,
hard-boiled egg, salt, pepper.
Method. — Skin, bone, and shred some cold fish (almost any kind of
white fish or salmon will do), put this in a large mixing bowl, add to
it one-fourth its quantity of lettuce, washed and shredded, also one-
fourth of white cleaned celery (if in season). Cut the celery into shreds
or strips, mix all carefully, adding salt and pepper to taste. Arrange
neatly in a salad bowl, and pour over some Mayonnaise dressing.
Garnish tastefully with hard-boiled egg, cut into slices. When celery
is not obtainable, use shredded chicory, endive or sliced tomatoes.
Time. — 20 minutes. Average Cost, is. 3d. to is. 6d. Sufficient for 5
or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
488. — FISH STEW. (Fr. — Ragout de Poisson.)
Ingredients. — 3 or 4 small flounders, plaice, or other white fish, 2
tablespoonfuls of breadcrumbs, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parslev,
£ of a teaspoonful of finely-grated lemon-rind, 2 eggs, 4- an oz. of butter,
1 small onion chopped, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, mace, ginger,
cayenne, pepper and salt.
330
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Clean, wash and dry the fish, and cut it into neat fillets.
Remove the skin and bones from some of the smaller pieces, and
coarsely chop the fish, which should fill 2 tablespoons. To this add
the breadcrumbs, parsley, lemon-rind; season with salt and pepper,
bind with a little beaten egg, and shape into small balls. Melt the
butter, fry the onion slightly, add a pinch each of ginger, mace and
cayenne, and a little salt and pepper. Put in the filleted fish, barely
cover it with hot water, bring to the boil, then lay the forcemeat balls
on the top of the fish. Cover with a greased paper, to keep in the steam,
simmer gently for 15 to 20 minutes, then transfer to a hot dish. Strain
the liquor over the remainder of the beaten eggs, replace in the stewpan,
season to taste, and add the lemon-juice. Stir by the side of the fire
until the sauce begins to' thicken, taking care that it does not boil,
or it may curdle, then pour over the fish, and serve.
Time. — Altogether, about 1 hour. Average Cost, is. 3d. to is. 6d.
Sufficient for 3 persons. Seasonable at any time.
489. — FLOUNDERS. (Fr. — Carreiets en Souchet.)
Ingredients.— 3 or 4 flounders, \ a carrot, \ a turnip, 1 slice of parsnip,
6 peppercorns, 1 small onion, 1 small bunch of herbs, parsley, salt.
Method.— Cut the carrot, turnip and parsnip into very fine strips
and cook them till tender in slightly -sal ted water or fish stock. Trim
the fish, and place it in a deep saute-pan, with the onion cut up in
slices, the bunch of herbs and peppercorns, add a little salt, and pour
on sufficient water to well cover the' fish. Allow it to come to the
boil, and cook gently for about 10 minutes. Take up the fish and
place it on a deep entree dish, sprinkle over the shredded cooked
vegetables and some finely-chopped parsley, add a little of the fish
liquor, and serve.
Time. — To cook 10 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. to 2s. 6d. Suffi-
cient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable all the year, most plentiful from
August to November.
490. — FLOUNDERS, BOILED. (Fr. — Carreiets bouil-
lis.)
Ingredients. — 1 medium-sized flounder, salt, vinegar.
Method. — Wash the fish, put it into a fish-kettle with just sufficient
water to cover it, add salt and vinegar to taste, bring gently to the
boiling point, and simmer for 5 or 10 minutes, according to the
thickness of the fish. Serve with a suitable sauce.
Time.— After the water boils, 5 to 10 minutes. Average Cost, from
6d. to is. 6d. Sufficient, 6 ozs. to 8 ozs. per head, with bone. Seasonable
all the year ; most plentiful from August to November.
Flounder (Fr. carrelet [in], limande f/|). — A flat-fish found in abundance on the British coasts, and
near the mouths of large rivers. It also thrives in ponds. The flounder is brown on one side of its
body and white on the other ; its eyes are situated on the right side. The dab is closely allied to the
flounder. The flounder is one of the commonest of fishes, and large quantities are sent to the Lon-
don market. The flesh of the flounder is easily digested.
RECIPES FOR COOKING FISH
33i
491. — FLOUNDERS, BROILED. (Fr. — Carrelets
Grilles.)
Flounders, when sufficiently large, are very nice broiled on a gridiron
over or in front of the fire, with a little butter rubbed over. Small
plaice cooked in the same manner are excellent.
492. — FLOUNDERS, FRIED. (Fr.— Carrelets Frits.)
Ingredients. — Flounders, egg and breadcrumbs, boiling fat, fried
parsley.
Method. — Cleanse the fish, and, 2 hours before they are required, rub
them inside and out with salt, to render them firm. Wash and wipe
them very dry, dip them into egg, and sprinkle over with breadcrumbs,
fry them in boiling fat, dish on a folded napkin or fish paper, and
garnish with fried parsley.
Time. — To fry, from 10 to 15 minutes, according to size. Average
Cost, 3d. to is. each, according to size and season. Allow from 6
ozs. to 8 ozs. per head for breakfast ; rather less when served in the
fish course of a dinner. Seasonable all the year ; most plentiful from
August to November.
493. — FROGS, STEWED. (Fr.— Ragout de Gren-
ouilles.)
Ingredients. — 6 or 8 frogs, salad-oil, J of a pint of white wine, 2 table-
spoonfuls of truffle liquor, 8 fresh button mushrooms, \ of a pint of
brown sauce, salt and pepper.
Method.— The hind-quarters of the frogs alone are used, and they
should be carefully separated from the rest of the body. Cover the
bottom of a saute-pan with a thin layer of salad-oil, and when thor-
oughly hot place in it the frogs’ legs. Fry quickly for 2 or 3 minutes,
turning the legs once during the process, but most carefully so as to
avoid tearing the skin and flesh. Drain, place in a casserole, add the
truffle liquor, mushrooms previously well-washed to free them from
grit, and season to taste. Stew very gently for about 30 minutes,
then transfer carefully to a hot dish, and strain the wine into a small
stewpan. Boil quickly until well reduced, then add the brown sauce.
Season to taste, make thoroughly hot, pour over the cooked frog, and
serve.
494. — GARFISH, STEWED. (Fr.— Brochet a 1’An-
glaise.)
Ingredients. — 2 medium-sized garfish, 1 onion sliced, a bouquet-garni
(parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 2 cloves, 1 blade of mace, i£ ozs. of butter,
i f ozs. of flour, 1 pint of stock or water, salt and pepper.
332
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Remove the skin, which would otherwise impart a disagree-
able oily taste to the dish, and cut the fish into pieces i^- inches long.
Bring the stock or water to simmering point, put in the fish, onion,
herbs, mace, cloves, and a little salt and pepper, and simmer gently
for 20 minutes. Meanwhile melt the butter in a stewpan, add the
flour, and stir and cook slowly for io minutes without browning. Strain
the liquor from the fish on to the prepared butter and flour, stir until
boiling, then season to taste, strain over the fish, and serve.
Time. — About \ an hour. Average Cost, uncertain. Sufficient for 4
persons.
Note. — Garfish may also be boiled, broiled or baked, according to the
recipes given for cooking eels and conger eels.
495. — GRAYLING, BAKED. (Fr— Ombre roti.)
Ingredients. — 2 medium-sized grayling, ^ of a pint of melted butter,
No. 202, butter for basting.
Method. — Empty, wash and scale the fish. Dry it well, place it
in a baking-dish in which a little butter has been previously melted,
and baste well. Season with salt and pepper, cover with a greased
paper, and bake gently from 25 to 35 minutes, basting occasionally.
Make the melted butter as directed, taking care that it is very thick,
and a few minutes before serving strain, and add the liquor from the
fish. Place the fish on a hot dish, strain the sauce over, then serve.
Time. — From 25 to 33 minutes. Average Cost, uncertain. Sufficient
for 4 persons. Seasonable in July and August.
496. — GRAYLING, BROILED. (Fr.— Ombre a la
Diable.)
Ingredients. — 4 small grayling, lemon-juice, salad-oil, salt and pepper.
Method. — Empty, scale, wash and thoroughly dry the fish. Brush
it over with salad-oil, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and broil over a
clear fire until sufficiently cooked and nicely browned. Serve gar-
nished with quarters of lemon.
Time. — About 10 minutes. Average Cost, uncertain. Sufficient for
4 persons. Seasonable in July and August.
497. — GRAYLING, FRIED. (Fr.— Ombre frit.)
Ingredients. — 4 small grayling, parsley sauce, No. 31 1, egg, bread-
crumbs, frying-fat, flour, salt and pepper.
Method. — Empty, scale, wash and dry the fish, remove the gills and
fins, but leave the heads. Roll in flour seasoned with salt and pepper,
coat carefully with egg and breadcrumbs, and fry in hot fat until nicely
browned. Serve with parsley and butter sauce, or any other sauce
preferred.
Time. — To fry, S or 9 minutes. Average Cost, uncertain. Sufficient for
4 persons. Seasonable in July and August.
RECIPES FOR COOKING FISH
333
The Roach (Fr. gardon). — This well-known fish is a member of the carp family, and is found through-
out Europe and the western parts of Asia. It usually swims in shoals, and inhabits deep, still rivers.
In colour it is greyish-green tinted with blue, with a silvery-white belly, and bright red fins. It is
in season from March to September.
498. — GUDGEONS. (Fr. — Goujons Panes et Frits.)
Ingredients. — Gudgeons, egg, breadcrumbs, frying-fat.
Method. — Clean the fish and remove the gills, but do not scrape off
the scales. Dry well, dip them in egg and breadcrumbs, and fry them
in hot fat until nicely browned.
Time. — From 4 to 6 minutes to fry. Average Cost, 6d. per lb.
Allow 2 or 3 per head. Seasonable from June to November.
The Gudgeon (Fr. goujon), a member of the carp family, is found in gently flowing streams and
ponds. Its back is olive-brown with black spots, the abdomen white. The fins of the gudgeon are
short and without spines; its tail is forked, its scales are large, and there is a small barbule or filament
on either side of the mouth. The flesh of the gudgeon is firm and delicate, and very digestible. This
fish was esteemed by both the Greeks and the Romans. It is abundant in France and Germany.
499. — GURNET, OR GURNARD. (Fr.— Gournal.)
Ingredients. — 1 medium-sized gurnet, salt.
Method. — Clean and wash the fish, and cut off the fins and gills.
Have ready just enough warm water to cover it, add salt to taste,
put in the fish, bring slowly to near boiling point, and cook gently for
25 or 30 minutes. Serve with anchovv or parsley sauce.
Time.— To boil, from 25 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, from is. to
2s. 6d. Sufficient for 2 or 3 persons. Seasonable from October to March,
but in perfection in October.
500. — GURNET, BAKED. (Fr. — Gournal au Four.)
Ingredients. — 1 medium-sized gurnet, veal forcemeat (No. 413),
2 or 3 slices of bacon, butter, or fat for basting.
Method. — Empty and wash the fish, and cut off the fins and gills.
Prepare the forcemeat as directed, put it inside the fish, and sew up
the opening. Fasten the tail in the mouth of the fish, place it in a
pie-disli or baking dish, baste well with hot fat or butter, cover with
the slices of bacon, and bake in a moderate oven from 35 to 45 minutes.
It mav be served with either parsley or anchovy sauce.
Time. — Altogether, about 1 hour. Average Cost, from is. to 2s. 6d.
Sufficient for 2 or 3 persons. Seasonable from October to March.
The Gurnet or Gurnard (Fr. gournal). — This sea-water fish is remarkable for its curiously angular
shaped head, which is covered with bony plates, and armed with spines. The colour of the fins
which varies in different species, is blue or red. The jaw’s are furnished with numerous small teeth.
The grey and the red gurnet are the species most common to our British coasts. The flying gurnet
is a denizen of the Indian seas, and is also found in the Mediterranean. The gurnet is an excellent
table-fish.
501. — HADDOCK, BAKED. (Fr. — Eglefin au Four.)
Ingredients. — 1 large fresh haddock, veal forcemeat (No. 412),
1 egg, brown breadcrumbs, fat for basting.
334
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Wash, clean, and scale the fish. Make the forcemeat as
directed, put it inside the haddock, and sew up the opening. Truss
in the shape of the letter S. by means of a string securely fastened to
the head of the fish, the trussing needle being passed through the body
of the fish while held in the required shape, and the string afterwards
secured to the tail. Brush over with egg, cover lightly with brown
breadcrumbs, and bake in a moderate oven from 30 to 40 minutes,
basting occasionally with hot fat. Serve with anchovy or melted
butter sauce.
Time. — To prepare and cook, from 1 to ij hours. Average Cost,
from is. 2d. to is. 6d. Sufficient for 4 persons. Seasonable from August
to February.
502. — HADDOCK, BOILED. (Fr.—. Eglefin bouilli.)
Ingredients. — 1 large fresh haddock, salt.
Method. — Clean and wash the fish, cover it with warm water, add salt
to taste, bring to the boil, and cook gently from 20 to 30 minutes. Serve
with anchovy, parsley, or melted butter sauce.
Time. — From 20 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, large haddocks, 8d.
to is. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable from August to Febru-
ary.
503. — HADDOCK, DRIED, AND TOMATOES.
(Fr. — Merluche fume aux Tomates.)
Ingredients. — 1 small dried haddock, 1 oz. of butter, 2 or 3 small
tomatoes, 1 teaspoon ful of finely-chopped onion, \ a teaspoonful of
finely-chopped parsley, salt and pepper, boiled rice.
Method. — Lay the haddock in a tin with a lit tle water, and bake it for
10 minutes, then take away the skin and bones, and separate the fish
into large flakes. Melt the butter in a stewpan, fry the onion slightly,
add the tomatoes sliced, and cook until soft. Now put in the fish and
parsley, season to taste, and stir gently by the side of the fire until the
fish is thoroughly hot. Arrange the boiled rice in a circle on a hot dish,
and serve the fish in the centre of it.
Time. — 25 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. Sufficient for 3 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
504. — HADDOCKS, DRIED. ( Fr . — Merluche fume.)
Dried haddocks are best cooked either in the oven or on the top of
the stove in a tin surrounded by a little water to create steam, which
prevents the surface of the fish becoming hardened. Medium-sized
ones should be cooked whole, and before sending to table an incision
should be made from head to tail, and the backbone removed. The
fish should be plentifully spread with butter, sprinkled with pepper,
and served as hot as possible.
RECIPES FOR COOKING FISH'
O "> £
505.— HADDOCK, FRIED. (Fr.— Eglefin frit.)
Wash and dry a fresh haddock, cut down (he back, separate the flesh
from the bone, and cut into nice fillets. Brush over with egg, cover
lightly with breadcrumbs, and fry until golden-brown in hot fat.
Garnish with fried parsley.
The Haddock (Fr. eglefin). — This well-known fish belongs to the same family ( Gadidae ) as the cod,
which it much resembles in its general conformation. The lower jaw is furnished with a barbule,
and the dark lateral line of the back is very conspicuous. A similar superstitution ascribes the dark
spot on either side of the body, behind the pectoral fins, to the impression of the thumb and finger
of St. Peter, as in the case of the marks on the John Dory. The haddock abounds on the north-east
coast of Britain, and some parts of the coasts of Ireland. It is a popular article of food, and is eaten
fresh, or dried and cured. The Finnan haddock is the common haddock cured and dried, and takes
its name from the fishing village of Findhorn, near Aberdeen, which has obtained a high reputation
for its method of curing haddocks.
506. — HAKE, BAKED.
Ingredients. — 4 slices off a medium-sized hake, 1 teaspoonful of
finely-chopped parsley, 1 leaspoonful of finely-chopped onion, butter,
salt and pepper, flour.
Method.— Wash and dry the fish, and place the slices side by side
in a baking-dish. Dredge well with flour, season liberally with salt
and pepper, spread over on the parsley and butter, and add about 1 oz. of
butter in small pieces. Bake gently for \ an hour, basting occasionally,
then place the fish on a hot dish, strain the liquor over it, and
serve.
Time. — About \ an hour. Average Cost, qd. per lb. Sufficient for
3 or 4 persons. Seasonable, April to August.
Note.— Any of the methods given for cooking cod and halibut may be
applied to hake, but baking will be found the most palatable and satisfactory.
507. — HALIBUT, BAKED, (F>.— Halibute retie.)
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of halibut, cut in one thick slice, 1 oz. of butter
or dripping, flour, salt and pepper.
Method. — Wash and dry the fish thoroughly, sprinkle it liberally
with salt and pepper, and dredge well with flour. Place it in an earthen-
ware baking-dish or pie-dish, add the butter in small pieces, and bake
gently for about 1 hour. Serve on a hot dish with the liquid from the
fish strained and poured round.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 6d. to is. 6d. per lb. Sufficient
for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.
The Halibut (Fr. fletan), Hippoglossus vulgaris, also called the holibut, is the largest of the flat fish,
and sometimes weighs over 400 lb. It is more elongated in shape than the turbot, to which it is
inferior in quality, its flesh being dry and of less flavour, although it is much esteemed as a table-
fish. Halibut is caught on both sides of the Atlantic on the coasts in northern latitudes, and is abund-
ant off the Orkney Islands. The inhabitants of Greenland preserve it for use in the winter by cutting
the fish into long strips and drying these in the air. The halibut is brownish in colour, with darker
markings, and is white on the under surface. An oil is obtained from this fish, chiefly from the bones.
336 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
508. — HALIBUT, BAKED. (Fr.— Halibute au lard.)
Ingredients. — 1 slice of halibut, about 2 inches thick, ham or bacon,
butter, flour, salt and pepper.
Method. — Wipe the fish carefully, place it in a baking-disli in which
a little butter has been melted, and season with salt and pepper. Dredge
it liberally with flour, bake it in a moderate oven for 30 minutes,
basting frequently, and occasionally dredging with flour, then cover
the entire surface with rashers of bacon or ham. Continue to cook
slowly for \ an hour longer, then serve on a hot dish with the liquor
strained over, and the ham or bacon arranged neatly round the base.
Time. — About j hour. Average Cost, 6d. to is. 6d. per lb. Sufficient
for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable all the .year.
509. — HALIBUT, BOILED. (Fr. — Halibute bouilli.)
Ingredients. — 3 or 4 lb. of halibut, \ a pint of anchovy, No. 288, or
shrimp sauce, or No. 314, 1 lemon, parsley, salt.
Method. — Add salt to hot water in the proportion of 1 oz. to 1 quart,
put in the fish, bring slowly to boiling point, and simmer very gently
from 25 to 30 minutes, or until the fish will part easily from the bone.
Drain well, arrange on a hot serviette, garnished with slices of lemon
and parsley, and serve the sauce separately.
Time. — To boil, from 25 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. to is. per
lb. Sufficient for 8 or 9 persons. Seasonable at any time.
510. - HALIBUT, COQUILLES OR SCALLOPS OF.
(Fr. — Coquilles de Halibute.)
Ingredients. — Cooked halibut, white sauce, No. 222, grated Parmesan
cheese, salt and pepper, browned breadcrumbs, butter.
Method. — Flavour the sauce to taste with Parmesan cheese. Divide
the fish into large flakes, put these into buttered scallop shells, cover
with sauce, and sprinkle thickly with browned breadcrumbs. To each
add 1 or 2 small pieces of butter, cook from 15 to 20 minutes in a
moderate oven, and serve.
Time. — To prepare and cook, from 30 to 40 minutes. Average Cost,
is. 3d. for 6 coquilles. Allow 1 for each person. Seasonable at any
time.
51 1. — HALIBUT, FRIED. (Fr. — Halibute frite.)
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of halibut, anchovy or shrimp sauce, No. 288 or
314, 1 egg, breadcrumbs, frying-fat, 1 tablespoonful of flour, \ a tea-
spoonful of salt, -J- of a teaspoonful of pepper, parsley.
Method.— Divide the fish into small thin slices. Mix the flour, salt
and pepper together, coat the pieces of fish lightly with the mixture,
and afterwards brush them over with egg, and toss them in bread-
FISH,
i.— Oyster Patties. 2.— Whiting. 3. — Turbot. 4. — Whitebait. 5. — Mackerel.
6. — Mayonnaise Salmon. 7. — Lobster. 8. — Crab.
RECIPES FOR COOKING FISH
337
crumbs. Fry them in a deep pan of fat until crisp and lightly browned,
or, if more convenient, in a smaller amount of hot fat in a frying-pan.
Serve garnished with crisply-fried parsley. Send the sauce to table
in a tureen.
Time. — To fry, 6 or 7 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. to is. 6d. per lb.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.
512. — HALIBUT, GRILLED. (Fr — Halibute grille.)
Ingredients. — Halibut, oiled butter, salt and pepper.
Method. — Divide the fish into slices not more than f- of an inch in
thickness, brush them over with oiled butter, and sprinkle them with
salt and pepper. Place the slices on a clean oiled gridiron, and cook
over a clear fire for 10 or 12 minutes, turning them 2 or 3 times during
the process. Serve with lemon, or any fish sauce that may be preferred.
Time. — From 10 to 12 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. to is. 2d. per lb.
Allow 6 or 7 oz. per head. Seasonable at any time.
513. — HALIBUT PIE. (Fr.— Pate de Halibute.)
Ingredients. — 3 lb. of halibut, -J- of a pint of white sauce (see sauces),
No. 222, or 223, 1 teaspoonful of anchovy-essence, puff-paste, or
rough puff paste, salt and pepper.
Method. — Make the sauce as directed, and add the anchovy-essence.
Wash and skin the fish, remove all the bones, and divide it into 2-inch
square pieces. Place these in a piedish with a good sprinkling of
salt and pepper, and a little white sauce between each layer. Cover
with paste, bake in a fairly hot oven for about 1 hour, then serve
hot.
Time. — To bake, about 1 hour. Average Cost, 6d. to is. 2d. pei lb.
Sufficient for 8 persons. Seasonable at any time.
514. — HALIBUT PIE. (Fr.- — Pate de Halibute.)
(Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 3 lb. of halibut, 2 ozs. of butter, \ a pint of melted
butter, No. 202, 1 teaspoonful of anchovy-essence, salt and pepper,
rough puff-paste.
Method. — Remove all the skin and bone, and divide the fish into
small thick slices. Place these in a piedish in layers, sprinkling each
layer with salt and pepper, and intersperse small pieces of butter.
Make the melted butter as directed, add the anchovy-essence, and
season to taste. Pour the sauce over the fish, cover it with paste,
and bake for about 1 hour in a moderately-hot oven.
Time. — To bake, about 1 hour. Average Cost, 6d. to is. 2d. per
lb. Sufficient for 6 to 8 persons. Seasonable all the year.
33« HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
515.— HALIBUT, STEWED.
Ingredients. — 3 or 4 lb. of halibut, beer, 1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of flour
1 small onion stuck with 2 cloves, 1 bay-leaf, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-
juice, salt and pepper.
Method. — This cooking process is particularly adapted for the head
and shoulders. Wash and dry the fish thoroughly, put it into a stew-
pan, and barely cover it with beer. Add the onion, bay-leaf, and a
little salt and pepper, and bring gently to boiling point. Knead the
butter and flour smoothly together, add the mixture in small pieces
to the contents of the stewpan when boiling, and simmer gently until
the fish separates readily from the bone. Transfer the fish carefully
to a hot dish, add the lemon-juice to the liquor, season to taste, strain
and pour a little round the fish, and serve the rest separately.
Time. — To stew, about £ an hour. Average Cost, 9d. to is. 2d. per
lb. Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons. Seasonable all the year.
Note. — Halibut may also be cooked according to the numerous methods
given for dressing cod.
516. — HERRINGS, BAKED, FRESH. (Fr.— Harengs
Frais.)
Ingredients. — 12 herrings, 2 bay-leaves, 12 allspice, 6 cloves, a good
pinch of ground mace, salt and pepper, v inegar.
Method. — Wash the herrings in 3 or 4 waters, cut off the heads, and
remove the gut. Place them in a pie-dish, heads and tails alternately,
sprinkle each layer with salt and pepper, and and the flavouring in-
gredients. Cover the fish with vinegar, or, when vinegar is not much
liked, with equal quantities of vinegar and water, and bake for if
hours in a very slow oven. Serve cold.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, 6d. to is. per dozen. Suffic/ent
for 9 persons. Seasonable, May to November.
517. — HERRINGS, BAKED, FRESH.
Ingredients. — 12 fresh herrings, salt and pepper, vinegar, 1 or 2 Spanish
onions.
Method.— Wash the herrings in 3 or 4 waters, cut off the heads, split
them open, and remove tfie gut and backbone. Season well with salt
and pepper, and roll them up tightly, beginning with the neck of the
fish. Pack the herrings closely in a pie-dish, cover them with thin
slices of onion, half fill the dish with equal quantities of vinegar and
water, and bake in a very slow oven for 2 hours. When done, remove
the onion, but let the fish remain in the dish in which they were cooked
until ready to serve.
RECIPES FOR COOKING FISH
339
518. — HERRINGS, FRESH, STUFFED AND BAKED.
Ingredients. — 6 herrings, 2 tablespoonfuls of breadcrumbs, 1 table-
spoonful of finely-chopped suet, 1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley,
\ of a teaspoonful of grated lemon-rind, salt and pepper, milk.
Method. — Wash and split the herrings and remove the backbone.
Mix the above ingredients to make a forcemeat ; season each herring
with salt and pepper, spread on a thin layer of the forcemeat and roll
up tightly, beginning with the neck. Pack closely in a greased pie-
dish, cover with greased paper, and bake from 1 to ij hours in a mod-
erate oven. Serve hot.
Time. — to i| hours. Average Cost, 5d. to 6d. Sufficient for 5 per-
sons. Seasonable, May to November.
The Herring (Fr. hay eng) is widely distributed in the North Atlantic. During the greater part
of the year this fish inhabits deep water, but in the summer and autumn it frequents in vast shoals
the warmer waters of the coasts of Scotland and the eastern coasts of England for the purpose of
spawning. The herring is one of the most prolific of fish, and notwithstanding the devastation caused
to the shoals by the dog-fish, hake and gulls, and by the vast quantities of herring captured, the
fecundity of this fish is such that no sensible decrease of its number is apparent. The herring fishery,
especially that of the Scotch coasts and the eastern coasts of England, constitutes a most important
industry. The flavour of the flesh of the herring varies in quality according to different localities ;
those caught in the neighbourhood of Loch Fyne, on the west coast of Scotland, having the highest
reputation for delicacy of flavour,
519. — HERRINGS, RED, OR YARMOUTH BLOATERS.
Method. — The best way to cook these is to make incisions in the skin
across the fish, because they do not then require to be so long on the
fire, and will be far better than when cut open. Place them on a
buttered gridiron, broil over or before a clear fire for 5 minutes turn-
ing frequently. The hard roe makes a nice relish if pounded in a
mortar, with a little anchovy, and spread on toast. If very dry, soak
the bloaters in warm water 1 hour before dressing.
Time. — 5 minutes. Average Cost, iid. each. Seasonable, May to
November.
520. — HERRINGS, POTTED.
Ingredients. — 1 dozen large herrings, 1 pint of white vinegar, pepper
and salt, 2 bay -leaves, clarified butter.
Method. — Remove the heads and tails from the herrings, wash, clean,
and dry them, and sprinkle them inside and out with salt and pepper.
Put the herrings in an earthenware dish, lay 'the roes beside them, and
cover them with good white \inegar. Bake for 2 hours in a moderate
oven, then take out the bones, strain off the vinegar, pound the flesh in a
mortar, rub through a fine sieve, press into small pots, and pour clari-
fied butter on the top.
Time. — 2 hours. Average Cost, 6d. to Qd. per dozen. Sufficient
for 4 pots. Seasonable from May to November.
340
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
521. — KEDGEREE.
Ingredients.— Any cold fish (dried haddock is generally preferred) ;
to 1 lb. of fish allow \ of a lb. of rice, 2 hard-boiled eggs, 2 ozs. of butter,
salt and pepper, cayenne.
Method. — Boil and dry the rice, divide the fish into small flakes,
cut the whites of the eggs into slices, and rub the yolks through a wire
sieve. Melt the butter in a stewpan, add to it the fish, rice, whites of
eggs, salt, pepper and cayenne, and stir the ingredients over the fire
until hot. Turn the mixture on to a hot dish, press it into a pyra-
midical form with a fork, decorate with the yolk of egg, and serve as
hot as possible.
Time. — From 40 to 50 minutes. Average Cost, iod. to is. 2d.
Allow 1 lb. fish for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
522. — LAMPREY, BAKED. ( Fr . — Lamproie au Four.)
Ingredients. — 1 medium-sized lamprey, suet farce, No. 407, 1 egg,
breadcrumbs, fat for basting, anchovy sauce or any other fish sauce
preferred, 1 lemon.
Method. — Rub the fish well with salt, wash it in warm water, and
remove the cartilage and strings which run down the back. Fill the
body with the prepared farce, sew it up securely, and fasten round 2
or 3 thicknesses of buttered or greased paper. Cover the fish with hot
water, boil gently for 20 minutes, then drain and dry well. Put it
into a baking-dish, in which a little butter or fat has been previously
melted, and baste well. Bake gently for about } an hour, basting
frequently, then strip off the skin, brush the fish over with beaten egg,
and coat it lightly with breadcrumbs. Bake the fish for about 20
minutes longer, or until nicely-browned, then serve it garnished with
sliced lemon, and send the sauce to table in a tureen.
Time. — About i-j- hours. Average Cost, uncertain. Sufficient for 4 or
5 persons. Seasonable at any time.
The Lamprey (Fr. lamproie) is an eel-like, scaleless fish, with gills in the form of a series of pouches
on the side of the neck. Its mouth is circular, resembling a sucker, lined with a number of homy
processes or teeth ; it has no pectoral or ventral fins, but a median dorsal fin is continued backward
to form a tail-fin. By its sucker-like mouth the lamprey attaches itself to its prey, from which it
sucks the blood, respiration being carried on by the gills at the side of its neck. The lamprey was
esteemed by the Romans, and during the Middle Ages it was regarded as a delicacy. Henry I. of
England is said to have died from the effects of too free an indulgence in his favourite dish.
523. — LAMPREY, STEWED. (Fr. — Ragout de
Lamproie.)
Ingredients. — 1 medium-sized lamprey, -J of a pint of stock or water,
1 glass of port or sherry, 1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, 1 lemon sliced,
1 teaspoonful of lemon- juice, 2 small onions sliced, 2 or 3 mushrooms
or 6 button mushrooms, 1 bay-leaf, salt and pepper.
RECIPES FOR COOKING FISH
34i
Method. — Wash thoroughly in salted warm water, remove the head,
tail and fins, and cut the fish across into 2 - inch lengths. Bring
the stock or water to boiling point, put in the fish with the bay-
leaf and necessary seasoning, and simmer gently for hour. Mean-
while melt the butter in another stewpan, fry the onion slightly, then
add the flour, and fry slowly until well -browned. When the fish has
stewed 1 hour, pour the liquor from it over the prepared butter and
flour, stir until boiling, then put in the mushrooms, wine and lemon-
juice. Place the fish in the prepared sauce, simmer gently for \ an hour
longer, serve with the sauce strained over, and garnish with slices of
lemon.
Time. — To stew, about i4 hours. Average Cost, uncertain. Sufficient
for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.
524. — LING, BAKED. ( Fr . — Lingue Rotie.)
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of ling, 3 ozs. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, £ of a pint of
milk, salt and pepper, ground mace.
Method. — Wash and dry the fish, and cut it into slices £ of an inch
thick. Put these into a baking-dish, add 2 ozs. of butter, a good pinch
of mace, a liberal seasoning of salt and pepper, cover with a dish or
greased paper, and cook gently for 1 hour, basting occasionally. When
the fish is rather more than half cooked, melt the remaining oz. of
butter in a saucepan, add the flour, cook for 2 or 3 minutes, put in
the milk, and stir until it boils. Pour the sauce over the fish and
continue to cook gently until done.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, jd. to Sd. per lb. Sufficient for
4 or 5 persons. Seasonable from September to April.
The Ling (Fr. lingue). — This fish is captured in vast quantities off the Orkney, Shetland and Western
Islands. It is also found off Flamborough Head and near the Scilly Islands. It is of the same species
as the hake, and, like that fish, is both cheap and nourishing. It is highly esteemed in Yorkshire ;
and no doubt ling of medium size, when freshly caught, compare favourably with all the cheaper kinds
of fish. Large ling are coarse ; but they are usually salted, dried, and exported to the southern parts
of Europe, where the live fish are not met with. In form the ling is not unlike the cod, but it is more
slender, and grows to the length of 6 or 7 feet. When boiled it is insipid, but when fried or baked
is both palatable and wholesome.
525. — LING, FRIED. ( Fr . — Lingue Frite.)
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of ling, 1 egg, breadcrumbs, frying-fat, salt and
pepper, flour.
Method. — Wash and dry the fish, and cut it into slices, sprinkle them
with salt and pepper, dredge well with flour, brush over with egg, and
cover with breadcrumbs (when well coated with flour the fish browns
nicely without the addition of egg and breadcrumbs). Fry in hot fat,
drain well, and serve with a suitable fish sauce.
Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, 5d. to 8d. per lb. Sufficient
for 4 or 5 persons.
342
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
526. — LOBSTER IN ASPIC. (Fr. — Homard en Aspic.)
Ingredients. — 1 large or 2 small lobsters, 1 pint of aspic jelly, 3 hard-
boiled eggs, a large lettuce, a few tarragon leaves, capers, olives stoned,
and truffles ; oil and vinegar, pepper and salt, Mayonnaise sauce
(. see Sauces).
Method. — Put into a quart border mould enough melted aspic jelly
to thinly cover it, and when it begins to set, arrange in it the flesh
of the body and claws of the lobster (which should be cut into neat
pieces) with a few tarragon leaves and capers, filling up the mould with
the jelly. Well wash, dry, and shred the lettuce, and mix with it the
remainder of the lobster, the oil and vinegar, with pepper and salt.
When the mould is firmly set, turn it out and pile the salad in the centre,
and around it as a border, masking it smoothly with a thick Mayon-
naise sauce. Lastly, garnish the whole with the eggs cut up, the coral
and the little claws of the lobster, the capers and truffles, etc.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, 3s. 6d., exclusive of sauce.
Sufficient for 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
The Lobster (Ft. homard) is found on most of the rocky' coasts of Great Britain, many European
shores, and on the coasts of North America. It is especially partial to clear water, and inhabits the
crevices of the rocks at the bottom of the shore. The lobster belongs to the order Decapoda, to the
section Macroura, or “ long tailed,” and is one of the “ stalk-eyed ” crustaceans. The body of the
lobster is composed of twenty segments or joints, of which six belong to the head, eight to the thorax or
chest, and six to the abdomen. Its tail is composed of several flat shell-like plates which, when spread
out in the form of a fan, is used as an organ for swimming. The first pair of ambulatory limbs form
the characteristic powerful claws, the pincers of which are furnished with knobs, and the lower part
is serrated. By means of the former it is enabled to hold firmly the stalks of sub-marine plants,
and with the latter it minces its food with great dexterity. The lobster is very prolific, and when in
spawn the female is said to be “ in berry,” the developing eggs being attached to the tail. Unlike
the crab, the young lobster does not undergo any metamorphosis in passing from the egg to the adult
state. Like others of its tribe, the lobster casts its shell each y eai. It is usually caught by pots
specially constructed, made of osiers, shaped somewhat like a wire mouse-trap, and baited with
garbage. When the lobster enters the trap it cannot get out again. The traps are fastened to a cord
and sunk in the sea, the place being marked by a buoy. In colour the lobster is of a deep bluish-
black, mottled with markings of a lighter hue ; on being boiled it changes to its familiar scarlet colour.
Large quantities of lobsters are caught on the coasts of North America, and are exported in large
quantities to this country. By the Fishery Act of 1877, no lobsters under 8 inches in length may be
captured, and by some local bye-laws of the Sea Fisheries' Committee a close season is fixed.
527. — LOBSTER, BAKED. ( Fr . — Homard au Gratin.)
Ingredients. — i lobster, ozs. of butter, 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of
white sauce, 1 egg, the juice of \ a lemon, 1 dessertspoonful of finely-
chopped parsley, \ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped shallots, brown
breadcrumbs, nutmeg, salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the lobster in two lengthwise, remove the meat from
the shells, and mince it coarsely. Melt the butter in a stewpan,
fry the shallots for 2 or 3 minutes without browning, then add the
lobster, white sauce, parsley, lemon-juice, a pinch of nutmeg, as well
as salt and pepper to taste ; then stir over the fire until thoroughly
hot. Beat the egg slightly, add it to the mixture, and cook until it
begins to bind. Have ready the two halves of the large shell, put in the
mixture, cover lightly with brown breadcrumbs, put 3 or 4 very small
RECIPES FOR COOKING FISH 343
pieces of butter on the top, and bake for to or 15 minutes in a moder-
ate oven. Garnish with fried parsley.
Time. — i an hour. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
528. — LOBSTERS, TO BOIL. (Fr.— Homards.)
Ingredients. — \ of a lb. of salt to each gallon of water.
Method. — Buy the lobsters alive, and choose those that are heavy
and full of motion, which is an indication of their freshness. When
the shell is encrusted, it is a sign they are old : medium-sized lobsters
are the best. Have ready a stewpan of boiling water, salted in the pro=
portion mentioned above, put in the lobsters and keep them boiling
quickly from 20 to 45 minutes, according to their size, and do not forget
to skim well. If boiled too long, the meat becomes thready, and if
not done enough, the spawn is not red. Rub the shells over with a
little butter or sweet oil, which must be wiped off again.
Time. — Small lobster, 20 minutes to } an hour ; large ditto, \ to f
of an hour. Average Cost, medium size, is. to 3s. 6d. Seasonable all the
year, but best from June to September.
To Choose Lobsters. — This shell-fish, if it has been cooked alive, as it ought to have been, will
have a stiffness in the tail, which, if gently raised, will return with a spring. [Care, however, must
be taken in thus proving it, for if the tail is pulled straight out, it will not return. In order to be
good, lobsters should be weighty for their bulk; if light, they will be watery: those of the
medium size are always the best. They should be broad across the tail. The coral is red. The
spawn is sometimes sold uncooked at 3d. per ounce, and is then dark green, but it becomes red on
cooking. It should be rubbed through a sieve with a little butter. It is used to colour sauces
for cutlets, etc. Small-sized lobsters are cheapest, and answer very well for sauce.
529. — LOBSTER, COQUILLES OF. (Fr.— Coquilles de
Homard.)
Ingredients. — 1 lobster, mushrooms, butter, white sauce (No. 222),
salt, pepper, nutmeg, short crust paste, parsley.
Method. — Line some small shell-shaped moulds with light paste crust.
After pricking the paste with a fork fill the lined moulds with uncooked
rice or dried peas, and bake them in a moderate oven a golden-brown.
When done, take out the rice or peas, and place the pastry shells on a
sieve. Cut the meat of the lobster (preserved lobster of a reliable
brand will do) into small dice, put it in a stewpan with some chopped
mushrooms and butter, allowing 8 mushrooms and 4 an oz. of butter
to every lb. of lobster. Stir over the fire until thoroughly hot, then
moisten with white sauce. Season with pepper, salt, a little grated
nutmeg, and a pinch of cayenne. Keep the mixture hot in a bain-marie
so that it is ready for use when required. Warm the baked shells in
the oven, fill them with the mixture, strew over a little panurette
(a preparation of grated rusks, used instead of lobster coral for decora-
tion), or some fried breadcrumbs ; the former, however, makes the shells
more effective. Dish up on small plates, and garnish with a sprig or
two of parsley. A little anchovy-essence added to the mixture will
improve the flavour considerably.
344
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Time.— About 30 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. to 2s. 6d. Suflicient
for 3 persons. Seasonable from April to October.
530. — LOBSTER CREAM (Hot). (Fr.— Creme de
Homard, Chaude.)
Ingredients. — 1 lobster, 1 oz. of butter, 2 ozs. of flour, f of a pint of
milk, f of a pint of cream, the yolks of 2 eggs, salt and pepper, cayenne.
Method. — Melt the butter in a small stewpan, add the flour, pour
in the milk, and stir over the fire until the panada (or culinary paste)
leaves the sides of the stewpan clear, and forms a compact mass round
the bowl of the spoon, then put aside to cool. Cut one claw of the
lobster into small dice, and set aside until wanted ; pound the rest of the
lobster in a mortar with the panada, yolks of eggs, and seasoning.
Rub the mixture through a wire sieve into a basin, add the dice of
lobster, and the cream (stiffly-whipped), and mix all well, but lightly,
together. Turn into a well-buttered mould, cover with a buttered
paper, and steam very gently for 1 hour. The saucepan must have a
close-fitting lid to keep in the steam. The water should reach about
half-way up the mould. Serve with a suitable sauce.
Time. — About if hours, altogether. Average Cost, 2s. to 2s. 6d.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
531. — LOBSTER CREAM (Cold). (Fr. — Mousse de
Homard, a la Supreme.)
Ingredients. — 1 small lobster, 2 whitings, 1 gill of cream, 2 ozs. of
butter, 2 ozs. of flour, 1 gill of fish stock made from bones of the whitings,
4 eggs, salt, paprika pepper, cayenne.
Method. — Skin the whitings, remove the bones, and use the latter
for the fish stock required. Split the lobster, take the meat from the
shell, cut it into small pieces, pound it with the whitings together
in a mortar, then pass through a wire sieve. Make a panada with 1 oz.
of butter, 2 ozs. of flour, and the gill of fish stock, and work it thor-
oughly. Return the whiting puree to the mortar with the panada,
mix well, and work in the yolks of 4 and the whites of 2 eggs. When
well pounded pass all through a hair sieve, season with salt, paprika
pepper, and a little cayenne. Whisk the 2 whites of eggs to a stiff
froth, also whip the cream, and add to the mixture. Have ready a
plain charlotte or souffle mould, well buttered, three parts fill it with the
above preparation, cover with buttered paper, place it in a stewpan
containing some boiling water, and steam very gently for about f of
an hour. Serve very hot with Supreme sauce poured over the cream.
A little more cream may be added to the mixture than the above given
quantity if a richer dish is desired.
Time. — To steam about f hour. Average Cost, 3s. to 3s. 6d. Suffi-
cient for 7 or 8 persons. Seasonable at any time.
FISH,
i. Boiled Cod with French Sauce. 2. Whitebait. 3. Savoury Haddock in
Rice Border.
14
in
RECIPES FOR COOKING FISH
345
532. — LOBSTER CURRY. (Fr. — Homard au Kari.)
Ingredients. — 1 lobster (or tinned lobster of a reliable brand), f of a
pint of fish stock and milk mixed, or all milk may be used, 1 table-
spoonful of grated cocoanut, 1 dessertspoonful of curry- powder,
1 teaspoonful of flour, 1 teaspoonful of curry-paste, 2 ozs. of butter,
1 large onion, 1 apple (green gooseberries or rhubarb may be
substituted), salt, lemon-juice.
Method. — Melt the butter in a stewpan, put in the onion (coarsely
chopped), the flour and curry-powder, and fry these gently for 10
minutes. Add the stock, milk, curry-paste, cocoanut, sliced apple,
and salt, stir the mixture until it boils, then cover closely, and simmer
gently for 1 hour, stirring occasionally. Remove the flesh from the
lobster, and cut it into inch-square pieces. When the sauce is ready,
rub it through a fine sieve or strainer, return it to the saucepan, add
seasoning to taste, and re-heat. Just before it reaches boiling point,
put in the pieces of lobster, cover closely, and draw the stewpan to the
side of the stove for 15 or 20 minutes, to allow the lobster to become
hot and impregnated with the flavour of the sauce, add lemon-juice
to taste, and serve with boiled rice.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, 2s. to 2s. 6d. Sufficient for 4
or 5 persons. Seasonable from April to October.
Note. — Crayfish, prawns and other fish may be curried according to the
directions given above ; in all cases the fish must be cooked before being added
to the sauce.
533.— LOBSTER CUTLETS. (Fr.— Cotelettes de
Homard.)
Ingredients.— 1 hen lobster, 1^ ozs. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, \ of a pint
of milk or water, 1 tablespoonful of cream, 1 egg, breadcrumbs, salt,
cayenne, parsley, frying fat.
Method. — Remove the flesh from the lobster, and chop it into small
pieces. Pound the spawn (if any) with an oz. of butter, and pass
it through a hair sieve. Melt t oz. of butter in a small stewpan, stir
in the flour, add the milk, and boil well. Then add to it the lobster,
cream, spawn, cayenne, and salt, mix well together, and turn on to a
plate to cool. When the mixture is firm enough to mould, make it up
into cutlets, cover them with egg and breadcrumb, and fry until
nicely browned in hot fat. Dish in a circle, putting a piece of
lobster feeler in each cutlet to represent a bone, and garnish with fried
parsley.
Time. — About 2 or 2\ hours. Average Cost, is. 9d. to 2s. 3d.
Sufficient for 9 or 10 small cutlets. Seasonable from April to October.
346 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
f*
534. — LOBSTER CROQUETTES. (Fr.— Croquettes
de Homard.)
For formula see Chicken Croquettes, or use recipe given in tinned
food section.
535. — LOBSTER DEVILLED. (Fr— Homard a la
Diable.)
Ingredients. — 1 good lobster, 3 tablespoonfuls of white breadcrumbs,
a few browned breadcrumbs, \\ ozs. of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of white
sauce or cream, cayenne.
Method. — Cut the lobster in two lengthwise, remove the meat care-
fully, as the large shell must be kept whole, and chop the meat finely.
Melt the butter, pour it on to the lobster, add the breadcrumbs, and
white sauce, season rather highly with cayenne, and mix well. Press
the mixture lightly into the lobster shell, cover with browned bread-
crumbs, put 3 or 4 pieces of butter on the top, and bake for about
20 minutes in a moderate oven. Serve hot or cold.
Time. — From 35 to 45 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. to 3s. Sufficient
for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.
536. — LOBSTERS, TO DRESS.
Wash the lobster well before boiling, tie the claws securely, and throw
the lobster, head first, into a saucepan of salted boiling water : this
method instantly destroys life. Then boil the lobster gently from 20
to 40 minutes, according to its size, but avoid overcooking, which
causes the flesh to become hard. When cool enough to handle, rub
over with a little salad-oil to brighten the colour. When quite cold,
break off the claws and tail, and divide the latter lengthwise by the line
running from head to tail. Place the body upright in the centre of a
dish, with one-half of the tail on either side, and at the ends arrange
the claws, which should previously be cracked with a hammer without
injuring the flesh. The dish should be garnished tastefully with
parsley.
Time. — From 20 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, is. 3d. to 3s. 6d. each,
according to size.
537. - LOBSTER, BAKED, FRENCH STYLE.
(Fr. — Homard au Gratin.)
Ingredients. — 1 lobster, 4 tablespoonfuls of white stock, 2 tablespoon-
fuls of cream, pounded mace and cayenne to taste, bread-crumbs, puff
paste.
Method. — Pick the meat from the shell, and cut it up into small
square pieces, put the stock, cream and seasoning into a stewpan,
add the lobster, and let it simmer gently for 6 minutes. Serve it in
347
Recipes for cooking fish
the shell, which must be nicely cleaned, and have a border of puff-paste.
Cover it with breadcrumbs, place small pieces Of butter over, and
brown before the fire, or with a salamander. If tinned lobster is used,
a shallow pie-dish replaces the shell.
Time. — p of an hour. Average Cost, 2s , 6d; Sufficient for 4 persons.
Seasonable at any time,
538. — LOBSTER MAYONNAISE* (Fr.~ Mayonnaise
de Homard.)
Ingredients.— 1 large lobster, 4 filleted Gorgona anchovies* i hard-
boiled egg, 6 stoned olives, 4 gherkins, a few slices of pickled beetro'Ot,
a tiblespoonful of capers, 1 largeo r 2 small lettuces* Mayonnaise sauce.
Method. — Cut the lobster in two lengthwise, break the claws carefully,
remove the meat intact, if possible, and cut the remainder of the
lobster into small pieces. Wash and dry the lettuce, tear it into small
pieces, put it into a bowl with the small pieces of lobster, and add
gradually sufficient Mayonnaise to moisten the whole. Arrange this
in the centre of a round dish in the form of a dome, mask it with
very stiff Mayonnaise sauce* and surround it with pieces of hard-
boiled egg. Garnish tastefully with strips of anchovy, strips or slices
of gherkin, fancifully-cut pieces of beetroot, olives, and capers. Keep
on ice until required, and serve as cool as possible
Time. — Half an hour. Average Cost, 3s. 6d. to 4s. Sufficient for
6 to 8 persons. Seasonable from April to October.
539. — LOBSTER PATTIES. (Fr.— Petits Pates de
Homard.)
Ingredients.— 1 lb. of puff-paste, 1 small lobster, i-l- ozs. of butter,
of an oz. of flour, the yolks of 3 eggs,J of a pint of fish stock or milk
(about), \ a gill of cream, \ a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, a few drops
of anchovy-essence, cayenne, salt, parsley.
Method. — When giving the paste its last turn, roll it out to a thick-
ness of \ an inch, and with a hot wet cutter of 2\ inches diameter
stamp out 8 or 9 rounds of paste. Brush them over with a beaten egg,
then make an inner ring to about \ the depth of the paste with a i-ineh
diameter cutter, previously dipped in hot water. Bake them in a hot
oven from 20 to 25 minutes, then remove and take care of the tops,
scoop out the soft inside, and keep the patty-cases warm. Melt the
butter in a stewpan, add the flour, and cook a few minutes, then pour
in the fish stock or milk, and stir until the sauce boils. Simmer for
10 minutes, add the cream, yolks of eggs, lemon-juice, anchovy-essence,
and seasoning to taste, simmer gently until the yolks of the eggs thicken,
then pass through a cloth or fine sieve. Return to the stewpan, put
in the lobster (cut into dice) ; when thoroughly hot put into the cases,
put on the covers, garnish with parsley, and serve.
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
348
Time. — \ hour after the paste is made. Average Cost, is. 8d., ex-
clusive of the paste. Sufficient for 8 or 9 patties. Seasonable from
April to October.
540. — LOBSTER, POTTED. (Fr. — Terrine de Homard.)
Ingredients. — 2 lobsters, 6 ozs. of butter, ground mace, grated nutmeg,
salt and p:pper.
Method. — Remove the meat carefully from the shell, keeping the pieces
as large as possible. Put them into a baking-dish with \ of the butter,
add a sprinkling of mace and nutmeg, season well with salt and pepper,
cover with a dish or 2 or 3 folds of well-greased paper, and bake in a
gentle oven for about 1 hour. Lift the pieces of lobster carefully into
small pots, and pack them as close together as possible, otherwise a
large amount of butter will be required. Strain the butter over them,
and when cold cover with clarified butter.
Time. — ij to i-i- hours. Average Cost, for this quantity, 3s. 6d. to
4s. Cd. Sufficient for 5 or 6 small pots.
541. — LOBSTER, RAGOUT OF. (Fr. — Ragout de
Homard.)
Ingredients, —i large lobster, 1 gill of white sauce, No. 222, \ a
of fish stock or water, 2 yolks of eggs, 1 oz. of butter, mace, pepper and
salt.
Method. — Remove the flesh from the shell, keeping it as whole as
possible, and divide into pieces t inch square. Pound the spawn in a
mortar with the butter, add a pinch of mace and salt and pepper to
taste, and pass the mixture through a fine sieve. Put the sauce and
stock into a stewpan, boil up, season to taste, and add the yolks of
eggs, spawn, butter and lobster. Cook gently for a few minutes to
remove the raw taste of the eggs, then serve.
Time. — About | an hour. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. to 3s. Sufficient for
5 or 6 persons. Seasonable, from April to October.
542. — LOBSTER RISSOLES. (Fr. — Rissoles de
Homard.)
Ingredients. — 1 small lobster, puff-paste trimmings, 1 yolk of egg
1 or 2 tablespoonfuls of white sauce or fish sauce, ^ a teaspoonful of
finely-chopped parsley, cayenne, egg and breadcrumbs, frying-fat.
Method. — Remove the flesh of the lobster from the shell, and chop
it finely. Put it into a saucepan with the yolk of egg, white sauce,
parsley, and a pinch of cayenne, and stir over the fire until thoroughly
hot. Season to taste, turn it on to a plate, and put aside until cold.
Roll the paste out as thinly as possible, stamp out into rounds about
2 inches in diameter, and place a little of the lobster preparation in the
RECIPES FOR COOKING FISH
349
centre of each. Moisten the edge of the paste with cold water, fold over
in a half-moon shape, and coat carefully with egg and breadcrumbs,
or, if preferred, egg and crushed vermicelli. Have ready a deep pan
of hot fat, fry the rissoles to a golden-brown colour, then drain well,
dish up and serve.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, is. 3d to is. iod. Sufficient for
about 10 rissoles. Seasonable at any time.
543. — LOBSTER SALAD. (Fr.~ Salade de Homard.)
Ingredients. — 1 hen lobster, lettuces, endive, small salad (whatever
is in season), a little chopped beetroot, 2 hard-boiled eggs, a few slices
of cucumber. For dressing : 4 tablespoonfuls of oil, 2 tablespoonfuls
of vinegar, 1 teaspoonful of made mustard, the yolks of 2 eggs, cayenne
and salt to taste, I of a teaspoonful of anchovy sauce. These in-
gredients should be mixed perfectly smooth, and form a creamy sauce.
Method. — Wash the salad, and thoroughly dry it by shaking it in a
cloth. Cut up the lettuces and endive, pour the dressing on them,
and lightly mix it in the small salad. Blend all well together with
the meat of the lobster. Pick the meat from the claws, cut it up
into nice square pieces, put half in the salad, and reserve the other
half for garnishing. Separate the yolks from the whites of 2
hard-boiled eggs, chop the whites finely, and rub the yolks through
a sieve. Arrange the salad lightly on a glass dish, and garnish, first
with a row of sliced cucumber, then with the pieces of lobster, the yolks
and whites of the eggs, coral and beetroot placed alternately, and
arrange in small separate groups, so that the colours contrast nicely.
Tinned lobsters may be used.
Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for 6
persons. Seasonable from April to October.
Note. — A few crayfish make an effective garnish to lobster salad.
544. — MACKEREL, BAKED. (Fr. — Maquereau Farci
a la Maitre d’Hotel.)
Ingredients. — 2 mackerel of medium size, veal forcemeat ( see Force-
meats), 1 oz. of butter or sweet dripping, pepper and salt, flour.
Method. — Clean the fish, take out the roes, put in the forcemeat,
and sew up the opening. Put them with the roes into a baking-dish,
add the butter or dripping, dredge with flour, sprinkle well with salt and
pepper, and bake from 30 to 40 minutes, basting occasionally. Serve
with parsley sauce, or melted butter sharpened by the addition of
lemon-juice, and finely chopped parsley-
Time. — About 1 hour altogether. Average Cost, 6d. to 9d. each.
Suffieient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable from April to July.
35o
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
545. — MACKEREL, BOILED, WITH PARSLEY SAUCE.
(Fr — Maquereau Bouilli.)
Ingredients. — 2 mackerel, water, salt, parsley sauce (No. 311).
Method. — Remove the roes, wash the fish, put them into the fish-
kettle, with just sufficient hot water to cover them, and add salt to
taste. Bring the water gently to near boiling point, then draw the
kettle aside, and cook very gently for about 10 minutes. If cooked
too quickly, or too long, the skin is liable to crack, and spoil the ap-
pearance of the fish. It is a sure indication that the fish is sufficiently
cooked when the skin becomes loose from the flesh. Drain well, place
the mackerel on a hot dish, pour over them a little parsley sauce,
and serve the remainder separately in a tureen. Fennel and anchovy
sauces may also be served with boiled mackerel.
Time. — From 10 to 15 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. to 9d. each. Suffi-
cient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable from April to July.
The Mackerel (Fr. maquereau) is not only one of the most elegantly shaped, but one of the most
beautifully coloured of the fish that frequent our coasts. The characteristic metallic lustre of its
body is familiar to all. The mackerel is a migratory fish, and visits in enormous shoals the coasts of
England in May and June, and those of Scotland in July and August. It is captured by means of
drift-nets, in which it is caught by entangling its head in the meshes. The mackerel spawns in May
and June. The Romans were acquainted with this fish, and made from its fat the celebrated “ sarum,”
or " relish.” The mackerel rarely exceeds the weight of 2 lb. ; its ordinary length is between 14 and
20 inches. When taken out of the water it dies immediately, and for a short time emits a phos-
phorescent light.
546. — MACKEREL, BROILED. (Fr. — Maquereau
Grille.)
Ingredients. — i large mackerel, a little salad-oil, or butter, salt and
pepper.
Method.— Do not wash the fish, but wipe it clean and dry. Split
it down the back, sprinkle it well with seasoning, and brush lightly
over with salad-oil or warm butter. The fish has a more delicate
flavour if wrapped in a well-buttered paper, but it may be broiled
without it. The fire must be clear, and the fish should be turned
frequently. Allow 15 to 20 minutes for a mackerel of medium-size,
and a few minutes longer when broiled in paper. Serve with Maitre
d’Hotel butter or Maitre d’Hotel sauce (No. 200).
Xime. — X5 to 2s minutes. Average Cost, from 6d. to iod. Sufficient
for 2 or 3 persons. Seasonable from April to July.
547. — MACKEREL, FILLETS OF. (Fr— Filets de
Maquereau a la Bechamel.)
Ingredients. — 2 medium-sized mackerel, of a pint of Bechamel
sauce, i l ozs. of butter, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, salt and pepper.
Method. — Wash, dry, and fillet the fish. Melt the butter in a saute-
pan, and fry the fillets without browning them. Remove the fish and
keep it hot, put in the Bechamel sauce, and bring nearly to boiling
point ; then return the fish to the stewpan, cover closely, and simmer
RECIPES FOR COOKING FISH
35i
gently for 10 minutes. Remove the fish carefully to a hot dish, add
the lemon-juice to the sauce, season if necessary, and strain over the
fish.
Time. — About \ an hour. Average Cost, 6d. to is. Sufficient for
4 persons. Seasonable from April to July.
548. — MACKEREL, PICKLED. (Fr — Maquereau
Marine.)
Ingredients. — 2 or 3 mackerel, \ a pint of vinegar, water, 12 pepper-
corns, 2 bay-leaves, allspice, salt and pepper.
Method. — Clean and wash the fish and take out the roes. Place the
mackerel in an earthenware baking-dish with the roes (mackerel are
best in that part of the season when the roes are not full grown), sprinkle
them well with salt and pepper, add the bay-leaves, allspice, peppercorns,
vinegar, and about -J of a pint of water, cover with a greased paper,
and bake in a cool oven for nearly 1 hour. Let them remain in the
liquor until required.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 6d. to is. each. Sufficient
for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable from April to July.
549. — MACKEREL, SMOKED. (. Fr . — Maquereau fume.)
Ingredients. — Mackerel, common salt, to each 8 ozs. of which add 1 oz.
of saltpetre.
Method. — Clean and open the fish, empty the inside and dry
thoroughly. Cover thickly with salt and saltpetre, let them remain
from 24 to 36 hours, according to size, then drain well. Hang the
mackerel in a row by means of a stick pushed through the sockets
of the eye, and dry them in the sun or expose them to the heat of the
fire for a day or two. If the ordinary means of smoking in the chimney
are available they should be employed; if not, half till an old cask, open
at both ends, with sawdust, put a red-hot iron in the middle of it, and
suspend the fish across the cask, which must be covered to keep in the
smoke. In about 30 hours the fish will be ready.
550. — MULLET, GREY. (Fr — Surmulet.)
Ingredients. — 4 grey mullet.
Method. — Clean the fish, and, if very large, place them in warm
salted water ; if small, they may be put into hot water, and cooked
gently for 15 or 20 minutes. Serve with anchovy or melted butter
sauce.
Time. — From 15 to 20 minutes. Average Cost, is. qd. to 2s.
Allow t small mullet to each person. Seasonable all the year, but
best from July to October.
The Grey Mullet (Fr. surmulet) is quite a different fish from the red mullet, which belongs to the
family of the Mullidac. The grey, or true mullet, of the family Mugilidae, is found round the English
coasts, and attains to the length of 18 to 20 inches.
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
352
551. — MULLET RED, GRILLED, MAiTRE D’HOTEL
STYLE. (Fr. — Rougets grilles a la Maitre
d’Hotel.)
Ingredients. — 3 or 4 fish, salad-oil, maitre d’hotel or parsley butter,
salt and pepper.
Method. — Procure 3 or 4 fresh red mullet, wipe them with a damp
cloth, and make 3 or 4 incisions across each fish with a sharp knife.
Put the fish on a dish, pour over them 3 or 4 tablespoonfuls of salad-
oil, season with salt and pepper, and let them stand thus for about
1 hour. Meanwhile, prepare some Maitre d' Hotel butter, made with
1 oz. of butter, chopped parsley, and lemon juice. See that
the gridiron is perfectly clean, and the fire suitable for grilling.
Grease the gridiron, place the red mullet on it, and cook them slowly
over, or in front of, a bright fire, turning frequently. When done put
some Maitre d’Hotel butter on a dish, place the red mullets upon
this, spread a little more Maitre d’Hotel butter on top of each fish,
garnish with fresh parsley, and serve hot.
Time. — To grill, from 10 to 1 2 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. to 3s.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable at any time, but best in the
in summer.
552. — MULLET RED, GRILLED. (Fr.— Rougets
Grilles.)
Ingredients. — 3 moderate-sized fish, 2 ozs. of butter, 1 dessertspoon-
ful finely-chopped parsley, pepper and salt, the juice of a lemon.
Method. — After cleaning the fish, replace the livers with some finely-
chopped parsley and seasoning, mixed with butter. Wrap each fish
in an oiled paper, sprinkling over them some of the seasoning, and grill
them over a red fire, holding a salamander above so as to avoid turning
them. When done, squeeze the juice of the lemon over them, and
serve.
Time. — To grill, from 10 to 12 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. 6d.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time, but most plentiful
in summer.
553. — MULLET RED, IN CASES. ( Fr . — Rougets en
Papillottes.)
Ingredients. — 4 small red mullet, an oz. of butter, -1- an oz. of flour,
\ a teaspoonful of anchovy sauce, a glass of sherry, salt, cayenne,
oiled paper.
Method. — Clean the fish, remove the fins and gills, but leave the in-
side, as the liver is considered the choicest part of the fish. Fold each
mullet in oiled or buttered paper, and bake gently from 20 to 25 minutes.
Knead the butter and flour smoothly, add it, together with the anchovy
essence and the sherry, to the liquor which has oozed from the fish,
FISH
i. Red Mullet. 2. Lobster Salad. 3. Salmon.
3d
76
RECIPES FOR COOKING FISH 353
season to taste, and simmer for 10 minutes. Serve the fish without the
paper, and the sauce in a sauce boat.
Time. — About 35 minutes, altogether. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. to 3s.
Sufficient for 4 persons. Seasonable at any time, but more plentiful in
summer.
554. — MULLET, RED, WITH TARTAR SAUCE.
(. Fr . — Rougets Sauce Tartare.)
Method. — Prepare and cook the fish as in the preceding recipe, but
without the paper cases, or grill them, and serve with Tartar sauce
( see Sauces, No. 213).
555. — MUSSELS. (Fr. — Moules.)
Ingredients. — 1 quart of mussels, 1 oz. of butter, \ an oz. of flour,
the yolks of 2 eggs, 1 tablespoonful of vinegar, 1 teaspoonful of chopped
parsley, salt and pepper.
Method. — Brush the shells thoroughly, and wash the mussels in
several waters. Put them into an iron saucepan without water (or
into a steamer). Sprinkle with a little salt, spread a clean wet cloth
over them, cover, and let them cook in the steam until the shells
open a little. Take them out of the shells, and strain the liquor
into a basin. Carefully remove the little weed which is found under
the black tongue. Melt the butter, add the flour, and cook for 3 or 4
minutes, then pour in the mussel liquor, and stir until it boils. Cool
slightly, then add the yolks of the eggs, vinegar and parsley, season
to taste, and stir by the side of the fire until the eggs thicken. Put in
the mussels to re-heat, and serve in the sauce.
Time. — About -b an hour. Average Cost, 8d. to iod. Sufficient for
2 or 3 persons. Seasonable all the year, but best in winter.
556. — OYSTERS DEVILLED. (Fr.— Huitres a la
Diable.)
Ingredients. — 1 dozen oysters, 1 oz. of butter, cayenne, salt, lemon,
brown bread, butter.
Method. — Open the oysters carefully so as to preserve as much of the
liquor as possible, and leave them in their shells. Sprinkle them
lightly with salt, and more liberally with cayenne, and to each one add
a small piece of butter. Place the oysters on a gridiron over a clear
slow fire until thoroughly heated, then serve with sliced lemon and
thin brown bread and butter.
Time. — 4 minutes, to cook. Average Cost, 2s. per dozen. Seasonable
from September to April.
557. — OYSTERS, FRICASSEED. (Fr.— Fricassee
aux Huitres.)
Ingredients. — 18 large oysters, ozs. of butter, J of an oz. of flour,
N
354
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
i gill of white stock, £ of a gill of cream, the yolks of 3 eggs, 1
teaspoonful of lemon-juice, salt, nutmeg, white pepper, 10 small heart-
shaped slices of fried bread.
Method. — Open the oysters, preserve the liquor, remove the beards,
put the oysters in a stewpan with 1 oz. of butter and a little oyster
liquor. Season with a pinch of salt, a grating of nutmeg, and a pinch
of pepper. Stir over the fire for 2 minutes and strain. Melt the re-
maining i-i- ozs. of the butter in a stewpan, stir in the flour, cook
slightly without browning and dilute with the liquor from the oysters,
the remainder of the oyster liquor, and the stock. Stir until it boils,
simmer for about 10 minutes, then add the cream, the yolks of the
eggs, and the lemon-juice, and stir the mixture over the fire a few
seconds longer to bind the yolks. Pass the sauce through a fine strainer
or tammy-cloth, put it in a saucepan with the oysters, heat thoroughly,
but on no account allow it to boil. Serve on a hot dish, garnished
with croutes of fried bread and a few sprigs of parsley.
Time. — About 15 minutes. Average Cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for 6 persons.
Seasonable from September to April.
558. — OYSTERS, FRIED. {Fr.— Huitres frites.)
Ingredients.— 1 dozen oysters, fritter batter, \ a teaspoonful of
finely-chopped parsley, J of a saltspoonful of grated lemon rind, frying-
fat.
Method. — Blanch the oysters in their own liquor, strain just before
boiling point is reached, drain and dry them well. Make the batter
as directed, and add the parsley and lemon-rind. Dip each oyster
separately in the batter, fry in hot fat until crisp and lightly browned,
then drain well and serve.
Time.— To fry, about 4 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. per dozen. Season-
able from September to April.
559. — OYSTER FRITTERS. {Fr.— Beignets aux
Huitres.) (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 12 large oysters, 3 ozs. of flour, \ of a pint of tepid
water, x tablespoonful of salad-oil or oiled butter, the Whites of
Z eggs, salt, frying-fat.
Method. — Make a batter by stirring the water and salad-oil, gradually
into the flour ; when perfectly smooth add the salt, and lastly the stiffly
whipped whites of eggs. Beard the oysters, dip them in the batter,
and fry them in hot fat until they acquire a golden-brown colour.
Time. — \ an hour. Average Cost, is. qd. to 2s. 3d. Sufficient for 6
persons. Seasonable from September to April.
The Oyster (Fr. hu'itre). — This delicious mollusc is the type of the family Otsmsidae, the members
of which are characterized by their inequivalve shells, i.e., one half or valve being larger than the
other. The valves are connected with a bundle of strong nerves in the body of the oyster, and by their
means the bivalve is able to hold its shells tightly together. The oyster is most prolific, its fertilized
RECIPES FOR COOKING FISH
35S
fcggs are known as spat, and enormous quantities of ova are produced from May to September. The
spat on becoming free consists of a tiny body enclosed within a minute shell, and is furnished with
filaments by which it first swims freely about, and then fixes itself to some substance. The oyster*
Which possesses a complete digestive system, consisting of a mouth, stomach, intestine and liver,
obtains its food from the minute organisms or particles of matter which flow into its mouth by the
currents of water which pass through its gills. From the time of the Romans, who highly appreciated
the oysters of Britain, this shell-fish has been a favourite delicacy, not only for its rich flavour, which
depends upon its feeding ground, but also for the nutritive qualities it possesses, making it especially
useful for invalids. Oysters attain their full growth in about three years, and in their attached state
form “ oyster-beds ” ; the most celebrated of those in England are the Whitstable and Colchester
beds. Oysters are largely cultivated in France, Denmark, Holland, Portugal, and America, and large
quantities are imported into Great Britain from the Continent and the United States. Owing to
over-dredging, the oyster-beds of England and France have become seriously impaired. Special
laws relating to the capture and preservation of oysters are in force, and the oyster fishery is under
the control of Fishery Boards, subject to the Board of Trade. The close time for deep-sea oysters
is from June 15 to August 4, and for other kinds from May 14 to August 4.
560. — OYSTER FRITTERS. (Fr. — Beignets aux
Huitres.) (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 12 oysters, 12 small thin slices of bacon, \ a lemon
parsley, frying-fat, frying-batter.
Method. — Sprinkle the oysters with lemon-juice, and roll each one
in a slice of bacon just large enough to enclose it. Make the batter
as directed, No. 559, put in the prepared oysters one or two at a time,
take them out on the point of a skewer, drain slightly, and at once
drop them into hot fat. Fry a pale golden-brown colour, drain well,
and serve garnished with crisply-fried parsley.
Time. — To fry, about 4 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. per dozen. .
561. — OYSTERS, TO KEEP.
Place them in a tub or other suitable vessel, cover with salt and
water, let the oysters remain undisturbed for 12 hours, then drain off
the water. Allow them to stand another 12 hours without water,
then repeat the process until required for use.
562. — OYSTERS, MARGUERITE STYLE. (F>.—
Huitres a la Marguerite.)
Ingredients. — 1 dozen large oysters, -J a stick of celery (white part
only), 1-)- ozs. of butter, 1 glass of sherry, 1 teaspoonful of cornflour,
24 large picked shrimps, a little stock, lemon-juice, seasoning, and
chopped parsley.
Method. — Beard the oysters, cut them in halves, and blanch them
in their own liquor, which should be preserved. Wash and trim the
celery, using only the white portions, chop it up rather finely, and
drain well on a cloth. Melt 1 oz. of butter in the chafing-dish or small
stew-pan, add the celery, and fry for about 10 minutes. Then add the
wine, the oysters, and their liquor, and season with salt and pepper.
Mix the cornflour with a little cold stock, and incorporate this with the
oysters, etc. Stir until it boils, adding a little more stock to moisten.
Flavour with a few drops of lemon-juice, and add the shrimps. Put
in the remainder of the butter, and cook very gently for 5 minutes.
Sprinkle with chopped parsley, and serve from the chafing-dish.
356
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Time. — 20 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. to 3s. Sufficient for 3
or 4 persons. Seasonable from September to April.
563. — OYSTERS, MARINER’S FASHION. ( Fr .—
Papillons d’Huitres, a, la Mariniere.)
Ingredients. — 18 sauce oysters, \ glass Chablis, 1 tablespoonful of
chopped parsley, 1 tablespoonful of chopped shallots, 1 oz. of fresh
breadcrumbs, 1 oz. of butter, \ a lemon, salt and pepper.
Method. — Beard the oysters, and put them with their liquor in a pie-
dish; pour the w'hite wine over them, and let it stand for about an hour.
Mix the parsley, chopped shallots, and breadcrumbs, and season to
taste with salt and pepper. Range the oysters in a buttered fireproof
baking-dish, pour over a little of the liquor and wine, and cover with
the mixture of breadcrumbs, etc. Divide the remainder of the butter
into small pieces, and place them on top. Bake in a fairly hot oven
for about 15 minutes. Squeeze a little lemon-juice on top, and send
to table in the baking-dish.
Time. — To bake, about 15 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. 9d. to 3s. 6d.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable from September to April.
564. — OYSTER OMELET. (Fr. — Omelette aux
• Huitres.)
Ingredients. — 6 eggs, 6 oysters, 1 tablespoonful of white sauce or fish
sauce, 1 tablespoonful of milk, salt and pepper, 1 oz. of butter.
Method. — Blanch the oysters in their own liquor without allowing
them to boil, then divide them in halves or quarters, and mix with
them the sauce, and seasoning to taste. Beat the eggs well, add the
milk, and salt and pepper to taste. Melt the butter in an omelet
pan, when hot pour in the eggs, stir until the mixture begins to set,
then place the oyster preparation in the centre, fold the sides in, finish
cooking, and serve.
Time. — Altogether, 20 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. to 2s. 6d.
565. — OYSTER PATTIES. (Fr.— Petites Bouchees
aux Huitres.)
Ingredients.— 1 lb. of puff-paste, 24 oysters, 2 ozs. of butter, 1 oz. of
flour, the yolks of 3 eggs, j- of a pint of fish stock or milk (about),
\ a gill of cream, i a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, salt and pepper,
parsley.
Method. — When the paste has had the necessary number of turns,
roll it out to a thickness of about \ an inch, and with a hot wet cutter
of 2} inches diameter stamp out 8 or 9 rounds of paste. Brush these
over w-ith beaten egg, then make an inner ring to about half the depth
of the paste with a cutter 1 inch in diameter, previously dipped in hot
RECIPES FOR COOKING FISH
357
water. Bake them in a hot oven for 20 or 25 minutes, then remove and
take care of the tops, scoop out the soft inside, and keep the patties
warm until required. Meanwhile put the oysters and their liquor into
a saucepan, let them come to the boil, drain them, put the liquor
aside, remove the beards, and cut each oyster in two. Melt the
butter in a stewpan, add the flour, and cook for 3 or 4 minutes, add
the oyster liquor with enough milk to make half a pint, and stir until
the sauce boils. Simmer for 10 minutes, add the cream, the yolks of
the eggs, lemon-juice, and seasoning to taste ; simmer again gently
until the yolks of the eggs thicken, then pass through a tammy-cloth
or fine sieve. Re-heat, add the oysters, and when thoroughly hot,
place in the puff-paste cases, put on the covers, garnish with parsley,
and serve.
Time. — \ an hour after the paste is made. Average Cost, about
2s. 6d., exclusive of the paste. Sufficient for 8 or 9 patties. Season-
able from September to April.
566. — OYSTER SAUSAGES.
Ingredients. — 12 sauce oysters, 1 lb. of veal, £ of a lb. of suet finely-
chopped, 1 thick slice of bread, 1 egg, butter or dripping for frying,
salt and pepper.
Method. — Open the oysters, preserve the liquor, remove the beards,
and cut the oysters into very small pieces. Strain the liquor over the
bread, let it soak until soft, then drain off any unabsorbed liquor,
and beat the bread with a fork until no lumps remain. Pass the veal
2 or 3 times through a mincing-machine, add the suet, bread, salt
and pepper to taste, and lastly the oysters and egg. The preparation
may be improved by being well pounded in a mortar, but it is not abso-
lutely necessary. When ready, press into skins, or shape in the form
of small sausages, roll lightly in flour seasoned witli salt and pepper,
and fry in hot butter or fat.
Time. — Altogether, ib hours. Average Cost, 2s. 3d.
567. — OYSTERS, SCALLOPED. (Fr. — Escalopes
aux Huitres.)
Ingredients. — 24 oysters, 1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, | pint of white
stock, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, pepper, salt, breadcrumbs, butter.
Method. — Remove the beards of the oysters and simmer them about
10 minutes in the oyster liquor. Have the oysters ready in a small
basin, strain the liquor on to them, and cover the basin to keep in the
steam. Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the flour, cook for 2 or 3
minutes, then pour in the stock and the oyster liquor, and stir until
the sauce boils. Simmer for 2 or 3 minutes, to ensure the flour being
thoroughly cooked, then add the cream and the oysters, and season to
taste. Have ready some well-buttered scallop-shells, in which the
358
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
oysters should be served, fill them with the oysters and the sauce,
cover with breadcrumbs, pour on a little melted butter, and bake in a
quick oven just long enough to brown the surface.
Time. — Altogether, 30 to 35 minutes. Average Cost, 3s. 3d. to 3s. 9d.
Sufficient for 6 persons. Seasonable from September to April.
568. — OYSTER SOUFFLE (Fr.— Souffle aux Huitres.)
Ingredients. — 2 small whitings, 6 large sauce oysters, i-J- ozs. of flour,
2 ozs. of butter, about \ pint of milk, £ gill of cream, -} a teaspoonful
of anchovy-essence, 3 eggs, seasoning.
Method. — Skin the whitings, remove all the meat from the bones,
and pound it in a mortar. Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the flour,
and cook a little without browning ; moisten with the milk and oyster
liquor, stir briskly until quite smooth, then add the cream. Cook a
little longer, but stir all the while. Remove the beards from the oysters,
cut the latter into dice, and put them into the mixture ; season to
taste with salt, pepper and nutmeg, work in the yolks of the eggs, the
anchovy-essence, and the pounded fish. Whisk the whites of the eggs
to a stilt froth, and mingle them carefully with the mixture. Three
parts fill a well-buttered souffle tin or Charlotte mould, steam for
about 45 minutes. Remove from the mould, and serve with a white
sauce.
Time. — To steam, about 45 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. Sufficient for
6 persons. Seasonable from September to April.
569. — OYSTER SOUFFLES, Small. (FV. — Petits
Souffles aux Huitres.)
Ingredients.— 6 large sauce oysters, 2 eggs, pint of milk (about)
1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, salt, pepper.
Method. — Remove the beards of the oysters, simmer them in the oyster
liquor for 10 minutes, and cut the oysters into small pieces. Melt
the butter in a stewpan, stir in the flour, add the milk, boil well, then
let it slightly cool. Separate the whites of the eggs from the yolks,
and whisk them to a stiff froth ; add the yolks one at a time to the
contents of the saucepan, and beat well. When thoroughly mixed
put in the oysters, oyster liquor, add seasoning to taste, and lastly
the whites of the eggs, which must be added as lightly as possible
to the mixture. Have ready some well-buttered china cases, half
fill them with the mixture, and bake for about 15 minutes in a moder-
ately hot oven, or steam them over a saucepan of boiling water for
20 minutes. The souffles may be baked in paper cases, but the latter
must previously be well buttered or oiled.
Time. — Altogether, about 40 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. Allow 8
souffles for 6 persons. Seasonable from September to April.
RECIPES FOR COOKING FISH 359
570. — OYSTER VOL-AU-VENT. (Fr.— Vol-au-Vent
aux Huitres.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of puff-paste, 24 oysters, 2 ozs. of butter, 1 oz.
of flour, the yolks of 3 eggs, \ of a pint of fish stock or milk (about),
\ a gill of cream, a teaspoonful of lemon juice, salt and pepper,
parsley.
Method. — Roll out the paste as directed in the preceding recipe.
Take a large, fluted oval cutter, dip it into hot water, and stamp out
2 pieces of paste. Remove the centre of one piece of paste with a hot
wet smaller cutter. Wet the edge of the piece of paste which is intact,
place the ring of paste on the top of it, and brush the surface with
yolk of egg. Bake in a hot oven ; when done, scoop out a little of the
inside, fill with the oyster mixture (see oyster patties), and decorate
with a little lobster coral and parsley.
Time. — To bake, about 20 minutes. Average Cost, 3s. to 3s. 6d.,
exclusive of the paste. Sufficient for one vol-au-vent. Seasonable from
September to April.
571. — PERCH, BOILED. (Fr.— Perche bouilli.)
Ingredients. — 4 perch, salt.
Method. — The peculiarity of the perch is the difficulty experienced
in removing its scales. Sometimes it is boiled and the scales removed
afterwards, but a better plan is to plunge the fish for 2 or 3 minutes
into boiling water, and then scale it. Before boiling, the fish must
be washed in warm water, cleaned, and the gills and fins removed.
Have ready boiling water to cover the fish, add salt to taste, and boil
them gently from 10 to 20 minutes, according to their size. Serve
with Hollandaise or melted butter sauce.
Time. — 10 to 20 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. to is. each. Sufficient
for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable from May to February.
Note. — Tench may be boiled the same way, and served with the same
sauces.
The Perch (Fr. perche). — This is one of the best and most common of fresh-water fish found in
nearly all the rivers and lakes of Britain and Ireland, and the whole of Europe within the temperate
zone. It is extremely voracious, and has, contrary to the usual nature of fresh-water fish of prey,
the peculiarity of being gregarious. The teeth of the perch are numerous and large ; its scales are
ctenoid , or comb-shaped ; the gill-cover and dorsal fin are furnished with spines ; Ihe tail and pectoral
fins are of a bright red colour. May to the middle of July is the best season for angling for perch.
Large numbers of this fish are bred and preserved in the ponds of Hampton Court and Bushey Park,
The perch possesses great vitality, and will live for a considerable time out of water if its gills be kept
moist. The bass is frequently called the sea-perch. The Climbing Perch of India, by a remark-
able arrangement of the cells of the pharyngeal bones, which retain moisture in the gills for a consider-
able period, is able to migrate overland in search of a fresh supply of water when the pools in which
it has been living are dried up. It progresses by means of its stiff spiny fins. The name “ climbing
perch ” has been given to the fish from the supposition that it climbs the rough stems of the palm-
trees.
572. — PERCH, FRIED. (Fr.— Perche frite.)
Ingredients. — 4 perch, egg, breadcrumbs, frying-fat, salt, pepper,
flour.
360
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Scale, clean, wash, and dry the fish thoroughly. Sprinkle
with salt and pepper, dredge well with flour, brush over with beaten
egg, and cover them with breadcrumbs. Have ready some hot fat,
fry the fish until nicely browned, drain well, and serve with anchovy,
shrimp, or melted butter sauce.
Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, from 6d. to is. each.
Allow 1 medium-sized fish to each person. Seasonable from May to
February.
573. — PERCH, STEWED. (Fr. — Perche au Vin
Blanc.)
Ingredients. — 4 perch, ^ a pint of good stock, \ of a pint of white wine,
2 ozs. of butter, 1 oz of flour, 1 dessertspooonful of finely-chopped
parsley, 1 dessertspoonful of finely-chopped onion, h a teaspoonful
of anchovy-essence, 1 bay-leaf, a bouquet -garni (parsley, thyme,
bay-leaf), 1 clove, salt and pepper, lemon-juice.
Method. — Scale, clean, and wash the fish, and remove the fins and
gills. Melt half the butter in a stewpan, fry the onion without brown-
ing, then add the stock, wine, anchovy-essence, bay-leaf, bouquet-
garni, and clove, and simmer for 10 minutes. Put in the fish, and let
them cook gently for about 10 minutes, then lift them out carefully
on to a hot dish, and keep them warm. Melt the remaining oz. of
butter in a stewpan, stir in the flour, and cook for 2 or 3 minutes, then
add the liquor (strained), in which the fish was cooked, and stir until
it boils. Add the parsley and lemon-juice, season to taste, and pour
over the fish.
Time. — About 30 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. to is. each. Allow
1 medium-sized fish to each person. Seasonable from May to Febru-
ary.
574. — PIKE, BAKED. (. Fr . — Brochet Farci.)
Ingredients. — 1 small pike (about 4 lb.), 4 ozs. of veal forcemeat
(No. 412), 1 egg, brown breadcrumbs, butter, or fat for basting.
Method. — Wash, clean, and scale the fish, and remove the fins and
gills. Fill the inside with forcemeat, sew up the opening, brush over
with beaten egg, and cover with breadcrumbs. Sometimes the fish
is trussed in a round shape, the tail being fastened in the mouth by
means of a skewer. Before putting the fish in the oven it should be
well basted with hot fat or butter, and as this fish is naturally dry it
must be frequently basted, and kept covered with a greased paper while
cooking. Bake gently from 40 to 45 minutes, and serve with a suitable
sauce.
Time. — Altogether, about 1 hour. Average Cost, about 2s. 6d.
Sufficient for 8 to 10 persons. Seasonable from September to
February.
RECIPES FOR COOKING FISH
361
575. — PIKE, BOILED. (Fr.— Brochet Bouilli.)
Ingredients. — 1 pike, salt, vinegar.
Method. — Pour boiling water over the fish until the scales look dull,
then plunge it into cold water, and remove the scales at once with the
back of a knife. Empty the fish, remove the gills and fins, and wash
well. Have ready a fish-kettle of warm water, add salt and vinegar
to taste, put in the fish, and boil gently until the fish separates easily
from the bone (one weighing 4 lb. would require about 25 or 30 minutes).
Serve with Hollandaise, anchovy, or melted butter sauce.
Time. — According to size, from -} to 1 hour. Average Cost, 3d. to 6d.
per lb. Sufficient for 8 persons. Seasonable from September to
February.
The Pike (Fr. brocket).— On account of its voracity, the pike is frequently called the “ fresh-water
shark.” The common pike occurs in the rivers and lakes of Europe, especially in the northern parts
and North America. In Russia and Lapland it attains to large dimensions. The body of the pike is
long, of an olive-brown colour, tinted with green above and silvery-white below ; the lower jaw pro-
jects, and is furnished with numerous strong teeth. The pike spawns in the spring ; its young are
called “ jack ” and “ luce.” The fishing season for pike is from May to February, the fish being
caught by nets, lines, and “ trimmer ” lines. Owing to its extreme voracity the pike commits great
depredation among other fish, and is especially harmful to trout. It is a very long-lived fish, and
frequently attains to a great age. In Scotland the pike is called the " gedd.” The flesh of the pike
is considered to be very wholesome, but it is somewhat dry.
576. — PIKE, CRIMPED AND FRIED. (Fr.— Brochet
recrepi.)
Ingredients. — Pike, egg, breadcrumbs, frying-fat, salt, piquant, an-
chovy or brown caper sauces.
Method.— Pike for this purpose should be fairly large and quite fresh.
Scale and clean the fish thoroughly, cut it into ^-inch slices, and cover
these with very cold water. Let them remain until the flesh becomes
sufficiently firm, then dry well, and rub lightly with flour seasoned
with salt and pepper. Brush over with beaten egg, coat carcfullv with
breadcrumbs, and afterwards fry in hot fat until lightly browned.
Drain well, garnish with crisply-fried parsley, and serve the sauce
separately.
Time. — £ hour. Average Cost, 3d. to 6d. per lb. Seasonable at
its best, from September to March.
577. — PIKE, FILLETS OF, ITALIAN STYLE. (Fr.—
Filets de Brochet a l’ltalienne.)
Ingredients. — 1 medium-sized pike, i-l- ozs. of butter, 1 of a pint of
brown sauce, No. 233, 2 tablespoonfuls of tomato puree, 2 tablespoon-
fuls of sherry, salt and pepper.
Method. — Clean, skin and cut the fish into neat fillets. Melt the
butter in a baking-dish, put in the fish, baste it well, and sprinkle
liberally with salt and pepper. Cover with a greased paper, cook gently
for \ s minutes, then add the sauce, tomato puree and sherry. Continue
to cook slowly for about 20 minutes, then transfer the fish very care-
362
Household management
fully to a hot dish, and strain the sauce over. If liked, the baking-
dish may be rubbed over with a cut clove of garlic before putting in the
fish.
Time. — About 40 minutes. Average Cost, 3d. to 6d, per lb.
Seasonable from September to March.
578. — PIKE, STEWED. (Fr.— Brochet en compSte.)
Ingredients. — 1 small pike, slices of bacon, 1 oz. of butter, \ a pint
of stock or water, 1 glass of sherry, salt and pepper.
Method. — Wash, clean and dry the pike, place it in a stewpan, in which
the butter has been previously melted, and cover with slices of bacon.
Put on a close-fitting lid, let the fish cook in the steam for 15 minutes,
then add the stock and wine, and season to taste. Simmer very gently
for about \ an hour, then serve on a hot dish with the gravy strained
round.
Time. — To stew, about \ an hour. Average Cost, 3d. to 6d. per lb.
Seasonable from September to March.
579. — PILCHARDS.
Pilchards are rarely found on the British shores, except at St. Ives,
Mount’s Bay, Mevagissy, and one or two other places on the coast
of Cornwall and Devon. The pilchard may be distinguished from the
herring by the fin, which is exactly in the middle of the back, while
in the herring it is nearer to the tail. The taste of the pilchard is
similar to that of the herring, but it is more oily. Pilchards quickly
lose their freshness, and therefore are not often sent uncured to any
great distance from the places where they are caught. In a cured
condition they are largely exported. Pilchards may be dressed accord-
ing to the directions given for cooking herrings.
580. — PLAICE, BAKED. (Fr. — Plie Farcie.)
Ingredients. — 1 medium-sized plaice, 2 tablespoonfuls of white bread-
crumbs, 1 tablespoonful of finely-chopped suet, 1 dessertspoonful of
finely-chopped parsley, of a teaspoonful of mixed herbs, a pinch
of nutmeg, salt and pepper, x egg, pale browned breadcrumbs, a little
fat or butter, milk.
Method. — Mix the white breadcrumbs, suet, parsley, herbs and nutmeg
together, season well with salt and pepper, add \ the egg, and enough
milk to thoroughly moisten the whole. Make an incision down the
centre of the fish as for filleting, raise the flesh each side as far as pos-
sible, and fill with the forcemeat. Instead of drawing the sides of the
fish close together, fill up the gap with forcemeat, and, with a knife,
flatten the surface to the level of the fish. Brush over with the remain-
ing half of the egg, cover lightly with the pale browned breadcrumbs,
place a few small pieces of butter on the top, and bake from 20 to 30
minutes in a moderate oven. Serve with a suitable sauce.
RECIPES FOR COOKING FISH 363
Time. — To prepare and cook, from 35 to 40 minutes. Average Cost,
is. to is. 6d. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable all the year.
Note The forcemeat may be varied by using shrimps or oysters ( see Fish
Cakes).
The Plaice (Fr. plie) is one of the commonest species of the Pleuronectidae , or flat-fishes, and is
found in large quantities on the coasts of England, and the Baltic and Mediterranean seas. Its
upper side is brown with red or orange spots. The plaice feeds near the bottom of the sea, and is
caught by trawl nets. Although less delicate in flavour than the sole, the plaice is a favourite fish
food.
581. — PLAICE, FILLETS OF, WITH WINE SAUCE.
(Fr. — Filets de Plie au Vin Blanc.)
Ingredients. — 1 medium-sized plaice, a glass of Chablis or Sauterne
wine, 6 mushrooms, 1 blade of mace, 2 ozs. of butter, 2 shallots, f- oz.
of flour, 1 gill fish stock, the )rolk of 1 egg, pepper and salt.
Method. — Take the black skin off the fish, remove the fillets,
trim these as neatly as possible, and cut each into 2 or 3 fillets of an
even size. Place these in a buttered saute-pan, season with pepper and
salt, moisten with the wine and about a tablespoonful of mushroom
liquor ; add also the blade of mace, and the shallots, peeled and cut
in two. Cover the fillets with a piece of buttered paper, and cook in a
moderately heated oven for about 15 minutes^or less, according to the
thickness of the fish. In the meantime, prepare a white roux or,
thickening, with the remaining butter and the flour, moisten with a gill
of fish stock, a little hot milk, and the liquor from the fillets, stir
the roux until it boils, and let it simmer for 10 minutes. Cut the mush-
rooms into slices. Season and strain the sauce, add the yolk of the egg,
heat up long enough to bind the ingredients together, then add the
mushrooms. Dish up the fish, pour the sauce over the fillets, garnish
and serve.
Time. — About i- an hour. Average Cost, is. 6d. to is. qd. Sufficient
for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable all the year round.
582. — PLAICE, FRIED. (Fr.— Plie Frite.)
Ingredients. — 1 medium-sized plaice, egg, breadcrumbs, frying-fat,
flour, salt and pepper, parsley.
Method. — Wash, dry, and fillet the fish, and cut it into pieces con-
venient for serving. Season a good tablespoonful of flour rather highly
with salt and pepper, and in it dip each piece of fish, then brush over
with egg, cover with breadcrumbs, and fry in hot fat until nicely
browned. Garnish with fried parsley, and serve with anchovy, shrimp,
or melted butter sauce.
Time. — To prepare and cook, about \ an hour. Average Cost, is. 3d.
to is. 6d. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable all the year
round.
364 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
583. — PLAICE, FRIED. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 1 medium-sized plaice, flour, salt and pepper, frying-
fat or oil.
Method. — Prepare the fish as in the preceding recipe, but instead
of coating the fish with egg and breadcrumbs, slip each piece into a
thick smooth batter made of flour and water.
Time. — To fry, about 10 minutes. Average Cost, is. to is. 4d.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable all the year round.
584. — PLAICE, OR SOLES, ROLLED.
(Fr. — Paupiettes de Plie.)
Ingredients. — 1 plaice or 2 soles, lemon-juice, pepper and salt, \ a
shallot, 1 bay -leaf, parsley, 2 cloves, 1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of flour,
\ a pint of fish stock, (1 gill of milk, 1 gill of water, 1 tablespoonful of
cream ).
Method. — Fillet the plaice, season the fillets with salt, pepper, and
lemon-juice. Roll them, and put them on a greased baking-sheet
with a greased paper over them. Put the bones into a stewpan with
the milk and water, bay-leaf, parsley stalks, cloves, and shallot, and
simmer for 20 minutes. JNlelt the butter, add the flour, and cook for a
few minutes, then add the fish stock, and stir the ingredients until
they boil. Bake the rolled fillets for about 10 minutes or until cooked
sufficiently, and season to taste. Dish them neatly on a hot dish, strain
the sauce over, sprinkle a little chopped parsley on the top, and serve
very hot.
Time. — To bake, from 5 to 10 minutes. Average Cost, is. 3d. to
is. 6d., when plaice is used. Sufficient for 5 to 6 persons. Seasonable
all the year round.
585. — TO BOIL PRAWNS, OR SHRIMPS.
(Fr. — Crevettes.)
Method. — Prawns should be very red, and have no spawn when cooked;
much depends on their freshness, and the way in which they are cooked.
Throw them into boiling water, salted, and keep them boiling for about
7 or 8 minutes. Shrimps should be done in the same way, but less
time must be allowed. It may easily be known when they are done by
their changing colour. Care should be taken that they are not over-
boiled, as they then become tasteless and indigestible.
Time. — Prawns, about 8 minutes ; shrimps, about 5 minutes. Average
Cost, prawns, 9d. to is. 6d. per dozen ; shrimps, 4d. to 6d. a pint.
Seasonable all the year.
The Prawn (Fr. creveite) is a crustacean allied to the lobsters and crabs, and resembles the shrimp
in its appearance, but it is much larger and more delicate in flavour. Its colour is light orange-grev
and the body is almost transparent ; it changes to red when boiled, and becomes opaque. The prawn
abounds in various parts of the English coast, especially in the south and south-west.
RECIPES FOR COOKING FISH 365
586. — PRAWNS, CURRY OF. (Fr. — Crevettes a
l’lndienne.)
Ingredients. — 2 dozen prawns, i-J- ozs. of butter, 1 dessertspoonful of
curry powder, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, 1 sour apple coarsely-chopped,
1 small onion sliced, 1 tablespoonful of cocoanut grated, 1 tcaspoonful
of lemon-juice, \ a pint of stock, salt.
Method. — Shell the prawns and put them aside. Melt the butter
in a stewpan, fry the onion without browning, then add the curry-
powder and flour, and fry slowly for at least 20 minutes. Add the
stock, apple, cocoanut, and a little salt, simmer gently for \ an hour,
then strain and return to the stewpan. Season to taste, add the lemon-
juice, put in the prawns, and when thoroughly hot serve with well-
boilecl rice.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. to 6s., according to the
size of the prawns. Sufficient lor 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any
time.
587. — PRAWNS, TO SERVE.
In the centre of a dish place a dariol mould, or a small basin when a
larger base is required, and cover it with a small serviette. Arrange
the prawns around in the form of a pyramid, garnish with tufts of
parsley, and serve.
588. — PRAWNS, OR SHRIMPS, POTTED.
(Fr. — Terrine de Crevettes.)
Ingredients. — 1 quart of fresh prawns or shrimps, of a lb. of fresh
butter, cayenne, pounded mace or nutmeg, a little salt.
Method. — The fish should be perfectly fresh and as large as possible.
Boil, then shell them and divide them slightly, and pound to a paste
in a mortar with the butter and seasoning. Rub through a fine sieve,
press into small pots, cover with clarified butter, and when cold tie
down closely.
Time. — 8 minutes, to boil the prawns. Average Cost, is. 3d. to 2s.
Seasonable at any time.
589. — SALMON BAKED, ITALIAN STYLE.
(Fr. — Saumon etufe a l’ltalienne.)
Ingredients. — About 2 lb. of salmon (middle), 2 small shallots (peeled
and chopped), 1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley, salt and pepper,
grated nutmeg, 1 small glass of claret, Genoise or tomato sauce.
Method. — Cut the fish into 2 or 3 even-sized slices, place these on a
well-buttered baking-tin or saute-pan. Season with salt, pepper,
and a little grated nutmeg, sprinkle over the chopped shallots and
366
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
parsley, and place the remainder of the butter on top of the fish.
Moisten with the wine, and bake for about 15 minutes, basting the
fish frequently. When done, dish up, and pour some Genoise or
tomato sauce over the slices of salmon. The essence left in the pan
in which the fish was baked must be utilized for flavouring the sauce.
Time. — To cook, about 15 minutes. Average Cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient
for 8 persons. Seasonable from April to August.
590. — SALMON, BOILED. (JFr.— Saurnon bouilli.)
Ingredients. — Salmon. For the court-bouillon (or highly-seasoned fish
stock ), allow to each quart of water 1 dessertspoonful of salt, 1 small
turnip, 1 small onion, \ a leek, 1 strip of celery, 6 pepper-corns, a bou-
quet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf).
Method. — Put into the fish-kettle just enough water to cover the
fish, and when boiling add the prepared vegetables, and cook gently
for 30 minutes. In the meantime, wash, clean, and scale the fish,
and tie it loosely in a piece of muslin. Remove any scum there may be
on the court-bouillon, then put in the fish and boil gently until
sufficiently cooked (the time required depends more on the thickness
of the fish than the weight ; allow 10 minutes for each lb. when cooking
a thick piece, and 7 minutes for the tail end), then drain well, dish
on a folded napkin, garnish with parsley, and serve with sliced cucumber,
and Hollandaise, or other suitable sauce.
Time. — From 7 to 10 minutes per lb. Average Cost, from is. 3d. to
2s. 6d. Sufficient, allow from 4 to 6 ozs. per head. Seasonable from
April to August.
591. — SALMON, BOILED. ( Fr . — Saurnon bouilli.)
(Another Method.)
Ingredients. — Salmon, salt, boiling water.
Method. — Scale and clean the fish, and put it into the fish-kettle
with sufficient boiling water to just cover it, adding salt to taste. The
boiling water is necessary to preserve the colour of the fish. Simmer
gently until the fish can be easily separated from the bone, thus en-
suring its being thoroughly cooked, otherwise it will be unwholesome,
but on the other hand, if over-cooked it will be dry and insipid.
Drain well, dish on a folded napkin, garnish with cut-lemon and
parsley, and serve with lobster, shrimp, or other suitable sauce, and
a dish of thinly-sliced cucumber.
Time. — According to size. Average Cost, is. 3d. to 2s. 6d. per lb. Suffi-
cient— Allow 4 oz. per head, when served in the fish course of a dinner.
Seasonable from February to September, but most plentiful in July and
August.
To Choose Salmon. — To be good, the belly should be firm and thick, and this may readily be
ascertained by feeling it with the thumb and finger The circumstance of this fish having red
gitls, though given as a standing rule in most cookery books, as a sign of its goodness, is not at all
to be relied on, for this appearance can b? produced artificially.
3 ^7
RECIPES FOR COOKING FISH
592. — SALMON BAKED WITH CAPER SAUCE.
(. Fr . — Saumon, Sauce aux Capres.)
Ingredients.— 2 slices of salmon, of a lb. of butter, -} a teaspoonful of
chopped parsley, 1 shallot, salt and pepper, and grated nutmeg 'to
taste. (Caper sauce No. 132.)
Method. — Lay the salmon in a baking-dish, place the pieces of butter
over it, and add the other ingredients, rubbing a little of the seasoning
into the fish. Baste frequently and when done place the salmon on
a dish, pour caper sauce over it, and serve. Salmon dressed in this
way with tomato sauce is very delicious.
Time. — About £ of an hour. Average Cost, 3s. 6d. Seasonable from
April to August. Sufficient for 6 persons.
593. — SALMON, COLLARED. (Fr. — Saumon au Four.)
Ingredients. — 1 small salmon, vinegar, salt and pepper, mace, cayenne,
peppercorns, allspice, bay-leaves, cloves.
Method. — Cut off the head and tail, wash and scale the fish, and cut
it in two lengthwise. Only 1 half is required for a roll, therefore
either 2 rolls must be made, or the other half dressed in another way.
Mix together \ a teaspoonful of salt, j of a teaspoonful of pepper,
a good pinch each of mace and cayenne. Remove the bones and skin
from the fish, spread it flat on the table, and rub the inside well with
the seasoning. Roll up the fish, and bind it firmly with string.
Have ready a stewpan, just large enough to hold the fish, containing
boiling water and vinegar, in the proportion of £of a pint of vinegar to
1 pint of water, and add 12 peppercorns, -f- a teaspoonful of allspice, 2
cloves, 2 bay-leaves, and salt to taste. Put in the fish, and simmer gently
for about 1 hour. When done, place in a deep earthenware vessel,
and when the liquor is cold pour it over the salmon, and let it remain
until required for use.
Time. — To prepare and cook, about i£- hours. Average Cost, is. 3d.
to 2s. 6d. per lb. Sufficient for 1 dish. Seasonable from April to
August.
594. — SALMON, CRIMPED. (Fr. — Saumon recrepi.)
Salmon should be crimped as soon as possible after being caught.
Deep gashes about 2 inches apart should be made on both sides of the
fish, which should at once be plunged into cold water and allowed to
remain for 2 hours, changing the water 3 times at least.
595. — SALMON, CURED OR SALTED.
Ingredients. — Salmon, saltpetre, salt.
Method. — Split the fish in halves, remove the bone, dry well with a
soft cloth, and sprinkle liberally with salt. Let it remain thus for 24
hours, then drain and dry thoroughly, and divide the fish into pieces
368
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
to pack conveniently in a large jar. Add i oz. of saltpetre to 12 ozs.
of salt, rub the mixture well into the fish, and pack closely in a jar
with salt between the layers. If the salt, when dissolved, does not
cover the fish, make a little strong brine, and add it, when quite cold,
to the contents of the jar.
596. — SALMON, CURRY OF. (Fr.— Saumon a
lTndienne.)
Ingredients. — 1} lb. of cooked salmon, 1 oz. of butter, 1 dessertspoonful
of curry-powder, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, 1 sour apple (or a corres-
ponding amount of rhubarb or green gooseberries) coarsely-chopped,
1 small onion sliced, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, \ a teaspoonful
of anchovy-essence, \ a pint of fish stock or water, salt.
Method. — Melt the butter, fry the onion without browning, then
add the currv-powder and flour, and fry slowly for about 20 minutes.
Add the fish stock or water, apple, onion, and salt to taste, simmer
gently for \ an hour, then strain, replace in the stewpan, and add the
anchovy-essence, lemon-juice, and seasoning, if necessary. Have
the fish ready freed from skin and bones, and separated into large
Hakes, put it into the prepared curry sauce, make thoroughly hot, and
serve with well-boiled rice.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. to 3s. Sufficient for 5
Of 6 persons. Seasonable from April to August.
597. — SALMON CUTLETS. ( Fr . — Cotelettes de Sau-
mon en Papillotes.)
Ingredients. — Slices of salmon, butter, pepper and salt, anchovy or
caper sauce.
Method. — Cut the slices 1 inch thick, and season them with pepper
and salt. Butter some sheets of white paper, enclose each slice of fish
separately, and secure the ends of the paper case by twisting tightly,
broil gently over a clear fire, and serve with anchovy or caper
sauce.
Time. — From 10 to 15 minutes. Average Cost, is. 3d. to 2s. 6d. per lb.
Seasonable from April to August.
598. — SALMON DARIOLES. ( Fr . — Darioles de Saumon
a la Moscovienne.)
Ingredients. — About 1 lb. of cooked salmon, 6 large oysters, 1 large
truffle, 1 hard-boiled egg, \ an oz. of anchovy-paste, a teaspoonful of
tarragon vinegar, J of a gill of cream, about \ a pint of aspic jelly,
4 fflletted anchovies, a few slices of cucumber, red chilies, a pinch of
cayenne, salt and pepper, grated nutmeg, ice.
Method. — Flake the salmon, line 6 to 8 small dariole, bouche, or
FISH,
i. Fillets of Sole, Horley Style. 2. Fillets of Sole with Parsley Sauce.
3. Lobster Cream.
62
x x
RECIPES FOR COOKING FISH
36()
timtale moulds with a thin layer of aspic jelly, decorate with a few thin
slices of truffles, some nice flakes of salmon, and a few strips of red
chilies. Set the garnish well with a little aspic, and put it aside to
cool. Pound the remainder of the fish in a mortar together with
6 cooked oysters, the hard-boiled egg, and the anchovy-paste ; season
with a pinch of cayenne pepper, salt, and a little grated nutmeg. Rub
through a fine sieve, add the tarragon vinegar, the cream, and about i
gill ol aspic jelly, mix the ingredients well together, and then fill the
moulds. Put the anchovy fillets and a few slices of truffles between
the farce, or stuffing, in filling. If the mixture does not quite fill the
moulds, supply the deficiency with aspic jelly, and stand the moulds
on the ice until required. For serving, immerse the moulds in tepid
water, turn out the contents quickly, and place them on a round dish,
garnish round the sides with chopped aspic and a few fancifully-cut
slices of cucumber.
Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, 3s. to 3s. 6d. Sufficient for 6
persons. Seasonable at any time.
599. — SALMON, FILLETS OF, MORNY STYLE.
(Fr. — Filets de Saumon a la Mornay.)
Ingredients. — 2 slices of salmon, from £ to 1 inch in thickness, 2\ ozs.
of butter, 1 oz. of flour, £ of a pint of fish stock, £ of a pint of cream,
1 onion coarsely-chopped, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf),
1 tablespoonful of grated Parmesan cheese, 1 dessertspoonful of lemon-
juice, salt and pepper.
Method. — Melt half the butter in a shallow stewpan or saute-pan,
fry the onion and the salmon quickly on both sides, then add the
stock (boiling), the bouquet-garni, salt and pepper, cover closely, and
simmer gently for 20 minutes. Meanwhile, melt the remainder of the
butter in a stewpan, add the flour, and cook for 5 minutes. When the
fish is done, take it out on to a hot dish and keep it warm. Strain the
stock on to the flour and butter, and stir until it boils. Simmer for
5 minutes, add the cream, cheese, lemon-juice, season to taste, pour
the mixture over the fish, and serve.
Time. — About 40 minutes. Average Cost, from is. 3d. to is. qd.
per lb. Sufficient lor 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable from April to August.
600. — SALMON, FRIED. ( Fr . — Saumon Frit.) (Jewish
Recipe.)
Ingredients.— i£ lb. of salmon, a small flask of olive-oil.
Method. — Pour the oil into a small but deep pan, set over a clear
fire, and when it ceases to bubble, put in the salmon, previously
cleaned and dried with a cloth, and fry it gently until it is completely
cooked through. It should be only a golden brown, and when the salmon
370
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
has acquired this colour, the pan should be placed where the fisli will
cook slowly, so as to prevent it becoming darker. When thoroughly
done, drain and leave it to get cold, and serve it upon a fish paper,
garnished with parsley.
Time. — About \ hour to cook the fish. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. Suffi-
cient for 4 persons. Seasonable from April to August.
The Salmon (Fr. saumon) is the type of the family Salmonidce, which forms the first sab-order,
the M alacopteri of the third order of fishes, the Teleostei, or fish possessing a bony skeleton, and having
the skull composed of distinct bones. The ventral fins are abdominal, the second dorsal fin is soft
and without rays, and the swim-bladder is developed. The head of the salmon is smooth ; its teeth
are placed in the upper and lower jaws, palate, and roof of the mouth ; the edges of the tongue are
notched. The colour of the salmon is steel-blue on the head and back, and silver-white on its lower
parts. The salmon lives in both salt and fresh-water, and is found distributed over the north of
Europe and Asia, and in the great rivers of North America. It spawns in the late autumn or the
beginning of winter, and ascends the rivers, often to a great distance, for that purpose. The spawn
is deposited in a shallow groove in the sand or gravel, and covered over by the action of the tail and
fins of the fish. Salmon after spawning are known as kelts. The young are hatched about March,
and pass through three stages before attaining full maturity. When first hatched the young are
called parr, and remain under that designation some fifteen months to two years, living in the shallows
of their native stream. The second stage is that of the smolt, or salmon-fry, when the fins become
darker and the body more silvery, and the young fish in shoals migrate to the sea. On returning from
the sea, where it has rapidly increased in growth, to the rivers, it is known as the grilse, or salmon -
peel, and weighs on the average from 4 lb. to 6 lb. The grilse on its return to the rivers spawns for
the first time. Again going back to the sea the grilse gradually increases in size, and becomes the
salmon. The salmon is the finest of food fishes, characterized by its orange-coloured flesh, and is
called by Isaac Walton the “ King of fresh-water fish.” It is esteemed of so much importance, that
special Acts of Parliament have been passed to regulate the salmon fishery and preserve the fish.
A close-time for salmon fishing in England and Wales, including also the Esk in Dumfries, is fixed for
nets from September 1 to February 1, and for rods from November 2 to February 1. In Scotland it
is for nets from August 2 7 to February 10, for rods, from November 1 to February 10, with certain
local exceptions. In Ireland there are many variations of the close-time, but the netting close-time
must not be less than 168 days. It is illegal to sell fresh salmon between September 3 and February 1,
except salmon imported from foreign countries. There are also special penalties for capturing or
selling “ unclean ” salmon, i.e., salmon recently spawned or full of spawn. The salmon is caught
by the rod or by specially constructed nets. The principal salmon fisheries in England and Scotland
are those of the Tweed, North Esk, Dee, Tay, Severn, Avon and Spey. Salmon is very abundant
in the rivers of North America, and large quantities of tinned salmon are exported thence to Great
Britain.
601.— SALMON WITH GENEVESE SAUCE.
( Fr . — Saumon Sauce Genevoise.)
Ingredients. — 2 slices of salmon, \ a pint of good stock, |- of a pint of
Madeira or other white wine, 2 ozs. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, 1 dessert-
spoonful each of chopped-onion and parsley, 1 carrot sliced, a bouquet-
garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), a blade of mace, the juice of a lemon,
a teaspoonful of anchovy-essence, cayenne, salt and pepper.
Method. — Melt 1 oz. of butter in a stewpan and fry the onion until
slightly browned, add the stock, wine, parsley, carrot, bouquet-garni,
mace, anchovy-essence and seasoning, and boil gently for 30 minutes,
then strain, and return to the stewpan. Bring the sauce to boiling
point, put in the slices of fish, and let them simmer gently about
20 minutes, or until the fish separates easily from the bone. Mean-
while melt the remaining oz. of butter in another stewpan, add to it
the flour, stir and cook over the fire for 4 or 5 minutes. When the
fish is done, remove it carefully to a hot dish, pour the liquor on to the
butter and flour, stir until smooth, then simmer for 5 or 6 minutes.
Add the lemon-juice to the sauce, season to taste, strain over the fisli,
and serve.
RECIPES FOR COOKING FISH 371
Time. — From i to ij hours, Average Cost, 3s. to 3s. 6d. Sufficient
for 6 persons. Seasonable from April to August.
602. — SALMON JELLY, (Fr. — Gelee de Saumon.)
Ingredients. — 1 tin of salmon, 1 pint of clear stock, 1 oz, of French
gelatine, 2 whites of eggs.
Method. — Dissolve the gelatine in the stock and season to taste.
Cook the whites of eggs in a dariol mould or small cup until firm, and
when cold cut into thin slices and stamp out into fancy shapes. Drain
the oil from the salmon, and remove all skin and bones, Cover the
bottom of a mould with jelly, let it set, and then decorate with white
of egg. Set the garnish with a little jelly, add a layer of salmon, cover
with jelly, and put aside until set. Repeat until the mould is full.
Keep on ice or in a cool place until wanted, then turn out, and serve.
Time. — -About 2 hours. Average Cost, is. to is. 3d., in addition to the
stock.
603. — SALMON, MAYONNAISE OF, (Fr.— Saumon
en Mayonnaise.)
Ingredients. — Cold boiled salmon, lettuce, cucumber, beetroot, gher-
kins, capers, boned anchovies, hard-boiled eggs, Mayonnaise sauce
(No. 201).
Method. — A Mayonnaise of salmon may consist of a large centre-cut,
a thick slice, or the remains of cold salmon cut into pieces convenient
for serving. In all cases the skin and bone must be removed, and the
fish completely masked with thick Mayonnaise sauce, the stiffening
properties of which are greatly increased by the addition of a little
liquid, but nearly cold, aspic jelly. When procurable, a little endive
should be mixed with the lettuce, for although the somewhat bitter
flavour of this salad plant is disliked by many people, its delicate,
feathery leaves greatly improve the appearance of any dish of which it
forms a part. Many other garnishings, in addition to those enumerated
above, may be used ; the leaves of the tarragon and chervil plants, and
fancifully-cut thin slices of truffle, being particularly effective when
used to decorate the surface of Mayonnaise sauce ( see Lobster Mayon-
naise, No. 201 ).
Average Cost. — Salmon, is. 3d. to 2s. 6d. per lb.
604. — SALMON MOULDED IN JELLY.
Ingredients. — 1^ lb. of cooked salmon, 1 pint of clear stock, 1 oz. of
French gelatine, 1 white of egg, 1 tablespoonful of sherry or water,
•i tablespoonful of vinegar.
Method. — Soak the gelatine in the cold stock for L an hour, then stir
the mixture over the fire until dissolved, and draw it aside to cool
slightly. Whisk the white of egg with the sherry or water, and the
vinegar, and add it to the stock when considerably below boiling
372
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
point. Whisk briskly until boiling, let the preparation stand undis-
turbed for io minutes, then strain through a jelly bag, and when quite
cold and on the point of setting, pour a little into a mould. Divide the
salmon into large flakes, and as soon as the jelly in the mould hardens,
cover lightly with pieces of salmon. Add a layer of jelly, let it set,
and cover with salmon, repeating the process until the mould is full.
Keep on ice until ready to serve.
Time. — About 4 hours. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. to 3s., exclusive of the
stock.
605. — SALMON, PAUPIETTES OF, REGENCE STYLE.
( Fr . — Paupiettes de Saumon a la Regence.)
Ingredients. — About 2\ lb. of salmon (jowl), 1 large whiting, 3 ozs.
of panada, 2 ozs. of butter, the yolks of 2 eggs, 1 tablespoonful of
Bechamel sauce, seasoning, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley,
preserved mushroom heads for garnish, Regence sauce (No. 270).
Method. — Remove the fillets of salmon from the bone, cut off the skin,
divide each fillet in half lengthwise, and cut them into rather thin long
slices of even size, trimming them neatl)'p. Skin and bone the whiting,
pound it in a mortar until smooth, add the panada, mix well, then
add the egg yolks, about 1 oz. of butter, the Bechamel sauce,
and the chopped parsley. Season to taste with salt, pepper, cayenne
and nutmeg, and rub through a fine sieve. Spread each slice of salmon
with a layer of this farce or forcemeat, roll up into paupiette shapes,
and tie each with string or skewer them together in twos or threes.
Place them in a saute-pan containing 1 oz. of melted butter, divide
the remainder of the butter into little bits, placing these on the top
of the paupiettes, cover with a buttered paper, and cook in a moderate
oven from 20 to 25 minutes, basting frequently. When done, take up,
remove the skewers or string, and dress the paupiettes on a hot dish.
Have the Regence sauce nicely heated, add the mushroom heads,
allowing 1 large head for each paupiette ; place the mushrooms on the
paupiettes, sauce over carefully, and serve hot.
Time. — To cook, from 20 to 25 minutes. Average Cost, 5s. to 6s.
Sufficient for 10 persons. Seasonable from April to August.
606. — SALMON, PICKLED. (Fr.— Saumon Marine.)
Ingredients. — Salmon, \ an oz. of whole pepper, \ an oz. of whole all-
spice, 1 teaspoonful of salt, 2 bay-leaves, equal quantities of vinegar
and the liquor in which the fish was boiled.
Method. — After the fish comes from table, and the bones have been*
removed lay it in a clean deep dish. Boil the liquor and vinegar
with the other ingredients for 10 minutes, let them stand to get cold,
then pour them over the salmon, and in 12 hours it will be ready for
use
RECIPES FOR COOKING FISH
373
Time. — io minutes. Average Cost, is. 3d. to 2s. 6d. per lb. Season-
able from April to August.
607. — SALMON, POTTED. ( Fr . — Terrine de Saumon.)
Ingredients. — Cold salmon, clarified butter, anchovy-esscnce, pow-
dered mace, salt and pepper, cayenne.
Method.— Free the fish from skin and bone, then pound it thoroughly
in a mortar. Add by degrees the seasoning, and the anchovy-essence
and clarified butter a few drops at a time, until the right consistency
and flavour is obtained, then rub the ingredients through a fine sieve,
press into small pots, and cover with a good layer of clarified butter.
Fresh salmon may also be potted ( see Potted Lobster, No. 540).
Average Cost. — Salmon, from is. 6d. to 2s. 6d. per lb
608. — SALMON, SMOKED OR KIPPERED.
Ingredients. — Salmon, equal quantities of common salt and Jamaica
pepper mixed together, also a mixture composed of 1 lb. of salt, 3 ozs.
of coarse sugar, 1 oz. of saltpetre.
Method. — Scale the fish, split it down the back, remove the head
and all the backbone except 3 inches at the tail. Clean and dry the
inside thoroughly, then rub well with salt and Jamaica pepper, and let
it remain thus for 24 hours. Drain well, rub the fish 2 or 3 times with
the mixture of salt, sugar and saltpetre, let it stand for 2 days, and
then rub it again with the mixture. Now stretch the fish on sticks,
hang it by the tail, exposed to the rays of the sun or the heat of the fire,
for 3 or 4 days, and afterwards suspend it in the smoke of a wood
or turf fire until dry — usually from 15 to 20 days. Sometimes salt and
Jamaica pepper alone are used, but the process is exactly the same.
The peculiar flavour possessed by some varieties is due to juniper
bushes being used as fuel instead of wood or turf.
609. — SALMON, SMOKED TO COOK. (Fr.-Saumon
Fume)
Ingredients. — Smoked salmon, salad-oil.
Method. — Cut the fish into small thin slices, brush them over with
salad-oil, and enclose them in oiled papers. Grill the slices over a
slow, clear fire for 7 or 8 minutes, turning them 2 or 3 times during
the process. Serve with oiled butter, or any fish sauce that may be liked.
Time.— 7 or 8 minutes. Average Cost, 3s. 6d. per lb. for smoked
salmon.
610. — SALMON SMOKED, DEVILLED. (Fr.— Sau-
mon fume a la Diable.)
Ingredients.— Smoked salmon, wheat triscuits, salad-oil, devilled
butter, No. 159, salt and pepper, cayenne.
374
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Cut the triscuits across in halves, soak them for 3 or 4
minutes in salad-oil, then drain well, and sprinkle liberally with salt,
pepper and cayenne. Toast the triscuits on both sides, cover them
with thin slices of smoked salmon, and add a layer of devilled butter.
Place them in a hot oven for a few minutes, then serve.
Time. — About 15 minutes. Average Cost, for smoked salmon, 3s. 6d.
per lb.
61 1. — SALMON STEAKS. (Fr. — Tranche de Saumon.)
These may be enclosed in an oiled or buttered paper, and either
grilled or fried in hot butter in a saute-pan. Or they may be coated
with egg and breadberumbs and fried. Serve with sliced cucumber
and a suitable sauce.
612. — SALMON, TIMBALES OF. {Fr.— Petites tim-
bales de Saumon.)
Ingredients. — £- of a lb. of cooked salmon, \ a [pint of Mayon-
naise sauce, stiffened with f of a gill of well-reduced aspic, x gill of
plain aspic jelly for lining, tarragon and chervil leaves, 1 large truffle,
ice.
Method. — Line 6 to 8 small oblong or square moulds (timbale or
zephire [oval] shape) with dissolved aspic jelly, decorate with the herb
leaves and truffle, and, when set, coat with a layer of prepared Mayon-
naise. Flake the fish, season with Mayonnaise, and add the remainder
of the truffles, chopped coarsely. Fill up the moulds 3 parts full with
dressed salmon, finish filling with some Mayonnaise and aspic. Put
the moulds to set upon the ice, turn out, dish up, garnish with small
green salad and chopped aspic, then serve.
Time. — hour. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. to 3s. Sufficient for 6 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
613. — SALT FISH WITH CREAM. {Fr.— Morue a la
Creme.)
Ingredients. — 3 or 4 lb. of salt cod-fish of average size, 1 pint of water,
1 pint of milk, 1^ ozs. of flour, 1^- ozs. of butter, pepper.
Method. — Divide the fish into very small fillets, put them into a
stewpan with the water and milk, and simmer for \ an hour. Knead
the flour and butter to a smooth paste, put it into the saucepan in very
small pieces, and simmer for about 10 minutes, or until the liaison (or
thickening) of butter and flour becomes smoothly mixed with the liquid.
Add pepper to taste, and serve.
Time. — 40 minutes. Average Cost, sauce, 3 Id.; cod from 4d. to is
per lb. Sufficient for 8 or 10 persons. Seasonable during Lent.
RECIPES FOR COOKING FISH 373
614. — SALT FISH And PARSNIPS, (Fr. — Morue aux
Panais.)
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of salt cod, id ydung parsnips, egg saucd. No.
297.
Method. — Wash the fish, and soak it in cold water for 12 hours, or
longer if very salt, changing the water every 3 or 4 hours. Cover the
fish with cold water, and bring slowly to simmering point, then draw
to the side of the stove and cook very gently for 20 minutes, or until
the fish leaves the bones. Meanwhile prepare the sauce according to
the directions given. Boil the parsnips, if small cut them lengthwise
into 2, or, if large into 4 pieces. Drain the fish well, then place it on
a hot dish, pour the sauce over, and garnish with the parsnips.
Time. — About 40 minutes. Average Cost, cod, 4d. to is. per lb.
Sufficient, for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable during Lent.
615. — SCALLOPS OF FISH. (Fr.— Escalopes de
Poisson au Gratin.)
Ingredients. — The remains of cold fish of any kind, to each \ lb. of
which allow i-|- ozs. of butter, 2 ozs. "of flour, \ a pint of milk, 1 tea-
spoonful of anchovy-essence, 1 teaspoonful of walnut ketchup, \ a
teaspoonful of made mustard, salt and pepper, cayenne, bread
crumbs.
Method. — Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the flour, and cook for
3 or 4 minutes, then pour in the milk, stir until it boils, and let it simmer
slowly for 10 minutes. Meanwhile separate the fish into large flakes,
and when the sauce is ready put them into the stewpan with the an-
chovy-essence, ketchup, mustard, and a liberal seasoning of salt and
pepper, and a small pinch of cayenne. Stir over the fire until the mix-
ture is thoroughly hot, then fill the scallop-shells (previously well-
buttered), cover lightly with breadcrumbs, place on the top of each
small pieces of butter, and bake in a hot oven until nicely browned,
or brown the surface with a hot salamander.
Time. — \ an hour. Average Cost, is. 6d.
616. — SCALLOPS, FRIED. (Fy. — Petoncles Frits.)
Ingredients. — 18 scallops, 1 egg, \ oz. butter, 2 ozs. of flour, 1 gill of
milk, salt, pepper and cayenne, frying-fat, parsley.
Method. — Drain the scallops on a cloth. Sift the flour into a basin,
add a pinch of salt. Melt the butter, beat up the egg, stir both into
the flour, add the milk, and work until quite smooth. If too thick,
a little more melted butter or milk may be added. Let the batter
stand for an hour, then stir in a dessertspoonful of chopped parsley.
Season the scallops with a little salt, a good pinch of white pepper,
376
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
and a small pinch of cayenne. Dip them into the batter, drop them
one by one into hot fat, fry to a golden-brown, drain on a cloth, pile
up on a hot dish, garnish with fried parsley, and serve with lobster
or tomato sauce (No 281)
Time. — To fry, from 5 to 6 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. Sufficient
for 8 or 9 persons. Seasonable from January to June.
The Scallop (Fr. petoncle ) i? allied to the oyster, and is highly esteemed for the table. The shells
of the scallop were worn in their hats by pilgrims in the Middle Ages, to show that they had made a
pilgrimage to the Holy Land.
C17. — SCALLOPS AND MUSHROOMS. (Fr.— Pet-
oncles aux Champignons.)
Ingredients. — 6 scallops, 6 large flap mushrooms, 1 oz. of butter,
I or 2 tablespoonfuls of white sauce, milk, salt and pepper.
Method. — Remove the scallops from their shells, and wash well in cold
water. Put them into a stewpan with just sufficient milk to cover,
add a little salt and pepper and simmer gently for about 50 minutes.
Drain well, chop the yellow and white parts separately, moisten with
a little white sauce, and season to taste. While the scallops are cook-
ing remove the stalks of the mushrooms, peel them and fry them in hot
butter. Place an equal portion of the white part of the scallops on
each mushroom, pile the red part on the top, make thoroughly hot
in the oven, and serve.
Time. — About 1 J- hours. Average Cost, is. to is. 6d. Sufficient for
4 or 5 persons. Seasonable from January to June.
618. — SCALLOPS, SCALLOPED. (Fr— Petoncles en
coquilles.)
Ingredients. — 12 scallops, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley,
breadcrumbs, butter, salt and pepper.
Method. — Wash and drain the scallops, chop them finely, and mix with
them an equal quantity of breadcrumbs. Season liberally with salt
and pepper, and add the parsley. Wash and dry the deeper shells,
butter them thickly, and sprinkle lightly with breadcrumbs. Fill the
shells with the preparation, cover the surface lightly with bread-
crumbs, and add two or three bits of butter. Bake in a moderate
oven until well-browned, and serve in the shells.
Time. — 30 minutes. Average Cost, is. 2d. to 2s. Sufficient for 5 or
6 shells. Seasonable from January to June.
619. — SCALLOPS IN SHELLS. (Fr. — Petoncles en
coquilles.)
Ingredients. — 1 } dozen of scallops, a cupful of breadcrumbs, 1 oz.
RECIPES FOR COOKING FISH 377
of butter, i gill white sauce, cayenne, and salt, a little chopped parsley,
and a squeeze of lemon.
Method. — Trim the scallops by cutting off the beards and black parts,
cleanse 6 shells, butter them, and strew in a few bread crumbs. Put 3
scallops in each, season them with the cayenne and chopped parsley,
and a drop or two of lemon-juice. Put a little pepper and salt with
the breadcrumbs, cover the scallops with white sauce, sprinkle
with breadcrumbs, place little pieces of butter on the top, and bake
lor about 20 minutes.
Time. — 20 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. to 2s. Sufficient for 6
persons. Seasonable from January to June.
620. — SCALLOPS, STEWED. (Fr. — Ragout de
petoncles.)
Ingredients.— 12 scallops, 1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, lemon-juice or
vinegar, salt and pepper.
Method. — Open the shells like an oyster, remove the scallops, and trim
away the beard and black parts. Wash well in 2 or 3 waters, then
cover them with warm water, and boil gently from 50 to 60 minutes.
Meanwhile knead the flour and butter well together, mix in a little
salt and pepper, separate into small pieces, and add them to the con-
tents of the stewpan 20 minutes before serving. When ready, place
the scallops on a hot dish, season the sauce to taste, add the lemon-
juice or vinegar, and pour over the fish.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, is. 6d. to 2s. Sufficient for 4 per-
sons. Seasonable from January to June.
621. — SCALLOPS IN WHITE WINE SAUCE.
(Fr — Petoncles au Vin Blanc.)
Ingredients. — 18 scallops, milk, butter, 1 small onion, 1 clove, } bay
leaf, salt, white sauce (No. 223).
Method. — Wash the scallops, or escallops, as these shell-fish are often
called ; the washing being absolutely necessary, as they are always
more or less gritty. Put the scallops in a stewpan, with sufficient
milk and water to cover them, add a small onion, peeled and stuck
with a clove, also \ a bay-leaf and a pinch of salt, and boil for 1 5 minutes.
Take up, drain, and finish cooking in white sauce, an extra piece of
fresh butter or a tablespoonful of cream being added at the finish.
For the seasoning, a tiny pinch of cayenne and a grate of nutmeg is
recommended.
Time. — \ an hour. Average Cost, 2s. to 2s. 6d. Sufficient for 8 or
9 persons. Seasonable from January to June.
378 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
622. — SEA-BREAM, BAKED. (Fr.— Breme de Mer
rotie, au four.)
Ingredients. — i bream, seasoning to taste of salt, pepper and cayenne,
of a lb. of butter.
Method. — Well wash the bream, but do not remove the scales, and
wipe away all moisture with a dry cloth. Season it inside and out
with salt, pepper, and cayenne, and lay it in a baking-dish. Place the
butter, in small pieces, upon the fish, and bake for rather more than
30 minutes. It will be found a great improvement to stuff the fish
before baking.
Time. — Rather more than 30 minutes. Average Cost, 3d. to 6d. per lb.
Seasonable in summer, but may be procured all the year round.
Note. — This fish may be broiled over a nice clear fire, and served with a
good brown gravy or white sauce, or it may be stewed in wine.
The Sea-Bream (Fr. breme de mer). — A popular name given to fish of the genus Brama — the true
bream, a fresh-water fish, belongs to the carp family. 'The sea-bream is abundant round the coast
of Cornwall. It is not held in very high estimation.
Mr. Yarrell’s Recipe. — “ When thoroughly cleansed the fish should be wiped dry, but none of
the scales should be taken off. In this state it should be broiled, turning it often, and if the skin
cracks, flour it a little to keep the outer case entire. When on table, the whole skin and scales turn
off without difficulty, and the muscle beneath saturated in its own natural juices which the outside
covering has retained, will be of good flavour.”
623. — SHAD, BAKED. (T-V.— Alose roti, au four.)
Ingredients. — 1 shad, 2 or 3 slices of bacon, 3 or 4 ozs. of veal forcemeat
(see Forcemeats).
Method. — Wash, clean, scale, and dry the fish. Make the forcemeat
as directed, put it inside the fish, and sew up the opening. Place the
fish in a baking-dish or tin, lay the slices of bacon on the top of it,
and bake gently from f to 1 hour. Serve with a suitable fish sauce,
or a tureen of good beef gravy.
Time. — About ij- hours, altogether. Average Cost, 2s. 3d. Sufficient
for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable from April to June.
624. — SHAD, BOILED, WITH DUTCH SAUCE.
(. Fr . — Alose a la Hollandaise.)
Ingredients. — Shad, salt and water, Hollandaise sauce (No. 304).
Method. — Clean the fish, but do not scale it, boil in salt and water,
and serve garnished with fresh parsley and cut lemon. Send a boat
of the sauce to table with the fish.
Time. — From 30 to 40 minutes. Average Cost. 2s. to 2s. 6d. Sufficient
for 8 persons. Seasonable from April to June.
625. — SHAD, BROILED. ( Fr . — Alose Grille.)
Ingredients.— 1 shad, oil, pepper and salt.
RECIPES FOR COOKING FISH
379
Method. — Scale, empty and wash the fish carefully, and make 2
or 3 incisions across the back. Season it with pepper and salt, and
let it remain in oil for 30 minutes. Broil it on both sides over a clear
fme, and serve with caper sauce. The fish is much esteemed by the
French.
Time. — Nearly 1 hour. Average Cost, from 6d. per lb. Seasonable
from April to June.
The Shad (Fr. alose) — The two best known species of the shad, which belongs to the herring
family, are the common or Allice shad, and the Twaite shad. The shad is a salt-water fish, frequent-
ing the mouths of large rivers, which it ascends in the spawning season. In shape it resembles the
herring, but is of a larger size and is called in Scotland the “ herring king.” Its colour is dark blue,
with tints of brown and green,- and white beneath. The Allice shad abounds in the Severn. The
Twaite shad is smaller than the Allice, and is common in the Thames.
626. — SHAD, BROILED. (Fr.— Alose grille.)
Ingredients. — 1 shad weighing about 2 lb., 4 tablespoonfuls of salad-
oil, 1 dessertspoonful of finely-chopped onion, 1 teaspoonful of finely-
chopped parsley, salt and pepper, sorrel, caper or piquant sauce.
Method. — Wash, empty and thoroughly dry the fish, place it in a deep
dish, and add the salad-oil, onion, parsley and a good seasoning of salt
and pepper. Baste frequently, let the fish remain in the marinade
for 2 hours, then drain and dry it well. Broil over a clear fire for
about an hour, according to size, turn the fish frequently, and brush
over occasionally with some of the oil in which the fish was soaked.
Serve the sauce separately in a tureen.
Time. — To broil, about } an hour. Average Cost, is. 6d. to 2s. Suffi-
cient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable from February to September.
627. — SHAD, FRIED. (Fr. — Alose frit.)
Ingredients. — 1 medium-sized shad, flour, salt and pepper, egg and
breadcrumbs, frying-fat, anchovy, tomato or piquant sauce.
Method. — Wash and scale the fish, separate it from the backbone,
and divide into neat fillets. Add a little salt and pepper to 1 tablespoon-
ful of flour, dip the fillets in the mixture, and afterwards, coat the
fillets carefully with egg and breadcrumbs. Have ready a deep pan
of hot fat, fry the fish until lightly browned, then drain well. Garnish
with crisply-fried parsley, and the roe, previously fried. Serve the
sauce separately in a tureen.
Time. — To fry, about 10 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. Suffi-
cient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable from February to September.
628. — SHRIMPS, POTTED. (Fr. — Terrine de Cre-
vettes.)
Ingredients. — 1 pint of shelled shrimps, J of a lb. of fresh butter, 1
blade of pounded mace, cayenne to taste, and, if liked, a little nutmeg.
380
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Have ready i pint of picked shrimps, put them, with
the other ingredients, into a stewpan, let them heat gradually in the
butter, but do not let it boil. Pour into small pots, and, when cold,
cover with melted butter, and carefully exclude the air.
Time. — J of an hour, to soak in the butter. Average Cost, is. 6d.
The Shrimp (Fr. crevette). — This familiar crustacean, belonging to the order Decapoda, or ten-
footed Crustacea, is allied to the lobsters and crawfishes. It inhabits the sandy shores of the coasts
of Britain and Ireland, and is captured in nets, which are pushed before the shrimpers through the
sand. In colour it resembles the sand in which it lives, and is semi-transparent, but after being boiled
it becomes opaque, and changes to the well-known brown hue. The red variety lives in deeper water,
and is caught chiefly on the east and south coasts of England. Its colour before boiling is reddish-
grey. The bulk of the London supply of shrimps comes from Holland from January to the end of
June ; but the Dutch are inferior in quality to the English shrimps, which are abundant from July
to the end of the year.
629. — SHRIMPS AND PRAWNS, TO SHELL.
There is a slight difference in the shape of shrimps and prawns,
the tail of the former being rounded at the bend, like that of a lobster,
but the tail of the prawn presents a sort of knee or angle. To shell a
shrimp, take the head between the right thumb and forefinger, and with
the left forefinger and thumb-nail raise on each side the shell of the
tail, pinch the tail, and the shell will at once separate. To shell prawns,
take the head between the right hand thumb and second finger, take
the tip of the tail between the left thumb and forefinger; with the nail
of the right forefinger raise the shell at the knee or angle, pinch the tail,
and the shell will come apart, leaving the prawn attached to the head.
630. — SKATE, BOILED. (Fr.— Raie au Naturel.)
Ingredients. — 1 skate, salt.
Method. — Clean and skin the skate, put it into a fish-kettle containing
sufficient salted warm water to just cover it, and simmer gently for
about 30 minutes, or until the fish separates readily from the bone.
Drain well, dish on a folded napkin, and serve with shrimp, lobster
or caper sauce.
Time. — From 30 to 50 minutes, according to size. Average Cost, from
4d. to 6d. per lb. Seasonable from August to April.
To Choose Skate. — This fish should be chosen for its firmness, breadth and thickness, and
should have a creamy appearance. It should not be kept longer than a day or two.
The Skate (Fr. raie), a member of the Ray family, is rhomboidal in shape, and has a cartilaginous
skeleton. The body is much depressed ; the teeth are flat, and form a mosaic-like pattern in the
mouth ; the tail is long and slender and hetcrocercal, having the upper lobe longer than the lower;
the mouth is pointed with a prominent ridge. The Thornback differs from the common skate by
having spines on the upper surface of the tail. It is inferior in quality to the true skate, The flesh
of the skate is white, palatable, and easily digested. It is improved by crimping, and is usually sold
in that form.
631. — SKATE WITH BROWN BUTTER.
(Fr. — Raie au beurre-noir.)
Proceed as directed in the foregoing recipe, and serve en a hot dish
RECIPES FOR COOKING FISH
381
without the napkin. Meanwhile heat an oz. of fresh butter until
it becomes nut-brown in colour, then add a teaspoonful of vinegar
and a little chopped parsley. Pour this hot over the fish, garnish
with sprigs of parsley and serve.
632. — SKATE WITH CAPER SAUCE. (Fr.— Raie,
Sauce aux Capres.)
Ingredients. — 2 or 3 slices of skate, -J- a pint of vinegar, 2 ozs. of salt,
\ a teaspoonful of pepper, 1 sliced onion, a small bunch of parsley,
2 bay-leaves, 2 or 3 sprigs of thyme, sufficient warm water to cover
the fish, caper sauce (No. 182).
Method. — Put all the above ingredients into a fish-kettle, and simmer
the skate in them until tender. When it is done, skin the skate neatly,
and pour over it some of the liquor in which it has cooked. Drain well,
put it on a hot dish, pour over it a little caper sauce, and send the
remainder to table in a tureen.
Time. — an hour. Average Cost, 2s. Sufficient for 4 persons. Season-
able from August to April.
Note. — Skate may also be served with onion sauce, or parsley and butter.
633. — SKATE, SMALL, FRIED. (Fr.— Raitons Frits.)
Ingredients. — Skate, sufficient vinegar to cover them, salt and pepper
to taste, 1 sliced onion, a small bunch of parsley, the juice of l a lemon,
frying-fat.
Method. — Cleanse the skate, lay them in a dish, with vinegar to
cover them, add the salt, pepper, onion, parsley, and lemon-juice,
and let the fish remain in this pickle for \\ hours. Drain them well,
flour them or cover them with egg and breadcrumbs, and fry in hot
fat until nicely browned. They may be served either with or without
sauce Skate is not good if dressed too fresh, unless it is crimped,
and it should, therefore, be kept for a day.
Time. — 10 minutes. Average Cost, from 4d. per lb. Seasonable from
August to April.
634. — SMELTS, TO BAKE. (Fr. — Eperlans au Gratin.)
Ingredients. — 12 smelts, breadcrumbs, 2 ozs. of fresh butter, salt and
cayenne to taste.
Method. — Wash and dry the fish thoroughly in a cloth, and arrange
them nicely in a flat baking-dish. Cover them with fine breadcrumbs,
and place over them little pieces of butter. Season and bake for 15
minutes. Just before serving, add a squeeze of lemon-juice, and garnish
with fried parsley and cut lemon.
Time. — 15 minutes. Average Cost, from is. to 2s. per dozen. Suffi-
cient for 4 persons. Seasonable from October to May.
3§2 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
635. — SMELTS, TO FRY. (Fr. — Eperlans Frits.)
Ingredients. — Smelts, egg and breadcrumbs, a little flour, boiling fat
or oil.
Method. — Smelts should be very fresh, and not washed more than is
necessary to cleanse them. Dry them in a cloth, flour lightly, dip them
in egg, cover with very fine breadcrumbs, and put them into boiling
fat or oil. Fry a nice pale brown, then drain the smelts before the fire
on a piece of paper, and serve with plain melted butter. This fish
is often used as a garnish.
Time. — 5 minutes. Average Cost, from is. to 2s. per dozen. Season-
able from October to May.
To Choose Smelts.— When good, this fish is of a fine silvery appearance, and when alive the back
is of a dark-brown shade, which, after death, fades to a light fawn. Smelts should have a refresh-
ing fragrance, resembling that of a cucumber.
636. — SMELTS, POTTED. (Fr. — Terrine d’Eperlans.)
Ingredients. — Fresh smelts, mace, pepper and salt, butter.
Method. — Wash the fish carefully, draw out the insides, and sprinkle
the seasoning over them. Put them into a baking-tin with pieces of
butter, and bake for 20 minutes. Allow the smelts to get nearly cold,
then place them on a clean cloth to drain, and put into pots. Clarify
the butter in which they were baked, adding more if necessary, and
pour it over the fish.
Time. — 20 minutes. Average Cost, is. to 2s. per dozen. Seasonable
from October to May.
The Smelt (Fr. eperlan) is a small but very delicate fish, and is highly esteemed. It is allied to
the salmon, and inhabits the sea about the mouths of rivers. The body is long and compressed,
Silvery-white in colour, and semi-transparent ; the eyes are large. From August to May it frequents
fresh water and spawns ; afterwards it returns to the sea. A violet-like odour is exhaled from the smelt.
The Atharine, or “ sand-smelt,” is an inferior fish, sometimes sold for the true variety. It is allied
to the mullets, and is of a pale pink, spotted with black.
637. — SNAILS, BAKED. (Fr. — Escargots rotis.)
Ingredients. — 2 dozen snails, 1 oz. of butter, 1 teaspoonful of finely-
chopped parsley, 1 shallot finely-chopped, breadcrumbs, salt and
pepper.
Method. — Soak the snails in salt and water for 12 hours, then drain
them well. Sprinkle lightly with salt, pepper, shallot and parsley,
cover with breadcrumbs, and1 add a small piece of butter. Bake in a
moderate oven for 20 minutes, and serve hot.
Time. — To bake, about 20 minutes. Average Cost, from 6d. to is.
per dozen.
638. — SNAILS WITH PIQUANT SAUCE.
(Fr. — Escargots, sauce piquarite.)
Ingredients. — 2 dozen snails, \ an oz, of butter, 2 shallots finely-
RECIPES FOR COOKING FISH 383
chopped, 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of piquant sauce, salt and pepper, maitre
d’hotel butter as directed in recipe No. 551.
Method. — Cover the snails with salt and water, let them remain in it
for 1 2 hours, then wash and drain well. Put the snails into a sauce-,
pan containing sufficient boiling water to cover them, cook gently for
about 20 minutes, then drain, and when cool, remove them from
their shells. Meanwhile, melt the butter, fry the shallots without
browning, add the piquant sauce and snails, and season to taste.
Make thoroughly hot, replace the snails in their shells, cover with
maitre d’hotel butter, and serve.
Time. — Altogether, about 35 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. to is. per
dozen.
639. — SOLE, BAKED WITH SHRIMPS. (Fr.— Sole
aux Crevettes.)
Ingredients.— 1 medium-sized sole, {- of a pint of picked shrimps, 1
dessertspoonful of white breadcrumbs, 1 teaspoonful of anchovy-
essence, 1 egg, a little white sauce or milk, cayenne, salt, brown bread-
crumbs, a little butter.
Method. — Remove the skin, make an incision down the centre as for
filleting, and raise as far as possible the flesh on each side. Chop the
shrimps coarsely, add the breadcrumbs, cayenne, salt (if necessary), an-
chovy-essence, \ the egg, and sufficient white sauce or milk to moisten
the whole. Press the mixture lightly inside the fish, and instead of
drawing the 2 sides together, fill the gap between them with the
forcemeat, and flatten the surface of it to the level of the fish.
Brush over with the remainder of the egg, cover lightly with pale
brown breadcrumbs, and bake for about 20 minutes in a moderate
oven.
Time, — About 40 minutes. Average Cost, from is. gd. to 2s. gd.
Sufficient for 2 to 3 persons. Seasonable at any time.
The Sole (Fr. sole). — Next to the turbot, the sole is the most excellent among flat fish. Its flesh
is white and delicate and easily digested, and is highly esteemed, not only as a table-fish, but also
for invalids. It is captured on the British coasts, but those caught on the western coast are usually
superior in size. The sole spawns during February and March and during that season its flesh is
less palatable. Allied to the sole is the Lemon Sole, which is less delicate in flavour. The flavour
of the sole depends greatly upon the ground and the bait upon which the fish feeds. Soles are usually
caught by means of the trawl-net, an instrument shaped like a great triangular pocket from 60 to
80 feet in length and open at the mouth from 32 to 40 feet. The net is kept extended by means
of a large wooden beam 36 to 60 feet long, and fixed at its ends by iron frames, which raise it from
the ground. It is dragged along the bottom of the sea by the movement of the trawling- vessel,
640. — SOLE, BOILED. (Fr. — Sole bouillie.)
Ingredients. — 1 large sole, salt.
Method. — Wash and clean the fish, but do not skin it, and cut off (he
fins. Have ready a fish-kettle with sufficient warm water to cover the
fish, add salt to taste, put in the sole, and cook gently from 10 to 12
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
384
minutes, according to its size. Drain well, dish on a folded napkin,
garnish with parsley and cut lemon, and serve with shrimp, lobster,
or plain melted butter sauce. .
Time. — After the water boils, 10 to 12 minutes for a large sole.
Average Cost, is. 9d. to 2s. 3d. Sufficient for 4 persons.
To Choose Soles.— The fish should be both thick and firm. If the skin is removed with diffi-
culty and the flesh looks grey, it is good.
641. — SOLE, BAKED FILLETS OF, WITH FORCE-
MEAT. (Fr. — Filets de Sole Farcis.)
Ingredients.— 1 medium-sized sole, 2 tablespoonfuls of breadcrumbs,
1 tablespoonful of finely-chopped suet, 1 dessertspoonful of finely-
chopped parsley, J of a teaspoonful of mixed herbs, 1 egg, salt and
pepper, butter, pale-brown breadcrumbs.
Method. — Wash, skin, and fillet the sole. Mix the above ingredients
together with as much of the egg as is necessary to moisten the whole.
Spread a thin layer of forcemeat on each fillet, and fold in two. Arrange
the fillets in a fireproof baking-dish, and fill up the spaces between them
with the rest of the forcemeat. Sprinkle lightly with pale-brown bread-
crumbs, add a few small pieces of butter, and bake for about 30 minutes
in a moderate oven. Serve in the dish in which they are cooked.
Time. — To bake, 30 minutes. Average Cost, from is. 9d. to 2S. 3d.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.
642. — SOLE WITH CREAM SAUCE. (Fr.— Sole a la
Creme.)
Ingredients. — 1 medium-sized sole, 1 pint of milk (or milk and fish
stock), 2 ozs. of butter, i-\ ozs. of flour, a blade of mace, a small piece
of onion, salt and pepper, lemon-juice.
Method. — Wash, skin, and fillet the sole, and divide each fillet length-
wise into two. Tie each strip loosely into a knot, or fold the ends over
each other; place on a greased tin, season with salt and pepper, sprinkle
with lemon-juice, cover with a greased paper, and bake from 10 to
15 minutes in a moderate oven. To make the stock, simmer the bones
of the fish, the onion, and mace in the milk for about 1 5 minutes, then
strain and season to taste. Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the
flour, cook for 3 or 4 minutes, then pour in the milk, and stir until it
boils. Let the sauce simmer 10 minutes at least ; then arrange the
fish nicely on a hot dish, either in a circle or forming two rows, and
strain the sauce over, taking care to coat the fish evenly. Decorate
with a little chopped parsley or lobster coral.
Time. — To bake, from 10 to 15 minutes. Average Cost, is. pd. to
2s. 9d. Sufficient for 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.
FISH
i. — Scallops au Gratin. 2. — Red Mullet.
6. — Mayonnaise of Salmon. 7. — Sa
4.— Cod Steak. 5.— Fried Sole.
8. — Brown Trout. 9. — Smelts.
RECIPES FOR COOKING FISH
385
643. — SOLE A L’EPICURIENNE.
Ingredients. — i medium-sized sole, J of a pint of good brown sauce,
No. 233, 1 tablespoonful of sherry, 1 tomato, 12 button mushrooms,
1 egg, breadcrumbs.
Method.— Wash and skin the sole, and cut it across into 4 or 5 pieces.
Brush each piece over with egg, coat with breadcrumbs, and fry in hot
fat. Have ready the brown sauce in a stewpan, put in the pieces of
fish, tomato and mushrooms, cover closely, and cook very gently for
20 minutes. Remove the fish carefully, and arrange it on a hot dish
in the form of a whole sole. Add the sherry to the sauce, season to
taste, strain over the fish, garnish with the mushrooms, and serve.
Time. — \ an hour. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. to 2s. 9d. Sufficient for 3 or
4 persons. Seasonable at any time.
644. — SOLE, FILLETS OF, IN CASES. {Fr.— Filets de
Sole en Surprise.)
Ingredients. — 2 medium-sized soles, 1 small carrot (sliced), 1 bay-leaf,
1 glass of Chablis, i-J- ozs. of butter, \ a pint of milk, 2 ozs. of grated
Parmesan cheese, 2 ozs. of flour (sifted), 3 eggs, salt and pepper to taste,
souffle cases.
Method. — Skin and fillet the soles. Cut up the bones, and cook in
the milk with the sliced carrot and bay-leaf. Cut the fillets in halves,
roll up, and place them in a buttered saute-pan. Season with pepper
and salt, moisten with the wine, cover with buttered paper, and poach
in the oven for about 8 minutes. Prepare a souffle mixture in the
following manner : Strain the milk into a clean stewpan, add the re-
mainder of butter, and bring to the boil, stir in the flour w'hilst boiling,
and work vigorously with a wooden spoon or spatula until the
panada leaves the sides of the pan, then add the grated cheese, and
season with cayenne. Let the ingredients cool a little, and stir in the
yolks of the 3 eggs and the whites of two, previously whisked to a stiff
froth. Butter some small china or paper souffle cases, put a dessertspoon-
ful of the mixture in each, and upon this place \ a fillet of sole with a
little of the liquor of the fish. Fill up each case with the souffle
mixture, and bake in a moderate oven for about 15 minutes. Dish
up, and serve hot.
Note. — If preferred, this dish may be baked in one souffle dish, sufficiently
large to hold the above quantity.
Time. — f- of an hour. Average Cost, 4s. 3d. Sufficient for 8 persons,
allowing 2 small souffles for each. Seasonable at any time.
645. — SOLE, A LA COLBERT, FILLETS OF.
Ingredients. — 2 rather small soles, 1 oz. of butter, 1 teaspoonful of
o
386
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
finely-chopped parsley, i teaspoonful of lemon- juice, cayenne, pepper
and salt, browned breadcrumbs.
Method. — Mix the butter, parsley, lemon-juice and cayenne together
on a plate, smooth the mixture into a pat, and set it aside to become
firm. Wash, skin and fillet the sole, sprinkle each fillet with salt,
pepper and lemon-juice, and roll up, making the outer side of the sole
the inside of the roll ; the outside skin contracts under the influence
of heat, and keeps the rolls in shape. Place on a buttered tin, cover
with a greased paper, and bake for about 15 minutes. When done,
roll quicky in the browned breadcrumbs, place a small round pat of the
Maitre d'Hotel on the top of each, and pour round anchovy or some
other sauce.
Time. — About 15 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. 3d. to 2s. 9d. Sufficient
for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
646. — SOLE A L’HORLY, FILLETS OF.
Ingredients. — 1 fairly-large sole. For the marinade, or brine : 1
tablespoonful of lemon-juice (or the same quantity of mixed tarragon
and chili vinegar), 1 tablespoonful of salad-oil, a teaspoonful each of
finely-chopped parsley and onion or shallots, salt and pepper. For
the batter : 2 ozs. of flour, \ gill of tepid water, 1 tablespoonful of
salad-oil or melted butter, the white of 1 egg, salt..
Method. — Wash, skin and fillet the sole, and divide each fillet length-
wise and across into two. Place the fillets in a deep dish with the marin-
ade, and let them soak for 1 hour, then drain well. Have ready
the batter, made by mixing the flour and salt smoothly with the water
and oil, and lastly adding the stiffly-whipped white of egg. Dip the
fillets of fish in the batter, take them out on the point of a skewer,
drop them carefully into a deep pan of hot fat, and fry until golden-
brown. Dish on a folded serviette or fish paper, and garnish with
fried parsley.
Time. — Altogether, if to if hours. Average Cost, 2s. to 2S. 6d.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
647. — SOLES, FILLETS OF, NORMANDY STYLE.
( Fr . — Filets de Sole a la Normande.)
Ingredients. — 2 soles, white wine, 1 finely-chopped shallot, butter, cooked
oysters, mussels, mushrooms, Normande sauce (No. 204).
Method. — Clean, skin, and trim the soles, remove the fillets, fold them
in two, and place them in a buttered saute-pan, season with pepper
and salt, moisten with 1 gill of white wine, sprinkle with a finely-
chopped shallot, place a few pieces of butter here and there, and cook
in the oven for about 10 minutes. Have ready a garniture of pre-
pared oysters, mussels, button mushrooms, and croutes or fleurons
RECIPES FOR COOKING FISH
387
(little half-moon shapes of puff-paste). Put the fillets on a dish,
arrange the garnish neatly, and sauce over with the Normande sauce in
which the garniture was cooked. Garnish the sides with croutes of
bread made from rasped French dinner rolls (buttered slices browned
in the oven) or with fleurons. Serve the remaining sauce separately
in a boat.
Note. — If smelts are in season this dish should be garnished with a few
dried smelts in addition to the other garniture.
Time. — To cook, 10 minutes. Average Cost, 4s. 3d. to 4s. gd. Suffi-
cient for 7 or 8 persons. Seasonable at any time.
648. — SOLES, FILLETS OF, POLISH STYLE.
(Fr. — Filets de Soles, a la Polonaise.)
Ingredients. — Soles, white wine, truffle, whiting forcemeat (No. 415),
prawns or crayfish, Tomato Sauce (No. 281.)
Method. — Skin and fillet the soles, flatten them a little, fold and pare
neatly, and put them in a buttered saute-pan. Season with pepper and
salt, add a wineglassful of white wine, cover with buttered paper, and
cook in the oven for about 10 minutes. Have ready a buttered border
mould, decorate the sides with a few fancifully-cut slices of truffles,
fill up with “ whiting forcemeat,” poach in a bain-marie, turn out
on a dish, dress the fillets on top of the border in a circular row,
and place a prawn or crayfish tail on top of each fillet. Fill the
centre with a salpicon of truffles, mushrooms, olives, and cray-
fish tails. Sauce over carefully with a well-prepared Tomato sauce,
and serve.
Time. — To cook, about 10 minutes. Seasonable all the year.
649. — SOLE, ROLLED FILLETS OF, CARDINAL
STYLE. (Fr.— Paupiettes de Sole a la
Cardinale.)
Ingredients. — 2 large or 3 small soles, chopped truffles, light fish
forcemeat (No. 415), 1 glass of Chablis, \ of a pint of fish stock, 1 gill of
Cardinal sauce (No. 292), \ a teaspoonful of Krona seasoning, lobster
spawn, salt and pepper.
Method. — Skin and fillet the soles, flatten each fillet, trim, and season
them with salt and pepper. Spread the cut side with a light fish
forcemeat, sprinkle over some chopped truffles, and roll up the fillets
in the form of olives. Place them, folded side downwards, in a
buttered earthenware casserole, moisten with a glass of Chablis wine,
and the fish stock. Sprinkle with \ a teaspoonful of Krona seasoning,
cover with buttered paper, and cook in a hot oven for about 15
minutes. Pour off some of the liquor, and add to it the Cardinal sauce,
highly-coloured with lobster spawn, and reduce a little. Strain this
over the fillets. Place a slice of truffle on each fillet of sole. Re-heat,
and send to table in the casserole.
388
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Time. — About 15 minutes. Average Cost, 3s. 6d. to 4s. Sufficient for
8 or 10 persons. Seasonable all the year.
650. — SOLE, FRIED. (Fr. — Sole frite.)
Ingredients. — 1 medium-sized sole, oil or clarified fat, egg, bread-
crumbs, flour, salt and pepper.
Method. — Wash and skin the sole, cut off the fins, and dry well.
Add a liberal seasoning of salt and pepper to a teaspoonful of flour,
rub it well into the sole, then brush it over with egg, and cover
with fine breadcrumbs. Lift it carefully on to the wire drainer, lower
it into the hot oil or fat, and fry until it acquires a pale golden-brown
colour. Soles may also be fried, though less easily, and sometimes
less satisfactorily, in a large frying-pan. The oval form is preferable
for the purpose ; and in frying, care should be taken to first cook the
side of the sole intended to be served uppermost, otherwise bread-
crumbs that have become detached from the side first fried may adhere
to the side next cooked, and spoil its appearance. Drain well on kitchen
paper, and serve garnished with fried parsley.
Time. — About 10 minutes. Average Cost, is. gd. to 2s. Sufficient
for 2 or 3 persons. Seasonable all the year.
651. — SOLES, TO FILLET.
Soles for filleting should be large, as the flesh can be more easily
separated from the bones, and there is less waste. To skin any fish,
it must be kept wet. It is easier to skin if it is stale.
Method.— With flat-fish begin at the tail, cut the skin across, but do
not cut into the flesh, and loosen the skin along the fins on either side
with a skewer or finger. Then tear off the skin with the left hand,
keeping the thumb of the right hand well pressed over the backbone
to prevent the removal of the flesh with the skin. Use a sharp knife
for filleting ; keep it pressed to the bone, raise the flesh carefully, remove
the fillets, and divide them into pieces suitable for serving. Fillets
of a small sole are not divided ; they are rolled, tied, or folded according
to requirements.
652. — SOLES, FRICASSEE OF. (Fr. —Fricassee de
Soles.)
Ingredients. — 2 medium-sized soles, 1 small sole, 1 yolk of egg, 1 table-
spoonful of breadcrumbs, -} a teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley,
a little finely-grated lemon-rind, salt and pepper. Butter or fat for
frying, egg and breadcrumbs, J of a pint of brown sauce, No. 233,
1 tablespoonful of sherry, a teaspoonful of lemon-juice.
Method. — Remove the skin and bones from the small sole, and chop
the flesh finely. Mix with it the breadcrumbs, parsley, lemon-rind,
and a little salt and pepper, and bind with a little of the yolk of egg.
RECIPES FOR COOKING FISH
3«9
Shape into small balls, fry in hot butter or fat until crisp and lightly
browned, and drain well. Skin and trim the soles, coat them carefully
with egg and breadcrumbs, and fry them brown in hot fat. Drain
well, place the soles in a saute-pan, pour over them the hot sauce,
add the forcemeat balls and leinon-juice, and season to taste. Simmer
gently for io minutes, then serve the fish with the sauce strained over,
and garnished with the balls.
Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, 3s. 9d. to 4s. 3d. Sufficient for
5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
653. — SOLE AU GRATIN.
In France there is but one way of doing Sole au Gratin, but in England
there are several ways. There is, however, no better method than the
French ; and a sole cooked “ au gratin ” after the French manner
is an exceedingly tasty dish, and once introduced will be preferred to all
others.
Ingredients. — 1 large sole, \ a glass of white wine, preserved mush-
rooms sliced, Italian sauce (No. 252), mushroom liquor, chopped
parsley, brown breadcrumbs, butter, salt and pepper, lemon-juice.
Method. — Take the sole, skin both sides, cut off the head and fins,
and make several incisions with a knife across one side of the fish.
Place, cut side upwards, on a well-buttered silver-plated “ gratin
dish,” season with pepper and salt, add half a small glass of white
wine, a few drops of lemon-juice, a little mushroom liquor, and some
chopped parsley. Place a row of sliced preserved mushrooms down
the centre of the fish, and cover with a rich Italian sauce. Sprinkle
with brown breadcrumbs, put a few tiny bits of butter here and there
on top of the fish, and bake in a moderate oven from 20 to 30 minutes,
according to the size of the sole. Place the dish as it leaves the oven
on another (larger) dish, and send to table.
Time. — From 20 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, is. 9d. to 2s. 6d. Suffi-
cient for 2 or 3 persons. Seasonable all the year.
654. — SOLE WITH FINE HERBS. (Fr.— Sole aux
Fines Herbes.)
Ingredients. — 1 medium-sized sole, 1 oz. of butter, of a pint of good
stock, 1 glass of sherry, 2 finely-chopped shallots, 1 tablespoonful of
finely-chopped parsley, £ a teaspoonful each of anchovy and Harvey’s
sauce, salt and pepper.
Method. — Melt the butter in a saute-pan, add the rest of the ingredi-
ents, except the anchovy and Harvey’s sauce, and warm gradually.
Wash and skin the sole, put it into the pan as soon as the contents are
hot, cover closely, and cook in a moderate oven for \ an hour. Just
before serving add the anchovy and Harvey’s sauce ; then place the
sole on a hot dish, and strain the sauce over.
390
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Time. — About 40 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. 3d. Sufficient for 2 or
3 persons. Seasonable at any time.
655. — SOLE WITH MAITRE D’HOTEL SAUCE.
(Fr. — Sole a la Maitre d’Hotel.)
Sole a la Maitre d’Hotel is dressed and served in precisely the same
way as Sole a la Creme, with the addition of a dessertspoonful of finely-
chopped parsley and a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, both of which must
be stirred into the sauce just before serving.
656. — SOLES, PAUPIETTES OF, RICHELIEU STYLE.
( Fr . — Paupiettes de Soles a la Richelieu.)
Ingredients.— 2 large soles, 1 whiting, 3 ozs. of breadcrumbs, 3 ozs.
of butter, the yolks of 4 eggs, 2 ozs. of lobster-meat, 1 oz. of lobster
butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, 1 finely-chopped shallot, 1 gill of
white wine, 1 dessertspoonful of chopped parsley, lemon-juice, pepper
and salt, 8 small croutes of fine bread, 8 mushroom heads, 1 truffle,
\ an oz. of flour, \ a pint of white stock.
Method. — Skin the soles, remove the fillets, flatten them a little.
Put the bones in a stewpan with -} a pint of water and the stock, reduce
to half the quantity, and strain. Skin and bone the whiting, pound
in a mortar till smooth. Moisten the breadcrumbs with the cream,
add these to the pounded fish with the shallot and lobster-meat, pound
and mix thoroughly. Now add ozs. of butter and yolks of 3 eggs,
season with pepper and salt, mix in a teaspoonful of chopped pars-
ley and rub through a sieve. Spread one side of each fillet with
the forcemeat, roll up, trim a little, and wrap each fillet in a piece of
buttered paper. Place them closely in a buttered saute-pan, sprinkle
with a few drops of lemon-juice, cook for 5 minutes in the oven,
then add the wine, baste well, and cook for another 10 minutes,
or longer if required. Spread one side of each croute with the remain-
ing forcemeat, and bake for a few minutes. Take up the fillets,
remove the paper, place upright on the croutes, put a mushroom head
on each, and keep hot. In the meantime, knead 1 oz. of butter
with the flour, stir over the fire for a few minutes, add the liquor of
the fillets and the reduced stock, stir until it boils, and simmer for
1 5 minutes. Bind with the yolk of egg, strain, work in the lobster-
butter, and season to taste. Dish up the paupiettes, sauce over,
sprinkle with chopped parsley, place a star of truffle in the centre of
each, and serve.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 5s. to 5s. 6d. Sufficient for 8
persons. Seasonable at any time.
RECIPES FOR COOKING FISH 391
657. — SOLES WITH MUSHROOMS. (Fr. — Soles
aux Champignons.)
Ingredients. — 2 medium sized soles, \ a pint of mushroom sauce,
No. 257, milk, salt and pepper.
Method. — Skin and trim the soles, place them in an earthenware
baking-dish, sufficiently large to allow the fish to lie flat, but one above
the other if more convenient. Sprinkle them liberally with salt and
pepper, barely cover with milk, and put over all a greased paper, to
keep in the steam. Cook in a moderate oven for 10 or 15 minutes,
then drain well, and place the soles on a hot dish. Make the sauce as
directed, but before adding the mushrooms, boil well to reduce, in order
that some or all of the liquor from the dish may be mixed with it,
otherwise the sauce would be too thin. Season to taste, pour over the
fish, and serve.
Time. — To cook the soles, from 10 to 15 minutes. Average Cost, 2s.
to 2s. 6d., exclusive of the sauce. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Season-
able at any time.
658. — SOLE, PORTUGUESE STYLE. (Fr.— Sole a la
Portugaise.)
Ingredients. — 1 medium-sized sole, 1 oz. of butter, 2 or 3’ tomatoes
sliced, 1 onion sliced, 1 finely-chopped shallot, 1 teaspoonful of finely-
chopped parsley, \ a teaspoonful of anchovy-essence, brown bread-
crumbs, grated Parmesan cheese, salt and pepper.
Method. — Skin the sole and make an incision down the centre as for
filleting, and raise the flesh from the bone on each side as far as possible.
Mix the butter, onion, parsley, and anchovy-essence well together,
and put the mixture inside the sole. Arrange the slices of onion and
tomato alternately, and overlapping each other on the top of the fish ;
or if less onion is preferred, surround each slice of tomato by a single
ring of onion. Mix together a dessertspoonful of grated Parmesan
cheese, and a dessertspoonful of brown breadcrumbs, and sprinkle
these over the fish. Place small pieces of butter on the top, cover with
a greased paper, and bake for about 20 minutes in a moderate oven.
Serve with tomato or brown sauce.
Time. — To bake, about 20 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. 3d. Sufficient
for 3 persons. Seasonable at any time.
659. — SPRATS, DRIED. (Fr. — Melettes fumes.)
Dried sprats should be put into a basin, and boiling water poured
over them ; they may then be skinned and served, and this will be
found a much better way than boiling them. They can also be
broiled.
392
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
660. — SPRATS. {Fr. — Melettes or Harenguets.)
Sprats should be cooked very fresh. Their condition can be ascer-
tained by their eyes, which should be bright. Wipe them dry ; fasten
them in rows by a skewer run through the eyes ; dredge with flour,
and broil them on a gridiron over a nice clear fire. The gridiron should
be rubbed with suet. Serve very hot, with cut lemons and brown
bread and butter.
Time. — 3 or 4 minutes. Average Cost, id. to 3d. per lb. Allow
1 lb. for 3 persons. Seasonable from November to March.
The Sprat (Fr. melette). — This well-known migratory little fish is allied to the herring, and was
formerly supposed to be the young of that fish. There are, however, specifically distinct character-
istics which distinguish the sprat on close examination from the herring, the chief being the serrated
or notched edge of the abdomen, the greater prominence of the ventral fins, and differences in the
structure of the teeth. The sprat abounds in the North Atlantic and Mediterranean Seas, and on
many parts of the British coasts, where in the winter and spring they appear in immense shoals, and
are captured in vast quantities. The flesh of the sprat is w'holesome and well-flavoured. Large
quantities of sprats are used by the farmers near the coasts for manure. Sprats are also dried and
cured in a similar manner to red herrings. In Scotland the sprat is called the Garvie.
661. — SPRATS, TO PRESERVE.
Ingredients. — \ a peck of sprats, 1 lb. of salt, 2 ozs. of baysalt, 2 ozs.
of saltpetre, 1 oz. of sal-prunella, a little cochineal.
Method. — Pound all the ingredients, except the sprats, in a mortar,
then put the sprats in a pan in layers with the seasoning, press them
tightly down, and cover close. They will be ready for use in 5 or 6
months.
To Choose Sprats. — Choose those with a silvery appearance, brightness being a sign of fresh-
ness.
662. -SPRAT PASTE.
Method. — To make sprat -paste, which is similar to anchovy-paste, bake
the sprats with a little butter in an earthenware dish, remove
the heads, tails, backbone and skin, pound the fish well in a mortar,
and rub through a fine sieve. Season well with salt, cayenne and
pepper, add a good pinch of ground mace, and anchovy-essence to
taste. Press into small pots, and cover with clarified butter.
Time. — 5 or 6 minutes. Seasonable from November to March.
663. — STURGEON, BAKED. {Fr.— Esturgeon roti
au Vin Blanc.)
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of sturgeon, salt and pepper to taste, 1 small
bunch of herbs, the juice of -} a lemon, \ of a lb. of butter, \ a pint of
white wine.
Method. — Cleanse the fish thoroughly, skin it, and remove the inside.
Have ready a large baking-dish, lay the fish in it, sprinkle over the
seasoning and herbs very finely minced, and moisten it with the lemon-
r
FISH.
i. Steamed Sole.
2. Boiled Mackerel.
3. Boiled Turbot,
RECIPES FOR COOKING FISH
393
juice and wine. Place the butter in small pieces over the whole of the
fish, put it in the oven, and baste frequently ; brown it nicely, and serve
with its own gravy.
Time. — From i to i£ hours. Average Cost, is. 6d. to 3s. 6d. per lb.
Seasonable from April to September.
The Sturgeon (Fr. esturgeon ) was highly esteemed by the Romans, and in the time of the Emperor
Severus it was regarded as one of the most important delicacies of the table. Its virtues are cele-
brated by the poet Martial. The sturgeon is an inhabitant of the Baltic, the Mediterranean, the
Caspian, and the Black Seas, and of the Danube, the Volga, the Don, and other large rivers. It
abounds in the rivers of North America, and is occasionally taken in the Thames, in the Esk, and in
the Eden. When caught in the Thames, within the jurisdiction of the Lord Mayor, it may be claimed
by him ; formerly it belonged by hereditary right to the King. The average length of the common
sturgeon is about 6 feet, but other species, as the great or white sturgeon frequently attain to larger
dimensions. The Sterlet, a smaller species about 3 feet in length, found in the Caspian Sea and
some Russian rivers, is the most delicate in flavour, and its roe is the most highly esteemed for making
caviare. In general form the sturgeon is somewhat slender ; the body is covered with bony plates in
longitudinal rows ; the mouth, destitute of teeth, is situated on the upper surface of the head at the'
extremity of a proboscis. Its tail is heterocercal, or unequally lobed. The sturgeon, besides its ex-
cellent flesh, is valuable for its roe, from which caviare is prepared, and also for its air-bladder, which
furnishes the finest isinglass ; both these products constituting important articles of commerce.
664. — STURGEON, BAKED OR ROASTED.
Ingredients. — The tail-end of a sturgeon, veal forcemeat (No. 412),
butter or fat for basting.
Method. — Wash and skin the fish, split it down the inner side, care-
fully remove the backbone, and fill the cavity with the forcemeat.
Replace the fish in its original form, and tie a buttered paper over the
cut side. Have ready some hot butter or fat in a baking-dish or tin,
put in the fish, baste well, and bake from 1 to i£ hours in a moderate
oven, basting frequently. Serve with good brown gravy or a suitable
fish sauce.
Time. — Altogether, to if hours. Average Cost, is. 6d. to 3s. 6d.
per lb. Seasonable from April to September.
Note. — Sturgeon may be plainly-boiled, and served with Dutch sauce. The
fish is very firm, and requires long boiling.
665. — STURGEON CUTLETS. ( Fr . — Cotelettes
d’ Esturgeon.)
Ingredients. — 1£ lb. of sturgeon, \ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped
parsley, f of a teaspoonful of finely-grated lemon-rind, egg and bread-
crumbs, salt and pepper, fat for frying, piquant or tomato sauce (No.
281 ).
Ingredients. — Cut the fish into thin slices, flatten them with a cutlet"
bat or heavy knife, and trim them into shape. Add the parsley and
lemon-rind to the breadcrumbs, and season with salt and pepper.
Brush over with beaten egg, coat carefully with the seasoned bread-
crumbs, and fry in hot fat until lightly browned on both sides. Drain
free from fat, and serve with piquant or tomato sauce poured round.
Time. — To fry, about 10 minutes. Average Cost, from is. 6d. per lb.
Sufficient for 6 or 8 persons. Seasonable, April to September.
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
394
666. — STURGEON, MARINADED. (Fr. — Esturgeon
marine.)
Ingredients. — 2 or 3 lb. of sturgeon, 1} ozs. of butter, 1 Spanish onion
chopped, 1 small carrot sliced, £ of a turnip coarsely-chopped, 1 strip
of celery chopped, 2 bay-leaves, 1 dessertspoonful of chopped parsley,
£ a pint of vinegar, 1 pint of fish stock or water, 1 blade of mace, 6
peppercorns, \ a teaspoonful of salt.
Method. — Cold remains may be used for this dish instead of raw fish,
which, when used, must be gently stewed for 1 hour in a little stock
or water. This stock is employed to form the basis of the marinade.
Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the onion, carrot, turnip, celery,
bay-leaves and parsley, cover closely, cook gently for about 20 minutes,
then add the vinegar, fish stock or water, mace, peppercorns and salt.
Simmer gently for 1 5 minutes, then turn the preparation into an earthen-
ware vessel, and as soon as it is quite cold put in the fish. Let it
remain for about 12 hours, then serve with a little of the liquor strained
round.
Time. — About 2 hours, when using raw fish. Average Cost, sturgeon,
from is. 6d. per lb. Sufficient for 8 or 12 persons. Seasonable, April to
September.
667. — STURGEON, PROVENCALE STYLE.
{Fy. — Esturgeon a la Provenpale.)
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of sturgeon in one slice, stock, i |- ozs. of butter,
slices of ham or bacon, \ a clove of garlic, \ of a teaspoonful of powdered
mixed herbs, salt and pepper, flour.
Method. — Wash and dry the fish thoroughly, and coat it lightly with
flour seasoned with salt and pepper. Melt the butter in a stewpan,
fry the fish on both sides, and when nicely browned cover it with strips
of ham or bacon. Pour a little stock round to about half the depth
of the fish, add a little salt and pepper, and the garlic and herbs. Cover
closely, and simmer gently from 40 to 60 minutes, according to size
and the age of the fish from which the piece was taken. Serve the
fish with the gravy strained round, or, if preferred, send it to table
simply garnished with sliced lemon and parsley. Serve brown sauce
or anchovy sauce separately.
Time. — From 1 to ij hours. Average Cost, from is. 6d. per lb. Suffi-
cient for 6 or 8 persons. Seasonable, April to September.
668. — STURGEON, STEWED. ( Fr . — Ragout d’ estur-
geon.)
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of sturgeon, white stock, 1 glass of sherry or Madeira,
1 tablespoonful of capers, i^- ozs. of butter or fat, vinegar, flour, salt
and pepper, 1 lemon.
RECIPES FOR COOKING FISH
395
Method. — Wash and dry the fish thoroughly, and cut it into slices,
from f- to i inch in thickness. Cover these with vinegar, let them
soak for 5 or 6 minutes, then drain and dry them, and coat them lightly
with flour seasoned with salt and pepper. Melt the butter or fat,
fry the fish on both sides until lightly browned, and drain them free
from fat. Place the fish in a stewpan, add the wine, and as much stock
as will barely cover them, and a seasoning of salt and pepper. Cover
closely, stew gently for about 1 hour, then remove to a hot dish, strain
the gravy, and return it to the stewpan. Season the gravy to taste,
add the capers and a little lemon-juice or vinegar, make it thoroughly
hot, and pour it over the fish. Garnish with sliced lemon, and
serve.
Time. — About hours. Average Cost, from is. 6d. per lb. Sufficient
for 6 or 8 persons. Seasonable, April to September.
669. — TENCH, BAKED. (Fr.— Tanche roti.)
Ingredients. — 1 tench, 3 ozs. of butter or fat, 2 shallots finely-chopped,
2 lemons, \ a pint of white sauce, 1 tablespoonful of coarsely-chopped
gherkin, salt and pepper.
Method. — Scale and clean the fish thoroughly, remove the gills,
which are always muddy, then sprinkle the fish liberally with lemon-
juice, and put it aside for 1 hour. Melt the butter in a baking-dish,
put in the fish, and baste it well, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and add
the shallots. Cover the fish with a greased paper, and bake gently
from 25 to 35 minutes, according to size. Make the sauce as directed,
add the gherkin and a tablespoonful of lemon-juice, and season to
taste. Serve the fish with the sauce poured over.
Time. — About \ an hour. Average Cost, uncertain, tench being
seldom offered for sale. Sufficient for 2 or 3 persons. Seasonable from
November to March.
670. — TENCH, BOILED. (Fr.— Tanche Bouilli.)
Ingredients. — 1 tench, \ a pint of anchovy, parsley or piquant sauce
(No. 265), lemon, parsley, salt and pepper.
Method. — Scale and clean the fish thoroughly, and remove the gills.
Rub the inside of the fish with salt, applying it liberally under the
backbone, which should be raised for the purpose. Let it stand for
2 hours, and afterwards rinse the fish well in cold water. Put it into
a saucepan containing just sufficient hot, but not quite boiling, salted
water to cover it, and simmer gently from 15 to 25 minutes, according
to size. Drain well, and serve garnished with sliced lemon and
parsley.
Time. — From 15 to 25 minutes, to boil. Average Cost, uncertain,
tench being seldom offered for sale. Sufficient for 2 or 3 persons,
396 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
671. — TENCH, MARINADED AND BROILED.
( Fr . — Tanche grille.)
Ingredients.— Small tench; to 2 or 3 allow 1 small onion finely-chopped,
2 shallots finely-chopped, 1 dessertspoonful of parsley finely-chopped,
i of a teaspoonful of powdered mixed herbs, 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of
salad-oil, salt and pepper, piquant sauce.
Method. — Wash and clean the fish thoroughly, remove the gills, and
completely cover the fish with boiling water. Let them remain for
5 minutes, then dry and scale them carefully. Place them in a
deep dish, add a good seasoning of salt and pepper, and the onion,
shallot, parsley, herbs and salad-oil. Allow the tench to lie for 2
hours, meanwhile basting frequently with the marinade, and then
drain well. Have ready some pieces of well-oiled foolscap of suitable
size, enclose each fish separately, and broil it over a clear fire for 10 or
15 minutes, according to size. When done, remove the papers and
serve the fish with the piquant sauce poured over.
Time. — About 2\ hours. Average Cost, uncertain, tench being seldom
offered for sale. Allow 1 for each person.
The Tench (Fr. tanche). — This fish generally inhabits stagnant and weedy waters, and rivers and
ponds abounding in rushes. It thrives best in standing waters, and is found more frequently in
pools and ponds, where it feeds on refuse vegetable matter, than in running streams. Tench taken
from the latter are preferable for the table, the flavour being superior ; those captured where the
mud is foul have usually a bad taste if cooked immediately, but this may be obviated by placing
the fish when caught in clear water. The tench is very tenacious of life, and may be preserved or
carried for a long distance covered in damp weeds. In colour this fish is a greenish-olive above,
and of a light tint below. It spawns in May and June. The flesh of the tench is somewhat coarse
and insipid The tench is a member of the carp family, and is frequently placed in ponds with carp.
672. — TENCH, MATELOT OF. (Fr.— Tanche en
Matelote.)
Ingredients. — 3 tench, 12 sauce oysters, 1 pint of good stock, £ of a
pint of port wine or claret, 1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, 1 tablespoonful
of finely-chopped onion, 12 button mushrooms, a bouquet-garni
(parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 2 cloves, 1 blade of mace, 1 teaspoonful
of anchovy-essence, 1 dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, salt and pepper,
cayenne.
Method. — Wash, clean and scale the fish, and cut each into 2 or 3
pieces. Put the stock, onion, bouquet-garni, mushrooms, cloves,
mace, with a good pinch of cayenne, into a shallow stewpan. Simmer
gently for 20 minutes, then put in the fish, cover closely, and simmer
gently for % an hour. Meanwhile blanch the oysters in their own
liquor, remove the beards, cut each oyster in two, and strain the liquor
into the stewpan. Melt the butter in another stewpan, add the flour,
and cook it for 4 or 5 minutes. When the fish is ready, remove it
carefully to a hot dish, strain the sauce over the flour and butter, and
RECIPES FOR COOKING FISH
397
stir until smooth. Add to it the mushrooms, lemon-juice, and wine,
season to taste, simmer for 2 or 3 minutes, then put in the oysters,
and pour the sauce over the fish.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, uncertain. Sufficient for 6 or 7
persons. Seasonable from November to March.
Note. — Tench may also be plainly boiled or baked.
673. — TROUT, BAKED. ( Fr . — Truite rotie au four.)
Ingredients. — 2 trout, veal forcemeat ( see forcemeats), 3 ozs. of butter,
1 oz. of flour, 1 dessertspoonful of capers, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-
juice, \ a teaspoonful of anchovy-essence, pepper and salt.
Method. — Clean, scale, empty, and dry the fish. Make the forcemeat
as directed, put it inside the trout, and sew up the openings. Place
the fish in a baking-tin or dish with 2 ozs. of butter, and bake in a
moderate oven for about \ an hour, basting frequently. Fry the flour
and the rest of the butter together ; and when the fish is ready remove
it to a hot dish, and strain the liquor in the baking-dish on to the flour
and butter. Stir until it boils and becomes smooth, then add the capers,
lemon-juice, anchovy-essence, and season to taste. Simmer for 2 or
3 minutes, then pour over the fish, ant serve.
Time. — 1 hour, altogether. Average Cost, is. to 2s. per lb. Sufficient
for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable from February to September.
674. — TROUT, BOILED. ( Fr . — Truite bouillie.)
Ingredients. — 2 medium-sized trout, of a pint of melted butter,
(N1.202), 1 tablespoonful of coarsely-chopped gherkin, salt and pepper.
Method. — Empty and wash the trout, barely cover them with
hot, but not quite boiling, salted water, and simmer gently from 10
to 12 minutes, according to size. Have the sauce ready, add the
gherkin, season to taste, pour over the fish, and serve.
Time. — From 10 to 12 minutes. Average Cost, is. to 2s. per lb.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
675. — TROUT, FILLETED AND FRIED.
(Fr — Filets de Truite frites.)
Ingredients. — 2 medium-sized trout, 1 level tablespoonful of flour,
\ a teaspoonful of salt, \ a saltspoonful of pepper, egg and breadcrumbs,
frying-fat, lemon and parsley for garnish, anchovy, shrimp or tomato
sauce ( see Sauces).
Method. — Wash, clean and thoroughly dry the fish, split them down
the back, and remove the bone. Mix the flour, salt and pepper
together, cover each piece of fish lightly with the mixture, and
afterwards brush it over with egg and coat carefully with bread-
398
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
crumbs. Have ready a deep pan of fat, and fry the fish until lightly
browned and crisp. Drain well, garnish with sliced lemon and parsley,
and serve the sauce separately.
Time. — To fry, 5 or 6 minutes. Average Cost, is. to 2s. per lb.
Seasonable from February to September. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
676. — TROUT, FILLETS OF, WITH TOMATO SAUCE.
(Fr. — Filets de Truite a la Tomate.)
Ingredients. — 1 or 2 trout, 1+ ozs. of butter, 2 shallots finely -chopped,
J- a teaspoonful of parsley finely -chopped, j of a teaspoonful of powdered
mixed herbs, salt and pepper, of a pint of hot tomato sauce, No. 281.
Method. — Prepare the trout as directed in the preceding recipe, and
place the fillets in a baking-dish, in which the butter has been previously
melted. Season liberally with salt and pepper, add the shallots,
parsley and herbs, and cover closely with a greased paper. Cook
gently for about 20 minutes, then transfer the fish to a hot dish, pour
the prepared sauce over, and serve.
Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, is. to 2s. per lb. Seasonable
from February to September.
677. — TROUT, STEWED. ( Fr . — Truite au Vin Rouge.)
Ingredients. — 2 good-sized trout, {■ an onion thinly sliced, a little
parsley, 2 cloves, 1 blade of mace, 2 bay-leaves, a little thyme,
salt and pepper to taste, 1 pint of stock, No. 5 or 7, 1 glass of claret or
port wine, 1 oz. each of butter and flour.
Method. — Wash the fish very clean, and wipe it quite dry. Lay it
in a stewpan, with all the ingredients but the butter and flour, and
simmer gently for \ an hour. While the fish is cooking, melt the butter
in a stewpan, stir in the flour, and cook for 4 or 5 minutes. When
ready, place the fish on a hot dish, strain the liquor over the flour and
butter, and stir until it boils and becomes smooth. Season to taste,
pour over the fish, and serve.
Time. — 40 minutes. Average Cost, is. to 2s. per lb. Sufficient for 5
or 6 persons. Seasonable from February to September, but in the
best condition in August.
The Trout (Fr. truite), the name given to various species of the Salmonidae, or salmon family
especially to the common trout ( Salmo fario), which abounds in many of the rivers, lakes and clear
running streams of Britain and northern Europe. The colour of the trout is yellowish-brown above
varied with reddish-brown, and crimson spots on the lateral line ; the abdomen is silvery-white, while a
rich golden-yellow extends along the under part of the sides. The flesh and tint of the trout vary
in different localities. In weight, the common trout averages about i lb. Towards the end of Sep-
tember trout quit the deep water to which they have retired in the hot weather — the trout is very
partial to shady nooks — for the purpose of spawning on the gravelly bottoms of rivers or streams.
During the spawning season trout become soft and unwholesome as food. Other species of trout are
the Lochleven trout peculiar to that loch, of larger dimensions than the common trout, and forming
a distinct species ; the Great Lake trout, common in some of the large lakes of England and Ireland,
sometimes attaining to a considerable size and weight — in colour it is dark-brown, with a purple tint ;
and the salmon trout, which, like the salmon, migrates to the sea and returns to spawn in the rivers.
RECIPES FOR COOKING FISH
399
678. — TURBOT WITH AUBERGINES. (Fr.— Turbot
aux Aubergines.)
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of turbot (middle cut), 2 ozs. of butter, the juice
of \ a lemon, 1 tablespoonful finely-chopped parsley, 1 dessertspoonful
of meat glaze, 3 aubergines, salt and pepper, flour, milk, olive-oil, and
clarified butter.
Method. — Remove the dark skin from the fish, free it from bones,
and cut it into 6 or 8 even-sized slices. Trim these neatly, season with
salt and pepper, dip them into milk, and then into flour. Melt about
i-J- ozs. of butter in a saute-pan, place in the fillets of turbot, cover with
a buttered paper, and cook in the oven for 15 minutes, or longer if
needed, basting the fish frequently. Remove the skin from the
aubergines, cut them into slices, dip them in flour, and fry a
golden-brown in a frying-pan containing olive-oil and clarified butter
in equal proportions. Drain them and season with salt. Dress the
turbot on an oblong dish, sprinkle over the lemon-juice, then the
parsley, and lastly some nut-brown clarified butter. Garnish with the
fried aubergines. Just before serving sprinkle the previously heated
meat glaze over the fish.
Time. — About \ hour. Average Cost, 3s. 6d. to 4s. 6d. Sufficient for
6 or 7 persons. Seasonable at any time.
679. — TURBOT, BAKED FILLETS OF. (Fr.— Filets
de Turbot au Gratin.)
Ingredients. — The remains of cold turbot, lobster sauce left from the
preceding day, egg and breadcrumbs, cayenne and salt to taste, minced
parsley, nutmeg, lemon-juice.
Method. — After having cleared the fish from all skin and bone, divide
it into square pieces of an equal size ; brush them over with egg, sprinkle
with breadcrumbs mixed with a little minced parsley and seasoning. Lay
the fillets in a baking-dish, with sufficient butter to baste them with.
Bake for 15 minutes, and keep the fillets well moistened with butter,
add a little lemon-juice and grated nutmeg to the cold lobster sauce ;
make it hot, and pour over the fish, which must be well drained from
the butter. Garnish with parsley and cut lemon.
Time. — From 30 to 40 minutes. Seasonable at any time.
Note. — Cold turbot thus warmed in the remains of lobster sauce will be
found much nicer than if the fish were put again in water.
680. — TURBOT, BOILED. (Fr.— Turbot bouilli.)
Ingredients. — 1 medium-sized turbot, salt and pepper.
Method. — Empty and wash the fish, trim the fins, but do not cut
them off, as the gelatinous parts about them are esteemed a great
delicacy. Make an incision down the middle of the back, to lessen
400
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
the possibility of the skin on the white side cracking ; and rub the white
side of the fish with a cut lemon to increase its whiteness. Have ready
the turbot-kettle, with as much hot water as will cover the fish, add
salt to taste, put in the fish, bring gradually to near boiling point, then
simmer very gently from 15 to 20 minutes. Garnish with lobster
coral, parsley, and cut lemon, and serve with Hollandaise, anchovy,
shrimp or lobster sauce.
Time. — 15 to 20 minutes, after the water boils. Average Cost, 7s. 6d.
to 15s. Sufficient for 8 or 10 persons. Seasonable at any time.
The Turbot (Fr. turbot) is the most highly-esteemed, and, next to the halibut, the largest of the
flat-fish found on the British coasts. It frequently attains a very large size weighing from 50 lb.
to 90 lb. The North Sea and the south-eastern coasts of England are the principal fishery grounds
for turbot. The flesh of the turbot is firm, white, and gelatinous, and is improved by being kept
a day cr two before being cooked. Halibut is frequently sold for turbot ; the two fish are, however,
sufficiently distinct, the upper parts of the former being quite smooth and covered with oblong soft
scales, which firmly adhere to the body, while those of the turbot are marked with large, unequal,
and obtuse tubercles.
681. — TURBOT WITH CREAM SAUCE. (Fr.— Turbot
a la Creme.)
Ingredients. — The remains of cold turbot, \\ ozs. of butter, i oz. of
flour, \ a pint of milk, 3 tablespoonfuls of cream, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-
juice, a pinch of ground mace, salt and pepper, cayenne.
Method. — Remove the bones and skin from the fish, and separate
it into large flakes. Melt the butter in a stewpan,add the flour, and cook
for 5 minutes ; then pour in the milk, stir until it boils, and let it after-
wards simmer gently for 10 minutes. Strain and return to the stew-
pan, put in the fish, and let it become thoroughly hot, then add the
lemon-juice, cream, and seasoning to taste, and serve.
Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, 5d. or 6d., exclusive of the
fish. Seasonable at any time.
682. — TURBOT WITH ITALIAN SAUCE, FILLETS OF.
( Fr . — Filets de Turbot a l’ltalienne.)
Ingredients. — The remains of cold turbot, Italian sauce (No. 252).
Method. — Clear the fish carefully from the bone, and take away all
the skin, which gives an unpleasant flavour to the sauc?. Make the
sauce hot, lay in the fish to warm through, but do not let it boil. Garnish
with croutons.
Time. — 5 minutes. Seasonable all the year.
683. — TURBOT AU GRATIN.
Ingredients. — Remains of cold turbot, Bechamel ( see Sauces), or any
good white sauce, breadcrumbs, butter.
Method. — Cut the flesh of the turbot into small dice, carefully freeing
it from all skin and bone. Put the dice into a stewpan, and moisten
with 4 or 5 tablespoonfuls of Bechamel sauce. Let it get thoroughly
FISH,
RECIPES FOR COOKING FISH
401
hot but do not allow it to boil. Spread the mixture on a dish, cover
with finely-grated browned breadcrumbs, and place small pieces of
butter over the top. Brown it in the oven, or with a salamander.
Time. — Altogether, \ an hour. Seasonable at any time.
684.— TURBOT WITH WINE, PAUPIETTES OF.
(Fr. — Paupiettes de Turbot au Vin Blanc.)
Ingredients. — 2\ to 3 lb. of turbot, \ a lb. of whiting forcemeat,
(No. 415), 1 shallot, a sprig of parsley, 6 preserved mushrooms, 3 to
4 ozs. of butter, 2 small glasses of Chablis or Sauterne, i f- gills of stock,
Jr a pint of Veloute or Allemande sauce, -J- a gill of double cream,
\ a lemon, pepper and salt.
Method. — Remove the fillets from the bones of the fish, pare off the
white and the black skin, flatten each piece with a wet cutlet-bat,
and cut into convenient and even-sized fillets about the same size as
fillets of soles. Flatten each fillet again, trim neatly and season with
pepper and salt. Chop very finely the peeled shallot, the parsley and
the mushrooms, and mix these with the forcemeat ; spread the mixture
on one side of each prepared fillet, and roll up neatly. Butter some
strips of white paper, and roll up each fillet in paper. Arrange the
fillets closely in an upright position in a deep saute-pan, containing
about 3 ozs. of melted butter; place the lid on the pan, cook for a few
minutes in the oven; then add the wine and the stock, and finish
cooking in the oven until done. Baste occasionally with the liquor.
As soon as the fillets are done take them up, drain, remove the paper
bands, dish up in a pyramidal form, and keep them hot. Add the
white sauce to the fish liquor, reduce well, strain, and finish with
cream. Add a few drops of lemon-juice, pour over the fish, and serve
hot.
Time. — To cook, about 20 minutes. Average Cost, 5s. 6d. to 6s. 6d.
Sufficient for 8 or 9 persons. Seasonable at any time.
685.— WATER SOUCHET.
Ingredients.— Flounders, plaice, soles, parch or tench, parsley, salt,
pepper.
Mel hod. — Any of the above-named fish will be found suitable. Wash
and clean the fish, put it into a stewpan with just sufficient cold water
to cover it, add a small bunch of parsley and salt to taste. Cook
gently until done, then transfer the fish carefully to a deep dish or
tureen, sprinkle over it 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, strain
and add the liquor, then serve. Brown bread and butter should be
handed round.
402
Household management
686. — WATER SOUCHET. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — Plaice, flounders or perch, parsley and parsley-roots,
salt.
Method. — Wash and trim the fish, put the trimmings and 2 or 3 fish
into a stewpan with 1 quart of water, a little salt, parsley, and a few
parsley-roots. Simmer until all is quite tender, then pass through a
sieve and return to the stewpan. Cook the remaining fish slowly in
the liquor, and when done, lift out carefully into a deep dish, add 1
teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, strain the liquor over, then serve.
687. WHITEBAIT. (Fr. — Blanchailles. )
Ingredients.— Whitebait, ice, flour, cayenne, salt, frying fat.
Method. — The frying of whitebait is a most difficult task for cooks
with little experience. The following is a well-tried method which,
if carefully followed, never fails to produce satisfactory results : Put
the whitebait with a piece of ice in a basin, which must be kept on the
ice. When required for cooking, spread the fish on a cloth to drain,
then sprinkle a clean cloth with flour, put a small quantity of whitebait
on this, sprinkle over some more flour, fold the cloth and shake it well,
holding the ends of the cloth with both hands. Turn the contents
into a wire drying basket, and shake it so as to get rid of the superfluous
flour. Plunge the basket into a pan of clean, very hot lard, and fry
rapidly over a bright fire for 3 or 4 minutes. Keep moving the basket
all the time the frying goes on. Take up the basket, shake it so as to
strain off the fat, and turn the fish on to a cloth or paper. Repeat
this until all the whitebait are fried. Season with cayenne or black
pepper, and fine salt. Dish up on a folded napkin or lace paper, and
send the fish to table accompanied with quarters of lemon and thin
slices of brown bread and butter.
Time. — From 3 to 4 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. per quart. Season-
able from January to September.
Whitebait (Fr. blanchaille) . This diminutive fish, considered a great delicacy on account of the
tenderness and sweetness of its flesh, is allied to the herring, and was formerly thought to be the young
of that fish, but the shape of its body is more compressed. It is of a pale silvery hue, and greenish
on the back, and varies in length from 2 ins. to 5 ins. The whitebait is caught during the spring
and summer in the estuary of the Thames, in the Clyde, and other rivers. The “ Whitebait Dinner ”
of the members of the Cabinet, just before the prorogation of Parliament, at the Trafalgar, Green-
wich, was an annual custom of some standing, but it is now discontinued.
688. — WHITING, BAKED. (Fr.— Merlan au Gratin.)
( See Sole au Gratin, No. 653, use skimmed whiting, and proceed in
the same manner.)
689. — WHITING WITH SWEET HERBS, BAKED.
(Fr. — Merlan aux Fines Herbes.)
(See Sole with Fine Herbs, No. 654.)
RECIPES FOR COOKING FISH
403
690. — WHITING, BOILED. (Fr. — Merlan bouilli.)
Ingredients. — Whiting, salt.
Method. — Clean the fish, but do not skin them. Have ready sufficient
warm water to cover them, salt it slightly, put in the fish, bring gently
to the boil, and simmer for 7 or 8 minutes (if small). Drain well,
serve on a folded napkin, garnish with parsley, and serve with a suitable
sauce.
Time. — 7 or 8 minutes for small whiting. Average Cost, 3d. to 9d. each.
Allow 1 small whiting for each person. Seasonable all the year, but
best from October to March.
The Whiting (Fr. merlan). — This well-knovra fish belongs to the cod family, but is destitute of
the barbule seen in the cod and haddock. Its flesh is the most delicate and palatable of any fish of
its tribe. The body of the whiting is compressed, and the upper jaw projects beyond the lower.
It is a smaller fish, and of a more elegant shape than the haddock ; its average weight is ij lb. The
whiting is caught in abundance on the British coasts and in the northern European seas.
691.— WHITING, BROILED. (Fr.— Merlan Grille.)
Ingredients. — Whiting, a little oil or butter.
Method. — Wash, and thoroughly dry the fish. Brush them over
with a little oil or melted butter, and broil over a clear-fire.
Time. — From 6 to 8 minutes, for a small whiting. Average Cost, 3d-
to 9d. each. Allow, 1 small whiting for each person. Seasonable
all the year.
To Choose Whiting. — Choose for the firmness of its flesh, and the silvery hue of its appearance.
The Pollack (Fr. Merlan). — Like the pout, the pollack bears a strong resemblance to the
whiting. It is a gregarious fish and swims in shoals, and is caught off the coasts of Britain, chiefly
around the northern parts. The flesh of the pollack is good eating. It is also known as the “ coal-
fish,” and in Scotland it bears the local name of “ Lythe.”
692.— WHITING, FRIED. (Fr. — Merlan Frit.)
Ingredients. — 2 whiting, 1 egg, breadcrumbs, flour, salt, pepper,
frying-fat or oil.
Method. — Wash, clean, and dry the fish, and remove their skins,
and fasten the tail in the mouth by means of a small skewer. Mix
a teaspoonful of flour with salt and pepper, and rub it well into
the fish ; then brush them over with egg, coat them with breadcrumbs,
and fry until nicely browned in hot fat. Serve on a fish paper, garnished
with crisply-fricd parsley.
Time. — To fry, 6 or 7 minutes. Average Cost, 3d. to 9d. each. Suffi-
cient, 1 small whiting for each person. Seasonable all the year, but best
from October to March.
The Pout (Fr. Lamproie). also known as the Bib is found about the mouth of the Thames, and gener-
ally around the British coasts, as well as in the northern seas. It bears a striking resemblance to the
whiting, and is frequently called the Whiting Pout, The pout is esteemed as an excellent table-fish.
GENERAL REMARKS ON
COOKING MEAT
CHAPTER XIII
Instructions for Roasting, Boiling, Baking, Stewing,
Braising and Frying.
The Probability is that the Human Race lor a long period in the early
history of mankind lived upon roots, fruits, raw fish, shell-fish, birds’
eggs, small reptiles, and insects. When man acquired the art of fashion-
ing weapons from the flints which he wrought into arrow-heads, spear-
points, and axes, he was enabled to chase and slay the animals around
him, and thus obtain raw meat. A survival of this custom is seen
in the name of the Eskimo, from the appellation Eskimantsic, or
“ raw-flesh-eaters,” given to them by the native tribes of New England,
and retained in the French form of the word Esquimaux. Bows and
arrows have been found among the natives of all climates and latitudes,
but their use indicates an advancement in civilization reached only
during many centuries. The early period of man’s existence is divided
into four epochs or ages, not implying, however, that these epochs were
simultaneously reached by all the inhabitants of the globe in their
progress towards civilization, for there are still races in their stone age.
The first epoch is the Paleolithic, or old stone age, when the implements
fashioned by man were sharp chipped flints. To this succeeded the
Neolithic, or new stone age, characterized by polished stone imple-
ments, and the domestication of animals. Next followed the Bronze age,
with its weapons and articles of that metal, and lastly the Iron age, with
* its gradual development and progress in the arts and manufactures.
The successive stages through which man has advanced to civiliza-
tion may also be classified in three divisions : Savage, Barbarous, and
Civilized. The first is represented by the savage of the South American
forests, who lives on wild plants and animals ; the second by the
African, who tills the ground and domesticates animals for his use;
the third by the civilized European, associated with all that the word
civilization denotes, of moral, intellectual, social, and material de-
velopment.
The duration of the Paleolithic Age cannot be determined. Un-
polished stone implements, bone, and horn have been found associated
with the bones and teeth of the mammoth, or woolly-haired elephant,
104
GENERAL REMARKS ON COOKING MEAT 405
the cave-bear, and other wild animals long extinct, in the old drift
gravels of the glacial period, which was passing away in Europe
thousands of years before the Neolithic Age began, and it is even
possible that the existence of man may date from a still earlier pre-
glacial period.
The Discovery of Fire is lost in the dim ages of antiquity. No savage
tribe has been found so low in the scale of being as to be without
its possession ; even among the relics found of man’s existence during
the mammoth period, fragments of charcoal and burnt bones have
been discovered. The methods pursued by savage races for producing
fire are by the friction of one piece of wood against another, by the
use of a fire-drill, consisting of a pointed stick, which is revolved rapidly
in a hole made in a piece of wood, or by means of a species of bow-drill.
The Brahmins at the present day produce the fire for their daily sacrifice
by this primitive method. Later, the old fire-drill was improved
upon by the flint and steel ; and now the safety match in common
use provides a ready means of kindling a fire or producing a light.
Of such value is the possession of fire to man for warmth, cook-
ing his food and other purposes, that the ancient Greeks in their
mythology ascribed its origin to the gods, from whom Prometheus,
the brother of Atlas, stole it, concealed in a tube. By the Parsis, the
adherents of the ancient religion of Persia or Zoroastrianism, fire is
regarded as the emblem of the Divine power, and its worship forms a
part of their religious ritual.
Fire having been discovered, mankind endeavoured to make use of it
for drying and afterwards for cooking their meat ; but for ages the
methods and appliances employed in the preparation of food were of
the crudest description. Meat brought in actual contact with fire is
apt to become smoked, and have an unpleasant flavour. This dis-
advantage was remedied by passing spits through it, and placing it a
suitable height above the burning fuel. Thus grilling was invented ;
and simple as is this mode of cookery, yet all meat cooked in this way
is richly and pleasantly flavoured. In Homer’s time the art of cookery had
not advanced much beyond the method of roasting, for we read in the
“ Iliad ” how the hero Achilles and his friend Patroclus regaled the three
Grecian leaders on bread, wine, and broiled meat. It is noticeable, too,
that Homer does not speak of boiled meat anywhere in his poems. We
read in the Scriptures, of Sarah cooking her cakes on the hearth ; and in
the ceremonial law given to the ancient Jews, they were distinctly direc-
ted to bring cakes “ baked in the oven.” The term “ oven ” may have
been applied to a kind of pot, sometimes called “ kail-pot,” which was
used by the Egyptians for cooking ; it was a vessel completely closed,
and when in use was buried bodily in hot ashes. The tripod and
cauldron is the earliest cooking apparatus on record. The former
consisted of three rods of iron or hard wood fastened together at the
top, at which point was inserted an iron hook to hold the handle of the
cauldron.
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
406
Methods of Cooking Meat. — Roasting, baking, boiling, stewing, braising,
frying and grilling are the usual methods of cooking animal food. To
explain the philosophy of these simple operations, we must notice
the effects that are produced by heat on the principal constitutents
of flesh. When finely chopped, mutton or beef is soaked for some time
in a small quantity of water, and then subjected to slight pressure,
the juice of the meat is extracted, and there is left a white, tasteless
residue, consisting chiefly of muscular fibre. When this residue is
heated to between 180° and 200° F., the fibres shrink together, and
become hard and horny. The influence of a higher temperature on
the soluble extracts is not less remarkable. When the watery infusion
which contains the nutritive constituents of the meat is gradually
heated, it soon becomes turbid, and, when the temperature reaches
about 1600, flakes of whitish matter separate. These flakes are albu-
min, a substance precisely similar in all its properties to the white of
egg. When the temperature of the watery extract is raised to 158°,
the colouring matter of the blood coagulates, and the liquid, which was
originally tinged red by this substance, is left perfectly clear, and1
almost colourless. When evaporated, even at a gentle heat, this
residual liquid gradually becomes brown, and acquires the flavour of
roast meat. The fibres of meat are surrounded by a liquid which
contains albumin in its soluble state, just as it exists in the unboiled
egg. During the operation of boiling or roasting this substance coagu-
lates. The tenderness of well-cooked meat is consequently propor-
tioned to the amount of heat employed, and the slight or complete
coagulation of the albumin deposited in its substance. Meat is done
when it has been heated throughout only to the temperature of coagu-
lating albumin, provided the heat is continued long enough ; it is
thoroughly done when it has been heated through its whole mass to
the temperature at which the colouring matter of the blood coagulates ;
it is overdone when the heat has been continued long enough to harden
the fibres.
During the operations of Boiling, Roasting and Baking, fresh beef and
mutton, when moderately fat, according to Johnston, lose, on an average
about : —
In Boiling. In Baking. In Roasting.
4 lb. of beef lose 1 lb. ... 1 lb. 3 ozs. .. 1 lb. 5 ozs.
4 lb. of mutton lose 14 ozs. . . 1 lb. 4 ozs. . . 1 lb. 6 ozs.
More recent experiments also show that animal matter loses more
weight by roasting than by boiling. In roasting, the loss arises from
the melting out of the fat and evaporation of water ; but the nutritious
matter remains condensed in the cooked meat, whereas, in boiling, the
gelatin is partly abstracted. Roast meats are therefore more nutritious
than boiled meats ; but in consequence of the chemical decomposition
of the fat of roast meats, due to a long continued exposure to an intense
heat, they are less easily digested.
GENERAL REMARKS ON COOKING MEAT 407
Roasting. — In roasting, the joint must be suspended where the rays
of heat from the fire may fall directly upon it. In localities where this
excellent and wholesome method of cooking is largely practised, kitchens
are provided with a primitive meat-screen, a three-leaved folding
“ hastener,” lined on the inside with a bright metal which reflects the
heat. Therefore, although roasting may be described as cooking by
radient heat, it is a process in which reflected heat plays a secondary
and by no means unimportant part. By many, roasting is condemned
as an extravagant method of cooking. Undoubtedly meat loses con-
siderably in weight when roasted, but there is no real loss ; the melted
fat remains as dripping ; any meat juice which escapes coagulates and
forms the basis of the gravy, and by the evaporation of water, to which
the greater part of the loss is due, the nutritives of the meat have simply
become more concentrated. The consumption of coal in roasting is
not excessive when the fire is properly built up. Some 30 or 40 minutes
before the fire must be ready, the front of the grate should be filled
with small lumps of coal, and the back with a few lumps mixed with a
considerable quantity of slightly-wetted small coal. As the front
of the fire burns away, the embers from the back can be brought for-
ward, and small coal or cinders put in their place, thus keeping the
front of the fire clear and bright. Immediately the fire is made up the
■ “ hastener,” or meat-screen, should be drawn around it, so that its
surface may become thoroughly hot before the meat is put down to
roast. When the fire is clear and bright the joint shoidd be placed
quite close to it for 10 or 15 minutes ; and as soon as it is put down
it should be well basted with hot dripping, and this greatly assists in
forming an impervious surface through which the juices of the meat
cannot escape. The joint must be frequently basted during the first half-
hour, and afterwards every 10 or 15 minutes. When properly roasted
and sufficiently basted, the joint ought to be nicely browned without
the aid of flour. A little salt and pepper is sometimes sprinkled on
the joint before serving, but it is not necessary. It was considered
an improvement to the gravy when the old custom obtained of pouring
a little over the joint.
It is impossible to fix the exact time required for roasting meat,
because so much depends upon the form and thickness of the joint,
and its age and condition. The general rule is to allow 15 minutes
for each pound of beef and mutton, and 15 minutes over ; and 20
minutes for each pound of veal and pork, and 20 minutes over. Meat
of recently killed beasts requires longer cooking than meat which has
hung for some time ; in warm weather joints require rather less time
for roasting than in cold. A square solid piece of beef will not cook
as quickly as a shoulder of mutton of equal weight ; and rolled and
stuffed meat must be allowed a longer time than if the joints were not
prepared in this manner.
White Meats, and the Meat of Young Animals, require to be very well
408
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
roasted, both to be pleasant to the palate and easy of digestion. Thus
veal, pork and lamb should be thoroughly done to the centre.
Mutton and Beef, on the other hand, do not, generally speaking,
require to be so thoroughly done, and they should be cooked, so
that, in carving them, the gravy will just run, but not too freely.
Of course in this, as in most other cases, the tastes of individuals
vary; and there are many who cannot partake, with satisfaction, of
any joint unless it is what others would call overdressed.
Baking. — Meat baked in the oven has never the same delicious
aromatic flavour as when roasted in front of the fire, but with care
it is possible to have a baked joint with a good flavour and a well-
browned and crisp surface. To preserve the flavour of the meat, it is
absolutely necessary that every part of the oven should be kept scru-
pulously clean. Nothing can brown properly or become crisp in too
moist an atmosphere ; therefore there must be an outlet for the steam
produced by the evaporation of some of the water in the meat ; and
if the construction of the oven does not provide sufficient ventilation,
the door must be kept partly open to allow the steam to escape. To
ensure perfectly satisfactory results, a proper baking-tin must be used.
This consists of a double tin, the upper part being provided with a
grid, on which the meat rests, thus preventing unnecessary contact
with the dripping. The lower tin is filled with water, which prevents
the fat in the upper tin burning, and giving off unpleasant odours
to be absorbed by the meat, and which would spoil its flavour. The
principles of roasting and baking are exactly the same, the object being
in both processes to preserve the nutritive qualities of the meat by
preventing the escape of the juices of the meat. Before putting the
joint in the oven it should be well basted with hot fat, for the reason
already explained in reference to roasting meat. The oven should be
hot for the first io or 15 minutes, in order that the albumin on the
surface of the meat may be quickly coagulated and the juices of
the meat retained. The temperature must then be lowered, or the
meat transferred to a cooler oven, if the stove is provided with two.
The temperature of an oven may be quickly reduced by drawing away
some of the fire, putting in the dampers, or leaving the oven door
open. Frequent basting is as essential in baking as in roasting; it
not only keeps the meat mellow and tender, it also prevents waste by
shrinkage, and by washing off some of the hardened particles it pre-
vents the meat becoming too brown, while at the same time it provides
a deposit to be afterwards converted into good gravy.
The time required for baking meat is the same as for roasting, viz.,
15 minutes to each lb. of beef and mutton, and 15 minutes over ;
and 20 minutes to each lb. of pork and veal, and 20 minutes over, with
the usual allowances for form, condition, stuffing, etc., which common
sense or experience must determine.
Boiling. — Boiling is generally considered one of the most easy and
CATTLE
i. Hereford Steer. 2. Devon Steer.
16
GENERAL REMARKS ON COOKING MEAT 409
simple processes of cookery. Certainly meat cooked in a pot requires
very little attention, and too frequently receives none at all, as is
evidenced by the ragged mutton and hard-flavourless beef to which
the term boiled meat may be correctly applied. Although meat loses
less weight when boiled than when roasted or baked, there is more loss
of nutritive constituents, unless both the meat and the liquor in which
it is cooked be consumed, for certain mineral salts, soluble sub-
stances, and a considerable quantity of gelatin, are abstracted during
the process of cooking, and remain dissolved in the liquor. When
the meat is intended to be eaten, it is desirable that its valuable nutritive
juices should be retained, and this is effected, as in roasting and baking,
by subjecting the joint for a short time to a temperature sufficiently
high to rapidly coagulate the surface albumin, thus forming an im-
pervious envelope which prevents the escape of the internal juices,
and most effectually excludes the water, which, by diluting these
juices, would render the meat insipid. All fresh meat should be
immersed in boiling water for 10 minutes, but at the end of that time
the temperature must be reduced, and the surest and quickest way of
effecting this to to draw the pot aside and add cold water by degrees
until the water in the pot ceases to boil. One pint of cold water would
sufficiently reduce the contents of a large boiling pot. When it is
possible to choose, the one selected should be just large enough to hold
the meat, which must be kept covered with water; hot water being
added to replace that which boils away, in order to maintain an even
temperature. The addition of such vegetables as turnip, carrot,
onion and celery, is a decided improvement to the flavour of the meat,
but they should never be used in sufficiently large quantities to over-
power its natural flavour. Turnip must be always sparingly used,
for it possesses the peculiar property of absorbing the flavour of any
material it comes in contact with, and is often usefully employed for
that purpose. In one respect, boiling is more economical than either
roasting or baking, for when once the right point is reached a very small
fire will maintain the proper temperature. Any heat in excess of this
is wasted, and the benefit of slow progressive cooking is lost. Meat
cooks as quickly at simmering point as if the water surrounding it were
kept in a state of violent ebullition, and with far better results, for
continued application of excessive heat hardens the fibres of the meat,
and renders it tough and indigestible.
The time allowed for boiling meat is from 20 to 25 minutes for each
lb of meat, according to the solidity or thinness of the joint, and the
kind of meat ; pork requires longer boiling than beef or mutton, and
salted meat longer than fresh meat.
Salt Meats. — Salt beef, salt pork, pickled pork, tongues and hams
should always be put into warm water, unless very highly salted, when
they may be put into cold water to extract some of the salt. Smoked
hams and tongues must be soaked in cold water for at least 12 hours
4io
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
before cooking. Any kind of salt meat intended to be served cold
will be more mellow and juicy if allowed to remain in the liquor until
cold ; but this practice cannot be recommended in warm weather
unless the meat will be quickly consumed, for the large amount of
moisture it contains soon renders it unfit for use.
Stewing. — This process of cooking may be defined as “ simmering
in a small quantity of liquid.” Undoubtedly it is the most economical
method of cooking meat, not only on account of the small amount of
fuel required to keep up the gentle simmering, but also because tough,
coarse, inexpensive kinds of meat may, by this long, slow continuous
process, be rendered tender and palatable. There is practically no
loss of nutritive constituents, for everything abstracted from the meat
is contained in the gravy. The fibres of coarse meat should never be
exposed to a higher temperature than i6o° F. ; simmering point is
iSo° F., boiling point, 21 2° F. To cook meat at this comparatively
low temperature it is absolutely necessary that the vessel containing
it should be provided with a lid fitting so closely that the steam cannot
escape ; or failing this, 2 or 3 thicknesses of greased paper must be
placed under the lid. Lean meat alone is suitable for stewing, more
particularly when the liquid is thickened with flour, which prevents
the fat rising to the surface of the liquid. In consequence of not
being able to remove the fat by skimming, stews are apt to disagree
with those who are in the least inclined to dyspepsia ; but when made
of lean meat they are easily digested. A few rough trimmings of
vegetables should be added to flavour the stew; but it is better
to cook the vegetables to be served with it separately, for the low'
temperature at which the meat stews destroys the colour of both
carrots and turnips. When the meat is very coarse its fibres may be
softened either by adding a little vinegar to the stew, or by pouring
a little over the meat and allowing it to soak in it for at least an hour
before cooking. But when the meat is tender if it is quickly fried
on both sides before it is stewed, it has both a better appearance and
flavour.
No definite rule as to time can be given ; stews may be allowed to
cook gently from 4 to 5 hours, but longer cooking usually reduces the
fibres of beef and mutton to a stringy, thread-like mass, so hardened
that they cannot be digested, and consequently afford no nourishment.
Stews cannot cook too slowly ; it is not necessary that there should be
the least ebullition, but there must be sufficient heat applied to evapo-
rate the liquid and fill the vessel with steam, otherwise the meat is not
cooking.
Braising. — This excellent method of cooking is a combination of
roasting and stewing, for when a properly constructed pan is used
heat is applied from above by means of a depressed lid on which
charcoal is burnt. When meat is braised in an ordinary stewpan it is
simply placed on a foundation of vegetables surrounded, but not
GENERAL REMARKS ON COOKING MEAT 411
covered, with stock. The meat does not come in contact with the
liquid, but becomes thoroughly flavoured with the vegetables, and
by long slow cooking in the steam is rendered tender and digestible,
it is then placed in a quick oven and browned and crisped before
serving.
Frying. — From the appended table it will be seen that all fats and
oils do not boil at the same temperature. In ordinary houses ther-
mometers for testing the heat for cooking are not available, but the
table given is instructive without their aid — at least it should make
clear the reason why it is so much more difficult to fry in a small quantity
of butter than in a corresponding amount of fat or oil,
BOILING POINT OF FAT AND OILS
Butter boils at 150° F.
Lard „ 210° ,,
Clarified Fat „ 250° ,,
Oil „ 390-400° „
Many liquids boil at a lower temperature than water (21 20) ; thus
,you may, with impunity, dip your finger in boiling spirits of wine ;
,you would take it very quickly from boiling brandy ; still more rapidly
from water ; whilst the effect of the most rapid immersion in boiling
oil need not be mentioned. As a consequence of this, heated fluids act
differently on the savoury bodies presented to them. A small ball of
butter, thickly coated with egg and breadcrumbs, maybe fried in hot
fat or oil and retain its form, but if dropped into a stewpan of boiling
water it would quickly melt, and mingle with it, because the water would
not be hot enough to immediately coagulate the albumin of the egg
and thus imprison the butter, and effectually exclude the water. Fat
may be heated to a much higher temperature than is necessary for
ordinary frying purposes. Anyone experienced can tell exactly by the
appearance of the fat, and by the amount of blue smoke arising from
it, when the requisite degree of heat is reached. This, of course, varies
considerably ; such things as rissoles and fish cakes, made principally
of cooked materials, need simply browning and heating through, and
consequently may be cooked in very hot fat. But such a preparation
as cheese fritters or raw substances like fillets of fish must be fried in
fat at lower temperature to allow the material to be fully cooked before
the surface becomes too brown. The heat of the fat may be tested by
frying a piece of bread ; if it turns brown immediately the temperature
is suitable for such things as need browning and re-heating, and for
potatoes which require a high degree of heat, owing to the large pro-
portion of water contained in them ; but for raw materials the fat is
sufficiently hot when the bread at once hardens, and acquires a pale
golden-brown colour. It should, however, be remembered that the
introduction of any cold substance immediately lowers the temperature
of the fat; so much so, that after a few minutes the heat under the stew-
412
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
pan may safely be increased. Only a small quantity of anything should
be fried at one time, and the fat must be heated to a proper temperature
before frying a second lot. There are two distinct methods of frying,
known respectively as deep or wet frying, and dry frying.
Deep Frying. — In this process the materials fried must be completely
covered by hot fat. An iron or steel stewpan or saucepan may be
used ; and for such things as rissoles, croquettes, lobster cutlets, fish
cakes, etc., a wire basket or wire drainer is necessary ; fillets of fish are
generally dropped into the hot fat from the fingers, and taken out on a
fish slice. Everything fried should be transferred from the fat to a
sheet of clean paper and thoroughly drained before serving.
Dry Frying. — Meat fried in a shallow pan with a comparatively small
quantity of fat may be rendered hard and indigestible by this process
if the mistake be made of putting the meat into a cold frying-pan, or
into the fat before it is hot enough to coagulate the albumin on its sur-
face. Fillets of beef and veal, and mutton and veal cutlets are gener-
ally cooked in this manner, and with a protective covering of egg and
breadcrumbs they may be subjected to intense heat without hardening
their fibres to an injurious extent. The side to be dished upwards
should be fried first, because the side cooked first invariably presents
a better appearance. The frying should be done rapidly, and the fry-
ing-pan frequently shaken to prevent the contents sticking and burning
to the bottom of it.
Frying-Fat. — For all ordinary purposes clarified fat may be recom-
mended. It is made from beef and mutton suet, cut into small pieces,
and simmered in a little water until all the fat is extracted, and then
strained. 2 lb. of fat are obtained from 3 lb. of suet ; unless the suet
can be bought cheaply, it may be a little more expensive than lard.
Oil is excellent for frying purposes, but it requires more careful handling
than the fats, for unless heated gently over a slow fire, it has a tendency
to rise quickly and boil over. Lard sometimes imparts an unpleasant
flavour, but the chief objection to its use is the fatty odour which lingers
long after the lard has cooled. Frying-fat after being used should,
when cool, be strained. The fat may be used over and over again
until it becomes discoloured, and discoloration may in some measure
be prevented by occasionally boiling the fat in plenty of water for \ an
hour. When slightly cool, both fat and water should be poured into
a basin ; and as soon as the cake of fat is firm all the impurities should
be scraped off the bottom, and the fat melted again to evaporate every
particle of water.
Grilling. — Grilling, or broiling, as it is sometimes termed, is the most
perfect way of cooking chops and steaks. A sharp clear fire is neces-
sary in order that the outside may be quickly hardened, and thus pre-
vent the escape of the juices of the meat. Grilling may be done either
over the fire or before it on a gridiron contrived for the purpose. Any
ordinary gridiron may be used for cooking over the fire ; before being
GENERAL REMARKS ON COOKING MEAT 413
used it should be heated, and its bars well rubbed with paper, and after-
wards with a little fat or suet. Whatever is being grilled must be
repeatedly turned, by means of steak-tongs, or, failing these, a fork
put into the fat of the meat, for if the lean be pierced the juices will
escape through the holes thus made. This cooking process is suited
only to small portions of meat, or kidneys, bones, fish, mushrooms,
tomatoes, etc.
SUMMARY OF GENERAL RULES
(x) One general rule is that meat should never be washed, but there
are at least three exceptions to the rule, viz. : —
(a) When using diluted vinegar or charcoal to remove the taint of
putrefaction.
(b) When meat has been over-salted, and it is necessary to extract
the excess of salt.
(c) Hearts and liver before they are cut into slices : the surface of
both being protected by membranes, immersion in cold water
does not deprive them of their nutritive juice.
(2) In roasting and baking an intense heat must be applied to all
kinds of meat for 10 or 15 minutes, and the temperature afterwards
considerably reduced.
(3) In boiling, fresh meat should be put into boiling water, boiled
rapidly for 10 minutes, and then cold liquid added to reduce the tem-
perature. Immersion in boiling water hardens the fibres of salt meat,
therefore it should be put into warm water, or when too salt, it may be
placed in cold water, which will extract some of the salt, and also a
considerable quantity of the juices of the meat.
(4) In stewing, the process must be long, slow and continuous, the
escape of steam being prevented by a close-fitting lid, and, if
necessary, by intervening layers of greased paper.
(5) In frying, a blue smoke must arise from the fat before it is hot
enough to fry even things which require a comparatively low tempera-
ture. Cold things to be fried must be added to the fat gradually, to
avoid reducing the temperature too suddenly. The fat must always be
re-heated to a proper temperature before putting in a second set of
things to be fried.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS
ON QUADRUPEDS
CHAPTER XIV
General Notes on Mammalia and the different breeds
of Cattle and their characteristics, observations on
veal and beef, and tables of prices and weights of
joints, etc.
The Empire of Nature has been, by general assent, divided into three
great divisions or kingdoms : the first consisting of minerals, the second
of vegetables, and the third of animals. The Mineral Kingdom com-
prises all inorganic objects devoid of life, but having a definite chemical
composition, consisting of either a single element, as silver, or of two
or three of these elements combined, as sodium chloride or common
salt. When not mixed with any other substances, minerals are com-
posed of similar particles, and if they possess a definite shape, are
characterized by the geometric form their crystals assume, although
all minerals are not distinctly crystalline. Minerals enter into the
composition of the rocks, which constitute the solid portion of our
globe, and guard the land against the encroachments of the sea.
The Vegetable Kingdom covers and beautifies the earth with an endless
variety of form and colour. It consists, with some exceptions, of
organic bodies which grow by the assimilation of inorganic sub-
stances, as water, carbonic acid, and ammonia, forming out of these
organic complex substances, as sugar, starch, cellulose, etc. In the
process of digestion plants break up carbonic acid into its two elements
of oxygen and carbon, setting free the former which is required for
the sustenance of animal life, and retaining the carbon necessary for
vegetable life. The higher orders of plants are chiefly nourished by
means of roots, breathe by the medium of leaves, and are propagated
by seeds.
The Animal Kingdom in its lower types is closely allied to
the Vegetable Kingdom, both of these constituting the organic
series of natural objects. The bodies of each are composed of proto-
plasm, the basis of all life, a substance formed of carbon, hydrogen,
nitrogen and oxygen. The nature and method of assimilating their
food is the only means by which the distinction between plants and
animals in their lowest forms car be clearly determined : the former
subsisting on inorganic, and the latter on organic, matter.
In the case of the higher animals and plants, it is easy to assign any
individual to its proper place in Nature, but it is almost impossible
m
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON QUADRUPEDS 415
to fix the precise limits of the types which connect the two great King-
doms together, and to determine where vegetable life ends and animal
life begins. In respect of form, internal structure, power of motion,
they closely resemble each other as in the case of the diatomaceae
and desmidiae, two of the lower order of miscroscopic plants, and the
sea-anemones, sea-mats, sponges, corals, etc. Like the Vegetable
Kingdom, animals are limited to certain areas by the conditions of
climate and soil, the environment of an animal determining its de-
velopment and survival. There are various systems of classification
of animals. Linnaeus divided them into six great classes : Mammalia,
Birds, Fishes, Amphibious Animals, Insects and Worms. Cuviers’
more scientific arrangement comprised the four sub-Ivingdoms, Verte-
brata, Mollusca, Articulata, and Radiata. The classifications of more
recent times have been largely determined by the consideration of the
forms of animals as influenced by evolution, and the facts of heredity
and adaptation to their environment. The late Professor Huxley
divided the Animal Kingdom into the sub-Kingdoms, Vertebrata,
Annuloda, Annuloida, Coelenterata, Infusoria, and Protozoa.
MAMMALIA
This class of animals comprises all the ordinary quadrupeds, and
includes all those vertebrate animals in which some part or other of the
skin, during some portion of life, is provided with hair, and whose young
are nourished for a longer or shorter period by means of a special fluid-
milk, secreted by special glands. The mammalia have warm blood, i.e.,
blood the normal temperature of which is usually retained in any atmo-
sphere. Among the mammalia are classed the whales, dolphins and
porpoises, whose bodies are particularly adapted for aquatic life, and, who
like the rest of the class, nourish their young by their milk. The heart
of mammals is similar to that of birds, and has four distinct chambers,
two auricles and two ventricles, and respiration is carried on by means
of two lungs situated in the chest cavity.
The following are the general characteristics of the Mammalia.
As noticed above, the bodies of nearly the whole class are covered
with hair — a kind of clothing which is both soft and warm, little liable
to injury, and bestowed in proportion to the necessities of the animal,
the climate of the country it inhabits, and the nature of its environ-
ment. In all the higher orders of animals, the head is the principal
seat of the organs of sense. In it are placed the eyes, the ears, the
nose, and the mouth. Through the last they receive their nourishment.
The mouth contains the teeth, which, in most of the mammalia, are
used not only for the mastication of food, but also as weapons of
defence. They are inserted into two movable jaws, and
the front teeth or incisors are so placed that their sharp edges may
easily be brought in contact with the food, in order that its fibres may
416
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
readily be separated. Next to these, on each side, are situated the
canine teeth or tusks, which are longer than the other teeth, and being
pointed are specially adapted lor tearing food. In the back of the jaws
are placed another form of teeth, called molars, or grinders. Their
use is to masticate the food ; in animals that live on vegetables
the molars are flattened at the top ; but in the carnivora, their upper
surfaces are furnished with sharp-pointed protuberances. The num-
bers, form, and disposition of the teeth constitute most important
characteristics for separating the various orders of the mammalia
from one another. The nose is a cartilaginous body, pierced with two
holes, which are called nostrils. Through these the animal is affected
by the sense of smell ; in some animals this organ is prominent, whilst
in others it is flat, compressed, turned upwards, or bent downwards.
In beasts of prey the nose is frequently longer than the lips ; and in
some other animals, as the elephant, it is elongated into a movable
trunk or proboscis, whilst in the rhinoceros it is armed with a horn.
The eyes of quadrupeds are generally defended by movable lids, on the
outer margins of which are fringes of hair called eyelashes. The open-
ing of the pupil is in general circular ; but in some species, as in those
of the cat and hare, it is contracted into a perpendicular line ; in the
horse, the ox, and a few others, it forms a transverse bar. The ears
are openings, generally accompanied with a cartilage which defends
and covers them, called the external ear. In aquatic animals the
latter are wanting, sound being transmitted merely through orifices
in the head, which have the name of auditory holes. The most de-
fenceless animals are extremely delicate in the sense of hearing, as
are also most beasts of prey. Most of the mammiferous animals walk
on their toes, which at the extremities are usually divided into five
digits. In some, however, the feet end in a single corneous substance,
called a hoof. The toes of a few of the mammalia end in broad flat
nails, and of most others in pointed claws. Those that are destined
to pass a considerable portion of their lives in water have the toes
connected by a membrane. Others again, as in the bat,
have the digitations of the anterior feet greatly elongated, the
intervening space being filled by a membrane, which extends round
the hinder legs and tail, by means of which they are enabled to
rise into the air. In man, the hand comprises fingers separate
free and flexible ; but apes and some other kinds of animals, have
fingers both to the hands and feet. These, therefore, are the only
animals that can hold moveable objects in a single hand. Others,
such as rats and squirrels, have the fingers sufficiently small and flexible
to enable them to pick up objects, but they are compelled to hold
them in both hands. Others, again, have the toes shorter, and must
rest on the hind-feet, as is the case with dogs and cats when they want
to hold a substance firmly on the ground with their paws. There
are still others that have their toes united and drawn under the skin
SH ORT H OR fH
w
N
M
&
Pu
<5
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON QUADRUPEDS 417
or enveloped in corneous hoofs, and thereby cannot exercise any pre-
hensile power.
According to the Design and End of Nature, mammiferous animals are
adapted, when arrived at maturity, to subsist on various kinds of food-
some to live wholly upon flesh, others upon grain, herbs or fruits ;
but in their infant state, milk constitutes the natural food of the whole.
That this food may never fail them, it is ordained that the young
should no sooner come into the world than the milk should flow
in abundance into the organs with which the mother is supplied for the
secretion of that nutritious fluid. By a wonderful instinct of Nature,
the young animal, almost as soon as it has come into life, searches for
the teat, and knows perfectly at the first how, by the process of suction,
to extract the fluid necessary to its existence. To man the lower
animals are useful in various ways. Some of their bodies afford him
food, their skin shoes, and their fleece clothes. Some of them unite
with him in sharing the dangers of combat with an enemy, and
others assist him in the chase, in exterminating wilder sorts, or banish-
ing them from the haunts of civilization. Many, indeed, are injurious
to him ; but the greater number, in some shape or other, he turns
to his service. Of these, there is none more subservient to his purposes
than the common ox, for there is scarcely a part of this creature that
man has not been able to convert to some useful purpose. Of the
horns he makes drinking vessels, knife-handles, combs and boxes ;
and when they are softened by means of boiling water, he fashions them
into transparent plates for lanterns, etc. Glue and gelatine are made
of cartilages, gristles, and the finer pieces of the parings and cuttings
of hides. Their bone is a cheap substitute for ivory. The thinnest
calf-skins are manufactured into vellum. Their blood is made
the basis of Prussian blue, and saddlers use a fine sort of thread pre-
pared from their sinews. Their hair is valuable in various manu-
factures ; their suet, fat and tallow are moulded into candles ; while
the muscular tissues of the carcass constitute beef, and the milk and
cream of the cow yield butter and cheese. Thus is every part of
this animal valuable to man, who has spared no pains to bring it to
the highest state of perfection.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON CATTLE.
Cattle, like sheep, belong to the order Ruminantia and to the
same hollow-horned division. The entire order is classed according
to the peculiarities of the horn, and includes hornless ruminants like
camels and llamas. The giraffe constitutes a genus by himself, known
as Camelopardida; deer shed their horns annually; antelopes, bush
antelopes, oxen, sheep and goats are hollow-horned; hence cattle
and sheep are zoologically not very remote from each other. Domestic
European cattle form a distinct group among the Bovidae or oxen.
Oxen include : — P
4i 8
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1. The Bisons. 5. The Gour (Indian bison).
2. The Yaks. 6. The Gayal (Indian cow).
3. The Buffaloes. 7 The Zebus (humped cattle of India).
4. Musk oxen. 8. The European races of cattle.
There are some other oxen, but the eight species above named
show the relative position of cattle in the Animal Kingdom and to-
wards other species.
There are 19 distinct breeds or races of cattle in the British Isles,
and Moll and Gayot have figured no fewer than 55 races of European
cattle in their admirable work, La Connaissance General du Bceuf.
Britain has been famous for cattle from remote times (Bede’s
Ecclesiastical History), and not only so, but the soil and climate
have proved exceptionally favourable for their proper development.
British cattle stand pre-eminent in the world at the present time
for beauty of form, aptitude to fatten, earliness of maturity, and milk-
ing properties. All our races do not possess these aptitudes in the
same degree, but they are represented in all. Our cattle are usually
classified as milking and dairy breeds, and beef producers, although both
classes yield milk and beef. In Europe a third class is usually recog-
nized, distinguished as draught cattle, but horses have almost entirely
superseded working oxen in Great Britain.
The beef producing races of cattle include Shorthorns, Herefords,
Devons, Sussex, Galloways, Aberdeen-Angus, West Highlanders and
Pembrokes.
The principal dairy breeds are Jerseys, Guernseys, Shorthorns, Ayr-
shires, Norfolk Polls, Kerrys and Dexters. Shorthorns may be
included in both sections, and in some other races the distinction
must be regarded as rather arbitrary.
Shorthorn Cattle deserve special notice, as combining both milking
and feeding properties in a special degree. It is true that many of
the highest bred Shorthorns are poor milkers, but the Lincoln Red
strain is celebrated for milk, and some herds have been bred for milk,
and yet retain their fattening properties. What are known as un-
pedigreed Shorthorns are perhaps the most generally distributed
class of cattle in most dairy districts. The Shorthorn is probably
of Dutch origin, but far back in the eighteenth century pure-bred
herds with recorded pedigrees were carefully cherished in Northum-
berland, Durham and Yorkshire. The Dukes of Northumberland,
the Blacketts of Matfen, the Milbanks, St. Quintins and Pennymans
of Durham, and the Aislabie’s of Studley Royal, a very ancient family,
all possessed pure-bred Shorthorns before the days of Robert and
Charles Colling, the Booths, T. Bates and other accredited promoters
of the breed. The enthusiasm of the earlier breeders knew no bounds,
and they have been succeeded by a host of great breeders in all parts
of the kingdom. There have been many voluminous histories written
of Shorthorns, but it is impossible to enter upon particulars here.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON QUADRUPEDS 419
The Shorthorn is of large size and beautifully proportioned. The
colour may be all white, all red, red and white, or roan, and the hair
is abundant, mossy and licked in various directions. Hair or coat
is an important feature. The horns are of wax-like tint, and the
nose is cream-coloured and free from black. The bulls are distin-
guished by “ grandeur ” in carriage and crest, and the cows are docile
and sweet-looking. The beef is red and juicy, but the carcass is liable
to be overloaded with fat, and for this reason Shorthorn beef is some-
times considered inferior to that of other breeds.
Hereford Cattle are easily known by their red colour relieved by white
on the face, feet, breast, withers and tail. They are poor milkers but
quick fatteners, and the beef is of marbled character and of the finest
quality. They originated in Herefordshire and Herts, but are widely
distributed in the Midlands, and are in high estimation among the
graziers of East Anglia. A cross of Hereford and Shorthorn produces
particularly heavy-milkers.
Devon Cattle are found in greatest perfection in North Devon on the
red land. They are of smaller size than either of the last described
breeds, and are of blood-red colour : are poor milkers, but good for
fattening, and the oxen are first-rate for draught purposes.
Sussex Cattle resemble Devons, but are larger in frame, of a swarthier
red and swarthier features. They lack the bright orange tint seen
around the eyes, inside the ears, and around the muzzles of Devon
cattle. The Sussex breed is one of our best beef producers, and is
highly esteemed in its own county. •
Galloway Cattle. These inhabit the south-western peninsula of
Scotland which includes the counties of Dumfries, Wigton and Ivirk-
cubright, and stretches far south of the English border. They live
out of doors winter and summer, and the cows bring forth their calves
in the open and suckle them on the hills. They are black in colour,
although occasionally red or brown, and are long and cylindrical in
shape and stand on short legs. They are of medium size, are polled or
hornless, and are disposed of to graziers, who fatten them on the
rich grazing lands of England. Their glossy black colour, deep car-
cases, heavy hindquarters and polled character are amply distinctive
of the breed, and the beef is of superior quality.
Aberdeen Angus Cattle occur principally in the peninsula which juts
out from the main trend of the coastline to the north-east, forming
the counties of Aberdeen, Inverness and Angus. The breed in many
respects resembles the Galloways, as it is black and polled. The
difference is seen in its larger size, rather lcoser build, and thinner hide
and hair. The Aberdeen Angus is essentially a beef producing breed,
and is not well adapted for milk. It is always a feature in the Smith-
field Cattle Show at Islington.
The West-Highland Cattle harmonize with the rugged character of
their surroundings as fittingly as do the red deer and the native eagle.
420
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
These denizens of the mountains might well seem to be a natural pro-
duct of the land of mist and flood. Their gleaming horns, shaggy
coats, stalwart frames and sombre hues seem like an embodiment of
the “ Spirit of the Highlands.” They found an early improver in
Mr. McNeil, a proprietor in the Hebrides, and from thence they spread
over the Western and Central Highlands. Their symmetry is per-
fect and their size moderate. Their horns are upright or spreading,
and their coats are long and capable of resisting any amount of rain,
snow or sleet. Their colours are black, brown, silvery grey, fawn or
brindled. For scenic effect they are unsurpassed, and when deported
from their native homes they are as decorative as deer, in Windsor
Great Park and other demesnes. The West-Highlanders are quick
fatteners, and yield beef of first-rate quality. At cattle shows, they
always attract an admiring crowd, who gaze upon them at a respect-
ful distance. The free life of West-Highland cattle favours the natural
suckling of the calves, and they are never enumerated among the
dairy breeds.
The Pembroke Cattle of Wales are black, with black tipped white horns.
They are considered to be closely related to the Park Cattle of Chil-
lingham and the native red cattle of Devon. They are an indigenous
breed, and probably are descended from the ancient British cattle.
They are therefore looked upon as the descendants of Bos Primigenius
in contradistinction to Bos longifrous, the extinct wild prototype of
Highland cattle. The best type of Pembroke Cattle are called Castle-
Martins. •
DAIRY BREEDS.
Jersey Cattle properly head the list of dairy cattle. They occur as
the native breed of Jersey, and no bull is allowed to land upon the
island that is not of pure blood. These cattle are of fawn or smoke
colour, beautifully shaded on the ribs and haunches. The horns are
short and curved towards each other, and are black in colour. The
face is deer-like and free from flesh, and the carcass is light in front
and heavy behind. They are free milkers, and the milk is of rich
colour and extremely rich in cream. It is the butter-making breed
par excellence, and the beautiful rich yellow colour of the butter
confers upon it a special value. A Jersey cow converts her food into
rich milk and is a slow fattener. This is a drawback to the male
portions of the herd, which are slow to fatten, and not very saleable
except in the case of the best bulls. The deer-like beauty, small size
and docility of tire cows render them general favourites, and they
are largely kept in suburban districts by villa residents. As ordinary
farming stock they are not general, as the yield of milk and butter
is not so great as in some other breeds, and does not always command
a price commensurate with its quality.
Guernsey Cattle possess similar properties to the Jerseys, but may
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON QUADRUPEDS 421
be readily distinguished by their yellow and white markings and some-
what ampler proportions.
Ayrshire Cattle appear to be the result of Shorthorn crosses upon the
native races which were formerly called Dunlop Cattle. They are of
various colouring, some being almost black, others of Channel Island
hues, while some are brown and white, or yellow and white. The
horns are upright and fairly long. The form is described as “ wedge-
shaped,” by which is meant that from every point of view they are
narrow in front and wide behind. Thus the narrow withers expand
into wide loins, and the wide loins contract into narrow rumps. The
fore end is vertically shallow from withers to brisket, and expands
into great depth at the flanks and buttocks. This is the best cheese-
producing breed, and is famous in the Scotch Cheddar cheese-making
district of Kilmarnock.
The Norfolk Pollies are a red polled race of cattle of modern origin,
and are highly esteemed for dairy purposes, and are also good fatteners.
They probably are descended partly from Galloway cows imported
by Norfolk graziers, and from the old Suffolk Dun, which had a similar
origin.
Kerries and Dexters may be taken together as both are improved varie-
ties of the Irish Kerry breed. They are entirely black and horned.
They are small in size, and are favourites with those who keep two
or three pet cows for domestic uses. The Dexter was produced by
Captain Dexter, who crossed Kerry cows with Shorthorn bulls, and
afterwards bred the producer inter se until the breed became fixed
in its characters. The Dexter fattens more easily than the Kerry.
QUALITY OF BEEF.
The quality of beef depends partly upon race, but also upon age,
sex and feeding. The best beef is that of steers or castrated males of
three years old. Heifer beef is probably equally good, but cow beef
is decidedly inferior, as is also the flesh of bulls. Grass fed beef is
esteemed as superior to that of winter fed animals fattened upon
turnips, oil-cake and other artificial foods. The best beef is red in
colour and marbled or mottled, with fat finely intermingled with the
lean. The hindquarters of cattle are superior to the fore-quarters, and
in fact, necks, shoulders and “ crops ” of beef are never seen on the best
tables, but are sold by contract to shippers, etc., at a low price. The
hind-quarters contain the ribs, the sirloins, the rumps, the buttocks
and the “ rounds.” The flank is rolled and used for “ corned beef.”
Beef is highly popular with Englishmen, and is preferred to mutton.
It is, however, less easy of digestion, and seems naturally to require
mustard or horse-radish as condiments, which are not needed with
mutton.
423
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON VEAL
As the calf, at least as far as it is identified with veal, is destined
to die young — to be killed in comparative infancy — it may, at first
sight, appear of little or no consequence to inquire to what particular
variety or breed of the general stock his sire or dam may belong.
The great art, however, in the modern science of stock-breeding has
been to obtain an animal that shall not only have the utmost beauty
of form of which the species is capable, but, at the same time, possess
a constitution free from all taint, a frame that shall rapidly attain bulk
and stature, and a disposition so kindly that every quantum of food
it takes shall speedily, and to the fullest degree, be assimilated and con-
verted into flesh. The breed, then, is of considerable consequence
in determining, not only the quality of the meat to the consumer, but
its commercial value to the breeder and butcher.
Under the System now adopted in the rearing of domestic cattle and
stock in general, to gratify the arbitrary demands of luxury and fashion,
we can have veal, like lamb, in the market at all seasons, but English
veal is considered to be in season from February to September.
The Cow goes with Young for Nine Months, and the affection and solici-
tude she evinces for her offspring is more human in its tenderness and
intensity than is displayed by any other animal ; and her distress when
she hears it lowing, and is not allowed to reach it with her distended
udders, is often painful to witness ; and when the calf has died, or been
accidentally killed, her grief frequently makes her refuse to give down
her milk. In a state of nature the cow, like the deer, hides her young
in the tall ferns and brakes, and the most secret places ; and only at
stated times, twice or thrice a day, quits the herd, and, hastening to
the secret cover, gives suck to her calf, and with the same circumspec-
tion returns to the community.
The Weaning of Calves is a process that requires a great amount of care
and judgment, for though calves are in reality not weaned till between
the eighth and the twelfth week, the process of rearing them by hand
commences in fact from the birth, the calf never being allowed to suck
its dam. As the rearing of calves for the market is a very important
and lucrative business, the breeder generally arranges his stock so that
ten or a dozen of his cows shall calve about the same time ; and then,
by setting aside a few, to find food for the entire family, gets the
remainder of the herd with their full fountains of milk to carry on the
operations of his dairy. Some people have an idea that skimmed
milk, if given in sufficient quantity, is good enough for the weaning
period of calf-feeding ; but this is a very serious mistake, for the cream,
of which it has been deprived, contains nearly all the oleaginous
principles, and it is found that a calf reared on one part of new milk
mixed with five of water, will thrive and look well, while another
treated with unlimited skim milk, will be poor, thin, and miserable.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON QUADRUPEDS 423
It is sometimes a matter of considerable trouble to induce the calf —
whose instinct only teaches him to suck, which he will do at anything
and with anything — to acquire the knowledge of imbibition, and for
the first few days it is often necessary to fill a bottle with milk, and,
opening his mouth, pour the contents down his throat. The manner,
however, by which he is finally educated into the mystery of suction,
is by putting his allowance of milk into a large wooden bowl ; the nurse
then puts her hand into the milk, and, by bending her fingers upwards,
makes a teat for the calf to grasp in his lips, when the vacuum
created by the suction of the fingers causes the milk to rise along them
into his mouth. In this manner, one by one, the whole family are
fed three times a day, care being taken that new-born calves are not
at first fed on milk from a cow who has calved some days.
As the Calf Progresses towards his Tenth Week, his diet requires to be
increased in quantity and quality ; for these objects his milk can be
thickened with flour or meal, and small pieces of softened oil-cake are
slipped into his mouth after sucking, in order that he may grow familiar
with its taste, when it may be softened and scraped down into his
milk-and-water. After a time, sliced turnips softened by steam are
given to him in tolerable quantities ; then succulent grasses, and finally,
hay may be added to the other food. Some farmers, desirous of render-
ing their calves fat for the butcher in as short a time as possible, forget
both the natural weakness of the digestive organs and the limited
capacity of the stomach, and allow the animals either to suck ad
libitum, or give them, if brought up by the pail or by hand, a larger
quantity of milk than they can digest. The idea of overloadng their
stomach never suggests itself to their minds. They suppose that the
more food the young creature consumes, the sooner it will be fat, and
they allow it no exercise whatever, for fear it should denude its very
bones of their flesh. Under such circumstances the stomach frequently
becomes deranged ; its functions are no longer performed ; the
milk, subjected to the acid of the stomach, coagulates, and forms a
hardened mass of curd, when the muscles become affected with spasms,
and death frequently ensues.
Veal. — Veal is, by many, considered both unwholesome and in-
digestible. The practice, now illegal, of bleeding calves before
killing them, until they were actually in a state of disease, had pro-
bably some effect in producing a general belief in the unwholesomeness
of veal. The flesh of the immature animal is less easily digested
because its fibres offer greater resistance to the digestive agents.
When its fibres are reduced to a fine state of division by the various
processes of mastication, mincing, pounding and sieving, veal is easily
digested. Weight for weight, it contains less nourishment than beef,
in consequence of having in its composition a higher percentage of water,
(78 in 100 parts as compared with 72 per cent, in beef), and a corres-
ponding decrease in the proportion of proteids and fats.
424
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
To Choose Veal.— The whiteness of veal is considered a sign of good
quality, and animals were bled to make their flesh white. On the
Continent calves are killed much younger than is customary in this
country, and they are fed on milk and white food, but no feeding will
make every calf equally white fleshed. As immature meat keeps badly
at all times, it is of importance that the calf should not be bruised in
bringing it to market. The fat should be plentiful and very white,
especially that surrounding the kidney, which in all animals affords
a good indication of quality.
Very young veal is constantly brought to table on the Continent,
but no calf may be killed for food less than 14 days old, whereas in
England they may be sold when 3 days old. The flesh is in the higher
state of perfection when the calf is 8 or 9 weeks old ; after 12 weeks
it becomes coarse in texture.
Veal is most plentiful from February to the end of July.
The Several Parts of a Moderate-sized, Well-fed Calf, about 8 weeks old
are approximately of the following weights : Loin and chump, 18 lb. ;
fillet, 12^ lb. ; hind knuckle, 5JI lb. ; shoulder, 11 lb. ; neck, 11 lb. ;
breast, 9 lb. ; and fore-knuckle, 5 lb., making a total of 144 lb. weight.
The London mode of cutting the carcass is considered to be the stan-
dard. It gives three roasting joints and one boiling joint in each
quarter ; the pieces are also more equally divided, as regards flesh,
and have a better appearance.
The Manner of Cutting up Veal for the English market is to divide
the carcass into four quarters, with eleven ribs to each fore-quarter ;
these are again sub-divided into joints, as exemplified in the
accompanying illustration.
They are used in the following way :
Hind-Quarter.
(1) Loin. — Prime roasting joint, also for chops.
(2) Chump end of Loin. — Roasted.
(3) Fillet. — The choicest and least bony roasting joint, also suitable
for braising for a small party. Cutlets are sometimes taken from
this part.
(4) Hind Knuckle. — Low-priced. Fit for boiling or stewing, or for
stock.
Fore-Quarter.
(5) Fore Knuckle. — Best stewed or boiled. In the young animal all
joints are tender, and can be roasted. When the sinews and tendons
have become stiff and hard with age, certain joints are nearly uneat-
able, except when cooked at a low temperature with moisture.
(6) Best end of the Neck. — For small roasting joint or for chops. Too
large a proportion of bone to be economical. The other end of the
neck is more suitable for stewing.
(7 and 8) Oyster or Bladebone. — Often sold in halves for roasting.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON QUADRUPEDS 425
(9) Breast. — Low in price. Sometimes roasted ; better braised or
stewed. Veal tendons, served as an entree, are cut from this joint.
(10) Head. — Eaten hot or cold in a variety of ways. Calves’ brains
are served as an entree.
Besides these joints, the following parts of the Calf are sold for food : —
(12) Sweetbread. — A delicacy, sold at fancy prices. Cooked in a
variety of ways, generally served as an entree. It is described as heart
sweetbread and throat sweetbread, the latter being the thymus gland.
(13) Liver. — Often used for frying. As it is very lean, it is usually
cooked with some of the inside fat or crow, or with bacon.
(14) Feet. — These are sold by tripe-dressers and butchers, and
used for jelly-making, in the place of prepared gelatine. They may
also be stewed and fried. “ Neats’ foot ” is a common article of food
with the poor.
(15) Heart. — Can be bought separately, or with the pluck or fry.
Liked by many persons ; makes an economical dish either roast or
braised, and is less indigestible than bullock’s heart.
(16) Suet. — Veal suet, sold with the loin, is more delicate for all
purposes than beef, and may with advantage be substituted for it in
puddings, forcemeat, etc.
(17) Kidney. — This is much more delicate than, and is preferred to,
beef kidney. It is sold with the loin ; if sold separately an extra price
is charged.
According to the calculation in the following table we find that is. will
buy 1 lb. and 6 oz. of breast of veal at 9d. per lb., or 1 3 ozs. of veal cutlet
at is. 2d. In the cheaper joint there may be expected an average of
6 ozs. of bone, leaving exactly 1 lb. of solid meat. In the cutlets
there may be no bone, but there will probably be 2 ozs., leaving 10 ozs.
of solid meat. The price of the cutlet is not unusual, though it is high.
It is easy to see that at the price we have quoted, the breast is the more
economical purchase, though it would certainly not be so were the
price of both joints the same.
426 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
TABLE OF THE RELATIVE VALUE OF VARIOUS PARTS OF
VEAL.
Giving the Actual Cost of the Eatable Portion of the Various
Joints, after deducting Loss in Weight from Waste, Bone,
AND DIFFERENT MODES OF COOKING.
Great care has been taken in the preparation of these tables, all the
joints having been carefully tested. The result shows that no joint
can be reckoned to cost less than is. per lb. Veal is not, however,
such an extravagant meat as it is generally considered to be, the waste
in cooking, as may be seen by the second table, not being excessive.
Name of Joint.
How usually
cooked.
Weight
before
cooking.
Weight
when
cooked,
bone and
Total
loss
per lb.
Average
cost
per lb.
Cost per lb.
after cook-
ing, bone
and waste
deducted.
deducted.
lb.
OZ.
lb.
OZ.
OZ.
s.
i.
s.
d.
Breast ....
Roasted .
5
O
3
6
51
o
7
o
IO
Fillet ....
Roasted .
9
12
7
o
4}
I
2
I
4 it
Head ....
Boiled
12
4
7
8
6
0
6
o
9*
Heart ....
Knuckle (of shoulder
Baked
I
o
I
5
I
0
8
o
8}
or leg) ....
Boiled
5
15
'y
12 4
84
o
6
I
I
Leg (in cutlets) .
Fried
I
12
I
61
2\
I
2
I
5
Liver ....
Fried
I
O
O
15}
4
o
10
o
io£
Loin
Roasted .
• 7
O
3
13
71
0
9
I
4
Neck Best end .
Roasted .
3
8
2
64
5
o
9
I
I
Shoulder (part)
Stewed
9
o
6
3
5
0
9
I
I
Sweetbread
Fried
I
4
I
2 1
I
I
6
I
7
Tongue ....
Boiled
2
4
I
64
6
o
8
o
II
TABLE GIVING WEIGHT OF BONE, SKIN AND WASTE IN
JOINTS OF VEAL.
Name of Joint.
Weight of
joint when
bought.
Weight of
bone, skin
and waste.
Loss of
weight by
cooking.
Total
weight of
waste.
Weight of
eatable
matter.
lb.
OZ.
lb.
OZ.
lb. oz.
lb. oz.
lb. oz.
Breast
5
0
o
4
i 6
I IO
3 6
Fillet ...
9
12
0
8
2 4
2 12
7 0
Head . . .
12
4
3
o
1 12
4 12
7 8
Knuckle
5
15
2
7
o ii4
3 2j
2 124
Leg (in cutlets)
I
12
O
3t
O 2
o 54
1 6J
Loin
7
O
I
II
i 8
3 3
3 13
Shoulder
9
O
2
I
O 12
2 13
6 3
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON QUADRUPEDS 427
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE CHOICE OF MEAT
Choosing Meat. — Every housekeeper ought to know how to choose
a good piece of meat in the butcher’s shop, and how to detect a bad
piece sent to her kitchen. It is almost needless to say that the first
necessity is that the meat should be wholesome. It may be unwhole-
some from a variety of causes.
Parasites. — It may be infested with parasites, and this condition
Is known to be without doubt most injurious to the consumer. We
shall have to speak again of “ measly pork ” in another chapter, and
of the parasite known as “ Trichina spiralis,” that also frequently
infests the pig. The chief, indeed, the only safeguard against this
danger lies in the thorough cooking of the meat, every part of which
should be raised to the temperature of boiling water, 212 Fahr. This
applies particularly to all the visceral organs, where these are eaten, for
it is in these parts of the animal that parasites are most often found.
Putrefaction. — Even if the animal be killed in a healthy condition,
the meat may become unwholesome by putrefaction. Habit has much
to do in accommodating mankind to various kinds of foods. Some
American Indians prefer putrid meat, and they bury salmon for some
months in order to bring it to what they consider a state of perfection.
Until recently Englishmen preferred game in a half-putrid condition,
but now the taste for it is rapidly disappearing.
To Choose Good Meat it is necessary to see that it possesses the following
qualifications : —
(1 ) It should have a marbled appearance, from the ramifications of little
veins of fat among the muscles ; this is specially characteristic of
beef.
Meat may be wholesome, yet not fat, as we shall explain later, but
a sickly animal never fattens.
(2) It should be firm and elastic to the touch, and should scarcely
moisten the fingers, bad meat being wet, sodden and flabby, with the
fat looking like wet jelly or parchment.
(3) It should be neither of a pale pink colour nor a deep purple tint;
the former is a sign of .disease, the latter indicates that the animal has
not been slaughtered, but has died with the blood in it, or has suffered
from acute fever. In this case the inside fat surrounding the kidneys
and the liver is often suffused with blood, showing plainly that there
has been inflammation of those organs.
(4) It should have little or no odour, and the odour should not be
disagreeable, for diseased meat has a sickly, cadaverous smell, and
sometimes a smell of physic. This is easily discovered when the meat
is cut up finely and put into warm water.
(5) It should not shrink or waste much in cooking, though this de-
pends partly on the mode of cooking, as, for instance, roast meat
wastes more than baked, and some joints more than others. Badly
428 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
fed meat, such as pork fed on nuts and offal instead of meal, wastes
much in cooking,
(6) It should not run to water or become very wet on standing for
a day or two but should on the contrary be dry upon the surface.
Meat however that has been frozen is always damp on the surface,
although the quality may be excellent.
Inferior Meat. — Meat may be quite wholesome and yet may be of
inferior quality. Ordinary purchasers do not understand this in theory,
though they are accustomed to it in practice. An ox that had worked
at the plough would be hard and somewhat strong-flavoured ; but
suitably cooked it would be unobjectionable from a hygienic point of
view. Cow-beef is habitually sold in the markets and the poor gladly
buy it at a low price. Even in the best quarters of the town, superior
meat hangs side by side with the second quality. Not enough comes
to town of the best short-horned beef, or of Southdown mutton, to
supply one-tenth of the customers, and in all market -lists the prices
at per stone vary according to the breed and the quality. It answers
the grazier’s purpose to take a lower price per stone for an animal that
arrives quickly at maturity, and attains to the greatest weight on a
given amount of food. As a rule, the larger the animal, the coarser
the flesh. This is markedly true of different varieties of the same species.
In providing for a large number of persons, where quantity and cheap-
ness are of more importance than first-rate quality, joints of large,
full-flavoured beef and mutton are by far the most advantageous to
buy, and for strong soup, stews with vegetables, and such dishes,
there is no reason for choosing the most delicate meat.
Fat Meat. — As regards fat, that can be bought more cheaply than
on a joint of meat, and many persons object to eat much fat. But
it is always risky to buy any part of an unusually lean animal, in case
its condition should be due to disease. It is better to buy a lean joint
off a fat beast, or to cut off the fat before cooking the meat, as it can
be clarified and used for deep frying, plain cakes, pastry, etc. Again,
if economy is an object, it is well to buy a cheap part of a first-rate
animal rather than a prime joint off an inferior beast. The fore-
quarter costs less than the hind ; and in a bullock it is easy to get a
solid lump of meat from the fore-quarter with little or no bone ; of
course, if a joint is cheap because it is bony, there is no economy in
buying it.
A Few Observations on the Nutritive Value of Salted Meat may be properly
introduced in this place. Every housewife knows that dry salt in
contact with fresh meat gradually becomes fluid brine. The ap-
plication of salt causes the fibres of meat to contract, and the juice to
flow out from its pores; as much as one-third of the juice of the meat
is often forced out in this manner. As this juice is pure extract of
meat, containing albumin, osmasome, and other valuable principles
it follows that meat, which has been preserved by the action of salt,
cannot have the nutritive properties of fresh meat.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON QUADRUPEDS 429
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON BEEF
Buying Beef. — Beef should not be eaten if it is in the least high.
In dry weather it will keep some days; but it very soon spoils in damp
weather, even if the thermometer is low. At such times joints of meat
may often be bought very cheaply, especially in the large markets on
Saturday nights. The meat may be quite good at the time it is sold,
but it would not be in twenty-four or thirty-six hours. And
thrifty housekeepers, having more time than money at disposal, in
this way do their marketing to great advantage. It is not wise at such
times — perhaps not at any time when economy is studied — to go out
with a fixed idea of the joint that is to be bought. A general idea of the
relative value of each joint, of its usual price, and its average proportion
of bone and fat, is all that is wanted. The prices of meat, and of all
perishable articles, are only fixed so long as the circumstances which
determine them are fixed, and w'hen there is a glut in the market of
anything that cannot be held back, it is sure to be sold for whatever it
will fetch.
Foreign Beef is now imported in large quantities, and although it
is not, generally speaking, considered so good in flavour or quality
as English meat, is nevertheless excellent, and can be usually obtained
at a lower price. The best parts only used to be sent to this country,
but owing to the great improvement in the means of transport and
methods for preserving the meat, carcasses frozen, chilled or refrigerated,
arrive in excellent condition, and are cut up and sold in the same
manner as English beef, and usually at a lower rate, thus placing good
meat within the reach of all classes. The chief supplies are from the
United States, Australia, and Argentina. The beef from the United
States of the best brands (as those of Swift, Armour and Morris), are
not frozen, but refrigerated or chilled, and are sold at a rate within a
fraction of our home-raised meat. Argentine beef is not considered
to be so good as that from the United States, but is considerably less
in price, although it is not so cheap as the beef imported from Aus-
tralia, which is the cheapest of all. Large quantities of live cattle
are now brought over, especially from Argentina, to England, and are
slaughtered for the market.
The Larder is the only room in the house that should always face due
north, so that the sun never comes in, There should be thorough
ventilation, and no direct communication with the drains, an
untrapped sink in the floor. The joint should be hung up, not laid on
a dish or plate. It should be wiped, and it is a good plan to dust it
over with flour or flour and pepper. If placed in a draught, meat
will keep for a longer time. The kernel, often seen in the fat of
the round or silverside. and the rr arrow from the backbone should
always be removed, as it taints before the joint itself. Meat from a
sickly animal, or from one that has been over-driven or bruised, does
not keep well. Old meat keeps better than young.
430
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Tainted Meat. — If meat is clammy or musty from being kept, it
should be washed in water containing vinegar or some such non-
poisonous disinfectant as permanganate of potash. Powdered borax
dissolved in water is the best to use. Another plan is to powder
the joint with charcoal, and then wash it. In any case it should
be roasted, not boiled or stewed, if the meat is really tainted
ed enough to give it a flavour. It is much better to half-roast or
parboil a joint a day or two before it is eaten than to hang it too
long, for it is really not hurt by so doing if it is put down to a very
hot fire.
The General Mode of Slaughtering Oxen in this country is by striking
them a smart blow writh a hammer or poleaxe on the head, a little
above the eyes. By this means, when the blow is skilfully given, the
beast is brought down at one blow, and, to prevent recovery, a cane
is generally inserted, by which the spinal cord is perforated, in-
stantly depriving the ox of all sensation of pain. In Spain, and some
other countries on the Continent, and also in some parts of England,
it is usual to deprive oxen of life by the operation of pithing or dividing
the spinal cord in the neck, close to the back part of the head. This
is, in effect, the same mode as is practised in the celebrated Spanish
bull-fights by the matador, and it is instantaneous in depriving the
animal of sensation, if the operator be skilful.
The Manner in which a Side of Beef is cut up in London is shown in the
accompanying engraving. The custom varies in different parts of the
country, and in some places no difference is made in price between
one joint and another. This, however, is of rare occurrence. Meat
is sold wholesale at per stone of 8 lb.
In the Metropolis, on account of the large number of its population
possessing the means to indulge in the “ best of everything,” the
demand for the most delicate joints of meat is great ; the price, at the
same time, being much higher for these than for the other parts. The
consequence is that in London the carcass is there divided so as to ob-
tain the greatest quantity of meat on the most esteemed joints. But
in many places, owing to a greater equality in the social condition and
habits of the inhabitants, the demand and prices for the different parts
of the carcase are more equalized, there is not the same reason for the
butcher to cut the best joints so large.
The meat on those parts of the animal in which the muscles are least
called into action is most tender and succulent ; as, for instance, along
the back, from the rump to the hinder part of the shoulder; whilst
the limbs, shoulder and neck are the toughest, driest, and least es-
teemed.
Amongst the illustrations is given an engraving of the animal, with the
parts indicated from whence the different joints are cut, followed by
a list of their names.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON QUADRUPEDS 431
The Names of the
Several Joints
are as follows : —
Hind-Quarter.
Fore-Quarter.
I.
Sirloin.
10.
Fore rib (6 ribs).
2.
Rump.
11.
Middle rib (4 ribs).
3-
Aitchbone.
12.
Chuck rib (2 ribs).
4-
Buttock or Round.
13-
Leg of mutton piece.
5-
Topside.
14.
Brisket.
6.
Silverside.
15-
Clod.
7-
Thick flank.
16.
Neck or Sticking.
8.
Thin flank.
17-
Shin.
9-
Leg.
18.
Cheek.
These joints are generally cooked in the following ways — -
Hind-Quarter.
(1) Sirloin. — Corresponds to loin of mutton, without the chump-end.
Two sirloins together correspond to saddle of mutton, and are known
as a baron of beef, now very seldom seen. The sirloin is almost invariably
roasted, and is considered the best joint for that purpose. Some of the kid-
ney suet is always taken away, and some persons cook the under-cut or
roll separately, instead of roasting it with the sirloin. The under-cut
is better than any other part for entrees, such as grenadines, olives,
fillets of beef, etc.
(2) Rump.— Broiling steaks should be cut from here, although very
often they are not. For stewing, steak from another part does as well,
and costs several pence less. Also roasted. A first-rate joint for any
purpose.
(3) Aitchbone. — Often salted and boiled.
(4) Buttock. — A large lump of solid meat without much fat. The
joint is roasted in large establishments where economy is studied, but is
better boiled or stewed.
(5) Topside. — The top part of buttock, cut into steaks and joints for
roasting.
(6) Silverside. — The bottom part of buttock, generally salted and
boiled.
(7) Thick Flank. — Coarser in fibre than some parts, but well flavoured,
and generally tender. No bone and little fat, and sold at a reasonable
price, so that it is one of the most economical parts to buy, whether
for pies and puddings, or for a roast ; also for steaks.
(8) Thin Flank.— May be used for stews, but is rather fat. Is always
low-priced. Perhaps the best way to use it is to salt or pickle it and
eat it cold, when it is a very economical joint.
(9) Leg. — Only purchased for soup meat, or the lean part for slow
stewing.
Fore-Quarter.
(10) Fore Rib. — The 6 ribs nearest the sirloin are the best for any
432
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
purpose. The best end of the ribs, or wing rib, is always to be preferred.
The best end of the ribs has a strip of yellow gristle running about an
inch from the outer skin. This should always be cut out before it comes to
table. It is not necessary to buy all 6 ribs at once, only sufficient to
make a piece thick enough to stand up on dish when roasted, or two ribs.
It is generally thought more economical to have the bones taken out
and the meat rolled round ; the bones then serve for soup. This applies
of course to the last 3 or 4 ribs, not the wing ribs.
(11) Middle Rib. — Almost always roasted. It is from this part that
the top and back ribs are obtained.
(12) Chuck Rib. — Cut into steaks, etc., mainly for stewing or pud-
dings. The bladebone steak is also cut from here.
(13) Leg of Mutton Piece. — Really part of chuck rib. Solid meat with
little fat. The best for pies and puddings, as it is full of gravy. Good
steaks are cut from it, and it is very economical to roast.
(14) Brisket, or Breast. — Sold at a low price for stewing or salting.
Very good for either purpose, but rather fat. It is excellent cold.
(15) Clod. — Part of this is often sent if soup meat is ordered. If it
is not fat, it makes good pies and puddings, but the meat should be
stewed first. It is also suitable for an economical stew.
(16) Neck. — Used in the same way as the clod.
(17) Shin. — For soups, gravies and cheap stews.
(18) Ox Cheek. — This is too bony to be a very cheap joint, although
it is sold at a low price, and can be made very palatable by slow stewing,
or is good for soup. The brains, well soaked, and boiled or fried, make
a good dish.
Besides these joints, the following parts of the ox are sold for food
(19) Cow-heel.— The feet are boiled and neats-foot oil extracted.
These are sold by butchers with the skin on, and are cooked and sold
by tripe-dressers or used for soup. They make as good jelly as
calves’ feet, and what remains of them is very good eating. They
can be used for soup in the same way as calves’ head.
(20) Ox-tail. — For soups and stews. Considered a delicacy, and,
therefore, not cheap.
(21) Heart. — Generally roasted. Economical, but, on account of the
closeness and hardness of the muscular tissue, very indigestible.
(22) Tongue. — Can be bought fresh or salted. Is considered a
delicacy. Usually boiled and eaten cold, but also stewed as an entree.
(23) Liver. — Very nutritious and very cheap, but coarse flavoured.
Finds a ready sale in the poorest quarters. The food known as “ fag-
gots,” is made of the liver and lights of sheep and bullocks, mixed with
some fat.
(24) Lights, or Lungs. — Sold for cats’ and dogs’ food.
(25) Kidneys. — For puddings, pies, or stewing. They are cheaper
and less delicate than the kidneys of sheep, and are difficult of digestion.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON QUADRUPEDS 433
Kidneys need thorough but light cooking, for if they are exposed to a
high temperature they dry up and become tasteless and horny.
(26) Tripe. — Sold partially cleaned by the tripe-dressers. It is said
to be the most digestible of meats, and specially suited for invalids,
although rather fat. Sometimes served as an entree. It consists of
the paunch or ruminant stomach of the ox. “ Blanket tripe,” “ honey-
comb tripe,” and “ double tripe,” are popular names derived from
their respective characteristic conformations.
(27) Sweetbread. — Coarser in texture than that of the calf, needing
long and careful cooking.
(28) Suet. — The inside fat. That which surrounds the kidneys is the
firmest and best for all purposes, especially for puddings, but at Christ-
mas time any pieces of white fat are sold in its stead.
(29) Spleen, or Milt of bullock, sheep and pig, is sold for food. It is
generally stuffed and roasted, or stewed, or boiled for stock.
It is not possible to lay down any exact rule as to the relative
cheapness of each joint of meat. The joint itself varies, the prices
vary, the tastes of eaters vary, perhaps, most of all. But, by way of a
rough calculation, the following may be offered : —
Rumpsteak, beefsteak and bullock’s liver are all three without any
bone. Spend one shilling, and you will get 2 lb. of liver, 1 lb. of beef-
steak, or 12 ozs. of rumpsteak. Of shin of beef cut without a bone,
a shilling buys i-J- lb., and of the solid roasting joint cut from the
shoulder, about 1 lb. 3 ozs. Among these are the cheapest of animal
food. The shin of beef is only capable of satisfactory results in
the hands of a good and patient cook. Ribs of beef cost a little less
than beefsteak per lb., but then there are 2 ozs. or 3 ozs. of bone in each
shilling’s worth, besides a quantity of fat. The shoulder costs less
than the ribs, and has no bone.
TABLE OF THE RELATIVE VALUE OF VARIOUS PARTS OF
BEEF.
Giving the Actual Cost of the Eatable Portion of the different
joints of Beef, after deducting Loss of Weight from Waste
and Bone, by different Modes of Cooking.
Great care has been taken in the preparation of these tables ; all the
joints have been specially cooked, and the different weights carefully
tested. It will surprise many to see the actual relative amount of food
obtained, and the doubtful economy of some of the cheaper joints.
434
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Name of Joint.
How usually
cooked.
Weight
before
cooking.
Weight
when
cooked,
bone and
Total
loss
per lb.
Average
cost
per lb.
Cost per lb.
after cook-
ing, bone
and waste
deducted.
deducted.
lb.
ozs.
lb. ozs.
oz.
s. d.
s.
d.
Aitchbone
Roasted .
8
9
3 5
9 1
0 7
I
7
Brisket
Boiled
4
13
2 13
6J
O 5i
0
9i
Buttock (in steaks)
2
4
2 3
t
I O
0
nl
Heart
Roasted .
5
0
4 13I
i
0 5
0
6i
Leg of mutton piece
Roasted .
6
8
5 0
3!
0 10
I
I
Ribs (fore)
Roasted .
7
8
4 4
7
0 II
I
7i
,, (middle)
Roasted .
8
4
4 13
6-1
0 9
I
61
Topside
Baked
5
2
4 7t
2
0 10I
0
ill
„ (silver side)
Boiled
6
5
5 2
3
0 9
0
II
Rump (steaks) .
Broiled
I
8
1 7$
i
I 2
I
2\
Sirloin
Roasted .
II
8
8 4
4 1
O II
I
3i
Tongue
Boiled
6
o
4 oi
4
0 9
0
io£
Note. — The prices quoted are average ones for English beef ; Australian beef is cheaper, but wastes
ft little more in cooking ; American, U.S., a fraction lower.
TABLE GIVING WEIGHT OF BONE, SKIN AND WASTE IN
JOINTS OF BEEF.
Name of Joint.
Weight of
joint when
bought.
Weight of
bone, skin
and waste.
Loss of
weight by
cooking.
Total
weight of
waste.
Weight of
eatable
matter.
lb.
OZ.
lb. oz.
lb.
oz.
lb.
oz.
lb. oz.
Aitchbone . 0
8
9
2 3
3
I
5
4
3 5
Brisket
4
13
0 12
I
4
2
0
2 13
Leg of mutton piece .
6
8
0 8
I
O
I
8
5 ©
Ribs (tore)
7
8
2 O
I
4
3
4
4 4
„ (middle)
8
4
2 I
I
6
3
7
4 t3
Round ....
5
2
O 2
O
81
O
10I
4 7\
„ (silver side) .
6
5
0 II
O
8
I
3
5 2
Rumpsteak
I
8
None
O
oi
O
o£
1 7\
Sirloin ....
II
8
I 12
I
S
3
4
8 4
Tongue ....
6
0
O I
I
6 V
1
7\
4 81
RECIPES FOR COOKING
VEAL
CHAPTER XV
693. — BLANQUETTE OF VEAL. (See Veal Stew.)
694. — BOUDINETTES OF VEAL. (Fr.— Boudinettes
de Veau.)
Ingredients. — 6 ozs. of lean cooked veal, 2 oz. of cooked lean ham or
tongue, 1 tablespoonful of grated cheese, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, 1
yolk of egg, salt and pepper, pig’s caul, 2 or 3 lb. of spinach, T a pint
of good gravy, meat glaze.
Method. — Wash, pick, cook and rub the spinach through a fine sieve
(see Vegetables). Mince the veal and ham very finely, put them into
a small stewpan with 1 tablespoonful of the spinach puree, the cheese,
cream, and yolk of egg, season to taste, stir and cook very slowly
for 3 or 4 minutes, then turn on to a plate to cool. Cut the caul into
pieces 3J inches square, shape the mixture into squares of i£ inches
diameter, fold them in the pieces of caul, and bake them for 7 or 8
minutes in a moderate oven. Put the spinach into a stewpan with 2
tablespoonfuls of gravy, dredge with a little flour, season well with salt
and pepper, re-heat, and then arrange in an oblong form in the centre
of a hot dish. Brush the boudinettes over with liquid meat glaze,
arrange them neatly as squares, or diamond wise on the spinach, and
pour round the remainder of the hot gravy.
Time. — 20 to 25 minutes, after the spinach is cooked. Average Cost,
is. iod. to 2s. Sufficient for 6 persons.
695. — BRAIN CAKES. (Fr. — Gateaux de Cervelles de
Veau.)
Ingredients. — Calf’s brains, 1 small onion sliced, 1 bay-leaf, 6 pepper-
corns, 2 or 3 eggs, breadcrumbs, frying-fat, salt and pepper, vinegar.
Method. — Wash the brains in salt and water, remove the skin and
fibres, and let them remain in salt and water until wanted. When
the calf’s head is cooking they may be tied in muslin and boiled with it
for about 20 minutes. When cooked separately, they must be put
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
436
into a stewpan with as much water as will cover them, 1 teaspoonful
of salt, 1 tablespoonful of vinegar, the slices of onion, peppercorns and
bay-leaf, and cooked gently for the same length of time, or until firm.
When cool, chop finely, season well with salt and pepper, and add as
much beaten egg as is necessary to bind the ingredients together.
Stir over the fire until the mixture thickens, and when cool form into
small round cakes, coat them with egg and breadcrumbs, and fry until
lightly browned in hot fat.
Time. — 1 hour altogether. Average Cost, 5d. or 6d., exclusive of the
brains. Sufficient to garnish 1 dish, or, when served as a separate dish,
for 3 or 4 persons.
696. — VEAL A LA ROMAINE. ( Fr . — Poitrine de
Veau a la Romaine.)
Ingredients. — A breast of veal, 1 lb. of sausage meat, \ a lb. of Carolina
rice, 1 tablespoonful of grated cheese, i£ pints of stock, 1 large onion
sliced, 1 carrot sliced, \ a small turnip sliced, a bouquet-garni (parsley,
thyme, bay -leaf), 10 peppercorns, pepper and salt.
Method. — Remove all bones and tendons, trim neatly, and season
well with salt and pepper. Spread the sausage meat evenly over the
inner surface, roll up lightly, and bind securely with string. Place the
bones and trimmings in a stewpan just large enough to contain the
meat, add the prepared vegetables, bouquet-garni, peppercorns,
and a good seasoning of salt. Place the meat on the top, add water
to nearly cover the vegetables, lay a greased paper on the meat, and
put on a close-fitting lid. Cook very gently, basting frequently and
adding more water or stock when necessary. Boil the rice in salted
water for 10 minutes, drain well, replace in the stewpan, and add the
boiling stock. Simmer gently until the stock becomes absorbed,
then season to taste. When the meat has cooked for 2 hours remove
it from the stewpan, strain and replace the stock, add the prepared
rice, and put back the meat. Cover with a greased paper as before,
cook gently for 40 minutes longer, then take up the meat and remove
the tape. Stir the cheese into the rice, place it on a hot dish, lay the
meat on the top, and serve. The appearance of the meat is improved
by brushing it lightly over with glaze. Variety may be introduced
by forming the rice into croquettes, in which case it should be cooked
in stock, mixed with one or two eggs, and when cold, shaped and fried
in hot fat.
Time. — About 3 hours. Average Cost, is., exclusive of the veal.
Sufficient or 8 or more persons, according to size. Seasonable at any time.
697. — BREAST OF VEAL STEWED WITH PEAS.
( Fr . — Poitrine de Veau aux Petits Pois.)
Ingredients. — Breast of veal, forcemeat balls (see No. 396.), oz. of
RECIPES FOR COOKING VEAL
437
butter, i oz. of flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup, 2 table-
spoonfuls of tomato sauce, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1 table-
spoonful of finely-chopped onion, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme,
bay-leaf), 2 cloves, 2 blades of mace, 6 allspice, 6 peppercorns, and a thin
strip of lemon-rind (all these should be tied in a piece of muslin), a
few rashers of bacon, 1 pint of shelled peas, 1 or 2 ozs. of dripping, salt
and pepper.
Method. — Wipe the meat with a clean damp cloth, and cut it into pieces
convenient for serving. Melt the dripping in a stewpan, and fry the
meat until lightly browned ; fry the onion for 2 or 3 minutes, then drain
off all the fat. Have ready as much boiling stock or water as will just
cover the meat, put it into the stewpan, with the herbs, cloves, mace,
allspice, peppercorns, and lemon-rind, add a liberal seasoning of salt,
cover closely, and simmer gently for nearly 2 hours. Meanwhile roll
the bacon and run a skewer through it, prepare the forcemeat as directed
but make it less moist than when intended for stuffing, shape it into
balls the size of a walnut, and either fry or bake them until crisp and
brown in a little hot butter or fat ; the bacon may be cooked at the
same time. When the meat has stewed for 2 hours put in the peas,
cook until nearly tender, then add the butter and flour (kneaded smoothly
together), in very small portions. Continue the cooking until the peas
are ready, then take out the herbs, etc., put in the ketchup, tomato
sauce, lemon-juice, season to taste, and serve garnished with the force-
meat balls and rolls of bacon.
Time. — About 3 hours. Average Cost, iod. per lb. Sufficient for 6 or
7 persons.
698. — BREAST OF VEAL, STEWED. (Another
Method.)
Ingredients.— Breast of veal, 2 onions, 2 small carrots, 1 very small
turnip, 12 peppercorns, salt, parsley or piquante sauce ( see Sauces).
Method.— Put the veal into a saucepan with as much cold water as
will cover it, bring to the boil, skim well, add the vegetables cut into
dice, and peppercorns, salt to taste, cover closely, and simmer gently
for 2\ or 3 hours. To serve, pour a little sauce over the veal, and send
the remainder to table in a tureen.
Time. — From 2% to 3 hours. Average Cost, gd. to iod. per lb. Suffi-
cient, allow 4 lb. for 8 or 9 persons. %
699. — BREAST OF VEAL ROLLED AND STEWED
Ingredients. — A breast of veal, veal forcemeat ( see Forcemeats), rolls
of fried bacon, forcemeat balls, lemon.
Method. — Remove the bones and tendons (boil the former down for
gravy ( see recipes for cooking tendons). Flatten the meat with the
438
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
cutlet bat or rolling pin, season well with salt and pepper, spread on
a thin layer of forcemeat, roll up tightly, and bind firmly with tape.
Have ready boiling in a saucepan sufficient stock or water to cover the
joint ; if water is used, i onion, i carrot, \ a turnip, and a little celery
and seasoning should be added when the water boils. Bring to the
boil, skim well, and simmer gently for 3 or 3^ hours, according to size.
Meanwhile prepare the gravy ( see Gravies), forcemeat balls, and rolls
of bacon. When sufficiently cooked, remove the meat to a hot dish,
take away the tapes, and garnish with the forcemeat balls, rolls of
bacon and cut lemon. When the veal is not a good colour a little of the
brown gravy may be used to partially mask it, otherwise serve the whole
in a tureen.
Time.— From 31 to 4 hours altogether. Average Cost, iod. per lb.
Sufficient, allow 4 lb. for 5 or 6 persons.
700. — CALF’S BRAINS, FRIED. (JFr.— Cervelles de
Veau frites.)
Ingredients. — 1 or 2 Calf’s brains, vinegar, 1 small onion. For the batter :
2 ozs. of flour, 1 tablespoonful of salad oil, \ a gill of tepid water, the
white of 1 egg, salt, frying-fat.
Method. — Remove the skin and fibres, wash the brains in several
waters, put them into a stewpan with the onion (sliced), and a table-
spoonful of vinegar, bring to the boil, and simmer gently for 10 minutes.
Remove from the stewpan, strain, dry well, and cut the brains into
rather thin slices. Add a little salt to the flour, mix smoothly with the
salad oil and water, whip the white of egg stiffly, and stir it lightly into
the batter. Have ready a deep pan of hot frying-fat, dip each slice
of brains into the batter, drop these into the hot fat, and fry them until
lightly browned. Drain well, dish up, garnish with fried parsley, and
serve hot.
Time. — From 30 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, iod. to is. Sufficient
for 3 or 4 persons.
701. — CALF’S BRAINS, MILAN STYLE.
(Fr. — Cervelles de Veau a la Milanaise.)
Ingredients. — 2 calves’ brains, f of a pint of tomato sauce, J of a pint
of well reduced white sauce ( see Sauces), 2 tablespoonfuls of cream,
4 ozs. of macaroni, 1 small onion, 1 tablespoonful of vinegar, 1 egg,
breadcrumbs, frying-fat, salt and pepper, flour.
Method. — Prepare, cook and slice the brains as directed in the pre-
ceding recipe ; season a dessertspoonful of flour with salt and pepper,
dip each slice of brains in the mixture, brush over with egg, coat with
breadcrumbs, and fry until lightly browned in hot fat. Break the
macaroni into short lengths, put it into salted boiling water, and boil
RECIPES FOR COOKING VEAL
439
rapidly until tender, then drain well. Have the white sauce ready,
add to it the macaroni and cream, and season to taste. Dish the slices
of brains on a potato border, pile the macaroni in the centre, pour
round a little of the hot tomato sauce, and serve the remainder in a
tureen.
Time.— 40 to 45 minutes. Average Cost, is. 8d. Sufficient for 4 to 6
persons.
702. — CALF’S BRAINS WITH MAITRE D’HOTEL
SAUCE. ( Fr . — Cervelles de Veau a la
Maitre d’Hotel.)
Ingredients. — Calf’s brains, \ a pint of white sauce ( see Sauces),
1 teaspooonful of finely-chopped parsley, 1 tcaspoonful of lemon-juice,
1 small onion, 1 tablespoonful of vinegar, salt and pepper.
Method.— Prepare and cook the brains as directed in the preceding re-
cipe, and cut them into small thick slices. Have the sauce ready in a
stew-pan, add the parsley, lemon-juice, and season to taste. Put in the
slices of brain, and, when thoroughly hot, serve.
Time. — About 30 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. Sufficient, for
3 or 4 persons.
703. — CALF’S BRAINS WITH BLACK BUTTER
SAUCE. ( Fr . — Cervelles de Veau au Beurre
Noir.)
Ingredients. — 2 calves’ brains, of a pint of good stock. For the
sauce : i\ ozs. of butter, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, -} a
teaspoonful of vinegar, salt and pepper.
Method. — Wash the brains in salt and water, remove the skin and
fibres, and drain well. Warm the stock in a stewpan, put in the brains,
and simmer gently for about 10 minutes, then drain well. Fry the
butter in an omelette pan over a quick fire until it acquires a nut-brown
colour, then add to it the parsley and vinegar, pour this over the brains,
and serve.
Time. — From 20 to 25 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. Sufficient for
4 to 6 persons.
704. — CALF’S BRAINS WITH POULETTE SAUCE.
( Fr . — Cervelles de Veau a la Poulette.)
Ingredients. — 2 calves’ brains. For the sauce : \ a pint of stock,
ozs. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, the juice
of 1 lemon, 1 shallot, finely-chopped, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped
parsley. For the rice border : 1 pint of white stock, 4 ozs. of rice, the
yolk of 1 egg, salt and pepper, nutmeg.
Method. — Wash the brains in several waters, put them into a stewpan
440
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
with as much water as will cover them, add a few drops of lemon-juice
and a teaspoonful of salt. Boil up slowly, then remove the brains,
drain well, and cut them into thick dice. Wash the rice, blanch and drain
it well, and cook in the stock until tender. Melt the butter in a small
stewpan, fry the shallot until lightly browned, stir in the flour, cook
for a few minutes without browning, pour in the stock, and stir until
it boils. Simmer the sauce gently for io minutes, strain, return to the
stewpan, put in the brains, cream, remainder of the lemon-juice, and
re-heat gradually. When the rice is tender, season it with salt, pepper,
add a pinch of nutmeg and the yolk of egg, cook for a few minutes
longer, then turn into a well-buttered border mould. Shake the rice well
down, in order that it may fill every part of the mould, then turn it on
to a hot dish. Add the parsley to the contents of the stewpan, dish
the ragout in the centre of the rice border, and serve hot.
Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, is. qd. to 2s. Sufficient for 6 or
7 persons.
705. — CALF’S EARS. ( Fr . — Oreilles de Veau
Farcies).
Ingredients. — 2 ears, forcemeat, No. 396, 12 small mushrooms, 1 onion
stuck with 2 cloves, a pint of milk, \ a pint of stock, No. 7, 2 table-
spoonfuls of cream, 1 yolk of egg, 1 sliced lemon, salt and pepper, pepper-
corns.
Method. — The ears should be cut as deeply as possible from the
head. Wash, blanch, and drain them thoroughly, put them into a stew-
pan with the milk, a little water and a seasoning of salt, stew gently
for 1 hour, then drain and dry well. Fill the insides with veal force-
meat, fold and tie securely, and place them in a stewpan with the stock,
onion, cloves, 6 peppercorns, and salt to taste. Cook gently for
1 hour, then strain off the stock, and keep the ears as hot as possible.
Meanwhile wash and skin the mushrooms, stew them until tender in
a little of the milk in which the ears were cooked, and halve or quarter
them. Beat the yolk of egg and cream together, and add the strained
stock, stirring meanwhile. Replace in the stewpan, stir by the side
of the fire until the yolk of egg thickens, add the prepared mush-
rooms, and season to taste. Place the ears on a hot dish, pour the sauce
round, garnish with sliced lemon, and if liked some small fried force-
meat balls.
Time. — 2\ hours. Average Cost, is. 9d. to 2s. 3d. Sufficient for 4
persons. Seasonable at any time.
706. — CALF’S FEET, FRIED. (Ftc— Pieds de Veau
a l’Horly.)
Ingredients. — 2 calves’ feet. For the stock : 1 carrot, 1 onion, 6 pepper-
corns. For the marinade (brine in which meat, etc., is soused) :
RECIPES FOR COOKING VEAL
441
2 tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 1 dessert-
spoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped
onion, salt and pepper. 1 egg, breadcrumbs, frying-fat, flour. Tomato
sauce.
Method.— Wash and scald the calves’ feet, bone the upper part,
remove the shank-bone, split them in two, and soak them in cold
water for 2 hours. Put them in a stewpan with some salt, cover with
cold water, bring to the boil, and drain. Return to the stewpan with
as much cold water as will cover the feet, add the peppercorns, onion
and carrot (sliced), and cook slowly until tender. Take away the rest
of the bones, press the feet until cold, then slice them, set them in a
deep dish, pour over the marinade, and let them remain in it for 1 hour,
basting or turning occasionally, in order that both sides may be
equally flavoured. Season a heaped teaspoonful of flour with salt and
pepper ; drain the slices of meat well, dip each piece in the flour, brush
over with beaten egg, toss in crumbs, and fry in hot fat until nicely
browned. Serve with tomato sauce.
Time. — From 3 to 3^- hours to boil the feet. Average Cost, is. 6d.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
707.— CALF’S HEAD, COLLARED (Cold).
( Fr . — Tete de Veau Farcie.)
Ingredients. — A calves’ head, 1 lb. of lean uncooked ham, 2 hard-boiled
eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of finely-chopped parsley, ground mace, nutmeg,
salt and pepper. For the stock : 1 or 2 onions, 1 carrot, \ a turnip,
1 strip of celery, a bouquet garni (i.e., parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 12
peppercorns.
Method. — Cut the head in half, take out the brains, dress and
serve them with the tongue as a separate dish. Wash the
head in several waters, and afterwards let it soak for 12 hours
in salted water, which should be changed several times. Put it
into a saucepan with a handful of salt, cover with cold water,
bring to the boil, then drain, and wash well in cold water. Return
to the saucepan, cover with cold water, boil, skim well, then add
the prepared vegetables, bouquet-garni, peppercorns, salt to taste,
and cook gently for i-i- to 2 hours, or until the bones can be easily
removed. When the head is boned, spread it out on the table, season well
with salt and pepper, sprinkle on it a little mace and nutmeg, dis-
tribute the narrow strips of ham and slices of boiled egg evenly over
the surface, add the parsley and a little more flavouring and seasoning,
then roll up tightly, and wrap and tie securely in a pudding-cloth.
Have the slock boiling in the saucepan, put in the head, and cook
gently for 2 hours. When cool, tighten the cloth, and press between 2
dishes or boards until cold.
Time. — To cook, about 4 hours. Average Cost, from 7s. to 9s. Cd.
4
442 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
708. — CALF’S HEAD, COLLARED (Hot).
Ingredients. — A calf’s head. For the forcemeat : the calf’s brains and
tongue, 2 tablespoonfuls of breadcrumbs, 1 dessertspoonful of finely-
chopped parsley, 1 level teaspoonful of mixed herbs, the grated rind
of a lemon, 2 eggs, salt and pepper. For the sauce : 1 pint of the stock,
i|- ozs. of butter, 1 \ ozs. of flour, 1 tablespoonful of cooked coarsely-
chopped mushrooms, 1 tablespoonful of coarsely-chopped gherkins,
the juice of 1 lemon. For the stock : see preceding recipe.
Method. — Prepare blanch, and partially boil the head as directed
in the preceding recipe. Boil the tongue in the same saucepan, remove
the skin, and chop it finely. Wash the brains in several waters, let
them remain in salt and water until wanted, then tie loosely in a piece
of muslin, boil with the head for about \ an hour, and when cool chop
coarsely. Mix the tongue, brains, breadcrumbs, parsley, herbs and
lemon-rind together, add a liberal seasoning of salt and pepper, and
beaten egg in sufficient quantity to thoroughly moisten the whole.
Bone, flatten, and season the head, spread on the forcemeat, roll up
tightly in a cloth, and cook gently for 2 hours. When nearly ready,
melt the butter in a stewpan, stir in the flour, and cook for 5 minutes.
Add to the roux or thickening a pint of stock from the saucepan, stir
until it boils, simmer gently for 10 minutes, then put in the mushrooms,
gherkins, lemon-juice, and seasoning to taste. Serve the head on a hot
dish, garnished with cut lemon, and the sauce separately in a tureen.
Time. — About 4 hours. Average Cost, from 7 s. to 9s. 6d.
709. — CALF’S HEAD, BOILED. (Fr.— Tete de Veau
Bouillie.)
Ingredients. — A calf’s head. For the stock : 1 or 2 onions, 1 or 2
carrots, 1 small turnip, 2 strips of celery, a bouquet-garni (parsley,
thyme, bay-leaf), 12 peppercorns, salt. For the sauce : 1^ oz. of
butter, 1^ ozs. of flour, -J- a pint of stock, \ a pint of milk, lemon-juice
1 dessertspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 1 egg, browned bread-
crumbs.
Method. — Prepare and blanch the head in the usual manner, return
it to the saucepan, cover with cold water, bring to the boil, skim
well, then add the prepared vegetables, herbs, peppercorns, salt to
taste, and simmer from 2 to 2\ hours, according to size. Boil the
tongue at the same time. Wash the brains in several waters, let them,
remain in salt and water until wanted, then tie loosely in a piece of
muslin, boil with the head for about \ an hour, and when cool, chop
coarsely and use for the sauce. The head may be served plainly-
boiled, but it presents a better appearance when it has been coated
with egg and brown breadcrumbs, and baked for 20 minutes in the oven,
being frequently basted during the time. It is more easily carved,
and the various parts are more evenly distributed when the bones are
RECIPES FOR COOKING VEAL
443
removed, and the head rolled, before baking ; it must be bound with
strong tape, and the bare parts under the tape sprinkled with bread-
crumbs before serving. About •§• an hour before the head is ready to
serve, melt the butter in a stewpan, add the flour and cook for 5 minutes,
then pour in the milk and \ a pint of liquor from the pot in which the
head is cooking. Stir until it boils, simmer for 10 minutes, add the
prepared brains, parsley, lemon-juice, and seasoning to taste. Remove
the skin *from the tongue, and cut it into thin slices. Place the head
on a hot dish (if not egged and breadcrumbed, brush over with glaze),
garnish with slices of tongue and lemon, and serve the sauce in a
tureen. A piece of boiled ham or bacon is occasionally served as an
accompaniment to this dish.
Time. — To cook, about 4 hours. Average Cost, 5s. 6d. to 8s.
710. — CALF’S HEAD, FRIED. (Fr.— Fritot de Tete
de Veau.)
Ingredients. — The remains of a cooked calf’s head. For the marinade :
2 tablespoonfuls of salad oil or melted butter, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-
juice or vinegar, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped shallot or onion, 1
teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, \ teaspoonful of mixed herbs,
salt and pepper. For the batter : 4 ozs. of flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of
salad oil, J of a pint of tepid water, the whites of 2 eggs, salt. Frying-
fat.
Method. — Cut the meat into strips about 2\ inches long and 1 inch
wide, place them in a deep dsh, pour over the marinade, and allow the
strips to remain in it for at least 1 hour. Mix the flour, salt, salad-oil, and
water smoothly together; whisk the white of egg stiffly, and stir it
lightly into the batter. Drain the pieces of meat well, dip them into the
batter, and fry in hot fat until nicely browned. Pile on a hot dish,
and garnish with fried parsley. When a more elaborate dish is re-
quired, the fried strips may be dished in a circle on a border of
mashed potato, with the centre filled with a puree of spinach, asparagus
points, or whatever may be preferred, and either tomato or a good
brown sauce poured round.
Time. — 1} hours. Average Cost, 8d., exclusive of the meat.
71 1. —CALF’S HEAD WITH POULETTE SAUCE.
(Fr. — Tete de Veau a la Poulette.)
Ingredients. — Some boned boiled calf’s head, 1 pint of white sauce ( see
Sauces), 1 tablespoonful of cream, the yolk of 1 egg, 1 dessertspoonful
of finely-chopped parsley, lemon-juice to taste, salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the remains of the calf’s head into nice slices. Make
the white sauce as directed ; let it cool slightly, then add the yolk of
egg and cream, previously mixed together, and stir the mixture by
444
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
the side of the fire for 2 or 3 minutes, but the sauce must not boil, or the
egg may curdle. Put in the meat, parsley, lemon-juice, add seasoning
to taste, cover closely, and stand the stewpan in the bain-marie, or
in a tin of hot water, until the meat is thoroughly hot, then serve.
Time. — About 30 minutes, after the white sauce is made. Average
Cost, 7s. 6d. to 8s. 6d.
712. — CALF’S HEAD WITH TOMATO SAUCE.
(Fr. — Tete de Veau a la Tomate.)
Ingredients. — Half a boned calf’s head, £ pint °f tomato sauce
(see Sauces), 3 or 4 ozs. of macaroni, salt and pepper.
Method. — Break the macaroni into pieces about £- of an inch long, put
these into salted boiling water, and boil rapidly until tender. Cut the
remains of the calf’s head into slices convenient for serving. Have
the tomato sauce ready in a stewpan, add to it the macaroni and meat,
season to taste, make thoroughly hot, and serve.
Time. — About £ an hour. Average Cost, from 3s. 9d. to 4s. 9d.
713. — CALF’S HEAD WITH MAITRE D’HOTEL
SAUCE. ( Fr . — Tete de Veau a la Maitre
d’ Hotel.)
Ingredients. — The remains of a calf’s head, 1 pint of white sauce (see
Sauces) 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1 dessertspoonful of finely-
chopped parsley salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the meat into pieces convenient for serving. Make
the sauce as directed put in the pieces of calf’s head and let them
become thoroughly hot, then add the parsley and lemon- juice, season
to taste and serve.
Time. — 15 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. exclusive of the calf’s head.
714. — CALF’S HEAD, HASHED.
Ingredients.— | a calf’s head veal forcemeat (see Forcemeats) a few
rashers of bacon, 1 pint of liquor in which the head was cooked 1 glass
of sherry, 12 button mushrooms, 1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of flour. For
the brain cakes : 2 eggs, breadcrumbs, salt, pepper, mace, herbs. For
the stock : 2 onions, 2 carrots, 1 turnip, 2 strips of celery, 10 peppercorns,
a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), salt.
Method. — Prepare and blanch the head as directed in “ Calf’s Head,
Collared,” return it to the saucepan, bring to the boil, skim well, add
the prepared vegetables, herbs, peppercorns, and salt to taste, and
simmer gently until the bones can be easily removed. Drain the head,
strain the stock, put 1 quart of it into a stewpan, and boil rapidly to
reduce. Remove the bones from the head, cut the meat into pieces
RECIPES FOR COOKING VEAL
445
iC inches square, skin the tongue, and cut it into \ inch dice. Wash
the brains in 3 or 4 waters, let them remain in salt and water until
wanted, then tie them in a piece of muslin, boil with the head for \ an
hour, and make into cakes ( see Brain Cakes, No. 695 ). Make the force-
meat as directed, shape into balls, and either bake or fry them in hot
fat for about 15 minutes ; roll the rashers of bacon, run a skewer
through them, and either fry or bake until crisp. Knead the flour
and butter together, add the mixture to the reduced stock, and when
smoothly mixed put in the pieces of calf’s head, tongue, mushrooms
(previously cooked and cut into 2 or 4 pieces, according to their size).
Season to taste, cover closely, simmer gently for \ an hour, then add
the sherry, and serve. Garnish with the forcemeat balls, brain cakes,
and rolls of bacon.
Time.— 2\ to 3 hours. Average Cost, 5s. to 6s. Sufficient for 6 or 7
persons.
715. — CALF’S HEAD, MOULDED.
Ingredients. — The remains of a calf’s head. To 1 lb. allow £ a lb.
of ham or bacon, 3 hard-boiled eggs, the finely-grated rind of 1 lemon,
1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, \ a pint (about) of reduced
stock in which the head was cooked, a pinch each of nutmeg, ground
mace, and ground cloves, salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the remains of the calf’s head and ham or bacon into
dice, cut the eggs into sections or slices, and arrange some of them in a
pattern on the bottom of a buttered mould or basin ; mix the parsley,
lemon-rind, flavourings and seasonings together. Cover the bottom
of the mould with a thick layer of calf’s head, on the top of it place a
thin layer of ham or bacon, add a few slices of egg, and sprinkle well
with the flavouring mixture. Repeat until the mould is full, pour
in the warm stock, cover with a greased paper, and bake for about 2
hours in a slow oven. Add a little more hot stock as soon as the mould
leaves the oven. When cold, turn out of the mould, garnish with small
tufts of parsley, and serve.
Time.— To cook, about 2 hours. Average Cost, 2s. 9d. to 3s. 6d.
Sufficient for 6 persons.
716. — CALF’S HEAD PIE. (Fr.— Pate de Tete de
Veau.)
Ingredients. — The remains of a calf’s head, \ a lb. of raw ham or bacon,
forcemeat balls ( see Forcemeats), 2 hard-boiled eggs, \ a pint of stock
in which the head was cooked, I of a teaspoonful of mixed herbs, the
grated rind of ^ a lemon, a pinch of ground mace, a pinch of grated
nutmeg, salt and pepper, puff or rough puff paste.
Method. — Cut the meat into small thin slices, cut the ham or bacon
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
446
into narrow strips, cut the eggs into thin slices, mix the force-
meat rather stiffly with a little raw egg, and shape into small balls.
Put a fairly thick layer of calf’s head on the bottom of a piedish, cover
with a thin layer of ham or bacon, add a few slices of egg, and a good
sprinkling of salt, pepper, herbs, mace, nutmeg, and lemon-rind.
Repeat until the dish is full, add the stock, and cover with the pastry,
Bake in a moderately hot oven for about 1 hour, when cooked pour in,
through the hole on the top, a little hot jellied stock, and set aside
until cold.
Time. — To bake, about 1 hour. Average Cost, 3s. 6d. to 4s. 6d.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
717. — CALF’S KIDNEY WITH SCRAMBLED EGGS.
( Fr . — Rognons aux Oeufs Brouilles.)
Ingredients. — 1 large or 2 small calf’s kidneys, \ a pint of Espagnole
sauce ( see sauces), \ of a pint of gravy or good stock, 1 glass of sherry,
2 ozs. of butter, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 2 shallots
or 1 very small onion finely chopped, 4 eggs, 1 tablespoonful of milk
(about), salt and pepper.
Method. — Boil the sauce and gravy together for \ an hour, then add
the sherry. Remove all fat and skin from the kidney, cut it into very
thin slices, and season well with salt and pepper. Melt half the butter
in a saute-pan or frying-pan, fry the shallots lightly, add the slices of
kidney, and fry quickly on both sides, shaking the pan meanwhile
over the fire. Pour the sauce over the kidney, draw the pan to the
side of the fire, and cook slowly for 10 or 1 5 minutes. Beat up the eggs,
add to them about 1 tablespoonful of milk and season to taste.
Melt the remainder of the butter in a stewpan, pour in the eggs, cook
very gently, and stir until they thicken. Arrange the kidney in a circle
on a hot dish, pour the sauce round, and pile the scrambled eggs in the
centre. Sprinkle the parsley over the whole, and serve.
Time. — From 50 to 60 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. Sufficient for
4 or 5 persons.
718. — CALF’S LIVER BRAISED. Fr. — (Foie de Veau,
Braise.)
Ingredients. — A small calf’s liver, a few strips of larding-bacon, £
a pint of brown sauce ( see Sauces), £ of a pint of good stock, 1 glass
of port wine, the juice of \ a lemon, 1 small onion sliced, 1 small carrot
sliced, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 1 blade of mace,
1 bay-leaf, 6 peppercorns, 1 clove, a small slice of ham or bacon cut
into strips, 1 oz. of butter.
Method. — Soak the liver in cold water for 20 minutes, then drain,
dry well, and insert the strips of bacon, which should be about £ of an
RECIPES FOR COOKING VEAL
447
inch thick and ij inches long. Melt the butter in a shallow stewpan,
add the onion, carrot, and ham, fry slightly, then put in the liver and
let it brown. Pour off the fat, add the brown sauce, stock, bouquet-
garni, mace, bay-leaf, and simmer gently for about i hour. Then add
the wine, lemon-juice and parsley, boil, simmer for io minutes longer,
remove the liver to a hot dish, strain the sauce over, and serve.
Time. — About i\ hours. Average Cost, 2s. to 2s. 6d.
719. — CALF’S LIVER WITH ONION PUREE.
(Fr.— Foie de Veau a la Clermont.)
Ingredients. — §• lb. of calves’ liver, 1 large Spanish onion, 2 ozs. of
butter, \ a pint °f Espagnole sauce ( see Sauces), £ of a pint of stock,
1 tablespoonful of flour, salt and pepper, a little finely-chopped parsley.
Method. — Peel and blanch the onion, cut it into very small dice, fry
in \ of the butter until lightly browned, then add the stock, and cook
slowly until reduced to a thick puree, adding the brown sauce gradually
as the stock boils away. Cut the liver into slices about § of an inch
in thickness, cut off the corners and trim to a uniform oval or round
shape. Mix the flour, a teaspoonful of salt, and a I of a teaspoonful
of pepper together on a plate, and dip the slices of liver in the mixture.
Melt the remaining oz. of butter in a saute-pan, and fry the liver on
both sides until nicely browned and firm to the touch, then drain well.
Season the onion puree to taste, spread it lightly on a hot dish, arrange
the slices of liver on the top, sprinkle with parsley, and serve.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, is. 8d. Sufficient for 3 or 4
persons.
720. — CALF’S LIVER AND BACON.
(Fr. — Fritot de Foie de Veau.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of calf’s liver, a lb. of bacon, 1 oz. of butter, flour,
salt and pepper.
Method. — Wash and dry the liver, and cut it into slices about J of an
inch in thickness ; add a good seasoning of salt and pepper to a
dessertspoonful of flour, and dip the pieces of liver in the mixture.
Heat the frying pan, put in the bacon, cut into thin slices, fry slowly,
remove to a hot tin, and keep hot until wanted. Fry the liver in the
bacon fat until nicely browned on both sides, then remove to a hot dish.
Pour away the bacon fat, add the butter (the bacon fat may be used
instead when not disliked), sprinkle in about a tablespoonful of flour,
stir and fry until brown. Add about \ a pint of warm water, stir until
it boils, and season to taste. Arrange the pieces of liver in a close
circle, strain the gravy over, place the slices of bacon on the top, and
serve. If preferred, the gravy may be served separately in a tureen,
and the rashers of bacon curled before frying, and piled in the centre
of the liver.
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
448
Time. — About 35 or 40 minutes. Average Cost, is. 4d. Sufficient
for 4 or 5 persons.
721. — CALF’S LIVER WITH PIQUANTE SAUCE.
(Fr. — Foie de Veau a la Sauce Piquante.)
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of calf’s liver, frying fat. For the sauce : \ a pint
of water, 1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, 4 shallots or 1 small onion finely-
chopped, 2 gherkins coarsely-chopped, 3 tablespoonfuls of vinegar,
salt and pepper.
Method. — Wash and dry the liver thoroughly, and cut it into neat
slices. Mix 1 tablespoonful of flour, a teaspoonful of salt and | of a
teaspoonful of pepper together, and dip the pieces of liver in the mix-
ture. Place the shallots or onion, gherkins and vinegar in a small
stewpan, boil rapidly for 10 minutes, and keep it hot. Fry the liver in
hot fat until lightly cooked and nicely browned, then remove and keep
it as hot as possible. Pour away any fat that remains in the frying-
pan, but leave all the brown sediment, add the butter, and when
hot sprinkle in the flour. Stir and fry slowly until well browned, add
the water and seasoning to taste, stir until boiling, simmer gently for 5
minutes, then strain and mix with the vinegar, etc. Arrange the liver
neatly on a hot dish, pour the sauce round, and serve as hot as possible.
Time. — To fry the liver, 5 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. Sufficient for
6 or 8 persons. Seasonable at any time.
722. — CALF’S HEART, BAKED. (Fr.— Coeur de
Veau Roti.)
Ingredients. — A calf’s heart, veal forcemeat ( see Forcemeats), a few
rashers of bacon, salt and pepper, fat, brown gravy ( see Gravies).
Method. — Wash the heart in several waters, let it remain in cold water
1 hour, then drain, and dry thoroughly. Fill the inside with forcemeat,
tie a piece of oiled or buttered paper round it, and bake in a moderate
oven for about 2 hours. Baste well, and about \ an hour before serving
remove the paper and dredge well with flour. The gravy in the tin
may be used to enrich or form the basis of the brown gravy. Make this
hot and pour round the dish. Garnish with fried bacon.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost. 9d. to is. 6d. Sufficient for
4 or 5 persons.
723. — CREPINETTES OF VEAL. (Fr.— Crepinettes
de Veau.)
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of cooked lean veal, 1 oz. of cooked ham or tongue,
4 preserved mushrooms, 1 small truffle, 6 or 7 tablespoonfuls of spinach
puree, 1 egg, a good pinch of grated lemon-rind, a small pinch of nutmeg,
salt and pepper, pig’s caul, meat glaze, 5 or 6 oval paper cases.
RECIPES FOR COOKING VEAL
449
Method. — Prepare the spinach puree ( see Vegetables), mince the veal
and ham very finely, cut the mushrooms and truffles into fine short
strips, add the lemon-rind, nutmeg, season to taste, mix well together,
and bind with the egg. Cut the caul into pieces about 4 inches long,
and inches wide, shape the mixture into small oval forms, 2 inches
long, and nearly ij inches wide, fold them in the caul, and bake in a
moderate oven for 7 or 8 minutes. Put the spinach puree into a stew-
pan, add a tablespoonful of good gravy or cream, dredge in a little flour,
season with salt and pepper, and when thoroughly hot, put a table-
spoonful into each paper case. Brush the crepinettes over with glaze,
place them in the cases, and serve. The crepinettes may also be egged,
breadcrumbed, fried, and served on a bed of spinach ( see. Boudinettes
of Veal, p. 43s).
Time. — 20 to 25 minutes, after the spinach is cooked. Average Cost,
is., exclusive of the meat. Sufficient for 6 or 7 crepinettes.
724.— CROQUETTES OF VEAL. (Fr. — Croquettes
de Veau.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of cold veal, 1 oz. of butter or dripping, \ an oz.
of flour, 4 of a pint of stock, the rind of \ a lemon grated, 1 teaspoonful
of finely-chopped parsley, a good pinch of nutmeg, 1 egg, breadcrumbs,
frying-fat, salt and pepper.
Method. — Chop the meat finely, and boil the bones and trimmings,
for the stock. Melt the fat or butter in a stewpan, add the flour
pour in the stock, and stir until it boils (this sauce is intended to bind
the mixture, when more convenient an egg may be used instead), boil
the sauce 2 or 3 minutes, then add the meat, parsley, lemon-rind,
nutmeg, salt and pepper to taste, and stir well over the fire. Turn
on to a plate, when cool form into cork shaped pieces, brush over
with beaten egg, coat well with breadcrumbs, and fry until nicely
browned in hot fat.
Time. — From i-J to 2 hours. Aveirgi Cost, 4d., exclusive of the meat.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Note. — A properly made croquette or rissole is dry and crisp on the outside, and
very moist inside, but the mixture must of necessity be made moderately dry
unless the liquid used in its preparation contains the stiffening properties
of gelatine, for when it lacks a certain degree of firmness it is moulded with
great difficulty. All that is required to obtain a moist, in fact, almost liquid
rissole, is to add to the mixture a considerable amount of stock that will
form a jelly when cold, and when re-heated will again become liquid.
Names of Calves, — The young male calf, during the period it is dependent upon his mother, is
called a bull, or ox-calf ; when one year old he is termed a stirk, stot, or yearling. On the completion
of bis second year he is known as a two-year-old bull or steer — in some counties a stinter — and at
four an ox, or a bullock, names which he bears until his death. The term “ ox ” is used as a general
appellation for neat cattle and irrespective of sex, as the British ox, the Indian ox, etc. The female
during its first year is termed a cow-calf ; at the age of one year a yearling quey ; a year later a heifer,
or twin ter ; when three years old a three-year-old quey, or twinter, and on arriving at the age of four
and afterwards, a cow. In different districts provincial names are current.
Q
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
450
725. — CROUSTADES OF CALF’S BRAINS.
(Fr.- — Croustades aux Cervelles.)
Ingredients. — 1 set calf’s brains, a little cooked tongue, \ a pint of
good white sauce ( see Sauces), 1 tablespoonful of cream, the yolk of
1 egg, a good pinch of mace, a few drops of lemon-juice, vinegar,
salt and pepper, 1 small onion, short crust paste.
Method. — Line some small, deep, oval or round moulds, thinly with
paste, (dariol moulds may be made to serve), prick the bottoms to pre-
vent them blistering, line them with buttered paper, and fill with rice.
Bake in a moderately-hot oven, then remove the paper and rice, take
the cases out of the moulds, and return them to the oven until they
become crisp and lightly browned. Wash the brains rvell in salt and
water, and boil them until firm in water, to which must be added 1
tablespoonful of vinegar, 1 teaspoonful of salt, and 1 small onion
(sliced). Drain well, and cut into small dice, also cut the tongue into
dice. Have ready the white sauce, add to it the dice of tongue and
brains, cream, lemon-juice, mace, seasoning, yolk of egg, and stir by the
side of the fire until the mixture is thoroughly hot and the egg cooked.
Fill the pastry cases with the mixture, sprinkle on the top of each a
little finely-chopped truffle or a few panurette breadcrumbs, and serve
either hot or cold.
Time.— About 1 hour. Average Cost, 6d., exclusive of the paste and
brains. Sufficient, allow 8 croustades for 6 persons.
726. — CURRY OF VEAL. (Fr.— Kari de Veau.)
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of neck, breast or fillet of veal, 1 pint of stock
or water, 2 ozs. of butter, 1 tablespoonful of flour, 1 tablespoonful of
curry-powder, 1 teaspoonful of curry-paste, 1 sour apple, 2 small
onions coarsely-chopped, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, salt, 4 ozs. of
rice.
Method. — Cut the meat into pieces about inches square, and fry
them in the hot butter until lightly browned. Lift the pieces of
meat on to a plate, sprinkle in the flour and curry-powder, add the
onion, and fry gently for 10 minutes. Add the stock, curry-paste,
sliced apple, salt to taste, boil, replace the meat, and cook gently
from 2 to 2\ hours. Boil the rice, drain, and dry well. When the
meat is tender remove it to a hot dish, season the sauce to taste, add
the lemon- juice and strain over the meat. The rice should be
served separately.
Time. — From 2\ to 3 hours. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. to 2s. pd. Sufficient
for 5 or 6 persons.
RECIPES FOR COOKING VEAL
451
727. — CUTLETS BROILED WITH ITALIAN SAUCE.
(Fr. — Cotelettesde Veau a lTtalienne.)
Ingredients. — i£ lb. of fillet or neck of veal, \ a pint of Italian sauce.
No. 252, 1 egg, breadcrumbs, salt and pepper, clarified butter.
Method. — Divide the meat into thin slices, which afterwards trim into
neat cutlets. Dip them in egg seasoned with salt and pepper, coat
with breadcrumbs, and afterwards with clarified butter. Broil the
cutlets over a clear fire, brushing them over occasionally with clarified
butter, to prevent the breadcrumbs burning. Arrange neatly on a hot
dish, pour the sauce round, and serve.
Time. — To broil, from 10 to 15 minutes. Average Cost, neck of veal,
iod. to is.; fillet, is. to is. 2d.
728. — VEAL COLLOPS. ( Fr . — Paupiettes de Veau.)
Ingredients. — ij- lb. of fillet of veal, a few slices of bacon, forcemeat,
No. 396, 1 egg, breadcrumbs, fat for frying, 1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of
flour, mace, salt and pepper, lemon-juice.
Method. — Cut the meat into very thin strips 3 inches long and 2 inches
wide, cover with thin pieces of bacon the same size, season well with
salt and pepper, and spread lightly with forcemeat. Roll up lightly,
coat carefully with egg and breadcrumbs, and fry gently in hot fat,
turning frequently so as to brown the entire surface. Remove and
keep hot, drain away any fat that remains, but preserve the sediment.
Put in the butter, and as soon as it is hot sprinkle in the flour, and cook
gently until lightly browned. Add -J- of a pint of boiling water, 1
tablespoonful of lemon-juice, a pinch of ground mace, salt and pepper
to taste, and simmer gently for 5 minutes. Arrange the collops on a
hot dish, strain the sauce round, then serve.
Time. — To fry the collops, about 20 minutes. Average Cost, is. to
is. 2d. per lb. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
729. — FILLETS OF VEAL. (Fr. — Filets de Veau.)
Ingredients. — 1-} lb. of fillet of veal, a few slices of bacon, 2 ozs. of
butter, 1 egg, breadcrumbs, the grated rind of 1 lemon, 1 teaspoonful
of lemon-juice, a teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 1 of a tea-
spoonful of thyme, a pint of tomato sauce, brown sauce, or sauce
made with the following ingredients : 4- a pint of white stock, \ an oz.
of flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, \ a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, a
small piece of meat glaze, salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the veal into slices about \ an inch in thickness, and
each slice into rounds 2J or 2} inches in diameter. Beat the egg, add
to it the parsley, thyme, lemon-rind, lemon-juice, dip each fillet in the
452
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
mixture, coat with breadcrumbs, and fry in hot butter, in a saute-pan.
When nicely browned on both sides take them out of the pan, and keep
them hot. Add the flour to the butter in the pan, fry lightly, pour
in the stock, stir till it boils, then add the lemon-juice, cream and glaze,
season to taste, and simmer for 2 or 3 minutes. The fillets may be
dished in a circle on a border of mashed potato, with the rolls of bacon
piled in the centre, or in two rows alternately with fried, thin, stamped-
out rounds of bacon of equal size. The sauce should be strained and
poured round the dish.
Time. About \ an hour. Average Cost, 2s. 3d. to 2s. 6d. Sufficient for
7 to g persons.
The Golden Calf. — In the Book of Genesis we are told that Aaron, constrained by the impatient
Israelites during the lengthened absence of Moses in the Mount, made a golden calf from the golden
earrings presented by the people, to represent the Elohim which brought the Children of Israel out
of the land of Egypt. The “ Golden Calf ” was probably a wooden figure of a calf overlaid with plates
of gold, fashioned in a similar manner to the gilded ox covered with a pall, which the Egyptian re-
garded as the symbol of Osiris, one of the great Egyptian divinities, and the king of the gods and J udge
of the Dead. The offerings, dancing, and rejoicings which the Israelites practised were probably
identical with the ceremony with which Mnevis, one of the three kinds of sacred bulls, was wor-
shipped in Egypt : hence the punishment inflicted upon the people by Moses.
730. — FILLETS OF VEAL, TALLEYRAND STYLE.
( Fr . — Filets de Veau a la Talleyrand.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of fillet or cushion of veal, ozs. of butter, 2 shal-
lots finely-chopped, 1 dessertspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 6 pre-
served mushrooms, the juice of a lemon, \ of a pint of white sauce,
the yolks of 2 eggs, salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the meat into 6 or 7 pieces of equal size and thickness,
flatten slightly with a cutlet-bat, and trim into a round or oval form.
Melt the butter in a saute or frying-pan, put in the cutlets, and cook them
thoroughly, but do not allow them to acquire much colour. Have the
white sauce nearly boiling in a small stewpan, put in the fillets, cover,
and draw to the side of the stove. Cut the mushrooms into small
pieces, add them, together with the shallots, to the butter in the saute-
pan, fry for a few minutes without browning, then turn the contents
of the saute-pan into the stewpan, simmer very gently until the fdlets
are tender, then cool slightly. Add the lemon-juice, parsley, yolks of
eggs, season to taste, and stir gently by the side of the fire until the sauce
thickens, but it must not boil, or the eggs may curdle. Dish the fdlets
in a single row on a foundation of mashed potato, which helps to keep
them in position, pour the sauce over them carefully, in order that
every part may be equally coated, and serve.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 2s. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
731. — FRICASSEE OF CALF’S FEET. (Fr.— Pieds
de Veau en Fricassee.)
Ingredients. — 4 cooked calves’ feet (those which have been boded
down for jelly may be used), 1 pint of white sauce ( see Sauces), 1 tea-
RECIPES FOR COOKING VEAL
453
spoonful of finely-chopped parsley, i teaspoonful of lemon-juice, 2
tablespoonfuls of small dice of cooked ham or bacon, salt and pepper,
nutmeg.
Method. — Remove all the bones, and cut the meat into pieces of equal
size. Make the white sauce as directed, add to it the ham or bacon,
the pieces of calves’ feet, and let the stewpan stand by the side of the
fire until the contents are thoroughly hot; then put in the parsley
and lemon-juice, season to taste, and serve.
Time. — 10 to 15 minutes. Average Cost, is. to is. 6d. Sufficient
for 6 to 8 persons.
732. — FILLET OF VEAL STEWED. (Fr.— Filet de
veau etuve.)
Ingredients. — 3 lb. of fillet of veal, forcemeat, No. 396, ozs.
of butter, i£ ozs. of flour, 1 oz. of dripping, a few fresh mushrooms when
obtainable, lemon-juice, mace, salt and pepper, 1 pint of stock or
water, vegetables if necessary.
Method. — Flatten the meat well with a cutlet-bat or rolling-pin,
spread on the forcemeat, roll up and tie securely with tape. Melt
the dripping in a stewpan, fry the meat until the entire surface is
nicely browned, then drain off the fat. Add the mushrooms, stock or
water, and if using the latter add a little sliced onion, carrot and
turnip, and a good seasoning of salt and pepper. Cover closely, simmer
gently for 2 hours, taking care that the stock or water is kept just at
simmering point. Meanwhile melt the butter in a stewpan, add the
flour, stir and cook gently until nicely browned, and when ready,
add the strained liquor in which the veal has been cooked. Stir until
boiling, simmer gently for 10 minutes, then add the lemon-juice, and
season to taste. Serve the meat on a hot dish with a little sauce poured
over, and the remainder in a tureen.
Time. — About 2\ hours. Average Cost, 4s. Sufficient for 10 or 12
persons. Seasonable at any time.
733. — FRICANDEAU OF VEAL WITH SORREL.
(Fr.— Fricandeau de Veau a l’Oseille.)
Ingredients. — 3 lb. of fillet of veal, larding bacon, 2 ozs. of butter,
2 onions, 2 carrots, 1 turnip, 2 strips of celery, a bouquet-garni (parsley,
thyme, bay-leaf), 2 cloves, 2 blades of mace, 6 peppercorns, -J- a pint
of stock, glaze, 1^ lb. of sorrel puree.
Method. — Lard the veal in close rows. Put the vegetables and the
butter into a stewpan, lay the meat on the top, cover, and fry gently
for about 20 minutes ; then add the stock, bouquet-garni, mace, cloves,
peppercorns, and salt, cover with a greased paper, put on the lid, and
454
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
braise for 3 hours, adding more stock as that in the stewpan reduces.
When done, put in the oven on a baking-sheet for a few minutes, to
crisp the bacon, brush over with glaze, and place on a hot dish. Add
a little glaze to the liquor in the stewpan, skim, strain, season to taste,
and serve in a sauce-boat, garnish the dish with the sorrel puree, and
serve. Spinach may be used instead of sorrel.
Time. — 3^ to 3J hours. Average Cost, about 5s. Sufficient for 8 or
9 persons.
734. — FRICASSEE OF CALF’S HEAD. (Fr.—‘ Tete de
Veau en Fricassee.)
Ingredients. — -J- a calf’s head, 1 pint of the liquor in which the head
was boiled, i-l- ozs. of butter 1-^ ozs. of flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream,
the yolks of 2 eggs, the juice of 1 lemon, a good pinch of mace, salt and
pepper, rolls of fried bacon, forcemeat balls ( see Forcemeats).
Method. — Prepare and boil the calf’s head as directed in the recipe
for “ Calf’s Head Collared ” (the remains of a calf’s head may be used),
remove the bones, and cut the meat into pieces ijj- inches square. Melt
the butter in a stewpan, fry the flour for a few minutes without brown-
ing, then add the stock, stir until it boils, and simmer gently for 10
minutes. Add the mace, seasoning to taste, put in the pieces of meat,
cover closely, and draw the stewpan to the side of the stove for about
20 minutes. Shape the forcemeat into small balls, and either fry or
bake them until nicely browned. Place the rolls of bacon on a skewer
and fry or bake them until crisp. Remove the pieces of meat from
the sauce, and arrange them on a hot dish in a pile. Have ready the
cream and yolks of eggs mixed lightly together, add these to the sauce,
and stir by the side of the fire until they thicken, but the sauce must
on no account be allowed to boil. Add the lemon-juice, season to taste,
and strain over the meat. Garnish with the forcemeat balls and rolls
of bacon, and serve.
Time. — After the calf’s head is boiled, nearly 1 hour. Average Cost,
4s. to 5s. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
735. — GALANTINE OF VEAL. Galantine de
Veau.)
Ingredients. — A small breast of veal, i|- or 2 lb. of. sausage meat, 2
or 3 rashers of bacon (ham or tongue may be substituted), 1 hard-
boiled egg, glaze ( see p. 137), salt, pepper, a grate of nutmeg,
ground mace, ground cloves.
Method. — Bone the veal, and flatten it out on the table. Season
well with salt and pepper, spread on \ the sausage meat in an even
layer, distribute narrow strips of bacon and slices of egg over the sur-
face, add mace, nutmeg, and cloves in very small quantities, and a liberal
RECIPES FOR COOKING VEAL
•155
seasoning of salt and pepper, and cover with the remainder of the sau-
sage meat. Roll the meat up tightly, wrap it in a pudding cloth,
secure the ends with string, put the roll into boiling stock, or into boiling
water, to which has been added the veal bones, i or 2 onions, 1 of 2
small carrots, 1 turnip, celery, salt and peppercorns, and cook gently
for 3 or hours. When cooked and nearly cold take off the cloth,
which always becomes loose, re-roll, tie tightly as before, and press
the galantine between two boards or dishes until cold. Before serving
brush over with glaze, and garnish with parsley, and, if liked, some
fancifully-shaped, or coarsely-chopped aspic jelly.
Time. — From 3 to 3J hours, to boil the galantine. Average Cost,
is. per lb.
When Calves should be Killed. — A calf should not be killed under 4 weeks ; the flesh prior
to that time lacks firmness, due development of muscular fibre, and is deficient in the animal juices
on which the flavour and nutritive properties of the flesh depend. The calf is considered to be in
prime condition at 10 weeks, and should then weigh from 16 to 18 stone.
736. — GATEAU OF COLD VEAL. (Fr.— Gateau de
Veau.)
Ingredients. — \ lb. of cold veal (or veal and ham mixed), 2 tablespoon-
fuls of white breadcrumbs, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley
\ teaspoonful of grated lemon-rind, a pinch of nutmeg, 1 egg, 1 or 2
tablespoonfuls of gravy or milk, a few browned breadcrumbs, pint of
gravy.
Method. — Grease a round mould or cake tin, and well cover it with
browned breadcrumbs. Put the bones and browned trimmings of the meat
into a stewpan with a little salt and pepper, and boil gently until the
gravy is required, then strain, and season to taste. Chop the meat
finely, add to it the white breadcrumbs, parsley, lemon-rind, nutmeg,
the egg beaten, and as much gravy or milk as will thoroughly moisten
the whole. Season rather highly with salt and pepper, press the
mixture tightly into the cake tin, and bake in a moderate oven for
40 or 45 minutes. Turn out, pour a little gravy round, and serve the
remainder separately.
Time. — About ij hours, altogether. Average Cost, 3d. or 4d., ex-
clusive of the meat. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
737. — GRENADINES OF VEAL. (Fr— Grenadins de
Veau.)
Ingredients. — 1\ lb. of fillet of veal, a few strips of larding bacon, 1
pint of good stock, 2 ozs. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, 1 onion, 1 carrot,
\ a turnip, 2 strips of celery, 6 peppercorns, 1 clove, a bouquet-garni
(parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), meat glaze, salt, pepper.
Method. — Cut the meat into slices about an inch in thickness, and
cut each slice into rounds from 2 to 2\ inches in diameter. Lard the
456
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
grenadines on one side with strips of bacon ij inches long, and about
-J- of an inch wide. Melt i oz. of butter in a stewpan, put in the bouquet-
garni, peppercorns, clove, and the vegetables sliced, lay the grenadines
on the top of them, cover closely, and fry gently for io minutes. Then
add as much stock as will nearly cover the vegetables, and the re-
mainder by degrees, to replace that which boils away. Cover the grena-
dines with a buttered paper, cover closely, and braise for i hour. When
tender, remove the grenadines from the stewpan, put them in a hot
oven for a few minutes, to brown and crisp the bacon, and brush over
with meat glaze. Have ready the brown roux, or thickening, made by
frying the remaining oz. of butter and the flour together until brown,
strain the liquor from the stewpan on to it, boil and stir until smooth,
simmer a few minutes, then season to taste, and use. Dish the grena-
dines in a circle on a border of mashed potato, fill the centre with peas,
asparagus points, or any suitable vegetable, pour the sauce round, and
serve.
Time. — About i| hours. Average Cost, 2S. 3d. to 2s. 6d. Sufficient
for 7 or 8 persons.
738. — GRENADINES OF VEAL. (Fr.— Grenadins de
Veau a la Marchand de vin.)
Ingredients. — \\ lb. of fillet of veal, a few strips of larding bacon,
3 or 4 slices of lean bacon, 2 ozs. of butter, 1 teaspoonful of finely-
chopped parsley, 2 finely-chopped shallots, \ a gill of tomato sauce,
\ a gill of brown sauce, \ a glass of claret, salt and pepper.
Method. — Prepare and lard the grenadines as directed in the previous
recipe. Melt the butter in a small stewpan, fry the shallots in
butter without browning them, pour off * the butter into a saute-or
frying-pan, add the claret to the shallots, and boil until well reduced.
Add the tomato and brown sauces, parsley, season with salt and
pepper, and boil rapidly until considerably reduced. Re-heat the
butter in the saute-pan, and fry the grenadines until lightly browned
on both sides, then pour off the butter, add the reduced sauce, cover
the saute-pan with a lid, and cook gently for about 15 minutes. Take
up the grenadines, arrange them in a circle on a border of mashed
potato, fill the centre with strips of lean bacon, previously fried in the
butter, strain the sauce over the grenadines, and serve.
Time.— About ij hours. Average Cost, 3s. to 3s. 3d. Sufficient for
6 or 7 persons.
739. — HARICOT OF VEAL. (Fr.-Haricot de Veau.)
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of neck of veal, i|- ozs. of butter or dripping,
\\ ozs. of flour, \\ pints of white stock or water, 1 onion, 1 carrot,
1 turnip, salt and pepper.
RECIPES FOR COOKING VEAL
457
Method. — Divide the meat into pieces convenient for serving, cut
the vegetables into small dice, which put aside, and preserve the
trimmings. Heat the butter or fat in a stewpan, fry the meat lightly
on both sides, then remove to a plate. Sprinkle in the flour, fry slowly
until well-browned, then add the stock or water, and stir until boiling.
Season to taste, add the vegetable trimmings, put in the meat, and cover
closely. Simmer very gently for 2 hours, then remove to a hot dish,
strain the sauce over, and garnish with the dice of vegetables, previously
boiled separately until tender.
Time. — 2\ hours. Average Cost, is. iod. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
740. — KNUCKLE OF VEAL, STEWED.
Ingredients. — A knuckle of veal, 5 or 6 lb. in weight, a piece of ham
or bacon to boil, or a few slices to roll and fry, 3 tablespoonfuls of rice,
1 onion, 1 small carrot, 4 a small turnip, 1 strip of celery, a bouquet-
garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), salt and pepper, parsley sauce ( see
Sauces).
Method. — Separate the shank bone, put it with the meat into a sauce-
pan containing sufficient boiling water to cover, bring to the boil,
skim well, add the vegetables (cut into dice), the herbs, and salt to
taste. The ham or bacon should be boiled separately. The veal must
be gently simmered for about 3 hours ; at the end of 2 hours the rice
should be well washed and added to the contents of the saucepan.
Remove the meat from the broth, and keep it hot. Take out the bones
and bouquet-garni, season the broth to taste, and serve separately. Pour
a little parsley sauce over the meat, and serve the remainder in a
tureen. Send the ham or bacon to table on a separate dish.
Time. — About 3 hours. Average Cost, 5s. 6d. to 6s. Sufficient, for
6 or 7 persons.
741. — LITTLE TIMBALES OF VEAL WITH MUSH-
ROOMS. ( Fr . — Petites Timbales de Veau
aux Champignons.)
Ingredients. — 6 ozs. of lean uncooked veal, 2 ozs. of uncooked ham
or tongue, 1 oz. of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of white sauce, 2 table-
spoonfuls of cream, 2 eggs, salt and pepper. For the panada: -j of a
pint of water, 2 ozs. of flour, \ an oz. of butter. For the mushroom
puree : } a lb. of fresh mushrooms, 1 oz. of butter, 1 tablespoonful of
breadcrumbs, 1 tablespoonful of cream, salt and pepper, white sauce.
Method. — Melt the \ oz. of butter in a 4 of a pint of hot water, and,
when boiling, stir in the 2 ozs. of flour, and cook over the fire until the
458
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
panada, or paste, leaves the sides of the stewpan clean, spread it on
a plate, and put it aside to cool. Remove the stalks of the
mushrooms, skin and chop them coarsely ; melt i oz. of butter
in a stewpan, put in the mushrooms, cover, and let them
steam in the butter for io minutes, then add the breadcrumbs, cream,
seasoning to taste, and let the mixture cool. Pass the meat 2 or 3 times
through the mincing machine, pound it well in a mortar with the
panada, adding 1 oz. of butter, the cold white sauce, the remaining cream
gradually, and the eggs one at a time. When quite smooth, season to
taste, and rub through a fine wire sieve. Butter 10 or 12 large-sized
timbale-moulds, line them with the meat farce, or stuffing, make a
well in the centre of each with the handle of a teaspoon, dipped in hot
water to prevent the farce adhering to it, and fill with the mushroom
puree. Cover the top of each timbale with a thin layer of farce, place
them in a saute-pan, surround them with boiling water to half the depth
of the moulds, cover with a greased paper, and cook for about 25 minutes
or until the farce is firm. Turn out, mask with a good white sauce,
and serve.
Time. — From ij to if- hours. Average Cost, 2s. to 2s. 6d. Sufficient
for 10 to 12 timbales.
Note. — If preferred, the mixture may be cooked in one large mould. Cooked
veal and ham may be used instead of the raw meat ; in that case the cream
should be omitted from the farce, and 4 ozs. of flour, 1 oz. of butter, and £ a
pint of water used for the panada, instead of the quantities given above.
742. — LOIN OF VEAL, DAUBE STYLE. (Fr.— Carre
de Veau a la Daube.)
Ingredients. — The chump end of a loin of veal, forcemeat, No. 396,
a few slices of bacon, 1 small onion sliced, a bouquet-garni (parsley,
thyme, bay-leaf), 1 blade of mace, 10 peppercorns, 1 pint of veal stock
or water, \ a pint of tomato sauce, No. 389, salt and pepper.
Method. — Remove the bones, fill the cavity with forcemeat, and bind
or skewer into a good shape. Boil the stock or water in a large stew-
pan, put in the meat, cover with slices of bacon, and add the onion,
mace, bouquet-garni, peppercorns, and a good seasoning of salt. Simmer
gently for 2\ hours, basting frequently, but do not add more stock
or water until absolutely necessary to prevent the meat from burning.
When ready, strain the liquor into a small stewpan, boil rapidly until
reduced to a glaze, with which coat the meat thickly. Serve the
tomato sauce separately.
Time. — About 3 hours. Average Cost, is. qd Seasonable at any
time.
743. — LOIN OF VEAL, BAKED OR ROASTED.
(Fr. — Longe de Veau Farcie.)
Ingredients. — 4 or 5 lb. of loin of veal, a few slices of bacon, veal force-
RECIPES FOR COOKING VEAL
459
meat {see p. 281), of a pint of brown sauce, a little meat glaze,
lemons.
Method. — Bone the veal, season the inside with salt and pepper, fill
with forcemeat, and skewer or tie it in the form of a roll. Baste well
with hot dripping, cover with a greased paper, and either bake or roast
from 2 to 2\ hours, basting frequently. Meanwhile boil the bones
for stock for the brown sauce (see p. 233). Half an hour before serv-
ing remove the paper from the meat and brush it lightly over with the
glaze, drain away all the fat in the tin, but leave the brown sediment.
Pour the brown sauce into the tin, return to the oven to finish cooking,
and baste frequently. (When economy is not an object, the veal
should be basted with cream instead of brown sauce, the cream being
afterwards slightly thickened, seasoned, and served with the meat).
Roll the bacon, put on a skewer, and fry or bake until crisp, or it may be
broiled before the lire, and cut into dice. Remove the meat to a hot dish,
garnish with rolls of bacon and cut lemon, or little piles of bacon dice
and lemon. Strain the sauce, and serve it separately in a tureen.
Time. — To cook the veal, 2 to hours. Average Cost, iod. to nd.
per lb.
Note. — The above recipe is equally applicable to a shoulder and fillet of
veal ; and a loin of veal is not necessarily boned ; a little forcemeat may be
inserted, and the remainder made into small balls. The bone of the fillet
is nearly always removed, and the cavity filled with forcemeat.
744. — LIVER SAUSAGES. (Fr— Sausisson de Foie
de Veau.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of calf’s liver, £ of a lb. of fat bacon, a lb. of bread-
crumbs, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, \ of a teaspoonful of
powdered thyme, £ of a teaspoonful of finely-grated lemon-rind, 4 of a
teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, 1 teaspoonful of salt, \ of a teaspoonful
of pepper, 3 eggs, skins.
Method. — Chop the liver and bacon very finely, mix them together,
and add the breadcrumbs and the rest of the dry ingredients. Stir
in the eggs, and press the mixture into the skins, leaving room for the
bread to swell. Put them aside for 5 or 6 hours, then prick well, fry
in hot fat until well-browned, and serve either on toast or with
mashed potato.
Time. — Altogether, 6 or 7 hours. Average Cost, is. 8d. Sufficient
for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
745. — LIVER SAUSAGES. (Another Method).
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of calfs’ liver, £ of a lb. of pickled pork or fat
bacon, 1 small onion very finely-chopped, a teaspoonful of powdered
sage, salt and pepper, sausage skins.
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
460
Method. — Wash and dry the liver, chop it finely, and pass it through
a wire sieve. Chop the pork or bacon finely, mix it with the liver, add
the onion, sage, and a liberal seasoning of salt and pepper. Mix well
together, three-quarters fill the skins with the preparation, place in
boiling water, and simmer gently for £ an hour. The sausages may
be used fresh, but if preferred smoked, they should be hung for 2 or 3
days in the smoke of a peat or wood fire. The sausages may be eaten
without further cooking, or, if preferred, they may be fried and served
hot.
Time. — To boil, | an hour; to smoke, 2 or 3 days. Average Cost,
23. 3d. to 2s. 6d. Seasonable at any time.
746. — MINCED VEAL. (Fr.— Hachis de Veau.)
Ingredients. — \\ lb. of cold veal, 1 pint of white sauce ( see Sauces),
forcemeat balls, the grated rind of \ a lemon, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-
juice, salt and pepper.
Method. — Remove all skin and gristle, cut the meat into very small
pieces, but do not chop it. Make the white sauce as directed, add to it
the lemon-rind and lemon-juice, season to taste, put in the meat, cover
closely, and let it remain in the sauce for \ an hour without boiling.
Serve on a hot dish, garnished with the forcemeat balls and slices of
lemon.
Time. — To prepare and cook, from 1 to ij hours. Average Cost, is.
9d. to 2s. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
The Calf a Symbol of Divine Power. — Among the Egyptians the ox was regarded a symbol
of the god Osiris, and was represented with a disc symbolical of the sun, one of the forms under which
Osiris, the husband of Isis and father of Horus, and the source of all beneficent agencies to mankind,
was represented. The sacred bull Apis was supposed to be animated with the soul of Osiris ; special
reverence being accorded to the Apis for this reason. From the Egyptians the Israelites adopted
the worship of the calf, which incurred the displeasure of Jehovah, and drew down upon the people
the stern denunciations of the prophets. It has been the subject of considerable controversy whether
the Jews intended the golden calf and the calves of Jeroboam as the symbol of Osiris, or as a cherubic
representation of the Elohim, the Almighty Intelligence which brought the Israelites out of Egypt.
747. — MINCED VEAL WITH MACARONI.
{Fr. — Hachis aux Macaroni.)
Ingredients. — £ of a lb. of cold roast veal finely-minced, 3 ozs. of ham
finely-minced, 4 ozs. of breadcrumbs, 4 ozs. of macaroni, 2 tablespoon-
fuls of good gravy, 1 large or 2 small eggs, butter, nutmeg, salt and
pepper, gravy.
Method. — Mix the veal, ham and breadcrumbs together, add salt,
pepper and grated nutmeg to taste, moisten with the gravy, and
as much beaten egg as is necessary to bind the mixture together.
Boil the macaroni in salted water until tender, but not broken, and
arrange it at the bottom and sides of a well-buttered mould or basin
in some simple form, such as trellis or stripes. Cut the remainder
RECIPES FOR COOKING VEAL
461
into short lengths, mix them with the meat preparation, and press the
whole lightly into the mould or basin. Cover with a greased paper,
steam gently tor 1 hour, then carefully unmould and serve good gravy,
previously made from veal bones and trimmings, separately.
Time. — To steam, 1 hour. Average Cost, 6d., in addition to the
meat Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
748. — MINCED VEAL WITH POACHED EGGS.
(Fr — Hachis aux CEufs poches.)
Ingredients. — i-l- lb. of cold veal, 6 poached eggs, 1 pint of stock or
water, i-J- ozs. of butter, i-J- ozs. of flour, 1 small onion, \ a small carrot,
2 cloves, 1 blade of mace, the grated rind of \ a lemon, 1 teaspoonful of
lemon-juice, salt and pepper.
Method. — Remove the bones and break them into small pieces, trim
off the brown outside of the meat, put both bones and trimmings
into a stewpan with the onion and carrot sliced, cloves, mace, lemon-
rind, and a little salt and pepper, and boil gently for at least 2 hours.
Cut the meat into very small pieces, and put them aside until wanted.
Melt the butter in a stewpan, stir in the flour, and cook until it ac-
quires a nut-brown colour. Strain the stock from the bones, add it
to the butter and flour, stir until it boils, pour half of it into another
stewpan, and add the minced veal to the remainder. Season to taste,
put in the lemon-juice, cover closely, and draw the stewpan to the
side of the stove for \ an hour. Care must be taken not to let the
contents boil, and the preparation must be occasionally stirred. Poach
the eggs, and trim them neatly. Arrange the mince in the centre of
a hot dish, place the poached eggs round the base, and serve the rest
of the brown sauce in a tureen.
Time. — About hours, altogether. Average Cost, is. to is. 3d.,
exclusive of the meat. Sufficient for 6 persons.
749- — MIROTON OF VEAL. (Fv. — Miroton de Veau.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of cold roast veal, cut into thin slices, f of a pint
of stock, f of an oz. of butter, f of an oz. of flour, 1 teaspoonful of finely-
chopped parsley, 4 of a teaspoonful of finely-grated lemon-rind, browned
breadcrumbs, 1 small onion sliced, salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the meat into thin slices, and make the stock from the
bones and trimmings (see Scotch Collops, No. 760). Melt the butter
in a stewpan, fry the onion lightly, then add the flour, and cook gently
until well-browned. Add the prepared stock, stir until boiling, season
to taste, and simmer gently for 10 minutes. Cover the bottom of
the dish in which the miroton is to be served with brown sauce, on the
top place the slices of meat, sprinkling each layer with parsley, lemon-
rind, salt and pepper, and adding a thin covering of sauce. Cover the
462
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
top layer thickly with browned breadcrumbs, bake in a moderate oven
from 15 to 20 minutes, then serve.
Time. — To bake, from 15 to 20 minutes. Average Cost, 2d. or 3d.,
in addition to the meat. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at
any time.
750. — MOULDED MINCED VEAL. (See Gateau of
Cold Veal.)
751. — NECK OF VEAL, BRAISED. (Fr.— Carre de
Veau braisse.)
Ingredients. — 3 lb. of the best end of the neck, x pint of white stock,
2 ozs. of flour, 1 oz. of butter, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, 1 table-
spoonful of capers, 2 onions, 2 carrots, 1 very small turnip, 2 strips
of celery, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay -leaf), 12 peppercorns,
2 cloves, x blade of mace, salt and pepper, glaze.
Method. — Saw the bones across, detach the short pieces of the rib
boxies, and fold the flap under, slice the vegetables, put them together
with the bouquet-garni, mace, cloves, and 1 oz. of butter into a shallow
stewpan, nearly cover the vegetables with stock, and add the remainder
gradually to replace that which boils away. Place the veal on the bed
of vegetables, cover with a greased paper, put on the lid, aixd cook
gently for 3 hours. Meanwhile melt the remaining oz. of butter in a
small stewpan, add the flour and fry gently until it acquires a nut-brown
colour. When the meat is tender, remove it to a hot dish, and brush it
over with glaze. Strain the liquor in the stewpan on to the butter
and flour, stir until smooth, if necessary reduce with a little stock, add
the capers, lemon-juice, season to taste, and serve separately in a tureen.
Time.— About 3 hours. Average Cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for 6 or 7
persons.
752. — NECK OF VEAL, STEWED. (Fr.— Carre de
Veau etuve.)
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of neck of veal \ a pint of white stock, 2 or 3
rashers of bacon, crisply fried and cut into dice, 6 small tomatoes,
2 ozs. of butter, \ an oz. of flour, 1 dessertspoonful of finely-chopped
parsley, the grated rind of \ a lemon, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, salt
and pepper, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream (if liked), meat-glaze.
Method. — Trim the meat, and when the bones are long saw them
across and detach the rib bones. Melt the butter in a stewpan, fry
the meat lightly on both sides, then add the lemon-rind, parsley, and a
good seasoning of pepper, cover closely, and cook very gently for 2 or
2\ hours. The meat must be well basted, and the stewpan stand on a
cool part of the stove to avoid burning the butter. Meanwhile fry
RECIPES FOR COOKING VEAL
463
or broil the bacon and cut it into dice ; bake or broil the tomatoes
until tender, but not too soft. Remove the meat from the stewpan,
brush it lightly over with meat glaze, and keep it hot. Have ready the
flour mixed smoothly with a little cold stock, and the remainder of the
stock boiling in a stewpan, add the moistened flour to the stock, stir
and boil for 5 minutes, then strain and add the butter in which the meat
was cooked, the lemon-juice, and the cream. Season to taste, bring to
the boil, and serve in a tureen. Garnish the dish alternately with little
bunches of bacon and tomatoes. When economy is an object,
dripping may be substituted for the butter, and the tomatoes and
meat glaze omitted.
Time.— From 2\ to 2f- hours. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for
4 or 5 persons.
753 POTTED HEAD. ( See Collared Head.)
754. — POTTED VEAL.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of veal finely-chopped, \ of a lb. of ham finely-
chopped, butter, mace, cayenne, salt and pepper.
Method. — Place both veal and ham in a buttered jar, add 2 table-
spoonfuls of cold water, and tic a buttered paper over the mouth.
Stand the jar in a saucepan or tin of boiling water, and cook gently for 3
hours either on the stove or in a moderately-cool oven. Pound the meat
finely in a mortar, adding gradually the liquor in the jar, and as much
oiled butter as is required to reduce the whole to a perfectly smooth
paste. Season liberally with cayenne, salt and pepper, add mace to
taste, and pass the preparation through a sieve. Press into small
pots, cover with clarified butter, and use as required.
Time. — To cook, 3 hours. Average Cost, is. 6d. to is. 9d. Seasonable
at any time.
755. — PRESSED VEAL. (Fr.— Galantine de Veau.)
Ingredients. — A breast of veal, 1 large onion sliced, 1 carrot sliced,
i a turnip sliced, 2 or 3 strips of celery sliced, a bouquet-garni (parsley,
thyme, bay-leaf), 10 peppercorns, salt.
Method. — Remove all bones and tendons, trim neatly, season liber-
ally, roll up lightly, and bind securely with tape. Put the bones and
trimmings into a stewpan just large enough to contain the meat, add
the prepared vegetables, bouquet-garni, peppercorns, and a good
seasoning of salt. Place the meat on the top, add stock or water to the
depth of the vegetables, but not enough to touch the meat; cover with
a greased paper, and put on a close-fitting lid. Cook very gently for
3 hours, basting frequently, then place the meat between two heavily-
weighted dishes, and let it remain until cold. Strain the stock, and
464
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
on the following day boil it rapidly until reduced to a glaze. Trim
the meat to a good shape, brush it over with glaze, and serve as a
luncheon or breakfast dish.
Time. — To cook, 3 hours. Average Cost, qd. to iod. per lb.
756. -QUENELLES VEAL (COLD). (Fr.— Chaudfroid
Quenelles de Veau.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of fillet of veal, 1 oz. of butter, 2 ozs. of flour, ^ of a
pint of stock, 2 eggs, Senn’s aromatic seasoning, pepper and salt, J pint
white sauce, aspic jelly, 4 sheets French leaf gelatine.
Method. — Blend the butter and flour in a stewpan, add the stock,
cook until the mixture leaves the sides of the stewpan, and adheres
together in a smooth panada, then put aside to cool. Mince the meat,
and pound it with the eggs, a pinch of aromatic seasoning, pepper and
salt, and the panada. Rub the mixture through a wire sieve. Shape
the quenelles in a dessertspoon, poach until firm, and lay them on a
sieve to get cold.
Add the French leaf gelatine and a tablespoonful of aspic jelly to
the sauce, and when beginning to set coat the quenelles with the
preparation. The quenelles may be decorated tastefully with sprigs of
chervil, fancifully-cut chilies, or truffles. Serve on a border of aspic,
with a nicely-seasoned salad of green peas in the centre.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for 10
quenelles.
757. — QUENELLES OF VEAL. {Fr.— Quenelles de
Veau.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of fillet of veal, of a pint of good stock, 1 oz. of
butter, 2 ozs. of flour, 2 eggs, salt and pepper.
Method. — Melt the butter in a saucepan, add the flour and the stock,
stir and cook until the mixture forms a compact mass round the bowl
of the spoon, then put it aside to cool. Pass the veal 2 or 3 times
through a mincing machine, or chop it finely. Pound the panada
(flour, butter and stock), and the meat together until smooth. Add the
eggs one at a time, season to taste, and pound all well together. Rub
the mixture through a wire sieve, and then shape into quenelles. To
do this it is necessary to use 2 dessertspoonfuls, or smaller spoons if
making quenelles for soup. Dip one spoon into boiling water, fill it
with the mixture, press it from the sides and raise it in the centre with
a knife dipped in hot water, making it a nice oval shape ; take another
spoon, dip it into hot water, scoop the mixture carefully from the first
spoon into the second, and place in a buttered saute-pan. When all the
quenelles are in the pan, pour in sufficient boiling water to nearly
ENTREES
9 10
i* — Toulouse Pasty. 2. — Fillets of Beef. 3. — Beef Galantine. 4. — Zephires of Duck.
5. — Mutton Cutlets in Aspic. 6. — Saut6 of Veal. 7. — Chartreuse of Pheasant.
8. — Curried Veal. 9. — Chicken M6daillons. 10. — Veal Stew.
RFXIPES FOR COOKING VEAL
465
cover them ; have ready a sheet of greased paper, place it on the top of
the quenelles, and cook them gently for about \ an hour. Drain,
arrange in a circle or straight row, and mask with a good white sauce.
Time. — To make and cook, from i|- to i-J- hours. Average Cost, is. 6d.
to is. 8d. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
758. RECHAUFFE OF VEAL. (Fr— Rechauffe de
Veau.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of cold roast veal, forcemeat, No. 369, sippets
of toast, 1 tablespoonful of coarsely-chopped gherkin or capers, f of a
pint of water, J of an oz. of butter, J of an oz. of flour, 1 small onion,
1 blade of mace, lemon-juice, salt and pepper, fat.
Method. — Cut the meat into thin slices and put them aside. Place
the bones and trimmings in a stevvpan with the onion, mace, and a little
salt and pepper, and cover with cold water. Simmer gently for at
least 1 hour, then strain, and add stock or water to make up the §• of a
pint. Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the flour, stir and cook slowly
until it acquires a pale-brown colour, then add the strained stock.
Stir until boiling, add the lemon-juice, season to taste, and putin the
meat. Stand the stewpan where the contents will be kept just below
simmering point, and let it remain for 1 hour, stirring occasionally.
Meanwhile make the forcemeat as directed, form into small balls, and
fry or bake in hot fat until crisp and brown. Place the meat on a hot
dish, strain the sauce, season to taste, add the gherkin, and pour over
the meat. Garnish with forcemeat balls, and sippets of toast, then
serve.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, 6d. or yd., in addition to the
meat. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.
759. — RISSOLETTES OF VEAL. (Fr.— Rissolettes
de Veau.)
Ingredients. — 3 ozs. of lean cooked veal, 1 oz. of lean cooked ham or
tongue, £ of a pint of white stock, 1 tablespoonful of cream, \ an oz. of
flour, \ an oz. of butter, the finely-grated rind of \ a lemon, a pinch of
mace, salt and pepper, 1 egg, vermicelli, 4 ozs. of rough puff paste,
frying-fat.
Method. — Chop the meat very finely ; make a sauce with the flour,
butter and stock, add to it the meat, lemon-rind and mace, season well,
and stir over the fire until well mixed. Cool slightly, then add the
cream, and turn the preparation on to a plate. Roll the paste out
thinly (it must not be thicker than foolscap paper), cut it into rounds
of 14 or 2 inches diameter, place a little of the meat mixture on one half,
moisten the edges of the paste, fold the other half over, making the
croquette half-moon or crescent shape, and press the edges of the
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
4 66
paste together. Brush the rissolettes over with beaten egg, roll them
in crushed vermicelli (crushed in the hand), and fry them until lightly
browned in hot fat. Arrange them in a pyramidal form, on a folded
serviette or dish-paper, garnish with fried parsley, and serve.
Time. — From 40 to 50 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. to 8d., exclusive
of the meat. Sufficient for a small dish.
760. — SCOTCH COLLOPS. (Fr. — Rechauffe de veau
a l’Eccossaise.)
Ingredients. — Cold roast veal, \ a pint of veal stock, rashers of bacon
rolled and fried, f- of an oz. of butter, f of an oz. of flour, 1 teaspoonful
of lemon-juice, 2 or 3 thin strips of lemon-rind, 1 small onion, mace or
nutmeg, salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the meat into slices an inch thick, and trim them
into oval or round pieces from 2 to 3 inches in size. Score them on
both sides with a sharp knife, sprinkle them liberally with salt, pepper
and powdered mace or nutmeg, and put aside. Place any bones and
trimmings there may be in a stawpan with the onion, lemon-rind,
a little mace or nutmeg, and a seasoning of salt and pepper. Cover
with cold water, simmer gently for 1 hour, then strain and add stock
or water to make up the \ pint. Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the
flour, stir and cook the mixture slowly until it acquires a nut-brown
colour, then add the strained stock. Stir until boiling, season to taste,
and simmer gently for 20 minutes. Meanwhile dip the collops in a
little flour seasoned with salt and pepper, fry them lightly in a little
hot butter or fat, then drain and arrange neatly on a hot dish. Add
the lemon-juice to the prepared sauce, strain round the collops, garnish
with the crisply-fried rolls of bacon, and serve.
Time. — About i-J- hours. Average Cost, 6d., exclusive of the meat.
Sufficient — Allow 1 lb. for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.
761.— SCOTCH COLLOPS. (Another way.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of lean mutton (chops), 1 oz. of butter, \ a small
onion, 1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley, 1 tablespoonful of flour,
stock, salt and pepper, croutons of bread, 1 gill of stock.
Method. — Free the meat from bones and fat, and chop it or mince
it evenly, but not too finely. Chop finely the onion, fry, i.e. blend, in
the butter, put in the meat and cook quickly over the fire for a few
minutes. Sprinkle in the flour, stir for a while and moisten with the
stock, boil up, skim and cook gently for about \ an hour. Season to
taste, add the chopped parsley. Dish up, and garnish with croutons
of fried bread.
RECIPES FOR COOKING VEAL 467
Time. — About |- of an hour. Average Cost, is. 2d. to is. 4d. Suffi-
cient for 3 or 4 persons.
762. — SHOULDER OF VEAL BAKED. (Fr.—. EPaule
de Veau rotie.)
Ingredients. — A shoulder of veal, a few rashers of bacon (allow 2 to
each person), forcemeat ( see p. 281), salt, pepper, flour, fat for basting.
Method. — Take out the bone (or order it to be sent in already boned).
Press the forcemeat tightly inside the shoulder, and fasten the sides
with small skewers. Have ready the meat tin, with a sufficient
quantity of boiling water in the lower tin, and in the upper 2 or 3
tablespoonfuls of hot fat. Put in the meat, baste well, bake in a hot
oven for 10 or 15 minutes, then reduce the temperature by putting
in the damper, drawing the fire away, or leaving open the oven door.
Baste frequently and bake gently until the meat is done, the time
required depending more upon the thickness of a joint than upon its
weight ; the rule of so many minutes to each lb. serves as a rough,
but not absolutely reliable guide in cooking. Meanwhile prepare the
gravy by boiling the bones removed from the meat (see Brown Gravy,
p. 216), and a few minutes before the meat is ready to serve, roll up
the rashers of bacon, put a skewer through them, and bake in the oven
until crisp. To serve, remove the skewers from the meat, place it on
a hot dish, garnish with the rolls of bacon, and, if liked, slices of
lemon. A piece of boiled ham or bacon may be substituted for the
rolls of bacon. Serve the gravy separately in a tureen.
Time. — To bake a large shoulder, about- 3 hours. Average Cost, from
9d. to iod. per lb.
763. — SHOULDER OF VEAL, STEWED.
(Fr. — Epaule de Veau etouffee.)
Ingredients. — A small shoulder of veal, 12 ozs. of sausage meat, 6 ozs.
of veal forcemeat ( see Forcemeats), a few slices of bacon, 2 lemons,
2 tomatoes, i|- pints of white sauce (made of equal quantites of milk
and veal liquor), salt and pepper, 2 onions, 2 small carrots, 1 small
turnip, 2 strips of celery, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf),
12 peppercorns.
Method. — Bone the veal, flatten it on the table, season well with salt
and pepper, spread on half the sausage meat, cover with half the force-
meat, then add the remainder of the sausage meat, and cover with
forcemeat as before. Roll up tightly, bind with tape, put it with the
bones, prepared vegetables, herbs, and peppercorns into boiling water,
boil quickly for 10 minutes, add a little cold water to reduce the tem-
perature, and simmer very gently until done ( see notes on boiling,
463
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
p. 404). Remove to a hot dish, pour a little sauce over, garnish with
rolls of bacon, and slices of tomato and lemon, and serve the remainder
of the sauce in a tureen.
Time. — Allow 25 to 30 minutes to each lb. of veal. Average Cost,
2s. exclusive of the meat.
The Fattening of Calves. — The method adopted for fattening young calves is very simple.
Their principal article of diet is milk, with which they are freely supplied. The house or shed where
the calves are kept is well ventilated, and the temperature so regulated that the extremes of heat
and cold are avoided. A moderate amount of light only is admitted, and lumps of chalk, which calves
are fond of licking, are placed within their reach. Thus fed and tended, at the end of 8 or 9 weeks
the young animals, frequently attain the weight of 18 to 20 stone.
764. SWEETBREADS, STEWED. (See No. 272)
765. — SWEETBREADS (To Blanch.) (Fr.— Ris de
Veau.)
In whatever form the sweetbreads may be subsequently dressed,
they must be first blanched, to render them white and firm. One
hour’s soaking, at least, in cold water, is necessary to free them from
blood, and they may with advantage be allowed to remain longer.
They should then be put into a stewpan, covered with cold water,
and brought slowly to the boil, and after 2 or 3 minutes’ gentle cooking,
may be either transferred to a basin of cold water and allowed to
remain in it until cold, or well washed in cold water and pressed
between 2 dishes until cold.
766. — SWEETBREAD FRIED. (Fr.— Fritot de Ris
de Veau.)
Ingredients. — 1 calf’s heart sweetbread, 1 pint of white stock or water
(when water is used, add a little onion, carrot, and turnip), 1 egg,
breadcrumbs, 1 oz. of butter or frying-fat.
Method. — Blanch the sweetbread (see No. 765), then put it into a
stewpan with the stock, add seasoning if necessary, and simmer gently
for 40 minutes. Press between 2 plates until cold, then cut into slices,
brush over with egg, coat with breadcrumbs, and fry in the butter in a
saute-pan, or in a deep pan of hot fat, until lightly browned. Drain
well, and serve on a folded serviette, or dish paper, garnished with
fried parsley.
Time. — i£ hours, after the sweetbread is blanched. Average Cost,
3s. 6d. Sufficient for 2 or 3 persons.
767. — SWEETBREADS, BRAISED. (Fr.— Ris de
Veau, braisee.)
Ingredients. — A pair of calf’s sweetbreads, £ of a pint of stock, 1 small
RECIPES FOR COOKING VEAL
469
onion, 1 small carrot, \ a small turnip, 1 strip of celery, 6 peppercorns,
a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), glaze, 1 croute of fried
bread, | a pint of good gravy or tomato sauce ( see Sauces).
Method. — Blanch the sweetbreads, ( see No. 765) slice the vegetables,
put them into a stewpan with the bouquet and peppercorns, nearly cover
them with stock, adding more when required. Wrap the sweetbreads
in a buttered paper, place them on the top of the vegetables, put on the
lid, and cook gently for f of an hour. In the meantime cut a block
(croute) of bread to fit the dish, and not less than 2 inches in thickness.
Fry in hot fat, drain well, place the sweetbreads on the top of the bread,
brush them over with glaze, pour round the gravy, or tomato sauce,
and serve. If preferred, the dish may be garnished with little groups
of green peas, haricots verts, or a macedoine (mixed garnish) of
vegetables, either placed at the lour corners, or at intervals round the
base of the croute.
Time. — About £ of an hour, after the sweetbreads are blanched.
Average Cost, 5s. to 7s. 6d. SuHlcient for 6 or 7 persons.
Season and Choice of Veal. — The best veal and the largest supply is to be had from February
to the end of July. It comes principally from the western counties. In purchasing veal, special
attention should be given to its closeness of grain and the whiteness of the flesh, the latter being an
important consideration. Veal may be bought at all seasons of the year, and of excellent quality^
but except during the months when the supply is plentiful, it is higher in price.
768.— SWEETBREADS, CONTE STYLE. (Fr.— Ris
de Veau a la Conte.)
Ingredients.— 2 heart sweetbreads, larding bacon, a few slices of
tongue, 2 large truffles, \ a pint of stock, glaze. For the mirepoix
(a foundation preparation of vegetables, herbs, and bacon, for brown
soups, sauces, or for braised meats) : a sliced onion, a sliced carrot,
a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 6 peppercorns, a few small
slices of bacon, chicken or veal quenelles, | of a pint of Madere, or demi-
glaze sauce ( see. Sauces),
Method. — Blanch and press the sweetbreads ( see No. 765), lard them
on the best side with strips of bacon and tongue, and stud the centre
of each with short strips of truffle inserted in small holes made with the
point of a knife. I.ine a saute-pan with the mirepoix, nearly cover
the vegetables with stock, adding more when required, lay the sweet-
breads on the top, and cover with a buttered paper. Boil up, then
transfer the saute-pan to a slow oven, cook gently for 45 minutes,
basting frequently during that time, and a few minutes before serving
brush over with glaze. Meanwhile, shape the quenelles in small tea-
spoons (see No. 757), and poach them in a little stock. Cut a croute
of bread to fit the dish, and fry it brown in hot fat. Take up the
sweetbreads, strain and skim the liquor, reduce by rapid boiling, then
add it to the Madere, or dcmi-glaze sauce. Dish the sweetbreads on the
croute, garnish with the quenelles, decorate with fancifully-cut slices
470
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
of truffle, pour a little of the sauce round the dish, and serve the re-
mainder in a sauce-boat.
Time. — From i£ to i-} hours, after the sweetbreads are blanched.
Average Cost, ios. 6d. to 12s. 6d. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
769. — SWEETBREADS, FRIED, AND SPINACH.
(Fv.— Ris de Veau Frit aux Epinards.)
Ingredients. — A pair of sweetbreads, \ pint of spinach puree, i pint
thick Bechamel sauce, 1 egg, breadcrumbs, salt and pepper, \ a pint
Madere, Robert, or piquante sauce ( see Sauces), frying-fat.
Method. — Prepare and blanch the sweetbreads ( see No. 765), boil
them for 10 minutes in slightly salted water, and when cool cut them
into slices {- of an inch in thickness. Have the Bechamel sauce ready
and nearly cold ; season each slice with salt and pepper, coat both
sides with the sauce, and, if possible, put them on ice until the sauce
sets. Now dip the slices into beaten egg, coat them very carefully
with breadcrumbs, and fry until lightly browned in hot fat. Dish
in a circle on a thin border of mashed potato, fill the centre with the
spinach puree ( see Vegetables as to method of preparation), pour the
sauce round the base of the dish, and serve.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, 6s. 6d. to 8s. 6d. Sufficient
for 6 or 7 persons.
770. — SWEETBREADS FRIED IN BATTER.
(Fr. — Ris de Veau frit a la Villeroi.)
Ingredients. — A pair of sweetbreads, \ a pint of Bechamel sauce, \ a
pint of tomato or piquante sauce ( see Sauces), frying-fat. For the
batter: 4 ozs. of flour, £ of a pint of tepid water, 2 tablespoonfuls of
salad-oil, the whites of 2 eggs, salt.
Method. — Make a smooth batter of the flour, salad-oil, tepid water,
and a little salt, and when ready to use add lightly the stiffly-whipped
whites of eggs. Prepare, blanch, cook and coat the slices of sweetbread
as directed in the preceding recipe. When the Bechamel sauce is set,
dip the slices carefully into the batter, and fry them until golden-
brown in a deep pan of hot fat. Drain, sprinkle with salt and pepper,
pile them on a hot dish, and garnish with fried parsley. Serve the
tomato, or piquante sauce in a sauce-boat.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, 6s. 6d. to 8s. 6d. Sufficient for
6 or 7 persons.
771. — SWEETBREADS WITH SUPREME SAUCE.
(Fr. — Ris de Veau a la Supreme.)
Ingredients. — 2 heart sweetbreads, f- pint of supreme sauce ( see
RECIPES FOR COOKING VEAL
471
Sauces), 1 pint of white stock, 12 preserved mushrooms, croute of fried
bread, salt and pepper, frying-fat.
Method. — Prepare and blanch the sweetbreads ( see No. 765), put them
into a stewpan with the stock, and a little sliced onion and carrot,
unless the stock is sufficiently flavoured with these, cover with a
buttered paper, and simmer gently for 40 minutes. Meanwhile, cut a
croute of bread to fit the dish, and not less than 2 inches in depth, and
fry it lightly in hot fat. Prepare the Supreme sauce as directed, cut
the mushrooms into slices, and add them to it. Dish the sweetbreads
on the croute of bread, and pour the sauce over. The dish may be
garnished with little groups of haricots verts, green peas, or macedoine.
Time. — About £ of an hour after the sweetbread is larded. Average
Cost, 6s. to 8s. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
772. — SWEETBREADS WITH ITALIAN SAUCE.
(Fr. — Ris de Veau a ITtalienne.)
Ingredients. — 2 heart sweetbreads, larding bacon, £ a pint of Italienne
sauce ( see Sauces), £ of a pint of stock, 12 small quenelles of veal or
chicken ( see No. 41 1 ), 12 preserved mushrooms, a croute of fried bread,
salt and pepper, a mirepoix of 1 onion, 1 carrot, £ a turnip, a bouquet-
gar ni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 6 peppercorns, frying-fat, glaze.
Method. — Prepare, blanch and press the sweetbreads ( see No. 765),
and lard them with strips of bacon i£ inches long, and about £ of an
inch wide. Slice the vegetables, put them into a stewpan with the
bouquet-garni and peppercorns, nearly cover with stock, and add the
remainder as that in the stewpan boils away. Place the sweetbreads
on the top of the vegetables, cover with a buttered paper, and braise
either on the stove or in the oven for 40 minutes, basting frequently.
When ready, transfer to a baking-tin, and put into a hot oven for a few
minutes, to brown and crisp the bacon. Have ready a croute of fried
bread, cut to the size of the dish, and 2 inches or more in depth, place
the sweetbreads on the top of it, and brush lightly over with glaze.
Pour a little of the sauce round the dish, and serve the remainder
separately. Garnish with the quenelles and the mushrooms, previously
heated in a little of their own liquor, and serve.
Time. — About 1 hour, after the sweetbreads are blanched. Average
Cost, 6s. 6d. to 8s. 6d. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
773. — SWEETBREADS, DUBARRY STYLE.
(Fr. — Ris de Veau a la Dubarry.)
Ingredients.— -2 heart sweetbreads, larding bacon, slices of cooked
ox-tongue, £ of a pint of Hollandaise sauce, £ of a pint of Madere sauce
(see Sauces), £ a pint of stock, a mirepoix of sliced onion, 1 sliced carrot.
472
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
\ a sliced turnip, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 6 pepper-
corns, i large cauliflower, salt and pepper.
Method. — Blanch, press, and braise the sweetbreads ( see Nos. 765).
Prepare the 2 sauces as directed, cook the cauliflower, divide it into
small sprays, re-heat in the Hollandaise sauce, and warm the slices
of tongue between 2 plates over a saucepan of boiling water. Remove
the sweetbreads from the stewpan, strain the liquor into a smaller pan,
boil rapidly, and when sufficiently reduced add to it the Madere sauce,
and season to taste. Cut the sweetbreads into slices, arrange them
with alternate slices of tongue in a circle on a hot dish, strain the
Madere sauce over, and pile the cauliflower in the centre. Serve
hot.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 7s. 6d. to 9s. 6d. Sufficient for
7 or 8 persons.
774. — SWEETBREAD, ESCALOPES OF. (Fr — Es-
calopes de Ris de Veau.)
Ingredients. — A pair of sweetbreads, pint of spinach puree, ( see
Vegetables), \ a pint of tomato sauce (see Sauces), \ a pint of stock
1 sliced onion, 1 sliced carrot, \ a sliced turnip, a bouquet-garni (parsley
thyme, bay-leaf), 6 peppercorns, meat glaze, 1 truffle, salt and pepper.
Method. — Blanch the sweetbreads (see No. 765). Place the vege-
tables in a stewpan, with the sweetbreads on top, add the peppercorns,
bouquet-garni, and stock, cover with a buttered paper and close-
fitting lid, and braise gently for 40 minutes (basting occasionally).
Take them up, cut into neat slices, place them in a baking-tin, brush
over with glaze, surround to half their depth with the stock in which
they were cooked, and put them into a moderate oven for 10
minutes. Sprinkle each with a little chopped truffle, dish in a circle
on a border of lightly-browned potato, fill the centre with the
spinach puree, and pour the sauce round.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 6s. to 8s. 6d. Sufficient for 6
or 7 persons.
775. — SWEETBREAD, ESCALOPES OF AND TO-
MATOES. ( Fr . — Escalopes de Ris de Veau
a la Tomate.)
Ingredients. — A pair of sweetbreads, 1 lb. of tomatoes, 1 dessert-
spoonful of cornflour or arrowroot, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, a few
drops of carmine or cochineal, \ a pint of Bechamel sauce (see Sauces),
J pint of spinach puree (see Vegetables), a little finely-chopped truffle,
\ a pint of stock, vegetables, salt and pepper, sugar.
Method. — Prepare and cook the sweetbreads as directed in the preced-
RECIPES FOR COOKING VEAL
473
ing recipe, and cut them into slices. Rub the tomatoes through a fine
hair sieve, put the puree into a small stewpan, add a little salt and
pepper, and when hot put in the cornflour (previously mixed smoothly
with a little cold water), and stir until the puree thickens. Add to it
the lemon-juice, a pinch of sugar, and either carmine or cochineal drop
by drop until the desired colour is attained. Spread the puree quickly
on one side of each escalop, sprinkle on a little truffle, arrange them
in a circle on a border of mashed potato, fill the centre with the puree
of spinach (green peas or haricots verts may be substituted), and pour
the Bechamel sauce round.
Time. About i hour. Average Cost, 7s. 6d. to 9s. 6d. Sufficient
for 6 or 7 persons.
776. — VEAL, ESCALOPES OF, RUSSIAN STYLE.
(Fr. — Escalopes de Veau a la Russe.)
Ingredients. — 2 to 2\ lb. of knuckle of veal, 4 ozs. of pork, 4 ozs. of
beef marrow, 3 ozs. of clarified butter, 2 ozs. of anchovy paste, | a pint
of preserved mushrooms, 1 yolk of egg, 1 teaspoonful of powdered
mixed herbs, salt and pepper, breadcrumbs, 4 of a pint of demi-glaze
sauce, fried breadcrumbs.
Method. — Cut the veal into even-sized scallops of 2 4 or 2\ inches
diameter, and fry them in 2 ozs. of butter over a quick fire until lightly
browned. Press them lightly between 2 dishes until cold, strain the
butter, and use it afterwards for sauteing the mushrooms. Cut the
pork and marrow into small pieces, pound them in a mortar until
smooth, then add the herbs, anchovy paste, the yolk of egg, seasoning
to taste, and when thoroughly incorporated rub through a wire sieve.
Melt the remaining oz. of butter, spread one side of the scallops thickly
with the farce or stuffing, cover with fried breadcrumbs, sprinkle
with melted butter, then place them on a buttered baking-sheet, and
cook in a moderately-hot oven for about 1 5 minutes. Re-heat the
butter in a saute-pan, put in the mushrooms (previously well-drained),
saute for a few minutes, then add the demi-glaze sauce, season to taste,
and simmer gently for 10 minutes. Dish the scallops in a circle on a
hot dish, and place the ragout of mushrooms in the centre.
Time. — 1^ to 1} hours. Average Cost, 4s. 3d. to 5s. Sufficient for 6
or 7 persons.
777. — VEAL, FRICANDELLES OF. (Fr. — Fricandeau
de Veau.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of lean veal finely-minced, \ a lb. of suet very
finely-chopped, 1 thick slice of bread, 3 eggs, \ a pint of brown sauce
made from bones and trimmings of the meat ( sec “ Scotch Collops,”
474
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
No. 760), \ of a teaspoonful of finely-grated lemon-rind, nutmeg, salt
and pepper, frying-fat, egg and breadcrumbs, milk, lemon.
Method. — Soak the bread in a little milk. Squeeze as dry as possible,
and beat out the lumps. Mix the veal, suet, lemon-rind, a good pinch
of nutmeg, and a liberal seasoning of salt and pepper well together,
stir in the eggs, and shape the mixture into balls about the size of a large
walnut. Drop them into fast-boiling stock or seasoned water, cook for
6 minutes, then drain and dry well. Coat with egg and breadcrumbs,
and fry in hot fat until nicely browned. Make the sauce as directed,
strain and return to the stewpan, season to taste, and add the balls.
Stew gently for 4 an hour, and serve garnished with sliced lemon.
Time. — 1 hour, after the sauce is made. Average Cost, is. 8d. to
2s. 3d. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.
778. — VEAL AU GRATIN. (Fr.— Hachis de Veau
au gratin.)
Ingredients. — |- of a lb. of cold roast veal finely-minced, 1 oz. of butter,
1 oz. of flour, f of a pint of stock, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, 1 small
onion, mace or nutmeg, salt and pepper, breadcrumbs.
Method. — Place any bones and trimmings there may be in a stewpan
with the onion, a blade of mace or a little nutmeg, and a seasoning of
salt and pepper. Cover with cold water, simmer gently for 1 hour,
then strain and add stock or water to make up the f of a pint. Melt
the butter in a stewpan, add the flour, stir and cook slowly until it
acquires a pale-brown colour, then add the strained stock. Stir until
boiling, add the lemon-juice, season to taste, simmer gently for 20
minutes, and add to the meat. Fill well-buttered scallop shells with
the preparation, cover it rather thickly with breadcrumbs, and add
a few bits of butter. Bake in a moderate oven until the surface is
nicely-browned, then serve.
Time. — To bake, from 10 to 15 minutes. Average Cost, 3d., in addition
to the meat. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
779. — VEAL CAKE. (Fr. — Gateau de Veau.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of lean uncooked veal, \ a lb. of bacon, 3 hard-
boiled eggs, 1 teaspoonful of fine-chopped parsley, the grated rind of 1
lemon, salt and pepper, J of a pint of stock (about).
Method. — Cut the veal and bacon into dice, cut the eggs into sections
or slices, and arrange some of them in a pattern on the bottom of the
buttered mould ; mix the parsley, lemon-rind, flavourings and season-
ings together. Cover the bottom of the mould with a thick layer of
veal, on the top of it place a thin layer of bacon, add a few slices of
egg, and sprinkle well with the seasoning. Repeat until the mould
is full, pour in the warm stock, cover with a greased paper, place the
RECIPES FOR COOKING VEAL
475
mould in a tin containing water, and bake for about 3 hours in a slow
oven. Add a little more hot stock as soon as 'the mould is taken out
of the oven. When cold, turn out of the mould, garnish with tufts
of parsley, and serve.
Time. — To cook, about 3 hours. Average Cost, about 2s. Sufficient
for 5 or 6 persons.
780. — VEAL CUTLETS A LA MAINTENON.
(Fr. — Cotelettes de Veau a la Maintenon.)
Ingredients.. — lb. of fillet or neck of veal, butter or fat for frying,
f of a pint of white stock, 1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, 1 oz. of ham
finely-shredded, 1 shallot finely-chopped, 1 or 2. thin strips of lemon-
rind, salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the veal into thin slices, which afterwards trim into
neat cutlets. Fry these until lightly browned in hoUfat or butter,
and put them aside. Melt the ounce of butter in a stewpan, add the
ham and shallot, toss over the fire for a few minutes, and sprinkle in the
flour. Stir and cook slowly until a light-brown colour is obtained,
then add the stock and lemon-rind, and season to taste. Stir until
boiling, simmer gently for 15 minutes, then put in the cutlets, and place
the stewpan where the contents will be kept just below simmering
point. Stew until tender, which may be ascertained by piercing the
meat with a skewer, then take out the cutlets, strain the sauce, and put
both aside until cold. Take as many sheets of white paper as there are
cutlets, cut away the corners, thus giving them something of the shape
of a heart, and brush them over on both sides with oil or clarified
butter. Place a cutlet on each paper, cover with sauce, enfold and
fasten securely, so that the sauce cannot escape. Broil over a gentle
fire, or bake in a moderate oven, and serve in the paper cases.
Time. — To stew the cutlets, 1 hour ; to broil, from'i 2 to 15 minutes.
Average Cost, 2s. 4d. Sufficient — Allow 2 cutlets to each person.
Seasonable at any time.
781. — VEAL CHOPS. (Fr. — Cotelettes de Veau.)
Ingredients. — 1-§- lb. of loin of veal, crisply-fried rolls of bacon, flour,
butter, salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the meat into chops, and trim them neatly. Run a
skewer through the rolls of bacon, fry them lightly, and keep hot until
required. Sprinkle the chops with pepper, fry them in the bacon fat
slowly, in order that they may be thoroughly cooked without becoming
too brown. Keep the chops hot, drain off any fat that remains in the
pan, and add a little butter. When melted, sprinkle in a little flour,
brown lightly, and add £ of a pint of boiling water. Season to taste,
476
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
boil up and strain. Arrange the chops on a hot dish, pour the gravy
over, and garnish with the bacon.
Time. — To fry, about 20 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. Sufficient
for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Note. — For other methods of cooking veal chops, see “ Haricot of Veal ”
and “ Veal Ragout.”
782. — VEAL CUTLETS. ( Fr . — Cotelettes de Veau.)
Ingredients. — 1^ lb. of fillet or neck of veal, butter or fat for frying,
\ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, \ of a teaspoonful of finely
grated lemon-rind, salt and pepper, egg, breadcrumbs.
Method. — Cut the meat into thin slices, which afterwards trim into
neat fillets. Beat the egg, mix with it the parsley, lemon-rind, and a
good seasoning of salt and pepper. Brush the cutlets over with this
preparation, coat them carefully with breadcrumbs, and fry in hot
butter or fat until nicely browned. Serve with either tomato or
piquante sauce, or, when gravy is preferred, brown a little flour in the
fat in the frying-pan, add a little salt and pepper, pour in a J of a pint
of hot water, boil up, and strain.
Time. — To fry, about 15 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. Sufficient for
5 or 6 persons.
783. — VEAL CUTLETS, FRENCH STYLE.
(Fr. — Cotelettes de Veau a la Frangaise.)
Ingredients. — 5 or 6 bones of the best end of the neck of veal, 2 ozs.
of butter, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped lemon-rind, 4 teaspoonful
of fine-powdered lemon-thyme, -J- a teaspoonful of finely-chopped
parsley, the yolks of 2 eggs, breadcrumbs, salt and pepper.
Method. — Saw off the chine-bone and the upper part of the rib-bones,
leaving the latter about 3 inches long. Divide into cutlets, flatten
with a cutlet-bat, trim neatly, and season with salt and pepper. Melt
\ an oz. of butter, add to it the herbs, parsley, lemon-rind, the yolks
of eggs, and mix thoroughly. Dip each cutlet in this mixture, and coat
with the breadcrumbs. Melt the remainder of the butter in a saute-
or frying-pan, and fry the cutlets until nicely browned on both sides.
Drain, dish in a circle, put a frill on each bone, and serve with tomato
or dcmi-glace sauce.
Time. — To cook the cutlets from 15 to 20 minutes. Average Cost,
8d., exclusive of the veal. Sufficient, allow one cutlet for each person.
784. — VEAL FLADEON.
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of lean veal finely minced, \ of a lb. of suet very
finely chopped, ^ of a pint of stock made from bones and trimmings
RECIPES FOR COOKING VEAL
477
of the meat, 3 eggs, 2 tablespooni'uls of breadcrumbs, a good pinch
of finely-grated lemon-rind, gravy or a little milk, nutmeg, salt and
pepper.
Method. — Mix the veal, suet and breadcrumbs together, add the
lemon-rind, a little grated nutmeg and a good seasoning of salt and
pepper. Stir in 1 egg, and as much gravy or milk as will thoroughly
moisten the whole. Turn into a buttered piedish which it will half fill,
and bake for 1 hour in a moderate oven. Beat the remaining 2 eggs
well, add the J of a pint of stock, and season to taste. Pour over the
meat preparation, bake until set, and serve in the dish.
Time. — To bake, about i-£ hours. Average Cost, is. to is. 2d. Sufficient
for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.
785. — VEAL LOAF. (Fr. — PaindeVeau.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of cold roast veal finely-chopped, C a lb. of sausage
meat, 2 tablespoonfuls of breadcrumbs, a little gravy or stock, 1 egg,
salt and pepper.
Method. — Mix the veal, sausage meat and breadcrumbs together,
season liberally with salt and pepper, and add the egg. Mix thor-
oughly, and add gravy or stock gradually until the whole is thoroughly
moistened. Form into a short thick roll, cover lightly with flour, or,
when economy is not an object, coat with egg and breadcrumbs. Bake
in a moderate oven for 1 hour, basting occasionally with hot fat, and
serve either hot or cold. When served hot, it should be accompanied
by good gravy or some suitable sauce.
Time. — To bake, 1 hour. Average Cost, yd., in addition to the veal.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
786. — VEAL CUTLETS WITH OYSTERS.
(Fr. — Cotelettes de Veau aux Huitres.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of fillet of veal, 12 sauce oysters, 1 oz. of butter,
1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, \ a pint of white sauce, 2 shallots, finely-
chopped, salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the meat into 6 or 7 pieces of equal size and thick-
ness, flatten these slightly with a cutlet-bat, and trim them into a
round or oval form. Melt the butter in a sautepan or frying pan,
put in the shallots and cutlets, and fry thoroughly, but do not allow
them to acquire much colour. Have the white sauce nearly boiling
in a stewpan, put in the cutlets, shallots, and the butter in which they
were fried, cover closely, and simmer gently for -J- an hour. Meanwhile
stew the beards of the oysters in oyster-liquor or a little white stock
for 20 minutes, then strain, and add to the contents of the stewpan. 5
minutes before serving stir in the oysters and lemon-juice, and season
to taste. Arrange the cutlets neatly on a hot dish, pour the sauce over,
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
478
and serve. The oysters should remain in the hot sauce until they lose
their flabbiness, but if overcooked they will become hard and indi-
gestible.
Time. — About J hour. Average Cost, about 2s. 6d. .Sufficient for 5
or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
787. — VEAL, HAM AND LIVER PIE. Fr. — (Pate de
Veau.)
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of cold roast veal finely-chopped, a lb. of cold
boiled liver finely-chopped, \ a lb. of cooked ham finely-chopped,
a lb. of sausage meat, \ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley,
\ a pint of good gravy made from bones and trimmings, puff paste, or
rough puff, salt and pepper.
Method. — Pound each kind of meat separately, and season to taste.
Place in a piedish in layers, sprinkling each layer with parsley, and add
a little of the gravy. Cover with paste, bake in a moderate oven from
35 to 40 minutes, and pour the remainder of the gravy through the
hole in the top of the pie. Serve either hot or cold.
Time. — To bake, from 35 to 40 minutes. Average Cost 2S. to 2s. 6d.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable at any time.
788. — VEAL, LARDED AND ROAST. (Fr.-Poitrine
de Veau roti.)
Ingredients. — 3 lb. of neck of veal, larding bacon, stock, ij ozs. of
butter, \\ ozs. of flour, 1 onion sliced, 2 carrots sliced, 1 small turnip
sliced, 2 or 3 strips of celery sliced, bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme,
bay-leaf), 10 peppercorns, salt and pepper, fat for basting.
Method. — Saw the bones across, remove the short ends and the skin,
and fold the flap under. Lard the upper surface in close rows ( see
No. 737). Place the prepared vegetables in a stewpan, add the
bouquet-garni, peppercorns, salt to taste, and stock to barely cover
the vegetables. Lay the meat on the top, cover with a greased paper,
and put on the lid, which must fit closely. Cook gently for 2 hours,
adding more stock when necessary. Have ready a baking-tin con-
taining a little hot dripping, put in the meat, baste, and bake
gently for \ an hour, basting it well. Meanwhile melt the butter
in a stewpan, add the flour, stir and cook gently until the mixture
acquires a nut-brown colour, then add f of a pint of stock, including
that from the stewpan in which the veal was braised. Stir until
boiling, simmer gently for a few minutes, and season to taste. Serve
the meat on a hot dish, and the sauce in a tureen.
Time. — About 2J hours. Average Cost, 3s. Sufficient for 6 or 7 per-
sons. Seasonable at any time.
RECIPES FOR COOKING VEAL
479
789. - VEAL MARBLED.
Ingredients. — Remains of a cooked tongue, an equal quantity of
cooked veal, a little stock which will jelly when cold, 1 hard-boiled
egg, salt and pepper.
Method. — Chop the tongue and veal separately until very fine,
and if possible, pound smoothly in a mortar. Season well with
salt and pepper. Divide the egg into slices or small sections, and
arrange them in some simple pattern on the bottom of a small mould
or basin. Place the tongue and veal in the mould in irregularly-
shaped pieces, moistening each layer with stock, and allowing it to run
between, and thus divide the lumps of tongue and veal. Put aside
until set, then turn out and use as a breakfast, luncheon or supper
dish.
Time. — 2 hours to set. Average Cost, is. 3d. with J lb. of tongue.
Sufficient for 4 persons.
790. — VEAL FINGERS. (Fr. — Tranchettes de Veau).
Ingredients. — 6 ozs. of cold roast veal fmcly-minced, an oz. of butter,
\ an oz. of flour, J of a pint of stock, \ a teaspoonful of lemon-juice,
1 very small onion, a pinch of mace or nutmeg, salt and pepper, a little
finely-cliopped parsley, fingers of fried or toasted bread.
Method. — Prepare the sauce as directed in “ Veal au Gratin,” No. 77 8.
Mix the veal, mace or nutmeg, and a good seasoning of salt and pepper
well together, add the sauce, spread the mixture on the fingers, and
sprinkle with parsley. Make thoroughly hot in the oven, and serve.
Time. — To re-heat, 5 or 6 minutes. Average Cost, 2d., in addition
to the meat. Sufficient for 8 or 10 fingers. Seasonable at any time.
791. — VEAL OLIVES. (Fr. — Olives de Veau.)
Ingredients. — i-|- lb. of fillet of veal, cut in 8 thin slices, an equal
number of slices of bacon, veal forcemeat ( see Forcemeats), 1 pint of
brown sauce, i-|- ozs. of butter, salt and pepper, olives.
Method. — The slices of meat and bacon should be about 4 inches
long and 3 inches wide. Place a slice of bacon on each piece of meat,
spread on a thin layer of forcemeat, roll up tightly, and fasten securely
with twine. Melt the butter in a stewpan, put in the olives, and fry
until lightly browned. Pour away the butter, add the brown sauce
(hot), cover closely, and simmer gently from i|- to 2 hours. When
done, remove the strings, arrange the olives in 2 rows on a foundation
of mashed potatoes, and strain the sauce over. Or, arrange them in a
circle on a border of mashed potatoes, and fill the centre with puree
of spinach, or any other suitable vegetable.
Time. — To prepare and cook, about 2\ hours. Average Cost, 3s. 4d.
Sufficient, 8 fillets for 6 persons.
480 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
792. — VEAL OLIVES, FRENCH STYLE.
( Fr . — Olives de Veau a la Fran<;aise.)
Ingredients. — 1} lb. of fillet of veal, a few strips of larding bacon,
-1- a lb. of pork sausage meat, 2\ ozs. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, 1 pint of
good stock, 1 onion, 1 carrot, \ a small turnip, 2 strips of celery, 6
peppercorns, 2 cloves, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), meat
glaze, a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, 1 tablespoonful of coarsely-chopped
gherkins, salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the meat into thin slices about 4 inches long and 3
inches wide, and lard them on one side with strips of bacon, 1^ inches
long and about j- of an inch wide. On the side not larded spread a thin
layer of sausage meat, roll up tightly, and fasten securely with twine.
Melt i-J ozs. of butter in a stewpan, and fry the olives until the entire
surface is lightly browned. When sufficiently fried, remove them
to a plate, put in the peppercorns, cloves, bouquet-garni, the vegetables
sliced, fry 10 minutes, then three quarters cover the vegetables with
stock, and add the rest as that in the stewpan boils away. Place the olives
on the top of the vegetables, cover with a buttered paper, put on the
lid, and braise either on the stove or in the oven for nearly 1 hour.
When tender, take them out of the stewpan, put them in a hot oven
for a few minutes to brown and crisp the bacon, remove the strings,
and brush over with glaze. Have ready the roux, or thickening, made
by frying the remaining oz. of butter and the flour together until brown,
strain the liquor from the stewpan on to it, stir and boil until smooth,
season to taste, and simmer for a few minutes. Dish the olives in a
straight row on a foundation of mashed potato ; add the lemon-juice
and gherkins to the sauce, season to taste, and pour the sauce round
the dish.
Time. — From 2\ to 2-1- hours. Average Cost, 3s. Sufficient for 6 or 7
persons.
793. — VEAL OLIVES. (Fr.— Olives de Veau.)
(Another way.)
Ingredients. — An equal number of thin slices of cold veal and raw
bacon, veal forcemeat ( see Forcemeats), i-J- ozs. of butter, i-J- ozs. of
flour, 1 small onion sliced, -J- a small carrot sliced, 6 peppercorns, 2
cloves.
Method. — Put the bones and trimmings of the meat into a stewpan,
cover with cold water, and boil gently for at least 2 hours, then
strain, and season to taste. Melt the butter in a stew-pan, fry the
vegetables slightly, add the flour and cook until brown, then put
in the peppercorns, cloves, salt to taste, 1 pint of the stock, and
stir until it boils. The slices of meat must be thin, about 4 inches
long and 3 inches wide ; spread on each a little forcemeat, roll up
*
ENTREES
i. Cold Chicken and Veal Timbales. 2. Souffles of Duck, with Cherry
and Spinach. 3. Moulded Sweetbread, with Asparagus.
1 7
RECIPES FOR COOKING VEAL
481
tightly, wrap a thin slice of bacon round, and tie securely with string.
Place the rolls on end in the stewpan, cover with a greased paper,
and cook very gently for ij hours. Remove the string, dish in two
straight rows, and strain the sauce over.
Time. — to 1^ hours, after the stock is made. Average Cost,
is. for a dish of 12, exclusive of the meat. Sufficient for 5 or 6
persons.
794. — VEAL OLIVE PIE. ( Fr . — Pate de Veau.)
Ingredients. — An equal number of thin slices of cold veal and raw
bacon, veal forcemeat (see Forcemeats), \ a pint of good gravy, puff
paste, or rough puff (see pastes), forcemeat balls, 2 hard-boiled eggs,
salt and pepper.
Method. — Boil the bones and trimmings down for gravy. Prepare
the rolls as directed in the preceding recipe, place them on end in a pie-
dish, intersperse slices of hard-boiled egg and forcemeat balls (previously
fried), and half fill the dish with well-seasoned gravy. Cover with
paste, bake in a moderately hot oven for nearly 1 hour, and as soon
as the pie is baked, pour in the rest of the gravy through the hole
in the centre. Serve either hot or cold.
Time. — To prepare and bake, about 2 hours. Average Cost, is. 3d. to
is. 6d., exclusive of the meat. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
795. — VEAL PATTIES. (Fr. — Bouchees de Veau.)
Ingredients.— Puff paste. For the mixture : 8 ozs. of lean cooked
veal, 2 ozs. of lean cooked ham, 3 or 4 tablespoonfuls of rich stock,
2 tablespoonfuls of cream, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, a pinch of
nutmeg, the grated rind of \ a lemon, salt and pepper.
Method. — Chop the veal and ham very finely, pound it in the mortar
with the salt, pepper, nutmeg, lemon-rind, lemon-juice, moisten by
degrees with the stock, and when perfectly smooth rub through a fine
sieve. Stir in the cream, season to taste, and use. When the paste
is ready for the last turn, roll it out to about of an inch in thickness,
and stamp out 8 or 9 rounds with a hot wet cutter, 2\ inches in diameter.
Brush over with beaten egg, then take a cutter 2 or 3 sizes smaller,
dip it into boiling water, and make an incision in the centre of each
round, to half the depth of the paste. Bake in a hot oven ; when done
remove the tops, scoop out the soft inside, fill with the mixture, replace
the tops, and serve. They may be served either hot or cold ; if the
former, they should first be put into the oven to become thoroughly
hot.
Time. — From 1 to 1} hours, after the paste is made. Average Cost,
is., exclusive of the meat. Sufficient for 8 or 9 patties.
R
4S2 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
796. — VEAL AND HAM PATTIES. (Economical.)
Ingredients. — 12 ozs. of cooked veal, 4 ozs. of either cooked or raw
ham, about { of a pint of stock or water, the grated rind of 1 lemon,
a good pinch of nutmeg, 1 level teaspoonful of salt, 1 level saltspoonful
of pepper, puff paste, rough puff (see pastes).
Method. — Cut the meat into small dice, add to it the salt, pepper,
herbs, and moisten with the stock or water. Make the paste as directed,
roll it out thinly, and stamp out with a cutter a little larger than the
patty-pans as many rounds as possible, and put 12 aside to form the
covers. Roll out the cuttings, stamp into rounds, place one in each
patty-pan, fill with meat, moisten the edges with water, and put on the
covers. Press the edges together, notch them at regular intervals,
make a hole in the centre of the top, and decorate with leaves. Brush
over with egg or milk, and bake for about 20 minutes in a moderately
hot oven.
Time. — 20 minutes to bake. Average Cost, 2d. each. Sufficient for
12 large patties.
797. — VEAL AND HAM PIE. (Fr— Pate de Veau.)
Ingredients. — 1-|- lb. of lean veal (fillet or cushion part), £ of a lb. of
cooked ham, 2 or 3 hard-boiled eggs, about \ a teaspoonful of mixed
dried herbs, a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, a little stock or water,
seasoning, puff or rough puff paste ( see pastes).
Method. — Cut the veal into neat slices, free from skin, also cut the
ham into suitable slices. Arrange a layer of veal in a piedish, then a
layer of ham, and next a layer of thin slices of hard-boiled egg. Season
each layer with a very little salt and pepper, dried herbs and parsley.
Continue thus until the dish is quite full. Pour in about 1 gill of stock,
or, failing this, water. Cover with paste in the usual manner, decorate
the centre tastefully with paste leaves, brush over with egg, and bake
in a moderate oven for about i|- hours.
Time to make and cook, 2 hours. Average Cost, 3s. Sufficient for 7
or 8 persons.
798. — VEAL AND HAM PIE. (Fr.— Pate de Veau.)
Ingredients. — 3 lb. of neck or breast of veal, \ of a lb. of ham or
bacon, 2 hard-boiled eggs, forcemeat balls, the grated rind of 1 lemon,
a good pinch of ground mace, salt and pepper, puff paste, or rough
puff (see pastes).
Method. — Cut the meat into pieces i-|- inches square, put them into a
fireproof dish (a jar placed in a saucepan of water may be substituted,
season with salt and pepper, cover with cold water, and cook gently
either in the oven or on the stove for 2 hours. Meanwhile cut the ham
into narrow strips, the eggs into thin slices, make the forcemeat balls,
RECIPES FOR COOKING VEAL
483
and fry them lightly in a little hot dripping. Make the paste as directed,
roll it out to a suitable thickness, invert the piedish in the centre of it,
and cut round, leaving a margin of about £ of an inch. Line the edge
of the piedish with the trimmings (paste is always lighter when not
re-rolled). The meat must be allowed to cool slightly, but there is no
need to allow it to become quite cold, Cover the bottom of the piedish
with meat, add a few strips of bacon and slices of egg, sprinkle lightly
with salt, pepper, mace and lemon-rind, and intersperse with forcemeat
balls. Repeat until the dish is full, piling the meat high in the centre,
for which elevation the £ of an inch margin of paste is allowed. Half
fill the dish with gravy, put on the cover, moisten and press the edges
together, make a hole in the centre of the top, decorate with leaves,
brush over with egg, and bake from 45 to 60 minutes in a moderately
hot oven. As soon as the pie is baked add a little more well-seasoned
gravy through the hole in the top, and when served hot, send a little
gravy to table in a tureen : the liquor in which the meat was stewed
should provide this. When a pie is intended to be eaten cold, spaces
should be left between the meat for the gravy to form jelly.
Time. — About 3 hours. Average Cost, 3s. 8d. Sufficient for 8 or 10
persons.
799. — VEAL POT PIE. (Fr. — Pate de Veau et Pommes
de terre.)
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of either raw or cooked veal, £ a lb. of pickled
pork, 1 lb. of potatoes parboiled and thickly sliced, stock made from
bones and trimmings (see “ Veal au Gratin ” No. 778), puff paste,
salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the meat into pieces convenient for serving, and cut
the pork into thin small slices. Place the veal and pork in layers in
a piedish, seasoning each layer liberally with salt and pepper, and
£ fill the dish with stock. Cover with an inverted dish, cook in a moder-
ate oven for 1 £ hours, and cool slightly. When using cold meat this
preliminary cooking is not necessary. Add stock to replace the loss,
place the potatoes on the top, and cover with paste. Bake in a moder-
ately hot oven from 40 to 45 minutes, add more hot stock through the
hole in the top, and serve ( see “ Veal and Ham Pie ”).
Time. — To bake, 40 to 45 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. 9d. Sufficient
for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable at any time.
800. — VEAL PUDDING. ( Fr . — Pouding de Veau.)
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of veal, \ a lb. of raw ham, bacon, or pickled pork,
suet paste, salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the meat into rather small neat pieces, and put the
484
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
bones and trimmings aside. Cut the ham, bacon or pork into narrow
strips. Line a well-greased basin thinly with paste, put in the meat,
interspersing strips of bacon, and seasoning liberally with salt and
pepper. Nearly fill the basin with boiling water, put on a thin lid of
paste, and cover with a greased paper ( see “ Beef Steak Pudding ”).
Place the basin in a steamer, or in a saucepan containing boiling water
to half the depth of the basin, and add boiling water as that in the
saucepan reduces. Cook for 3 hours, and serve with good gravy made
from the bones and trimmings.
Time. — To cook, 3 hours. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. to 2s. qd. Sufficient
for 6 or 8 persons. Seasonable at any time.
801. — VEAL RAGOUT. ( Fr . — Ragout deVeau.)
Ingredients.— 2 lb. of neck, breast, or knuckle of veal, 1 £ ozs. of
dripping, \\ ozs. of butter, ozs. of flour, 1 onion cut into dice, 1 carrot
cut into dice, \ a small turnip cut into dice, salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the meat into pieces convenient for serving. Heat the
fat in a stewpan, fry the meat until lightly-browned, then drain off
the fat. Cover the meat with hot water, add the vegetable trimmings,
and keep the carrot, turnip and onion dice in water until required. Season
with salt and pepper, cover with a close-fitting lid, and cook as slowly
as possible for 2 hours, taking care to keep the water just at simmering
point. Meanwhile heat the butter in another stewpan, add the flour,
and stir and cook slowly until it acquires a pale-brown colour. When
the meat is done, strain the liquor, add stock or water to make up
| of a pint, and mix with the blended butter and flour. Stir until
boiling, season to taste, add the meat, and simmer gently for \ an
hour. Serve garnished with the vegetable dice, which should be
boiled separately.
Time. — About 2\ hours. Average Cost, is. 8d. to 2s. Sufficient for
4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.
802. — VEAL ROLLS WITH MIXED VEGETABLES.
( Fr . — Paupiettes de Veau a la Jardiniere.)
Ingredients. — An equal number of thin slices of cooked veal and raw
bacon, sausage meat, stock, i£ ozs. of butter, 1} ozs. of flour, 1 carrot,,
4 a turnip, 20 very small button onions, 2 tablespoonfuls of peas, 6'
peppercorns, salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the meat into slices 34 inches long and 2\ inches wide,,
and put them aside. Turn the carrot and turnip with a pea-shaped
cutter, or cut them into small dice. Put the bones and trimmings'
of the meat into a stewpan, add the peppercorns and trimmings of
carrot and turnip, cover with cold water, boil gently for at least
2 hours, then strain and season to taste. Melt the butter in a stewpan,.
RECIPES FOR COOKING VEAL
485
add the flour, stir and cook slowly until brown, then add the stock,
stir until boiling, and simmer gently for 10 minutes. Spread a little
sausage meat on each slice of veal, roll up lightly, enclose in thin slices
of bacon, and tie securely with string. Place the rolls on end in the
stewpan, cover with a greased paper, put on a close-fitting lid, and cook
gently for 1 hour, basting occasionally with the sauce. Remove the
string, dish in two straight rows, strain the sauce round and garnish
with groups of mixed vegetables, previously cooked separately until
tender.
Time. — Altogether 3^ hours. Average Cost, one dish, about is. 6d.
Sufficient — Allow 2 rolls to each person. Seasonable at any time.
803. — VEAL ROLLS. (See Veal Olives.)
804. — VEAL SAUSAGES. (Fr. — Saucissons de
Veau.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of lean veal, 1 lb. of fat bacon, 1 teaspoonful of
finely-chopped fresh sage, salt and pepper, sausage skins, frying-
fat.
Method. — Chop both veal and bacon finely, add the sage and a liberal
seasoning of salt and pepper. Press lightly into the skins, prick well
and fry in hot fat until nicely-browmcd. If preferred, form into small
round cakes, coat with seasoned flour or eggs and breadcrumbs, and
fry in hot fat.
Time. — To fry, 10 minutes. Average Cost, about is. 6d. for this
quantity.
805. — VEAU SAUTE A LA MARENGO. (Fr.— Filets
de Veau a la Marengo.)
Ingredients.- — 1£ lb. of fillet or cushion of veal, \ of a pint of salad,
oil, 4 of a pint of tomato sauce, £ of a pint of brown sauce ( see Sauces),
1 glass of sherry, 1 truffle, 8 preserved mushrooms, 1 shallot finely-
chopped, poached eggs, fleurons (or little half-moon shapes) of baked
puff-paste, salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the meat into pieces about 2\ inches square. Make
the oil hot in a stewpan, fry the pieces of meat quickly until lightly
browned, and remove them as soon as they are fried. Put in the
shallot, and fry slightly, then drain the oil into a smaller stewpan.
Cut the mushrooms and truffle into slices, add them to the shallots
in the stew-pan, put in the 2 sauces, the wine and meat, season to
taste, cover closely, and cook gently in the oven or on the stove for
about 40 minutes. Fry the eggs in the oil, and make them as plump
and as round as possible. The fleurons of puff-paste should be stamped
out in the form of a crescent, brushed over with egg, and baked in a hot
486 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
oven. Dish the meat in a pyramidal form, strain the sauce over.,
garnish with the sliced truffle, mushrooms, poached eggs, and
fleurons of puff-paste, and serve hot.
Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, 3s. 9d. to 4s. Sufficient for
5 or 6 persons.
806. — VEAL SOUFFLE. (Fv. — Souffle de Veau.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of lean uncooked veal, f of a pint of white sauce,
1 of a pint of double cream, 2 ozs. of butter, 3 eggs, 1 small truffle, a
pinch of nutmeg, salt and pepper, \ a pint of Bechamel or Supreme
sauce.
Method. — Pass the meat 2 or 3 times through the mincing machine,
then pound it in a mortar, adding gradually the butter, white sauce
(cold), and 3 yolks and 1 white of egg, one at a time. Season to taste,
add a little nutmeg, and when the mixture is perfectly smooth rub it
through a fine wire sieve. Whip the cream slightly, whisk the remain-
ing 2 whites of eggs to a stiff froth, and mix lightly with the veal puree.
Have ready a well-buttered plain mould, decorated or not, according to
taste, with sliced or chopped truffles, put in the mixture, cover with
a buttered paper, and steam gently for about 1 hour. Serve with the
Bechamel or Supreme sauce round.
Time. — To prepare and cook, from if to 2 hours. Average Cost, 2s.,
exclusive of the sauce. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
807. — VEAL, SMALL SOUFFLES OF. (Fr — Petits
Souffles de Veau a la Minute.)
Ingredients. — f of a lb. of lean uncooked veal, 3 eggs, \ of a pint of
cream, 1 truffle, salt and pepper, 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of white sauce
(see Sauces).
Method. — Butter some small china souffle cases. Pass the meat
2 or 3 times through a mincing machine, then pound it in a mortar
until smooth, adding the yolks of the eggs one at a time, and the cream
gradually. Season to taste, and rub through a fine wire sieve. Whip
the whites of the eggs stiffly, and stir them lightly into the meat puree.
Put a teaspoonful of the white sauce into each souffle case, and f- fill
with the meat preparation. Sprinkle on the top a little finely-chopped
truffle, place the cases in a baking tin, cover with a buttered paper,
and bake for 1 5 minutes in a moderately hot oven. Serve in the cases.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, is. 3d. to is. 6d. Sufficient for
8 or 10 cases.
808. — VEAL STEW (White). ( Fr . — Blanquette de
Veau.)
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of fillet, neck, loin or breast, 2 ozs. of butter, 2 ozs.
RECIPES FOR COOKING VEAL
487
of flour, 12 preserved mushrooms, 2 sliced onions, a bouquet-garni,
(parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 6 peppercorns, 2 cloves, 2 yolks of eggs,
2 tablespoonfuls of cream, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the meat into pieces about 2 inches square, put them
into a stewpan with the onions, bouquet-garni and peppercorns, cover
with cold water, add a little salt and the lemon-juice, bring to the boil,
skim well, cover, and cook gently for 2 hours. Meanwhile cut the
mushrooms into slices, and warm them in a little of their own liquor.
Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the flour, and cook for 10 minutes
without browning. Remove the meat from the stewpan, strain 1 pint
of the liquor on to the flour and butter, stir until it boils, add the
mushrooms, season to taste, simmer for 10 minutes, then cool slightly.
Beat the yolks of eggs and cream together, add them to the sauce,
and stir by the side of the fire 2 or 3 minutes. Put in the meat, allow
it to become thoroughly hot, without boiling, then season to taste,
and serve.
Time. — About 2\ hours. Average Cost, 3s 3d. to 3s. 6d. with fillet.
Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.
809. — VEAL, STEWED. (Fr.— Ragout de Veau.)
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of the neck or breast of veal, 1 pint of milk, 2 table-
spoonfuls of cream, 1 oz. of butter, 1 tablespoonful of cornflour or flour,
1 small onion, 1 blade of mace, salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the meat into pieces convenient for serving, place
them in a fireproof stewing pot, season with salt and pepper, add
the onion and mace, pour in the milk, cover closely, and cook gently
in the oven or on the stove for 2I- or 3 hours. A few minutes before
serving, knead the butter and flour or cornflour smoothly together,
divide into very small portions, and stir them into the milk. When flour
is used, it must be allowed to cook for at least 10 minutes. Put the
meat on to a hot dish, add the cream to the sauce, season to taste,
strain over the meat. The sauce is never perfectly white, therefore
it is better to add 1 or 2 drops of caramel to make it a pale fawn
colour.
Time. — From 2\ to 3 hours. Average Cost, 2s. Sufficient for 4 or
5 persons.
810. — VEAL, STEWED. (Fr. — Ragout de Veau.)
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of loin or neck of veal, 2 or 3 slices of bacon, \ a
pint of shelled peas, J of a pint each of turnip and carrot (scooped out
into pea-shaped pieces or cut into dice), 1 \ ozs. of butter, 1 tablespoonful
of tomato sauce, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, 1 blade of mace, a bouquet
garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), pepper and salt.
Method. — Divide the meat into cutlets, and trim them neatly. Melt
488
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
the butter in a stewpan, and fry the cutlets lightly on both sides. Add
the bacon in slices, a few trimmings of turnip and carrot, the meat
trimmings, mace, bouquet-garni, salt and pepper, and as much boiling
stock or water as will over the whole. Stew gently for about 2\ hours,
keeping the stewpan closely covered. Cook the vegetables separately,
and drain them well. When done, remove the meat from the stewpan,
strain the gravy, return it to the stewpan, add the bacon cut into dice
tomato sauce, lemon-juice, prepared vegetables, and the meat. Season
to taste, re-heat, and serve.
Time. — From 2\ to 3 hours. Average Cost, 3s. Sufficient for 4 or 5
persons.
Cow-pox, or Variola, the vaccine disease which appears on the teats of cows, accompanied with
inflammation. The vesicles of a blue or livid hue contain a colourless, somewhat viscid, fluid, com-
posed principally of bioplasm, which by the medium of vaccination communicates cow-pox to the
human subject, and acts as a preventive against the more virulent forms of small pox. The practice
of vaccination owes its origin to Dr. Jenner, a native of Berkeley, Gloucestershire, where he was born
in 1749. After studying under the celebrated anatomist, John Hunter, Dr. Jenner settled in his
native town. Observing that cows were subject to a certain infectious eruption of the teats, and that
the persons who were engaged in milking such cattle escaped small-pox, or had it in a less virulent
form, he made inquiries into the subject, the result being the introduction of vaccination into
England in 1796.
The Cattle Plague, or Rinderpest. — This terrible disease is ofTiighly contagious and malignant
type, attacking animals of the ox tribe, and usually proves fatal. The symptoms are characterized
by great depression of the vital powers, frequent shivering, staggering gait, cold extremities, quick
and short breathing, drooping head and reddened eyes, high temperature, the discharge of a foetid
secretion from the mouth, nose, and eyes, and failure of the heart’s action. The attack is generally
of seven days’ duration. The cattle plague originated in the Asiatic steppes — hence the name by
which it is sometimes called, steppe-murrain — where millions of cattle are bred and pastured on the
rich pasturage of the plains. Various remedies have been tried for curing the disease, but the only
effectual method is “ stamping out ” the plague, by slaughtering the infected cattle, and prohibiting
by an Order in Council the importation of animals from infected districts. It is probable that the
disease known in the Middle Ages as “murrain,” was identical with the rinderpest. It made its
appearance in England in 1865, when nearly 300,000 cattle either died of the plague, or were
slaughtered to prevent contagion.
811.— VEAL TENDONS, PALESTINE STYLE. ( Fr .—
Tendrons de Veau a la Palestine.)
Ingredients. — The thick end of a breast of veal, i quart of stock,
1 glass of sherry, i onion, i small carrot, £ a small turnip, a bouquet-
garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 6 peppercorns, 2 cloves, \ a pint of
Espagnole sauce ( see Sauces). For the garnish : 6 small artichoke
bottoms, \ a lb. of Jerusalem artichokes, £ a pint of milk, \ an oz. of
butter, the yolk of 1 egg, a few white breadcrumbs, 1 tablespoonful
of white sauce, salt and pepper.
Method.— Cut the tendons into pieces about 2 inches square, put
them into a stewpan with the stock, wine, vegetables, herbs, pepper-
corns, cloves, and salt, cook gently until tender (from 3 to 4
hours), then remove carefully, and press between 2 dishes until cold.
Strain the stock they were cooked in, return it to the saucepan, and
boil rapidly to reduce. Wash and peel the Jerusalem artichokes,
cut them into thick slices, boil until tender in milk and water, then
RECIPES FOR COOKING VEAL
489
drain, and rub through a fine sieve. Put the artichoke puree into a
stewpanwith the butter, white sauce and yolk of egg, season to taste,
and stir by the side of the fire until the mixture thickens. Warm
the artichoke bottoms, fill them with the artichoke puree, shaping the
mixture in the form of a dome, or pyramid, cover lightly with the
breadcrumbs, add a few small pieces of butter, and bake in a hot oven
for 10 minutes. When the stock has boiled down to a very small
quantity, add to it the brown sauce, boil, and reduce until the arti-
chokes are ready for the oven, then put in the tendons to re-heat.
When ready, dish in a circle, garnish the centre with the artichokes,
pour the sauce round, and serve.
Note. — Spinach, green peas, or any other suitable vegetable may be served
instead of artichokes.
Time. — 5 to 5^ hours. Average Cost, 5s. 6d. to 6s. 6d., exclusive of
veal. Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.
812. — VEAL TENDONS. (Fr. Tendrons de Veau.)
The tendons of veal are the cartilaginous or gristly portions found
at the extremity of the bones towards the thick end of a breast of veal.
They may, of course, be dressed with the joint, except when it is roasted
or baked. The tendons must first be rendered perfectly tender by
long and gentle stewing, and afterwards may be dressed in a variety
of ways. They cannot be bought separately, but as they are confined
principally to the thicker half of the breast, that part alone should be
procured. The meat from which they are removed may be used for
many purposes ( see Nos. 798, 799, 800, 801 and 809).
813. — VEAL TENDONS WITH VEGETABLES.
(Fr. — Tendrons de Veau a la Jardiniere.)
Ingredients. — The thick half of a breast of veal, thin rashers of bacon
a pint of white stock, \ an oz. of meat glaze, 1 carrot, 1 onion, ^ a
turnip, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 2 strips of celery,
6 peppercorns, 3 cloves, 1 blade of mace, 1 oz. of butter, salt. For the
garnish : peas, beans, cauliflower, carrot, turnip, etc., £ pint of white
sauce, 1 tablespoonful of cream, salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the tendon into pieces about 2 inches square, and wrap
each piece in a thin slice of bacon. Cut the vegetables into thick
slices, put them into a shallow stewpan or sautepan with the stock, butter,
herbs, cloves, peppercorns and mace, lay on the pieces of meat, cover
closely, and cook very gently for 2 or 3 hours. Remove the tendons,
strain the liquor into a small stewpan, skim well, add the meat-glaze, put
in the tendons, and allow them to become thoroughly hot, and well coated
with the sauce. Have ready a macedoine of vegetables, which may
consist of any or all of those enumerated above, with the addition of any
490
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
other preferred. The cauliflower should be separated into small
sprays, the beans cut into short lengths, the turnip and carrot either
scooped out with a round cutter or cut into dice ; all must be separately
boiled and tender, but not broken. Add the cream to the white sauce,
and when thoroughly hot, put in the macedoine of vegetables to re-
heat. Dish the tendons on a border of mashed potatoes, pour the
sauce over them, and serve the jardiniere garnish in the centre.
Time. — From 3 to 4 hours. Average Cost, 2s. 3d., exclusive of the
meat. Sufficient for a dish for 7 or 8 persons.
814.— VEAL TENDONS, FRIED. {Fr.— Tendrons de
Veau Panees.)
Ingredients. — The thick end of a breast of veal, 1 \ pints of stock
1 onion sliced, 1 carrot sliced, \ a turnip cut into small pieces, 2 strips
of celery, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 12 peppercorns,
egg, breadcrumbs, frying-fat, salt and pepper, tomato or Espagnole
sauce.
Method. — Remove the meat from the tendons, and divide them into
pieces about 2 inches square. Put them into a stewpanwith the vege-
tables, bouquet-garni, peppercorns, stock and salt, and cook very
gently for 4 hours. Remove them very carefully from the stewpan.
press between two dishes until cold, then trim them if necessary, coat
with egg and breadcrumbs, and. fry in hot fat until nicely browned.
Time. — About 5 hours. Average Cost, is. 8d., exclusive of the meat.
Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.
815.— VEAL TENDONS FRIED IN BATTER.
( Fr . — Tendrons de Veau a l’Horly.)
Ingredients.— The thick end of a breast of veal. For the marinade
2 tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, 1 tablespoonful of vinegar, 1 teaspoonful
of finely-chopped onion, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, salt
and pepper. For the batter: 2 ozs. of flour, 1 tablespoonful of salad
oil, y a gill of tepid water, the white of 1 egg, salt, frying-fat.
Method. — Prepare and cook the tendons as directed in the preceding
recipe ; when cold, divide the squares into narrow strips, place them
in a deep dish, pour over the marinade, and allow them to soak for at
least 1 hour. Drain well, dip each piece in the batter, and fry in hot
fat until lightly browned. Pile on a hot dish, garnish with fried parsley,
and serve. The batter should be allowed to stand for some time before
being used. The flour, salt, salad oil and water should be mixed
smoothly together, and the stiffly- whipped white of egg added just
before using.
Time. — 4 to 5 hours. Average Cost, from 2s. 6d. to 3s. Sufficient for
7 or 8 persons.
RECIPES FOR COOKING VEAL 491
816.— VEAL WITH PARSLEY SAUCE. (Fr. — Veau
a la Poulette.)
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of fillet of veal, f of a pint of white sauce, No. 222,,
1 oz. of butter, 1 dessertspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 1 dessert-
spoonful of lemon-juice, 1 yolk of egg, salt and pepper.
Method. — If the meat is not one compact piece, bind it into a good
shape with tape. Melt the butter in a stewpan, fry the meat gently
until the entire surface is lightly browned, then add the white sauce
and seasoning to taste. Cover closely, simmer gently from 2 to 2\
hours, then take up the meat and keep it hot. Strain and return the
sauce to the stewpan, add the parsley, lemon-juice, and yolk of egg,
stir until the sauce thickens, then pour it over the veal, and serve.
Time. — From to 3 hours. Average Cost, 3s. Sufficient for 5 or
6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
RECIPES FOR COOKING
BEEF.
CHAPTER XVI
817. — BEEF A LA MODE. (Fr.— Bceuf a la Mode.)
Ingredients. — 3 lb. of rump of beef, larding bacon, 1 quart of stock,
1 glass of claret, ozs. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, 2 carrots, 1 finely-
chopped small onion, 10 button onions, a bouquet-garni (parsley,
thyme, bay-leaf), the juice of \ a lemon, 2 cloves, salt and pepper.
Method. — Trim, bone and lard the meat, place it in a basin with the
wine, lemon-juice, chopped onion, cloves, salt, pepper, and bouquet-
garni, and let it stand for 2 hours, basting it frequently. Melt the
butter in a stewpan, drain the beef, and fry it brown, and, at the same
time, lightly fry the button onions. Remove both from the stewpan,
put in the flour, and fry until it acquires a nut-brown colour, then add
the stock and the wine-marinade in which the meat was soaked, and
stir until boiling. Replace the meat and onions, season to taste,
add the carrots thinly sliced, and cook gently for 2\ or 3 hours, stirring
and skimming occasionally. When done, place on a hot dish, strain
the sauce over, and garnish with little groups of onions and carrot.
Time. — 2\ to 3 hours. Average Cost, 3s. to 3s. 6d. Sufficient for 8
or 9 persons.
Good Meat. — If the animal when slaughtered is in a state of perfect health, the meat
adheres firmly to the bones. Beef of the best quality is of a deep-red colour, and if the animal has
reached maturity and been well fed, the lean is intermixed with fat, which produces the mottled
appearance characteristic of the finer qualities of beef. The juice, which is abundant, resembles
claret in colour. The fat of the best beef is firm and wavy, and of the tint of the finest grass
butter, bright in appearance, neither greasy nor friable to the touch, but moderately unctuous.
818. — BEEF, BAKED. ( Fr . — Boeuf cuit au Four.)
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of cold roast beef, about 2 lb. of mashed potatoes
2 small onions, 2 small carrots, 1 teaspoonful of powdered mixed herbs,
salt and pepper, 1 pint of gravy.
Method. — Remove the bones and the brown outside parts of the meat,
492
RECirES FOR COOKING BEEF
493
simmer them slowly for at least 2 hours, strain, season, and use as
gravy. Cut the meat into thin small slices, cook the vegetables and cut
them into very thin slices. Spread a thin layer of mashed potato on the
bottom of a pie-dish, on the top place a few slices of meat, add a little
carrot and onion, sprinkle on some of the herbs, and season well with salt
and pepper. Repeat until the dish is full, pour in as much gravy as the
dish will hold, cover with the mashed potato, and bake in a moderate
oven until the surface is well browned. The potato should be smoothed
and shaped by means of a knife to resemble as nearly as possible a
paste crust ; and the appearance may be further improved by brushing
over the top with beaten egg, or a little milk. Serve the remainder
of the gravy separately.
Time. — To bake, about } of an hour. Average Cost, 46.., exclusive
of the meat. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Beef (Fr. boeuf). — The quality of beef is determined by various conditions, such as the age. the sex
the breed, and the food upon which the animal has been raised. Bull beef, as a general rule, is dry
and tough, and of an inferior flavour. That of the ox is highly nourishing and digestible. The flesh
of the cow is also nutritious, but is less palatable than that of the ox ; that of the heifer is greatly
esteemed. The flesh of the small sized breeds is much sweeter than that of the larger kinds. It
is in the greatest perfection when the animal is about 4 years old.
819. — BEEF CAKE. (Fr. — Gateau de Boeuf.)
Ingredients. — i lb. of cold roast beef, 4 ozs. of breadcrumbs, 1 small
onion chopped finely, 2 ozs. of cooked ham or bacon, 1 teaspoonful
chopped parsley, pepper and salt, 1 egg, 1 gill of stock, about 2 ozs. of
bread raspings, 1 oz. of butter.
Method. — Grease a plain mould or shallow cake tin, put in the raspings,
and turn the mould round until quite covered with the raspings. Melt
the butter, fry the onion until slightly brown, mince the beef and bacon
finely, and then mix all the ingredients together, using more stock if
the mixture is very dry. Then turn into the prepared mould, press
carefully into shape, cover with a greased paper, and bake in a moderate
oven for about 45 minutes. Turn out carefully, and pour a little brown
sauce round.
Time.— To bake, about 45 minutes. Average Cost, 6d., exclusive
of the meat. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
820. — BEEF, COLLARED. (Fr. — Boeuf epice.)
Ingredients. — 7 lb. of thin end of the flank of beef, 2 ozs. of coarse
sugar, 6 ozs. of salt, 1 oz. of saltpetre, 1 large handful of parsley minced,
1 dessertspoonful of minced sage, a bunch of savoury herbs, \ a teaspoon-
ful of pounded allspice ; salt and pepper to taste.
Method. — Choose fine tender beef, but not too fat ; lay it in a dish,
rub in the sugar, salt and saltpetre, and let it remain in the pickle for
a week or 10 days, turning and rubbing it every day. Then bone it,
remove all the gristle and the coarse skin of the inside part, and sprinkle
494
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
it thickly with parsley, herbs, seasoning, in the above proportions,
taking care that the former are finely minced. Roll the meat up in a
cloth as tightly as possible, bind it firmly with broad tape, and boil it
gently for 6 hours. Immediately on taking it out of the pot, put it
under a good weight, without undoing it, and let it remain until cold.
Time.— 6 hours. Average Cost, 3s. 6d. to 4s. Seasonable at any
time.
Note. — During the time the beef is in pickle, it should be kept cool, and
regularly rubbed and turned every day.
821. — BEEF COLLOPS. ( See Scotch Collops.)
822. — BEEF CROQUETTES. (Fr. — Croquettes de
Boeuf.)
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of lean cooked beef, \ a pint of gravy or stock,
\ an oz. of butter, \ an oz. of flour, \ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped
parsley, a pinch of nutmeg, salt and pepper, about 4 ozs. of paste,
1 egg, vermicelli or breadcrumbs, frying-fat.
Methods — Chop the meat very finely. Heat the butter in a small
stewpan, fry the onion slightly, stir in the flour, add the stock, and
boil well. Now add the meat, parsley, and nutmeg, season to taste,
and when well mixed turn on a plate to cool. Roll the paste out to the
thickness of foolscap paper, cut it into rounds of ij or 2 inches diameter,
place a little of the meat mixture on one half, moisten the edges of the
paste, fold the other half over, making the croquette half-moon or
crescent shape, and press the edges of the paste together. Brush
them over with beaten egg, roll them in crushed vermicelli or bread-
crumbs, and fry in hot fat.
Time. — From 40 to 50 minutes. Average Cost, yd., exclusive of the
meat. Sufficient for 1 dish.
823. — BEEF CROQUETTES. (. Fr.—See Veal Cro-
quettes.)
824. — BEEF GALANTINE. (Fr.— Galantine de Boeuf.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of lean beef, \ a lb. of bacon, 6 ozs. of breadcrumbs,
2 eggs, \ of a pint of stock, salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the beef and bacon into small pieces, add the bread-
crumbs, a liberal seasoning of salt and pepper, and mix well to-
gether. Beat the eggs, add to them the stock, and stir into the dry
ingredients. Shape the mixture into a short thick roll, tie it in a
RECIPES FOR COOKING BEEF
495
buttered pudding cloth, boil gently in stock or water for 2 or 2\ hours,
then press until cold. Before serving, brush over with dissolved meat
glaze, and decorate with creamed butter, or aspic jelly.
Time. — To cook, from 2 to 2\ hours. Average Cost, is. 9d.
825. — BEEF, HASHED. (Fr.— Hachis de Bceuf.)
Ingredients.— 1 lb. of cold roast beef cut into slices, 1 onion sliced,
2 ozs. of streaky bacon, 1 oz. of butter, £ of a pint of Spanish and
Tomato sauces in equal proportions.
Method. — Melt the butter, add the bacon cut into dice, then the
onions, and fry a light brown. Now lay in the slices of meat, pour the
sauces over, and cook slowly for \ an hour, without boiling. Dish up
neatly with croutes of bread fried in fat as garnish.
Time. — About £ of an hour. Average Cost, is. 6d. to is. gd.
826. — BEEF, HASHED. {Fr.— Hachis de Boeuf.)
Ingredients.— 1 lb. of cold roast beef cut into slices, 1 pint of stock,
1 \ ozs. of butter, 1 \ ozs. of beef dripping, i-|- ozs. of flour, 1 sliced onion,
1 small sliced carrot, \ a sliced turnip, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme,
bay-leaf), 6 peppercorns, salt and pepper.
Method. — Trim off the brown outside parts of the meat, remove the
bones, and break them into small pieces. Melt the dripping in a stew-
pan, put in the bones, trimmings of meat, bouquet-garni, and vege-
tables, fry until well browned, then drain olf the fat. Cover with ccld
water, add the peppercorns and a little salt, boil gently for at least
2 hours, then strain and remove the fat. Melt the butter in a stewpan,
put in the flour, and stir over the Are until a brown roux is formed,
when add 1 pint of the stock from the bones, and stir until boiling.
Let the sauce simmer gently for 20 minutes, then add seasoning to
taste, and when slightly cooled lay in the slices of meat, draw the sauce-
pan aside, cover closely, and let it remain for about ^ an hour, where
the contents will be kept hot without boiling. Garnish with croutes of
fried bread, or groups of turnips and carrot cut into dice or julienne
strips, and boiled separately.
Time.— About 1 hour, after the stock is made. Average Cost, is. qd.,
to is. 6d. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
827. — BEEF, CURRIED. {Fr.— Kan de Boeuf.)
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of lean tender uncooked beef, i£ pints of stock
or water, 2 ozs. of butter, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, 1 dessertspoon-
ful of curry-powder, 1 teaspoonful of curry-paste, 1 sour apple, 2
496
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
small onions coarsely-chopped, i dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, salt,
4 ozs. of rice.
Method. — Cut the meat into slices about \ an inch thick and i inch
square. Melt the butter in a stewpan, fry the meat quickly and lightly,
then take it out on to a plate, put in the onion, flour, and curry-powder,
and fry gently for io minutes. Add the stock, curry-paste, apple
sliced, and salt to taste, boil, replace the meat, cover closely, and cook
gently for hours. Boil the rice, drain and dry thoroughly. When
the meat is done, remove it to a hot dish, season the sauce to taste,
add the lemon-juice, and strain over the meat. The rice should
be served separately.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, 2s. to 2s. 6d. Sufficient for
5 or 6 persons.
828. — BEEF FRITTERS. {Fr— Beignets de Bceuf.)
Ingredients. — £ of a lb. of cold roast beef, 6 ozs. of flour, 2 tablespoon-
fuls of oiled butter, J of a pint of tepid water, the whites of 2 eggs,
£ a teaspoonful of powdered mixed herbs, the rind of \ a lemon, a good
pinch of nutmeg, salt and pepper, frying-fat.
Method. — Chop the meat finely. Mix the flour, tepid water and melted
butter into a smooth batter, add to it the meat, herbs, lemon rind,
nutmeg, salt and pepper to taste, and lastly the stiffly-whipped
whites of eggs. Have ready a deep pan of hot fat, drop in the mix-
ture in tablespoonfuls, and fry until golden-brown. Drain well, dish in
a pyramidal form on a folded napkin or dish-paper, and garnish with
fried parsley. The mixture may be varied by the addition of a tea-
spoonful of powdered sage, and a tablespoonful of parboiled and finely-
chopped onion, instead of lemon-rind and nutmeg.
Time. — To prepare and cook, about 1 hour. Average Cost, 6d., ex-
clusive of the meat. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
829. — BEEF OLIVES. (Fr— Olives de Boeuf.)
Ingredients. — lb. of rump steak, veal forcemeat ( see Forcemeats),
| of a pint of either Espagnole or brown sauce.
Method. — Remove all fat from the meat, cut it into very thin slices,
about 4 inches long and 2 inches wide, and flatten them with a wet
cutlet-bat or rolling pin. Prepare the forcemeat as directed, spread
a little on each slice of meat, roll up tightly, and tie securely with twine.
Have the brown sauce ready in a stewpan, bring it to boiling point,
put in the olives, and simmer gently for about 1 hour. Remove the
strings, arrange the olives in 2 rows on a bed of mashed potato, and
strain the sauce over.
JOINTS
i . — Sirloin of Beef.
2. — Boiled Beef.
3. — Leg of Mutton
4. -Roast Ribs of Beef.
RECIPES FOR COOKING BEEF 497
Time. — i hour to cook. Average Cost, about 2s. 6d. to 3s. Sufficient
for 6 or 7 persons.
Note. — Sausage meat may be used instead of forcemeat in preparing this
dish.
830. — BEEF ROLLS OR OLIVES. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — ij lb. of rump steak, veal forcemeat ( see Forcemeats),
J of a pint of stock or water, 1 \ ozs. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, 1 small
onion sliced, a few slices of carrot, salt and pepper.
Method. — Prepare, stuff, and bind the olives as in the preceding
recipe. Heat the butter in a stewpan, fry the olives until their entire
surface is lightly browned, then remove them from the stewpan. Now
put in the carrot and onion, fry quickly for 3 or 4 minutes, then sprinkle
in the flour, fry brown, pour in the stock, and stir until boiling. Re-
place the olives in the stewpan, add salt and pepper, cover with a
greased paper and the lid of the stewpan, and simmer slowly for iC
hours. Remove the strings, dish the olives on a bed of mashed potato,
season the sauce to taste, and strain it over them.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, 2s. to 2s. 4d. Sufficient for 6
or 7 persons.
831. — BEEF, RIB BONES OF.
Ingredients. — Rib bones, 1 carrot, 1 turnip, 1 onion finely chopped,
£ of a pint of good gravy, salt and pepper, mashed potato.
Method. — The bones should have on them a slight covering of meat.
Peel the carrot and turnip, scoop out small pea shapes with a special
cutter, or, if more convenient, cut them into dice. Saw the bones
into pieces 3 inches long, place them in a stewpan with the turnip,
carrot and onion, add the gravy, and season to taste. Stew very
gently until the vegetables are tender, and serve piled within a border
of mashed potato.
Time. — About f of an hour. Average Cost, exclusive of the bones, 4d.
Seasonable at any time.
832. — BEEFSTEAK, GRILLED
Ingredients. — 1£ lb. of steak cut off the fillet, rump, sirloin or
tenderloin, £ oz. of butter, salt and pepper.
Method. — Grilling is a very simple process in cookery, the success of
which depends almost entirely upon the fire being clear bright and
free from smoke. A handful of salt will assist in clearing the fire ;
it should be sprinkled on the top a few minutes before required for
498
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
use. Before using the gridiron it should be heated and the bars well
rubbed with paper, and afterwards with fat or suet, to prevent the meat
sticking to them. The chief point in grilling is to quickly harden the
outside of the meat, in order to keep in the flavour and goodness, and
this result is achieved more quickly if the meat be brushed over with
salad-oil or warm butter before grilling. The steak should be turned
frequently, by means of steak-tongs, or failing these a fork, which
must not, however, be thrust into the lean part of the meat to make
holes through which the juices of the meat would escape. A steak
cooked to perfection should be very dark on the outside, and the inside
red and full of gravy. When done, spread the butter lightly on the
surface, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and serve on a very hot dish.
If liked, the dish may be garnished with watercress or scraped horse-
radish. Oyster sauce, grilled or baked tomatoes, or fried onions, are
frequently served with beefsteak ; they must always be cooked first,
as the shortest possible time must be allowed to elapse between the
steak leaving the grill and being served.
Time.— io to 15 minutes, for steaks of average thickness. Average
Cost, is. 2d. to is. qd. per lb. Sufficient, for 4 persons.
Different Seasons for Beef. — The Scots breed of oxen is esteemed the first in quality. Each
county has its particular season, and the London and other large markets are supplied by those coun-
ties where animals, from local circumstances, are in the best condition. Thus, the season in Norfolk
and Suffolk, from whence the Scots come, begins about Christmas and ends about June, their
place being then taken by grass fed oxen. A large quantity of most excellent beef is sent from Scot-
land, and some of the best London butchers are supplied from this source.
833.— BEEFSTEAK, FRIED.
Ingredients. — 1-| lb. of rump steak, salt and pepper, butter or frying-
fat.
Method. — Although this method of cooking steaks is not to be re-
commended, it is often more convenient than grilling, and with proper
care the tender juicy qualities of the steak may be preserved, but it
is less easily digested, in consequence of the fat in which it is fried.
Make the butter or fat hot in a frying-pan, have sufficient to
barely cover the bottom of the pan, put in the steak, fry one side
quickly, then turn and fry the other side. When the entire surface
is browned and hardened the cooking should be done a little more
slowly, to avoid burning the fat in the pan, the steak being repeatedly
turned. The steak may be served with a little butter spread lightly
on the surface, or with gravy. To make this, drain off all the fat,
add a little boiling water to the sediment in the frying-pan, season
with salt and pepper, boil up, skim, strain, and serve round the dish
or separately in a sauce-boat.
Time. — From 10 to 15 minutes. Average Cost, from is. 2d. to is.qd-
per lb. Sufficient for 4 to 5 persons.
RECIPES FOR COOKING BEEF
499
834. — BEEFSTEAK AND FRIED POTATOES.
( Fr . — Bifteck aux Pommes de Terre Frites.)
Ingredients.— 2 lb. of rump steak, 1 \ ozs. of butter, 1 good tea-
spoonful of finely-chopped parsley, \ a teaspoonful of lemon-juice
cayenne, salt, 4 or 5 potatoes, frying-fat.
Method. — Knead the butter, parsley, lemon-juice, and a little cayenne
together, spread the mixture smoothly on a plate, and put it aside,
to become firm and cold. Peel the potatoes, cut them across into
slices, and dry thoroughly in a cloth. Have ready a deep pan of fat,
put the potatoes into a frying-basket, lower them into the fat, and
cook until tender. Stand the basket and potatoes on a plate or baking
sheet until the fat boils up again, then replace them in the pan, and
fry for 2 or 3 minutes to make them crisp. Meanwhile, grill the steak
over a clear bright fire ( see p. 497), and stamp the maitre d’hotel
butter into rounds, by means of a small cutter. Serve the steak
on a hot dish, garnished with the potatoes, with the pats of butter placed
on the top of it.
Time. — 7 to 10 minutes to cook the steak, according to thickness.
Average Cost, 2s. 6d. to 2s. iod. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
835. — BEEFSTEAK PIE. (Fr.— Pate de Bceuf.)
• Ingredients. — 2 lb. of beefsteak, 1 tablespoonful of flour, 1 level tea-
spoonful of salt, \ a teaspoonful of pepper, the yolk of an egg, puff
paste or short crust paste.
Method. — Cut the meat into thin slices, about 3 inches in length
and width, but of no particular shape. Mix the flour, salt, and pepper
together on a plate, dip the slices of meat in the mixture, and place
them in a pie-dish, which should be sufficiently small to allow the
meat to be well raised in the centre, and thus give to the pie a desirable
plump appearance. Sprinkle the rest of the seasoning mixture between
the layers of meat, and pour in enough boiling water to f- fill the
dish. Make the paste as directed, roll it out to a suitable thickness,
invert a pie-dish of the same size as the one filled with meat, in the
centre of the paste, and cut round, leaving a margin of about -|- of an
inch. Line the edge of the dish with the trimmings, for paste is
always lighter when not re-rolled. Put on the cover, ease it well
over the raised meat, for which purpose the J of an inch margin was
allowed, moisten and press the edges together, and notch them at
regular intervals. Make a hole in the centre of the top, decorate with
leaves, and brush over with the yolk of egg. The pie must be
baked in a hot oven until the paste has risen and set, afterwards it
must be cooked more slowly, otherwise the paste will be over-
baked before the meat is done. Before serving, pour in through the
5oo
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
hole in the top either a little beef gravy, or hot water seasoned with
salt and pepper.
Time. — To bake the pie, about 2 hours. Average Cost, 2s. 6d.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
Note. — If preferred, the meat may be partially cooked before covering
with paste. In which case it should be closely packed in a pie-dish or baking-
dish, covered with an inverted dish or tin, and gently cooked in the oven
for about i£ hours. A saucepan is not to be recommended for this pre-
liminary process, for unless the meat is closely packed it is apt to curl up
and lose its shape. The meat must be transferred to a cold pie-dish, and al-
lowed to cool slightly before being covered with paste.
836.— BEEFSTEAK AND KIDNEY PIE. (Fr.— Pate
de Boeuf et de Rognon.)
Ingredients. — The same as the preceding recipe, with the addition
of 2 sheep’s kidneys, or \ a lb. of ox kidney.
Method. — Cut the kidney into thin slices across, place 1 on each
slice of meat, roll up tightly, and put the rolls on end in the piedish.
In other respects proceed as directed in the recipe for “ Beefsteak
Pie.”
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, 3s. Sufficient for 6 or 7
persons.
837. — BEEFSTEAK AND OYSTER PIE. (Fr.— Pate
de Boeuf aux Huitres.)
Ingredients. — The same as the preceding recipe, substituting 2 dozen
sauce oysters for the kidney.
Method. — Beard the oysters, and blanch the beards in the oyster
liquor, which must be re-heated, seasoned, strained and added to the
gravy in the pie just before serving. Place an oyster on each slice
of meat, roll up tightly, and put the rolls on end in the piedish.
See “Beefsteak Pie ” lor directions for making.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, 4s. 6d., Sufficient for 6 or 7
persons.
838. — BEEFSTEAK AND POTATO PIE. (Fr.— Pate
de Boeuf et de Pommes de Terre.)
Ingredients. — 1| lb. of beefsteak, potatoes to fill the dish, 1 small
onion parboiled and finely-chopped, 1 tablespoonful of flour, 1 teaspoon-
ful of salt, \ a teaspoonful of pepper, short crust paste.
Method.— Peel the potatoes, and cut them into thick slices. Cut
the meat into thin slices, about 2 inches long and an inch wide. Mix
RECIPES FOR COOKING BEEF
5oi
the flour, salt and pepper together on a plate, dip the slices of meat
in the mixture, and roll them up tightly. Line the bottom of the pie-
dish with slices of potato, sprinkle with salt and pepper, cover with
rolls of meat, and add a little onion, but use it very sparingly unless
the flavour is much liked. Repeat until the dish is full, add boil-
ing water to f fill the dish, and cover with paste ( see Pastes). Bake
for 2 hours in a moderately hot oven, and, before serving, pour
a little hot beef gravy, or hot water seasoned with salt and pepper,
through the hole in the top.
Time. — To bake, about 2 hours. Average Cost, 2s. to 2s. 2d.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
839. — BEEF AU GRATIN. {Fr. — Bceuf au Gratin.)
Ingredients. — f of a lb. of cold beef, very finely minced, 1 oz. of butter
1 oz. of flour, f of a pint of stock, 1 small Spanish onion sliced, 1 small
onion, a few slices of carrot, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf),
salt and pepper, breadcrumbs.
Method. — Break up the bones, put them into a stewpan, add the
trimmings off the meat, the small onion, bouquet-garni, carrot, and a
seasoning of salt and pepper. Cover with cold water, simmer gently
for 1 hour, then strain and add stock or water to make up f of a pint.
Melt the butter in a saucepan, fry the Spanish onion until lightly-
browned, then add the flour and stir and cook slowly until it acquires
a nut-brown colour. Put in the stock, stir until boiling, season to
taste, simmer gently for 20 minutes, then strain and add to the meat.
Fill well-buttered scallop shells with the preparation, cover rather
thickly with breadcrumbs, and add a few bits of butter. Bake in a
moderate oven until the surface is nicely browned, then serve.
Time. — To bake, from 10 to 15 minutes. Average Cost, is. 3d.
840. — BEEFSTEAK PUDDING. {Fr. — Pouding de
Bceuf a, l’Anglaise.)
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of beefsteak, 1 tablespoonful of flour, 1 level
teaspoonful of salt, \ a teaspoonful of pepper, 1 lb. of suet paste.
Method. — Cut the meat into thin slices, about 3 inches in length and
width, but not necessarily uniform in shape. Mix the flour, salt and
pepper together on a plate, and dip each slice in the mixture. Make
the paste as directed, cut off about £ of it, and put it aside for the lid,
roll out the remainder to the size of the basin, which must be pre-
viously well greased. Line the basin with the paste, put in the meat,
sprinkle the rest of the seasoning mixture between the layers, and
502
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
leave spaces to admit water, thus preventing the pudding be-
coming too dry. Three-quarters fill the basin with boiling water,
which extracts less of the juices of the meat than cold water, put on
the cover, and moisten and seal the edges. If the pudding is to be
boiled, tie over a scalded and floured pudding cloth. If steamed, cover
with a greased paper. Let the water be quite boiling, put in the
pudding, and boil for 3-|- hours, or steam for 4 hours.
Time. — From 4 to 4J hours to cook. Average Cost, 2s. 4d. Sufficient
for 5 or 6 persons.
841. — BEEFSTEAK AND KIDNEY PUDDING.
(Fr. — Pouding de Boeuf et de Rognon.)
Ingredients. — The same as in the preceding recipe, with the addition
of 2 sheep’s kidneys, or \ a lb. of ox kidney.
Method. — Cut the kidney into thin slices 3 inches long and 2 inches
wide, dip them in the seasoning mixture, place one on each slice of
meat, roll up tightly, and place the rolls on end in the basin. In other
respects, proceed as directed in the recipe for “ Beefsteak Pudding.”
Time. — 4 to 4 \ hours. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for 5 or 6
persons.
842. -BEEF PALATES, TO DRESS. ( See Ox Palates
Stewed.)
843. — BEEF QUENELLES EN CHAUDFROID.
( Fv . — Quenelles de Boeuf en Chaudfroid.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of lean beefsteak, \ of a pint of Espagnole sauce,
1 of a pint of Tomato sauce ( see Sauces), j of a pint of aspic jelly,
(see Aspic), \ an oz. of leaf gelatine, 2 eggs, 2 olives, 2 anchovies,
salt and pepper. For the panada 1 oz. of butter, 2 ozs. of flour, \ of a
pint of stock. For the garnish, hard-boiled white of egg, coarsely-
chopped aspic jelly, and salad.
Method. — Make the quenelles according to recipe for veal quenelles,
pounding the fillets of anchovy and the stoned olives with the meat.
Shape and poach the quenelles, and, when cold, coat 6 of them with
the Espagnole sauce, in which 4 or 5 sheets of gelatine have been dis-
solved, and 6 with tomato sauce, which must also be stiffened with
gelatine. Decorate the quenelles with small, fancifully-cut pieces
of white of egg, and pour over them the nearly cold liquid aspic jelly.
Arrange the quenelles on a bed of crisp salad, alternating the colours,
intersperse and garnish with small tufts of endive and chopped aspic
jelly, and serve cold.
Time. — ■ 2 or 3 hours. Average Cost, 3s. Sufficient for a dish of 12
quenelles.
RECIPES FOR COOKING BEEF
503
844. — BEEF, PICKLE FOR.
Ingredients. — 4 quarts of cold water, 1 lb. of common salt, 6 ozs. of
brown sugar, f of an oz. of saltpetre.
Method. — Boil the above ingredients together for 10 minutes, skim-
ming frequently. Strain into an earthenware vessel ; when cold,
put in the meat, and let it remain in the pickle for 10 days. If not
completely immersed, it must be turned every day.
845. — BEEF, PRESSED.
Ingredients.— Brisket of beef salted according to recipe 844, 1 onion,
1 carrot, } a turnip, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 10
peppercorns, glaze.
Method. — Wash the beef well in cold water, put it into a saucepan
with sufficient warm water to cover it, boil up, skim well, add the
prepared and sliced vegetables, bouquet-garni, and peppercorns,
and simmer gently until the bones can be easily removed. Take
the meat out of the saucepan, and having removed the bones, press
it between 2 boards or dishes until cold. Brush over with glaze before
serving.
846. — BEEF, DRY PICKLE FOR.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of common salt, 2 ozs. of brown sugar, |- of an oz.
of saltpetre, \ a teaspoonful of ground black pepper.
Method. — Pound the above ingredients in a mortar until reduced
to a fine powder. Rub them well into the meat, which must be turned
and rubbed every day for 7 or 8 days, or until it is sufficiently salt.
Note. — Before applying dry pickling or salting ingredients, it is as well
to rub the meat all over with common salt, and allow it to drain for 24 hours.
847. — BEEF, SPICED.
Ingredients. — 10 or 12 lb. of pickled beef ( see recipe No. 844),
1 dessertspoonful of black pepper, a teaspoonful of ginger, 1 salt-
spoonful of powdered cloves, 1 saltspoonful of grated nutmeg, \ a
saltspoonful of ground mace, 1 glass of claret or port -wine.
Method. — Drain the beef from the pickle, mix together the above
ingredients (except the wine), and sprinkle them over the entire surface
of the meat, which must then be rolled, bound, and skewered into
a good shape. Put the meat into an earthenware stewpot with a lid,
pour over it the wine, cover the top of the vessel with 2 or 3 thick-
nesses of greased paper, and put on the lid. As no other liquid than
the wine is added, it is absolutely necessary that the steam generated
should be kept within the vessel, and for this purpose the lid is frequently
covered with a paste of flour and water. The meat should be cooked
504
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
slowly in the oven for about 4 hours, and then pressed between
2 boards or dishes until cold.
848. — BEEF, SPICED. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 10 or 12 lb. of thin flank of beef, £ an oz. of saltpetre,
£ an oz. of bay-salt, £ of an oz. of black pepper, £ of an oz. of powdered
allspice, £ a teaspoonful ol ground ginger, £ of a teaspoonful of ground
cloves, £ of a teaspoonful of ground mace, 3 ozs. of common salt, 3 ozs.
of brown sugar.
Method. — Remove any bones, skin, and gristle, and rub the beef
well with the bay-salt and saltpetre, previously reduced to a powder
and mixed together. On the following day mix the pepper, allspice,
ginger, cloves and mace together, and rub them well into the meat.
Add the common salt and sugar to the brine in the vessel, turn and
baste the meat for a fortnight, then wash it in cold water, roll and
bind securely with string, and boil in the usual manner. The aitch-
bone, round, or any other part may be spiced instead of the flank,
and the time allowed lengthened or shortened to suit individual taste.
Baron of Beef. — The name given to two sirloins not cut asunder. It was a favourite dish with
our ancestors, and is still served at banquets of a special character.
849. — BEEF SAUSAGES. ( Fr . — Saucissons de Boeuf.)
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of lean beef, 1 lb. of beef suet, £ of a teaspoonful
of powdered allspice, salt and pepper, sausage-skins, frying-fat.
Method. — Chop both beef and suet as finely as possible, add the all-
spice, salt and pepper to taste, and mix well. Press the mixture lightly
into the prepared skins, prick well, and fry in hot fat until cooked and
well-browned. When sausage skins are not available, the mixture
may be shaped into small cakes, which should be floured before frying.
Time. — To fry, 10 to 15 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. 6d.
850. — BEEF, HUNG, TO PREPARE.
Ingredients. — To a piece of meat weighing from 12 to 16 lb. allow
£ a lb. of bay-salt, £ a lb. of coarse brown sugar, 1 oz. of saltpetre,
£ an oz. of allspice, £ an oz. of peppercorns.
Method. — The meat should be hung in a cool dry place as long as
is consistent with safety to make it tender, but it must not be allowed
to decompose in the least. Pound the above ingredients in a mortar
until reduced to a powder, and when the meat is ready, rub the entire
surface with the preparation, going carefully between the muscles
and under the flaps of the meat. Let it be turned every morning for
14 days ; at the end of that time roll it tightly in a cloth, and hang
it in a warm (not hot) dry place for 3 weeks. When a smoky flavour
is desired, the beef should be hung where it would receive the smoke.
RECIPES FOR COOKING BEEF 505
but not the heat, from a wood fire. Meat treated in this manner may
be kept for a long time.
The pickle, after being boiled and well skimmed, may be used again.
851. — BEEF, BOILED. (Fr. — Boeuf Bouilli.)
Ingredients. — Salt beef, turnips, carrots, onions, peppercorns, bouquet-
garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), suet dumplings, if liked.
Method. — The aitchbone, round, and brisket are all suitable for boi'-
ing. In boiling meat a certain proportion of the nutritive qualiti s
escape into the water, and the liquor should therefore be utilized for
soup, when it is not too salt for the purpose. With this end in view
the liquor should be reduced to the smallest possible quantity by using
a boiling-pot just large enough to contain the joint, with barely suffi-
cient water to cover it. The meat must be skew'ered, or bound with
tape into a compact form. The water in which it is immersed should
be warm unless the meat be very salt, then cold rvater is necessary
to extract some of the salt ( see Notes on Boiling Meat, p. 406). In
either case, it should be heated gradually to boiling point, and well
slammed. With a joint weighing from 10 to 14 lb., an allowance
should be made of 2 or 3 medium-sized onions, 2 large or 4 small carrots,
1 large or 2 small turnips, and 12 peppercorns. The onions should be
kept whole, the turnips cut in thick slices, and the carrots lengthwise
into 2 or 4 pieces. They should be added after the liquor has been
well skimmed. When suet dumplings form part of the dish, they
should be put into the liquor an hour before serving, the liquor
being previously brought to the boil. To serve, replace the tapes
and skewers with one or 2 silver skewers, pour some of the liquor
round the dish, and garnish with the vegetables.
Time. — From 20 to 30 minutes to each lb. ( see p. 490). Average
Cost, 8d. to iod. per lb. Seasonable in winter.
The Action of Salt on Meat. — Salt when applied to meat, extracts the juices in large quan-
tities. The salt, and watery juices form a saturated solution or brine, which is absorbed into the
tissues of the meat, and being strongly antiseptic preserves it from putrefaction. In addition to
its antiseptic action, salt contracts the fibres of the muscles, and excludes the air from the interior
of the meat. The astringent action of saltpetre, or nitre, is much greater than that of common salt,
and if used too freely renders the meat to which it is applied very hard. In small quantities it
intensifies the antiseptic action of salt, and preserves the colour of meat, which the action of salt
alone destroys. Salt and saltpetre preserve the fibre of meat from decay, but deprive it to a con-
siderable degree of the nutritive juices ; these antiseptics should, therefore, be used in moderation
Soyer’s Recipe for Preserving the Gravy in Salt Meat, when it is to be served
cold. Fill 2 tubs with cold water, into which throw a few pounds of
rough ice ; when the meat is done, put it into one of the tubs of ice-
water, let it remain 1 minute, then take it out, and put it into the other
tub. Fill the first tub again with water, and continue this process
for about 20 minutes ; then set it upon a dish, and let it remain until
quite cold. When cut, the fat will be as white as possible, and the
whole of the gravy will have been saved. If there is no ice, spring
water will answer the same purpose, but will require to be more fre-
quently changed.
506 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
852. — BEEF FILLETS, MIGNONS, NOISETTES,
TOURNEDOS and GRENADINES.
A fillet of beef is the undercut of a sirloin, and its weight varies from
7 lb. to 1 1 lb. Only a part of it can be cut into the small round pieces
known respectively as fillets, mignons, noisettes, tournedos and grena-
dines. As a rule mignons are cut rather thin and small, and tournedos
sometimes slightly oval, but otherwise the varieties enumerated are
identical except in name, and any directions given for dressing one
variety is applicable to all. In the Metropolis the usual charge for
fillet of beef is is. 2d. per lb. As nearly the whole of it can be
utilized, when sliced for grilling, it is almost as economical as many
lower-priced joints which contain a large amount of bone; but only a
part of it can be used for fillets, and they are therefore expensive.
The lean parts, which are too small to cut into fillets, maybe made into
a pie, pudding, sausages, or “ Filets de Bceuf Viennoise,” No. 882; it
would be a waste of material to put meat of such good quality into the
stock-pot. The fillets should always be cut across the grain of the meat,
they are usually from 2 inches to inches across, and \ an inch
to | of an inch in thickness.
853. — BEEF FRIZZLED.
Ingredients. — Slices of cold meat, fat of beef, cold potatoes, 1 finely
chopped onion, salt and pepper.
Method. — Cook some pieces of fat very slowly until as much liquid
fat as is required is obtained, then strain and return to the frying-pan.
Make quite hot, put in the meat, fry quickly until lightly browned
on both sides, then remove and keep hot. Put in the onion, fiy until
nicely-browned, then add the potatoes, and season carefully with salt
and pepper. Press them well down in the pan, fry until well browned,
then turn and fry the other side. Arrange on a hot dish, place the meat
on the top, and serve with a little gravy.
Time. — About 25 minutes.
854. — BEEF GOBBETS.
Ingredients. — \\ lb. of lean tender beef, 2 tablespoonfuls of rice, 1
small carrot shredded, \ a small turnip shredded, 1 strip of celery
shredded, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 6 peppercorns,
2 cloves, 1 blade of mace, sippets of hot buttered toast.
Method. — Cut the meat into small dice, put into a stewpan with
just sufficient hot water to cover, and simmer very gently for 40
minutes. Wash and drain the rice, and now add it, with the carrot,
turnip and celery, to the contents of the stewpan. Tie the bouquet-
garni, peppercorns, cloves and mace in muslin, place in the stewpan,
add boiling water to barely cover the whole, and salt to taste. Con-
507
RECIPES FOR COOKING BEEF
tinue to cook slowly for 40 minutes longer, adding more water if neces-
sary. Remove the muslin and its contents, and serve the gobbets
on the sippets of toast, which must be previously arranged on a hot
dish.
Time. — About 1 hour 20 minutes, to stew the beef. Average Cost,
is. 9d. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.
855. — BEEF GOBBETS. (Another Way.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of lean tender beef, i-£ ozs. of butter, 1 shallot
finely-chopped, \ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 1 dessert-
spoonful of mushroom ketchup, walnut liquor or some sharp sauce,
breadcrumbs, 4- of a teaspoonful of finely-grated lemon-rind, nutmeg,
salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the meat into small dice, and sprinkle rather liber-
ally with grated nutmeg, lemon-rind, salt and pepper. Heat
the butter in a stewpan, fry the meat until lightly browned, then
season and sprinkle over the shallot and parsley, and cook a few
minutes longer. Cover with gravy, stock or water, stew as gently as
possible for 1 hour and add the ketchup. Turn into a buttered bak-
ing-dish, cover with breadcrumbs highly seasoned with salt and pepper,
and add a few bits of butter. Bake in a moderate oven until nicely
browned, and serve in the dish with some suitable sauce.
Time. — About \\ hours. Average Cost, is. qd. Sufficient for 2 or 3
persons. Seasonable at any time.
856. — BRISKET OF BEEF. (Fr. — Poitrine de Bceuf
a la Flamande.)
Ingredients. — 6 lb. of brisket of beef, slices of bacon, 2 carrots,
1 onion, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leat), 2 cloves, 1 blade
of mace, {- of a teaspoonful of allspice, 10 peppercorns, salt and pepper,
1 pint of brown sauce, No. 233, stock or water.
Method. — Cover the bottom of a stewpan with slices of bacon, put in
the meat, lay slices of bacon on the top of it, and add the bouquet-
garni, cloves, mace, allspice, peppercorns and a tew vegetable trimmings.
Nearly cover with stock or water, cook very gently for 5 or 6 hours,
adding more stock or water to replace that which boils away, and taking
care to keep the stewpan closely covered. Make the brown sauce as
directed, using the stock from the stewpan when none other is available.
Cut the vegetable into dice, cook in stock or water until tender, and
add them to the sauce. The meat should be glazed, garnished with a
little vegetable, and served on a hot dish.
Time. — 5 or 6 hours. Average Cost, 4s. 6d. Seasonable at any time.
857- — BROWN STEW. (Fr. — Ragout brune.)
Ingredients. — 1} lb. of neck of beef, 1 1 ozs. of butter or fat, i-J- ozs. of
5o8
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
flour, i onion sliced, i carrot, \ a turnip, i pint of water, 2 tablespoon-
fuls of vinegar, salt, pepper.
Method. — Cut the meat into pieces convenient for serving, pour over
them the vinegar, let them remain for at least 1 hour, turning two or
three times, then drain and dry well. Cut some of the carrots into
julienne strips, and put aside until wanted. Heat the butter or fat in a
stewpan, fry the meat quickly until lightly-browned, then take it
out, and put in the onion and the remainder of the carrot and turnip.
Fry brown, then sprinkle in the flour, stir and cook until nicely-browned,
and add the water. Boil up, stirring meanwhile, simmer gently
for 15 minutes, then cool slightly and put in the meat. Season to
taste, and cook as slowly as possible for hours ( see “ Notes on Stew-
ing ”). Arrange the meat neatly on a hot dish, strain the sauce over,
and garnish with the shredded vegetables, which must be previously
cooked until tender in a little stock or water.
Time. — To stew, 2} hours. Average Cost, is. qd. Sufficient for 3 or
4 persons. Seasonable at any time.
858. — BUBBLE AND SQUEAK.
Ingredients. — Thin slices of cold roast or boiled beef, cold mashed
potatoes, cold greens of any kind, 1 onion shredded, butter or dripping,
salt and pepper, vinegar if liked.
Method. — Melt a little butter or fat in a frying-pan, put in the meat,
fry quickly until lightly-browned on both sides, then remove and keep
hot. Put in the onion, fry until brown, add the potatoes and greens,
and season to taste. Stir until thoroughly hot, then add a little vinegar,
if liked, and turn on to a hot dish. Place the slices of meat on the top,
and serve.
Time. — About 20 minutes.
859. — BEEF BRAISED. (Fr. — Boeuf Braise.)
Ingredients. — 4 to 6 lb. of fresh brisket of beef, 2 carrots, 1 turnip,
2 or 3 strips of celery, 1 or 2 leeks, i- a lb. of button onions, a bouquet-
garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leat), 12 peppercorns, salt, stock, a few
slices of bacon. For the sauce: i£ ozs. of butter, i-|- ozs. of flour, stock.
Method. — Turn about a £ of a pint each of carrot and turnip with a
large-sized, pea-shaped cutter, and put them and the button onions
aside. Slice the remainder of the carrot and turnip, the leeks and
the celery, and place them in a stewpan just large enough to contain
the meat. Lay the meat on the top of the vegetables, cover with slices
of bacon, add the bouquet-garni, peppercorns, a little salt, and stock
or water to nearly cover the vegetables. Put on a close-fitting lid,
and cook as gently as possible for 4 or 5 hours. Meanwhile heat the
butter in a smaller stewpan, add the flour, stir and cook slowly until
RECIPES FOR COOKING BEEF
509
well-browned, and then add the stock, using that from the larger
stewpan when none other is available. Stir until boiling, season to
taste, boil for at least 10 minutes, then strain and use. The carrot and
turnip dice and button onions must be cooked separately in well-
flavoured stock until tender, and they may be added to the sauce,
or arranged in groups round the dish on which the meat is served.
Time. — From 4 to 5 hours. Average Cost, 6s. Sufficient for 18 or
20 persons. Seasonable at any time.
860. — BEEF, MINCED.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of cold roast beef, i| ozs. of flour, 1 \ ozs. of butter,
1 onion coarsely-chopped, 1 small carrot, J of a small turnip, a bouquet-
garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 6 peppercorns.
Method. — Remove the bones, and the brown outside parts of the
meat, put them into a stewpan with the herbs, peppercorns and vege-
tables, cook them slowly for about 2 hours, then strain. Have ready
the brown roux (or thickening), made by frying together the flour and
butter until brown, add to it the hot stock, stir until it boils, then season
to taste, and boil gently for 20 minutes. Chop the meat finely, or
cut it into very small dice, put it into the sauce, cover closely, draw
the stewpan to the side of the stove, and let it remain for an hour,
in order that the flavour of the sauce may be imparted to the meat.
Before serving, the mince may be flavoured with mushroom ketchup,
walnut liquor, Harvey’s or other sauce, but these additions must be
determined by individual taste. The mince may be garnished with
fried potatoes or croutons or poached eggs ; if served as a luncheon
dish, it may be sent up in a border of mashed potato. For another
method of preparing the sauce, see “ Hashed Beef,” No. 826.
Time. — About 1 hour, after the stock is made. Average Cost, 3d.
exclusive of the meat. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
861. — BEEF, POTTED.
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of lean beef, 2 ozs. of butter, 1 tablespoonful of
water, a few drops of anchovy-essence, a good pinch each of powdered
allspice, cloves, and mace, salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the meat into small pieces, put it into a jar with
the water, sprinkle on the cloves, mace, allspice, and a little salt and
pepper. Cover with a close-fitting lid and 3 or 4 thicknesses of but-
tered paper, and place the jar either in a saucepan of boiling water,
or in the oven in a baking-tin containing boiling water, which must
be replaced as it reduces. Cook gently for about 3 hours, then pound
well in a mortar, adding the gravy the meat has yielded, and a few
drops of anchovy by degrees. Season to taste, rub through a fine
wire sieve, press into pots, and cover with clarified butter.
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
5io
Time. — To cook, about 3 hours. Average Cost, is. iod. Sufficient
for 4 or 5 small pots.
862. -BEEF, ROAST. (Fr.— Boeuf roti.)
Ingredients. — Beef, beef-dripping.
Method. — See notes on “ Roasting.” The joints usually roasted
are the sirloin, ribs, and aitchbones, and sometimes the round.
When cooking a large sirloin, it is a good plan to cut off the thin end,
and salt, cook, and press it like brisket of beef ( see p. 845). When
the joint to be roasted consists of 1 or 2 ribs of beef off a large animal,
it may be made compact and easier to carve by removing the bones,
and skewering or tying the meat into a round form. The usual ac-
companiments to roast beef are gravy and horseradish, or horseradish
sauce ( see No. 198).
863. — BEEF, ROLLED. (Fr — Boeuf Farci, Sauce
Piquante.)
Ingredients. — 5 lb. of fillet of beef, 2 glasses of port, an equal quantity
of vinegar, forcemeat, No. 396, \ a teaspoonful of pounded allspice,
piquante sauce, No. 265, red currant jelly.
Method. — Pour the wine and vinegar over the meat, let the prepara-
tion remain for 2 days, basting freqently meanwhile, and turning once
at least. Drain well, flatten slightly, cover with forcemeat, roll up
tightly, and bind with tape. Place the roll in a baking-dish, add the
allspice to the liquor in which the meat was marinaded, and pour the
whole into the baking-dish. Cook gently for about 1 hour, basting
frequently. Serve with piquante sauce and red currant jelly, or, if
preferred, substitute brown sauce or good gravy.
Time. — To cook, about 1 hour. Average Cost, fillet of beef from is. id.
to is. 2d. per lb. Sufficient for 12 or more persons. Seasonable at any
time.
864. — BULLOCK’S HEART, STUFFED AND BAKED
(Fr. — Coeur de Bceuf Farci.)
Ingredients. — A bullock’s heart, veal forcemeat ( see Forcemeats),
fat for basting, } a pint of good stock, red currant jelly.
Method. — Wash the heart in several waters, cut away any cartilage
or gristle there may be at the base, remove the lobes and the membrane,
separating the cavities inside the heart. Drain and dry the heart
thoroughly, make the forcemeat as directed, and put it inside the heart,
cover the base with a greased paper to keep in the forcemeat, and tie
round securely with tape or twine. Have ready in a deep baking tin
3 or 4 tablespoonfuls of hot fat, put in the heart, baste it well, and repeat
the basting frequently during the 3 hours it must be allowed to cook
RECIPES FOR COOKING BEEF
5ii
in a moderate oven. Half an hour before serving remove the paper, in
order that the base of the heart may brown. Have the stock ready
boiling, transfer the heart to a hot dish, and keep it as hot as possible.
Drain the fat from the tin, sprinkle in a little salt and pepper, pour
in the boiling stock, mix well with the sediment in the tin, bring to
the boil, and strain. Serve with red currant jelly, a little gravy poured
round the dish, and the remainder in a sauce-boat.
Time. — To cook, 3 hours. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. to 3s. Sufficient for
6 or 7 persons.
865. — BULLOCK’S HEART, BAKED. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — A bullock’s heart, onion stuffing ( see Forcemeats),
fat for basting, brown gravy or brown sauce, apple sauce.
Method. — Proceed as directed in the previous recipe, substituting
onion forcemeat for the herb farce.
Time. — About 3 hours. Average Cost, from is. pd. to 2s. Sufficient
for 6 or 7 persons.
866. — CANNELON OF BEEF. (Fr. — Cannelon de Boeuf).
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of cooked beef finely-chopped, a lb. of cooked or
raw ham or bacon finely-chopped, \ a teaspoonful of powdered mixed
herbs, \ of a teaspoonful of finely-grated lemon-rind, a pinch of grated
nutmeg, 1 large or 2 small eggs, salt and pepper, gravy.
Method. — Mix the beef, ham or bacon, herbs, lemon-rind, nutmeg,
and a good seasoning of salt and pepper well together, and moisten
with beaten egg. Form into a short thick roll, enfold in greased
paper, and bake in a moderate oven for nearly 1 hour. Remove the
paper, place the roll on a hot dish, and pour over and round a little
good gravy made from the bones and trimmings of the meat.
Time. — To bake, from 50 to 60 minutes. Average Cost, 8d., in addition
to the cold beef. Sufficient for 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
867. — CANNELONS OF BEEF. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of cooked beef finefy-chopped, f- of an oz. of
butter, \ an oz. of flour, a little gravy or stock, 1 teaspoonful of finely-
chopped parsley, \ a teaspoonful of powdered mixed herbs, salt and
pepper, puff paste, 1 egg, vermicelli, frying fat.
Method. — Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the flour, stir and cook,
for 3 or 4 minutes, put in a \ ©f a pint of stock, and stir until boiling.
Put in the meat, parsley, herbs, and a little salt and pepper, stir over the
fire and add as much gravy or stock as is necessary to moisten the whole,
but let the mixture be rather stiff. Spread on a plate until cold, then
form into cork-shaped pieces, and brush the ends over with beaten
egg. Roll the paste out very thinly, and cut it into 2^ inch squares.
Enclose a roll of meat in each piece of paste, coat with egg and crushed
512
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
vermicelli, and fry in a deep pan of hot fat. Drain well, and serve
garnished with crisply-fried parsley.
Time.- — To fry, about io minutes. Average Cost, sd. or 6d., in addition
to the meat. Sufficient — Allow 2 or 3 to each person. Seasonable at
any time.
868. — CHATEAU BRIAND STEAK. (^.—Chateau-
briand grille.)
Ingredients. — A double fillet steak, not less than 1} inches in thickness,
salad-oil or melted butter.
Method. — Beat the fillet a little, trim it, brush over with salad-oil
or warmed butter, sprinkle on a little pepper, and let it remain 1
hour before cooking. Grill over a clear fire, and serve with maitre
d’hotel butter and potato straws, or with gravy, demi-glace, tomato,
or other suitable sauce.
Time. — To cook 12 minutes. Average Cost, is. 2d. to is. 4d. per lb.
869. — CORNED BEEF. (Fr.—. Bceuf sale.)
Ingredients. — Pickled round of beef,
Method. — The beef may be bought ready pickled, or pickled and, if
liked, afterwards smoked according to directions given onpp. 503, 504.
Put it into a stewpan with sufficient warm water to cover it ( see “ Notes
on Boiling ”) boil up, and afterwards simmer very gently until done.
If required for immediate use, allow it to remain in the water until
cold, as this will improve the flavour and render the meat more juicy,
but it will not keep fresh quite so long.
Time. — To cook, 8 or 10 lb., about 3-J- hours. Average Cost, iod.
per lb.
870. — COW HEEL, BOILED.
Ingredients. — 1 cow-heel, 1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, 1 dessertspoon-
ful of finely-chopped parsley, salt and pepper.
Method. — Wash the heel, put it into a saucepan, cover with cold
water, and cook gently for 2 or 3 hours. Fry the flour and butter
together, but do not let them brown, strain on to them f of a pint of
the liquor in which the cow-heel is cooking, stir until boiling, simmer
for a few minutes, then add the parsley, and salt and pepper to taste.
When sufficiently cooked, remove the bones, arrange the pieces of
meat on a hot dish, and pour the sauce over.
Time. — About 3 hours. Average Cost, is. 3d. Sufficient for 4 per-
sons.
871. — COW HEEL, FRIED. (Fr. — Pied de Boeuf frit.)
Ingredients. — 1 cow-heel, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley,
RECIPES FOR COOKING BEEF
513
the grated rind of \ a lemon, 1 egg, breadcrumbs, 1 dessertspoonful
of flour, J of a teaspoonful of salt, £ of a teaspoonful of pepper, frying
fat.
Method. — Wash the cow-heel, and simmer it gently in stock or water
for about 3 hours, or until the bones can be easily separated from the
meat. Remove the bones, press the meat between 2 plates until cold,
then cut it into pieces i3 inches square. Mix the flour, salt and pepper
together on a plate; beat the egg, and add to it the parsley and lemon-
rind. Dip each piece of meat in the flour mixture, coat thickly with
egg, toss in breadcrumbs, and fry until nicely browned in a deep pan of
hot fat. Arrange neatly on a folded napkin or dish-paper, garnish
with fried parsley, and serve with piquante, tomato, or other suitable
sauce.
Time. — 3+ hours. Average Cost, is. 3d. to is. iod. Sufficient for 4
persons.
872. — CURRY OF COLD BEEF. (Fr.— Rechauffe de
Boeuf en Kari.)
Ingredients. — 1| lb. of cold roast beef, 1 pint of stock, 1^ ozs. of butter,
1 tablespoonful of flour, 1 tablespoonful of curry-powder, 1 teaspoonful
of curry-paste, 1 sour apple, 2 onions coarsely-chopped, 1 teaspoonful
of lemon-juice, salt, 4 ozs. of rice.
Method. — Put the bones and brown outside parts of the meat into
a saucepan, cover with cold water, and boil for at least 2 hours, then
strain and use. Cut the meat into slices about ^ an inch thick and
1 inch square. Melt the butter in a stewpan, fry the onions for
2 or 3 minutes, then add the curry-powder and flour, and fry gently
for 5 minutes. Add the stock, curry-paste, sliced apple, and salt to taste,
stir until the sauce boils, and simmer gently for \ an hour. Now put
in the meat, cover closely, draw the stewpan aside to prevent the
contents boiling, and let it remain an hour for the meat to become
impregnated with the flavour of the sauce. Arrange the meat in a
pyramidal form in the centre of a hot dish, season the sauce to taste,
add the lemon-juice, and strain over the meat. Serve the rice
separately.
Time. — 1£ hours. Average Cost, 6d. to 8d., exclusive of the meat.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
873. — EXETER STEW.
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of lean beef, i|- pints of water, i£ ozs. of dripping
i-z ozs. of flour, 2 or 3 onions, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, salt and
pepper. For the savoury balls : 4 ozs. of flour, i£ ozs. of finely-chopped
suet, 1 tablespoonful of finely-chopped parsley, \ a teaspoonful of
powdered mixed herbs, 1 teaspoonful of salt, J of a teaspoonful of
baking powder, \ a saltspoonful of pepper.
S
5i4
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Remove all the fat from the meat, cut the meat into 8 or
io pieces, put them into a stewing-jar with the vinegar, and place the
jar in a cool oven. Make the fat hot in a frying-pan, fry the sliced
onions and flour until brown, add the water, boil up, and pour it over
the meat in the jar. Season, cover closely, and cook gently either
in the oven or on the stove for 3 hours. Mix the ingredients for savoury
balls together, add water to bind these into a stiff mixture, and separ-
ate into 12 balls. About 40 minutes before serving, bring the stew
to boiling point ; drop in the balls, and simmer for 40 minutes. To
serve : pile the meat in the centre of a hot dish, strain the gravy over
and arrange the balls neatly round the base.
Time. — From 3J to 34 hours. Average Cost, about 2s. Sufficient
for 5 or 6 persons.
874. — FILLETS OF BEEF, SMALL, RICHMOND STYLE
(Fr. — Filets Mignons a la Richmont.)
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of fillet of beef, 2 ozs. of butter, 24 preserved
mushrooms, 2 truffles, salt and pepper, lemon-juice, Madeira sauce.
Method. — Cut the fillet into 6-7 slices of even size and thickness, trim
each neatly, and season with pepper and salt. Melt 1 oz. of butter
in a saute-pan ; when hot, put in the fillets and fry them on one side,
then turn them, and cover the fried side with finely-chopped mush-
rooms, seasoned with a little sauce and lemon-juice. Place the re-
mainder of the butter on top, and cover with a buttered paper. Put
the pan in the oven, and cook gently for another 10 minutes. Take
up the fillets and range them on a hot dish, place a slice of truffle on
the top of each, in the centre of the mushroom puree, pour enough
hot Madeira sauce round the base of the dish, and serve hot.
Average Cost, 4s. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Time. — 15 to 30
minutes.
875. — FILLETS OF BEEF, TRIANON STYLE.
(Fr. — Noisettes de Filets a la Trianon.)
Ingredients. — 2 to 2\ lb. of fillet of beef, J of a pint of sherry, 4 table
spoonfuls of sour cream, 2 ozs. of butter, fried croutons, meat glaze.
Method. — Cut the meat into small plump round fillets, put them on
a dish and sprinkle with salt and pepper, pour over them the sherry,
cover, and let them remain for 2 hours, turning them occasionally.
Drain the fillets, and dry them well in a cloth. Heat the butter in
a saute-pan, skim well, then put in the fillets and fry them quickly
and lightly, as they should be served rather underdone. Pour off
the butter, put into the saute-pan a gill of sherry used for marinading
the fillets, 3 tablespoonfuls of dissolved meat glaze, and reduce to about
1 the original quantity. Have ready the bread croutons corresponding
BEEF ENTREES,
19
1. Fillets of Beef (Parisienne). 2. Fillets of Beef (Pompadour).
3. Fillets of Beef (Viennoise).
S
RECIPES FOR COOKING BEEF
5i5
in size and number with the fillets, and fry them golden-brown either in
hot fat or the butter used for frying the fillets. Brush one side of
them over with meat glaze, place a fillet on each, and arrange neatly
on a hot dish, pour a little of the reduced sauce round the dish, add
the sour cream to the remainder, re-heat quickly, put a tablespoonful
on each fillet, and serve.
Average Cost, 5s. Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.
Time.— To marinade, 2 hours. To cook 10 minutes.
876. — FILLETS OF BEEF, A LA POMPADOUR.
(Fr. — Filets de Bceuf a, la Pompadour.)
Ingredients. — 1^ lb. of fillet of beef, \ of a pint of Espagnole sauce,
3 ozs. of butter, 2 tomatoes, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, 1 teaspoonful
of finely-chopped parsley, pepper and salt, cayenne.
Method. — Cut the beef into rather thick round fillets of equal size,
cut the same number of rounds of fat about 1 inch in diameter, also
an equal number of slices of tomato. Mix the parsley, lemon-juice,
cayenne, and \ the butter smoothly together, spread the preparation
on a plate, and put it aside to become very cold and firm. Cook the
rounds of fat, and warm the slices of tomato in the oven. Heat the
remainder of the butter in a saute-pan, and fry the fillets quickly,
browning them on both sides. Place a slice of tomato on each fillet,
and a round of fat on the tomato. Dish neatly on a bed of mashed
potato, either in a circle or in 2 rows, and just before serving place a
small pat of the maitre d’hotel butter on each fillet, and pour the
Espagnole sauce round the dish.
Time. — About 45 minutes to prepare and cook. Average Cost, 2s. 9d.
to 3s. Sufficient for 6 persons.
877. — FILLETS OF BEEF A LA GARIBALDI.
(Fr. — Filets de Boeuf a la Garibaldi.)
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of fillet of beef, 2 ozs. of beef marrow, thin slices
of ham or bacon, 1 oz. of butter, 1 egg, potato border, macaroni cro-
quettes, tomato or piquante sauce, nutmeg, salt and pepper, 2 large
truffles.
Method. — Cut the meat into round fillets 2 inches across and about
i °f an inch in thickness. Cut half as many slices of truffle, rounds of
ham or bacon, and thin rounds of marrow as there are fillets, and blanch
the marrow. Pound the lean trimmings of the meat, add the remainder
of the marrow, the yolk of the egg, a pinch of nutmeg, a seasoning of
salt and pepper, and pass the mixture through a wire sieve. Spread a
little of this farce on half the fillets, cover with a slice of marrow, add
a little more of the farce, then the truffle, again a little farce, and
lastly the rounds of ham or bacon. Spread a little farce on the remain-
5i6
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
ing fillets, lay them on the top ot the others, and press lightly together.
Cover the surface with a thin layer of farce, brush over with white of
egg, and sprinkle liberally with chopped truffle. Melt the butter in a
saute-pan, fry the fillets without turning for a few minutes, then cover
with a buttered paper, and finish cooking in the oven. Serve on a
border of mashed potato, strain the sauce over, and garnish with nicely-
prepared macaroni croquettes.
Time. — To cook, 1 5 to 20 minutes. Average Cost, 4s. 6d. Sufficient for
6 or 8 persons. Seasonable at any time.
878. — FILLETS OF BEEF A LA BEAUFFREMONT.
(Fr. — Filets de Bceuf a la Beauffremont.)
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of fillet of beef, ^ of a lb. of macaroni, 1 table-
spoonful of grated cheese, a few fine strips of truffle, x oz. of butter,
i oz. of meat glaze, stock, f of a pint of tomato sauce, No. 281, J of a
pint of Madere Sauce, No. 255, 1 egg, breadcrumbs, salt and pepper.
Method. — -Cut the fillet into rounds about \ an inch thick and 2 £
inches in diameter. Season them with salt and pepper, and coat them
with egg and breadcrumbs. Blanch the macaroni, drain it well, replace
in the stewpan, cover with well-flavoured stock, and boil until tender.
Drain and return to the stewpan, stir in the cheese and £ a pint of
tomato sauce, and keep hot until required. Add the Madere Sauce and
glaze to the remainder of the tomato sauce, and boil gently until
required. Heat the butter in a saute-pan, put in the fillets, and fry
quickly until done. Arrange the fillets in a close circle on a hot dish,
place the macaroni in the centre, garnished with shredded truffle,
and pour the sauce round.
Time. — To fry the fillets, 6 to 8 minutes. Average Cost, 4s. 6d. to 5s.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable at any time.
879. — FILLETS OF BEEF A LA GENOISE.
(Fr. — Filets de Boeuf a la Genoise.)
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of fillet of beef, 3 or 4 ozs. of marrow, \\ ozs. of
butter, meat-glaze, \ a pint of turned potatoes, a little finely-chopped
parsley, potato border, -§ of a pint of Genoise Sauce, salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the fillet into £-inch slices, which afterwards cut into
rounds about 2\ inches in diameter, and season them with salt and
pepper. Turn the potatoes with a large-sized, pea-shaped cutter,
parboil them, and afterwards fry in hot fat until nicely browned, or
finish cooking in the oven with a little butter. Cut the marrow into
rather thin rounds a fourth the size of the fillets, blanch and broil them,
and keep hot until required. Melt the butter in a saute-pan, fry the fillets
quickly until nicely browned on both sides, then brush them over with
meat-glaze. Arrange in a close row on a bed of mashed potato, place
RECIPES FOR COOKING BEEF 517
a round of marrow cn each fillet, strain (he Genoise Sauce over, garnish
with groups of potato, over which sprinkle the parsley, then serve.
Time. — To fry, 6 to 8 minutes. Average Cost, 4s. to 4s. 3d. Sufficient
for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
880. — FILLETS OF BEEF A LA ROSSINI.
(. Fr . — Filets de Boeuf a la Rossini.)
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of fillet of beef, i a lb. of chickens’ livers, 2 ozs. of
butter, 2 ozs. of foie gras, slices of truffle, 1 finely-chopped shallot,
1 tablespoonful of brown sauce, 1 tablespoonful of salad-oil, meat-
glaze, demi-glace sauce, No. 242, salt and pepper, fried croutes of
bread.
Method. — Cut the meat into rounds 2\ inches in diameter and 4 an
inch thick. Wash, dry and slice the liver. Melt 1 oz. of butter in a
saute-pan, fry the shallot slightly, add the liver, and toss over the fire
for a few minutes. Drain off the butter, pound the liver in a mortar
with the foie gras, the brown sauce, and a liberal seasoning of salt and
pepper until smooth, then pass through a wire sieve. Heat the remain-
ing oz. of butter and the salad-oil in the saute-pan, fry the fillets quickly
until browned on both sides, then take them up and cover one side of
them with the liver farce. Brush over with meat-glaze, place on the
prepared croutes. and make thoroughly hot in the oven. I.av a slice
of truffle on the top of each fillet, arrange them neatly on a hot dish,
pour the demi-glace sauce round, and serve.
Time. — To fry the fillets, 5 to 8 minutes. Average Cost, 5s. to 5s. 6d.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
881. — FILLETS OF BEEF, LARDED. (Fr.— Petits
Filets de BceuI Piques.)
Ingredients. — 2 or 2} lb. of fillet of beef, larding bacon, 3 ozs. of butter
£ of a pint of either Espagnole or demi-glace sauce, 24 button onions,
glaze.
Method. — Cut the meat into round, even-sized fillets about an inch
in thickness, and lard them on one side in close rows. Heat 2 ozs,
of butter in a saute-pan, put in the fillets, fry the under side for 5
minutes, then transfer the pan to a moderately hot oven, and cook
for 10 minutes longer, basting well during the time. In the meantime
melt the remaining oz. of butter in a small stewpan, and fry the onions
brown, and just before serving mix with them 2 tablespoonfuls of
either Espagnole or demi-glace sauce. Brush the fillets over with
glaze, arrange them in a circle on a border of mashed potato, serve
the onions in the centre, and pour round the sauce.
Time. — About 15 minutes. Average Cost, 4s. 6d. to 5s. Sufficient for 7
or 8 persons. Seasonable at any time.
518 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
882. — FILLETS OF BEEF, A LA VIENNOISE.
(Fr. — Filets de Bceuf, a la Viennoise.)
Ingredients.— x lb. of lean tender beef, 2\ ozs. of butter, J of a pint of
Espagnole sauce ( see Sauces), 1 whole egg, 1 white of egg, 2 onions,
\ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, \ a teaspoonful of powdered
mixed herbs, nutmeg, cayenne, salt, pepper and flour.
Method. — Pass the meat twice through the mincing machine, add
to it the herbs and parsley, season with salt, pepper, and a pinch of
cayenne, and mix with 1 egg. Divide the mixture into 8 pieces, shape
them into round fillets, and dredge them lightly with flour. Cut the
onion across into slices, remove and reserve 8 of the large outer rings,
and chop the remainder finely. Melt 1 oz. of butter in a stewpan,
fry the chopped onions lightly, then add a tablespoonful of Espagnole
sauce, season to taste, and simmer for 20 minutes. Melt the remaining
\\ ozs. of butter in a saute-pan, and fry the fillets. Dip the rings of
onion into flour, then into white of egg, again into flour, and fry in
deep fat until nicely browned. Dish the fillets with a little of the
stewed onion on the centre of each, garnish with the fried rings of
onions, and pour round the remainder of the Espagnole sauce.
Time. —About 1 hour. Average Cost, 2s. Sufficient for 6 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
883. — FILLET OF BEEF WITH TOMATOES.
(Fr. — Filet de Boeuf aux Tomates.)
Ingredients. — 3 lb. of fillet of beef, 6 or 8 small tomatoes, 2 ozs.
of butter, 1 tablespoonful of finely-chopped parsley, £ a teaspoonful
of powdered mixed herbs, 1 moderate-sized onion (sliced), 1 teaspoonful
of flour, | a pint of beef stock, salt and pepper.
Method. —Trim and bind or skewer the fillet into a good shape. Heat the
butter in a stewpan, put in the fillet, and fry it until the entire surface
is well browned, then add the onion, parsley, herbs, and \ a saltspoonful
of pepper, cover closely, and let the meat cook as slowly as possible
for 2 hours, basting frequently. Boil up the stock, mix the flour
smoothly with a little cold stock or water, pour on to it the hot stock,
return to the saucepan, simmer for 10 minutes, and \ an hour before
serving pour it into the stewpan containing the meat. The tomatoes
may be plainly baked or stuffed with either mushrooms or meat farce
( see stuffed tomatoes). When the meat is cooked, remove the strings
or skewers, place it on a hot dish, and garnish with the tomatoes.
To the gravy add seasoning to taste, deepen the colour by adding
a few drops of caramel browning, Lemco, or a piece of meat glaze, and
strain into a sauceboat.
Time. — 2\ hours. Average Cost, qs. 6J. Sufficient for 8 or 10
persons. Seasonable at any time.
RECIPES FOR COOKING BEEF
5i9
884. — FILLET OF BEEF, LARDED. (Fr.— Filet de
Boeuf Pique.)
Ingredients. — 3 lb. of fillet of beef cut in 1 piece, larding bacon,
\ a pint of stock, \ a pint of brown sauce, 2 ozs. of butter, 2 onions,
1 large carrot, 1 small turnip, 2 or 3 strips of celery, a bouquet-garni
(parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 10 peppercorns, glaze.
Method.— Skewer the fillet into a good shape, and lard it in close
rows with strips of bacon about 2 inches in length. Put the butter,
sliced vegetables, herbs, and peppercorns into a stewpan, place the
fillet on the top of them, and fry for an hour, then add stock
to nearly cover the vegetables, and replenish as it becomes reduced.
Cover the fillet with a buttered paper, put on the lid, and cook slowly
for about 2 hours, basting frequently. When cooked, brush over
with glaze, and put it into the oven for a few minutes for the bacon
to crisp. Strain the liquor from the stewpan, add to it the brown sauce,
boil up, and serve in a sauce-boat. Garnish with tomatoes, mush-
rooms, olives, or fancifully-cut turnip and carrot.
Time. — 2\ hours. Average Cost, 4s. 6d. to 5s. 6d. Sufficient, 3 lb.
for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable at any time.
885. — ROAST FILLET OF BEEF. (Fr.— Filet de
Boeuf roti.)
Ingredients. — 4 lb. of fillet of beef, -J- of a pint of beef gravy,
or demi-glace sauce, horseradish sauce. For the marinade : 3 table-
spoonfuls of salad-oil, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1 teaspoonful
of chopped onion, 1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley, \ a teaspoonful
of powdered mixed herbs, £ of a teaspoonful of pepper, a pinch of
ground cloves.
Method. — Tie the meat into a good shape, place it on a dish, pour over
the marinade, and let it remain in it for 3 hours, turning and basting
frequently. Have ready a sheet of stout, well-greased paper, drain
away half the liquid part of the marinade, fold the remainder and the
meat in the paper, and fasten the ends securely. Roast or bake for
ii hours, basting frequently with butter or dripping. Half an hour
before serving remove the paper, and when the meat is nicely browned
brush it over with meat glaze and place it on a hot dish. The demi-
glace sauce may be poured, round the dish or served separately, the
horseradish sauce being served in a sauce-boat.
Time.— 1 £ hours to cook. Average Cost, 6s. Sufficient, 4 lb. for 8
or 9 persons.
Memoranda. — The proper management of the fire is of first importance in roasting. To
insure a satisfactory result, it is essential to maintain a radiant fire during the operation. If the
article to be dressed is thin and delicate a small fire is sufficient, but if the joint *be large the fire
should fill the grate. Meat must never be put down in front of a fire which has become hollow or
exhausted. If, on the other hand, the heat of the fire become too fierce, the meat must be removed
to a considerable distance until the temperature has somewhat abated. Some cooks always fail in
520
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
their roasts, although they succeed in nearly everything else, owing to their disregard of the rule
which should govern roasting. A French chef declared that anybody can learn how to cook, but
that one must be born a “ roaster.” Beef or mutton are not sufficiently roasted until they have
acquired throughout the whole mass a temperature of 158° F., but poultry is well cooked when the
inner parts have attained a temperature of 130° to 140° F.
886. — FRICASSEE OF TRIPE. (Fr.— Fricassee de
Tripe.)
Ingredients. — i£ lb. of dressed tripe, 2 Spanish onions cut into dice,
\ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of flour,
salt and pepper, milk.
Method. — Wash and dry the tripe, cut it into pieces about 2\ inches
square, place them in a stewpan, and cover with equal parts of milk
and water. Add a little salt and pepper, and when boiling, put in the
onions and parsley, and simmer gently. Knead the butter and flour
smoothly together, and add it, in small pieces, to the contents of the
stewpan when they have cooked 1 hour. Stir until the flour becomes
smoothly mixed with the milk, continue cooking for about f- of an hour
longer, then season to taste, and serve.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, is. 5d. Sufficient for 3 or 4
persons. Seasonable at any time.
887. — HOT POT.
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of lean beef, 2 or 3 lb. of potatoes, \ lb. of onions,
salt and pepper.
Method. — Remove the fat from the meat, and cut it into 8 or 10
pieces, cut the onions into very thin slices, and divide each potato
across into 3 or 4 pieces. Put a layer of potato at the bottom of an
earthenware dish, then a layer of meat, add a few slices of onion, and
season well with salt and pepper. Continue until all the material
is used, potato forming the top layer. Fill the dish 3 parts full with
cold water, adding more later if the hot pot appears at all dry. Cover
with a greased paper, and bake slowly for 2 hours. Serve in the dish
in which it is cooked.
Time. — 2 hours to bake. Average Cost, is. lod. Sufficient for 7 or 8
persons.
888. — HUNTER’S BEEF. (Fr.— Boeuf a la Chasseur.)
Ingredients. — For a round of beef weighing about 24 lb., allow 3 ozs. of
saltpetre, 3 ozs. of coarse sugar, 1 oz. of cloves, 1 grated nutmeg, \
an oz. of allspice, 1 lb. of salt, a lb. of bay-salt.
Method. — Let the beef hang for 2 or 3 days, and remove the bone.
Pound the spices, salt, etc., in the above proportions, and let them be
reduced to the finest powder. Put the beef into an earthenware pan,
rub all the ingredients well into it, and turn and rub it everyday for
RECIPES FOR COOKING BEEF
52i
a little over a iortnight. When it has been sufficiently long in pickle,
wash the meat, bind it up securely with string, and place it in a pan
with -} a pint of water at the bottom. Mince some suet, cover the
top of the meat with it, and over the pan put a common crust of
flour and water ; bake for 6 hours, and when cold, remove the paste.
The gravy that flows from it should be saved, as it adds greatly to the
flavour of hashes, stews, etc. The beef may be glazed and garnished
with aspic jelly.
Time. — 6 hours. Average Cost, from 16s. 6d. to 17s. 6d. Seasonable
all the year.
Note. — In salting or pickling beef or pork for family consumption, when
it is not to be kept for a great length of time, a smaller quantity of salt,
and a larger quantity of other matters more adapted to retain mellowness
in meat, may be employed. Sugar, which is well known to possess antiseptic
principles in a very great degree, without the pungency and astringency
of salt, is, very generally used in the preserving of meat for family consumption.
Although it acts without hardening or contracting the fibres of meat, as is
the case with salt, and, therefore, does not impair its mellowness, yet its
use in sufficient quantities for preserving effect without the addition of
other antiseptics, would impart a flavour not agreeable to the taste of many
persons. It may be used, however, with salt, in a proportion of 1 part by
weight to 4, to impart mildness and mellowness to cured meat.
889. — KIDNEY, STEWED. (Fr.— Ragout de Rognon.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of ox kidney, 1 pint of water, 1 oz. of beef dripping,
1 oz. of butter, ozs. of flour, 1 finely-chopped small onion, salt and
pepper, flour.
Method. — Cut the kidney into slices about £ inch thick, and remove
the core. Make the dripping hot in a stewpan, season a table-
spoonful of flour with \ a teaspoonful of salt, and a \ of a teaspoonfui
of pepper, dip the slices of kidney in the mixture, and fry them in the
hot fat until browned on both sides, and at the same time fry the onion.
Drain away the fat, add 1 pint of nea.rly boiling stock or water, a little
salt and pepper, cover closely, and simmer very slowly for 1 hour.
Knead the butter and flour smoothly together, add it in small portions
to the contents of the stewpan, cook for 20 minutes longer, or until
the kidney is perfectly tender. Arrange the slices of kidney neatly
on a hot dish, season the sauce to taste, and strain it over. When
intended for luncheon the kidney may be served within a border of
mashed potato, and the dish garnished with small cooked tomatoes.
For breakfast it may be varied by the addition of small rolls of fried
bacon, poached eggs, or sippets of either toasted or fried bread.
Time. — About i£ hours. Average Cost, is. 2d. Sufficient for about
4 persons.
890 — KIDNEY, FRIED. (Rognon frit de Boeuf.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of ox kidney, 2 ozs. of butter, 1 teaspoonful of
522 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
finely-chopped parsley, i teaspoonful of lemon-juice, salt, cayenne,
flour.
Method. — Cut the kidney into slices about \ of an inch thick, and
remove the core. Make the butter hot in a saute-pan, mix i
tablespoonful of flour, \ a teaspoonful of salt, and J of a teaspoonful
of pepper together on a plate, dip the slices of kidney in the mixture,
and fry them gently in the butter for about 20 minutes, turning them
2 or 3 times, and keeping the saute-pan covered. Have ready a very hot
dish, arrange the kidney neatly in 2 rows ; add the lemon-juice, parsley
and a pinch of cayenne to the butter in the saute-pan, and pour over
the kidney. Serve as hot as possible.
Time. — From 30 to 35 minutes, to prepare and cook. Average Cost,
is. 3d. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
891. — KIDNEY WITH ITALIAN SAUCE.
(Fr. — Rognon de Boeuf a l’ltalienne.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of ox-kidney, 1 pint of water, 2 ozs. of beef
dripping, ozs. of butter, i-\ ozs. of flour, 6 preserved mushrooms,
1 finely-chopped small onion, a glass of sherry, salt and pepper.
Method.— -Cut the kidney into slices nearly \ an inch thick, and re-
move the core. Make the dripping moderately hot in a saute-pan,
season 1 tablespoonful of flour with \ a teaspoonful of salt, and
a | of a teaspoonful of pepper, dip the slices of kidney in the mixture
and fry them for about 20 minutes very slowly in the moderately
hot fat; fry the onion at the same time, and keep the saute-pan covered.
In another pan fry the butter and flour together until a nut-brown
roux, or thickening, is formed, then add the stock or water, stir until
it boils, and simmer for at least 20 minutes. Remove the slices of
kidney, and drain carefully from fat ; add them, together with the
sliced mushrooms and sherry, to the sauce, and, when hot, season to
taste, and serve.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, is. 6d. Sufficient for 4 or 5
persons.
892. — LEG OF BEEF STEW.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of leg or shin of beef, f of a pint of water, 2 table-
spoonfuls of vinegar, 1 onion, 1 carrot, a turnip, a bouquet-garni
(parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), pepper and salt.
Method. — Cut the meat into 5 or 6 pieces, put them in a dish, pour
the vinegar over, and let them remain at least 1 hour, turning
them 2 or 3 times. When ready, put the pieces with the vinegar into
a jar with a close-fitting lid, add a good seasoning of salt and pepper,,
the herbs, and the vegetables cut into thick slices. Put on the lid,,
cover with 2 or 3 thicknesses of greased paper, stand the jar either in
a cool oven or in a saucepan of boiling water, and simmer slowly for 3;
RECIPES FOR COOKING BEEF 523
hours. When done, remove the bouquet-garni, and serve the stew
in a hot dish with its gravy.
Time. — 3 hours to stew. Average Cost, 9d. or iod. Sufficient for 3 or 4
persons.
893. — LIVER AND BACON. (Fr.— Foie de Boeuf a
l’Anglaise.)
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of liver, -} lb. of bacon, 1 tablespoonful of flour,
salt and pepper.
Method. — Rinse the liver in cold water, put it into a basin, cover
with boiling water, let it remain immersed for about 15 minutes,
then drain, dry, and cut it into slices about £ of an inch in thickness.
Also cut the bacon into very thin slices. Add a good seasoning of salt
and pepper to the tablespoonful of flour, and dip the liver in the mix-
ture. Heat the frying-pan, put in the bacon, fry slowly, remove to a
hot dish, and keep hot until wanted. Fry the liver in the bacon fat
until nicely browned on both sides, then remove and keep hot. Sprinkle
the flour on the bottom of the pan, stir and fry until brown, add about
\ a pint of warm water, stir until boiling, and season to taste. Arrange
the pieces of liver in a close circle, strain the sauce over, place the
slices of bacon on the top, and serve.
Time. — 35 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, is. iod. Sufficient for
6 persons.
894. — LIVER, SAVOURY. (Fr.— Foie de Boeuf a, la
Frangaise.)
Ingredients. — 1^ lb. of liver, as many thin slices of bacon as there
are slices of liver, veal-forcemeat ( see Forcemeats), 1 tablespoonful
of flour, salt and pepper.
Method. — Prepare and slice ' the liver as directed in the preceding
recipe. Spread each slice with a thin layer of forcemeat, and cover
with bacon. Lay them on the bottom of a large baking-tin, surround
to about \ the depth of the liver with boiling water, cover with a
buttered paper, and bake slowly for about \ an hour. Arrange the
liver in a close circle on a hot dish, and keep it hot. Mix the flour
smoothly with a little cold water, add of a pint of boiling water,
pour into the tin, boil up, season, and strain round the liver.
Time. — \ an hour. Average Cost, is. 8d. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Marrow Bones.— Bone is composed of a close, hard material, and a softer reticulated substance
called spongy or cancellous tissue. All bone is more or less porous, the difference between the hard
and the spongy portions being one of degree only, as may be seen when it is viewed under the lens of a
microscope. The surface of bones is the densest portion, the inner parts are more cellular, and are
filled with a fatty tissue, called medulla, or marrow, the vascular connective tissue interspersed with
fat-cells, which support the fine blood vessels forming the centre of nourishment for the inner surface
of the bones. The rigidity of bones is due chiefly to the presence of phosphate of lime, and carbonate
of lime, which constitute about two-thirds of the substance of bone. The remaining one-third con-
sists of animal matter, chiefly gelatine. Hollow cylindrical bones possess the qualities of strength
and lightness in a remarkable degree, thus adapting them for their special function in animal life.
Bones also possess a certain degree of elasticity as, for example, those of the ribs.
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
524
895. — MARROW BONES.
Ingredients. — -Marrow bones, flour, dry toast.
Method. — Saw the bones into short lengths, cover the ends with a
paste made of flour and water, tie them in a floured cloth, and boil from
if- to 2 hours. Remove the cloth and crust, set the bones upright on
a dish covered with a hot napkin, and serve with dry toast.
Time. — To boil, if to 2 hours. Average Cost, 9d. to is.
896. — MARROW TOAST.
Ingredients. — Marrow bones, flour, salt and pepper, dry toast.
Method. — Prepare the bones as directed in the preceding recipe,
and, when cooked, scoop out the marrow. Season to taste, spread on
hot toast, and serve as hot as possible.
Time. — To boil, if to 2 hours. Average Cost, qd. to is.
897. — MIGNONS OF BEEF, PARMENTIER STYLE.
(Fr. — Mignon de Boeuf a la Parmentier.)
Ingredients. — 3 lb. of fillet of beef, butter for frying, crisply-fried
potato straws, gravy or sauce.
Method. — Cut the fillet into rather thick neat round fillets, and season
them with salt and pepper. Peel the potatoes and cut them into dice
shapes, then fry and drain them well, sprinkle with a little salt and
pepper, and keep them hot. Heat about 1 oz. of butter in a saute-pan,
fry the mignons quickly, turning them 2 or 3 times during the process,
and drain. Arrange them in a close row down the centre of a hot dish,
pile the potato straws lightly on either side of the mignons, and serve
with a little good gravy or sauce.
Time. — To fry, 6 or 7 minutes. Average Cost, 4s. to 4s. 6d. Sufficient
for 8 or 9 persons. Seasonable at any time.
898. — MIGNONS OF BEEF, MILANAISE STYLE.
( Fr . — Mignons de Boeuf a la Milanaise.)
Ingredients.— 3 lb. of fillet of beef, butter for frying, \ a pint of brown
sauce, No. 233, 4 ozs. of macaroni, boiled and cut into ^-inch lengths,
1 tablespoonful of shredded ham or tongue, 1 shallot finely-chopped,
C a clove of garlic bruised, \ a tablespconful of shredded champignons,
1 dessertspoonful of Parmesan cheese, salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the meat into small round fillets, and trim them neatly.
Heat a little butter in a saute-pan, fry the mignons quickly for 6 minutes,
turning them once, and keep them hot. Drain away any excess of
butter there may be, put in the ham or tongue, shallot, garlic, cham-
pignons, and a little salt and pepper, toss over the fire for a few minutes,
then add the brown sauce. Stir until boiling, add the macaroni,
simmer gently for 10 minutes, then stir in the cheese. Meanwhile
RECIPES FOR COOKING BEEF
525
place the mignons separately in small casseroles, cover with sauce,
put on the lids, and cook gently on the stove or in a moderate oven tor
about 20 minutes. Serve in the casseroles.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 4s. 6d. to 5s. Sufficient for
8 to 9 persons. Seasonable at any time.
899. — MIGNONS OF BEEF, BOURGEOISE STYLE.
(Fr. — Mignons de Bceuf a la Bourgeoise.)
Ingredients. — 3 lb. of fillet of beef, % of a pint of brown sauce, 2 table-
spoonfuls of tomato puree, 36 very small button onions, an equal
quantity of turned carrot and turnip, butter for frying, stock, salt and
pepper.
Method. — Turn the carrot and turnip with a large-sized, pea-shaped
cutter, and cook them and the onions separately in strong stock until
about half done. Have the brown sauce ready in a stewpan, add the
tomato puree, boil up, season to taste, and pass through a tammy-
cloth or fine strainer. Fry the mignons for 6 minutes in hot butter,
place them in one large casserole or separately in small ones. Cover
with vegetables, add the sauce, and cook gently on the stove or in the
oven for about 20 minutes. When casseroles are not available, drain
the butter from the mignons when cooked, add the sauce and vege-
tables, cover the saute-pan, and finish cooking on the stove or in the
oven. In the latter case, the mignons must be neatly arranged on a
dish, the sauce strained over them, and the vegetables placed in groups
round the base.
Time. — To cook the fillets, about 25 minutes. Average Cost, 5s.
Sufficient for 8 persons. Seasonable at any time.
900. — MINCED COLLOPS.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of rump steak, if ozs. of butter, 1 small onion or
2 shallots finely-chopped, a bouquet-garni (parsley, Ihyme, bay-leaf),
1 tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup or walnut liquor (lemon-juice or
vinegar may be substituted), 1 tablespoonful of flour, £ of a pint of
stock or water, salt and pepper, toast.
Method. — Mince the meat very finely by hand. Heat the butter in a
saute-pan or frying-pan, fry the onion until lightly browned, then
add the flour and fry a little ; next put in the meat, and stir over
the fire for a few minutes. Add the stock or water, bouquet-garni,
and mushroom-ketchup, and season to taste with salt and pepper.
Cook very slowly for 15 minutes, then serve garnished with sippets
of toasted bread.
Time. — To cook, altogether about 25 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d.
Sufficient for about 3 persons. Seasonable at any time.
526 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
901. — MINIATURE ROUND OF BEEF.
Ingredients. — 1 large rib of beef, peppercorns. For the brine: 1 gallon
of soft water, 3 lb. of coarse salt, 6 ozs. of brown sugar, \ an oz. of salt-
petre. For garnish: carrots, turnips, onions.
Method. — Boil the water, salt, sugar and saltpetre together for \ an
hour, skimming when necessary, and put the mixture aside until cold.
Bone the meat, rub it well with salt, roll up lightly, and bind with
string. Place it in the brine when cold, let it remain for 6 days, turning
it daily, then drain well. Have ready a stewpan of water nearly
boiling, put in the meat with 12 peppercorns, bring to the boil, cook
rapidly for 15 minutes, and afterwards simmer gently until done ( see
“ Notes on Boiling,” p. 430). Cut the vegetable into dice, and add
trimmings of the same to the contents of the stewpan. Serve garnished
with dice of vegetables, which should be boiled separately.
Time. — From to 3 hours. Average Cost, 9d. to iod. per lb.
Seasonable at any time.
902. — MIROTON OF BEEF. ( Fr . — Miroton de Boeuf.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of cold roast beef cut into thin slices, 1 pint of
good brown sauce ( see Hashed Beef, No. 826, 2 Spanish onions, 1
teaspoonful of vinegar, ifr ozs. of butter, a bouquet-garni (parsley,
thyme, bay-leaf), salt and pepper, browned breadcrumbs.
Method. — Make the brown sauce from the bones and trimmings
of the meat. Chop the onions coarsely, and fry them together with
the bouquet-garni in the hot butter until nicely browned, then add
the brown sauce, and vinegar, and season to taste. Simmer gently for
an hour, stirring and skimming occasionally, then pass the sauce
through a tammy-cloth or fine hair sieve. Cover the bottom of the
dish in which the miroton is to be served with brown sauce, on the top
place the slices of meat in neat layers, cover with sauce, and sprinkle with
the browned breadcrumbs. Stand the dish in a baking-tin containing
boiling water, and put it in a moderate oven for about 1 5 minutes.
The miroton may be garnished with croutons of fried bread, or groups
of cooked sprays of cauliflower, peas, haricots verts, or julienne strips
of turnip and carrot.
Time. — About 1 hour, after the brown sauce is made. Average Cost,
6d., exclusive of the meat. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
903. — MOULDED MINCEMEAT. ( See Beef Cake.)
904. NOISETTES OF BEEF WITH PARSLEY
BUTTER. (Fr. Noisettes de Boeuf a la
Maitre d‘Hotel. )
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of fillet of beef, salad-oil or oiled butter, 1 oz. of
RECIPES FOR COOKING BEEF
527
fresh butter, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 1 teaspoonful of
lemon-juice, cayenne, salt and pepper, fried potato ribbons.
Method. — Knead the butter, parsley, lemon-juice, and a little cayenne
well together, form into a flat cake, and keep on ice until firm. Cut
the meat into round fillets, trim neatly, brush over with salad-oil or
oiled butter, and grill over a clear fire. Turn them two or three times
during the process, and each time brush the fillets over with oil, and
sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper. Place them in a nearly upright
position down the centre of a hot dish, put a small pat of the prepared
butter on the top of each fillet, garnish with crisply-fried potato rib-
bons, and serve very hot.
Time. — To grill, 8 to 10 minutes. Average Cost, 3s. 3d. Sufficient
for about 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable at any time.
905. — NOISETTES OF BEEF WITH MUSHROOMS.
( Fr . — Noisettes de Boeuf aux Champignons.)
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of fillet of beef, 2 fresh mushrooms, 1 finely-
chopped shallot, % a teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 2 ozs. of
butter, -J- of a pint of brown sauce (No. 250), salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the meat into fillets of even size, not less than an
inch in thickness, and as round as possible, chop the mushrooms finely,
add to them the shallot, parsley, and a little salt and pepper, and mix
well together. Place a little of the mixture, in the form of a round
pat, in the centre of each fillet. Heat the butter in a saute-pan, put
in the fillets the farced side down, fry quickly, then turn and fry
the other side rather more slowly. To serve, arrange the noisettes in
2 rows on a bed of mashed potato (spinach may be used instead), and
pour the hot sauce round.
Time. — About 10 minutes. Average Cost, 4s. Sufficient for 6 or 7
persons.
906. — OX-CHEEK, STEWED. (Fr — lete de Boeuf en
ragout.)
Ingredients. — 1 ox-cheek, 2 ozs. of butter, 2 ozs. of flour, 2 onions
2 small carrots, 1 turnip, 2 strips of celery, a bouquet-garni (parsley
thyme, bay-leaf), 12 peppercorns, 2 cloves, a glass of sherry, if liked
1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, salt and pepper.
Method. — Wash the cheek in several waters, remove the splintered
bones, if any, and soak for at least 12 hours in salt and water, changing
the water 2 or 3 limes. When sufficiently soaked, wash it well in
warm water, put into a boiling-pot, cover with cold water, bring to
the boil, and skim well. Now add the vegetables cut into thick slices,
peppercorns, cloves, bouquet-garni, and a heaped teaspoonful of salt,
and cook slowly for about 4 hours, or until the bones may be easily
528
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
removed. Have ready the brown roux (or thickening), made by frying
the butter and flour together until they acquire a nut-brown colour,
strain on to it rather more than i pint of liquor from the boiling pan,
stir until it boils, and simmer for at least io minutes. In the meantime
bone the cheek, and cut it into pieces convenient for serving. Add the
sherry and lemon-juice to the sauce, season to taste, put in the slices
of cheek, and, when hot, serve. The dish may be garnished with dice
or julienne strips of turnip and carrot cooked separately. The liquor
in which the cheek has been cooked makes excellent soup.
Time. — To cook, 4} to 5 hours. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for
7 or 8 persons.
907. — OX-CHEEK MOULD. (Fr.—Tete de Boeuf en
gelee.)
Ingredients. — Cooked ox-cheek. To 1 lb. allow J of a lb. of cooked
tongue, ham or bacon, 3 hard-boiled eggs, 1 teaspoonful of finely-
chopped parsley, the grated rind of \ a lemon, j- of a teaspoonful of
powdered mixed herbs, \ a pint of liquor in which the cheek was cooked,
3 or 4 sheets of gelatine, salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the cheek and tongue or ham into small pieces, cut
the eggs into slices or sections, and arrange some of them in a pattern
on the bottom, and round the sides of a plain mould or basin. Mix the
parsley, lemon-rind, herbs, salt and pepper together. Cover the bottom
of the decorated mould with a thick layer of ox-cheek, on the top of
it place a thin layer of bacon, add a few slices of egg, and sprinkle
well with the flavouring mixture. Repeat until the mould is full,
pour in a little warm stock in which the gelatine has previously been
dissolved, cover with a greased paper, stand in a tin containing water,
and bake for ij hours in a moderate oven. Pour in the remainder
of the stock, and when cold turn cut and garnish with parsley.
Time. — To cook, from 1 to i|- hours. Average Cost, 8d., exclusive
of the ox-cheek.
908. — OX-CHEEK, STUFFED. (Fr.— Tete de bceuf
farci.)
Ingredients. — 1 ox-cheek, veal forcemeat ( see Forcemeats), 2 ozs. of
butter, 2 ozs. of flour, 2 onions, 2 small carrots, 1 turnip, 2 strips of
celery, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 12 peppercorns,
2 cloves, salt and pepper, 1 egg, browned breadcrumbs.
Method. — Prepare and cook the cheek as directed in recipe for “ Ox
Cheek, Stewed.” As soon as the bones can be easily separated from
the meat, take the cheek out of the boiling-pot, remove the bones,
flatten the cheek on the table, season it well with salt and pepper,
spread on the forcemeat, roll up tightly and bind securely with string
RECIPES FOR COOKING BEEF
529
Coat the rolled cheek thickly with egg and browned bread crumbs, and
bake in a moderate oven for 1^ hours, basting frequently with hot fat.
Fry the butter and flour together until a brown roux (or thickening)
is formed, strain on to it 1 pint of liquor from the boiling pot, stir until
boiling, simmer for about \ an hour, then season to taste, and when
ready to serve strain it into a sauce-boat. If liked, the dish may be
garnished with small rolls of fried bacon and slices of lemon.
Time. — From 4 to hours. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. to 3s. Sufficient
for 7 or 8 persons.
909. — OX LIVER ROASTED. (Fr. — Foie de Boeuf.)
Ingredients . — 2 lb. of liver, J of a lb. of fat bacon, salt and pepper,
flour.
Method. — Wash and dry the liver, place it in a deep baking-dish,
surround it to \ its depth with hot water, and cover with slices of bacon.
Bake gently for hours, basting well, and dredging frequently with
flour highly seasoned with salt and pepper, during the process. (The
bacon may be cut into dice and served as a garnish, in which case it
must be kept covered with two or three thicknesses of greased paper
while cooking, otherwise it will become too crisp.)
Time. — 1£ hours. Average Cost, is. 2d. to is. qd. Sufficient for
5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
910. — OX PALATES, STEWED. (Fr.— Palais de
Boeuf.)
Ingredients. — 4 ox-palates, i£ pints of stock, i£ ozs. of butter, i£ ozs.
of flour, 1 onion, 1 small carrot, £ a small turnip, a bouquet-garni
(parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 6 peppercorns, salt.
Method. — Soak the palates for several hours in salt and water, and
press them frequently with the fingers to draw out the mucus. Wash
well in 2 or 3 waters, then put the palates into a stewpan with cold
water to completely cover them, heat gradually, and, before the water
boils, drain, and scrape off the rough skin which covers one side, leaving
them white and clear. If the water is allowed to boil this skin is re-
moved with great difficulty. Replace the palates in the stewpan,
add the stock, herbs, peppercorns, sliced vegetables, and salt, and simmer
gently for 4 hours. Press between 2 dishes until cold, then cut into
2-inch squares. Fry the butter and flour in a stewpan until a brown
roux is formed, strain on to it the stock in which the palates were
cooked (if reduced to less than £ of a pint, add more to make up this
quantity), put in the pieces of palate, and when hot serve, garnished
with fancifully-cut vegetables.
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HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Time. — 20 minutes after the palates are cooked. Average Cost, 2S.
Note. — The palates, after being either braised or stewed until tender,
and pressed until cold, may be marinaded (soused in brine), and, after being
drained, dipped in butter coated with egg and breadcrumbs and fried, cut into
rounds, re-heated, glazed, and dished alternately with slices of cooked
tomato, or stuffed with meat farce, and dressed as olives.
91 1. — OX-TAIL BROILED. ( Fr . — Queux de Boeuf
grilles.)
Ingredients. — 2 tails, i\ pints of stock, 1 egg, breadcrumbs, salt and
pepper, piquante sauce or good gravy, oiled butter or salad oil.
Method. — Wash and dry the tails, and 'divide them at the joints.
Put them into a stewpan with the stock, which should be highly-
flavoured, otherwise vegetables and herbs must be added. Simmer
gently for 2\ hours, then drain and put aside until cold. When ready,
coat carefully with egg and breadcrumbs, dip into oiled butter or salad-
oil, and broil over a clear fire. Serve with sauce or gravy. Cold
remains may be utilized in this manner.
Time. — To stew, 2\ hours; to broil, 10 minutes. Average Cost, is. 8d.
to 2S. 6d. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable at any time.
912. — OX-TAIL, STEWED. (Fr.— Queux de Boeuf.)
Ingredients. — 1 ox-tail, 2 ozs. of butter, i-|- ozs. of flour, 1 pint of stock
or water, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 2 cloves, 1 blade
of mace, 1 sliced onion, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, salt and pepper.
Method. — Wash the tail, cut it into pieces about ij inches long, and
divide the thick parts in half. Make the butter hot in a stewpan, dry
the pieces of tail thoroughly, and fry them brown in the butter. Take
them out of the stewpan, put in the sliced onion and flour, fry until
well browned, then add the stock, bouquet-garni, cloves, mace, salt
and pepper, and stir until boiling. Replace the pieces of tail, cover
closely, and simmer gently for 2-J- to 3 hours. Arrange the pieces
of tail on a hot dish, season the sauce to taste, add the lemon-juice,
and strain over them. Garnish with croutons of fried bread, or groups
of cooked turnip and carrot, cut either into dice or julienne strips.
Time. — From 2J to 3 hours. Average Cost, 2s. to 2s. 9d. Sufficient for
5 or 6 persons.
The Tails of Animals. — The vertebral column, or backbone of the Mammalia, presents only slight
modifications, and everywhere shows the same characteristics as in man, who stands at the head of
this division of the animal kingdom. The length of this column, however, varies much, and the num-
ber of vertebrae of which it is composed is far from being uniform. These numerical differences prin-
cipally depend on the unequal development of the caudal appendage, or tail-end, of the column.
Thus, the tail-forming vertebrae sometimes do not exist at all — amongst certain bats, for example,
in other examples forty, fifty, and even sixty of these bones may be reckoned. Among the greater
number of mammals, the tail is of little use for locomotion, except that in many cases it performs the
function of a rudder, steadying the animal in his rapid movements, and enabling him to turn more
easily and quickly. Among some animals it is a v ry powerful aid to progression, as in the
case of the kangaroos and jerboas, the tail forming, with the hind feet, a kind of tripod from which
the animal makes its spring. With most of the American monkeys, the tail is prehensile, and serves
the animal as a fifth hand to suspend itself from the branches of trees ; and lastly, among the whales,
it grows to an enormous size, and becomes the principal agent for swimming.
RECIPES FOR COOKING BEEF
53i
913. — PICKLED ROUND FOR HANGING.
(Fr. — Boeuf Marine.)
Ingredients. — 14 or 16 lb. of round of beef. For the brine 1 lb. of
coarse salt, \ a lb. of coarse brown sugar, \ an oz. of saltpetre.
Method. — Mix the salt, sugar and saltpetre together, and rub the
mixture well into the meat. Keep it in an earthenware pan, turn twice
a week for 3 weeks, then drain and bind into shape with strong tape.
The meat may be at once cooked, or, if preferred, it may be hung in a
kitchen, in which a fire is constantly kept, lor 3 weeks. Pork, hams and
bacon may be similarly treated, but will require double the quantity
of brine, and after being hung for 3 weeks they should be either smoke-
dried or placed in tubs filled with dry oat-rusks.
Time. — 3 weeks in the brine, 3 weeks hung. Average Cost, 8d. to iod.
per lb. Seasonable at any time.
914. — POTTED OX-TONGUE.
Ingredients. — Cooked ox-tongue. To each lb. allow 3 ozs. of butter,
powdered mace, cloves, nutmeg, cayenne.
Method. — Chop the tongue finely, then pound it well in a mortar,
gradually adding clarified butter, and the above flavourings until
the whole is reduced to a moist smooth paste. Rub through a fine
sieve, press into pots, and cover with the remainder of the clarified
butter.
The Tongue of Animals. — The tongue in most vertebrate animals is the organ of taste. It is
composed of fleshy muscular tissue, and in man is attached by its base to the hyoid bone, but is free
at its other extremity. In many Ashes the muscular tissue is absent. The tongue of the parrot tribe
is fleshy, but in some birds, as the wood-pecker, it serves the purpose of a dart in capturing insects
which it transflxes. The characteristic roughness of the tongue is caused by the presence of papillae,
or minute spots protruding from the surface of the skin ; and these in the carnivora, as the lion, tiger’
etc., are large and horny, and act like a rasp in tearing off the flesh from the bones of their prey. A
curious solid body is found in the under surface of the tongue of the dog, called the “ worm,” or
“ lytta.” The top and edges are the most sensitive portions of the tongue, and the sense of touch,
as well as that of taste, is highly developed. Three main sets of nerves are situated in the tongue’
the gustatory and the lingual nerves, which are connected with the sense of feeling and taste, and the
hypo-glossal nerve, which acts upon the motor nerves of the muscles of the tongue. The tongue
of the ox somewhat resembles that of the horse, which is sometimes substituted by dishonest dealers
for the former. The deception may, however, be detected by observing the spoon-like expansion
which characterizes the tongue of the horse.
915. — POTATO PASTY. (Fr. — Pate de Pommes de
terre.)
Ingredients. — | a lb. of paste, J of a lb. of raw lean beef cut into dice,
\ of a lb. of parboiled potatoes cut into dice, 1 very small onion
cooked and finely-chopped, pepper and salt, gravy or water.
Method. — Make the paste as directed, roll it out, keeping it as round
as possible. Mix the meat, potato and onion together, season well,
and moisten with 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of gravy or water. Place the
532
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
meat preparation on one half of the paste, wet the edges, fold the other
half over, and join neatly and securely. Prick, and bake in a moderate
oven for nearly i hour, and serve either hot or cold.
Time. — To bake, from 50 to 60 minutes. Average Cost, 8d. or 9d.
Sufficient for 2 or 3 p2rsons. Seasonable at any time.
916. — PORTERHOUSE STEAK. (Fr.— Entrecote
Double.)
Ingredients. — A steak about i3 inches in thickness, cut from a well-
hung sirloin of beef, warm butter or salad-oil.
Method. — Brush the steak over on both sides with salad-oil or warm
butter, sprinkle with pepper, and when convenient let it remain for
1 hour before cooking. Grill over a clear fire ( see Grilling), and serve
with maitre d hotel butter, groups of button onions fried in butter
and glazed, small stuffed tomatoes, horseradish sauce, or suitable
accompaniment.
917. — PYRAMIDS OF BEEF. (Fr.— Pyramides de Bceuf .)
Ingredients. — 6 ozs. of finely-chopped underdone beef, 1 egg, a little
sauce, either brown or white, 1 shallot finely-chopped, 1 tablespoonful
of finely-chopped mushrooms, f of an oz. of butter, finely-chopped
parsley, salt and pepper, round croutes of fried or toasted bread, about
2 inches in diameter.
Method. — Melt the butter in a stewpan, fry the shallot and onion until
the former is well-browned, then put in the prepared meat, moisten
with a little sauce, add the beaten egg, season rather liberally with salt
and pepper, and stir over the fire for 10 or 15 minutes. If the mixture
becomes too stiff add more sauce; if not stiff enough to be piled high
on the croutes, cook a little longer, in order that the egg may bind more
firmly. Have the croutes ready, pile the mixture upon them, tapering
to a point. Sprinkle lightly with parsley, and serve as hot as possible.
Time. — To cook, 10 or 1 5 minutes. Average Cost, 7d. or 8d., in addition
to the meat.
918.— RAGOUT OF BEEF. (Fr.— Ragout de Bceuf.)
Ingredients. — 14 lb. of cold roast beef (preferably underdone), 2 ozs.
of butter or fat, 1+ ozs. of flour, 2 onions coarsely-chopped, 1 carrot cut
into dice, \ a turnip cut into dice, 1 pint of stock made from bones and
trimmings, salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the meat into neat slices, put them aside, and boil the
bones and trimmings at least 2 hours for stock. Melt the butter in a
stewpan, add the onion and trimmings of carrot and turnip, fry until
lightly browned, then sprinkle in the flour. Stir and cook slowly until
RECIPES FOR COOKING BEEF
533
well-browned, put in the stock, season to taste, and stir until boiling.
Boil gently for 15 minutes, then cool slightly, put in the meat, "cover
closely, and cook very gently for 1-^ hours, taking care to keep the
temperature just below simmering point. Place the slices of meat on
a hot dish, strain the sauce over, and garnish with the vegetable dice
cooked separately. A tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, walnut
liquor, sharp sauce or vinegar, may be used to give additional flavour
to the sauce.
Time. — To stew, \\ hours. Average Cost, qd., exclusive of the meat.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.
919. — ROAST BEEF PUDDING.
Ingredients. — 1 a lb. of cold roast beef finely-chopped, 3 ozs. of flour,
1 egg, \ a pint of milk, \ a teaspoonful of powdered mixed herbs, salt
and pepper, dripping.
Method. — Make the batter as directed for frying batter, season it with
salt and pepper, and add the herbs and meat. Melt a little dripping
in a piedish or deep baking-tin, put in the preparation, bake until set
and nicely browned, then serve.
Time. —To bake, about 40 minutes. Average Cost, 3d., in addition
to the meat. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Note. — The beef may also be prepared as for “ Beef au Gratin,” and instead
of using scallop shells, place the meat in a basin lined with suet paste crust,
cover with paste, and steam for 2 hours ( see “ Beef Steak Pudding.”).
920. — RIBS, ROAST. ( See Roast Beef.)
921. — SCOTCH COLLOPS.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of lean beefsteak, ij ozs. of butter, 1 teaspoonful
of flour, -} a teaspoonful of finely-chopped onion, \ of a pint of stock,
salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the meat into very small pieces, but do not chop it.
Make the butter hot in a stewpan, fry the onion lightly, stir in the flour
and cook a, little longer, then add the meat and the stock, and simmer
slowly for 40 minutes. Surround the dish with sippets of fried or
toasted bread, and serve hot.
Time. — To cook, 1 hour. Average Cost, is. qd. to is. 6d. Sufficient
for 2 or 3 persons.
922. — SIRLOIN, ROAST. ( See Roast Beef.)
Origin of the Word Sirloin. — The loin of beef is popularly supposed to have received the name
of “ Sirloin ” from the tradition that it was knighted by King Charles II at Friday Hall, Chingford,
on the Merry Monarch’s return from Epping Forest, when, “ hungry as a hunter,” he beheld with
delight a huge loin of beef smoking upon the table. “ A noble joint,” cried the king. ” By St.
George, it shall have a title.” Then drawing his sword, he raised it above the meat, and exclaimed
with mock dignity, “ Loin, we dub thee knight ; henceforth be Sir Loin ! ” Alas for the ingenuity
of the inventor of the story, the plain facts of philology are against him, the word surloyn being found
in Middle English in the fifteenth century, derived from Oid French, surlonge , fourteenth century,
sur , above, and longe, loin.
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
534
923. — SEA PIE.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of beefsteak, £ of a lb. of suet paste ( see pastes),
I small onion, 1 carrot, pepper and salt.
Method. — Cut the steak into thin slices about 3 inches square, put
them into a shallow stewpan, season with salt and pepper, barely
cover the slices with boiling water, put on the lid, and simmer
gently. Slice the carrot thinly, cut the onion into small pieces, and
add them to the meat. Make the paste as directed, roll it into a round
rather less than the top of the stewpan. Lay this on the top of the
meat when it has simmered for \ an hour, replace the lid, and continue
the cooking for if- hours longer. When the pie is done, cut the paste
into 4 pieces, and remove them carefully from the stewpan to a plate ;
arrange the meat and vegetables neatly on a hot dish, and place the
crust on the top.
Time. — About 2\ hours. Average Cost, is. 4d. to is. 6d. Sufficient
for 4 persons.
924. — SLICED AND BROILED BEEF. {Fr.— Boeuf
Grille aux Pomme de Terre.)
Ingredients.- — Slices of cold roast beef, potato ribbons, frying-batter>
frying-fat, salad-oil or oiled butter, salt and pepper.
Method. — Brush the slices of meat over with salad oil or oiled butter,
broil over a clear fire, and season carefully with salt and pepper. Dip
the potato ribbons into the prepared batter, fry them rather slowly
in a deep pan of hot fat until crisp and nicely browned, and drain well.
Place the meat on a hot dish, garnish with the potato ribbons, then
serve.
Time. — To broil the meat, 5 minutes. Seasonable at any time.
925. — SMOTHERED BEEFSTEAK.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of rump steak, 3 or 4 Spanish onions, flour, salt and
pepper, dripping.
Method. — Cut the onions across the stalk into rings, put them into
a frying-pan in which a little dripping has been melted, and season
liberally with salt and pepper. Dredge wrell with flour, fry until crisp
and lightly-browned, then remove and keep hot. Strain the fat and
return it to the frying-pan, adding more if necessary, let it become very
hot, and put in the steak. Fry according to taste, turning 2 or 3
times during the process, and, when done, remove and keep hot. Drain
off nearly all the fat, add to the rest as much flour as it will absorb,
brown nicely, and add a little boiling water. Boil up, season to taste,
simmer for 2 minutes, and strain. Place the meat on a hot dish,
cover with onion, pour the gravy over, then serve.
RECIPES FOR COOKING BEEF
535
Time. — To fry, from io to 15 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. to is. 8d.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.
926. — STEAK PUDDING, BAKED.
Ingredients. — ‘I lb. of beef steak, 3 a lb. of ox kidney, 6 ozs. of flour, 2
eggs, of a pint of milk, salt and pepper, dripping.
Method. — Cut the steak into finger-shaped pieces, fry for. a few
minutes in dripping, and the kidney into rather thin slices, and
season liberally with salt and pepper. Mix the eggs, milk and flour
into a smooth batter ( see Pastes), and season to taste with salt.
Melt a little dripping in an earthenware baking-dish or pie-dish, put
in jr the batter, and bake until set. Place the partially fried
steak and kidney on the top of the batter, fill up the dish with the
remainder of the batter, and bake until set and well-browned.
Time. — To bake, about 1^ hours. Average Cost, is. 6d. to is. iod.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.
927. — STEAK, ROLLED. (Fr.— Tranche de Bceuf
roule.)
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of steak, Cut in 1 piece, J of an inch in thick-
ness, 6 to 8 ozs. of veal forcemeat {see Forcemeats), 1 pint of stock or
water, 1^- ozs. of butter, 1 tablespoonful of flour, salt and pepper.
Method.— Flatten the meat with a cutlet-bat or rolling-pin. Let
the forcemeat be rather highly seasoned, spread it on the meat, roll
up tightly, and bind with tape. Heat the butter in a stewpan, put
in the meat, and fry quickly until the whole surface is browned, then
add the hot stock or water, cover closely, and cook slowly for about
2 hours. When done, place on a hot dish, thicken the gravy with the
flour, boil for 3 or 4 minutes, season to taste, and strain over the meat.
Time. — About 2 hours, to cook. Average Cost, 2s. 9d. to 3s. Sufficient
for 4 or 5 persons.
Note. — The roll may also be baked in the oven, but it must be well basted
(.either with stock or fat.
928. — STEWED BEEF WITH OYSTERS.
( Fr . — Bosuf aux Huitres.)
Ingredients. — Thick slices of tender underdone cold beef, t2 sauce
'oysters, ozs. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, 1 small onion or 2 shallots finely-
•chopped, f- of a pint of stock, salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the meat into pieces the size and shape of fillets of beef
({see No. 874). Heat the butter in a stewpan, fry the meat quickly
until lightly browned on both sides, then remove and keep hot. Fry
536
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
the onion or shallots until lightly browned, then sprinkle in the flour,
stir and cook slowly until well-browned, and add the stock. Season
to taste, boil gently for 15 minutes, then cool slightly and put in the
meat. Cook very slowly for 1 hour, keeping the temperature just
below simmering point, then add the flavoured oysters and their
strained liquor. Cook for a very few minutes longer to plump the
oysters, and serve immediately, otherwise the oysters will harden.
Time. — ii hours. Average Cost, is. 6d., in addition to the meat.
Sufficient — Allow 1 lb. to 3 persons. Seasonable from September till
March.
929. — STEWED BRISKET OF BEEF. ( Fr Poitrine
de Boeuf a la Bourgeoise.)
Ingedients. — 6 or 7 lb. of fresh brisket of beef, vinegar, 2 carrots
\ a turnip 2 onions, 2 or 3 strips of celery, 1 blade of mace, 10 pepper-
corns, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), i-J- ozs. of butter,
ib ozs. of flour, stock, salt and pepper.
Method. — Rub the meat over writh vinegar and salt, and let it remain
2 or 3 hours before dressing. Put it into a stewpan just large
enough to contain it, barely cover with stock, or water when stock
is not available, bring to the boil and skim well. Simmer gently for
1 hour, then add the prepared vegetables, mace, peppercorns, bouquet-
garni, and salt if required, and continue to cook as slowly as possible
for hours longer, keeping the stewpan closely covered meanwhile.
During the preparation of the above heat the butter in a smaller stew-
pan, add the flour, stir and cook slowly until it acquires a nut-brown
colour, then put aside until wanted. When ready, take up the meat
remove the bones, strain the stock, and add to it either stock or water
to make up 1 pint. Add this to the prepared butter and flour, stir until
boiling, boil gently for a few minutes, and season to taste. Serve the
meat garnished with the vegetables, and the sauce separately.
Time. — To stew, 3} hours. Average Cost, 3s. 8d. to 4s. Seasonable at
any time.
930. — STEWED STEAK.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of beefsteak, £ of a pint of stock or water, 1 oz. of
butter, 1 oz. of flour, 1 onion, 1 carrot, £ a turnip, pepper and salt.
Method. — Remove the fat from the steak and put it aside until
wanted, divide the lean into 5 or 6 pieces. Cut the vegetables into
dice, or julienne strips, and keep them in water until required. Heat
the butter in a stewpan, fry the steak quickly until browned on both
sides, remove it, put in the trimmings of the vegetables and the flour,
fry brown, then add the stock or water and stir until boiling. Re-
place the meat, season to taste, cover closely, and cook gently lor
RECIPES FOR COOKING BEEF
537
about 2 hours. When done, have ready the dice or strips of vegetables
boiled until tender in salted water, and the fat of the meat fried and
nicely browned. Arrange the pieces of steak neatly on a hot dish,
strain the sauce over, place the fat on the top, and garnish the base
with groups of the prepared vegetables.
Time. — From 2\ to 2+ hours. Average Cost, is. 4d. to is. 6d. Suffi-
cient for 3 or 4 persons.
931. — TENDERLOIN OF BEEF.
Ingredients. — A thick slice off a well-hung sirloin, salad-oil or oiled
butter, salt and pepper.
Method. — Brush the meat on both sides with salad-oil or oiled butter,
grill over a clear fire until done, turning two or three times, and re-
peatedly brush it over with oil or butter. Season with salt and
pepper, and serve with fried potatoes and Maitre d’ Hotel butter, or
any other accompaniments preferred.
Time. — 10 to 15 minutes, according to thickness. Average Cost,
is. 2d. to is. 4d. per lb.
932. — TOAD-IN-THE-HOLE.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of beef steak (cut up small), 4 ozs. of flour, \ a pint
of milk, 1 egg, salt, dripping.
Method. — Mix the flour, milk, egg, and a little salt into a smooth
batter. Put into a Yorkshire pudding tin sufficient dripping to forjn
a thin layer when melted, pour in about J of the batter, and bake until
set. Then add the meat, season it with salt and pepper, pour in the
remainder of the batter, bake quickly until it has risen and set, and
then more slowly until sufficiently cooked. Serve in squares arranged
neatly overlapping each other on a hot dish.
Time. — To bake, about 1 hour. Average Cost, is. 3d. to is. 5d. Suffi-
cient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.
933. — TONGUE BOILED. (Fr. — Langue de Bceuf.)
Ingredients. — 1 tongue, a bunch of savoury herbs, water.
Method. — In choosing a tongue, ascertain how long it has been dried
or pickled, and select one with a smooth skin, which denotes its being
young and tender. If a dried one, and rather hard, soak it at least
for 12 hours previous to cooking it ; if, however, the tongue is fresh
from the pickle, 2 or 3 hours will be sufficient for it to remain in soak.
Put the tongue into a stewpan with plenty of cold water and a bunch
of savoury herbs, let it gradually come to a boil, skim well, and simmer
very gently until tender. Peel off the skin, garnish with tufts of cauli-
flowers or Brussels sprouts, and serve. Boiled tongue is frequently
538
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
sent to table with boiled poultry, instead of ham, and is preferred by
many. If the tongue is to be served cold, peel it, fasten it down
to a piece of board by sticking a fork through the root, and an-
other through the top to straighten it. When cold, glaze it, put
p, paper ruche round the root, and garnish with tufts of parsley.
Time. — A large smoked tongue, 4 to <\\ hours ; a small one, 2% to 3
hours. A large unsmoked tongue, 3 to 2 2 hours ; a small one, 2 to 2\
hours. Average Cost, for a moderate-sized tongue, 5s. to 6s. 6d.
934. — TONGUE TO CURE. (Fr.— Langue de Bceuf
Sale.)
Ingredients. — For a tongue of 7 lb., 1 oz. of saltpetre, \ an oz. of black
pepper, 4 ozs. of sugar, 3 ozs. of juniper berries, 6 ozs. of salt.
Method. — - Rub the above ingredients well into the tongue, let it
remain in the pickle for 10 or 14 days, then drain it, tie it up in brown
paper, and have it smoked for about 20 days over a wood fire. It
may be boiled without smoking if liked.
Time. — From 10 to 14 days, to remain in the pickle • to be smoked
24 days.
Average Cost, for a medium-sized uncured tongue, 3s. 6d.
935. — TOURNEDOS OF BEEF A LA COLBERT.
(Fr. — Tournedos a la Colbert.)
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of fillet of beef, 1 oz. of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls
of salad-oil. For the Eschalot sauce : J of a pint of good gravy or
demi-glace sauce (No. 242), 6 finely-chopped shallots, a teaspoonful
of finely-chopped parsley, \ a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, 1 glass of
sherry. For the garnish : small rounds of potato fried, and fried
croutons of bread.
Method. — Cut the meat into rounds, both smaller and thinner than
fillets of beef. Melt the butter in a saute-pan, fry the shallots lightly,
let the butter cool slightly, then strain, leave the shallots to drain,
and return the butter to the saute-pan. Into a small stewpan put the
gravy or demi-glace sauce, sherry, parsley, lemon-juice, the shallots
when sufficiently drained, and boil until well reduced, then season
to taste, and keep hot until required. Add the salad-oil to the butter
in the saute-pan, and when hot put in the tournedos and fry them
quickly until nicely browned. Arrange them in a circle on a border
of mashed potato, put the fried rounds of potato in the centre, garnish
with the croutons of fried bread, and serve the Echalot sauce in a
sauce-boat, or pour round the crust.
Time. — \ an hour. Average Cost. — 4s. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
RECIPES FOR COOKING BEEF
539
936. — TOURNEDOS OF BEEF A LA SICILIAN.
(Fr. — Tournedos de Boeuf a la Sicilienne.)
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of fillet of beef, J of a pint of Espagnole or brown
sauce, No. 244, or 233, 1 glass of Marsala, butter for frying, 1
heaped tablespoonful of shredded onion, cayenne pepper, pepper and
salt, potato border.
Method. — Cut the fillets into rounds 2\ inches across and about
+ an inch in thickness, and season with salt and pepper. Brown the
shredded onion in a little hot butter, drain free from fat, mix with the
prepared sauce, and add the Marsala. Season to taste, and simmer
gently until required. Broil the fillets over a clear fire, or fry them
in a little hot butter, and arrange them in a close row on a border of
potato. Pour a little sauce round, and serve the remainder separately.
Time. — To broil or fry the fillets, from 5 to 8 minutes. Average Cost,
3s. 6d. to 4s. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
937. — TOURNEDOS OF BEEF A LA BEARNAISE.
(Fr.— Tournedos de Boeuf a la Bearnaise.)
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of fillet of beef, ^ of a pint of Bearnaise Sauce,
No. 176, 1 of a pint of demi-glace sauce, No. 242, butter if fried, salt and
pepper, mashed potato.
Method. — Cut the fillet into |--inch slices, trim them into round or
oval shapes 2} inches across, and season with salt and pepper. Grill
over a clear fire, or, if preferred, fry in hot butter. Cover one side
with Bearnaise Sauce, arrange neatly on a potato border, and pour the
demi-glace sauce round.
Time. — To fry or grill, 6 to 8 minutes. Average Cost, 3s. 6d. Suffi-
cient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
938. — TOURNEDOS OF BEEF A LA VENETIENNE.
(Fr. — Tournedos de Boeuf a la Venetienne.)
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of fillet of beef, 6 or 8 very small tomatoes, 6 or 8
round croutes of fried bread, 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of spinach or green
pea puree, slices of hard-boiled white of egg, slices of truffle, {- of a pint
of demi-glace sauce, No. 244, salt and pepper, potato border.
Method. — Scoop out a little of the pulp of the tomatoes, and squeeze
away some of the juice. Season with salt and pepper, fill with the
prepared vegetable puree, piling it high, and make thoroughly hot in
the oven. Prepare the tournedos as directed in preceding recipes,
grill over a clear fire, or fry in hot butter, then season them with salt
and pepper, and arrange neatly on a potato border. Place the toma-
toes on the croutes, lay on the top first a slice of white of egg, and then a
much smaller slice of truffle. Pour the sauce round, and serve.
540
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Time. — To grill or fry, from 6 lo 8 minutes. Average Cost, 4s. 6d. to
4s. 9CI. Sufficient for 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
939. — TOURNEDOS OF BEEF A LA NELSON.
(Fr. — Tournedos de Bceuf a, la Nelson.)
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of fillet of beef, $ of a pint of small button onions,
of a pint of potato dice, \ a pint of Espagnole or brown sauce, No. 244,
or 233, 1 glass of Madeira, butter for frying, frying-fat, salt and
pspper.
Method. — Parboil the onions in strong stock, then drain them. Cut
the meat into fillets \ an inch thick and 2 inches in diameter, fry lightly
in hot butter, then drain and place them separately in small casseroles,
season with salt and pepper, and add the onions. Have the sauce
ready in a stewpan, add the wine, season to taste, fill up the casseroles,
and cook gently for about 40 minutes. Fry the potato dice in hot fat
until well-browned, drain well, and add them to the contents of the
casseroles 10 or 15 minutes before serving.
Time. — To fry, 3 or 4 minutes; to stew, 40 minutes. Average Cost,
3s. 6d. to 3s. 9d. Sufficient for 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
940. — TRIPE AND ONIONS.
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of dressed tripe, 2 large onions, \ a pint of milk.
\ a pint of water, 1 tablespoonful of flour, 1 teaspoonful of salt and
pepper.
Method. — Cut the tripe into 3-inch squares ; put them into a stewpan,
cover with cold water, bring to boiling point, and strain. Replace
the tripe, add the milk, water and salt, boil up, put in the thinly-sliced
onions, and simmer for 3 hours. 20 minutes before serving have
the flour mixed smoothly with a little milk, pour it into the stewpan,
stir until boiling, and simmer for 15 minutes. Season to taste, and
serve.
Time. — About 3^ hours. Average Cost, is. 8d. Sufficient for 4 or 5
persons
941. — TRIPE A LA LYONNAISE.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of cold boiled tripe, 2 ozs. of butter, 1 large onion
sliced, 1 heaped teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 1 dessertspoon-
ful of vinegar, salt and pepper.
Method.— Cut the tripe into pieces 2 inches square. Heat the butter
in a frying-pan, fry the onion until tender and lightly-browned, then
add the prepared tripe, parsley, vinegar, and salt and pepper to taste.
Toss over the fire for a few minutes, and serve as hot as possible.
Time. — About 15 minutes. Averagi Cost, is. Sufficient for 4 or 5
persons. Seasonable at any time.
RECIPES FOR COOKING BEEF
54i
942. — TRIPE, FRIED. (Fr.— Tripe Frite.)
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of dressed tripe, 3 tablespoonfuls of flour, about
4 of a pint of milk or water, salt and pepper, dripping.
Method. — Mix the milk and flour into a smooth batter, adding a
little more milk if the batter is too stiff to run readily from the spoon,
and a liberal seasoning of salt and pepper. Cut the tripe into 3-inch
squares, dip them into the batter, and fry them until crisp and brown
in a little hot dripping in a frying-pan. Onions sliced and fried are
frequently served as an accompaniment to this dish.
Time.— About \ hour, to prepare and fry. Average Cost, is. 6d.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
943. — TRIPE, TO DRESS.
Ingredients. — Tripe, water.
Method.— The paunch is always emptied and cleansed in the slaughter
house, and seldom offered for sale in an entirely untrimmed condition.
When bought in its natural state, it must be repeatedly washed, and
afterwards boiled for ten hours or more, during which time the water
should be changed at least three times.
944. — TO CLARIFY BEEF SUET OR FAT.
Ingredients.- — 6 lb. of beef fat, 1 pint of cold water.
Method. — Remove skin and sinews of the fat, then cut it into small
pieces ; put them with the water into an old iron saucepan, and boil
until all the water has evaporated and the liquid becomes clear, and
the pieces of fat light-brown and shrivelled in appearance. Stir fre-
quently to prevent the fat sticking to the pan. When cool, strain.
This amount of fat should produce 4 lb. of clarified fat. The fat may
be cooked or uncooked, and a small quantity may be more conveniently
clarified in a jar in the oven.
Time. — From 2 to 3 hours. Average Cost, from qd. per lb. Quantity,
6 lb. yields 4 lb. of clarified fat.
945. -TO CLARIFY BEEF DRIPPING.
Put the dripping into an old iron saucepan, cover with boiling water,
and boil uncovered for \ an hour. Cool slightly, then pour into an
earthenware vessel, and as soon as it is cold and firm scrape the im-
purities from the under surface, and re-heat, to evaporate all water. If
the fat is left on the water, after it is set, it will absorb some of the
water.
I
542 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
946 TO SALT BEEF. (See Recipe No. 913.)
947.— TO SALT BEEF, DUTCH WAY. (Fr.— Boeuf
Sale, a la Hollandaise.)
Ingredients. — 10 lb. of round or brisket of beef, 1 lb. of common salt
1 lb. of treacle, 1 oz. of saltpetre.
Method. — Rub the beef well with the treacle, let it remain for 3 days,
meanwhile turning and rubbing it frequently, then drain and wipe dry.
Mix the salt and saltpetre together, rub the mixture well into the meat,
and turn it daily for io days. Roll tightly in a coarse cloth, place under
heavy pressure for 2 days, and afterwards let it hang in the smoke from
a peat or wood fire for 14 days. Boil or braise in the usual way, press
until cold, then glaze and serve.
Time. — 29 days. Average Cost, 6|d. to 9d. per lb. Seasonable at
any time.
SHEEP
i. Welsh Mountain Ram. 2. Hampshire Ram.
20
SHEEP AND LAMB.
CHAPTER XVII
General Observations on the various breeds, Colonial
Sheep, manner of cutting up, table of prices, etc.
The origin of domesticated sheep is by no means clear, although
much pains has been taken by naturalists to trace their history. In
the exhaustive treatise on sheep by William Youatt, published in 1837,
an interesting account is given of both wild and domesticated sheep,
and the reader is carried back to the time of Abel, who sacrificed “ the
firstlings of his flock.” The constant allusions to sheep in the book of
Genesis are remarkable, and the patriarch Jacob was a successful
breeder. The whiteness of the wool is emphasized in several passages
of the Old Testament, and Gideon’s fleece was used as a prophetic sign.
Homer sang of sheep, and Moses attended the flocks of Jethro. The
shepherd kings conquered Egypt, and the patriarchs were warned by
their brother Joseph to speak of themselves to Pharaoh as understand-
ing “ cattle ” because “ every shepherd is an abomination unto the
Egyptians.” Nevertheless a few verses on we read that when Pharaoh
asked “ What is your occupation ? ” the honest reply was “ Thy ser-
vants are shepherds, both we and also our fathers.” Sheep in that
early period were in many respects similar to what they are now.
The most esteemed wool was white, the lambs and rams were fat, the
flocks were tended, washed, shorn and milked. Lambs without spot
or blemish were sacrificed to Jehovah, and rams’ skins dyed red were
used in embellishing the Tabernacle of the congregation.
WILD SHEEP.
Truly wild sheep such as Ovis ammen or argae, Ovis musmon, etc.,
do not appear to be the progenitors of Ovis aries or the domesticated
sheep, the wild types of which seem to have disappeared completely.
The great naturalist Darwin was unable to throw any light on the
origin of our sheep, and despairingly remarks: “ Most authors look at
our domestic sheep as descended from several distinct species. Mr.
543
544
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Blyth, who has carefully attended to this subject, belie res that four-
teen wild species now exist, but that not one of them ca . be identified
as the progenitor of any one of the interminable domestic races. M.
Gervais thinks that there are six species of Ovis, but that our domestic
sheep form a distinct genus now completely extinct. D) L. Fitzinger
believes that our sheep descend from the aboriginally dL inct species,
of which only one is now living in a wild state. Anol ingenious
observer, though not a naturalist, with a bold defiance of everything
known on geographical distribution, infers that the sheep of Great
Britain alone are the descendants of eleven endemic forms ” (Dar-
win’s “Animals and plants under Domestication ”).
It would evidently be foreign to our present object to describe any
truly wild sheep, as they are not known to be in any way connected
with domestic sheep, except biologically or generically.
DOMESTICATED SHEEP.
No doubt these are descended from wild forms, which at an early
period in human history were reclaimed and domesticated, and it is
probable that the original types were fitted for the purposes of man
and capable of improvement. Zoologically, they belonged to the
great natural order Ruminantia, and to the division of the hollow-
horned ruminants, among which are to be found oxen, antelopes and
goats (capridae). The Ovidae are closely related to the Capridae,
but have no beard, and differ in voice and habits. The peculiar bleat
of the sheep is common to all races, as is also their dense covering of
wool. In some races the wool is largely mingled with hair, and it is
certain that the fineness and whiteness of the wool is the result of care-
ful breeding for probably thousands of years. Many unimproved
breeds are parti-coloured, as was evidently the case in the time of
Jacob, where we read of “ ring-straked, spotted and speckled.” It is
proverbial that there is a black sheep in every flock, and the constant
recurrence of black, grey and reddish fleeces even in the most carefully
bred flocks attests the fact that at one time they were much more
common than now. Many lambs are born black or dark in colour,
although they grow white later in life, and this is in accordance with
the observation that young animals often exhibit markings and peculi-
arities of very remote ancestors.
If we confine ourselves to British races of sheep we shall find ameng
them almost every characteristic of the domesticated animal. Many
of them are horned, as in the cases of the Highland black-faced breed,
the Lonk, the Crag or Limestone, the Dorset and the old Wiltshire
breed. Others are hornless, like the Leicesters, Lincolns, Downs,
Oxfords and Shropshires, but in all breeds there are occasional rudi-
mentary or defective horns known as “ snags.” There can be no
doubt that all our breeds were originally horned. The faces and
shanks are white, black, piebald, grey or russet, according to race,
I
SOUTHDOWN WETHER.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON SHEEP 545
and the fleeces are long, medium, short, close or open, fine or coarse.
THE PRINCIPAL BREEDS.
If we take a survey from the extreme north to the south coast, we
shall find the following races of sheep in possession. The remoter
parts of Scotland, such as the islands of Arran, Islay, Jura, the Orkneys
and Shetlands are still inhabited by sheep of small size of various
colours, some being dun-faced, others white-faced and horned, others
dark, black, or russet in colour. These are apparently indigenous, or,
as in the case of Shetland sheep, derived from Scandinavia. Shetland
wool is well known for its fineness, and is esteemed for the manufacture
of shawls, stockings, and for all light woollen manufactures. Argyle-
shire and most of the black or heath lands of the Highlands, are now
stocked with the Heath or Black-faced breed, which is aimed in both
sexes with horns. The faces and legs are black and white, clearly
defined ; the fleece is long and mixed with hair along the back ; the
form is short and the general character active, bold and hardy. They
live on grass and heather, and the flesh derives a pleasant flavour
from the latter. The black-faced sheep has displaced the original
smaller breeds throughout the Highlands, and as far south as Dum-
friesshire. It occupies the extensive moors of Northumberland, and
extends into Derbyshire, and it is highly esteemed in the mountainous
regions of N. Wales.
The Cheviot breed of sheep is short woolled and usually hornless.
Its original home is the Great Cheviot, but it is largely kept on the Low-
lands, both north and south of Cheviot. This sheep is extremely
hardy, and does well upon the lower ranges of the Scotch Highlands
wherever grass abounds ; but when heather takes the place of grass
the black faces predominate. A cross between Cheviot and Border-
Leicester is much in favour throughout the Lowlands, and in the
northern counties of England.
The Border-Leicester is well known in Berwickshire, Roxburgh and
Northumberland, both as a pure breed and for crossing with both
Cheviot and black-faced ewes. The former gives an excellent “teg,”
which fattens more rapidly than the Cheviot. The latter gives the
“ mule ” or Masharn sheep, which thrives well upon the poorer classes
of grass land in Yorkshire, Durham and Northumberland.
In Yorkshire the true Leicester occurs in perfection, but this breed
is also found in its native county, and is the premier breed of the
country in point of age as its improvement was carried out by Robert
Bakewell of Dishley, Loughborough, in the middle years of the eight-
eenth century. The Improved Leicester breed has been more exten-
sively used than any other long woolled race in improving other breeds
of similar character of wool. The improved Lincoln, Romney Marsh,
Kentish long-wools, Devon long-wools and Cotswolds were all crossed
with Leicesters in the earlier years of the last century or previously.
T
546
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
The mutton is rather coarse and the fat is laid on too thickly ; but for
crossing purposes the breed has been very useful.
In Lincolnshire the Improved Lincoln is the predominant breed,
especially in the low-lying rich lands of the south. It is a white-faced
hornless breed, and in this respect closely resembles the Leicester.
It is of much larger size, and is probably the heaviest sheep in the
world. Lincoln sheep have often attained a weight of 90 lb. a quarter
or 360 lb. carcass weight, while their wool has been known to measure
23 inches in length, and the fleeces have scaled as heavy as 23 lb. of
wool This sheep is adapted for the rich marshes of the fen districts,
and requires good land. Its wool has received the appellation of
“ lustre,” from its glistening brilliance where severed from the body.
The Lincoln sheep is too heavy in the carcass and too fat to please the
taste of epicures. In the days when wool sold at is. 6d. to 2 s. a pound,
a Lincoln teg in his wool was worth £5, and even now Lincoln rams
from the best flocks have been sold for hundreds of pounds each.
There is a great export trade for the rams to Argentina and Australia,
as the Lincoln-Merino is a profitable cross, combining the properties
of both flesh and wool to a high degree.
In the Midlands of England Shropshire sheep are the favourite breed.
They are of composite origin, being derived from Shropshire ewes
crossed successively with Leicester and South Downs. They now
constitute an established race of medium woolled, dark-faced, hornless
sheep, of thick and substantial form, and yielding mutton of superior
quality.
The OxforJ breed was originally derived by crossing Cotswolds and
Hampshire Downs, and the produce were long known as cross-breds.
The credit is due to the late Mr. John Twynam, and the Messrs. Druce
of Eynsham. The Oxfords are not so widely distributed as the Shrop-
shires, but they breed largely in Oxfordshire and contiguous counties.
In many respects they resemble Shropshires, but are easily distin-
guished by their longer ears and freedom from wrinkles on the neck
and around the under-jaw.
The Cotswold breed of sheep has long been associated with the Cots-
wold hills, which rise above Cheltenham and extend through north
Gloucestershire into Oxfordshire and Worcestershire. It is an up-
standing, white-faced, hornless sheep, with a boldly curling fleece,
and, like all the heavy breeds of long-woolled sheep, its mutton does
not command the highest price. It is however highly esteemed upon
its native hills, and is no doubt the result of Leicester crosses upon
the older breed which occupied Cotswold.
Among other long-woolled sheep, the Devon long wools, the Kentish
long wools, the Romney Marsh and the Worsleydale all deserve notice,
and all three closely resemble Lincoln sheep.
DOWN BREEDS.
The South Down or Sussex Down stands out pre-eminently as the best
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON SHEEP
547
known of all the Down races of sheep. It was improved by the elder
and younger Ellmans of Glynde, and was considered in the time of
George III to be a perfect sheep for wool and mutton, size and quality.
Four-year-old South Down mutton was the food of kings and nobles,
and is still unrivalled except by some of the smaller Welsh and Devon
breeds. The South Down is a hornless sheep with fawn-coloured
face and legs. His form is singularly compact, and his carcass is always
heavier than it looks. His original home is the Sussex Downs, north
of Brighton, and it is there that he attains the highest perfection.
The breed has always been a favourite, and King Edward VII is a
breeder of excellent South Downs. So was the late Duke of Rich-
mond, the present Lord Walsingham, and many distinguished gentle-
men. After the Ellmans, the late Jonas Webb, of Babraham, Cam-
bridgeshire, deserves special notice as an improver of this invaluable
breed of sheep. What the Leicester sheep was to the older long-
woolled races of sheep, the South Down has been to the numerous
Down breeds, which in the time of Youatt occupied every chalk county
in England. At that time Kent, Essex, Bucks, Berks, Surrey, Sussex,
Hants, etc., all boasted breeds of Down sheep, but the South Down left
an impress which obliterated most of these distinctions. He was
crossed repeatedly upon the flocks of these counties, including Hamp-
shire and Wilts, and the consequence is that at the present time there
are only three types of Downs, namely, the Sussex Down, the Hamp-
shire Down, and the Suffolk Down, all of which owe their perfection to
crosses with the South Down. The same is true of Shropshire and
Oxford sheep, so that the Sussex Down must be credited with having
improved all the Down breeds of the country.
Hampshire Downs. — These were formerly called West-country Downs,
because they were originally found west of the South Downs upon the
chalk hills of Hampshire. They were freely crossed with South Downs,
a.nd notably by Mr. Humphries of Oakash, Berks, who is looked upon
as the immediate founder of the Improved Hampshire Down. This sheep
is of larger build than the South Down and darker features. The best
types are almost black in face and legs, hornless (as every breed in
in this review not described as horned may be assumed to be), and
well covered upon the head with white wool. “ Well coloured and
well covered ” is one of the watchwords of the Hampshire Down
breeder ; and sheep which can be so described are always admired.
They are very hardy and well suited for the high and exposed uplands
of Wilts and Hants. They are however by no means confined to
those counties, but are found either pure or crossed in all parts of the
country. Hampshire rams have recently made 160 guineas each,
and deserve a higher price. Thev yield good fleeces and first-rate
mutton, and are every vear gaining in favour for exportation.
Suffolk Downs. — The Suffolk men are justly proud of their county
breed, which, although there can be little doubt that it was crossed
54§
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
with the Sussex Down, is now a distinct or constituted breed. The
distinguishing features are black faces and black shanks, and the head
is bare of wool even behind the ears. This at once distinguishes them
from Hampshire Downs. They have no horns, and the wool and
mutton are of excellent quality. There is no better breed, but space
scarcely allows of extended remarks upon this, the third true Down
sheep requiring notice.
The Dorset Horn. — The Dorset horned sheep is chiefly found in South
Hants, the Isle of Wight and on the south coast. It is a white-faced
breed, horned in both sexes, and covered with fine white wool. Its
chief distinction lies in the fact that it produces the earliest lamb for
the London market. The ewes drop their lambs in September and
later, and the greatest pains is taken in order to provide fat lambs
about Christmas. This form of sheep-farming requires a breed adapted
to the purpose and a favourable climate, and both these conditions
are supplied by the Dorset sheep and the Dorsetshire soil.
MOUNTAIN AND FOREST BREEDS.
The Scotch black faces have already received attention, and must
rank as the widest in distribution of any mountain or forest breed.
As, however, several of the less known breeds are highly appreciated for
the fineness of their flesh, and its delicate and close-grained quality,
a short space must be devoted to them. Welsh mutton stands high
in public estimation, and is furnished by the small white-faced horn-
less sheep of the Principality, which attains a weight of 9 to 10 lb. a
quarter.
Dartmoor and Exmoor Sheep. — Although the sheep of Dartmoor and
Exmoor have been modified by Leicester crosses, there still remains
the original small-horned white-faced sheep, which resembles a diminu-
tive Dorset, weighing 9 to 12 lb. per quarter. This produces the
celebrated Okehampton mutton, which always commands a high price
in London.
Clun Forest Sheep, etc. — These are a white-faced hornless breed
of small size, and may be named in connexion with the black-faced
horned Long Mynd breed, and fine-woolled Morfe common horned,
speckled-faced sheep, which is said to have been used in bringing out
the better known Shropshire breed of sheep.
The Herdwick Sheep. — This is a race which is cultivated in West-
moreland, Cumberland and the Lake district. It is highly popular
in these districts, and the lambs are born with black heads and feet,
but gradually become white as they grow older. Horns are not essen-
tial, although they are frequent in the rams, but the ewes are hornless.
The Herdwick sheep exhibited at Chester in 1893 were often dark in
the wool, and the second prize ram was nearly black. Swarthiness
in the wool did not appear to disqualify in the eyes of the judges.
Lonk Sheep. — These sheep resemble the Scotch black-faced breed,
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON SHEEP
549
but their wool is much finer, probably due to South Down crosses at
an early period.
Crag or Limestone Sheep. — Both sexes are horned, and the faces,
shanks and fleeces are white. They stand drought remarkably well,
and do not require water. They are found upon the mountain lime'
stone tracts of West Yorkshire and East Lancashire, and form a striking
contrast to the Lonks, which do better upon the damper and lower
grounds of these dales.
Welsh Sheep. — These are very various in character. Some are white-
faced and furnished with horns, while others are hornless. The best
type of Radnors are black-faced, and the rams are horned. They
are all of small size, and are esteemed for the superior quality of their
mutton. Small joints and a weight of from 9 to 14 or 15 lb. a quarter,
coupled with meat of a fine grain and dark colour, are their principal
attractions.
Reviewing these numerous breeds of sheep, it is interesting to inquire
the reasons why they differ from each other so widely. There can be
no doubt that several of these races spring from distinct species which
at one time existed in the wild state. Domestication, however, always
tends to variation of type, as was originally pointed out by the natur-
alist Pallas. No sooner is an animal or plant placed under artificial
conditions than it ceases to breed true. This fact is proved by every
domesticated animal and cultivated plant. Even our pets, such as
cage-birds, pigeons, poultry, dogs, cats, rabbits, mice, rats, etc., produce
young which break into new colours and new properties. The uni-
formity of Nature is disturbed and variation is the result, and that in
almost every conceivable direction. It is the same with cultivated
plants, and is due, in a word, to artificial conditions. Still, the natural
disposition of like to produce like holds good, and as a consequence the
peculiarity or variation is continued and may be exaggerated by
selection. In the next place, crossing established, sub-varieties, pro-
ducing still more forms, and the breeder’s art assisted in developing
those characters which he desired to see perpetuated.
Selection and crossing are answerable for a large number, if not all,
of our races, but soil and climate are still always acting in further
modifying types. It is remarkable that domesticated animals as well
as plants which have escaped from artificial restraint, gradually return
to their original type, or at least to uniformity of colour, size and habits.
In sheep the principal objects of the breeder are the development of
flesh and wool, but in this treatise meat is of the greater importance.
Quality of Mutton. — The best mutton is generally associated with the
smaller breeds of sheep, on account of the finer texture of the muscular
fibres which constitute the lean meat. These small sheep are found
where the herbage is short, sweet and varied, and where the animal
must exert itself to find its food. Exercise leads to muscular develop-
ment, and is unfavourable to the accumulation of mass of fat. The
550
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
flesh closely resembles venison or game, and is rich in muscle (lean),
and not disfigured by fat. Hence all mountain and heath sheep pro-
duce a high quality of mutton. Short wool and fine mutton generally go
together, and in most of the best mutton races the face and shanks are
coloured black, brown or grey. The Down breeds have all roamed
over sweet and scant herbage for centuries, and have acquired a mus-
cular development and fineness of fibre common to them all. The
long-woolled races above described have developed heavier fleeces,
larger frames, and coarser flesh by grazing on rich lowlands, and by
artificial feeding in winter. They lay their fat on externally on their
backs and loins, and never handle so firmly as Down or Forest-bred
sheep. The two classes of long-woolled and short-woolled sheep differ
in the following points : —
Long-Woolled Sheep.
Heavier carcasses.
Longer wool.
White faces and shanks.
Coarser mutton.
Fat, external and unduly de-
veloped.
Adapted for lowlands.
Short-Woolled Sheep.
Lighter carcasses.
Shorter wool.
Brown faces and shanks.
Finer mutton.
Fat, internal and better mixed with
the lean.
Adapted for highlands.
Age has a great deal to do with the quality of meat, as is well shown
by the expression “ four-year-old mutton.” This is considered the
age for producing the highest quality of dark-grained tender flesh,
but the exigencies of modern farming have rendered it necessary to
lower the age, and most mutton is now killed at from ten to sixteen
months old. In parks and demesnes it is still usual to hold back the
smaller wethers to grow slowly into mutton for the private table of
their wealthy owners.
Sex too is important. Wether mutton, or the flesh of the castrated
male, is in the highest repute, although scarcely superior to young
female mutton. Rams are always coarse in flesh and of inferior value
after six months old, and acquire a strong flavour. Ewe mutton is
also inferior, not on account of its age, which is generally only three
or four years, but because bearing and suckling lambs dries the flesh
and renders it less juicy and palatable.
Feeding exercises a very marked effect upon the meat. Turnips
and oil-cake develop fat to an undue degree, and impart a coarseness
not found in grass- or mountain-fed meat.
Iamb is always highly esteemed and commands a high price. It
should be milk-fed and fattened while with the dam. The fat of lambs
is never distasteful.
The best weight for carcasses is from 16 to 20 lb. per quarter, and
heavy mutton is always less saleable. Some of the most esteemed
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON LAMBS
551
mutton is from the smaller breeds, which only scale from 9 to 1 5 lb.
per quarter, and the legs only about 4 \ lb.
Foreign Mutton. — New Zealand Mutton and Canterbury Lamb 'are
now sold everywhere at prices much below English-grown meat. The
freezing process to which the carcasses are subjected does not improve
the quality of the meat, and there is a good deal more shrinkage in
cooking. There is some prejudice among many people against it,
which may be well-founded. It certainly is cheap, while the best
qualities of English mutton maintain their price. The effect upon
the price of second and third qualities of home-produced meat has
been more pronounced.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON LAMBS.
The lambing season in this country commences with the new year.
In all high-class flocks where rams are bred, and in all flocks where
the production of fat lamb is a principal object, lambing must be
early, and in some cases is well forward by Christmas. The natural
disposition is, no doubt, for ewes to produce young in the spring, but
in the artificial conditions in which domestic sheep are placed, some
breeds will lamb as early as September and October. Among these,
Dorset ewes are the best known, and are the source of the earliest
lamb which supplies the London market. Lambs are wonderfully
hardy, and upon the Wiltshire and Hampshire Downs are to be seen
playing around the lambing pens in large numbers in January and
February. For the first three weeks or so they require shelter from
bitter winds and driving snow, and this is easily provided by thatched
hurdles and ricks of straw or hay, conveniently placed to give the
necessary “ succour.” This in fact constitutes the “ lambing pen,”
which is a temporary erection of the nature indicated. It is often of
large size and divided into straw'-littered courts for the latest dropped
and the stronger lambs, according to age. The twin lambs require
more shelter and care than the robuster single lambs. When fat
lambs are the object, the ewes are liberally supplied with oil-cake
and corn, in order to stimulate the flow of milk, and at the earliest
possible age the lambs are encouraged to feed out of small troughs
upon finely-ground linseed cake and split peas or beans. They are
also allowed to run forward through lamb creeps, in order to crop the
turnip greens, early rye, and other succulent herbage. Everything is
done to develop flesh, and at this stage lambs will increase in weight
at the rate of 1 lb. per day. At ten or twelve weeks old such lambs
will weigh of dressed carcass about 10 to 12 lb. per quarter. Hamp-
shire Down lambs are well suited for the purpose of providing early
lamb, but several other breeds may be successfully employed for the
same purpose. On the south coast and in the Isle of Wight the raising
of fat lambs is a special industry, and the ewes are timed to drop their
552
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
lambs in September. In many cases the lambs are placed in houses,
and the ewes are allowed frequent access to the lambs, but do not
remain constantly with them. Lambs command a high price in the
early months of the new year, but as the season progresses they gradu-
ally approximate to mutton price, so that the great object of the
producer of fat lambs is to market his lambs as soon as possible.
In the early part of the season, however reared, lamb is, in London,
and indeed generally, sold in quarters, divided with 12 ribs to the fore-
quarter ; but, as the season advances, these are subdivided into two,
and the hind-quarter in the same manner ; the first consisting of the
shoulder and the neck and breast, the latter of the leg and the loin —
as shown in the cut illustrative of mutton. As lamb, from the juicy
nature of its flesh, is especially liable to spoil in unfavourable weather,
it should be frequently wiped, so as to remove any moisture which
may have formed on it.
Price of Meat. — In calculating the selling price of any meat, what
is called the “ offal,” i.e., the skin and inside, are calculated into the
price of the animal. The price of any commodity, and of meat dead
or alive, may be seen quoted every day in the newspaper market lists ;
and it would be well if consumers studied and understood these a little
better than is usually the case. Another fact they might learn with
advantage is the difference of price between the best meat and the
second or third quality. Very few persons eat always the best meat,
for the reason that it is not sufficiently plentiful, and perhaps even
fewer people pay second-best prices or expect to pay them.
As already pointed out, second quality meat does not necessarily
mean unwholesome meat, or indeed worse meat than most people
are contented with.
Season for Mutton. — Mutton is in season all the year round, different
counties producing sheep for the market at various seasons; but just
as beef is said to be in its prime when French beans are in, i.e., when
the pastures are greenest and freshest, so mutton is in best condition
when grass is plentiful, rather than when it is fattened entirely on
roots and cake.
Mutton is often thought more digestible than beef, and is therefore
prescribed for invalids, but a matter such as this must be decided by
individual idiosyncrasy rather than rule. It is always thought to
be less satisfying, and as it is impossible to buy a solid lump of boneless
mutton, it is no doubt, on that account also, less economical.
Relative Cost. — In reckoning the cost of various joints as compared
with one another, we have assumed that leg and loin are the same price,
and that 18 ozs. of either can be bought for a shilling, and that the
shoulder and best end of the neck are both sold at 20 ozs. (i£ lb.)
for a shilling. The loin has more bone than the leg, 3 ozs. instead
of 2-| ozs. in each shilling’s worth of meat, and the loin also is very fat,
so that although it is nice it is not cheap. The shoulder has the same
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON LAMBS
553
proportion of bone as the loin, and the neck most of all, 4 ozs. in every
shilling’s worth of meat, and is even fatter than the loin. Boiled or
roasted, the neck is not a very cheap joint ; but trimmed into cutlets,
with all the fat removed, it is probably the dearest butchers’ meat
that can be eaten.
Competition remains at length between 15! ozs. of leg against 17 ozs.
of shoulder. The shoulder is fatter, it is true, and if it is sold at the
same price as the leg, is dearer in every way. Sold at the price we
have quoted, it appears to be as cheap as, or cheaper than, the leg
if the fat is eaten. Children often dislike fat, and so it is cheaper
to pay a little more for a lean joint for children. On the other hand,
many people dislike a shoulder of mutton, and prefer a leg.
TABLE OF RELATIVE PRICES OF BEEF AND MUTTON.
At per Stone Wholesale, and per Pound Retail.
Price per
S.one.
Mutton.
Beef.
Third
Second
First
Third
Second
First
Quality.
Quality.
Quality.
Quality.
Quality.
Quality.
s.
d.
s.
d.
s.
d.
s.
d.
s.
d.
s.
d.
s.
d.
4
2
0
0
8J
0
9i
0
4f
0
7f
0
I Of"
4
4
O
6-1
0
81
0
9i
0
4t
0
7f
0
IO^
4
6
O
6J
0
8}
0
9 1
0
4f
0
7'i
O
ioj
4
8
O
7
0
9
0
IO
0
5
0
8
O
1 1
4
IO
O
7 1
O
9f
0
lof
0
5f
0
8\
0
T li
1 1 i
5
O
O
7f
0
9i
0
iof
0
5t
0
81
0
iif
5
2
O
7}
O
9 1
0
ioj
0
5l
O
4
0
ui
5
4
O
8
O
IO
0
IT
0
6
0
9
I
O
5
6
O
Si
0
10}
0
Ilf
0
6f
0
9f
1
of
5
8
0
Si
0
ioi
0
lit
0
6t
0
9 1
1
o.V
5
IO
O
8}
0
loj
0
11 i
0
4
0
9i
I
o.i
6
0
0
0
0
1 1
I
0
0
7
0
IO
I
1
6
2
O
9f
O
Ilf
I
of
0
7f
0
10}
1
if
6
4
O
9f
0
Tit
I
of
0
7*
0
IO:V
1
it
6
6
0
9i
O
III
I
0}
0
71
0
ioj
1
4
6
8
0
IO
1
O
I
I
0
8
0
I I
I
2
6
IO
O
10}
1
O}
I
If
0
8f
0
nf
I
2f
7
0
O
ioi
I
°i
I
It
0
8t
0
II j
1
2 h
7
2
O
roj
1
oj
I
4
0
4
0
uf
I
0 3
4
7
4
0
II
I
I
I
2
0
9
1
O
I
3
7
6
O
ill
1
if
I
2f
0
9f
1
o',
I
3i
7
8
0
ui
1
It
I
2\
0
9^
1
o.i
I
3-1
7
IO
O
11}
1
1 2
I
4
0
9 1
1
o’
1
^ a
0 4
S
0
1
O
1
2
I
3
0
IO
1
I
1
4
Tl^e prices of meat per pound, in relation to the market price per
stone of 8 lb., may be calculated sufficiently near to give a tolerably
554
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
correct idea what the buyer should pay for meat from different parts
of the ox or sheep, according to the market price. The butcher pays
a certain price per stone for the whole carcass ; but as the different
joints of the sheep or bullock differ considerably in quality, and are
classed respectively as prime, middling and inferior parts, the prices
of the several parts are raised or lowered by the butcher, above or
below the average market price per stone, so that all classes of pur-
chasers may be suited, and the sale of all parts of the animals secured.
Of course, the butcher takes care to regulate his prices so as to secure
a remunerative profit on his outlay. Prime parts of beef are sirloins,
ribs and rounds ; of mutton, legs and loins. Middling pieces of beef
are top ribs, back ribs, and silverside ; of mutton, shoulders. Inferior
pieces of beef are shins, brisket and flank, clod, or shoulder, sticking
piece, or neck ; of mutton, necks and breasts. The prices given in
the table are such as would be paid for meat of the best quality. The
table is constructed so as to range from 4s. 2d. to 8s. per stone inclusive
at an increase of 2d. per stone, or Jd. per pound on the wholesale
market prices.
The Mode of Slaughtering Sheep is, perhaps, as humane and expeditious
a process as could be adopted to attain the objects sought ; the animal
being laid on its side in a sort of concave stool, the butcher, while
pressing the body with his knee, transfixes the throat near the angle
of the jaw, passing the knife between the windpipe and bones of the
neck, thus dividing the jugulars, cartoids, and large vessels, death
taking place very rapidly from the haemorrhage which follows.
Manner of Cutting up. — Almost every large city has a particular
manner of cutting up, or, as it is called, dressing the carcass. In
London this process is very simple, and as our butchers have found
that much skewering back, doubling one part over another, or scoring
the inner cuticle or fell, tends to spoil the meat and shorten the time
it would otherwise keep, they avoid all such treatment. The sheep
then is hung up and the carcass flayed (which operation is performed
while yet warm). After separating the hind from the fore quarters,
with eleven ribs to the latter, the quarters are usually subdivided
in the manner shown in the accompanying illustration.
Hind-Quarter.
1 Leg.
2. Loin.
3. Chump end of loin.
7-
Fore-Quarter.
4. Best end of neck.
5. Scrag end of neck.
6 and 8. Shoulder and blade-bone.
Breast.
(1) Leg.— This is the most economical joint for a family if it is sold,
as is usual, at only one penny a pound more than the shoulder, for unless
there is a considerable difference in price, it does not compensate
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON SHEEP
555
for the greater proportion of bone in other joints. The leg of a sheep
is roughly reckoned to weigh as many pounds as the whole sheep
weighs in stones. Legs can be bought of all weights, from about
5 lb. to 6 lb. Mutton steaks are cut from the leg.
(2) Loin. — This is considered the best roasting joint. Two loins
together make a saddle ; rather a wasteful joint, because of the way
it is carved. The upper part of the loin and leg together form a haunch.
Chump chops are cut near the tail, where the proportion of bone is
greater.
(3) Chump end of Loin. — Cut with the loins for a saddle, always
roasted, or in chops for broiling.
(4) Best end of the Neck. — Roasting, boiling, or for mutton cutlets.
Small mutton is best for cutlets.
(5) Scrag end of the Neck. — Broth, stews, or boiling. A low-priccd
joint, not very fat, but very bony and wasteful.
(6 and 8) Shoulder. — Often sold divided, for roasting. It is pre-
ferred by many persons to the leg, but is not so economical, and is
fatter.
(7) Breast. — Often sold at a cheap rate for stewing or boiling. Too
fat for many persons, but often economical.
Besides these joints, the following parts of the sheep are sold for
food : — -
(9) Head. — Sometimes sold with the pluck, but more often alone. Can
be boiled, and made into most excellent broth — Scotch people generally
use it for this — or braised, and is usually an economical dish, but its
price varies very greatly.
(10) Heart. — Sometimes sold separately, and sometimes with the
rest of the “ pluck,” consisting of liver, lights and heart. Sheep’s
liver can be fried or made into soup. The heart is best roasted. The
whole of the pluck is frequently eaten. In Scotland it is made into
“ haggis.” Probably the cheapest form of butcher’s meat.
(11) Kidneys. — Broiled or stewed. A very common breakfast dish.
The kidney is often sold with the loin.
(12) Feet, or “ trotters,” as they are generally called in London,
where they are bought in the markets at 4 a penny, and after being
cleaned and boiled are retailed at a halfpenny and a penny each.
Seldom eaten in the south of England except by the very poor.
(13) Mutton suet is better than beef for frying, because it is less
likely to burn, but it is not so good for puddings.
Mode of Cutting up Lamb. — Lamb, when large, is cut into the same
joints as mutton ; when small, it is sold in quarters ; the leg and loin
to the hind, and the shoulder, breast and neck to the fore-quarter.
Lambs’ sweetbreads are considered a delicacy, and are expensive.
Lambs’ fry consists of the liver, sweetbread, some of the inside fat
or “ leaf,” and the heart.
Lamb’s kidney, lamb’s head and lamb’s trotters are also eaten.
556
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
The fore-quarter of lamb is, by many persons, preferred; but the leg,
here, as in mutton, is more economical. Howevex, few persons eat
lamb except as a luxury, and so questions of economy are more or
less out of place.
A good deal of lamb is now imported from New Zealand, and is
slightly cheaper than the home grown. The brand known as “ Canter-
bury ” is the best. Lamb is to be had in London from Christmas
until late autumn. It is dear and scarce from January to March, gets
cheaper through the summer months, from Easter to July or August ;
and late in the season, as far on as October, lamb is still sent southwards
from Scotland.
All young meat is less nourishing, and is said to be less digestible
than that which is full-grown ; but lamb has a better reputation in this
respect than veal.
Lamb should not be in the least high; and if, therefore, it has to be
kept, it should be partly cooked, such being the most certain way to
preserve it from taint.
TABLE OF THE RELATIVE VALUE OF VARIOUS PARTS OF
MUTTON.
Giving the Actual Cost of the Eatable Portions of the Various
Joints after deducting Loss in Weight from Waste and
Bone by Different Modes of Cooking.
Mutton will be seen to waste more in cooking than other meats.
Some of the larger joints are the cheapest, the saddle losing less than
the loin, while the leg is one of the most economical.
Name of Joint.
How usually
cooked.
Weight
before
cooking.
Weight
when
cooked,
bone and
waste
deducted.
Total
loss
per lb.
Average
cost
per lb.
Cost per lb.
after cook-
ing, bone
and waste
deducted.
lb.
oz.
lb. oz.
oz.
s. d.
s.
d.
Breast ....
Roasted
3
0
2
1
5
0 8
O
Ilf
Chump chop .
Grilled
o
12
0 8-j-
5
I
I
I
7
Haunch ....
Roasted
13
12
9
4
5 1
O II
I
4 1
Head
Stewed
2
8
1 4
8
0 5
O
IO
Heart ....
Baked
I
O
0 1 1
2
0 9
0
ioj
Kidneys ....
Grilled
O
12
0 9
3
I
2
1
Si
Leg
Boiled
IO
O
7 0
4i
0 IO
1
2
Leg • • • • •
Roasted
8
2
5
7
si
O IO
I
3
Loin
Roasted
5
13
4 0
5
O IO
1
A
,, (chop) .
Grilled
O
12
0 8 J
4
I
I
I
si
Neck (best end) .
Boiled
2
8
1 14
4
O IO
I
il
„ (scrag end)
Stewed
I
12
0 14
8
0 7
1
2
Saddle ....
Roasted
IO
4
7 12
3f
O IO
I
I
Shoulder
Roasted
7
I
4 0
y
0 9
I
4
Tongue ....
Boiled
I
5
0 14
.5
0 8
O
n|
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON SHEEP
557
Note. — For the purpose of the table the prices per lb. for head, heart,
kidneys and tongue is given. These parts are, however, nearly always sold
irrespective of weight, and the following are average prices : — Head, 8d. each ;
heart, 5d. (frozen), id. each ; kidneys, 4d. (frozen), id. each ; tongue, 4d. each.
By most butchers the shank-bone of a leg of mutton is weighed
with the joint, the result being an increase of weight without value,
but it is nevertheless an economical joint, as there is no waste in its
carving, whereas against a loin must be reckoned the loss of meat
left upon the bones, and that so often caused by an undue preponder-
ance of fat.
TABLE GIVING WEIGHT OF BONE, SKIN, AND WASTE IN
JOINTS OF MUTTON.
Wei
ght of
Weight of
Loss of
Total
Wei
ght of
Name of Joint.
joint when
bone, skin
weight by
weight of
eatable
bought.
and waste.
cooking.
waste.
matter.
lb.
oz.
lb. oz.
lb.
OZ.
lb.
oz.
lb.
OZ.
Haunch ....
13
12
1 8
3
0
4
8
9
4
Leg (boiled)
IO
O
i 6
I
IO
3
0
7
O
„ (roasted)
8
2
1 7
I
4
2
1 1
5
7
Loin
5
13
0 12
I
I
I
13
4
O
Saddle ....
IO
4
0 12
I
12
2
8
7
12
Shoulder ....
7
I
1 6
I
1 1
3
I
4
0
TABLE OF THE RELATIVE VALUE OF VARIOUS PARTS OF
LAMB.
Giving the Actual Cost of the Eatable Portions of the Differ-
ent Parts, after deducting Loss of W f.ight from Waste
and Bone, by Different Modes of Cooking.
Name of Joint.
How usually
cooked.
Weight
before
cooking.
Weight
when
cooked,
bone and
waste
deducted.
Total
loss
p?r lb.
Average
cost
per lb ,
uncooked
or raw.
Cost per lb.
after cook-
ing, bone
and waste
d ducted.
Breast ....
Stewed
lb. oz.
2 O
M p*
0
1
oz.
5
s. d.
O IO
s. d.
1 2\
Fore-quarter
Roasted
T I
O
7 12
4
I
O
1 5
Hind-quarter
Roasted .
9 0
7 4
3
I
I
I 4:1
* Leg . . . .
Roasted
4 8
2 12
5 1
I
I
1 Ok
Loin
Roasted
4
3
3 0
4i
I
0
1 42
Neck (in cutlets)
Fried
1 3
0 q 3
7
I
I
1 8
„ (scrag) .
Stewed
I
2
O IO
6
0 8
1 2}
Shoulder
Roasted .
4
5
2 I I
5-1
I
0
1 7
* The foot being generally weighed with the Leg of Lamb, makes this joint an expensive one.
*
558
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
TABLE GIVING WEIGHT OF BONE, SKIN, AND WASTE IN
JOINTS OF LAMB.
Name of J oint.
Weight of
joint when
bought.
Weight of
bone, skin
and waste.
Loss of
weight by
cooki ng.
Total
weight of
waste.
Weight of
eatable
matter.
lb.
oz.
lb. oz.
lb.
OZ.
lb.
oz.
lb.
OZ.
Breast ....
2
o
o 8
O
2
O
10
I
6
Fore-quarter
II
o
I o
2
4
3
4
7
12
Hind-quarter .
9
o
o 8
I
5
I
12
7
4
Loin .....
4
3
o 8
O
II
I
3
3
O
Leg
4
8
o 13
O
13
I
12
2
12
Neck (in cutlets)
I
3
0 6|
O
3
0
O
9^
„ (scrag) .
I
2
0 6A
O
ib
0
8
2
IO
Shoulder ....
4
5
0 13
O
13
I
IO
2
II
The prices given for lamb are those when it is in full season. In winter that called House Lamb
is considerably dearer, and sometimes even till after Easter the price of lamb continues high.
RECIPES
FOR COOKING LAMB
CHAPTER XVIII
948. — BREAST OF LAMB, MILANAISE STYLE.
(Fr. — Poitrine d’Agneau a la Milanaise.)
Ingredients. — A breast of lamb, a mirepoix of vegetables ( see
“ Shoulder of Lamb, Braised ”), stock, 6 ozs. of macaroni, 1 table-
spoonful of grated cheese, 1 or 2 tablespoonfuls of white sauce, \ an oz.
of butter, salt and pepper.
Method. — Prepare and cook the lamb as directed ( see “ Shoulder
of Lamb, Braised ”). Break the macaroni into 2-inch lengths, throw
it into boiling salted water, boil rapidly for 10 minutes, then drain
well. Replace in the stewpan, cover with hot stock, and cook gently
until tender, keeping the stewpan uncovered in order that the unab-
sorbed stock may evaporate, just before serving stir in the butter,
cheese and white sauce, and season to taste. Arrange neatly in the
centre of a hot dish, and place the meat on the top. Serve with
a suitable sauce or thickened gravy.
Time. — Altogether, about 2 hours. Average Cost, 8d. to iod. per lb.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons, according to size. Seasonable from April to
October.
949. — BREAST OF LAMB, TURKISH STYLE.
(Fr.— Poitrine d’Agneau a la Turque.)
Ingredients. — A breast of lamb £ of a lb. of sausage-meat, j of a
pint of demi-glace sauce or a mild curry sauce (see Sauces). For the
mirepoix, or foundation : £ of a pint of stock, 2 onions, 2 carrots,
\ a small turnip, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 6 pepper-
corns, 2 ozs. of butter. For the rice border : 6 ozs. of Patna rice, 1
large onion, \\ ozs. of butter, ij- pints of white stock, salt and pepper,
and, if liked, a pinch of saffron, may be added.
Method.— Remove the bones, flatten the meat with a cutlet-bat or
rolling-pin, season well with salt and pepper, spread on the sausagemeat,
roll up tightly, and bind securely with string. Slice the vegetables,
059
560
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
and put them into a large stewpan with the butter, place the meat
on the top, cover, and cook gently for about 20 minutes, then add the
herbs, peppercorns, and stock to nearly cover the vegetables. Place a
buttered paper over the meat, put on the lid, and braise for 2 hours.
Heat ij- ozs. of butter in a stewpan, add to it the onion finely-
chopped, and fry for about 15 minutes without browning. Wash
and blanch the rice, drain well, then add it, together with the stock,
to the onions, season to taste, cover with a buttered paper and the lid,
and simmer gently until the rice is tender and dry. Place the meat
in a hot dish, pour the denri-glace or curry-sauce over, arrange the rice
in the form of a border, and serve.
Time. — 2\ hours, to cook the meat. Average Cost, 8d. to iod. per lb.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
The Lamb as a Sacrifice. — Lambs were used in considerable numbers by the Hebrews in the
sacrifices. Two lambs “ of the first year ” were appointed to be daily offered at the morning and
evening sacrifice, and a lamb served as a substitute for the firstborn of unclean animals, as the ass,
which could not be accepted as an offering to the Lord. On the anniversary of the Passover, one
of the three great annual festivals of the Israelites, celebrated from the 14th to the 21st of the month
Nisan, to commemorate the deliverance of the Hebrews from the bondage of Egypt, every family
was ordered to sacrifice a lamb or kid, a male of the first year without blemish, and to sprinkle some
of its blood with hyssop upon the two side posts and the lintel of the door of the house. The lamb
was eaten roasted, with unleavened bread, and bitter herbs, and in haste, with the loins girded, shoes
on the feet, and a staff in the hand ; whatever remained over until the morning was burned. The
sheep was also used in the numerous special, individual, and national sacrifices ordered by the Mosaic
law. On extraordinary occasions vast numbers of sheep were sacrificed as an offering. Solomon,
on the completion of the Temple, offered “ sheep and oxen that could not be numbered for multi-
tude.”
950. — BREAST OF LAMB, STUFFED. (Fr.-Poitrine
d’Agneau Farcie.)
Ingredients. — A breast of lamb, mirepoix as in preceding recipe,
1 of a pint of brown or demi-glace sauce, veal forcemeat ( see Force-
meats), French beans, i oz. of butter, salt and pepper, glaze.
Method. — Proceed as directed in the preceding recipe, substituting
veal forcemeat for the sausage-meat. Cook the beans in salted
water, and drain them well. Melt the butter in a stewpan, put in the
beans, season with salt and pepper, toss over the fire for a few minutes
and serve them arranged in small groups round the dish. Before
serving, brush the meat over with glaze, and send the sauce to table
in a sauce-boat.
Time. — 2} hours, to cook the meat. Average Cost, 8d. to iod. per lb.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
951. — BLANQUETTE OF LAMB. (Fr. — Blanquette
d’Agneau.)
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of loin, neck or breast of lamb, 1 onion sliced,
a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 6 white peppercorns.
For the sauce : -t a pint of stock, 1^ ozs. of butter, ioz. of flour, 2 yolks
of eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, salt and pepper.
i — Pigeon Pie. 2 — Raised Game Pie.
Chicken. 6 — Plovers’ Eggs.
10 — Boned Capon.
3 — Cutlets and Peas. 4 — Prawns en Bouquet. 5 — Creme
7— Lamb Cutlets. 8— Larks Farcie. o-Piped Ham.
COLD COLLATION DISHES.
RECIPES FOR COOKING LAMB
56i
Method. — Cut the meat into pieces about 2 inches square, and put them
into a stewpan with the onion, herbs, peppercorns and a little salt.
Cover with cold water, and cook gently for 2 hours. Melt the butter,
add the flour, stir, and cook for a few minutes without browning.
When the meat is ready, strain from it \ a pint of the liquor, and add
it to the blended flour and butter. Stir until boiling, simmer for 3 or
4 minutes, then add the yolks of eggs and cream, previously beaten
together. Stir and cook gently for a few minutes, taking care that it
does not boil, or it may curdle. Arrange the meat neatly on a hot
dish, strain the sauce over, and serve.
Time. — About 2| hours. Average Cost, from 8d. to is. 2d. per lb.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable from April to October.
952. — CHARTREUSE A LA GASTRONOME.
Ingredients. — 1 or 2 breasts of lamb, boned and braised (see “ Shoulder
of Lamb, Braised ”), braised lettuce-stalks, l- a pint of demi-glace sauce
No. 242, stock, salt and pepper.
Method. — Braise the lamb as directed, and at the same time cook
the lettuce-stalks. Cut the lamb into strips, arrange alternately with
layers of lettuce in a plain cylindrical mould, adding a little good
stock and a seasoning of salt and pepper. Cook gently for i£ hours in
the bain-marie, then unmould carefully, and serve with a little of the
sauce poured round, and the remainder sent to table in a sauce-boat.
Time. — About 1 | hours after braising. Average Cost, 8d. to rod. per
lb. Sufficient for 1 large mould. Seasonable all the year.
953. — CHAUD-FROID OF LAMB CUTLETS.
(Fr. — Chaud-Froid de Cotelettes d’Agneau.)
Ingredients. — The best end of a neck of lamb (braised as directed
in No. 989), i- a pint of aspic jelly (see jellies) 4 leaves of French gela-
tine, 1 gill of Bechamel sauce, } a gill of tomato sauce (see Sauces),
-t a gill of cream, salad, salt and pepper.
Method. -When the lamb is quite cold divide it into cutlets, and trim
them into a neat uniform shape. Dissolve the gelatine in a table-
spoonful of water, add it to the hot white sauce, add also lather more
than j the aspic jelly, and divide the mixture into 2 equal portions.
To the one add the cream, and to the other the tomato sauce, season
to taste, and while hot pass the mixtures separately through a tammy-
cloth. Coat half the cutlets with the white sauce and the remainder
with the red. When the sauce is set pour over the cutlets the re-
mainder of the aspic jelly, which must be nearly cold at the time.
Dish in a circle, placing the colours alternately, and fill the centre with
dressed salad.
Time.— About ii hours. Average Ccst, 4s. Allow 9 or 10 cutlets
for 7 or 8 persons.
562 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
954.— COLD LAMB CUTLETS. (Fr.— Cotelettes d’Ag-
neau a la Gelee.)
There are various ways of preparing this dish. The cutlets may be
cooked in butter (sauteed or grilled) or braised and pressed. The
former method is no doubt more simple, although braising is highly
recommended on account of the fine flavour imparted to the meat by
this method of cooking. The cutlets must be carefully pared, trimmed
and flattened before they are cooked, and when cooked they must
be pressed beneath a heavy weight, and kept thus until they are
quite cold. To finish them, proceed as follows : —
Pour a layer of aspic jelly in a saute-pan, or large dish, ; when set
arrange the cutlets in it, cover with another layer of aspic jelly, and let
this also set. Place the pan or dish on the ice for about 1 hour, then
cut the cutlets out with a sharp knife, and arrange them in a circle
on a round dish. Fill the centre of the dish with some kind of
cooked vegetables — peas, beans, asparagus points, or macedoine —
previously seasoned with mayonnaise or French salad dressing, and
garnish with neatly cut cubes of set aspic jelly, and serve.
Average Cost, is. to is. 2d. per lb. Allow 9 or 10 cutlets for 6 or
7 persons.
955-— CROQUETTES OF LAMB. (Fr.— Croquettes
d’Agneau.)
Ingredients. — a lb. of finely-chopped cooked lamb, 1 teaspoonful of
finely-chopped parsley, £ of a teaspoonful of finely-chopped shallot or
onion, -J- an oz. of butter, f of an oz. of flour, of a pint of strong stock,
salt and pepper, 1 egg, breadcrumbs, frying-fat.
Method — Melt the butter in a stewpan, fry the onion lightly, then
stir in first the flour and afterwards the stock, and boil gently for 3 or 4
minutes, stirring briskly meanwhile. Add the meat, parsley, and a
good seasoning of salt and pepper, stir over the fire until well mixed,
and turn on to a plate to cool. Form into cork-shaped pieces, coat
carefully with egg and breadcrumbs, and fry in hot fat. ( See
“ Croquettes of Beef,” also “ Notes on Frying,” p. 433.)
Time. — To fry, 4 to 5 minutes. Average Cost, 5d., exclusive of the
meat. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable from April to October.
956.— CUTLETS, LARDED. (Fr.— Cotelettes d’Ag-
neau Piquees.)
Ingredients. — 2 or 3 lb. of neck of lamb, larding bacon, stock, 1 onion
sliced, 2 carrots sliced, ■} a turnip sliced, a bouquet-garni (parsley,
thyme, bay-leaf), 6 peppercorns, salt and pepper, \ a pint of tomato or
brown sauce ( see “ Sauces ”), glaze, mashed potato.
Method. — Trim the cutlets into a good shape ( see “ I.amb Cutlets, to
RECIPES FOR COOKING LAMB
563
prepare ”), and lard one side closely with fine lardoons (see No. 989).
Place the vegetables in a stewpan, lay the cutlets on the top, add the
p:ppercorns, and stock to nearly cover the vegetables. Sprinkle
liberally with salt and pepper, cover lightly with a greased paper, and
put on the lid. Cook gently for 1 hour, basting frequently, and adding
more stock as that in the stewpan boils away. Place the cutlets
on a tin in a hot oven for a few minutes to crisp the bacon, brush them
over with the reduced gravy, and arrange them neatly on a border of
mashed potato. Serve the sauce separately.
Time. — About 1 \ hours. Average Cost, nd. to is. 2d. per lb. Suffi-
cient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable, April to October.
957. — EPIGRAMS OF LAMB. ( Fr . — Epigrammes
d’Agneau a la Soubise.)
Ingredients. — 1 breast of lamb, 2 quarts of stock, 1 onion, 1 carrot,
\ a small turnip, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, -bay-leaf), 1 egg,
breadcrumbs, salt and pepper, frying-fat, Soubise sauce, Allemande
sauce ( see Sauces).
Method. — Trim the breast of lamb, cut it in two, and blanch it.
Bring the stock to boiling point, put in the meat, boil rapidly for a few
minutes, then add the vegetables cut into thick slices, the bouquet-
garni, salt to taste, and cook gently tor about 1 hour, or until the meat
is tender. Remove the bones, press the meat between 2 dishes until
cold, then trim off all the skin and gristle, and cut the meat into pieces
convenient for serving. Have ready the Allemande sauce, which
must be very thick and nearly cold ; season the epigrammes, or lamb
entrees, with salt and pepper, dip them into the sauce, and if not
completely coated, repeat the operation. When the sauce is set and
firm, dip the epigrammes into beaten egg, coat them carefully with
fine breadcrumbs, and fry in hot fat until they acquire a golden-brown
colour. Drain well, and arrange in the form of a circle on a hot dish,
and serve the Soubise sauce in the centre.
Time. — 3 hours. Average Cost, 8d. to iod. per lb. Sufficient for 6 or 7
persons.
958. - LAMB BOILED. ( Fr . — Agneau bouilli.)
The leg of lamb is the part usually selected for boiling, but this
method of cooking is not often adopted. Careful and frequent skim-
ming is essential to preserve the colour of the meat, and the liquor
in which it is cooked must contain nothing to destroy or overpower
its delicate flavour. The peas, carrots, or whatever is served as a
garnish, should be cooked separately, and the meat masked with a good
white or Bechamel sauce.
959. — LAMBS’ COLLOPS AND ASPARAGUS. *
Ingredients. — Slices of underdone lamb, 30 asparagus, l l- ozs. of butter.
564
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
£ an oz. of flour. For the seasoning: 1 tablespoonful of flour, £ of a
teaspoonful of powdered mixed herbs, 4 of a teaspoonful of salt, £ of a
teaspoonful of pepper, a pinch of finely-grated lemon-rind, £ a pint of
gravy, stock or water.
Method. — Cut the meat into fillets about 2\ inches in diameter,
sprinkle both sides with seasoning, and put aside for 1 hour. Cut
the tips of the asparagus about 2 inches long, and boil them in salted
water until tender, the stems being put aside to be afterwards used for
soup. Heat the butter in a frying-pan, cook the collops quickly until
lightly browned on both sides, then remove and keep them hot.
Sprinkle the flour on the bottom of the pan, cook until well-browned,
and add the gravy or stock. Season to taste, boil rapidly for about 5
minutes, then strain. Arrange the collops in a close circle on a hot
dish, place the asparagus tips in the centre, and pour the sauce round.
Time. — i£ hours. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. to 4s. 6d. Sufficient, allow
1 lb. of meat for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable from March to July.
960. -LAMB CUTLETS, TO PREPARE.
Method. — Take the best end of a neck of lamb, remove the chine
bone, and saw the rib bones across, reducing the length to 3! or 4
inches, according to the size of the fillet, or lean portion of the meat.
Trim off the greater part of the fat, and scrape the end of the bone,
leaving about £ of an inch quite bare. A more even surface and a better
shape may be obtained by flattening the cutlets with a wetted cutlet-
bat or chopping-knife. The cutlets may be plainly grilled or fried,
coated with egg and breadcrumbs, and fried or braised and glazed.
The most suitable vegetable accompaniments are asparagus, green
peas, and spinach ; and an almost infinite number of sauces may be
served with the cutlets, and allowed to give their name to the dish
when it is a simple one. For example, plainly grilled or fried cutlets
may be served with tomato or Madeira sauce, and termed respectively,
Cotelettes d’Agneau d la Tomate, and Cotelettes d’Agneau a la Madere.
961. — LAMB CUTLETS, GRILLED. {Ft.— Cotelettes
d’Agneau Grillees.)
Ingredients. — 9 or 10 cutlets cut from the best end of the neck, \ a
pint of shelled peas, \ of a pint of good gravy or demi-glace sauce ( see
Sauces), salt and pepper, salad-oil.
Method. — Trim the cutlets into a good shape, brush over with salad-
oil, then grill them over or in front of a clear fire for about 8 or 10
minutes, turning them 3 or 4 times. Season the cutlets lightly with
salt and pepper, cover the end of each bone with a cutlet-frill, arrange
neatly in a circle on a border of mashed potato, serve the peas in the
centre and pour the hot sauce round.
Time. — 30 minutes, altogether. Average Cost, is. to is. 2d. per lb.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
RECIPES FOR COOKING LAMB
565
962. — LAMB CUTLETS, MALMAISON STYLE.
{Fr. — Cotelettes d’Agneau a la Malmaison.)
Ingredients. — 9 or 10 cutlets cut from the best end of the neck, ^ of a
pint of demi-glace sauce ( see Sauces), 4 or 5 small stuffed tomatoes,
(see Vegetables), lentil, green pea and potato purees, 1 egg, bread-
crumbs, 2 ozs. of butter, salt and pepper.
Method. — Trim the cutlets into a good shape, season them with salt
and pepper, and coat them with egg and breadcrumbs. Rub the cooked
vegetables through a fine sieve, season to taste, bind with a little yolk
of egg, press into small dariol moulds, and keep hot until required.
Prepare and bake the tomatoes, also a border of mashed potato, which
must be brushed over with yolk of egg and browned in the oven. Heat
the butter in a saute-pan, fry the cutlets until lightly browned, and
drain well. Arrange them in a close circle on the potato border,
garnish with the tomatoes and small timbales of vegetables, and serve
the hot sauce in a sauce-boat.
Time. — To lry the cutlets, from 7 to 10 minutes. Average Cost, is.
to is. 2d. per lb. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
963. — LAMB CUTLETS, MILANESE STYLE.
( Fr . — Cotelettes d’Agneau a la Milanaise.)
Ingredients. — 8 or 9 lamb cutlets, I of a pint of demi-glace sauce,
\ a lb. of Patna rice, f of a pint of white stock, J of a pint of tomato -
pulp (made by rubbing raw tomatoes through a fine sieve), 2 ozs. of
butter, 1 oz. of grated Parmesan cheese, \ a teaspoonful of finely-
chopped parsley, salad-oil, salt and pepper.
Method. — Wash and blanch the rice, and drain it well. Replace
it in the stewpan, add the butter, tomato-pulp, salt and pepper, put
in the stock, cover with a buttered paper and the stewpan-lid, and cook
slowly for about 1 hour, or until the rice is tender and dry. Brush
the cutlets over with salad oil, grill them over or in front of a clear fire
for 8 or 10 minutes, turning them 3 or 4 times, and before serving
season them with salt and pepper. Add the grated cheese to the rice,
season to taste, and arrange it in the form of a pyramid in the centre
of a hot dish. Sprinkle the top of it with parsley, dish the cutlets
neatly overlapping each other round the base, and pour the hot demi-
glace sauce round.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, is. to is. 2d. per lb. Sufficient
for 7 or 8 persons.
964. — LAMB CUTLETS, RICHELIEU STYLE.
{Fr. — Cotelettes d’Agneau a la Richelieu.)
Ingredients. — 9 or 10 lamb cutlets, 2\ ozs. of butter, 6 or 7 small
stuffed tomatoes (see Vegetables), 6 or 7 artichoke bottoms, j a pint of
566
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
cooked asparagus-points, i truffle, | of a pint of demi-glace sauce,
salt and pepper.
Method. — When tinned artichoke bottoms are used, warm them in a
little of their own liquor. Prepare and cook the asparagus-points,
and, when ready to use, season and toss them over the fire in \ an oz.
of hot butter. Prepare and bake the tomatoes. Trim the cutlets
into a good shape, heat 2 ozs. of butter in a saute-pan, put in the cutlets,
and fry them quickly until nicely browned. Place a cutlet-frill on
each bone, arrange neatly in a circle on a border of mashed potato,
and pile the tomatoes in the centre. Fill the artichoke bottoms with
the asparagus points, sprinkle a little chopped truffle on each, and place
them at regular intervals round the base of the dish. Have ready the
hot demi-glace sauce, pour it round the dish, and serve.
Time. — To cook the cutlets, from 7 to 10 minutes. Average Cost,
from is. to is. 2d. per lb. Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.
965. — LAMB CUTLETS WITH CUCUMBER.
(Fr. — Cotelettes d’Agneau au Concombre.)
Ingredients. — 8 or 9 cutlets from the best end of the neck, or 6 or 7
chops from the loin, 1 large or 2 small cucumbers, 3 ozs. of butter,
| of a pint of gravy, 1 egg, breadcrumbs, salt and pepper, butter or
clarified fat for frying the cutlets.
Method. — Peel the cucumber, remove the seeds, and cut it into \
inch dice. Heat the butter in a stewpan, put in the cucumber, season
well with salt and pepper, cover closely, and let it cook very gently
in the butter for nearly \ an hour, or until the pieces are tender but
unbroken, then drain well. Trim the cutlets into a good shape, sprinkle
both sides of them with salt and pepper, dip them in egg, crumb them,
and then fry in hot butter or fat in a saute- or frying-pan until lightly
browned on both sides. Arrange the cutlets neatly on a thin potato
border, serve the cucumber in the centre, and pour the hot sauce round.
Time. — To cook the cutlets, from 8 to 10 minutes. Average Cost,
is. to is. 2d. per lb. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
966. — LAMB CUTLETS AND SPINACH. {Fr.— Cote-
lettes d’Agneau aux Epinards.)
Ingredients. — 8 or 10 cutlets, f of a pint of spinach puree (see Vege-
tables) 1 oz. of butter, 1 egg, breadcrumbs, salt and pepper, } of a pint of
gravy, tomato or any other sauce preferred.
Method. — Trim the cutlets ( see “ Lamb Cutlets, To Prepare ” ).
Brush them over with beaten egg seasoned liberally with salt and pepper,
and coat with breadcrumbs. Prepare the spinach puree as directed,
and keep it hot until required. Heat the butter in a saute- or frying-
pan, fry the cutlets quickly’ until lightly browned on both sides, and
drain them free from fat. Arrange in a close circle on a hot dish, pile
the puree in the centre, and pour the sauce round.
RECIPES FOR COOKING LAMB 567
Time. — To fry, 5 or 6 minutes. Average Cost, is. to is. 2d. per lb.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable from April to October.
Note. — Peas, asparagus, beans or dressed potatoes may be substituted
for the spinach.
967. — LAMB CUTLETS STEWED WITH TOMATOES.
(Fr. — Cotelettes d’Agneau, aux Tomates.)
Ingredients. — 8 or 9 lamb cutlets, 4 tomatoes, 1 oz. of butter, 1
finely-chopped shallot or small onion, stock or water, salt and pepper.
Method. — -Trim the cutlets ( see “ Lamb Cutlets, to Prepare and
cut the tomatoes into thick slices. Heat the butter in a saute-pan
or shallow stewpan, fry the cutlets quickly until lightly browned on
both sides, then add the shallot to blend, then add the tomatoes, and
season with salt and pepper. Cover closely, and cook very slowly for
1} hours, adding a very small quantity of stock or water from time to
time, if necessary, but when the tomatoes are juicy none will be
needed. When ready, remove the cutlets and keep them hot, pass
the tomatoes through a fine sieve, season to taste, and if more sauce
is liked add a little stock and thicken with cornflour. Arrange the
cutlets in a close circle on a hot dish, pour the sauce round, and serve.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, nd. to is. 2d. per lb. Suffi-
cient for 6 or 7 persons. Siasonable from April to October.
968. — LAMB, FRICASSEE OF. (Fr.— Fricassee d’Ag-
neau.)
Ingredients. — A breast of lamb, 2 ozs. of butter, 1 small onion, 2
bay-leaves, 2 cloves, 1 blade of mace, 6 peppercorns, 1 pint of boiling
stock or water, 1 oz. of flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of capers coarsely-
chopped, salt and pepper.
Method. — Trim the meat, and cut into 2-inch squares. Heat the
butter in a stewpan, put in the onion sliced, bay-leaves, cloves, mace,
peppercorns, a saltspoonful of pepper, salt and the meat, cover, and cook
very gently for \ an hour, stirring occasionally. Now add the boiling
stock or water and salt to taste, and simmer gently for 1 hour longer,
20 minutes before serving, mix the flour smoothly with a very small
quantity of cold water, and add to it gradually about \ pint of the liquor
from the stewpan, stirring all the time. Bring the contents of the
stewpan to boiling point, pour in the thickened liquor, boil for 2 or 3
minutes, then simmer until the meat is sufficiently cooked. When
ready, arrange the pieces of meat inside a border of mashed potato,
or otherwise, as may be preferred, season the sauce, add to it the
capers to taste, and pour over the meat.
Time. — About i£ hours. Average Cost, iod. per lb. Sufficient for
3 or 4 persons.
568
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
969. — LAMB’S FRY. ( Fr . — Fricot d’Agneau.)
Ingredients. — i-\ lb. of fry. For the batter : 1 level dessertspoonful
of flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of water, 1 egg, salt and pepper, 2 or 3 ozs.
of clarified fat or dripping, 1 tablespoonful of flour, about | a pint
of hot water.
Method. — Wash the fry, put it into a stewpan with sufficient cold
water to just cover it, bring to the boil, cook for 2 or 3 minutes, then
drain and dry well. Mix the flour, 1 saltspoonful of salt, and \ the
quantity of pepper into a smooth batter with the ? tablespoonfuls
of cold water, and add to it the egg, previously beaten. Heat the clari-
fied fat in a frying-pan ; dip the pieces of fry in the batter, and fry
them gently until nicely browned on both sides, but take care
not to overcook the liver. Have ready a very hot dish on which to
put the fry, and keep it as hot as possible while the gravy is being
made. The fat in the pan may be used for this purpose, or, if pre-
ferred, it can be poured away, and 1 oz. of butter used instead. Stir
the flour into the fat, and when brown pour in the hot water, stir and
boil for five minutes, season to taste, and either strain it round the
dish or serve it separately in a sauce-boat.
Time. — To cook, about 15 or 20 minutes. Average Cost, iod. to is.
per lb. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
Note. — If preferred, the fry may be coated with egg and breadcrumbs,
instead of the batter, before frying.
970. — LAMB’S FRY. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — \ \ lb. of fry, a few thin slices of bacon, 3 ozs. of butter,
1 oz. of flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of cooked macaroni or spaghetti (small
sized macaroni), 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, 1 teaspoonful of finely-
chopped parsley, 1 egg, breadcrumbs, salt and pepper, 1 small onion,
1 small carrot, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf).
Method. — Wash the fry, put it into a stewpan with the onion and
carrot cut into thin slices, the bouquet-garni and cold water to cover,
bring gently to the boil, and simmer slowly for about 1 hour. Turn
both meat and gravy into a basin, and, when cold, strain off the
gravy and divide the meat into 2 portions. Cut one half into
rather thin slices, season them with salt and pepper, coat them with
egg and breadcrumbs, and put the slices aside until wanted. Cut the
remainder of the meat into small dice, and also cut the macaroni or
spaghetti into very small pieces. Melt 1 oz. of butter in a stewpan,
add the flour, cook and stir for 3 or 4 minutes, pour in the strainad
liquor, and stir until boiling. Season to taste, put in the meat,
macaroni and parsley, cover, and let the stewpan stand where the
contents will keep hot without boiling. Divide the bacon into small
pieces, roll them, put them on a skewer, and grill or bake them in
RECIPES FOR COOKING LAMB
569
the oven until crisp. Heat the remaining 2 ozs. of butter in a saute-
or frying-pan, put in the prepared slices of fry, and cook them quickly
until both sides are lightly browned, then drain well. The preparation
in the stewpan should have a consistency sufficient to allow it to be
piled in the centre of a dish. Serve the fried slices of fry round the
base, and garnish with the bacon. When a more liquid sauce is
preferred, dish the slices of fry on a potato border, and serve the sauce
in the centre.
Time. — to 2 hours. Average Cost, lod. to is. per lb. Sufficient for
about 4 persons.
971. — LAMB’S HEAD AND PLUCK. (Fr- Tete
d’Agneau.)
Ingredients. — A lamb’s head and pluck (which consists of the heart,
liver, and lungs or lights), 2 ozs. of butter, \\ ozs.of flour, 1 large onion,
1 carrot, \ a small turnip, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf),
6 peppercorns, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, salt and pepper,
1 egg, browned breadcrumbs.
Method. — Wash the head well, put it into a stewpan, cover it with
cold water, and bring to the boil, strain, scrape off the hairs, if any,
and rinse well. Wash the pluck in cold water, and put it into the
stewpan with the head, cover with cold water, and when boiling skim
well. When all the scum has been removed, put in the sliced vege-
tables, the bouquet-garni, peppercorns and \ a teaspoonful of salt,
and simmer gently for about 1 hour. Divide the head, take out the
tongue and brains, and keep the head hot over a saucepan of boiling
water. Skin the tongue, cut it into dice, chop the btains coarsely,
and cut the pluck into small pieces. Meanwhile, the liquor in the pan
must have been allowed to boil rapidly to reduce, and before using it for
the sauce it must be strained and well skimmed. Melt the butter in a
stewpan, add the flour, and cookfor five minutes. Pour in ij pints of
the liquor, and stir until it boils, then put in the pluck, tongue and brains,
add the parsley, and season to taste, cover closely, re-heat, and keep hot
until required. Coat the head with beaten egg and browned bread-
crumbs, bake it in a moderate oven for 10 to 15 minutes, basting
frequently with hot fat, then drain well. Place the head in the centre
of a hot dish, pour the mince round, and serve.
Time. — From i-J to 2 hours. Average Cost, from 2s. to 2s. 6d. Suffi-
cient for 5 or 6 persons.
972. — LAMB PIE. (Fr. — Pate d’Agneau.)
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of loin, neck, or breast of lamb, 1 or 2 lambs’ or
sheep’s kidneys thinly-sliced, stock or water, salt and pepper, short
crust or puff paste.
570
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Free the meat from fat and bones, and boil the latter
down for gravy. Cut the meat into pieces convenient for serving,
place them in a piedish, sprinkling each layer with salt and pepper,
and add a few slices of kidney. Half fill the dish with stock or
water, cover with paste ( see “ Veal Pie ”), and bake in a moderate
oven for about \\ hours. Strain and season the stock made from the
bones, and pour it into the pie just before serving.
Time. — About i-§- hours. Average Cost, 23. 6d. to 33. Sufficient for 5
or 6 persons. Seasonable from April to October.
973. — LAMB, STEWED. (Fr„ — Ragout d’Agneau.)
Ingredients. — 3 or 4 lb. of loin, neck or breast of lamb, 2 ozs. of butter,
the juice of \ a lemon, 6 mint leaves, J of a teaspoonful of pepper,
a pint of Soubise sauce ( see Sauces).
Method. — Saw the long bones across, and either skewer or bind the
meat into a compact form. Heat the butter in a large stewpan, add
the pepper, mint, and lemon-juice, put in the meat, cover closely,
and cook very gently for about an hour, turning the meat 2 or 3 times,
in order to brown the entire surface. Serve the Soubise sauce separ-
ately ; or, instead of this sauce, add \ of a pint of stock mixed with
1 dessertspoonful of flour to the butter, etc., in the stewpan, boil for
2 or 3 minutes, season to taste, improve the colour if necessary by
adding a few drops of liquid caramel. Dish up and serve hot.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, iod. to is. 2d. per lb. Suffi-
cient for 7 or 8 persons.
974. — LAMB, STEWED. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 2 or 3 lb. of loin, neck or breast of lamb, 2 ozs. of butter,
1 oz. of flour, 1 small onion, 1 small carrot, a bouquet-garni (parsley,
thyme, bay-leaf), 6 peppercorns, a sprig of mint, 1 pint of shelled
peas, salt and pepper, stock.
Method. — Trim the meat and cut it into pieces convenient for serving.
Heat the butter in a stewpan, put in the vegetables (cut into dice),
herbs, peppercorns, and mint (tied in muslin), and the meat, cover
closely, and cook gently for about 30 minutes, turning the meat 2 or
3 times. When lightly browned, add boiling stock or water to cover
the meat, put on the lid, and simmer very gently for about an hour.
\ an hour before serving, boil up and put in the peas a few at a time,
so that the temperature is not much reduced below boiling point.
About 15 minutes before serving mix the flour smoothly with a very
small quantity of cold water, then add to it gradually about \ a pint
of the strained liquor from the stewpan, stirring all the time. Pour
the thickened liquor back into the stewpan, and stir gently for a few
RECIPES FOR COOKING LAMB
57i
minutes. When both meat and peas are tender, remove the herbs,
season to taste, and serve the stew in a deep dish.
Time. — 2 to 2-} hours. Average Cost, iod. to is. 2d. per lb. Sufficient
for 5 or 6 persons.
975. — LAMBS’ SWEETBREADS IN CASES.
(Fr. — Ris d’Agneau en Caisses.)
Ingredients. — if- lb. of lambs’ sweetbreads, \ a pint of Bechamel
sauce ( see “ Sauces ”), stock, cooked green peas, or a few tablespoonfuls
of spinach puree, a little finely-chopped truffle, salt and pepper.
Method. — Soak and blanch the sweetbreads (see recipes for dressing
veal sweetbreads), then drain well and cover with well-flavoured white
stock. Cook gently for 1 hour, or until tender, and drain from the
stock. Make the sauce as directed, and season to taste. Place a
layer of peas or spinach puree at the bottom of 8 or 9 oval china cases,
add a portion of sweetbread and a little sauce. Sprinkle lightly with
truffle, and serve hot.
Time. — About 1^ hours. Average Cost, is. gd. to 2s. 3d per lb.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable, all the year.
976. — LAMB SWEETBREADS, BOURGEOISE STYLE.
(Fr. — Ris d’Agneau a la Bourgeoise.)
Ingredients.— 1 £ lb. of lambs’ sweetbreads, + a pint of brown sauce,
stock, 1 oz. of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of cooked peas, 2 tablespoonfuls
of cooked carrot, 2 tablespoonfuls of cooked turnip, salt and pepper.
Method. — Soak and blanch the sweetbreads ( see recipes for dressing
veal sweetbreads), and drain and dry them well. Melt the butter in a
stewpan, toss the sweetbreads in it until lightly cooked, then barely
cover them with good stock. Season to taste, cook very gently for
1 hour, and drain and dry thoroughly. Make the sauce as directed
( see No. 233), season to taste, and keep hot until required. Mean-
while boil the turnip, carrot (cut into rounds rather smaller than a
marble), and the peas separately until tender, but pot broken, and add
them to the sauce. Place the sweetbread in casseroles or china cases,
mix with them the sauce and vegetables, cook on the stove or in a
moderate oven for 10 or 15 minutes, then serve.
Time. — Altogether, about 2 hours. Average Cost, 2s. 3d. to 33.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable, all the year.
977. — LAMBS’ SWEETBREADS, CROUSTADES OF.
(Fr. — Ris d’Agneau en Croustade.)
Ingredients. — l-J- lb. of Iambi’ sweetbreads, £ a pint of Bechamel
sauce (see “ Sauces ”), stock, cooked green peas or a little spinach
57- HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
puree, finely-chopped truffle, salt and pepper, rough puff or puff
paste.
Method. — Prepare the sweetbreads as directed in the preceding
recipe. Have ready 8 or 9 oval or round, crisplv-baked pastry cases,
fill them with sweetbread, cover with sauce, and sprinkle lightly with
truffle. Serve hot.
Time. — To cook the sweetbreads, about hours. Average Cost,
is. qd. to 2s. 3d. per lb. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable
all the year.
978. — LAMBS’ SWEETBREADS, FRIED. (Fr.— Ris
d’Agneau Frit.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of lambs’ sweetbreads, of a pint of gravy, tomato
sauce, or any other sauce preferred, 1 egg, breadcrumbs, butter or
frying-fat, flour, salt and pepper.
Method. — Soak the sweetbreads in water for 2 hours, changing the
water 3 or 4 times, then drain well, and place in a stewpan containing
just sufficient cold water to cover them. Add a little salt, bring to
the boil, cook gently for 1 5 minutes, then press between 2 dishes until
cold. Roll lightly in a little flour seasoned with salt and pepper, coat
carefully with egg and breadcrumbs, and fry in hot butter or fat until
lightly browned. Serve the gravy or sauce separately.
Time. — To fry, 6 or 8 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. to 2s. 6d. per lb.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at all times.
979. — LAMBS’ SWEETBREADS, VOLTAIRE STYLE
(Fr — Ris d’Agneau a la Voltaire.)
Ingredients. — 8 lambs’ sweetbreads, 8 artichoke bottoms, 1 oz. of
butter, 1 oz. grated Parmesan cheese, 3 yolks of eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls
of Bechamel sauce (see Sauces), \ a pint of good stock, 2 or 3 slices of
bacon, 1 onion, 1 carrot, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf),
salt and pepper, meat glaze.
Method. — Blanch* drain, and trim the sweetbreads. Lay the slices
of bacon, onion and carrot sliced, and the bouquet-garni on the bottom
of a saute-pan, £ cover them with stock, add seasoning if necessary,
place the sweetbreads on the top, and cover with a buttered paper.
Put the saute-pan into a moderate oven and braise from 30 to 40
minutes, basting frequently, and adding more stock if necessary.
When the sweetbreads are done, brush them over with warm glaze
and keep them hot. Strain the stock into a small stewpan, skim well,
then add the yolks of eggs and Bechamel sauce, previously mixed
together, stir until it thickens, then pass through a tammy-cloth or
fine hair sieve. Drain the artichokes well after cooking, or from the
liquor when preserved ones are used, and place them in a well-buttered
ENTREES
25
1. Sweetbreads in Aspic Border. 2. Beef Roll, or Galantine.
3. Curried Beef and Rice.
A A
RECIPES FOR COOKING LAMB
573
saute-pan. Into each put a teaspoonful of the prepared sauce, lay
the sweetbreads on the top, cover with sauce, and sprinkle well with
the cheese. Melt the remainder of the butter, pour a little on each
sweetbread, bake in a hot oven for 5 or 6 minutes, then arrange neatly
on a hot dish, and serve with a suitable sauce.
Time. — From 1 to ij hours. Average Cost, is. 9d. to 2s. 3d. per lb.
Sufficient lor 6 or 7 persons.
Note. — For other methods of cooking lambs’ sweetbreads, see recipes for
cooking veal.
980. — LAMBS’ TAILS, RUSSIAN STYLE.
(Fr. — Queux d’Agneau a la Russe.)
Ingredients. — 4 or 5 lambs’ tails, i t pints of stock, 1 glass of Chablis
(if liked), a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 2 cloves, I of a
pint of tomato sauce ( see Sauces), frying-fat, salt and pepper. For
the batter : 2 ozs. of flour, \ a gill of tepid water, 1 tablespoonful of
salad-oil or melted butter, the white of 1 egg, 1 teaspoonful of finely-
chopped parsley, 1 saltspoonful of salt.
Method. — Blanch the tails, cut them into small joints, return them
to the stewpan with the stock, wine, bouquet-garni, cloves, salt and
pepper to taste, and cook until tender. Allow them to cool in the
stock, and, when ready to use, drain and dry well. Mix the flour,
water, oil, and salt into a smooth batter, then add the parsley and
white of egg stiffly whipped. Dip the pieces of tail in the batter,
and fry them until nicely browned in hot fat. Garnish with fried
parsley, and serve tomato sauce separately in a sauce-boat.
Time. — 2 hours. Average Cost, uncertain, being seldom sold. Suffi-
cient for 5 or 6 persons.
981. — LAMBS’ TAILS WITH POTATOES.
( Fr . — Queux d’Agneau aux Pommes de Terre.)
Ingredients. — 3 or 4 lambs’ tails, a few slices of bacon, 1 onion sliced,
1 carrot sliced, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 8 pepper-
corns, salt, stock, } of a pint of brown, tomato or other sauce, mashed
potato.
Method.— Blanch and dry the tails. Place the vegetables, herbs
and peppercorns in a stewpan, lay the tails on the top, add a little
salt and pepper, and cover with bacon. Add stock to nearly cover the
vegetables, put on the lid, which must fit closely, and cook gently for
2 hours, adding a little more stock from time to time. Serve in a
border of mashed potatoes with the sauce poured over the meat.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, uncertain, lambs' tails being
seldom sold. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable from April to
October.
5/4 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
982. — LEG OF LAMB, FRENCH STYLE.
(Fr. — Gigot d’Agneau a la FranQaise.)
Ingredients. — A small leg of lamb boned, 1 teaspoonful of finely-
chopped parsley, 1 finely-chopped shallot, 1 clove of bruised garlic,
2 ozs. of butter, 1 onion sliced, 1 carrot sliced, salt and pepper.
Method. — Mix the parsley, shallot, garlic, and a good seasoning of
salt and pepper together, and sprinkle the mixture on the inner surface
of the meat. Bind the meat into a good shape, place it in a baking-
tin containing the butter, onion and carrot, and season well with salt
and pepper. Bake for -1- an hour in a hot oven, and afterwards at a
lower temperature until the meat is cooked. Serve with gravy made
from the bones and the sediment in the baking-tin ( see “ Gravies ”).
Time. — Allow 20 minutes per lb. Average Cost, nd. to is. 2d. per lb.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable from April to October.
983. — LOIN OF LAMB, ROLLED AND BRAISED.
(Fr. — Longe d’Agneau Braisee.)
Ingredients. — 1 loin cf lamb, a mirepoix of vegetables ( see “ Shoulder
of Lamb. Braised ”), stock, glaze, cooked peas, spinach or cucumber,
salt and p pper.
Method. — Remove the bones, season the inner surface of the meat
with salt and pepper, roll the flap under as tightly as possible, and
bind with tape. Braise for about 2 hours ( see “ Shoulder of Lamb,
Braised ”), brush over with glaze, ancj serve on a bed of cooked peas,
spinach, or cucumber.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, ud. to is. 2d. per lb. Sufficient
for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable, from April to October.
984. — MINCED LAMB. (Fr. — Emince d’Agneau.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of cooked lamb, 1 finely-chopped medium-sized
onion, J of a pint of gravy or stock, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom
ketchup, f- of an oz. of butter, \ an oz. of flour, pepper and salt.
Method. — Cut the meat into small dice, and boil the bones and trim-
mings for 1 hour or longer, whei stock is needed. Melt the butter
in a stewpan, fry the onion until lightly browned, add the flour, and
brown it also. Stir in the gravy or stock, add the ketchup and season-
ing to taste, and simmer gently for 10 minutes. Put in the meat,
draw the stewpan aside where the contents will be kept just below
simmering point, and let it remain for at least L an hour. Serve,
surrounded by a border of mashed potato, well-boiled rice, or sippets
of toasted bread.
Time. — From 1 to ij hours. Average Cost, about is. 2d. Sufficient
for 3 to 4 persons. Seasonable from April to October.
RECIPES FOR COOKING LAMB
575
985. — NOISETTES OF LAMB. (Fr. — Noisettes d’Ag-
neau a la Union.)
Ingredients. — 1 loin of lamb, 8 artichoke bottoms, 2 dozen fresh button
mushrooms, 2\ ozs. of butter, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley,
i of a teaspoonful each of finely-chopped chive, chervil and tarragon,
the juice of L a lemon, 1 tablespoonful of warm meat glaze or 1 teaspoon-
ful of meat extract, j of a pint of stock, of a pint of demi-glace sauce
(see Sauces), salt and pepper.
Method. — Remove the fillet from the loin, and divide it into 8 slices,
which, when properly cut, are round and entirely free from fat. Pre-
pare the mushrooms, chop them finely, and fry them lightly in 1 oz.
of butter. Warm the artichoke bottoms in the stock ; to the mush-
room puree add the lemon-juice, herbs, glaze, or meat juice, season to
taste, mix well together over the fire, then fill the artichokes with the
preparation, and keep them warm. Heat the remainder of the butter
in a saute-pan, and fry the noisettes quickly until lightly browned.
Arrange in 2 rows on a hot dish, place an artichoke bottom on the top
of each, pour the demi-glace sauce round, and serve.
Time. — About } an hour. Average Cost, is. to is. 2d. per lb. Suffi-
cient for 6 or 7 persons.
986. — RAGOUT OF LAMB WITH SORREL.
(Fr. — Ragout d’Agneau a l’Oseille’)
Ingredients. — 2 or 3 lb. of neck or breast of lamb, \ a pint of boiling
stock, 2 ozs. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, 1 onion, 1 small carrot, 1 strip
of celery, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), the yolks of 2
eggs, 1 tablespoonful of cream, of a pint of sorrel puree, or, if more
convenient, \ of a pint of spinach puree mixed with the juice of \ a
lemon, salt and pepper.
Method. — Trim the meat, and blanch it by putting it into cold water,
bringing it slowly to the boil, and then immersing it for a few minutes
in seasoned salt water. Drain, dry well, and cut into 2-inch squares.
Heat the butter in a stewpan, and fry the sliced vegetables for 15
minutes, but do not let them brown. Now sprinkle in the flour, stir and
cook for 3 or 4 minutes, then add the boiling stock, herbs, 1 of a tea-
spoonful of salt, \ the quantity of pepper, and stir until smooth. Lay
the pieces of meat in the sauce, put on the lid, which should fit closely,
and simmer very gently for about if- hours. Meanwhile cook the sorrel
or spinach (see Vegetables), rub it through a fine sieve, and season to
taste. When the meat is ready, pile it in the centre of a hot dish. Strain
the sauce into another stewpan, and add the sorrel puree, when nearly
boiling put in the yolks of 2 eggs and cream, previously mixed together,
and stir until the sauce thickens. Season to taste, pour over the meat,
and serve.
576
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, iod. per lb. Sufficient for
6 or 7 persons.
987. — ROAST FORE-QUARTER OF LAMB.
(Fr. — Quartier d’Agneau Roti.)
Ingredients. — Fore-quarter of lamb, mint sauce ( see No. 256).
Method. — See “ Roast Lamb ” and “ Notes on Roasting,” p. 407.
Serve with gravy made from the sediment in the roasting-tin, and
mint sauce.
Time. — to 2 hours, according to size. Average Cost, 1 id. to is. 2d.
SuITicient for 8 to 12 persons, according to weight. Seasonable, grass
lamb from March to September.
988. — ROAST LAMB. (Fr. — Agneau Roti.)
Lamb, when roasting, requires more attention than any other kind
of meat No part of it must be underdone, and to secure this result
without drying and hardening the thinner portions to an undesirable
degree, much care is necessary. The intense heat to which all meat
must first be subjected for a few minutes is applied for too short a
time to affect the colour of a joint kept constantly in motion, and the
subsequent browning and over-cooking of any part may be obviated
by covering the meat with 2 or 3 folds of well-greased paper, and by
frequent basting. The amount of heat applied to any part may be
regulated by raising or lowering the joint on the spit, and the rate of
cooking by increasing or decreasing the distance between the joint
and the fire. See “ Notes on Roasting,” p. 407.
989. — SHOULDER OF LAMB, BRAISED.
(Fr. — Epaule d’Agneau Braisee.)
Ingredients. — A shoulder of lamb, larding bacon, 1 pint of stock,
3 ozs. of butter, 1 \ ozs. of flour, 2 shallots finely-chopped, 1 teaspoonful
of finely-chopped parsley. For the mirepoix : 2 onions, 2 carrots, -} a
small turnip, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 6 peppercorns.
Meat glaze.
Method. — Bone the shoulder, season well with salt and pepper, roll
up tightly, and bind securely with string. Cut the lardoons, or strips
of bacon for insertion in the meat, about 2 inches long, and rather
more than £ of an inch in thickness, and insert close rows in the rolled
meat. Slice the vegetables, and put them into a large braize-pan with
1 1 ozs. of butter, place the meat on the top, cover closely, and cook
gently for 20 minutes. Add the herbs, peppercorns, and stock to
nearly cover the vegetables, place a buttered paper over the meat, put
on the lid, and braise in the oven for 2 hours. \ an hour before serving,
ENTREES
I. Chaud-froid oi Lamb Cutlets. 2. Chicken Timbales, in Aspic.
3. Stuffed Larks, in Cases.
21
U
RECIPES FOR COOKING LAMB
577
melt the remaining butter in a stewpan, fry the shallots slightly, then
add the flour and cook until it acquires a nut-brown colour. When the
meat is ready, remove the strings, brush it over with stock reduced to
glaze, and put it into a moderate oven for a few minutes to crisp the bacon.
Strain the stock, increase the quantity to J of a pint, pour it over the
brown roux or thickening, and stir until it boils. Add to it the parsley,
season to taste, simmer for 2 or 3 minutes, then serve in a sauce-boat.
Cooked tomatoes, mushrooms, fancifully-cut turnips and carrots,
small timbales of spinach or green pea puree, haricots verts and mace-
doine are all suitable garnish for this dish.
Time. — To braise, about 2 hours. Average Cost, iod. to is. ul. per lb.
Note. — The loin, neck or breast may be cooked in this manner. If pre-
ferred, the shoulder may be stuffed with sausage meat or veal forcemeat,
and the larding may in all cases be omitted, if more convenient.
990.— SHOULDER OF LAMB, STUFFED.
( Fr . — Epaule d’Agneau Farcie.)
Ingredients. — A shoulder of lamb, veal forcemeat, No. 396, J of a pint
of stock, 1 oz. of butter, f- of an oz. of flour, 2 or 3 ozs. of dripping,
salt and pepper.
Method. — Remove the bones and boil them for at least 1 hour for
stock. Flatten the meat with a cutlet-bat or heavy knife, season
well with salt and pepper, and spread on the forcemeat. Roll up
lightly, tie securely with string, and place in a baking-tin in which the
dripping has been previously melted. Baste well, put it into a moderate
oven, and cook gently for about ij hours, basting frequently. Mean-
while fry the butter and flour together until well browned, add the
prepared stock, stir until boiling, and season to taste. Remove the
meat and keep it hot, pour off the fat without disturbing the sediment
in the tin, and add the brown sauce. Replace the meat, and cook it
gently for 20 minutes longer, basting frequently meanwhile. Serve
with a little sauce poured over the meat, and send the remainder to
table in a tureen. If preferred, the meat may be braised according to
directions given in reference to “ Loin of Lamb, Rolled and Braised.”
Time. - About id hours. Average Cost, lid. to is. 2d. per lb. Suffi-
cient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable all the year.
U
RECIPES FOR COOKING
MUTTON
CHAPTER XIX
991.— BAKED SHOULDER OF MUTTON, STUFFED.
(. Fr . — Epaule de Mouton Farcie.)
Ingredients. — A small shoulder of mutton, veal forcemeat. No. 396,
| of a pint of stock, 1 oz. of butter, £ of an oz. of flour, 2 or 3 ozs. of
dripping, salt and pepper.
Method. — Have all the bones removed from the shoulder, and boil
them down for stock. Flatten the meat, using either a wetted cutlet-
bat or rolling-pin for the purpose. Season well with salt and pepper,
spread on the forcemeat, roll up tightly and bind securely with string.
Have ready the baking-tin with the dripping melted, baste the meat
well, put it into a moderate oven, and cook gently for i£ hours, basting
frequently. Meanwhile fry together the butter and flour 'until a
brown roux, or thickening, is formed, strain on to it £ of a pint of stock
made from the bones (which should be boiled for at least 2 hours),
stir the sauce until it boils, and season to taste. When the meat has
cooked for \\ hours drain off every particle of fat, but leave the sedi-
ment in the tin, pour in the brown sauce, return to the oven, and cook
\ an hour longer, basting frequently. When ready, serve on a hot
dish, pour a little of the sauce over the meat, and send the remainder
to table in a sauce-boat.
Time. — To prepare and cook, about 2\ hours. Average Cost, 9d. to
iod. per lb.
Note. — Either leg, loin or neck of mutton may be cooked according to the
above recipe ; and when preferred, onion farce, or stuffing. No. 404, may be
substituted for the veal forcemeat.
The Poets on Sheep. — The keeping of flocks was one of the earliest employments of mankind,
and the most ancient kind of poetry was probably pastoral. The oldest representations we have
of the poetic character of pastoral life are those found in books of the Old Testament, which describe
the shepherd life of the patriarchs. Pastoral poetry in the classic sense of the term had its origin in
Greece, and Theocritus (third century b.c.) is the earliest and most illustrious of the pastoral poets.
Virgil at a later period represents pastoral poetry in Roman literature, his Bucolics with charming
grace setting forth the simplicity and sweetness of country life. Tasso and Ronsard wrote on pas-
toral subjects ; and among our English poetical works are Spencer’s Shepherd's Calendar, Browne’s
Britannia's Pastorals, Gay’s Shepherd's Week, Gray’s Elegy, Thomson’s Seasons, and Allan Ramsay's
Gentle Shepherd. In all such pastorals the allusions to the sheep are only of inferior importance to
the shepherds who attend them, and these have furnished innumerable figures and similes. Shakespeare
678
RECIPES FOR COOKING MUTTON 579
frequently compares men to sheep, as in King Henry VI., when Gloster rudely drives the lieutenant
from the side of the monarch, the hapless King thus touchingly speaks of his helplessness ; —
“ So flies the reckless shepherd from the wolf :
So first the harmless sheep doth yield his fleece,
And nest his throat unto the butcher’s knife.”
In the Two Gentlemen of Verona we meet with the following humorous comparison
“ Proteus. The sheep for fodder follow the shepherd, the shepherd for food follows not the
sheep ;
Thou for wages followest thy master, thy master for wages followest not thee ; therefore
thou art a sheep.
Speed. Such another proof will make me cry baa."
Burn’s Elegy on Poor Mailie, his only “ pet yowe is familiar to every one : —
” Thro’ a’ the town she stroll’d by him ;
A lang half mile she could descry him ;
Wi’ kindly bleat, when she did spy him
She ran wi’ speed ;
A friend mair faithfu’ ne’er cam’ nigh him,
Than Mailie dead.
I wat she was a sheep o’ sense.
An’ could behave hersel’ wi’ mense ;
I’ll say’t she never brake a fence,
Thro’ thievish greed.
Our bardie, lonely, keeps the spence,
Sin’ Mailie’s dead.”
992.— BOILED MUTTON. (Fr.— Mouton bouilli.)
The leg, neck and breast are the parts usually selected for boiling.
When intended for this purpose, the meat should not be allowed to
hang many days, for the least taint spoils the flavour of boiled mutton.
Too often the natural flavour of a boiled joint is overpowered by the
flavour of the vegetables with which it is cooked. To avoid this,
only the quantity sufficient to impart a slight flavour should be cooked
in the liquor, and the remainder boiled separately. The flavour
of the meat is thus preserved, and the vegetables are a better colour
when cooked more quickly than is possible if their rate of cooking is
adapted to the meat. The side of the joint intended to be dished
upwards should be put downwards in the boiling-pot, for however
gentle the ebullition of the water may be, its action somewhat spoils
the upper surface of the meat. Moreover, any scum that is not removed
during the process of cooking is apt to fall on the upper surface of the
meat, and impair its appearance. For particulars as to time required
etc., see “ Notes on Boiling,” p. 429.
The Good Shepherd. — The office of the Eastern shepherd was one of hardship and even of danger.
He was exposed to the extremes of heat and cold. His food was precarious, consisting often of wild
fruits. He had to defend his flock from the attacks of wild beasts, including the lion^ the wolf, the
panther, and the bear, and was also exposed to the risk of roving bands of robbers. The shepherd
led his sheep to the pasture, watched over them while feeding, supplied them with water, and at
night enclosed his flock in the fold, defending it from the attacks of wild beasts and predatory bands.
If any sheep was missing, he searched for it until it was found. The Eastern shepherd’s office was
thus necessarily one of great watchfulness and care, and of tenderness in caring for the weak and the
young of his flock. Hence the numerous allusions in the Bible to the shepherd and his sheep. The
Psalmist likens himself to a lost sheep, and prays the Almighty to seek His servant. Our Lord,
when sending His chosen disciples to preach the Gospel among their unbelieving brethren, compares
them to lambs going among wolves. The Eastern shepherd, by his kind treatment of his sheep,
endears them to him, so that they obey his voice, recognize the names by which he calls them, and
follow him as he leads them to and from the fold. The beautiful figure of the ” Good Shepherd,”
which occurs so often in the New Testament, expresses the Divine tenderness for mankind. ” The
good shepherd giveth his life for the sheep ” (St. John, x. n). “ I am the good shepherd, and know
my sheep, and am known of mine ” (St. John, x. 14). ” And other sheep I have, which are not of
this fold : them also I must bring, and they shall hear My voice ; and there shall be one fold, and
one shepherd” (St. John, x. 16).
580 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
993. — BONED LEG OF MUTTON, STUFFED.
( Fr . — Gigot de Mouton farci.)
Ingredients.— A small leg of mutton boned, 2 ozs. of finely-chopped
ham or bacon. 4 tablespoonfuls of breadcrumbs, 2 tablespoonfuls of
finely-chopped suet, 2 finely-chopped shallots, 1 teaspoonful of chopped
parsley, \ a teaspoonful of grated lemon-rind, \ a teaspoonful of pow-
dered mixed herbs, 1 saltspoonful of grated nutmeg, salt and pepper,
1 egg, milk, brown sauce or gravy ( see “ Sauces and Gravies ”).
Method. — Mix all the dry ingredients together, adding the needful
seasoning of salt and pepper. Moisten with the egg and as much
milk as is necessary to bind the whole together, press the mixture
into the cavity whence the bone was taken, and secure the opening.
Roast before a clear fire, or bake in a moderately hot oven from 2\
to 2\ hours, and when ready, serve with brown sauce or good gravy.
Time. — About 2\ hours. Average Cost, iod. per lb. Seasonable at
any time.
994. — BRAIN AND TONGUE PUDDING.
(. Fr . — Pouding de Cervelles et Langue.)
Ingredients. — 4 sheeps’ tongues, 4 sheep’s brains, 1 hard-boiled egg
sliced, 1 shallot finely-chopped, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley,
1 teaspoonful of flour, salt and pepper, of a pint of milk, suet paste.
Method. — Let the tongues and brains soak in salt and water for 2
or 3 hours, then cover the former with hot stock or water, and simmer
gently until the skin can be removed. Line a basin with some of the
paste ( see “ Beef Steak Pudding ”), slice the tongues, chop the brains
coarsely, place them in the basin in alternate layers, sprinkling each
layer with shallot, parsley, flour, salt and pepper, and intersperse with
slices of boiled egg. Add the milk, cover with suet paste (see pastes)
and boil for 3 hours, or steam for 3-J- hours.
Time. — From 3 to hours. Average Cost, 2s. to 2s. 6d. Sufficient
for 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
995. — BRAISED LEG OF MUTTON. (Fr.— Gigot de
Mouton braise.)
Ingredients. — 1 small leg of mutton. For the mirepoix : 2 onions
thickly sliced, 2 carrots thickly sliced, 1 small turnip thickly sliced, a
bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 10 peppercorns. For the
sauce: 1^ ozs. of butter, i|- ozs. of flour, 2 shallots finely-chopped,
1 pint of stock, salt and pepper, stock or water.
Method. — Put the mirepoix into a braising-pan or large stewpan,
nearly cover with boiling stock or water, lay the meat on the top,
RECIPES FOR COOKING MUTTON
58i
and wrap round it a well-greased paper. Put on the lid, which should
fit closely, and cook gently from 3 to 3} hours, adding more stock or
water as that in the pan becomes reduced. Half an hour before serving
melt the butter in a stewpan, fry the shallots lightly, then add the
flour, and cook until it acquires a nut-brown colour. Keep the meat
hot, strain the stock, increase the quantity to 1 pint, pour it over the
browned flour and butter, and stir until boiling. Season to taste,
boil gently for ten minutes, then pour a little over the meat, and serve
the remainder in a tureen. Cooked tomatoes, mushrooms, fancifully-
cut turnips and carrots, small timbales of spinach or green pea puree,
haricots verts and macedoine are all suitable garnishes for this chsh.
Time. — About 4 hours. Average Cost, iod. per lb. Seasonable at
any time.
996. — BRAISED MUTTON, PROVENCE STYLE.
(Fr. — Mouton braise a la Provengale.)
Ingredients. — A small leg of mutton (or shoulder, loin or neck, if
preferred). For the mirepoix, or foundation : 3 ozs. of butter, 2 large
onions, 2 carrots, 1 turnip, 2 strips of celery, a bouquet-garni (parsley,
thyme, bay-leaf), 10 peppercorns, 1 quart of stock. For the farce :
2 ozs. of lean raw ham, 2 ozs. of pork or veal, 2 ozs. of breadcrumbs,
6 button mushrooms, preferably fresh ones, 1 teaspoonful of finely-
chopped parsley, \ a teaspoonful of powdered mixed herbs, a tea-
spoonful of grated lemon-rind, 1 shallot finely-chopped, 2 j-olks and
1 white of eggs, salt and pepper. For the Proven^ale sauce : 1 pint
of brown sauce, 1 tomato, 1 onion, 2 large fresh mushrooms, i a tea-
spoonful of chopped parsley, £ a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, 1 oz.
of butter, glaze.
Method. — Bone the leg as far as the knuckle. Pass the ham and pork
or veal 2 or 3 times through a mincing machine, pound it well with
the breadcrumbs, herbs, lemon rind, parsley, shallot and eggs, season
to taste, and when smooth, rub through a wire sieve. Add to the
farce the mushrooms cut into small pieces, press it lightly into the cavity
of the leg, and sew up the opening. Slice the vegetables, place them
at the bottom of a large stewpan with the butter, bouquet-garni, and
peppercorns, and on the top of these lay the meat. Put on the lid,
cook gently for \ an hour, then add as much hot stock as will 3
parts cover the vegetables and the remainder to make good the re-
duction in the pan. Cover the meat with a buttered paper, put on the
lid, cook gently for 2 hours, basting frequently, then transfer from
the stewpan to a hot baking-tin, and continue the cooking for } of an
hour longer, keeping the meat well basted with hot butter or fat.
Strain the liquor, and either boil it down to glaze, or use it to make
the brown sauce ( see Sauces). Melt 1 oz. of butter in a small stewpan,
add the tomato, onion and mushrooms, all of which should be prcvi-
582
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
ously sliced, put in the parsley, cook gently for 15 or 20 minutes, and
add the brown sauce, boil lor 15 minutes longer. Season to taste,
rub through a fine hair sieve or tammy-cloth, re-heat, add the lemon-
juice, and keep hot until required. Place the meat on a hot dish,
brush it over with warm glaze, garnish it with baked tomatoes, mush-
rooms au gratin, braised olives, or fancifully-cut glazed vegetables,
and serve the sauce separately.
Time. — From 3^ to 3^- hours. Average Cost, iod. per lb. Seasonable
at any time.
997. — BREAST OF MUTTON, GRILLED OR BROILED.
(Fr. — Poitrine d’Agneau Grillee.)
Ingredients. — A breast of mutton, salt and pepper, tomato, piquante
or other suitable sauce.
Method. — Divide the breast into pieces convenient for serving, and
trim away some of the fat. Grill slowly over or in front of a clear fire,
in order that the meat may be thoroughly cooked, turning frequently
meanwhile, and sprinkling liberally with salt and pepper. Serve the
sauce separately.
Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. per lb. Seasonable at
any time.
998. — BREAST OF MUTTON, TO COLLAR.
Ingredients. — A breast of mutton boned, 2 tablespoonfuls of bread-
crumbs, 1 tablespoonful of finely-chopped capers, 1 teaspoonful of
finely-chopped parsley, \ a teaspoonful of powdered mixed herbs, \ of
a teaspoonful of finely-grated lemon-rind, vinegar, a good pinch of nut-
meg, salt and pepper, 1 yolk of egg.
Method. — Make a forcemeat of the above ingredients, taking care to
season it rather highly with salt and pepper. Flatten the meat, spread
the forcemeat evenly, roll up as lightly as possible, and secure with
string. Put the roll into a stewpan containing just sufficient stock
to cover it, or failing stock, use water and add the bones removed from
the meat, also vegetables and herbs to give flavour. Simmer very
gently for 2 \ hours, then transfer to an earthenware vessel, and strain
the stock. Add to it half its quantity of vinegar and a tablespoonful
of salt, and pour the mixture over the meat, which it should completely
cover. It should remain for at least 5 or 6 days before being used,
and may be kept for a much longer time, but the liquor must be boiled
up twice a week, and not replaced until quite cold.
Time. — To cook, 2\ hours. To pickle, 5 or 6 days. Average Cost,
6d. per lb'.
RECIPES FOR COOKING MUTTON
583
999. — BROILED BREAST OF MUTTON WITH
CAPER SAUCE. ( Fr . — Poitrine de Mouton
aux Capres.)
Ingredients. — A breast of mutton, 2 tablespoonfuls of breadcrumbs,
1 tablespoonful of finely-chopped suet, 1 dessertspoonful of chopped
parsley, £ a teaspoonful of powdered mixed herbs, milk, salt and
pepper, \ a pint of caper sauce, No. 182, stock, or water; when using
the latter, add 1 onion, 1 carrot, \ a small turnip, 10 peppercorns and
salt.
Method. — Remove the bones and any superfluous fat, flatten the
meat and season it well. Mix the breadcrumbs, suet, parsley, herbs,
and a good seasoning of salt and pepper together, and moisten with
milk. Spread the mixture on the meat, roll up lightly, and bind
securely with string. Put it into the stock or water when boiling ( see
“ Notes on Boiling,” p 429), simmer gently for 2 hours, then serve
with the caper sauce poured over.
Time.— About 2 hours. Average Cost, 6d. per lb. Seasonable all the
year.
The Order of the Golden Fleece. — This military Order, the Toison d’Or, at the present
time the highest Order of the Austrian and the Spanish courts was founded, 1429, by Philip III
“ the Good ” Duke of Burgundy, and of the Netherlands on the occasion of his marriage with the Prin-
cess Isabella of Portugal. Its emblem, worn suspended from the collar of the Order, is the figure
of a sheep or fleece in gold, and probably owes its origin to the circumstance that the Nether-
lands were the principal seat of the woollen manufactures. The original number of the mem-
bers of the Order was thirty-one, including the sovereign at its head. In 1516 the Order was en-
larged by Pope Leo X to fifty-two. The Duke of Burgundy was the hereditary Grand Master
until the Order, together with their dominions, passed from the Dukes of Burgundy to Austria.
In 1700 the German Emperor, Charles VI, by virtue of his possession of the Netherlands, and Philip
V, King of Spain, both laid claim to the headship of the Order. The former, however, when
unable to maintain his supremacy in Spain, took with him the archives of the Order to Vienna, where
he solemnized with great magnificence its inauguration in 1713. Philip V, on the other hand, declared
himself Grand Master, and at the Congress of Cambrai, 1721, formally protested against the preten-
sions of the Emperor. The dispute, though settled subsequently by the intercession of France,
England and Holland, was frequently renewed, until the Order was tacitly introduced into both
countries by the names respectively of the Spanish or Austrian 4‘ Order of the Golden Fleece,” ac-
cording to the country where it is conferred.
1000. — BROILED MUTTON AND TOMATO SAUCE.
(Fr.— Rechauffe de Mouton — Sauce Tomate.)
Ingredients. — Slices of cooked mutton, salad-oil or melted fat or
butter, salt and pepper, a pint of tomato sauce ( see “ Sauces ”),
mashed potato.
Method. — Brush the meat over on both sides with oil or melted fat,
sprinkle carefully with salt and pepper, and broil quickly over a clear
fire. Serve on a border of mashed potato, with the sauce poured
round.
Time. — From io to 15 minutes. Seasonable at any time.
1001. — BROILED OR GRILLED KIDNEYS.
(. Fr . — Rognons de Mouton Grilles.)
Ingredients. — Sheep’s kidneys, salt and pepper, salad-oil or oiled
butter.
5§4
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Split the kidneys lengthwise down to the root, remove the
skin, turn each half back, and run a skewer through them to keep
them flat. Brush over with salad-oil or oiled butter, and broil quickly
over a clear fire, taking care to cook the cut side first. Remove the
skewers, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and serve as hot as possible.
Time. — 5 to 6 minutes. Average Cost, 3d. each. Sulficient, 1 to
each person. Seasonable at any time.
Note.See “ Kidneys Grilled,” also recipes for cooking ox-kidney.
1002. — CHAUD-FROID OF MUTTON CUTLETS.
( Fr . — Cotelettes de Mouton en Chaud-froid.)
Ingredients. — 8 or 10 cutlets from the best end of the neck, 6 ozs. of
liver farce, No. 398, 6 leaves of French gelatine, ^ of a pint of tomato
sauce, i of a pint of Bechamel sauce, dressed salad, salt and pepper.
Method. — Braise the neck as directed in recipe No. 1052 ; when cold
cut it into neat cutlets, trim off the greater part of the fat, season
with salt and pepper, and cover one side with a thin layer of the liver
farce. Dissolve the gelatine in 2 tablespoonfuls of cold water, and
divide it equally between the tomato and Bechamel sauces, which
should be warm when the gelatine is added. Let the sauces cool
slightly, then coat the covered sides of the cutlets, making one half
red and the other white. Let them remain on ice or in a cool place
until the sauce is quite set, then arrange them in a circle in alternate
colours, place a frill on each cutlet, and serve the dressed salad in the
centre.
Time.— 1 J hours after the meat is cooked. Average Cost, 3s. 6d. to 4s.
Sufficient for 7 to 8 persons.
Note. — Brown sauce may be substituted for the white, the combination
of red and brown being very effective ; or a green chaud-froid sauce may be
used instead of the tomato sauce (see Sauces).
1003. — CHAUDFROID OF FILLETS OF MUTTON.
(. Fr . — Chaud-Froid de Noisettes de Mouton.)
Ingredients. — The best end of a neck of mutton, 1 oz. of butter, 2 oz.
of ham or lean bacon, \ a glass of sherry, of a pint of good stock,
1 onion, 1 small carrot, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 3
peppercorns, 1 clove, glaze, dressed salad, 2 whites of eggs, 1 truffle,
salt and pepper.
Method. — Remove the lean part from the neck of mutton, and cut it
into slices about J of an inch in thickness. Slice the vegetables, cut
the ham into small pieces, and place them in a saute-pan with the
butter, sherry, stock, herbs, clove and peppercorns. Season the noisettes
on both sides with salt and pepper, lay them on the lop of the vege-
tables, cover with buttered paper, cook slowly on the stove or in the
RECIPES FOR COOKING MUTTON
585
oven for 40 minutes, basting frequently, then press them between
2 dishes until cold. Season the whites of eggs with a little salt and
pepper, steam in a buttered dariol mould until firm, then cut into thin
slices, which must afterwards be stamped into rounds x inch in diameter.
Cut the truffle into thin strips about 1 inch in length, and rather less
than -} of an inch in thickness. If necessary, trim the noisettes to
make them a uniform round shape ; brush one side over with meat glaze,
place a round of white of egg in the centre of each, and over it 4 or 5
strips of truffle, lattice-work style. Arrange the noisettes in a
circle, slightly overlapping each other, fill the centre with the
dressed salad, and garnish the base of the dish between the noisettes
with tufts of endive, fancifully-cut slices of cucumber, and, if con-
venient, cubes of aspic jelly.
Time. — 3 hours. Average Cost, 3s. 9c!. to 4s. Sufficient for 7 or 8
persons.
Note.— For noisettes of mutton to be served hot, see “ Noisettes d'Agneau,
recipe No. 985.
The Downs. — The well-known substance chalk in its chemical composition is a nearly pure car-
bonate of lime. When carefully separated in water and examined under the microscope, it is found
to consist of on aggregation of exceedingly minute shells, fragments of corals, sponge-organisms,
the work of lime secreting creatures, such as the foraminifera and the polyzoa. Chalk-hills form the
sub-soil of the hilly districts of the south-east of England. Those known as the South Downs start
from the bold promontory of Beachy Head, traverse the county of Sussex from east to west, and
pass through Hampshire into Surrey. .The North Downs extend from Godaiming, by Godstone,
into Kent, and terminate in the line of cliffs which stretches from Dover to Ramsgate. The Downs
are covered with short verdant turf, but the layer of soil which rests on the chalk is too thin to support
trees and shrubs. The hills hive rounded summits, with smooth undulating outlines. The coombes
and furrows, which ramify and extend into deep valleys, resemble dried-up channels of streams and
rivulets. From time immemorial immense flocks of sheep have been reared on the Downs. The
herbage of the hills is remarkably nutritious, and the climate, consequent on the dryness of the air
and the moderate elevation of the land, is eminently favourable to rearing a superior breed of sheep.
The mutton of the South-Down breed of sheep is highly valued for its delicate flavour, and the wool
for its fineness.
1004.— FILLET OF MUTTON, TO DRESS.
( Fr . — Filet de Mouton.)
Ingredients. — A large leg of mutton, veal forcemeat ( see “ Force-
meats ”), gravy or suitable brown sauce.
Method. — This method is specially suited to a small household where
cold meat is disliked. Cut off the knuckle part which, braised or boiled,
will supply a dinner on a following day. From the other end of the
leg cut a l'oasting piece, thus leaving the fillet 3 or more inches in
thickness. Remove the bone, flatten the meat with a cutlet-bat or
rolling-pin, season well with salt and pepper, and spread on the force-
meat. Roll up tightly, bind securely with string, and either boil, braise,
roast or bake according to the directions given under respective head-
ings. If preferred, the fillet may be grilled, or roasted in a Dutch
oven, the forcemeat, of course, being omitted. It will be found excel-
lent if lightly fried, and afterwards stewed slowly, and served with
tomatoes or mushrooms. ( See also “ Oxford John,” No. 1055, and
“ Mutton Pudding.”)
586
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1005. — FRENCH HASH. (Fr.— Mirliton de Mouton.)
Ingredients.- — \ a lb. of Patna rice, 3 ozs. of preserved cherries, 4 ozs.
of prunes, 2 lb. of cold shoulder or leg of mutton, paprika pepper and
salt, | of a pint of Espagnole sauce, No. 244.
Mode. — Boil the rice in a large saucepan with plenty of seasoned water
until tender, when drain and dry well. Cut the meat into neat pieces,
and put it into the sauce, which must be first made hot. Allow it to
simmer very gently for an hour, then add the prunes, previously
stewed and stoned, also the cherries and rice. Season carefully with
paprika pepper and salt.
Time. — i-J- hours. Average Cost, about 2s. Sufficient for 5 or 6
persons.
1006. — FRIED KIDNEY. (Fr. — Rognons Frits.)
Ingredients. — Sheep’s kidneys, butter, salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the kidneys open lengthwise, but without quite dividing
them, and remove the skins. Run a skewer through them to keep them
flat, place the kidneys, cut side down, in a frying-pan containing a little
hot butter, and fry quickly on both sides. Season with salt and pepper,
pour a little hot gravy round them and serve as hot as possible.
Time.— 5 or 6 minutes. Average Cost, 3d. each. Sufficient, 1 for
each person. Seasonable at any time.
1007. — GRILLED MUTTON WITH TOMATO SAUCE.
(Fr. — Tranches de Mouton Grillees, Sauce
Tomate.)
Ingredients. — Two slices of mutton, about an inch in thickness, cut
from the middle of the leg, J of a pint of tomato sauce. For the marin-
ade : 2 tablespoonfuls of salad-oil or oiled butter, 1 dessertspoonful
of vinegar, \ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, of a teaspoonful
of finely-chopped shallot or onion, a pinch of powdered mixed herbs,
1 saltspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper, potato garnish.
Method. — Put the slice of meat on to a dish, pour over it the marinade,
and let it remain for 2 hours, turning and basting occasionally. When
ready to cook, drain, dry well, brush over with salad-oil or warm
butter, and grill over a clear fire for about 15 minutes. Have ready
the tomato sauce and some crisply fried straws, ribbons, or chips
of potato, place the meat on a hot dish, arrange the potatoes round the
base, and serve the sauce in a sauce-boat. The dish may be varied
by serving with it mushroom sauce and baked tomatoes, or baked
or stewed mushrooms and brown sauce.
Time. — To grill the meat, about 15 minutes. Average Cost, is. per lb.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
RECIPES FOR COOKING MUTTON 587
1008. — HARICOT MUTTON. (Fr. — Ragout de Mouton.)
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of neck of mutton (or scrag end), 2 ozs. of butter,
1 oz. of flour, 1+ pints of stock or water, 1 large onion or 12 button
onions, 2 carrots, 1 turnip, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf),
salt and pepper.
Method. — Divide the meat into thin cutlets, and trim off the skin
and greater part of the fat. When a large onion is used cut it into
dice ; scoop the carrots and turnip into small rounds, about the size
of a Spanish nut, or shape them like small olives. Melt the butter
in a stewpan, fry the meat until well browned on both sides, then take
it out. Fry the carrot and turnip until they acquire a good colour,
then drain them from the butter. Now fry the onion dice or button
onions, and when slightly browned add to them the flour, which
must be cooked and stirred until it becomes nut-brown. Have ready
the hot stock, pour it into the stewpan, stir until it boils, put in the
carrot and turnip, then add the bouquet-garni and salt and pepper
to taste, replace the meat, and stew gently for i|- to if hours.
Arrange the meat neatly in the centre of a hot dish, strain the sauce
over, and garnish with the onions, carrot, and turnip.
Time. — To cook, about 2 hours. Average Cost, 2s. Sufficient for
5 or 6 persons.
Note. — When a more simple dish is required, fat may be substituted for
the butter, and the turnip and carrot cut into dice.
The Golden Fleece. — The beautiful classic legend of the Golden Fleece may be briefly told as
follows : Phrixus, a son of Athamus, King of Thebes, to escape from the persecutions of Ino, his
stepmother, paid a visit to the court of his friend /Fetes, King of Colchis. A ram, whose fleece was
of pure gold, carried the youth through the air. On his safe arrival at Colchis, Phrixus offered the
ram on the Altar of Ares, but kept the golden fleece. /Fetes received the youth with great kindness
and gave him his daughter Chalciope in marriage ; but some time after, he murdered Phrixus to ob-
tain possession of the coveted fleece. To avenge the murder of Phrixus and recover the fleece, which
was said to be a sleepless dragon, Jason, commissioned by his uncle Pelias of Iolcus, commanded
Argus, the son of Phrixus, to build a ship of fifty oars, which he manned with fifty of the most cele-
brated heroes in Greece, including Hercules, Castor and Pollux, Theseus, and Orpheus. The Argo-
nauts, after various adventures, reached Colchis, and King /Fetes promised Jason the Golden Fleece
on the condition that he should yoke to a plough two fine-breathing, brazen-hoofed oxen, and sow
the dragon’s teeth which Cadmus had left at Thebes. By the aid of Medea, the sorceress, and daughter
of the King, who had fallen deeply in love with Jason, the fleece was secured, and brought to Iolcus.
Various interpretations have been given to the legend, which probably refers to a voyage of discovery
to the coasts of the Euxine by adventurers inspired by the desire to find new fields of commercial
enterprise.
1009. — HOT POT (LANCASHIRE).
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of the best end of the neck, 3 sheep’s kidneys,
12 sauce oysters, 2 lb. of potatoes, 1 Spanish onion, salt and pepper,
a pint of gravy, 1 oz. of butter, stock.
Method. — Divide the meat into neat cutlets, trim off the skin and
greater part of the fat. Put the short rib bones, the lean trimming
of the meat, the beards of the oysters, and a small onion into a stewpan,
cover these with cold water, and boil them down for gravy. Grease
a fireproof baking-dish, put in a deep layer of sliced potato, on the top
588
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
of them arrange the cutlets to slightly overlap each other, and on each
place i or 2 slices of kidney, and an oyster. Season well, put in the
remainder of the potatoes, but let the top layer consist of small potatoes
cut in halves and uniformly arranged to improve the appearance of
the dish. Pour down the side of the dish \ a pint of hot stock, or hot
water, seasoned with salt and pepper. Brush the upper layer of
potatoes over with warm butter, cover with a buttered paper, and bake
for 2 hours in a moderate oven. The paper must be removed during
the latter part of the time to allow the potatoes to become crisp and
brown. When ready to serve, pour in a little gravy, and send the rest
to table in a tureen. The hot pot must be served in the dish in which
it is baked.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, 4s. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Note. — For a more economical dish, see “ Hot Pot,” made of beef.
1010.- HUNTER’S MUTTON. (Fr.— Mouton a la Chas-
seur.)
Ingredients. — A boned leg of mutton, 8 ozs. of common salt, 4 ozs. of
bay-salt, id ozs. of moist sugar, 1 oz. of saltpetre, 1 teaspoonful of
ground allspice, d a teaspoonful of ground cloves, £ a nutmeg grated,
slices of bacon.
Method. — Mix the salting ingredients well' together, and rub the
mixture over the entire surface of the meat, the skin being previously
closely scored, to allow the flavour to penetrate. Turn and rub the
meat daily for a fortnight, then rinse in warm water, and bind it into
a good shape. Place in a deep baking-dish or tin with about \ a pint
of water cover first with slices of bacon, and afterwards with several
folds of well-greased paper, which must be secured round the edge
of the dish or tin to keep in the steam. Cook as gently as possible
for 4 hours, press until cold, then glaze, and use as required.
Time. — To pickle, 14 days. To cook, 4 hours. Average Cost, is.
per lb.
ion.— IRISH STEW. (Fr.— Ragout a l’lrlandaise.)
Ingredients. — 3 lb. of neck of mutton, 4 lb. of potatoes, 1 large onion,
12 button onions, pints of stock or water, salt and pepper, a little
finely-chopped parsley.
Method. — Cut the meat into pieces convenient for serving, and trim
off some of the fat. Wash, peel, and slice the potatoes and the large
onion, peel the button onions and blanch them. Put a layer of potatoes
at the bottom of a stewpan, cover these with a layer of meat, add a
slice or two of onion, and season well with salt and pepper. Repeat
until all the materials are used ; the top layer must consist of potato,
and the button onions should be interspersed. Add the stock or water,
RECIPES FOR COOKING MUTTON
589
and when it comes to the boil skim well, but unless the meat be very
fat very little subsequent skimming is needed, as the potatoes absorb the
greater part melted out of the meat. The stewpan must be kept
covered, and the contents cooked gently for about ib hours, or until
the potatoes are thoroughly cooked and the stew loses its watery ap-
pearance. If liked, a teaspoonful of mushroom or walnut ketchup
may be added before serving. Pile in the centre of a hot dish, sprinkle
on a little chopped parsley, and serve.
Time. — From 2 to 3 hours. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. to 2s. 9d. Sufficient
for 6 or 7 persons.
1012.— KIDNEYS, GRILLED. (Fr — Rognons Grilles.)
Ingredients. — Kidneys, croutons of fried bread or buttered toast,
salad-oil or oiled butter, Maitre d’hotel butter, see recipe No. 551.
Method. — Cover the kidneys with boiling water, and let them remain
in it for 2 minutes. Drain, dry, remove the skin, split in two length-
wise, but without detaching the halves. Pass a steel skewer through
them, to keep them open, brush over with salad-oil or oiled butter,
season with salt and pepper, and grill them over a clear fire, cooking
the cut side first. Time required for cooking depends upon the size
of the kidney and individual taste ; 5 minutes will be found sufficient
for a small kidney, and 8 minutes for a large one ; kidneys are almost
uneatable when overcooked. Have the croutons ready and as hot as
possible, place a kidney on each with a small pat of maitre d’hotel
butter in the centre of each kidney. Serve at once.
Time. — To grill, from 5 to 8 minutes. Average Cost, 3d. to qd. each.
Sufficient, 1 to each person.
1013.— KIDNEYS, SAUTED. (Fr— Rognons Sautes.)
Ingredients. — 3 sheep’s kidneys, 1 oz. of butter, } of a pint of brown
sauce, 1 tablespoonful of sherry, 1 shallot finely-chopped, salt and
pepper.
Method. — Immerse the kidneys in boiling water for 2 minutes, drain,
dry, remove the skins and cores, and cut them into \ inch slices. Heat
the butter in a saute-pan, fry the shallot slightly, put in the sliced
kidney, and shake or toss over the fire for 3 or 4 minutes Drain
off a little of the butter, add the brown sauce, sherry, salt and pepper,
stir by the side of the fire until thoroughly hot, but do not let the mix-
ture boil. Serve as hot as possible.
Time. — About 5 or 6 minutes. Average Cost, 3d. or qd. each. Suffi-
cient, 1 kidney to each person.
Note.— For other methods of cooking kidneys, see recipes for dressing veal
and beef kidney.
590 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1014. — KIDNEY, RAMAKINS OF. (Fr — Rognons
Sautes en Caisses.)
Ingredients. — 4 sheep’s kidneys, 8 croutons of fried bread, ozs. of
butter, 1 level dessertspoonful of flour, of a pint of good stock or
gravy, + a glass of sherry or Madeira, 1 finely-chopped shallot, 1 tea-
spoonful of finely-chopped parsley, salt and pepper.
Method. — Soak the kidneys for 2 minutes in boiling water, dry, re-
move the skins and cores, and slice them as thinly as possible. Heat
the butter in a saute-pan, fry the shallot until lightly browned, add
the sliced kidneys, toss them over the fire for 3 or 4 minutes, then draw
them to the side of the pan farthest away from the fire, and sprinkle
the flour on the bottom of the pan on the side nearest the fire. Brown
the flour quickly, then add the wine and stock, stir until boiling, season
to taste, and draw the pan aside for 4 or 5 minutes, but do not let the
contents boil or the kidneys will harden. The croutons of fried bread
must fit easily inside the ramakin cases, which should be heated in the
oven before being used. Have the cases readjq with the hot croutons
in them, fill each case with kidney and sauce, sprinkle on a little parsley,
and serve as hot as possible.
Time. — About 10 minutes. Average Cost, 3d. to qd. each. Sufficient
1 to each person.
1015. — KIDNEY TOAST. (Fr. — Rognons sur Croutes.)
Ingredients. — 2 sheep’s kidneys, or 4- a lb. of bullock’s kidney, 1 oz.
of butter, a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, cayenne, pepper, salt, 2 slices
of hot buttered toast.
Method. — Stew the kidneys in a little stock or water until tender,
remove the skin and gristle, and pound them in a mortar until quite
smooth. Add the butter, lemon-juice, a good pinch of cayenne, and
salt and pepper to taste, and pass the mixture through a wire sieve.
Spread lightly on the prepared toast, make thoroughly hot in the oven,
then serve.
Time. — From 1^ to 2 hours. Average Cost, 9d. to lid. Sufficient for
3 or 4 persons.
1016. — KNUCKLE OF MUTTON, TO BOIL.
Ingredients. — 1 knuckle of mutton (see “ Fillet of Mutton, to Dress”),
1 onion, 1 carrot, j- of a turnip, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme,
bay-leaf), 8 peppercorns, salt.
Method. — Prepare and slice the vegetables. Place the knuckle
in a stewpan just large enough to hold it, and containing sufficient
boiling stock or water to barely cover the meat. Add the vegetables,
herbs, peppercorns and a little salt, and simmer very gently for about
i£ hours (see “ Boiled Mutton,” also “ Notes on Boiling,” p. 429).
RECIPES FOR COOKING MUTTON
59i
If liked, the stock in which the mutton has cooked may be converted
into onion sauce (see “ Sauces ”).
Time. — About 1} hours. Average Cost, iod. per lb.
1017. — LEG OF MUTTON, WITH OYSTERS.
(. Fr . — Gigot de Mouton aux Huitres.)
Ingredients. — A well-hung boned leg of mutton, 12 sauce oysters,
1 tablespoonful of breadcrumbs, 2 hard-boiled yolks of eggs, 1 tea-
spoonful of chopped parsley, 1 shallot finely-chopped, salt and pepper,
oyster sauce ( see No. 310 “ Sauces ”).
Method. — Blanch the oysters in their own liquor, which afterwards
strain. Chop the oysters coarsely, add to them the breadcrumbs,
yolks of eggs, parsley, shallot, and a little salt and pepper, and moisten
slightly with oyster liquor. Press the forcemeat lightly into the
cavity from which the bone was removed, carefully secure any opening
there may be, and bind with strong string. Boil gently in stock, or
water flavoured with vegetables and herbs, from 2} to 3 hours, accord-
ing to size, and serve with oyster sauce.
Time. — To boil, 2} to 3 hours. Average Cost, iod. per lb.; oysters,
is. to is. 6d. per dozen. Sufficient for 12 or more persons, according to
size. Seasonable from September to April.
1018. — LIVER AND BACON.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of liver, % a lb. of bacon, flour, salt and pepper.
Method. — Put the liver into a basin, cover with boiling water, let
it remain for 10 minutes, then drain, dry well, and cut into \ inch
slices. Season 1 tablespoonful of flour with 1 teaspoonful of salt,
and the quantity of pepper, and dip each slice of liver in the mixture.
Heat the frying-pan, cut the bacon into thin slices, fry them, remove
to a hot dish or tin, and keep hot until required. Fry the liver in the
fat from the bacon, but quickly, in order that it may be well-browned
on both sides without over-cooking. Transfer to a hot dish, sprinkle
in about a dessertspoonful of flour, let it brown, then add about
of a pint of water, stir until it boils, and strain over the liver. Arrange
the bacon neatly on the top, and serve as hot as possible.
Time. — To fry the liver, 5 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. to Sd. per lb.
Sufficient for 3 persons.
Note.— See recipe for cooking calves’ and ox liver.
1019. — LOIN OF MUTTON, BONED AND STUFFED.
(Fr. — Longe de Mouton, farcie Rotie.)
Ingredients. — A loin of mutton, 3 tablespoonfuls of breadcrumbs,
2 tablespoonfuls of chopped suet, 2 tablespoonfuls of chopped ham or
592
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
bacon, i teaspoonful of powdered mixed herbs, 2 teaspoonfuls of chopped
parsley, \ a teaspoonful of grated lemon-rind, 1 egg, milk, nutmeg,
salt and pepper, gravy or sauce.
Method. — Bone the meat, trim away any superfluous fat, and flatten
with a cutlet-bat or rolling-pin. Mix all the dry ingredients well
together, add a good seasoning of salt and pepper, stir in the egg and
as much milk as is necessary to moisten the whole. Spread the force-
meat on the inner surface of the meat, roll up tightly, and secure with
tape. Bake the meat in a moderately hot oven for 2 or z\ hours,
according to size basting frequently with hot fat, or, if preferred, the
meat may be either braised or stewed according to directions given
under the respective headings. Serve with good gravy, brown sauce,
or any other sauce preferred.
Time. — To bake, from 2 to 2b hours. Average Cost, is. per lb. Suffi-
cient for 6 or more persons, according to weight. Seasonable at any
time.
1020. — LOIN OF MUTTON, DAUBE STYLE.
(. Fr . — Longe de Mouton a la Daube.)
Ingredients. — A loin of mutton boned, 3 tablespoonfuls of breadcrumbs,
2 tablespoonfuls of chopped suet, 1 tablespoonful of finely-chopped
ham or bacon, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, of a tea-
spoonful of finely-grated lemon-rind, 1 egg, milk, nutmeg, salt and
pepper, stock, tomato, brown or other suitable sauce, slices of bacon
glaze.
Methods — Place the bones, removed from the meat, at the bottom
of a stewpan, and cover with stock, or, failing stock, use water and the
usual flavouring vegetables (see recipes for braising mutton). MLx
the breadcrumbs, suet, ham, parsley, lemon-rind and a seasoning of
salt well together, add a good pinch of nutmeg, and stir in the egg and
as much milk as will slightly moisten the whole. Stuff the loin with
the preparation, secure the openings, and fold in several thicknesses
of greased paper. Place the meat in the stewpan, cover with slices
of bacon, put on a close-fitting lid, and cook very slowly for 4 or 5
hours, according to size, adding more stock from time to time. Re-
move the paper, brush over with glaze, let the meat remain in a hot
oven for 10 or 15 minutes, then serve with the prepared sauce.
Time. — Altogether, from 4 \ to 5^ hours. Average Cost, is. per lb.
Sufficient for 6 or more persons, according to weight. Seasonable at
any time.
1021. — MEAT AND POTATO PIE.
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of cold lean mutton, 2 lb. of potatoes, 2 onions,
f of a pint of gravy (made from the bones and trimmings of the meat),
salt and pepper.
ENTREES,
i. Ragout of Veal. 2. Mutton Cutlets with Cauliflower. 3. Tournedos of
Beef with Stuffed Olives.
74
3 D *
RECIPES FOR COOKING MUTTON
593
Method. — Cut the meat into small thin slices, parboil and slice the
potatoes and onions. Line the bottom of a pie-dish with potato^
cover with a layer of meat and a few slices of onion, and season liberally
with salt and pepper. Repeat until the materials are used, the top
layer consisting of potato. Pour in the gravy, cover with a greased
paper, and bake about i hour in a moderate oven. A | of an hour
before serving, remove the paper to allow the potatoes to brown.
Time. — To prepare and cook, about ij hours. Average Cost, 3d., ex-
clusive of the meat. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
1022. — MUTTON, CASSEROLE OF, ENGLISH STYLE.
(Fr. — Casserole de Mouton a l’Anglaise.)
Ingredients. — Neck or loin of mutton, good gravy, suet paste, ( see
pastes), salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the meat into small chops or cutlets, remove the bones,
and trim away nearly all the fat. Place the meat in a casserole it
will about l fill, cover with good gravy, and season to taste. Put on
the lid, and cook gently for about 1 hour, either on the stove or in a
moderately cool oven. Meanwhile, make the paste as directed, and
roll it into a round or oval form of smaller dimensions than the casserole.
Lay the paste on the top of the meat, replace the lid, and cook gently
for i\ hours longer. Divide the paste into sections before serving.
Time. — 2\ hours. Average Cost, 9d. to is. per lb.
1023. — MUTTON CHOPS, BROILED OR GRILLED. y
Ingredients. — Loin of mutton, salad-oil or oiled butter, salt and
pepper. - ^
Method. — Divide the loin into chops, trim away any superfluous fat,
curl the end round, and fasten securely with a small skewer. Brush
over with salad-oil or butter, broil over or in front of a clear fire, turning
3 or 4 times, then season with salt and pepper, and serve.
Time.— -To broil, 7 to 10 minutes. Average Cost, is. per lb.
1024. — MUTTON COLLOPS.
Ingredients. — 6-8 slices of cooked mutton, 2 shallots or 1 small onion
finely-chopped, } a teaspoonful of powdered mixed herbs, a salt-
spoonful of mace, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, butter or fat for frying,
a pint of gravy or stock, lemon-juice or vinegar, salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the meat into round pieces about 2} inches in diameter.
Mix together the shallot, herbs, mace, and a little pepper and salt,
and spread this mixture on one side of the meat. Let it remain for
1 hour, then fry quickly in hot butter or fat, taking care to cook the
side covered with the mixture first. Remove and keep hot, sprinkle
the flour on the bottom of the pan, which should contain no more fat
594
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
than the flour will absorb, let it brown, then add the gravy or stock.
Season to taste, boil gently for about 1 5 minutes, add a little lemom
juice or vinegar to flavour, and pour the sauce round the meat*
Tiriie. — Altogether, hours. Average Cost, about is. 8d. Sufficient,,
1 lb for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.
1025. — MUTTON, CURRY OF. (Fr. — Kari de Mou~
ton.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb, of cooked mutton, a pint of curry sauce ( see
No. 241), boiled rice.
Method.— Remove all skin and fat from the meat and cut it into
small thin slices. Make the sauce as directed, let the meat remain
in it for at least \ an hour, then serve with well-boiled rice.
Time.— To re-heat the meat, \ an hour. Average Cost, is. 6d.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at all times.
Note, — See J‘ Veal, Curry of,” Chicken, Curry of,” also “ Indian
Cookery,”
1026. — MUTTON CUTLETS, TO PREPARE.
The best end of a neck of mutton must be selected for this purpose.
Saw off the chine bone and the ends of the rib bones, leaving the- part
to be divided into cutlets about 4 inches long, but this must be deter-
mined by the size of the fillet or lean portion of the meat. The end
of each bone must be scraped quite bare to the depth of about £ of an
inch. A more even surface and a better shape may be obtained by
beating them slightly with a wetted cutlet-bat or chopping-knife.
When the mutton is large, 1 cutlet may be cut with a bone and 1 cutlet
between each of the bones : when the cutlet frills are attached the
appearance of the boneless cutlets is identical with the rest. Nearly
all the fat must be trimmed off, and should be clarified and used
for frying or making plain pastry and cakes, while the lean parts
may be boiled down for gravy or sauce to be served with the cutlets,
or when not required for this purpose they may be put into the stock
pot.
Shepherds and their Flocks. — From the sheikh downwards, every one in a nomadic state of
society is more or less a shepherd. The ancestors of the Israelites in the patriarchal age tended
sheep, and until after the Egyptian Captivity, when the shepherd held a subordinate position, the
occupation of tending flocks was undertaken not only by the sons, but also by the daughters of wealthy
chiefs. Among the earlier Eastern nations sheep constituted an important part of their possessions.
The first mention of sheep occurs (Gen. iv. 2) in connexion with Abel, who is mentioned as a “ keeper
of sheep.” Both the adult and the lamb were used in sacrificial offerings. Many passages in
the Bible indicate the magnitude of the pastoral riches of the Eastern people, for instance, the
giving of a hundred sheep by Jacob to the children of Hamor as the price of a field, and the yearly
tribute which the King of Israel received from the King of Moab, comprising a hundred thousand
sheep, and a similar number of rams with their fleeces. The tendency of sheep to ramble necessitates
the care of a shepherd, and it is no easy task to keep a flock whthin bounds ; but the watchful shep-
herd, aided by his cleverly trained and intelligent dogs, manages to accomplish it without harassing
the sheep. In the Higalmds of Scotland, where the herbage is scanty, sheep farms are of wide extent,
necessitating the services of numerous shepherds.
RECIPES FOR COOKING MUTTON 595
1027. — MUTTON CUTLETS, BRAISED. (Fr.— Cote-
lettes de Mouton Braisees.)
Ingredients. — 7 or 8 cutlets from the best end of the neck, larding
bacon, 1} ozs. of butter, \ a pint of stock, 1 onion, 1 carrot, 1 or 2
strips of celery, \ a small turnip, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme,
bay leaf), glaze, salt and pepper, % of a pint of tomato or demi-glace
sauce (see Sauces), peas, spinach, or other vegetable garnish.
Method. — Trim and flatten the cutlets into a good shape, and insert
5 or 6 fine lardoons, or pieces of fat bacon used for larding, in the lean
part of each one. Slice the vegetables, put them into a stewpan with the
butter and bouquet-garni, lay the cutlets on the top, put on the lid,
and cook gently for 20 minutes. Have the stock boiling, pour into
the stewpan as much of it as will f- cover the vegetables, and add the
remainder of the stock as that in the pan reduces. Cover the cutlets
with a buttered paper, put on the lid, and cook gently for about 50
minutes on the stove or in the oven. When done, brush over one
side with meat glaze, and put them into a hot oven for a few minutes to
crisp the bacon. Arrange them in a close circle on a border of potato,
serve the prepared vegetables in the centre, and pour round the sauce.
Time. — To cook the cutlets, about hours. Average Cost, is. per lb.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Various Qualities of Mutton. — Mutton is the meat most generally consumed in families, and
in the estimation of medical men and connoisseurs, it takes the first place for its digestibility, its fine
flavour, and its wholesomeness. The mutton of the South Down sheep is the most highly esteemed,
and it is also the most expensive. The London and other markets are largely supplied by sheep,
called half-breeds, which are a cross between the South Down and the Lincoln or Leicester breeds.
Sheep of this description yield mutton of greater weight than that of the true South Downs, and for
this reason they are preferred by the great sheep masters. The legs of this mutton range from 8 lb.
to 13 lb. in weight ; the shoulders, neck, or loins, about 10 lb. to 13 lb. ; and if care be taken not to
purchase it too fat, it will be found to be the most satisfactory and economical mutton that can be
bought. Welsh mutton, although small in fize, is of excellent flavour, and large quantities of New
Zealand and Australian mutton are now supplied to the London market. The finer qualities are but
little inferior to those of home production. The New Zealand mutton, commonly known as “ Cante-
bury,” takes the prior place, and is sold at an average rate of i£d. per lb. more than the Australian.
1028. — MUTTON CUTLETS, GRILLED. (Fr— Cote-
lettes de Mouton Grilles.)
Ingredients. — -7 or 8 cutlets cut from the best end of the neck, 7 or 8
very small tomatoes stuffed with mushrooms ( see Vegetables), J of a
pint of demi-glace sauce (see Sauces), 1^ ozs. of butter, breadcrumbs.
Method. — Trim and flatten the cutlets into a good shape. Prepare
the tomatoes as directed, and bake them until tender in a moderate
oven. Warm the butter, dip in the cutlets, taking care that the sides
are well coated, cover lightly with breadcrumbs, and press them firmly
on with a knife. Grill them over or in front of a clear fire, turning
them carefully 2 or 3 times, in order that both sides may be equally
cooked and browned. Arrange neatly on a border of potato, serve
the tomatoes piled in the centre, and pour the sauce round.
Time. — From 8 to 10 minutes, to cook the cutlets. Average Cost, is.
per lb. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
596 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1029. — MUTTON CUTLETS, ITALIAN STYLE.
(Fr. — Cotelettes de Mouton a l’ltalienne.)
Ingredients. — 8 or 9 cutlets, 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, 1 table-
spoonful of lemon-juice, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped mixed herbs,
1 egg, 3 or 4 tablespoonfuls of breadcrumbs, 1 tablespoonful of finely-
chopped mushrooms, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, a tea-
spoonful of finely-chopped shallots, ^ of a teaspoonful of finely-grated
lemon-rind, a pinch of mace, clarified butter, salt and pepper, \ a pint
of Italian sauce (see “ Sauces ”).
Method. — Mix the salad-oil, lemon-juice, herbs, and a little salt
and pepper together, pour the mixture over the cutlets, and let them
remain for 1 hour, turning 2 or 3 times. Mix together the breadcrumbs,
mushrooms, parsley, shallots, lemon-rind and mace, and season to
taste with salt and pepper. Drain the cutlets, brush them over with
egg, and coat carefully with the above mixture. Fry in hot butter
until nicely browned on both sides, and serve with Italian sauce.
Time. — To fry, 5 or 6 minutes. Average Cost, 4s. to 4s. 3d. Sufficient
for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable at any time.
1030. — MUTTON CUTLETS, MAINTENON STYLE.
(Fr. — Cotelettes de Mouton a la Maintenon.)
Ingredients.— 8 or 9 thick mutton cutlets, \ a pint of Espagnole
sauce (see “ Sauces ”), gravy or good stock, 4 tablespoonfuls of finely-
chopped fresh mushrooms, 1 or 2 tablespoonfuls of finely-chopped
shallot, 1 tablespoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 1 oz. of butter,
salt and pepper.
Method. — Trim the cutlets (see “ Mutton Cutlets, to Prepare ”),
insert a sharp knife, and split the meat nearly down to the bone. Heat
the butter in a saute-pan, fry the shallot until lightly-browned, then
add the mushroom and parsley. Season to taste, add a very little gravy
or stock if too dry, and toss over the fire for a few minutes. Fill the
openings made in the cutlets with the preparation, and press the edges
firmly together. Grill over a clear fire, or, if preferred, fry in a little
butter until nicdy browned, and arrange them neatly on a silver or
fireproof dish. Coat them lightly with sauce, sprinkle on the remainder
of the mushroom preparation, and cook in a hot oven for 5 or 6 minutes.
Serve the remainder of the sauce in a tureen.
Time. — To grill or fry, 6 or 7 minutes. Average Cost, is. per lb.
Sufficient for 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
1031. — MUTTON CUTLETS, PORTUGUESE STYLE.
(Fr.— Cotelettes de Mouton a la Portugaise.)
Ingredients. — 8 or 9 cutlets, 4 tomatoes sliced, 2 shallots or 1 onion
RECIPES FOR COOKING MUTTON
597
sliced, i oz. of butter, i teaspooniul of cornflour, J of a pint of stock
or water, vinegar, castor sugar, salt and pepper.
Method. — Trim the cutlets ( see “ Mutton Cutlets, to Prepare,” No. 1026).
Heat the butter in a saute or frying-pan, fry the onion brown, add the
tomatoes, cook gently for J, an hour, then pass through a fine sieve.
Replace in the saute-pan, add the cornflour and stock previously mixed
smoothly together, stir until boiling, and season to taste. Stir and
boil gently for 2 or 3 minutes, then add 2 or 3 teaspoonfuls of vinegar
and a good pinch of sugar, cover and keep hot until required. Grill
the cutlets over a clear fire, or, if more convenient, fry quickly in a little
hot butter or fat. Serve arranged in a close circle on a hot dish with
the sauce poured round.
Time. — To grill or fry the cutlets, 7 or 8 minutes. Average Cost, is.
per lb. Sufficient for 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
1032. — MUTTON CUTLETS, REFORM STYLE.
(/■'>.— Cotelettes de Mouton a la Reforme.)
Ingredients. — 7 or 8 mutton cutlets, 2 tablespoonfuls of breadcrumbs,
1 tablespoonful of finely-chopped ham, salt and pepper, 1 egg. For
the garnish: 1 tablespoonful of shredded cooked ham, 1 tablespoonful
of shredded gherkin, 1 tablespoonful of shredded champignons, 1
tablespoonful of shredded white of egg, 1 tablespoonful of shredded
truffle, -1- an oz. of butter, stock, \ a pint of Espagnole or brown sauce
(see “ Sauces ”), frying -fat.
Method. — Mix the breadcrumbs and chopped ham together, and season
rather highly with salt and pepper. Flatten the cutlets slightly, trim
them to a good shape, and coat them first with beaten egg, and after-
wards with the breadcrumbs, etc. Melt the butter, add all the shredded
ingredients and a little pepper, moisten with stock, and make thoroughly
hot. Fry the cutlets quickly in hot butter or fat until nicely browned,
and drain free from fat. Arrange them on a hot dish in a close circle
with the garnish in the centre, and the sauce poured round, or, if
preferred, in a close row with the sauce poured round, and the garnish
arranged lightly on one side.
Time. — To fry, 6 or 7 minutes. Average Cost, about qs. 6d. Sufficient
for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
1033. — MUTTON CUTLETS WITH GREEN PEAS.
( Fr . — Cotelettes de Mouton aux Petits Pois.)
Ingredients. — 7 or 8 cutlets cut from the best end of a neck of mutton,
1 pint of shelled peas, -J- of a pint of Espagnole sauce, 3 ozs. of butter,
1 egg, breadcrumbs, salt and pepper.
Method. — Trim the cutlets, and flatten them with a wetted cutlet-
bat or heavy chopping-knife. Beat the egg, add to it i an oz. of warm
598
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
butter and a liberal seasoning of salt and pepper ; dip the cutlets in
the preparation, and coat them carefully with breadcrumbs. Boil
the peas, drain them well, and just before serving put them into a stew-
pan with i oz. of 'butter and a little salt and pepper, and toss
over the fire until well mixed with the butter. Heat the remaining
i-| ozs. of butter in a saute-pan and fry the cutlets quickly until lightly
browned on both sides, then drain well. Arrange them overlapping
each other on a thin potato border, serve the peas in the centre, and
pour the hot Espagnole sauce round.
Time. — To cook the cutlets, from 7 to 10 minutes. Average Cost,
is. per lb. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
1034. — MUTTON CUTLETS WITH SOUBISE SAUCE.
(Fr. — Cotelettes de Mouton a la Soubise.)
Ingredients. — 7 or 8 cutlets cut from the best end of the neck, \ a pint
of Soubise sauce, \ of a pint of demi-glace or brown sauce ( see Sauces),
salt and pepper, salad-oil, or butter.
Method. — Trim and flatten the cutlets into a good shape, brush them
over with oiled butter or salad-oil, and grill over or in front of a clear
fire for 8 or 10 minutes. The cutlets should be turned 2 or 3 times,
and before serving sprinkle both sides with a little salt and pepper.
Arrange them in a close circle on a border of mashed potato, serve the
Soubise sauce in the centre, and pour the other sauce round.
Time. — 8 to 10 minutes. Average Cost, is. per lb. Sufficient for
5 or 6 persons.
1035. - MUTTON CUTLETS, VENETIAN STYLE.
( Fr . — Cotelettes de Mouton a la Venetienne.)
Ingredients. — 7 or 8 mutton cutlets, 4 ozs. of quenelle meat, No. 413,
3 tablespoonfuls of finely-chopped ham, 1 hard-boiled white of egg,
finely-chopped, 1 small truffle, fmely-chopped, 2 ozs. of butter, \ a
pint of brown sauce ( see Sauces). For the garnish : 1 tablespoonful
each of hard-boiled white of egg, gherkin and cold boiled ham cut
into very fine strips about i7j inches in length, salt and pepper.
Method. — Prepare the cutlets, then fry them in 2 ozs. of hot butter,
drain and press lightly until cool. Cover one side of each cutlet with
a layer of quenelle meat, which in its turn must be covered with a thin
layer of chopped ham. Sprinkle half the cutlets with chopped truffle,
the remainder with white of egg, and place them in a saute-pan. Pour
some of the brown sauce round, cover with a buttered paper and cook
on the stove or in the oven for atout an hour. Heat the garnish
in a bain-marie or over a saucepan of boiling water. Remove the
cutlets, add the remainder of the sauce, and boil up. Arrange the
cutlets in a close circle on a potato border, serve the garnish in the
centre, and pour the sauce round
RECIPES FOR COOKING MUTTON
599
Time. — I hour. Average Cost, 4s. to 4s. 6d. Sufficient for 5 or 6
persons.
1036. — MUTTON, DEVILLED. (Fr— Mouton a la
Diable.)
Ingredients.— 8-9 slices of cold roast mutton, oiled butter, browned
breadcrumbs, lemon- juice, salt and pepper, cayenne, watercress.
Method. — Season the meat with salt, pepper and cayenne, sprinkle
with lemon-juice, and put aside for an hour. When ready, dip it
into oiled butter, coat lightly with browned breadcrumbs, and bake
in a moderately hot oven for a few minutes. Arrange in a close circle
on a hot dish, fill the centre with watercress seasoned with salt, pepper
and lemon-juice, and serve.
Time. — To bake, about 10 minutes. Average Cost, is. 8d. to is iod.
Sufficient for a dish.
1037. — MUTTON DORMERS.
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of underdone mutton finely-chopped, 4 ozs. of
cooked rice ( see “ Rice for Curries ”), 3 ozs. of finely-chopped suet,
1 shallot or small onion finely-chopped, salt and pepper, egg, bread-
crumbs, frying-fat, gravy made from the bones and trimmings.
Method. — Cook and dry the rice as directed, add to it the meat,
suet, shallot, and a good seasoning of salt and pepper, mix the ingredi-
ents well together, and form them into cork-shaped pieces. Coat with
egg and breadcrumbs, fry in hot fat until nicely browned, and drain
well. Serve garnished with crisply-fried parsley, and send the gravy
to table in a tureen.
Time. — To fry, 5 or 6 minutes. Average Cost, 5d., in addition to the
meat. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.
1038. — MUTTON, FRITTERS OF. (Fr— Beignets de
Mouton.)
Ingredients. — Frying-batter (see “ Apple Fritters ”). For the meat
mixture: \ a lb. of finely-chopped cooked mutton, 1 teaspoonful of
finely-chopped parsley, of a teaspoonful of finely-chopped shallot or
onion, \ an oz. of butter, J of an oz. of flour, £ of a pint of strong stock,
salt and pepper, frying-fat.
Method. — Make the batter as directed, and put it aside until required.
Melt the butter in a stewpan, fry the onion lightly, then stir in first the
flour and afterwards the stock, and boil quickly for 3 or 4 minutes,
stirring meanwhile. Add salt, pepper, parsley and the meat, turn
the preparation on to a plate, and when cool drop pieces about the
size of a walnut into the batter. Take them out one at a time in a
6oo
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
spoon and fry in hot fat until crisp and lightly browned. Drain well,
and serve garnished with crisply-fried parsley.
Time. — To fry, 7 or 8 minutes. Average Cost, 8d., in addition to the
meat. Sufficient for 3 persons.
Note. — If preferred, the meat may be cut into thin slices, seasoned with
salt and pepper, flavoured with onion or herbs, and, after standing tor
a time, finished off as directed above.
1039. — MUTTON CUTLETS TALLEYRAND STYLE.
(Fr. — Cotelettes de Mouton a la Talleyrand.)
Ingredients. — 7 or 8 mutton cutlets, 4 oz. of cooked chicken, \ of a
pint of demi-glace sauce, \ a gill of white sauce (about), 1 oz. of butter,
1 whole egg, 2 yolks of eggs, 4 preserved mushrooms finely-chopped,
2 shallots finely-chopped, frying-fat, salt and pepper, cayenne, bread-
crumbs, vegetable garnish.
Method. — Heat the butter in a saute-pan ; trim the cutlets neatly,
fry them for not more than 5 minutes, turning them once, then press
between 2 dishes until cool. Chop the meat of the chicken finely,
pound it in a mortar until smooth, adding the 2 yolks of eggs and as
much of the white sauce as is necessary to moisten the meat, season
to taste, and rub through a fine sieve. Re-heat the butter in the saute-
pan, fry the shallots slightly, add to them the mushrooms, cook for
2 or 3 minutes longer, then mix with the meat puree. Mask the cutlets
completely with the preparation, brush them lightly over with beaten
egg, coat carefully with breadcrumbs, and fry until nicely browned in
hot fat. Dish in a close circle on a thin potato border, serve spinach,
peas, asparagus points, or whatever may be preferred, in the centre,
and pour the hot demi-glace sauce round.
Time. — 1 hour. Average Cost, is. per lb. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
1040. — MUTTON HAM, TO CURE.
Ingredients. — A leg of mutton, 1 lb. of salt, \ of a lb. of moist sugar,
1 oz. of saltpetre.
Method. — In cool weather let the meat hang for 2 or 3 days. Pound
the ingredients for curing in a mortar, dry them well before the fire,
then rub them into the meat, taking care that the parts surrounding
the knuckle bone arc done thoroughly. Repeat the rubbing every
morning for a fortnight, turning the meat each day. At the end of the
time dry well, rub the centre surface with common salt, let the meat
remain under heavy pressure for 3 or 4 days, and smoke it for at least
10 days before using.
1041. — MUTTON, HASHED. (Fr.— Hachis de Mouton.)
Ingredients. — Cold mutton, pickles, brown sauce, breadcrumbs, salt
and pepper.
RECIPES FOR COOKING MUTTON
601
Method. — Cut the meat into thin slices, and boil the bones and trim-
mings tor stock for the brown sauce, No. 233. Cover the bottom
of a greased pie-dish with a layer of breadcrumbs, add 2 or 3 table-
spoonfuls of brown sauce, and on the top arrange the slices of meat
slightly overlapping each other. Sprinkle with chopped gherkins
(or other pickle), salt and pepper, and cover lightly with the bread-
crumbs and sauze. Repeat the process until the materials are used,
making the top layer a rather thick one of breadcrumbs. Cover with
a greased paper, and bake very gently for about \ an hour. Serve
in the dish in which it is cooked.
Time. — 1 hour. Seasonable at any time.
Note. — The re-heating of cooked meat is more fully dealt with in the
chapters on cooking veal, beef and tinned meats. Recipes will there be found
for curries, croquettes, rissoles, meat shapes, meat cakes, meat croutes.
Hashed Mutton. — Many persons have a decided aversion to hashed mutton : a dislike probably
due to the fact that they have never been properly served with this dish. If, however, the meat
be tender, the gravy well made and abundant, and the sippets nicely toasted, the whole being neatly
served, hashed mutton is not a despicable dish, and is much more w'holesome and more appetising
than the traditional cold shoulder, of which fathers and husbands and their bachelor friends stand
in not unnatural awe.
1042. — MUTTON, IN IMITATION OF VENISON.
(Fr. — Mouton a la Venaison.)
Ingredients. — A neck, loin, or leg of mutton. ^ of a pint of vinegar,
£ of a pint of claret or other red wine, 3 bay-leaves, 3 shallots sliced,
1 teaspoonful of pepper, 1 teaspooniul of pounded allspice.
Method. — Let the meat hang at least 3 or 4 days, then rub it over
with mixed pepper and allspice, and repeat the rubbing at intervals for
48 hours. Mix together the vinegar, wine, shallots and bay-leaves,
baste the meat well with the mixture, and let it remain for 2 days,
basting frequently. When ready, wash in warm water, dry thoroughly,
and enclose in a flour and water paste. Cook according to directions
given for dressing venison, and serve with good gravy and red-cur-
rant jelly.
Time. —About 8 days. Average Cost, iod. to is. per lb. Seasonable
at any time.
1043. — MUTTON, LEG OF, STEWED. (Fr.— Gigot
de Mouton braise.)
Ingredients. — A small leg of mutton boned, stock or water. When
using the latter add 2 onions, 1 carrot, \ a turnip, a bouquet-garni
(parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 10 peppercorns. For the forcemeat :
£ of a lb. of mutton trimmings, £ of a lb. of raw ham or bacon, 1 Spanish
onion finely-chopped, a clove of garlic bruised, salt and pepper. For
the sauce: iC ozs. of butter, i£ ozs. of flour, 1 pint of stock, slices of
fat bacon.
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
602
Method. — Remove any superfluous fat, and from the cavity from
which the bone was taken trim off the lean meat needed for the force-
meat. Chop both bacon and mutton finely, add the onion, garlic, and
a good seasoning of salt and pepper, moisten with a little stock ; and
fill the cavity with the mixture. Secure any opening that would allow
the forcemeat to escape, and bind the meat into a good shape with
strong string. Put the meat into a stewpan containing hot stock,
or vegetables and hot water to half cover the meat, lay slices of fat
bacon on the top of it, and put on a close-fitting lid. Stew very
gently for 4 hours, adding more stock or water when necessary.
Half an hour before serving heat the butter in a stewpan, add the
flour and stir and cook slowly until well-browned. Remove the string
from the meat and keep hot ; strain 1 pint of the stock on to the
browned flour and butter, stir until boiling, and season to taste. The
meat may either be glazed or served with a little of the sauce poured
over, and the remainder sent to table in a tureen.
Time. — About 4 hours. Average Cost, iod. per lb. Sufficient 1 leg
for 10 or more persons. Seasonable at any dime.
1044. — MUTTON, MINCED. (Fr. — Emince deMouton.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of cooked mutton cut into very small dice, 1 small
onion finely-chopped, f of a pint of stock made from bones and trim-
mings, J of an oz. of butter, \ an oz. of flour, 1 tablespoonful of walnut
liquor, mushroom ketchup or some sharp sauce, salt and pepper,
cooked macaroni ( see “ Breast of Lamb, Milanaise Style ”).
Method. — Melt the butter in a stewpan, fry the onion until lightly
browned, add the flour and brown it also. Stir in the stock, add the
walnut liquor and seasoning to taste, and simmer gently for 10 minutes.
Put in the meat, draw the stewpan aside, where the contents will be
kept just below simmering point, and let it remain for at least \ an
hour. Arrange the macaroni in the form of a border, place the mince
in the centre, and serve. If preferred, mashed potato or sippets of
toasted bread may be substituted for the macaroni.
Time. — From to \\ hours. Average Cost, 6d. or 7d., exclusive of
the meat. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.
1045. — MUTTON, MINCE OF, BAKED.
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of cooked mutton finely-minced, 3 tablespoonfuls
of white breadcrumbs, 1 tablespoonful of browned breadcrumbs, 1 tea-
spoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 1 shallot very finely minced, 1 egg,
salt and pepper, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, gravy, a little
butter or fat.
Method. — Coat a plain mould or round cake-tin rather thickly with
butter or fat, and cover it lightly with browned breadcrumbs. Mix the
RECIPES FOR COOKING MUTTON
603
meat, white breadcrumbs, parsley and shallot well together, season
rather highly with salt and pepper, and add the egg, mushroom ketchup,
and sufficient gravy to slightly moisten the whole. Turn the mixture
into the prepared tin, bake gently from 1 to ij hours, then unmould
carefully, and serve with good gravy.
Time. — To bake, from 1 to ij hours. Average Cost, about is. Sufli-
ient for three persons. Seasonable at any time.
1046. — MUTTON PUDDING. (Fr. — Pouding de Mou-
ton.)
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of lean mutton ( see “ Fillet, to Dress ”), suet
paste, ( see Paste section) salt and pepper.
Method. — Follow directions given for “ Beef Steak Pudding.” A
little kidney will be found a great improvement.
Time. — About 4 hours. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for 5 or 6
persons. Seasonable at any time.
1047. — MUTTON, RECHAUFFE OF. (Fr.— Rechauffe
de Mouton.)
Ingredients. — Slices of cold mutton, 1 onion finely-chopped, a few
slices of carrot, a few slices of turnip, £ of a pint of stock made from
bones and trimmings, 1 ^ ozs. of butter, i-J ozs. of flour, 1 tablespoonful
of mushroom ketchup or some sharp sauce, salt and pepper.
Method.— Simmer the bones, meat trimmings, turnip and carrot
in just sufficient water to cover them for at least 1 hour, then strain
and season to taste. Heat the butter, fry the onion until lightly
browned, add the flour, stir and cook slowly until brown, and put
in £ of a pint of stock. Stir until boiling, season to taste, add the
mushroom ketchup, and boil gently for 10 minutes. Place the slices
of meat in the prepared sauce, let the stewpan stand for at least \
an hour, where the contents will remain just below simmering point,
then arrange the meat neatly on a hot dish, and strain the sauce over.
Time. — Altogether, about 2 hours. Average Cost, about is 8d. for a
dish. Sufficient for 4 persons.
1048. — MUTTON, ROLL OF. (Fr.— Roulade de
Mouton.)
Ingredients. — 3 lb. of lean mutton, 1 lb. of ham or bacon finely-chopped,
4 tablespoonfuls of breadcrumbs, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley,
\ a teaspoonful of powdered mixed herbs, \ a teaspoonful of finely-
grated lemon-rind, \ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped shallot or onion,
a good pinch of nutmeg, salt and pepper, 1 or 2 eggs, stock, gravy or
sauce, fat for basting.
604
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Chop the meat finely, or pass it 2 or 3 times through a
mincing machine. Mix with it all the dry ingredients enumerated
above, and season somewhat liberally with salt and pepper. Add
1 large or 2 small eggs, and enough stock to gradually moisten the
whole, then form the mixture into a short thick roll. Enclose in
3 or 4 folds of greased paper, bake in a moderate oven for about 2
hours, and baste frequently meanwhile. Half an hour before serving
remove the paper, and either dredge the roll lightly with flour, or coat
it with egg and breadcrumbs. Serve with good gravy or brown sauce.
Time. — To cook, about 2 hours. Average Cost, 4s. Sufficient for 7 or 8
persons. Seasonable at any time.
Note. — Underdone cold mutton may be utilized in this way, and the ham
or bacon may be either raw or cooked. When cold materials are used, the
roll should be cooked for about 1 hour.
1049. — MUTTON SAUSAGES. (Fr.— Saucisses de Mou-
ton.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of lean, raw or underdone mutton, 2 ozs. of finely-
chopped ham or bacon, 4 ozs. of finely-chopped suet, 4 ozs. of bread-
crumbs, 2 ozs. of finely-chopped mushrooms, 1 teaspoonful of finely-
chopped parsley, \ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped shallot or onion,
£ a teaspoonful of powdered mixed herbs, salt and pepper, 2 eggs, stock,
sausage-skins.
Method. — Chop the meat finely, mix with it the rest of the dry ingredi-
ents, seasoning liberally with salt and pepper. Stir in the eggs and as
much stock as is necessary to slightly moisten the whole. Press the
mixture lightly into skins, or, if more convenient, form it into cork-
shaped pieces or small cakes. Fry in hot butter or fat.
Xjme. — Jo fry, 8 to 10 minutes. Average Cost, is. 8d. to is. iod.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.
1050. — MUTTON, SCRAG OF, TO COOK.
Ingredients. — The scrag end of a neck, slices of bacon, stock or
water, 2 onions sliced, 2 carrots sliced, \ a turnip sliced, a bouquet-
garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 10 peppercorns, salt, 1 egg, bread-
crumbs, frying-fat.
Method.— Wash the extreme end of the neck in salt and warm water,
saw the rib bones across, and remove the short ends. Place the vege-
tables in a stewpan just large enough to hold the meat, lay the meat
on the top, cover with slices of bacon, and add the herbs, peppercorns
and either stock or water to nearly cover the vegetables. Put on a close-
fitting lid, cook very gently for 2\ hours, then coat with egg and bread-
crumbs, and bake in a quick oven until nicely browned. Serve with
brown sauce, or any sauce of which the stock used in cooking the meat
may form the base.
Time. — About 3 hours. Average Cost, 6-id. per lb.
RECIPES FOR COOKING MUTTON
605
1051. — MUTTON WITH VINAIGRETTE SAUCE.
(Fr. — Mouton a la Vinaigrette.)
Ingredients.— 8-9 slices of cooked mutton, sliced gherkin, capers, salad.
For the sauce: 4 tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar
(preferably tarragon), \ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped gherkin, -J- a
teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 4 a teaspoonful of finely-chopped
shallot or onion, salt and pepper.
Method. — Mix the sauce ingredients together, adding salt and pepper
to taste. Arrange the meat neatly on the dish to be sent to table, pour
the sauce over, and put aside for at least 1 hour. Garnish with sliced
gherkin, capers, and small tufts of salad, and serve the rest of the
salad separately.
Time. — About 1^ hours. Average Cost, is. 9d. to 2s. Sufficient for
6 persons.
1052. — NECK OF MUTTON, BRAISED, WITH BROWN
CAPER SAUCE. ( Fr . — Carre de Mouton
Braise aux Capres.)
Ingredients. — The best end of a neck of mutton, 3 ozs. of butter,
2 ozs. of flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of capers, 1 tablespoonful of caper
vinegar, i| pints of stock or water, 2 onions, 2 carrots, 1 small turnip,
2 stalks of celery, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 6 pepper-
corns, 2 cloves, meat glaze, salt and pepper.
Method. — Trim the meat, saw the rib bones across, remove the short
bones, and fold the flap under. Slice the vegetables, put them into
a stewpan with 1 oz. of butter, the herbs, peppercorns, and cloves,
lay the meat on the top, put on the lid of the stewpan, and cook gently
for -J- an hour. The vegetables must be occasionallv stirred or shaken,
and when sufficiently fried, add stock to cover them, and the
remainder as that in the pan reduces. Cover the meat with a buttered
paper, and cook gently for about 2 hours. Fry the flour and remain-
ing 2 ozs. of butter together until a brown roux is formed. When
the meat is ready, transfer it to a hot dish, brush it over with the
stock reduced to glaze, and keep it hot. Strain the liquor on to the
brown roux, stir until boiling, season to taste, simmer for five minutes,
then add the capers, and serve in a sauce-boat. If preferred, glaz-
ing the meat may be omitted, and a little sauce poured over instead.
Time. — To cook, about 2 hours. Average Cost, is. per lb. Allow
3 lbs. for 6 or 7 persons.
1053. — NECK OF MUTTON, BROWNED. (Fr.— Carre
de Mouton roti au four.)
Ingredients. — Best end of a neck of mutton, stock, 2 ozs. of butter,
6o6
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
2 ozs. of flour, i egg, breadcrumbs, i teaspoonful of finely-chopped
parsley, ^ of a tcaspoonful of powdered mixed herbs, pepper and salt,
frying-fat.
Method. — Saw the rib bones across, remove the short ends, fold the
flap under, and bind securely. Place the meat in a stewpan containing
as much boiling stock (or boiling water and usual flavouring vegetables)
as will barely cover it, simmer gently for i hour, then drain well. Beat
the egg, add the parsley, herbs, and a good seasoning of salt and pepper,
and coat the meat thickly with the mixture. Cover lightly with bread-
crumbs, and bake in a moderately hot oven until well-browned, mean-
while basting frequently with hot fat. Heat the butter in a stewpan,
add the flour, stir and cook slowly until well-browned, and add i pint
of boiling stock from the larger stewpan. Stir until boiling, season
to taste, simmer gently until required, and serve separately.
Time. — About hours. Average Cost, 6d., in addition to the meat,
which will cost from iod. to is. per lb. Sufficient for 4 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
Woollen Manufactures. — The woollen industry was the earliest, and, at one period, the most
important of English manufactures, until the great development of cotton manufactures at the early
part of the nineteenth century. During the Middle Ages English wool was esteemed the best in
Europe. Flemish weavers came to England at the time of the Norman Conquest, and later on, in
the reign of Edward III, the settlement of a number of Flemish cloth workers gave the first effective
impulse to the woollen industry. Many legislative enactments were passed from time to time for
the encouragement and protection of this important manufacture, and it was not until 1824 that a
law prohibiting the export of wool was repealed. The distinction between wool and hair is rather
arbitrary than natural, wool being in reality a modified form of hair, and similar to it in its chemical
composition. It is characterized by a greater fineness in its fibre, by its softness and pliability, and
also by being more scaly than common hair, which gives it its special felting property. The sheep,
the llama, the Angora goat, and the goat of Tibet, are animals from which most of the wool used in
manufactures is obtained, the last named furnishing the fine wool from which Cashmire shawls are
made. Of European wools, the finest is yielded by the Merino sheep, the Spanish and Saxon breeds
taking the preference. The Merino sheep, now naturalized in Australia, from whence large quantities
of wool are exported, supplies an excellent fleece ; but all varieties of sheep-wool, reared whether in
Europe or Australia, are less soft to the touch than that grown in India, or than the wool of the
Jlama of the Andes. The best of our British wools are inferior in fineness of texture to any of
the above-mentioned varieties, but for the ordinary* purposes of the manufacturer they are unri-
valled.
1054.— NECK OF MUTTON, TO ROAST. (Fr. — Carre
de Mouton Roti.)
Ingredients. — Best end of the neck of mutton, fat for basting, salt and
pepper.
Method. — Saw the rib bones across, remove the short ends, fold the
flap under, and fasten securely. Roast in front of a clear fire, or, if
more convenient, bake in a moderately hot oven, in either case basting
frequently with hot fat {see “ Roast Mutton ” and “ Notes on Roast-
ing,” p. 428). Serve with good gravy and, if liked, onion sauce.
Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, iod. to is. per lb. Sufficient
for 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.
1055.— OXFORD JOHN.
Ingredients. — Thin slices off a well-hung leg of mutton, 2 ozs. of butter,
RECIPES FOR COOKING MUTTON 607
| of an oz. of flour, \ a pint of good gravy or stock, 1 tablespoonful of
finely-chopped ham or bacon, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley,
1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped shallot or onion, \ a teaspoonful of
powdered mixed herbs, salt and pepper, 1 tcaspoonful of lemon-juice.
Method. — Cut the meat into rounds about 3 inches in diameter,
and season well with salt and pepper. Mix the ham, parsley, shallot,
herbs, and a little salt and pepper together, spread the mixture on one
side of the meat, and pile the pieces one above the other. Let them
remain for at least 1 hour, then separate them and fry quickly in hot
butter. Remove and keep them hot, sprinkle in the flour, which
the butter should completely moisten, otherwise more must be added,
brown well, and add the stock. Stir until boiling, season to taste,
add the lemon -juice, and replace the meat. Let the stewpan stand
for 10 or 15 minutes, where the contents will be kept just below
simmering point, then serve.
Time. — Altogether, about 2 hours. Average Cost, iod. to is. per lb.
Allow 1 lb. for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.
1056. — RAGOUT OF COLD MUTTON.
Ingredients.—The remains of a saddle, loin or neck of mutton, 1 onion
shredded, 1 carrot cut into dice, -} a turnip cut into dice, 2 ozs. of
butter or fat, 1 oz. of flour, of a pint of gravy, stock or water, salt
and pepper.
Method.— Divide the meat into cutlets, and trim away some of the
fat. Heat the butter or fat in a stewpan, fry the meat quickly on both
sides, then take it out, and put in the onion. Fry until lightly browned,
sprinkle in the flour, and when well-browned add the stock or water.
Boil up, season to taste, add the trimmings of carrot and turnip, and
replace the meat. Cover closely, cook very gently for 1 hour, then
arrange the cutlets neatly on a hot dish, strain the sauce over, and serve
garnished with the vegetable dice, which must have been meanwhile
boiled in salted water.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 6d., in addition to the meat
and gravy. Allow 1 lb. to 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.
1057. — ROAST HAUNCH OF MUTTON.
( Fr . — Hanche de Mouton Rotie.)
Ingredients.— A haunch of mutton.
Method. — This joint requires great care in roasting, for if cooked too
quickly the loin is overdone while the thick part of the leg remains
insufficiently cooked. This may be remedied to some extent by en-
closing the loin in several thicknesses of well-greased paper, also by
hanging the thick part of the leg where it will receive the hottest rays
of heat from the fire. Follow directions given for “ Roast Mutton,”
also see “ Notes on Roasting,” p. 428.
6o8
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Time. — About 15 minutes per lb. Average Cost, iod. per lb. Suffi-
cient for 12 or more persons according to size of joint. Seasonable
from June to January.
1058. — ROAST MUTTON. (Fr. — Mouton r5ti.)
When possible, mutton should be roasted before the fire, for this
method of cooking imparts a more delicate and better flavour to the
meat. Whatever the joint, it should be well basted with hot fat
before setting the roasting-jack in motion ; and for 10 or 15 minutes
it must be placed quite close to a clear, bright fire, in order to quickly
form a hard surface layer, {see “Notes on Roasting,” p. 428). The
meat revolves too quickly for it to become over-browned in a short
space of time. During the first few minutes the joint should be almost
constantly basted, and afterwards at short intervals. The time re-
quired for roasting depends principally upon the condition of the fire
and the form or the size of the joint {see pp. 428).
How to buy Meat Economically. — If the housekeeper is not very particular as to the precise
joints she wishes to cook for dinner, there is frequently an opportunity for her to save money in her
purchases. For instance, the butcher may have an over supply of certain joints, and will, to get rid
of these, make a reduction, sometimes to the extent of id. or i£d. per lb. It often happens that in
consequence of a demand for legs and loins of mutton butchers have only shoulders left, and theso
they are glad to dispose of at a reduction, especially in very cold weather.
1059. — SADDLE OF MUTTON, TO ROAST.
( Fr . — Selle de Mouton Rotie.)
Ingredients. — Saddle of mutton, salt and pepper, fat for basting,
gravy, red-currant jelly.
Method. — Remove the skin, pare off any superfluous fat, and take
away the fat and kidneys from the inside. Fold the flaps under,
bind securely in shape, and cover the back with several folds of greased
paper. Roast in front of a clear fire, basting frequently, or, if more
convenient, bake in a moderately hot oven {see “ Roast Mutton ” and
“ Notes on Roasting,” p. 428). Serve with good gravy and red-currant
jelly.
Time.— About 15 minutes per lb. Average Cost, is. per lb. Sufficient
for from 12 to 18 persons, according to weight. Seasonable at any
time.
1060. — SCOTCH HAGGIS.
Ingredients.— A sheep’s paunch and pluck, 1 lb. of finely-chopped beef
suet, \ a pint of oatmeal, 2 finely-chopped Spanish onions, 2 table-
spoonfuls of salt, 1 teaspoonful of pepper, \ a nutmeg finely-grated,
1 \ pints of good stock or gravy, the juice of 1 lemon.
Method. — Soak the paunch for several hours in salt and water, then
turn it inside out, and wash it thoroughly in several waters. Wash
the pluck, cover the liver with cold water, boil it for i|- hours, and
JOINTS
i. — Roast Loin of Pork.
4- — Round of Beef.
8. — Sirloin of Beef.
2. — Roast Haunch of Mutton. 3. — Roast Aitchbone of Beef.
5- — Leg of Mutton. 6. — Calf’s Head. 7 —Ham.
9. — Shoulder of Mutton. 10. — Saddle of Murton.
RECIPES FOR COOKING MUTTON
609
at the end of f of an hour add to it the heart and lights. Chop half
the liver, chop the remainder and the heart and lights finely, mix all
together, add the oatmeal, onions, salt, pepper, nutmeg, lemon-juice
and stock. Turn these ingredients into the paunch, sew up the opening,
taking care that sufficient space is left for the oatmeal to swell: if the
paunch be over-full, there is a possibility of its bursting. Put the haggis
into boiling water, and cook gently for about 3 hours ; during the
first hour it should be occasionally pricked with a needle, to allow the
air to escape. As a rule, neither sauce nor gravy is served with a haggis.
When a small dish is required, a lamb’s paunch and pluck may be
substituted for those of the sheep’s.
Time. — To boil the haggis, 3 hours. Average Cost, 2s. 9d. to 3s. 9d.
Sufficient for 8 or 9 persons.
1061.— SHEEP’S BRAINS WITH PARSLEY SAUCE.
(Fr.— Cervelles de Mouton a la Maitre
d’Hotel.)
Ingredients. — 6 sheep’s brains, 1 pint of white stock, 2 ozs. of butter,
1 \ ozs. of flour, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 1 teaspoonful
of lemon-juice, \ a small onion, 1 small carrot, 1 bay-leaf, salt and
pepper.
Method. — Soak the brains in salt and water for 2 hours, then remove
the skin and fibres, cover them with boiling water, and boil for 3
minutes. Replace the brains in fresh cold water, let them remain
until cold, then put them into the boiling stock, add the onion and carrot
sliced, bay-leaf, salt and pepper to taste, and simmer gently for 20
minutes. Meanwhile, melt the butter in a stewpan, add the flour,
and cook these for 3 or 4 minutes without browning. Drain the brains,
and strain the stock on to the flour and butter, stir until boiling, simmer
for 10 minutes, add the lemon-juice and seasoning to taste. Re-heat
the brains in the sauce, and just before serving add the lemon-juice.
Time. — About \ an hour, after the brains are blanched. Average
Cost, is. 9d. to 2s. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
The Ettrick Shepherd. — James Hogg, more commonly known as the “ Ettrick Shepherd,”
from the place of his birth in Selkirkshire, was one of the most remarkable men who ever wore the
shepherd’s maud. Under the garb, aspect, and bearing of an uncultured peasant — for his early
education was of the most scanty description — the world discovered a true poet. Sir Walter Scott,
who became interested in Hogg through some of his rhymings which came to the baronet’s notice,
induced him to publish a volume of ballads, under the title of the Mountain Bard. The Queen s
Wake, which contains the charming ballad of ” Kilmeny,” appeared in 1813, and established Hogg’s
reputation. It was followed by other poetic and prose works, including The Pilgrims of the Sun,
The Border Garland, Lay Sermons, etc. His poetry is characterized by richness of description, deli-
cate imagination, and sweet intensity of pathos. If the shepherd of Professor Wilson’s 44 Nodes
Ambrosianae ” i nay be regarded as a true portrait of James Hogg, the poet of Ettrick Forest possessed
a rare quaintness of humour. Sir Walter Scott affirmed that Hogg’s innumerable little touches of
absurdity afforded him more entertainment than the most laughable comedy. Among the pro-
ductions of the shepherd-poet is an account of his own experiences in sheep-tending, called The Shep-
herd's Calendar. This work contains a vast amount of useful information on sheep, their diseases,
habits, and management. The Ettrick Shepherd died in 1835.
X
6io
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1062. — SHEEP’S BRAINS WITH MATELOTE SAUCE.
(Fr. — Cervelles de Mouton en Matelote.)
Ingredients. — 6 sheep’s brains, vinegar, salt, a few slices of bacon,
1 small onion, 2 cloves, a small bunch of parsley, sufficient stock or
weak broth to cover the brains, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, mate-
lote sauce ( see Sauces).
Method. — Detach the brains from the heads without breaking them,
remove the skin, cover with warm water, and let them remain for 2
hours. Have ready a saucepan of boiling water, add a little vinegar
and salt, and put in the brains. When they are quite firm take them
out, and put them into very cold water. Place 2 or 3 slices of bacon
in a stewpan, put in the brains, the onion stuck with 2 cloves, the
parsley, and a good seasoning of pepper and salt. Cover with stock
or weak broth, and boil them gently for about 25 minutes. Have
ready some fried bread croutons, arrange them in a dish alternately
with the brains, and cover with a matelote sauce, to which the lemon-
juice has been added.
Time. — 25 minutes after the brains are blanched. Average Cost,
2s. 6d. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
1063. — SHEEP’S HEAD, TO DRESS. (Fr.—Tete de
Mouton.)
Ingredients. — A sheep’s head, 2 tablespoonfuls of pearl barley or rice,
2 onions, 2 small carrots, 1 small turnip, a bouquet-garni (parsley
thyme, bay-leaf), 10 peppercorns, salt and pepper. For the sauce:
| pint of liquor the head was cooked in, 1% ozs. of butter, 1^- ozs. of
flour.
Method. — Cut the head in half, remove the brains, wash them and
put them into cold water, with a little salt. Wash the head in several
waters, carefully remove any splintered bones, and let it soak in salt
and water for 1 hour. Cover with cold water, bring to the boil, pour
away the water, replace with fresh cold water, add the bouquet-garni,
peppercorns and salt, boil up, and skim well. The head must be
cooked slowly for about 3 hours ; i\ hours before serving add the
vegetables sliced, with the rice or barley, and when the latter is used
it must be previously blanched. Remove the skin and fibres from the
brains, tie them in muslin, boil them for 10 or 15 minutes in the liquor,
then chop them coarsely. Heat the butter in a stewpan, add the flour,
stir over the fire for 2 or 3 minutes, then add | of a pint of liquor from
the pot, simmer for 10 minutes, add the brains, season to taste, and
keep hot until required. When ready, bone the head, put the meat
in the centre of a hot dish, pour the sauce over, and garnish with slices
of tongue and the vegetables. Serve the broth separately.
RECIPES FOR COOKING MUTTON
6n
Time.— To cook, about 3 hours. Average Cost, is. 3d. to is. 6d.
Sufficient for 2 or 3 persons.
Singed Sheep’s Head. — The village of Dudingston, now a suburb of Edinburgh was formerly
celebrated for this ancient and homely Scottish dish. It was the custom during the summer months
for the well-to-do citizens to resort to this place and regale themselves with sheep’s heads, boiled
or baked. The sheep pastured on the neighbouring hills were slaughtered at the village, the carcasses
were sent to town, but the heads were reserved for consumption by the visitors to Dudingston.
1064. — SHEEP’S HEART. ( Fr . — Coeur de Mouton.)
Ingredients. — 1 sheep’s heart, veal forcemeat (see Forcemeat), dripping
for basting.
Method. — Soak the heart for 1 hour in warm water. Cut off the
deaf ears, any cartilage or gristle there may be, and the muscular wall
dividing the cavities of the heart, and boil them down for gravy. Dry
the heart thoroughly, fill the inside with forcemeat, and tie a greased
paper round the base to keep in the forcemeat. Heat 2 or 3 ozs. of
dripping in a baking-tin, baste the heart well, and bake in a moderate
oven for about 1^ hours. Gentle cooking and frequent basting are
necessary to prevent the heart becoming dry and hard. When done,
drain off the fat, but leave the sediment, pour in the prepared gravy,
boil up, season to taste, and either pour over the heart or serve separ-
ately. The excellence of this dish depends mainly on its being served
as hot as possible.
Time. — To bake, about 1 hour. Average Cost, 9d. to is. Sufficient
for 2 persons.
Note. — Sheep’s hearts may also be stuffed with onion farce (see “ Bullock’s
Heart, Roasted ”) ; if more convenient, they may be cooked in an iron sauce-
pan over or by the side of" the tire, care being taken to baste them liberally
with dripping all the time.
1065. — SHEEP’S TAILS. (Fr. — Queues de Mouton.)
Sheep’s tails may be dressed as directed in the recipes for “ Sheep’s
Tongues, Braised,” and “ Sheep’s Tongues, Fried.” Instead of being
braised, they may be stewed in good stock until tender, and served
with a vegetable garnish and brown sauce.
1066. — SHEEP’S TONGUES, BRAISED. (Fr.— Lan-
gues de Mouton Braisees.)
Ingredients. — 4 sheep’s tongues, -f of a pint of brown sauce (see Sauces),
glaze. For the mirepoix, or foundation : 1 oz. of butter, 1 or 2 slices
of bacon, 1 onion, 1 carrot, i a turnip, 1 or 2 strips of celery, a bouquet-
garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 6 peppercorns, \ a pint of stock.
Method. — Soak the tongues in salt and water for 2 hours, blanch
and fry them thoroughly. Slice the vegetables, put them into a stew-
pan with the butter, bouquet-garni, and peppercorns, lay the tongues
6l2
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
on the top, put on the lid, and cook gently for 20 minutes. Then add
hot stock to nearly cover the vegetables, lay the bacon on the top of
the tongues, cover with a greased paper, put on the lid, and cook gently
for 2\ hours, or until the tongues are tender. When ready, skin
them, slit them in halves lengthwise, brush over with warm glaze,
place them on a buttered paper on a baking-sheet, and put them into
a moderate oven for a few minutes to re-heat. Dish in 2 rows on a bed
of mashed potato, or a puree of spinach, pour a little hot sauce round,
and serve the remainder in a sauce-boat.
Time. — About 3 hours. Average Cost, is. iod. to 2s. 2d. Sufficient for
5 or 6 persons.
1067. — SHEEP’S TONGUES, FRIED. (Fr.— Langues
de Mouton f rites.)
Ingredients. — 4 sheep’s tongues, J of a pint of tomato or piquante
sauce-, 3 ozs. of butter, breadcrumbs, mirepoix of vegetables, as in
preceding recipe.
Method. — Braise the tongues as directed in the preceding recipe.
Warm the butter, dip each half tongue in it, and coat these with bread-
crumbs, pressing them firmly on with a knife. Turn the butter into
a saute-pan, and fry the tongues until the entire surface is lightly
browned. Dish on a bed of spinach or green-pea puree, and serve the
sauce round the base of the dish.
Time. — About 3 hours. Average Cost, qd. each. Sufficient for 5 or 6
persons.
1068. — SHEEP’S TROTTERS, STEWED. (Fr— Pieds
de Mouton en Ragout.)
Ingredients. — 2 gangs (8) of dressed trotters, 1 small onion, 1 table-
spoonful of flour, milk, salt and pepper.
Method. — Wash the trotters, put them into a stewpan, cover them
with milk and water in equal proportions, add the onion sliced, season
with salt and pepper, cover, and cook gently for about 3 hours, or
until the bones may be easily removed. Take away the bones, strain
the liquor if necessary, add milk to increase the quantity to § of a pint,
return it to the stewpan, and re-heat. Mix the flour smoothly with
a little milk, pour it into the stewpan, stir until boiling, simmer for
10 minutes, and season to taste. Replace the trotters, and when
thoroughly hot, serve.
Time. — From 3 to 3^ hours. Average Cost, is. 2d. to is. 6d. Sufficient
for 2 or 3 persons.
Note. — Sheep’s trotters may also be boiled in stock or water until the bones
are easily removed, and afterwards marinaded and fried in batter. Or they
may be stuffed with sausage meat or veal forcemeat, and either coated with
egg and breadcrumbs, or dipped into batter and fried in hot fat. (See recipes
for cooking calf’s feet and cow-heel.)
RECIPES FOR COOKING MUTTON
C13
1069. — SHEPHERD’S PIE.
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of cold mutton, 1 lb. of mashed potato, 1 oz.
of butter or dripping, \ a pint of gravy or stock, 1 teaspoonful of par-
boiled and finely-chopped onion, salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the meat into small thin slices. Melt half the butter
or fat in a stewpan, add to it the potato, salt and pepper, and stir
over the fire until thoroughly mixed. Grease a pie-dish, line the
bottom thinly with potato, put in the meat, sprinkle each layer with
onion, salt and pepper, pour in the gravy, and cover with potato.
The potato covering may be given a rough appearance by scoring i't in
every direction with a fork, or it may be made to resemble an ordinary
crust by being smoothed over with a knife, notched at the edges, and
brushed over with the yolk of egg before baking. When egg is not
used for this purpose, the remainder of the butter or fat must be put
on the top of the pie in small pieces. Bake in a moderate oven until
the surface is well-browned.
Time. — To bake, from 30 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, iod. to is.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
1070. — SPICED MUTTON. ( Fr . — Mouton Epice.)
Ingredients. — A boned leg or shoulder of mutton, 8 ozs. of common
salt, 1 oz. of bay-salt, i of an oz. of saltpetre, 4 ozs. of moist sugar,
1 teaspoonful of pepper, 1 dessertspoonful of finely-chopped shallot or
onion, 1 saltspoonful of powdered allspice, 1 saltspoonful of powdered
cloves.
Method. — Mix the ingredients together, rub the preparation well into
the meat, and repeat daily for a fortnight. When ready, rinse in warm
water, and bind into a good shape with strong tape. Cook very gently
for 5 or 6 hours in good stock, or water flavoured with vegetables, press
between 2 dishes until cold, glaze, and use as required.
Time. — To pickle, 14 days. To cook, 5 to 6 hours. Average Cost,
iod. to is. per lb. Seasonable at any time.
1071. — SQUAB PIE.
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of neck of mutton, 2 lb. of apples sliced, 1 lb. of
onions sliced, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, sugar, salt and
pepper, suet paste (see Pastes).
Method. — Divide the neck into cutlets, place them in a piedish, and
season rather well with salt and pepper. Add the apples and onions
in layers, sprinkle with sugar, and half fill the dish with boiling water.
Bake in the oven for about 1 \ hours. Before serving, pour the gravy
out at the side, skim off all the fat, add the mushroom ketchup,
season to taste, and return to the pie. Serve hot. Bake in the
oven for about 1^ hours.
Time. — Two hours. Average Cost, 2s. 3d. Sufficient for 5 or 6 per-
sons. Seasonable at any time.
614 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1072. — TIMBALES OF MUTTON, MERIDIONAL
STYLE. (Fr. — Timbales a la Meridionale.)
Ingredients. — f of a lb. of lean tender mutton, 8 or 9 Spanish olives,
2 tablespoonfuls of Espagnole Sauce, No. 244, 1 tablespoonful of cream,
1 tablespoonful of sherry or Madeira, an oz. of butter, 2 eggs, 2 or 3
tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce. No. 281, nutmeg, salt and pepper.
£ of a pint of demi-glace sauce, No. 242.
Method. — Pass the meat 2 or 3 times through a mincing machine,
pound it in a mortar until quite smooth, then add the eggs one at a
time, and the butter, Espagnole sauce, cream and wine. Season
to taste with salt and pepper, add a pinch of nutmeg, pound until
smooth, and pass through a wire sieve. Butter 8 or 9 small dariol
moulds, fill them with this preparation, leaving a small hollow in the
centre of each, in which place a teaspoonful of tomato sauce and an olive
filled with a little of the meat farce. Cover with farce, place the
moulds in a saute-pan containing boiling water to half their depth,
bring to the boil on the stove, then cover with a greased paper, and finish
cooking in a moderately hot oven. Serve with the demi-glace sauce
poured over them.
Time.— To cook, about 20 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. 9d. to 3s.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable at any time.
1073. — TONGUES IN PAPER CASES. (Fr. — Langues
de Mouton en Papillotes.)
Ingredients. — Sheep’s tongues, stock. To 2 or 3 tongues allow \ a
pint of brown sauce, No. 233, \ an oz. of butter, 1 tablespoonful of
chopped mushroom, 1 shallot finely-chopped.
Method.— Soak the tongues in salted water for 2 or 3 hours, and
afterwards simmer them in stock for about 2 hours, or until tender.
Skin them, cut them in halves, and trim away all the root of the tongue.
Heat the butter, fry the shallot lightly, add the mushroom, toss over
the fire for 2 or 3 minutes, then put in the sauce and bring to the boil.
Have ready some well-oiled sheets of foolscap paper, lay half a tongue
in each, adding a little of the prepared sauce. -Fold neatly, place the
cases on a baking-sheet, cover with 3 or 4 folds of greased paper, bake
gently for 15 minutes, then serve in the cases.
Time. — To simmer, about 2 hours. To bake, 15 minutes. Average
Cost, qd. each. Allow one case for each person.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS
ON THE COMMON HOG.
CHAPTER XX
General Observations on the Various Breeds of Home
and Foreign Pigs, Manner of Cutting Up, Table of
Prices, etc.
The hog belongs to the class Mammalia, the order Ungulata, the
genus Sus Scrota, or swine, and the species Pachydermata, or thick-
skinned. Its generic characters are a small head with a flexible snout.
When fully matured, say at twenty months old, it has 44 teeth,
viz. 24 molars, 4 canine teeth, 4 tusks, 4 corners and 8 incisors. The
hog is one of the few animals which possess teeth at birth. These
number four above and four in the lower jaw, and are so sharp when
the date of parturition exceeds the normal period, that it is frequently
necessary to break them off in order to prevent the little newly-born
pig biting the udder of its mother or the cheeks of its young neigh-
bour. By the time the pigling has arrived at the age of four or five
weeks, twelve of the temporary molars will have appeared, and the
eight temporary incisors be developed. The principal changes in the
dentition of pigs take place at periods of about three months, so that
all the temporary teeth will be present by the time the pig is a year
old, and all the permanent teeth in evidence at eighteen months,
although these will not be fully grown until the pig has reached the
age of about twenty months. Our veterinary surgeons declare that
the variations in the dentition of pigs arc less than in any of our domes-
ticated animals, but this opinion is strongly contested by exhibitors
of pigs.
From the number and position of the teeth physiologists are enabled
to define the nature and functions of the animal ; and from those
of the hog it is evident that he is as much of a grinder as a biter, or can
live as well on vegetable as on animal food, though a mixture of both
is plainly indicated as the character of food most conducive to the
proper maintenance of its physical system.
Though the hoof of the pig is as a general rule cloven, there are
several remarkable exceptions, as in some of the pigs in the United
States, Norway, Illyria, Sardinia, etc., in which the hoof is entire and
uncleft.
615
6i6
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Few domestic animals are so profitable or so useful to man as the
much-maligned pig, and no other yields him a more varied or more
luxurious repast. The prolificacy of the pig is extraordinary ; even
this is increased when the pig is under domestication, but when left
to run wild in favourable situations, as in the islands of the South
Pacific, the result in a few years from two animals put on shore and
left undisturbed, is truly surprising, since they breed so fast and have
such large litters, that unless killed off in vast numbers both for the
use of the inhabitants and as fresh provisions for ships’ crews, they
would degenerate into vermin. In this country the sow usually has
two litters in each year ; the breeding seasons are generally between
January and October ; the period of gestation is about 112 days
or 16 weeks ; the strong and vigorous sow will probably carry its
young a few days longer, whilst the old and young sows, which are not
so vigorous, will generally farrow their pigs a few days before this
period has expired. The number of the litter cast will depend upon
the breed ; the larger and the cross-bred sows will average ten to
twelve in a litter, and the small breeds eight to ten each trip. In-
stances have been recorded of a sow having as many as twenty-three
pigs at one farrowing. Much greater care has of late years been taken
in the selection of young sows from those litters which are the produce
of sows which are not only prolific but which are good sucklers ; by
this means the average number of good pigs in each litter has been
increased, and of course the breeding of pigs has thus been rendered
more profitable.
Even within the last quarter of a century it was frequently declared
that a pig was very subject to many diseases caused by its gluttony
and its manner of hurriedly consuming very large quantities of food.
This idea has become exploded, and it has been proved that it is not
so much the large quantity of food which a pig will consume which
occasiona'ly causes bilious attacks and feverish symptoms which,
if not relieved by medicine and exercise, frequently end in the death
of the pig, but illness is more generally due to injudicious feeding on
too rich foods, and the neglect of giving to the pig some corrective
in the form of coal, cinders, chalk or mere earth whilst the pig is kept
confined to his stye. Another exploded idea is that pigs availed
themselves of every opportunity to rub themselves against any
post or projection in order to open the pores of the skin, blocked up
with mud and to excite perspiration. The fact is the pig does not
perspire ; this renders it so very subject to the risk of death from over
driving in the hottest part of a hot summer’s day. Even this risk is
greatly mitigated, if not wholly avoided, by applying some cold water
to the head of the pig between the ears, whereas if the water be thrown
over the whole of the carcass of the pig, death will almost certainly
follow.
It is a boast of the Chicago pork packers that every particle of the
PIGS
I. Large White Yorkshire. 2. Berkshire.
Y
2
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE COMMON HOG 617
carcass of the pig is converted into something useful. The skin can
be tanned, when it is used to cover saddles, it is also capable of being
dressed and pressed in imitation of well-nigh all fancy skins, crocodile
and other, then it is used in the manufacture of purses, bags, port-
manteaus, the covering of chairs, etc., and even a patent has been
taken out to utilize the skin of the hog in place of the rubber tyres on
the fashionable carriages of the monied classes. The hair of the wild
pigs, and even of the semi-dcmesticated pig in Russia, Servia and
other countries is still used in the making of brushes, as it used to be
largely utilized by shoemakers in the sewing and stitching of boots and
shoes. Prior to the Americans keeping such vast herds of pigs, which
they feed largely on Indian corn or maize, the value of the fat of the
pig was greater than of any other portion, as this was used in the
manufacture of lard for domestic use. Now millions of fat pigs are
annually slaughtered at Chicago and five or six other centres in the
States, where the fat of the pig is rendered and, report has it, mixed
with a considerable proportion of cotton-seed-oil, and exported to this
and other countries as lard. This and the great change in the tastes
and habits of the inhabitants of the British Islands has led to quite
a different type of pig being kept, and to a shortening of the life of an
ordinary pig by at least one-half.
Varieties of the Domesticated Hog. — The distinct varieties of English
hog are comprised in those having their interests looked after by
societies formed for the purpose, amongst others, of keeping a register
of the breeding of the pigs of the following breeds : Berkshire, Large
Black, Tamworth and Yorkshires, subdivided into the Large, Middle
and Small White breeds. There are other local breeds of more or less
importance — the Sussex, the Dorset, the spotted black and white
sandy pig found in Leicestershire, Northamptonshire and Oxford-
shire, the Cumberland, the Lincolnshire or Cambridgeshire, the Welsh
and the Essex. Foreign breeds of pigs, such as the Chinese or the
Neapolitan, the Poland China, have been imported into this country,
but they have been absorbed into the English breeds.
There has not perhaps been so great a change in any of our domesti-
cated varieties of stock as in the pig. This is due to many causes, of
which the two chief are the great change in the style of living amongst
residents in both town and country, and the introduction of the system
of mild curing bacon and hams. Both of these changes date from
about the same period, some thirty-five years ago. The enormous
increase in trade and the consequent large addition to the salaries of
the employees of all classes led to a desire for more expensive kinds
of meat, small joints of finer quality beef, mutton and pork in lieu
of the very general salt pork which used to do duty in the homes of
a large portion of clerks, artisans and mechanics. The system of
mild curing bacon and hams enabled the bacon curers to carry on the
manufacture of cured meats all the year round, so that no difficulty
6i8
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
was experienced by them in satisfying the greatly increased require-
ments of the public, a totally different style of pig was needed for con-
version into bacon, a comparatively speaking light and only partially
fattened pig best suited the tastes of the consumer, who had begun
to look with disfavour on the heavily salted fat pork of the olden days,
when it was actually necessary that the meat should be fat, since the
lean meat became so hard and indigestible when heavily salted. Small
hams, of some 12 to 15 lb., were called for in place of those huge masses
of meat, weighing from 30 to 50 lb., which formerly did duty as hams;
the more expensive cuts of bacon also became in far greater demand
than the cheaper parts of the side of bacon, so that the curers in self-
defence were compelled to ask the breeders of pigs to produce fat pigs
with as much as possible of those parts, such as the ham and lengthy
sides which, when cured, realized the highest price, and which were
most in demand. Again, the demand for the early fattened pig,
weighing some 60 lb. dead weight, increased to an enormous extent
in London and in many other of the large towns ; this too tended
to the reduction in the size of the pig generally bred, as the jointer
or London porket pig is considered to be as profitable an animal to
produce as any of our domesticated animals. The producer of fat
pigs in the Midlands and southern counties of England has therefore
two markets to study — the demand for the porket pig with a carcass
of some 60 lb., and the bacon curers’ and retail butchers’ pig, which
will weigh about 160 lb. when dressed. In the northern counties,
where the temperature is cooler and the general customer of a some-
what different class, fat pigs of 300 lb. are still sought and in common
demand. The severity of labour in the so-called Black Country may
also have some influence on the kind of food required.
The manufacturer of meat, like the producer of any article for con-
sumption, must consult the wants of his customers ; this requirement
has had a strong influence on the form and quality of even our different
breeds of pigs. For instance, the Large White Yorkshire and its ally,
the Lincolnshire and Cambridgeshire, white pigs with many blue
spots on the skin, has of late years become a general favourite amongst
pig breeders, because it has so readily conformed to the present-day
wants, early maturity and quality of meat. In the olden days the
Large White Yorkshire was a quick-growing pig, strong in the bone,
coarse in flesh, skin and hair, and remarkably slow in maturing. At
the present time no variety of pig will so quickly become of the weight
desired by bacon curers and butchers generally ; not only so, but the
form of the carcass and the quality of flesh, skin and bone is equal
to that furnished by any kind of pig. This great change has been
brought about by selecting for breeders those pigs possessing hard
flat bone, thin skin, fine silky hair and early maturity. As can readily
be understood, a pig of this type must be a profitable manufacturer
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE COMMON HOG 619
of meat, since it has to grow nothing which a good cook is unable to
convert into food for man. The present day Large White Yorkshire
has rather a long head with a light jowl, the shoulders are light amd
obliquely laid, the ribs are well sprung and deep, the back is long,
the loin is slightly arched and of fair width, the flank is thick — indica-
ting lean flesh and much of it — the quarters are lengthy, the ham
long with meat to the hocks, the bone generally is fine and the hair
white and silky. Both boar and sow are docile and very prolific.
With such characteristics it is bound to be able to furnish a carcass
of pork suited for the London provisioner, the bacon curer or the
butcher in the northern counties, where larger and fatter pigs are in
demand.
The Middle White Yorkshire has of late years been vastly improved,
its early maturity, fine quality of meat and suitability for supplying
the wants of Londoners and dwellers in large towns with small and
luscious joints of pork, has rendered it a general favourite amongst
pig keepers, who have the command of hotel and dairy refuse. Many
thousands of Middle White pigs and crosses of this breed are now
kept in the neighbourhood of large towns and fattened on meal of
various kinds, mixed with soup manufactured from the odds and ends
of bread, meat, potatoes, etc., collected daily from the large hotels
and other public and private establishments ; this collection of bread,
bones, etc., is thoroughly steamed or boiled, then the bones or pieces
which will not dissolve are strained away, the soup is allowed to cool,
and when the fat is skimmed off the liquor is fit for mixing with the
meal ; the mixture is fed cold in the summer, whilst in winter the
soup is warmed, so that the digestive organs of the pigs can at once
begin operations instead of a certain amount of animal heat being
needed to first warm up the food on which the pig is fed. The pigs
so fed grow and fatten rapidly, furnishing a carcass of fine meat weigh-
ing some 65 lb. ere they are five months old. The points of a Middle
White are somewhat similar to the Large White Yorkshire, but on a
smaller scale and more compact ; the head, ears and legs are shorter ;
still, if the Middle White be kept until it reaches the age of some nine
or ten months, it will furnish sides of pork suitable for the country
butcher’s trade, and weighing 90 to 120 lb. each. Boars of this breed
are in great demand both at home and abroad for crossing on the
coarser breeds of pigs for the production of London porkets and small
pork pigs, of which many thousands are imported into England each
week from Holland, Belgium and Denmark.
In years gone by the black and white pig — which has been known
as the Berkshire — and the Small White Yorkshire occupied the posi-
tions now largely taken up by the Large and Middle White York-
shires ; the Small White has pretty well ceased to be bred, whilst
the Berkshire has undergone as great a change in its formation and
size as it has in its colour, which is now, according to the standard
620
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
set up by the British Berkshire Society, a black pig, having a white
mark or blaze down the face, four white feet, and a white tip to its
tail ; indeed, so strong are the prejudices as to colour, that it is quite
an unusual thing to find a Berkshire judge giving a prize to a pig of
the breed which fails in its “ markings.”
The breeders of Berkshires have considerably altered the type,
form and character of their favourites during the last thirty years.
The present day pigs are shorter and deeper in the carcass ; they
have shorter and heavier heads, and are altogether more compactly
built ; to such a state of this kind of perfection have the breeders
brought their pigs, that a well-fattened Berkshire is one of the most
successful fat show pigs of the day. A cross between the Berkshires
and the Middle Whites is very common and very successful for breed-
ing London porket pigs ; the white pig is considered to be more pro-
lific, and the cross-bred pigs grow faster when young than the pure
bred Berkshires.
The admirers of the red-haired Tamworth pig claim that some of
the good properties of the old-fashioned Berkshire were obtained
from the infusion of a considerable portion of the blood of the bronze
coloured pig, which was extensively kept in olden times in the forests
of the midland counties, where they picked up their living during the
greater part of the year. These pigs were of a tawny or sandy colour,
with black spots on the skin when young, but gradually assumed a
grizzly bronze hue as they grew older ; they were very prolific, and the
sows were good sucklers — qualities which are not so much in evidence
amongst the present fashionable light red pigs, which still retain the
long snout, somewhat thick shoulders and short backs, with drooping
rumps. Their aptitude to fatten has been greatly increased, and the
disposition of the sows has been much improved. Some few years
since considerable numbers of the improved type of Tamworth were
used to cross on the black sows in those counties which supply the
Caine and other bacon factories with fat pigs ; this is not so general
now, since the crosses were found to be too short from the shoulder
to the hip and too light in the flank to furnish enough of the so-called
streaky part of the side of bacon, which realizes much more money
per lb. than any other cut.
A new candidate for public favour in the form of the so-called Large
Black pig has been considerably boomed during the last five or six
years. At present the type is not quite fixed ; the sources from which
the material from which the breed has been evolved are mainly two,
Cornwall and Essex, but the type of Large Black pig found in the two
counties varies greatly. At the present time the lop-eared, some-
what heavy jowled, thick shouldered and round boned Cornwall type
is most successful in the show yards. The sows are prolific and first-
rate mothers, and the young pigs are hardy and quick growers, whilst
the matured fat pig is of great weight, but there is still room for im-
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE COMMON HOG 621
provement in the head and shoulders and in the length and quality
of carcass. The fat pigs sell readily amongst the miners in Corn-
wall, but it is doubtful if the consumers in the eastern midlands and
London will purchase pork very freely which is made from the present
fashionable type of Large Black.
The Blue-Black pig found in Sussex has many good qualities ; it
is a good forager, is easily kept, is prolific and hardy, and the pigs
give a good return for the fatting food when they have become ma-
tured, which is at rather a late period of their lives. This want
of early maturity may have been one of the causes for the crossing of
the Sussex sows with the Berkshire or Dorset boar. The cross bred
pigs by the Berkshire are said to fatten more readily and to produce
somewhat better quality of pork ; this may or may not be correct,
but the cross bred pigs are certainly of a more pleasing appearance
and carriage.
The Dorset was also of a slate colour and, like the Sussex, sparse of
hair, but very few, if any, pure bred specimens of the breed can now
be found ; the breed was very considerably utilized for competition
at the fat stock shows held in London and other places some thirty
years since. It is asserted that the exhibitors crossed their Dorset
sows with the Small Black boar, in order to increase the ability to fatten
readily. In this the breeders were very successful ; some of the so-
called Dorsets exhibited at the Smithfield Club’s shows were certainly
marvels of obesity, but the carcasses proved to be mere bladders of
lard, which lost their high value when the enormous quantity of
American lard, manufactured from maize and cotton-seed oil, was
imported into this country.
The so-called Oxfordshire or plum pudding pig, found in parts of
Northamptonshire, Leicestershire and Oxfordshire is nearly lost at
the present time. The use of Neapolitan and other boars of a black
breed has well nigh converted this local breed into one of a black or
a black with little white colour. Sows of this character have many
good points ; their ability to rough it and to withstand the far too
general neglect with which the midland counties farmers’ pigs are
treated, renders it a favourite. The sows are good mothers and the
store pigs grow fairly fast, and when put up to fatten make fair use of
the good food fed to them ; the fat pigs also furnish a large proportion
of lean meat, which however has cost rather a high price to produce.
The Cumberland or North County pig was a prime favourite for
supplying the well-known and much appreciated Cumberland hams
in the days of old-fashioned curing, and when large hams were not
objected to as they now are. The pig itself was of considerable size,
but not as bulky as the Large Yorkshire ; its bone was fine, its skin
was thin and hair sparse, and its flesh was inclined to be fat, too fat
for the present taste ; but the Cumberland hog is still another of the
local breeds which has almost ceased to exist in its old form. It has
622
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
been well nigh crossed out of existence. The pigs found at present
in the northern counties are of no particular type ; they appear to
be mainly crosses of the Yorkshire boar on the country sows, their
age and substance varying according to the local demand for pork
which is ruled by the calling of the inhabitants.
The pig country, par excellence, is North America, where the
porcine population is said to total some forty millions. A very large
proportion of these are Poland Chinas, Durse- Jerseys, Chester Whites,
Victorias or Cheshires ; all of these breeds are claimed to be new
breeds of home manufacture. This may or may not have sufficient
foundation. The Poland China is a compound breed ; its present
appearance — fashion in pigs changes as much in the United States
as fashions generally do in this country — is very similar to a Berk-
shire, of the thick-shouldered, heavy-boned type, save that the ears
are somewhat longer, and broken or bent in the middle instead of being
pricked, as is the ear of the Berkshire. There is no doubt that the
Poland China is a marvellous pig for the manufacture of lard out of
Indian corn, or, as we term it, maize. The Durse- Jersey is a red pig
of much the same conformation as the Poland China ; its breeders
however claim that it is more prolific. Chester Whites and Cheshires
are white in colour ; the former is a somewhat coarse lard-producing
hog ; the latter is a longer pig, and more of what we should term a
bacon hog of indifferent quality. The Victoria is a compound pig
of a white colour, which is due to the use of a white boar of the so-
called Suffolk or Small Yorkshire breed ; these breeds in turn ap-
peared to be really importations of Middle White or Small White pigs
from this country. The Berkshire and the Chester White sows appear
to have been used to build up the Victoria pig, which is very similar
in appearance to many of the cross Middle White and Berkshire fat
pigs shown in the Middle White and cross bred classes at the Smith-
field Show in London. The pork packers in the States have been
endeavouring of late years to induce pig breeders to pay more atten-
tion to the length and quality of flesh and bone of their pigs, in order
that they may capture a share of the high class English bacon trade ;
their success so far has not been great, as not only is it necessary to
have the right type of pig, but it is also imperative that the pigs must
be fed on a mixture of foods, of which maize forms only a comparatively
small proportion during the latter part of the fatting period.
Pig breeders in the British Isles are more likely to find far stronger
competition in the bacon manufactured in Canada and Denmark than
in that produced in the United States. The pigs in the Dominion
were of a mixed character, and more suitable for the production of
mess or barrel pork, such as is used up country in the lumber dis-
tricts of Canada ; these barrels of fat pork and the other necessary,
but not very varied, supplies of food are sent up into those parts
where the lumbermen will work for some months entirely separated
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON tHE COMMON HOG 623
from the world. The cold is intense, so that a great amount of fat
is needed to keep up the warmth of the body. Some twenty or more
years since one or two of the chief pork packers in Canada imported
a number of Large Yorkshire pigs from one of our best herds. The
improvement in the form and quality of the pigs was so great that
other importations were made. Then a few Tamworths were tried.
These also tended to increase the proportion of lean in the country
pig, so that at the present time nearly all the pigs killed and cured
in the bacon factories — -of which several have recently been built —
are of the Yorkshire crossed with Berkshire, Tamworth, Poland China
and native pigs. At the present time Canadian bacon is very largely
consumed in this country, where the price realized for it is greatly
in excess of that made of the American bacon. This for two reasons :
the quality is superior, due to the pigs having been fed on a mixed
diet and dairy offals, instead of mainly maize, and the form of the
side of bacon and ham is better, the finer quality parts forming a
greater proportion of the side. The marvellous improvement in the
quality of the Canadian bacon is clearly shown in the following extract
from a speech recently made by Mr. F. W. Hodson, the Live Stock
Commissioner at Ottawa, a man to whom the Canadian farmers are
deeply indebted : —
“ Twelve years ago we exported $600,000 worth of inferior bacon ;
now we are exporting nearly $15,000,000 worth of superior bacon.
The measure of success achieved is mainly due to breeding along one
line — the line of bacon hogs. We have not yet gone as far as we
should have gone. In Denmark they use one breed only (the Large
White Yorkshire), and the result is that Danish bacon sells at five to
ten shillings per long cwt. above Canadian bacon. The Danes do not
feed better than our people, but they breed better. You cannot
produce the first-class bacon required to build up our export trade
in this line if you use the thick, fat American breeds of hogs as your
foundation stock. By using the right kind we can share in the mon-
opoly of the best bacon trade in the world (the English), which is now
divided between Denmark, Ireland, a small part of England and our-
selves.”
This remarkable and correct speech clearly points out the sources
of supply of the enormous quantity of breakfast bacon now consumed
in England. A few years ago Ireland furnished us with all the imported
bacon, then Germany and Sweden. After a time the protective
duties on feeding stuffs so raised the price of the raw article, that the
fatted pig was too dear to be converted into bacon at a profit. The
bacon factories in these protected countries were closed, and others
opened in Denmark, where the Government has greatly helped the
farmer and the bacon factor by giving a bonus on every pedigree
breeding pig imported from the best herds in England, and in charging
the lowest possible railway rates on pigs and bacon. The Govern-
624
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
ment also sent experienced men over to England to inspect all the
noted herds of Yorkshire pigs and to purchase specimens ; these last
were bred from in Denmark, their breeding and fatting qualities were
noted, and their product in the form of bacon compared. The result
was a number of both boars and sows were purchased from one old
breeder during several years ; herds were thus established in Den-
mark, so that now only occasional boars are imported to secure a
slight change of blood ; and Danish bacon is fast approaching the value
and quality of the Irish bacon. This last has certainly not made
anything approaching the improvement of late years which has been
noticeable in the Danish product ; the Irish bacon had already ac-
quired a high character, and the importation of the finest Large York-
shire pigs from England has not been on a sufficiently extensive scale;
the result has been a slight decadence instead of an improvement in
the form and quality of the ordinary Irish country pig. The Irish
bacon curers have apparently done their best to arouse their country-
men to the certain loss of the best English market unless the quality
of the fat pigs is kept up ; but the natural apathy of the people and
the alleged desire of the Dublin officials to keep the trade in pure bred
pigs in Irish hands appear to render null and void the loyal attempts
of the curers to benefit the Irish farmers and themselves at one and
the same time. How great the importation of bacon into this country
is does not appear to have been realized. In an article written by one
of our specialists, and published in a recent issue of the Journal of the
Board of Agriculture, it was stated that 250,000 tons of bacon, valued
at some twenty-five millions sterling, was annually imported. Surely
our farmers and pig keepers are neglectful in allowing this enormous
amount of money to be sent yearly out of the country principally for
an article which we, with our fine breed of pigs and our wonderful
climate, ought to produce at home. It does seem strange that you
might almost count the English bacon factories on one hand ; it is
true that at one of our largest factories the finest bacon in the world
is manufactured, but this only proves that we could produce a large '
proportion of the twenty-five million pounds’ worth of bacon which
Denmark, Canada, the States and other countries now send into this
country.
The wild pig has long since disappeared from this country, nor is it
largely consumed even in those foreign countries where it is still found.
One of the chief uses to which it is put is the furnishing of sport. In
India pig sticking is very popular, whilst in Germany, Austria and
some other countries wild pig shooting and hunting is held in high
esteem. Again, in Russia and Servia immense droves of pigs are kept
in the forests, where they mate at their own pleasure and pick up their
living unattended by man and even unnoticed, until the order goes
forth for the slaughter of a certain number. The mere fact that none
of the pigs have been operated upon, and their food having consisted
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE COMMON HOG 625
of roots and the seed of oaks, chestnuts, beech and other trees, is
sufficient to give a very good idea of tire quality — or want of it — -of
the meat. In this country such stuff would fail to find a market,
unless it were for the conversion into the lowest priced sausages in
some of our large towns, where the poverty is so great that anything
in the form of meat is looked upon as a treat, to be enjoyed only
occasionally.
Within a quarter of a century of the present time, pig breeders
were supposed to breed and feed their pigs for particular markets.
The little sucking pig of 8 or 10 lb., which was looked upon as an
ideal dish in the cold weather, was only obtainable when the usual
depression in the value of pigs came round, after the three or four years
of enhanced value of pigs. Then many litters of pigs of about three
or four weeks old would be slaughtered and despatched to the large
towns or centres of population, where they would realize some 6s. or
7s. each, thus paying the breeder far better than they would have done
if kept longer. This slaughter of the innocents and of the breeding sows
is followed for a few months, when the shortage of pigs becomes notice-
able, and every one who had recently cleared out his stock of pigs is
equally as anxious to become the possessor of some of those which
the more thoughtful neighbour had continued to breed. The natural
result follows : the price of pigs is rushed up, the weanlings become
of three or four times as much value, and the supply of roasting suckers
becomes a thing of the past for perhaps three or four years. The
period varies, as other factors, such as the general state of trade and
purchasing powers of the masses, have a strong influence on the value
of pork and pigs. The necessity for the consideration of the market
for which the fat pig is intended is not now as noticeable as it was
some years since, when the pigs required for conversion into bacon
were considered to be unsuitable unless they turned the scale at 400
or 500 lb. at least. Now the fat pig of about 1 50 lb. dead weight is
exactly what is sought by the bacon curer and the meat purveyor in
the southern half of England, whilst a somewhat heavier pig is still in
more general demand in the northern counties.
Unwholesome Pork. — There is little doubt that in the olden times,
under entirely different sanitary conditions, the flesh of the common
hog was at times diseased. The parasite, Trichina spiralis, was by
no means unknown in this country ; whilst in Germany and other
countries, where the eating of raw pork in the form of ham and sau-
sages is common, cases of this disease are still reported. The presence
of this parasite in the human body is most painful, and generally
results in the death of the sufferer. Mere salting, smoking, or sub-
jecting to a moderate heat will not kill the parasite in infected meat ;
thorough and complete cooking alone is sufficient to render the meat
innocuous. Fortunately no recent instances of trichinosis have been
recorded in this country. Diseased pork, which in olden times went
626
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
under the name of “ measly pork,” has not of late years been found
in this country. It was due to the presence of the parasite Cystersus
celluloscB, found in the form of a small cyst about the size of a pea,
imbedded in the tissue. Thorough cooking also renders this parasite
innocuous. Under the insanitary conditions which fattened pigs
had been kept in the olden days for a much longer period than is now
considered necessary to fit them for the butcher, tuberculosis was not
infrequently developed, but even this dread disease has never been
proved to have been communicated to human beings by eating the
flesh of animals suffering from tuberculosis. The medical profession
are still warmly discussing the question of the similarity of this disease
as it exists in human beings and in our domesticated animals. The
present enlightened system of housing farm animals is fast reducing
the number of cases of tuberculosis amongst our live stock.
To Choose Pork. — In the good old times the quality of pork was
most variable ; the long so-called store period of the life of the pig,
when it had to hunt for its living to such an extent that starvation
diet was frequently its portion, to be followed by a period of stuffing
on more or less rich food and without a possibility of exercise and
a breath of sweet air ; all these undesirable conditions injuriously
affected the quality of the pork produced under such insanitary con-
ditions. At the present time pig keepers are cognisant of the fact
that pork made from young pigs which have been well fed from their
birth realizes so much more on the market and pays them so much
better, that a large proportion of the pigs kept in this country do not
know what the old-fashioned store period in the life of a pig was like.
There is little doubt that the manner in which pigs were kept in other
days was the principal cause for the prejudice which exists against
fresh pork as an article of diet. This prejudice is fast dying out now
that sanitary arrangements are attended to, and the fatting pigs fed
on common sense and humanitarian lines. This improvement is
especially valuable to the lower classes, who find pork the most
economical meat food, since it can be cooked in so many appetising
ways, and every portion of the pig can be utilized for the food of man.
It can also be produced at less cost than other meat, and consequently
can be sold more cheaply. The percentage of loss in killing is only
some 23 per cent, against nearly twice as much in the case of cattle.
There is now far less necessity for care in the choice of the joint of pork,
since well nigh the whole is of far better quality than a few years since.
The fat of the best pork is white, the lean of a brownish hue, ingrained
with fat ; the rind should be thin and the bone fine but solid ; these
last are generally accepted as sure indications of good quality of meat.
Ham. — The sources of supply of the finest hams are now far more
numerous than a few years since. There is also a great change in the
size, form and degree of fatness of the ham now desired. In place
of the 20 to 40 lb. hams, by no means uncommon in the past, the
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE COMMON HOG 627
highest priced ham is one of some 10 to 12 lb. — anice, plump long ham,
fine in the skin and bone, fairly fat, and cut off a carcass of pork fur-
nished by a pig which has not lived more than seven months. This
kind of ham is delicate in flavour, short in texture, easily digested
and economical. At one time the cold fat ham was one of the standing
breakfast dishes in the houses of the wealthy ; now a hot ham is far
more frequently a favourite course at dinner. Its reappearance in
the dining or breakfast room is seldom, so that on economical grounds
if on none other, a small ham is preferable to a large one. At the
present time Irish hams realize the highest price in the London market,
but Canadian and Danish hams are pressing the English and Irish hams
very closely. A considerable number of Cumberland and Yorkshire
hams are still sent to the southern counties, but the purchasers of these
are old-fashioned housekeepers or others having large families to pro-
vide for. At one time hams were cut in various fashions ; now that
the majority of the hams are cured with the side of bacon, the shape
or cut of the ham varies but little.
To choose a Ham, select one fine in the bone, then run a skewer in
close to the bone to the middle of the ham. If it comes out clean and
smells sweet, it is good, but if it smells strong and has fat adhering
to it, choose another. If the ham be cut, see that the fat is white
and not streaked with yellow. All meat first goes bad near the bone.
A ham may not be rancid, yet not of the best quality ; it may be too
salt or flavourless, owing to improper curing. Connoisseurs still prefer
a ham which has been kept for some months, but the difficulty in
obtaining them is far greater now than formerly ; this is due to two
causes, the vastly increased consumption of hams and the change
in the system of curing. In a few country districts it is still possible
to obtain a supply of aged hams by arranging with an old-fashioned
local curer to take a fixed number at certain periods. Of course the
purveyor has to charge an extra price to cover risk of loss, interest
on capital, etc. There are various ways of keeping hams ; the most
common is to inclose them in brown paper and calico bags ; others
again place them in a box covered with malt combs or broad bran.
To Buy Bacon. — In choosing bacon, similar action can be taken, but
as a rule the shoulder is the only part likely to be tainted. The enor-
mously increased consumption of so-called breakfast bacon, for which
the streaky — or that portion of the side extending from the shoulder
to the hip, and about three-fourths of the depth of the side— is most
in demand ; consequently it realizes much the highest price per lb.
Many economical persons now purchase the shoulder and cut it ham
shape, so that it often does duty as a ham. It is not so fine in tex-
ture and has more bone, but it is certainly an economical joint. The
following is a list of the parts into which a side of bacon is now cut
in the southern counties, with the current price of each joint of the
very best quality : — ■
628
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Weight about Price per lb.
lb.
s.
d.
Fore end
. 17
0
6
Middle
• 35
0
ni
Gammon
14
0
8J
Cut through side nearest the shoulder 12
1
o£
Second cut
12
1
<*
Third Cut
12
1
0
Fore hock
10
0
5
Thick streaky
9
0
1 1
Thin streaky
4j
0
ioi
Flank
3z
0
5i
Three-quarter gammon
10
0
7\
Corner of gammon
4
1
°i
Long back
9
1
1
Back and ribs
9
1
Collar
7
0
7\
Whole side
. 65
0
9\
The best and most humane
way of killing pigs is
to strike them
with a heavy hammer between
or just above the eyes
; the
pigs drop
down senseless, then the butcher inserts his knife into
the chest, pier-
cing the heart of the pig, which very quickly bleeds to death. The
hair is removed in two ways, either by so-called scalding, i.e. immers-
ing the body of the pig into water of a certain temperature, or by
placing a bundle of straw round the carcass, setting fire to the fuel
and burning off the hair ; this last plan is not much followed, save
in Somersetshire and two or three adjacent counties. The followers
of this practice assert that the flavour of the meat is improved. The
scalding is certainly far the cleaner plan, and is in more general use.
The best weight for a bacon curer’s pig is about 220 lb. alive. The loss
in dressing a fat pig varies with the age, size and degree of fatness of
the pig ; small porket pigs will dress from 70 to 75 per cent.; fat pigs
weighing above some 220 lb. will lose about 23 to 25 per cent, of their
weight in dressing, whilst very fat and old pigs will sometimes dress
as much as 85 per cent, of their gross weight.
The system of bacon curing has completely changed of late, as has
the cutting up of the pig for curing ; now the pig is merely divided
down the back, the head is cut off, the shoulder bone taken out, and
the backbone and the major part of the lean meat is taken off. When
the side of pork has brine or pickle forced into it by means of what
are termed force pumps, the sides are then packed on each other, a
layer of salt, etc. being used between each side. The sides are thus
left for about a fortnight when the curing is finished, and are baled
and sold on the large markets, whence country bacon merchants pur-
chase, smoke and retail them to the provisioner. At most of the bacon
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE COMMON HOG 629
factories a certain portion of the bacon is smoked for the retail trade,
the quantity varying with the orders received. Sausages, pork pies,
etc., are also manufactured in some of the factories.
Salt pork is commonly made in farm houses; somewhat small fat
pigs are killed, the roasting parts are cut off and the remainder of the
carcass cut up into pieces of about the size which will subsequently
be required for cooking, and placed in an earthenware pot in which
brine had been already placed. The meat is covered by the brine,
and pieces of it are taken out as required for use. It is advisable to
use the legs and the leaner pieces first, or they may become too salt.
The usual joints of small fresh pork are the leg, the loin, which in
turn is divided into fore — or, as it is sometimes called, the crop or
spare-rib — and hind ; the hand, the spring, the belly, middle cut
and the head. The respective prices of these parts varies somewhat
according to the season and the district. The heavy fat pig is cut up
in various ways ; in the north of England, where large fat hogs are
now mainly killed, the legs, shoulders, belly and the fat, after the
roasting parts are taken off, are generally salted lightly and then boiled ;
the loin, spare-ribs, etc., are roasted whole, save when converted into
so-called pork-chops, which are considered to be very rich and suitable
only when the weather is very cold.
The Names of Ihe Several Joints are as follows : —
Fore-Quarter. Hind-Quarter.
1. Spare-rib. 3. Spring, or belly.
2. Hand. 5. Loin.
4. Fore-loin. 6. Leg.
The weight of the several joints of a good pork pig of 6 stone may be
as follows, viz : —
The leg 8 lb.
The loin and spring 6 ,,
The hand 6 ,,
The chine 7 ,,
The cheek from 2 to 3 lb.
Fore-Quarter.
(1) Spare-rib. — Generally roasted.
(2) Hand. — Usually slightly salted and boiled, to eat either hot or
cold.
(4) Fore-loin. — For roasting.
Hind-Quarter.
(3) Spring, or belly. — Generally salted and boiled.
(5) Loin. — The best roasting joint, but rather fat. Large chops
are cut from it.
(6) Leg. — The most economical roasting joint in this as in most
other animals. It is less fat than the fore-quarter. Used also for
raised pies.
630
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Besides these joints, the following parts of the pig are sold for food : —
(7) Head, also known in various parts of the country as “ cheek,”
or “ chopper.” Weighs 5 lb. to 6 lb. and can often be bought very cheap.
Is generally slightly salted and made into brawn. Can also be collared
or boiled.
(8) Feet, or pettitoes. — Generally boiled and served hot or cold. Not
unfrequently they are boned and stuffed.
(9) Liver, sweetbread, and some of the inside fat are often sold together
under the name of pig’s fry.
(10) Lard. — Any part of the fat is melted down and sold in bladders,
tubs, or by the pound, for pastry making, frying, etc. The lower the
heat at which it is melted the smoother and less granulous it is.
Occasionally it is said to be mixed with flour or starch. Much is im-
ported annually from America. It has a lower melting point than beef
or mutton fat and — partly for that reason — is less suitable for frying
than other fats. It is better adapted for making pastry.
TABLE OF THE RELATIVE VALUE OF VARIOUS JOINTS
OF PORK
Showing the Actual Cost of the Eatable Portions, after de-
ducting Bone, Skin and Waste, and Loss by Weight, by
DIFFERENT MODES OF COOKING.
In the following tables the different parts have been carefully tested
with the view of finding out which are really the most economical.
It will be seen that the leg of pork wastes less than the loin, and that
the best part of bacon is the cheapest when boiled.
Name of Joint.
How usually
cooked.
Weight
before
cooking.
Weight
when
cooked,
bone and
waste
deducted.
Total
loss
per lb.
Average
cost
per lb.
Cost per lb.
after cook-
ing, bone
and waste
deducted.
Bacon (back)
Boiled
lb. oz.
2 8
lb. oz.
2 -8
OZ.
None
s. d.
O 11
s d.
0 11
„ (side)
Fried
0 8
0 6
4
0 9
1 2 1
„ (cushion) .
Boiled
4 8
3 8
3l
0 9
0 nj
Ham
Boiled
11 15
7 7
6
I
O
1 7i
„ (rashers) .
Fried
O 12
0 8
5 1
I
0
i 6
„ (knuckle)
Boiled
2 II
1 15
4i
0 8
I
O
Leg of pork
Roasted .
6 8
4 9
4}
0 9
I
I
„ „ ...
Boiled
5 11
4 0
4*
0 9
I
I
Loin of pork (hind) .
Roasted .
4 3
2 7
6i
0 IO
I 4l
„ ,, (fore) .
Roasted .
4 6
2 IO
61
0 9
1 3
„ „ (whole)
Roasted .
14 O
9 8
5
0 9
I
I
Liver and fry
Fried
I IO
I I
si
0 6
1 if
Pickled pork
Boiled
2 O
1 14
1
0 8
0 81
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE COMMON HOG 631
TABLE GIVING WEIGHT OF BONE, SKIN AND WASTE IN
JOINTS OF PORK
Weight of
Weight of
Loss of
Total
Weight of
Name of Joint.
joint when
bone, skin
weight by
weight of
eatable
bought.
and waste.
cooking.
waste.
matter.
lb. 0 z.
lb. oz.
lb. oz.
lb. oz.
lb. oz.
Bacon (back) .
2 8
None
None
None
2 8
„ (cushion) .
4 8
0 7
0 9
I O
3 8
Ham
11 15
0 13I
3 ioJ
4 8
7 7
,, (rashers).
O 12
O 2
O 2
0 4
0 8
Leg of pork
6 8
I
O
O IS
1 15
4 9
Loin of pork
14 O
I
O
3 8
4 8
9 8
Pickled pork
2 O
O
2
None
O 2
1 14
RECIPES FOR COOKING
PORK.
CHAPTER XXI
1074. — BOLOGNA SAUSAGES, IMITATION OF.
(Fr. — Saucisses a la Bologna.)
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of lean beef, 2 lb. of lean pork, 1 lb. of finely -
chopped suet, powdered thyme, mace, pepper, fat bacon cut into
strips, ox skins, brine.
Method. — Simmer the meat very gently until tender, then chop it
finely, or pass it 2 or 3 times through a mincing machine. Pound it
and the suet until smooth, and season highly with pepper, and more
sparingly with mace and thyme. Press the mixture into the prepared
ox-skins, and in filling them intersperse strips of bacon. Tie the
skins in 8 or 9-inch lengths, let them remain in brine for 9 or 10 days (sea
various recipes for salting), then hang them in the smoke from a peat
fire. They may be kept for a considerable time in a cool dry place.
Serve cut in thin slices.
Time. — To cure, 8 or 9 days. To smoke, at least 3 weeks. Average
Cost, iod. to 1 id. per lb.
1075. — CROQUETS OF PORK. (Fr. — Croquettes de
Pore.)
Ingredients. — ^ a lb. of finely-chopped cooked lean pork, \ a teaspoon-
ful of finely-chopped shallot or onion, £ of a teaspoonful of powdered
sage, a pinch of marjoram, -l an oz. of butter, £ of an oz. of flour, \ of a
pint of strong stock, salt and pepper, 1 egg, breadcrumbs, frying-fat.
Method.— Melt the butter in a stewpan, fry the onion lightly, then
stir in first the flour and afterwards the stock, and boil gently for 10
or 12 minutes, stirring briskly meanwhile. Add the meat, sage, mar-
joram, and a good seasoning of salt and pepper, stir over the fire until
well mixed, and turn on to a plate to cool. Form into cork-shaped
632
RECIPES FOR COOKING PORK 633
pieces, coat with egg and breadcrumbs, and fry in hot fat. ( See
“ Croquettes of Beef,” also “ Notes on Frying,” page 443.)
Time. — To fry, 4 to 5 minutes. Average Cost, 9d. Sufficient for 4
or 5 persons. Seasonable in winter.
1076. — FILLET AND FILLETS OF PORK.
Pork is very rarely cut into parts to which the terms fillet or fillets
could be applied, small legs being cooked whole, while large ones are
cured for hams A fillet would consist of the fleshy part of the leg
(see “ Fillet [of Mutton] to Dress ”), which might be divided into
small fillets, or, if preferred, small fillets could be cut from the loin
or best part of the neck, just as noisettes of mutton are cut. Any
directions given for cooking pork chops and tenderloins would be
equally applicable to these.
1077. — GALANTINE OF PORK. (Fr. — Galantine de
Pore.)
Ingredients. — A belly of young pork, either salted or fresh, but pre-
ferably the former, pickled gherkins, pepper, stock, or water with the
addition of 2 onions, 1 carrot, ] of a turnip, a bouquet-garni (thyme,
parsley, bay -leaf), 10 peppercorns, glaze.
Method. — Lay the meat, skin side downwards, on the table, season
well with pepper, and cover with thin slices of gherkin. Roll up as
tightly as possible, tie with strong twine, and fasten securely in a cloth.
Place the roll in a stewpan containing sufficient hot stock, or hot
water and vegetables, to just cover it, and cook gently from 2} to 3
hours. Press between 2 dishes until cold, then remove the cloth,
brush over with glaze, and serve garnished writh parsley.
Time. — To cook, from 3^ to 4 hours. Average Cost, 8d. per lb.
Seasonable in the winter.
1078. — GRISKIN OR SPINE OF PORK.
Ingredients.— Pork, salt and pepper, apple sauce. No. 316.
Method. — Baking is a cookery process peculiarly adapted to pork,
which needs to be thoroughly done without drying the outside. Place
the meat in a baking-tin containing some hot pork or bacon fat, baste
well, and bake gently until thoroughly cooked, keeping the meat
well basted. Make the gravy from the sediment in the tin (see
“ Gravies ”), and serve with apple sauce. If liked, a little finely-
powdered sage and a small pinch of marjoram may be sprinkled on
the meat i an hour before serving.
Time. — Allow 20 minutes to the lb. Average Cost, gd. to iod. per lb.
634 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1079. — LITTLE RAISED PORK PIES. {Fr—. Petits
Pates de Pore.)
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of lean pork, 1 lb. of household flour, 8 ozs. of
lard, \ a teaspoonful of powdered sage, cayenne, pepper and salt,
J a pint of water, 1 small onion.
Method. — Prepare the stock, meat and paste as directed in the recipe
for “ Pork Pie.” Divide the paste into small pieces, raise in a round
or oval form, and fill with meat. Sprinkle lightly with sage, moisten
with stock, and put on the covers. Bake in a moderately hot oven
for about 1 hour, then fill up with stock, and serve either hot or cold.
Time. — To bake, about hours. Average Cost, 2s. 3d. to 2s. 6d.
1080. — LOIN OF PORK, BAKED. {Fr.— Longe de
Pore.)
Ingredients. — 3 or 4 lb. loin of pork, 18 potatoes, 8 apples, 6 onions,
all peeled and quartered, salad oil, gravy ( see “ Gravies ”).
Method. — Score the skin in narrow lines, and brush it over with salad
oil. Bake in a moderately hot oven for 40 minutes, then put the
potatoes, apples and onions into the tin containing the meat, and
continue to cook gently from i£ to hours longer. When ready,
arrange the vegetables and apples on a hot dish, place the meat in the
centre, and serve the gravy separately.
Time. — From 2 to 2\ hours. Average Cost, 9d. to iod. per lb. Suffi-
cient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable during the winter months.
1081. — PIG’S CHEEK.
Ingredients. — A pig’s cheek, brown breadcrumbs.
Method. — If the cheek has been cured and dried, soak it for 5 or 6
hours; if freshly pickled, simply wash it in 2 or 3 waters. Cover with
warm water, bring to the boil, and simmer gently for 2\ hours. Strip
off the skin, cover rather thickly with lightly-browned breadcrumbs,
and bake in the oven for \ an hour. Serve either hot or cold.
Time. — To cook, 3 hours. Average Cost, 8d. per lb. Seasonable in
winter.
1082. — PIG’S CHEEK, TO PICKLE.
Ingredients. — 2 pig’s cheeks. For the pickle: 4 ozs. of common salt
4 ozs. of moist sugar, 1 oz. of saltpetre, \ an oz. of ground pepper.
Method. — Remove the brains and snout, and chop off the upper
bone, to make the cheeks a good shape. Wash well, sprinkle thickly
with salt, let them lie for 24 hours, then wash and drain well. Mix the
above ingredients together, rub them well into the cheeks, and turn
RECIPES FOR COOKING PORK 635
and rub them daily for 4 weeks. Hang in a dry cool place until re-
quired.
Time. — 29 days. Average Cost, yd. to 8d. per lb.
1083. — PIG’S EARS. (. Fr . — Oreilles de Pore.)
Ingredients. — 4 pig’s ears, 4 tablespoonfuls of breadcrumbs, 2 table-
spoonfuls of finely-chopped veal, 2 tablespoonfuls of finely-chopped
suet, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, % a teaspoonful of essence
of anchovy, 1 egg, salt and pepper, £ a pint of brown sauce ( see
“ Sauces ”), \ of a pint of stock, frying-fat.
Method. — Soak the ears for 5 or 6 hours, then cover with stock or
water, and simmer gently for i|- hours. Mix the breadcrumbs, veal,
suet, parsley, anchovy-essence, and a good seasoning of salt and pepper
together, and slightly moisten with beaten egg. Raise the skin of
the upper side of the ear, press the forcemeat lightly in, and secure the
opening. Fry in hot fat until lightly browned, then drain off the fat,
add the stock, cover closely, and cook either on the stove or in the oven
for -} an hour. Drain well, and serve with the sauce poured over them.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, uncertain. Sufficient for 2 or 3
persons. Seasonable in winter.
1084. — PIG’S EARS WITH TARTARE SAUCE.
(Fr. — Oreilles de Cochon, Sauce Tartare.)
Ingredients. — Pig’s ears pickled, frying-batter (see No. 213), Tartare
sauce ( see “ Sauces ”), butter or frying-fat, salad-oil, finely-chopped
shallot and parsley, salt and pepper.
Method. — Boil the ears until tender, let them cool, then sprinkle
them lightly with shallot and parsley, and liberally with pepper. Pour
over them 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, let them remain for 1
hour, turning 2 or 3 times, and basting frequently. Drain well, dip
them into the batter, and fry in hot butter or fat until crisp and brown.
Serve the sauce separately.
Time.— To fry, 4 or 5 minutes. Average Cost, uncertain, the ears
being seldom sold separately.
1085. — PIG’S FEET AND EARS, FRICASSEED.
(Fr. — Fricassee de Pieds de Pore.)
Ingredients. — 4 pig’s feet, 2 pig’s ears, a slice of onion, a small blade
of mace, a thin strip of lemon-rind, white stock or milk. For the
sauce: 2 ozs. of butter, ozs. of flour, | of a pint of white stock, salt
and pepper.
Method. — Wash the feet and ears, cover them with white stock or
milk, add the onion, mace, lemon-rind, and salt and pepper to taste.
636
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Simmer until tender, then cut the feet into neat pieces, and the ears
into strips. Heat the butter in a stewpan, add the flour, stir and cook
slowly for 5 or 6 minutes, then add the stock or liquor in which the feet
and ears were cooked. Boil up, season to taste, simmer gently for
10 minutes, then put in the prepared feet and ears, and when thoroughly
hot, serve.
Time. — About 2| hours. Average Cost, uncertain. Sufficient for 3 or 4
persons.
1086. — PIG’S FEET AND EARS IN JELLY.
(Fr. — Pieds de Pore en Aspic.)
Ingredients. — 4 pig’s feet, 2 pig’s ears, 1 dessertspoonful of finely-
chopped parsley, i a dessertspoonful of finely-chopped fresh sage,
salt and pepper.
Method. — Thoroughly cleanse the feet and ears, cover them with cold
water, and simmer gently until the bones can be easily withdrawn.
Cut the meat into dice, replace it in the liquor, add the parsley, sage,
and salt and pepper to taste. Simmer gently for 15 minutes, then
turn into a mould or basin, and put aside until cold.
Time. — About 3 hours. Average Cost, uncertain. Sufficient for 1
medium-sized mould. Seasonable in winter.
1087. — PIG’S FRY.
Ingredients. — A pig’s fry, which consists of the heart, lights, liver and
sweetbread, frying-fat, flour, salt and pepper, sage.
Method. — Wash the fry well, cover it with water, add a little salt,
and cook gently for + an hour. Drain and dry well, cut into thin
slices, and coat them lightly with flour seasoned with salt, pepper
and a little sage. Fry in hot fat until nicely browned, then remove
and keep hot. Sprinkle a little flour on the bottom of the frying-pan,
let it brown, then pour in a little boiling water, and add seasoning to
taste. Boil up, strain, and serve round the fry, or separately.
Time.— From 1 to pj- hours. Average Cost, 6d. to 7 d. per lb. Allow
1 lb. for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable in winter.
1088. — PIG’S FRY, BAKED WITH HERBS.
Ingredients. — A pig’s fry, potatoes, peeled and sliced, 2 or 3 onions
sliced, powdered sage, salt and pepper, flour.
Method. — Wash and dry the fry, and cut it into thin slices. Place
a layer at the bottom of a greased piedish, add a sprinkling of sage,
salt and pepper, dredge liberally with flour, and cover first with slices
of onion, and afterwards with potato. Repeat until all the materials
are used, letting potatoes form the last layer. Three-quarters fill the
dish with boiling water, cover with a greased paper, and bake gently
RECIPES FOR COOKING PORK 637
from 2\ to 2\ hours. About an hour before serving remove the
paper, to allow the potatoes to brown.
Time. — To bake, from 2\ to hours. Average Cost, fry, from 6d. to
7d. per lb. Allow 1 lb. of fry and 2 lb. of potatoes for 3 or 4 persons.
Seasonable m winter.
1089. — PIG’S HEAD, BOILED. (Fr. — Tete de Pore
bouillie.)
Ingredients. — A pig’s head, 1 lb. of common salt, 1 oz. of saltpetre,
pease pudding ( see No. 1098.)
Method. — Scald and cleanse the head thoroughly, removing the hair,
eyes, snout and brains. Soak in strong salt and water for 24 hours,
changing the water 2 or 3 times, then drain and dry well. Mix the
salt and saltpetre together, rub it well into every part of the head, and
repeat this process daily for 5 or 6 days. Drain the head from the brine,
place it in a stewpan containing sufficient warm water to cover it,
bring to the boil, and skim well. Simmer gently for 3^ hours, then
serve with the pease pudding.
Time. — To cook, about 3^ hours. Average Cost, 7d. to 8d. per lb.
Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons. Seasonable in winter.
1090. — PIG’S HEAD, COLLARED. (Fr.— Tete de Pore.)
Ingredients. — A pig’s head, 1 lb. of common salt, 1 oz. of saltpetre,
cayenne, salt and pepper.
Method. — Prepare the head as directed in the preceding recipe,
boil it gently for 2 hours, then drain from the liquor and remove the
bones, flatten the head as much as possible, sprinkle it liberally
with pepper and cayenne, and roll up tightly. Put the roll into a cloth,
and bind securely. Replace it in the stewpan, boil gently for 2 hours
longer, press until cold, and use as required.
Time. — About 4 hours. Average Cost, 7d. to 8d. per lb. Seasonable in
winter.
1091. — PIG’S KIDNEYS, BROILED. (Fr.— Rognons de
Pore grilles.)
Ingredients. — Pig’s kidneys, salt and pepper, powdered sage, salad-
oil, maitre d'Hotel butter, or parsley butter.
Method. — Split the kidneys lengthwise, remove the skin, and pass a
skewer through them to keep them flat. Brush over with salad-oil,
sprinkle with sage, salt and pepper, and broil over a clear fire, cooking
the cut side first. Place a small pat of maitre d'hotel butter in the
centre of each half, and serve as hot as possible.
Time. — 5 to 7 minutes, according to size. Average Cost, 4d. to 6d.
each.
638 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1092. — PIG’S KIDNEYS, FRIED. (Fr.— Rognons de
Pore Frits.)
Ingredients. — 2 pig’s kidneys, 2 ozs. of butter, 2 shallots or 1 small
onion finely-chopped, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, flour,
salt and pepper, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup.
Method. — Remove the skins, and cut the kidneys across into rather
thin slices. Heat the butter in a saute-pan, fry the shallots until lightly
browned, then put in the kidney, and add the parsley and a good
seasoning of salt and pepper. Toss over the fire for 3 or 4 minutes,
then turn on to a hot dish. Sprinkle a little flour on the bottom of
the pan, let it brown, then add a little boiling stock or water and season-
ing to taste. Boil up, pour over or round the kidney, and serve.
Time. — To fry, 3 or 4 minutes. Average Cost, 4d. to 6d. each.
1093. — PIG’S PETTITOES, FRIED. (Fr.— Pieds de
Pore frits.)
Ingredients.— 4 or 8 sucking pigs’ feet, frying-batter ( see No. 213),
stock, frying-fat, parsley.
Method. — Wash the pettitoes thoroughly, then cover them with stock
or water, bring to the boil, and simmer gently for about \ an hour.
Split them open, dip them into the batter, and fry in hot fat until nicely
browned. Drain, and serve garnished with crisply-fried parsley.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, uncertain, being seldom sold
separately.
1094. — PIG’S PETTITOES, STEWED. (Fr.— Pieds de
Pore en ragout.)
Ingredients. — 8 sucking-pigs’ feet, the heart and liver of the pig,
1 oz. of butter, 1 tablespoonful of flour, 1 tablespoonful of cream, 6
peppercorns, a small blade of mace, salt and pepper, stock.
Method. — Wash the liver, heart and pettitoes, cover with stock,
add the peppercorns and mace, and simmer gently for 20 minutes.
Take out the heart and liver and chop them finely, the pettitoes being
meanwhile allowed to cook slowly until quite tender. Heat the butter
in a stewpan, add the flour, stir and cook gently for 5 minutes, then
strain and add a pint of stock. Stir until boiling, season to taste,
put in the mince and pettitoes, make thoroughly hot, and stir in the
cream. Serve the mince on a hot dish with the feet halved and laid
on the top of it.
Time. — About 45 minutes. Average Cost, uncertain, being seldom
sold separately. Sufficient for 2 or 3 persons. Seasonable in winter.
RECIPES FOR COOKING PORK
639
1095. — PIG’S TONGUES. ( Fr . — Langues de Pore.)
Ingredients. — 8 or 9 pigs’ tongues. For the pickle : 4 ozs. of common
salt, 2 ozs. of bay salt, 1 oz. of moist sugar, \ an oz. of saltpetre.
Method. — Trim the roots of the tongues, rub them well with salt,
and let them lie for 24 hours. Mix the above ingredients together,
rub the mixture well into the tongues, and repeat this process daily
for 9 or 10 days. When ready, the tongues should be well washed,
and cooked according to directions given for dressing sheep's tongues.
Time. — To pickle, 9 or 10 days. Average Cost, uncertain, being
seldom sold separately.
1096. — PORK, BAKED. ( Fr . — Pore roti au Four.)
Ingredients. — Leg or loin of pork, 2 onions, 2 carrots, x small turnip,
2 strips of celery, 2 doz. button onions, 1 teaspoonful of mixed herbs,
1 oz. of butter, 2 or 3 ozs. of dripping, \ a pint of gravy, apple sauce
( see Sauces), salt and pepper.
Method. — Score the pork in narrow lines. Slice all the vegetables
except the button onions, place them in a baking-tin, sprinkle with
salt and pepper, and add the herbs and dripping. I.ay the meat on the
top, and cook in a moderate oven, basting frequently ( see “ Notes on
Baking Meat,” p. 428). \ an hour before serving, peel the small onions,
and fry them brown in hot butter. Serve the meat on a hot dish,
garnish with the onions, and send the gravy to table in a sauce-boat.
If necessary, the gravy can be made from the sediment in the meat tin.
Time. — Allow 20 minutes to each lb. Average Cost, 9d. to iod.
per lb. Seasonable in the winter.
1097. — PORK AND BEANS.
(Fr. — Pore Sale aux Haricots blanc.)
Ingredients. — A shoulder of young pork pickled, 1 onion, 1 carrot, \ of
a turnip, 10 peppercorns, Windsor beans, parsley sauce {see No. 206.)
Method. — Put the pork into a stewpan containing sufficient warm
water to cover it, bring to the boil, add the vegetables and peppercorns,
and boil gently for about 2 hours. Half an hour before the pork will
be ready throw the beans into salted boiling water, boil gently from
25 to 30 minutes, then drain well, and pour over them the parsley
sauce. Serve the pork and beans on separate dishes.
Time. — From 2 to hours, according to size. Average Cost, iod.
per lb. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable in the winter.
1098. — PORK, BOILED, AND PEASE PUDDING.
Ingredients. — Leg or other joint of salted or pickled pork, 1 good
cabbage, 6 parsnips, 1 onion, 1 carrot, \ a turnip, 1 strip of celery.
640
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
12 peppercorns. For the pudding: 1 quart of split peas, 1 oz. of
butter, 2 yolks of eggs, salt and pepper.
Method. — Soak the peas for 12 hours. Place the pork in a boiling
pot, cover it with warm water, unless very salt, in which case use cold
water ( see “Notes on Boiling Meat,” p. 429). Bring to the boil, skim
well, boil for 10 minutes, add the onion, carrot, turnip and celery, all
cut into thick slices, put in the peppercorns, and simmer gently until
done. Boil the parsnips and cabbage separately ; divide the former
lengthwise into 4 pieces, and press the latter well, season it with pepper,
and cut it into small squares. Serve the pork in a hot dish, garnished
with the parsnips and cabbage. The liquor in which pork is cooked
may be converted into good peasoup.
There are two methods of making the pease pudding. By the first
method, the peas are drained from the water in which they were soaked,
tied in a cloth, and cooked for about 1^ hours in the boiling-pot with
the pork. They are then rubbed through a fine sieve, mixed with the
butter and yolks of eggs, seasoned with salt and pepper, replaced in the
cloth, and boiled with the pork for about 40 minutes longer. The
second method is probably the better one. After being drained from
the water in which they were soaked, the peas are placed, with a dessert-
spoonful of salt, in a stewpan, which they about half fill, and covered
with cold water, which must be replaced as it boils away. Cook the
peas gently for about 2 hours, or till they are quite soft, then rub
them through a fine sieve, add the butter, yolks of eggs, and season
to taste. Press the puree into a well-buttered mould or basin, and
either steam or bake for about 40 minutes.
Time. — Allow 25 minutes to each lb. of pork. Average Cost, the pork
qd. per lb., the pudding qd.
1099. — PORK, LEG OF, ROASTED. (Fr.— Gigot de
Pore roti.)
Ingredients. — A leg of pork, onion forcemeat, No. 404, salad-oil
\ a pint of gravy, dripping for basting, apple sauce (see No 316).
Method. — Remove the bones down to the knuckle bone, break them
into smaller pieces, and simmer them for gravy. Make the forcemeat
as directed, press it lightly inside the leg, and secure the opening.
Score the skin in narrow strips, brush over with salad-oil, and either
roast it before a clear fire, or bake it in a moderate oven ( see “ Notes on
Roasting,” p. 428). Serve the gravy and apple sauce in sauce-boats.
Time. — Allow 25 minutes to each lb. of meat. Average Cost, 9d.
per lb.
1 100. — PORK CHEESE.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of cold roast pork, 1 dessertspoonful of finely-
RECIPES FOR COOKING PORK
641
chopped parsley, J of a teaspoonful of powdered sage, J of a tea-
spoonful of mixed herbs, \ a teaspoonful of grated lemon-rind, \ of. a
teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, salt and pepper, \ a pint of gravy or
stock, sufficiently strong to form a jelly when cold.
Method. — Cut the meat into dice, using more or less of the fat, accord-
ing to taste. Add to it the parsley, sage, herbs, lemon-rind, nutmeg,
and a liberal seasoning of salt and pepper, and mix well together.
Press tightly into a mould, fill up with gravy, and bake about ij hours
in a moderate oven. When cold, turn out of the mould and garnish
with parsley.
Time. — About i]- hours. Average Cost, is. 3d. in addition to the stock.
Sufficient for 5 persons.
English Mode of Hunting and Indian Pig-Sticking. — Wild boar hunting is a sport of great
antiquity, affording the highest interest and excitement. The kings of Assyria are depicted on the
sculptured tablets of the Palace of Nineveh engaged in this royal pastime. The Greeks were passion-
ately attached to this sport, and although the Romans do not appear to have been addicted to hunting,
wild boar fights formed part of their gladiatorial shows in the amphitheatre. In France, Britaiif
and Germany, from early times, the boar hunt was a favourite pastime of royalty and the
nobility. The hunter was armed only with a boar-spear, about four feet in length, the ash staff pro-
tected with plates of steel, and terminating in a long narrow, and very sharp blade, and a hunting-
knife or hanger. Thus equipped the hunter encountered his foe face to face, as the boar, with erect
tail, depressed head, and flaming eyes, charged the hunter with his tusks. But, expert as the hunter
might be, the boar would sometimes sieze the spear in his formidable teeth and crush it like a reed,
or, coming full tilt against his assailant, by his momentum and weight hurl him to the ground, and
with his sharp tusks rip up with a terrible gash the leg or side of the hunter, before the latter had
time to draw and use his knife. At other times the boar would suddenly swerve from his charge,
and doubling on his opponent, attack him in the rear. From his speed, great weight, and savage
temper, the wild boar is always a dangerous antagonist, and great courage, coolness and agility are
requisite on the part of the hunter. Boar hunting has been for some centuries obsolete in Britain,
but it is still carried on in the extensive forests of Germany and Austria. The Continental sports-
man rides to the chase in a cavalcade with music and boar-dogs. The boar-dog is a small hound
or mastiff, and is trained to attack the boar, harassing him until he is wearied out, when the huntsman
rides up and despatches the boar with his lance. In India, especially in Bengal, the sport is engaged
in by English officers and other European sportsmen, and is of a very exciting character, as the boar
which inhabits the cane-brakes and jungles is a formidable foe. The hunters mounted on small,
active horses, and armed only with long lances, ride at early daybreak to the skirts of the jungle)
and having sent in their attendants to beat the cover, wait until their tusked antagonist comes crash-
ing from among the canes, when chase is immediately given, and he is overtaken and transfixed
with the lance. The boar, however, frequently turns to bay, with the result that the hunters and their
horses are dangerously wounded.
HOI.— PORK CUTLETS OR CHOPS. (Fr.— Cotelettes
de Pore.)
Ingredients.— 6 or 7 small lean chops, 1} ozs. of butter, 1 large onion
cut into dice, 2 sheets of gelatine, a few drops of liquid caramel, salt
and pepper, tomato No. 281 or apple sauce No. 316.
Method. — Trim the chops into a good shape, and remove the greater
part of the fat. Put any bones, lean trimmings, and the onion into a
stewpan with barely sufficient water to cover them, and boil gently
for at least 1 hour. Heat the butter in a saute- or frying-pan, and fry
the chops slowly, to cook them thoroughly. In the meantime, strain
the gravy, skim off the fat, rub the onion through a fine sieve, replace
in the stewpan with the gelatine, which is intended to give it con-
sistency, but when convenient may be replaced with glaze, which im-
proves the flavour. Season to taste, and brighten the colour by adding
a few drops of liquid caramel. Arrange the cutlets in a close circle
Y
642
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
on a potato border, pour the sauce (which must be thick enough to
coat the cutlets) over them, and serve the tomato or apple sauce
separately.
Time. — To fry the-chops, from 15 to 20 minutes. Average Cost, iod.
per lb. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
1102. — PORK CUTLETS, GRILLED. {Fr.— Cote-
lettes de Pore grillees aux Cornichons.)
Ingredients. — 7 or 8 lean cutlets cut from the best end of the neck,
2\ ozs. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, \ a pint of gravy or stock, 2 table-
spoonfuls of chopped gherkins, 1 tablespoonful of vinegar, salt and
pepper.
Method.— Trim off nearly all the fat, and make the cutlets a good
uniform shape. Season both sides of them with salt and pepper, dip
them in warm butter, coat carefully with breadcrumbs, and grill over
a clear fire for 20 minutes, turning them 3 or 4 times. Pour the re-
mainder of the butter into a small stewpan, add the flour, stir over the
fire for 2 or 3 minutes, put in the gravy and vinegar, boil up, season
to taste, and add the gherkins. Arrange the cutlets in a close circle
on a hot dish, pour the sauce round, and serve.
Time. — 20 minutes, to grill the cutlets. Average Cost, iod. per lb.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
1103. — PORK CUTLETS WITH ROBERT SAUCE.
{Fr.— Cotelettes de Pore a la Robert.)
Ingredients. — 8 or 9 cutlets from the best end of the neck, l- a pint
of Robert sauce ( see No. 272). For the marinade or brine : 2 or 3 table-
spoonfuls of salad-oil, 1 teaspoonful of vinegar, \ a teaspoonful of
powdered sage, salt and pepper.
Method. — Trim the cutlets neatly, leaving about \ an inch of fat round
each one. Place them on a dish, pour over the marinade, and let them
remain in it for 1 hour, turning them frequently. Drain well, and broil
over a clear fire for about 20 minutes. Or, if preferred, fry the cutlets
in a little hot butter, in a saute-pan. Arrange them in a close circle
on a hot dish, pour the Robert sauce round, and serve.
Time. — To cook, about 20 minutes. Average Cost, iod. per lb. Suffi-
cient for 5 or 6 persons.
1104. — PORK CUTLETS WITH SOUBISE SAUCE.
( Fr . — Cotelettes de Pore a la Soubise.)
Ingredients. — 8 or 9 cutlets from the best end of the neck, 4 a pint
of thick Soubise sauce, ^ of a pint of demi-glace sauce ( see No. 242),
marinade as in preceding recipe, salt and pepper.
Method. — Prepare and marinade the cutlets as directed in the pre-
RECIPES FOR COOKING PORK
643
ceding recipe, and either grill them from 15 to 18 minutes over a clear
fire, or fry them for the same length of time in hot butter, in a saute-
or frying-pan. Dish them in a circle, serve the Soubise sauce in the
centre, and pour the demi-glace sauce round the base of the dish.
Time. — To fry or grill, about 20 minutes. Average Cost, iod. per lb.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
1105. — PORK CUTLETS, OR CHOPS. (Fr.— Cote-
lettes de Pore grillees aux Tomates.)
Ingredients. — 2\ lb. of loin or neck of pork, i- a pint of tomato sauce
(see No. 281), salad-oil or oiled butter, salt and pepper.
Method. — Remove the greater part of the fat, divide the meat into
cutlets, and trim them into a good shape. Brush over with salad-oil
or butter, sprinkle both sides with salt and pepper, and grill the cutlets
over a clear fire for about 15 minutes, turning them 3 or 4 times. Ar-
range neatly on a hot dish, pour the hot sauce round, and serve.
Time. — To grill the cutlets, about 20 minutes. Average Cost, iod.
per lb. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
1106. — PORK CUTLETS, OR CHOPS. {Fr.— Cote-
lettes de Pore Panees.)
Ingredients. — 2-|- lb. of loin or neck of pork, i-J- ozs. of butter, 1 teaspoon-
ful of powdered sage, breadcrumbs, salt and pepper, tomato sauce
No. 281 or piquante sauce 265.
Method. — Remove nearly all the fat from the cutlets, and trim them
into shape. Beat the egg, add to it the sage and a liberal seasoning
of salt and pepper, dip each cutlet in the mixture, and coat carefully
with breadcrumbs. Heat the butter in a saute-pan, and fry the cutlets
gently for about 20 minutes, turning them frequently. Arrange on a
border of mashed potato, pour the sauce round, and serve.
Time. — About 20 minutes, to cook the cutlets. Average Cost, iod.
per lb. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
1107. — PORK CUTLETS, HASH OF. (Fr.-Hachis de
Pore).
Ingredients.— The remains of cold loin of pork ; to 6 or 7 cutlets
allow 1 medium-sized Spanish onion coarsely-chopped, 1 oz. of butter,
1 dessertspoonful of flour, 1 teaspoonful of vinegar, 1 teaspoonful of
made mustard, -J- of a pint of good gravy, salt and pepper.
Method. — Divide the loin into neat cutlets, and trim away the greater
part of the fat. Melt the butter in a saute- or frying-pan, put in the
cutlets, fry them until both sides are lightly browned, then remove and
keep hot. Add the onions to the butter in the pan, fry until they
acquire a good brown colour, sprinkle in the flour, season with salt
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
644
and pepper, and cook for a few minutes longer to lightly brown the
flour. Now add the stock, vinegar, and mustard, boil up and pour the
mixture over the cutlets, which must be previously arranged in a close
circle on a hot dish.
Time. — About 5 minutes, to fry the cutlets. Average Cost, is. 6d.
to is. 9d. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
1108. — PORK, HASHED. (Fr— Ragout de Pore.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of either cold roast or boiled pork, i-t ozs. of butter,
1 dessertspoonful of Worcester sauce, 1 dessertspoonful of ketchup,
1 small teaspoonful of made mustard, \ a teaspoonful of lemon-juice,
cayenne, salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the meat into small slices, and sprinkle them with salt
and a very little cayenne. Put the butter, Worcester sauce, ketchup,
lemon-juice and mustard into a stewpan, and, when quite hot, add the
slices of meat, and allow them to remain for 1 5 or 20 minutes, to become
thoroughly impregnated with the flavour of the sauce. Shake the stew-
pan, or stir the contents occasionally, but on no account allow the sauce
to boil.
Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, is. 3d. Sufficient for 4
or 5 persons.
1109. — PORK, HASHED. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of cold roast pork, \ a pint of gravy or stock,
I oz. of butter, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, 1 tablespoonful of vinegar,
i of a saltspoonful of salt, 2 cloves, salt and pepper, 2 onions.
Method. — Cut the meat into small slices, sprinkle them with salt
and pepper, and cut the onions into thin slices. Melt the butter in a
stewpan, fry the onion until lightly browned, sprinkle in the flour,
stir and cook these over the fire for about 5 minutes, then add the stock,
vinegar, cloves, mace, and necessary seasoning, and stir until boiling.
Simmer for 10 minutes to thoroughly cook the flour, then draw the stew-
pan to the side of the stove, put in the slices of meat, cover closely,
and let them remain for about \ an hour. Shake the stewpan occasion-
ally or stir the contents, which must be kept hot but not allowed to
boil. Arrange the slices of meat neatly on a hot dish, and strain the
sauce over them. The dish may be garnished with sippets of toast,
or, if preferred, the hash may be served with a border of mashed
potato.
Time. — Altogether, about 45 minutes. Average Cost, is. 5d. Suffi-
cient for 4 or s persons.
1 1 10. — PORK KIDNEY, FRITTERS OF. (Fr.- Fritots
de Rognons.)
Ingredients. — 2 pig’s kidneys, pig’s caul, £ of a pint of brown sauce,
RECIPES FOR COOKING PORK
645
2 yolks of eggs, 1 finely-chopped shallot, 4 a teaspoonful of finely-
chopped parsley, 1 oz. of butter, frying-fat. For the batter : 2 ozs.
of flour, \ a gill of tepid water, 1 tablespoonful of salad-oil or warm'
butter, the white of 1 egg, 1 saltspoonful of salt.
Method. — Remove the skins and cores, and cut the kidneys into dice.
Heat the butter in a stewpan, fry the shallot slightly, add the parsley
and kidneys, cook gently for 5 minutes, then drain away the butter,
and, if preferred, use it instead of salad-oil for the batter. Make the
brown sauce as directed, No. 233, cool slightly, then pour it on to the
yolks of eggs, stirring all the time. Have this sauce ready to add to
the kidneys, pour it over them, season to taste, stir by the side of the
fire untd the yolks thicken, then turn on to a plate to cool. Meanwhile,
wash the caul in salt and water, dry well, and cut into 3-inch squares.
Make a smooth batter of the flour, water, salt, and salad-oil or butter,
then add the white of egg stiffly whipped. When the mixture is cold
divide it into small portions, enclose them in the pieces of caul, dip
them into the batter, and fry until brown in hot fat.
Time. — 1^ hours. Average Cost, is. 6d. to is. qd. Sufficient for
4 persons.
Note. — For other methods of cooking kidney, see recipes for veal, beef and
lamb.
mi.— PORK, LOIN OF, GERMAN STYLE.
( Fr . — Longe de Pore a l’Allemande.)
Ingredients. — A loin of pork, \ a pint of malt vinegar, 1 large Spanish
onion sliced, 10 fresh sage leaves, 10 juniper berries, 24 peppercorns,
6 cloves, 1 tablespoonful of salt, with the addition of a little thyme,
basil, or other herbs preferred.
Method. — Remove the skin and any superfluous fat, and place the
meat in a deep earthenware dish. Add all the ingredients enumerated
above, and let the meat remain in the marinade 4 or 5 days, turning
and basting it daily. When ready, put both meat and marinade into
an earthenware baking-dish, add \ a pint of boiling water, and cook
very gently in the oven from 2\ to 3 hours, basting frequently. Strain
the gravy, and serve a little poured over the meat, and the remainder
separately.
Time. — To cook, from 2J to 3 hours. Average Cost, iod. per lb.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable in the winter.
1 1 12.— PORK, LOIN OF, STUFFED. (Fr.— Longe de
Pore Farcie.)
Ingredients. — A loin of pork, onion stuffing, No. 404, gravy ( see
“ Gravies ”), apple sauce, No. 316.
Method. — Score the skin in narrow lines, and make an opening for
the stuffing by separating the meat from the bone on the inner side.
Gq6
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
After putting in the stuffing secure the opening, wrap the ioin in a
greased paper, and roast before a clear fire, or in a moderately hot
oven for about 2 hours. Baste frequently, and \ an hour before serving
remove the paper to allow the crackling to brown. Serve the gravy
and apple sauce separately.
Time. —About 2 hours. Average Cost, qd. to iod. per lb. Sufficient
for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable in the winter.
Note. — The sage and onion stuffing may be baked and served separately
or altogether omitted.
1 1 13. — PORK, LOIN OF, SAVOURY. (Fr.— Longe de
Pore, Savoureux.)
Ingredients. — 3 or 4 lb. of loin of pork, 1 tablespoonful of finely-
chopped onion, -J- a teaspoonful of powdered sage, \ a teaspoonful of
salt, 1 saltspoonful of dry mustard, \ a saltspoonful of pepper. Apple
sauce, brown gravy.
Method. — Score the pork in narrow lines, mix the onion, sage, salt,
mustard and pepper together, and rub the mixture well into the meat.
Wrap the joint in well-greased paper, and bake in front of a clear fire
for about 2 hours, basting frequently. Half an hour before serving
remove the paper, in order that the crackling may become crisp and
brown. Serve the apple sauce and gravy separately.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, 9d. to iod. per lb. Sufficient
for 7 or 8 persons. Seasonable in the winter.
1 1 14. — PORK, MINCED.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of cold roast pork, 2 onions finely-chopped,
2 apples coarsely-chopped, 2 ozs. of butter, x dessertspoonful of flour,
1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, of a pint of stock, dry mustard, salt and
pepper.
Method. — Cut the meat into very small dice, and, unless gravy or
good stock is at hand, boil the bones and trimmings for at least 1 hour,
then strain and boil rapidly until reduced to |- of a pint. Melt the
butter in a stewpan, fry the onion until lightly browned, then add the
apple, and fry until tender, but not broken. Spi'inkle in the flour
ahd a good pinch of mustard, stir and cook gently for 3 or 4 minutes,
then add the stock, and stir until boiling. Season to taste, boil gently
for 5 miirutes, then put in the meat, add the lemon-juice, and allow the
stewpan to stand for about \ an hour where the contents will remain
just below simmering point. Serve in a border of rice, or mashed potato,
or garnished with sippets of toasted bread.
Time. — To re-heat the meat, about } an hour. Average Cost, is. 6d. to
is. 8d. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable in winter.
RECIPES FOR COOKING PORK
647
1115. — PORK MOULD.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of cold roast pork, 2 tablespoonfuls of mashed
potato, 1 teaspoonful of parboiled and finely-chopped onion, {- of a
pint of sour cream or milk (about), salt and pepper, brown breadcrumbs,
l a pint of gravy.
Method. — Remove the skin and greater part of the fat from the meat,
chop it finely, and add to it the onion. Season highly with salt and
pepper, and work in sufficient sour cream or milk to bind the mixture
together. Coat a well-buttered mould or pie-dish thickly with brown
breadcrumbs, put in the mixture, and bake for about f- of an hour
in a moderate oven. The mixture may also be formed into small
cakes, coated with egg and breadcrumbs, and fried. The gravy may
be made from the bones and trimmings of the meat, and should be
served separately.
Time. — To cook, about f of an hour. Sufficient for 2 or 3 persons.
1116. — PORK PIE.
Ingredients. — lb. of lean pork, 1 lb. of household flour, 6 ozs. of
lard, 1 small onion, £ of a pint of water, cayenne, pepper and salt.
Method. — Cut the meat into dice, and season it well with salt and
pepper. Place the bones in a stewpan, add the onion, salt and pepper,
cover with cold water, and simmer for at least 2 hours to extract the
gelatine, in order that the gravy, when cold, may be a firm jelly. Put
the flour into a large basin, and add to it a good pinch of salt. Boil
the lard and water together for 5 minutes, then add it to the flour,
stirring it thoroughly until cool enough to be kneaded. Knead
until smooth, cover with a cloth, and let the basin stand near the fire
for about an hour. Throughout the whole process the paste must
be kept warm, otherwise moulding may be extremely difficult ; but
overheating must also be avoided, for when the paste is too soft it is
unable to support its own weight. At the end of this time, re-knead
the paste, put aside about for the lid, and raise the remainder into
a round, or oval form, as may be preferred. If an inexperienced worker
finds any difficulty in raising the pie by hand alone, a small jar may be
placed in the centre of the paste, and the paste moulded over it. When
the lower part of the pic has been raised to the necessary shape and
thinness, subsequent work may be made much easier by putting in
some of the meat, and pressing it firmly down to support the lower part
of the pie. Before adding the lid, moisten the meat with 2 or 3 table-
spoonfuls of the prepared seasoned gravy; the remainder is re-heated, and
added after the pie is baked and still hot. Three or four folds of greased
paper should be pinned round the pie to preserve its shape, and prevent
it becoming too brown. The pie should be baked for at least 2 hours
in a moderate oven, and its appearance is greatly improved by brushing
648
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
it over with yolk of egg when about f baked. Slices of hard boiled
egg are often added with the meat.
Time. — To bake, about 2 hours. Average Cost, is. 6d. to is. 8d.
Sufficient for 1 medium-sized pie.
1 1 17.— POTTED HAM.
Ingredients. — To 2 lb. of lean ham allow \ a lb. of fat, \ of a teaspoon-
ful of ground mace, J of a teaspoonful of nutmeg, J of a teaspoonful
of pepper, £ of a teaspoonful of cayenne, clarified butter.
Method. — Pass the ham 2 or 3 times through a mincing machine,
or chop it finely, pound it well in a mortar with the seasoning, and rub
it through a fine sieve. Put it into a buttered pie-dish, cover with a
buttered paper, and bake in a moderate oven for about f of an hour.
When done, press into small pots, and as soon as it is quite cold cover
with clarified butter.
Time. — To bake, about J of an hour. Average Cost, 2s. 3d. to 2s. qd.
Importance of the Boar’s Head. — In ancient times the boar’s head formed the most important
dish, and on Christmas Day was invariably the first placed upon the table, its entrance into the hall
being preceded by a body of servitors, a flourish of trumpets, and other marks of distinction. The
dish itself was borne by the individual next in rank to the lord of the feast. The custom of serving
a boar’s head on a silver platter on Christmas Day is still observed at some colleges and Inns of
Court. So highly was the grizzly boar’s head regarded in the Middle Ages that it passed into the
cognizance of some of the noblest families in the realm ; thus it was not only the crest of the Nevilles
and Warwicks with their collateral houses, but it was the cognizance of Richard III. It was also a
favourite sign for taverns. The Boar's Head, which formerly stood in Eastcheap will be familiar
to every reader of Shakespeare as the resort of the Prince of Wales, Poins, and his companions, and
the residence of Falstaff, and his knaves Bardolph, Pistol and Nym. Its sign of the boar’s head was
carved in stone over the entrance ; a smaller one, fashioned in wood, was placed on each side of the
doorway.
Many traditions and deeds of savage vengeance are recorded in connexion with this grim trophy
of the chase in all parts of Europe.
1 1 18. —SAUSAGES, TO BOIL.
Ingredients. — Sausages.
Method. — Prick the sausages with a fork, throw them into boiling
water, and cook gently for 15 minutes. Serve on buttered toast or
mashed potato. Or, let them cool slightly, remove the skins, coat
with egg and breadcrumbs, and fry in hot butter or fat until crisp and
brown.
Time. — To boil, 15 minutes. Average Cost, 8d. to iod. per lb.
1 1 19. — SAUSAGES, TO FRY.
Ingredients. — Sausages, frying-fat.
Method. — Prick the sausages well with a fork, as this prevents the
skins breaking. Put the sausages into a frying-pan containing a
little hot fat, and fry gently, turning 2 or 3 times, so as to brown them
equally. Serve on mashed potato or toasted bread.
Time. — About 10 minutes. Average Cost, 8d. to iod. per lb.
RECIPES FOR COOKING PORK
649
1120. — SAVOURY LIVER.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of pig’s liver, 1 lb. of potatoes, J a lb. of onions,
J a teaspoonful of powdered sage, 1 teaspoonful of salt, \ of a teaspoon-
ful of pepper, 4 a pint of water, apple sauce (see No. 316).
Method.— Wash and dry the liver, cut it into rather thick slices, cut
the onions into small dice, and slice the potatoes. Place a layer of
potato at the bottom of a greased pie-dish, cover with slices of liver,
add a good sprinkling of onion, and season well with salt and pepper.
Repeat until all the materials are used, letting potato form the top
layer. Pour in the water, cover with a greased paper, and bake slowly
for 2 hours. Towards the end, remove the paper to allow the potatoes
to brown. Serve with apple sauce.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, iod. to is., exclusive of the apple
sauce. Sufficient for 3 or 6 persons.
1 121. — SAVOURY PUDDING.
Ingredients. — 4 a lb. of fine oatmeal, 4 a lb. of stale bread, 4 a lb. of
finely-chopped suet, 2 large onions, 1 teaspoonful of salt, 4 of a teaspoon-
ful of pepper, \ a teaspoonful of powdered sage, 4 of a teaspoonful of
powdered mixed herbs, 2 eggs.
Method. — Soak the bread in hot water for 4 an hour, then drain away
any unabsorbed liquid, and beat out the lumps with a fork. Boil the
onions in salt and water for 4 an hour, then chop them coarsely. Mix
all the ingredients, adding the beaten eggs last. Melt as much dripping
in a Yorkshire pudding tin as will form a very thin layer, put in the
mixture, spread it evenly with a knife, and bake for about 1 hour in a
moderate oven. When done, cut into squares, and serve with good
gravy. This pudding may be served with pork, duck or goose. In
Yorkshire, this pudding, like the batter pudding that takes its name
from the county, is served separately, and before the meat.
Time. — To bake, about 1 hour. Average Cost, iod., for this quantity.
Sufficient for 8 persons.
1122. — SAVOURY TENDERLOIN OF PORK.
Ingredients. — 6 pork chops, preferably from the lean part under the
shoulder, known (according to locality) as spare rib, tenderloin or
neck, 2 lb. of Spanish onions, flour, sage, powdered mixed herbs,
salt and pepper.
Method. — Mix together a small teaspoonful of salt , and a 4 of a teaspoon-
ful each of pepper, sage and mixed herbs. Put this seasoning, the onions
cut into dice, and a 4-pint of cold water into a fireproof stew-jar, cover
with a close-fitting lid, and cook gently on the stove or in the oven
for about i-\- hours, stirring occasionally. When the onions are about
half-cooked, place the chops in a baking-tin, in which a little fat has been
previously melted. Mix together a ^-teaspoonful each of sage, herbs,
650
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
and salt, and the quantity of pepper, sprinkle Jr this seasoning on the
chops before putting them in the oven, cook gently for 15 minutes,
then turn them, sprinkle on the remainder of the seasoning, and cook
for 15 minutes longer. Drain off every particle of fat, being careful
not to disturb the sediment, sprinkle a tablespoonful of flour on the
chops and the bottom of the tin, and return to the oven. When the
flour is brown, empty the contents of the stew-jar into the baking-tin,
and mix the onions well with the browned flour, using an iron spoon to
clear the bottom of the tin. Return to the oven for a few minutes,
then arrange the chops neatly overlapping each other on a hot dish,
and serve the onions and gravy in the centre.
Time. — About i\ hours. Average Cost, 2s. Sufficient for 5 or 6
persons.
1123. — STUFFED PIG’S FEET. (Fy . — Pieds de Pore,
Farcis.)
Ingredients. — 4 pig’s feet, 1 tablespoonful of flour, 1 egg, breadcrumbs.
For the stuffing : 2 tablespoonfuls of cooked and finely-chopped onion.
1 small tablespoonful of breadcrumbs, \ a teaspoonful of powdered
sage, 1 tablespoonful of oiled butter, \ a teaspoonful of made mustard,
\ a teaspoonful of salt, J of a teaspoonful of pepper.
Method. — Put the feet into a stewpan with a teaspoonful of salt,
cover with cold water, and boil gently for about 3 hours. When done,
split the feet, remove the bones, and press the forcemeat made of the
above ingredients into the cavities. Replace the halves together,
and press between 2 dishes, with a heavy weight on the top, until cold.
When ready to use, cut the feet into slices about 1 inch in thickness,
roll each piece in flour, brush over with egg, coat with breadcrumbs,
and fry until nicely browned in hot fat. Or, if preferred, fry them in
a little hot butter in a saute-pan. Garnish with fried parsley before
serving.
Time. — 5 or 6 hours. Average Cost, is. to is. 6d. Sufficient for 5 or 6
persons.
1124. — SUCKING PIG, ROASTED. (Fr.— Cochon de
Lait roti.)
Ingredients. — A sucking pig, not more than 3 weeks old, butter, or
salad-oil to baste with, onion forcemeat ( see No. 404).
Method. — Make the forcemeat as directed, put it inside the pig, and
close the opening by means of a trussing needle and string. Brush the
entire surface of the pig with salad-oil or warmed butter, wrap it in
several folds of well-oiled or well-greased paper, draw the legs well
back, tie into shape, and either roast or bake the pig for 2} or 3 hours,
according to its size. It should be thoroughly well basted, and about
RECIPES FOR COOKING PORK
651
i an hour before the time of serving, the paper must be removed, and
the pig brushed over with thick cream or salad-oil to improve the
colour, and crisp the surface. Before serving, cut off the head, and split
the pig down the centre of the back ; lay the 2 halves on a dish, divide
the head, and place \ at each end of the dish. The usual accompani-
ments are brown arid apple sauces, and sometimes hot currants : the
latter should be prepared the day before. To make them plump, they
must be scalded, and afterwards thoroughly dried. Re-heat in the oven
before serving.
Time. — From 2-} to 3 hours. Average Cost, from 6s. to 10s. 6d. Suffi-
cient for 8 or 9 persons.
How Roast Pig was Discovered. — Charles Lamb, in his delightfully quaint prose sketches,
written under the title of the Essays of Elia , has devoted one paper to the subject of Roast Pip,, de-
scribing in his own inimitable, quiet, humorous manner how the toothsome dainty known as crackling
first became known to the world.
According to this authority, man in the golden — or, at all events, the primitive — age, ate his pork
and bacon raw, as indeed he ate his beef and mutton. At the epoch of the story, a citizen of some
Scythian community had the misfortune to have his hut, containing his live stock of pigs, burnt
down. In going over the debris to pick out the available salvage, the proprietor touched something
very hot, which caused him to put his suffering fingers into his mouth. The act was simple, but the
result was wonderful. He rolled his eyes in ecstasy and conscious of an unwonted and celestial
odour, with distended nostrils, and drawing in deep inspirations of the ravishing perfume, he sucked
his fingers again and again. Clearing away the rubbish of his ruined hut, there was disclosed to his
view one of his pigs roasted to death. Stooping down to examine it, and touching its body, a frag-
ment of the burnt skin became detached, and in a spirit of philosophical inquiry the man put it into
his mouth. No pen can describe the felicity he then enjoyed — it was then that he — the w'orld — first
tasted crackling. For a time the Scythian carefully kept his secret, and feasted in secret upon his
newly-found luxury. When the pig was at last eaten up, the poor man fell into a deep melancholy,
refused his accustomed food, lost his appetite, and became reduced to a shadow. Unable to endure
the torments of memory from which he suffered hourly, he rose up one night and secretly set fire
to his hut, and once more was restored to health and spirits. Finding it impossible to live in future
without his newfy discovered delicacy, every time his larder became empty he set fire to his house,
until his neighbours becoming scandalized by these incendiary acts, brought his conduct before the
supreme council of the nation. To avert the penalty threatened him, he brought his judges to the
smouldering ruins, and discovering his secret, he invited them to eat ! With tears of gratitude the
august synod embraced him, and with an overflowing feeling of ecstasy dedicated a statue to the
memory of the man who first instituted roast pork.
1125. — TENDERLOIN, FRIED. (Fr. — Tendrons de
Pore.)
Ingredients. — Tenderloin chops ( see “ Savoury Tenderloin ”), sage
salt and pepper, frying-fat.
Method. — Place the chops in a frying-pan containing a little hot
fat, sprinkle lightly with sage, salt and pepper, cook gently for 10
minutes, then turn and sprinkle the other side. Cook slowly for 10
minutes longer, then remove the chops and keep them hot, and pour
away all the fat. Add a little boiling water to the sediment in the
frying-pan, season to taste with salt and pepper, boil up, pour round
the chops, and serve.
Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, /d. or 8d. per lb. Allow
I large or 2 small chcps to each persons. Seasonable. — Obtainable
at any time.
652 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1126. — TO SCALD A SUCKING-PIG. (Fr.— Cochon de
Lait.)
Put the pig into cold water directly it is killed; let it remain for a few
minutes, then immerse it in a large pan of boiling water for 2 minutes.
Take it out, lay it on a table, and pull off the hair as quickly as possible.
When the skin looks clean, make a slit down the belly, take out the
entrails, well clean the nostrils and ears, wash the pig in cold water, and
wipe it thoroughly dry. Take off the feet at the first joint, and loosen
and leave sufficient skin to turn neatly over. If not to be dressed im-
mediately, fold it in a wet cloth, to exclude the air.
1127. — TO SMOKE HAMS AND FISH AT HOME.
Take an old hogshead, stop all the crevices, and fix a place to put
a cross-stick near the bottom, to hang the articles to be smoked on.
Next, in the side, cut a hole near the top, to introduce an iron pan
tilled with sawdust and small pieces of green wood. Having turned
the tub upside down, hang the articles upon the cross-stick, introduce
the iron pan in the opening, place a piece of red-hot iron in the pan,
cover it with sawdust, and all will be complete. Let a large ham
remain for 40 hours, and keep up a good smoke.
1128. — TO CURE BACON OR HAMS IN THE DEVON-
SHIRE WAY.
Ingredients. — To every 14 lb. of meat allow 2 ozs. of saltpetre, 2 ozs.
of salt prunella, 1 lb. of common salt. For the pickle : 3 gallons of
water, 5 lb. of common salt, 7 lb. of coarse sugar, 3 lb. of bay-salt.
Method. — Weigh the sides, hams and cheeks, and to every r4 lb.
allow the above proportion of saltpetre, salt prunella and common
salt. Pound and mix these together. Rub well into the meat, and
lay it in a stone trough or tub, rubbing it thoroughly, turning
it daily for 2 successive days. At the end of the second day, pour
on it a pickle made as follows : Put the above ingredients into a sauce-
pan, set it on the fire, stir frequently, remove all the scum, allow
it to boil for 15 minutes, and pour it hot over the meat. Let the
hams, etc., be well rubbed and turned daily ; if the meat is small, a
fortnight will be sufficient for the sides and shoulders to remain in the
pickle, and the hams 3 weeks ; if from 30 lb. and upwards, 3 weeks
will be required for the sides, etc., and from 4 to 5 weeks for the hams.
On taking the pieces out let them drain for 1 hour, cover with dry
sawdust, and smoke from a fortnight to 3 weeks. Boil and carefully
skim the pickle after using, and it will keep good, closely corked, for 2
years. When boiling it for use, add about 2 lb. of common salt, and
the same quantity of treacle, to allow for waste. Tongues are excellent
RECIPES FOR COOKING PORK
653
put into this pickle cold, having been first rubbed with saltpetre and
salt, and allowed to remain 24 hours, not forgetting to make a deep
incision under the thick part of the tongue, to allow the pickle to pene-
trate more readily. A fortnight or 3 weeks, according to the size of the
tongue, will be sufficient.
Time. — Small meat to remain in the pickle 2 weeks, hams 3 weeks ;
to be smoked from 2 to 3 weeks.
1129.— TO CURE BACON IN THE WILTSHIRE WAY.
Ingredients. — ij- lb. of coarse sugar, lb. of bay-salt, 6 ozs. of salt-
petre, 1 lb. of common salt.
Method. — Sprinkle each flitch with salt, and let the blood drain off
for 24 hours ; then pound and mix the above ingredients together
and rub it well into the meat, which should be turned every day for
1 month. Hang it up to dry, and afterwards smoke it for 10 days.
Time. — To remain in the pickle, 1 month ; to be smoked, 10 days.
Sufficient for 1 pig.
How Pigs were formerly Pastured and Fed. — In feudal times immense droves of pigs were
kept in England by the barons and franklins, the swine-herds forming a regular part of the domestic
service of every feudal household. Their duty consisted in daily driving the herd of swine from the
castle-yard, or outlying farm, to the nearest wood, chase, or forest, where the franklin or vavasour
had, either by right or grant, the liberty — called / ree warren — to feed his pigs off the acorns, beech
nuts, and chestnuts which lay in abundance on the ground. In Germany, where the chestnut is
largely cultivated, the amount of food furnished by the trees in the autumn is enormous, and both
wild and domestic swine have for a considerable part of the year an unfailing supply of excellent
nourishment.
1130.— TO CURE HAMS. (M. Ude’s Recipe.)
Ingredients. — For 2 hams, weighing each about 16 or 18 lb., allow
1 lb. of moist sugar, 1 lb. of common salt, 2 ozs. of saltpetre, 1 quart
of good vinegar.
Method. — As soon as the pig is cold enough to be cut up, take th?
2 hams, rub them well with common salt, and leave them in a large
pan for 3 days. When the salt has drawn out all the blood, drain the
hams and throw the brine away. Mix sugar, salt and saltpetre to-
gether in the above proportion, rub the hams well with these, and put
them into a vessel large enough to hold them, always keeping the salt
over them. Let them remain for 3 days, then pour over them 1 quart
of good vinegar. Turn them in the brine every day for a month, then
drain them well, and rub them with bran. Have them smoked over
a wood fire, and be particular that the hams are hung as high as possible
from the fire ; otherwise the fat will melt, and they will become dry
and hard.
Time. — To be pickled, 1 month ; to be smoked, 1 month. Sufficient
for 2 hams of 18 lb. each.
654 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1131. — TO CURE HAMS. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — To 2 hams allow 2 lb. of treacle, J a lb. of saltpetre,
1 lb. of bay-salt, 2 lb. of common salt.
Method. — 2 days before they are put into pickle, rub the hams well
with salt, to draw away all slime and blood. Throw away what comes
from them, rub them with treacle, saltpetre and salt, lay them in a
deep pan, and let them remain 1 day. Boil the above proportion of
treacle, saltpetre, bay-salt and common salt for 15 minutes, and pour
this pickle boiling hot over the hams. There should be sufficient of it
to cover them. For a day or two rub them well with it, afterwards
they will only require turning. They ought to remain in this pickle
for 3 weeks or a month, and then be sent to be smoked, which will take
nearly or quite a month to do. An ox-tongue, to be eaten either
green or smoked, pickled in this way is excellent.
Time. — To remain in the pickle, 3 weeks or a month ; to be smoked,
about 1 month.
1132. — TO CURE HAMS (Westmoreland Recipe.)
Ingredients. — 3 lb. of common salt, 3 lb. of coarse sugar, 1 lb. of bay-
salt, 3 quarts of strong beer.
Method. — Before the hams are put into pickle, rub them the pre-
ceding day well with salt, and thoroughly drain the brine from them.
Put the above ingredients into a saucepan, and boil for 15 minutes ;
pour over the hams, and let them remain 1 month in the pickle. Rub
and turn them every day, but do not take them out of the pickling-
pan, and have them smoked for a month.
Time. — To be pickled, 1 month ; to be smoked, 1 month.
1133. — TO CURE HAMS (Suffolk Recipe).
Ingredients. — To a ham from 10 to 12 lb., allow 1 lb. of coarse sugar,
| of a lb. of salt, 1 oz. of saltpetre, \ a teacupful of vinegar.
Method. — Rub the hams well with common salt, and leave them
for a day or two to drain ; then rub well in the above proportion of
sugar, salt, saltpetre and vinegar, and turn them every other day.
Keep them in the pickle 1 month, drain them, and send them to be
smoked over a wood fire for 3 weeks or a month.
Time. — To remain in the pickle, 1 month ; to be smoked, 3 weeks
or 1 month. Sufficient for 1 ham.
The following is from Morton’s “ Cyclopaedia of Agriculture.”
CURING OF HAMS AND BACON.
The carcass of the hog, after hanging over-night to cool, is laid on a
Strong bench or stool, and the head is separated from the body at the
RECIPES FOR COOKING PORK
655
neck, close behind the ears ; the feet and also the internal fat are re-
moved. The carcass is next divided into two sides in the following
manner : the ribs are divided about 1 inch from the spine on each side,
and the spine, with the ends of the ribs attached, together with the
internal flesh between it and the kidneys, and also the flesh above it,
throughout the whole length of the sides, are removed. The portion
of the carcass thus cut out is in the form of a wedge — the breadth
of the interior, consisting of the breadth of the spine and about 1 inch
of the ribs each side, being diminished to about -} an inch at the exterior
or skin along the back. The breast-bone, and also the first anterior
rib, are also dissected from the side. Sometimes the whole of the
ribs are removed ; but this, for reasons afterwards to be noted, is a very
bad practice. When the hams are cured separately from the sides,
which is generally the case, they are cut out so as to include the hock-
bone, in a similar way to the London mode of cutting a haunch of
mutton. The carcass of the hog thus cut up is ready for being salted,
which process, in large curing establishments, is generally as follows :
The skin side of the pork is rubbed over with a mixture of 50 parts by
weight of salt and 1 part of saltpetre in powder, and the incised parts
of the ham or flitch and the inside of the flitch covered with the same.
The salted bacon, in pairs of flitches with the insides to each other,
is piled one pair of flitches above another on benches slightly inclined,
and furnished with spouts or troughs to convey the brine to receivers
in the floor of the salting-house, to be afterwards used for pickling pork
for navy purposes. In this state the bacon remains a fortnight, which
is sufficient for flitches cut from hogs of a carcass-weight less than 15
stone (14 lb. to the stone). Flitches of a larger size, at the expiration
of that time, are wiped dry and reversed in their place in the pile,
having, at the same time, about half the first quantity of fresh, dry,
common salt sprinkled over the inside and incised parts ; after which
they remain on the benches for another week. Liams being thicker
than flitches, will require, when less than 20 lb. weight, 3 weeks; and
when above that weight, 4 weeks to remain under the above-described
process. The next and last process in the preparation of bacon and
hams, previous to being sent to market, is drying. This is effected
by hanging the flitches and hams for 2 or 3 weeks in a room heated by
stoves, or in a smoke-house, in which they are exposed for the same
length of time to the smoke arising from the slow combustion of the
sawdust of oak or other hard wood. The latter mode of completing
the curing process has some advantage over the other, as by it the meat
is subject to the action of creosote, a volatile oil produced by the com-
bustion of the sawdust, which is powerfully antiseptic. The process
also furnishing a thin covering of a resinous varnish, excludes the air
not only from the muscle, but also from the fat, thus effectually pre-
venting the meat from becoming rusted ; and the principal reasons for
condemning the practice of removing the ribs from the flitches of pork
656
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
arc that by so doing the meat becomes unpleasantly hard and pungent
in the process of salting, and by being more opposed to the action of the
air, becomes sooner and more extensively rusted. Notwithstanding
its superior efficacy in completing the process of curing, the flavour
which smoke-drying imparts to meat is disliked by many persons,
and it is therefore by no means the most general mode of drying adopted
by mercantile curers. A very impure variety of pyroligneous acid,
or vinegar made from the destructive distillation of wood, is sometimes
used on account of the highly preservative power of the creosote which
it contains, and also to impart the smoke-flavour; in which latter object,
however, the coarse flavour of tar is given, rather than that derived
from the smoke from combustion of wood. A considerable portion
of the bacon and hams salted in Ireland is exported from that country
packed amongst salt, in bales, immediately from the salting process,
without having been in any degree dried. In the process of salting
above described, pork loses from 8 to io per cent, of its weight, according
to the size and quality of the meat; and a further diminution of weight,
to the extent of 5 to 6 per cent., takes place in drying during the first
fortnight after being taken out of salt ; so that the total loss in weight
occasioned by the preparation of bacon and hams in a proper state for
market, is not less on an average than 15 per cent., on the weight of the
fresh pork.
1134. — TO CURE PIG’S CHEEKS.
Ingredients. — Salt, \ an oz. of saltpetre, 2 ozs. of bay-salt, 4 ozs. of
coarse sugar.
Method. — Cut out the snout, remove the brains and split the head,
taking off the upper bone to make the jowl a good shape. Rub it well
with salt ; next day take away the brine, and salt it again the following
day. Cover the head with saltpetre, bay-salt and coarse sugar in the
above proportion, adding a little common salt. Let the cheeks be often
turned, and when it has been in the pickle for 10 days, smoke it for
1 week or rather longer.
Time.- — To remain in the pickle, 10 days ; to be smoked, 1 week.
Average Cost, 6d. per lb.
1135. — TO CURE OR PICKLE PORK.
Ingredients. — £ of a lb. of saltpetre, salt.
Method. — As pork does not keep long without being salted, cut it
into pieces of a suitable size as soon as the pig is cold. Rub the pieces
of pork well with salt, put them into a pan with a sprinkling of it
between each piece, and as it dissolves on the top, sprinkle on more.
Lay a coarse cloth over the pan, and over it a board, and place a
weight on the board, to keep the pork down in the brine. If the air
be excluded, it will continue good for nearly 2 years.
BACON AND HAM,
Side of Bacon. i
6. Flank,
of Bacon.
Forelock. 2. Collar. 3. Streaky. 4. Prime
7. Long Back. 8. Gammon. 9. Corner.
12. Mild Cured Ham.
5. Small Back.
Ham. 11. Side
RECIPES FOR COOKING PORK
657
Avenge Cost, 9d. per lb., for the prime parts.
Wide Distribution of the Hog. — The hog is one of the most widely distributed of animals. It
is found evtn in places where the inhabitants are semi-barbarous, and where the wild species is un-
known. W^en the South Sea Islands were first discovered, they were found to be well stocked with
a small blackspecies of hog, the traditionary belief of the islanders being that the animals were coeval
with themselves. They had no knowledge of the wild boar from which the domestic breed might be
supposed to bederived. The hog is the principal quadruped of the South Sea Islands, and is fed upon
the fruit of the bread- tree, yams, and other vegetables, a diet which renders the flesh juicy, rich in
fat, and delicatt in flavour.
1136. — TO BAKE A HAM. (Fr. — Jambon roti.)
Ingredients. — Ham, a common crust.
Method. — As a ham for baking should be well soaked, let it remain
in water for at least 12 hours. Wipe it dry, trim away any rusty places
underneath, and cover it with a common crust, taking care that this
is of sufficient thickness all over to keep in the gravy. Place the ham
in a moderately heated oven, and bake for nearly 4 hours. Take off
the crust, and skin, and cover with raspings, the same as for boiled
ham, and garnish the knuckle with a paper frill.
1137. — TO BOIL A HAM. (Fr. — Jambon bouilli.)
Ingredients. — Ham, water, glaze or raspings.
Method. — In choosing a ham, ascertain that it is perfectly sweet, by
running a sharp knife into it, close to the bone ; if, when the knife is
withdrawn, it has an agreeable smell, the ham is good ; but, on the
contrary, should the blade have a greasy appearance and offensive
smell, the ham is bad. If it has been long hung, and it is very dry and
salt, let it remain in soak for 24 hours, changing the water frequently.
This length of time is only necessary in the case of the ham being very
hard ; from 8 to 12 hours would be sufficient for a Yorkshire or West-
moreland ham. Wash it thoroughly clean, and trim away from the
under-side all the rusty and smoked parts, which would spoil the ap-
pearance. Put it into a boiling-pot, with sufficient cold water to cover
it, bring it gradually to boil, and carefully remove the scum as it rises.
Keep it simmering very gently until tender, and be careful that it does
not stop boiling nor boil too quickly. When done take it out of the
pot, strip off the skin, sprinkle over it a few bread-raspings, put a
frill of cut paper round the knuckle, and serve. If to be eaten cold,
let the ham remain in the water until nearly cold ; by this method the
juices are kept in, and it will be found infinitely superior to one taken
out of the water hot. When the skin is removed, sprinkle over bread-
raspings, or glaze it.
Time. — A ham weighing 10 lb., 4 hours to simmer gently ; 15 lb.,
5 hours ; a very large one about 6 hours. Average Cost, from is. per lb.,
by the whole ham.
1138. — TO BOIL A HAM. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — Vinegar and water, 1 head of celery (or less), 2 turnips,
3 onions, a large bunch of savoury herbs.
658
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Prepare the ham as in the preceding recipe, and let it soak
for a few hours in vinegar and water. Put it on in cold water, and
when it boils add the vegetables and herbs. Simmer veiy gently
until tender, take it out, strip off the skin, cover with bread-raspings,
and put a paper ruche or frill round the knuckle.
Time. — A ham weighing io lb., 4 hours. Average Cost, is. per lb.,
by the whole ham.
1139. — TO BOIL BACON. (Fr. — Petit Lard Bouilli.)
Ingredients.— Bacon, water.
Method. — As bacon is frequently excessively salt, let it be soaked
in warm water for an hour or two previous to dressing it ; then pare off
the rusty parts, and scrape the under-side and rind as clean as possible.
Put it into a saucepan of cold water, let it come gradually to a boil,
and as fast as the scum rises to the surface of the water, remove it.
Let it simmer very gently until it is thoroughly done; then take it up,
strip off the skin, and sprinkle over the bacon a few bread-raspings
and garnish with tufts of cauliflower or Brussels sprouts. When served
alone, young and tender broad beans or green peas are the usual accom-
paniments.
Time. — 1 lb. of bacon, -f- of an hour; 2 lb., i-| hours. Average Cost,
iod. to is. per lb. for the prime parts.
1140. — TO BOIL PICKLED PORK.
Ingredients. — Pork, water.
Method. — Should the pork be very salt, let it remain in water about
2 hours before it is dressed. Put it into a saucepan with sufficient cold
water to cover it, let it gradually come to a boil, then gently simmer
until quite tender. Allow ample time for it to cook, as nothing is more
unwholesome than underdone pork, and, when boiled fast, the meat
becomes hard. This is sometimes served with boiled poultry and
roast veal, instead of bacon ; when tender, and not over salt, it will be
found equally good.
Time. — A piece of pickled pork weighing 2 lb., 1 J hours ; 4 lb., rather
more than 2 hours. Average Cost, 9d. per lb. for the prime parts.
1141. — TO MAKE LARD.
Method. — Melt the inner fat of the pig by putting it in a stone ]ar,
and placing this in a saucepan of boiling water, previously stripping
off the skin. Let it simmer gently, and, as it melts, pour it carefully
from the sediment. Put it into small jars or bladders for use, and keep
it in a cool place. The head or inside fat of the pig before it is melted
makes exceedingly light crust, and is particularly wholesome. It may
be preserved a length of time by salting it well, and occasionally chang-
RECIPES FOR COOKING PORK 659
ing the brine. When wanted for use, wash and wipe it, and it will
answer for making paste as well as fresh lard.
Average Cost, iod. per lb.
1142. — TO MAKE SAUSAGES. (Ft.— Saucisses.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of pork, fat and lean, without skin or gristle ;
1 lb. of lean veal, 1 lb. of beef suet, \ a lb. of breadcrumbs, the rind
of \ a lemon, some nutmeg, 6 sage leaves, 1 teaspoonful of savoury
herbs, \ a teaspoonful of marjoram.
Method. — Chop the pork, veal and suet finely together, add the bread-
crumbs, lemon-peel (which should be well minced), and a grating of
nutmeg. Wash and chop the sage-leaves very finely ; add these,
with the remaining ingredients, to the sausage-meat, and when thor-
oughly mixed, either put the meat into skins, or, when wanted for table,
form it into little cakes, which should be floured and fried.
Average Cost, for this quantity, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for about 30 moder-
ate-sized sausages.
The Hog in England. — From time immemorial the hog has been valued in England. In the
Anglo-Saxon period vast herds of swine were tended by men who watched over their safety, and
collected them under shelter at night. The flesh of the animal was the staple article of consumption
in every family, and a large portion of the wealth of the well-to-do freemen of the country consisted
of swine. Hence it was a common practice to make bequests of swine with land for their support,
and to such bequests were attached rights and privileges in connexion with the feeding of swine,
the extent of woodland to be occupied by a given number being granted in accordance with established
rules.
1143. — TO MAKE BRAWN.
Ingredients. — To a pig’s head weighing 6 lb. allow 1 } lb. of lean beef,
2 tablespoonfuls of salt, 2 teaspoonfuls of pepper, a little cayenne,
6 pounded cloves.
Method. — Cut off the cheeks and salt them, unless the head be small,
when all may be used. After carefully cleaning the head, put it on in
sufficient cold water to cover it, with the beef, and skim it just before
it boils. A head weighing 6 lb. will require boiling from 2 to 3 hours.
When sufficiently boiled to come off the bones easily, put it into a hot
pan, remove the bones, and chop the meat with a sharp knife before
the fire, together with the beef. It is necessary to do this as quickly
as possible to prevent the fat settling in it. Sprinkle in the seasoning,
which should have been previously mixed. Stir it well, and put it
quickly into a brawn-tin: a cake-tin or mould will answer the purpose,
if the meat is well pressed with weights, which must not be removed
for several hours. When quite cold, dip the tin into boiling water
for a minute or two, and the preparation will turn out and be fit for
use.
The liquor in which the head was boiled will make good pea soup,
and the fat, if skimmed off and boiled in water, and afterwards poured
into cold wafer, answers the purposes of lard.
66o
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Time. — From 2 to 3 hours. Average Cost, for a pig’s head, 5d. per lb.
The Saxon Swineherd. — The men employed in tending swine in Anglo-Saxon times were usually
thralls or slaves of the soil, who were assisted by powerful dogs, capable of singly contending with
a wolf until his master came with his spear to the rescue. Sir Walter Scott, in Ivanhoe, gives a graphic
picture of Gurth, an Anglo-Saxon swineherd ; and also of his master, a large landed proprietor, whose
chief wealth consisted of swine, the flesh of these liberally supplying his rude but hospitable table.
1144.— HOW TO LARD WITH LARDING BACON.
Ingredients. — Bacon and larding-needle.
Method. — Bacon for larding should be firm and fat, and ought to be
cured without any saltpetre, as this reddens white meats. Lay it on
a table, the rind downwards, trim off any rusty part, and cut it into
slices about £ of an inch in thickness when intended to be used for
larding cutlets, small fillets and birds, and slightly thicker when
for the purpose of inserting in a whole fillet of beef, or joints of a
similar or larger size. Lay these slices on the board and cut them
again in strips, each of the four sides of which shall be equal.
The length of lardoons varies from ij to 2 inches. They
should be inserted as evenly as possible in horizontal lines, and
the lardoons forming the second and fourth rows must intersect
those of the first and third, thus producing the diagonal lines,
and diamond-shaped spaces. The primary object of larding is to add
a fatty substance to lean, dry meats, such as the breast of chickens
and other birds, backs and thighs of hares, small, lean fillets of veal,
mutton and beef, and many other things. They, however, add greatly
to the appearance of a dish when the lardoons are arranged evenly,
and their ends cut to a uniform length by means of scissors. Larding
is a simple and easy process when the lardoons are inserted across the
grain or fibres of the meat, but may be very troublesome if an attempt
be made to lard thin fillets in a contrary direction. In inserting
the needle no more of the flesh should be taken up than is necessary
to hold the lardoon firmly in place ; and it must be pulled through with
a short, sharp jerk, a finger of the left hand being pressed on the end
of the lardoon to prevent the end of it passing through with the needle.
POULTRY
CHAPTER XXII
General Observations on Birds and on Poultry Breeding
Birds, the free tenants of land, air and ocean.
Their forms all symmetry, their motions grace ;
In plumage, delicate and beautiful ;
Thick without burthen, close as fishes’ scales,
Or loose as full-blown poppies to the breeze.
— The Pelican Island.
Birds are classified primarily on their habits of life and, structurally,
on the shape of the sternum or breastbone. The first sub-class of
the class Aves or Birds is called Ratitae, and includes all birds having
a sternum without a keel ; the birds belonging to this sub-class are
all natives of warm climates, as the ostrich, emu, cassowary, and
the remarkable apteryx of New Zealand with rudimentary wings,
and a long slender bill. The other sub-class is that of the Carinatae,
and includes all birds having a keel on the sternum, as the parrot,
pigeon, swallow, and duck.
Birds are grouped broadly in eight orders — Rapt ores, birds of prey,
such as the eagle, vulture and owl ; Insessores, perching birds, such
as the lark, swallow, sparrow, and all singing birds ; Scansores, climb-
ing birds, such as the parrot and cuckoo ; Rasores, scratching birds,
such as the common fowl, partridge and pheasant ; Cursorcs, running
birds, such as the ostrich and cassowary ; Grallatores, wading birds,
such as the crane, the snipe, the stork and the heron ; Natatores,
swimming birds, characterized by webbed feet, such as the duck, the
pelican and the gull ; and Sanrurcs, lizard-tailed birds, which include
the fossil bird Archaeopteryx, remarkable for its tail, which is longer
than its body. A more scientific classification, based partly on ex-
ternal, and partly on internal, characteristics, by Professor Huxley
and other naturalists, subdivides birds into other orders. It will
be seen that by a particular adaptation of function to environment
in the case of the birds comprised in the eight orders enumerated
above, the air, the forest, the marsh, the land and the water has each
its appropriate kind of inhabitant.
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HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
The Mechanism which enables Birds to fly is singular and instructive.
Their bodies are covered with feathers which are much lighter than
the hair with which quadrupeds are usually covered ; the feathers are
so placed as to overlap each other, like the slates or tiles on the roof
of a house ; they are also arranged from the fore-part backwards,
so as to enable the birds to cleave their way through the air more con-
veniently. Their skeleton is well adapted for aerial existence ; the
bones are hollow and extremely light in comparison with those of
terrestrial animals, the bone tissue containing a much larger propor-
tion of phosphate of lime. Moreover, the long bones contain air
instead of marrow, and are filled with air by means of special aper-
tures connected with air-cells supplied from the lungs. This greatly
facilitates their rising from the earth ; their heads are comparatively
small, their bills are wedge-shaped, and their bodies are slender, sharp
below and round above. With all these conditions, however, birds
could not fly without wings. These are the instruments which confer
the power of rapid locomotion. They are constructed in such a manner
that they are capable of great expansion when struck in a downward
direction ; if, in this action, we except the slight hollow which occurs
on the under side they almost become two planes. That the down-
ward action may be accomplished to the necessary extent, the muscles
which move the wings have been made exceedingly large ; so large,
indeed, that, in some instances, they have been estimated at not less
than a sixth of the weight of the whole body. Therefore, when a bird
is on the ground and intends to fly, it takes a leap, and immediately
stretching its wings, strikes them out with great force. By this act
these are brought into an oblique direction, being turned partly up-
wards and partly horizontally forwards. That part of the force which
has the upward tendency is neutralized by the weight of the bird,
whilst the horizontal force serves to carry it forward. The stroke being
completed it moves upon its wings which, being contracted and having
their edges turned upwards, obviate, in a great measure, the resistance
of the air. When it is sufficiently elevated it makes a second stroke
downwards, and the impulse of the air again moves it forward. These
successive strokes may be regarded as so many leaps taken in the air.
When the bird desires to direct its course to the right or left it strikes
strongly with the opposite wing, which impels it to the proper side.
The tail plays a prominent part in the movements of the bird, acting
like the rudder of a ship, except that it moves upwards and downwards
instead of sideways ; if the bird wishes to rise, it raises its tail ; it
depresses it when it desires to descend ; if it wishes to preserve a
horizontal position it keeps its tail steady. For example, a pigeon
or a crow will preserve a horizontal flight for some time without any
apparent motion of the wings ; this is accomplished by the bird having
already acquired sufficient velocity and by its meeting with but small
resistance from the atmosphere, owing to its wings being parallel to
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON BIRDS
663
the horizon. Should the bird begin to fall it can easily steer itself
upward by means of its tail until the motion it had acquired is nearly
spent, when by a few more strokes of the wings the impetus is renewed.
When alighting a bird expands its wings and tail fully against the
air, just as a ship, in tacking round, backs her sails in order that they
may meet with the maximum of resistance.
The construction of Birds shows that their eyes are peculiarly
adapted to the requirements of their environment. As a defence
against external injury from the thickets and hedges in which
they pass a great part of their life, and also as a protection against the
effects of the light when they are flying in the face of the sun,
their eyes are provided with a nictating or winking membrane,
or third eyelid, placed below and within the ordinary lids, and moved
by two little muscles on the back of the eyeball ; this lid is kept moist
by a gland which secretes a fluid, and it can be drawn at pleasure over
the whole eye like a curtain. This covering is neither opaque nor
wholly pellucid, but is somewhat transparent ; and it is by its means
that the eagle is said to be able to gaze at the sun. “In birds,” says
a writer on this subject, “ we find that the sight is much more piercing,
extensive and exact than in the other orders of animals. The eye is
much larger in proportion to the bulk of the head than in any of these.
This is a superiority conferred upon them not without a corresponding
utility ; it seems even indispensable to their safety and subsistence.
Were this organ in birds dull, or in the least degree opaque, they would
be in danger, from the rapidity of their motion, of striking against
various objects in their flight. In this case their celerity, instead of
being an advantage, would become an evil, and their flight be restrained
by the danger resulting from it. Indeed, we may consider the velocity
with which an animal moves as a sure indication of the perfection of
its vision. Among the quadrupeds, the sloth has its sight greatly
limited ; whilst the hawk, as it hovers in the air, can espy a lark sitting
on a clod, perhaps at twenty times the distance at which a man or a
dog could perceive it.”
Respiration. — Of the many peculiarities in the construction of birds,
not the least is the means by which they breathe. They do so by
the aid of air-vessels extending throughout the body and adhering to
the under surface of the bones ; these by their motion force the air
through the true lungs, which are very small and placed in the upper-
most part of the chest, and closely braced down to the back and ribs ;
the blood is oxidized in the lungs. The arterial circulation of birds
is similar to that of mammals, and consists of two auricles and two
ventricles ; of these vessels, those of the right send the venous, or
impure blood, into the lungs for purification ; those of the left send
the arterial, or pure blood, out for circulation in the body ; the blood
of birds has a higher temperature than that of mammals, averaging
103° Fahr.
664
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Birds are Distributed over every Part of the Globe, being found in the
coldest as well as the hottest regions, although some species are
restricted to particular countries, whilst others are widely dispersed.
At certain seasons of the year many of them change their abodes,
and migrate to climates better adapted to their temperaments or modes
of life, for a time, than those which they leave. Many of the birds
of Britain, directed by an unerring instinct, take their departure
from the island before the commencement of winter, and proceed to
the more congenial warmth of Africa, to return with the next spring.
Various causes are assigned by naturalists for this peculiarity, some
attributing it to deficiency of food, others to the want of a secure
asylum for the incubation and nourishment of their young, and others
again to the necessity of a certain temperature for existence ; natural
selection may be a probable explanation of the phenomenon of the
migration of birds. Their migrations are generally performed in
large companies ; in the daytime they follow a leader who is occasion-
ally changed ; during the night-time many of the tribes send forth
a continual cry, to keep themselves together, although it might be
thought that the noise which must accompany their flight would be
sufficient for that purpose.
The Food of Birds varies, as does the food of quadrupeds, according
to the character of the species. Some are altogether carnivorous ;
others, as for instance many of the web-footed tribes, subsist on fish ;
others, on insects and worms ; and others again on grain and fruit. The
extraordinary powers of the gizzard of the gramnivorous birds enable
them to comminute their food so as to prepare it for digestion. Their
digestive system consists of glands of a simple form, of a single or
double ingluvies or crop which receives the food ; of the proventri-
culus, or true digestive cavity ; of the gizzard furnished internally
with horny ridges by means of which the food is broken up, and a com-
paratively short intestine and gall bladder. The stones found in the
stomachs of birds take the place of teeth, in that they grind down the
grain and other hard substances which constitute their food. The
stones themselves, being also ground down and separated by the
powerful action of the gizzard, are mixed with the food, and doubtless
contribute greatly to the health as well as to the nourishment of the
birds.
All Birds are Oviparous. — The eggs which the various species produce
differ in shape and colour as well as in point of number. They con-
tain protoplasm, the elements of the future young, for the perfecting
of which in the incubation a bubble of air is always placed at the
large end, between the shell and the inside skin. This air bubble
gets larger by absorption through the shell and evaporation of the fluid
contents, so that a large air-bubble is the sign of a stale egg. During
incubation the shell is dissolved, and goes to form the bones of the
chick. To preserve an egg perfectly fresh, and even fit for incubation.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON BIRDS
665
for five or six months after it has been laid, stop up its pores
with a slight coating of varnish or mutton-suet. Birds, however, do
not lay eggs before they have seme place to put them ; accordingly,
they construct nests for themselves with astonishing art.
Each circumstance
How artfully contrived to favour warmth !
Here read the reason of the vaulted roof ;
How Providence compensates, ever kind.
The enormous disproportion that subsists
Between the mother and the numerous brood.
Which her small bulk must quicken into life.
In building their nests the male and female generally assist each other,
and they contrive to make the outside of their tenement bear as
great a resemblance as possible to the surrounding foliage or branches,
so that it cannot very easily be discovered even by those who are in
search of it.
Birds as Food. — There is no bird, nor any bird’s egg, that is known
to be poisonous, though they may, and often do, become unwholesome
by reason of the food that the birds eat, which at all times greatly
changes the quality of the flesh, even in birds of the same breed.
Barndoor fowls are less fat than, but far superior in flavour to the
fowls fed in close crops for the town market, and the eggs of fowls fed
on scraps and house refuse are generally strong and disagreeable. Wild
ducks and other aquatic birds are often rank and fishy flavoured.
The pigeon fattens and wastes in the course of a few hours. The
pronounced flavour of the grouse is said to be due to the heather shoots
on which it feeds.
Poultry. — Most poultry breeders arrange that poultry intended for
the table shall undergo a special preparation previously to being killed,
but it will be found that the flesh of a healthy fowl which has lived a
free out-of-door life till the last moment is both better in flavour and
more wholesome than that of one which has been kept in confinement,
and fed perhaps compulsorily into an unhealthy condition of obesity.
If well fed and killed at the right time, naturally fed birds will be quite
plump enough. Pheasants and partridges, for instance, come fairly
plump to table, even when left quite free to find their own living.
Sussex has long been famous for the quality of the poultry it sends to
market ; the Sussex, or Surrey fowls, as they are more frequently
called, invariably command the highest prices ; and deservedly so,
for they carry the largest proportion of flesh.
While the birds are being fattened they must have only soft food,
no hard corn being admissible. The best fattening foods are ground
oats, buckwheat-meal, maize-meal and whole wheat-meal. Some
breeders add suet and other fatty substances. These undoubtedly
contribute to the fat of the birds, but not so much to the flesh ; and in
fattening fowls, the true object is not to lay on fat, but to develop
666
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
plenty of good, wholesome flesh. Whatever the breed, the treatment
is the same in the fattening coop. Chickens should be confined in
them when about three months old, and be fed three times a day, the
troughs, which are hung outside the coop, being removed as soon as
they have satisfied their appetites. Food should never be left standing
by them, and in the early fattening stages it is a good plan to miss a
meal at the first indication of failing appetite. The ground oats,
which constitute their principal food, are nearly always mixed with
separated milk, and made so moist that the birds cannot lift up a lump
with their beaks. It is necessary that they should be kept in semi-
darkness ; and when their appetites fail, as they usually do after a
fortnight’s restraint, the cramming machine has to be utilized, the same
food being still given them, with the addition of suet or rough fat.
The coops or pens employed by the poultry feeders are made of laths,
stand raised from the ground, and are usually placed in sheds. They
who have no fattening pens should confine the fowls in a small run,
feed them three times a day on ground oats, barley-meal, and maize-
meal mixed with potatoes. When a certain stage is reached the birds
begin to go back, and should be killed at once, first letting them fast
twenty-four hours to empty the crop. The longest period that is
advisable for fattening a fowl is three weeks.
An easy way to kill a fowl is to hang it up by the legs, and with a sharp
knife pierce the roof of the mouth until the point touches the brain.
Death is instantaneous, and the fowl should be plucked whilst warm,
and then placed in a V-shaped trough, back uppermost, a board being
laid on the top with a heavy weight upon it, to ensure the fowl being
a good shape when cold.
Fattening Turkeys for the Table. — Turkeys grow very slowly ; there-
fore, the earlier they are hatched the better when it is necessary that
they should attain their full growth by Christmas. They need plenty
of liberty and good feeding from the day of their hatching until they
come to the fattening shed. A roomy shed, open to the south, should
be selected for the purpose, for these birds thrive best when kept
warm and dry. The shed should be supplied with low perches, kept
scrupulously clean, and provided with means for excluding the light.
They are usually fed twice a day ; in the morning on a mixture of meals,
such as ground oats, barley-meal, sharps or pollard, and a little maize,
moistened with separated milk. The afternoon meal sometimes con-
sists of whole corn, previously soaked in hot water and given to them
whilst warm, or it may be simply a repetition of the morning’s meal.
The addition of fat helps to make the flesh of the birds white, and a
certain amount of flint grit is necessary to their well-being. They
should not be permitted to see fowls at liberty while under restraint
themselves, otherwise they are apt to fret and refuse their food.
Fattening Ducks for the Table. — The secret of success in fattening ducks
consists in starting the process almost as soon as they are hatched, in
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON BIRDS
66 7
order to have them ready before their first moult, which takes place
when they are about ten weeks old. The Aylesbury “ duckers,” as the
duck fatteners are called, get their ducklings to scale four pounds and
over when eight or nine weeks old. Ducklings should be bedded on straw
in an airy shed, kept clean and only let out to feed, when they should
have all they will eat and drink, and then be driven back to the shed.
The food should be mixed fairly moist, and consist of mixed meals,
ground oats, biscuit-meal, barley-meal, sharps or well-boiled rice, to which
a little fat is added. They should not be permitted to swim, and should
be sheltered from the sun. As soon as the adult quill- feathers appear
on their wings, they go back in condition and are troublesome to pluck ;
therefore, unless killed before that stage is reached, they should be
turned out, and kept until about three or four months old. Flint grit
should be put in their water-trough while they are fattening.
Fattening Geese for the Table. — Goslings are generally allowed their
liberty during the summer, and have little food except the grass they
gather. It is not advisable to shut them up when the time comes to
fatten them ; they should simply be well fed morning and evening,
and permitted to range at liberty and eat all the grass possible, for
grass forms a considerable portion of their food. A mixture of boiled
rice, sharps and various meals should be given them in the morning,
and maize or wheat at night, the latter being put in the water-trough.
They should be allowed all the food they will eat for three or four weeks
before killing. If shut up they can be made fatter ; but fat geese are
not desirable, for they lose too much weight in cooking.
To Choose Poultry. — When fresh, the eyes should be clear and not
sunken, the feet limp and pliable, stiff dry feet being a sure indication
that the bird has not been recently killed ; and if the bird is plucked
there should be no discoloration of the skin.
Fowls, when young, should have smooth legs and feet ; the cock
bird is young when it has smooth legs and short spurs ; hens when
young have smooth legs. The bones of all young birds are soft and
gelatinous, and they always harden with age ; the end of the breast-
bone when young is soft and pliable ; when otherwise, it may be
accepted as sure evidence of the advanced age of the bird. The signs
of an old fowl are its stiff, horny-looking feet, long spurs, dark-coloured
and hairy thighs, stiff beak and bones. Game fowls, and those with
darlc-coloured legs, are better for roasting than for boiling. White
fowls, such as Dorkings, are more suitable for boiling.
Turkeys. — Turkeys, when young, have short spurs and smooth black
legs-; when the legs are pale, or reddish and rough, and the spurs long,
these marks may be taken as sure indications of age. When freshly killed
the eyes should be full and bright. Norfolk turkeys are considered
the best ; the cock bird is usually selected for roasting, and the hen
for boiling.
Geese and ducks when young have yellow feet and bills ; as they
668
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
grow old they become darker and reddish in colour. The feet of freshly
killed geese and ducks are moist and soft, but, like those of fowls and
turkeys, they become dry and stiff when they have been killed some
time.
RECIPES FOR COOKING
POULTRY.
CHAPTER XXIII
1 145. — CANNELONS OF CHICKEN. (Fr.— Cannelons
de Volaille.)
Ingredients. — Chicken croquette mixture, No. 115. rough puff paste,
an egg/ breadcrumbs, frying-fat.
Method. — Roll out the paste as thinly as possible, and cut it into
1 1 or 1+ inch squares. Place a little chicken mixture in the centre
of each square, and roll up rather tightly. Coat them carefully with
egg and breadcrumbs, fry in hot fat until lightly-browned, then drain
well, and serve garnished with crisply fried parsley.
Time. — To fry, 5 minutes. Average Cost, 2d. to 3d. each. Allow 2
or 3 to each person. Seasonable at any time.
1146. — CANVASBACK, BOILED.
See “ American Cookery.”
1147. — CANVASBACK, ROASTED.
See “ American Cookery.”
1148. — CAPONS AND POULARDES, TO DRESS.
The male fowl, the capon, and the female bird, the poularde, are
both, by treatment while young, made incapable of generating, with
the result that their size is increased, and they become fatter than
ordinary fowls. The flavour of the poularde is considered more
delicate than that of the capon, but the latter is the larger bird. They
may be boiled, braised, roasted, or otherwise dressed, according to the
directions given for cooking chickens and fowls. Care, of course,
must be taken that the methods, accessories, and garnishes used are
equal to the birds in point of excellence.
670 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1149. — CHICKEN A LA MARENGO. (Fr — Poulet
saute a. la Marengo.)
Ingredients. — 1 chicken, J of a pint of salad-oil, 1 pint of Espagnole
sauce ( see Sauces, No. 244), the pulp of 2 ripe tomatoes, a glass of
sherry, 1 dozen preserved mushrooms, 6 stoned olives, 1 truffle, salt and
pepper, fleurons for garnish.
Method. — Divide the chicken into neat pieces, and fry them in salad-
oil until nicely browned, then drain well and pour away the oil. Heat up
the Espagnole sauce with the tomato pulp, replace the chicken in the
stewpan, add the sherry, mushrooms and olives whole, the truffle cut
into large pieces, and simmer gently for three quarters of an hour,
or until the chicken is tender. When done, pile in the centre of a hot
dish, strain the sauce over, and garnish with the mushrooms, olives
and truffle. Place a few fleurons, i.e., half-moon or crescent-shaped
pieces of puff pastry, or croutes of fried bread, round the dish.
Time. — About ij hours. Average Cost, 5s. 6d. Sufficient for 3 or 4
persons.
Fowls. — The name sometimes applied to birds of large size, but more usually restricted to those
of the genus Gallus, of which the domestic fowl is a familiar example. Such birds form a typical
group of Rasores, or “ scratchers.” They are furnished with strong beaks and claws, an^the heads
of the males are distinguished by a comb, brightly coloured and frequently erectile, their legs are
provided with spurs used in conflict, the cock being a very pugnacious bird, and resenting the pre-
sence of a rival. The plumage of the male bird is much more brilliant than that of the female, except
in the case of the pure white breeds, the long feathers of the cock’s tail, with their graceful curve,
adding beauty to the appearance of the bird. The fowl is interesting from its susceptibility to
variation under domestication. Its original habitat appears to have been Eastern Asia and
the Malayan Archipelago. The Bankiva Jungle Fowl, a native of Java, is supposed to have
been the original stock from which the domesticated varieties have been derived. Among the
numerous breeds or varieties are the Common or Barndoor fowl, a bird of no special breed, but repre-
senting interbreeding between various varieties : the Cochin-China fowl, the Polish fowl, the Spanish
fowl, the Hamburg, the Dorking, the Bantam and the Game fowl. The term chicken is applied
to the young female bird, from the period it is hatched until it is four months old ; after that age
until they begin to lay they are called pullets, and subsequently hens.
1150. — CHICKEN, BOILED, TURKISH STYLE.
(FV. — Poulet Bouilli a la Turque.)
Ingredients. — 1 chicken or fowl, \ a lb. of boiled rice, \ a pint of
tomato sauce (see Sauces No. 281), 1 oz. of butter, 1 teaspoonful of
cornflour, 1 finely-chopped shallot, salt and pepper.
Method. — Boil the chicken and cut it into neat joints. Melt the
butter, fry the shallot slightly, add the tomato sauce, and when thor-
oughly hot put in the pieces of chicken, and simmer very gently for
25 minutes. A few minutes before serving add the cornflour previ-
ously blended with a little cold water. Arrange the chicken neatly
in a border of boiled rice, strain the sauce over, and serve.
Time. — From ij to i-|- hours. Average Cost, 3s. 6d. to 4s. Sufficient
for 5 or 6 persons.
1151. — CHICKEN, BOMBS OF. (Fr.— -Petites Bombes
de Volaille.)
Ingredients. — a lb. of raw chicken, r oz. of flour, \ an oz. of butter,
RECIPES FOR COOKING POULTRY
671
a gill of water, 3 whites of eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, chopped
parsley, salt and pepper, \ a pint of Bechamel sauce ( see Sauces, No.
178).
Method. — Pass the chicken 2 or 3 times through a mincing machine,
or chop it finely. Melt the butter in a small stewpan, stir in the flour,
add the water, boil well, then turn the panada or culinary paste on to
a plate to cool. Pound the chicken in a mortar until smooth, adding
the panada gradually, and each white of egg separately. Season to
taste, and rub through a fine wire sieve. Have ready the bomb moulds
thickly coated with clarified butter, and sprinkle their entire surface
with chopped parsley. Whip the cream slightly, stir it lightly into the
chicken puree, and pipe the mixture into the moulds. Place them in a
stew-pan containing boiling water to about half their depth, cover
with a buttered paper, put on the lid, and cook gently for 20 or 25
minutes. Arrange them in 2 rows on a hot dish, pour the hot sauce
j'ound, and serve.
Time.— About 20 minutes, to cook the bombs. Average Cost, 3s. 6d.
to 4s. Sufficient for 10 or 12 bombs, according to size.
1152.— CHICKEN, BOMBS OF (Cold). (Fr.— Petites
Bombes de Volaille a la Gelee.)
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of cooked chicken, 2 tablespoonfuls of white
sauce, 1 tablespoonful of sherry, £ a gill of thick cream, \ a pint of aspic
jelly, 4 sheets of gelatine, dressed salad. For coating the moulds :
aspic jelly, cream, small green peas, truffle, chili, or other decoration.
Method. — Coat the moulds thinly with aspic jelly, decorate them
tastefully with truffle, or whatever is preferred, set with aspic jelly,
then line with aspic cream, made by combining cold liquid aspic jelly
and cream in equal quantities. Chop the chicken finely, pound in a
mortar until smooth, adding seasoning, white sauce, and sherry by
degrees. Rub through a fine wire sieve, then add the nearly cold
aspic jelly (in which the gelatine must have been previously dissolved),
and the cream stiffly whipped, mix all lightly but thoroughly together,
and turn into the moulds. When cold serve on a bed of dressed salad,
and garnish with aspic j ellyr, cucumber, tufts of endive, or other suitable
garnish.
Average Cost. — 3s. to 3s. 6d., exclusive of the chicken. Sufficient for
8 or 10 small moulds.
The Dorking derives its name from the town of that name in Surrey, where the breed exists in
large numbers and in great perfection. The colour of the true Dorking is pure white ; the bird is
long in the body and short in the legs. A characteristic feature of the Dorking is its possession
of five claws on each foot ; the extra claw is not, however, sufficiently long to encumber the foot,
or cause the fowl to “ drag ” its nest. It has been a subject of dispute from what particular breed
the Dorking is derived, some contending that the Poland fowl is the progenitor of the Dorking, basing
the assertion on the resemblance of the shape of the latter to the former, and the fact that the
Poland cock, although sombre in hue, will occasionally beget thorough white stock from Dorking
hens.
672 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1153. — CHICKEN, BOUDINS OF. (JFr.— Boudins de
Volaille a la Richelieu.)
Ingredients. — For the farce, or stuffing : \ a lb. of raw chicken, 1 oz.
of flour, 1 oz. of butter, \ a gill of stock (made from chicken bones),
1 egg, salt and pepper, nutmeg. For the salpicon, or mince of game
or poultry : 1 sweetbread, or a few lambs’ throat breads, 1 slice of
tongue, 6 preserved mushrooms, 1 large truffle, 3 or 4 tablespoonfuls
of white sauce, egg, breadcrumbs, frying-fat.
Method. — Melt the butter in a small stewpan, stir in the flour, add the
stock, boil well, then turn the panada, or culinary paste, on a plate to cool.
Chop the chicken meat finely, or pass it through a mincing machine,
pound it in the mortar until smooth, adding the panada and egg grad-
ually, then season to taste, and rub through a fine wire sieve. Blanch
and cook the sweetbread in stock, cut it and the tongue, mushrooms
and truffle into small dice, moisten with the white sauce, and season
well. Have ready 8 or 10 boudin or quenelle moulds well coated with
clarified butter, line them evenly and rather thickly with the chicken
farce, fill with the salpicon, cover with farce, and smooth the surface
with a hot, wet knife. Place them in a saute-pan, surround them to half
their depth with boiling water, cover with a buttered paper, and cook
in a moderate oven from 25 to 30 minutes. Unmould, and, when cool,
coat carefully with egg and breadcrumbs, and fry until golden-brown
in hot fat. Drain well, arrange neatly on a folded serviette or dish-
paper, and serve with hot ravigote or other suitable sauce.
Time. — To cook, from 25 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, 4s. 6d. to 5s.
Sufficient for 8 or 10 boudins.
1154. — CHICKEN, CASSEROLE OF. (Fr.— Poulet en
Casserole.)
Ingredients. — 1 chicken, 4 to 6 oz. of streaky bacon, 2 ozs. of but-
ter, 1 shallot, finely-chopped, 2 tablespoonfuls of coarsely-chopped
mushrooms, preferably fresh ones, stock, 1 oz. of flour, salt and
pepper.
Method. — Divide the chicken into neat joints. Heat 1 oz. of butter
in a casserole just large enough to hold the chicken, and fry in it the
bacon- cut into strips. Then put in the chicken, add the shallot
and mushrooms, cover, and cook slowly. Turn the pieces over,
and when both sides are nicely browned, add stock to barely cover,
and season to taste. Knead the flour and the remaining oz. of butter
together, and add the mixture in small pieces, about 15 minutes before
serving. The chicken should lie served in the casserole, but it may, if
preferred, be turned on to a hot dish.
Time. — From 1^ to ij hours. Average Cost, 3s. to 4s. Sufficient for
4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.
ENTREES,
i. Mould of Chicken. 2. Quenelles of Quail (Cold). 3. Braized Fillets of
Duckling in Paste Border.
RECIPES FOR COOKING POULTRY 673
1155.— CHICKEN CREAM. (Fr.— Creme de Volaille.)
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of raw chicken, free from bone and skin, -} of
a pint of thick Bechamel sauce ( see Sauces No. 178), } of a pint of
double cream, 1 egg, salt and pepper, truffles.
Method. — Chop the chicken meat finely, pound it in a mortar until
smooth, adding the egg and white sauce gradually, and pass the in-
gredients through a wire sieve. Whip the cream stiffly, stir it lightly
in, and season to taste. Turn the mixture into 1 large or 6 or 7 very
small buttered moulds and steam gently until firm. Dish up and
sauce over. Serve garnished with truffles, and send a boat of
Bechamel or other suitable sauce to table separately.
Time. — To steam in 1 mould, about 30 minutes; in small moulds,
about 25 minutes. Average Cost, 3s. to 3s. 6d. Sufficient for 8 or 9
persons. Seasonable at any time.
Pencilled Hamburg. — This variety of the Hamburg fowl is of two colours, golden and silver
and is very minutely marked. The hens of both these varieties have the body pencilled across with
several bars of black — hence the name — and the hackle in both sexes of good breed is perfectly free
from dark marks. The cocks do not exhibit the pencillings, but are white and brown respectively
in the golden or silver birds. The Pencilled Hamburgs are compact in form, and sprightly and grace-
ful in their attitudes. The hens lay abundantly, but are not sitters. They are imported in large
numbers from Holland, and are also bred in England, the latter being much superior in size.
These birds are known in various parts of the country as “ Chitteprats," “ Creoles " or “ Corals,"
“ Bolton bays and greys," and in some parts of Yorkshire are called “ Corsican fowls."
1156.— CHICKEN, CREPINETTES OF. (Fr.— Crepin-
ettes de Volaille.)
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of cooked chicken, 2 oz. cooked ham, 4 button
mushrooms, 1 truffle, 1 yolk of egg, 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of thick
white sauce, salt and pepper, pig’s caul, £ a pint of brown sauce ( see
Sauces).
Method. — Cut the chicken, ham, mushrooms, and truffle into shreds
about 1 inch in length, add the yolk of egg to the hot sauce, season to
taste, put in the shredded ingredients, stir by the side of the fire for
a few minutes, then put aside until cold (this is called the Salpicon).
Wash the caul in salt and water, dry it, and cut it into 4-inch squares.
Enfold a dessertspoonful of the mixture in each piece of caul, form into
a round shape, and either bake them in the oven for 6 minutes, and
brush them over with warm glaze, or coat them with egg and bread
crumbs, and fry in hot fat. Serve on a bed of spinach or puree of green
peas, and pour the sauce round.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, is. 9d. to 2s. Sufficient for
about 4 or 5 persons.
The Bantam. — This small variety o( the game fowl is noted for its elegant appearance, animation,
plumage and spirited courage, which, despite its diminutive size, it displays to a remarkable degree,
especially when defending its progeny. Like the game bird, its original habitat is the East, and
it is supposed to have derived its name from Bantam, in Java. The black and nankeen varieties
are considered to be the best.
Z
674 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1157. — CHICKEN, CROQUETTES OF. (Fr.— Cro-
quettes de Volaille.)
Ingredients. — 6 to 8 ozs. of cold chicken or fowl (boned), 2 ozs. of
cooked ham or tongue, \ of a pint of stock, 1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of flour,
1 tablespoonful of cream, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, 6 button mush-
rooms, 1 truffle, salt and pepper, egg, breadcrumbs, frying-fat.
Method. — Chop the chicken and ham or tongue finely, cut the mush-
rooms and truffle into small pieces. Melt the butter, fry the flour
without browning, add the stock, and cook well. Stir in the chicken,
ham or tongue, cream, lemon-juice, mushrooms and truffle, season
with salt and pepper, and turn on to a plate to cool. Make into cork-
shaped croquettes, coat carefully with egg and breadcrumbs, and fry
until lightly browned in hot fat.
Time.— 1 hour. Average Cost, is. 6d. to 2s. Sufficient for about 6
persons.
1158. — CHICKEN KROMESKIS. (Fr. Cromes Quis
de Volaille.)
Ingredients. — Make a salpicon as directed in the preceding recipe, as
many small very thin slices of bacon as there are cork-shaped pieces
of the mixture. For the batter : 2 tablespoonfuls of milk, 3 table-
spoonfuls of flour, 1 tablespoonful of salad-oil or oiled butter, 1 egg,
salt, frying-fat.
Method. — Mix the above ingredients into a smooth batter, and add
to it 1 saltspoonful of salt.
Wrap each piece of the chicken mixture in a slice of bacon, dip into
a light batter prepared from the above named ingredients, and fry in
a deep pan of hot fat. Drain, and serve garnished with parsley.
Time. — 1 hour. Probable Cost, is. 9d., to 2s. Sufficient for about
6 persons.
1159. — CHICKEN, CUTLETS OF. (Fr.— Cotelettes de
Volaille.)
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of cold chicken, £ of a pint of white sauce, 1 oz.
of butter, \ an oz. of flour, the yolks of 2 eggs, £ a shallot finely-chopped,
salt and pepper, nutmeg, egg, breadcrumbs, frying-fat.
Method. — Chop the chicken finely. Fry the shallot and flour in the
butter without browning, add the stock, and boil well. Put in the
chicken, add nutmeg, salt and pepper to taste, stir over the fire until
thoroughly hot, then add the yolks of eggs, and cook the ingredients
for 2 or 3 minutes longer. Cool the mixture ; when firm, shape into
cutlets, egg and crumb them, and fry in deep fat. Drain well, arrange
them in a close circle on a dish paper, garnish with fried parsley, and
RECIPES FOR COOKING POULTRY b75
serve hot, 2 to 3 oz. of lean ham, finely chopped, may be added to
the chicken if liked.
Time. — 1 hour. Average Cost, 2s. pd. Sufficient for about 7 persons.
1160.— CHICKEN, ESCALOPES OF. {Ft.— Escalopes
de Poulet.)
Ingredients. — The legs of a large uncooked chicken, f a lb. of lean veal,
f of a lb. of bacon (a corresponding amount of sausage-meat may be
substituted for the veal and bacon), 6 mushrooms, 1 truffle, 2 yolks of
eggs, 1 pint of stock, 3 ozs. of butter, if ozs. of flour, 1 tablespoonful
of sherry, a few drops of lemon-juice, 1 onion, 1 carrot, f a small
turnip, 1 strip of celery, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf),
salt and pepper, spinach puree.
Method. — When veal and bacon are used, chop and pound them
smoothly, then rub through a fine sieve. Add to this puree of meat
the mushrooms and truffle cut into dice, season well with salt and
pepper, and bind with the 2 yolks of eggs. Bone the legs, stuff with
the prepared farce or stuffing, shaping them as much like a roll as
possible. Put if ozs. of butter and the sliced vegetables into a stew-
pan, lay the chicken legs on the top, cover, and fry gently for 20 minutes.
Add stock to f the depth of the vegetables, place a buttered paper
over the chicken legs, put on the lid, and cook gently for 1 hour. Mean-
while, melt the remaining butter, stir in the flour, and cook over the
fire until a brown roux, or thickening, is formed. When the chicken
legs are sufficiently cooked, remove them and keep them hot ; strain
the stock on to the brown roux, stir until boiling, simmer for 20 minutes,
then add the sherry and lemon-juice, season to taste, and keep hot until
required. Cut the chicken legs into f-inch slices, arrange them slightly
overlapping each other on the bed of spinach, strain the sauce round,
and serve.
Time. — About if hours. Average Cost, 3s. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
1 161.— CHICKEN FOR INVALIDS.
See “Chicken, Ramakins of,” No. 1186. “Chicken, Small Souffle
of,” No. 1193. “Chicken, Souffle of,” No. 1194. “Chicken Panada,”
No. ii/8; also Chapter on “ Invalid Cookery.”
The Feather-legged Bantam. — Since the Bantam was introduced into Europe it has differ-
entiated into several varieties, all more or less elegant, and some remarkable for their beauty. The
Bantam should be of small size, but vigorous and brisk, exhibiting in its movements stateliness and
grace. The most popular variety is remarkable for the tarsi or beams of the legs, which
are plumed to the toes with stiff long feathers, brushing the ground. This variety is rare in its
pure state. Another variety is red with a black breast and single dentated comb, with smooth
tarsi and of a dusky colour. When this variety is pure it is a game fowl in miniature, both as regards
courage and spirit, and is as handsome as it is spirited. There is also a pure white breed, which
possesses the same characteristics.
676 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1162. — CHICKEN FORCEMEAT. (Fr.— Farce de
Volaille.)
Ingredients. — a lb. of raw chicken, free from bone, ioz. of flour,
1 oz. of butter, 1 egg, £ a gill of chicken stock, salt and pepper, nutmeg.
Method. — Melt the butter, stir in the flour, add the stock, boil well
and let the panada or culinary paste cool slightly. Cut up and pound
the chicken meat in the mortar until smooth, adding the egg, and the
panada by degrees. Season to taste, rub through a fine wire or hair
sieve, and use for quenelles, cutlets, boudins, bombes, timbales, etc.
Before moulding or shaping the farce, its constituency should be
tested, and if found too firm a little cream may be added.
1163. — CHICKEN FRIED IN BATTER. (Fr — Frican-
delles de Volaille.)
Ingredients. — Chicken mixture as for croquettes of chicken, No. 1157,
egg, breadcrumbs, frying-fat. For the batter : 4 ozs. of flour, \ a pint
of milk, 1 egg, 1 saltspoonful of salt.
Method. — Make the chicken mixture as directed. Mix the flour,
milk, egg and salt into a smooth batter, and prepare some very thin
pancakes. As each one is fried, spread the meat preparation over
one side and roll up tightly. When cold, cut across into 2 or 3 pieces,
about inches in length, coat with egg and breadcrumbs, and fry in
deep fat. Drain well, and serve garnished with fried parsley.
Time. — 1 hour. Average Cost, from is. 6d. to 2s. Sufficient for 7 or
8 persons.
1164. — CHICKEN, FRICASSEED. (Fr. — Fricassee de
, Volaille.)
Ingredients.— 1 boiled chicken, 1 pint of Bechamel sauce ( see Sauces),
\ a gill of cream, the yolks of 2 eggs, the juice of 1 lemon, salt and
pepper.
Method. — Cut the chicken before it is quite cold into neat joints.
Make the sauce as directed, put in the pieces of chicken, let them
remain until thoroughly hot. Add the yolks and cream previously
blended, and stir by the side of the fire until the sauce thickens,
without boiling. Season to taste, add the lemon-juice, arrange
neatly on a hot dish, and strain the sauce over. The dish may be
garnished with truffle or cooked green peas, and the fricassee served
in a border of mashed potato if desired.
Time. — About £ of an hour, after the chicken is boiled. Average Cost,
3s. 6d. to 4s. 6d. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
RECIPES FOR COOKING POULTRY 677
1165.— CHICKEN, FRITOT OF. (JFr.— Fritot de
Poulet).
Ingredients. — Cold chicken, either roast or boiled. For the marinade
or liquor : 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-
juice, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped onion, 1 teaspoonful of finely-
chopped parsley, \ a teaspoonful of powdered mixed herbs, \ of a tea-
spoonful of salt, -J- of a teaspoonful of pepper. For the batter : 4 ozs.
of flour, -j- of a pint of tepid water, 1 tablespoonful of salad-oil, the
whites of 2 eggs, 1 saltspoonful of salt, frving-fat.
Method. — Cut the chicken into small joints, remove the skin, trim
the pieces neatly, place them in a deep dish, pour over the marinade,
and let them remain in it for 1 J hours, turning them frequently. Mix
the flour, salt, water, and salad-oil into a smooth batter, let it stand
for 1 hour, then stir in lightly the stiffly-whisked whites of eggs. Drain
the pieces of chicken well, dip them into the batter, and fry until nicely
browned in hot fat. Drain from the fat, arrange neatly on a dish-
paper, garnish with crisply-fried parsley, and serve. Tartare or tomato
sauce should be served separately in a sauceboat.
Time. — Altogether, 2 hours. Average Cost, 3s. 6d. to 4s. 6d., when
a large chicken is used. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Sir John Sebright’s Bantams. — This celebrated breed, which Sir John Sebright, after many
years of careful experiment, brought to perfection, is considered to be the best and most beautiful
of Bantam fowls. The bird is very small, with unfeathered legs, and a rose-comb and short hackles.
Its plumage is gold or spangled, each feather being of a golden-orange or a silver-white colour, with
a glossy jet-black margin. The tail of the male is folded like that of the hen, with the sickle feathers
shortened nearly or quite straight, and broader than in other varieties of the Bantam. It possesses
high courage and has a singularly proud, erect and gallant carriage, throwing back the head until
it nearly touches the two upper feathers of the tail. Half-bred birds of this kind are not uncommon,
but the pure breed is highly valued.
1166.— CHICKEN GRILLED WITH MUSHROOM
SAUCE. (Fr. — Poulet Grille aux Cham-
pignons.)
Ingredients. — 1 chicken, \ lb. lean raw ham, \ a pint of Espagnole
sauce ( see Sauces, No. 244), 2 dozen button mushrooms, salad-oil or
oiled butter, a crouton of fried bread.
Method. — Divide the chicken into pieces convenient for serving.
Make the sauce as directed, add to it the mushrooms, season to taste,
and keep hot until required. Cut the crouton to fit the dish, and fry
it until lightly browned in hot fat. Cut the ham into short pieces
and fry it. Brush the pieces of chicken over with salad-oil or oiled
butter, and grill them over or in front of a clear fire. Arrange neatly
on the crouton, strain the sauce round, and garnish with groups of mush-
rooms and ham.
Time. — To grill the chicken, about 15 minutes. Average Cost, 5s.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
678 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1167. — CHICKEN GUMBO. (See American Cookery.)
1168. — CHICKEN ITALIAN. (Fr.-Poulet a l’ltalienne.)
See “Chicken with Italian Sauce,” No. 1204.
1169. — CHICKEN JELLY. (Fr.— Gelee de Volaille.)
Ingredients. — 1 chicken or fowl, salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the chicken into small pieces and put them into a
stewing-jar with about 1 pint of water and a little salt and pepper, and
cook it in a moderately cool oven for 2 hours. Cut the flesh off the
breast, wings and legs in thin slices, replace the bones and trimmings in
the stew-jar, and cook as rapidly as possible on the stove for \ an hour.
Meanwhile arrange the slices of chicken in a mould or piedish, leaving
a space at the sides, and as much space as possible between the layers,
to be afterwards filled with stock. When the stock is ready, strain
it, season to taste, let it cool slightly, and pour it over the chicken.
Turn out when cold, and serve as a breakfast or luncheon dish.
Time. — To cook, about 2\ hours. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. to 3s. 6d.
Sufficient for 1 mould of medium size. Seasonable at any time.
The Poland. — This bird, a native of Holland, is a great favourite with fowl-keepers, from the
great number of eggs which the birds of this variety produce, a circumstance which has caused
Polands in many parts to be known as the “ everlasting layers,” From observation of the number
of eggs produced by this prolific fowl, it was found that in one year five hens laid no less than 503
eggs, the average weight of each egg was r oz, and 3 drachms, the total weight of the whole, exclu-
sive of the shells, amounting to 50^ lb. The common black breed is plain in appearance, and has
a bushy crown of white feathers j other varieties, as the “ silver-spangled ” and the “ gold-
spangled,” are handsome birds. The Poland is easily fattened, and its flesh is considered to be
more juicy and of a richer flavour than many other fowls.
1170. — CHICKEN KLOPPS.
Sec “ Indian Cookery.”
1 1 7 1. — CHICKEN LEGS AS CUTLETS. (Fr— Cuisses
de Volaille en Cotelettes.)
Ingredients. — Chickens’ legs, slices of bacon, stock, Espagnole sauce
(see “ Sauces,” No. 244), 2 onions sliced, 2 carrots sliced, 1 small tur-
nip sliced, 8 peppercorns, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf),
salt and pepper.
Method. — Remove the thigh bones, but leave the drumstick, season
the legs with salt and pepper, and fold the skin under. Shape as
much like a cutlet as possible, enfold each leg in a piece of muslin,
and fasten securely. Put the vegetables, bouquet-garni and pepper-
corns into a stewpan, nearly cover them with stock, and lay the legs
on the top. Cover each one with a slice of bacon, place a greased paper
over the whole, put on a close-fitting lid, and cook gently for about
1 hour. Remove the muslin and serve with the sauce poured over, or
they may be glazed and have the sauce poured round. If preferred,.
RECIPES FOR COOKING POULTRY 679
the legs may be enclosed in a pig’s caul, instead of muslin, in which
case they should be browned in a hot oven, and glazed before serving.
Time. — To braise, from 1 to ij hours. Average Cost, accessories to 4
chicken legs, about is. Allow 1 leg to each person. Seasonable at any time.
1172. — CHICKEN LEGS, STUFFED. (Fr — Cuisses
de Volaille Farcies.)
Ingredients.— The legs of a cold fowl, 1 tablespoonful of sweet oil, 2
tablespoonfuls of breadcrumbs, \ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped
sweet herbs, \ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped lemon rind, 2 slices of
onion (blanched and chopped), 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley,
x egg, 4 slices of streaky bacon, 2 slices of toasted buttered bread,
salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut each leg into 2 joints, and saw off the drumsticks,
place them on a plate, season with pepper and salt, and moisten with
a little sweet oil. Put the breadcrumbs, lemon rind, sweet herbs,
onion and parsley in a basin, mix well, moisten with the yolk of
an egg and season with a pinch of salt and a tiny pinch of cayenne.
Drain the chicken’s legs, cover each with the farce or stuffing
above prepared, then wrap up in a slice of bacon, tie with twine, or
skewer them securely. Place them on a greased baking-tin or saute-
pan, and cook in the oven for about 20 minutes. Cut each slice of
toasted bread in two, trim neatly, dress the chicken’s legs on these,
dish up, garnish with a few sprigs of curly parsley, and serve hot.
Time. — To cook, about 20 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. to is. 9d.
Sufficient for 2 or 3 persons.
The Serai Ta-ook, or Fowls of the Sultan. — This fowl, which was first introduced into Eng-
land in 1854 from Constantinople, takes its name from the Turkish sarai, " sultan's palace,” and
ta-ook, “ fowl.” They are lively brisk birds, excellent layers, but not good sitters, and their eggs
are large and white in colour. In size they resemble the English Poland bird, and have a white
and flowing plumage, a full-sized compact Poland tuft on the head, are muffled, have a full-flowing
tail, short well-feathered legs, and 5 toes on each foot. Their comb is peculiar, consisting only of
two little points, and their wattles are small. The colour of the bird is pure white.
1173. — CHICKEN LIVER PATTIES. (Fr.— Pates de
Foie de Volaille.)
Ingredients. — Chicken livers, butter, brown sauce {see “ Sauces,”
No. 233), rough puff paste, salt and pepper.
Method. — Remove the gall and wash and dry the livers, cut them
into rather small pieces, and toss them in hot butter over the fire for
about 5 minutes. Have ready some patty-pans lined with thinly rolled
out paste, fill them with liver, season highly with salt and pepper,
and add a little brown sauce. Cover with paste, brush over with beaten
egg, and bake in a moderately-hot oven for about 20 minutes, and
serve either hot or cold.
Time. — To bake, about 20 minutes. Average Cost, 2d. each. Allow
1 to each person. Seasonable at any time.
68o
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1174. — CHICKEN LIVERS ON TOAST.
See Chapter on “ Savouries.”
1175. — CHICKEN, MAYONNAISE OF. (Fr — Mayon-
naise de Volaille.)
Ingredients. — 1 cold boiled chicken or fowl, J of a pint of Mayonnaise
sauce (see Sauces, No. 201), J of a pint of aspic jelly, dressed salad.
Method. — Cut up the chicken into small joints, remove all the skin
and ends of bones, and shape the pieces as neatly as possible. Dissolve
the aspic jelly; when cool enough, add it to the Mayonnaise sauce and
mask the chicken. To facilitate the masking process place the pieces
of chicken on a wire tray and pour over the sauce carefully by means
of a tablespoon. When the sauce is set, decorate tastefully with
truffle and chervil, and mask with a thin layer of liquid Aspic. Arrange
neatly on a dish on a bed of dressed salad, and garnish the side of the
dish with sprigs of endive, slices of cucumber and blocks of aspic jelly.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 3s. 9d. to 5s. Sufficient for
5 or 6 persons.
1176. — CHICKEN, MINCE OF, BREADED.
(Fr. — Poulet au Gratin.)
Ingredients.— b a lb. of coarsely-chopped cooked chicken, free from
bone, 2 tablespoonfuls of finely-chopped cooked ham, \ a pint of
Bechamel sauce, ( see Sauces, No. 178) breadcrumbs, butter, nutmeg,
salt and pepper.
Method. — Mix the chicken and ham together, stir in the sau'ce, which
should thoroughly moisten the whole, otherwise more sauce must be
added. Season to taste, add a pinch of nutmeg, and turn the mixture
into 6 or 8 well-buttered scallop shells. Cover lightly with breadcrumbs,
add 2 or 3 small pieces of butter, bake in a moderately-hot oven until
nicely browned, then serve.
Time. — To bake, from 6 to 8 minutes. Average Cost, 8d., exclusive of
the chicken. Seasonable at any time.
Various Modes of Fattening Fowls. — It is considered by some fowl-keepers that the flesh of a
healthy well-fed fowl, which has lived a free, out-of-door life, is both in flavour and wholesomeness
preferable to a bird kept in confinement and compulsorily fed. If, however, special fattening is
resorted to, the birds should be confined in a clean warm pen or run, and fed three or four times
a day on as much soft food as they will eat, care being taken to feed them very early in the
morning and as late as possible at night. When specially fattened for the market the fowls are kept
in the dark which encourages them to rest — an essential to the laying on of flesh. The foods chiefly
used for fattening are ground oats, whole wheat-meal, maize-meal and buckwheat-meal; the last
should always be included among the food ; fatty substances, as suet, are added by some
to increase the fatness of the fowl. The true object, however, should be to develop abundance of
good, wholesome flesh. Milk, either new or skimmed, is a valuable addition to the food, with which
it should be mixed hot. Three weeks is the usual period for fattening a fowl.
1177. — CHICKEN, MINCED. (Fr.— Poulet Emince.)
Ingredients. — Cold chicken; to each % lb. allow 1 oz. of butter, 1 oz.
of flour, -J- a pint of stock, salt and pepper, poached eggs.
RECIPES FOR COOKING POULTRY
68 1
Method. — Chop the chicken finely, boil the bones and trimmings
for at least i| hours, and use the stock for the sauce. Melt the buffer,
stir in the flour, add the stock and boil gently for 20 minutes. Season
to taste, add the minced chicken, draw the stewpan aside, then let it
remain until the contents are thoroughly hot, and serve garnished
with neatly poached and trimmed eggs.
Time. — Allow £ of an hour, after the stock is made. Average Cost,
is. 3d., exclusive of the chicken. Allow 1 lb. of chicken and 6 eggs
for 4 or 5 persons.
1 178.— CHICKEN PANADA. (Fr.— Panade de Volaille.)
Ingredients. — 4 to 5 ozs. of raw chicken, \ a gill of cream, pepper and
salt.
Method.— Pass the chicken freed from skin and bone 2 or 3 times
through a mincing machine, then place it in a buttered jar, cover closely,
stand the jar in a saucepan containing a little boiling water, and sim-
mer gently for nearly 1 hour. Pound the chicken in a mortar, adding
the liquid in the jar, season to taste, and pass the mixture through a
wire sieve. Whip the cream slightly, stir in the chicken preparation,
and serve on toast or in ramakin cases. If preferred, the panada may
be heated in a saucepan, and served on hot buttered toast.
Time. — To cook the chicken, about 1 hour. Average Cost, about
is. 8d. Sufficient for 2 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Eggs for Hatching. — Eggs intended for hatching should be removed as soon as laid, and placed
in a dry, cool place. Choose those that are nearly of the same size, for, as a rule, eggs equally thick
at both ends contain a double yolk, and are worthless. Eggs intended for hatching should not
be stored longer than a month ; it is preferable to keep them a less time. In winter nine to eleven
eggs are sufficient to place under a hen ; in warmer weather this number may be increased to
thirteen, and if it be very hot to fifteen. The eggs should be carefully tested by candle light
when thev have been sat upon for a few days ; the seventh or eighth evening will be sufficiently
early. All clear eggs should be removed ; they will serve excellently for puddings, etc. The fertile
eggs should be opaque or clouded, and must be carefully replaced under the hen without shaking.
If during incubation an egg should be broken, it must be removed, and the remainder taken out
and cleansed in tepid water, otherwise the contents of the broken egg will cause the others to cling
to the hen’s feathers, and they too may become fractured. Many eggs are now hatched by artificial
incubators, at a steady temperature of ioi° to 104°. It is important that eggs hatched in this
manner should be fresh.
1179.— CHICKEN PATTIES. (Fr.— Bouchees a la
Reine.)
Ingredients. — 4 to 6 ozs. of cold boiled chicken, 2 ozs. of cooked
ham, 6 button mushrooms, 1 truffle, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice,
salt and pepper, \ of a pint of Bechamel sauce (see Sauces, No. 178),
puff paste.
Method. — Chop the chicken and ham not too finely, cut the mushrooms
and truffle into small dice, and mix all together. Stamp out 9 or 10 patty
cases from the puff paste, and mark the centres with a smaller cutter
to form the lids (see Oyster Patties). Bake in a quick oven, then scoop
out the soft inside, take care of the lids, and keep the cases hot until
682
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
required. Have the Bechamel sauce ready in a stewpan, add to it
the chicken preparation, season with salt and pepper, put in the lemon-
juice, and stir the mixture over the fire until thoroughly hot. Fill
the cases, put on the lids, and serve, garnished with tufts of fresh or
fried parsley.
Time. — To bake the pastry, from 20 to 25 minutes. Average Cost,
is. 6d. to 2s. Sufficient for 8 or 9 patties.
Hatching. — Sometimes the chick within the shell is unable to break away from its prison; for
the white of the egg will occasionally harden in the air to the consistence of joiners’ glue, when the
poor chick is in a terrible fix. An able writer says : “ Assistance in hatching must not be ren-
dered prematurely, and thence unnecessarily, but only in the case of the chick being plainly unable
to release itself ; then, indeed, an addition may probably be made to the brood, as great numbers
are always lost in this way. The chick makes a circular fracture at the big end of the egg, and
a section of about one-third of the length of the shell being separated, delivers the prisoner, pro-
vided there is no obstruction from adhesion of the body to the membrane which lines the shell.
Between the body oi the chick and the membrane of the shell there exists a viscous fluid, the white
of the egg thickened with the intense heat of incubation, until it becomes a positive glue. When
this happens the feathers stick fast to the shell, and the chicks remain confined, and must perish
if not released.”
The method of assistance to be rendered to chicks which have a difficulty in releasing them-
selves from the shells is to take the egg in the hand, and dipping the finger or a piece of linen
rag in warm water, to apply it to the fastened parts until they are loosened by the gluey sub-
stance becoming dissolved and separated from the feathers. The chirk, then, being returned to the
nest, will extricate itself — -a mode generally to be observed — since, if violence were used, it would
prove fatal. Nevertheless, breaking the shell may sometimes be necessary ; and separating with
the fingers, as gently as may be, the membrane from the feathers, which are still to be moistened as
mentioned above, to facilitate the operation. The points of small scissors may be useful, and when
there is much resistance, as also apparent pain to the bird, the process must be conducted in the
gentlest manner, and the shell separated into a number of small pieces. The signs of a need of
resistance are the egg being partly pecked and chipped, and the chick discontinuing its efforts for
five or six hours. Weakness from cold may disable the chicken from commencing the operation of
pecking the shell, which must then be artificially performed with a circular fracture, similar to
that made by the bird itself
1180.— CHICKEN PIE. (Fr.— Pate de Volaille
a l’Anglaise.)
Ingredients. — 1 large or 2 small chickens, \ a lb. of ham or bacon,
2 hard-boiled eggs, veal forcemeat balls, No. 412, f of a pint of chicken
stock, 1 yolk of egg, salt and pepper, puff paste,
Method. — Divide the chickens into neat joints, cut off the legs and
wings at the first joint, and boil these with the backbones, necks and
gizzards for about 2 hours, then strain and use for stock. Parboil the
livers, chop them very finely, and mix them with the forcemeat. Cut
the ham into strips, and the eggs into sections or slices. Place the
pieces of chicken and the prepared ingredients in a pie-dish in layers,
season carefully with salt and pepper, f fill the dish with stock. Roll
out the paste, cover the piedish with it, ornament, and brush over
with yolk of egg. Bake from i£to \\ hours, in a quick oven, until the
paste has risen and set, and then more slowly. Before serving, add
the remainder of the hot stock to the pie. If preferred, the bones
may be removed and the pieces of chicken stuffed with sausage-meat,
or the veal forcemeat may be used for this purpose instead of being
made into balls. See also the forcemeat used in making “ Lark Pie.”
Time. — To bake the pie, from ij to 1} hours. Average Cost, if with
2 chickens, about 8s. Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.
RECIPES FOR COOKING POULTRY 683
1 181. — CHICKEN PILLAFF. (Fr.— Pillau de Volaille.)
Ingredients. — 1 chicken or fowl, 3 pints of stock (or 3 pints of water
and 2 lb. of scrag end of neck of mutton), 6 ozs. of Patna rice, 4 ozs. of
butter, 2 Spanish onions, 2 small onions, 1 tablespoonful of curry paste,
1 carrot, 1 blade of mace, 6 black peppercorns, salt, pepper.
Method. — Divide the chicken into pieces convenient for serving,
remove the skin and the feet and wings at the first joint. Put the
backbone, neck, giblets, bones and trimmings into a stewpan with the
stock (or the water and mutton cut into small pieces), add the outside
layer of each Spanish onion, the carrot, mace and peppercorns, and boil
gently for 2 or 3 hours, then strain. Heat 2 ozs. of butter in a stewpan,
cut the Spanish onions into dice, fry them until lightly browned, add
the rice (previously well washed and drained), 1} pints of stock, season
with salt and pepper, and cook the ingredients gently by the side of the
lire. Melt the remaining 2 ozs. of butter, fry the pieces of chicken
slowly until nicely browned, keep them hot until the rice has absorbed
the greater part of the stock, then put them with the curry-paste into
the stewpan and mix well with the rice. Continue the cooking until
the rice and chicken are perfectly tender, adding more stock if necessary.
A few minutes before serving re-heat the butter in which the chicken
was fried, cut the 2 small onions into thin slices, and fry them brown.
Pile the pillau in the centre of a hot dish, scatter on the rings of fried
onion, and serve.
Time. — About 1 hour, after the stock is made. Average Cost, 4s. to
4s. 6d. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
The Young Chicks. — The young chicks which are first hatched should be taken from underneath
the hen, otherwise she may think her task accomplished, and leave the remaining eggs to spoil.
As soon as the young birds are taken from the mother they should be placed in a basket lined with,
soft wool, flannel or hay, and placed in the sun if it be summer, or near to the fire if it be winter.
A common, but unnecessary practice, is to cram the young chicks with food as soon as they are born,
but if kept warm they will receive no harm if they are not supplied with food for twenty-four hours
after their birth. If the whole of the brood is not hatched by that time, those that are born may
be fed with bread soaked in milk and the yolk of a hard-boiled egg with Emden grits, or food of a
similar nature.
1182. — CHICKEN, POTTED. (Fr.— Terrine de Volaille.)
Ingredients. — The remains of cold roast chicken ; to every lb. allow
3 ozs. of cooked ham, 4 ozs. of butter, nutmeg, salt and pepper, clarified
butter.
Method. — Pass the chicken and ham 2 or 3 times through the mincing
machine, or chop them finely ; then pound in a mortar until smooth,
adding seasoning to taste and the butter gradually. Rub through a
fine wire sieve, press into small pots, and cover the contents with
clarified butter.
Average Cost. — is. 3d. to is. 6d.
1183. — CHICKEN PUREE FOR GARNISH.
See “Chicken Forcemeat,” No. 1162.
684 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1184.— CHICKEN, PUREE OF, WITH RICE.
(Fr — Puree de Poulet au Riz.)
Ingredients.— 4 ozs. of finely-chopped cooked chicken, 2 ozs. of finely-
chopped cooked ham, 4 ozs. of rice, white stock, 2 tablespoonfuls of
cream, salt and pepper, chopped truffle.
Method. — Blanch the rice, drain well, cover with white stock, and
cook gently until tender and dry. Pound the chicken and ham until
smooth, moistening gradually with a little stock, and pass these in-
gredients through a wire sieve. Stir in the cream, season to taste,
make thoroughly hot, stirring meanwhile, and add stock, a little at a
time, until the preparation is reduced to the consistency of thick cream.
Turn into 5 or 6 well-buttered scallop shells, arrange the rice to form
a narrow border, sprinkle the surface with truffle, and serve.
Time. — Altogether, about i4 hours. Average Cost, is. 3d. to is. 6d.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Feeding and Cooping the Chicks. — When all the chicks are hatched they should be placed with
the mother hen under a coop, in a warm dry place. If two hens happen to have broods at the
same time, care must be taken to keep their broods separate, for should they become mixed and
go under the same coop, the hens will probably maim and destroy the chicks which do not belong
to them. After being kept snug beneath the coop for a week — the coop being placed under cover
at nightfall — the chicks may be allowed to run about for an hour or so during the warmest part of
the day. They should be gradually weaned from the soaked bread and chopped egg, and grits or
boiled barley substituted. In eight or ten days their stomachs will be sufficiently strong to receive
bruised barley, and, if healthy, at the end of three weeks, the chicks will be able to take care of
themselves. It is well, however, to watch over them for a week or so longer, to prevent older
chickens driving them away from their food. Great care should be taken that the very young chicks
do not run about the wet ground or on damp grass, which causes the chief and most fatal disease to
which the young birds are liable. While under the coop with the hen a shallow pan of water should
be supplied to the chicks, as they are apt to drench themselves and take cold, or get drowned
in a deep vessel.
Detached nesting-boxes containing finely-sifted moist sand or cinder ashes, good straw, and a
little hay on top, should be placed against the walls of the house, which is preferable to fixed rows
of nests, since they can readily be moved, limewashed and cleansed. In front of the house a wired-
in run should be provided, not less than six feet in height, and as long in extent as possible. The
floor of the run should be covered with sifted ashes or good gravel, the latter being very helpful to
the birds in assisting the process of digestion.
1185.— CHICKEN, QUENELLES OF. (Fr.— Quenelles
de Volaille.)
Ingredients. — 8 ozs. of raw chicken, 2 ozs. of flour, \ an oz. of butter,
\ of a pint of stock or water, 2 eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, salt and
pepper.
Method. — Melt the butter, stir in the flour, add the stock, let boil
whilst stirring. This will produce the panada ; which put aside to
cool. Shred or mince the chicken meat finely, or pass it through a
mincing machine, pound well in the mortar, adding the panada by
degrees and each egg separately, season well, and rub through a fine
wire or hair sieve. Whip the cream slightly, and stir it lightly into
the chicken puree. Poach a little of the preparation and, if too
stiff, add a little more stock or cream. See “ Quenelles of Veal ”
for directions for shaping, cooking and serving.
RECIPES FOR COOKING POULTRY 685
1186.— CHICKEN, RAMAKINS OF. (Fr.— Souffles de
Volaille en Caisses.)
Ingredients.— 6 ozs. of raw chicken, j of a pint of cream, 4 yolks of
eggs, 2 whites of eggs, an oz. of butter, 2 mushrooms, 1 truffle, salt
and pepper.
Method. — Shred the chicken meat finely, or pass it through a mincing
machine, then pound it well in the mortar, adding by degrees the yolks
of 4 eggs, season well, and rub through a fine wire sieve. Whip the cream
slightly, and whisk the whites of eggs to a stiff froth, and then add
with the mushrooms and truffle cut into small dice, to the chicken puree.
Mix lightly together, and put the mixture into 8 well-buttered china or
paper ramakin cases. The cases should not be more than three parts
filled, as the mixture rises considerably in baking. Place the cases on a
baking-sheet, and cook them in a moderate oven for about 20 minutes.
Serve in the cases, and, if liked, send hot Bechamel or other suitable
sauce to table in a sauce-boat.
Time. — To bake, from 18 to 20 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. 6d.
Sufficient for 8 cases.
The Fowl House. — In constructing a fowl house, care should be taken to build it against a wall
or fence facing the south, or in one corner, so that the garden or fence forms two of the sides. The
corner should if possible face south or south-east, thus sheltering the fowls from cold winds, and
driving rains or sleet. The side and end of the fowl house should be built of sound weather board-
ing, and the roof of the same material with a good fall, so that the rain may run off quickly. The
door with a slide should be placed in the corner of the house furthest away from the corner leading
into the fowl run. The floor of the house should slope half an inch to the foot from back to front,
to ensure good drainage. If practicable, it should be made of concrete, to keep away rats or other
vermin. Failing this material, a good floor may be formed of chalk and dry soil, mixed together
and well rammed down. Upon this some three inches of dry ashes should be sifted, and kept regu-
larly raked. The perches should be of good size and rounded, arranged like steps, not placed one
above the other — the ends falling into sockets, so that they may be easily taken out and cleaned.
Convenient slips of wood should be driven into the wall, to render access to the perches as easy as
possible. Ventilation, which is essential to the health of fowls, should be at the top of the house,
and the amount of air admitted regulated by a sliding door ; light is also important for the birds ;
one or two small panes of glass should therefore be let into the house front on the sunny side.
1187. — CHICKEN, RECHAUFFE OF.
See “ Fowl, Hashed,” Recipe No. 1224.
1188. — CHICKEN, RISSOLES OR RISSOLETTES OF.
(Fr. — Rissolettes de Volaille.)
Ingredients. — About 4 ozs. of cooked chicken, 2 ozs. of cooked ham or
tongue, 4 button mushrooms, 1 small truffle, \ an oz. of butter, \ an oz.
of flour, J of a pint of white stock, 1 tablespoonful of cream, salt and
pepper, egg, breadcrumbs, frying-fat, rough puff paste.
Method. — Chop the chicken and ham finely, cut the mushrooms
and truffle into small dice. Melt the butter in a stewpan, stir in the
flour, add the stock, stir and boil well. Put in the chicken and ham,
season to taste, mix the ingredients well over the fire, then add the
mushrooms, truffle and cream, and put aside to cool. Roll out the
686
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
paste as thinly as possible — stamp it out into rounds of about 2 inches
diameter, pile a teaspoonful of the preparation in the centre, wet the
edges with water, place another round of paste on the top, and press
the edges together neatly. Brush over with egg and cover with
breadcrumbs, and fry until lightly browned in hot fat. If preferred,
half the quantity of the meat mixture may be enclosed in 1 round of
paste, one half of which must be folded over to form them into half-
moon shapes ; variety may be introduced by substituting crushed
vermicelli for the breadcrumbs.
Time. — Altogether, i-£ hours. Average Cost, is. to is. 3d.
Sufficient for 8 to 12 rissoles, according to the size made.
1189. — CHICKEN, ROASTED. {Fr.— Poulet Roti.)
Ingredients. — 1 good chicken, 2 or 3 slices of bacon, \ a pint of stock, .
fat for basting, salt and pepper, bread sauce ( see Sauces, No. 180), a
few drops of liquid caramel, watercress.
Method. — Truss the chicken for roasting, prick the entire surface of
the breast with the point of a metal skewer or trussing needle, skewer
over it the slices of bacon, baste well with hot fat, and roast before a
clear fire or in a moderate oven for about 1 hour. Baste frequently,
and a few minutes before serving remove the bacon for the breast to
brown. Meanwhile simmer the neck (and the liver and gizzard when
not trussed in the wings) in the stock. When the chicken is sufficiently
cooked remove it to a dish, drain off every particle of fat, taking care
not to disturb the sediment, pour in the stock, boil for 2 or 3 minutes,
season and colour to taste, and strain into a sauceboat. Have ready
the watercress well washed, drained, and season lightly with salt
and pepper, and use as garnish. Serve both gravy and bread sauce
separately.
Xime. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 3s. 6d. to 4s. Sufficient from 4
to 6 persons.
Noxe, — The pricking of the breast is not essential, but some cooks prefer this way.
1190. — CHICKEN, ROASTED, FRENCH STYLE.
( Fr . — Poulet Roti a la Fran^aise.)
Ingredients. — 1 chicken, 1 oz. of butter, 1 \ gills of stock. For the
mirepoix, or foundation : 1 small onion, 1 carrot, 2 or 3 slices of bacon,
salt and pepper, bread sauce (see Sauces No. 180), watercress for
garnish.
Method. — Draw the chicken, wash the liver and heart, and put them
aside ; cut off the legs just below the first joint, truss for roasting, and
spread the butter thickly over the breast. Slice the vegetables, put
them into a baking-tin with the bacon, and the liver and heart of the
chicken, fry these a little, then place the chicken on the top of the
RECIPES FOR COOKING POULTRY
687
mirepoix, season well with salt and pepper, and cook in a quick oven
for about 40 minutes. Baste frequently, and, if necessary, cover, the
breast with buttered paper to prevent it becoming too brown. When
the chicken is done, remove the trussing string and skewers and
keep hot. Drain the fat from the baking-tin, add the stock, boil
for 2 or 3 minutes, season it to taste, and strain. Garnish the
chicken with tufts of crisp watercress, and serve the gravy and bread
sauce separately.
Time.— About 1 hour. Average Cost, 4s. Sufficient for 4 or 5
persons.
Char acteristics of Health and Power. — The chief characteristics of health in a fowl are bright-
ness and dryness of eye and nostrils, the comb and wattles firm and ruddy, and the feathers elastic and
glossy The most useful cock is generally the greatest tyrant, who struts among his hens despoti-
cally, with his head erect, and with ever watchful eyes. A cock to be handsome should be of medium
size, his bill short, his comb bright red, his wattles large, his breast broad, and his wings strong. His
head should be small, his legs short and sturdy, and his spurs well-formed ; his feathers should be
short and close, and the more frequently and heartily he crows, the better father he is likely to be-
come. Medium-sized hens are, as the rule, the best for breeding purposes.
1 191. — CHICKEN SALAD. {Fr.— Salade de Volaille.)
Ingredients. — Cold chicken (roast or boiled) cut into joints or pieces if
boned ; to 4 tablespoonfuls allow 2 tablespoonfuls of finely-shredded
celery, 1 tablespoonful of finely shredded white of hard boiled egg, 4
tablespoonfuls of Mayonnaise sauce ( see Sauces, No. 201), 1 dessert-
spoonful of salad-oil, 1 dessertspoonful of vinegar, a teaspoonful of
salt, of a teaspoonful of pepper. For garnishing : pickled gherkins,
capers, fillets of anchovy, stoned French olives, lettuce.
Method. — Mix the shredded chicken, celery, and white of egg together,
in a bowl, stir in the salad-oil and vinegar, season with the salt
and pepper, and let the mixture stand for 1 hour. When ready to
serve, stir in the Mayonnaise sauce, range the salad in a dish on a bed
of crisp lettuce, garnish the surface with the gherkins, capers, an-
chovies, olives, and, if liked, the yolks of eggs, previously rubbed
through a fine sieve.
Time. — About ij hours. Average Cost, is. 9d. to 2s. 3d. for this quan-
tity, Sufficient for 5 persons.
1192. — CHICKEN SAUTE' (Fr.— Poulet Saute.)
See “ Chicken a la Marengo,” Recipe No. 1149, and “ Fowl Fried,
with Peas,” No. 1230.
1193. — CHICKEN, SMALL SOUFFLES OF.
(Fr. — Petits Souffles de Volaille.)
Ingredients. — 4 to 5 ozs. of raw chicken, £ of a pint of cream, 2 eggs,
1 truffle, salt and pepper, \ a pint of Bechamel sauce ( see Sauces No.
178), salt, pepper.
688
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Scrape the meat finely, pound it in a mortar with the yolks
of the eggs, add seasoning to taste, and rub through a fine wire or hair
sieve. Whip the cream slightly and whisk the whites of eggs to a stiff
froth, add the mixture lightly to the chicken puree, put in the truffle
cut into dice, and | All some well-buttered china or paper ramakin
cases with the mixture. Bake in a moderate oven for about 20
minutes, and serve the hot sauce in a sauce-boat.
Time. — To prepare and cook, about 1 hour. Average Cost, 2s. to
2s. 3d. Sufficient for 1 dish.
1194.— CHICKEN, SOUFFLE OF. (Fr.— Souffle de
Volaille.)
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of raw chicken, i|- ozs. of butter, the whites of
2 eggs, the yolk of 1 egg, £ of a pint of cream, pepper and salt, •§- a pint
of Bechamel sauce (see Sauces No. 178).
Method. — Shred the chicken meat finely, or pass it through a mincing
machine, then pound it in the mortar with the butter and yolk of
egg, season with salt and pepper, and rub through a fine wire sieve.
Whip the cream slightly and whisk the whites of egg stiffly, and add them
lightly to the chicken puree. Place in a well-buttered souffle (plain
Charlotte) mould, cover with a buttered paper, and steam gently
from 50 to 60 minutes. Or, fill up several small dariol moulds, and
steam for about 25 minutes. Serve with the white sauce poured over,
and, if liked, decorate with finely-chopped truffle.
Time. — 60 to 90 minutes. Average Cost, 4s. to 4s. 6d. Sufficient
for 6 or 7 persons.
Stocking the fowl House. — In selecting birds for stocking a fowl-house care should be taken that
they are not more than two years old. The surest indications of old age in fowls are the fading of
the comb and gills from brilliant red to a dingy brick cplour, general paleness of plumage, brittle-
ness of the feathers, length and size of the claws, and the ragged and corny appearance of the scales
of the legs and feet. The selection will be dependent upon the purposes for which the fowls are
to be kept, and the accommodation for keeping them. If the poultry is designed for the table,
Dorkings, Game, Houdans are good breeds for that purpose. If for laying, Minorcas, Orpingtons,
Wyandottes, Hamburgs, Leghorns, Polish and Spanish fowls are suitable. If both poultry and
eggs are the object, Brahmas, or Langshans, and Brahmas crossed with one or other of the above
breeds, will be found the best. If the object be the breeding of birds for exhibition the fancier
will choose the particular bird he desires for competition.
ii95>_CHICKEN, SPATCHCOCK. (Fr. Poulet a la
Crapodine.)
Ingredients. — 1 chicken, butter, salt and pepper. Tartare, piquante,
or other sharp sauce (see Sauces) 4 to 5 thin slices of bacon.
Method. — Split the bird in half, cutting it through the back only, cut
off the legs and wings at the first joints, and arrange in a flat form
by means of skewers. Brush ovefi with warm butter, season with
salt and pepper, and grill over or in front of a clear fire for about 15
minutes. Turn frequently, brush over with butter, and when done
I. — Snipe on Toast. 2
5. — Roast Fowl.
9. — Roast Turkey
. — Larks on Toast.
6 — Roast Goose.
3. — Roast Pheasant.
7. — Roast Duck
4.— Roast Pigeons.
8.— Boiled Fowl.
RECIPES FOR COOKING POULTRY
689
season lightly with salt and pepper. Remove the skewers, dish op,
garnish with fried bacon, and serve with it in a sauce-boat one of
the above-named sauces.
Time. — About 25 minutes. Average Cost, 3s. 6d. to 4s. Sufficient
for 4 or 5 persons.
1196.— CHICKEN, TIMBALES OF. (Fr.— Petites
Timbales de Volaille.)
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of raw chicken, i|- ozs. of butter, the whites of
2 eggs, the yolk of 1 egg, of a pint of cream, pepper and salt, \ a pint
of Bechamel sauce ( see Sauces, No. 178), macaroni.
Method. — Boil the macaroni in salted water until tender, cut it across
into rings about |th of an inch in thickness, and with the rings line
several well-buttered timbale moulds. The rings should be arranged as
evenly as possible ; and the somewhat tedious task may be facilitated
by using the point of a larding needle to fix them in position. Prepare
the chicken puree as directed for “Souffle of Chicken,” No. 1194.
Fill the prepared mould with the mixture. Steam the timbales from
25 to 35 minutes, arrange neatly on a hot dish, pour the sauce
round, and serve.
Time. — 1 hour Average Cost, 3s. pd. to 4s. 3d. Sufficient for 5 or 6
persons.
Hens Sitting. — Some hens are very capricious as regards sitting ; they will make a great fuss and
keep pining for the nest, but when they are permitted to sit will remain just long enough to addle
the eggs, and then they will leave them. To guard against this annoyance it will be found to be a
good plan to supply the hen with some hard-boiled eggs ; if she sits upon them for a reasonable time
and seems inclined to remain, it will then be safe to supply her with proper eggs.
1 197*~ -CURRIED CHICKEN. (Fr. — Kari de Volaille.)
Ingredients. — 1 chicken, £ of a pint of white stock, 2 ozs. of butter,
1 tablespoonful of curry-powder, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, 1 tea-
spoonful of curry paste, 1 dessertspoonful of desiccated or fresh
cocoanut, 1 dessertspoonful of chutney, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice,
2 tablespoonfuls of cream, 1 apple, 1 onion, salt, cooked rice.
Method. — Divide the chicken into neat joints, and fry them lightly
in hot butter. Remove them from the stewpan, put in the onion
minced, fry for 2 or 3 minutes without browning, add the flour and
curry-powder, stir and cook for a few minutes, then pour in the stock
and stir until boiling. Replace the chicken in the stewpan, add the
curry-paste, cocoanut, chutney, sliced apple, lemon-juice, and salt to
taste, cover and cook very gently for about f of an hour if the bird
is young, or until the flesh of an older bird is tender. Arrange neatly,
add the cream to the sauce, and strain over the chicken. The rice
should be handed separately.
6go HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Time. — From \\ to if hours. Average Cost, 4s. 6d. Sufficient for 5
persons.
Fowls as Food. — The fine and delicate flavour of the flesh of birds, which are included under
the category of “ poultry,” renders it alike palatable and nourishing for both the delicate and the
robust, and by the skill of the cook it can be served at the table boiled, roasted, fried, fricasseed,
hashed, hot, cold, whole, dismembered, boned, broiled, in the form of cream or souffles, or as
pies to please every taste, and adapted to suit the most delicate digestion.
1 198. —CURRIED CHICKEN OR FOWL. {Fr.— Poulet
a l’lndienne.)
Ingredients. — Remains of cold roast chickens or fowls, 1 onion, 1
apple, 1 tablespoonful of curry-powder, 1 tablespoonful of flour, 1
dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, 1 teaspoonful of red currant jelly or
chutney, 2 ozs. of butter, f of a pint of stock, salt, cooked rice.
Method. — Divide the chicken into neat joints, simmer the bones
and trimmings in stock or water for \ \ or 2 hours, then strain and use.
Slice the onion, fry it lightly in the hot butter, add the flour and
curry-powder, stir over the fire for 2 or 3 minutes, pour in the stock,
and bring to the boil, stirring all the time. Now add the sliced apple,
chutney, and salt to taste, cover, and simmer gently for \ an hour, then
put in the pieces of chicken and let them remain in the sauce for
30 minutes, but the stewpan must stand where the contents will be
kept hot without boiling. When ready, arrange the chicken neatly
add the lemon- juice to the sauce, season to taste, and strain over the
chicken. Rice should be served separately.
Time. — About 1 J hours, after the stock is made. Average Cost,
2s. 9d. to 3s.
Age and Flavour of Chickens. — The flesh of young chickens is the most delicate and easily assi-
milated of animal foods, which makes it especially suitable for invalids and persons whose digestion
is weak. Few animals undergo so great a change with regard to the quality of their flesh as the
domestic fowl. When quite young, cocks and hens are equally tender, but as chickens grow older
the flesh of the cock is the first to toughen, and a cock a year old is fit only for conversion into
soup. A hen of the same age affords a substantial and palatable dish. This rule respecting age
does not apply to capons, which, when well-fed and well-dressed for the table, are surpassed by
few animals for delicacy of flavour. Even when three years old the capon is as tender as a chicken,
with the additional advantage that his proper chicken flavour is more fully developed. The above
remarks are applicable only to capons naturally fed and not crammed. The latter process may
produce a handsome-looking and heavy bird, but when tested by cooking its inferiority will be only
too apparent. As a rule small-boned and short-legged poultry are generally the more delicate
in colour, flavour and fineness of flesh.
1199.— CHICKEN, VOL-AU-VENT OF. {Fr.— Vol-au-
Vent de Volaille.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of puff paste, a pint of Bechamel or Supreme
sauce {see Sauces), 6 ozs. of cooked chicken, 2 ozs. of cooked ham
or tongue, 2 truffles, 6 mushrooms, salt and pepper, aromatic spice.
Method. — When the paste has had 6 turns, roll it out to about f of
an inch in thickness, and cut it into either a round or oval form, as
may be desired and place on a baking tin. Brush over the top of the
RECIPES FOR COOKING POULTRY
691
paste shape with beaten egg, make an inner ring, cutting the paste to
about halt its depth, and bake in a quick oven. Meanwhile, cut the
chicken and ham into dice shapes or small cubes, cut the mushrooms
and truffles into small slices, stir the whole into the hot Bechamel
sauce, season with salt, pepper and aromatic spice, and make thor-
oughly hot. When the vol-au-vent case is sufficiently baked, remove
the lid, scoop out the soft inside, till with the prepared ragout, put on
the cover, and serve hot.
Time. — £ of an hour, after the paste is made. Average Cost, 4s. 6d.
to 5s. Sufficient for 6 to 8 persons.
The Moulting Season. — During the moulting season, beginning properly at the end of September
fowls require extra attention, for although moulting is not in itself a disease, it frequently leads to
weakness and subsequent illness. Tonics, as Parish's Food and cod liver oil, or a small quantity
of iron in the drinking water ; nourishing food with abundance ot green food should be given. Should
the feathers, especially the head feathers, not come out, the dead feathers may be extracted with
a pair of tweezers. A strong bird will usually get over his moulting in about three weeks.
1200. — CHICKEN ROAST, STUFFED WITH HERBS.
(Fr. — Poulet roti aux Fines Herbes.)
Ingredients. — 1 chicken, i-l- ozs. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, 1 tablespoonful
of shredded onion, 2 tablespoonfuls of shredded carrot, 1 teaspoonful
each of chopped parsley, chervil, tarragon, or other herbs which are
liked, 1 glass of white wine, f- of a pint of stock. For the forcemeat:
2 tablespoonfuls of breadcrumbs, 1 teaspoonful each of finely chopped
parsley, shallots, chervil and tarragon, the liver of the chicken, 1 oz.
of oiled butter, salt and pepper.
Method. — Remove the gall bladder, wash and chop the liver, finely,
and add to it the breadcrumbs, parsley, shallots, chervil, and tarragon,
with a liberal seasoning of salt and pepper. Add sufficient oiled butter
to moisten the whole, stuff the crop of the bird with the preparation,
secure the opening, and retruss the bird. Roast the chicken in front
of a clear fire, or in a moderately hot oven for about 50 minutes
basting frequently. Meanwhile melt the remaining ij- oz. of butter
in a stewpan, fry the onion and carrot slightly, add the flour, and
cook gently until lightly browned. Put in the stock, stir until boiling,
season to taste, add the wine, and about a teaspoonful of parsley,
chervil and tarragon mixed, simmer gently for £ an hour, then strain.
Serve with a little of the sauce poured round, and send the remainder
to table separately.
Time. — To roast the chicken, about 40 minutes. Average Cost,
3s. 6d. to 4s. 6d. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any
time.
1201. — CHICKEN WITH MACARONI. (Fr.— Poulet a
la Milanaise.)
Ingredients. — 1 chicken, £ of a lb. of macaroni, of a pint of tomato
sauce (see Sauces, No. 281), £ of a pint of Espagnole sauce, No. 244,
692
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
a few drops of lemon-juice or Tarragon vinegar, salt and pepper.
Method. — Boil the chicken until half cooked in stock, or, if this is not
at hand, in water flavoured with vegetables. Put the macaroni into
salted boiling water and cook rapidly for 15 or 20 minutes, until it is
perfectly tender but not broken, then drain well, and cut into short
lengths. Heat the sauces in a stewpan, and when the chicken is sufficient-
ly cooked, cut it into pieces convenient for serving, and put them into
the sauce. Add the macaroni, salt, pepper, lemon-juice or vinegar to
taste, and simmer very gently for J of an hour. Arrange the macaroni
to form a bed in the centre of a hot dish, place the chicken on the top
of it, strain the sauce over, and serve.
Time. — From 1 to ij hours. Average Cost, 3s. 6d. to 4s. Sufficient
for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.
The Diseases of Fowls and their Cure. — Fowls are liable to various diseases ; the most dangerous
of these is, perhaps, roup, a highly contagious disease. It commences with a cold, and is character-
ized by a thick discharge from the nostrils and eyes, which, unless the bird is at once isolated, will
infect the other birds, especially through the medium of the drinking water. The vessels which
contain it should be thoroughly disinfected. The nostrils and eyes of the isolated bird should be
well washed out with warm water, or warm milk and water, and disinfectants, as Condy's Fluid,
Labarrague’s solution of chlorinated soda, one part to two of water, and Gamjees' Roup Pills, may
be administered with advantage. When recovering, tonics, as Parish’s Food and cod liver oil,
will be serviceable. Fresh air and good ventilation in the fowl houses are the best preventatives
of this dangerous disease.
1202.— CHICKEN, WITH RICE AND TOMATOES.
( Fr . — Poulet au riz a la Milanaise.)
Ingredients. — 1 chicken, larding bacon, 2 onions, 2 carrots, 1 turnip,
all thickly sliced, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 10 pepper-
corns, stock, ^ of a pint of tomato puree, 3 ozs. of grated Parmesan
cheese, salt and pepper.
Method. — Truss the chicken, lard the breast in close rows, and wrap
it in greased paper. Put the vegetables, herbs and peppercorns into
a stewpan, add sufficient stock to nearly cover them, and place the
chicken on the top. Cover closely, cook gently for about hours,
adding more stock to replace that which boils away. Wash and
blanch the rice, cook it in good stock until tender and dry, then stir
in the tomato puree and cheese, and season to taste. Put the chicken
in a hot oven for a few minutes, to crisp the bacon, then serve with the
rice either as a border or formed into timbales.
Time. — About if hours. Average Cost, 3s. 6d. to 4s. 6d. Sufficient
for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Obstruction of the Crop. — This ailment is commonly caused by weakness or greediness. To cure
it, the crop should be kneaded to remove its contents ; if no good effect is produced, warm water
should be poured down the throat, and another attempt made. The crop should if possible be
emptied through the mouth, and a dessertspoonful of castor oil administered. If the crop cannot
be emptied by kneading, it will be necessary to cut it, taking care that the incision avoids the
large blood vessels, and is sufficiently large to admit a finger or teaspoon for the removal of the
obstruction. A fine needle and horsehair or fine silk should be used to stitch up the crop, care being
taken to stitch together first the inner skin and then the outer skin of the crop. Sometimes a
diamond-shaped piece is cut from the crop before sewing it up, to contract the crop if it is
permanently loose.
RECIPES FOR COOKING POULTRY 693
1203.— CHICKEN, WITH SUPREME SAUCE.
(Fr.— Supreme de Volatile.)
NoIngr6rts^;:h;ckr’ * of a.pint of supreme sauce <>* “ sauces *•
tabies. ’ * tOCk’ gamish of truffles or macedoine of vege-
neft'jointT1 Until tender’ then divide ft into
Pour tT t’ aSlde’ and P'le the rema*nder on a hot dish
Pour, the sauce over, garmsh with truffles or mixed vegetables, and
forTime’~~Fl0m 1 t0 ^ hours- Average Cost, 3s. 6d. to as. Sumcient
0 4 °r 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.
*®^®®^I'S^*dIwant1oi^exeS ’> ^7? ^ the " ‘"rn ” fowls,
and then fall from its perch, and unless assignee he sLi^'f A, owl so affected will totter
he palate should be opened, and a few drops of a mixture ™ y Eu'?n wdl s°on die. The veins of
one part of ammonia poured down the throat. * composed of six parts of sweet nitre and
1204.— CHICKEN WITH ITALIAN SAUCE.
(Fy.~ Poulet a la Italienne.)
Ingredients.— 1 chicken, trussed for roasting | 0f a nint Tt r
sauce Sauces). For the macedoine, or vegetable nLure rot"
» L p“ “C 1 0Z- °< bl,,ler' P£PP“ and salt, chopped par ley'
ov" and_cutai !„mChkke" <TM °‘ “ ” '» a mSeraTe
ton ’ u , P'eCeS convement for serving. Cut the vetre
tables with a plain |-inch diameter cutter into rounds about i SX
2. bOU lately m salted
he butter in a stewpan, put in the vegetables, season with pepper’
tt0™ ‘he f,re m’"1 ,be »“•<“ u absorbed Arrange
e chicken m the centre of a hot dish, strain the hot sauce over group
and serve ''° "'e b“e' Spri"kle °VCr thf'm ,hc choPPed Parsley
petatms’. ^b°“' 1 hour- A'«W c<“h 3& 6d. to 4s. Sumcient for 3 or 4
places, but .here Ihe birds a^e'lluba'd b^helihhvVinrtc^ NT'* ’tepI in unventilated and dark
Want of freedom, fresh air and insect food are such dl^ses are not likely to occur
fs'XcS6' by the the f-thers from tlAeaK nlcrSe40rfervinagi,
I205* CHICKEN, COLD, GARNISHED. (i^.-Chaud-
froid de Volaille.)
Ingredients.— 2 cold boiled fowls, i pint of Bechamel (No i7<) or
Supreme sauce (No. 212),* a pint of aspic jelly, , oz of gelatine
For garnish : dressed salad, truffle, chili, aspic jelly. g
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
694
Method. — Divide the chickens into pieces of convenient size, skin and
trim them neatly. Dissolve the gelatine, previously soaked, in a little
cold water, add it to the warm Bechamel sauce, stir until cool, then
pour it carefully over the pieces of chicken. Decorate with fanci-
fully-cut pieces of truffle and chili, and when the sauce is quite set,
coat with cold liquid aspic jelly, pouring it carefully over each piece
with a tablespoon. Arrange in a pyramidal form on a bed of dressed
salad, and garnish with slices of cucumber, tufts of endive and cubes
of aspic ; or the aspic jelly may be coarsely chopped.
Time. — 1 hour. Average Cost, 8s. to 9s. Sufficient for 9 or 10
persons.
Note. — Considerable variety may be introduced by using tomato, Espagnole,
and green chaud-froid sauces ( see Sauces), the combination of green and white,
and brown and red being particularly effective.
Diarrh<ea and Dysentery. — Sudden alteration of diet, superabundance of green food, and other
causes, produce this complaint among fowls. In its less acute form a little arrowroot or ground
rice mixed with water and made into a pill and followed by a diet of boiled rice, to which a little
powdered chalk has been added, will be found a good remedy. An excellent prescription is com-
posed of 5 grains of chalk, 5 grains of rhubarb, 3 grains of cayenne pepper made into a pill,
with half a grain of opium added in severe cases. Chlorodyne, 2 to 6 drops in a teaspoon of warm
water is used with good results. Dysentery, if acute, is difficult to cure, and the more merciful
course is to kill the bird and bury it with disinfectants.
1206.— DUCK, BRAISED WITH CHESTNUTS.
(Fr. — Canard Braise a la Fran^aise.)
Ingredients.— -1 duck, i pint of stock, f of a pint of Espagnole sauce
(see Sauces No. 244), 1 glass of port wine, 1 dessertspoonful of red
currant jelly, 1 Spanish onion, 1 lb. of chestnuts, larding bacon, 2 ozs.
of butter, the yolks of 2 eggs. For the mirepoix, or foundation : 2
onions, 2 carrots, 1 small turnip, 2 strips of celery, a bouquet-garni
(parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 6 allspice, 2 cloves, salt and pepper.
Method. — Boil the chestnuts and remove the skins, cook the Spanish
onion in stock or water until tender, chop both finely, season with salt
and pepper, add the yolks of eggs, ana use these for stuffing the duck.
Truss the duck and lard it neatly Put the butter and sliced vegetables
into a large stewpan, place the duck on the top of them, cover and fry
gently for 20 minutes. Next add as much of the stock as will £ cover
the vegetables, and the remainder as that in the stewpan boils away.
Cover the duck with a buttered paper, put on the lid, and cook gently
for about 2 hours, or until the duck is perfectly tender. Heat the
Espagnole sauce, add to it the wine and jelly, and season to taste.
Remove the trussing strings, and put the duck in a hot oven for a few
minutes to crisp the bacon. Serve with a small quantity of the sauce
poured over, and the remainder in a sauce-boat.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, 5s. to 5s. 6d. Sufficient, for 4
or 5 persons. Seasonable from August to March.
RECIPES FOR COOKING POULTRY
695
1207.— DUCK, BRAISED WITH TURNIPS.
(Fr. — Canard a la Nivernaise.)
Ingredients. — 1 duck, 1 pint of good stock, larding bacon, £ a glass of
sherry, 3 young turnips, salt and pepper, mirepoix as in the preceding
recipe, glaze.
Method. —Truss and lard the duck, and braise it as directed in the
foregoing recipe. When cooked, brush over with warm glaze, and crisp
the lard oons in the oven. Strain the stock and reduce it by rapid boiling
until about half the liquid remains, then add the sherry, and season
to taste. Have ready the turnips cut into dice, and cooked until
tender. Place the duck on a hot dish, arrange the turnips in groups,
pour the sauce round, and serve.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, 4s. 6d. to 5s. Sufficient, for 4
to 5 persons. Seasonable from August to March.
The Duck (Fr. canard). — This well-known bird is a member of the sub-family Anatidae , and is
allied to the swans, geese, guillemots and gulls. There are numerous species of ducks which are
found extensively distributed over most parts of the world. Their food is partly vegetable, partly
animal, consisting of insects, larvae, and, in the domesticated state, of corn, maize, etc., worms and
aquatic plants. Some species are migratory, flying in the summer season from warmer to colder
regions. Their nests are constructed on the ground among the rushes on the margins of lakes
and rivers, or in marshy places. The male duck, or drake, is distinguished from the female by its
greater size, the recurved four middle feathers of its tail and the brighter colour of its plumage ;
the feathers of the female being of a more sombre tint, but during the moulting season in June
and November the drakes more nearly resemble the ducks. Ducks are gregarious in their habits.
The characteristic harsh quack of the duck is due to the curiously twisted conformation of the
trachea or windpipe.
1208.— DUCK, FILLETS OF. (Fr.— Filets de Canard
a la Bigarade.)
Ingredients. — 1 good duck, -} a pint of Bigarade sauce, No 226
( see Sauces), 2 small oranges, salad-oil, potato border, salt and
pepper.
Method. — Singe, draw, truss the duck, and roast it in front of a clear
fire or in a moderate oven until tender. Peel the oranges, separate
them into their natural divisions, remove the pith and pips, warm
over boiling water in a covered basin or between 2 plates, and before
serving mix with them a teaspoonful of salad-oil. Remove the breast
from the duck, cut it into long fillets, arrange them neatly overlapping
each other on a nicely-browned potato border, and pour the Bigarade
sauce over. Pile the compote of oranges in the centre, and serve.
The remainder of the duck should be put aside, and afterwards converted
into a salmi or hash ( see recipes for same).
Time. — To roast the duck, from 40 to 60 minutes, according to size
and age. Average Cost, 4s. to 6s. 6d. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
The White Aylesbury Duck is a favourite bird for the table, its flesh being whiter and more
delicate than that of other varieties.
The Buenos Ayres Duck is a very handsome bird, and is chiefly kept as an ornament for
lakes and ponds in parks and the grounds of private mansions. Its prevailing colour is black
with a metallic lustre, and a blue steel sheen on its breast and wings.
696 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1209. — DUCK, HASHED. (Fr. — Canard au Vin Rouge.)
Ingredients. — 1 Cold roast duck, 1 pint of stock, 1 oz. of butter, 1 oz.
of flour, 1 orange, 1 onion, a glass of claret, salt, and pepper.
Method. — Divide the duck into pieces (joints) suitable for serving.
Chop the onion finely, fry it in the butter, add the flour, stir over
the fire until brown, then pour in the stock, stir until it boils, and
simmer for 10 minutes. Cut the orange rind into very thin strips,
add them with the juice of the orange, the wine and the duck to the
sauce, season with salt and pepper, and simmer very gently for £ an
hour.
Time.— About 1 hour. Average Cost, 3s. 6d., to 4s. 6d. Sufficient,
allow 1 duck for 4 persons. Seasonable from August to March.
Varieties of Ducks. — Among the numerous species and varieties of ducks are the Canvas-back
duck, a native of North America, and highly esteemed for the table ; the Muscovy-duck, an erro-
neous form of musk-duck ( Cairina moschata), a native of South America, but domesticated in Europe.
It is larger than the common duck, and possesses a peculiar musky smell. The Shoveller duck, an
inhabitant of our island in the winter, is chiefly remarkable for its long bill and hooked widely-
broadened tip. The plumage of the back is brown, with green on the head and neck. Its eggs
are dirty-white tinted with green. The Pintail, which takes its name from the long tapering
form of the tail of the male bird, inhabits Britain and the South of Europe in winter. The plumage
of the pintail is brown, with white and black lines, and its flesh is palatable.
1210.— DUCK AND RED CABBAGE. (Fr.— Canard
au Chou rouge.)
Ingredients.— Remains of 2 or 3 cold ducks, \ a red cabbage, 2 ozs. of
butter, good gravy or stock, 1 tablespoonful of vinegar, salt and
pepper.
Method. — Wash and drain the cabbage, and shred it finely. Heat the
butter in a stewpan, put in the cabbage and a good seasoning of salt
and pepper, cover closely, and cook gently for 1 hour, adding a little
gravy or stock if necessary to prevent burning. Divide the ducks into
neat joints, place them in a stewpan with just sufficient hot gravy or
stock to barely cover them, put on a close-fitting lid, and allow the
stewpan ,t° stand just below simmering point for nearly 1 hour.
When ready, add the vinegar to the cabbage, turn it on to a hot
dish, arrange the duck neatly upon it, and serve with a little good
gravy, either poured round or handed separately.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 6d., exclusive of the ducks.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable, September to January.
American Mode of Capturing Ducks. — Various methods of capturing ducks are employed on the
rivers in America. Sometimes half a dozen artificial birds are fastened to a little raft, so weighted
that the sham birds squat naturally in the water, and attract the notice of a passing flock of the
wild ducks, which fall an easy prey to the fowling-piece of the hunter, concealed in ambush. An-
other method is pursued in the winter time by the fowler of the Delaware when the water is covered
with rubble ice. He paints his canoe entirely white, lies down in the bottom of it, and floats with
the broken ice ; the ducks being unable to distinguish between the colour of the canoe and that
of the ice. As soon as the fowler recognizes by the quacking, fluttering, and whirring, of wings
that he is in the midst of a flock he rises up suddenly, discharges his gun, and scatters a deadly
leaden shower among the surprised birds.
RECIPES FOR COOKING POULTRY
697
1211. — DUCKS, ROASTED. (Fr.— Canards Rotis.)
Ingredients.- — 2 clucks, sage and onion stuffing No. 404 ( see Force-
meats) \ a pint of stock, \ an oz. of flour, salt and pepper, apple
sauce No. 316 ( see Sauces).
Method. — Stuff the body of the ducks with the onion farce or stuffing
and truss them as directed. Baste them well with hot fat, and roast
them in front of a clear fire or in a moderately hot oven for about x
hour, basting frequently. When done, pour off the fat and if a
thick gravy is preferred, brown the flour in the dripping-pan before
adding the stock. Bring the gravy to boiling point, season to taste,
simmer for 1 or 2 minutes, and serve in a sauce-boat.
Time. — From 1 to ij- hours. Average Cost, 7s. to 8s. Sufficient for 8
to 9 persons. Seasonable from August to March.
Bow-bill Ducks. — The short legs of the Anatidae or duck sub-family, from their backward posi-
tion, cause the fore part of the body to preponderate, and produces the ungainly movement which
characterizes the duck when walking on land. Some species of ducks are, however, more adapted
to terrestrial habits than others, and among these is the summer duck of America ( Dendronessa
stionsa). This handsome bird usually rears her young in the holes of trees which overhang the
water. When sufficiently strong the ducklings scramble to the mouth of the hole, launch into the
air with their little wings and feet outstretched, and drop into the water. If the nest is situated
some distance from the water, the mother carries them to it one by one in her bill, carefully holding
each so that it sustains no injury. It has been noticed that when the tree is still further away
from a stream or pool the duck allows her young to fall upon the grass and dry leaves beneath
the tree, and afterwards leads them directly to the water. Among the varieties of ducks some are
interesting, owing to some singularity of appearance, as the bow-bill or hook-bill duck, so named
from the distorted shape of its bill, and the Penguin-duck, which waddles in an upright position,
and thus resembles its namesake.
1212. — DUCK, ROUENNAISE STYLE. (Fr.— Canard
a la Rouennaise.)
Ingredients. — 1 large “ Rouen ” duck, 2 ozs. of butter, 1 tablespoon-
ful of chopped shallots, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf),
\ a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, 1 glass of claret, \ a pint of stock, 1
dessertspoonful of flour. For the stuffing: the heart and liver of
the duck, 2 tablespoonfuls of breadcrumbs, 1 teaspoonful of finely
chopped parsley, 1 small onion parboiled and finely chopped, 1 oz.
of butter, salt and pepper.
Method. — Remove the gall bladder from the liver, wash both liver
and heart, and chop them finely. Add the breadcrumbs, parsley,
onion, a good seasoning of saxt and 1 oz. of butter, previously oiled.
Stuff the duck with this preparation, secure the opening, and truss into
shape. Heat the 2 ozs. of butter in a stewpan sufficiently large to
hold the duck, put in the duck and chopped shallot, then fry until
nicely browned. Remove the duck, sprinkle in the flour, let it brown,
add the stock and claret, and stir until boiling. Replace the bird,
add the bouquet-garni and lemon-juice, season to taste, cover closely, and
braise in a moderately cool oven for about 1 hour, or until tender. Joint
the duck, but keep it in shape, and serve with the sauce strained over.
Time. — About ib hours. Average Cost, 4s. to 4s. 6d. Sufficient
698
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable from March to September, but to be
obtained all the year round.
The Rouen Duck, bred largely in Normandy, is a large and handsome variety of duck. Its
plumage is somewhat sombre, and its flesh is darker and less delicate in flavour than the Aylesbury
duck, with which breed the Rouen duck is usually mated, the result being an increase of size and
strength. These ducks abound in Normandy and Brittany, and duck-liver pates are a popular
relish in those districts.
The Shoveller-Duck is characterized by its long hooked bill, with a broadened tip. Its head
and neck are green, and the colour of its body brown, with white underneath. It inhabits Britain
during the winter.
1213. — DUCK, SALMI OF. (Fr. — Salmis de Canard
aux Olives.)
Ingredients. — 1 duck (or remains of cold ducks), 12 stoned French
olives, i|- ozs. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, f of a pint of stock, 1 medium-
sized Spanish onion, fat for basting, salt and pepper.
Method. — Singe, draw, and truss the duck, slice the onion, and put
it into a baking-tin ; place the duck on the top, baste with hot fat,
and roast in a moderate oven for \ an hour, basting frequently. In
the meantime, melt the butter, stir in the flour, and cook over the fire
until a brown roux or thickening is formed, then add the stock, stir until
boiling, and simmer until required. When the duck is sufficiently
roasted, remove the trussing string, cut the bird into small joints,
add these with the olives to the sauce, season well, and simmer gently
for about \ an hour. Return the baking-tin to the oven until the slices
of onion are tender, then rub them through a fine hair sieve, and add
them to the contents of the stewpan. Drain off every particle of fat,
and add the sediment in the baking-tin to the sauce. When it is
ready dish the salmi in the centre of a hot dish on a croute of fried
bread, pour over the sauce, and the olives. Serve hot.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 4s. to 5s. Sufficient for 4 or 5
persons.
The Wild Duck. — In many parts of England the wild duck is to be found, especially in desolate
fenny places where water is abundant. Wild ducks are plentiful in Lincolnshire, and are taken
in the decoys, or ponds situated in the marshes, and surrounded with wood or reeds to prevent the
birds which frequent them from being disturbed. The birds sleep in these ponds during the day,
and as soon as the evening sets in the decoy-duck rises, for the wild ducks feed during the night.
Now is the time for the decoy-ducks to entrap the others. From the ponds in different directions
canals diverge, at the end of which funnel-shaped nets are placed. Along these the decoy-ducks
lead the others in search of food. When they have gone a certain length a decoy-man appears, and
drives the birds further on until they are finally taken in the nets. The London market is largely
supplied from the Lincolnshire fens. The Chinese have a singular method of capturing wild ducks.
A man having his head covered with an empty calabash wades in the water up to his chin, and
approaches the place where the ducks are swimming. The unsuspicious birds allow the calabash
to move among them at will. The man accordingly walks about in the midst of the game, pulls
them by the legs under the water, and fixes the ducks to his belt until he has secured as many as
he requires, and then moves off without the birds discovering the trick played upon them. This
mode of duck-hunting is also practised on the Ganges, earthen vessels being used by the Hindus
instead of calabashes.
The male of the wild duck is called a “mallard,” and the young ducks "flappers.” The time to try
to find a brood of these is about the month of J uly among the rushes of the deepest and most retired
parts of some brook or stream, where, if the old bird is sprung, it may be assumed that its brood
is not far off. When once found flappers are easily killed, as they attain their full growth before
their wings are fledged. The sport, therefore, more resembles hunting water-rats than shooting
birds. When the flappers take wing they are then called wild ducks, and about the month of August
they betake themselves to the cornfields, remaining there until disturbed by the harvest operations.
Tne wild ducks then frequent the rivers early in the evening, and afford excellent sport to those
who possess the patience to wait for the birds. To recognize a wild duck it is only necessary to look
at its claws, which should be black.
RECIPES FOR COOKING POULTRY 699
1214. — DUCK, STEWED WHOLE. (Fr — Canard en
Ragout.)
Ingredients. — 1 duck, 1 pint of brown stock, 1^ ozs. of butler, ij-ozs.
of flour, 2 onions sliced, 2 sage leaves, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme,
bay-leaf), salt and pepper.
Method. — Roast the duck, or bake it in a good oven for 20 minutes,
then place it in a stewpan with the herbs and onions, and cook slowly
for §■ of an hour. Melt the butter, add the flour, and, when well browned,
strain in the stock. Stir over the fire until a smooth sauce is obtained,
then draw the stewpan aside, simmer gently for 20 minutes and strain,
Serve the duck on a hot dish, pour over it some of the sauce, and send
the remainder to table in a sauceboat.
Time. — About 1^ hours. Average Cost, 3s. 6d. to 4s. 3d. Sufficient
for 4 or s persons. Seasonable from August to March.
r The Mallard or Wild Duck (Fr. canard sauvage). — Anas boschas is the original stock from which
the numerous varieties of the domesticated duck have been derived. It is found throughout Europe,
Asia and America. The plumage of the male is metallic green on the head and neck, the latter being
encircled with a collar of white ; the body is of a dark chestnut colour, marked with black ; that of
the female is of a dull brown hue. In the spring the plumage of the male begins to fade, and in about
two months the brilliancy of his feathers disappears, so that the mdle bird is scarcely distinguishable
from the female. Then the greens and the blues and the browns begin to bud out again, and by
October he is once more a gorgeous drake. It is a curious fact that domestication has seriously
deteriorated the moral character of the duck. In the wild state the drake is a faithful husband,
devotiQg himself to one wife, but in the domestic state he becomes a polygamist and owns a dozen
wives. The females are much more solicitous for their progeny in the wild state than when tame,
and if her ducklings are molested she will buffet the transgressor with her broad wings, and dash
boldly into his face, striking vigorously with her stout beak. If her nest is searched for in the long
grass, the mother bird will try by every means in her power to lure away the intruder, a favourite
manoeuvre being to simulate lameness to encourage pursuit and capture. After being pursued for
half a mile or so, the bird will fly up and make her escape.
The duck was highly esteemed by theRomans for the delicacy and flavour of its flesh, to which
even medicinal virtues were ascribed. Plutarch states that Cato preserved his household in health
during a plague by dieting its members on roast duck.
1215. — DUCK STEWED WITH GREEN PEAS.
( Fr . — Canard aux Petits Pois.)
Ingredients. — Remains of cold roast ducks, 1 pint of brown sauce
(see Sauces, No. 233), 1 pint of shelled peas, 1 sprig of mint, 1 lump
of sugar, lemon-juice.
Method. — Parboil the peas with the mint and sugar, and drain well.
Divide the remains of the ducks into neat pieces, put them into the hot
brown sauce, add the peas, season to taste, and simmer very gently
for \ an hour. Before serving, add a few drops of lemon-juice.
Time. — From 45 to 60 minutes. Average Cost, is., exclusive of the
ducks. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable from August to March.
The Common Teal (Fr. sarcelle ) is the smallest of the Anatidae , or duck family. Its bill is
long and furnished with a horny tip ; the plumage of the male is brown, with feathers of a
lustrous metallic green. It visits Britain during the winter, and teal shooting is a favourite sport
in the fen districts. It is also captured in large numbers by means of decoys. The green-winged
teal and the blue-winged teal of North America are handsome birds ; and the Chinese teal, or Man-
darin duck, is especially noted for the bright tints of purple, green, white and dark brown, which
distinguish the male bird.
The Blue-bill Duck, known also as the Scaup-duck, frequents our coasts in winter, and feeds
upon small fish and molluscs. Its flesh is coarse.
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
7 oo
1216.— DUCKLING, STUFFED. (Fr.— Caneton a la
Rouennaise.)
Ingredients. — 1 large “ Rouen ” duckling, 1 chicken liver, of a pint
of brown sauce ( see Sauces No. 233), 3 ozs. of breadcrumbs, 1 oz. of
butter, the yolks of 2 eggs, \ a shallot finely-chopped, \ a teaspoonful
of finely-chopped parsley, \ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped thyme,
or £ the quantity of powdered thyme, salt and pepper, nutmeg.
Method. — Blanch the chicken liver and the liver from the duckling,
chop them finely, add the herbs, breadcrumbs, butter melted, a pinch
of nutmeg, a good seasoning of salt and pepper, and bind with the
yolks of eggs. Stuff the duckling, baste it well with hot butter or fat,
and roast in a quick oven for about ^ an hour, basting frequently. Then
drain off every particle of fat, pour the hot brown sauce into the baking-
tin, and continue the cooking until the duckling is tender ; 15 or 20
minutes should be sufficient, and the duckling must be almost constantly
basted during the time with the sauce. Serve on a hot dish, strain
over a little of the sauce, garnish with orange quarters, and send the
remaining sauce to table in a sauce-boat.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 4s. 6d. to 6s. 6d., according to
size and season. Seasonable from March to August.
The Eider-Duck (Fr. eider) Somaleria mollissima, supplies the useful " down ” used for making
coverlets and other purposes. It is obtained from the nests of the eider-duck, the female plucking
from her breast the warm, soft elastic down to line her nest and cover over and keep warm the
eggs which she has laid. Each female bird supplies about J a lb. of down. The down is imported
in the form of balls, weighing 3 to 4 lb. The eggs of a pale green colour are five or six in number
and two broods are produced each year. The eider-duck is twice the size of the ordinary duck, about
24-in. in length, and weighs some 7 lb. The plumage of the male is white on the neck and back
and black underneath the body, the crown of the head is deep black, and the sides of the head
white. It has a green bill and green legs. The female is reddish-brown marked with black. Its
wings have two white bands. The king eider-duck, common in Greenland, has a red beak and
legs, and the male has a warty protuberance on the base of the upper bill. The chief habitats
of the eider-duck are Greenland, Norway, Sweden, Iceland and the northern islands of Britain,
where it frequents solitary rocky shores. It is also abundant on the coasts of North America.
I2I7. — DUCK, TO STEW WHOLE. (Fr.— Canard
en Ragout.)
Ingredients. — i duck, good stock, 2 ozs. of butter, 1} ozs. of flour,
2 onions sliced, 4 sage-leaves, 2 or 3 strips of lemon-thyme, salt and
pepper, fat for basting.
Method. — Truss the duck, baste it well with hot fat, and cook it
quickly either in front of a clear fire or in a hot oven until well-browned.
Melt the butter in a stewpan, fry the onions brown, then remove them
and sprinkle in the flour, and let it cook slowly until well-browned.
Place the duck in a stewpan containing sufficient hot stock to barely
cover it, add the fried onions, sage-leaves and lemon-thyme, cover
closely, and simmer gently for \ an hour. When ready, strain and add
| of a pint of the stock to the blended butter and flour, stir until boiling,
season to taste, and simmer gently for 5 minutes. Serve with a little
RECIPES FOR COOKING POULTRY 701
sauce poured over, and hand the remainder separately. Plainly-
boiled green peas should accompany this dish.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 3s. 9d. to 4s. 6d. Sufficient lor
3 or 4 persons. Seasonable from March to August.
Duck Snares in the Lincolnshire Fens. — The following method was formerly practised in snaring
wild ducks in the fens of Lincolnshire. The favourite haunts of the birds in the lakes to which they
resorted were noticed, and a ditch was cut across the entrance to the most sequestered part of a
haunt. This ditch of a circular shape narrowed gradually from its entrance to the further end
which was usually 2 feet in width. On each side of the ditch the banks of the lake were kept
clear of weeds and close herbage, to enable the ducks to rest upon them. Along the ditch poles
were driven into the ground, close to the edge on each side, the top of the poles being bent across
and secured together. The poles then bent forward at the entrance to the ditch, and formed an
arch, the top of which was 10 feet distant from the surface of the water ; the arch was made to de-
crease in height as the ditch decreased in width, so that the remote end was not more than 18 in.
in height. The poles were placed about 6 ft. from each other, and connected with other poles
laid lengthwise across the arch and fastened together. A net was thrown over all, and made fast
to a reed fence at the entrance 9 or 10 yards up the ditch, and afterwards strongly pegged to the
ground. At the end of the ditch furthest from the entrance was fixed a “ tunnel ” net, 4 yards in
length of a circular form, and kept open by a number of hoops 18 in. in diameter, placed at a small
distance from each other to keep it distended. On one side a number of reed fences, called “shoot-
ings,” were constructed, for the purpose of screening the decoy-man from observation, and in such
a manner that the fowl in the decoy might not be alarmed while he was driving those in the pipe.
These “shootings,” ten in number, were about 4 yards in length and 6 feet in height. From the
end of the last shooting a person could not see the lake owing to the bend of the ditch, and there
was then no further occasion for shelter. Except for these “ shootings” the fowl that remained
about the mouth of the ditch would have been alarmed if the person driving the ducks already under
the net should have been exposed, and would become so shy as entirely to forsake the place.
1218.— DUCK WITH CARROTS. (FV.— Canard aux
Carottes.)
Ingredients. — Remains of cold ducks, 3 or 4 large carrots, 4 a pint of
Espagnole sauce ( see Sauces, No. 244 ), 1 oz. of butter, sugar, salt and
pepper.
Method. — Boil the carrots in a small quantity of water with a small piece
of loaf sugar until tender, then rub them through a fine sieve, season to
taste, add the butter, and re-heat. Cut the ducks into pieces convenient
for serving, put them into the hot sauce, and let them simmer very
gently for } an hour. Place the puree of carrots on a hot dish, arrange
the pieces of duck neatly on the top, pour the sauce round, and serve.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, qd., exclusive of the duck.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable from August to March.
The Decoy-Man, Dog and Ducks. — The decoy-man on approaching the ditch, described above,
took a piece of lighted peat or turf and held it near to his mouth, to prevent the ducks smelling
him. A specially trained dog accompanied him. The man then walked very silently about half-
way up the shootings, where a small piece of wood was thrust through the reed fence, making an
aperture just large enough to enable him to see if any fowls were inside ; if none were there he
walked on to ascertain if the ducks were about the entrance to the ditch. If successful in his search
the decoy-man stopped, made a motion to his dog, and gave him a piece of cheese to eat, when
the sagacious animal went directly to a hole through the reed fence, and the birds immediately flew
off the bank into the water. The dog returned along the bank between the reed fences, and came
out to his master at another hole. The master then gave his canine assistant something more to
encourage him ; and the dog repeated his rounds until the birds were attracted by his motions, and
followed him into the mouth of the ditch — this operation was called “ working ” the ducks. The
man now retreated further back, “ working ” the dog at different holes until his prey were suffi-
ciently under the net. The man next commanded the dog to lie down under the fence, and going
himself forward to the end of the ditch nearest to the lake, he took off his hat, and waved it be-
tween the shootings. All the birds that were under the net could then see him, but not those which
were in the lake. The former flew forwards ; and the man ran to the next shooting, and waved
his hat, driving the birds along until they came into the tunnel net, into which they crept. When
they were all in, the decoy-man gave the net a twist, thus preventing them from getting back. He
then took the net off from the end of the ditch, and taking the ducks out, one by one, dislocated
their necks.
702
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1219.-DUCK, ROASTED, WILD. (Fr.— Canard
Sauvage Roti.)
Ingredients. — 1 wild duck, \ a pint of Espagnole sauce, ( see Sauces,
No. 244), 1 glass of port wine or claret, the juice of a lemon, water-
cress, salad-oil, salt and pepper.
Method. — Draw and truss the bird, and roast it in front of a clear
fire or in a moderate oven for about 45 minutes, basting frequently.
Make the sauce as directed, add to it the wine and lemon-juice, season
to taste, and keep hot until required. Serve the duck on a hot dish,
garnish with watercress, previously well washed, dried and seasoned
with pepper and salad-oil, and send the sauce to table in a sauce-
boat.
Time. — About 30 minutes. Average Cost, 3s. 6d. to 4s. 6d. Sufficient
for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable from August to March.
Duck’s Eggs. — All ducks are good layers if carefully fed and properly tended. Ducks when in good
health usually lay at night or early in the morning, and one of the surest signs of indisposition
among birds of this class is their irregularity in laying. The tint of the eggs laid depends chiefly
upon the colour of the duck — light-coloured ducks laying white eggs, brown ducks eggs of
greenish- blue, and dark-coloured birds producing the largest-sized eggs. When placing the eggs
of other birds under a duck to be hatched, care should be taken that the eggs match those of
the duck as nearly as possible, otherwise the duck may turn out of the nest and destroy the
eggs which differ from her own in size and colour.
Cooping and Feeding Ducklings. — Brood ducks should be cooped at some distance from the
other birds. Just outside the coop should be placed a wide and flat dish of water, which must be
frequently renewed. Barley or meal should be given to the ducklings as their first food. If the
weather be wet the tails of the young birds must be clipped to prevent these draggling and causing
weakness. The state of the weather and the strength of the ducklings will determine the period
of their confinement to the coop. As a general rule a fortnight is sufficient, and the luxury of a
swim may sometimes be permitted them at the end of a week. At first the ducklings should not
be allowed to stay too long in the water, for they then will become ill, their feathers get rough,
and their stomachs disarranged. In the latter case the birds must be closely cooped up for a few
days, and bean-meal or oatmeal be mixed with their usual food.
Fattening Ducks. — Some duck keepers allow their ducks to wander about and pick up food
for themselves, and they appear to fatten on this precarious living ; but unless ducks are supplied
in addition to chance food with a liberal morning and evening meal of corn or grain their flesh will
become flabby and insipid. The simplest way to fatten ducks is to allow them to have as much
substantial food as they will eat, especially bruised oats and pea-meal. No cramming is required,
as they will eat to the verge of suffocation. They should, however, be well supplied with clean water
and allowed to have plenty of exercise.
1220. — FOWL, BOILED. (Fr. — Poulet Bouilli.)
Ingredients. — 1 fowl, ii- ozs. of butter, i-\- ozs. of flour, of a pint
of stock, 1 onion, 1 carrot, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf),
6 white peppercorns, salt.
Method. — Truss the fowl for boiling. Have ready a saucepan just
large enough to contain the fowl, and as much boiling stock or water
as will cover it. Rub the breast of the bird with lemon, wrap
it in a buttered paper, put it into the saucepan, bring to the boil,
RECIPES FOR COOKING POULTRY
703
hnd skim well. Add the sliced vegetables, bouquet-garni, peppercorns
and salt if necessary, and cook very gently until the fowl is tender.
A young fowl should be ready to serve at the end of 1 hour, but an old
bird may need twice that length of time. Meanwhile, melt the butter
in a stewpan, add the flour, cook for a few minutes without browning,
pour in the stock (use some of the liquor in which the fowl was cooked
if none other is at hand), and boil up, stirring all the time. Season to
taste, and simmer for 10 minutes, or until the fowl is ready. Remove
the trussing string, place on a hot dish, pour over the sauce, which
must be thick enough to coat it, garnish with chopped truffle,
parsley, or hard-boiled yolk of egg, and serve.
Time. — From 1 to 2 hours, according to age. Average Cost, 3s. 3d.
to 4s. 6d. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
The Speckled or Spangled Hamburg. — There are two varieties of this fowl — a favourite with
many fanciers— the “ golden speckled ” and the “ silver speckled.” The general colour of the
former is golden or orange-yellow, each feather having a glossy dark brown or black tip, particu-
larly on the hackles of the cock, the wing-coverts, and on the darker feathers of the breast. The
female is yellow or orange-brown, the feathers are margined with black. The ground colour of
the “ silver speckled ” bird is silver-white, with a tinge of straw-yellow, each feather being edged
with a glossy black half-moon shaped mark. Both these varieties are very handsome, and the hens
are good layers.
1221.— FOWL, BOILED WITH OYSTERS.
( Fr . — Poulet aux Huitres.)
Ingredients. — 1 fowl, 3 dozen oysters, £ of a pint of Bechamel sauce
(see Sauces, No. 178) £ a gill of cream, 1 oz. of butter, the yolks of 2
eggs, 1 blade of mace, salt and pepper.
Method. — Beard the oysters, place 2 dozen of them inside the fowl,
and truss for boiling. Put the fowl with the mace and butter into an
earthenware fireproof stew-jar with a close-fitting lid. Place the
stew-jar in a baking-tin, surround with boiling water, and cook on the
stove or in a moderate oven for 2\ hours, or until the fowl is perfectly
tender. Blanch the remaining oysters in their liquor, strain the liquor,
pour it over the oysters, and put both aside until required. When the
fowl is sufficiently cooked, transfer it to a hot dish, strain the liquor
and add it to the Bechamel sauce, and, when boiling, stir in the cream
and yolks of eggs, previously blended. Continue the stirring and
cooking until the sauce thickens, but it must not boil, or the eggs may
curdle. Season to taste, pour a little of the sauce over the fowl, add
the oysters and their liquor to the remainder, and serve it in a sauce-
boat.
Time. — About 3 hours. Average Cost, 7s. 6d. Sufficient for 4 or 6
persons, according to size.
704 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1222. — FOWL, BROILED, WITH MUSHROOM SAUCE.
(. Fr . — Poulet Grille aux Champignons.)
See “ Chicken, Grilled, with Mushroom Sauce,” No. 1166.
1223. — FOWL, CURRIED. (Fr.— Poulet en Kari.)
See “ Fowl, Hashed, Indian Style,” No. 1231, also “ Indian Cookery.”
1224. — FOWL, HASHED. (Fr.— Hachis de Volaille.)
Ingredients. — The remains of cold roast fowls, 1 pint of stock, ozs.
of butter, 1^ ozs. of flour, salt and pepper.
Method. — Divide the fowls into neat joints and, when no stock is at
hand, simmer the bones and trimmings for at least 1 hour, adding
the usual flavouring vegetables. Melt the butter, fry the flour until
lightly-browned, add the stock, and stir until boiling. Season to taste,
put in the pieces of fowl, let the stewpan stand for at least ^ an hour,
where its contents will keep hot without cooking, then serve with the
sauce strained over.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 6d. to 9d., in addition to the
fowl. Sufficient, for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Black Spanish. — The real Spanish fowl is characterized by its uniformly black colour, burnished
with tints of green, its peculiar white face, and the large development of its comb and wattle — the
large high comb of the cock being erect — and blue legs. The Black Spanish fowl is an excellent
layer, and its eggs are of a large size. It is, however, a bad sitter, and its eggs should therefore
be placed in the nests of other varieties for hatching. It is a good bird for the table, although
somewhat small. The handsome carriage and striking contrast of colour in the comb, face and
plumage make the Black Spanish fowl an addition to the poultry yard. They are admirably adapted
as a town fowl, and their flesh is esteemed.
1225. — FOWL, RAGOUT OF. (Fr. — Ragout de Vo-
laille.)
Ingredients. — 1 fowl, £ of a lb. of ham or bacon cut into dice, 2.\ ozs.
of butter, i4 ozs. of flour, i£ pints of stock, 1 onion finely-chopped,
salt and pepper.
Method. — Divide the fowl into neat joints. Heat the butter in a
stewpan, fry the pieces of fowl until nicely-browned, then remove and
keep it hot. Fry the onion slightly, then sprinkle in the flour, cook
slowly until well-browned, and add the stock. Stir until boiling,
season to taste, replace the fowl, put in the ham or bacon, and cover
closely. Cook very gently from 1 to hours, or until the fowl is
tender, then serve with the sauce strained over.
Time. — About i| hours. Average Cost, 4s. to 4s. 6d. Sufficient for 5
or more persons, according to size.
POULTRY.
I. Chaudfroid of Capon. 2. Chicken Quenelles and Peas. 3. Fricassee of Chicken.
63
VY*
RECIPES FOR COOKING POULTRY
705
1226. — FOWL, ROAST, GERMAN STYLE.
(Fr — Poulet Roti aux Marrons.)
Ingredients. — 1 fowl, veal farce, 1 lb. of chestnuts, 1 lb. of sausages,
1 pint of good stock, 1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, 1 lemon, salt and
pepper, butter or fat for basting.
Method. — Slit the skins of the chestnuts, throw them into boiling
water, cook them for 1 5 minutes, then remove both skins, and bake
until tender. When ready, lay a dozen aside, put the remainder into
the body of the bird, and stuff the crop with veal forcemeat. Truss
into shape, and roast in front of a clear fire or in a moderatelv-hot oven
for about 1 hour, basting frequently. Meanwhile, melt the butter, fry the
flour until lightly-browned, then add the stock and stir until boiling.
Season to taste, add the remaining 1 2 chestnuts, and simmer gently
for 10 or 15 minutes. Serve garnished with fried sausage and slices of
lemon, and send the sauce to table separately.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 4s. 6d. to 5s. Sufficient for
5 or 6 persons. Seasonable in winter.
The Cochin China. — This familiar fowl, a native of Cochin China, now common among our
domestic poultry was, on the introduction of the first pair of these birds from Shanghai, the occa-
sion of a remarkable furore among poultry fanciers. The fowls were exhibited by the late Queen
Victoria, to whom they had been presented at the Dublin Poultry Show of 1846. They created
an immense sensation ; the approaches to the house of a dealer who possessed some of these birds
were blocked by broughams, carriages and cabs, containing people eager to obtain specimens of the
new importation. Large sums were paid for the coveted birds, and guineas were weighed against
the eggs. The reign of the Cochin China was, however, of short duration. The bird is large and
ungainly in appearance, but is an excellent layer even during the winter, and its buff-coloured eggs
arc much esteemed ; the quality of its flesh is inferior to that of the Dorking and some other breeds,
but by cross breeding with other varieties it is much improved.
1227. — FOWL, ROAST, STUFFED. (Fr.— Poulet
Farci roti.)
Ingredients. — i fowl, veal forcemeat, No. 396, bread sauce, gravy
{see “ Sauces and Gravies ”), thin slices of bacon.
Method. — Press the forcemeat lightly into the crop of the fowl, truss
into shape, and roast in front of a clear fire, or in a moderately-hot oven
for about 1 hour. Serve garnished with crisply-fried rolls of bacon, and
hand round bread sauce and gravy separately.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 3s. qd. to 4s. 6d. Sufficient for
4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.
The Game Fowl (Fr. coq dc combat). — This bird, known for its pugnacious disposition and hand-
some plumage, has been domesticated from early ages. Pliny writes : “ The gait of the cock is
proud and commanding ; he walks with head erect and elevated crest ; alone of all birds, he habitu-
ally looks up to the sky, raising at the same time his curved and scythe-formed tail, and inspiring
terror in the lion himself, that most intrepid of animals. . . . They regulate the conduct of our
magistrates, and open or close to them their own houses. They prescribe rest or movement to the
Roman forces ; they command or prohibit battles. In a word, they lord it over the masters of the
world.” Among the Greeks as well as the Romans, “ alectomancv,” or divination by means of a
cock, was practised, as in the case of deciding the day on which a battle should be fought. A
grain of corn was placed on the letter of each day in the week, turned face downwards ; the sacred
cock was then liberated, and according to the letter he picked the corn from, the time of battle
was regulated. The breeding of game fowls for cock-fighting was in practice many hundred years
before the Christian era, for Themistocles (514-449 b.c.), the Athenian King, is said to have taken
advantage of a pitched battle between two cocks to harangue his soldiers on their courage. ” Ob-
serve ” he said, with what intrepid valour they fight, inspired by no other motive than love of
victory ; whereas you have to contend for your religion and liberty, for your wives and children,
and for the tombs of your ancestors.”
A A
7 06 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1228. — FOWL STEWED WITH RICE. (Fr.— Poulet
au riz.)
Ingredients. — 1 fowl, 4 ozs. of rice, 1 quart of stock, 2 or 3 onions,
2 or 3 strips of celery, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf),
6 peppercorns, salt and pepper.
Method. — Truss the fowl for boiling, put it into a stewpan, or earthen-
ware stew-casserole, with the cold stock; when it boils add the onions
and celery in large pieces, and the herbs and peppercorns tied in muslin.
Cover closely, and cook very slowly for 1 hour, then add the rice (previ-
ously well washed), salt to taste, and continue the gentle cooking until
both fowl and rice are perfectly tender. The rice should absorb nearly
all the stock. Before serving, remove the vegetables and herbs,
season with salt and pepper, and place the fowl on a hot dish, sur-
rounded by the rice.
Time. — From i-J- to 2 hours. Average Cost, 3s. 9d. to 4s. 6d.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
The Best Fowls to Fatten, etc. — The chicks most likely to fatten well are those first hatched in
the brood, and those with the shortest legs. Long-legged fowls, as a rule, are by far the most difficult
to fatten. The most delicate sort are those which are put up to fatten as soon as the hen forsakes
them ; for, as says an old writer, “ then they will be in fine condition and full of flesh, which flesh
is afterwards expended in the exercise of foraging for food and in the increase of stature ; and it
may be a work of some weeks to recover it, especially with young cocks.” But whether you take
them in hand as chicks or not till they are older, the three prime rules to be observed are — sound
and various food, warmth and cleanliness. There is nothing that a fatting fowl grows so fastidious
about as water. If water any way foul be offered him he will not drink it, but sulk with his food
and pine, and you all the while wondering the reason why. Keep them separate, allowing to each
bird as much space as you can spare. Spread the ground with sharp sandy gravel; take care that
they are not disturbed. In addition to their regular diet of bruised corn, make them a cake of ground
oats or beans, brown sugar, milk and mutton suet. Let the cake lie till it is stale, then crumble it,
and give each bird a gill measureful morning and evening. No entire grain should be given to fowls
during the time they are fattening, indeed the secret of success lies in supplying them with the
most nutritious food without stint, and in such a form that their digestive mills shall find no diffi-
culty in grinding it.
1229. — FONDU OF CHICKEN.
See “Chicken, Ramakinsof,” No. 1186, and “ Chicken, Small Souffle
of," No. 1 193.
1230. — FOWL, FRIED, WITH PEAS. {Fr.— Poulet
Saute aux petits pois.)
Ingredients. — The remains of 1 or 2 cold roast fowls, 2 ozs. of butter,
1 oz. of flour, f of a pint of stock, 1 pint of shelled peas, salt and
pepper.
Method. — Divide the fowl into pieces convenient for serving, and boil
the bones and trimmings down for stock. Fry the fowl in hot butter
until well-browned, then remove and keep it hot, and sprinkle in the
flour. Brown slightly, add the stock, stir until boiling, and season
to taste. Replace the fowl, cover closely, draw the stewpan aside
where the contents will keep hot without cooking, and let it remain
for b an hour. Meanwhile boil and drain the peas, and season them
with pepper. Serve the fowl arranged in a circle on a hot dish with the
RECIPES FOR COOKING POULTRY
707
sauce strained over and the peas piled in the centre, or, if preferred,
serve the peas separately.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, about 2s. 6d. to 2s. 9d. Seasonable
from June to September.
1231. — FOWL, HASHED, INDIAN STYLE.
(Fv. — Hachis de Volaille a, 1’ Indienne.)
Ingredients. — The remains of cold roast fowls, f of a pint of curry,
sauce, see Sauces, No. 241.
Method. — Divide the fowls into pieces convenient for serving, and
when stock is needed, simmer the bones and trimmings for at least
1 hour in just as much cold water as will cover them. Make the sauce
as directed, put in the pieces of fowl, and allow the stewpan to stand
for about \ an hour where its contents will remain just below simmering
point. Serve with boiled rice.
Time. — To re-heat the fowl, about an hour. Average Cost, 9d., in
addition to the chicken.
1232. — FOWL, INDIAN DISH OF. (Fr— Poulet a la
Diable.)
Ingredients. — The remains of 1 or 2 cold roast fowls, 2 or 3 small
onions sliced, 2 or 3 ozs. of butter, Ffi tablespoonful of curry-powder,
salt, 1 lemon.
Method. — Divide the fowl into neat joints, score them, spread on a
little butter, sprinkle on a little salt and the curry-powder, and let
stand for about 1 hour. Heat the remainder of the butter, fry
the onions brown, then remove and keep hot. Now fry the pieces
of fowl, and when nicely-browned, pile them on the onions, and serve
garnished with sliced lemon.
Time. — To fry, altogether, about 30 minutes. Average Cost, exclusive
of the fowl, 8d. Seasonable at any time.
1233. — GALANTINE OF FOWL. (Fr.— Galantine de
Volaille.)
Ingredients. — 1 boned fowl, 1 lb. of sausage meat, J- of a lb. of ham
or bacon, 2 hard-boiled eggs, 2 truffles, an oz. of pistachio nuts
blanched, pepper and salt, aromatic spice.
Method.— Bone the fowl cut it down the centre of the back, spread
it out on the table, season the flesh well, and distribute it in such
a manner that all parts are of nearly equal thickness. Spread on half
the sausage meat, on the top place narrow strips of bacon, slices
of egg, slices of truffle, intersperse the nuts, season liberally with salt
and pepper, and cover with the remainder of the sairsage meat. Roll
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
708
up tightly, fasten securely in a cloth, and simmer gently in stock for
about 2 hours. When cooked, tighten the cloth and press between
2 boards or dishes until cold. Before serving, glaze thickly and garnish
with aspic jelly.
Time. — About 2 hours, to cook the galantine. Average Cost, 5s. 6d.
to 8s. 6d., according to size and quality of fowl. Sufficient for 6 or 7
persons.
1234. — GIBLET PIE. (Fr.— Pate aux Abatis a
l’Anglaise.)
Ingredients. — 1 set of goose giblets, 1 lb. of rump steak, 1 onion, a
bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), puff or rough paste, salt,
pepper.
Method.— Wash the giblets, put them into a stewpan with the onion
sliced, bouquet-garni, peppercorns, a teaspoonful of salt, cover with
cold water, and simmer gently from i-|- to 2 hours. Cut the steak into
small thin slices, put a layer of them at the bottom of a pie-dish, add
the giblets and the remainder of the steak in alternate layers, and
season well. Strain the stock, season to taste, pour over the meat to
about f- its depth, and add the remainder when the pie is baked. Cover
with paste ( see Veal Pie, No. 481), bake in a brisk oven for about
% an hour, then reduce the temperature, and continue the cooking
for about 45 minutes longer. The appearance of the pie may be im-
proved by brushing it over with yolk of egg either before baking
or when it is 3 parts done. Before serving, pour in the remainder of
the hot stock.
Time. — To bake, from ij to 1^ hours. Average Cost, 2s., exclusive
of the giblets. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
1235. — GIBLETS, CAPILOTADE OF. (Fr.— Capilotade
d’ Abatis.)
Ingredients. — Cooked giblets, to which ma)' be added slices of any kind
of cold poultry or meat, 1 large onion shredded, 1 carrot thinly sliced,
2 tablespoonfuls of coarsely chopped mushrooms, preferably fresh
ones, salad-oil, \ a pint of good stock, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, salt
and pepper.
Method. — Put 4 or 5 tablespoonfuls of oil or an equal quantity of
butter into a stewpan, and when it is thoroughly hot add the onion,
carrot and mushrooms. Sprinkle in the flour, cook gently for about
\ an hour, then add the stock, and stir until boiling. Season to taste,
put in the giblets, make thoroughly hot, and serve. In Italy, white
wine is used instead of stock.
Time. — To re-heat the giblets, about 20 minutes. Average Cost,
is. qd. to is. 8d. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable from
September to February.
RECIPES FOR COOKING POULTRY
7° 9
1236. — GIBLETS, STEWED. (Fr— Abatis d’Oie.)
Ingredients. — 1 set of goose giblets, 3 of a pint of stock, 1 oz. of butter,
1 oz. of flour, salt and pepper.
Method. — Prepare the giblets as directed in the recipe, wash them,
cover them with stock and water, and stew them until tender. Remove
the liver, neck and tendons as soon as these are sufficiently cooked,
and continue to stew the gizzard until it can be easily pierced with a
fork. Meanwhile heat the butter in a stewpan, fry the flour brown,
and, when ready, remove the giblets, and strain f of a pint of the
stock on to the flour and butter. Stir until boiling, season to taste,
put in the giblets, and when thoroughly hot, serve.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, nd. to is. 3d. Sufficient for
3 or 4 persons. Seasonable, September to February.
1237. — GOOSE, HASHED. (Fr— Ragout d’Oie.)
Ingredients. — Remains of roast goose, 2 ozs. of butter, 1 oz. of flour,
1 pint of stock, 2 finely-chopped onions, 6 button-mushrooms or a
few fresh ones, 2 cloves, 1 blade of mace, 6 allspice, salt and pepper,
croutons of fried bread, apple sauce, No. 316.
Method. — Cut the remains of the goose into neat pieces. Fry the
onions in the butter, when turning brown add the flour, stir over the
fire until it acquires a nut-brown colour, then add the stock, and boil
for 10 minutes. Add the goose, mushrooms, spices wrapped in muslin,
and simmer very gently for f- of an hour. Arrange the pieces of goose
neatly on a hot dish, remove the spices, season the sauce to taste,
and pour it over. Garnish with croutons of fried bread, and serve with
apple sauce.
Time. — About ij hours. Average Cost, 8d., exclusive of the goose.
Seasonable from September to February.
The Goose (Fr. oie). — This familiar bird is generally distributed over the world, being met with
in North America, Lapland, Iceland, Arabia and Persia. There are many varieties, but they do
not differ widely from each other ; in England there is only one species, which is supposed to be
a native breed. The best geese are those on the borders of Suffolk, and in Norfolk and Berkshire,
but the largest flocks are reared in the fens of Lincolnshire and Cambridge. Geese thrive best where
they have an easy access to water, and large quantities are annually sent to the London market.
The period when the goose is at its greatest perfection for the table is when it has just acquired
its full growth and has not begun to harden. The best time for green geese is from the second week
in J une to the first of September. A tradition ascribes the institution of the Michaelmas goose to
Queen Elizabeth, who is said to have chanced to dine on one at the table of an English baronet,
when the news of the defeat of the Spanish Armada reached her Majesty. In commemoration of
this event she commanded the goose to make its appearance at table on every Michaelmas.
1238. — GOOSE, ROASTED. (Fr.- Oie Rotie.)
Ingredients. — 1 goose, onion stuffing (see Forcemeats), f- of a pint of
good beef stock or gravy, apple sauce, fat for basting.
Method. — Prepare and truss the goose, put the onion forcemeat
inside the body, baste it well with hot fat, and either roast or
bake from 2 to hours, according to size and age. Baste fre-
710
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
quently, and if the surface is not well browned, dredge with flour when
the bird is £ cooked. Remove the trussing string, serve on a hot
dish, and send the gravy and apple sauce to table in sauce-boats.
Time. — From 2 to 2\ hours. Average Cost, from 6s. to 12s., accord-
ing to size. Sufficient for 10 or more persons, according to size. Season-
able from September to February.
The Wild Goose. — This bird is sometimes called the “ Grey-lag,” and is believed to be the
original of the domestic goose. The Gray-lag ( Anser ferus) is a denizen of all the extensive tnarshy
districts throughout the temperate regions of Europe. Northwards it ranges to the 530 of latitude,
and southwards to the northern parts of Africa, and easterly to Persia. It is the legendary bird
that saved the Capitol by its vigilance, and was valued accordingly by the grateful Romans.
1239. — GOOSE HAMS.
Ingredients. — i large goose, J of an oz. of saltpetre, 2 ozs. of common
salt, 1 oz. of coarse sugar.
Method. — Split the goose down the back, and rub in the saltpetre,
salt and sugar. Let it lie in pickle 12 days in summer, 14 in winter.
Rub and turn it regularly every day, then roll it in sawdust and smoke
it.
Time. — 12 to 14 days. Average Cost, 9d. to is. per lb.
The Brent Goose. — This is the smallest and most numerous of the species of the geese which
visit the British Islands. It makes its appearance in winter, and ranges over the whole of the coasts
and estuaries, frequented by other migratory geese. A very large number of these birds annually
resort to the extensive sandy and muddy flats which lie between the mainland and Holy Island on
the Northumbrian coast, and are covered by every flow of the tide. This part of the coast appears
to have been a favourite resort of these birds from time immemorial, where they have always re-
ceived the name of Ware geese, possibly from the fact of their continually feeding on marine vege-
tables. The flesh of the Brent goose has an agreeable flavour.
1240. — GOSLING ROAST. ( See To Dress a Green
Goose.)
1241. — GREEN GOOSE, TO DRESS A. (Fr.— Oison
Roti.)
Ingredients. — 1 Goose, 3 ozs. of butter, pepper and salt to taste.
Method. — Geese are called green until they are about 4 months old,
and should not be stuffed. After the goose has been singed and trussed,
put into the body a seasoning of pepper and salt, and the butter to
moisten it inside. Roast before a clear fire for about f of an hour,
allow it to brown nicely, and serve with a brown gravy, and, w-hen liked,
gooseberry sauce. This dish should be garnished with watercresses.
Time. — About an hour. Average Cost, 4s. 6d. each. Sufficient
for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable August to November.
The Egyptian Goose. — The Greek historian Herodotus calls special attention to this bird, which
he stated was held sacred by the ancient Egyptians. Mr. Salt, the traveller, remarks : “ Horus Apollo
says the old geese stay with their young in the most imminent danger, at the risk of their own lives,
which I have myself frequently witnessed. Vielpansier is the goose of the Nile, and wherever this
goose is represented on the walls of the temples in colours, the resemblance may be clearly traced."
The goose is also stated to have been a bird under the care of the goddess Isis. The Egyptian
goose has been placed by the naturalist, Mr. Gould, among the birds of Europe ; not from the
number of half-reclaimed individuals who are annually shot in Britain, but from the circumstance of
its occasionally visiting the southern parts of the Continent from its native country Africa.
RECIPES FOR COOKING POULTRY
7 ix
1242. — GUINEA FOWL, ROASTED. (Fr — Pintade
Rotie.)
Ingredients. — 1 guinea fowl, bacon, fried breadcrumbs, bread sauce,
Espagnole sauce, No. 244 ( see Sauces), watercress, salad-oil, salt and
pepper.
Method. — Truss the bird, cover the breast with slices of fat larding bacon,
and roast it in front of a clear fire or in a moderately hot oven for about
1 hour. When f- cooked remove the bacon, that the breast may brown.
Wash, drain, and dry the watercress, and season it with salt, pepper, and
a little salad-oil. Serve on a hot dish, garnish with watercress, and
hand the fried breadcrumbs, bread sauce, and Espagnole sauce separately.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, from 4s. each. Sufficient for
4 or 5 persons.
The Guinea Fowl (Fr. pintade), called also Pintado, is a genus of gallinaceous birds domesti-
cated in England, and belongs to the same family as the pheasants. It is, as its name implies, a
native of the West of Africa ; it is common in poultry yards, and bears some resemblance to the
turkey. Its plumage is slate-coloured, variegated with small white spots. Its head is ornamented
with a hard protuberance or “ casque.” The wattles are prominent, those of the male being of a
purplish-red, and those of the female red. Its size is about the same as that of the common fowl,
but its legs are longer. The guinea-fowl is gregarious in its habits, associating in large flocks, perch-
ing at night in trees or elevated situations. Though domesticated it retains much of its wild nature,
and is apt to wander. The hens lay abundantly, and its eggs, yellow-red spotted with dark brown,
are excellent Its flesh is not so white as that of the common fowl, and more resembles the flesh
of the pheasant in colour. It is savoury and easy of digestion, and the guinea-fowl is in season when
game is out.
1243. — LARK PIE. (Fr. Pate de Mauviettes.)
Ingredients. — 12 larks, 1 lb. of rump steak, \ of a lb. of bacon, \ a pint
of good stock. For the farce or stuffing : 2 tablespoonfuls of bread-
crumbs, 1 tablespoonful of finely-chopped suet, 1 tablespoonful of finely-
chopped ham or parboiled chickens’ livers, 1 tablespoonful of chopped
mushrooms (preferably fresh ones), 1 dessertspoonful of finely-chopped
parsley, £ of a teaspoonful of finely-grated lemon-rind, J of a teaspoon-
ful of powdered mixed herbs, 1 egg, a good pinch of nutmeg,^ a teaspoon-
ful of salt, J of a teaspoonful of pepper, puff paste, the yolk of 1 egg.
Method. — Bone the larks and stuff them with the farce, cut the beef
into small thin slices, and the bacon into strips. Put a layer of beef
at the bottom of a pie-dish, arrange the larks on the top, intersperse
the remainder of the meat and the strips of bacon, season well with
pepper and salt, f fill with stock, and cover with the paste. Brush
over with yolk of egg, bake in a quick oven until the paste has risen
and become set, then cook more slowly for about 1 hour. Before
serving, add the remaining stock, pouring it carefully through the
hole in the centre of the pie. Serve either hot or cold, but a little
gelatine must be added to the stock if the pie is intended to be eaten
cold, in order that the gravy may form a jelly.
Time. — To bake the pie, about ij or i-|- hours. Average Cost, 3s. 6d.
to 4s. 6d. Sufficient for 6 or 8 persons. Seasonable from November
to February.
712 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1244. — LARKS, BROILED. (Fr. — Mauviettes Grillees.)
Ingredients. — 1 dozen larks, 1 egg, breadcrumbs, salt and pepper,
croutes of toasted bread, butter.
Method. — Prepare the larks as directed in “ Larks, Roasted,” brush
them over with beaten egg, and coat them carefully with breadcrumbs
seasoned with a little salt and pepper. Broil over a clear fire for 10
minutes, and as soon as the breadcrumbs are set, brush them lightly
over with oiled butter. Serve on croutes.
Time. — About 10 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. 3d. to 3s. Sufficient for
5 or 6 persons. Seasonable November to February.
1245. — LARKS, ROASTED. (Fr. — Mauviettes Roties.)
Ingredients. — 12 larks, 12 small thin slices of bacon, 12 round or oval
pieces of buttered toast, fried breadcrumbs, water-cress, salad-oil,
lemon, butter or fat for basting, salt and pepper.
Method. — Pick and singe the birds, cut off the feet, and remove the
gizzards. Truss them in shape by means of a skewer, which should
be long enough to hold six. Brush them over with hot butter or fat,
cover each breast with a piece of bacon, and roast the birds before
a hot fire for about 10 minutes, basting them constantly. Place each
bird on a piece of toast, arrange them in a close circle on a hot dish,
fill the centre with fried breadcrumbs, and garnish with cut lemons,
and watercress seasoned with salad-oil, salt and pepper.
Time. — About 10 minutes, to roast. Average Cost, from 2s. to 3s.
per dozen. Sufficient, 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable from November
to February.
1246. — LARKS STUFFED AND ROASTED.
(.FY.— Mauviettes Farcies et Roties.)
Ingredients. — 8 or 9 larks, 8 or 9 very small rolls of crisply-fried bacon,
8 or 9 round or oval pieces of buttered toast. For the farce or stuffing :
1 oz. of warm butter, 1 tablespoonful of breadcrumbs, 1 tablespoonful
of finely-chopped cooked ham or tongue, 1 large, finely-chopped fresh
mushroom, or 4 small preserved ones, 1 dessertspoonful of finely-
chopped parsley, 1 very finely-chopped shallot, salt and pepper, egg,
brown breadcrumbs, butter for basting, fried potato straws.
Method. — Prepare the birds as in the preceding recipe, stuff with the
prepared farce, coat with egg and brown breadcrumbs, truss and fix
on a skewer, and roast for about 10 minutes before a clear fire. As
soon as the coating becomes fixed baste with hot butter, and repeat
the process frequently. Place each bird on a piece of toast, dish them
in a close circle, pile the potato straws in the centre, and garnish with
the rolls of bacon. Serve with a boat of nicely seasoned gravy.
COLD COLLATION ENTREES
q
RECIPES FOR COOKING POULTRY
713
Time. — About 10 minutes to roast. Average Cost, from 2s. to 3'S.
per dozen. Allow 2 to each person. Seasonable from November to Feb-
ruary.
1247. — LARKS, SALMI OF. (Fr.— Salmis de Mau-
viettes.)
Ingredients. — 2 dozen larks, 1 pint of good gravy or stock, 1 glass
of port wine or claret, the juice of \ a lemon, 2 ozs. of butter, 2 ozs of
flour, 3 finely-chopped shallots, cayenne, salt, butter for basting,
croute of fried bread.
Method. — Roast the larks before a clear fire or in a moderately-liot
oven for 10 minutes, basting them frequentU with hot butter. Fry
the shallots in the butter, add the flour, cook over the fire until brown,
put in the stock, and stir until boiling. Simmer for 10 minutes, add
the wine, lemon-juice, salt and cayenne to taste, put in the birds,
and cook very gently for about 10 minutes. Dish the larks on the
croutc, strain the sauce over, and serve.
Time. — About 20 minutes, to cook the larks. Average Cost, 4s.
to 5s. Seasonable from November to February.
1248. — PICKLED POULTRY.
Ingredients. — 2 or 3 fowls, 4 quarts of water, 2 lb. of common salt,
4 ozs. of brown sugar, J of an oz. of saltpetre.
Method. — Boil the salt, sugar, saltpetre and water together for -1- an
hour, skimming when necessary. Pour the brine into an earthenware
vessel, and when quite cold put in the fowls, and let them remain
2 or 3 days. This method of preserving poultry is employed in South
Africa, Australia and other hot countries. The birds are killed, imme-
diately scalded and stripped of their feathers, and at once immersed
in brine. They are usually conveyed to market in small barrels, 3 or
4 being packed closely together, and covered with brine. They are
best when dressed as a curry or pilau.
1249. — PIGEONS, COMPOTE OF. (Fr.— Compote de
Pigeons.)
Ingredients. — 3 pigeons, i£ ozs. of butter, of a lb. of raw ham or bacon,
2 dozen button onions, x carrot, -f- a turnip, a bouquet-garni (parsley,
thyme, bay-leaf), 1 clove, 6 peppercorns, 1 pint of good stock, 1 table-
spoonful of flour, salt and pepper.
Method. — Truss the pigeons for roasting, cut the bacon into dice,
peel the onions, and fry the whole in hot butter until well browned.
Add the stock, and when boiling put in the herbs and the carrot and
|urnip, previously cut into dice. Cover closely and cook gently for
714
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
nearly i hour. A few minutes before serving skim off all the fat,
add the flour, previously blended with a little cold water, stir until the
sauce reboils, season to taste, and simmer at least io minutes to cook
the flour. Remove the trussing strings, cut the birds in halves, arrange
them neatly on a hot dish, strain the sauce over, group the vegetables
and bacon round the dish, and serve.
Time. — About i£ hours. Average Cost, from is. to is. 6d. each. Suffi-
cient for 6 or 7 persons.
Ihe Pigeon (Fr. pigeon). — This familiar bird is widely distributed over the world, and
some species are found eveD in the Arctic regions. The true pigeons or Columbidae are represented
by the stock-dove ; the ring-dove or cushat is the largest British species. Pigeons in general are
arboreal in their habits, and build their nests in high places. Their food consists chiefly of grain
The note of the pigeon is the well-known “ cooing.” From the wild or rock pigeon the numerous
domestic varieties are derived. The flesh of the pigeon is savoury, delicate and stimulating.
1250. — PIGEONS, CURRY OF. (F>.— Kari de Pigeon.)
Ingredients. — 2 pigeons, 2 ozs. of butter, f of a pint of curry-sauce
No. 241 ( see “ Sauces ”), boiled rice.
Method. — Make the sauce as directed, strain, replace in the stewpan,
and keep hot until required. Divide each pigeon into 4 quarters,
fry them in hot butter until well-browned, and drain them free from
fat. Put them into the sauce, let the stewpan stand for about \ an
hour, where its contents will remain just below simmering point, then
serve with plainly-boiled rice handed round at the same time.
Time. — To cook in the sauce, about \ an hour. Average Cost, pigeons,
2s. 6d. to 3s. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
The Pigeon-house or Dovecote. — The first requisite for keeping pigeons is the provision of a suit-
able and commodious habitation. This may be a wall-locker fixed to the side of a house, stable or
other out-building, or a pole-locker, a barrel, or barrel-shaped structure, fixed upon a long pole. The
latter kind of locker can be placed on a lawn, in a shrubbery or courtyard, as may be most convenient.
Each pair of pigeons should have two holes or rooms to nest in, otherwise there will be the constant
possibility of confusion among the inmates, the breaking of eggs and the destruction of the young
birds. If pigeons be kept for the special purpose of pairing, breeding and rearing it will be preferable
to keep the pigeons in a loft or outhouse adapted for that object. The nesting places should be from
12 in. to 18 in. in height and depth, and 2 ft. 6 in. in length for each pair of birds. Loose movable
boxes may be used with advantage if floor-space is available.
1251. — PIGEONS, CUTLETS OF, WITH ESPAGNOLE
SAUCE. (j Fr. — Cotelettes de Pigeons a
l’Espagnole.)
Ingredients. — 3 pigeons, 6 ozs. of liver farce or stuffing, No. 398, 1
pig’s caul, -J- a pint of Espagnole sauce ( see Sauces), i-l- ozs. of butter,
1 white of egg, glaze, asparagus points, green peas, or other suitable
vegetable.
Method. — Split the pigeons in half, remove all bones except the leg
bones, leave the feet attached, but cut off the tips of the toes; season
well, fold the skin underneath, form the birds into a nice plump shape,
fry lightly on both sides in hot butter and press between 2 dishes
until cold. Wash the caul in salt and water and dry well before using.
RECIPES FOR COOKING POULTRY
7i5
Mask one side of the cutlets with the prepared farce, enclose them in
thin pieces of caul, brush over with white of egg, cover with a buttered
paper, and cook in a moderate oven for about 20 minutes. Brush
the pigeons over with liquid glaze, arrange them in an almost
upright position on a potato border, fill the centre with the prepared
vegetable, pour the hot sauce round and serve.
Time. — Altogether 2 hours. Average Cost, 4s. 6d. Sufficient for 5 or
6 persons.
Aspect of the Pigeon-house. — The front of a pigeon-house should have a south-west aspect to shel-
ter the birds from the cold of the north and east winds, which frequently occasion canker in the mouth
or throat of young pigeons. If the birds are kept in a room a hole should be made in the roof
of the building fitted with a trap-door, which can be opened or shut at convenience. A trap or cage
should also be provided for the pigeons to perch upon and look about them. This should be furnished
wTith bolting- wires to protect the birds from the attacks of cats, which will frequently depopulate
a whole dovecote. It is also necessary to secure the pigeons from rats and mice which suck the
eggs. The platform or trap should be painted white and renewed as the paint wears off, white
being a favourite colour with pigeons ; it also serves as a conspicuous mark, enabling the birds to
find their way home when flying abroad. The boxes should be painted in a similar manner. Lime
and water will serve the purpose as well as paint.
The Necessity of Cleanliness. — This is of the first importance in keeping the birds in good health
and comfort. If cleanliness be neglected the pigeons, both young and old, will speedily be covered
with filth and vermin. The pigeon-house should be cleaned once a week at least — more frequently
if possible — and the floor covered with sifted gravel or gritty sand, which aids the digestion of the
birds ; old lime and salt should be provided for the formation of eggshell and the prevention of
many ailments to which pigeons are liable. Pigeons are very fond of water, and should be furnished
with a wide pan of this liquid, often renewed ; this serves them for a bath, cools and refreshes the
birds, and assists them to keep their bodies clear of vermin.
1252.— PIGEONS, DUCHESS STYLE. (Fr. — Pigeons
a la Duchesse.)
Ingredients. — 3 pigeons (trussed), 4 or 5 ozs. of sausage meat, i f ozs. of
butter, J a pint of Espagnole sauce (see Sauces No. 244), eggs, bread-
crumbs frying-fat, vegetable garnish, peas, beans or macedoine.
Method. — Cut the pigeons in halves, remove all the bones except
the first bone of the leg, season well, and fold the skin under, shaping
them as much as possible like plump cutlets. Fry them on both sides
in clarified butter, press until cold, then mask the upper surface with
sausage-meat force. Coat with egg and breadcrumbs, fry until nicely
browned in hot fat and drain well. Arrange neatly on a potato border,
fill the centre with a dressed vegetable, pour the sauce round and serve.
Time. — Altogether about hours. Average Cost, from is. to is. 6d.
each. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Breeding Pigeons. — In breeding pigeons it is necessary to match a cock and hen and shut them
up together, or place them near to each other, and in the course of a day or two there is little
doubt of their mating. Various rules have been laid down for the purpose of assisting to distinguish
the cock from the hen pigeons ; but the masculine forwardness and action of the cock is generally
so remarkable, that he is easily ascertained. The pigeon being monogamous, the male attaches and
confines himself to one female ; and the attachment is reciprocal, and the fidelity of the dove to its
mate is proverbial. Under the age of six months young pigeons are termed “ squeakers,” and then
begin to breed when properly managed. Their courtship and the well-known tone of voice in the
cock, just when acquired and commencing, are indications of their approaching union. Nestlings,
while fed by cock and hen, are termed “ squabs,” and are at that age sold and used for the table ;
their flesh is far more delicate than that of older birds. The dovehouse pigeon is said to breed
monthly, when well supplied with food. At all events, pigeons of any healthy and well-estab-
lished variety may be depended upon to breed eight or ten times in the year, whence it may
readily be conceived how large are the numbers that may be raised.
716 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1253. — PIGEONS, GRILLED. (Fr.— Pigeons Grilles.)
Ingredients. — 2 or 3 Bordeaux Pigeons salad-oil or oiled butter, salt
and pepper.
Method. — Split the birds down the back, flatten them with a cutlet-
bat, and skewer into shape. Brush over with oil or butter, season with
salt and pepper, and grill over or in front of a clear fire from 15 to 20
minutes, turning frequently. Serve with tomato, piquante, brown,
mushroom, or other suitable sauce.
Time. — From 15 to 20 minutes. Average Cost, is. to is. 6d. each,
Sufficient, for 4 or 6 persons.
The Carrier Pigeon. — Of the various varieties of pigeons, the carrier, with the exception of
the blue-rock pigeon, is probably the earliest known of these domestic birds. Carrier pigeons were
used to convey to distant parts of Greece the names of the successful competitors in the Olympic
games. During the Crusades, when Acre was besieged by King Richard I, his antagonist Saladin
kept up a constant correspondence with the beleaguered garrison by means of carrier pigeons. The
stratagem was, however, discovered when the crossbow of an English archer brought one of these
feathered messengers to the ground, and Saladin’s plans thus unexpectedly disclosed were frustrated.
1254. — PIGEONS, JUGGED. (Fr.— Civet de Pigeon.)
Ingredients. — 4 pigeons, veal forcemeat, 2 or 3 ozs. of butter,
\ a pint of strong beef stock, 1 oz. of flour, 1 finely-chopped onion,
1 glass of port or claret, salt and pepper.
Method. — T russ the pigeons as if for roasting, fry them in hot butter
until well-browned, then place them in a stew -jar. Brown the onion
in the butter, turn both into the stew-jar, add the stock, and a good
seasoning of salt and pepper, and cover closely. Place the jar in a
saucepan of boiling water, or, if more convenient, in the oven in a baking
tin filled with water, and cook slowly for 2 hours. Knead the flour and
1 oz. of butter together, divide it into small pieces, and add these to the
contents of the jar about \ an hour before serving. Shape the force-
meat into small balls, egg-crumb them, fry them in hot butter or fat,
and drain well. Add the wine 15 minutes before serving. Serve with
the sauce poured over, and garnished with the fried forcemeat balls.
Time. — About 2h hours. Average Cost, pigeons from is. to is. 6d.
Sufficient, for 6 to 8 persons. Seasonable any time.
Tumbler Pigeons. — These pigeons are general favourites, and are found in most parts of the
world. They derive their name from the inherited power they possess of turning somersaults in the
air. The Tumbler pigeon is characterized by its full breast, smooth round head, thin neck, com-
paratively short beak, and unfeathered legs and feet. The flight and tail feathers are moderately
long. The iris of a perfect bird should be a pearl-white. In the colour of its plumage and marking
there is great variety. The Almond tumbler is one of the most beautiful of these birds. Highly-
bred birds will attain a high elevation in the air, and there exhibit their peculiar powers. There
are numerous varieties of Tumbler pigeons, as the Cumulet or Volant, Long-faced, Whiteside,
Muffled, Beard, Baldhead, etc. There are also many varieties of foreign birds of this particular
class, including the Bander, Magpie, Helmet and Stralsund Tumblers.
1255. — PIGEON PIE. (Fr.— Pate de Pigeons.)
Ingredients. — 2 or 3 pigeons, 1 lb. of rump steak, £ of a lb. of ham
or lean bacon, f of a pint of good stock, 2 hard-boiled eggs, the yolk
of 1 egg, puff paste, salt and pepper.
RECIPES FOR COOKING POULTRY
717
Method. — Cut each pigeon into 4 or more pieces, according to their
size; cut the beef into small thin slices, the ham into strips, and the
eggs into sections or slices. Put these ingredients into a pie-dish in
layers, season well, and pour in stock to J fill the dish. Put on the cover
(see “ Veal and Ham Pie,” No. 798), brush over with yolk ofegg, bake in
quick oven until the paste is risen and set, then cook at a lower
temperature for about 1 hour. Have ready a few of the pigeons’ feet,
scalded and the toes cut off, also the remainder of the stock. Before
serving, pour in the stock through the hole in the centre of the pie,
and replace the pastry ornament with the feet, fixing them in a nearly
upright position. The pie may be served either hot or cold ; if the
latter, the stock must form a jelly when cold.
Time. — About i-J hours, to bake the pie. Average Cost, 4s. to 4s. 6d.
Sufficient, for 6 to 8 persons. Seasonable at any time.
The Runt Pigeon. — This bird, which is supposed to be of great antiquity, is one of the largest
of the pigeon varieties. Its colour is usually blue and silver, but black, red and yellow runts are
also met with. Although delicate birds to rear, if crossed with the common pigeon, a strong, healthy
medium-sized bird is produced, the flesh of which is of good flavour and useful for the table. The
Runt is frequently called the Spanish Runt, the name by which it was originally known in England.
The Nun Pigeon. — The Tumbler bears a strong resemblance to this variety of pigeon, in the
formation of its head and beak ; but the Nun, although a good flyer, has not the power of tumb-
ling. According to the colour of its head the Nun is named red, yellow or black, but the last is the
favourite colour. The shell-crest, a semi-circular tuft of feathers rising at the back of the head,
should, in a bird of good breed, terminate neatly at each side of the head ; the larger and more
perfectly it is formed, the more highly is the bird esteemed and proportionately valued. The head
and beak should be small and the primary flight and tail feathers coloured, but the rest of the
plumage white. The iris of a well-bred bird should be of the purest pearl-white. The toenails deep
black. The handsome appearance of the Nun renders it a favourite toy pigeon.
1256. — PIGEONS, POTTED. (See Chicken Potted.)
The Trumpeter Pigeon. — This bird has been thus designated from the peculiarity of its voice,
which resembles the sound of a trumpet instead of the " coo ” of other pigeons. It is of a medium
size, and has its legs and feet heavily hocked and covered with long feathers ; its plumage, which
is loose feathered, is usually black and white. The rose on the forehead in a bird of good breeding
should spread out regularly and cover the entire head, concealing the eyes and beak. The Trum-
peter pigeon is known on the Continent as the “ Drummer.”
The Wood or Wild Pigeon. — The stock-dove, as the wood or wild pigeon is also called, is still
found in its native state in some parts of Britain. It forms its nest in the holes of rocks, old
towers and in the hollows of trees, but, unlike the ring-dove, does not nestle in the branches. Numbers
of wild pigeons still visit our shores in the winter, making their appearance about November from
their more northerly retreats, and returning thither in the spring. When formerly forests of beech-
wood covered large tracts of ground in England, the wood pigeon frequented them in vast numbers.
1257. — PIGEONS, ROASTED. (Fr. — Pigeons Rotis.)
Ingredients. — Pigeons, bacon, watercress, salad-oil, salt and pepper
Espagnole, tomato or piquante sauce ( see Sauces), croutons of fried
bread.
Method. — Draw and truss the birds, cover each breast with a slice
of larding bacon, and roast before a clear fire or in a brisk oven for
about 20 or 30 minutes, according to age and size. Baste frequently,
and a few minutes before serving remove the bacon to allow the breasts
to brown. Remove the trussing strings, replace the bacon, serve each
bird on a crouton, garnish with watercress previously washed, dried,
and seasoned with salt, pepper, and salad-oil, and serve the sauce in a
sauce boat.
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
718
Time. — From 20 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, is. to is. 6d. each.
Sufficient, allow 1 bird for 2 persons.
Fantail. — This well-known and curious variety is characterized by its possessing the power of
erecting its tail in the manner of a turkey cock, during which action it trembles or shakes its
neck in a similar way to the peacock when moving about with his train expanded and in full dis-
play. The chief colour of the fantail is pure white, but black, blue and other hues are met with.
The head is narrow and flat, the beak long and slender, the legs and feet naked, the tail-feathers
long and broad. When flying, the fantail contracts its tail contrary to the habit of other pigeons.
The Fantail is common in India, where it possibly originated, and is a favourite bird with the Hindus,
who ornament the legs of their Fantails with small brass bangles containing little silver balls.
1258. — PIGEONS, STEWED. (Fr. — Compote de
Pigeons a la Bourgeoise.)
Ingredients. — 3 pigeons, f of a pint of Espagnole sauce ( see Sauces
No. 244), 1 glass of claret, 1 oz. of butter, \ a pint of shelled peas,
12 button onions, 6 or 7 very small carrots, salt and pepper, croute of
fried bread, i|- inches in thickness.
Method. — Cut each pigeon into 4 pieces, and fry them brown in the
butter. Have ready the hot Espagnole sauce, put in the pigeons and
claret, cover closely, and stew gently for about 35 minutes, or until
the birds are tender. Strain the butter into a small stewpan,put in the
onions, and cook until tender and well browned. Boil the carrots
and peas separately, and drain them well. Arrange the pigeons on
the croute, strain the sauce over, group the onions, peas, and carrots
tastefully round the dish, and serve.
Time. — To cook the pigeons, about 35 minutes. Average Cost, from 4s.
6d. to 5s. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
The Jacobin. This is one of the most prized of fancy pigeons. It is a handsome bird, dis-
tinguished by a remarkable ruff or frill of raised feathers, which commence behind the head and
proceed down the neck and breast, forming a kind of hood which, if perfect, should come forward
as far as the eyes. In form the Jacobin should be slenderly made, narrow shouldered, with
unfeathered legs, and soft, silky, and very narrow feathers ; the head should be somewhat broad
and round, and the eyes pearl-white. Its principal colours are red, black, white and yellow.
The Turbit Pigeon. — This variety resembles the Jacobin, having a kind of frill in the fore
part of the neck. The present breed of Turbit is characterized by a full frill, small head, broad
forehead, short thick beak, prominent hazel eyes, the wings coloured with the exception of the
primary flight-feathers, and the remainder of the plumage white. The feathers at the back of
the head should end in a high, sharp point, just above the crown. Turbits are of various hues, black,
red blue, silver, yellow and variants of these. The Oriental Turbit, a stronger built bird than the
English Turbit, has no crest.
12$<). — PIGEONS WITH OLIVES. (Fr. Pigeons aux
Olives.)
Ingredients. — 2 pigeons, 24 stoned French olives, f of a pint of
Espagnole sauce, ( see Sauces No. 244), \\ ozs. of butter, stock.
Method. Divide each pigeon into quarters, and fry them brown
in the butter. Have the sauce ready in a stewpan, put in the pigeons,
cover closely, and cook them very gently for about 40 minutes, or until
tender. Meanwhile, braise or stew the olives in a little good stock.
Serve the pigeons on a hot dish, with the sauce strained over, and the
olives grouped at the base.
RECIPES FOR COOKING POULTRY
719
Sufficient
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 3s. to 3s. 9d.
for 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.
The Barb Pigeon. — The name of this bird is probably a contraction of Barbary, since Shakes-
peare refers to it under that designation. The Barb somewhat resembles the Carrier pigeon in
appearance. The head is broad and flat, the beak short and the wattle small. The chief character-
istic of the Barb is the spongy, bright red, wheel-shaped wattle, standing out all round the eyes,
which increases in size until the bird is three or four years old. The brilliancy of the colour of the
eye wattles diminishes with age. The eyes of a well-bred Barb should be pearl-white, and its beak
white.
The Rock Pigeon. — In its wild state the rock pigeon is found more abundantly on the rocky
parts of the West of Scotland and the bold shores of the Western Isles than in any other parts of
the British Isles. In these localities the pigeons congregate in great numbers, and flocks from dif-
ferent parts of the coast frequently meet on the feeding grounds, but when the time arrives for re-
turning to rest each pigeon keeps to its own party. A very conspicuous trait of the rock pigeon
is its love of home and its constancy in returning to it. The rock pigeon is the original progenitor
of the numerous domestic varieties of the pigeon, and is used by the late Dr. Darwin in his Origin
of Species and Animals under Domestication, to illustrate his theory of descent by natural selection.
The Pouter Pigeon. — This favourite pigeon is a tall and strong bird with white feathered legs,
and is characterized by his great round inflated crop. The more common birds of this variety are
the blues, buffs and whites, or an intermixture of these colours. The pouter is not a prolific
breeder, is a bad nurse, and degenerates, if not repeatedly crossed and re-crossed with fresh stock,
more rapidly than any other kind of pigeon. It is, however, a useful bird, being much attached
to its home and strays but little, and thus induces more restless pigeons of other varieties to remain
at home.
The Owl Pigeon. — Like the Turbit, the Owl pigeon has a remarkable tuft of feathers on the
breast, resembling a frill or rosette, going partly round the neck ; the size of the frill constitutes
a point of excellence in the bird. Well-bred birds of the Owl type are rounded, broad and short
from the eye to the tip of the beak, which should be short and thick, the eye prominent and the
breast broad. The Owl pigeon is probably a native of the southern shores of the Mediterranean.
There are several varieties of the Owl pigeon, the Whiskered Owl, which has a very large frill, and
is supposed to have come from China ; in Germany it is called the Chinese Owl ; the African Owl,
with bare legs and destitute of a crest ; and the Eastern Owl, imported from Turkey and Asia
Minor.
1260. — SAVOURY DUCK.
See “ Faggots.”
1261. — SMOTHERED CHICKEN.
Ingredients. — A boiled fowl, No. 1220, white sauce, No. 222
Method.- - Divide the hot cooked fowl into neat joints, place them on
a hot dish, cover completely with sauce, then serve.
1262. — TURKEY, BAKED, A LA MILANAISE.
See “ Italian Cookery.”
1263. — TURKEY, BLANQUETTE OF. (Fr.— Blan-
quette de Dinde.)
Ingredients. — The remains of a cold turkey, -f of a pint of stock,
i|- ozs. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, 1 yolk of egg, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream,
1 small onion, 1 small blade of mace, nutmeg, salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the turkey into neat slices, and set these aside until
wanted. Put the bones, trimmings, onion, mace and a little salt and
pepper into a stewpan, cover with cold water, simmer gently for at
least 1 hour, and strain. Heat the butter in a stewpan, add the flour,
cook for a few minutes without browning, put in the stock, and stir
720
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
until boiling. Simmer gently for io minutes, season to taste, add a
pinch of nutmeg, put in the slices of turkey, and let them become
quite hot without boiling. Mix the cream and yolk of egg together,
add them to the contents of the stewpan, stir gently for about 5 minutes,
then serve.
Time. — To re-heat the turkey, about 20 minutes. Average Cost, 6d.
to 8d., exclusive of the turkey. Sufficient for 1 dish.
The Turkey (Fr. dindon). — This is one of the gallinaceous birds, the principal genera of which
are the pheasants, turkeys, peacocks, bustards, pintatoes and grouse. They live chiefly on the
ground scraping the earth with their feet, and feeding on seeds and grain which, previous to diges-
tion, are macerated in their crops. They usually associate in families consisting of one male and
several females. Turkeys are especially partial to the seeds of nettles. The common turkey is a
native of North America, and it was introduced into England during the reign of Henry VIII.
According to Tusser’s Five Hundred Points of Good Husbandry , it began about the year 1585 to form
a dish at the rural Christmas feast.
“Beefe, mutton, and pork, shred pies of the best,
Pig, veal, goose and capon, and turkey well drest :
Cheese, apples and nuts, jolly carols to hear,
As then in the country is counted good cheer.”
The turkey is one of the most difficult birds to rear, and its flesh is much esteemed.
1264.— TURKEY, BOILED. (F>.— Dinde Bouilli.)
Ingredients. — i turkey, sausage meat (i to 2 lbs., according to size of’
turkey), forcemeat balls ( see Forcemeats) ; a small head of celery,
1 pint of celery sauce ( see Sauces No. 184), stock or water, 2 onions,
2 carrots, 1 small turnip, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf),
6 white peppercorns, salt.
Method. — Prepare and truss the turkey for boiling, stuff the crop with
sausage meat, wrap the bird in a well-buttered paper, and put it into a
pan containing as much boiling stock or water as will cover it. When the
liquor boils, add the onions, carrots, and turnip cut into large pieces,
the bouquet-garni, peppercorns, and salt to taste, put on the cover
and cook gently from i-J to 2.\ hours, according to size. Meanwhile,
make the forcemeat balls, and fry them in a little hot fat or butter.
Cut the celery into neat pieces, and boil in well-seasoned stock or water
until tender. When the turkey is sufficiently cooked, remove the
trussing skewers and strings, place on a hot dish, pour the sauce over,
and garnish with groups of celery, dice, and forcemeat balls. If pre-
ferred, Bechamel sauce may be substituted for the celery sauce ; in any
case the quantity provided should be proportionate to the size of the
bird. Boiled ham or tongue usually accompanies boiled turkey.
Time. — From 2 to 2\ hours. Average Cost, 6s. to 20s., according to
size of turkey and season. Seasonable, from September to March. In
best condition in December and January.
The Disposition of the Turkey. — The turkey among its own flock is both fierce and quarrelsome,
but among other birds is usually both weak and cowardly. The domestic cock will often keep a
flock of turkeys at a distance and they will rarely attack him except in an united body, when the
cock is crushed rather by the superior weight of his antagonists than by their prowess. The female
is less ferocious in her disposition than the male, and when leading forth her young, to which she
is very affectionate, to collect their food, gives them if attacked but slight protection, warning them
of their danger rather than offering to protect her threatened brood.
RECIPES FOR COOKING POULTRY
721
1265. — TURKEY, CROQUETTES OF. (TV.— Cro-
quettes de Dinde.)
See “Chicken, Croquettes of,” No. 1157.
1266. — TURKEY, DEVILLED. (Fr.— Dinde a la
Diable.)
Ingredients. — Cold roast turkey. For the devilled butter : 1 oz. of
butter, l- a saltspoonful each of cayenne, black pepper, and curry-
powder, a pinch of ground ginger, piquante sauce.
Method. — Mix the ingredients for the devilled butter together on a
plate. Divide the turkey into pieces convenient for serving, remove
all skin, score the flesh deeply, and spread lightly with the butter.
Put aside, and let them remain for 1 hour, or longer when a highly-
seasoned dish is desired, then grill over the fire, and serve with piquante
or other suitable sauce.
Time. — To grill, about 8 minutes. Average Cost, 8d., exclusive of the
turkey. Sufficient, one leg will serve 2 persons.
Hunting Turkeys. — A favourite diversion among the Indians of Canada was hunting turkeys.
When the retreat of these birds was discovered, usually near to a field of nettles or grain a well-
trained dog was sent among the flock. As soon as the turkeys perceived their enemy they ran
away at the top of their speed, leaving the dog far behind, but still following in their wake. The
turkeys fatigued by their efforts after a time sought shelter in the trees. Sitting there worn out by
their exertions, the birds were easily secured by the hunters, who knocked them down one by one
with long poles which they carried for that purpose.
1267. — TURKEY, DEVILLED. (Fr.— Dinde a la
Diable.) (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 2 turkey legs, made mustard, pepper and salt cayenne.
Method. —Score the legs in deep ridges, in regular lines, both along
and across ; prepare and salt these, adding cayenne, when liked very
hot. Cover with mixed mustard, pressing well into the openings,
and let it remain until the next morning. Have a bright clear
fire, and grill them until the outside is crisp and brown. Spread with
small pieces of fresh butter, seasoned with cayenne, and serve quickly.
Time. — About 8 minutes, to grill. Average Cost, qd., exclusive of the
turkey. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
1268. - TURKEY, FRICASSEE OF. (Fr. — Fricassee
de Dinde.)
See “Chicken, Fricasseed,” No. 1164.
1269. — TURKEY, GALANTINE OF.
See “ Galantine of Fowl,” No. 1233, and use a boned turkey in
place of chicken.
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
722
1270.— TURKEY, HASHED. (Fr — Hachie de Dinde.)
Ingredients.— The remains of cold roast turkey, i-| ozs. of butter,
1^ ozs. of flour, f of a pint of stock made from bones and trimmings
of turkey, salt and pepper, a few drops of liquid caramel.
Method. — Divide the turkey into small neat joints, and put them
aside. Put the bones and trimmings into a stewpan with a small
onion, a blade of mace, a few peppercorns and a little salt, simmer
gently for 2 hours, then strain and use. Melt the butter, stir in the
flour, add the stock, and stir until boiling. Let the sauce boil gently
for about 10 minutes, in order that the flour may be thoroughly cooked,
then season to taste, add the pieces of turkey, draw the stewpan aside,
and let it remain for about -} an hour, where the contents will be kept
just below simmering point. Before serving, improve the colour of
the sauce by the addition of a few drops of caramel. The dish may be
garnished with sippets of toasted bread, or surrounded by a border
of mashed potato.
Time. — About 45 minutes after the stock is made. Average Cost, 6d.
exclusive of the turkey.
Note. — For other methods of re-heating turkey, see the numerous recipes
for re-heating chicken.
English Turkeys. — These are reared in great numbers in Suffok, Norfolk and several other
counties, whence they were wont to be driven to the London market in flocks of several hundreds ;
the improvements in our modes of travelling now, however, enable them to be brought by rail-
way. Their drivers used to manage them with great facility, by means of a bit of red rag tied to
the end of a long stick, which, from the antipathy these birds have to that colour, effectually
answered the purpose of a scourge. There are three varieties of the turkey in this country, the
black, the white, and the speckled or copper-coloured. The black approaches nearest the original
stock,' and is esteemed the best. Its flesh is white and tender, delicate, nourishing and of excellent
flavour ; it greatly deteriorates with age, however, and is then good for little but stewing.
! 2y x . — TURKEY POULT, ROASTED. (Fr.— Dindon
roti.)
Ingredients. — Turkey poult, butter or fat for basting, gravy ( see
“ Gravies ”).
Method. — Truss the bird for roasting and cover the breast with 2
or 3 folds of buttered paper. Roast for about 1 hour in front of a
clear fire, basting frequently, and serve with good gravy, and, if liked,
either fried bacon or boiled ham.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 6s. to 7s. 6d. Sufficient for
5 or 6 persons. Seasonable from June to October.
The Wild Turkey. — In its wild state the turkey is a gregarious bird, going together in large
flocks, frequently some hundreds in number. They frequent the great swamps of America, where
they roost, but at sunrise repair to the dry woods in search of berries and acorns. They perch on
the boughs of trees, usually mounting to the highest tops. In its manner of flight the wild turkey
is awkward, but runs with great swiftness. In the early spring they become so fat that they
are readily overtaken by a horseman. Wild turkeys are now rare in the inhabited parts of America,
but are found in great numbers in the more distant and less frequented districts.
RECIPES FOR COOKING POULTRY
723
1272. — TURKEY, ROASTED. (Fr.— Dinde Roti.)
Ingredients. — 1 turkey, 1 to 2 lb. of sausage meat, 1 to 1 \ lb. of veal
forcemeat ( see Forcemeats), 2 or 3 slices of bacon, 1 pint of good gravy,
bread sauce ( see Sauces, No. 180), fat for basting.
Method. — Prepare and truss the turkey. Fill the crop with sausage
meat, and put the veal forcemeat inside the body of the bird. Skewer
the bacon over the breast, baste well with hot fat, and roast in front
of a clear fire or in a moderate oven from if to 2\ hours, according to
age and size of the bird. Baste frequently, and about 20 minutes be-
fore serving remove the bacon to allow the breast to brown. Re-
move the trussing strings, serve on a hot dish, and send the gravy
and bread sauce to table in sauce-boats.
Time. — From if to 2f hours. Average Cost, 10s. to 16s. Seasonable
from September to February.
1273. — TURKEY, STEWED OR BRAISED.
(Fr. — Dinde braise.)
Ingredients. — 1 small turkey, 2 or 3 slices of bacon, 4 ozs. of butter,
2 onions sliced, 2 carrots sliced, 1 turnip sliced, a bouquet-garni (parsley,
thyme, bay-leaf), 10 peppercorns, salt and pepper, 1 pint of oyster
sauce ( see “ Sauces, No. 310 ”), stock.
Method. — Truss the bird as for roasting. Heat the butter in a
stewpan, fry the turkey until the whole surface is well-browned, then
remove it. Put in the vegetables, bouquet-gami, peppercorns and a
good seasoning of salt, and add stock to nearly cover the whole. Re-
place the turkey, lay the slices of bacon on the breast, cover closely,
and cook gently for about 2 hours, or until the turkey is quite tender.
If preferred, brown sauce may be substituted for the oyster sauce, in
which case the bird might be stuffed, as when roasted.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, 6s. 6d. to 8s. 6d., exclusive
of the sauce. Sufficient for 8 persons. Seasonable September to
February.
The Origin of the Turkey. — It is to North America that we are indebted for this bird, w’hich
is popularly associated with Christmas fare and rejoicing. It is asserted by some that the turkey
was known to the ancients, and that it formed a dish at the wedding feast of Charlemagne. There
is, however, little doubt that it is a native of the north of America, where it is found in its wild
state, from whence it was introduced into Europe in the sixteenth century. It was imported into
France by the Jesuits, who had been sent out as missionaries to the West ; and in many localities
of France even at the present day a turkey is called a Jesuit. On the farms of North America, where
turkeys are very common, they are raised from eggs which have been found, or from young birds
caught in the wood ; they thus preserve almost entirely their original plumage. The turkey only
became gradually acclimatized, both on the Continent and in England ; in the middle of the eigh-
teenth century scarcely more than ten out of twenty young turkeys were reared ; now about fifteen
of the same number arrive at maturity.
1274. — TURKEY WITH CHESTNUTS. (Fr.— Dinde
Farcie aux Marrons.)
Ingredients. — 1 turkey, 2 or 3 lb. of chestnuts, 1 to if- lb. of sausage
724
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
meat or veal forcemeat ( see Forcemeats), 3 or 4 slices of bacon, \ a pint
of stock, 1 pint of good gravy, or brown sauce ( see Gravies and Sauces),
2 ozs. of butter, 1 egg, a little cream or milk, salt and pepper.
Method. — Slit the skins of the chestnuts, throw them into boiling
water, cook for 15 minutes, then remove both skins. Replace in the
stewpan, add the stock, cover closely and simmer gently for nearly
1 hour, or until the chestnuts are tender. Rub them through a fine
sieve, add the butter, egg, a good seasoning of salt and pepper, and if
the puree appears at all dry, a little cream or milk. Prepare, and
truss the turkey, stuff the crop with sausage meat or veal farce,
and fill the body with the chestnut puree. Skewer the bacon
over the breast, baste well with hot fat, and roast before a clear fire
or in a moderate oven from if to 2-f hours, according to size. Baste
well, and shortly before serving remove the bacon in order that the
breast may brown. Remove the trussing strings, serve on a hot dish,
and send the sauce or gravy to table in a sauce-boat.
Time. — From if to 2-\- hours. Average Cost, 10s. to 16s. Seasonable
from September to February ; in best condition in December and
January.
The Feathers of the Turkey. — Human ingenuity has utilized almost every material for use or for
ornament, and among primitive races feathers have been widely employed for such purposes. The
American Indians made an elegant cloth by twisting the inner ribs of the turkey’s feathers into a
strong double string with hemp or the inner bark of the mulberry tree, weaving these materials
in a similar manner to matting and forming a fabric of a rich and glossy appearance. The tail
feathers were made into fans by the Indians of Louisiana.
1275.— TURKEY, WITH CHIPOLATA GARNISH.
(Fr. — Dinde a la Chipolata.)
Ingredients. — 1 turkey, 1 J to 2-|- lb. of sausage meat, 1 to 2 lb. of veal
forcemeat ( see Forcemeats), larding bacon, 1 bottle of preserved
mushrooms, \ a pint each of carrot and turnip scooped out into rounds,
i£ ozs. of butter, \ a pint of stock, 1 pint of Espagnole sauce, No. 244,
fat for basting.
Method. — Prepare and truss the turkey, lard the breast, put \
a )b. of the sausage meat aside, the remainder into the crop of the
bird, and stuff the body with veal forcemeat. Baste well with hot fat,
and roast before a clear fire, or in a moderate oven from i|- to 2J- hours,
according to size. Baste frequently, and as soon as the breast has ac-
quired sufficient colour, cover it with 3 or 4 folds of greased paper.
Divide the butter and put it into 2 small stewpans, add the carrots
to one and the turnips to the other, and fry for 10 or 1 5 minutes. Season
with salt and pepper, add 1 or 2 tablespoonfuls of stock, cover closely,
and cook the carrot gently for about 45 minutes, and the turnip for
\ that length of time. The stewpans should be occasionally shaken,
and it may be necessary to add more stock, all of which, however,
must be well drained from the vegetables before dishing. 15 minutes
before serving, put the mushrooms and their liquor into a stewpan,
RECIPES FOR COOKING POULTRY
725
let them become thoroughly hot, then drain and use. Shape the
remainder of the sausage meat into small balls, and fry them in hot
butter or fat until brown. Remove the trussing strings, place the
turkey on a hot dish, arrange the mushrooms, carrots, turnips and sau-
sage meat balls in groups, and serve the Espagnole sauce in a sauce-
boat.
Time. — From if- to 2\ hours. Average Cost, 10s. to 16s. Sufficient
for 12 or more persons, according to size of the turkey. Seasonable
from September to March ; in best condition in December and January.
1276. — TURKEY, WITH MUSTARD SAUCE.
(Fr. — Dinde, Sauce Moutarde.)
Ingredients. — 2 turkey legs, \ a pint of brown sauce ( see Sauces, No.
233) 1 tablespoonful of made mustard, 1 tablespoonful of piquante
sauce ( see Sauces, No. 265).
Method. — Score the legs deeply, pour over them the mustard and
piquante sauce. Let them soak for \ an hour, or longer if preferred
highly seasoned. Make the brown sauce as directed, add to it the
legs and the marinade, simmer gently for 20 minutes, then serve on a
hot dish with the sauce strained over.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 9d., exclusive of the turkey.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
1277. — WHEATEARS, TO DRESS.
Ingredients. — Wheatears, fresh butter, watercress.
Method. — After the birds are picked, drawn and cleaned, truss them
like larks, cook them in front of a quick fire, and baste them well with
oiled butter. When done, which will be in about 20 minutes, dish
them up, garnish the dish with watercress, and serve with fried bread-
crumbs.
Time.- — 20 minutes. Average Cost, from 6d. each. Seasonable from
July to October.
The Wheatear (Fr. vitrcc). — This elegant little bird, some 6 inches in length, belongs to the family
of the Sylviadac, or Warblers, and is a visitant of Britain during the summer, arriving from the
middle of March to May and quitting our island in September. The male is light-grey, the wing-
quills and coverts are black, the bieist is brown with an orange tinge, and the under parts brown
and white. The wheatear is esteemed as a table delicacy when the birds are well-nourished. Large
quantities of the wheatear are captured by nets and snares made of horsehair. The wheatear builds
its nest in the crannies of rocks and similar situations. Its eggs are of a pale blue tint. It is
also known as the Fallow-chat.
GAME
CHAPTER XXIV
General Observations on Game and the Game Laws
The Game Laws, by which term is meant those statutes which estab-
lish a peculiar kind of property in wild animals, trace their origin to
two principles of Common Law ; the first is, that physical possession
is the underlying idea of the law of property : as wild animals cannot,
by their nature, be so physically possessed, no property in them can
be recognized : they are res nullius ; the second principle or maxim
of the Common Law of England is that res nullius, that is, goods in which
no person can claim any property, belong by royal prerogative to the
Sovereign. Those animals accordingly, those ferae naturae which come
under the denomination of game, are in our laws styled His or Her
Majesty’s, and may, therefore, as a matter of course, be granted by the
Sovereign to another ; in consequence of this royal privilege another
may prescribe to possess the same rights within a certain precinct
of lordship. Hence arose the rights of lords of manors and others
to the game within their respective liberties ; and to protect this right
innumerable Acts of Parliament were passed. Many of these inflicted
penalties of extraordinary severity upon persons convicted of illegally
killing game ; but they are now all abrogated, and the principal
statutes, composing what are known as the Game Laws, may be enu-
merated as follows : 9 Geo. IV c. 69, referred to as the Night Poaching
Act ; 1 and 2 William IV c. 32, the Game Act ; 11 and 12 Viet. c. 29,
the Hares Killing Act ; and 23 and 24 Viet. c. 90, the Game Licences
Act ; to these must be added 43 and 44 Viet. c. 35, the Wild Birds’
Protection Act. It is the Game Act of William IV that concedes to
any one the right to kill game on his own ground, irrespective of quali-
fications of rank or property, game being defined in this statute, as
in the earlier one of George IV, to include “ hares, pheasants, par-
tridges, grouse, heath or moor game, black game, and bustards.”
This Act, however, requires all persons killing or pursuing game to
take out a yearly certificate ; and dealers selling it must also obtain
a yearly licence.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON GAME
727
The Object of the Game Laws is not, however, wholly confined to the
restraint of the illegal sportsman. Even qualified and privileged
persons must not kill game at all seasons. During the day, the hours
allowed for sporting are from one hour before sunrise until one hour
after sunset ; and the time of killing certain species is also restricted
to certain seasons. Thus : — -
Partridges may be shot from September 1 to January 31.
Pheasants ,,
,, October 1 to January 31.
Black Game ,,
,, August 20 to December 9.
Grouse „
„ August 12 to December 9.
Bustard ,,
„ September 1 to February 28.
All other wild birds
,, August 1 to February 28.
It is the Wild Birds’ Protection Act of 1880, referred to above as 43
and 44 Viet. c. 35, which has fixed the close season for wild birds other
than those specified in the Game Act of William IV ; by Sec. 3 of this
Act it is made a punishable offence to kill any between the first day of
March and the first day of August, or to have any killed birds in pos-
session after the fifteenth day of March. This Act was amended
by 44 and 45 Viet, c 51, exempting birds received from abroad, and
included larks in the schedule of protected birds. The sand-grouse
may not be killed at any time. Local Acts are also occasionally
passed, extending the close season in the interest of certain species.
By an Act passed in 1892 the sale of hares and leverets killed in
the United Kingdom is prohibited from March to July inclusive ;
in Ireland the close season is between April 1 and August 12. This
Act does not apply to foreign hares.
The Exercise or Diversion of pursuing Four-footed Beasts or Game is called
hunting, and to this day is followed in the field and forest with gun
and hound. Birds are not hunted but shot in the air, or taken with
nets and other devices, which is termed fowling ; or they are pursued
and taken by birds of prey, which is termed hawking, a forfn of sport
fallen almost entirely into desuetude in England, although now showing
signs of being revived in some parts of the country. Men have been
engaged from the earliest ages in the pursuit of four-footed beasts,
such as deer, boars and hares, properly termed hunting. It was the
rudest and the most obvious means of acquiring human support before
the agricultural arts had in any degree advanced. It is an employ-
ment, however, requiring both art and contrivance, as well as a certain
fearlessness of character, combined with considerable powers of
physical endurance. Without these, success could not be very great ;
but, at best, the occupation is usually accompanied with rude and
turbulent habits ; and when combined with such, it constitutes what
is termed the savage state of man. As culture advances, and the soil
becomes devoted to the plough or to the sustenance of the tamer
and more domesticated animals, the range of the huntsman is propor-
728
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
tionably limited ; so that when a country has attained to a high state
of cultivation, hunting becomes little else than an amusement of the
wealthy. In the case of fur-bearing animals, however, it is somewhat
different, for these continue to supply the wants of civilization with
one of its most valuable materials of commerce.
The Themes which form the Minstrelsy of the Earliest Ages relate either
to the spoils of the chase or to the dangers of the battlefield. The sacred
writings introduce us to Nimrod, the first mighty hunter before the
Lord, and tell us that Ishmael, in the solitudes of Arabia, became a
skilful bowman ; and that David, when yet young, was not afraid to
join in combat with the lion or the bear. Greek mythology teems
with hunting exploits ; Hercules overthrows the Nemaean lion, the
Erymanthean boar and the hydra of Lerna ; Diana descends to the
earth and pursues the stag ; TEsculapius, Nestor, Theseus, Ulysses
and Achilles are all followers of the chase. Aristotle, the philosopher,
advises young men to apply themselves early to it ; and Plato finds
in it something divine. Horace exalts it as a preparative exercise
for the path of glory, and several of the heroes of Homer are its ardent
votaries. The Romans followed the hunting customs of the Greeks,
and the ancient Britons were hunters before Julius Caesar invaded
our shores. Although the ancient Britons followed hunting, how-
ever, they did not confine themselves solely to its pursuit. They
bred cattle and tilled the ground and, to some extent, indicated the
rudimentary state of a pastoral and agricultural life ; but, in every
social change field sports maintained their place. After the expulsion
of the Danes, and during the brief restoration of the Saxon monarchy,
such sports were still followed ; even Edward the Confessor, who
would join in no other secular amusement, took the greatest delight,
says William of Malmesbury, “ to follow a pack of swift hounds in
pursuit of game, and to cheer them with his voice.” Nor was Edward
the only English sovereign who delighted in the pleasures of the chase.
William the Norman, and his two sons who succeeded him, were pas-
sionately fond of the sport, and greatly circumscribed the liberties of
their subjects in reference to the killing of game. The privilege of
hunting in the royal forests was confined to the king and his favourites ;
and in order that these might be made more extensive, whole villages
were depopulated, places of worship levelled with the ground, and
every means adopted that might give a sufficient extension of space
for the beasts of the chase. King John was especially devoted to
field sports, and went so far as to lay an interdict upon the winged
as well as upon the four-footed creation. These forest laws at length
became so tyrannical and intolerable that our ancestors became almost
as anxious for their reformation as they were for the relaxation
of the feudal system, and they wrung from the king the Charta
de Foresta with as much insistence as they wrung from him Magna
Charta. Edward III was so enamoured of the exercise that evep
.RECIPES FOR COOKING GAME
729
during liis absence at the wars in France he took with him sixty couples
of stag-hounds and as many hare-hounds, and every day amused
himself either with hunting or hawking. Great in wisdom as the
Scotch Solomon, James VI of Scotland and I of England, conceived
himself to be, he was much addicted to the amusements of hunting,
hawking and shooting. From his days down to the present, field-sports
have continued to hold their high reputation, not only for the promo-
tion of health, but also for the development of that manliness of
character which enters so largely into the composition of the British
race.
The late Duke of Grafton when hunting was, on one occasion, thrown
into a ditch. A young curate, engaged in the same chase, cried out,
“ Lie still, my lord ! ” leapt over him, and pursued his sport. Such
an apparent want of feeling might be expected to have been resented
by the duke ; but not so. On his being helped up by his attendant,
he said, “ That man shall have the first good living that falls to my
disposal ; had he stopped to have given me his sympathy, I never
would have given him anything.” Such was the manly sentiment
of the duke, who delighted in the manifestation of a spirit as ardent
as his own in sport, and superior to the baseness of an assumed sorrow.
That Hunting has in many instances been carried to an excess is well-known.
The match given by the Prince Esterhazy, Regent of Hungary, on the
signing of the treaty of peace with France, is not the least extra-
ordinary instance upon record. On that occasion there w'ere killed
160 deer, 100 wild boars, 300 hares and 80 foxes ; this was the achieve-
ment of one day. Enormous, however, as this slaughter may appear,
it is greatly inferior to that made by the contemporary King of Naples
on a hunting expedition. That sovereign had a larger extent of ground
at his command and a longer period for the exercise of his talents ;
consequently his sport, if it can be so called, was proportionably
greater. It was pursued during his journey to Vienna, in Austria,
Bohemia and Moravia ; he killed 5 bears, 1,820 boars, 1,950 deer,
1,145 does, 1,625 roebucks, 11,121 rabbits, 13 wolves, 17 badgers,
16,354 hares and 354 foxes ; of birds, during the same expedition,
he killed 15,350 pheasants and 12,335 partridges. Such prodigious
destruction can hardly be called sport ; it resembles more the indis-
criminate slaughter of a battlefield, where the scientific engines of
civilized warfare are brought to bear upon defenceless savages.
Deer and Hares may be considered to be the only four-footed animals
now hunted in Britain for the table ; and even these are not followed
with the same ardour as they were in bygone days. Still, there is no
country in the world where the sport of hunting on horseback is carried
on to such an extent as in Great Britain, and where the pleasures of
the chase are so well understood and conducted on such purely scientific
principles. The fox, of all “ the beasts of the field,” is now considered
to afford the best sport. For this, it is infinitely superior to the stag ;
73°
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
for the real sportsman can only enjoy that chase when the deer is
sought for and found like other game, which are pursued with hounds.
In the case of finding an outlying fallow-deer, which is unharboured
in this manner, great sport is frequently obtained, but this is now
rarely to be met with in Britain. Hare-hunting is followed in many
parts of this and the sister island. Although it is less dangerous and
exciting than fox-hunting, it has great charms for those who do not
care for the hard riding which the other requires.
The Art of taking or killing Birds is called “ fowling,” and is either
practised as an amusement by persons of rank or property, or for a
livelihood by persons who use nets and other apparatus. When
practised as an amusement, it principally consists in killing them with
a light firearm called a “ fowling-piece,” and the sport is secured to
those who pursue it by the game laws. The other means by which
birds are taken consists in imitating their voices, or leading them, by
other artifices, into situations where they become entrapped by nets,
bird-lime or other methods. For taking large numbers of birds, the pipe
or call is the most common means employed ; and this is done dxiring
the months of September and October. We will here give a brief
description of the modus operandi pursued in this sport. A thin wood
is usually the spot chosen, and a cabin is erected under a tree at a little
distance from the others ; only such branches are left on the tree as
are necessary for the placing of the bird-lime, with which they are
covered. Around the cabin are placed avenues with twisted perches,
also covered with bird-lime. Having thus prepared all that is neces-
sary, the bird-catcher places himself in the cabin and, sunrise and
sunset, imitates the cry of a small bird calling the others to its assist-
ance. Supposing that the cry of the owl is imitated, different kinds
of birds will immediately flock together at the cry of their common
enemy when, at every instant, they will be seen falling to the ground,
their wings being of no use to them, from their having come in contact
with the bird-lime. The cries of those which are thus situated now
attract others, and large numbers are thus taken in a short space of
time.
It is only during the night, and by counterfeiting the squeak of a
mouse, that owls themselves can be taken. Larks and other birds
and water-fowl are sometimes taken by nets ; but to give a full
description of the manner in which this is done would occupy too
much space.
Feathered game have from time immemorial gratified the palate
of man. With the exception of birds of prey and some other species,
the Israelites by the Mosaic code were permitted to eat them; the
Egyptians made offerings to their priests of their most delicate birds.
The ancient Greeks commenced their repast with little roasted birds p-
and feathered game, amongst the Romans, was served as the second
course. Indeed, several of the ancient gourmets of the ” imperial
RECIPES FOR COOKING GAME
73i
city ” were so fond of game that they brought themselves to ruin by
eating flamingoes and pheasants. “Some modern nations, the French
amongst others,” says Monsieur Soyer, “ formerly ate the heron
crane, crow, stork, swan, cormorant and bittern.” The first three
especially were highly esteemed ; and Laillevant, cook of Charles VII,
teaches us how to prepare these meagre, tough birds. “ Belon” says
that in spite of its revolting taste when unaccustomed to it, the bittern
is, however, among the delicious treats of the French. This writer
also asserts that a falcon or vulture, either roasted or boiled, is excel-
lent eating, and that if one of these birds happened to kill itself in
flying after game, the falconer instantly cooked it. Lebaut calls the
heron” a royal viand.”
The Heron was hunted by the Hawk, and the sport of hawking is usually
placed at the head of those amusements that can only be practised
in the country. This precedency it probably obtained from its being
a pastime so generally followed by the nobility, not in Great Britain
only, but likewise on the Continent. In former times, persons of high
rank rarely appeared in public without their dogs and their hawks ;
the latter they carried with them when they journeyed from one
country to another, and sometimes even took them to battle with
them, and would not part with them when taken prisoners, even to
obtain their own liberty. Such birds were esteemed as the ensigns
of nobility, and no action was reckoned more dishonourable in a man
of rank than that of giving up his hawk.
We have already alluded to the hunting propensities of our own
Edward III, and we may also allude to his being equally devoted to
hawking. According to Froissart, when this sovereign invaded
France, he took with him thirty falconers on horseback, who had
charge of his hawks, and every day, as his royal fancy inclined him,
he either hunted, or went to the river for the purpose of hawking.
As the inevitable Result of Social Progress is, at least, to limit, if not
entirely to suppress, such sports as we have been treating of, much
of the romance of the country life has passed away. This is more
especially the case with falconry, which had its origin about the middle
of the fourth century, although lately attempts have been made with
some degree of success to institute a revival of the “ gentle art ” of hawk-
ing. J ulius Firmicus, who lived about that time, is, so far as we can find
the first Latin author who speaks of falconers, and of the art of teaching-
one species of birds to fly after and catch others. The occupation of
these functionaries has now all but ceased. New and nobler efforts
characterize the aims of mankind in the development of their civiliza-
tion, and field sports have, to a large extent^ been superseded by other
exercises ; it may be less healthful and invigorating, but is certainly
more elegant, intellectual and humanizing.
The Wild Birds, of which we have now to speak, are protected by the
law, and may only be killed or sold during some months of the year.
732
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
In a country so thickly populated as England they would otherwise
soon be exterminated. It is, however, more as a matter of custom
than as a matter of fact, that we speak of all game as wild, for thou-
sands of birds are bred, like barn-door fowls, and turned loose for sport
in the autumn.
Season for Game. — Between March 1 5 and August 1 is the worst time
for game, for since 1872 a ^5 penalty has been exacted from any person
who shall kill or sell any one of a scheduled list of birds, of which
these have most to do with the housekeeper — coot, dotterel, mallard,
moorhen, plover, quail, snipe, woodcock, swan, teal, widgeon, wild
duck, wheatear. They may be sold, however, if they are proved to
come from outside the limits of the United Kingdom ; and a good deal
of foreign game is sold to those who cannot content themselves during
those months without a game course to dinner. Partridges and
prairie hens come to us from America, Russia and Norway, and some
of the Colonies supply us with game “ out of season ” ; there is also
a large importation of quails from Egypt.
To Keep Game. — All water birds should be eaten as fresh as possible,
because their flesh is oily and soon becomes rank. Most game is kept
until putrefaction has commenced, it being thought that the flavour
is thereby developed. The time that it may be kept depends upon
(1 ) the taste of the persons who are to eat it ; (2) the weather ; (3) the
age of the bird. Taking all these together, it is impossible to lay down
any precise rules. In damp, muggy weather, even if the thermometer
is not very high, game will keep a very little time, but in clear, windy
weather, even if it is not very cold, it will keep for many days. It
should always be kept in the fur or feathers, and should not be drawn,
and should be hung up in a current of air. It may sometimes be
necessary to pluck, truss and half cook it, in which state it will keep
a day or two longer.
Old birds may always be kept longer than young ones, so that it is
well, in case of having a good deal of game, to cook the old on one day
and the young on another. Old birds also need longer cooking.
To Choose Game. — At the beginning of the season it is easy to distin-
guish between old and young, but towards the end of the year the
distinctions become obliterated. Besides the smoothness of the claws
and the small lip cleft of a young hare, the ear is tender and can be
easily torn. This sign, however, is not infallible if the ear is torn by the
poulterer, who, by long practice, can always tear it very readily. The
short, stumpy neck and long joints of a young rabbit or hare are a
better guide, and a small bony knob can be felt near the foot of a
leveret, which is absent in a full-grown hare. Partridges, at the
beginning of the season, can always be distinguished by the shape of
the long feathers in the wing ; in an old bird they are round at the
end, like the letter U ; in a young one they are pointed, like a V.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON GAME
733
The red-legged French partridges are rather larger and cheaper than
the English, but they are not considered so good. The size of the
spur, the smoothness of the legs and the tenderness of the pinion are
the best guides in choosing a pheasant ; and, indeed, these always are
the points to observe in all birds, so far as their age is concerned.
If they are in good condition the breast is thick and hard ; if lean,
the breast feels thin and soft. The feet generally tell if a bird is fresh.
They should be supple and moist, especially in water birds, but they
soon become stiff and dry after the bird is dead.
Game is less fat than poultry or butcher’s meat, and is generally
thought to be very nourishing. It is also easy of digestion, and is
valued in the sick room as well as on the table of the epicure. This
does not apply to wild fowrl, which have close, firm, and rather oily
flesh, and are, therefore, unsuitable for delicate persons.
A number of small birds spoken of in this chapter do not, stricty
speaking, come within the limits of either game, wild fowl or poultry.
They are eaten as articles of luxury to no great amount, and are in-
cluded here because they often replace game on the dinner table.
Table Showing Relative Value of Poultry and Game.
Giving the actual cost of the eatable portion of all, after deducting Loss
in Weight from Cooking, Bone, Skin and Waste.
Much time and trouble has been spent in preparing the following
table, all the Poultry and Game having been specially cooked
and tested. It will surprise many to see the result, which shows how
very costly most of the small birds are, reckoning their price per lb.,
instead of the usual way at so much each, or per brace.
Name of Bird.
How
usually
Cooked.
Weight
before
Cooking.
Weight when
Cooked, with
bone and
waste
deducted.
Loss per
lb. by
Cooking,
bone and
waste.
Average
cost per
lb.
Cost per
lb. with-
out bone
and
waste.
lb. oz.
lb. oz.
OZ.
S.
d.
s. d.
Chicken
Boiled
2 4
I
4
7
1
O
1 9i
Duck
Roasted
3 o
1 8
8
1
O
2 0
Fowl
4
O
2 4
7
O IO 1
1 61
Goose
io 6
5
3
8
0 9
1 6
Grouse
o 14
0 IO
4i
2 O
2 9}
Hare
4 0
2 12
5
I
0
1 5i
Partridge ....
O 14
0 8
7
1 8
2 II;V
Pheasant ....
2
6
I
3
8
I 2
2 4
Pigeon
0 5
O 2.V
8
2
0
4 0
Plover
0 7
O 4
6}
i 6
2 5i
Rabbit
Boiled
3 0
O II
7
0 8
I 2i
Snipe
Roasted
0 3
O I J
8
2
6
5 0
T urkey
,,
IO
O
5 10
7
O II
1 7*
Venison ....
13 8
9
4
5
I
3
I IO
Wild Duck . . .
..
2 0
I
I
1\
I
O
I lot
Woodcock ....
”
0 8
0 4
8
3 0
6 0
Note. — The weights given in the third column are those of poultry
and game, after being drawn and trussed for cooking.
734
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Table Giving Weight of Bone, Skin and Waste and Loss by Cooking in
Poultry and Game.
Name of Bird.
Weight
when
Bought.
Weight of
bone, skin
and waste.
Loss by
Cooking.
Total Loss
by Cooking,
bone and
waste.
Weight of
eatable
matter.
lb. oz.
lb. oz.
lb. OZ.
lb. oz.
lb. oz.
Duck
3 o
I
O
0 8
1 8
1 8
Fowl
4 o
I
O
0 12
I 12
2 4
Goose
io 6
2 15
2 4
5
3
5 3
Grouse
o 14
O 2
0 2
0 4
0 IO
Hare
4 0
0 9
0 11
1 4
2 12
Partridge ....
O 14
0 3i
O 2$
0 6
0 8
Pheasant ....
2 6
Oil
0 8
1 3
1 3
Pigeon
O 5
0
I
0 I *
O 2\
0 2 \
Rabbit
3 0
0 II
0 4
I
O
2 0
Turkey
IO O
3 0
i 6
4 6
5 10
Woodcock ....
0 8
O 2j
0 1 %
0 4
0 4
RECIPES FOR COOKING
GAME
CHAPTER XXV
1278. — BLACKBIRD PIE. (Fr.— Pate de Merle.)
Ingredients. — Blackbirds, rump steak, veal forcemeat ( see “ Force-
meats ”), hard-boiled eggs, good stock, salt and pepper, paste.
Method. — Pick and draw the birds, and stuff them with veal force-
meat. Line the bottom and sides of a piedish with rather thin slices
of steak, put in the birds cut in halves, season them with salt and pepper
and intersperse sections or slices of hard-boiled eggs. Half fill the dish
with good stock, cover with paste ( see “ Veal and Ham Pie ”), and
bake in a moderately hot oven. Add more stock before serving.
Time. — To bake the pie, from if to if hours, according to size.
Average Cost, uncertain, blackbirds being seldom sold. Seasonable from
November to the end of January.
1279. — BLACK COCK, FILLETS OF, A LA FINAN-
CIERS. (Fr.— Filets de Coq de Bruyere
a la Finangiere.)
Ingredients. — 2 black cocks, 3 slices of bacon, \ a pint of brown sauce
( see Sauces), f- of a pint of stock, 1 glass of sherry or Madeira, 12 button
mushrooms, 1 medium-sized onion, 1 small carrot, f a turnip, salt and
pepper.
Method. — Cut the birds into neat fillets, slice the vegetables, place
them in a saute-pan with the stock, add the slices of bacon, lay the
fillets on the top of them, cover closely with a well-buttered paper,
and cook gently for about 30 minutes. Make the brown sauce as
directed, add to it the mushrooms (fresh ones must be previously
fried in a little butter), and the wine, season to taste, and keep hot until
required. When the fillets are done', arrange them on a hot dish,
strain the sauce over, and garnish with the mushrooms, and, if liked,
the bacon cut into dice and grouped round the base.
Time. — From 30 to 35 minutes. Average Cost, from 3s. 6d. to 4s. 6d. per
brace. Seasonable from the middle of August to the end of November.
735
736 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1280.— BLACK COCK, GRILLED. (Fr.— Coq de
Bruyere Grille.)
Ingredients. — 1 black cock, a little warm butter, \ a teaspoonful of
lemon-juice, a few drops of anchovy essence, \ a pint of brown sauce
{see Sauces, No. 233), salt and pepper.
Method. — Split the bird down the back, cut off the legs at the first
joint, and skewer into as flat a shape as possible. Brush over with
warm butter, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and grill over or in front
of a clear fire from 25 to 30 minutes. The bird should be turned
frequently, and occasionally brushed over with butter during the
process of cooking. Make the sauce as directed, add to it the lemon-
juice and anchovy-essence, season to taste, strain and serve in a sauce-
boat. Fried potato chips or straws are frequently served with this
dish.
Time. — From 25 to 30 minutes. Average Cost 3s. 6d.t o 4s. 6d. per brace.
Seasonable from the middle of August to the end of November.
Black-cock (Fr. coq de bruyere) — The name given to the male of the black grouse a species
of Rasorial birds included in the Tetraonidae or grouse famly. The Black-cock frequents the
moors of Scotland, and is also found on the Alps and Apennines, and in Norway and Russia. The
male, about the size of the common hen, weighs some 4 lb., the female about 2 lb. ; the eggs of
the latter are of yellowish-white colour spotted with brown. The flesh of the Black-cock is highly
esteemed. Large numbers of these birds are imported from Norway, but although larger in size than
the Scotch bird, their flavour is not so delicate. The plumage of the male bird is a fine glossy
black, whence its name, with white on its lower wing-coverts. The four outer feathers of the tail
on each side are curved outwards at their tips, thus giving to the tail a double-hooked or lyre-shaped
appearance. The colour of the females is brown, and the tail straight. Both sexes are feathered
on the shanks. Until they are about half-grown the males are scarcely distinguishable from the
females, when the black feathers begin to appear about the sides and breast. The food of the Black-
cock consists of the tops of the birch and heather and ripe mountain berries, and in the summer
these birds frequently descend to the lower lands to feed upon the corn. The Black-cock is gre-
garious, but in winter the sexes keep in separate flocks and pair in the spring. The Black-cock is
also known locally as the Black-game, Heath-cock, Moor-fowl, or Heath-poult.
1281.— BLACK COCK, ROASTED. (Fr.— Coq de
Bruyere Roti.)
Ingredients. — Black cock, butter, toast, gravy, bread sauce, No.iSo ( see
Sauces and Gravies), fried breadcrumbs.
Method. — Let the birds hang for a few days, for they will be tough
and tasteless, if not well kept. Pluck and draw them, and wipe t' e
insides and outsides with a damp cloth, as washing spoils the
flavour. Cut off the heads, and truss as a roast fowl, cutting
olf the toes, and scalding and peeling the feet. Baste the bird well
with hot butter, and roast it in front of a clear fire, or in a moderate
oven, from 45 to 60 minutes, according to size, basting frequently
with butter during the process. Dish on a slice of buttered toast, and
serve the gravy, bread sauce and breadcrumbs separately.
Time. — From 45 to 66 minutes. Average Cost, 3s. 6d. to 4s. 6d.per brace.
Seasonable from the middle of August to the end of November.
GAME
i. — Cock Widgeon, 2. — Dumb-bird.
6. — Rabbit. 7. — Guinea Fowl,
ii.— Black Game.
,y — Pintail. 5. — French Partridge.
$e. 9. —Lark. 10. — Thrush.
RECIPES FOR COOKING GAME 737
1282. — CAPERCAILZIE, ROASTED. (Fr.— Caper-
cailzie Roti.)
Ingredients. — 1 capercailzie, £ of a lb. of beefsteak, 1 or 2 slices of bacon,
butter, good gravy, bread sauce ( see Sauces and Gravies), fried bread-
crumbs, watercress, salad-oil, salt and pepper.
Method. — Prepare and truss the bird in the same way as a roast
chicken. Put the beefsteak inside the bird ; it greatly improves the
flavour, and may afterwards be used in the preparation of some cold
meat dish. Cover the breast with slices of bacan, and roast in front
of a clear fire or in a moderate oven for about 1 hour, basting frequently.
When f cooked remove the bacon from the breast, dredge lightly with
flour, and baste well to give the bird a nice brown appearance. Serve
on a hot dish garnished with watercress, previously well washed, dried
and seasoned with salt, pepper, and a little salad-oil, and send the
gravy, bread sauce and breadcrumbs to table in sauce-boats.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 4s. 6d. Seasonable from
August 20 to December 20.
The Capercalzie or Wood Grouse (Fr. capcrcalzie ). — This bird, known also as the Cock of the
Wood, was once abundant in the Highlands of Scotland, but became for some time almost or en-
tirely extinct ; efforts have, however, been made to re-introduce it, and with success. The Caper-
calzie is the largest of the European gallinaceous birds, measuring some 3 feet in length, and weigh-
ing from 9 to 15 lb. The female is about one-third the size of the male, and differs considerably
in the colour of her feathers, which are grey, variegated with brownish-black, and striped or spotted
with red or bay-black or white, those of the head and tail being of a ruddy hue. The neck of the
male is grey, the breast green, the wings brown spotted with black, and the tail feathers black with
white spots. The bill is short, with a band of naked scarlet-coloured skin above the eyes. The male
is polygamous and lives apart from the female, except at the pairing season. The nest of the caper-
calzie is built on the ground, and its eggs are of a pale reddish-brown tint, spotted with brown.
The capercalzie is found principally in lofty mountainous regions, and is common in'N. Asia
and in the pine forests of Russia, Sweden and Norway, from whence it is imported during the winter
into England.
1283. — FRENCH GAME PIE. (Pate de Gibier.)
Ingredients. — J of a lb. of lean veal, f- of a lb. of fresh pork, 1 black-
cock, pheasant, partridge, or other game, a slice of bacon, 1 large truffle
or truffle trimmings, aromatic spice, salt, paste.
Method. — Chop the meat (veal and pork) finely, or pass it through a
mincing machine, season it highly with aromatic spice, salt, etc., and
add finely-chopped truffle. Cut the game into neat joints. Line a
pie-dish with the prepared forcemeat ; on this place a, layer of pieces
of game, then a few slices of bacon, and more forcemeat ; continue
to add these until the pie-dish is well filled. Moisten with a gill of
stock or water, cover with a good paste crust, decorate and egg over,
bake in a moderate oven for about hours. Serve hot or cold.
Time. — To bake, about hours. Average Cost, 4s. 6d. to 6s.
1284. — GAME, ANDOUILETTES OF. (Fr.— Andoui-
lettes de Gibier.)
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of finely-chopped cooked game, 2 ozs. of finely-
B B
738
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
chopped cooked ham, 2 ozs. of butter, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, 3
finely-chopped mushrooms, 1 finely-chopped shallot, 1 teaspoonful
of chopped parsley, fried parsley, a pig’s caul, meat glaze, \ a gill of
stock (about), 1 egg, tomato or piquante sauce, lemon-juice, salt and
pepper, nutmeg.
Method. — Heat \ an oz. of butter in a small stewpan, fry the shallot
slightly, stir in the flour, and when lightly browned add the stock
and boil well. Put in the game, ham, mushrooms, parsley, the yolk
of the egg, a few drops of lemon-juice, a pinch of nutmeg, salt and
pepper to taste, stir over the fire until well mixed and thoroughly hot,
then spread on a plate to cool. Brush the inside of 8 or 9 oval paper
cases with butter, and fry sufficient parsley to form little beds for each
case. Mould the game preparation into oval or cork-shaped pieces of
suitable size, enclose them in pieces of caul, previously washed and
well-dried, and seal the ends with a little white of egg. Heat the re-
maining 1} ozs. of butter in a saute-pan, fry the andouilettes until
nicely browned, then brush them over with warm meat glaze, and
place them on the top of the fried parsley in the paper cases. Arrange
neatly in an entree dish, and serve the sauce in a sauce-boat.
Time. — About 1 hour altogether. Average Cost is gd. Sufficient for 5
or 6 persons.
1285. — GAME CUTLETS. (See Pheasant Cutlets.)
1286. — GAME, GARNISH FOR.
The usual garnish for roast game consists of watercress and crisply
fried potatoes, the latter being usually stamped out into small thin
slices, or cut into julienne strips. Mushrooms, truffles and many other
ingredients are used to garnish a salmi of game. See “ Wild Duck,
Salmi of.”
1:287. — GAME, HASHED. (See Wild Duck, Salmi of.)
1288.— GAME IN ASPIC JELLY. (Fr— Gibier en
Aspic.)
Ingredients. — Cold cooked game, hard-boiled eggs, thin strips of lean
cooked ham, aspic jelly.
Method. — Rinse a plain mould with cold water, cover the bottom with
a thin layer of liquid aspic, and, when set, decorate with stamped-out
pieces of ham and white of egg. Fix the decorations with a little aspic,
and as soon as it has stiffened, add small pieces of game, previously
seasoned and freed from skin and bone. Leave plenty of space to
be filled with jelly, and let the jelly covering one layer of game be-
come quite set before adding another. Let the mould remain on ice,
or in a cool place until wanted, then turn out aqcl serve.
RECIPES FOR COOKING GAME
739
1289. — GAME PIE. (See French Game Pie and Raised
Pie.)
1290. GAME, PUREE OF. (Fr. — Puree de Gibier.)
Ingredients. — Cold game, butter, gravy, cream, salt and pepper.
Method. — Remove the bones, and simmer them in a little water for
at least 1 hour, when gravy is not at hand. Chop the flesh of the bird
finely, pound it in a mortar until smooth, moistening gradually with
a little good gravy and oiled butter, and pass through a wire sieve.
Season to taste, stir in a little cream, turn the preparation into well
buttered scallop shells, make thoroughly hot, then serve.
1291.— GAME, TO KEEP FROM TAINTING.
In cold, frosty weather game may be hung for 2 or 3 weeks in an
ordinary larder without becoming tainted, but when the atmosphere
is warm and damp, great care should be taken to hang it in a well
ventilated place, preferably where there is a current of air. The
feathers are a great protection from flies, but it is advisable to apply
a good sprinkling of pepper, which usually serves to keep away these
pests.
The Red Grouse ( Lagopus Sctiocus), called also the Moor-cock and Gor-cock, is plentiful in the
W(‘C.ho a tnftS °f th! northern counties of England, and also in Wales and the Highlands
of Scotland and appears to be peculiar to the Northern parts of Britain. Its colour is a rich chest-
nut, marked and speckled with black. The red grouse is a wild and timid bird, and lives in flocks
a°°“‘ “ty,ln numb?r\ lts average weight is about 19 oz. ; that of the female is somewhat less.
Its flesh is of an exquisite flavour. The red grouse is subject to the epidemic disease, known as
grouse disease.
1292.— GAME, TO REMOVE TAINT FROM.
As soon as there is the least evidence of taint, remove the feathers
and draw the birds, and wash them in water with plenty of salt and
a little vinegar. If badly tainted, repeat the process 2 or 3 times,
and afterwards linse in fresh water. Dry thoroughly before cooking.
1 he tainted flavour may be still further removed by putting some fresh
powdered charcoal, tied in muslin, inside the crop before cooking,
which must be removed before the birds are served. When charcoal
is not at hand it may easily be made by placing wood in a hot oven
until it is burnt through.
I293- GROUSE PIE. (Fr. — Pate de Coq de Bruyere.)
Ingredients. — 2 grouse, \ lb. of rump steak, \ pint of good stock,
2 or 3 slices of streaky bacon, 2 hard-boiled-eggs, salt and pepper
puff-paste. ’
Method.— Cut the birds into neat joints and remove the lower parts
of the back, which if allowed to remain would impart a bitter flavour
to the pie. Cut the steak into small thin slices, the bacon into narrow
strips, and the eggs into sections or thin slices. Line the bottom of
740
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
a pie-dish with Slices of meat, cover with a layer of grouse, add a few
strips of bacon and slices of egg, and season well with salt and pepper.
Repeat until the materials are used, add stock to f- the depth of the
dish and cover with paste (. see Veal Pie, No. 798 ). The pie must be baked
about i\ hours ; for the first \ hour in a hot oven to make the paste
rise, and afterwards in a lower temperature in order that the birds and
meat may be sufficiently cooked. Meanwhile simmer the necks and
any trimmings of the birds there may be in the remainder of the
stock, strain, season to taste, and pour it into the pie before serving.
When about f baked the pie should be brushed over with yolk of egg.
When a more highly-seasoned dish is desired, a flavouring of parsley,
shallot and mushrooms, all finely-chopped and mixed together, should
be added to the meat.
Time. — To bake, about x \ hours. Average Cost, from 4s. 6d. to 5s.
Seasonable from August 12 to December 10.
Grouse (Fr. coq de bruyhe). — Under this general term are included several species of game birds
called respectively black, red, wood and white grouse. They all form the type of a large family
Tetraonidae, which includes the genus Tctrao, or the grouse. The characteristic mark of the grouse
is a naked band, frequently of a red colour, which takes the place of an eyebrow ; the nostrils are
feathered, the bill is short and broad, the wings rounded, the tarsi feathered and the toes long. Grouse
live in families in forests, moors and barren mountainous regions, feeding on the buds and berries
. of mountain trees and the tips of heather. The male birds are polygamous. Grouse are much
, esteemed as game birds. They are subject to “ grouse disease,” to which large numbers fall victims
at particular seasons. It is of an epidemic and febrile character, and in some cases takes the form
, of acute inflammation of the respiratory mucous membrane.
1294. — GROUSE, ROASTED. (Fr. — Coq de Bruyere
Roti.)
Ingredients. — A brace of grouse, 2 slices of toast, butter, good brown
■gravy, bread sauce, No. 180 ( see Gravies and Sauces), fried bread-
. crumbs, bacon.
Method. — Let the birds hang in a cool dry place for 3 or 4 days. When
ready for use, pluck, draw, and truss them in the same manner as roast
chicken. Tie over each breast a thin slice of bacon, and roast before
;a clear fire from 30 to 35 minutes, basting frequently with butter.
When nearly done remove the bacon, dredge with flour, and baste well to
give the birds a nice brown appearance. Toast the bread lightly, and
when the birds are about f cooked, put it into the dripping-tin to catch
the gravy that drops from them. Dish on the toast, and serve the
gravy, bread sauce and bread crumbs separately.
Time. — From 40 to 45 minutes. Average Cost, from 4s. the brace.
Seasonable from August 12 to December 10.
The Ruffled Grouse. — This bird is a native of North America, and is so named from the curious
velvet-black tufts of feathers on its shoulders. The plumage of the back is a rich chestnut, and its
tail is grey, barred with black.
The Pinnated Grouse, also called the Prairie Hen, frequents the open desert plains of North
America. The male has two winged-like appendages on the neck, covering two loose orange-coloured
sacs which the bird can inflate at pleasure. Its plumage is brovyn, marked with black and white.
The Sand Grouse, (Pterocles bicinctus), is chiefly an inhabitant of the warm sandy regions of
Africa and Central Asia. It is longer in the legs than the ordinary grouse, and the tarsi are covered
with feathers, the toes are short and connected at the base by a membrane. The wings and tail
are pointed. The colour of the sand grouse is of a sandy hue, whence its name, resembling the
sands of the desert where it dwells. A vast flock of these birds in 1863 and again in 1888, crossed
the North Sea and visited Europe, settling in Britain and the Faroe Islands.
RECIPES FOR COOKING GAME
741
1295. — LANDRAIL, OR CORN-CRAKE, ROASTED.
Ingredients. — 3 or 4 landrail, butter, fried breadcrumbs.
Method. — Pluck and draw the birds, wipe them inside and out with a
damp cloth, and truss them in the following manner : Bring the head
round under the wing, and the thighs close to the sides ; pass a skewer
through them and the body, and keep the legs straight. Roast the
birds before a clear fire, keep them well basted, and serve with fried
breadcrumbs, with a tureen of brown gravy. If preferred, bread
sauce may also be sent to table with them.
Time. — 12 to 20 minutes. Average Cost, uncertain, being seldom sold.
Sufficient for a dish. Seasonable from August 12 to the middle of
September.
The Landrail or Corn-crake (Fr. tale de genet). — This bird, Cr** pratcnsis , belongs to the family
Rallidae , or the rails, and is of a reddish-brown colour, marked with black or dark brown. Its
bill is thick and shorter than its head, the wings are short, and the bird flies in a heavy embarrassed
manner. When it alights on the ground it can hardly be sprung a second time, and it runs very
rapidly and depends more on the fleetness of its feet than the strength of its wings. Its singular
harsh cry, crek, crck , is first heard when the grass begins to shelter the bird, and it continues to be
heard until the grass is cut. The bird, however, is seldom seen, for it constantly skulks among
the thickest portion of the herbage, and runs so nimbly through it, doubling and winding in every
direction, that it is very difficult to get near to it. Marshy meadows and corn-fields are the chief
habitat of the landrail, where it feeds principally on worms, slugs and insects, of which it destroys
large numbers. The landrail is a migratory bird, and makes its appearance in England during
April and May, about the same time as the quail, and frequents similar places. It leaves this
island in the autumn, and visits the southern parts of Europe and the African coasts of the
Mediterranean during the winter. The corn-crake is common in Ireland, and while migrating to the
country is also seen in large numbers in the Isle of Anglesea. Its flesh is much esteemed.
1296. — LEVERET, ROASTED. (Fr.— Levraut Roti.)
Ingredients. — 2 leverets, butter, flour.
Method. — Leverets should be trussed in the same manner as a hare,
but they do not require stuffing. Roast them before a clear fire, and
keep them well basted all the time they are cooking. A few minutes
before serving dredge them lightly with flour. Serve with plain
gravy in the dish, and send them to table with red currant jelly.
Time. — From 40 to 50 minutes. Average Cost, about 4s. Seasonable
fiom May to August.
1297. — LEVERET, TO DRESS. ( See Leveret Roasted.))
1298. — ORTOLANS, ROASTED. (Fr. — Ortolans Rotis.)
Ingredients. —Ortolans, toast, bacon, bay-leaves or vine-leaves, butter
for basting, brown gravy, No. 164 (see Gravies), fried breadcrumbs,,
watercress.
Method. — Remove the head, neck and crop, but let the trail remain..
Truss for roasting, brush over with warm butter, cover the breast of
each bird with a vine-leaf or bay-leaf, and tie over them thin slices,
of bacon. Attach them to a long steel skewer, running it through the
body of each bird, and roast them in front of a quick fire for about 10
minutes. Baste the birds almost continuously with hot butter, and put
742
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
the toast under them to catch the drippings from the trail. When
cooked, remove the skewers and strings, but, if liked, the bacon may
remain and be brushed over with warm glaze. Serve the birds on the
toast, garnish with watercress, and send the gravy and breadcrumbs
to table separately.
Time. — 20 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. each. Seasonable from
March to May.
1299. -PARTRIDGE, BROILED. (Fr — Perdreaux
Grilles.)
Ingredients. — Partridges, salt and cayenne to taste, a small piece of
butter, brown gravy or mushroom sauce.
Method. — Pluck, draw and cut the patridges in half, and wipe the
insides thoroughly with a damp cloth. Season the birds with salt and
cayenne, broil them over a very clear fire, and dish them on a hot dish ;
rub a small piece of butter over each half, and send them to table with
brown gravy or mushroom sauce.
Time. — From 20 to 25 minutes. Average Cost, from 3s. 6d. a brace.
Seasonable from September 1 to February 12.
1300. — PARTRIDGE, ESCALOPES OF. (Fr.— Es-
calopes de Perdreaux.)
Ingredients. — 1 partridge, 2 slices of bacon, f of a pint of brown sauce
(see Sauces), \ a pint of stock, 1 small onion, 1 carrot, \ a turnip, a
bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf). For the farce or stuffing:
4 ozs. of finely-chopped cold roast partridge, 2 ozs. of raw ham or bacon
tut into narrow strips, 1 tablespoonful of finely-chopped suet, 1 table-
spoonful of breadcrumbs, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley,
1 raw egg, 1 hard-boiled egg, a good pinch each of nutmeg and powdered
mixed herbs, salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the bird down the back, and remove all the bones.
Mix the minced partridge, suet, breadcrumbs, parsley, herbs and
nutmeg together, season well with salt and pepper, and bind with
the raw egg. Flatten the partridge on the board, season the in-
side with salt and pepper, spread on half the farce, on the top of which
arrange slices of egg and strips of bacon. Season well with salt and
pepper, spread on the remainder of the farce, draw the two sides to-
gether, forming it as much like a roll as possible, and sew securely with
strong cotton. Slice the vegetables, and place them in a stewpan with
the 2 slices of bacon on the top. Wrap the bird in buttered paper, lay
it on the top of the bacon, cover closely, and cook gently for about
I-!- hours. When ready to serve, remove the paper and string and cut
the roll into slices about \ an inch in thickness. Arrange the escalopes
in 2 close rows on a potato border, and strain the hot sauce over.
Variety may be introduced by dishing the escalopes in a circle, and
RECIPES FOR COOKING GAME
743
filling the centre' with a puree of spinach or mushrooms. When more
convenient, veal may be used for the farce instead of cold partridge.
Time. — To cook, about i\ hours. Average Cost, 3s. 6d. to 4s.
Seasonable from September 1 to February 12.
The Partridge (Fr. pcrdrix). — This bird is found in nearly all the temperate countries of
Europe, in North Africa and in certain parts of Asia, and is abundant as a game-bird in England.
It is noted for its instinct in the preservation of its young. An eminent writer and naturalist
says : “ I have seen it often, and once in particular I saw an extraordinary instance of an old
bird’s solicitude to save its brood. As I was hunting with a small pointer, the dog ran on a brood
of very small partridges ; the old bird cried, fluttered, and ran tumbling along just before the dog’s
nose, till she had drawn him to a considerable distance, when she took wing and flew further off,
but not out of the field. On this the dog returned to me, ’near the place where the young ones
lay concealed in the grass, which the old bird no sooner perceived than she flew back to us, settled
just before the dog’s nose again, and by rolling and tumbling about drew off his attention from
her young, and thus preserved her brood a second time. 1 have also seen where a kite has been
hovering over a covey of young partridges the old birds fly up to the bird of prey screaming and
fighting with all their might, to preserve their brood.” Partridges should be chosen young ; if old
they are valueless. The young birds are generally known by their yellow legs and dark-coloured
Dills.
1301. — PARTRIDGE, FILLETS OF, FARCED.
( Fr . — Filets de Perdreaux Farcis.)
Ingredients. — 2 partridges, or the remains of cold roast birds, \ a lb.
of liver farce, No. 398, \ a pint of Espagnole sauce, No. 244 ( see
Sauces), 1 o 7. of butter, egg, breadcrumbs, salt and pepper, puree of
spinach or mushrooms.
Method. — Remove the fillets intact from the breast, bone the legs
and wing, form into a good shape, fry lightly in hot butter, and press
between 2 dishes until cold. Then mask one side with the liver farce
or stuffing, coat both sides carefully with egg and breadcrumbs, and
fry until nicely browned in hot butter or fat. Arrange in a circle on
a border of potato, strain the hot Espagnole sauce over, and serve the
puree of spinach or mushroom in the centre. When cold birds are used,
the preliminary frying and pressing are unnecessary, the farce being
spread on the cold cooked fillets and completed as directed above.
Time. — About 2\ hours altogether, when fresh birds are used. Average
Cost, 4s. Seasonable from September 1 to February 12.
1302. — PARTRIDGES, HASHED. ( See Wild Duck,
Salmi of.)
1303. — PARTRIDGE PIE. (Fr.— Pate de Perdreaux.)
Ingredients. — 2 partridges, J of a lb. of veal cutlet, 2 or 3 slices of
streaky bacon, \ a pint of good stock, 1 oz. of butter, 2 hard-boiled
eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of coarsely-chopped mushrooms, preferably
fresh ones, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 4 of a teaspoonful
of very finely-chopped shallot or onion, salt and pepper, paste.
Method. — Draw, singe, divide the birds into quarters and fry them
until lightly browned in hot butter. Cut the veal into small thin slices,
place them in the bottom of a pie-dish, season well with salt and pepper,
744
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
and lay the partridges on the top interspersed with strips of bacon and
quarters of egg. Sprinkle on the mushrooms, parsley and onion,
season well with salt and pepper, add stock to f- the depth of the dish,
and cover with paste ( see Veal Pie, No. 798). The pie will bake
in about hours ; it should first be put into a hot oven to make the
pastry rise, and afterwards baked more slowly. Several folds of well-
greased paper laid on the top of the pie will prevent the crust becoming
too brown, and a glazed appearance may be given to it by brushing
it over with yolk of egg when f- baked. The remainder of the stock
should be warmed and poured into the pie before serving.
Time. — To bake, from 14 to \\ hours. Average Cost, 5s. to 6s. Season-
able from September 1 to February 12.
1304. — PARTRIDGE, ROASTED. (Fr.— Perdreau
Roti.)
Ingredients. — Partridge, brown gravy, bread sauce ( see Gravies and
Sauces, No 180), fried breadcrumbs, slice of toast, butter for basting,
1 slice of bacon.
Method. -Pluck, draw, and truss in the same manner as a roast
chicken. Cover the breast with a slice of fat bacon, and roast before
a clear fire for about 30 minutes, basting frequently with hot butter.
A few minutes before serving remove the bacon, dredge lightly with
flour, and baste well to give the bird a nice pale brown appearance.
Dish on the toast, and serve the gravy, breadcrumbs, and bread sauce
separately.
Time. — To roast, about 30 minutes. Average Cost, 3s. 6d. to 4s. 6d
the brace. Seasonable from September 1 to February 12.
1305. — PHEASANT, BOILED. (Fr.— Faisan Bouilli.)
Ingredients. — 1 pheasant, 1 pint of oyster sauce, No. 310 ( see Sauces)
For the forcemeat : 12 sauce oysters, 2 tablespoonfuls of breadcrumbs,
1 tablespoonful of finely-chopped suet, 4 of a teaspoonful of finely-
chopped parsley, nutmeg, cayenne and salt to taste, sufficient raw egg
to bind.
Method. — Beard the oysters, strain the liquor, and add both to the
dry ingredients with as much of the egg as is necessary to moisten the
whole. Truss the bird in the same manner as a boiled fowl, and stuff
the breast with the oyster forcemeat. Wrap it in a well-buttered
paper, put it into boiling stock or water, to which must be added, when
it re-boils, 1 onion, 1 carrot, \ a small turnip, and a bouquet-garni
(parsley, thyme, bay-leaf). Simmer gently from 40 to 60 minutes,
according to size, then remove the trussing strings, and serve on a hot
dish with a little of the oyster sauce poured over, and the remainder
sent to table in a sauce-boat. If preferred, a puree of chestnuts may
RECIPES FOR COOKING GAME
745
be substituted for the oyster forcemeat, or the bird may be dressed
without forcemeat, and served with oyster or celery sauce.
Time. — From 40 to 60 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. to 4s. each.
Seasonable from October 1 to February 12.
The Pheasant (Fr. faisan). — According to the classical legend, this handsome bird was discovered
by theArgonauts on the banks of the Phasis, near to Mount Ararat, in their expedition to Colchis.
It is, however, common to all the southern parts of the European continent, and various species
are also found in Southern Asia, the Eastern Archipelago, China, Tibet, Burma, India and ]apan.
The pheasant has long been naturalized in the warmer and more wooded counties of England Al-
though it has been domesticated, this is not easily accomplished, nor is its flesh so palatable as
when in the wild state. Respecting the flavour of the pheasant M. Ude the celebrated gastrono-
mist, says : “ It is not often that pheasants are met with, possessing that exquisite taste which
is acquired only by long keeping, as the damp of this climate prevents their being kept as long as
they are in other climates. The hens in general are the more delicate. The cocks show their age
by their spurs. They are only fit to be eaten when the blood begins to run from the bill, which
is commonly six days or a week after they have been killed. The flesh is white, tender, and has a
good flavour, if you keep it long enough ; if not, it is not much different from that of the com-
mon fowl or hen.”
1306. — PHEASANT, BROILED. (Fr— Faisan Grille.)
Ingredients. — 1 pheasant, butter, cayenne, salt, piquante, mushroom,
Madeira (No. 255), or other suitable game sauce ( see Sauces).
Method. — The bird, if small, may be cut down the back, and flattened
and cooked like a spatch-cock of chicken ; if large, it is better divided
into joints. In either case the whole of it must be brushed over with
warm butter, and seasoned with salt and a very little cayenne, before
grilling. Prepare one of the above-named sauces, strain, return to the
stewpan, and keep hot until required. Broil the bird over a clear
fire from 15 to 20 minutes, turning occasionally, and brushing over
frequently with warm butter. Serve as hot as possible, and send the
sauce to table in a sauce-boat.
Time. — To grill, from 25 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, 3s. to 4s. 6d.
each. Seasonable from October 1 to February 12.
1307. —PHEASANT, BROILED. ( Fr . — Faisan Grille.)
(Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 1 pheasant, butter, egg, breadcrumbs, salt, cayenne,
piquante, mushroom, Madeira(No.2 5 5), or other suitable sauce (see Sauces).
Method. — Divide the bird into neat joints, season with salt and a little
cayenne, fry lightly in hot butter, and press between 2 dishes until
cold. Then coat carefully with egg and breadcrumbs, and broil over
a clear fire. As soon as the crumbs are set, brush over with warm
butter, and repeat at frequent intervals during the process of grilling.
Arrange in a pyramidal form on a hot dish, and serve the sauce in a
sauceboat.
Time. — To grill, from 15 to 20 minutes. Average Cost, 3s. to 4s. 6d.
each. Seasonable from October 1 to February 12.
746 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1308. — PHEASANT, CROQUETTES OF. (Fr.— Cro-
quettes de Faisan.)
Ingredients. — 4 tablespoonfuls of finely-chopped cooked pheasant, \ of
a pint of thick brown sauce ( see Sauces), 2 eggs, breadcrumbs, salt and
pepper.
Method. — Make the sauce as directed, add the minced pheasant,
the yolk of 1 egg, salt and pepper, and stir briskly over the fire until
the mixture thickens, then turn on to a plate. When cold, form into
cork-shaped croquettes, coat with egg and breadcrumbs, and fry until
nicely browned in hot fat. Drain well, pile on a hot dish covered with
a folded serviette or dish-paper, garnish with crisply-fried parsley,
and serve.
Time. — Altogether, about 2 hours. Average Cost, 6d., exclusive of the
pheasant. Seasonable from October 1 to February 12.
1309. — PHEASANT, CUTLETS OF. (Fr. — Cotelettes de
Faisan.)
Ingredients. — 1 large pheasant, 1 egg, breadcrumbs, butter or frying-
fat, \ a pint of Espagnole sauce, No. 244, salt and pepper.
Method. — Divide the birds into neat joints, and remove the bones,
keeping the flesh as intact as possible. Season, flatten, and trim each
piece of pheasant, fold the skin under, and form them into a good shape.
Coat first with egg, and afterwards with breadcrumbs seasoned with
salt and pepper, fry gently in hot fat or butter until sufficiently cooked
and well browned, then drain well. Insert a small bone in each cutlet,
put on a frill, and serve with the sauce poured round.
Time. — To fry the cutlets, about 10 minutes. Average Cost, small
pheasants from 3s. to 4s. 6d. Suflicient for 6 or 7 persons.
Seasonable from October to February.
Thf. Height of Excellence in a Pheasant. — If eaten when fresh the pheasant has no distinct,
flavour. If, however, the bird be kept a proper length of time, distinguishable by a slight smell
and change of colour, it becomes a highly-flavoured dish, occupying a middle distance in delicacy
between chicken and venison. The exact time a pheasant should be “ hung ” is difficult to define,
but the right moment a pheasant should be taken down is instinctively detected by a good cook.
1310. — PHEASANT, ROASTED. ( Fr . — Faisan Roti.)
Ingredients. — 1 pheasant, 4 of a lb. of beefsteak, fried breadcrumbs,
bacon, brown gravy, bread sauce ( see Gravies and Sauces), watercress,
salad-oil, salt and pepper.
Method.— Pluck and draw the bird, truss in the same way as a roast
chicken, but leave the head on. Put the beefsteak inside the pheasant ;
the beefsteak is intended to improve the flavour of the bird and keep
it moist, and not to be eaten with it, but it may afterwards be used
in the preparation of some cold meat dish. Cover the breast with thin
slices of bacon, or lard it with strips of fat bacon, and roast in front
RECIPES FOR COOKING GAME
747
of a clear fire or in a moderate oven from 40 to 50 minutes, accord-
ing to size and age. Baste frequently with butter, and when the
cooking is about f- completed remove the bacon, dredge the breast
lightly with flour, and baste well to give the bird a nice light brown
appearance. Remove the trussing strings, serve on a hot dish,
garnished with watercress previously well washed, dried and seasoned
with salt, pepper, and salad-oil, and send the gravy, bread sauce, and
fried breadcrumbs to table separately.
Time. — From 40 to 50 minutes. Average Cost, 3s. to 4s. 6d. each.
Seasonable from October 1 to February 12.
131 1. —PHEASANT, SALMIS OF. (Fr.— Salmis de
Faisan a la Moderne.)
Ingredients. — 1 pheasant, \ a pint of brown sauce. No. 233 ( see
Sauces), 6 or 8 slices of goose liver, 6 or 8 slices of truffle, 2 or 3 ozs. of
butter 2 finely-chopped shallots, £ of a teaspoonful of finely-chopped
lemon-rind, J of a teaspoonful of thyme, 1 bay-leaf, 1 glass of
Madeira or Marsala wine, salt and pepper.
Method. — Pluck, draw and truss the bird for roasting. Baste it
well with hot butter, roast in a quick oven for 30 minutes, basting fre-
quently, then strain the butter used for basting into a stewpan. Divide
the bird into neat joints, put the breast, wings and legs aside, and
cut the remainder into small pieces. Re-heat the butter in the stewpan,
put in the small pieces of pheasant, add the lemon-rind, shallots, bay-
leaf and thyme, fry well, then drain off the butter, return the
pieces of pheasant to the stewpan. Heat up the brown sauce in a
stewpan, add to it the wine, season to taste, and simmer for 10 minutes,
then put in the pheasant Meanwhile, re-heat the butter, fry the slices
of liver, and drain them well. Arrange the pheasant in a silver or
earthenware casserole, or stewpan, interspersed with slices of liver and
truffle, pour the sauce over, garnish with glazed croutes of fried bread
and serve hot.
Time. — Altogether from to i\ hours. Average Cost, 5s. to 6s. 6d.
Seasonable from October 1 to February 12.
1312. — PLOVERS, ROASTED. (Fr.— Pluviers Rotis.)
Ingredients. — Plovers, a slice of toast and a slice of bacon for each
bird, butter for basting, brown sauce, No. 253 ( see Sauces), 1 glass of
port wine or claret, 2 lemons, watercress.
Method. — Pluck and truss the birds, but do not draw them. Brush
over with warm butter, tie a slice of thin bacon over each breast,
and roast in front of a clear fire from 1 5 to 20 minutes, according to
taste. Hang the birds on the spit feet downwards, and put slices of
toast in the dripping-tin to receive the trail as it drops from the birds.
Keep them well basted with butter, and shortly before serving remove
748
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
the bacon, dredge lightly with flour, and baste well to give the breasts
a light brown appearance. Make the brown sauce as directed, and add
to it the wine and the juice of i lemon. Serve the birds on the
toast, garnish with watercress and quarters of lemon, and send the
sauce to table in a sauce-boat. Oiled butter, made acid with lemon-
juice, frequently accompanies these birds instead of the brown sauce.
Time. — From 15 to 20 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. to 3s. the brace.
Seasonable from the beginning of October to the end of January.
The Plover (Fr. pluvier). — The name applied to various birds belonging to the Grallatores , or
wading birds, found in all parts of the world. The Plover is gregarious, and usually frequents the
marshes and the muddy borders of rivers, where it seeks its food, consisting of aquatic insects and
worms. Some species, however, live on dry sandy shores, and others breed on the mountains.
The plover has a short straight, slender and compressed bid ; its legs are long and slender, with
three toes in front, connected by a short web. It makes its nest on the ground. There are various
species of Plover ; that best known is the Golden Plover, called also the Yellow or Whistling,
Green Plover (Charadrius pluvialis). It is about i foot in length, of a greyish-black colour, and
variegated with yellow spots. The Grey Plover is somewhat larger than the golden species,
is smaller than the woodcock, to which it is inferior in delicacy of flavour. The Dotterel (C. mon-
nellus) frequents the coasts, and is dark brown and is marked with white patches ; its eggs re-
semble those of the golden plover. Previous to dressing, plovers are kept until they have the flavour
of game. Their flesh is esteemed by many, but it is not universally relished.
1313. — PLOVERS, TO DRESS. (See Plovers Roasted.)
1314. — POTTED GAME.
Ingredients. — Cooked game of any kind ; to each lb. allow 2 or 3 ozs.
of butter, salt and pepper, cayenne.
Method. — Free the game from skin and bone, chop it finely, or pass
it 2 or 3 times through a mincing machine. Pound in the mortar until
smooth, moistening gradually with strong game gravy or stock, or,
failing this, clarified butter. Season well with salt, pepper and cayenne,
then rub through a fine sieve. Press into small pots, and cover with
clarified butter.
1315— POTTED PARTRIDGE. ( See Potted Game.)
I3I6. — PTARMIGANS, ROASTED. (Fr. — Pertrix
blanche Roties.)
Ingredients. — Ptarmigans, butter for basting, a slice of bacon for each
bird, fried breadcrumbs, good brown gravy, bread sauce ( see Gravies
and Sauces).
Method. — Let the birds hang in a cool dry place for 3 or 4 days. When
ready for use, pluck, draw and truss them in the same manner as roast
grouse. Tie over each breast a slice of fat bacon, and roast before a
clear fire from 30 to 35 minutes, basting very frequently with butter.
Wuen about f cooked remove the bacon, dredge lightly with flour,
and baste well to give the birds a nice appearance. Dish on
the toast, winch should be previously put into the dripping-tin to
RECIPES FOR COOKING GAME 749
catch the gravy that drops from the birds, and serve the bread sauce,
breadcrumbs and gravy separately.
Time. — From 30 to 35 minutes. Average Cost, from 2s. to 3s. the
brace. Seasonable from September to April.
The Ptarmigan, or White Grouse (Fr. ptarmigan). — The ptarmigan ( Lagopus vulgaris), the
smallest of our English grouse, is characterized by having its legs and tarsi fully feathered. It
derives its name from the circumstance that its ash-grey plumage mottled with black, changes to
white in the winter. Its habitat is the mountainous districts of Scotland and Norway, and it is
also found in Greenland. In weight it averages from 8 oz. to 10 oz. When young the ptarmigan
is much esteemed, and differs but little in flavour from the common grouse. In winter the ptar-
migan flies in flocks and feeds on the wild vegetation of the hills, which imparts to its flesh a
bitter but not an altogether unpalatable taste. It is dark-coloured, and somewhat resembles the
hare in flavour, and is much relished and sought after by some sportsmen.
1317. — QUAILS, ROASTED. ( Fr . — Cailles Roties.)
Ingredients. — Quails, as many vine-leaves, small slices of fat bacon,
and square croutons of buttered toast as there are birds, good brown
gravy ( see Gravies), fried breadcrumbs, watercress, butter for basting.
Method. — Pluck the birds, remove the head, neck and crop, but leave
the trail. Truss the birds for roasting, brush them over with warm
butter, cover each breast with a vine-leaf, and tie a piece of bacon over
the leaf. Attach them to a long steel skewer, running it through the
body of each bird, and either roast or bake from 12 to 15 minutes,
basting frequently with hot butter. When cooked, remove the skewers
and strings, but the bacon and vine-leaves may be served or not as
preferred ; if not removed, the bacon should be brushed over with warm
glaze. Serve the birds on the toast, which should previously be put
into the dripping-tin to catch the trail as it drops from the birds, garnish
with watercress, and send the gravy and breadcrumbs to table in sauce-
boats.
Time. — From 12 to 15 minutes. Average Cost, is. each. Seasonable
from September to February.
1318. — QUAILS, STUFFED. (Fr.— Cailles Farcies.)
Ingredients. — Quails, liver farce No. 398 ( see Forcemeats), Madeira
sauce No. 255 ( see Sauces), finely-chopped truffle, finely-chopped
cooked ham, 2 ozs. of butter, white of egg, pork caul, salt and pepper.
Vegetables for garnish.
Method. — Bone the quails, stuff them with the prepared farce, press
into a good shape, and encircle each one with a band of buttered paper.
Heat the butter in a saute-pan, baste the birds well, and roast them
in a moderate oven from 15 to 20 minutes, basting frequently. Mean-
while, wash the caul in salt and water, dry it well, and cut it into pieces
large enough to contain half a bird. Split the birds in halves with a
hot wet knife, enfold each half in a piece of caul, brush over with white
of egg, and sprinkle one half of them with ham and the other half with
truffle. Re-heat the butter in the saute-pan, replace the birds, cover
jthem with 3, buttered paper, and cook gently in the oven for 10 minutes.
750
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Dish in a close circle on a potato border, alternating the colours, fill
the centre with asparagus points, peas, flageolets, or puree of spinach,
and pour the hot Madeira sauce round. If preferred, the birds, instead
of being sprinkled with ham and truffle, may be simply wrapped in caul,
cooked for io minutes, then brushed over with warm glaze, and served
in paper cases.
Time. — About \ an hour to cook. Average Cost, pd. to is. each. Season-
able, from September to February.
The Quail (Fr. caille). — The quail is found in almost all the countries of Europe, and is widely
distributed in North Africa, India, China and North America. It is a bird of passage, and im-
mense flocks traverse the Mediterranean Sea from Europe to Africa in the autumn, returning again
in the spring, frequently alighting in their passage on many of the islands of the Archipelago which
they almost cover with their vast numbers, and are taken in great quantities. The quail arrives
in Britain in May, and migrates southwards in October. The male arrives first, and appears to cry
for its mate by a peculiar whistling note. The colour of the plumage is brown on the upper parts
of the body, with lighter and darker markings. The under parts are of a yellowish shade. Its
wings are rounded, the tail is short, and the tarsi are destitute of spurs. Its average length is 8
inches. Its eggs are of a light-greenish tint. It is a very pugnacious bird, and in classical
times “ quail fights ” were an amusement of the Greeks and Romans. Among various species are
the Coromandel Quail, the Virginian or American Quail, a larger bird than the European Quail, and
the handsome little Chinese Quail, some 4 inches in length. The flesh of the quail is white and tender
and delicate in flavour.
1319. — RAISED PIE. (Fr. — Pate de Gibier.)
Ingredients. — Game of any kind, equal quantities of finely chopped
veal and pork, veal forcemeat, paste ( see Pork Pie, No. 1 1 16), coarsely
chopped truffle, stock that will jelly when cold (preferably game
stock), egg, salt and pepper.
Method. — Mix the veal and ham together, season liberally with salt
and pepper, and add i or 2 tablespoonfuls of chopped truffle. Divide
the birds into neat joints, and remove all bones except those which are
deeply imbedded in the flesh and difficult to detach. Make and mould
the paste as described in the recipe for Pork Pie, and line the bottom
and sides with veal forcemeat. Put in the prepared game, season each
layer with salt and pepper, and intersperse small pieces of the meat
farce, taking care to leave spaces to be afterwards filled with stock.
Pile the game high in the centre, cover with a thin layer of veal farce,
put on the cover, then follow the directions given for preparing, baking
and finishing Pork Pie.
Note. — See French Game Pie, Grouse Pie, and Partridge Pie.
1320. — RAGOUT OF WILD DUCK.
Follow the directions given for Wild Duck, Salmi of, No. 1340, when
utilising cold remains; otherwise first roast the duck for about 20
minutes ( see Wild Duck, Roasted, No. 1339), cut it into neat joints,
and afterwards proceed as directed.
1321. — REEVES, TO DRESS. ( See Larks, Roasted,
No. 1245, Larks, Stuffed and Roasted, No.
1246, and Wheatears To Dress, No. 1277.)
RECIPES FOR COOKING GAME
75i
1322.— RISSOLETTES OF GAME A L’HORLY.
Ingredients. — For the mixture : 6 tablespoonfuls of any kind of game,
5- of a pint of thick brown sauce ( see Sauces), 1 egg, salt and pepper.
For the batter : 1 egg, 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, 1 tablespoonful of milk,
\ a teaspoonful of salad-oil, salt to taste.
Method. — Heat the sauce in a small stewpan, put in the minced game,
egg and seasoning, stir briskly over the fire until the mixture thickens,
then turn on to a plate to cool. Mix the flour, milk, salt, salad-oil
and yolk of egg smoothly together, put it aside for about \ an hour,
and when ready to use lightly add the white of egg previously whipped
to a stiff froth. Divide the game preparation into pieces about the size
of a large walnut, dip them into the batter, and fry in a deep pan of
hot fat until nicely browned. Drain well, dish in a pyramidal form
on a folded serviette or dish-paper, garnish with crisply-fried parsley,
and serve hot.
Time. — From to 1^ hours. Average Cost, 6d., exclusive of the game.
1323.— ROOK PIE.
Ingredients. — 6 young rooks, f of a lb. of rump steak, I of a lb. of butter,
J a pint of stock, salt and pepper, paste.
Method. — Skin the birds without plucking them, by cutting the skin
near the thighs, and drawing it over the body and head. Draw the
birds in the usual manner, remove the necks and backs, and split the
birds down the breast. Arrange them in a deep pie-dish, cover each
breast with thin strips of steak, season well with salt and pepper,
intersperse small pieces of butter, and add as much stock as will f
fill the dish. Cover with paste ( see Veal Pie), and bake from i-J- to
2 hours, for the first \ hour in a hot oven to make the paste rise,
and afterwards more slowly to allow the birds to become thoroughly
cooked. When the pie is about §- baked, brush it over with yolk of
egg to glaze the crust, and, before serving, pour in, through the hole
on the top, the remainder of the stock.
Time. — To bake, from i f- to 2 hours. Average Cost, uncertain, as they
are seldom sold. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
The Rooks are wild birds, found abundantly in most parts of Britain and Ireland. They live
in communities, and feed on seeds, insects and vermin. Their flesh is tough and coarse-flavoured.
Only the young birds are eaten, generally being shot almost before they take to the wing. The
backbones and adjoining flesh is always removed, as these parts have a strong, bitter taste, which
soon contaminates the rest of the flesh.
1324. — RUFFS, TO DRESS. (See Larks, Roasted,
No. 1245, Larks, Stuffed and Roasted, No.
1246, and Wheatears, To Dress, No. 1277.
752
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1325. — SNIPE, ROASTED. (Fr. — Becassines Roties.)
Ingredients. — Snipe, toast, bacon, good gravy ( see Gravies), water-
cress, butter for basting.
Method. — These birds, like the ortolan, plover and woodcock, are
dressed without being drawn. They are trussed in the same way as
other birds for roasting, but the head is skinned and left on, the long
beak of the bird being passed through the legs and body instead of a
skewer. Brush them over with warm butter, tie a thin slice of fat bacon
over each breast, and hang them on the spit feet downwards. Put
the toast under them to catch the drippings from the trail, baste fre-
quently with butter, and roast them for about 15 minutes, or less if
preferred very much underdone. Dish on the toast, garnish with water-
cress, and serve the gravy in a sauce-boat.
Time. — About 15 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. to 3s. 6d. the brace.
Seasonable from November to February.
The Snipe ( Fr . bccassinc) is a migratory bird, generally distributed over Europe, and met with
abundantly in most parts ot Britain, where it frequents damp and marshy grounds, feeding on insects,
small molluscs, and worms, which form its principal food. In the Hebrides and Orkneys snipes are
plentiful, and are fattest in frosty weather. The snipe, which is a grallatore or wading bird is
characterized by its long slender bill, and the peculiar bleating which it utters in the summer, changing
its note entirely during the breeding season When the female is sitting upon her nest the male bird
will keep on the wing for houis, mounting like a lark, and uttering a shrill piping noise ; then, with a
bleating sound, resembling that of a goat, it will descend with great velocity to the nest, from which
it will not wander far. The eggs of the snipe, four in number, are olive-white, spotted with brown.
The Jack snipe, very similar to the common snipe in appearance, and the smallest of the British
snipes, only visits Britain in winter. The Great or Solitary Snipe is less common than the ordinary
variety, which it resembles in colour, but is of a darker brown. When flying it spreads its tail like
a fan. All the snipes are active cautious birds, and when their nests are menaced will affect lameness
to divert attention.
1326. — TEAL, ROASTED. (Fr. — Sarcelle Rotie.)
Ingredients. — Teal, butter for basting, good brown gravy, Bigarade
sauce No. 226 ( see Gravies and Sauces), watercress, lemons.
Method. — Pluck, draw, and truss the leal for roasting. Brush them
over with hot butter, and roast before a clear fire from 25 to 30 minutes,
basting frequently. Serve on a hot dish, garnish with watercress
and quarters of lemon, and send the sauce to table in a sauce-boat.
Time. — From 25 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, from 2s. each. Season-
able from October to March 15 ; in better condition after the frost has
set in.
1327.— THRUSH, TO ROAST. (Fr.— Grive Rotie.)
Ingredients. — Thrush, butter for basting, gravy, watercress, croutes.
Method. — After trussing the birds, cover each breast with well-buttered
paper, instead of bacon, which would impair the delicate flavour of the
birds. Place them side by side on a skewer, baste well with hot butter
and roast before a clear fire for about 10 minutes, basting almost
continuously with butter. Serve on croutes, garnish with water-
cress, and send the gravy to table separately.
RECIPES FOR COOKING GAME
753
Time. — To roast the birds, about io minutes. Average Cost, uncertain,
thrush being seldom sold. Allow 2 to each person.
1328. — VENISON, BROILED POLISH FASHION.
( Fr . — Escalopes de Venaison a la Polonaise.)
Ingredients. — 8 or 10 slices, J of an inch thick, cut from a leg of venison,
i-j- ozs. of clarified butter, \ a pint of Veloute or Allemande sauce, \
a gill of wine vinegar, 1 tablespoonful of meat glaze or meat extract,
12 juniper berries, salt and pepper.
Method. — Crush the juniper berries, simmer them for 10 or 15 minutes
in the vinegar, then add the meat glaze and sauce, and cook gently
for 15 minutes. When ready to use, strain, return to the stewpan,
season to taste, and stir in an oz. of butter. Flatten the slices
of venison with a cutlet-bat, and trim neatly. Heat the remainder of
the butter in a saute-pan, and fry the slices of venison quickly until
nicely browned on both sides. Arrange them neatly in a hot entree
dish, pour over the prepared sauce and serve.
Time. — To fry, from 10 to 15 minutes. Average Cost, is. 3d. to is. 6d. per
lb. Seasonable frcm September to January, but may be bought from June.
The Deer (Fr. daim). — These elegant and active animals, included under the name of deer, con-
stitute the family Cervidae, the typical genus Cervus, being represented by the stag or red-deer.
The horns or antlers are solid, more or less branched, according to the age of the deer, and are shed
and reproduced annually. Except in the case of the reindeer, the male alone is furnished with
antlers, which are used as defensive and offensive weapons. Particular terms are used to designate
deer according to their age. A stag of the first year is called a calf or hind-calf ; the second year
it is termed a knobber ; the third year a brock , the fourth year a staggard, the fifth year a stag,
and the sixth year a hart. The female is called a calf the first year, the second year a hearse, and
the third year a hind. Deer are found widely distributed over the world, with the exception of
Australia and South Africa ; in the latter continent the antelope, characterized by permanent horns,
takes its place. There are numerous species of deer, as the reindeer, elk, fallow-deer, roebuck,
moose, etc. The flesh of deer is called venison, and is highly esteemed.
1329. — VENISON, CHOPS AND STEAKS OF.
Venison chops are cut from the loin, and a thick slice from the leg
is usually served as a steak. They should be grilled over a clear fire,
and served with a sauce made of equal quantities of oiled butter, red
wine, and dissolved red-currant jelly. See Venison, Broiled Polish
Fashion, and Venison Cutlets.
Venison. — This is the name given to the flesh of some kinds of deer, and is esteemed very deli-
cious. Different species of deer are found in warm as well as cold climates, and are in several
instances invaluable to man. This is especially the case with the Laplander, whose reindeer con-
stitutes a large proportion of his wealth. There —
The reindeer unharness’d in freedom can play,
And safely o’er Odin’s steep precipice stray,
Whilst the wolf to the forest recesses may fly,
And howl to the moon as she glides through the sky.
In Lapland the reindeer is the substitute for the horse, the cow, the goat and the sheep. From its
milk is produced cheese ; from its skin clothing ; from its tendons bowstrings and thread ; from
its horns glue ; from its bones spoons ; and its flesh furnishes food. In the middle ages the deer
formed food for the not over-abstemious monks, represented by Friar Tuck’s larder, in Sir Walter
Scott’s novel, Ivanhoe ; and at a later period it was a deer-stealing adventure that drove the “ in-
genious ” William Shakespeare to London, to become a common player, and the greatest drama-
tist that ever lived. In England we have the stag, an animal of great beauty, and much admired.
He is a native of many parts of Europe, and is supposed to have been originally introduced into
this country from France. About a century back the stag was to be found wild in some of the rough
and mountainous parts of Wales as well as in the forests of Exmoor, in Devonshire, and the woods
on the banks of the Tamar. Herds of deer may still be seen in many English parks and in some
of our forests.
754 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1330.— VENISON CUTLETS. (Fr.— Cotelettes de
Venaison.)
Ingredients. — Best end of the neck of venison, butter, fresh mush-
rooms, to each lb. allow \ of a pint of good brown stock or gravy ( see
Stocks and Gravies), and 1 oz. of butter, salt and pepper.
Method. — Skin and trim the mushrooms, put them into a stewpan
with the butter, gravy, and plenty of seasoning, and stew gently from
35 to 40 minutes, or until tender. Divide the venison into cutlets
about \ inch in thickness, trim the bones at the end, but let the rest of
the fat remain ; flatten and pare the cutlets. Brush over with warm
butter, season with salt and pepper, and grill over or in front of a
clear fire from 20 to 25 minutes, turning occasionally, and brushing
over frequently with hot butter. Place a small pat of fresh butter on
the top of each cutlet, serve as hot as possible, and send the stewed
mushrooms to table separately.
Time. — About 40 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. per lb. Seasonable
from September to January.
The Roebuck (Fr. chevreuil). — The common roe or roebuck ( Cervus capreolus ) is smaller in size
than the fallow deer, and its antlers are smaller, with only three short branches. It is brown in
colour, varied with grey and red tints. The roebuck is very graceful in its movements, and is a
denizen of wooded and mountainous districts.
I33I. — VENISON, HASHED. {Fr.— Capilotade de
Venaison.)
Ingredients. — Remains of roast venison, and to each lb. allow 2 ozs.
of butter, ozs. of flour, 1 glass of port wine, 1 tablespoonful of red
currant jelly.
Method. — Cut the meat into neat slices, break up the bones, put them
with the trimmings of the meat, and any venison gravy there may be,
into a stewpan, cover with cold water, and simmer gently for 1 hour.
When water alone is used, a small onion and a bunch of herbs should be
added. Melt the butter in a stewpan, stir in the flour, and fry until
brown. Add the strained stock, stir until boiling, then put in the meat,
wine, jelly, salt and pepper to taste, cover the stewpan closely, and let
it stand at the side of the stove for about 20 minutes for the meat
to become thoroughly impregnated with the flavour of the sauce, which
must not, however, be allowed to boil. Serve as hot as possible,
garnished with croutons of fried or toasted bread, and hand red currant
jelly separately.
Time. — About ^ hour, after the stock is made. Average Cost, 8d.
to iod., exclusive of the venison. Seasonable from September to
January, but may be bought from June.
RECIPES FOR COOKING GAME 755
The Stag (Fr. cerf). — The male of the red-deer is called the stag or hart, and the female a hwid.
The stag is much larger than the fallow-deer, and his age is indicated by his horns, which are round
instead of palmated, like those of the fallow-deer. During the first year the stag has no horns, but
a short and rough excrescence covered with a thin hairy skin. The following year the horns are
single and straight, and in the third year they have two antlers, three the fourth, four the fifth, and
five the sixth year.
This number is not always constant, for they are sometimes more and frequently are less. After
the sixth year the antlers do not invariably increase ; and though they may amount in number
to six or seven on each side, the animal’s age is estimated rather by the size of the antlers and
the thickness of the branch which sustains them than by their variety. These horns are shed
every year, usually in the spring, and new ones supply their place. When the old horns have fallen
off the new ones do not make their appearance immediately, but the bones of the skull are covered
with a transparent periosteum, or membrane which enwraps the bones of animals. After a short time
the skin begins to swell and to form a sort of tumour. From this presently rising from the head
the antlers shoot forth from side to side ; and in a short time, if the animal is in good condition,
the entire horns are completed. The solidity of the extremities, however, is not perfect until the
horns have arrived at their full growth. Old stags usually shed their horns first, which generally
happens towards the end of February or the beginning of March. Those between five and six
years old shed theirs about the middle or latter end of March ; those still younger in April, and the
youngest of all not until the middle or latter end of May. These rules, which are applicable generally,
are subject to variation, for a severe winter will retard the shedding of the horns. The hind has no
horns, and is less fitted for being hunted than the stag. She takes the utmost care of her fawns
and secretes them in the most obscure thickets, lest they should fall a prey to their numerous
enemies, as the wolf, the dog, the eagle and the falcon. When the hind has young she defends her
offspring with the most resolute bravery. If pursued by the hunter she will fly before the hounds
for half a day and then return to her fawn, whose life she has thus preserved at the hazard of her
own.
c
1332.— VENISON, HAUNCH OF, ROASTED.
(. Fr Quartier de Chevreuil Roti.)
Ingredients. — A haunch of venison, flour, brown sauce or brown gravy
( see Sauce and Gravies), red currant jelly.
Method. — The haunch is the prime part of venison, and its excellence
depends greatly on the relative proportions of fat and lean. An abund-
ance of clear creamy-white fat of close texture may be generally ac-
cepted as an indication of the good quality of the meat. The flesh
of the buck is more highly esteemed than that of the doe. Venison,
like mutton, improves with age, and this can be judged by the condition
of the hoof, which in an old animal is deeply cut and rugged, whereas
that of a young one has a small and smooth cleft. In cold weather
venison should be allowed to hang for about 14 days in a cool, dry
place, but it must be carefully examined every day. The meat round
the haunch bone first becomes tainted; it is therefore advisable to run
a small sharp knife into the flesh ; on being withdrawn, it has an un-
pleasant smell, the effected parts must at once be washed with warm
milk and water, dried thoroughly, and covered thickly with ground
ginger and pepper, which must, however, be washed off before cooking.
If a little of these condiments be sprinkled on the venison in the first
instance, and the meat wiped dry every day, decomposition may be
considerably retarded. When ready for use, saw off the knuckle-bone,
rub well all over with clarified fat or dripping, and enfold in a well-
greased paper. Make a stiff paste of common flour and water, put it
over the joint, cover with another well-greased paper, and tie securely
with string. Roast in front of a clear fire or in a moderate oven from
3 to 4 hours, according to size and baste frequently. Within -J- an hour
of serving remove the paper and paste, dredge lightly with flour, and
756
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
baste well with hot butter until the joint acquires a good brown colour.
Serve as hot as possible, as the fat quickly cools and hardens, and send
the brown sauce or gravy and the red currant jelly to table separately.
The best end of the neck of venison, boned and rolled, makes an ex-
cellent dish, but other parts are not often roasted, the neck and shoulder
being considered better adapted for stews, pies, and pasties.
Average Cost. — -is. 6d. per lb. Seasonable — buck venison from June
to the end of September ; doe venison from October to January.
The Reindeer (Fr. renne). — This species of deer inhabits the northern and Arctic regions, and is
thicker in the body and its legs are proportionately shorter than those of the red-deer. It is distin-
guished from other species by the circumstance that the female as well as the male possesses horns ;
those of the latter are, however, much larger and stronger. In colour the reindeer is of a dusky-
brown hue, with greyish under parts ; these change to lighter tints in the winter. The reindeer
is very hardy, keen of sight and hearing, swift of foot, its pace averaging nine or ten miles an hour,
at which speed it can draw with ease a sledge attached to it with a burden of some 200 lbs. Its
strength and hardiness render the reindeer invaluable to the Laplander, to whom it is the substitute
for the horse, sheep and goat. From its milk cheese is provided ; from its skin clothing ; from its
tendons bowstrings and thread ; from its horns glue ; from its bones various articles of use, and
its flesh furnishes food. Reindeer moss, a lichen which grows extensively in the sterile tracts of
northern and arctic Europe and America, provides the reindeer with its chief supply of food during
the winter season. A variety of the reindeer, the Caribou, inhabits northern An erica, and is
hunted for the sak<#)f its skin and flesh, the layer of fat, called depouille, on the back of the male,
being esteemed a special delicacy.
1333.— VENISON IN A CHAFING-DISH.
Ingredients. — i lb. of venison, the juice of 3 small onions, 1 egg, 1 oz.
of butter, flour, 1 teaspoonful of finely chopped parsley, nutmeg, salt
and pepper.
Method. — Pound the peeled, sliced and blanched onions in a mortar
until reduced to a pulp, place this in muslin, and press out the juice
with the back of a wooden spoon. Remove all skin, fat and gristle from
the meat, chop it finely, and mix with it the onion -juice, parsley, and
a pinch of nutmeg. Stir in the egg, season to taste, form into flat cakes
the size and shape of a fillet, and coat them lightly with flour. Heat
the butter in a chafing-dish, put in the steaks, and fry gently for 10
minutes, turning them once. Place the cover on the chafing-dish,
continue to cook gently for 5 minutes longer, then serve.
Time. — To cook the steaks, about 15 minutes. Average Cost, 2s.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable from June to January.
The Fallow Deer (Fr. daim). — This is the domestic or park-deer, is allied to the stag, but is
smaller in size and differs in the shape of its horns. The colour of the fallow-deer is reddish-brown
with white spots, and white inside the limbs and beneath the tail. Fallow deer are chiefly kept
in parks, and roam in herds under the control of a “ master deer.” The male is termed a buck, the
female a doe, and the young deer fawns. They are readily tamed and become very docile. Theij-
flesh furnishes excellent venison, and a soft leather is manufactured from their skins. From the
shavings of their horns ammonia is prepared, whence the popular name of “ hartshorn.”
1:334. — VENISON, NECK OF, TO ROAST.
Method. — Let the neck remain attached to the shoulder until required
for use, so as to preserve the appearance of both joints. In preparing,
follow directions for Neck of Mutton, To Roast, No. 1054; and cook accord-
ing to instructions given in Venison, Haunch of, Roasted, No. 1333,
RECIPES FOR COOKING GAME
757
1335.— VENISON, SHOULDER
Haunch of, Roasted.
OF. ( See Venison,
Also Venison, Stewed.)
1336. — VENISON STEWED. (Fr. — Ragout de
Venaison.)
Ingredients. — A shoulder of venison well hung and boned, a few thin
slices of mutton fat (preferably off the best end of a neck), J of a pint
ot port, 1 J- pint of stock, \ a teaspoonful of peppercorns, J a teaspoonlul
of whole allspice, salt and pepper, red-currant jelly.
Method. — Pour the wine over the slices of mutton fat, and let them
remain for 2 or 3 hours. Flatten the venison with a cutlet-bat or
rolling-pin, season liberally with salt and pepper, and cover with the
slices of mutton fat. Roll up lightly, bind securely with tape, put it
into a stew-pan already containing the boiling stock and the bones
from the joint. Add the wine in which the mutton fat was soaked,
the peppercorns and allspice, cover closely, and simmer very gently
from 3 to 3-J hours. Serve with the gravy strained over, and send
red-currant jelly to table separately.
Time. — To cook the venison, from 3 to 3J hours. Average Cost,
is. 6d. per lb. Sufficient for 10 or 12 persons. Seasonable September
to January, but may be bought from June.
The New Venison. — The deer population of our splendid English parks was, for’ a very long time,
limited to two species, the fallow and the red. But as the fallow-deer itself was an acclimatized
animal, of comparatively recent introduction, it came to be a question why might not the pro-
prietor of any deer-park in Engliand have the luxury of at least half a dozen species of deer and
antelopes, to adorn the hills, dales, ferny brakes and rich pastures of his domain ? The temperate
regions of the whole world might be made to yield specimens of the noble ruminant, valuable either
for their individual beauty, or for their availability to gastronomic purposes.
We are indebted for the introduction of foreign deer to some English noblemen, who have made
the experiment of breeding them in their parks, and have obtained such a decided success that it
may be hoped their example will induce others to follow in a course which will eventually give to
England’s rural scenery a new element of beauty, and to English tables a fresh viand of the choicest
character.
A practical solution of this interesting question was made by Viscount Hill, at Hawkestone Park
Salop, in January, 1859. On that occasion a magnificent eland, an acclimated scion of the species
whose native home is the South African wilderness, was killed for the table. The noble beast was
thus described : “ He weighed 1,176 lb. as he dropped ; huge as a short-horn, but with bone not half
the size ; active as a deer, stately in all his paces, perfect in form, bright in colour, with a vast dew-
lap, and strong-sculptured horn. This eland in his lifetime strode majestic on the hill-side, where
he dwelt with his mates and their progeny, all English born, like himself.” Three pairs of the same
species of deer were left to roam at large on the picturesque slopes throughout the day, and to return
to their home at pleasure. Here, during winter, they are assisted with roots and hay, but in summer
they have nothing but the pasture of the park ; so that, in point of expense, they cost no more than
cattle of the best description. The male eland is unapproached in the quality of his flesh by any
ruminant in South Africa ; it grows to an enormous size, and lays on fat with as gredt facility as a
true short-horn, while in texture and flavour it is infinitely superior. The lean is remarkably fine,
the fat firm and delicate. It has been tried in every fashion — braised brisket, roasted ribs, broiled
steaks, filet saute, boiled aitchbone, etc. — and in all these points has demonstrated that a new
meat of surpassing value has been added to the products of the English park.
758 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1337. — VENISON, POTTED. (Fr.— Terrine de
Venaison.)
Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of venison, J of a lb. of butter, 1 glass of port wine,
salt and pepper, clarified butter.
Method. — Put the venison into a stewing -jar with a close-fitting lid,
add the wine and :J of a lb. of butter, and season with salt and pepper.
Cover the top of the jar with 2 or 3 thicknesses of buttered paper,
press the lid down tightly, and cook in a moderately cool oven for 2
hours. Drain well, chop finely, pound in a mortar until smooth,
moistening the preparation gradually with gravy, and pass it through
a wire sieve. Season to taste, press into small pots, and cover with
clarified butter.
Time. — To cook the venison, about 2 hours. Average Cost, 3s. iod.
Sufficient for 6 or 8 pots. Seasonable from June to February.
I338.— WIDGEONS, ROASTED. (. Fr . Sarcelle Rotie.)
Ingredients. — Widgeons, butter for basting, watercress, lemons. For
the sauce : \ a pint of brown sauce ( see Sauces), 1 glass of port wine
or claret, the juice of 1 lemon and 1 orange, salt and pepper, castor
sugar.
Method. — Truss the birds for roasting. Baste well with hot butter,
and roast in front of a clear fire for about 20 minutes, or bake in
a moderately hot oven for the same length of time. Keep them
well basted with hot butter, and shortly before serving sprinkle
lightly with flour, to give the birds a nice appearance. Meanwhile
make the brown sauce as directed, add to it the wine, orange and
lemon-juices, a pinch of sugar, salt, and pepper to taste, simmer for
15 minutes, then strain, skim, and serve with the birds on a hot dish,
garnished with watercress and quarters of lemon, and hand the sauce
separately.
Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, from is. 6d. each. Season-
able from August 1 to March 15.
1339.— WILD DUCK, ROASTED. (Fr.— Canard Sau-
vage Roti.)
Ingredients. — 1 wild duck, } a pint of good gravy, \ a pint of either
Bigarade or port wine sauce (see Gravies and Sauces), flour, butler
for basting, lemons.
Method. — Truss the bird for roasting, and if the fishy taste is dis-
liked, cover a deep baking-tin to the depth of \ an inch with boiling
water, add a tablespoonful -of salt, put in the bird, and bake it for
10 minutes, basting very frequently with the salt and water. Then
RECIPES FOR COOKING GAME
759
dry, sprinkle lightly with flour, baste well with hot butter* and
either roast in front of a clear fire for about 20 minutes, or bake
for the same length of time in a moderately hot oven, basting frequently
with hot butter. These birds should always be served rather underdone,
otherwise they lose their flavour. An orange salad frequently accom-
panies this dish. To make this salad the oranges should be cut across
into thin slices, the pips, every particle of skin and pith removed, and
the fruit arranged in layers in a dish, each layer being sprinkled with
a little castor sugar, salad-oil and, if liked, a little brandy.
Time. — About 30 minutes. Average Cost, from 3s. each. Seasonable
from August 1 to March 15.
1340.— WILD DUCK, SALMI OF. (Fr.— Canards
Sauvages en Salmis.)
Ingredients. — The remains of cold roast wild ducks, 1 pint of stock
made from the bones and trimmings of game, 1 glass of port wine or
claret, 1+ ozs. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, 1 teaspoonful each of orange-
juice and lemon-juice, a few thin strips of fresh orange-rind, 1 small
onion, 2 or 3 sprigs of thyme, 1 bay-leaf, salt and pepper, cayenne.
Method. — Cut the remains of the ducks into neat pieces, put the
bones and trimmings, the onion, thyme and bay-leaf into a stew-pan,
cover with cold water, and simmer for at least i-J hours. Melt the
butter in a stewpan, stir in the flour, cook until a brown roux or thicken-
ing is formed, then add the strained stock, and stir until it boils. Add
the pieces of duck, orange and lemon-juices, and wine, season to taste,
cover the stewpan closely, and let it stand for about 20 minutes, where
the contents will become thoroughly hot, but they must not be allowed
to boil.
A salmi is a convenient way of utilizing cold game of any description,
and with a little variation of flavouring the above may be adapted to
hare, grouse, pheasant, or partridge. Although the cold remains of
any bird make, with the addition of a good sauce, an excellent dish
a salmi to be eaten in perfection should be made from birds freshly
cooked for the purpose. A salmi may be garnished with croutons of
fried bread or puff paste, braised olives, button mushrooms or truffles,
while slices of lemon, or divisions of oranges are considered a suitable
garnish for wild duck.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, gd. to iod., exclusive of the wild
duck. Seasonable from August 1 to March 15.
Note. — In cooking or re-heating game, every effort should be made to retain
the characteristic flavour of the bird or animal ; and all flavouring materials
added to the sauce or gravy must be used in moderation, otherwise they
overpower and destroy the flavour the dish should possess.
760
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1341.— WOODCOCK, ROASTED. (Fr — Becasse Rotie.)
Ingredients. — Woodcocks, toast, bacon, butter for basting, good brown
gravy ( see Gravies), watercress.
Method. — The skin of these birds is particularly tender, therefore
they must be plucked very carefully. They are trussed in the same
manner as other birds for roasting, but the head is skinned and left
on, the long beak of the bird being passed through the legs and body
in place of a skewer. Brush over with warm butter, fasten a thin slice
of fat bacon over each breast, and hang them on the spit feet downwards
to roast. Put the toast under to receive the drippings from the trail,
baste frequently with hot butter, and roast for about 15 minutes, or
4 or 5 minutes less when preferred very much underdone. Serve on
the toast, garnish with watercress, and send the gravy to table in a
sauce-boat.
Time. — About 1 5 minutes. Average Cost, from 3s. 9d. to 5s. per
brace. Seasonable from August 1 to March 15.
The Woodcock (Fr. becasse) is a long-billed bird of the same genus as the snipe, and migra-
tory in its habits. It arrives in flocks in Britain in March and April, returning to warmer climates
in the autumn. It is also found during the winter in Aleppo and Japan. The woodcock is about
12 inches in length, and weighs about 12 oz. Its colour is brown, variegated with darker hues;
the tail is black, tipped with grey. Its eggs are brownish-white, mottled with brown. The wood-
cock is a shy bird, and difficult to capture. It feeds at early morn and at dusk ; its principal food
are worms. The flesh of the woodcock is held in high estimation. This bird is common in North
America and resembles the European woodcock in its plumage and habits, but is of a smaller size.
RECIPES FOR COOKING
HARE AND RABBIT
CHAPTER XXVI
1342. — HARE, BAKED, WITH TRUFFLES.
(Fr. — Lievre aux Truffes.)
Ingredients. — 1 young hare, + a lb. of truflles, 6 ozs. of finely-chopped
pickled pork, 6 ozs. of finely-chopped veal, 1 finely-chopped shallot,
1 glass of sherry, aromatic seasoning, salt and pepper, fat for basting,
of a pint of Espagnole Sauce No. 244.
Method. —Prepare the hare as directed in Notes on Trussing. Pound the
pork, veal and shallot until smooth, and moisten meanwhile with a litt le
good stock, and truffle liquor when using bottled truffles. Pass the
farce through a wire sieve, season to taste, and add the sherry. Cut
the truffles into dice, put 1 tablespoonful aside to be afterwards used
for the sauce, and add the remainder to the farce. Press lightly into
the body of the hare, sew up the opening, truss into shape, and cover
the back with 2 or 3 folds of greased paper. Baste well with hot fat,
bake in a moderately hot oven from 1 to hours, basting frequently,
and 20 minutes before serving remove the paper to allow the back to
brown. Add the remainder of the truffle to the Espagnole sauce, and
serve separately.
Time. -To bake, from 1 to 1 \ hours, according to size. Average Cost,
hare, 4s. 6d. to 6s. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable from Sep-
tember to March.
Hares and Rabbits. — Indications of youth in a hare or rabbit are a narrow cleft in the lip,
sharp and smooth claws, soft and thin ears. A thick haunch, ears dry and rough and blunt, and
rugged claws, are all signs of advanced age. When freshly killed, the flesh has a moist and bluish
appearance.
1343. — HARE, BROILED. ( Fr . — Lievre grille.)
Ingredients. — Remains of a roast hare, salt, cayenne, butter.
Method. — Separate into neat joints, brush them over with oiled
butter, and season highlv with salt and pepper. Broil over a clear
fire until both sides are nicely browned, brushing over with butter
2 or 3 times meanwhile. Serve with good gravy or any appropriate
sauce.
Time. — 10 minutes.
7B1
762 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1344.— HARE IN CASSEROLE. (JFr. — Lievre en
Casserole.)
Ingredients. — 1 hare, i|- pints of good stock, or equal parts of stock
and good stout, 3 ozs. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, 1 onion chopped, 3 cloves,
10 peppercorns and a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay -leaf), all
tied together in muslin, salt and pepper, veal forcemeat ( see Force-
meats, No. 413). red-currant jelly.
Method. — Prepare the hare as directed and cut it into pieces
convenient for serving. Heat 2 ozs. of butter, fry the hare until
nicely browned, and pack closely in a casserole. Fry the onion brown,
add it and the cloves, etc., to the hare, cover with stock, put on the
lid, and cook gently lor about 2-J- hours, or until the hare is tender.
Knead the remaining oz. of butter and the flour smoothly together,
divide into small pieces, and add them to the contents of the casserole,
about \ an hour before serving. Shape the forcemeat into small balls,
fry in hot butter or fat, drain well, and add them 5 minutes before
serving. Remove the herbs tied in muslin, season to taste, and serve
in the casserole, with red currant jelly handed separately.
Time. — From 2\ to 3 hours. Average Cost, 5s. 6d. to 6s. 6d. Suilicient
for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable from September to March.
Tiie Hare (Fr. lievre). — This little animal is found generally distributed over Europe, and, indeed
in most parts of the northern world. Its extreme timidity is its protection, for it is attentive to
every sound, and its ears, both long and tubular, enable it to hear with great acuteness. By the
construction of its large prominent eves it possesses a wide range of vision. The hare lives upon
vegetable food, but its flesh is considered dry, although it is esteemed in many respects to be
superior to that of the rabbit, being more savoury, and of a much higher flavour. The hare usually
feeds in the evening but during the day it adheres closly to its “ form.”
1345.— HARE, CIVET OF. (Fr.— Civet de Lievre.)
Ingredients. — x young hare, \ of a lb. of fat bacon, 1 pint of good
stock, 1 glass of port or claret, 2 ozs. of butter, 2 ozs. of flour, 2 dozen
button onions, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), salt and
pepper, croutons of fried bread
Method. — Divide the hare into small joints, cut the bacon into dice,
fry it lightly in i-|- ozs. of hot butter in a stewpan, then take it out and
put in the pieces of hare. Sprinkle in the flour, and let it brown with
the hare, which should be turned occasionally so that every part of it
may acquire a good colour. Replace the bacon in the stewpan, add
the stock and the bouquet-garni, season to taste, stir until boiling,
then cover closely and simmer gently for about ij hours. Meanwhile
skin the onions, fry them until well browned in the remainder of the
butter, and about 20 minutes before serving add them with the wine
to the contents of the stewpan. Pile the pieces of hare on a hot dish,
interspersed with dice of bacon and onions. Season the sauce to taste,
and strain it over, and garnish the base of the dish with the fried croutons.
RECIPES FOR COOKING HARE AND RABBIT 763
Time. — About ij hours. Average Cost, from 6s. to 7s. 6d. Seasonable
from September to February.
1346. — HARE, CROQUETTES OF. (Fr.— < Croquettes
de Lievre.)
Ingredients. — 6 tablespoonfuls of finely-chopped cooked hare, 2 yolks
of eggs, \ a pint of brown sauce {see Sauces, No. 233), a pinch of
powdered cloves, salt and pepper, egg and breadcrumbs, frying-fat,
parsley.
Method. — Make the sauce as directed, add the yolks of eggs, and stir
over the fire until it thickens. Put in the hare, add the cloves, and
salt and pepper to taste, mix well, and turn on to a plate. When
cool, form into cork-shaped pieces, coat with egg and breadcrumbs,
and fry in hot fat until nicely browned. Drain well, and serve gar-
nished with crisply-fried parsley.
Time. — To fry, from 4 to 5 minutes. Average Cost, is. gd. to 2s. 3d.
Sufficient for 4 persons.
1347. — HARE, HASHED. (Fr.— Lievre hashe.)
Ingredients. — Remains of cold roast hare, f of a pint of brown Sauce
( see Sauces), 1 glass of port or claret, salt and pepper, red currant jelly.
Method. — Cut the hare into neat slices, and put these aside while
the bones and trimmings are being boiled for stock. Make the brown
sauce as directed, and, when economy is an object, use equal parts
of stock and stout instead of adding wine to the sauce when finished.
Season the sauce to taste, put in the slices of hare, let them remain
until thoroughly hot, then serve with red-currant jelly.
Time. — 1 5 minutes, to reheat the hare. Average Cost, is. 4d. to is. 6d.
1348. — HARE, JUGGED. (Fr. — Civet de Lievre a
l’Anglaise.)
Ingredients. — 1 hare, i£ pints of good stock, 1 glass of port wine
or claret, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 3 ozs. of butter, 1 oz. of flour,
1 medium-sized onion, 4 cloves, 12 peppercorns, a bouquet-garni
(parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), salt and pepper, veal forcemeat {see Force-
meats, No. 413), red currant jelly.
Method. — Prepare the hare as directed in Notes on Trussing, and cut it
into pieces about the size of a small egg. Heat 2 ozs. of butter in a frying-
pan, fry the pieces of hare brown, then put them into a stew-jar with
a little salt, the onion stuck with cloves, 1 glass of wine, the lemon-
juice, peppercorns, herbs, and the stock previously made hot. Cover
the jar closely, and cook in a moderate oven for about 3 hours. When
the oven is too hot the jar should be placed in a baking-tin surrounded
764
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMEN1
by boiling water, or, when more convenient, the jar may stand in a
saucepan of boiling water on the stove. About \ an hour before
serving, knead the remaining oz. of butter and the flour together,
stir into the stock, add the other glass of wine, and seasoning if necessary.
Make the forcemeat as directed, shape it into small balls, fry in hot
butter or fat, and drain well. Pile the pieces of hare on a hot dish,
strain the gravy over, arrange the forcemeat balls round the base,
and serve the red currant jelly separately.
Time. — To cook, about 3 hours. Average Cost, 5s. 6d. to 6s. 6d.
Seasonable from September to March.
1349. — HARE, POTTED.
Ingredients. — 1 hare, slices of bacon, good stock, a bouquet-garni
(parsley, thyme, bay -leaf), 3 cloves, 10 peppercorns, 1 blade of mace,
2 bay-leaves, cayenne, salt and pepper, clarified butter.
Method. — Prepare the hare as directed in Notes on Trussing, and cut it
into rather small pieces. Line the bottom of a stew-jar or stewpan with
slices of bacon, pack the pieces of hare closely on the top, add the
herbs, cloves, peppercorns, mace, bay-leaves, and a liberal seasoning
of salt. Barely cover with stock, la}^ slices of bacon on the top, cover
closely, and cook very gently either on the stove or in the oven for about
3 hours, adding more stock from time to time. Remove the bones,
chop the flesh and the bacon finely, and pound these in a mortar until
smooth, moistening gradually with stock, previously strained. Season
rather highly, pass the preparation through a fine sieve, and press
it into small pots. Cover with clarified butter, and keep in a cool dry
place.
Time. — To stew, about 3 hours. Average Cost, 5s. 6d. to 6s.
Note. — Cold remains of hare may also be potted, a little good gravy or
brown sauce being used to moisten the preparation.
1350. — HARE, ROASTED. (Fr.— Lievre Roti.)
Ingredients. — 1 hare, bacon, veal forcemeat ( see Forcemeats), f of a
pint of stock, 1 glass of port, 2 ozs. of butter, ijj- ozs. of flour, \ a tea-
spoonful of finely-chopped shallot or onion, a teaspoonful of finely-
chopped parsley, a good pinch of thyme, salt and pepper, red currant
jelly, milk for basting.
Method. — Choose a young hare, which may be known by its smooth
and sharp claws, and the narrow cleft in the lip. To be eaten in per-
fection it should hang about 8 days. When ready for use, skin, draw,
and truss according to directions given in Notes on Trussing. Forcemeat
is a matter of taste ; if used, it should be pressed lightly inside the hare
and the body sewn up with a needle and strong cotton before trussing.
Carefully follow the directions given for trussing, then brush the hare
all over with warm butter or dripping, cover the back with slices of
RECIPES FOR COOKING HARE AND RABBIT 765
fat bacon, and tie it down with string in 3 or 4 places. Roast the
hare in front of a clear fire or in a moderate oven from i|- to 2 hours,
basting it very frequently with milk, to which may be added, \Vhen
economy is not an object, 1 or 2 ozs. of butter. Meanwhile, remove the
gallbladder carefully from the liver, put the liver into cold water, bring
to the boil, cook for 5 minutes, then drain and chop finely. Melt the
butter in a small stewpan, add the liver, onion, parsley and thyme,
fry for 10 minutes, then drain, and return the butter to the stewpan.
If available, pound the liver, etc., in a mortar until smooth, and rub
through a fine wire sieve. Re-heat the butter, stir in the flour, and cook
over the fire until a nut-brown roux is obtained, then add the stock
(if none is at hand substitute the milk used for basting), stir until it
boils, then add the liver preparation, season to taste, simmer for 10
minutes, and just before serving put in the wine. When the hare is
rather more than three parts cooked remove the bacon, to allow the back
to brown, dredging slightly with flour, and basting frequently with but-
ter during the process. Remove the trussing strings, dish up on a hot
dish, and serve with the liver sauce and red currant jelly separately.
Time. — To roast, from 1} to 2 hours. Average Cost, 6s. to 6s. 6d.
Seasonable from September to March.
1351. — HARE, ROAST BARON OF. (Fr.— Baron de
Lievre Roti.)
Ingredients. — 1 hare, larding bacon, veal forcemeat ( see Forcemeats),
f- of a pint of brown sauce ( see Sauces, No. 233) 1 glass of port, red cur-
rant jelly, butter or fat for basting.
Method. — This dish will be found most useful for a small dinner.
The body, cut close to the shoulder-blades, alone is used, but the legs,
neck and head can be converted into soup, potted, or made into a civet
of hare. Parboil the liver, chop it finely, add it to the veal forcemeat,
then stuff the body of the hare and sew it up with strong cotton. Care-
fully remove the skin from the back, and lard it, i.e., insert
fine stips of larding bacon. Wrap the hare in 2 or 3 folds of
well-greased paper, secure it with string, and roast in front of a clear
fire or in a moderate oven from 40 to 30 minutes, basting frequently
with hot butter or dripping. When the cooking is nearly completed
remove the paper to allow the lardoons to crisp. Make the sauce as
directed, add the wine, season to taste, and serve in a sauce-boat.
Time. — To cook, 40 to 50 minutes. Average Cost, 6s. to 6s. 6d., in-
cluding the whole hare. Seasonable from September to the end of
March.
1352. — HARE SOUP. ( Fr .- Potage de Lievre.)
See page 166, Soup Section, Recipe No. 69.
766 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1353. RABBIT IN ASPIC JELLY. (Fr.—. Lapin en
Gelee.)
Ingredients. — Cooked rabbit, aspic jelly, hard-boiled eggs, shredded
bacon.
Method. — Divide the rabbit into neat pieces. Cover the bottom
of a plain mould with a thin layer of liquid, but cold, aspic jelly, and,
when set, decorate with slices or sections of egg, and add more jelly.
Arrange the pieces of rabbit in layers interspersed with strips of bacon
and slices of egg, and fill up with jelly. Put aside until set, then
unmould, garnish with chopped aspic, and serve.
Time. — To set the aspic, from 2 to 3 hours. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. to
3s. Seasonable from September to March.
The Rabbit. — This animal is an inhabitant of the temperate regions, but does not reach so far
north as the hare, to which it is allied. The wild rabbit is a native of Great Britain, and is found
in large numbers in Norfolk and Cambridgeshire. The flesh of the wild rabbit is darker than that
of the domesticated species, and is by some considered to possess a higher flavour, although neither
so white nor so delicate. It is also smaller in size and less fat than the tame rabbit.
1354. — RABBIT, AMERICAN STYLE. (Fr.— Lapin a
TAmericaine.)
Ingredients.— 1 rabbit, J of a pint of tomato puree, i } ozs. of butter,
1 oz. of flour, 2 ozs. of dripping, stock, salt and pepper, lemon- juice,
castor sugar.
Method. — Wash and dry the rabbit thoroughly, and divide it into
neat joints. Heat the dripping in a stewpan, fry the rabbit until
well-browned, and drain away the fat. Barely cover with stock,
put on a close-fitting lid, and cook very gently until tender. Mean-
while heat the butter in another stewpan, fry the flour slowly until it
acquires a nut-brown colour, then stir in the tomato puree. When
ready, remove the rabbit and keep it hot. Strain and add f of a
pint of the stock to the blended flour and butter. Stir until boiling,
season to taste, and add a pinch of sugar and about 1 teaspoonful of
lemon-juice. Put in the rabbit, make thoroughly hot, then serve.
Time. — To stew, from 1 to hours. Average Cost, is. gd. to 2s. id.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable from September to March.
1355. — RABBIT A LA MINUTE. (Fr. — Lapin a la
Minute.)
Ingredients. — 1 young rabbit, 4 ozs. of butter, 1 good tablespoontul of
flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of chopped mushrooms, \ dessertspooflful of
chopped parsley, \ a saltspoonful of mace, salt and pepper, f- of a pint
of boiling stock or water.
Method. — Wash and thoroughly dry the rabbit and cut it into neat joints.
Heat 2+ ozs. of butter in a stewpan, put in the rabbit, sprinkle with
RECIPES FOR COOKING HARE AND RABBIT 767
salt and pepper, and add the mace. Put on the cover, which should
fit as closely as possible, and cook gently for 45 minutes, turning the
pieces over and basting frequently. Meanwhile melt the remainder
of the butter in another stewpan, add the flour, stir and cook gently
for a few minutes without browning, then add the stock. Boil up,
simmer gently for 10 minutes, and pour over the rabbit when it has
cooked for 40 minutes. Add the parsley, mushrooms, salt and pepper
to taste, and continue to cook slowly for 20 minutes longer, or until
the rabbit is tender. Serve with the sauce poured over.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, is. iod. to 2s. 2d. Sufficient for
4 persons. Seasonable from September to March.
Varieties of Rabbits. — Among the numerous varieties of rabbits, some are kept for their beauty,
and are known as “ fancy ” rabbits. These are of foreign origin, and probably came originally
from Persia, India and Chiaa. The most valued are the lop-eared and Angora; other kinds,
as the Belgian hare-rabbit, the silver-grey, the Himalayan and the Dutch rabbit, are kept for some
qualities of form or for the excellence of their flesh. For the table the Belgian hare-rabbits are the
best, for their size, weight and the rapidity with which they arrive at maturity. The common
white, and yellow and white species have white and delicate flesh, and when cooked in a similar way
to the turkey are said to rival it in flavour. Wild or semi-wild rabbits are distinguished as “ war-
reners,” who burrow underneath the earth, and live in communities; “ parkers,” whose favourite
resort is the park or pleasure ground of an estate, where they usually breed in great numbers, and
frequently drive away the hares ; and the “ hedgehog,” of roaming habits.
1356.— RABBIT, BARBECUE OF. (Fr.— Lapin
Grille.)
Ingredients. — 1 very young rabbit, salad-oil or oiled butter, salt and
pepper. For the sauce : 2 tablespoonfuls of good gravy, 1 table-
spoonful of lemon-juice, 1 teaspoonful of French mustard. For the
garnish: sliced lemon, fried parsley.
Method. — Cut off the head, let the rabbit lie in salt and water for 1
hour, and afterwards dry it thoroughly. Score the back and legs
closely, season with salt and pepper, and coat liberally with salad-oil
or oiled butter. Heat up the gravy and other ingredients. Let it
remain for 1 hour, then again sprinkle the rabbit with salt and
pepper, brush it over with oil or butter, and broil it over or in front
of a clear fire. Turn frequently, and brush over with oil or butter
whenever it appears in the least dry. Divide into neat joints, and
dish up, pour over a little brown sauce, and garnish with sprigs of
fried parsley and sliced lemon.
Time. — To broil, from 20 to 25 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. to
is. qd. Sufficient for 3 to 4 persons. Seasonable from September to March.
The Common or Wild Rafbit. — This well-known rodent belongs to the same family {Leporidce I as
the hare, but is smaller in size, and its hind legs and ears are shorter. In the wild state the fur
of the rabbit is a greyish-brown; the colour under domestication, however, changes frequently
to black, white or other shades. The fur is used for many purposes, as the manufacture of hats,
the imitation of more costly furs, etc. The rabbit is one of the most prolific of animals, and
in Australia and New Zealand, where it was introduced from England, it has 'increased so rapidly
as to become a serious pest. During the time of the Roman power under the Emperor Augustus
the Balearic Islands were once infested by rabbits to such an extent that the inhabitants were
obliged to beg the aid of a military force to exterminate the prolific rodents. Sandy tracts and the
slopes of hills, in which it burrows, are the favourite resort of the rabbit. Martial, the Roman
writer of epigrams, declared that it was from the rabbit, with its remarkable faculty for tunnelling
in the earth, that man first learned the art of fortification, mining and covered roads. Large
numbers of wild rabbits are kept in enclosures or “ warrens ” in favourable localities, and are
killed to supply the markets, as well as for their fur and skin.
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HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1357. — RABBIT, BOILED. (Fr. — Lapin bouilli.)
Ingredients. — 1 rabbit, 1 onion, 1 carrot, £ a turnip, a bouquet-garni
(parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 6 peppercorns, salt, onion sauce ( see Sauces,
No. 265), boiled or fried bacon.
Method. — Truss the rabbit (see Notes on Trussing), put it into boiling
water ; when the water re-boils add the vegetables cut into large pieces,
the bouquet-garni, peppercorns, and a teaspoonful of salt. Cook gently
from 45 to 60 minutes, according to the age and size of the rabbit.
Remove the skewers, serve on a hot dish, coat with onion sauce, and
send the remainder to table in a sauce-boat. Serve the bacon on a
separate dish, unless small rolls are preferred, when they may be used
as garnish. The liquor in which the rabbit was cooked may be served
separately as broth, or afterwards converted into a white soup.
Time. — From 45 to 60 minutes. Average Cost, is. 9d. to 2s.
Sufficient, one large rabbit for 4 persons.
1358. — RABBIT, CREAM OF. (Fr. — Creme de Lapin.)
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of raw rabbit, £ of a pint of thick white sauce
(No. 221), I small egg. salt and pepper, £ a pint of brown sauce (No. 233).
Method. — Chop the flesh of the rabbit finely, or pass it 2 or 3 times
through a mincing machine, and pound it in a mortar until smooth.
Work in the egg, add the white sauce, season well with salt and pepper,
and pass the mixture through a fine sieve. Press lightly into 6 or 8
well-buttered bomb or other small moulds, steam gently until firm,
and serve with the brown sauce strained over the dish.
Time. — To steam the moulds, from 15 to 20 minutes. Average Cost,
about 2s. Sufficient for 6 or 8 moulds. Seasonable from September to
March.
Fecundity of the Rabbit. — The reproduction of this animal has been the subject of wonder to all
naturalists. It breeds seven times in the year, and generally begets seven or eight young ones at
a time. If we suppose this to happen regularly for a period of four years, the progeny that would
spring from a single pair would amount to more than a million. The rabbit, however, has many
enemies, and its numbers are largely kept down by carnivorous animals of every description.
As previously mentioned, in the time of the Roman power rabbits once infested the Balearic Islands
to such an extent that the inhabitants were obliged to implore the assistance of a military force
from Augustus to exterminate them.
1359. — RABBIT, CURRIED. (Fr.— Lapin au Kari.)
Ingredients. — I rabbit, 4 or 5 ozs. of cooked rice, 3 ozs. of butter or
fat, 2 onions, 1 apple, f- of a pint of stock, 1 tablespoonful of curry-
powder, 1 tablespoonful of flour, the juice of a lemon. Salt.
Method. — Wash the rabbit, dry it thoroughly, and divide it into small
joints; slice the apple and the onions. Heat the butter or fat in a stew-
pan, fry the rabbit until lightly browned, remove it, put in the onions,
and when they have acquired a deep brown colour add the curry-powder
and flour, and fry for 10 minutes. Now put in the stock, and when
boiling replace the rabbit, add the apple, salt to taste, cover, and
GAME
I. — Hen Wild Duck. 2. — Wood Pigeon. 3.— Woodcock. 4. — Cock Wild Duck.
5.— Black Plover. 6. — Golden Plover. 7. — Snipe. 8. — Pheasants. 9. — Hare.
10. — Teal.
RECIPES FOR COOKING HARE AND RABBIT 769
simmer gently for 1 \ to if hours. Before serving, add the lemon-
juice and seasoning if necessary. Pile the rabbit in the centre of. a
hot dish, strain the sauce over, and serve the rice separately.
Time. — From 2f to z\ hours. Average Cost, from 2s. to 2s. 6d. Sufficient
for 3 or 4 persons.
1360. — RABBIT CUTLETS. (Fr.— Cotelettes de Lapin.)
Ingredients. — 2 rabbits, liver farce No. 398, brown sauce ( see
Sauces), egg, breadcrumbs, butter or frying-fat, parsley.
Method. — Cut off the legs and necks of the rabbits, and put them
aside to be afterwards converted into a ragout or pie. Remove the
flesh from the back of each rabbit, keeping it whole, and afterwards
divide it into pieces of even and suitable size. Flatten them with
a cutlet-bat, trim neatly, and fry gently for 10 or 15 minutes in hot
butter or fat. Press between 2 dishes until cold, then cover one side
rather thickly with liver farce, and coat carefully with egg and bread-
crumbs. Fry in a deep pan of fat until nicely browned, then drain
well and serve garnished with fried parsley. Send the sauce to table
in a sauce-boat.
Tim . — To fry, 10 or 15 minutes, and afterwards 6 or 7 minutes.
Average Cost, rabbits from is. 2d. to is. 6d. each. Seasonable from
September to March.
1361. — RABBIT, DARIOLES OF. (Fr.— Darioles de
Lapin.)
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of finety-chopped raw rabbit, 1 oz. of panada,.
2 tablespoonfuls of brown sauce No. 233, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream,
1 egg, salt and pepper, mushroom or oyster sauce.
Method. — Pound the rabbit until smooth, add the egg, panada, salt
and pepper to taste, and, when well mixed, pass through a fine wire
sieve. Stir in the cream and brown sauce, press the preparation lightly
into well-buttered darioles, and steam gently until firm. Unmould and
serve with mushroom, oyster or celery sauce.
Time. — To steam the darioles, from 20 to 25 minutes. Average Cost,
is. 8d. to 2s. 2d. Sufficient for 6 or S darioles. Seasonable from Septem-
ber to March,
1362. — RABBIT, FRICASSEE OF. (Fr. — Lapin en
Fricassee.)
Ingredients. — 1 young rabbit, 2 ozs. of butter, i|- ozs. of flour, white
stock, a pint of milk, 2 onions sliced, 1 carrot sliced. \ a small turnip
sliced, 1 or 2 strips of elery shredded, a bouquet-garni (parslev, thyme,
bay-leaf), 1 blade of mace, 6 white peppercorns, salt and pepper.
C C
77°
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Cut the rabbit into neat joints, and after rinsing in warm
water, place them in a stewpan, and add just sufficient white stock
to cover. Bring to boiling point, add the prepared vegetables, pepper-
corns and a little salt, cover closely, and cook gently for about i|-
hours, or until the rabbit is tender, adding a little milk from time to
time, to replace the stock. Meanwhile melt the butter, add the flour,
stir and cook gently without browning, and put aside until wanted.
When ready, take up the rabbit and keep it hot, strain and add f- of
a pint of the stock to the blended flour and butter, stir until boiling,
and simmer gently for io minutes. Pass the vegetables through a
fine sieve, and stir the puree into the sauce. .Season to taste, replace
the rabbit, make thoroughly hot, then serve.
Time. — About i-J- hours. Average Cost, is. 9d. to 2s. Sufficient for
3 or 4 persons. Seasonable from September to March.
1363. — RABBIT, FILLETS OF. (F>.— Filets de Lapin.)
Ingredients. — 2 rabbits, larding bacon, a mirepoix ( see No. 949), stock
glaze, a pint of brown sauce.
Method. — Remove the flesh from the back of each rabbit ( see Rabbit
Cutlets), divide into pieces of suitable size, and lard one side of them
in close even rows. Place the vegetables in a stewpan, add stock to
nearly cover them, and lay the fillets on the top. Cover with a greased
paper, put on the lid, which should fit closely, and cook very gently
for about 1 hour, adding more stock from time to time. Put the
fillets into a hot oven for a few minutes, to crisp the bacon, then brush
them over with glaze, and serve on a hot dish with the sauce poured
round.
Time. — To braise the fillets, about 1 hour. Average Cost, rabbit from
is. 2d. to is. 6d. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable from
September to March.
1364. — RABBIT, FRIED WITH TARTARE SAUCE.
(Fr. — Lapereau frit a la Tartare.)
Ingredients. — 1 young rabbit. For the marinade, or sauce : 4 of a pint of
salad-oil, 1 tablespoonful of chili vinegar, 1 tablespoonful of malt,
vinegar, 1 finely-chopped shallot, 2 cloves, 1 bay-leaf, 1 blade of mace,
salt and pepper, \ of a pint of mayonnaise sauce No. 201, 1 table-
spoonful of coarsely-chopped pickled gherkins, egg, breadcrumbs,
frying-fat.
Method. — Bone the legs of the rabbit, and remove the flesh from the
back in large fillets. Place them in a deep dish, pour over the marinade,
RECIPES FOR COOKING HARE AND RABBIT
771
and let them remain in it for at least i hour, turning frequently. Make
the mayonnaise sauce as directed, and add to it the chopped gherkin.
Drain the pieces of rabbit well, coat them with egg and breadcrumbs,
and fry in hot fat until nicely browned. Drain well, arrange in a
pyramidal form on a hot dish, garnish with crisply-fried parsley, and
serve the mayonnaise sauce in a sauce-boat.
Time. — From i-J- to 2-|- hours. Average Cost, 2S. 3d. to 2s. 9d. Suffi-
cient for 3 or 4 persons.
1365. — RABBIT, JUGGED. (Fr.— Civet de Lapin.)
Ingredients. — 1 rabbit, 1 pint of good stock, 1 glass of port or claret,
1 dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, i\ ozs. °f butter, 1 oz. of flour, 1
medium-sized onion, 2 cloves, 8 peppercorns, a bouquet-garni (parsley,
thyme, bay-leaf), salt and pepper, veal forcemeat No. 413, red-
currant jelly.
Method. — Wash and dry the rabbit and cut it into neat joints. Fry
in id ozs. of hot butter until well browned, and afterwards follow the
directions for Hare, Jugged, p. 763.
Time. — To cook, about 2 hours. Average Cost, 2s. 3d. to 2s. 6d.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable from September to March.
The Rabbit House. — To keep rabbits in good health, especially if they are valuable and of a pure
and delicate breed, it is very important that the hutches should be properly constructed, sheltered
from draughts, and protected from damp. If a number of rabbits are kept, a dry brickwork building,
such as a stable or similar outbuilding, with good ventilation, may advantageously be used for this
purpose. Around three sides of the building hutches in tiers should be arranged, the lowest tier
being placed some few inches from the ground. The size of the hutches will be dependent upon
the number of rabbits and the particular purpose for which they are required, but should not be
less than 20 in. in width, constructed of white deal, with a gradual slope from the front to the back
of the hutch, the latter being provided with a zinc gutter. Each hutch should be divided into
two sections, the smaller, about one-third of the length of the hutch, serving as a dark or sleeping
compartment with an arched hole, made smooth to prevent injury to the fur of the rabbit when
passing from one part of the hutch to the other. A double floor to the hutch will conduce to the
health and cleanliness of the rabbit. The lower floor should be constructed of pine, about 1 in. in
thickness, and the upper floor made of half-inch laths, 1 in. apart, placed diagonally or at right angles
to one another. In the case of “ outside hutches ” care must be taken that the hutches have a
southern aspect, and are protected from cold and wet, but ventilation must not be forgotten, for
pure air is indispensable where many rabbits are kept ; it should, however, be regulated in cold or
wet weather by the closing or shutting of opposite doors or windows. Where a large number of
rabbits are kept for breeding and rearing for the market, a rabbit-court is the most advantageous
for that purpose.
1366. — RABBIT, LARDED AND BRAISED.
(Fy. — Lapin pique et braise.)
Ingredients. — i rabbit, larding bacon, stock, i oz. of butter, i oz.
of flour, 2 ozs. of dripping, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-
leaf), salt and pepper.
Method. — Wash and dry the rabbit thoroughly, cut it into neat pieces,
and lard each piece by inserting thin strips of larding bacon. Heat the
dripping in a stewpan, fry the rabbit quickly until lightly browned, and
drain away the fat. Cover with stock, add salt and pepper to taste, and
the herbs tied in muslin, cover closely, and cook gently from i J to i-f hours,
or until the rabbit is quite tender. Knead the butter and flour to-
772
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
gether, and add it, in small pieces, to the contents of the stewpan
about 20 minutes before serving. Serve with the sauce strained
over.
Time. — From i-J- to if hours. Average Cost, is. 8d. to 2s. Sufficient
for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable from September to March.
1367. — RABBIT, MARBLED.
Ingredients. — 2 rabbits, 1 lb. of pickled pork or bacon in slices, stock,
2 hard-boiled eggs, 1 raw egg, \ an oz. of gelatine, f a teaspoonful
of powdered mixed herbs, b a teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley.
Method. — Cut off the heads and necks, wash the rabbits, and let
them soak for at least 1 hour in strong salted water. Pack closely
in a stewpan, lay the slices of pork or bacon on the top, and barely
cover with stock. Cover closely, simmer gently from 1 hour to if
hours, or until the rabbits are tender, and remove the flesh from the
bones in as large pieces as possible. Chop all the small pieces of flesh
as finely as possible, mix with it the herbs and seasoning, and half its
weight in breadcrumbs, and finely-chopped pork or bacon, and
moisten with egg. Cut the remainder of the pork or bacon into
strips. Fry the livers and kidneys in hot butter or fat, drain them
well, and when cool slice them rather thinly. Form the prepared force-
meat into small balls, drop them into boiling stock or water, and simmer
for 10 minutes. Add 1 pint of strained stock to the gelatine, stir
over the fire until dissolved, season to taste, and, if cloudy, clear with
white of egg. When cool, pour a little into a mould, let it set, then
cover with pieces of rabbit, interspersed with strips of pork or bacon,
forcemeat balls, liver, kidney, and slices of egg. Repeat until all
the materials are used, taking care to leave spaces to admit the
stock, which must be added to completely cover the rest of the
ingredients. Put aside until set, then unmould, and use as required.
Time.— Altogether, about 4 hours. Average Cost, 3s. 4d. to 4s. Suffi-
cient for 1 or 2 moulds. Seasonable from September to March.
1368. — RABBIT PATTIES. (Fr.— Pates de Lapin.)
Ingredients. — 6 ozs. of either raw or cooked rabbit, 2 ozs. of ham
or lean bacon, stock or water, salt and pepper, short crust or puff paste,
T Pcr@r.
1 cfc>b#
Method. — Cut both rabbit and bacon into rather small dice, season
liberally with salt and pepper, mix well, and moisten with stock or
water. Have ready some patty-pans lined with paste, fill them with
the meat preparation, and put on the covers. Brush over with egg,
and bake in a moderately hot oven for about 20 minutes, or until
cooked if using raw meat. Serve either hot or cold.
Time. — T° bake, 20 minutes or longer. Average Cost, about is., in
RECIPES FOR COOKING HARE AND RABBIT 773
addition to the rabbit. Sufficient for 12 patties. Seasonable from
September to March.
Fancy Rabbits. — The chief points required by a fancier are respectively the graceful fall of the
ears, the dewlap, the colour and marked points, and the shape and general appearance. The ears
should extend at least 7 in., measured from tip to tip in a line across the skull, and must
also have a uniform and graceful droop. Sometimes the ears, instead of drooping down, slope
backwards ; a rabbit with this characteristic is scarcely admitted into a fancy lot, and is of little
value. The next position is when one ear lops outwards and the other stands erect ; this consti-
tutes the half-lop. The forward or horn-lop is one degree nearer perfection than the half-lop ; the
ears slope forward and down over the forehead. Horn-lops are often perfect in other respects, with
the exception of the droop of the ears, and frequently become the parents of young ones which are
perfect. In the ear- lop, the ears spread out in a horizontal position like the wings of a bird
when in flight. Occasionally a rabbit drops one ear completely, but raises the other so nearly hori-
zontally as to constitute an ear-lop. This variety is superior to all others except the perfect full-
lop, and if well-bred and with good points is esteemed a valuable rabbit.
I he ears of the real or full-lop hang down by the side of the cheek, slanting somewhat outward
in their descent, with the open part of the ear inward, and sometimes either backwards or forwards
instead of perpendicular; when the rabbit stands in an easy position, the tips of the ears touch
the ground, l'he hollows of a fancy rabbit of the first quality should be turned so completely
backwards that only the outer part of them should remain in front ; they should match exactly in
their descent, and should slant outwards as little as possible.
The dewlap, seen only in fancy rabbits when they have attained their full growth, is a fold of skin
under the neck and throat, which commences immediately under the jaw and goes down the throat
and between the forelegs, and projects in breadth beyond the chin. If perfect, it adds greatly
to the beauty of the appearance of the rabbit.
The colour of the fur of fancy rabbits may be of various hues, provided these colours are arranged
in a particular manner, forming imaginary figures or fancied resemblances to certain objects, such
peculiarities of marking being denoted by distinctive designations.
A good fancy rabbit must also have other characteristic marks to be a perfect model of its kind.
The tail must be of the same colour as the back and snout ; there must be a black or blue-black patch
on the back, known as “ the saddle ” ; there should also be dark stripes on both sides of the
body in front, passing backwards to meet the saddle and uniting on the top of the shoulders.
These stripes form “ the chain," and are so called from their resemblance to a chain or collar hang-
ing round the neck.
Comparatively few thoroughbred fancy rabbits will have all these markings clearly defined on
the fur ; but the more closely they approach to the pattern described, the greater will be the value
of the animal as relates to its colour. The beauty and consequent worth of a fancy rabbit depends,
however, much on its shape, or what is styled its carriage. A rabbit is said to have a good carriage
when its back is finely arched, rising full two inches above the top of its head, which must be held
so low as to allow the muzzle and the points of the cars to reach almost to the ground.
1369.— RABBIT PIE. (Fr.— Pate de Lapin.)
Ingredients. — 1 rabbit, \ a lb. of bacon or pickled pork, \ a lb. of
beefsteak, \ a pint °f stock, salt and pepper, short crust or puff paste.
Method. — Wash the rabbit, divide it into small joints, cut the beef
into small thin slices, and the pork into dice. Place these ingredients
in layers in a pie-dish, season each layer liberally with salt and pepper,
and | fill the dish with stock. Cover with paste (see Veal and Ham Pie
No. 798), bake from if to 2 hours in a brisk oven until the paste has risen
and set, and afterwards more slowly. Before serving, add the re-
mainder of the hot stock to the pie. When the pie is intended to be
eaten cold, forcemeat balls and hard-boiled eggs will be found an
improvement, and the appearance may be improved by brushing it
over with yolk of egg when f baked.
Time. — To bake, from if to 2 hours. Average Cost, 2s. 3d., exclusive
of the paste. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
The Angora Rabbit. — As its name implies, this handsome rabbit is a native of Angora, a city and
district of Asia Minor, and noted for the long hair of the animals which live in this region, particu-
larly the sheep, goats and cats, whose wool and fur are exceptionally fine in texture. The fur of
the Angora rabbit is iong, waved and silky and is much valued as an article of commerce.
774
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1 37 °. — RABBIT, PILAU OF. ( Fr . — Pilau de Lapin.)
Ingredients. — i rabbit, £ a lb. of Carolina rice, 4 ozs. of butter, 2 large
onions sliced, i-| pints of stock (about), salt and pepper.
Method. — Wash and dry the rabbit thoroughly, and divide it into
neat joints. Heat 2 ozs. of butter in a stewpan, add the onions, and
cook gently until lightly browned. Wash and drain the rice, add it
to the onions and butter, stir over the fire for about 10 minutes, then
cover with boiling stock and simmer gently. Fry the rabbit very
slowly in the remainder of the butter until well browned, and put it,
and the butter in which it was fried, into the stewpan containing the
rice. Continue to cook slowly for 1 hour, or until the rabbit is quite
tender, adding, from time to time, just as much stock as is necessary
to prevent the rice sticking to the bottom of the stewpan, meanwhile
keeping the stewpan closely covered. Serve the rabbit piled on the
rice.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, 2s. to 2s. 3d. Sufficient for 3
or 4 persons. Seasonable from September to March.
The Himalaya Rabbit. — Amidst the mighty Himalaya mountains, whose peaks are the highest
on the globe, the pretty rabbit here portrayed is found ; and his colour seems to be like the snow,
which, above the altitude of from 13,000 to 16,000 feet, perpetually crowns the summits of these
monarchs of the world.
1371. — RABBIT PUDDING. (Fr. — Pouding de Lapin.)
Ingredients. — 1 rabbit, a lb. of pickled pork cut into dice, flour,
salt and pepper, suet paste No. 1671.
Method. — Wash the rabbit, cut it into neat joints, and put the head,
neck, liver and kidneys aside, to be afterwards stewed for gravy. Mix
together 1 tablespoonful of flour, 1 teaspoonful of salt, J of a teaspoonful
of pepper ; coat the pieces of rabbit with the mixture, and put them
closely in a basin lined with paste, interspersing the dice of pork ( see
Beef and Kidney Pudding, No. 841). Nearly fill the basin with cold
water, cover first with paste, and afterwards with 2 or 3 folds of greased
paper, and steam for at least hours. Turn out the pudding on a
hot dish and send the gravy made from the head, etc. to table separately.
Time. — To steam the pudding, from 2\ to 3 hours. Average Cost,
2s. to 2s, 4d. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable from September
to March.
1372. — RABBIT, ROAST WITH ESPAGNOLE SAUCE.
(Fr. — Lapin Roti a l’Espagnole.)
Ingredients. — 1 rabbit, veal forcemeat {see Forcemeats), bacon,
f of a pint of Espagnole sauce No. 244.
Method. — Stuff the rabbit with the forcemeat, sew up the opening,
and truss according to directions given on Trussing. Cover the back
RECIPES FOR COOKING HARE AND RABBIT 775
with slices of streaky bacon, baste well with hot dripping, and roast
from 50 to 60 minutes before a clear fire or in a moderately hot oven.
Baste frequently, otherwise the flesh will be dry, and a few minutes
before serving remove the bacon to allow the back of the rabbit to
brown. Remove the skewers, serve on a hot dish with some of the sauce
poured round, garnish with the bacon cut into dice, or have ready some
crisply-fried small rolls of bacon, and send the remainder of the sauce
to table in a sauce-boat.
Time. — From 50 to 60 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. to 2s. 9d.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
I373-— RABBIT, RICH STEW OF. (Fr.— Gibelotte de
Lapin.)
Ingredients. — 1 rabbit, J of a lb. of streaky bacon, 1 pint of good
stock, 1 glass of claret, 2 ozs. of butter, i-|- ozs. of flour, 18 button
onions, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 2 cloves, 6 pepper-
corns, salt and pepper.
Method. — Divide the rabbit into small joints, cut the bacon into dice,
and peel the onions. Heat the butter in a stewpan, fry the onions
and bacon until brown, and remove to a plate. Now put in the rabbit,
and when it has acquired a little colour sprinkle in the flour, and con-
tinue the frying until both rabbit and flour are well browned. Replace
the onions and bacon, add the hot stock, bouquet-garni, cloves, pepper-
corns, and salt to taste, cover closely, and stew gently for about 1 hour,
or until the rabbit is tender. 15 minutes before serving add the claret,
and when the sauce again reaches simmering point put in the liver,
previously washed and cut into small pieces, and let it cook for about 10
minutes. Pile the rabbit in the centre of a hot dish, season the sauce to
taste and strain it over, garnish the base with groups of bacon-dice
and onions, and serve.
Time. — About 1 \ hours. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for 3 or
4 persons.
1374.— RABBIT SOUFFLE. (Fr.— Souffle de Lapin.)
Ingredients. — 6 ozs. of finely-chopped raw rabbit, 2 ozs. of butter,
2 ozs. of flour, 3 eggs, a pint of milk, salt and pepper, brown sauce
{see Sauces).
Method. — Melt the butter, add the flour, stir in ihe milk, simmer
gently for 10 minutes, and put the sauce aside to cool. Pound the
flesh of the rabbit until smooth, work in the yolks of eggs, add the white
sauce, and season liberally with salt and pepper. Pass the mixture
through a wire sieve, add the stiffly-whipped whites of eggs, and turn
into a well-buttered souffle-tin. Steam gently from 40 to 50 minutes,
and serve with the brown sauce poured round.
776
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Time. — To steam, from 40 to 50 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. to 2s. 6d.
Sufficient for 1 large souffle. Seasonable from September to March.
1375- -RABBIT WITH SPANISH ONIONS.
Ingredients. — 1 large rabbit, J of a lb. of ham or bacon, 4 or 5 Spanish
onions, flour, salt and pepper.
Method. — Wash the rabbit, cut it into pieces convenient for serving,
cut the onions into thin slices, and the ham or bacon into dice. Line the
bottom and sides of a fireproof earthenware stew-jar or casserole with
slices of onion, put in a single layer of rabbit, add a few pieces of ham,
sprinkle well with flour, salt and pepper, and cover with slices of onion.
Now put in the remainder of the rabbit, with the bacon, flour, and season-
ing as before, cover the surface completely with slices of onion, and add
2 tablespoonfuls of cold water. Put on the lid, which must fit closely,
place the stew-jar in a moderate oven, or on a cool part of the stove,
and- cook very slowly from 2 to 2\ hours. At the end of that time it
will be found that the onions have yielded an abundance of gravy.
If a homely dish is desired, serve the contents of the stew-jar in their
simple form, or transfer the pieces of rabbit to a stewpan, strain over
them the gravy, rub the onions through a fine hair sieve, add these
to the contents of the stewpan, and when thoroughly hot, serve.
Time. — From 2 to 2\ hours. Average Cost, 2s. to 2s. 6d. Sufficient
for 4 or 5 persons.
1376. — RABBIT STEWED IN MILK. (Fr.— Lapin
au lait.)
Ingredients. — 1 rabbit, 1 small onion very finely-chopped, a small
blade of mace, 1 pint of milk (about), salt and pepper, 1 teaspoonful of
cornflour.
Method. — Wash the rabbit, cut it into neat joints, and soak and
blanch the head and neck in strong salted water. Pack the pieces
closely in a baking-dish or pie-dish, sprinkle over them the onion, season
well with salt and pepper, and add the mace. Nearly fill the
dish with milk, cover with an inverted dish or piedish, and cook in
a moderate oven from 1 to \\ hours. About 10 minutes before
serving mix the cornflour smoothly with a little cold milk, boil up, and
add it to the contents of the piedish and allow to cook for another 10
minutes. When ready, arrange the rabbit neatly on a hot dish, strain
the sauce over, then serve.
Time. — From ii to 1^ hours. Average Cost, is. 4d. to is. 8d. Suffi-
cient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable from September to March.
1377. — RABBIT, BROWN STEW OF. (Fr.— Ragout de
Lapin.)
Ingredients. — 1 rabbit, 1 pint of stock, 2 ozs. of butter, f of an oz. of
PRESERVED AND TINNED MEATS,
28
c c *
RECIPES FOR COOKING HARE AND RABBIT
777
flour, 2 cloves, i blade of mace, i bay-leaf, salt and pepper, small rolls
of crisply-fried bacon.
Method. — Cut up the rabbit, fry it in hot butter, removing the pieces
as soon as they are lightly browned. Fry the onions and flour until
well browned, add the stock, herbs and seasoning, stir until boiling,
then replace the rabbit, cover, and simmer gently for about i hour.
Arrange the rabbit neatly on a hot dish, strain over the sauce, and gar-
nish with the bacon.
Time. — From if to 2 hours. Average Cost, is. 9d. to 2s. 6d. Suffi-
cient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable from September to March.
1378.— RABBIT, WHITE STEW OF. (Fr — Lapin
en Blanquette.)
Ingredients. — 1 young rabbit, J of a pint of white stock, J of a pint
of milk, 1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, 1 onion sliced, 1 or 2 strips of
celery shredded, 1 blade of mace, 8 white peppercorns, salt and pepper.
For the garnish: 2 tablespoonfuls each of finely-shredded carrot,
onion and turnip.
Method. — Wash and joint the rabbit, place it in a stewpan with the
stock and milk, and bring to the boil. Add the onion, previously
blanched, celery, mace, peppercorns and a little salt, and simmer
gently until the rabbit is tender. Knead the flour and butter to-
gether, and add it, in small pieces, when the rabbit is three-quarters
cooked. Serve with the sauce strained over, garnished with the
vegetables, previously cooked separately.
Time. — From i£ to i|- hours. Average Cost, 2s. to 2s. 6d. Sufficient
for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable from September to March.
J379* — RABBIT, RAGOUT OF. ( Fr . Ragout de
Lapin.)
Ingredients.— 1 rabbit, 4 ozs. of streaky bacon, 2 ozs. of butter,
ozs. of flour, 1 onion cut into dice, 1 carrot cut into dice, a small
turnip cut into dice, 6 peppercorns, salt and pepper, 1 pint of boiling
stock or water.
Method. — Wash and dry the rabbit thoroughly, and cut the bacon
into 1 inch squares. Heat the butter in a stewpan, fry the rabbit
until the entire surface is nicely browned, then remove and keep it
hot. Fry the onion slightly, put in the flour, stir and cook slowly
until well-browned, and add the stock or water. Boil gently for
10 minutes, add salt to taste, put in the carrot and the turnip,
and the bacon and peppercorns. Replace the rabbit in the stewpan,
cover closely, and cook very gently for about 2 hours, or until the
rabbit is tender. Serve on a hot dish, with the sauce strained over,
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
778
and garnished with the dice of turnip and carrot, which should be
previously boiled separately.
Time. — About 2\ hours. Average Cost, is. 8d. to 2s. Sufficient for
3 or 4 persons. Seasonable from September to March.
1380.— RABBIT, TURBAN OF.
Ingredients. — 2 rabbits, larding bacon, 1 oz. of butter, \ an oz. of flour,
1 egg. i a gill of stock or water, pepper and salt, glaze, brown sauce
( see Sauces, No. 233.).
Method. — Separate the fleshfrom thebones (see Rabbit Cutlets, No. 1360,
and Rabbit, Fillets Of, No. 1361), divide the back into pieces of even
size, and lard them neatly. Melt the butter, stir in the flour, add the
stock, cook until the mixture leaves the sides of the pan, then put it
aside to cool. Chop the remainder of the flesh finely, or pass it 2 or 3
times through a mincing machine, and afterwards pound it until
smooth. Work in the panada, add the egg and seasoning to taste,
and when well mixed pass through a fine wire sieve. Press the mixture
lightly into a well-buttered border or turban mould, and steam until firm.
Meanwhile, the fillets should have been braised and glazed according
to directions given in Rabbits, Fillets Of. Now arrange them
neatly within the shape, pour the sauce round, and serve.
Time. — To cook the fillets, about 1 hour. To steam the turban,
about 35 minutes. Average Cost, 3s. to 3s. 6d. Sufficient for 5 or 6
persons.
TINNED MEAT,
c c
27
TINNED AND PRESERVED
FOODS.
CHAPTER XXVII.
General Remarks on the various Foods, Instructions
for opening tins and serving, etc.
The Nutritive Value of Tinned Meat is less than that of fresh meat,
and it is somewhat insipid owing to the loss of the osmasome, which
gives to meat its agreeable flavour. In consequence of this, and
because when it is overcooked the fibres become tough, a compara-
tively small proportion may be digested and assimilated, and so it is
less satisfying than an equal amount of fresh meat. Tinned goods
of nearly every description are more or less cooked, the time varying
from five minutes to an hour. Tinned food is a valuable sub-
stitute for salt meat on board ship and elsewhere, and is especially
useful to persons removed from the general sources of supply.
Tins containing meat are placed in a vessel and surrounded
by a strong solution of common salt, which is heated to a tem-
perature of 2 30° to 260° F. The top of each tin is securely soldered,
and provided with a small hole through which the air and some of
the steam escapes. As soon as the air is exhausted the aperture is
immediately closed with a drop of solder, thus hermetically sealing
the tin, and preserving all the essential elements of the meat. If any
air remains, fermentation may ensue : a bulging tin indicates this
condition. In all tinned foods there is a danger that small lumps of
solder, used in sealing the tin, may fall inside, and be accidentally
swallowed with the meat. In turning out a tin they should be looked for
in the sediment at the bottom and removed. The danger is frequently
obviated by the manufacturer leaving a small projection of tin under-
neath the hole to catch the solder.
Tinned Goods to be Stored in a Cool Place. — They can then be turned
out easily and sliced more evenly. The larger end of the tin should be
cut away, and a small hole made in the opposite end to admit air,
which, by its pressure, enables the meat to slip out easily. Great
care is needed in opening tinned game and poultry.
To Re-heat Tinned Meat, etc. — The tin containing meat, game or
poultry should be immersed in boiling water until its contents are
sufficiently heated, then opened and emptied. Birds may be served
whole, but they are better cut up and cooked gently in a good sauce,
779
780
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
which should be highly seasoned and flavoured to counteract the
insipidity which very often characterizes tinned foods. Birds, in-
tended to be served cold should be taken out of the tin very carefully,
well-dried and glazed. Breasts and wings of tinned birds are, as a
rule, quite tender, but the legs are usually hard and tough, and should
be converted into rissoles or croquettes and disposed of with as little
delay as possible. Tinned foods of this description soon become
unfit for use.
Tinned Fish. — Salmon, lobster, oysters, prawns, sardines, anchovies,
herrings and red mullet are the chief varieties of tinned fish. A good
brand of the two first-named, if well drained, may be used as a sub-
stitute for fresh fish in many fish entrees and salads, thus materially
reducing their cost. Tinned oysters should not be served “ au naturel,”
but they answer very well for soup, sauce and forcemeat. A good
brand of prawns may be used for a curry.
Tinned and Bottled Soups. — Among the best may be mentioned : gravy,
mock turtle, oxtail, tomato, turtle and other thick soups ; the thin
soups are less satisfactory. In an emergency tinned soups are in-
valuable, as they only require warming and a little additional flavour-
ing and seasoning. Generally they may be diluted by rinsing out the
tin or bottle with a small quantity of hot water.
Tinned or Bottled Vegetables are used extensively, and form an excellent
substitute for fresh vegetables. To obtain satisfactory results, the
method of warming should be adapted to the vegetable. A tin con-
taining asparagus should be immersed in boiling water for about
ten minutes and afterwards carefully opened, and its contents
allowed to slide gently on to a drainer or a slice of toast. Peas, flageo-
lets, lima beans and haricots verts should be well rinsed and afterwards
immersed in cold water for a short time, well drained, and cooked
for a few minutes in boiling water. Salt to taste should be added ;
a little fresh mint and a good pinch of sugar will greatly improve the
flavour of peas. A little butter and a good seasoning of salt and
pepper should be added to spinach, while tomatoes should be well
drained, heated and seasoned to taste. Vegetables are also preserved
in bottles.
Tinned and Bottled Fruits of all kinds should be emptied into
a glass or porcelain dish several hours before being served, and, when
possible, chilled in a refrigerator. Unsweetened bottled fruit will
be found an excellent substitute for fresh fruit.
Other Methods of Preserving Meat.. — There are, of course, other means
of preserving meat than by tinning it. Much of the fresh meat
is spoken of as “ frozen ” meat, and it is actually frozen as
hard as a board directly it is killed, and in that state carried to the
coast and put on board ships fitted with refrigerating chambers, where
the air is maintained at a temperature just below freezing point,
experience having shown that meat is better preserved by this
TINNED AND PRESERVED FOODS
7S1
method than if kept below 32° F. On its arrival in England it is
transferred to similar store-l ouses on land. So long as the heat does
not rise above a certain point it is preserved, but, like the fish taken
from the slab of ice used by the fishmongers, it very soon goes bad
at the ordinary temperature. This method of preserving meat is
merely a larger application of the common practice of storing meat in an
ice-chamber or refrigerator. Neither meat nor any other food can putrefy
without some air, some moisture, and a certain degree of heat. From
the tins all the air is excluded, and so whatever the temperature of the
tin, after once it is sealed the meat remains sweet. It may be
carried to the tropics, or stand in the hottest cupboard in the house,
with the same satisfactory result. A few years ago some bodies of
the extinct mammoth were found in Siberia buried in the ice, but
although they had lain there for so long a period, they were as well
preserved as if the animals had only died the day before.
Dried Meat. — Both animal and vegetable food is also preserved by dry-
ing. Fish is constantly smoked and dried, and thus prepared, forms a
large part of the food of our town poor. Beef and other meat is cut
in slices, and dried in the sun and wind in countries where the heat of the
sun is more powerful than in our own land. Pemmican is dried meat
reduced to powder and mixed with fat, but even that is now much less
used than formerly ; and in general it may be said that drying as a
means of preserving meat has been superseded by more modern and
improved methods.
Salt Meat. — Salt and saltpetre are the antiseptics most commonly
used in the preservation of food, and their use for this purpose dates
from long ago. Centuries back, even in the more favoured districts
of the south of England, there was no food to keep the catlle all the
winter, for the grass was scanty, and turnips were then unknown. In
the autumn every one killed the cattle and salted the meat down for
home consumption through the coming months. Fresh meat, winter
and summer alike, was a luxury which no one could have, and no one
expected.
It is not to be regretted if salt meat is driven away from our markets
by fresh, for salt draws the juice out of the meat with all its soluble
constituents, and at the same time hardens the fibre of the meat
itself, and so makes it less digestible. The brine in which several
pieces of meat have been pickled wall almost set into a jelly, so much
of the valuable juices has it extracted from the meat, and all these are,
of course, wasted. It is said that a third of the meat, or even a greater
proportion, is lost by salting. The salt can be drawn out of the meat
by soaking it in water, but nothing can restore to it what it has lost.
Every one knowrs that salted food cannot be used for any length of
time without injury to the health. Its smallest drawback is — and
even this smallest is considerable — that it naturally encourages thirst,
and it is allowed that all animals thrive better on moist roods than on
78 2
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
dry foods and water. The worst is that salted meat has lost
those saline constituents that are not readily supplied except in
fresh fruits and vegetables, precisely those foods that are rarest
wherever salt meat is most likely to be used, in large towns, cold
countries, during the winter season, or at sea. Sailors at sea get
rations of lime-juice when their supply of vegetables brought from shore
comes to an end, not to counteract the effects of the salt, as some
suppose, but to furnish in another form what the brine has taken
away. In Norway, salt food and scurvy are alike common.
Smoked Meat. — Smoking meat and fish greatly increases its power
of keeping. Creosote is an excellent antiseptic, and is sold to paint
over meat as a substitute for the lengthy and troublesome process of
smoking. Borax is also used as a preservative.
RECIPES FOR TINNED
AND PRESERVED FOODS
CHAPTER XXVIII
Soup, fish, meat, poultry, and sweets.
Soup.
1381. — BROWN SOUP FROM TINNED MUTTON.
Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of tinned mutton. 2 quarts of boiling water, 1
medium onion sliced, 1 small carrot sliced, \ a small turnip sliced,
a bouquet garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of
flour, salt and pepper.
Method. — Turn the meat out of the tin into 1 quart of boiling water,
let it remain until quite cold, and remove the fat. Empty the con-
tents of the basin into a stewpan, add another quart of boiling water,
boil up, and put in the vegetables, herbs, add a little salt and pepper.
Cook gently for 1 hour, and pass the whole through a fine wire sieve.
Heat the butter, add the flour, cook gently and stir occasionally until
a good brown colour is obtained, then replace the puree and liquor.
Boil up, season to taste, and serve. Beef essence, sherry, ketchup and
many other things may be added to enrich the soup and improve its
flavour.
Time. — 2 hours after the fat has been removed. Average Cost, is. 6d.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
1382. — MOCK TURTLE SOUP.
Ingredients. — a tin of calf’s head, 2 ozs. of ham, cut into dice, 1
medium-sized onion sliced, 1 small carrot sliced, 1 or 2 strips of celery,
a bouquet garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), i|- ozs. of butter, i|- ozs.
of flour, sherry, lemon-juice, forcemeat balls (see Forcemeats),
salt and pepper, 5 pints of boiling stock or water.
Method. — Melt the butter in a large stewpan, fry the ham and vegeta-
bles until lightly browned, and sprinkle in the flour. Let the ingredi-
783
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
784
ents cook slowly until well browned, and meanwhile drain the calf’s
head, add the liquor to the stock or water, and cut the meat into neat
pieces. Pour the boiling stock or water over the browned vegetables,
boil up, skim well, and, when the vegetables are tender, pass the whole
through a fine sieve or tammy. Replace in the stewpan, bring to the
boil, season, add sherry and lemon-juice to taste, put in the prepared
meat and forcemeat balls, and serve when thoroughly hot.
Time. — From ij to 2 hours. Average Cost, 2s. 6d., exclusive of the
sherry. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
1383. — OX-TAIL SOUP. (See Mock Turtle Soup. No.
1382.)
Omit the forcemeat balls and lemon- juice, and substitute a tin of
ox-tail for the \ tin of calf’s head.
1384. — WHITE SOUP FROM TINNED RABBIT.
Ingredients. — 1 tin of rabbit, 1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, 2 small
onions sliced, 1 small carrot sliced, 2 or 3 slices of turnip, a bouquet
garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 3 pints of hot water, 1 pint of milk,
3 tablespoonfuls of cream (this may be omitted), salt and pepper.
Method. — Place the whole contents of the tin in a stewpan, add the
water and, when boiling, put in the vegetables and herbs, with a little
salt and pepper. Simmer gently for about 1 hour, then pass the
rabbit and the liquor through a fine wire sieve, and return to the stew-
pan. Boil up, add the milk, the butter and flour, previously mixed
smoothly together and divided into small pieces, with seasoning to
taste. Make thoroughly hot, and stir in the cream just before serving.
The soup may be garnished with shredded vegetables, macaroni,
spagheti, etc.
Time. — About if hours. Average Cost, is. 8d. Sufficient for 5 or 6
persons.
Fish.
1385. — LOBSTER CURRY.
Ingredients. — 1 tin of lobster, \ a pint of curry sauce (see Sauces,
No. 241 ).
Method. — Thoroughly drain the lobster, and divide it into rather
small neat pieces. Make the sauce as directed, put in the prepared
lobster, make thoroughly hot, and serve. Well boiled rice and sliced
lemon should be served with this dish.
Time. — 10 minutes, after the sauce is made. Average Cost, is. 2d.
to is. 6d. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
1386— LOBSTER IN WHITE SAUCE.
Ingredients. — 1 tin of lobster, \ of a pint of white sauce ( see Sauces,
No. 221), puff paste trimmings, breadcrumbs, butter, salt and pepper,
cayenne.
RECIPES FOR TINNED FOODS
785
Method. — Thoroughly drain the lobster, and divide it into large
flakes. Put a border of puff paste round a pie dish, and bake in a
quick oven. Make the sauce as directed. Place the lobster in the
pie-dish, sprinkling each layer liberally with pepper and very spar-
ingly with cayenne, add the white sauce, and cover rather thickly with
breadcrumbs. Season with salt and pepper, add a few small pieces of
butter, and bake in a quick oven until the surface is browned.
Time. — From 35 to 45 minutes. Average Cost, is. 2d., exclusive of
the paste. Sufficient for 4 persons.
1387. — LOBSTER, POTTED.
Ingredients. — Tinned lobster, butter, anchovy sauce, cayenne.
Method. — Drain and pound the lobster to a paste, adding sufficient
butter and anchovy sauce to moisten it. Season highly with cayenne,
if available, pass the mixture through a fine sieve, press it into small
pots, and cover it with clarified butter.
Time. — About 35 minutes. Average Cost, is. 3d. to is. 5d. when
the whole tin is used. Sufficient for 3 or 4 pots.
1388. — PRAWNS, CURRIED.
Ingredients. — 1 tin of prawns, $ of a pint of curry sauce ( see
Sauces, No 241), well-boiled rice, lemon- juice.
Method. — Make the sauce as directed (tinned curry sauce may be
substituted, or the prawns may be obtained ready curried), put in the
prawns, make thoroughly hot, add lemon-juice to taste, and serve
in a border of rice, or hand the rice separately.
Time. — 10 minutes, after the sauce is made. Average Cost, is. qd.
to is. 6d. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
1389. — SALMON KEDGEREE.
Ingredients. — 1 tin of salmon (about a lb.), 4 ozs. of well-boiled
rice, 1 oz. of butter, finely-chopped parsley, salt and pepper, grated
nutmeg.
Method. — Divide the fish into rather large flakes. Heat the butter
in a stewpan, put in the rice, make it thoroughly hot, season to taste,
and add the fish. Stir very gently over the fire for 3 or 4 minutes,
and serve piled on a hot dish. One or two hard-boiled eggs coarsely
chopped are sometimes added to the above ingredients.
Time. — \ an hour. Average Cost, iod. to is. Sufficient for 4 or 5
persons.
1390. — SALMON SCALLOPED.
Ingredients. — 1 tin of salmon, breadcrumbs, white sauce (see
Sauces, No. 221 ), butter, salt and pepper, grated cheese.
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
786
Method. — Divide the salmon into rather large flakes. Butter as many
scallop shells as are required rather thickly with butter, and sprinkle
them lightly with breadcrumbs. Nearly All them with salmon, add
1 or 2 tablespoonfuls of sauce, and cover the surface with breadcrumbs.
Sprinkle lightly with cheese, season with salt and pepper, then add
2 or 3 small pieces of butter. Bake in a moderate oven until nicely
browned, and serve.
Time. — 20 minutes. Average Cost, is. to is. 3d., when the whole tin
is used. Allow 1 to each person.
1391. — SALMON, POTTED. (See Lobster Potted. No.
1387-)
1392. — SARDINE PASTIES.
Ingredients.— 1 tin of sardines, short crust or rough puff paste, or
puff paste trimmings, 1 egg.
Method. — Skin the sardines, take away the backbone, and replace
the two halves. Roll out the paste as thinly as possible, cut it into
strips about 4 in. by 2 in., and in each strip enclose a sardine, leaving
the ends open. Brush over with beaten egg, bake in a quick oven,
and serve hot.
Time. — To bake the pasties, about 15 minutes. Average Cost, is. to
is. 4d. per tin. Allow 1 to each person, when served as a savoury.
1393— SAREHNES POTTED.
Ingredients. — Sardines, butter, cayenne.
Method. — From each sardine remove the skin and backbone. Pound
to a paste, adding butter as required, and season highly with cayenne.
Pass through a hair sieve, press into small pots, and cover with clarified
butter.
Time. — About 40 minutes. Average Cost, is. to is. 4d. per tin. Suffi-
cient, 1 tin for 2 or 3 small pots.
Meat, Poultry, &c.
1394.— BEEF COLLOPS.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of Australian beef, 2 ozs. of butter or dripping,
1 onion, \ of a pint of stock, 1 lemon, 1 teaspoonful of mushroom
ketchup, salt and pepper.
Method .• — Mince the beef finely, put the butter or dripping into a
stewpan. Add the onion (chopped finely) and fry till it is nicely
browned. Add the juice of the lemon, the stock, ketchup and season-
ing, simmer for 5 minutes, then add the meat, simmer for 5 minutes
longer, and serve on a hot dish with a border of mashed potatoes or rice.
Time.— 20 minutes. Average Cost, iod. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
RECIPES FOR TINNED FOODS
78 7
1395 —BEEF OR MUTTON CURRY.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of beef or mutton, 1 oz. of butter or dripping, 1
tablespoonful of flour, 1 tablespoonful of curry-powder, 1 onion sliced,
1 apple sliced (an equal amount of gooseberries or rhubarb may be
substituted), f of a pint of stock, x teaspoonful of lemon-juice, salt,
4 ozs. of cooked rice.
Method. — Cut the meat into small pieces and boil down any jelly
or trimmings for gravy. Heat the butter or dripping in a stewpan,
fry the onion until brown, put in the flour and curry-powder, stir and
cook for 5 minutes, then add the apple and stock, and stir until the
ingredients boil. Cover closely and simmer for about 30 minutes,
then strain and return to the stewpan. Bring nearly to boiling point,
add the lemon-juice, season to taste, and put in the meat. Draw the
saucepan to the side of the stove, and let the meat remain in the hot
sauce for about 20 minutes, but do not allow it to boil. Serve in a
border of boiled rice.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, xod. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
1396. — BEEF ROLL.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of tinned roast beef, coarsely chopped, \ a lb. of
cooked bacon, cut into small dice, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped
parsley, \ a teaspoonful of powdered mixed herbs, salt and pepper,
2 eggs.
Method. — Mix the meat, bacon, parsley, herbs and a good seasoning
of salt and pepper well together, and moisten gradually with beaten
egg. Shape into a roll, brush over with egg, and bake gently for about
1 hour.
Time. — About i|- hours. Average Cost, is. 2d. to is. 4d. Sufficient
for 4 or 5 persons.
1397. — BEEF, BROILED, AND MUSHROOMS.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of tinned roast beef, 12 preserved mushrooms,
1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, f of a pint of stock or water, salt and
pepper.
Method. — Slice the mushrooms, fry them lightly in hot butter, and
sprinkle in the flour. Cook until nicely browned, add the stock or
water, season to taste, stir until boiling, and afterwards simmer gently
for about \ an hour. Slice the meat, coat each slice lightly with oil
or oiled butter, and broil over or in front of a clear fire. Serve with
a little sauce and all the mushrooms round the dish, and put the
remainder of the sauce in a sauce boat.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, is. to is. 3d. Sufficient for 4
persons.
788 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1398— BEEF-TEA CUSTARD.
Ingredients. — Beef essence, 1 egg, \ of a pint of boiling water, salt and
pepper.
Method. — Make a stock of required strength with beef essence and
water. Beat the egg well, then add the stock, and season to taste.
Turn into a buttered cup, place in a saucepan, surround with boiling
water, and cook very gently until the custard is set firmly.
Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, 4d. or 5d. Sufficient for 1
person.
1399. — CORNISH PASTIES.
Ingredients. — For the pastry : 8 ozs. of flour, 3 ozs. of fat, 1 teaspoon-
ful of baking powder, 1 saltspoonful of salt. For the mixture : J of
alb. of beef, Jib. of potato (parboiled), J a teaspoonful of onion (par-
boiled and finely chopped), 2 tablespoonfuls of gravy or water, mixed
herbs, salt and pepper to taste.
Method. — Cut the meat and potatoes into dice, add the onion, herbs,
salt, pepper and gravy, and mix well together. Mix the flour, baking
powder and salt together, rub in the fat, lightly, add the water, being
careful not to make the paste too moist. Divide the paste into 8 equal
portions, and roll them out, keeping the portions as round as possible.
Pile the mixture in the centre of each piece of pastry, wet the edges
and join them together on the top to form an upstanding frill, prick
them 2 or 3 times with a fork, and bake in a moderate oven for about \
an hour.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 6d.
1400. — CROUTES OF MEAT.
Ingredients. — 4 tablespoonfuls of beef coarsely-chopped, 4 squares of
stale bread, 1 oz. of butter, 1 teaspoonful of flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of
gravy or water, 1 teaspoonful of Worcester or other sauce, salt and
pepper.
Method. — Remove the crust and tiim the bread into shape. Melt
the butter in a frying-pan, fry the bread until brown, then remove
and keep hot. Brown the flour in the butter, add the gravy or water,
salt, pepper, Worcester sauce, and when boiling draw aside. When
the sauce has cooled slightly, stir in the meat, let it become thoroughly
hot, then pile on the croutes of bread, and serve at once.
Time. — About 10 minutes. Average Cost, 3d.
1401. — CALF’S HEAD.
Ingredients. — 1 tin of calf’s head, frying-batter, tomato, piquant
or other suitable sauce ( see Sauces, Nos. 265, 282), frying-fat.
RECIPES FOR TINNED FOODS
7?9
Method. — Slice the head neatly, dip each slice into the prepared
batter, and fry in hot fat until crisp and nicely browned. Serve the
sauce separately.
Time. — About \ an hour, after the batter is made. Average Cost,
is. 4d., exclusive of the sauce. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
1402. — FOWL ROASTED.
Ingredients. — 1 tin of roast fowl, 2 or 3 rashers of bacon, gravy,
bread sauce (see Sauces), dripping.
Method. — Immerse the tin containing the fowl in boiling water,
let it become thoroughly hot, then open the tin and remove the bird
carefully. Cover the breast with rashers of bacon, baste well with hat
dripping, and cook in a brisk oven for 15 to 20 minutes. Serve the
bread sauce and gravy separately.
Time. — About 40 minutes. Average Cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for 4 or'
5 persons.
1403. — GAME, SALMI OF.
Ingredients. — 1 tin of partridge or pheasant, J of a pint of brown sauce
( see Sauces, No. 233), 1 glass of poi't, salt and pepper, fried croutons.
Method. — Divide the game into pieces convenient for serving (the
trimmings and jelly will provide the stock for the brown sauce). Make
the sauce as directed, add to it the game, wine and seasoning to taste,
and, when thoroughly hot, serve garnished with croutons of fried
bread.
Time. — About \ an hour, after the sauce is made. Average Cost,
2s. 6d. Sufficient for 4 persons,
1404. — GROUSE, ROAST.
Ingredients. — 1 tin of roast grouse, fried potatoes, good gravy, butter
or dripping.
Method. — Let the tin stand in hot water until the bird is thoroughly
heated, then take it out of the tin and transfer it to a baking tin con-
taining some hot butter or dripping. Baste it well, cook in a brisk
oven for 15 or 20 minutes, and serve with potato straws or chips and
good gravy.
Time. — About 40 minutes. Average Cost, 3s. 9d. Sufficient for 2
or 4 persons.
1405.— HARE, JUGGED.
Ingredients. — 1 tin of jugged hare, 1 glass of port wine, red currant
jelly, salt and pepper.
Method. — Let the tin remain immersed in hot water until its con-
790
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
tents are thoroughly heated, then turn out into a stew-pan, add the
wine, and seasoning if necessary, heat up again and dish up neatly,
and serve. The red currant jelly may be served separately.
Time. — About f an hour. Average Cost, 2s. Sufficient for 4 persons.
1406. — HARICOT OF BEEF.
Ingredients. — 1 pint of haricot beans, 1 lb. tin of beef, if ozs. of
butter, 2 onions, f a pint of stock, 1 carrot, 1 turnip, 1 tablespoonful
of Harvey’s sauce, pepper and salt, flour, ground rice.
Method. — Soak the beans overnight, drain them and put them in a
saucepan with 2 quarts of water and boil for 2 hours, or until they
are thoroughly tender, drain and put them to dry beside the fire
with the saucepan lid slightly raised, then put in f an oz. of butter,
pepper and salt. In another saucepan prepare a sauce as follows :
put 1 oz. of butter in the pan and fry the sliced onions to a nice brown,
cut up the turnip and carrot, add them, and mix the stock smoothly
with 1 tablespoonful of ground rice and flour, place the stock in the
saucepan, add the Harvey’s sauce and simmer for f an hour. Empty
the tin of beef, cut the meat into neat squares, roll these in flour and
put them into the sauce to simmer for 5 minutes. Dish with the meat
and gravy in the centre and the beans in a border round.
Time. — 2 hours. Average Cost, is. 4d. Sufficient for 4 persons.
1407. — HARICOT MUTTON.
Ingredients. — 1 tin of boiled mutton, 2 ozs. of butter, if ozs. of flour,
2 or 3 small onions sliced, 1 small carrot sliced, 2 or 3 slices of turnip
cut into strips, 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup, or some
sharp sauce, salt and pepper, f of a pint of boiling stock or water.
Method.— Slice the meat rather thinly, putting all the jelly into the
stock or water, and rejecting the fat. Heat the butter in a stewpan,
fry the vegetables slightly, sprinkle in the flour, and cook gently.
When well browned put in the stock or water, stir until boiling, simmer
gently until the vegetables are tender, and add the meat. Season to
taste, add ketchup or other sauce, make thoroughly hot, and serve.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, is. 6d. to 2s. Sufficient for 5
or 6 persons.
1408. — IRISH STEW.
Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of Australian mutton, 2 large onions, 2 lbs. of pota-
toes, | of a pint of stock or water, salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the meat into pieces convenient for -serving ; cut
the potatoes into thick slices, and the onions into very thin slices. Take
a saucepan with a close-fitting lid, and in it place the potato and onion
in alternate layers ; sprinkle each layer with salt and .pepper, pour
in the stock, and cook the ingredients very gently for about if hours.
RECIPES FOR TINNED FOODS
791
By this time the potato and onion should be cooked, and as the meat
requires no further cooking, but simply heating, it should be put into
the saucepan and well mixed with the onion and potato, and served
as soon as it has become thoroughly hot.
Time. — About if hours. Average Cost, is. 6d. Sufficient for 4 or 5
persons.
1409. — IRISH STEW. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 1 tin of boiled mutton sliced, 2 lbs. of potatoes sliced,
4 large onions thinly sliced, salt and pepper, stock or water.
Method. — Place the sliced potato and onion in alternate layers in a
stewpan, stewjar, or pie- dish, seasoning each layer liberally with salt
and pepper, add a little stock or water, cover closely, cook gently until
nearly done, then stir in the slices of meat. When thoroughly hot,
serve.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, is. 6d. to is. 8d. Sufficient
for 5 or 6 persons.
1410. — KEBOBS.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of tinned meat, 1 medium- sized onion finely
chopped, 1 dessertspoonful of curry powder, 1 egg, salt and pepper,
flour, dripping.
Method. — Mince the meat finely, stir in the onion, curry powder,
pepper and salt to taste, and the egg. Form into small balls or flat
cakes, roll lightly in flour, and fry in hot dripping until nicely
browned. Plainly boiled rice and chutney usually accompany this
dish.
Time. — About 35 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. to is. 8d. Sufficient
for 5 or 6 persons.
141 1— KIDNEYS, CURRIED.
Ingredients. — i tin of stewed kidneys, 1 tin of devilled ham, J of a
pint of curry sauce ( see Sauces, No. 241), or use a small tin of curry
sauce, croutes of toasted bread.
Method. — Heat the kidneys in the curry sauce, and meanwhile pre-
pare the croutes of toasted bread, and spread them thickly with devilled
ham (a rasher of bacon or potted ham may be substituted). Serve
the kidneys on the toast, and, if liked, the dish may be accompanied
by chutney.
Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, about 2s. 6d. Sufficient
for 6 or 8 persons.
1412. — LAMB’S SWEETBREADS.
Ingredients. — 1 tin of lamb’s sweetbreads, 1 egg, breadcrumbs, fry-
ing-fat, brown sauce ( see Sauces, No. 233).
792
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method.— Drain and dry the sweetbreads, and divide them into
neat pieces. Coat them carefully with egg and breadcrumbs, fry
in hot fat until crisp and brown, and serve piled on a hot dish. Send
the sauce to table in a sauce boat.
Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. Sufficient for 4 or 5
persons.
1413. — MEAT CAKES.
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of beef, \ a lb. of mashed potato, 2 tablespoon-
fuls of either gravy or milk, \ a teaspoonful of mixed herbs, salt and
pepper, browned breadcrumbs, 1 egg.
Method. — Remove all the fat and chop the meat finely. Heat the
milk or gravy in a saucepan, put in the meat, potato, herbs, salt and
pepper, and stir briskly over the fire for about 10 minutes ; if the
mixture is too stiff to hold together a little more gravy or milk must
be added. Spread the mixture on a plate ; when cold, divide it into
6 or 8 portions, form these into round cakes, brush them over with
egg (a little milk may be used instead ), and sprinkle with browned bread-
crumbs. Place the cakes in a greased baking-tin, put small pieces of
fat on the top of each cake and bake them in a moderate oven for
15 minutes. The cakes may also be brushed over with egg, covered
with white breadcrumbs, and fried in hot fat.
Time. — 2 hours. Average Cost, 8d. Sufficient for 3 persons.
1414. — MEAT AND EGG TOAST.
Ingredients. — Slices of bread, remains of cold meat, 2 eggs, 2 table-
spoonfuls of milk, 1 oz. of butter, 1 tablespoonful of tomato sauce,
salt and pepper.
Method. — -Cut some rounds of bread and fry them, or toast and
butter them. Mince finely any small pieces of tongue, or corned
or fresh beef. Put in a saucepan 2 eggs, 1 oz. of butter, salt and
pepper, and 2 tablespoonfuls of milk. When the eggs begin to thicken
add the meat, and, if possible, a tablespoonful of tomato sauce. Stir
the mixture over the fire until it is as thick as cream, pour it over the
toast, and serve at once.
Time.— 10 to 15 minutes. Average Cost, 6d., exclusive of the meat.
Sufficient for 3 persons.
1415. — MEAT AND MACARONI.
Ingredients. — \ of a lb. of macaroni, 2 lbs. of tinned meat, 1 oz. of
butter or dripping, 1 small onion, 1 teaspoonful of flour, 1 teaspoonful
of ketchup or other sauce, \ a pint of stock or gravy.
Method. — Put the macaroni into sufficient boiling water to cover
it and cook till tender, then cut into short lengths and keep hot. Re-
PRESERVED FOODS : TINNED AND BOTTLED,
29
C C
RECIPES FOR TINNED FOODS
793
move any jelly or gristle from the meat, and put it, together with any
bones, trimmings of meat, ham, or bacon into a saucepan with
rather more than £a pint of cold water, and simmer at least i hour.
Cut the meat into small slices, and the onions into dice. Melt
the butter or fat in a stewpan or frying-pan, fry the onion
until brown, sprinkle in the flour, cook for about io minutes, add the
gravy and sauce and stir nntil boiling. Put in the meat, baste it well
with the gravy, and when quite hot, serve on a dish with the macaroni
arranged as a border.
Time. — About i|- hours. Average Cost, is. qd. Sufficient for 4 or
5 persons.
1416. — MEAT PATTIES.
Ingredients. — For the pastry : 8 ozs. of flour, 3 ozs. of fat, 1 tea-
spoonful of baking powder, 1 saltspoonful of salt. For the mixture :
i of a lb. of beef, \ a saltspoonful of pepper, J a saltspoonful of mixed
herbs, 1 tablespoonful of gravy or water.
Method. — Cut the meat into small dice, add to it the other ingredients,
and mix them well together. The first 8 rounds cut from the pastry
should be put aside for the lids, for the cuttings, when re-rolled, may
be less light and flaky. When shallow patty-pans are used, the lids
should be a little larger than the linings of the patty-pans, so as to
easily cover the mixture, which should be piled up fairly high. Make
a small hole in the top of each patty, brush over with egg or milk,
and bake in a hot oven for about 20 minutes.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 6d.
1417. — MEAT POTTED.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of Australian meat, j- of a lb. of butter, pepper
and salt, pounded allspice.
Method. — Take 1 lb. of lean meat, removing all gristle, skin, etc.,
and flavour it highly with salt, pepper and spice. Put it in a mortar
and pound it well, adding butter at intervals until a smooth paste is
obtained. Place the meat into small pots, pressing it down tightly,
and pour clarified butter over the top.
Average Cost. — is.
1418. — MEAT AND POTATO PIE.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of mutton, 1 lb. of potatoes, 2 onions, ^ a pint of
gravy, salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the meat into small thin slices, parboil and slice the
potatoes and onions. Line the bottom of a pie-dish or earthenware
baking-dish with potato, cover with a layer of meat and a few slices of
onion, and season liberally with salt and pepper. Repeat until the
794
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
materials are used, the top layer being formed of potato. Pour in the
gravy, cover with a greased paper, and bake for about ij hours in a
moderate oven ; \ an hour before serving, remove the paper in order
that the surface may brown.
Time. — About ij hours. Average Cost, is. 4d. Sufficient for 5 or 6
persons.
1419. — MEAT SANDERS.
Ingredients. — Cold boiled potatoes, 2 ozs. of butter, salt, flour, tinned
meat, white of egg.
Method. — Rub some boiled potatoes through a sieve, or mash them
well in a basin. Add 1 or 2 ozs. of butter or dripping, salt, and suffi-
cient flour to make a paste firm enough to roll out. Cut this paste into
squares of 4 or 5 inches, put some chopped and seasoned meat in the
middle, and fold it over the same as for sausage rolls. Glaze
them with egg, and bake them in a good oven until they are brown.
Serve hot.
Time. — \ of an hour.
1420. — MEAT SHAPE.
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of beef, \ of a lb. of mashed potato, 1 slice of
stale bread (J an inch thick), 1 teaspoonful of onion (parboiled and
finely-chopped), \ of a pint of gravy or milk, browned breadcrumbs,
salt and pepper.
Method. — Break the bread into small pieces, soak them in the gravy
or milk, beat out all the lumps with a fork, and add the meat
(chopped finely). Add also the potato, onion, pepper, and a little
salt if necessary. Mix all well together ; grease a basin or mould,
coat it thickly with browned breadcrumbs, put in the mixture
and press it down firmly. Cover with a greased paper, and either
steam or bake gently for 1 hour. Serve with rich gravy.
Time.— About 1 hour. Average Cost, 6d. Sufficient for 2 or 3 persons!
1421. — MUTTON WITH CAPER SAUCE.
Ingredients. — ij lbs. of tinned mutton, f of a pint of caper sauce (see
Sauces, No. 182).
Method. — Turn the meat out of the tin, and remove all jelly and
gravy (to be afterwards converted into caper sauce). Replace the
meat in the tin, put it in a stewpan and surround it with boiling water
until thoroughly heated. Meanwhile make the sauce as directed,
us:ng the jelly and gravy with stock or water to make up the amount
required. Serve the mutton on a hot dish with the sauce poured over.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, is. 6d. Sufficient for 4 or 5
persons.
RECIPES FOR TINNED FOODS
795
1422. — MUTTON CUTLETS.
Ingredients. — 1 tin of roast mutton, 1 egg, breadcrumbs, butter or
frying-fat, of a pint of tomato sauce {see Sauces, No. 282).
Method. — Carefully remove the meat from the tin, slice it rather
thickly, and trim it to a cutlet shape, putting all jelly and trimmings
aside to be afterwards converted into croquettes, rissoles or mince.
Coat the cutlets with egg and breadcrumbs, which should be highly
seasoned to counteract the lack of flavour in the meat, fry in hot butter
or fat until nicely browned, and serve with the sauce poured round.
The dish may be varied by serving tinned peas with it, haricots verts,
flageolets, turnips and carrots, spinach or asparagus.
Time.— About \ an hour. Average Cost, is. 6d. to is. 9d. Sufficient
for 5 or 6 persons.
1423. — MEAT CROQUETTES.
Ingredient?. — \ a lb. of beef or mutton, £ an oz. of butter, an oz. of
flour, 3 level tablespoonfuls of breadcrumbs, 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of
gravy, 1 tablespoonful of Worcester sauce, \ a teaspoonful of finely-
chopped parsley, \ a teaspoonful of mixed herbs, salt and pepper,
egg, breadcrumbs.
Method. — Chop the meat finely. Heat the butter in a stewpan,
fry the onion until lightly browned, add the flour and stock, and boil
for 1 or 2 minutes. Now put in the meat, breadcrumbs, Worcester
sauce, parsley, herbs, salt and pepper, and mix well over the fire,
adding more stock or water if the preparation appears at all dry. Turn
on to a plate, and when cold divide into equal portions, form into
balls, coat with egg and breadcrumbs, and fry until nicely browned
in hot fat. If preferred, the mixture may be shaped into round cakes,
coated with flour and fried in a little hot fat in a frying-pan.
Average Cost, qd. Sufficient for 10 or 12 croquettes.
1424— RUMP STEAK PUDDING.
Ingredients. — 1 tin of rumpsteak, 1 small tin of mushrooms, 1 tin of
oysters, beef extract, salt and pepper, boiling water, suet paste {see
Pastries).
Method. — Drain the mushrooms and oysters, and divide the meat
into neat pieces. Line a basin with paste, fill it with meat, oysters and
mushrooms, in alternate layers, seasoning each layer with salt and
pepper. Make a strong gravy of meat extract and boiling water,
season to taste with salt and pepper, and pour it over the meat. Put
on a lid of paste, cover with greased paper or a pudding cloth, and either
steam or boil for about z\ hours. Add more gravy before serving.
Time. — To cook the pudding, about 2\ hours. Average Cost, 3s. 6d.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
796 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1425— SAVOURY BATTER.
Ingredients. — 4 tablespoonfuls of finely-chopped beef or mutton,
1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, \ a teaspoonful of powdered
mixed herbs, 1 saltspoonful of salt, \ a saltspoonful of pepper, 4 ozs.
of flour, 1 egg, \ a pint of milk.
Method. — Mix the flour, egg, milk and salt into a smooth batter,
let it stand for \ an hour, then add to it the meat, parsley and herbs.
Melt a little dripping in a Yorkshire pudding-tin, pour in the batter,
and bake until set in a moderately hot oven.
Time. — To bake, from 20 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. Sufficient
for 2 or 3 persons.
1426. — SHEEP’S TONGUES.
Ingredients. — 1 tin of sheep’s tongues, 1 egg, breadcrumbs, frying
fat, salt and pepper, tomato, piquant or brown sauce (see Sauces).
Method. — Turn the tongues carefully out of the tin, remove the
jelly, split each tongue in half lengthwise, and take off the skin. Coat
with egg and well seasoned breadcrumbs, fry in hot fat until well
browned, and serve with a little of the sauce poured round, and the
remainder in a sauce boat.
Time. — About \ an hour. Average Cost, is. 4d. Sufficient for 5 or
6 persons.
1427. — SHEPHERD’S PIE.
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of beef or mutton, 1 lb. of mashed potato, 1 oz.
of butter or dripping, \ a pint of gravy or stock, 1 teaspoonful of par-
boiled and finely-chopped onion, salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the meat into small thin slices. Melt half the butter
or fat in a stewpan, add to it the potato, salt and pepper, and stir over
the fire until thoroughly mixed. Place on the bottom of a greased
pie-dish a thin layer of potato, put in the meat, sprinkle each layer
with onion, salt and pepper, pour in the gravy, and cover with potato.
The potato covering may be roughed with a fork or smoothed over with
a knife : the latter method produces an appearance similar to that of
ordinary crust. Before baking, the remainder of the fat or butter
should be put on the top of the pie in small pieces, or when economy
is not an object, the appearance of the pie may be improved by brush-
ing it over with yolk of egg. Bake until the crust is well browned.
Time. — About J an hour. Average Cost, 6d. Sufficient for 2 persons.
1428. — TOAD-IN-THE-HOLE.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of beef or mutton, 4 ozs. of flour, 1 egg, \ a pint
of milk, \ a teaspoonful of salt, dripping.
RECIPES FOR TINNED FOODS
797
Method. — Cut the meat into 6 or 8 slices. Make a smooth batter
of the flour, egg, salt and milk, and let it stand for half an hour. In
a Yorkshire pudding tin melt sufficient dripping to form a layer on
the bottom, pour in about J of the batter and bake until slightly set.
Season the pieces of meat well with pepper, and also a little salt if neces-
sary, place them in the tin, pour in the remainder of the batter, and
bake in a hot oven for 25 or 30 minutes, or until the batter is sufficiently
browned.
Time. — 40 minutes. Average Cost, iod. Sufficient for 5 persons.
1429.— TONGUE, CURRIED.
Ingredients. — 1 tin of sheep’s tongues, or the remains of an ox tongue,
^ of a pint of curry sauce (see Sauces), well boiled rice, lemon-
juice.
Method. — Remove the tongues carefully from the tin, strip off the
skin, and slice rather thinly. Make the sauce as directed, put in the
sliced tongue, and when thoroughly impregnated with the flavour
of the sauce, serve either surrounded or accompanied by the rice.
Time. — About \ an hour. Average Cost, is. 3d. Sufficient for 4
persons.
Sweets.
1430.— APPLE WATER.
Ingredients. — 6 tinned apples, 1 oz. of castor sugar, 1 quart of boiling
water.
Method. — Place the apples in a jug, with a teacupful of the juice and
the sugar, add the boiling water, and cover closely. Serve cold.
Time. — 1 hour, if cooled on ice. Average Cost, 6d. Sufficient for 1
quart.
1431— APPLE COMPOTE.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of Normandy pippins, 1 oz. of almonds, blanched
and halved, 8 ozs. of castor sugar, 1 pint of water.
Method. — Soak the apples for at least 12 hours in the water, then
turn into a stewpan, add the sugar, and simmer gently until tender.
Drain, replace the syrup in the stewpan, and boil rapidly until con-
siderably reduced. Arrange the apples in a glass dish, pour the syrup
over, garnish with the prepared almonds, and when cold, serve.
Time. — 3 or 4 hours. Average Cost, iod. to is. Sufficient for 6 or 7
persons.
1432. DAMSON CHARLOTTE.
Ingredients. — 1 bottle of damsons, stale bread, f- of a pint of boiled
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custard, milk (Swiss condensed milk and water may be used), sugar,
butter, J an oz. of Swinbourne’s gelatine.
Method. — Coat a round cake tin with butter, line the side with strips
of bread, previously soaked in sweetened milk, and shape a round to
fit the bottom of the tin. Turn the damsons and their juice into a
stewpan, simmer until soft, and remove the stones. Replace the fruit
in the stewpan, sweeten to taste, add the gelatine, previously soaked
in cold water, and stir until it is dissolved. Pour the preparation into
the tin, cover with another round of soaked bread, and place the tin
under pressure until cold. Serve with the custard poured over and
round. The custard may be made of a packet of custard powder, 2
tablespoonfuls of Swiss condensed milk, and f of a pint of water.
Time. — Altogether, about 4 or 5 hours. Average Cost, is. 6d. Sufficient
for 6 persons.
1433. — RASPBERRY AND CURRANT PUDDING.
Ingredients. — 1 bottle of raspberries and currants, a pint of water,
stale bread, sugar. For the custard : 1 packet of custard powder,
2 tablespoonfuls of condensed milk, 1 pint of water.
Method. — Add \ a pint of water to the fruit and juice, cook gently
for 20 minutes, sweeten to taste and strain off the juice. Select a pie-
dish large enough to contain three-fourths of the materials, line the
bottom with a rather thin slice (or slices) of bread, and add a layer
of fruit, cover with bread, repeat until all the fruit is used, and add the
syrup, a little at a time, to avoid floating the bread. On the follow-
ing day make the custard, pour it into the pie-dish, and serve when
quite cold.
Time. — 1 day. Average Cost, is. 6d. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
1434. — STRAWBERRY MOULD.
Ingredients. — 1 packet of strawberry pudding powder, 1 pint of
milk (or 2 tablespoonfuls of Swiss milk and 1 pint of water), §■ an oz.
of butter, sugar to taste.
Method. — Mix the powder smoothly with a little cold milk, boil the
remainder of the milk, add the blended milk and powder, and stir until
boiling. Add the butter, sweeten to taste, boil gently for about 5
minutes, then turn into a wetted mould, and put aside until cold.
Time. — To make the mould, about 20 minutes. Average Cost, 6d.
Sufficient for 4 persons.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS
ON VEGETABLES
CHAPTER XXIX
Remarks on the Science of Botany and the Properties
of Vegetables.
The knowledge of plants in the earlier history of mankind was restricted
to those from which food was obtained, or were remarkable tor
their curative or poisonous nature, their relative value being determined
by practical experience. As civilization advanced, the priests, who
made a study of the medicinal properties of the plants then known to
them, were the doctors of the period, and thus the connexion between
religion and medicine which so long prevailed became established.
Hippocrates (fifth century b.c.), the “ Father of Medicine,” enumer-
ated 234 species of plants known in his time and used for medicinal
purposes. The first book, having a basis of science, was that of Aris-
totle (384-322 b.c. ), the celebrated philosopher and naturalist of
ancient Greece. His pupil, Theophrastus, describes some 500 plants
known in agriculture, domestic use, and medicine. No further progress
seems to have been made in the study of botany until the first century
a.d., when Dioscorides, a Greek physician, the author of a cele-
brated work on medicine, long a standard work, describes some
600 plants used in the healing art. Pliny the Elder (23-79 a.d.),
who perished in the eruption of Mount Vesuvius, which overwhelmed
Pompeii and Herculaneum, utilized the labours of his predeces-
sors, and collected the most interesting facts from their writings,
which he embodied in his Natural History, the only work of the
Roman naturalist now extant. The above-mentioned works on
botany were the best until the sixteenth century, and were held
in high reputation. At this period the Germans began those
investigations in this branch of science in which they have long
and honourably held a distinguished place. The first to classify
plants systematically was Caesalpinius (died 1603), dividing the vege-
table kingdom into woody and herbaceous plants. The growth of
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mercantile enterprise in the East and the discovery of America added
greatly to botanical knowledge, hampered, however, by the different
names given to the same plant by various discoverers, a difficulty
which the brothers John and Casper Banliin endeavoured to overcome.
Jung, the rector of the Gymnasium at Hamburg (died 1657), originated
the Latin system of botanical nomenclature; and in 1700 Tournefort
first classified plants into strictly defined genera founded on the form
of the flower. It was, however, reserved to Carl von Linne, more
generally known by his latinized name, Linnaeus, in the eighteenth
century, to place the science of botany on a firm foundation, and to
propound the system which bears his name. The Linnaean system,
although it possesses many advantages for the purpose of classification,
is an artificial one, the Vegetable Kingdom being divided into 24
classes (23 comprising flowering plants, the 24th including the Crypto-
gamia, or flowerless plants), dependent on the number and arrangement
of the stamens, and these, again, into orders with respect to the pistils
or carpils. Linnaeus also introduced the binomial system of classifica-
tion, by means of which every plant is distinguished by two Latin
names, the first denoting the genus, the second the species : for example,
the common hemlock is described as Conium masculatum, L., the letter
appended indicating the name of the botanist who first bestowed it.
The Linnaean system has since been superseded by the natural system,
originally promulgated by Jussieu (1748-1836) in his work “Genera
Plantarum,” the first complete exposition of the natural system, since
modified by a combination of systems proposed by De Candolle, End-
licher, Meisner, Lindley, Sir W. and Dr. J. H. Hooker, Bentham, and
other botanists. The natural system divides the Vegetable Kingdom
into two great sections, Cryptogamia, or plants destitute of flowers,
containing anthers, and Phanerogamia, or plants containing the organs
above specified.
Lichens and Mosses. — These low classes of cryptogamous plants are
widely distributed over the surface of the earth, the lichens being most
abundant in the colder regions of the globe, and are of considerable
importance in the economy of nature. They assist materially in the
creation of the soil, and thrive in the coldest and most sterile situations,
many of them growing on the barest rocks and receiving no other
nourishment than that afforded by air and rain. They pass into a
state of decay, and by their debris sustain other species, which in their
turn supply nourishment to other plants. This continuous process of
growth and decay assists by chemical and mechanical action in the
disintegration of rock, and forms a soil sufficient to maintain larger
plants, which also die and decay, and thus the soil is increased until it
is sufficiently deep to sustain the beech or oak, or even the trees of a
tropical forest. Some species of lichens are useful as articles of food
to the inhabitants of the northern regions and their domesticated
animals, as the “ Iceland moss ” (Cetraria islandica), which contains
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON VEGETABLES 801
the gelatinous substance lichenin, and the “ reindeer moss ” (Cla^onia
rangiferina), which grows abundantly in the Arctic regions, and forms
the chief nourishment of the reindeer. Other lichens are valuable for
medicinal purposes, as Parmelia parietina, used as a remedy for fever.
Several other lichens such as “ Roccella tinctoria ” are employed in
dyeing important shades of crimson and purple in silk and wool. This
colouring matter, known as areliil, or orchil, is obtained from various
lichens natives of the rocks of the Canary and the Cape de Verd Islands,
and is principally used in conjunction with aniline dyes to improve
their tints. The Parmelia esculent a of Asia Minor and the Sahara
is identified by some with the “ Manna ” of Scripture.
In the vicinity of lichens, the Musci, or mosses, are generally to be
found. Like the lichens, wherever vegetation can be sustained they
are present, affording protection to the roots and seeds of more highly
organized plants, and by their spongy texture retaining moisture which
preserves other plants from the drought of summer. Mosses abound
in our pastures and woods, attaching themselves both to the living and
dead trunks and branches of trees. They also grow luxuriously in
marshy places, and become a medium for the conversion of these into
fruitful fields. The bog-mosses (Sphagnaceae) grow in water or on some
solid sub-stratum, and contribute largely to the formation of peats.
When nature has provided a soil, her next care is to perfect the
growth of her seeds and then to disperse them. This is effected by
the structure and arrangement of the seed varying according to the
nature of its particular habitat. When the seed, or mature ovule,
is ripe, it bursts the capsule in which it is contained and falls to the
ground, or is scattered by the wind. Some seeds, as the Cuckoo-flower
(Cardamine pratensis), escape by an elastic jerk at the moment of their
explosion, and by this means are cast to a distance. Others like
those of the maple, elm, and ash have wing-like appendages which
enable the seed to be carried in the air; others again, like the thistle
and dandelion, are provided with downy hairy filaments, by means
of which they are conveyed long distances by the breezes.
Birds, quadrupeds and insects are likewise the means of dispersing
the seeds of plants, and placing them in situations where they ultimately
grow. Amongst the latter is the squirrel, which is an extensive planter
of oaks. It is related that a gentleman was walking one day in some
woods belonging to the Duke of Beaufort, near Troy House, in Mon-
mouthshire, when his attention was arrested by a squirrel, sitting very
composedly upon the ground. He stopped to observe its movements.
In a short time the little animal suddenly quitted its position, and darted
to the top of the tree beneath which it had been sitting. In an instant
it returned with an acorn in its mouth, and with its paws began to
burrow in the earth. After digging a small hole, it deposited in it an
acorn, which it hastily covered, and then darted up the tree again.
In a moment it was down with another which it buried in the same
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HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
manner; and so continued its labour, gathering and burying, as long
as the gentleman had patience to watch it. This industry in the squirrel
is an instinct which directs it to lay up a store of provision for the
winter; and it is proba'ble that its memory is not sufficiently retentive
to recollect all the spots in which it deposits its acorns; it no doubt
makes some slips in the course of the season, and loses some of them.
These few spring up, and are, in time, destined to supply the place of
the parent tree. As with the squirrel, so with the jays and pies, which
plant horse-beans among the grass and moss, and probably forget
where they have secreted them. John White of Selborne, the naturalist,
said that both horse-beans and peas sprang up in his field-walks in the
autumn; and he attributed the sowing of them to birds. Bees, he also
observed, are much the best setters of cucumbers. If they do not
happen to take kindly to the frames, the best way is to tempt them
with a little honey put on the male and female bloom. When they are
once induced to haunt the frames they set all the fruit, and will hover
with impatience round the lights in a morning till the glasses are
opened. The important function which insects discharge in the
fertilization of plants will be familiar to all who have read the late
Mr. Darwin’s works.
Some of the acorns planted by the squirrel of Monmouthshire may
be now in a fairway to become, at the end of some centuries, venerable
trees, for not the least remarkable quality of oaks is the strong principle
of life with which they are endued. In Major Rooke’s Sketch of the
Forest of Sherwood, we find it stated that, on some timber cut down
in Berkland and Bilhaugh, letters were found stamped in the bodies
of the trees, denoting the King’s reign in which they were marked.
The bark appears to have been cut off, and then the letters to have
been cut in, and the next year’s wood to have grown over them without
adhering to where the bark had been cut out. The ciphers were found
to be of James I, William and Mary, and one of King John. One
of the ciphers of James was about one foot within the tree, and one foot
from the centre. It was cut down in 1786. The tree must have been
two feet in diameter, or two yards in circumference, when the mark
was cut. A tree of this size is generally estimated at 120 years’ growth;
which number being substracted from the middle year of the reign of
James, would carry the year back to 1492, which would be about the
period of its being planted. The tree with the cipher of William and
Mary displayed its mark about nine inches within the tree, and three
feet three inches from the centre. This tree was felled in 1786. The
cipher of John was eighteen inches within the tree, and rather more
than a foot from the centre. The middle year of the reign of that
monarch was 1207. By subtracting from this 120, the number of
years requisite for a tree’s growth to arrive at the diameter of two feet,
the date of its being planted would seem to have been 1085, or about
twenty years after the Conquest.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON VEGETABLES 803
Science tends more and more to show that a closer affinity exists
between plants and animals than was formerly believed, and conse-
quently the old “ hard and fast ” division made by older naturalists
cannot now, in the presence of the facts established by microscopic
research, be maintained. Some animals, as, for example, the sea-
anemone, have no power of locomotion or the ability to effect changes
of place at will; on the other hand, some plants are endowed with the
power of voluntary movements, apparently spontaneous and inde-
pendent. In certain cases these movements are effected by means of
little vibrating hairs or cilia, in others, as the Diatomaceae, and Desmi-
diae, they are not produced by cilia, but by some other means. In
general terms the differences between animals and plants may be stated
as follows, it being borne in mind that the rules are not universally
applicable, some tungi, for instance, cannot live on inorganic sub-
stances alone, while some of the lower forms of animal life act like plants
and manufacture organic compounds out of inorganic materials.
1. Plants live on purely inorganic substances, such as water, carbonic
acid and ammonia, and they have the power of making out of these
true organic substances, such as starch, cellulose, sugar, etc. Plants,
therefore, take as food very simple bodies, and manufacture them
into more complex substances, so that plants are the great producers
in nature.
2. Plants in the process of digestion break up carbonic acid into the
two elements of which it is composed, namely, carbon and oxygen,
keeping the carbon and setting free the oxygen. As carbonic acid
occurs always in the air in small quantities, the result of this is that
plants remove carbonic acid from the atmosphere, and give out oxygen.
3. Animals, on the other hand, have no power of living on inorganic
matters, such as water, carbonic acid, and ammonia. They have
no power of converting these into the complex organic substances of
which their bodies are composed. On the contrary, animals require
to be supplied with ready-made organic compounds if their existence
is to be maintained. These they can only get in the first place from
plants, and therefore are all dependent upon plants for food either
directly or indirectly. Animals, therefore, differ from plants in re-
quiring as food complex organic bodies, which they ultimately reduce
to very much simpler inorganic bodies. Whilst plants, then, are the
great manufacturers in Nature, animals are the great consumers. An-
other distinction arising from the nature of their food is that whilst
plants decompose carbonic acid, keeping the caibon and setting free
the oxygen, animals absorb oxygen and give out carbonic acid, so that
their reaction upon the atmosphere is the reverse of that of plants.
A certain analogy may be observed between the organs of life in
plants and those of animals. If, for example, we take a thin transverse
slice of the stem of any plant, and cut across that stem and immerse
it in pure water, and place it under a microscope, we shall find that it
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HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
consists principally of cells of various shapes according to particular
plants. The cells, which are generally very minute, are the elementary
organs, and although the cell may vary in form, in its essential nature
it is always the same. Most cells are inclosed by a cell-wall, and contain
a watery cell-sap, and a mucilaginous semi-fluid substance called proto-
plasm, composed of different organic constituents ; among these nitro-
genous or albuminous matter is always present, and in the largest
proportion. In some plants the protoplasm is not at first inclosed by
cell-walls, but it is sooner or later enclosed in a more or less elastic
membrane. No cell can exist in a living state or grow unless it con-
tains protoplasm, which is therefore the basis of all vegetable life.
In addition to protoplasm and the watery cell-sap, there exists in the
cell various substances and gases in a state of solution, albumins, pro-
teins, etc., and chlorophyll, the green colouring matter in plants,
which always occurs combined with protoplasm. The action of
chlorophyll in the life of a plant is important, as it breaks up the car-
bonic acid gas taken in by the plant into its two elements, oxygen and
carbon, converting the carbon with the water in the plant into starch,
and giving back the oxygen to the air. Light is indispensable for the
production of chlorophyll; without light plants become bleached or
etiolated, a circumstance utilized by the gardener to produce a blanched
appearance on certain vegetables. Those parts of a plant which are
not green, as the petals of flowers, owe their colour to the presence of
peculiar pigments which give their tint to the blossom.
The forms of the cells are various; they are also subject to various
transformations. Sometimes a number of cells are laid end to end,
and, by the absorption of the transverse partitions, form a continuous
tube, as in the sap vessels of plants, or in muscular and nervous fibre;
and when the cells are thus woven together, they are called cellular
tissue, which, in the human body, forms a fine net-like membrane,
enveloping or connecting most of its structures. In pulpy fruits,
the cells may be easily separated, one from the other; and within the
cells are smaller cells, commonly known as pulp. Among the cells
contents of some plants are beautiful crystals, called raphides. The
term is derived from “ raphis,” a needle, on account of the resemblance
of a crystal to a needle. They are composed of the phosphate and
oxalate of lime; but there is a great difference of opinion as to their use
in the economy of the plant. The differences between the highest
form of crystal and the lowest form of organic life known, viz., a simple
productive cell, are manifold and striking. In a layer of an onion,
a fig, a section of garden rhubarb, in some species of the aloe, in the bark
of many trees, and in portions of the cuticle of the medicinal squill,
bundles of these needle-shaped crystals are to be found. Some of them
are as large as i-40th of an inch, others are as small, as i-ioooth.
They are found in all parts of the plant — in the stem, bark, leaves,
stipules, petals, fruit, roots, and even in the pollen, with some few
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON VEGETABLES 805
exceptions, and they are always situated in the interior of cells. Some
plants, as many of the cactus tribe, are made up almost entirely of
these needle-crystals; in some instances, every cell of the cuticle con-
tains a stellate mass of crystals; in others the whole interior is full of
them, rendering the plant so exceedingly brittle that the least touch
will occasion a fracture; so much so, that some specimens of Cactus
senilis, said to be a thousand years old, which were sent to Kew from
South America, were obliged to be packed in cotton, with all the care
of the most delicate jewellery, to preserve them during transport.
Besides the cellular tissue, there is a vascular system, which consists
of another set of small vessels. If, for example, we, early in the spring,
cut a branch transversely, we should perceive the sap oozing out from
numerous points over the whole of the divided surface, except on that
part occupied by the pith and the bark; and if a twig, on which the
leaves are already unfolded, be cut from the tree, and placed with
its cut ends in a watery solution of Brazil-wood, the colouring matter
will be found to ascend into the leaves and to the top of the twig. In
both these cases, a close examination with a powerful microscope will
discover the sap exuding from the divided portion of the stem, and the
colouring matter rising through real tubes to the top of the twig;
these are the sap or conducting vessels of the plant. If, however,
we examine a transverse section of the vine, or of any other tree, at a
later period of the season, we find that the wood is apparently dry,
whilst the bark, particularly that part next the wood, is swelled with
fluid. This is contained in vessels of a different kind from those in
which the sap rises. They are found in the bark only in trees, and may
be called returning vessels, from their carrying the sap downwards
after its preparation in the leaf. It is believed that the passage of the
sap in plants is conducted in a manner precisely similar to that of the
blood in man, from the regular contraction and expansion of the vessels;
but, on account of their extreme minuteness, it is almost an impossi-
bility to be certain upon this point. Numerous observations made
with the microscope show that their diameter seldom exceeds a 3000th
part of an inch. Leuwenhoeck reckoned 20,000 vessels in a piece of
oak 1 -19th of an inch in size.
In the vascular system of a plant we at once see the great analogy
which it bears to the veins and arteries in the human system; but
neither it, nor the cellular tissue combined, is all that is required to
perfect the production of a vegetable. There is, besides, a tracheal
system, which is composed of very minute elastic spiral tubes, designed
for the purpose of conveying air both to and from the plant. There
are also fibres, which consist of collections of these cells and vessels
closely united together. These form the root and the stem. If we
attempt to cut them transversely we meet with difficulty, because we
have to force our way across the tubes, and break them; but if we slit
the wood lengthwise the vessels are separated without breaking. The
8o6
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
layers of wood which appear in the stem or branch of a tree cut trans-
versely, consist of different zones of fibres, each the produce of one
year’s growth, and separated by a coat of cellular tissue, without
which they could not be well distinguished. Besides all these, there
is the cuticle, which extends over every part of the plant, and covers
the bark with three distinct coats.
The root and the stem finally demand notice. The root is designed,
not only to support the plant by fixing it in the soil, but also to fulfil
the functions of a channel for the conveyance of nourishment; it is
therefore furnished with pores, or spongioles, as they are called, from
their resemblance to a sponge, to suck up whateveY comes within its
reach. It is found in a variety of forms, and hence its adaptation to
a great diversity of soils and circumstances. We have heard of a
willow-tree being dug up, and its head planted where its roots were,
and these suffered to spread out in the air like naked branches. In
course of time the roots became branches, and the branches roots, or
rather roots rose from the branches beneath the ground, and the
branches shot from the roots above. Some roots last one year, others
two, and others, like the shrubs and trees which they produce, have an
indefinite period of existence; but they all consist of a collection of
fibres, composed of vascular and cellular tissues, without tracheae, or
breathing-vessels. The stem is the grand distributor of the nourish-
ment taken by the roots to the various parts of the plant. The seat
of its vitality is in the point or spot called the neck, which separates
the stem from the root. If the root of a young plant be cut off, it will
shoot afresh; if the stem be taken away it will be renewed.
Vegetables. — We here take the word “ vegetable ” in its usual
acceptation, and not in its literal meaning. We will now more specially
consider those vegetable foods that are eaten with, and to some extent
supply the deficiences of, meat.
For convenience sake, these vegetables may be divided into four
classes : i, roots and tubers; 2, pulses; 3, leaves and salads; 4, fungi.
It is a rough classification, and some vegetables will not fall of them-
selves into either class, but it will serve for our present purpose.
Roots and Tubers. — Of roots and tubers the principal one is the potato.
Brought from South America by Sir Francis Drake and Sir Walter
Raleigh, it was a long time creeping into public favour, and even in the
eighteenth century we find Bradley, a considerable authority on gardens,
writing: “ They are of less note than horseradish, radish, scorsonera,
beets, skirret, but as they are not without admirers I will not pass
them by in silence.” In Mortimer’s Garden Kalendar, written in
the 1 8 th century ago, he tells how, when he had to feed the poor of
Munich, the prejudice against potatoes was so strong that he was
obliged to prepare them in secret, and to let none of the people know
what thickened the soup they liked so well, but when once accustomed
to the new food they preferred it to any other soup.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON VEGETABLES 807
Potato as Food.— No doubt much of its popularity is due to its cheap-
ness, its good keeping power, and its unobtrusive flavour. Since the
potato disease it has not always been as cheap as once it was, but it
still remains one of the cheapest, if not the cheapest, of foods. We
have cheap corn now, and if potatoes and corn were the same price
per pound, corn would be the cheaper of the two. For potatoes are very
watery. Three-quarters of the weight of every potato is water, and
of the remaining quarter half is starch, there being much less of flesh-
forming material than in many other cheap foods. If a man had to
live on potatoes alone, he must eat many pounds weight daily in order
to obtain flesh- formers enough to do even moderate work. The Irish,
who do live on potatoes, add buttermilk to supply what is wanting,
and even so consume immense quantities of vegetables. Potato,
however, besides starch and water, contains much ash or salt, and is
for that reason an excellent anti-scorbutic. It is a strange fact that
many English people, from one week’s end to another, eat no vegetable
except potato, an exotic, acclimatised here at the cost of much pains
and perseverance.
The potato belongs to the order Solanaceae, to which also belong
some of the deadliest poisons we possess, and also contains a poisonous
principle known as solanine. Potatoes that have been frozen rapidly
decompose, because, owing to the freezing of the water that they
contain, the cells are burst and broken. They also deteriorate if they
are allowed to sprout. Some or all of the starch is changed to dextrine,
a gummy substance with a sweetish taste, which no longer assumes a
mealy appearance on boiling as does a starchy potato. The waste
in boiling is much less if the tubers are boiled in their skins, which are
of a cork-like substance impervious to water. There is also considerable
waste in peeling potatoes, owing to the fact that the least watery
and most albuminous part of the tubers lies immediately under the
skin. It is said that one seventh of every potato is wasted by the
common method of cooking.
Potato starch is largely used to adulterate other farinaceous prepara-
tions, as it is the cheapest form of starch. It is, however, stated that
it turns watery sooner than other starches if allowed to stand after it
is cooked.
Vegetables of the Olden Time. — Not only potatoes, but many other
vegetables now common, were unknown to our forefathers even a few
centuries back, and the fruits were very different to those at present
produced in England. The following extract, from Professor Thorold
Rogers’ well-known work on the History of Prices, serves to show the
then existing state of things.
“ The manor house possessed a garden and orchard. But the former
was very deficient in vegetables. The householder of the thirteenth
and fourteenth centuries grew onions and leeks, mustard, and garden
or green peas. He probably possessed cabbage, though I have never
8o8
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
found either seed or plants quoted. Apples, and sometimes pears;,
are mentioned as part of the orchard produce, but we read of no plums
except once of damsons. A regular part of the produce of the orchard!
was cider, and its low price seems to suggest that it was made in con-
siderable quantities. Crabs were collected in order to manufacture
verjuice — an important item in mediaeval cookery. Bees, though
honey was dear, and wax very high priced, do not seem to have been
commonly kept.
“ Scurvy in its most violent forms, and leprosy, modified perhaps by
the climate, were common disorders, for, as has often been said, the
people lived on salt meat half the year, and not only were they without
potatoes, but they do not appear to have had other roots now in com-
mon use, as carrots and parsnips. Onions and cabbage appear to have-
been the only esculent vegetables. It will be found that nettles (if:
we can identify those with urticae) were sold from the garden. Spices-,,
the cheapest of which was pepper, were quite out of their reach. Sugar
was a very costly luxury, and our forefathers do not appear, judging
from the rarity of the notices, to have been skilful in their management
of bees.”
Value of Vegetable Food. — If potatoes are watery, most of the roots
and tubers we have now to consider are even more so. Out of every
ioo lbs. of potatoes, 7 5 lbs. are water; out of every 100 lbs. of carrot,
89 lbs. ; of turnips, 92 lbs. ; of the artichoke, 80 lbs. ; of onion, 91 lbs. ; of
the 8 or 10 lb. that remain, there is sometimes starch, sometimes an
analogous substance known as inulin, and there are 1 or 2 lbs. of albumin-
oids. In all, too, there is a considerable amount of cellulose and woody
fibre, both of which are indigestible. We must ascribe their chief
value to the salts they contain and to the value of variety in food.
They also introduce into the system some water, necessary for digestion
and assimilation. It is much to be regretted that, by the manner of
cooking vegetables that prevails in this country, a great part of these
salts is dissolved in water and thrown away, only the vegetable itself
being eaten. All vegetables are best when they are grown quickly,,
in which case they have less woody fibre. Sometimes light is excluded,
for light leads to the development of chlorophyll, and also of the char-
acteristic principle of the plant, which is often unpleasantly pungent
and occasionally unwholesome.
Fresh Vegetables. — All green vegetables should be as fresh as possible.
A large number of those sold in towns are plucked days before, full
of sap, and stacked in heaps under circumstances the most favourable
to fermentation, and sufficiently accounts for the unpleasant results
often experienced after eating cabbages, etc., in such a state.
Dried Vegetables.— Many vegetables are now sold dried and compressed.
Sliced carrots, turnips, cauliflowers, etc., suitable for julienne soups,
or stews, are often useful to the housewife when such vegetables are
out of season and dear, and also when economy of time is necessary,
VEGETABLES
Onions, Shallots, Spanish Onions, Turnips, Cauliflower, Colletts, Marrow, Savoy,
Asparagus, Haricot Beans.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON VEGETABLES 809
but they are not as well flavoured as the fresh vegetable. Granulated
potato, sold in packets, is a preparation that is useful in the same way.
It only requires to have boiling water poured on it, and in ten minutes
is ready to serve as mashed potato, or to be made into fritters, etc.
Potatoes, like other vegetables, however, are now sliced, and “ eva-
porated ” or dried.
Pulses afford the most nourishing food that we know. Lentils,
beans, and peas in point of nourishment stand in the order in which
we have placed them, though very near together, lentils heading the
list with 14 per cent, of water and 24 per cent, of casein. The well-
known Ravelenta Arabica contains lentil flour, generally mixed with
barley or other meal, and salt. But it is sold at many times the price
of any of its ingredients. The celebrated sausage served out to the
German troops during the war of 1870-71, was made of peas, bacon
and onions. Each one weighed a pound, and could be made into soup
or eaten in sausage form. They were easily carried and kept, and
contained the requisite proportions of the various kinds of food, but
we are told that the men tired of it in a few days. It appears to be the
fact that the pulses cannot be used as the only flesh-forming food,
and taken even in moderation they disagree with some persons. Gener-
ally, however, they are relished if so prepared that the tough skin is
removed, and for this reason there is no way of cooking them more
suitable than as puree soups, where they require for nourishment’s
sake no addition of meat, owing to the amount of albuminoid, which
is far greater than in meat itself. They do require added fat. Green
peas are more digestible, but less nourishing, than dried or even than
full-grown peas, which require prolonged boiling to make them diges-
tible. Bi-carbonate of soda, usually added to green vegetables to
preserve the colour, at the same time softens the cellulose. Conse-
quently it is a useful addition to old green peas, or to any of the
dried pulses.
Many varieties of dried beans are sold, and all, considered as food,
have much the same value. French beans are eaten in an unripe state,
pod and young seeds together, in which state they more nearly approach
to other green vegetables than to the dried pulses.
Lentils are of two kinds, the orange-coloured Egyptian and the
browner German lentil. The former is cheaper, the latter better
flavoured.
Pea and lentil flour is often adulterated with other flour, which
diminishes its food value.
Salads generally contain no flesh-forming or heat-giving material,
but they are valuable because they introduce into the system large
quantities of saline matter, which is generally removed from vegetables
in the process of cooking. Their value in this way to the poorer in-
habitants of our towns is scarcely to be over-rated. Sufficient care
is not, however, always bestowed upon cleansing them, and there is
8io
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
no doubt that parasitic animals are sometimes introduced into the
human body through such negligence. They need to be freshly
gathered in order to be wholesome, although they may regain some of
their crispness if the stalks are freshly cut and placed under water.
Many salad plants contain some essential oil, to which their character-
istic flavour and odour are due. Lettuce has, besides, a small quantity
of mild narcotic, the effects of which may occasionally be observed.
Fungi are comparatively little used in this country, although they are
plentiful and highly nutritious. Only three kinds are commonly
considered as good for food, and of these only one can be said to be
usually eaten. These are the mushroom, agaricus campestris; the
morel, morchella esculenta; and the truffle, tuber cibarium. No doubt
there are many other edible kinds, but the prejudice against them is
strong, and the difficulty of distinguishing between edible and poisonous
kinds prevents these foods from being more generally utilized. It
seems, too, as if even the edible kinds might become poisonous under
certain special conditions. Mushrooms contain much nitrogen and
also much fat, and they are less watery than most of the vegetables
of which we have spoken.
Lichens have not often been used as food. Iceland moss is used as
a food for invalids, and is nourishing. It grows where nothing else will
grow, on barren rocks in northern latitudes.
Seaweeds are occasionally employed as food in England. Irish moss,
or carra geen, is given in the form of soups and jellies to consumptive
patients, and is also used commonly as a food in some places. In
ioo lbs. of the moss there are only 19 lbs. of water and 9 lbs. of albumin-
oids, so that it is among the most nourishing vegetable foods we have.
Laver, tangle, or red ware, and pulse, are also collected and eaten in
pickle, or as a substitute for other boiled vegetables.
LITTLE KNOWN VEGETABLES
There are many delicious vegetables which may be procured without
much difficulty, and yet hardly seem to be known to the average
housewife. Notwithstanding this, we so often hear the cry for greater
variety. To those really anxious to extend their list of nourishing
and appetising viands we can recommend sorrel, scorzonera, sweet
potato, and maize (all of which may be grown in England), yams,
egg-plants, and custard apples. Sorrel is not much used except as a
flavouring herb for soups, but if carefully picked, washed, thoroughly
boiled, then beaten and passed through a sieve, and served whipped
with butter or cream, it rivals spinach, especially as an accompaniment
to veal or poached eggs. It is a most wholesome vegetable, and can
be grown easily. Scorzonera is a long black root, with a white in-
terior; boiled and served with melted butter, it possesses a pleasant
mucilaginous flavour. It is an Italian root, but flourishes here.
Sweet potatoes deserve to receive more intelligent attention in
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON VEGETABLES 8n
the kitchen. They can be served up like Jerusalem artichokes.
Maize, although it will hardly ripen in these islands, except in
an exceptionally hot summer, can be cultivated in the south-
ern counties and in sunny sheltered spots. It is a very grace-
ful plant, and the cobs reach sufficient maturity to furnish the
“ green-pea ” maize. Riper cobs are imported from the Continent
and the Canaries. There are many hundred varieties of maize, the
grains ranging from soft pulp of almost pure white, through different
stages of yellow, to a blood red and a purple black. The most useful
kinds are the sweet yellow. The grains when full-sized and just turning
yellowish-green, may be removed from the cobs and treated like green
peas, or the cobs may be stewed; when the grains have turned yellow
and begin to harden, the cobs may be roasted, sprinkled with pepper
and salt, and basted with oiled butter. Yams are very delicious;
they grow to a large size, and are now imported from the West Indies.
They may be roasted, or treated like artichokes. Custard apples also
reach us in fine condition from the West Indies, and should be served
in the same way as vegetable marrows. Egg plants (the much-prized
bringauls of India) are imported from the Continent and the Canaries.
They possess a delicate flavour, a large amount of nourishing sub-
stances, and may be cooked in many ways. Pumpkins might also
be used more often by town dwellers, both for making puree soups
on damp and bleak autumn days, and pies. In certain country dis-
tricts the young shoots of hops are treated like asparagus with very
satisfactory results. In Provence the midribs of beet leaves are peeled,
dipped in egg batter, and fried. They make a dainty dish. So do
the male flowers of the vegetable-marrows, stuffed with parboiled
rice, mixed with a little cheese and shredded meat, and then stewed
gently in gravy.
RECIPES FOR COOKING
VEGETABLES.
CHAPTER XXX
The time vegetables take to boil depends on their age. Young vege-
tables with tender fibres will, as a rule, cook in about 20 minutes,
whereas those fully matured, and consequently containing a
relatively larger amount of fibrous substance, will average no less
than 40 minutes. The colour of green vegetables may be preserved
by adding a little soda to the water in which they are boiled. The
discoloration is due to hard water holding in solution a certain
amount of lime, which is destroyed by the addition of a little soda,
thereby softening the water and preserving the colour of the vege-
tables. As soon as the vegetables are sufficiently cooked they
should be removed from the saucepan and drained, otherwise they
absorb water, lose some of their flavour, and become discoloured.
GENERAL RULES FOR BOILING VEGETABLES.
All vegetables should be put into boiling water, to which salt should
be added in the proportion of 1 tablespoonful to 2 quarts of water.
The salt greatly improves the flavour of the vegetables, and it also
raises the boiling point of the water, thus tending to preserve their
colour. Plenty of water should be used for green vegetables, and a
little soda to soften the water and counteract the hardening effect
of the salt. All vegetables must be kept boiling, but Jerusalem
artichokes, vegetable marrows, and others of a similar character,
must be boiled more gently than cabbage and other greens, otherwise
they may break. As soon as the vegetables are sufficiently cooked the
water should be drained from them, for some are liable to break, and
one and all become watery when kept in the water after they are
done. They may, however, be covered with a cloth, and kept hot
in a colander placed over an empty iron saucepan for a consider-
able time without injury.
GENERAL RULES FOR STEWING VEGETABLES,
The long, slow process of stewing is not often applied to green vege-
tables, for it would destroy their colour, but celery, celeriac, salsify,
and cardons are frequently stewed, the method being peculiarly adapted
to them when old. Very little stock or water should be used, and the
vessel containing these vegetables must be kept closely covered to
prevent the escape of the steam, which helps to cook them.
1435.— ARTICHOKES, BOILED. (Fr.- — Artichauts au
Naturel.)
Ingredients. — 2-3 Globe artichokes, salt, Hollandaise or other suitable
sauce.
812
RECIPES FOR COOKING VEGETABLES
813
Method. — Wash the artichokes in several waters, cut off the stems,
and, if necessary, trim the leaves. Put them into boiling water, "add
about 1 teaspoonful of salt to each quart of water, and if the water be
hard, or the vegetable old, also add a piece of soda, the size of a Spanish
nut. Keep the saucepan uncovered, and boil quickly from 25 to 30
minutes, or until the vegetables are tender. Drain well, and serve
with Hollandaise, white, or other suitable sauce, or, if preferred, oiled
butter.
Time.— From 25 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, from 3d. to 6d. each.
Seasonable, from July to October.
Compositae, or Composite Plants. — This natural order is the most extensive and universally
distributed of herbs and shrubs. The flowers are monopetalous, and from the form of its corolla are
divided into three natural groups or sub-orders : Tubuli florae, Labiati florae, and I.iguliflorae ; the last
comprises plants belonging to this order, which grow in colder and temperate climates, and the former
tropical and extra-tropical plants. Included among the Compositae are many familiar and useful
plants, as the daisy, dandelion, aster, chicory, lettuce, artichoke, arnica, chamomile, etc.
1436. — ARTICHOKES, FRENCH METHOD OF
COOKING. (Fr.— Artichauts aux Fines Herbes.)
Ingredients. — Globe artichokes, a small bunch of savoury herbs, salt,
oiled butter.
Method.— Prepare the artichokes as directed in the preceding recipe.
Place them in boiling water, add the herbs and a little salt, boil until
tender, then drain well, and serve with oiled butter.
Time. — To cook the artichokes, 25 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, 3d.
to 6d. each. Allow \ a large artichoke or 1 small one to each person.
Seasonable from July to October.
1437. — ARTICHOKES, FRIED. (Fr.— Artichauts Frits.)
Ingredients. — 6 artichokes. For the batter : 2 tablespoonfuls of
flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of milk, 1 tablespoonful of salad-oil, 1 egg,
salt.
Method. — Trim and boil the artichokes as in the preceding recipe.
When they are quite tender take them up, remove the fibrous internal
part, called the “ choke,” and divide the bottoms into 3 or 4 pieces,
according to size. Mix the flour, salt, salad-oil, milk and yolk of the
egg smoothly together, and let it stand for a time. When ready to use,
beat the white to a stiff froth, and stir it lightly into the batter. Have
ready a deep pan of boiling fat, dip the pieces of artichoke into the
batter, take them out on the point of a skewer, drop them into the
fat, and fry light-brown. Garnish with fried parsley, and serve with
white sauce.
Time. — 25 to 30 minutes to boil the artichokes; 5 to 7 minutes to
fry them. Average Cost, from is. iod. to 3s. Sufficient for 5 or 6
persons. Seasonable from July to October.
Constituent Properties of the Artichoke. — These are in 1,000 parts — starch, 30 ; albumen, 10 ;
saccharine matter, 148 ; gum, 12 ; fixed oil, 1 ; woody fibre, 12 ; inorganic matter, 2 7 ; water, 770.
The constituents, however, vary with the different plants and the character of the soils in which they
grow.
814 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1438. — ARTICHOKES WITH MUSHROOM SAUCE.
(Fr. — Artichauts aux Champignons.)
Ingredients. — 3 or 4 Globe artichokes, \ a lb. of mushrooms, \ a pint of
white sauce, No. 223, 1 oz. of butter, pepper and salt.
Method. — Trim the artichokes, cut them into quarters, and boil them
until tender in slightly salted water. Melt the butter in a stewpan,
peel and trim the mushrooms, fry them very gently for about 15
minutes, then add the white sauce, salt and pepper to taste, and stir
the ingredients until they boil. Drain the artichokes, arrange them
on the dish in a circle, with the leaves outwards, and pour the mush-
room sauce in the centre.
Time. — From 30 to 40 minutes, to boil the artichokes. Average Cost,
about 2S. 6d. Sufficient for 8 or 10 persons. Seasonable from July to
October.
1439. — ARTICHOKES, JERUSALEM, BOILED.
(Fr. — Topinambours au Naturel.)
Ingredients. — i£ to 2 lbs. Jerusalem Artichokes, vinegar, salt, water,
white sauce or melted butter sauce (see Sauces).
Method. — Wash the artichokes and peel them, put them at once
into the vinegar and water to preserve their colour. Have ready a
saucepan of boiling water, to each quart allow a heaped teaspoonful
of salt and a teaspoonful of vinegar, put in the artichokes, and boil
gently for about 20 minutes. They should be tried frequently after
a J of an hour, as they are apt to break and become discoloured if
overcooked. Drain well, and serve in a hot vegetable dish, with the
sauce poured over.
Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, 2d. or 3d. per lb. Seasonable
from October to June.
Uses of the Jerusalem Artichoke. — This tuberous rooted plant, with its leafy stem, from four
to six feet in height, affords excellent fodder for cattle. The tubers are also used as a nutritious
culinary vegetable. The fibres of the stem can be separated by maceration, and manufactured into
cordage or cloth ; an operation carried on in some parts of the north and west of France. The leaves
form a convenient material for the packing of fruit. One drawback to the cultivation of artichokes
in gardens is that if the soil is favourable to them, they spread rapidly, and are difficult to keep within
bounds. The artichoke is a pleasantly flavoured and nourishing vegetable.
1440. — ARTICHOKES, JERUSALEM, FRIED.
(Fr. — Topinambours Frits.)
Ingredients. — Jerusalem artichokes, frying-batter.
Method. — Prepare and parboil the artichokes, cut them into rather
thick slices, and season well with salt and pepper. Make the batter
as directed in recipe No. 1437, dipin the slices of artichokes, fry them until
nicely browned in hot fat, and drain well. Garnish with crisply- fried
parsley, and serve as hot as possible.
Time. — To parboil the artichokes, 20 minutes after the water boils;
to fry them, 6 or 7 minutes. Average Cost, 2d. to 3d. per lb. Seasonable
from October to June.
8i5
RECIPES FOR COOKING VEGETABLES
1441. — ARTICHOKES, JERUSALEM, FRIED.
{Fr. — Topinambours Frits.) (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — Artichokes, frying-fat or oil, salt and pepper.
Method. — Wash and peel the artichokes, drain them thoroughly, and cut
them into thin slices. Have ready a deep pan of hot fat or oil, and fry
the slices in a basket, a few at a time. Drain well, sprinkle with salt
and pepper, and serve them as hot and as crisp as possible.
Time. — About 20 minutes, to fry the artichokes. Average Cost, 2d.
to 3d. per lb. Seasonable from October to June.
1442. — ARTICHOKES, JERUSALEM, MASHED.
{Fr. — Puree de Topinambours.)
Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of artichokes, 1 oz. of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of
cream, salt and pepper.
Method. — Wash, peel, and boil the artichokes in the same manner as
potatoes. Drain well, rub them through a fine sieve, replace them
in the stewpan with the butter, cream and pepper, stir over the fire
until the puree is quite hot, then serve.
Time. — From 30 to 35 minutes. Average Cost, from 2d. to 3d. per lb.
Seasonable from October to June.
1443. — ARTICHOKES, JERUSALEM, WITH WHITE
SAUCE. {Fr. — Topinambours, Sauce Blanche.)
Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of artichokes, 1 quart of water (about), 1 heaped
teaspoonful of salt, 1 teaspoonful of vinegar, J- a pint of white sauce.
Method. — Wash, peel, and trim the artichokes to a cone shape.
Add the salt and vinegar to the water when boiling, put in the arti-
chokes, and boil for about 20 minutes. Drain well, serve in ^ hot
vegetable dish, and pour over the hot white sauce.
Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, from 2d. to 3d. per lb.
Seasonable from October to June.
Thf Jerusalem Artichoke. — (Fr. topinambour) This well-known plant, which derives its name
from the Italian girasole , a sunflower, was introduced into England in the sixteenth century. Its
tubers are cultivated not only as a garden vegetable, but also as an agricultural crop. By many
it is much esteemed as an esculent vegetable, when cooked in various ways, and domesticated animals
eat both the fresh foliage and the tubers with much relish.
1444. — ASPARAGUS, BOILED. ( Fr . — Asperges au
Naturel.)
Ingredients. — 1 bundle asparagus, salt, water, toast.
Method. — Scrape the white part of the stems, beginning from the
head, tie them into bundles of about 20 each, keeping all the heads
in one direction. Cut the stalks evenly, and keep the asparagus in
cold water until it is time to cook it. Have ready a saucepan of boiling
water, add a heaped teaspoonful of salt to each quart of water, put in
the asparagus, and boil gently for about 20 minutes, or until tender.
8i6
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Dish on toast, and serve with Hollandaise, white, or other suitable
sauce, or, if preferred, oiled butter.
Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, from 2s. to 3s. 6d. per 100
heads. Seasonable from April to July.
Asparagus (Fr. aspergcs). — This plant, which belongs to the natural order Liliaceae, is a native of
Great Britain. It is found growing on various parts of the sea coast, and in the fens of Lincolnshire,
but it is smaller in size than the cultivated plant. At Kynance Cove, in Cornwall, there is a rocky
island called " Asparagus Island,” from the circumstance that this plant was once cultivated there.
Asparagus is raised from seed, and the plants are usually allowed to remain in the ground for three
years before being cut, after which they yield an annual supply.
1 445. — ASPARAGUS WITH EGGS. (Fr.— Asperges
aux Oeufs.)
Ingredients. — 50 heads of asparagus, 1 pint of milk (or equal quantities
of milk and water), 1 large head of lettuce finely-shredded, 1 medium-
sized onion parboiled and cut into small pieces, 1 bay-leaf, 2 or 3 sprigs
of thyme, i-J- ozs. of butter, the yolks of 2 eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of flour,
1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, salt and pepper, 6 or 8 nicely poached
eggs.
Method. — Cut off the tops of the asparagus, and keep them in cold
water until wanted. Bring the milk to boiling point, put in the stalks
of the asparagus, lettuce, onion, bay-leaf, thyme, and salt, simmer
gently for about 20 minutes, then rub through a fine sieve. Melt the
butter in a stewpan, stir in the flour, cook slightly, then add the
puree of vegetables, the milk in which they were cooked, and stir
the mixture until it boils. Cool slightly, then add the yolks of eggs,
and cook gently until they thicken, stirring meanwhile. Prepare
the asparagus tops by boiling them from 10 to 15 minutes, and poach
the eggs and trim them to a nice round shape. Add the lemon-juice
to the puree, season to taste, pour it down the middle of a hot dish,
arrange the eggs on either side, and garnish the top of the puree in the
space between the two rows of eggs with the asparagus points.
Time. — About 40 minutes. Average Cost, from 3s. gd. to 4s. 6d.
Seasonable from April to July.
1446. — ASPARAGUS, FRENCH STYLE. (Fr.— As-
perges a la Bonne Femme.)
Ingredients. — x bundle or 100 heads of asparagus, 1 pint of milk
(or equal quantities of milk and water), 1 head of lettuce finely shredded
and cut into short lengths, 1 medium-sized onion parboiled and finely-
chopped, 1 bay leaf, one sprig of thyme, i| ozs. of butter, 2 table-
spoonfuls of flour, the yolks of 2 eggs, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice,
salt and pepper, croutes of buttered toast or fried bread, chopped
parsley, strips of cucumber.
Method. — Wash and trim the asparagus, and tie it into 3 or 4 bundles.
Bring the milk to boiling point, put in the asparagus, lettuce, onion,
VEGETABLES.
Potatoes.
Potatoes.
Tomatoes.
817
RECIPES FOR COOKING VEGETABLES
I bay-ieaf, thyme, and salt, and simmer gently for about 20 minutes.
I Drain the asparagus well, cut off the points and the edible parts of the
J stalks, and keep them hot. Strain the milk and return it to the stew-
pan, add the butter and flour previously kneaded together, and stir
jl until a smooth sauce is obtained. Beat the yolks of eggs slightly,
ji add them to the sauce, and stir until they thicken, but do not allow
I the sauce to boil, or the yolks may curdle. Season to taste, and add
I the lemon-juice. Pile the asparagus on the croutes, cover with sauce,
I garnish with strips of cucumber, and a little chopped parsley, and
I serve as a vegetable entremet, or as an entree for a vegetarian dinner.
Time. — From 30 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, 5s. 6d. to 7s. Season-
j able from April to July.
Medicinal uses of Asparagus. — Not only is”this plant valuable as a wholesome and nutritious
I vegetable, but it possesses diuretic properties, due to the presence of a crystalline substance, which
I is also found in the potato and lettuce. The chemical analysis of its juice shows the presence of a
I peculiar crystallizable principle called aspargin, albumen, mannite, malic acid, and certain salts.
I The cellular tissue contains a substance analogous to sago.
1447.— ASPARAGUS, INDIAN STYLE. (Fr.— Asperges
a l’lndienne.)
Ingredients. — Asparagus, curry sauce ( see Sauces, No. 241).
Method. — Prepare, cook and drain the asparagus ( see Asparagus,
■ Boiled), and serve with a little curry sauce, either poured over the
if points, or handed round separately.
1448.— ASPARAGUS POINTS, OR PEAS. {Fr.— Pointes
d’ Asperges.)
Ingredients. — Green asparagus, oiled butter, pepper.
Method. — Cu.t the points and the tender green parts of the aspara-
I gus into short pieces, place them in slightly-salted boiling water,
I and cook gently from 5 to 10 minutes, according to size and age.
I Drain well, put the asparagus into a stewpan containing a little oiled
I butter, sprinkle with pepper, toss over the fire for a few minutes, then
I serve either as a garnish or vegetable. It is a mistake to add anything
that will impair the delicate flavour of the asparagus, but sometimes
I a little chopped shallot and parsley are fried in the butter before putting
in the asparagus; and the dish may be still further varied by stirring
in, just before serving, either a few tablcspoonfuls of good white sauce,
or 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of thick cream and a yolk of egg.
Time. — To boil the asparagus, from 15 to 20 minutes. Average Cost,
2s. 6d. to 10s. 6d. per 100. Allow 100 points for 6 or 8 persons.
Seasonable from April to July; obtainable from January.
1449. ASPARAGUS PUDDING. {Fr.— Pouding
d’Asperges.)
Ingredients. — Jof a pint ol asparagus points, 4 eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls
8i8
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
of flour, i tablespoonful of very finely-minced ham, x oz. of butter,
pepper and salt to taste, milk.
Method. — Cut up the nice green tender parts of asparagus, about the
size of peas, put them into a basin with the eggs, which should be well
beaten, and the flour, ham, butter, pepper and salt. Mix all these
ingredients well together, and moisten with sufficient' milk to make the
pudding of a consistency of thick butter. Put it into a pint buttered
mould, tie it down tightly with a floured cloth, place it in boiling water,
and let it boil for 2 hours. Turn it out of the mould on to a hot dish,
and pour plain melted butter round, but not over the pudding.
Time. — 2 hours. Average Cost, about 3s. 6d. Sufficient for 3 or 4
persons. Seasonable from April to July.
1450. — ASPARAGUS ROLLS. ( Fr . — Petits Pains aux
Asperges.)
Ingredients. — 50 heads of asparagus, 6 small French rolls, \ a pint
of milk, 1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, the yolks of 2 eggs, salt and
pepper.
Method. — Remove the crust from the bottom of each roll, scoop out
the inside, and, if convenient, fry them in hot fat, if not, crisp them
in the oven. Boil the asparagus in the usual way, then cut off the points
and keep them hot, and rub the stalks through a fine sieve. Heat the
butter in a stewpan, stir in the flour, and cook slightly, then add the
milk, and stir until boiling. Put in the puree of asparagus and yolks
of eggs, season with salt and pepper, and stir by the side of the fire
until the mixture thickens, but it must not be allowed to boil or the eggs
may curdle. Fill the rolls, piling the preparation rather high, garnish
the top of each one with asparagus points, and serve as a vegetable
entremet, luncheon dish, or vegetarian entree.
Time. — About 40 minutes. Average Cost, from 3s. to 4s. Seasonable
from April to July.
1451. — BEANS, FRENCH, BOILED. (Fr.— Haricots
Verts au Naturel.)
Ingredients. — French beans, salt.
Method. — Cut off the heads, tails, and a thin strip on each side of the
beans, so as to remove the string. Cut the beans in a slanting direction
into slips, and, as they are cut, drop them into cold water. Have ready
a saucepan of boiling water, add 1 heaped teaspoonful of salt to each
quart of water, and a small piece of soda if the beans are old. Put in
the beans, keep the saucepan uncovered, and boil briskly from 15 to 25
minutes, according to age. Drain well, sprinkle with pepper, then
serve.
RECIPES FOR COOKING VEGETABLES
819
Time. — To boil the beans, from 15 to 25 minutes. Average Cost, from
3d. to is. per lb., according to season. Seasonable from July to October.
The Golden Bean.- — It is much esteemed in Germany, but is little known in England. It is sown
early in June, and becomes a bright golden hue in September. It should hang on the plant until
perfectly ripe. Both the pod and bean are eaten, and have a delicious taste.
1452. — BEANS, FRENCH METHOD OF COOKING.
(Fr. — Haricots Verts, a la Maitre d’Hotel.)
Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of French beans, 2 ozs. of butter, the juice of -J- a
lemon, a dessertspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut and boil the beans as in the preceding recipe; when
tender drain them into a stewpan, and shake over the fire until the
greater part of the moisture has evaporated. Add the butter, parsley,
lemon-juice, season well with salt and pepper, toss over the fire for a
few minutes, then serve.
Time. — From 20 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, from 2d. per lb. Season-
able from July to October; obtainable all the year.
Origin and Varieties of the Bean. It is uncertain from what region the bean was introduced
into other countries ; probably it first came from Asia. The bean was cultivated in ancient
Egypt, and in Europe and Asia from time immemorial, and it has been long known in Britain. Its
numerous varieties may be included under the general divisions — the white or garden-beans, and
the grey or field-beans. Of the former, are the Windsor, the Mazagan, and long pod ; of the latter,
the horse-bean, and the small or ticks, are the principal sorts. New varieties are produced in the
same manner as in other plants.
1453. — BEETROOTS, BAKED.
See Beetroot, Boiled. Recipe No. 1454.
1454. — BEETROOT, BOILED. ( Fr . — Betterave au
Naturel.)
Ingredients. — Beetroot, boiling water.
Method. — When large, young and juicy, this vegetable makes a very
excellent addition to winter salads, and may easily be converted into
an economical and quickly-made pickle ( see Pickles). Beetroot is
more frequently served cold than hot: when the latter mode is pre-
ferred, melted butter should be sent to table with it. Beetroot may
also be stewed with button onions, or boiled and served with baked
onions. Wash the beets thoroughly, but do not prick or break the
skins before they are cooked, or they will lose some of their beautiful
colour in boiling. Put them into boiling water, and let them boil
until tender, keeping them well covered. If the beets are to be served
hot, rub off the peel quickly, cut the beet into thick slices, and send
to table with melted butter. For salads, pickle, etc., let the root cool,
then peel by rubbing, and cut into slices.
Time. — Small beetroot, i£ to 2 hours; large, 2\ to 3 hours. Average
Cost, id. to 3d. each. Seasonable, at any time.
820
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Note. — In boiling beetroot great care must be taken not to damage the skin
otherwise it will “ bleed,” becoming white and tasteless. Should the skin
be accidentally broken it is better to bake them in a moderate oven, previ-
ously covering the damaged parts with a little flour paste.
Beetroot (Fr. betterave). — The geographical distribution of the natural order, Chonopodiaceae, to
which the beetroot belongs, is most common in extra tropical and temperate regions, where such plants
grow as weeds, frequenting waste places, and on marshes by the sea shore. They are characterized
by the large quantity of mucilage, sugar, starch, and alkaline salts which are found in them. Many
are used as pot-herbs, and some are medicinally valuable as vermifuges and emetics. The root of the
red beet is very wholesome and nutritious. From the white beet sugar is obtained, and the manufac-
ture of beet-sugar is an important industry in France, Germany, Belgium, Holland, and other
countries. Excellent beer is produced from the beet, which also yields a spirit of good quality.
1455. — BEETROOTS, STEWED.
See Beetroot, Boiled. Recipe No. 1454.
1456. — BROAD, OR WINDSOR BEANS. (Fr. — Feves
a la Maitre d’ Hotel.)
Ingredients. — 1 peck broad or Windsor beans, salted water, parsley
sauce (see Sauces).
Method. — This favourite vegetable to be nice should be young and
freshly gathered. After shelling the beans, put them into boiling
water, salted to taste, and boil rapidly until tender. Drain
them well in a colander ; dish, and serve separately a boat
of parsley sauce. Boiled bacon often accompanies this vegetable,
but should be cooked separately. This dish is usually served with
the beans laid round the bacon, and the parsley butter sauce in a tureen.
Beans also make an excellent garnish to a ham: when used for this
purpose they should have their skins removed.
Time. — Very young beans, 15 minutes; when of a moderate size,
20 to 25 minutes, or longer. Average Cost, unshelled, 6d. to iod. per peck.
Allow 1 peck for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable in July and August.
1457. — BROAD BEANS, WITH PARSLEY SAUCE.
(Fr.— Feves a la Poulette.)
Ingredients. — 2 pints of broad beans, £ a pint of stock, a small bunch
of savoury herbs, including parsley, a small lump of sugar, the yolk
of 1 egg, J of a pint of cream, pepper and salt to taste.
Method. — Procure some young and freshly gathered beans, and shell
sufficient to make 2 pints; boil them, as in the preceding recipe, until
nearly done, then drain them and put them into a stewpan, with the
stock, finely-minced herbs, and sugar. Stew the beans until they are
perfectly tender and the liquor has reduced a little, then beat up
the yolk of an egg with the cream, and add this to the beans. Let the
whole get thoroughly hot, and, when on the point of simmering, serve.
Should the beans be very large, the skins should be removed previously
to boiling them; they are, however, more quickly removed after they
are boiled.
RECIPES FOR COOKING VEGETABLES
821
Time. — 10 minutes to boil the beans, 15 minutes to stew them in the
stock. Average Cost, unshelled, 6d. to iod. per peck. Sufficient tor 5 or 6
persons. Seasonable in July and August.
1458. — BROAD BEANS, WITH SPANISH SAUCE.
(. Fr . — Feves a l’Espagnole.)
Ingredients. — 1 \ pints of shelled beans, J of a pint of good brown stock,
£ a glass of sherry, 1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, 1 small onion finely
chopped, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 6 or 8 button mush-
rooms, 1 bay-leaf, 2 or 3 sprigs of thyme, salt and pepper, lemon-
juice.
Method. — Shell the beans, put them into boiling water, boil rapidly
for 6 or 7 minutes, then drain, and remove the skins. Have the stock
ready boiling in a stewpan, add to it the beans, onion, thyme, and bay-
leaf, season with salt and pepper, and simmer gently from 20 to 30
minutes, according to the age of the beans. Meanwhile fry the mush-
rooms for a few minutes in the hot butter without browning, then trans-
fer them to the stewpan containing the beans. Add the flour to the
butter, cook over the fire until it acquires a nut-brown colour, then strain
in the stock from the other stewpan, and stir until a perfectly smooth
sauce is obtained. Season to taste, add the parsley, sherry and lemon-
juice, the beans and mushrooms, and when thoroughly hot, serve.
If liked, the dish may be garnished with tiny rolls of crisply-fried
bacon, croutes of fried bread, or potato croutes (see recipe No. 1576).
The sherry and mushrooms may be omitted, and the dish would
then be Broad Beans with Brown Sauce. Vegetarians could substitute
vegetable stock or milk for the meat stock.
Time. — From 35 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, is. to is. 3d. Sufficient
for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable in July and August.
1459. — GOLDEN BEANS.
See Lima, or Butter Beans. Recipe No. 1525.
1460. — BROCCOLI, BOILED.
Ingredients. — Broccoli. To each \ gallon of water allow 1 heaped
tablespoonful of salt.
Method. — Strip off the dead leaves, and cut off the inside ones level
with the flower, cut off the stalk close to the bottom, and put the
broccoli into cold salt and water, or vinegar and water with the heads
downwards. Let them remain for about f of an hour, then put them into
a saucepan of boiling water, salted in the above proportion, and keep
them boiling gently with the stalk upwards and the saucepan uncovered.
Take them up with a slice the moment they are done ; drain them well,
and serve with a tureen of melted butter, a little of which should be
822
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
poured over the broccoli. If left in the water after it is done, the broccoli
will break, its colour will be spoiled, and its crispness lost. If boiled
too fast they break.
Time. — Small broccoli, io to 15 minutes; large broccoli, 20 to 30
minutes. Average Cost, 2d. to 3d. each. Seasonable from October to March.
Note. — It is a good plan to place a small piece of toast or crust of bread
in the saucepan in which any vegetable of the cabbage tribe is boiled, as this
absorbs the unpleasant odour generated during the cooking.
The Kohl-Rabi, or Turnip Cabbage. — This variety presents a singular development. The stem
swells out like a large turnip on the surface of the ground, the leaves shoot from it all round, and
the top is surmounted by a cluster of leaves. If used when young and tender, the Kohl-rabi is a
wholesome and palatable vegetable.
1461. — BRUSSELS SPROUTS, BOILED. (Fr.— Choux
de Bruxelles a la Sauce Blanche au Beurre,
or, Maitre d’Hotel.)
Ingredients. — Brussels sprouts. To each \ gallon of water allow 1 heaped
tablespoonful of salt, a very small piece of soda, white sauce No. 222
or parsley butter.
Method. — Clean the sprouts from insects, wash them, and pick
any dead or discoloured leaves from the outsides ; put them into
a saucepan of boiling water, with salt and soda in the above proportion;
keep the pan uncovered, and let them boil quickly until tender; drain,
dish, and serve with a tureen of melted butter: maitre d’hotel sauce is
sometimes poured over them. Another method of serving is to toss
the sprouts in about 1 oz. of butter and a seasoning of pepper and salt.
They must, however, be sent to table very quickly, for on account of
the smallness of the sprouts this vegetable soon cools.
Time. — From 10 to 15 minutes, after the water boils. Average Cost,
2d. to 3d. per lb. Seasonable from September to March.
Savoys and Brussels Sprouts (Fr. chou de savoie). — When green kale, or borecole, has been further
improved by cultivation, it develops the headed or hearted type, with blistered leaves ; it is then
known by the name of savoy, and brussels sprouts. Another of its headed forms, but with smooth,
glaucous leaves, is the cultivated garden cabbage ( Borecole oleracea capitula), with all its varieties of
green, red, dwarf, tall, early, late, round, conical, flat, and other varieties.
1462. — CABBAGE, BOILED. (Fr. — Choux au
Naturel.)
Ingredients. — Cabbages. To each \ gallon of water allow 1 heaped
tablespoonful of salt, a very small piece of soda.
Method. — Pick off all the dead outside leaves, cut off as much of the
stalk as possible, and cut the cabbages across twice at the stalk end;
if very large, quarter them. Wash them well in cold water, place them
in a colander, and drain; then put them into plenty of fast-boiling
water, to which have been added salt and soda in the above proportions.
Stir the cabbages once or twice in the water, keep the pan uncovered,
and let them boil quickly until tender. The instant they are done
RECIPES FOR COOKING VEGETABLES 823
take the cabbages up into a colander, place a plate over them, let them
thoroughly drain, dish, cutting them into squares.
Time. — Small young cabbages, 15 to 20 minutes; large cabbages
and savoys, from 30 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, from id. each.
Seasonable all the year.
The Cabbage Tribe : their Origin. — Of all the species of the Cruci/erac, those of the genus Brassioa
are the most important, containing plants which, both in themselves and their products, occupy a
prominent position in agriculture, commerce, and domestic economy. In many places on the coast
of Dorsetshire, Cornwall and Yorkshire, these grow as a wild plant, with variously indented, much
waved, and loosely spreading leaves of a sea-green colour and large yellow flowers. This is the
Brassica olcracea, the wild cabbage, or colewort, from which have originated all the varieties of cab-
bage, cauliflower, greens, and broccoli.
1463. — CABBAGE, BRAISED. (Fr. — Choux braises.)
Ingredients. — Savoy cabbages, slices of fat bacon, 1 or 2 onions
1 or 2 carrots, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), stock, salt
and pepper.
Method. — Wash, trim and halve the cabbages, cover them with
boiling water, adding 1 tablespoonful of salt. Boil rapidly for 15
minutes, then drain well, and cut away the stalks. Sprinkle carefully
with salt and pepper, put 2 halves together, and fasten them securely.
Cover the bottom of a stewpan with slices of bacon, put in the cabbages,
add the onions and carrots thickly sliced, herbs, and a good seasoning
of salt and pepper. Add sufficient stock to nearly cover the cabbages,
put on a closely-fitting lid, and simmer gently for 1 hour. When ready,
remove the strings, drain well, press dry in a cloth, shape as required,
and use as a garnish to an entree.
Time. — Altogether, about \\ hours. Average Cost, cabbages, 2d.
each. Allow 1 small cabbage for 2 persons. Seasonable in winter.
1464. — CABBAGE WITH WHITE SAUCE.
( Fr .- — Choux a la Sauce Blanche.)
Ingredients. — Cabbage, } a pint of white sauce, or melted butter sauce
(see Sauces, Nos. 223 and 202). To each \ gallon of water allow 1 heaped
tablespoonful of salt, a very small piece of soda.
Method. —Pick off all dead or faded outside leaves, cut off as much
of the stalk as possible, and cut the cabbages across twice at the stalk
end; if they should be very large, quarter them. Wash them well in
cold water, and drain. Throw them into plenty of fast-boiling water,
to which have been added salt and soda in the above proportions.
Stir them down once or twice in the water, and let them boil quickly
for 8 minutes; have another saucepan with fast-boiling water prepared
as above, and throw them into it, and let them boil for 15 minutes;
cast away the water contained in the first saucepan, and fill it as before,
remove the cabbages once again into this, and let them boil for 10
minutes if small, for 20 minutes if large. Take up into a colander,
drain and press well, and season with pepper. Serve in a hot vegetable
dish, cut into squares, and pour over the sauce.
824
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Time. — 20 to 40 minutes, according to size and age. Average Cost,
from id. each. Seasonable all the year.
1465. — CABBAGE, BUTTERED. (Fr.— Choux au
Beurre.)
Ingredients. — 1 good cabbage, 2 medium-sized Spanish onions, id ozs.
of butter, salt and pepper.
Method. — Boil the cabbage and onions together, allowing a little
longer time to the latter, when the cabbage is young, then drain, and
chop finely. Heat the butter in a frying-pan, put in the vegetables,
season well with salt and pepper, fry for 10 or 15 minutes, then serve.
If preferred, a tablespoonful each of good gravy and vinegar may be
added before serving.
Time.- -About 1 hour. Average Cost, 6d. Seasonable at any time.
The Wild Cabbage, or Colewort (Fr. clionx verts). — This plant, found on the sea cliffs
of Britain, is the original of the cabbage tribe in its simplest and normal form. In this
state it is the true collet or colewort, although the name is now applied to any young cabbage which
has a loose and open heart.
1466. — CABBAGE AU GRATIN. (Fr.— Choux au
Gratin.)
Ingredients. — 1 good cabbage, 3 or 4 slices of bacon, 1 dessertspoonful
of grated cheese, 1 dessertspoonful of breadcrumbs, a pint of white
sauce (see Sauces, No. 223), 1 oz. of butter, salt and pepper.
Method. — Wash, trim, and quarter the cabbage, put it into boiling
water, add a tablespoonful of salt, and boil rapidly. When f- cooked,
drain well, chop coarsely, season with salt and pepper, and press into
a pudding basin. Place the bacon in a gratin dish, or in any fire-proof
dish that may be sent to table, invert the basin on the top, and turn
out the cabbage. Cover the surface with the mixed grated cheese and
breadcrumbs, put small pieces of butter on the top, and bake in a
moderate oven until lightly brown. Serve the sauce separately.
Time. — From 40 to 60 minutes. Average Cost, 9d. Seasonable at any
time.
Green Kale or Borecole. — When colewort or wild cabbage is brought under cultivation it be-
comes greatly improved, although it still retains its large, open leaves, and in this form is called green
kale, or borecole. The scientific name of borecole is Borecole oleracca acephala, and there are many
varieties, both in respect of the form and colour of the leaves, and the height of the plants. Among
these are included the thousand-headed, and the cow, or tree cabbage.
1467. — CABBAGE, MINCED.
Ingredients. — 1 cabbage, 3 ozs. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, 2 tablespoonfuls
of vinegar, sail and pepper, hard-boiled eggs.
Method. — Boil, press the cabbage dry, and chop it finely. Heat the
butter in a frying-pan, sprinkle in the flour, mix smoothly, and put
VEGETABLES
Shallots, Mushrooms, Leek, Parsnip, Horse-radish, Carrots, Sea-kale,
Cucumber, Sorrel, Tarragon, Celery, Mustard, Cress.
32
e e
RECIPES FOR COOKING VEGETABLES
8^5
in the cabbage. Add salt and pepper to taste, put in the vinegar, stir
over the fire for 5 or 6 minutes, then serve garnished with sections
of hard-boiled egg.
Time. — Altogether, from 1 to ij hours. Average Cost, 6d. to 8d.,
exclusive of the eggs. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any
time.
1468. — CABBAGE, RED, STEWED. (Fr. — Choux au
Jambon.)
Ingredients. — 1 red cabbage, 1 small slice of ham, \ an oz. of fresh
butter, 1 pint of fresh stock, 1 gill of vinegar, salt and pepper to taste,
1 tablespoonful of pounded sugar.
Method. — Cut the cabbage into very thin slices, put it into a stewpan,
with the ham cut in dice, the butter, \ a pint of stock, and the vinegar;
cover the pan closely, and let it stew for 1 hour. When it is very
tender, add the remainder of the stock, a seasoning of salt and pepper,
and the pounded sugar; mix the ingredients well together, stir over the
fire until nearly all the liquor has dried away, and serve. Fried
sausages are usually sent to table with this dish : they should be laid
round and on the cabbage as a garnish.
Time. — Rather more than 1 hour. Average Cost, is. without
sausages. Seasonable from September to January.
1469. — CARDOONS, BOILED. (Fr.— Cardons au
Naturel.)
Ingredients. — Cardoons, white sauce, salt.
Method. — Cut the stalks into 3-inch lengths, remove the prickles,
cover with salted boiling water, boil gently for 15 minutes, and drain
well. Rub off the skins with a cloth, replace the cardoons in the
saucepan, cover them with cold water, add a little salt, and boil until
tender. Serve with white sauce. Cardoons may also be cooked
according to the directions given for dressing celery, but in all cases
they must be blanched before cooking, in order to remove the slime.
1470. — CARROTS, BOILED. (Fr. — Carottes au Natu-
rel.)
Ingredients. — To each \ gallon of water allow 1 heaped tablespoonful
of salt, carrots.
Method.— Cut off the green tops, wash and scrape the carrots, and
remove any black specks. If the carrots are very large cut them in
halves, divide them lengthwise into 4 pieces, and put them into boiliim
water, salted in the above proportion; let them boil until tender
which may be ascertained by piercing the carrots with a skewer or
fork, then drain well. Young carrots should be boiled whole.
826
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Time. — Young carrots, about \ an hour; old ones, from i to hours.
Average Cost, young carrots, from 6d. to 8d. a bunch. Seasonable, young
carrots from April to June; old ones at any time.
1471. — CARROTS WITH PARSLEY SAUCE.
(TV. — Carottes a la Maitre d’ Hotel.)
Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of small new carrots, 1 oz. of butter, 1 dessert-
spoonful of finely-chopped parsley, the juice of \ a lemon, salt and
pepper.
Method. — Wash and trim the carrots; if very young, allow 2 or 3
of the tiny leaves at the top to remain, as this adds to the appearance
when served. Put them into boiling water slightly salted, and boil
for about 15 minutes, or until tender. When done, drain off the water,
put in the butter, parsley and lemon-juice, season with salt and pepper,
toss over the fire for a few minutes, then serve.
Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. to 8d. per bunch. Season-
able from March to June.
Constituents of the Carrot. — These contain erystallizable and uncrystallizable sugar, a small
quantity of starch, extractive gluten, albumen, volatile oil, pectin or vegetable jelly, salts, malic acid,
and a peculiar erystallizable ruby-red, odourless, and tasteless principle called carotin. Pectin
exists more or less in all vegetables, and is especially abundant in those roots and fruits from which
jellies are prepared.
1472. — CARROTS, STEWED. (Fr.— Carottes a la
Creme.)
Ingredients. — 6 or 7 large carrots, \ a pint of stock, J of a pint of milk,
1 tablespoonful of cream, 1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, salt and pepper.
Method. — Scrape the carrots, put them into boiling water, boil rapidly
until half cooked, then drain, and cut them into rather thin slices.
Heat the butter in a stewpan, stir in the flour, add the stock and milk,
and stir over the fire until a smooth sauce is obtained. Season to taste,
put in the sliced carrots, simmer very gently until they are tender,
stirring occasionally, then add the cream, and serve.
Time. — From 1 to ij hours. Average Cost, about 9d. Seasonable
at any time. Sufficient foi 5 or 6 persons.
Properties of the Carrot. — The nutritive matter of the carrot amounts to 98 parts in 1,000, of
which 95 are sugar, and 3 parts starch. The carrot is used in winter and spring in the dairy, to give
colour and flavour to butter, and is excellent in stews, haricots, soups, or, when boiled, with salt beef.
Owing to the large proportion of saccharine in its composition, the carrot yields a greater proportion
of spirit than the potato, 10 lb. weight producing \ a pint of strong spirit.
1473. — CARROTS WITH PARSLEY SAUCE.
(Fr. — Carottes a la Poulette.)
Ingredients. — I bunch of young carrots, 2 ozs. of butter, 1 gill of milk,
£ a gill of cream, the yolks of 2 eggs, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped
parsley, salt and pepper.
Method. — Blanch the carrots in boiling water for 5 minutes, rub off
RECIPES FOR COOKING VEGETABLES 827
the skins with a clean cloth, and cut the carrots into thin slices. Melt
the butter in a stewpan, add the milk, season with salt and pepper,
put in the sliced carrots, and cook gently until tender. Beat the yolks
of eggs and cream together slightly, pour into the stewpan, and stir
very gently until the eggs thicken, then add the parsley, season to taste,
and serve.
Time. — 30 minutes. Average Cost, iod. to is. Seasonable from
March to June.
The Seed of the Carrot. — To preserve the seed of the carrot, the most perfect and best-shaped
roots are annually selected in the taking-up season. These are either preserved in sand in a cellar
or dark storehouse until spring, or are planted immediately in an open airy part of the garden protected
with litter during severe frost, or earthed over and uncovered in March. In August the seed is fit
to be gathered, but is best preserved on the stalks until required.
1474. — CARROTS FOR GARNISH.
Ingredients. — Carrots, salt, rich beef or veal stock.
Method. — Trim the carrots with a round cutter, and parboil them
in salted water. Drain away the water, cover with strong stock, bod
gently until tender, then strain and keep them hot, and replace the
stock in the stewpan. Boil rapidly until reduced to a thin glaze,
then put in the carrots, shake over the fire until well coated with
glaze, and serve.
Time. — Altogether, about f of an hour. Average Cost, 2d. per lb.
Seasonable at any time.
1475. — CARROTS, GERMAN STYLE. (Fr. — Carottes
a TAllemande.)
Ingredients. — 6 carrots sliced, 2 ozs. of butter, 1 dessertspoonful of
finely-chopped onion, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 1 pint
of stock, nutmeg, salt and pepper. For the sauce : 1 oz. of butter,
1 oz. of flour, stock.
Method. — Heat 2 ozs. of butter in a stewpan, put in the carrots,
onion, parsley, and a pinch of nutmeg, and toss over the fire for a few
minutes. Add the stock, season to taste, cover closely, and simmer
gently until nearly cooked. Meanwhile heat the remaining oz. of
butter in another stewpan, add the flour, and stir and cook until nicely
browned. When ready, strain the stock from the carrots, add sufficient
stock or water to make of a pint, pour it on to the browned flour,
and stir the mixture until it boils. Add seasoning, if necessary, put
in the carrots, cook gently until quite tender, then serve.
Time. — About of an hour. Average Cost, 8d. to iod., inclusive of
the stock. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
1476. — CARROTS, GLAZED. (Fr. — Carottes en demi-
glace.)
Ingredients. — Young carrots, butter, good stock, mace, castor sugar,
salt and pepper.
828
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Scrape and trim the carrots into a good shape. Cover them
with boiling water, add a little salt, boil gently for 5 or 6 minutes,
and drain well. In a stewpan, large enough to hold the carrots in a
single layer, melt sufficient butter to just cover the bottom, then
put in the carrots. Add a good seasoning of pepper, a pinch of sugar,
sprinkle lightly with mace, and more liberally with pepper. Pour in
good stock to about half the depth of the carrots, and cover first with
a greased paper, and afterwards with a close-fitting lid. Cook gently
until tender, remove and keep them hot, and boil the stock rapidly
until reduced to a thin glaze. Replace the carrots 2 or 3 at a time,
turn them from side to side until well coated with glaze, and use as
required. ( See Recipe No. 1474, Carrots for garnish.)
1477. — CAULIFLOWER, BAKED, WITH CHEESE.
( Fr . — Choufleur au Gratin.)
Ingredients. — 2 to 3 small cauliflowers, f of a pint of white sauce
(see Sauces, No. 223), 2 tablespoonfuls of grated cheese, preferably
Parmesan, 1 tablespoonful of brown breadcrumbs, 1 oz. of butter.
Method. — Boil the cauliflowers as in the preceding recipe, drain well,
and divide them into pieces convenient for serving. Have ready a
round gratin dish, or any fireproof dish that may be sent to table, butter
it well, and in it arrange the pieces of cauliflower so as to appear as one
large one. Mix f of the cheese with the cold white sauce, and the
remainder with the breadcrumbs; pour the sauce over the cauliflower,
and cover the surface with the mixed breadcrumbs and cheese. Place
small pieces of butter on the top, and bake in a moderate oven until
well browned.
Time. — About 40 minutes. Average Cost, iod. to is. Seasonable
from June to October; broccoli from October to March.
Cauliflower and Broccoli (Fr. choufleur et brocoli). — These are only forms of the wild cabbage
in its cultivated state. The purple and white broccoli are varieties of the cauliflower.
1478. — CAULIFLOWERS, BOILED, WITH WHITE
SAUCE. (Fr. — Chouxfleurs a la Sauce
Blanche.)
Ingredients. — 2 cauliflowers (to each gallon of water allow 1 heaped
tablespoonful of salt), white sauce No. 223.
Method. — Choose cauliflowers that are close and white, trim off the
decayed outside leaves, and cut the' stalk off flat at the bottom. Open
the flower a little in places to remove the insects, which generally are
found about the stalk, and let the cauliflowers lie in salt and water
for an hour previous to dressing them, with their heads downwards ;
this will effectually draw out all insects. Put them into fast-
RECIPES FOR COOKING VEGETABLES
829
boiling water, with the addition of salt in the above proportion, and
let them boil gently, keeping the saucepan uncovered. The water
should be well skimmed. When the cauliflowers are tender,
take them up with a slice, let them drain, and lay them carefully
in the dish. Serve with white sauce or else plain melted butter, a
little of which may be poured over the cauliflower.
Time. — Small cauliflower, 12 to 15 minutes; a large one, 20 to 25
minutes, after the water boils. Average Cost, from 3d. to 4d. each.
Seasonable from June to November.
1479. — CAULIFLOWER, CURRIED.
See Vegetables Curry of, Recipe No. 1636.
1480. — CELERY. ( Fr . — Celeri.)
Method. — This vegetable is generally eaten raw, and is served with
cheese. Let the roots be washed free from dirt, all the decayed and
outside leaves being cut off, preserve as much of the stalk as possible,
and carefully remove all specks and blemishes. Should the celery be
large, divide it lengthwise into quarters, and place it root down-
wards, in a celery-glass, which should be rather more than half
filled with water. The top leaves may be curled by shredding them
in narrow strips with the point of a knife to a depth of about 2 inches
from the top.
Average Cost, — From 2d. per head. Seasonable from September to
February.
Origin of Celery. — In its wild form celery is known as “ smallage," a common plant found grow-
ing in ditches and marshy places near to the seacoast. Linder cultivation it loses its acrid properties,
and becomes mild and sweet. In its natural state it has a peculiar rank, coarse taste and smell.
Its root was included by the Ancients among the “ five greater aperient roots." There is a large and
turnip-shaped variety of celery, which is extensively used in Germany, and considered preferable
to the variety cultivated in England.
1481. — CELERY, BRAISED. (Fr. — Celeri braise.)
Ingredients. — 3 or 4 heads of celery, seasoning, | a pint of rich stock,
2 or 3 slices of streaky bacon, a little Brown or Espagnole Sauce ( see
Sauces, No. 223 and No. 244), and a small piece of meat glaze.
Method. — Trim and wash the celery, cut each head into 2 or 3 por-
tions, and tic up each with 4-inch lengths of thin twine. Range them
in a well buttered saute-pan, season with salt, pepper and nutmeg,
and moisten with the stock. Cut the bacon into strips, fry them a
little, and put these on top of the celery. Cover the pan, and put it
in a hot oven to cook its contents for about 30 minutes. When done,
take up, drain the celery, and reduce the liquor or stock, adding a
little Brown or Espagnole Sauce to it, also the meat glaze. Dress the
celery on a vegetable dish, strain over some of the sauce, and serve hot.
Time. — 1 hour. Average Cost, is. 6d. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
Seasonable, November to February.
830 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1482. — CELERY CROQUETTES. (Fr— Croquettes de
Celeri.)
Ingredients. — 2 heads of celery, stock, 1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of flour,
1 shallot, 1 gill of milk, seasoning, 2 yolks of eggs, egg and bread-
crumbs, fat for frying.
Method. — Trim and wash the celery, and cut into short pieces, blanch
them in salted water, and drain, then cook till tender in well seasoned
stock. Drain the cooked celery, and chop it rather finely. Melt the
butter in a stewpan, add the shallot (chopped), and fry a little, stir
in the flour, blend these together, and gradually add a gill of milk.
Stir till it boils, and put in the chopped celery. Season with salt and
pepper, and cook for 15 minutes, adding the egg-yolks at the last.
Spread the mixture on a dish and let it get cold. Make up into cro-
quettes— cork or ball shapes — egg and crumb them, fry in hot fat to
a golden colour, drain them on a cloth or paper, and dish up.
Time. — 1 hour. Average Cost, is. 2d. to is. qd. Sufficient for 6 to 7
persons.
1483. — CELERY FRITTERS CURRIED. (Fr.— Beig-
nets de Celeri au Kari.)
Ingredients. — Celery, Bechamel sauce No. 178, curry-paste, curry-
powder, frying-batter, salt.
Method. — Wash and clean some white celery, cut it into 2-inch pieces,
and cook it till tender in stock or salted water. Drain the pieces on a
sieve. When cold toss it in the thick Bechamel sauce, previously mixed
with Mulligatawny or curry-paste: the pieces must be thoroughly
coated with sauce. Dip each piece in batter; drop into boiling fat,
fry a golden colour, and drain on a cloth or paper. Sprinkle with fine
salt mixed with a little curry-powder (just enough to colour it), dish
up on a folded napkin, and send to table immediately.
Asparagus, cucumber or marrow may be treated in the same manner.
Instead of using batter, they may be egged and rolled in breadcrumbs,
though this is rather more difficult than the former method.
Time. — About \\ hours. Average Cost, is. 6d. for 1 dish. Seasonable
from September to February.
Alexanders. — This plant, Stnyrnium oliisatrum, is a native of Great Britain, and is found in its
wild state near the sea coast. It was formerly cultivated for its leaf-stalks, but its place is now taken
by celery.
1484. — CELERY, FRIED. (Fr. — Beignets de Celeri.)
Ingredients. — Celery, frying-batter, frying-fat.
Method. — Prepare and boil the celery, as directed in Celery with
White Sauce, and cut it into short lengths. Have ready some frying-
batter and a deep pan of hot fat, dip each piece of celery separately
into the batter, and fry until crisp and lightly-browned. Drain well,
and serve at once.
RECIPES FOR COOKING VEGETABLES 831
Time.— To fry the celery, from 4 to 5 minutes. Average Cost, 2d. to
3d. per head. Sufficient, allow 1 head for 2 persons. Seasonable from
September to February.
1485. — CELERY AND MACARONI STEW.
(Fr. — Ragout de Celeri et Macaroni.)
Ingredients. — 3 heads of white celery, milk, water, salt, bayleaf, 2
ozs. of macaroni, ij gills of Bechamel or white sauce ( see Sauces,
No. 178 and No. 222), white pepper, a grate of nutmeg.
Method. — Trim and wash the celery, boil it till tender in milk and
water, seasoned with salt and a bayleaf. Drain and cut the celery
into 2-inch lengths. Cook the macaroni likewise in salted water ;
when done drain on a sieve and cut into short pieces. Heat up the
sauce, put in the celery and macaroni ; season with white pepper and
nutmeg, and let the whole simmer gently for 1 5 minutes or longer.
Great care must be taken not to break the celery or macaroni. Dish
up on a hot dish, and serve.
Time. — J of an hour. Average Cost, is. 3d. Sufficient for 6 persons.
Seasonable, November to February.
1486. — CELERY, STEWED.
See Celery with Espagnole Sauce, No. 1489 ; and Celery, Ragout of,
No. 1490.
1487. - CELERY WITH WHITE SAUCE. (Fr. — Celeri
a la Sauce Blanche.)
Ingredients. — 2 or 3 heads of celery, \ a pint of white sauce ( see Sauces,
No. 223), salt, toast.
Method. — Wash the celery, remove the outer stalks and the greater
part of the root, trim away the green tops, and cut each head lengthwise
into four. Have ready a saucepan of slightly-salted boiling water,
put in the celery, and cook from 30 to 35 minutes, or until the root may
be easily pierced with a skewer. Drain well, dish on the toast, pour
over the sauce, and serve.
Time. — From 30 to 35 minutes. Average Cost, from 2d. per head.
Seasonable from September to February.
1488. — CELERY WITH CREAM. (Fr.— Celeri a la
Creme.)
Ingredients. — 2 or 3 heads of celery, i-J pints of milk, 2 tablespoonfuls
of cream, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, ib ozs. of butter, 2 ozs. of flour,
1 medium-sized onion finely-chopped, salt and pepper.
Method. — Prepare the celery as in the preceding recipe. Put it into
cold water, bring to the boil, then drain off the water, add the milk
832
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
and onion, season to taste, and simmer gently tor about \ an hour.
Meanwhile melt the butter in another stewpan, stir in the flour, and
cook tor a tew minutes without browning. Take up the celery and keep
it hot; strain the milk on to the roux or mixture of flour and butter,
and stir until boiling. Rub the onion that was cooked with the celery
through a hair sieve, add it with the cream and lemon- juice to the sauce,
season to taste, and simmer tor about 5 minutes. Arrange the celery
neatly on a hot dish, pour the sauce over, and serve hot.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, is 3d. Seasonable from Sep-
tember to February.
1489. — CELERY WITH ESPAGNOLE SAUCE.
(Fr. — Celeri a l’Espagnole.)
Ingredients. — 2 or 3 heads of celery, 1 pint of good brown stock, \ a
glass of sherry, \ a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, 2 ozs. of butter, 2 ozs. of
flour, 6 or 8 button mushrooms, 2 small onions finely-chopped, 1 tea-
spoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 1 bay-leaf, 2 or 3 sprigs of thyme,
salt and pepper.
Method. — Prepare and blanch the celery as in the preceding recipe.
Drain off the water, add the stock, onions and herbs, season to taste,
and cook slowly for about } an hour. Meanwhile fry the mushrooms
in the hot butter for a few minutes, then transfer them to the stewpan
containing the celery. Add the flour to the butter, fry until it acquires
a nut-brown colour, and when the celery is sufficiently cooked remove
it to a hot dish, strain the stock on to the brown roux, and stir until
boiling. Rub the onion through a hair sieve, add it with the mush-
rooms, sherry, lemon-juice and parsley to the sauce, season to taste,
and simmer gently for about 5 minutes. Arrange the celery neatly
on a hot dish, pour over the sauce, and serve. The mushrooms and
sherry may be omitted, and the dish would then be Celery with Brown
Sauce. A little ham added to the sauce will be found a great
improvement.
Time. — From 1 to 1} hours. Average Cost, about is. 6d. to 2s.
Seasonable from September to February.
1490. — CELERY, RAGOUT OF. (Fr.— Celeri en Ra-
gout.)
Ingredients. — 2 or 3 heads of celery, 1 pint of white stock, } a pint of
milk, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, 1 medium-sized Spanish onion, 24
button onions, 1 dessertspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 2 ozs. of
butter, 2 ozs. of flour, salt and pepper.
Method. — Wash and trim the celery, cut each stick into pieces about
2 inches long, cover with cold water, bring to the boil, and pour the
water away. Put in the stock, the Spanish onion finely-chopped,
season with salt and pepper, and cook gently for about \ an hour.
RECIPES FOR COOKING VEGETABLES
833
Meanwhile skin the onions, fry them in hot butter, but very slowly,
to prevent them taking colour, drain well from fat, and keep them hot.
Add the flour to the butter, and fry for a few minutes without browning.
Take up the celery, add the strained stock to the milk, pour both on to
the roux or mixture of flour and butter, and stir until boiling. Season
to taste, add the cream, and \ the parsley, arrange the celery in a circle
on a hot dish, pour over the sauce, pile the onions high in the centre,
sprinkle over them the remainder of the parsley, and serve. The celery
may also be served on croutes of fried or toasted bread, arranged in
rows with the onions piled between them. A nice change may be made
by substituting mushrooms for the onions.
Time. -About 45 minutes. Average Cost, is. iod. to 2s. 3d. Seasonable
from September to February. Sufficient -for 4 or 5 persons.
1491. — CHICORY, TO DRESS.
See Endive, Recipe No. 1510.
1492. — CORN, FRIED (Preserved). (Fr. — Mais.)
Ingredients. — 1 tin of corn, 2 tablespoonfuls of oiled butter, 2 eggs,
salt and pepper, butter for frying.
Method. — Pound the corn in a mortar until quite smooth, then work
in the oiled butter and eggs, and season to taste. Form the mixture
into small oval or round shapes, fry both sides until lightly browned,
then serve.
Time. -To fry, from 8 to 10 minutes. Average Cost, is. 4d. to is. 6d.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
1493. — CORN, GREEN, BOILED.
Ingredients. — Green corn, butter, salt and pepper.
Method. — Remove all the husk from the corn except the inner layer;
strip this down, and take away all the silk surrounding the corn. Re-
place the remaining layer of husk, tie securely, and place the ears
in a stewpan containing sufficient boiling water to cover them. Boil
gently from 15 to 20 minutes, then remove the strings, and serve with
oiled butter highly seasoned with salt and pepper.
Time. -To cook the corn, from 15 to 20 minutes. Average Cost,
uncertain. Allow 1 to each person. Seasonable from May to July.
1494.— CORN PUDDING.
Ingredients. — 6 ears of green corn, 6 eggs, i-J pints of milk, salt and
pepper, nutmeg, sweet sauco ( see Sauces).
Method. — Grate the com, beat and add the eggs, stir in the milk,
E E
834
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
and season to taste with nutmeg, salt and pepper. Pour the mixture
into a buttered piedish, bake in a moderately hot oven for about i
hour, then serve with the sauce.
Time. — To bake, about i hour. Average Cost, 3d. per cob. Suffi-
cient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable from May to July.
1495. — CORN, STEWED.
Ingredients. — 6 ears of fresh green com, 1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of flour,
f of a pint of milk, salt and pepper.
Method. — Remove the husks and silk, cut downwards through the
centre of each row of grains, then remove them with the back of a
knife. Place the grains in a stewpan containing sufficient boiling
water to cover them, simmer gently for \ an hour, and drain well.
Meanwhile, heat the butter in another stewpan, add the flour, stir
and cook it for a few minutes without browning, then put in the milk.
Stir until boiling, season to taste, add the prepared com, and when
thoroughly hot, serve.
Time. — To cook the corn, about 35 minutes. Average Cost, 3d. per cob.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable from May to July.
1496. — CORN, STEWED (Preserved).
Ingredients. — 1 tin of green corn, 1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, milk,
salt and pepper.
Method. — Empty both corn and liquor into a stewpan, stew gently
until the com is tender, then drain and keep it hot, and with the liquor
mix enough milk to make up a pint. Heat the butter in a stewpan,
add the flour, stir and cook for a few minutes without browning, then
put in the milk. Stir the mixture until it boils, season to taste, put
in the com, simmer gently for 5 minutes, and serve.
Time. — To cook the corn, about 20 minutes. Average Cost, is. 4d. to
is. 6d. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
1497. — CORN, GREEN, ROASTED.
Ingredients. — 6 ears of green com, butter.
Method. — Remove the husks and silk from the corn, coat the ears
lightly with butter, and roast them in a Dutch oven before a clear fire,
turning them frequently. Serve hot.
Time — To roast the corn, from 20 to 25 minutes. Average
cost, uncertain. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable from May to
July.
1498. — cucumber, baked.
See Cucumber, Stuffed, Recipe No. 1505.
RECIPES FOR COOKING VEGETABEES
835
1499.— CUCUMBERS FOR GARNISH.
See Cucumber with Parsley Sauce, Recipe No. 1 503.
1500. — CUCUMBERS, TO DRESS. (Fr. — Concombres
a l’Huile.)
Ingredients. — 3 tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, 4 tablespoonfuls of vinegar,
salt and pepper to taste, cucumber.
Method. —Pare the cucumber, cut it equally into very thin slices,
cutting from the thick end; if commenced at the stalk, the cucumber
will most likely have an exceedingly bitter and far from agreeable
taste. Put the slices into a dish, sprinkle over salt and pepper,
and pour over oil and vinegar in the above proportion; turn the cucumber
about, and it is ready to serve. This is a favourite accompaniment
to boiled salmon, and is a nice addition to all descriptions of salads.
Average Cost, from 6d. each. Obtainable all the year. Seasonable
in April, May, June and July.
1501. — CUCUMBERS WITH EGGS. (Fr.— Concom-
bres aux Oeufs.)
Ingredients. — 2 large cucumbers, 1 J pints of white sauce ( see Sauces),
3 hard boiled eggs, 1 tablespoonful of grated cheese, as many croutes
of fried bread and rolls of rice as there are pieces of cucumber, salt and
pepper.
Method. — Pare the cucumbers, cut them into pieces about 3 inches
in length, and remove the centre with a vegetable cutter, or a small
knife. Stand them on end in a stewpan in a little hot stock or water,
cover closely, and simmer very gently until tender; the time required
varies from 15 to 20 minutes, according to the age of the cucumber.
Rub the yolk of 1 egg through a wire sieve, and put it aside, cut the
remainder of the eggs into dice, add them to -J- a pint of hot white sauce,
and when ready for use stir in the grated cheese. Have the rice rolls
nicely fried, and the cucumber drained and on the croutes ready to
receive the mixture, which should be pressed lightly in, piled rather
high, and garnished with yolk of egg. Dish in 2 close rows, arrange
the rice rolls overlapping each other round the base, and serve the
remainder of the sauce in a sauceboat.
Time.— Altogether, from i-j- to i| hours. Average Cost, from 2s. qd.
to 3s. 3d. Obtainable at any time.
Note. — This dish may be varied by substituting a macedoine of cooked
vegetables for the eggs and cheese, or by filling the pieces of cucumber with
a puree of any white vegetable, such as celery or artichokes, and garnishing
the base with Tomatoes Farcies au Gratin or tomatoes stuffed with
macaroni, cheese and white sauce, or tomatoes stuffed with mushrooms.
836 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1502. — CUCUMBERS, FRIED. (Fr.— Concombres
Frits.)
Ingredients. — 2 or 3 small cucumbers, pepper and salt to taste, flour,
oil or butter.
Method. — Pare the cucumbers and cut them into slices of an equal
thickness, commencing to slice from the thick end, and not the stalk
end of the cucumber. Wipe the slices dry with a cloth, dredge them
with flour, and put them in a pan of boiling oil or butter; keep turning
them about till brown, lift them out of the pan, let them drain on a
cloth, then season, and serve, piled lightly on a dish.
Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, is. 2d. to is. 6d. Obtainable
all the ye^r.
Properties and uses of the Cucumber. — The fruits of the Cucurbilaceae , or gourd order, to which
the cucumber belongs, have in general a sugary taste, and contain a large percentage of water ; hence
their value in tropical countries, where they furnish the inhabitants, even in arid deserts and barren
islands, with a large portion of their food. The roots of the perennial varieties contain, in addition
to fecula, which is their base, a resinous, acrid, and bitter principle. The juice of the cucumber is
employed in the preparation of various kinds of soaps, and washes for the skin, its soothing or emol-
lient properties rendering it valuable for such purposes.
Geographical Distribution of Cucumbers. — The family of the Cucurbitaceae is unknown in the
frigid zone, is somewhat rare in the temperate zone, but in tropical and warm regions throughout
the globe, all the species grow abundantly. Many varieties supply useful articles of consumption,
and others possess active medicinal properties.
The Chate. — This variety of cucumber is a native of Egypt and Arabia, and produces a fruit of
nearly the same substance as that of the melon. In Egypt the chate is esteemed by the upper class
natives, as well as by Europeans, as the most pleasant fruit of its kind.
1503. — CUCUMBER WITH PARSLEY SAUCE.
(Fr. — Concombre a la Poulette.)
Ingredients. — 2 medium-sized cucumbers, \ a pint of white sauce ( see
Sauces), 1 oz. of butter, the yolks of 2 eggs, \ a teaspoonful of finely-
chopped shallot, or onion, \ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley,
salt and pepper.
Method. — Pare the cucumbers, put them into boiling water, cook for
about 10 minutes, then drain well and cut them into slices about 1 inch
in thickness. Heat the butter in a stewpan, put in the sliced cucumber,
shallot, and a good seasoning of salt and pepper, toss over the fire
for a few minutes, then add the white sauce. Just before boiling point
is reached add the yolks of eggs and parsley, stir and cook gently
until the eggs thicken, then season to taste, and serve.
Time. — About 30 minutes. Average Cost, from is. 3d. to is. 6d.
Obtainable at any time, cheapest in July and August.
The Melon (Fr. mellon). — This is another species of the gourd family, and is highly valued for its
rich and delicious fruit, it has from time immemorial been cultivated in hot Eastern countries.
It was introduced into England from Jamaica in the sixteenth century, since which period it has been
grown in Great Britain. It was formerly called the musk-lemon, which is a variety of the common
melon.
1504. — CUCUMBERS, STEWED. (Fr.— Concombres
au Jus.)
Ingredients. — 2 large cucumbers, flour, butter, rather more than \ a
pint of good brown gravy.
RECIPES FOR COOKING VEGETABLES 837
Method. — Cut the cucumbers lengthwise, to the size of the dish they are
intended to be served in, empty them of the seeds, and put them into
boiling water, with a little salt. Let them simmer for 5 minutes,
then take them out, place them in another stewpan, with the gravy,
and let them boil over a brisk fire until the cucumbers are tender.
Should they be bitter, add a lump of sugar; dish them carefully, skim
the sauce, strain over the cucumbers, and serve.
Time. — Altogether, 20 minutes. Average Cost, from 6d. each. Obtain-
able at any time.
1505. — CUCUMBERS, STUFFED. (Fr. — Concombres
Farcis.)
Ingredients. — 2 large cucumbers, \ a lb. of finely-chopped cold meat
(any kind may be used), 2 tablespoonfuls of breadcrumbs, 1 teaspoonful
of finely-chopped parsley, \ of a teaspoonful of powdered mixed herbs,
2 eggs, or 1 egg and a little milk, as many croutes of fried or toasted
bread as there are pieces of cucumber, £ a pint of brown sauce ( see
Sauces, No. 233), salt and pepper.
Method. — Prepare and parboil the cucumber as for Cucumber with
Eggs. While they are cooking mix well together, in a stewpan, the
meat, breadcrumbs, parsley and herbs, season with salt and pepper,
add the eggs, with a little milk or stock if the mixture appears at all
dry, and stir briskly over the fire until thoroughly hot. When the
cucumbers are tender, drain them well, place each piece on a croute
of bread, fill carefully with the preparation, which should be piled up
rather high, and, if liked, garnished with finely-chopped parsley or white
of egg. Dish in two close rows, pour the sauce over, sprinkle on the
garnish, and serve as hot as possible.
Time. — Altogether, 1 hour. Average Cost, is. 6d. to is. iod. Obtain-
able all the year; cheapest in July and August.
1506. — DANDELION LEAVES, STEWED.
Ingredients. — Dandelion leaves, butter, flour, cream or stock, salt and
pepper.
Method. — Wash the leaves thoroughly, let them remain in plenty of
cold water for 2 or 3 hours, then draih well. Cover with boiling water,
add a little salt, boil from 20 to 30 minutes, then strain, press well,
and chop finely. To 1 pint of chopped dandelion leaves, allow 1 oz.
of butter; melt this in a stewpan, and add 1 teaspoonful of flour. When
well mixed, add 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of cream or stock, put in the
dandelion leaves, stir the mixture over the fire until it becomes thor-
oughly hot, then serve.
Time. — 20 to 30 minutes. Seasonable in Spring.
838 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1507. — EGG PLANT, BAKED, WITH CHEESE.
(Fr. — Aubergine au Parmesan.)
Ingredients.- — 3 aubergines, J of a pint of Bechamel sauce ( see Sauces,
No. 177), 1 tablespoonful of grated Parmesan, butter, salt and pepper,
breadcrumbs.
Method. — Parboil the aubergines, then peel, slice them rather
thickly, remove the seeds, and arrange neatly in a baking-dish. Mix
the Bechamel sauce and cheese together, season to taste, pour it into
the baking-dish, and cover lightly with breadcrumbs. Add a few
pieces of butter, bake in a moderately hot oven for about ^ an hour,
and serve in the dish.
Time. — To bake the aubergines, from 25 to 35 minutes. Average Cost,
from 4d. each. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable from June
to November.
1508. — EGG PLANT, FRIED. (Fr.— Aubergines
Frites.)
Ingredients. — 3 aubergines, 1 finely-chopped onion, salad-oil or butter,
flour, cayenne, salt and pepper.
Method. — Parboil the aubergines, then remove the peel and seeds,
and slice rather thickly. Press out some of the moisture by means
of a dry cloth, then coat lightly with flour seasoned with pepper,
cayenne and salt. Fry the onion in hot butter until lightly browned,
drain, and replace the butter in the pan, keeping the onion hot. Fry
the slices of aubergine in the butter until both sides are lightly browned,
then drain well. Sprinkle on the onion, and serve.
Time. — To fry the aubergines, about 10 minutes. Average Cost, from
4d. each. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable from June to
November.
1509. — EGG PLANT, WITH POACHED EGGS.
(Fr. — Aubergines aux Oeufs Poches.)
Ingredients.— 3 aubergines, 6 small poached eggs, 1 gill of tomato
pulp, 2 tablespoonfuls of chopped ham, 1 tablespoonful of bread-
crumbs, \ an oz. of butter, salt and pepper, chopped parsley.
Method. — Halve the plants, remove the rind and seeds, boil in slightly-
salted water until tender, and drain well. Heat the butter, add the
tomato pulp, ham, breadcrumbs, and salt and pepper to taste, stir
over the fire for a few minutes, then fill the cavities of the aubergines
with the mixture. Sprinkle with parsley, make thoroughly hot in the
oven, then place a neatly-trimmed poached egg on each half, and
serve garnished with tufts of parsley.
RECIPES FOR COOKING VEGETABLES
839
Time. — Altogether, about 1 hour. Average Cost of aubergines, from
4d. each. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable from June to
November.
1510. — ENDIVE. (Fr. — Chicoree.)
This vegetable is generally served as a salad, but may also be
served hot, stewed in cream, brown gravy, or butter ; but when
dressed thus, the sauce it is stewed in should not be very highly
seasoned, as that would destroy and overpower the flavour of the
vegetable.
Average Cost, from ad. per head. Seasonable from November to March.
Endive (Fr. chicoree). — This plant was introduced into England in the sixteenth century, and is
cultivated for culinary purposes. Its leaves are used, when blanched, for soups and salads. Endive
belongs to the same family ( Compositae ) as chicory.
1511. — ENDIVE, STEWED. (Fr. — Puree de Chicoree.)
Ingredients. — 6 heads of endive, £ of a pint of stock, 1 oz. of butter,
1 oz. of flour, t tablespoonful of lemon-juice, salt and pepper.
Method. — Wash and free the endive thoroughly from insects, remove
the green parts of the leaves, and put the endive into boiling water,
slightly salted. Let it remain for 10 minutes, then take it out, drain,
and chop it finely. Melt the butter in a stewpan, stir in the flour, and
cook for a few minutes without browning. Put in the stock, stir until
boiling, add the endive and lemon-juice, season to taste, simmer until
the endive is perfectly tender, then serve.
Time. — Altogether, about £ an hour. Average Cost, from 2d. per head.
Seasonable from November to March.
1512. — GREENS, YOUNG, TO DRESS.
See Brussels Sprouts Boiled, Recipe No. 1461.
1513. — HARICOT BEANS, BOILED. (Fr.— Haricots
de Soisson, au Beurre.)
Ingredients. — 1 quart of white haricot beans, 2 quarts of water,
1 oz. of butter, 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt.
Method. — Put the beans into cold water, and let them soak for several
hours, according to their age; then put them into cold water, salted
in the above proportion, bring them to the boil, and let them simmer
very slowly until tender. Pour away the water, and let them stand
by the side of the tire, with the lid of the saucepan partially off, to allow
the beans to dry; then add 1 oz. of butter and a seasoning of pepper
and salt. Toss the beans for about 5 minutes, then dish up and
serve.
Time. — After the water boils, from 2 to 2\ hours. Average Cost,
qd. per quart. Sufficient for 6 or 8 persons. Seasonable at any time.
840 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1514. — HARICOTS A LA BONNE FEMME.
Ingredients.— 1 quart of white haricot beans, £ of a lb. of butter,
£ of an oz. of salt, 2 quarts of water, 1 teaspoonful of chopped-parsley,
salt and pepper.
Method. — Place the haricot beans in water with the above proportion
of salt; let them boil, then draw the saucepan to the corner of the fire,
and let them simmer gently until the bean is easily crushed between
the thumb and finger, which will be in about 2 hours. Drain them
and return them to the saucepan; add the butter, parsley, salt and
pepper to taste, and a pint of the liquor in which the beans were boiled.
Shake the saucepan over the fire until the butter is melted, and serve
very hot.
Time. — -2\ hours. Average Cost, 4d. per quart. Sufficient for 6 or 8
persons. Seasonable at any time.
Haricot Bean (Fr. haricot). — This is the haricot blanc of the French, and is also cultivated largely
in Great Britain, Germany, and Switzerland. It is highly nutritious, and contains 36 per cent of
starch, and 23 per cent, of the nitrogenous matter called legumen, allied to the caseine of cheese.
There is perhaps no vegetable dish so cheap, or so easily cooked, and, at the same time, so agreeable
and nourishing. The beans are boiled and then mixed with a little fat or salt butter, and a little
milk or water and flour.
1515. — HARICOT BEANS WITH PARSLEY BUTTER.
(Fr. — Haricots Blancs a la Maitre d’Hotel.)
Ingredients. — -i quart of white haricot beans, J of a lb. of fresh butter,
1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley, pepper and salt to taste, the juice
of \ a lemon.
Method. — Should the beans be very dry, soak them for i or 2 hours
in cold water, and boil them until perfectly tender, as in the preceding
recipe. Should the water boil away, replenish it with a little more
cold, to make the sfkin of the beans tender. Let them be thor-
oughly done ; drain them well, then add to them the butter, chopped
parsley, and a seasoning of pepper and salt. Shake the stewpan gently
over the4 fire ; and when the various ingredients are well mixed,
squeeze in the lemon- juice, and serve very hot.
Time. — 1 hour. Average Cost, qd. per quart. Sufficient for 6 or 8 per-
sons. Seasonable at any time.
Haricots and Lentils (Fr. haricots el lentilles). — From their flesh-forming properties these
vegetables serve as an excellent substitute for meat, and are largely used in Roman Catholic
countries during the season of Lent, and on tnaigre days. In Egypt, Syria, and other parts of the
East, lentils form the chief article of diet. The use of lentils as a food has largely increased in Eng-
land in recent years, and they are eaten in the form of soups, prepared foods, etc.
1516. — HARICOT BEANS AND MINCED ONIONS.
(Fr. — Haricots a la Lyonnaise.)
Ingredients. — 1 pint of white haricot beans, 4 medium-sized onions,
J of a pint of good brown gravy No. 164, pepper and salt to taste, a little
flour, \ oz. butter.
Method. — Peel and mince the onions, not too finely, fry them in
RECIPES FOR COOKING VEGETABLES
841
butter until they acquire a light-brown colour, then dredge over them
a little flour, and add the gravy and a seasoning of pepper and salt.
Have ready a pint of haricot beans well boiled and drained, put them
with the onions and gravy, mix all well together, and serve very hot.
Time. — Altogether, about 2\ hours. Average Cost, qd. per quart.
Seasonable at any time.
1517— HERB PANCAKES. {Fr. — Crepes aux Fines
Herbes.)
Ingredients. — Any green herbs, such as parsley, chives, thyme, spinach,
etc., 2 ozs. of butter, minced ham or bacon, stock, fried pancakes.
Method. — Chop the herbs finely, then put them into a stewpan with
the butter, and stew till tender. Keep them moist, mix in the
ham or bacon, put a thin layer of mince over each pancake,
and roll them up. Put the pancakes closely side by side in a stewpan,
add just enough stock to keep them from burning, cover closely, and
steam for 30 minutes.
Time. — 1 hour. Average Cost, Sd.-qd. Seasonable at any time.
1518. — HORSERADISH. {Fr.— Raifort.)
Method. — This root, scraped, is served with hot roast beef, and is also
used for garnishing cold roast beef and many kinds of boiled fish. Let the
horseradish remain in cold water for 1 hour; wash it well, and with a sharp
knife scrape it into very thin shreds, commencing from the thick end
of the root. Arrange some of it lightly in a small glass dish, and use
the remainder for garnishing the joint; it should be placed in tufts
round the border of the dish, with 1 or 2 bunches on the meat.
Average Cost. — 2d. per stick. Seasonable from October to June.
The Horseradish (Fr. raifori). — This vegetable possesses highly stimulant and exciting stomachic
properties. It is valuable as a condiment in promoting the appetite and exciting the organs of diges-
tion. Sulphur is present to the extent of 30 per cent, in the horseradish, and causes the black colour
which metal vessels sometimes assume when horseradish is distilled. It is a most powerful
antiscorbutic, and forms the basis of various medicinal preparations in the form of wines, tinc-
tures, and syrups.
1519. — KIDNEY BEANS.
See French Beans, Recipe No. 1451.
1520. — KOHL-RABI, STEWED.
Ingredients. — 1 large kohl-rabi, or 2 small ones, 2 ozs. of butter.
\ 07.. of flour, \ a pint of milk, nutmeg, salt and pepper.
Method. — Pick out the most tender leaves, which put aside to be
afterwards boiled, drained, and tossed in -} an oz. of butter. Peel and
quarter the root, cover it with boiling salted water, boil gently until
tender, and drain well. Heat the remaining 1 ozs. of butter, add the
842
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
flour, cook for 4 or 5 minutes without browning, add the milk, and
stir until boiling. Season to taste, add a little nutmeg, put in the
quarters of root, and let them remain until thoroughly hot. Serve
with the sauce poured over, garnished with the leaves prepared as
directed above.
1521. — LEEKS, BOILED. {Fr. — Poireaux au Naturel.)
Ingredients. — 12 young leeks, salt, vinegar, f of a pint of white sauce
(see Sauces, No. 223), toast.
Method. — Trim oft the roots, the outer leaves, and the green ends,
and cut the stalks into 6 inch lengths. Have ready a saucepan of
boiling water, add a tablespoonful of vinegar and a dessertspoonful of
salt, put in the leeks, previously tied in bundles, and boil gently for
about 40 minutes, or until they are perfectly tender. Drain well,
serve on toast, and pour the white sauce over them.
Time. — About 40 minutes. Average Cost, is. to is. 3d. Obtain-
able all the year; cheapest in September, October and November.
The Leek (Fr. poircau). — This plant, the Albium porrum, is highly valued for culinary purposes.
It is ordinarily sown in Spring, and is ready for use the following Winter. Its flavour is much milder
than that of the onion, or any other species of the allium. Leeks, like the onion, are more frequently
employed for flavouring purposes than served as a vegetable ; but if boiled in 3 or 4 waters, and after-
wards stewed in milk, quartered, and served on toast like asparagus, they are nearly, if not quite,
as delicate.
1522. — LEEKS WITH POACHED EGGS. {Fr.— Poire-
aux aux Oeufs Poches.)
Ingredients. — 6 or 8 leeks, i onion, i carrot, \ a turnip, i bouquet-
garni, i bay-leaf, i blade of mace, 2 ozs. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, % a
pint of white stock, a pint of milk, 6 poached eggs, toast, salt and
pepper.
Method. — Cut the onion, carrot and turnip into thin slices, prepare
the leeks as in the preceding recipe, put them into cold water, bring
to the boil, and strain. Heat 1 oz. of butter in a stewpan, put in the
leeks, onion, carrot, turnip, herbs, bay-leaf and mace, and fry slowly
for 15 minutes, then add the stock, cover closely, and cook gently for
about if hours. When the cooking is nearly completed, melt the re-
mainder of the butter in another stewpan, add the flour, fry for a
few minutes, then put in the milk, and stir until boiling. Take up the
leeks, cut them lengthwise into quarters, across into 2 or 3 pieces,
keep them hot, and strain what little stock remains into the sauce.
Arrange the toast as a long narrow strip down the centre of the dish,
pile the pieces of leek high upon it, pour over the sauce, and place the
poached eggs round the base.
Time. — From if to if hours. Average Cost, 2s. to 2s. 6d. Obtain-
able at any time; cheapest in September, October and November.
RECIPES FOR COOKING VEGETABLES 843
1523. — LENTILS, BOILED.
Ingredients. — 1 pint of lentils, 1 oz. of butter, \ an oz. of flour, \ a
pint of stock or milk, 1 finely-chopped onion, salt and pepper.
Method. — Soak the lentils overnight in plenty of water, drain, cover
them with boiling water, add a little salt, and boil gently until soft
but not broken. Fry the onion in the butter until lightly browned,
add the flour, and when it has cooked for 2 or 3 minutes, put in the
stock or milk, and stir the mixture until it boils. Strain and add the
lentils, season to taste, cook gently for a few minutes, then serve.
Or soak, boil and drain the lentils as directed above, season to taste
with salt and pepper, stir in a little butter, then serve.
Time. — About an hour. Average Cost, 2d. per pint. Seasonable at any
time.
1524. — LETTUCES. (Fr. — Laitues.)
Method. — These form one of the principal ingredients of summer
salads. They are seldom served in any other way, but may be stewed
and sent to table in a good brown gravy flavoured with lemon-juice.
In preparing them for salad, carefully wash them free of dirt, pick
off all the decayed and outer leaves, and dry them thoroughly by shaking
them in a cloth. Cut off the stalks, and either halve, or cut the lettuces
into small pieces. The manner of cutting them up entirely depends
on the salad for which they are intended. In France, the lettuces
are sometimes merely wiped with a cloth, and not washed, the cooks
there declaring that the act of washing them injuriously affects the
pleasant crispness of the plant; in this case, scrupulous attention must
be paid to each leaf, and the grit thoroughly wiped away.
Average Cost. — From id. to 2d. per head. Obtainable all the
year.
The Lettuce (Fr. laitue). — In its young state the lettuce forms a well-known and wholesome
salad, containing a clear, tasteless, and inodorous liquid, with soothing and cooling properties. Whcm
flowering, if the plant be cut or wounded, it discharges a peculiar milky juice, which possesses medi-
cinal properties. From the inspissated juice of the lettuce opium is obtained.
1525. - LIMA BEANS.
Fresh Lima beans may be treated in the same manner as fresh peas,
and the dried beans may be prepared and cooked according to the
directions given for dressing haricot beans and lentils.
1526. — MACEDOINES, PRESERVED.
See Tinned Peas, to Dress, Recipe No. 1559. Follow the directions
given, but omit the mint.
1527. — MAIZE, OR INDIAN CORN. (Fr.— Mais.)
Ingredients. — 2 young cobs of Indian corn, 3 quarts of water, 3 table-
spoonfuls of salt.
844
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Cut off the stem, throw the green cobs into cold water,
with the above proportion of salt, and boil slowly for f- of an hour,
or until tender. Serve on toast, with melted butter.
Time. — §• of an hour, after the water boils. Average Cost, from 3d.
per cob. Seasonable in August and September.
1528. — MIXED VEGETABLES FOR GARNISH.
(Fr. — Macedoine de Legumes.)
Ingredients. — Equal quantities of carrots, turnips, peas, salt.
Method. — Wash and scrape the carrots and turnips, shape them
round or oval by means of special cutters sold as vegetable scoops.
Boil them and the peas separately in salted water until tender, then
drain well, and use as required. Asparagus points, flageolets, sprays
of cauliflower, French beans, cut into diamonds, all may be used in
addition to the above.
1529. — MUSHROOMS, BAKED. ( Fr . — Champignons
au Beurre.)
Ingredients. — 16 or 20 cup mushrooms, butter, pepper to taste.
Method. — For this method of cooking, the cup mushrooms are better
than the buttons, but should not be too large. Cut off a portion of
stalk, peel the top, and put them at once into a baking-dish, with a very
small piece of butter placed on each mushroom; sprinkle over a little
pepper, and let them bake for about 20 minutes, or longer, should the
mushrooms be very large. Have ready a very hot dish, pile the mush-
rooms high in the centre, pour the gravy round, and send them to
table quickly with very hot plates.
Time. — 20 minutes; large mushrooms, \ an hour. Average Cost, from
6d. to 9d. per lb. Seasonable, meadow mushrooms in September and
October ; cultivated varieties obtainable all the year. Sufficient for 6 or 8
persons.
Varieties of Mushrooms. — The common mushroom found in our pastures is the Agaricus campes-
tris of science ; and another edible British species is A. georgii, but A. primulas is affirmed to be the
most delicious mushroom. The morel is Morckella esculenta, and Tuber cibarium is the common
truffle. Of late years much scientific research has been devoted to fungi of all descriptions, and
enthusiasts have put to the test the suitability of mushrooms and fungi for food purposes. The
list of edible fungi is a long one, but it requires some study before the more uncommon kinds can be
safely ventured upon.
1530. — MUSHROOMS, BROILED. ( Fr . — Champig-
nons Grilles.)
Ingredients. — Cup mushrooms, pepper and salt, butter, lemon-juice.
Method. — Carefully peel the mushrooms, cut off a portion of the stalk,
and season with salt.
RECIPES FOR COOKING VEGETABLES 845
Broil them over a clear fire, turning them once, and arrange them on a
very hot dish. Put a small piece of butter on each mushroom, season
with pepper and salt, and squeeze over them a few drops of lemon-
juice.
Time. — About 10 minutes. Average Cost, from 6d. per lb. Seasonable
in September and October, obtainable all the year.
Localities of the Mushroom. — Mushrooms are to be met with in pastures, woods and marshes,
but are very capricious and uncertain in their places of growth, multitudes being obtained in one
season where few or none were to be found in the preceding year. They sometimes grow solitary,
but more frequently they are gregarious, and rise in a regular circular form. Many species are em-
ployed bv man as food ; but, generally speaking, they are difficult of digestion. Many of them are
also of suspicious qualities. Little reliance can be placed either on their taste, smell, or colour, as
much depends on the situation on which they vegetate, and even the same plant, it is affirmed, may
be innocent when young, but become noxious when advanced in age.
1531. — MUSHROOMS, PRESERVED, WITH BROWN
SAUCE.
Ingredients.- — 1 pint tin or bottle of mushrooms, 1 oz. of butter, 1 oz.
of flour, 1 tablespoonful of sherry, stock, salt and pepper.
Method. — Strain the liquor from the tin or bottle, and add to it
sufficient stock to make up rather more than \ a pint. Fry the butter
and flour together until well-browned, add the mushroom-liquor, and
stir the mixture until it boils. Season to taste, add the sherry, put in
the mushrooms, and, when quite hot, serve as an accompaniment to
broiled chicken, steak, etc. They may also be served as a vegetable
entremet, in which case the mushrooms should be neatly arranged on
hot buttered toast.
Time. — Altogether, about £ an hour. Average Cost, is. to is. 2d.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.
1532. — MUSHROOMS, STEWED. (Fr.— Champig-
nons a la Creme.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of button mushrooms, 2 ozs. of butter, 4 of a pint
of cream or milk, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, the juice of % a lemon,
salt and pepper.
Method. — Remove the skins, and cut off the ends of the stalks. Melt
the butter in a stewpan, put in the mushrooms and lemon-juice, season
with salt and pepper, cover closely, and cook gently for about \ an
hour, shaking the pan occasionally. Mix the flour and cream or milk
smoothly together, pour the mixture into the stewpan, stir until the
contents boil, simmer for 10 minutes to cook the flour, then, if the mush-
rooms are tender, season to taste, and serve.
Time. — About 40 minutes. Average Cost, from 8d. per lb. Sufficient
for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable, meadow mushrooms in September and
October, obtainable all the year.
To procure mushrooms at all seasons gardeners provide themselves
with what is called spawn from those whose business it is to propagate it.
846
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
When thus procured it is usually made up for sale in quadrils consisting of
numerous white, fibrous roots, having a strong smell of mushrooms. The
spawn is planted in rows, in a carefully-made bed, formed of seasoned farm-
yard compost of sifted loam, beaten hard, and placed in a dry situation, and
carefully attended to for five or six weeks, when the bed begins to produce,
and continues to do so for several months. Cellars are often utilized for this
purpose. In Paris most of the mushrooms are grown on artificially-formed
beds in dark, disused quarries.
1533. — MUSHROOMS, TINNED, WITH CREAM
SAUCE.
Ingredients. — 1 pint bottle or tin of mushrooms, 1 oz. of butter,
1 oz. of flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, milk, salt and pepper.
Method. — Strain off the liquor, add to it sufficient milk to make up
rather more than \ a pint. Heat the butter in a stewpan, add the
flour, stir and cook for a few minutes without browning, then put in the
mushroom liquor. Stir until boiling, season to taste, put in the mush-
rooms, and when thoroughly hot stir in the cream, and serve.
Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, is. to is. 2d. Sufficient for
4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.
1534. — MUSHROOMS, TO KEEP TEMPORARILY.
Ingredients. — 1 quart of mushrooms, 2 ozs. of butter, 1 tablespoonful
of lemon-juice, salt and pepper.
Method. — Peel, wash and thoroughly dry the mushrooms. Heat
the butter in a large stewpan, put in the mushrooms, season lightly
with salt and pepper, and add the lemon-juice. Leave the pan un-
covered, and cook the mushrooms very slowly until they become
quite dry. They will keep good for several days, and when required
for use should be re-heated and drained free from butter. They may
also be kept for some time if closely packed in a shallow piedish, and
covered with clarified butter.
1535- — MUSHROOMS, TO PRESERVE.
Ingredients. — To each quart of mushrooms allow 3 ozs. of butter,
pepper and salt to taste, the juice of 1 lemon, clarified butter.
Method. — Peel the mushrooms, put them into cold water, with a little
lemon-juice; let them remain for 10 minutes, then dry them very care-
fully in a cloth. Put the butter into a stewpan capable of holding
the mushrooms; when it is melted, add the mushrooms, lemon-juice,
and a seasoning of pepper and salt. Draw them down over a slow fire,
and let them remain until their liquor is boiled away, and they have
become quite dry, but they must not stick to the bottom of the stew-
pan. When done, put the mushrooms into pots, and over the top
RECIPES FOR COOKING VEGETABLES
847
pour clarified butter. If not wanted for immediate use, they will
keep good a few days without being covered over. To re-warm them,
put the mushrooms into a stewpan, strain the butter from them, and
they will be ready lor use.
Average Cost. — From 8d. per lb. Seasonable, meadow mushrooms in
September and October, obtainable all the year.
1536. — MUSHROOMS, STUFFED. (^.—Champig-
nons Farcis au Gratin.)
Ingredients. — 6 medium-sized mushrooms, 6 round croutes of fried
or toasted bread, slightly larger than the mushrooms, 1 tablespoonful
of finely-chopped cooked ham, \ a tablespoonful of breadcrumbs, a
teaspoonful of grated Parmesan cheese, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped
mushrooms, a teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 1 very small
onion finely chopped, an oz. of butter, salt and pepper, browned bread-
crumbs, brown sauce ( see Sauces).
Method. — Remove the stalks and skins, trim the mushrooms to a
uniform shape with a round cutter, and use the trimmings for the
mixture. Melt the butter in a small stewpan, add to it all the above
ingredients, except the butter, brown breadcrumbs, and brown sauce,
season well with salt and pepper, stir briskly over the fire until well
mixed, adding by degrees as much brown sauce as is necessary to
slightly moisten the whole. Pile the preparation on the mushrooms,
sprinkle with browned breadcrumbs, add a small piece of butter, and
bake from 10 to 15 minutes in a moderate oven.
Time. — From 30 to 35 minutes. Average Cost, from 8d. per lb.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable, meadow mushrooms in Sep-
tember and October.
1537. — MUSHROOMS ON TOAST. (iv.— Champig-
nons sur Croutes.)
Ingredients. — An equal number of medium-sized mushrooms and
slightly larger rounds of well buttered toast, butter, salt and pepper.
Method. — Peel the mushrooms, cut off a portion of the stalks, season
well with salt and pepper, brush over with warm butter, and grill over
a clear fire, or fry in a pan in a little hot butter. Arrange neatly on
the croutes, and serve as hot as possible.
Time. — 12 to 15 minutes. Average Cost, from 8d. per lb. Allow 1
or 2 to each person. Seasonable, procurable at any time.
1538. — OKRA.
This plant is a native of the West Indies, although now largely
cultivated in India and America. The young green pods are some-
848
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
times pickled, and the older pods are preserved in tins for export.
Those imported resemble gherkins in size, but their ends form a sharper
point; their colour is lighter and less vivid in tone, and their pods
contain seeds not unlike pearl barley. Okra has a peculiar flavour,
often disagreeable' to an unaccustomed palate, and it is exceedingly
mucilaginous, the pods in the tin being surrounded by a substance of
greater viscidity than gum.
I539-— OKRA, TO BOIL.
Ingredients. — 24 fresh okras, 2 tablespoonfuls of oiled butter, 2 table-
spoonfuls of cream, salt and pepper.
Method. — Wash the okras in cold water, drain them well, and trim
both ends. Place them in a saucepan containing boiling salted water,
boil gently for 15 minutes, or until tender, and drain well. Make
the butter and cream hot in a stewpan, put in the okras, sprinkle
liberally with pepper, add a little salt, shake them over the fire for a
few minutes, then serve.
Time, \ an hour. Average Cost, uncertain.
1540. — OKRAS AND TOMATOES, SCALLOPED.
Ingredients. — £ of a tin of okras, 4 tomatoes sliced, 2 tablespoonfuls
of breadcrumbs, f- of an oz. of butter, £ of an oz. of flour, £ a pint of
milk, salt and pepper, browned breadcrumbs or cracker crumbs, butter.
Method. — Cut the okras into small pieces, halve or quarter the slices
of tomatoes, mix the two together, and add the breadcrumbs. Heat
the butter in a stewpan, add the flour, stir and cook the mixture for a
few minutes, then put in the milk, and stir until boiling. Season to
taste, and simmer gently for 5 minutes. Place the mixture of okras
and tomato in well-buttered scallop shells, sprinkle lightly with salt
and pepper, and add a little sauce. Cover lightly with browned bread-
crumbs or cracker crumbs, add 2 or 3 small pieces of butter, and bake
in a moderately-hot oven from 10 to 15 minutes. Serve hot.
Time. — To bake the scallops, from 10 to 15 minutes. Average Cost,
iod. to is. Allow 1 scallop to each person. Seasonable at any time.
1541. — OKRAS, TINNED, TO SERVE AS A VEGE-
TABLE.
Ingredients. — 1 tin of okras, salt and pepper.
Method. — Turn the contents of the tin into a steel stewpan, make
thoroughly hot, then drain, season with salt and pepper, and serve.
Time. — To re-heat, about 10 minutes. Average Cost, is. Sufficient
for s or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
DRESSED VEGETABLES
C C
30
RECIPES FOR COOKING VEGETABLES
849
1542. — ONIONS.
Directions given for preparing and cooking Spanish onions are
equally applicable to other varieties less mild in character. When
their stronger flavour is disliked, it may be partially removed by
blanching them, and still more effectually by changing the water two
or three times.
1543. — ONIONS, BURNT, FOR GRAVIES.
Ingredients. — \ a 18. of onions coarsely-chopped, a lb. of moist
sugar, \ a pint of water, f of a pint of vinegar.
Method. — Place the onions and water in a steel stewpan, let them boil
for 5 or 6 minutes, then add the sugar, and simmer gently until the
preparation becomes nearly black. Have the vinegar ready boiling,
pour it into the stewpan. stir until well mixed, then strain, and when
cold, bottle for use. This browning must be used very sparingly-
or it will impart a disagreeable taste. When colouring alone is
required, it is safer to use caramel, recipes for which will be found
under that name.
1544. — ONION PIE.
See Chapter XLIII, “ Vegetarian Cookery.”
1545. — ONIONS, ROASTED. ( Fr . — Oignons rotis.)
Ingredients. — Onions, either red or yellow.
Method. — Top and tail the onions, but do not skin them. Put them
into a saucepan containing sufficient boiling salted water to cover them,
boil gently until nearly done, then drain and dry thoroughly. Place
the onions in a tin, or in a Dutch oven, in front of a clear fire, and roast
them for 15 or 20 minutes, turning them frequently. Serve as a
garnish to roast fowl.
Time. — To boil the onions, about 1 hour. Average Cost, 2d. per lb.
Seasonable at any time.
1546. — ONIONS, SPANISH, BAKED. (Fr.— Oignons.)
Ingredients. — 4 or 5 Spanish onions, salt and water.
Method. — Put the onions, with their skins on, into a saucepan of
boiling water, slightly salted, and let them boil quickly for 1 hour.
Then take them out, wipe them thoroughly, wrap each one in a piece
of buttered paper, and bake them in a moderate oven for 2 hours, or
longer, should the onions be very large. They may be served in their
skins, and eaten with a piece of cold butter and a seasoning of pepper
and salt; or they may be peeled, and a good brown gravy poured over
them.
850
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Time. — From i to if hours to boil; 2 hours to bake. Average Cost,
2d. per lb. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable from October to
April.
Properties of the Onion. — The onion is possessed of a white, acrid, volatile oil, holding sulphur
in solution, albumen, a quantity of uncrystallizable sugar, and mucilage, phosphoric acid, both free
and combined lime, acetic acid, citrate of lime, and lignine. Of all the species of allium, the onion
has the volatile principle in the greatest degree ; and hence it is impossible to separate the scales
of the root without the eyes being affected. The juice is sensibly acid, and is capable of being, by
fermentation converted into vinegar, and mixed with water or dregs of beer yields by distillation
an alcoholic liquor. Although used as a common esculent, onions are not suited to all stomachs ;
some persons cannot eat them either fried or roasted, whilst others prefer them boiled, which is the
best way of using them, as by the process they then undergo they are deprived of their essential oil.
Many people who cannot eat onions in a pie or stew, when they are put in raw, find them quite
digestible if they are first scalded for a quarter of an hour. Anaemic persons, and those of a
consumptive tendency, frequently evince a great liking for onions, and they prove a most useful
food for such invalids.
1547.— ONIONS, SPANISH, BAKED. (Another Method.)
Ingredients.— Spanish onions, brown sauce ( see Sauces, No. 233),
butter or fat, salt.
Method. — Peel the onions, put them into cold water, add a teaspoon-
ful of salt, boil gently for f an hour, then strain. Have ready in a
baking-dish some hot butter or hot fat, baste the onions well, place
them in a moderate oven, and bake for if hours, basting frequently.
When done they should be well browned. Serve in a hot vegetable-
dish with the sauce poured over them.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, from 2d. to 3d. per lb. Seasonable
from October to April.
1548. — ONIONS, SPANISH, BOILED. (Fr.— Oignons
d’Espagne bouillis.)
Ingredients. — Spanish onions, white sauce ( see Sauces, No. 223), salt
and pepper.
Method. — Peel the onions, put them into cold water, bring to the boil,
and strain. Have ready a saucepan of boiling water, add to it a tea-
spoonful of salt, put in the onions, and boil gently from if to 2 hours,
according to size. Or they may be steamed, in which case about f an
hour longer must be allowed. Serve with the white sauce poured over
them.
Time. — From if to 2 f hours. Average Cost, 2d. to 3d. per lb. Season-
able from October to April.
1549. — ONIONS, SPANISH, STEWED. (Fr.— Oignons
au Jus.)
Ingredients. — 4 or 5 medium-sized Spanish onions, 1 pint of brown
stock or gravy.
Method. — Peel and trim the onions, cover them with cold water,
bring to the boil, and strain. Select a stewpan large enough to allow
RECIPES FOR COOKING VEGETABLES
851
the onions to stand -side by side, put in the stock, cover closely, and
simmer gently from 1 to 1 \ hours. Serve in a hot vegetable dish with
the gravy poured round.
Time. — From i£ to 2 hours. Average Cost, 2d. to 3d. per lb. Season-
able from October to April.
1550.— ONIONS, SPANISH, STEWED. (Fr.— Oignons
au Jus.) (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 4 or 5 medium-sized Spanish onions, 3 ozs. of butter.
Method. — Blanch the onions as in the preceding recipe. Heat the
butter in a stewpan, stand the onions side by side, cover closely, and
cook very gently at the side of the stove for about 2 hours, basting
frequently. Serve with the butter poured over.
Time. — From 2 to 2\ hours. Average Cost, from 2d. to 3d. per lb.
Seasonable from October to April.
1551— ONIONS, SPANISH, STUFFED. (Fr.— Oignons
Farcis.)
Ingredients. — 6 or 8 rather small Spanish onions, 4 tablespoonfuls of
finely-chopped liver or raw meat (cooked meat of any kind may be used
instead), 1 tablespoonful of parboiled finely-chopped onion, 1 table-
spoonful of breadcrumbs, \ a teaspoonful of powdered sage or mixed
herbs, 1 egg, salt and pepper, of a pint of brown sauce ( see Sauces,
No. 233.)
Method. — Skin and parboil the onions, then with a round cutter or
small knife remove the centre part. Mix all the ingredients, except
the brown sauce, together, fill the onions with the preparation, baste
them well with hot butter or dripping, and bake in a moderate oven
from 30 to 40 minutes, basting frequently. Serve with the sauce
poured over.
Time. — From \\ to i|- hours. Average Cost, is. to is. 2d. Sufficient
for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable from October to April.
See also Chapter on American Cookery.
1552. — PARSNIPS, BOILED. (Fr. — Panais au Naturel.)
Ingredients. — Parsnips; to each \ gallon of water allow 1 heaped
tablespoonful of salt.
Method. — Wash the parsnips, scrape them thoroughly, and with the
point of the knife remove any black specks about them, and should
they be very large, cut the thick part into quarters. Put them into
a saucepan of boiling water, salted in the above proportion, boil them
rapidly until tender, which may be ascertained by piercing them with
852
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
a fork or skewer, take them up, drain them, and serve in a vegetable-
dish. This vegetable is usually served with salt fish, boiled pork or
boiled beef; when sent to table with the latter, a few should be placed
alternately with carrots round the dish, as a garnish.
Time. — Large parsnips, i to hours; small ones, % to i hour. Average
Cost, 2d. per lb. Seasonable from October to May.
The Parsnip (Fr. panais). — This vegetable is found wild in meadows all over Europe, and in Eng-
land is met with very frequently on dry banks in a chalky soil. In its wild state the root is white,
mucilaginous, aromatic and sweet. The cultivated parsnip is much used, and is a highly nutritious
vegetable. In times of scarcity, an excellent bread has been made of its roots, and they also furnish
an excellent wine, resembling the malmsey of Madeira and the Canaries ; a spirit is also obtained
from them in as great quantities as from carrots. The composition of the parsnip-root has been
found to be in ioo parts, 79^4 of water, 69 starch and fibre, 6'i gum, 5 5 sugar, and 21 of albumen.
1553. — PARSNIPS, FRIED. (Fr. — Panais Frits.)
Ingredients. — Parsnips, salt and pepper, egg and breadcrumbs, or
frying-batter.
Method. — Boil the parsnips as in the preceding recipe (cold ones may
be used), cut them into slices, about \ an inch in thickness, sprinkle
them with salt and pepper, and either coat them with egg and bread-
crumbs, or dip them into batter. In either case, they must be fried
until golden-brown in hot fat.
Average Cost, 2d. per lb. Seasonable from October to May.
1554. — PARSNIPS, MASHED.
See Turnips, Mashed, Recipe No. 1627.
1555. — PEAS, GREEN. ( Fr . — Petits Pois Verts.)
Ingredients. — 1 quart of cooked green peas, 2 ozs. of lean cooked ham
cut into dice, 1 oz. of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of good stock, 1 tea-
spoonful of flour, £ a small onion finely-chopped, a pinch of castor
sugar, a pinch of grated nutmeg, salt and pepper.
Method. — Fry the onion until lightly browned in the butter, add the
flour and ham, stir over the fire for a minute or two, then put in the
peas, stock, sugar, and nutmeg. Season to taste, simmer for 10 minutes,
stirring occasionally, then serve.
Time. — About 1 hour, altogether. Average Cost, is. 6d. Sufficient
for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable from May to September.
1556. — PEAS, GREEN, BOILED. (Fr— Petits Pois
verts a l’Anglaise.)
Ingredients. — Green peas, mint, butter, salt and pepper.
Method. — Shell the peas, put them into boiling water, add a little salt
and a sprig of mint, and boil, with the saucepan uncovered, from 10
to 25 minutes, according to age and variety. Drain well, put them
into a hot vegetable dish, season with pepper, add a small piece of
butter, and serve.
RECIPES FOR COOKING VEGETABLES
§53
Time. — From 10 to 25 minutes. Average Cost, from 6d. per peck.
Seasonable from May to September; most plentiful in July and August.
Origin of the Pea. — All the varieties of garden peas which are cultivated have originated from the
Pisum sativum , a native of the south of Europe ; and field peas are varieties of Pisum arvense. The
everlasting pea is Lathy rus latifolius , an old favourite of flower gardens. It is said to yield an abund-
ance of honey to bees, who are remarkably fond of it. In this country the pea has been grown from
time immemorial, but its culture seems to have diminished since the more general introduction of
herbage, plants and roots.
1557.— PEAS, FRENCH STYLE. (Fr.— Petits Pois a la
Framjaise.)
Ingredients.— 1£ pints of shelled peas, 1 oz. of butter, 1 dessertspoonful
of finely-chopped parsley, mint, salt and pepper.
Method. — Boil the peas as in the preceding recipe, drain off the water,
and shake the saucepan over the fire until the greater part of the
moisture has evaporated. Then put in the butter and parsley, season
with pepper, toss over the fire for a few minutes, and serve.
Time. — From 20 to 35 minutes. Average Cost, from 6d. per peck.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable from May to September.
Varieties of the Pea. — The varieties of the pea are numerous ; but they may be divided into two
classes — those grown for the ripened seed, and those grown for gathering in a green state. The culture
of the latter is chiefly confined to the neighbourhoods of large towns, and may be considered as in
part rather to belong to the operations of the market gardener than to those of the agriculturist.
The grey varieties are the early grey, the late grey, and the purple grey, to which some add the
Marlborough grey and the horn grey. The white varieties grown in fields are the pearl, early Charl-
ton, golden hotspur, the common white, or Suffolk, and other Suffolk varieties.
1558.— PEAS, GREEN, STEWED. (Fr.— Petits Pois
a la Frangaise.)
Ingredients. — 1 quart of peas, 1 lettuce, 2 ozs. of butter, pepper and
salt to taste, 1 egg, \ a teaspoonful of powdered sugar.
Method. — Shell the peas, and slice the onions and cut lettuces, into fine
shreds ; put these into a stewpan with the butter, pepper and salt, but no
more water than that which hangs round the lettuce after washing it.
Stew the whole very gently for rather more than 1 hour, then stir into the
mixture a well-beaten egg, and about \ a teaspoonful of powdered
sugar. When the peas, etc., are nicely blended, serve, but after the
egg is added, do not allow them to re-boil.
Time. — ij- hours. Average Cost from 6d. per peck. Seasonable from
May to September. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
The Sweet Pea, and the Heath or Wood Pea. — The well-known sweet pea forms a handsome
covering to a trellis, or lattice-work in a flower garden. Its gay and fragrant flowers, with its ramb-
ling habits, render it peculiarly adapted for such purposes. The wood pea or heath pea, is found
in the heaths of Scotland, and the Highlanders of that country are extremely partial to them. The
peas have a sweet taste, somewhat like the root of liquorice, and when boiled have an agreeable flavour,
and are nutritive. In times of scarcity they have served as an article of food. When well boiled
a fork will pass through them ; and slightly dried, they are roasted, and in Holland and Flanders
served up like chestnuts,
854 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1559. — PEAS, TINNED, TO DRESS.
Ingredients. — 1 pint of preserved peas, butter, mint, sugar, salt and
pepper.
Method. — Strain the liquor from the peas, and wash and drain them
well. Have ready a saucepan of boiling water, add 2 or 3 sprigs of
mint, and when they have infused for 5 minutes, put in the peas,
together with a little salt and a good pinch of sugar. Let the peas
remain in the water for a few minutes, then drain them well, sprinkle
them with pepper, and add a little cold butter. Or, instead of serving
them plainly, dress them as directed under the heading Peas. When
fresh mint is not procurable, serve the peas sprinkled with powdered
mint.
Time.— To heat the peas, about 10 minutes. Average Cost, pd. to iod.
Seasonable at any time.
1560. — PEASE PUDDING.
Ingredients. — 1£ pints of split peas, 2 ozs. of butter, 2 eggs, pepper
and salt to taste.
Method. — Put the peas to soak over night in water, and float off any
that may be worm-eaten or discoloured. Tie them loosely in a clean cloth,
leaving a little room for them to swell, and put them on to boil in cold
rain-water, allowing 2-|- hours after the water has simmered up. When
the peas are tender, well rub them through a colander with a wooden
spoon, and add the butter, eggs, pepper and salt. Beat all well together
for a few minutes, until the ingredients are well incorporated, then
tie them tightly in a floured cloth, and boil the pudding for
another hour. Turn it on to the dish, and serve very hot.
Time. — Altogether, about 3^- hours. Average Cost, yd. Sufficient
for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
1561. — POTATOES, BAKED. ( Fr . — Pommes de Terre.)
Ingredients. — Potatoes.
Method. — Choose large potatoes, as much of a size as possible; wash
them in lukewarm water, and scrub them well, for the brown skin of a
baked potato is by many persons considered the better part of it.
Put them in a moderate oven, and bake them for about 2 hours, turning
them 3 or 4 times while they are cooking. Serve them in a napkin
immediately they are done, for, if they are kept a long time in the oven
they will have a shrivelled appearance. Potatoes may also be roasted
before the fire in an American oven; but when thus cooked, they must
be done very slowly.
Time. — From 1 to 2 hours, according to size. Average Cost, id. per lb.
Seasonable all the year.
RECIPES FOR COOKING VEGETABLES 855
1562. — POTATO BALLS. (Fr. — Croquettes de Pommes
de Terre.)
Ingredients. — Mashed potatoes, salt and pepper to taste; when liked,
a very little minced parsley, egg and breadcrumbs.
Method. — Boil and mash the potatoes (see Potatoes, Mashed,
Recipe No. 1575), add a seasoning of pepper and salt, and, when
liked, a little minced parsley. Roll the potatoes into small balls,
cover them with egg and breadcrumbs, and fry in hot oil or dripping
until light-brown. Let them drain on a cloth or paper, dish them on a
napkin, and serve.
Time. — 10 minutes to fry the balls. Seasonable at any time.
The Potato. — The potato belongs to the family of the Solanaceae, the greater number of which
grow in the tropics, and the remainder are distributed over the temperate regions of both hemispheres,
but do not extend to the Arctic and Antarctic zones. The whole of the family possess valuable
qualities ; some species are narcotic, as the tobacco-plant, and others, as the henbane and nightshade,
are deleterious. The roots partake of the properties of the plants, and are sometimes even more
active. The tubers of such as produce them are amylaceous and nutritive, as in those of the
potato. The leaves are generally narcotic, but they lose this principle in boiling, as in the case with
the solatium nigrum, which is used as a vegetable when cooked.
1563. — POTATO CHIPS.
See Potatoes, Fried, Recipe No. 1569.
1564. — POTATO CROQUETTES.
See Potato Balls, Recipe No. 1562.
1565. — POTATOES, BOILED. (Fr. — Pommes de Terre
au Naturel.)
Ingredients — Potatoes, salt.
Method. — Choose potatoes of equal size, scrub them, peel them thinly,
wash them well in clean cold water, but do not let them remain in it
for more than 10 minutes. Put them into a saucepan, with sufficient
boiling water to cover them, add a teaspoonful of salt to each quart
of water, and boil gently from 20 to 40 minutes, according to age and
size. Ascertain when they are done by trying one with a skewer;
if soft, drain off the water, put the saucepan by the side of the fire
with the lid tilted, to allow the steam to escape, let them remain for
about 10 minutes, then serve.
Time. — From 20 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, id. per lb. Seasonable
at any time.
Note. — Opinions are divided as to whether potatoes should be put into cold
or boiling water. Those who adopt the former method can give no reason
for so doing, save that of its being an old custom, whereas many who have
made a scientific study of the culinary treatment of this vegetable, assert,
and with good reason, that the darker layer of potato immediately under
the skin is composed almost entirely of gluten, a substance which, like albu-
men, when subjected to the temperature of boiling water, at once hardens,
856
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
forming an impervious layer that prevents the water reaching the inner
starchy part of the potato. Consequently, the potatoes are more dry and
floury than they would otherwise be. Potatoes may be kept hot for some
time, without spoiling, if covered with a folded cloth to absorb the moisture,
and the saucepan itself uncovered, to allow the steam to escape.
Potato-Sugar. — This sugar substance, found in the tubers of potatoes, is obtained in the form
of syrup or treacle. It resembles grape-sugar, is not crystallizable, and is less sweet than cane-sugar.
It is used to make sweetmeats and as a substitute for honey, f o lb. of potatoes, yielding 8 lb. of dry
starch, will produce 7} lb. of sugar. In Russia it is extensively made, and is as good, though of less
consistency, than the treacle obtained from cane-sugar. A cheap and common spirit is also distilled
from the tubers, which resembles brandy, but is milder, and has a flavour resembling the odour of
violets or raspberries. In France this manufacture is carried on somewhat extensively, and 500 lb.
of the tubers will produce 12 lb. of the spirits, the pulp being utilized for feeding cattle.
1566.— POTATOES, COLD, TO USE.
Ingredients. — i lb. of cold potatoes, i oz. of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of
finely-chopped onion, 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, milk, salt and pepper.
Method. — Pass the potatoes through a sieve, or beat them smooth
with a fork. Add the butter, onion, and sufficient milk to moisten
them, season to taste with salt and pepper, and press the mixture
into a well-greased mould or basin. Bake in a moderate oven for about
\ an hour, then turn the potatoes out and serve. For other methods
of utilising cold potatoes, see Bubble and Squeak, Potato Balls,
Potatoes, Mashed and Baked, and Potatoes with Maitre d’Hotel
Sauce.
Time. — To bake the mould, about \ an hour. Average Cost, 2d. to
2-Jd. Sufficient tor 2 or 3 persons. Seasonable at any time.
1567.— POTATOES, CRISP.
See Potatoes, Fried, Recipe No. 1569.
I568.— POTATOES WITH CHEESE. (Fr. — Souffle de
Pommes de Terre au Fromage.)
Ingredients.— 3 medium-sized potatoes, 2 whites of eggs, 1 yolk of
egg, 1 heaped tablespoonful of grated cheese, 2 tablespoonfuls of milk,
1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 1 oz. of butter, salt and pepper
Method. — Scrub the potatoes and bake them in their skins. When
ready, cut in halves, empty the skins into a small stewpan, add the
cheese, butter, yolk of egg, milk and parsley, season with salt and pepper,
and mix well over the fire Beat the whites stiffly, stir them lightly in,
then fill the potato skins with the mixture, piling it somewhat high.
Brush over with a little yolk of egg, and bake in a moderate oven for
about 15 minutes.
RECIPES FOR COOKING VEGETABLES 857
Time. — From iP to 2 hours. Average Cost, 6d. Seasonable at any time.
Sufficient for 6 persons.
Note. — This mixture can also be baked in scallop shells or patty-pans,
which should be previously well buttered and covered with breadcrumbs.
Analysis of thf. Potato. — Next to the seeds of the cereals, the potato is the most valuable plant
for the production of human food. Its tubers, according to analysis, contain the following ingredi-
ents : 75*52 starch, 0*55 dextrine, 3*3 of impure saccharine matter, and 3*25 of fibre with coagulated
albumen. In a dried state the tuber contains 6,1/2 per cent, of starch. 2*25 of dextrine, 13*47 of impure
saccharine matter, 5*13 of caseine, gluten and albumen, 1 of fatty matter, and i3"3i of fibre and
coagulated albumen.
1569. — POTATOES, FRIED. ( Fr . — Pommes de Terre
Frites.)
Ingredients. — Potatoes, hot oil or clarified dripping, salt.
Method. — Peel and cut the potatoes into thin slices, as nearly the
same size as possible, parboil them, and dry them in a cloth. Make
some oil or dripping quite hot in a saucepan, put in the potatoes, and
fry to a nice brown. When they are crisp and done take them up,
drain them on paper before the fire, ana serve very hot, after sprinkling
them with salt. These are delicious with rump-steak, and in France
are frequently served as a breakfast dish. The remains of cold potatoes
may be sliced and fried by the above recipe, but the slices must be cut
a little thicker.
Time. — Sliced raw potatoes, 25 minutes; cooked potatoes, 15 minutes.
Average Cost, id. per lb. Seasonable at any time.
Uses of the Potato. — Potatoes boiled and beaten with sour milk form a sort of cheese which is
made in Saxony, and when kept in close vessels may be preserved for several years. Potatoes which
have been exposed to the air and become green are very unwholesome. It is asserted that potatoes
will clean linen as well as soap ; and it is well known that the berries of Solatium saponaceum are used
in Peru for the same purpose.
1570. — POTATOES, FRIED. (Fr. — Pommes de Terre
Frites.) (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 6 potatoes, ^ a lb. of butter, salt.
Method. — Peel the potatoes very evenly, cut them into slices as thin
as possible. Place the butter in a frying-pan, and as soon as it is
boiling add the sliced potatoes, and fry them of a bright gold colour,
shaking them so as to cook them equally. Drain on sheets of paper
before the fire, powder with salt, and serve very hot. Serve with
game.
Time.— 10 to 12 minutes to fry. Average Cost, id. per lb. Sufficient
for 3 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Note. — Potato Bread. — The adhesive tendency of the flour of the potato
prevents its being baked or kneaded without being mixed with wheaten flour
or meal ; it may, however be made into cakes in the following manner : A
small wooden frame, nearly square, is laid on a pan like a frying-pan, and
is grooved and so constructed that, by means of a presser or lid introduced
858
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
into the groove, the cake is at once fashioned, according to the dimensions
of the mould. The frame containing the farina may be almost immediately
withdrawn after the mould is formed upon the pan, because from the
consistency imparted to the incipient cake by the heat, it will speedily admit
of being safely handled ; it must not, however, be fried too hastily. It will
then eat very palatably, and might from time to time be soaked for pud-
dings, like tapioca, or be used like the casada-cake, for, when well buttered
and toasted, it is excellent for breakfast.
1571. — POTATOES, IRISH WAY TO BOIL.
(. Fr . — Pommes de Terre a T Irlandaise.)
Ingredients. — Potatoes, water.
Method. — Wash and scrub the potatoes, but do not peel them. Put
them into a saucepan of boiling water, boil slowly until they can be
easily pierced with a fork, then immediately add sufficient cold water
to reduce the temperature several degrees below boiling point. Let
them remain for 2 or 3 minutes, then pour off the water, cover the
potatoes with a folded cloth, and allow them to stand by the side of
the fire until the steam has evaporated. Peel them quickly, and
send them to table in an open dish, in order that the steam may escape,
otherwise the potatoes may be watery.
Time. — To boil the potatoes, from 20 to 30 minutes. Average Cost,
id. per lb. Seasonable at any time.
1572. — POTATO RIBBONS, FRIED. (Fr.— Pommes de
Terre Frites.)
Ingredients. — Potatoes, frying-fat.
Method. — Peel the potatoes, throw them into cold water for 10
minutes, dry with a clean cloth, and peel them into ribbons, -J an inch
wide, with a . small sharp knife, cutting round and round. Divide
these into 6-inch lengths, tie into knots, fry in a frying-basket in a deep
pan of hot fat until golden-brown, then drain well on a paper, and serve.
Time. — From 5 to 6 minutes to fry. Average Cost, id. per lb. Season-
able at any time.
Preserving Potatoes. — In general, potatoes are stored or preserved in pits, cellars, pies or camps;
but, whatever method is adopted, it is essential that the tubers are perfectly dry, otherwise they will
surely rot ; and a few rotten potatoes will contaminate a whole mass. The pie, as it is called, con-
sists of a trench, lined and covered with straw, the potatoes in it being piled in the shape of a house roof,
to the height of about three feet. The camps are shallow pits, filled and ridged up in a similar manner,
covered up with the excavated mould of the pit. In Russia and Canada, the potato is preserved
in boxes, in houses or cellars, heated, when necessary, by stoves to a temperature of one or two degrees
above the freezing-point. To keep potatoes for a considerable time, the best way is to place them
in thin layers on a platform suspended in an ice-cellar ; there the temperature being always below
that of active vegetation, they will not sprout ; while, not being above one or two degrees below
freezing point, the tubers will not be frost-bitten. Another method is to scoop out the eyes, with a
very small scoop, and keep the roots buried in earth ; a third method is to destroy the vital principle,
by kiln-drying, steaming, or scalding ; a fourth is to bury them so deep in dry soil, that no change of
temperature will reach them, and thus, being without air, they will remain upwards of a year without
vegetating.
RECIPES FOR COOKING VEGETABLES
859
11573. — POTATOES, GERMAN METHOD OF COOK-
ING. (Fr. — Pommes de Terre a l’Alle-
mande.)
Ingredients. — 8 or 9 medium-sized potatoes, 2 ozs. of butter, 2 table-
spoonfuls of flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, C a pint of stock, salt
and pepper.
Method. — Peel and slice the potatoes thinly. Heat the butter in a
stewpan, add the flour, and. when lightly browned, stir in the stock
and vinegar. Bring to the boil, season to taste, put in the sliced
potatoes, and simmer very gently until tender.
Time. — About 25 minutes. Average Cost, 4d. to 5d. Sufficient for
3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.
1574. — POTATOES, LYONNAISE STYLE.
(Fr. — Pommes de Terre a la Lyonnaise.)
Ingredients. — 6 or 8 boiled potatoes sliced, 3 rather small onions,
ij ozs. of butter, finely-chopped parsley, salt and pepper.
Method. — Peel the onions, cut them across into slices, fry these
brown in butter, and keep them hot. Strain and return the butter
to the saute-pan, put in the sliced potato and fry until well-browned,
keeping the slices unbroken. Season with salt and pepper, serve on a
hot dish garnished with the fried slices of onion, and sprinkle lightly
with parsley.
Time. — To cook the onions, from 5 to 6 minutes; to saute the potatoes,
10 minutes. Average Cost, 5d. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable
at any time.
1575. — POTATOES, MASHED. (Fr. Puree de Pommes
de Terre.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of potatoes, 1 oz. of butter, 1 or 2 tablespoonfuls
of milk, salt.
Method. — Peel and steam the potatoes over a saucepan of boiling
water, or boil them in their skins, and afterwards peel them. In
either case, pass the potatoes through a wire sieve, or mash them
well with a fork. Heat the butter in a stewpan, add the milk, stir
in the potato, and season to taste with salt. Beat well with a wooden
spoon, pile lightly in a hot dish, then serve. See Potato Rice,
Potato, and Potato Vermicelli.
Time. — To steam the potatoes, from 30 to 40 minutes. Average Cost,
id. per lb. Sufficient for 3 persons. Seasonable at any time.
1576. — POTATOES, MASHED AND BAKED.
(Fr. — Pommes de Terre a la Duchesse.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of cold mashed potato, i-| ozs. of butter, 1 heaped
86o
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
tablespoonful of grated cheese, preferably Parmesan, i tablespoonful
of milk (about), the yolk of i egg, salt and pepper.
Method. — Boil the potatoes, and rub them through a sieve whilst
hot. Mix all the ingredients well together in a stewpan over the fire,
then spread it on a floured board, and shape into rolls about inches
long, and rather less than i inch in width. Or, cut into triangular
or diamond-shaped pieces, place on a greased baking-tin, brush over
with egg, and bake them in a moderately hot oven until nicely browned.
Before serving, brush over with warm butter, and sprinkle with finely-
chopped parsley. The potatoes may be served as a separate dish,
or used as a garnish for many entrees and “ dressed vegetables.”
Time. — From ij to i\ hours. Average Cost, about 6d. Seasonable
at any time.
i 577-— POTATO NESTS.
See Potatoes with Cheese. (Recipe No. 1568). The cheese is
usually, but not necessarily, omitted in Potato Nests.
1578. — POTATO PUFF.
See Potato Souffle, Recipe No. 1 586. When small puffs are required,
force themixture on to a greased baking-tin in small rounds, and
cook in a moderately-hot oven until lightly -browned.
1579. — POTATOES, PARISIAN. (Fr. — Pommes Pari-
sienne.)
Ingredients. — Potatoes, 2 or 3 ozs. of butter, 1 teaspoonful of finely-
chopped parsley, salt.
Method. — With a large round vegetable scoop prepare as many
potatoes as may be required. To 1 pint allow the above proportions
of butter and parsley. Heat the butter in a saute-pan, fry the potatoes
over the fire until well browned, then cook more slowly in the oven
until tender. Drain off the butter, season with salt, sprinkle with
parsley, and serve.
Time. — About 15 minutes. Average Cost, id. per lb. Seasonable at
any time.
1580. — POTATOES WITH JACKETS.
See Potatoes, Irish Way to Boil, Recipe No. 1571.
1581. — POTATOES, ROASTED.
See Potatoes, Baked, Recipe No. 1561.
1582. — POTATO RISSOLES.
See Potato Balls, Recipe No. 1562.
RECIPES FOR COOKING VEGETABLES
86 1
1583.— POTATOES WITH MAITRE D’HOTEL SAUCE.
(Fr. — Pommes de Terre a la Maitre d’ Hotel:)
Ingredients. — Cold boiled potatoes, •§• a pint of stock or milk, the yolk of
1 egg, 1 oz. of butter, a dessertspoonful of flour, tablespoonful of chopped
parsley, \ a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the potatoes into thick slices. Melt the butter in a
stewpan, stir in the flour, add the stock or milk, and boil well from
10 to 15 minutes. Season to taste, put in the slices of potatoes, let them
become thoroughly hot, then draw the stewpan aside, put in the lemon-
juice and parsley, add the yolk of egg, and stir gently until it thickens.
The egg may be omitted, in which case a level tablespoonful of flour
must be substituted for the smaller quantity given above.
Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. Seasonable at any
time.
1584. — POTATOES, SAUTE OR TOSSED.
(Fr. — Pommes de Terre Sautees.^
Ingredients. — Potatoes, salt and pepper. To 5 or 6 allow 1 oz. of
butter.
Method. — Choose rather waxy and even-sized potatoes, wash and boil
them in their skins until three parts cooked, let them dry thoroughly,
then peel and slice them rather fhinly. Heat the butter in a saute-
or frying-pan, put in the potatoes, and season with salt and pepper.
Toss them over the fire until they acquire a little colour, then serve.
Time. — To saute the potatoes, from 4 to 5 minutes. Average Cost,
2d. to 3d. Sufficient for 2 or 3 persons. Seasonable at any time.
1585. — POTATO STRAWS. (Fr.— Pommes Pailles.)
Ingredients. — 5 or 6 medium-sized potatoes, frying-fat, salt.
Method. — Peel and slice the potatoes thinly, cut them into strips
about 1 Jr inches long, then wash and drain them well, and dry them
on a cloth. Have ready a deep pan of hot fat, fry the straws in a,
basket until crisp, drain free from fat, sprinkle with salt, and serve.
Time. — To fry the straws, about 15 minutes. Average Cost, 3d. Suffi-
cient for 2 or 3 persons. Seasonable at any time.
1586. — POTATO SOUFFLE. (Fr. — Souffle de Pommes
de Terre.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of mealy potatoes, 1 oz. of butter, 1 gill of cream,
3 eggs, salt and pepper, nutmeg.
Method. — As soon as the potatoes are cooked, drain and dry them
carefully, and rub them through a fine wire sieve. Put them into a
862
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
basin, and add salt, pepper, and a grating of nutmeg to season. Melt
the butter, and stir in, one by one, the yolks of eggs, and the cream,
lastly add the whites of eggs, previously whisked to a stiff froth. Put
the mixture into a buttered pie-dish, or into small buttered china or
paper souffle cases. Bake in a hot oven for about 20 minutes. Small
cases will take rather less time.
Time. — From to i-|- hours. Average Cost, iod. Seasonable at any
time.
1587. — POTATO RICE. (Fr. — Pommes de Terre au
Riz.)
Ingredients. — Potatoes, salt and butter.
Method. — Choose white potatoes, boil them until tender, and mash
them. Press them through a large colander on to a hot dish before a
fire, shaking the colander lightly every other minute to cause the pota-
toes to fall off in short grains like rice; serve very hot.
Time. — From 40 to 50 minutes. Average Cost, id. per lb. Seasonable
at any time.
1588. — POTATO SNOW. ( Fr . — Pommes de Terre au
Neige.)
Ingredients. — Potatoes, salt and water.
Method. — Choose white potatoes, as free from spots as possible, boil
them in their skins in salt and water until perfectly tender, drain and
dry them thoroughly by the side of the fire, and peel them. Put a hot
dish before the fire, rub the potatoes through a coarse sieve on to this
dish; do not touch them afterwards, or the flakes will fall; serve as hot
as possible.
Time.— From 40 to 50 minutes. Average Cost, id. per lb. Seasonable
at any time.
1589. — POTATO VERMICELLI.
Ingredients. — Potatoes, salt and water.
Method. — Prepare and cook the potatoes as in either of the two
preceding recipes, then press them through a metal potato masher into
a hot vegetable dish.
Time. — From 40 to 50 minutes. Average Cost, id. per lb. Seasonable
at any time.
1590. — POTATOES, TO BOIL NEW. (Fr.— Pommes de
Terre.)
Ingredients.— Potatoes ; to each \ gallon of water allow 1 heaped
tablespoonful of salt, a few sprigs of mint.
RECIPES FOR COOKING VEGETABLES
863
Method. — Have the potatoes as fresh as possible, for they are never
good when they have been some time out of the ground. Well wash
them, rub or scrape off the skins, and put them and the mint into
boiling water salted in the above proportion. Let them boil until
tender; try them with a fork, and, when done, pour away the water.
Allow them to stand by the side of the fire with the lid of the
saucepan partially removed, and when they are thoroughly dry, put
them in a hot vegetable dish, with a piece of butter the size of a
walnut. If they are old, boil them in their jackets; drain, peel, and
serve them as above, placing a piece of butter in the centre. Parsley
chopped and mixed with the butter is an improvement.
Time. — £ to \ an hour, according to the size. Average Cost, in full
season i|d. per lb. Sufficient, 3 lb. for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable in
May and June, but may be had forced in March and April.
Potato Starch. — This fecula has a beautiful white crystalline appearance, and is inodorous, soft
to the touch, insoluble in cold, but readily soluble in boiling, water. It is on this starch that the
nutritive properties of the tubers depend. As an aliment, it is well adapted for invalids and persons
* of delicate constitutions. It may be prepared as arrowroot, and eaten with milk or sugar. For
pastry of all kinds, it is lighter and easier of digestion than that made with the flour of wheat.
In confectionery it serves to form creams and jellies, and in cookery may be used to thicken soups
and sauces. It accommodates itself to the stomachs of children, for whom it is well adapted ; and it is
an aliment that cannot be too generally used, as much on account of its wholesomeness as Its
cheapness and the ease with which it is kept. These qualities render it equal, if not superior, to
tapioca, sago and arrowroot.
1591.— POTATOES, TO STEAM.
Ingredients. — Potatoes, boiling water.
Method. — This method of cooking potatoes is now much in vogue,
from its convenience when large quantities are required. Pare the
potatoes, throw them into cold water as they are peeled, then put them
in a steamer. Place the steamer over a saucepan of boiling water, and
steam the potatoes from 30 to 40 minutes, according to the size and
sort. When the fork goes easily through the potatoes they are done;
then take them up, dish, and serve very quickly.
Time. — From 30 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, id. per lb. Seasonable
at any time.
1592. — PUMPKIN, FRIED.
See Vegetable Marrow, Fried, Recipe No. 1631.
1593. — PUMPKIN, MASHED.
See Vegetable Marrow, Mashed, Recipe No. 1633.
1594. — PUMPKIN PIE.
Ingredients. — 1 pumpkin, 5 eggs, milk, castor sugar, £ of a teaspoonful
of grated lemon-rind, 1 pinch each of cinnamon and ginger, short
crust paste, salt.
864
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Peel and slice the pumpkin, remove the seeds, boil it in
slightly-salted water until tender, and pass it through a fine sieve.
Beat and add the eggs, sweeten to taste, put in the lemon-rind, cinna-
mon and ginger, and stir in gradually sufficient milk to reduce the
consistency to that of thick batter. Turn the mixture into a piedish
lined with short crust paste, cover and bake in a moderately hot
oven from 40 to 45 minutes. Serve hot.
Time. — To bake the pie, from 40 to 45 minutes. Average Cost, un-
certain. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable in summer.
1595. — PUMPKIN AND APPLE PIE.
Ingredients. — Pumpkin, apples, sugar, ground allspice, paste.
Method. — Remove the rind, seeds and puffy centre part of the pump-
kin, and slice the rest thinly. Fill a piedish with alternate layers of
apple and pumpkin, sprinkling each layer with sugar and a pinch of
allspice. Add 3 or 4 tablespoonfuls of water, cover with paste, and
bake in a moderately-hot oven from 45 to 60 minutes. Serve hot.
Time. — To bake, from 45 to 60 minutes. Average Cost, uncertain.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable in summer.
1596. — SALSIFY, BOILED. (. Fr . — Salsifis bouillis,
Sauce Blanche.)
Ingredients. — Salsify: to each \ gallon of water allow 1 heaped table-
spoonful of salt, 1 oz. of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice.
Method. — Scrape the roots gently, so as to strip them only of their
outside peel; cut them into pieces about 4 inches long, and, as they are
peeled, throw them into water mixed with a little lemon-juice, to prevent
their discolouring. Put them into boiling water with salt, butter and
lemon-juice in the above proportion, and let them boil rapidly until
tender; try them with a fork, and, when it penetrates easily, the roots
are done. Drain the salsify, and serve with good white sauce.
Time. — From 30 to 40 minutes. Seasonable from December to March.
Note. — Salsify may also be cooked according to any of the recipes given
for dressing celery.
Salsify (Fr. salsifis ), or purple goat’s beard, is a plant indigenous to England, belonging to the
same tribe as chicory or lettuce. It is less often eaten in England than on the Continent and in
America, where it is known from its peculiar taste as the “ oyster plant.” The root is long and taper-
ing, similar to the parsnip.
1 597. — SCALLOPED OYSTER PLANT. (Fr.— Salsifis.)
Ingredients. — 1 \ lb. of stewed oyster plant (salsify), 3 ozs. of butter,
\ a gill of milk, salt to taste, a pinch of cayenne pepper.
Method. — When the oyster plant is boiled tender, rub it through a
sieve; add part of the butter and all the other ingredients, mix well,
put in a baking-dish, cover the top with grated breadcrumbs and the
rest of the butter. Bake it a delicate brown, and serve hot.
VEGETABLES
1 ■ — Braized Celery. 2.— Leeks. 3.. — Boiled Seal'ale. 4. — Brussels Sprouts.
5- — Baked Potatoes. 6. — Parsnips. 7.— Boiled Potatoes. 8. — Artichokes.
9. — Cabbage. 10. — Braized Onions.
RECIPES FOR COOKING VEGETABLES 865
Time. — 15 minutes. Cost is. to is. 3d. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Seasonable in winter.
1598.— SUCCOTASH.
Ingredients. — 1 pint of shelled beans, 12 ears of fresh corn, 1 gill of
cream or milk, 1 oz. of butter, salt and pepper.
Method. — Wash the beans, and cook them till almost tender in salted
water. Drain them, and add the cream or milk and a gill of the liquor,
also the corn, and simmer for about 15 minutes. At this stage put
in the butter, and season slightly with salt and pepper. Serve hot.
Time. — 45 minutes. Average Cost, is. 2d. Sufficient for 4 persons.
Seasonable August to October.
15 99-— SWEET POTATOES, TO COOK, DRIED.
Method. — Pour boiling water over the potatoes the night before they
are wanted. The next day drain and peel, boil, and dress with butter.
Varieties of the Potato. — These are very numerous. “ They differ,” says an authority, “ in
their leaves and bulk of haulm ; in the colour of the skin of the tubers ; in the colour of the interior,
compared with that of the skin ; in the time of ripening ; in being farinaceous, glutinous, or watery ;
in tasting agreeably or disagreeably ; in cooking readily or tediously ; in the length of the subter-
raneous stolens to which the tubers are attached ; in blossoming or not blossoming ; and, finally,
in the soil which they prefer.” The earliest varieties grown in fields are — the early kidney, the Non-
such, the early Shaw, and the early Champion. The last is the most generally cultivated round
London ; it is both mealy and hardy. The sweet potato is but rarely eaten in Britain ; but in America
it is often served at table, and is there very highly esteemed.
1600. — SWEET POTATOES, ROAST.
Method. — Lay the potatoes in a Dutch oven in front of the fire or in a
hot oven, turning them occasionally until cooked. Scrape off the outer
skin, and cut into pieces, or mash the butter, season, and serve hot.
1601. — SWEET POTATO FRITTERS.
Ingredients. — | a lb. of sweet potatoes, 2 tablespoonfuls of warm
butter, 1 tablespoonful of flour, 2 eggs and a little salt, frying-fat,
egg and breadcrumbs.
Method. — Prepare, boil, and mash the potatoes; add to them the
butter, flour, and 2 eggs, and season with salt. Form the mixture into
small round flat cakes, coat them carefully with egg and breadcrumbs,
fry in hot fat until nicely browned, then drain well, and serve as a sweet
with sugar and ground cinnamon.
Time. — To fry the fritters, 4 or 5 minutes. Average Cost, 8d. or 9d.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.
1602. SAVOY, TO DRESS.
See recipes for Cooking Cabbage, on pages 822-5.
1603. — SEA-KALE, BOILED. ( Fr . — Choux Marins.)
Ingredients. — To each \ gallon of water allow 1 heaped tablespoonful
of salt.
866
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Well wash the kale, cut away any worm eaten pieces, and
tie it into small bunches. Put it into boiling water, salted in the above
proportion, and let it boil quickly until tender. Take it out, drain,
untie the bunches, and serve with plain melted butter or white sauce,
a little of which may be poured over the kale. Sea-kale may also be
parboiled and stewed in good brown gravy; it will then take about
\ an hour altogether.
Time. — 25 minutes. When liked very thoroughly done, allow an
extra 5 minutes. Average Cost, in full season, gd. per basket. Sufficient,
12 heads for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable from February to June.
Sea-Kale (Fr. chou mnrins). — This plant belongs to the asparagus tribe, and grows on sea shores
especially in the west of England, and in the neighbourhood of Dublin. Although it is now in very
general use, it did not come into repute till 1794. It is easily cultivated, and is esteemed as one of
the most valuable esculents indigenous to Britain. As a vegetable, it is stimulating to the appetite,
easily digestible, and nutritious. It is so light that the most delicate organizations may readily eat
it The flowers form a favourite resort for bees, as their petals contain a great amount of saccharine
matter.
1604. — SORREL, PUREE OF. {Fr.— Puree d’Oiselle.)
Ingredients. — 3 lbs. of sorrel, 1 oz. of butter, 1 or 2 tablespoonfuls of
either gravy or cream, flour, salt and pepper.
Method. — Pick the sorrel, remove the stalks, then wash it well,
changing the water frequently. Put it into a saucepan with as much
water as will barely cover the bottom of the pan, sprinkle with salt,
and cook gently for about 20 minutes, turning it over, and pressing it
down repeatedly with a spoon, in order to equalize the cooking. Drain
well, rub through a fine sieve, put the puree into a stewpan, add the
butter, cream or gravy, season well with salt and pepper, and stir
over the fire for 8 or 10 minutes, dredging in gradually a little flour
until the puree acquires the desired consistence, then serve.
Time. — About 45 minutes. Average Cost, 3d. per lb. Sufficient for
4 or 5 persons. Seasonable, in best condition from May to October.
1605. — SPANISH SALAD. {Fr. — Salade Espagnole.)
Method. — Peel a large Spanish onion, cut it into very thin slices ;
with this mix a finely-sliced cucumber and 6 firm but ripe tomatoes,
also cut into slices. Season with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar, and
sprinkle some finely-grated Parmesan cheese between each layer.
Garnish with stoned Spanish olives, and serve.
Average Cost, is. 6d. to 2s. Seasonable at any time.
1606. — SPINACH, BOILED. (Fr— Puree d’Epinards.)
Ingredients. — 3 lb. of spinach, 1 oz. of butter, 1 tablespoonful of flour,
salt and pepper.
Method -Pick off the stalks, and wash the spinach in cold water
until free from grit. Then put it into a saucepan with about a level
tablespoonful of salt, and just sufficient water to cover the bottom
RECIPES FOR COOKING VEGETABLES
867
of the pan. Boil uncovered from 15 to 25 minutes, occasionally pressing
it down, and turning it over with a wooden spoon. When done, rub
it through a fine sieve; put it into a stewpan with the butter, season
well with pepper, sprinkle in the flour, and stir over the fire for 5 or 6
minutes. Serve on a hot dish garnished with croutons of fried or
toasted bread, or fleurons of puff-paste.
Time. — From 20 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, from 2d. per lb. Suffi-
cient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable, spring spinach from March to
July; winter spinach from November to March.
Spinach (Fr. epinards). — A genus of plant belonging to the natural order Chenopodiacece. Its
leaves are shaped like worms, and of a succulent kind. In its geographical distribution spinach is
commonly found in extra- tropical and temperate regions, where it grows as a weed in waste places
and among rubbish, and in marshes by the sea shore. In the tropics the genus is rarely found. Many
of the species are used as pot-herbs, and some of them are emetic and vermifuge in their medicinal
properties. Spinach has been cultivated in our gardens since the end of the seventeenth century.
It is not very nutritious, but it is wholesome and easily digested. It is very light and laxative. 'Wonder-
ful properties have been ascribed to spinach. It is an excellent vegetable, used sometimes in salads,
but more usually eaten cooked.
1607.— SPINACH WITH BROWN GRAVY.
(Fr. — Epinards au Jus.)
Ingredients. — 4 lbs. of spinach, 4 tablespoonfuls of brown gravy, 1
tablespoonful of flour, salt and pepper.
Method. — Prepare and cook the spinach as in the preceding recipe.
Rub it through a fine sieve, put it into a stewpan with the butter,
gravy, and a little pepper, sprinkle in the flour, and stir over the fire
until the puree acquires a thick creamy consistency. The spinach
may be piled on croutons of fried or toasted bread, or served on a hot
dish, surrounded by croutons of fried bread, and garnished with leaves,
or other small designs of puff-paste, or white of egg.
Time. — From 20 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, from 2d.*per lb. Suffi-
cient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable from November to July.
1608. - SPINACH WITH CREAM. (Fr.— Epinards a la
Creme.)
This recipe differs from the preceding one, Epinards au Jus, only
in having 4 tablespoonfuls of cream substituted for the brown gravy.
Varieties of Spinach. — These comprise the strawberry spinach, which, under that name, was
wont to be grown in our flower-gardens; the Good King Harry, the Orach or Garden Spinach, the
Prickly-fruited and the Smooth-fruited, are the varieties commonly used. The Orach is a hardy sort,
much esteemed in France, and is a native of Tartary, introduced in 1548. The common spinach
has its leaves round, and is softer and more succulent than any of the Brassica tribe.
1609. — SPINACH WITH POACHED EGGS.
(. Fr . — Epinards aux Oeufs Poches.)
Ingredients. — 2 or 3 lb. of spinach puree, 6 poached eggs, fleurons of
puff-paste, or croutons of fried bread.
Method. — Prepare the pui'ee according to directions given in any
868
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
of the preceding three recipes. Poach the eggs in as plump a form as
possible, and trim them to a nice round shape. Serve the spinach
on a hot dish, place the eggs on the top, and garnish the base with the
fleurons or croutons.
Time.— About 30 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. to 2s. Sufficient
for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable from November to July.
1610. — SQUASH, TO DRESS.
See American Cookery.
1611. — TOMATOES, BAKED. (Fr. — Tomates au
Gratin.)
Ingredients. — 8 to 10 tomatoes, pepper and salt to taste, 2 ozs. of
butter, breadcrumbs.
Method. — Take the stalks off the tomatoes, cut them in halves,
and put them into a deep baking-dish with a seasoning of pepper
and salt and butter in the above proportion. Cover the whole
with breadcrumbs; drop over these a little clarified butter, bake in a
moderate oven from 20 minutes to \ an hour, and serve very hot. This
vegetable, dressed as above, is an exceedingly nice accompaniment
to all kinds of roast meats. The tomatoes, instead of being cut in half,
may be baked whole, but they will take rather longer time to cook.
Time. — 20 to 30 minutes. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable
in August, September and October, but may be obtained all the
year round.
The Tomato, or Love Apple. — This vegetable is a native of Mexico and South America, but is
also found in the East Indies, Where it is supposed to have been introduced by the Spaniards. In
this country it is much more cultivated than it formerly was, and the more the community becomes
acquainted with the many agreeable forms in which the fruit can be prepared, the more widely will
its cultivation be extended. For ketchup, soups, and sauces, it is equally applicable, and the unripe
fruit makes one of the best pickles. In Italy and Provence tomatoes are cut in halves, and dried in
the sun ; they are then very slightly sprinkled with pepper and salt, and packed securely for winter
use in soups and stews.
1612. — TOMATOES, DEVILLED. (Fr. — Tomates a la
Diable.)
Ingredients.— 5 or 6 firm tomatoes, 2 ozs. of butter, the yolks of 2
hard-boiled eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, % a teaspoonful of made
mustard, 1 saltspoonful of salt, 1 saltspoonful of sugar, a good pinch
of cayenne, 2 raw eggs, butter for frying.
Method. — Slice the tomatoes, place them in a saute-pan containing
a little hot butter, and let them cook very slowly for a few minutes.
Mix the hard-boiled yolks and 2 ozs. of butter together, stir in the
vinegar, add the mustard, salt, sugar and cayenne, and turn the whole
into a small stewpan. When thoroughly hot, beat and add the eggs,
and stir until the mixture thickens. Place the tomatoes on a hot dish,
pour the sauce over, and serve.
RECIPES FOR COOKING VEGETABLES 869
Time. — About } an hour. Average Cost, is. 3d. to is. 6d. Sufficient
for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.
1613. — TOMATOES, SCALLOPED. (Fr. — Tomates en
Coquille.)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of tomato pulp, 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of bread-
crumbs, Jr an oz. of butter, \ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped onion,
salt and pepper, sugar, nutmeg, browned breadcrumbs, butter.
Method. — Obtain the pulp by passing tomatoes through a fine sieve,
or use preserved pulp. Heat the butter in a stewpan, fry the onion until
lightly-browned, and add half the tomato pulp and white breadcrumbs
gradually until the mixture has the consistency of very thick cream.
Add a pinch each of sugar and nutmeg, season to taste with salt and
pepper, and pour the mixture into well-buttered scallop shells. Cover
lightly with browned breadcrumbs, add 2 or 3 small pieces of butter,
bake in a moderately-hot oven from 10 to 15 minutes, then serve.
Time. — To bake the scallops, from 10 to 15 minutes. Average Cost,
6d. to yd., when preserved pulp is used. Sufficient for 6 or 8 shells.
Seasonable at any time.
1614. — TOMATO SALAD. (Fr. — Salade de Tomates.)
Scald, drain and peel the tomatoes, and, when quite cold, slice them
rather thinly. Arrange them neatly on a dish, sprinkle them lightly
with salt and pepper, and moisten slightly with salad-oil and vinegar.
Or, after preparing the tomatoes, as directed above, cut them across
in halves, season with salt, pepper, and a little celery salt, adding a few
drops of tarragon vinegar. Put them aside for \ an hour, then serve.
1615. — TOMATOES AND SPINACH. (Fr. — Tomates
aux Epinards.)
Ingredients. — Tomatoes, spinach puree, croutes of fried bread, salt
and pepper.
Method. —Remove some of the pulp and juice from the tomatoes,
fill the cavities with spinach puree highly seasoned with salt and
pepper, and bake in a moderately-hot oven until the tomatoes are soft.
Serve on the croutes.
Time. -To bake the tomatoes, about 10 minutes. Average Cost,
2d. to 2-fd. each. Seasonable at any time.
1 61 6. — TOMATOES, STEWED. (Fr.— Tomates au
Jus.)
Ingredients. — 8 tomatoes, about \ a pint of good gravy, thickening of
butter and flour, cayenne and salt to taste,
870
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Take out the stalks of the tomatoes, put them into a wide
stewpan, pour over them the above proportion of good brown gravy,
and stew gently until they are tender, occasionai ly carefully turning
them, that they may be equally done. Thicken the gravy with a
little butter and flour worked together on a plate, let it boil for 10 minutes
after the thickening is added, then serve.
Time. — From 20 to 25 minutes. Average Cost, from 4d. per lb.
Sufficient for 4 persons. Seasonable, all the year.
Analysis of the Tomato. — The fruit of the love-apple is the only part used as an esculent, and it
has been found to contain a particular acid, a volatile oil, a brown very fragrant extract of resinous
matter, a vegeto-mineral matter, mucho-saccharine, some salts and, in all probability, an alkaloid.
The whole plant has a disagreeable odour, and its juice, subjected to the action of the fire, emits a
vapour so powerful as to cause vertigo.
1617. — TOMATOES, STUFFED. (Fr. — Tomates Farcies
au Gratin.)
Ingredients. — 6 medium-sized tomatoes, 6 croutons of fried or toasted
bread, 1 heaped tablespoonful of finely-chopped lean cooked ham,
\ a tablespoonful of breadcrumbs, 1 small teaspoonful of grated cheese
preferably Parmesan, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped mushrooms,
J- a teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 1 very small onion finely-
chopped, £ an oz. of butter, 1 tablespoonful of brown sauce (about),
browned breadcrumbs, salt and pepper.
Method. — Remove the stalks of the tomatoes, and scoop out a little
of the pulp. Mix together all the above ingredients, except the brown
sauce and browned breadcrumbs, in a small stewpan over the fire, adding
gradually sufficient brown sauce to slightly moisten the whole. Season
to taste, fill the tomatoes with the preparation, sprinkle on the top
of each a few browned breadcrumbs, and bake them in a moderate oven
for about 15 minutes. Serve on the croutes, which should be round,
and slightly larger than the tomatoes.
Time. — Altogether, about \ an hour. Average Cost, is. 3d. to is. 6d.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
1618. — TOMATOES, STUFFED, WITH MUSHROOMS.
( Fr . — Tomates Farcies aux Champignons.)
Ingredients. — 6 medium-sized tomatoes, 2 tablespoonfuls of finely-
chopped mushrooms, 1 tablespoonful of breadcrumbs, £ of a teaspoonful
of finely-chopped parsley, 1 very small onion finely-chopped, 6 croutons
of fried or toasted bread, browned breadcrumbs, 1 oz. of butter, salt and
pepper.
Method. — Remove the stalks of the tomatoes, and scoop out a little
of the pulp. Melt the butter. in a small stewpan, add to it all the in-
gredients except the browned breadcrumbs, and stir over the fire until
thoroughly mixed. Fill the tomatoes with the preparation, sprinkle
RECIPES FOR COOKING VEGETABLES 871
on a few browned breadcrumbs, baLe in a moderate oven for 10 or 15
minutes, and serve on the croutons.
Time. — Altogether, 30 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. to is. qd.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
1619. — TRUFFLES. (Fr. — Truffes au Naturel.)
Ingredients. — Truffles, buttered paper.
Method. — Select some fine truffles, and wash and brush them in
several waters, until not a particle of sand or grit remains. Wrap each
truffle in buttered paper, and bake in a hot oven for quite 1 hour;
take off the paper, wipe the truffles, and serve.
Time. — To bake the truffles, 1 hour. Average Cost, 6s. to 10s. per lb.
Seasonable from November to March.
The Common Truffle (Fr. truffe.) — This is the Tuber cibarium of science, and belongs to that
numerous class of esculent fungi distinguished from other vegetables, not only by the singularity of
their forms, but by their chemical composition. Upon analysis, they are found not only to contain
the usual components of the vegetable kingdom, such as carbon, oxygen, and hydrogen, but likewise
a large proportion of nitrogen, from which they approach more nearly to the nature of animal flesh.
It was leng ago observed by Dr. Darwin that all the mushrooms cooked at our tables, as well as those
used for ketchup, possessed an animal flavour ; and soup enriched by mushrooms only has sometimes
been supposed to contain meat. It is certain that the truffle must possess, equally with other plants,
organs of reproduction, yet, notwithstanding all the efforts of art and science, it has been impossible
to subject it to a regular culture. Truffles grow at a considerable depth under the earth, never ap-
pearing on the surface. They are found in many parts of France : those of Perigord and Magny are
the most esteemed for their flavour. There are three varieties of the species, the black, the red and
the white ; the latter are of little value. The red are very rare, and their use is restricted. The black
has the highest repute, and its consumption is enormous. When the peasantry go to gather truffles,
they take a pig with them to scent out the spot where they grow. When that is found, the pig turns
up the surface with his snout, and the men then dig until they find the truffles. Good truffles are
easily distinguished by their agreeable perfume ; they should be light in proportion to their size,
and elastic when pressed by the finger. To have them in perfection, they should be quite fresh,
as their aroma is considerably diminished by any conserving process. Truffles are stimulating and
heating. Weak stomachs digest them with difficulty. Some of the culinary uses to which they are
subjected render them more digestible, but they should always be eaten sparingly. Their chief
use is in seasoning and garnitures. In short, a professor has said : “ Meats with truffles are the most
distinguished dishes that opulence can offer to the epicure.” The truffle grows in clusters, some
inches below the surface of the soil, and is of an irregular globular form. Those which grow wild in
England are about the size of a hen’s egg, and have no roots. As there is nothing to distinguish the
places where they are, dogs have been trained to discriminate their scent, by which they are dis-
covered. Hogs are very fond of them, and frequently lead to their being found, from their rutting
up the ground in ~earch of them.
1620. — TRUFFLES SERVED ON A SERVIETTE.
( Fr . — Truffes a la Serviette.)
Ingredients. — Large truffles, equal quantities of white wine and veal
or chicken stock, slices of ham or bacon, a bouquet-garni (parsley,
thyme, bay-leaf).
Method. — Fresh truffles must be well washed and scrubbed to free
them from dirt, and afterwards very carefully peeled. Line a stew-
pan with slices of ham or bacon, put in the truffles and herbs,
barely cover them with equal parts of wine and stock, lay a
buttered paper on top, and put on a close-fitting lid. Stew gently
from 1 to 1^- hours, according to size, and add more wine and stock
872
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
as that in the stevvpan becomes reduced. When ready, drain and dry
thoroughly, and serve as hot as possible in a folded serviette.
Time. — From 1 to i-£ hours. Average Cost, 6s. to 10s. per lb.
Allow 1 to each person. Seasonable from November to March.
Note. — Preserved truffles may be enclosed separately in buttered paper,
heated in the oven, and after being well dried on a cloth, served in a folded
serviette.
1621. — TRUFFLES, ITALIAN METHOD OF DRESSING.
(TV. — Truffes a l’ltalienne.)
Ingredients. — ’10 truffles, \ of a pint of salad-oil, pepper and salt to
taste, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, a very little finely minced
garlic or shallot, 2 blades of pounded mace, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-
juice.
Method. — After cleansing and brushing the truffles, cut them into
thin slices, and put them into a baking-dish, with a seasoning of oil,
pepper, salt, parsley, garlic, and mace in the above proportion. Bake
them for nearly 1 hour, and just before serving add the lemon-juice.
Send the truffles to table very hot.
Time. — Nearly 1 hour. Average Cost, 6s. to 10s. per lb. Sufficient
for 5 persons. Seasonable, fresh truffles from November to March.
Where Truffles are Found. — In this country, the common truffle is found on the downs of Hamp-
shire, Wiltshire and Kent ; and they abound in dry light soils, and more especially in oak and chestnut
forests. In France they are plentiful, and many are imported from the south of that country and
Italy, where they are much larger and in greater perfection ; they lose, however, much of their flavour
by drying. In England the artificial propagation of truffles has been tried, but without success.
1622. — TRUFFLES WITH ITALIAN SAUCE.
(Fr. — Truffes a l’ltalienne.)
Ingredients. — 10 fresh truffles, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, 1
minced shallot, salt and pepper to taste, 2 ozs. of butter, 2 table-
spoonfuls of good brown gravy, the juice of \ a lemon, cayenne to
taste.
Method. — Wash the truffles, cut them into slices about the size of a
penny piece, then put them in a saute-pan, with the parsley,
shallot, salt, pepper, and 1 oz. of butter. Stir them over the fire, that
they may all be equally done (about 10 minutes will suffice), then add
2 tablespoonfuls of good gravy, the juice of \ a lemon, and a little
cayenne. Stir over the fire until the whole is on the point of boiling,
then serve.
Time. — Altogether, 20 minutes. Average Cost, 6s. to 10s. per lb.
Sufficient for 5 persons. Seasonable from November to March.
Uses of the Truffles. — Like the morel, truffles are seldom eaten alone, but are much used in gravies,
soups, and ragouts. They are likewise dried for the winter months, and, when reduced to powder,
form a useful culinary ingredient ; they, however, have many virtues attributed to them which they
do not possess. Their wholesomeness is perhaps questionable, and they should be eaten in modera-
tion.
RECIPES FOR COOKING VEGETABLES 873
1623. — TRUFFLES IN CRUST. (Fr.— Truffes en
Croutes, or en Cassolettes.)
Ingredients. — Truffles, butter, brown sauce, 1 glass of Marsala, or
Madeira wine, stale bread.
Method. — Prepare as many rounds of bread, 1 inch thick, as will be
required; they should be free from crust. Fry them in clarified fat
until lightly-browned, drain, and with a sharp knife cut out a hollow
space in the centre of each. Slice some truffles, allowing 1 small one for
each cassolette. Heat them in a little butter, and add a glass of Marsala
or Madeira wine. To this add enough brown sauce to bind the truffles.
When thoroughly hot fill the cassolettes with them, dish up, and serve
hot.
Time. — From 35 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, 3s. 6d. for a dish of
8 cassolettes. Sufficient for 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
1624. — TURNIPS, BOILED. ( Fr . — Navets au Naturel.)
Ingredients. — Turnips; to each \ gallon of water allow 1 heaped table-
spoonful of salt.
Method. — Pare the turnips, and, should they be very large, divide
them into quarters; but if they are small, let them be cooked
whole. Put them into a saucepan of boiling water, salted in the above
proportion, and let them boil gently until tender. Try them with a
fork, and, when done, take them up in a colander, let them thoroughly
drain, and serve. Boiled turnips are usually sent to table with boiled
mutton, but are infinitely nicer when mashed than served whole;
unless nice and young, they are scarcely worth the trouble of dressing
plainly as above.
Time. — Old turnips, -J to hours; young ones, about 18 to 20 minutes.
Average Cost, one dish, 3d. Seasonable at any time.
The TuRNir (Fr. navel). — This vegetable is the Brassica kapa of science, and grows wild in England.
The turnip is said to have been originally introduced from Hanover, and forms an excellent culinary
vegetable, much used all over Europe, where it is either eaten alone or mashed and cooked in soups
and stews They do not thrive in a hot climate, for in India turnips, and many more of our garden
vegetables, lose their flavour and become comparatively tasteless. The swede is the largest variety,
but it is considered too coarse for the table, although in Scotland and on the Continent quite young
swedes are often cooked as delicacies.
1625. — TURNIPS AU GRATIN. (Fr.— Navets au
Gratin.)
Ingredients. — 6 or 8 medium-sized young turnips, 3 ozs. of butter,
Bechamel sauce ( see Sauces, No. 178), stock, breadcrumbs, salt and
pepper.
Method. — Peel thinly 6 to 8 medium-sized young turnips, cut them
into slices, wash and drain them. Melt 2 ozs. of butter in a stewpan,
when hot put in the turnips, and stir over a brisk fire, season with
pepper and salt, moisten with a little stock, cook till tender, then drain
874
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
thoroughly. Arrange the slices or the puree in a well-buttered gratin
or pie-dish, sauce over with a well-reduced Bechamel sauce, sprinkle
the surface with fine breadcrumbs, and add a few tiny bits of butter.
Bake in a sharp oven for about io minutes, to brown the top.
Time. — About 30 minutes. Average Cost, 9d. to is. Sufficient for 5 or
6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
The French Navet. — This is a variety of the turnip, but, instead of being globular, has more the
shape of the carrot. Its flavour being excellent, it is much esteemed on the Continent for soups
and made-dishes. Two or three of them will impart as much flavour as a dozen of the common turnips
will. Accordingly, when stewed in gravy, thev are greatly relished. The flavour is found in the rind
which is not cut off, but scraped. This variety was once grown in England, but now it is rarely found
in our gardens, though highly deserving of a place there. It is of a yellowish- white colour, and is
sometimes imported in the London market.
1626.— TURNIPS, GLAZED.
See Carrots, Glazed, Recipe No. 1476.
1627. — TURNIPS, MASHED. (Fr.— Puree de Navets.)
Ingredients. — 10 or 12 large turnips; to each \ gallon of water allow
1 heaped tablespoonful of salt, 2 ozs. of butter, cayenne or white
pepper to taste.
Method. — Pare the turnips, put them into boiling water, salted
in the above proportion, boil them until tender, then drain them in a
colander, and squeeze them as dry as possible by pressing them with
the back of a large plate. When quite free from water, rub the turnips
with a wooden spoon through a sieve, put them into a saucepan, add
the butter, white pepper, or cayenne, and, if necessary, a little salt.
Keep stirring them over the fire until the butter is well incorporated,
and the turnips are thoroughly hot, then dish and serve. A little
cream or milk added after the turnips are pressed through the sieve
is an improvement to both the colour and flavour of this vegetable.
Time. — From 45 to 60 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. Sufficient for 5 or
6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Cabbage, Turnip-Tops, and Greens. — All the cabbage tribe, which comprises coleworts, brocoli,
cauliflower, sprouts and turnip-tops, in order to be delicate, should be dressed young, when they
have a rapid growth ; but if they have stood the summer, to render them tender, they should be
allowed to have a touch of frost. The cabbage contains much vegetable albumen, and several parts
of sulphur and nitrate of potash. Cabbage is less digestible than some other vegetables, and is more
suited for robust and active persons than the sedentary or delicate. Cabbage may be prepared in a
variety of ways : it serves as a garniture to several recherche dishes, partridge and cabbage for ex-
ample Bacon and cabbage is a very favourite dish, but requires a strong digestion.
1628. — TURNIP-GREENS, BOILED.
Ingredients. — To each \ gallon of water allow 1 heaped tablespoonful
of salt, turnip-greens.
Method. — Wash the greens well in 2 or 3 waters, pick off all the
decayed and dead leaves, tie them in small bunches, and put them into
plenty of boiling water, salted in the above proportion. Keep them
RECIPES FOR COOKING VEGETABLES
«75
boiling quickly with the saucepan uncovered, and, when tender, pour
them into a colander; let them drain, arrange them in a vegetable-dish,
* remove the string that the greens were tied with, and serve.
Time. — 15 to 20 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. for 1 dish. Seasonable
in March, April and May.
1629. — VEGETABLES, GARNISH OF, FOR SOUPS,
AND ENTREES.
Vegetables for garnishing simple soups and plain entrees may be
cut into dice or matches, but for more elaborate dishes they should
either be turned into small balls with a round scoop ( see Chapter on
Utensils), or cut into thin slices and afterwards stamped out by
means of a fancy cutter. Carrot and turnip should either be boiled
separately, or the former should be slightly cooked before adding the
turnip, which requires longer cooking.
1630. — VEGETABLE MARROWS, BOILED.
( Fr . — Courge bouillie, Sauce Blanche.)
Ingredients. — 2 medium-sized vegetable marrows, toast, j- of a pint
of white sauce ( see Sauces, No. 223).
Method. — Peel the marrows, quarter them, and remove the seeds.
Boil them in salt and water from 15 to 20 minutes, or until tender.
Drain well, dish on the toast, pour over the white sauce, and serve.
Time. — 15 to 20 minutes. Average Cost, from 2d. each. Sufficient
for s or 6 persons. Seasonable in July, August and September.
Thf. Vegetable Marrow. — This vegetable is now extensively used, and belongs to the Cucur-
bitaccac. It is the C. ovi jersacada of science, and, like the melon, gourd, cucumber and squash,
is widely diffused in the tropical or warmer regions of the globe. Of the nature of this family we have
already spoken when treating of the cucumber.
1631. — VEGETABLE MARROW, FRIED.
(. Fr . — Courge Frite.)
Ingredients. — 1 or 2 medium-sized vegetable marrows, egg and bread-
crumbs, frying-fat, salt and pepper.
Method. — Peel and boil the marrows in salt and water until tender,
then drain well, cut them into quarters, and remove the seeds. Coat
each piece with egg and breadcrumbs, and fry in hot fat until nicely
browned. Drain, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and serve.
Time. — From 40 to 50 minutes, altogether. Average Cost, from 2d.
each. Sufficient for 3 or 5 persons. Seasonable from July to September.
1632. — VEGETABLE MARROW FRITTERS.
See Vegetable Marrow, Fried, Recipe No. 1631. If preferred, the mar-
row may be coated with frying-batter instead of egg and breadcrumbs.
8y6 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1633. — VEGETABLE MARROWS, MASHED.
(Fr. — Puree de Courge.)
Ingredients. — 2 medium-sized marrows, 1 oz. of butter, 1 tablespoonful
of cream, flour, salt and pepper.
Method. — Boil the marrows in salt and water until tender, and rub
them through a fine sieve. Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the
puree, cream, and a little pepper, and stir over the fire for 5 or 6 minutes,
dredging in a little flour until the puree acquires the desired con-
sistence.
Time. — About 30 minutes. Average Cost, from 2d. each. Sufficient
for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable in July, August and September.
1634. — VEGETABLE MARROW, STUFFED.
(Fr. — Courge Farcie.)
Ingredients. — 1 medium-sized marrow, 3 tablespoonfuls of finely-
chopped raw or cooked meat, 1 tablespoonful of breadcrumbs, x tea-
spoonful of finely-chopped onion, \ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped
parsley, J- of a teaspoonful of powdered mixed herbs, 1 egg, \ a pint of
brown sauce ( see Sauces, No. 234), salt and pepper.
Method. — Peel the marrow, cut it in two lengthwise, and remove
the seeds. Boil in salt and water for about 10 minutes, until the marrow
is half cooked, then drain well. Mix together all the above ingredients
except the brown sauce, and fill the cavities of the marrow with the
preparation. Put the 2 halves together in their original form, fasten
securely with string, baste well with hot fat, dredge lightly with flour,
and bake in a moderate oven until well browned. Or brush it over
with egg, and coat with browned breadcrumbs before baking. Serve
the brown sauce separately.
Time. — From 35 to 45 minutes. Average Cost, iod. to is. Sufficient
for 2 or 3 persons. Seasonable in July, August and September.
1635. -VEGETABLES, COLD, TO REHEAT.
Vegetables may be reheated in a basin placed in a steamer over a
saucepan of boiling water, or they may be fried in a little hot butter
or fat. See also Cold Potatoes to Warm, Recipe No. 1566.
1636. — VEGETABLES, CURRY OF. (Fr. — Legumes en
Kari.)
Ingredients. — 1 small cauliflower, -} a pint of shelled peas, 2 carrots,
1 turnip, 2 or 3 raw potatoes, 1 onion, a few strips of celery, i£ ozs. of
butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, 1 tablespoonful of curry-powder,
RECIPES FOR COOKING VEGETABLES 877
1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, 1 or 2 tomatoes, 1 pint of stock, 6 ozs.
of boiled rice, salt and pepper.
Method. — Divide the cauliflower into small sprays, and cut the carrot,
turnip, potatoes, onion, and celery into dice. In boiling the vege-
tables it is as well to use 2 or 3 small stewpans, and divide them accord-
ing to the time respectively required. Onion and celery would cook
together, also the carrot and turnip, provided the former were given
a few extra minutes. They must be drained from the water when about
f cooked, otherwise they are apt to break and spoil the appearance
of the curry. Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the flour and curry-
powder, fry slowly for not less than 10 minutes, then put in the sliced
tomatoes and stock, and stir until boiling. Simmer gently for 15
minutes, then rub through a tammy or fine hair sieve, and replace in
the stewpan. Season to taste, add the lemon-juice and cooked vegetables,
and when thoroughly hot serve in a border of nicely-cooked rice.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, is. 6d. to 2s. Sufficient for 4 or 5
persons. Seasonable at any time.
1637. — VEGETABLE RAGOUT. (Fr.— Ragout de
Legumes.)
Ingredients. — Vegetables as in the preceding recipe, 1 pint of good
brown sauce ( see Sauces, No. 223).
Method. — Prepare and cook the vegetables according to directions
given for Curry of Vegetables. When cooked and well drained,
add them to the brown sauce, in which the sliced tomatoes should
already have been simmered for about 10 minutes; allow them to re-
main in the sauce until thoroughly hot, then serve garnished with
croutons of fried bread, or small shapes of mashed potato, see Potatoes,
Mashed and Baked (Recipe No. 1576).
Time. — From 30 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, is. Seasonable at
any time.
1638. — VEGETABLES, TINNED.
See Peas, Tinned, to Dress, Recipe No. 1559. Follow the directions
given, but omit the mint.
1639. — VEGETABLES, TO BLANCH.
See General Instructions for Cooking Vegetables, page 812.
1640. — VEGETABLES, TO RENDER CRISP.
Lettuce, parsley and other stale green vegetables may be made less
limp by pouring over them a considerable quantity of boiling water.
After 2 or 3 minutes’ immersion they should be well washed in cold
water, and served immediately.
878
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1641. — WHEAT OR MAIZE, ITALIAN, TO BOIL.
See Maize or Indian Corn, Recipe No. 1527.
1642. — WHEAT, INDIAN.
See Maize or Indian Com, Recipe No. 1527.
1643. — YAMS, BAKED.
Ingredients. — Yams, butter, salt and pepper.
Method. — Wash and dry the yams, bake them in a moderately hot
oven until soft, and serve on a folded napkin. Butter, salt and pepper
are the usual accompaniments.
1644.— YAMS, BOILED.
Ingredients. — Yams, salt.
Method. — Wash and peel the yams, and let them remain in cold
water for \ an hour. Cover them with hot water, add a little salt,
boil gently until tender, then drain and serve.
Yams may also be steamed, stewed, fried, mashed, curried, baked
“ au gratin ” ( see Cauliflower Baked with Cheese, Recipe No. 1477),
made into rissoles ( see Potato Balls), soup, puree, or salad.
PASTRY MAKING, TARTS,
TARTLETS, ICING, ETC,
CHAPTER XXXI.
Pastry. — Pastry is one of the most important branches of culinary
science, and possibly one of the oldest, for at a very early period the
Orientals understood the art of utilizing flour for this purpose. In its
primitive form pastry was simply a mixture of flour, oil and honey ;
and it appears to have been confined to these substances for centuries,
even among the southern nations of the European continent. At the
commencement of the middle ages a change began to take place ; butter
frequently replaced the oil, salt was used as a flavouring ingredient,
and the qualities of richness and lightness which are imparted by eggs
had been discovered. The next step was to use paste as an enclosure
for meat, and when this advance was made, its use in combination with
fruit, cream, etc., followed as a matter of course. The art advanced
step by step until the middle of the nineteenth century, the dinner
tables of the intervening period having afforded considerable scope for
the display of constructive and decorative skill. Since the dinner a la
Russe banished almost everything of an edible nature from the table,
any talent in this direction has been chiefly expended on small pastries,
which, if less imposing in structure than those of past ages, yet afford
a wide field for ingenuity, taste and manipulative skill.
The recipes on the following pages comprise what may be termed
standard pastes, and also their many variations. Numerous illustra-
tions are given of the methods in which the respective preparations
may be utilized for pies, tarts, tartlets, etc., with directions for compound-
ing the mixtures employed for idling such pastry.
Pastry Making. — The quality especially to be desired in pastry is light-
ness, and this depends almost entirely upon the amount of cold air in
the pastry when expansion takes place in the oven. The best pastry
is therefore that which contains the greatest quantity of the coldest
air prior to baking. The repeated foldings and rollings to which puff
paste is subjected have this increase of air in view ; while in short
crust the expansion is aided by adding baking-powder, or other acid,
and alkaline substances, which, when moistened, combine to form
a constituent identical in its composition and effect with that of the
879
88o
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
atmospheric air to which puff paste entirely owes its lightness. The
difference between puff, or flaky and short crust is that in the former
there are thin layers of air and pastry alternating, and in the latter the
air fills small cavities all over the paste.
Puff Paste usually consists of flour and butter in equal proportions,
but in short crust the proportions of fat and flour vary, and may be
one-fourth for an economical paste, or three-fourths for a rich short
crust. For ordinary purposes \ a lb. of butter or fat to each lb. of flour,
will, with the addition of a good teaspoonful of baking-powder, make a
sufficiently rich crust. Fine starchy flour makes the lightest pastry,
the larger proportion of gluten in household flour — although exceed-
ingly valuable from a dietetic point of view — tends to make pastry,
tough. Flour should always be stored in a cool, perfectly dry place.
By sieving it before use, air is introduced, and if there are any lumps
these may be rubbed out, with the result that the pastry will be
lighter. When baking-powder is used it should be sieved with the
flour, as this ensures its even distribution.
The amount of liquid required to moisten a given quantity of flour
varies within narrow limits, but it may'- be approximately stated as
being \ to that of the flour. As a rule, i lb. of flour will need about
a pint of water, but allowance must be made for the addition of eggs,
or when the fat has been reduced to a semi-liquid condition by undue
friction, or prolonged contact with hot hands. The consistency of the
butter determines the amount of water to be added to puff paste ; when
the butter is soft the paste must be equally so, otherwise it is impossible
to keep the layers separate, and thus the paste is deprived of some of
its flakiness. Rich short crust is lighter and more crumbly when made
very stiff, but unless plain short crust is sufficiently moistened it is hard
and tough. Lemon-juice, like other acids, tends to make pastry lighter.
Butter and Fat. — The butter used for making pastry should be good
and sweet, for nothing imparts its own unpleasant flavour to every-
thing it comes in contact with more decidedly than inferior butter.
Salt butter is not objectionable, if before being used it is well washed,
and afterwards squeezed in a floured cloth to free it from moisture.
Rancid butter may have some of its disagreeable flavour removed by
kneading it first in new milk and afterwards in water. For ordinary
pastry clarified fat may be recommended in preference to lard or drip-
ping, for it is entirely free from the fatty taste which characterizes the
purest home-made lard, while that bought ready prepared is frequently
adulterated, and, moreover, has occasionally a strong, unpleasant taste.
The objectionable characteristic flavour of dripping may be in some
measure removed by creaming it, that is beating it with a knife on a
plate, and raising it well with every movement of the hand, so as to
subject every part to the purifying influence of the atmosphere.
Manipulation. — The fat should be lightly, but very thoroughly, rubbed
in with the tips of the fingers, never with the palms of the hands. The
RECIPES FOR PASTRY
881
water should be added gradually, but quickly, to prevent hard lumps
being formed, and to keep the consistence of the whole mass uniform*.
A knife should always be used for mixing, it being so much cooler than
the hand. Some little practice is necessary to acquire the light, firm,
even pressure and dexterous movements upon which success so largely
depends. Paste should never be rolled backwards and forwards, but
in short forward rolls, lifting the rolling-pin between the rolls. Puff
paste should never be rolled off the edges, as this may force out some
of the air ; it is better to thin the edges by a little pressure, or an inward
roll.
Puff Paste is allowed to stand between the turns in order that the
butter may harden, and thus keep the layers of paste and butter separate.
Paste to which baking-powder has been added should be put into the
oven as speedily as possible, otherwise some of the effect of the baking-
powder is wasted, its action beginning immediately the paste is mois-
tened.
Baking. — All kinds of pastry should be baked in a moderately hot
oven, for a high temperature is necessary to expand the air or gas, and
thus make the pastry light, and also to burst the grains of the flour,
thereby enabling these to absorb the fat immediately it melts. Unless
the heat is sufficiently great to act upon the flour in this manner, the
melted fat runs out and leaves the paste less rich, and also, probably,
both heavy and tough. An oven with a good bottom heat is desirable
for baking tarts and tartlets; when heated from above it is advisable
to bake, or partially bake, the tarts before filling them.
Icing. Very pretty results can be obtained by the use of Icing
tubes or cones, which may be purchased at any ironmonger’s. Make
an ordinary conical sugar bag of paper, place an Icing tube at the
bottom, and fill the bag with Icing sugar. Then tear away the paper
covering the point of the tube and squeeze the sugar through.
Paste, Crust, etc.
1645.— BATTER FOR FRYING.
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of flour, \ an oz. of butter (melted), 1 tablespoon-
ful of cream, 1 yolk of egg, 2 whites of eggs, a good pinch of salt, of a
pint of warm water (about).
Method. — Sieve the flour into a basin, add the salt, yolk of egg,
butter and cream, and stir until smooth, adding the water gradually.
Beat well, put aside for at least \ an hour, then add the whites of eggs,
previously stiffly-whipped, and use as required.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 5d. to 6d.
882
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1646. — BATTER FOR PANCAKES.
See Yorkshire Pudding, Recipe No. 1930.
1647. — BATTER FOR FRYING. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 4 level tablespoonfuls of flour, 1 tablespoonful of salad
oil, or oiled butter, 2 stiffly -whisked whites of eggs, a good pinch of
salt, \ of a pint of warm water (about).
Method. — Sieve the flour into a basin, add the salt and salad oil, stir
gently, adding the water gradually until the batter is sufficiently
liquid to offer little resistance to the spoon, then beat well for 10 minutes.
Put aside for about \ an hour, add warm water until the batter has
the consistency of good single cream, then stir in the stiffly-whisked
whites of eggs, and use as required.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 3M. to qd.
1648. — BRIOCHE PASTE. (Fr.— Pate de Brioche.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of flour, 4 ozs. of butter, •§■ an oz. of yeast, 2 large
or 3 small eggs, £ of a gill of milk, 1 teaspoonful of castor sugar, salt.
Method. — Mix the yeast with a little tepid water, stir in sufficient
flour to form a stiff batter, and let it stand for 1 hour in a warm place.
Put the remainder of the flour into a basin, add a good pinch of salt,
and the beaten egg. Warm the milk, melt the butter, add gradually
to the yeast, etc., then mix together the contents of the 2 basins, and
knead well for at least 15 minutes. Cover, let it remain in a moder-
ately cool place for 2 or 3 hours, then shape or mould as desired, and
bake in a brisk oven.
Time. — From 2 to 3 hours. Average Cost, qd. or iod.
1649. — BUTTER CRUST. (For Boiled Puddings.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of flour. 6 ozs. of butter, \ a pint of water.
Method. — With a knife mix the flour to a smooth paste, adding the
water gradually. Roll out thinly, place the butter over it in small
pieces, dredge lightly with flour, and fold the paste over. Roll out
again, and use as required.
Time. — About 15 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. or 7 d. Sufficient for
\\ lbs. of paste.
1650. — CHOUX PASTE. (Fr.— Pate a Choux.)
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of fine flour, 4 ozs. of butter, 2 ozs. of sugar, 2
large or 3 small eggs,, \ pint of water, salt, vanilla-essence or other
flavouring.
Method. — Put the water, butter, sugar, and a good pinch of salt into
a stewpan, and when boiling add the flour, previously well dried and
RECIPES FOR PASTRY
883
sieved, and stir and cook gently for at least 10 minutes. Let it cool a
little, then beat in the eggs one at a time, add a few drops of the flavour-^
ing ingredient, and use as required.
Time. — About 3 an hour. Average Cost, 8d.
1651. - DRIPPING CRUST. (For Plain Pies and
Puddings.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of flour, 6 ozs. of clarified dripping, \ a pint of
water.
Method. — With a knife mix the flour to a smooth paste, adding the
water gradually. Roll the paste out thinly, place of the dripping
over it in small pieces, and fold over. Repeat this process twice,
using l- of fat each time, and use as required.
Time. — 20 minutes. Average Cost, qd. to 5d. Sufficient for 2 lbs.
1652. — FLAKY PASTE. (For Pies, Tarts and
Tartlets.)
Ingredients. — 12 ozs. of flour, 9 ozs. of butter (or butter and lard mixed,
| of a pint of water (about).
Method. — Sieve the flour into a basin, and rub in lightly J- of the
butter. Add the water and mix into a smooth paste, more or less moist,
according to the consistency of the butter, with which it must agree in
this respect ; roll it out into a long, narrow strip. Divide the re-
mainder of the butter into 3 equal portions ; put one portion on the
paste in small pieces, dredge lightly with flour, fold it evenly in 3, turn
it round so as to have the folded edges to the right and left when rolling,
press the edges lightly with the rolling-pin, to prevent the air escaping,
and roll out as before. Repeat this process with the other portions
of butter. The pastry may be used at once, but it will be lighter if
allowed to stand for 1 hour in a cool place before being used. In mak-
ing-up, handle as lightly, and roll as evenly, as possible. Bake in a
hot oven, and avoid opening the oven door until the pastry has risen
and become partially baked.
Time. — \ an hour to bake. Average Cost, iod.
1653. — FLEAD CRUST.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of flour, \ a lb. of flead (the leaf or pork from which
lard is made), 1 teaspoonful of baking-powder, \ of a teaspoonful of
salt, \ a pint of cold water.
Method. — Remove any skin there may be, a.nd slice the flead into thin
flakes, and mix it with the flour on the paste board. Roll it
lightly with the rolling-pin. Place in a basin, add the baking-powder,
salt, and sufficient cold water to form a fairly stiff paste. Roll out,
and use for meat-pies, etc.
Time. — 10 minutes. Average Cost, sd. Sufficient for 1 large pie.
886
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Fine flour is not to be recommended tor this purpose, for it is deficient
in gluten, a sticky tenacious substance which greatly increases the
adhesive properties of the paste, and so makes it easier to mould.
Time. — hours. Average Cost, 5d. Suflicient for i large pie.
1661. — PASTE, TRANSPARENT.
Ingredients. — i lb. of flour (dry and sifted), f of a lb. of butter, i egg.
Method. — Wash the butter in 2 or 3 waters, and afterwards remove
as much moisture as possible by means of a dry cloth. Melt the
butter over a gentle fire, let it remain until nearly cold, then stir in the
flour and egg. Knead lightly until smooth, roll out very thinly, and
use for tartlets, etc.
Time. — About \ an hour. Average Cost, is. Sufficient for 2 lbs.
1662. — PASTE, TO KEEP.
Paste not intended for immediate use should be enfolded in grease-
proof or slightly buttered paper, and kept in a cool place.
1663. — POTATO PASTE.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of dry floury potato, 1 lb. of flour, 2 ozs. each of
lard and dripping, 1 egg, a little warm milk, 1 good teaspoonful of
baking powder, a good pinch of salt.
Method. — Bake enough potatoes (in their skins) to yield 1 lb. of
potato, which mash smoothly or pass through a sieve. Rub the lard
and dripping lightly into the flour, add the potato, baking powder and
salt, and stir in the egg and enough milk to form a smooth paste.
Roll out to about 1 inch in thickness, cut into rounds or squares, place
in a greased tin, and bake in a moderate oven, turning 2 or 3 times
during the process, that both sides may be equally browned. Split,
butter liberally, and serve at once.
Time. — To bake, about 25 minutes. Average Cost, 7d. Sufficient for
5 or 6 persons.
1664— POTATO PASTE, GERMAN. (To serve with
Game or Poultry.)
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of hot potatoes, 2 ozs. of butter, 2 eggs, grated
Parmesan cheese, egg and breadcrumbs, frying fat.
Method. — Pass the hot potato quickly through a sieve, or mash them
smoothly. Stir in the butter and eggs, spread smoothly on a dish,
making the layer about f- of an inch in thickness, and, when cold, cut
it into rounds or squares. Coat carefully with egg and breadcrumbs
mixed more or less liberally with cheese, according to taste, and fry in
hot fat until nicely browned. Serve as an accompaniment to game
or poultry.
Time. — To fry, about 5 minutes. Average Cost, iod. to is. Sufficient
for 6 or 7 persons.
RECIPES FOR PASTRY
887
1665. — PUFF PASTE. (Fr. — Feuilletage.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of flour, 1 lb. of butter, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-
juice, about } of a pint cold water.
Method. — Wash and squeeze the butter in cold water, dry well in a
floured cloth, shape into a square about the size of a slice of sandwich
bread, and keep in a cool place while the paste is being prepared. Sieve
the flour on to a marble slab, or board, make a well in the centre, put
in the lemon-juice, and add water gradually until a smooth paste is
formed. The condition of the butter determines the consistency ; when
soft, the paste must be equally so. Knead the paste until smooth, then
roll it out into a strip a little wider than the butter, and rather more
than twice its length. Place the butter on one half of the paste, fold
the other half over, enclosing the butter entirely, and press the edges
together with the rolling pin. Let it remain in a cool place for about
15 minutes, then roll out to about 3 times the original length, but keep-
ing the width the same, and fold exactly in three. Turn the paste round
so that the folded edges are on the right and left, roll and fold again,
and put aside for 15 minutes. Repeat this until the paste has been
rolled out 6 times. The rolling should be done as evenly as possible,
and the paste kept in a long narrow shape which, when folded, forms a
square. Each time the paste is rolled out it may be well sprinkled
with flour, but it must be evenly distributed with a paste-brush, and
all the loose flour carefully brushed off before beginning to roll. When
the paste has had its 6th roll it is ready for use ; it should be baked in
a hot oven, and until the paste has risen and become partially baked,
the oven door should not be opened, because a current of cold air may
cause the flakes to collapse on one side.
Time. — 1^ hours. Average Cost, is. to is. 2d. per lb.
1666. — ROUGH PUFF PASTE, OR HALF-PUFF PASTE.
(Fr.— Pate Demi-Feuilletage.)
Ingredients. — 8 ozs. of flour, 6 ozs. of butter (or equal quantities of
butter and lard), } a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, salt, about of a pint
of water.
Method. — Sieve the flour on to a pasteboard, divide the butter into
pieces about the size of a small walnut and mix them lightly with the
flour. Make a well in the centre, put in the lemon-juice, salt, and 1
tablespoonful of water, mix lightly, keeping the pieces of butter intact,
and add water gradually until a moderately stiff paste is formed. Roll
into a long strip, fold it equally in 3, turn it round so as to have the
folded edges to the right and left, and roll out as before. Repeat until
the paste has been rolled out 4 times, then use ; or, if convenient, let
it remain for 1 hour in a cool place before being used.
Time. — } an hour. Average Cost, 8d. if butter is used. Sufficient for 1
pie of average size.
888
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1667. — RICH SHORT CRUST.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of flour, J of a lb. of butter, 2 yolks of eggs, 1 level
tablespoonful of castor sugar, 1 teaspoonful of baking-powder.
Method. — Rub the butter lightly into the flour, add the baking-
powder, sugar, yolks of eggs, and a little water if necessary, but this
paste must be rather stiff, and when the butter is soft, or the paste is
being mixed in a warm place, only a few drops of water may be re-
quired. Roll out thinly and use at once. The crust for fruit tarts
should be lightly brushed over with cold water, and dredged with
castor sugar before being baked.
Time. — £ of an hour. Average Cost, is. 2d. Suilicient for 2 tarts of
medium size, or 24 patty-cases.
1668. — SHORT CRUST.
Ingredients. — 8 ozs. of flour, 2 ozs. of butter, 2 ozs. of lard, 1 yolk of
egg, 1 teaspoonful of baking-powder, a good pinch of salt, about of
a pint of water.
Method. — Rub the butter and lard lightly into the flour, add the
baking-powder, salt, yolk of egg, and as much water as is necessary
to form a stiff paste. Roll out to the required thickness and use at
once.
Time. — J of an hour. Average Cost, about 4^d. Sufficient for 1
medium-sized tart.
1669. — SHORT CRUST, PLAIN.
Ingredients. — \ lb. of flour, 3 ozs. of lard, clarified fat, or dripping,
1 teaspoonful baking-powder (heaped), £ of a teaspoonful of salt, 1 of a
pint of water.
Method. — Pass the flour, salt, and baking-powder through a sieve
into a large basin, then rub in the fat, add the water, and work into a
smooth paste with a knife. Roll out to desired shape and thickness,
and use at once. When required for fruit tarts, 1 tablespoonful of
sugar should be added to the above ingredients.
Time.— £ of an hour. Average Cost, 3d. Sufficient for 1 medium-
sized tart.
1670. — SUET CRUST, RICH.
Ingredients. — 8 ozs. of flour, 3 ozs. of breadcrumbs, 6 ozs. of suet, 1
heaped teaspoonful baking-powder, \ of a teaspoonful of salt, about J-
pint of water.
Method. — Free the suet from skin, shred and chop it finely. Mix well
together the flour, breadcrumbs, suet, salt and baking-powder, and add
water to form a paste soft enough to roll out easily, but not sufficiently
moist to stick to the board and rolling-pin. This paste makes an ex-
RECIPES FOR PASTRY 889
ceedingly light and easily-digested pudding, but in consequence of
its extreme lightness it is liable to break if turned out of the basin.
Time. — J of an hour. Average Cost, 3d. Sufficient for 1 fair sized
pudding.
1671. — SUET CRUST.
Ingredients. — 12 ozs. of flour, 6 ozs. of suet, 1 teaspoonful of baking-
powder, -]■ teaspoonful of salt, of a pint of water.
Method. — Chop the suet finely with a little of the flour, mix it with
the other dry ingredients, and add water to form a moderately stiff
paste. Roll out and use at once. This paste is equally suitable for
meat pudding, fruit pudding, jam roly-poly, or plain suet pudding.
Time. — £ of an hour. Average Cost, 5d. Sufficient for 1 large pudding.
1672. — SUET CRUST FOR MEAT PIES.
Ingredients. — 12 ozs. of flour, 6 ozs. of suet, 1 heaped teaspoonful of
baking-powder, ^ of a teaspoonful of salt, \ pint of cold water.
Method. — Free the suet from skin, shred it into fine flakes, but do
not chop it. Add the flour to the suet, and mix both well together
in a basin, then add the salt, baking-powder, and as much water as is
necessary to mix the whole into a fairly stiff paste. Knead lightly,
then roll out, and use for any kind of pie intended to be eaten hot.
Time. — £ of an hour. Average Cost, 5d. Sufficient for 1 large pie.
1673. — SWEET PASTE FOR TARTLETS.
( Fr . — Pate a Foncer Sucre.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of fine flour, 8 ozs. of castor sugar, 5 ozs. of butter,
3 eggs, the finely-grated rind of lemon.
Method. — Sieve the flour into a basin, make a well in the centre, put
in the sugar, butter and eggs, and mix the whole into a stiff paste.
Roll out and use as required.
Time. — 10 minutes Average Cost, is.
1674. — TO GLAZE PASTRY.
Meat pies, patties, sausage-rolls, and similar articles, are usually
brushed over with well-beaten egg before, or during the process of bak-
ing : when a deeper tone of colour is desired the yolk alone is used.
Or. when economy is a point, and the white can be otherwise utilized, a
little milk may be added to the yolk of egg when a larger quantity than
is afforded by r yolk is required. Fruit tarts, puffs, etc., are usually
brushed lightly over with cold water, and sprinkled liberally with castor
890
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
sugar before baking. Or, when a thin coating of icing is desired, they
are, when nearly baked, brushed over with well-beaten white of egg,
and well-dredged with castor sugar.
Tarts, Tartlets, Etc.
1675. — ALMOND CHEESECAKES. (Fr.— Tarte-
lettes aux Amandes.)
Ingredients. — Short paste No. 1667, or 1668, 4 ozs. of ground almonds,
4 ozs. of castor sugar, f of an oz. of cornflour, l an oz. of butter, 1 whole
egg, 1 yolk of egg, raspberry or strawberry jam, nutmeg.
Method. — Beat the eggs, add them gradually to the cornflour, and
stir until perfectly smooth. Add the sugar, almonds, butter melted,
and a pinch of nutmeg. Line 9 or 10 patty pans with paste, spread
about \ a teaspoonful of jam on the bottom of each one, and full with
the mixture. Bake from 20 to 25 minutes in a moderately hot oven.
Time. — 40 to 45 minutes. Average Cost, iod. Sufficient for 9 or 10
tartlets.
Almonds. — Almonds are the fruit of the Amygdalus communis , cultivated throughout the whole
of the south of Europe, Syria, Persia, and northern Africa ; but England is mostly supplied with
those that are grown in Spain and the south of France. There are two varieties, distinguished
in commerce by the names of Jordan and Valentia almonds. The former are imported from
Malaga, and are longer, narrower, more pointed, and more highly esteemed than the latter, which
are imported from Valentia. Bitter almonds are a different variety and are principally obtained
from Morocco, and are exported from Mogador.
1676. — APPLE AMBER.
Ingredients. — 6 large apples, 3 ozs. of moi'st sugar, 2 ozs. of butter,
3 eggs, a lemon, paste trimmings, or 4 ozs. of No. 1667, or 1668, ground
cinnamon, ground cloves.
Method. — Peel, core and slice the apples, put them into the stewpan
with sugar, and 1 tablespoonful of water, simmer gently until tender,
then rub through a hair sieve. Return the apple pulp to the stewpan,
add the lemon-rind, finely-grated, lemon-juice, and a good pinch each
of cloves and cinnamon. Re-heat, then stir in the butter and yolks of
eggs, and cook until the mixture thickens. Meanwhile line the edges
of the dish with paste, and ornament the extreme edge with small
leaves or rounds of the same, arranged to slightly overlap each other.
Pour in the apple preparation, and bake in a moderate oven until set.
Have ready the whites of eggs whisked to a stiff froth, and sweetened
with a little castor sugar, arrange in a rocky form on the top of the
pudding, sprinkle liberally with castor sugar, and, if liked, decorate
with cherries or candied fruits. Replace in the oven until the meringue
hardens and acquires a little colour, and serve either hot or cold.
Time. — About i-j hours. Average Cost, is., exclusive of the paste.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
RECIPES FOR PASTRY
091
1677. — APPLE CHEESECAKES.
Ingredients. — 1-|- lbs. of apples, 3 ozs. of sugar, 1-} oz. of butter, 3 eggs,
1 lemon, paste No. 1668.
Method. — Peel, core and slice the apples, place them in a stewpan
with the sugar, and 1 tablespoonful of water, simmer gently until
tender, and rub them through a hair sieve. Return the apple-pulp to
the stewpan, add the lemon-juice and the rind fmely-grated, re-heat,
stir in the yolks of 3 eggs and the white of one, and cook until the mix-
ture thickens. Have ready the patty-pans lined with paste and par-
tially baked, fill with the apple preparation, cover lightly with stiffly-
whipped sweetened white of egg, and bake in a moderate oven for about
15 minutes.
Time. — About 1 }- hours. Average Cost, rod., exclusive of the paste.
Sufficient for 12 cheese-cakes.
The Apple. — The most useful of all the British fruits is the apple, which is a native of Britain
and may be found in woods and hedges in the form of the common wild crab, of which all our best
apples are varieties produced by culture or particular circumstances. In most temperate cli-
mates it is extensively cultivated, and in England, both as regards variety and quantity, the
apple is excellent and abundant. Immense supplies are also imported from the United States and
from France, Australia and Tasmania. The apples grown in the vicinity of New York are universally
admitted to be among the finest specimens of this fruit ; but unless selected and packed with great
care, they are apt to spoil before reaching England.
1678. APPLE TART. ( Fr . — Tourte aux Pommes.)
Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of apples, 2 tablespoonfuls of moist sugar, 4 cloves
or a of a teaspoonful of grated lemon-rind, short paste (No. 1667, or
1668).
Method. — Peel, core and cut the apples into thick slices. Roll the
paste into an oval form a little larger than the top of the pie-dish, invert
the dish in the centre of the paste, and cut round, leaving a ^--inch mar-
gi i on all sides. Line the edge of the pie-dish with the trimmings, put
in half the apples, add the sugar, and flavouring ingredient, then the
remainder of the fruit. Moisten the paste lining the edge of the dish
with water, put on the cover, press the edges together, and notch them
at intervals of about of an inch. Bake in a brisk oven from 40 to 50
minutes, and when the paste has risen and set, brush it over lightly with
cold water, and dredge well with castor sugar. This must be done
quickly, and the tart immediately replaced in the oven. If the tart
is to be eaten cold, directly it leaves the oven the crust should be raised
gently with a knife, to allow some of the steam to escape, otherwise it
may lose some of its crispness.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 6d. to 8d., exclusive of the
pastry. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
1679. — APPLE TART CREAMED. (Fr.— Tourte de
Pommes a la Creme.)
Ingredients. — Short crust (No. 1667), 2 lbs. of apples, 2 tablespoonfuls
of moist sugar, 1 oz. of butter, 1 pint of custard (No. 332).
892
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Pare, core and cut the apples into thick slices, put them
into a stewpan with the sugar, butter, and 1 or 2 tablespoonfuls of
water, and cook very gently until tender. Pass the apples through a
hair sieve, add more sugar, if necessary, and put the puree into a pie-
dish lined with pastry ( see Apple Amber, No. 1676).
Bake in a quick oven until the paste has risen and set, then add the
prepared custard, and bake more slowly until the pastry is sufficiently
cooked and the custard firm. Serve either hot or cold.
Time. — From 40 to 50 minutes. Average Cost> is. qd. to is. 6d. Suffi-
cient for 6 or 7 persons.
1680. -APPLE TURNOVER.
See Fruit or Jam Turnovers, No. 1708.
1681. — APRICOT BOUCHEES. (Fr. — Bouchees
d’Abricots.)
Ingredients. — Puff paste (No. 1665), 1 tin of preserved apricots, castor
sugar, J of a pint of whipped-cream.
Method. — When the paste has had the necessary number of turns,
roll it out to rather less than an inch in thickness. With a hot wet
cutter stamp out some rounds about 2 inches in diameter, and make a
deep, circular indentation with a smaller cutter. Bake in a quick oven,
and when cool scoop out the paste within the ring. Meanwhile well
drain the apricots from the syrup, put half an apricot, the rounded side
down, into each case, and fill the hollow with stiffly- whipped sweetened
cream.
Time. — 12 minutes to bake. Average Cost, 2d. each.
1682. — APRICOT TART. (Fr. — Tourte d’Abricots.)
Ingredients. — 1 tin of apricots, sugar to taste, short paste (No. 1667).
Method. — Place the apricots in a pie-dish, sprinkle with sugar, and
half fill the dish with the syrup from the tin. Cover with paste ( see
Apple Tart, No. 1678), and bake in a quick oven from 30 to 40 minutes.
When the paste has risen and set, brush it over lightly with cold water.,
and dredge well with castor sugar. Return quickly to the oven, and
finish baking.
Time. — About 1 J hours. Average Cost, is. to is. 2d. Sufficient for 5 to
7 persons.
Apricots. — The apricot is indigenous to the plains of Armenia, but is now cultivated in almost
every climate, temperate or tropical. There are several varieties. The skin of this fruit has a per-
fumed and highly esteemed flavour. A good apricot, when perfectly ripe, is an excellent fruit. It
has been somewhat condemned for its laxative qualities, but this has possibly arisen from the fruit
having been eaten unripe, or in too great quantity. Delicate persons should not eat the apricot
uncooked, without a liberal allowance of powdered sugar. This fruit makes excellent jam and
marmalade, and there are several foreign preparations of it, which are considered great luxuries.
RECIPES FOR PASTRY
893
1683. — BAKEWELL TART.
Ingredients. — } a lb. of short paste (No. 1667, or 1668), raspberry jam,
2 ozs. of ground almonds, 2 ozs. of castor sugar, 2 ozs. of butter, 2 yolks
of eggs, 1 white of egg, essence of almonds.
Method. — Cream the butter and sugar together until thick and white,
stir in the 2 yolks, and 1 white of egg, add the almonds, also a few drops
of essence of almonds, and beat well. Line a flat dish with the pastry,
place a good layer of jam on the bottom, and spread the mixture lightly
on the top of it. Bake in a quick oven for about i- an hour, and serve
either hot or cold.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, is. 3d. Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.
1684. — BAKEWELL TART. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 6 ozs. of short crust (No. 1667, or 1668), 2 ozs. of butter,
2 ozs. of castor sugar, 2 ozs. of breadcrumbs, 1 egg, 2 tablespoonfuls
of raspberry jam, almond essence.
Method. — Cream the butter and sugar well together, stir in the egg,
add the breadcrumbs and a few drops of almond essence, and mix well.
Line a dish with the paste, add a good layer of raspberry jam, and
spread the mixture on the top of it. Bake about -} an hour in a quick
oven.
Time. — From 1 to i|- hours. Average Cost, iod. to is. Sufficient for
6 or 7 persons.
1685. BALMORAL TARTLETS. (Fr.— Tartelettes
a la Balmoral.)
Ingredients. — 1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of castor sugar, \ an oz. of cake-
crumbs, \ an oz. of glace cherries, cut into small dice, \ an oz. of candied
peel finely-shredded, of an oz. of cornflour, or potato flour, 1 egg,
short crust (No. 1667).
Method. — Make the paste as directed, and line 12 patty-pans. Cream
the butter and sugar until thick and white, stir in the yolk of the egg,
add the cake-crumbs, cherries, peel and cornflour. Whip the white
of egg stiffly, stir it in lightly, and fill the patty-cases with the prepara-
tion. Cross 2 narrow strips of paste on the top of each tartlet, and
bake for about 20 minutes in a moderate oven.
Time. — To prepare and bake, from 1 to i£ hours. Average Cost, is. 2d.
Sufficient for 12 small tartlets.
1686. — BARBERRY TARTLETS. (Fr.— Tartelettes
d’Epines-vinettes.^)
Ingredients.— Short paste (No. 1667,011668), 1 lb. of barberries, J a
lb. of moist sugar, or to taste.
892
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method.— Pare, core and cut the apples into thick slices, put them
into a stewpan with the sugar, butter, and 1 or 2 tablespoonfuls of
water, and cook very gently until tender. Pass the apples through a
hair sieve, add more sugar, if necessary, and put the puree into a pie-
dish lined with pastry ( see Apple Amber, No. 1676).
Bake in a quick oven until the paste has risen and set, then add the
prepared custard, and bake more slowly until the pastry is sufficiently
cooked and the custard firm. Serve either hot or cold.
Time. — From 40 to 50 minutes. Average Cost* is. 4d. to is. 6d. Suffi-
cient for 6 or 7 persons.
1680. — APPLE TURNOVER.
See Fruit or Jam Turnovers, No. 1708.
1681. — APRICOT BOUCHEES. (Fr.— Bouchees
d’Abricots.)
Ingredients. — Puff paste (No. 1665), [ tin of preserved apricots, castor
sugar, J of a pint of whipped-cream.
Method. — When the paste has had the necessary number of turns,
roll it out to rather less than an inch in thickness. With a hot wet
cutter stamp out some rounds about 2 inches in diameter, and make a
deep, circular indentation with a smaller cutter. Bake in a quick oven,
and when cool scoop out the paste within the ring. Meanwhile well
drain the apricots from the syrup, put half an apricot, the rounded side
down, into each case, and fill the hollow with stiffly-whipped sweetened
cream.
Time. — 12 minutes to bake. Average Cost, 2d. each.
1682. — APRICOT TART. ( Fr . — Tourte d’Abricots.)
Ingredients. — 1 tin of apricots, sugar to taste, short paste (No. 1667).
Method. — Place the apricots in a pie-dish, sprinkle with sugar, and
half fill the dish with the syrup from the tin. Cover with paste ( see
Apple Tart, No. 1678), and bake in a quick oven from 30 to 40 minutes.
When the paste has risen and set, brush it over lightly with cold water,
and dredge well with castor sugar. Return quickly to the oven, and
finish baking.
Time. — About ij hours. Average Cost, is. to is. 2d. Sufficient for 5 to
7 persons.
Apricots. — The apricot is indigenous to the plains of Armenia, but is now cultivated in almost
every climate, temperate or tropical. There are several varieties. The skin of this fruit has a per-
fumed and highly esteemed flavour. A good apricot, when perfectly ripe, is an excellent fruit. It
has been somewhat condemned for its laxative qualities, but this has possibly arisen from the fruit
having been eaten unripe, or in too great quantity. Delicate persons should not eat the apricot
uncooked, without a liberal allowance of powdered sugar. This fruit makes excellent jam and
marmalade, and there are several foreign preparations of it, which are considered great luxuries.
RECIPES FOR PASTRY
893
1683. — BAKEWELL TART.
Ingredients. — } a lb. of short paste (No. 1667, or 1668), raspberry jam,
2 ozs. of ground almonds, 2 ozs. of castor sugar, 2 ozs. of butter, 2 yolks
of eggs, 1 white of egg, essence of almonds.
Method. — -Cream the butter and sugar together until thick and white,
stir in the 2 yolks, and 1 white of egg, add the almonds, also a few drops
of essence of almonds, and beat well. Line a fiat dish with the pastry,
place a good layer of jam on the bottom, and spread the mixture lightly
on the top of it. Bake in a quick oven for about -1- an hour, and serve
either hot or cold.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, is. 3d. Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.
1684. — BAKEWELL TART. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 6 ozs. of short crust (No. 1667, or 1668), 2 ozs. of butter,
2 ozs. of castor sugar, 2 ozs. of breadcrumbs, 1 egg, 2 tablespoonfuls
of raspberry jam, almond essence.
Method. — Cream the butter and sugar well together, stir in the egg,
add the breadcrumbs and a few drops of almond essence, and mix well.
Line a dish with the paste, add a good layer of raspberry jam, and
spread the mixture on the top of it. Bake about an hour in a quick
oven.
Time. — From 1 to i£ hours. Average Cost, iod. to is. Sufficient for
6 or 7 persons.
1685. BALMORAL TARTLETS. (Fr.— Tartelettes
a la Balmoral.)
Ingredients. — 1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of castor sugar, \ an oz. of cake-
crumbs, \ an oz. of glace cherries, cut into small dice, 3- an oz. of candied
peel finely-shredded, of an oz. of cornflour, or potato flour, 1 egg,
short crust (No. 1667).
Method. — Make the paste as directed, and line 12 patty-pans. Cream
the butter and sugar until thick and white, stir in the yolk of the egg,
add the cake-crumbs, cherries, peel and cornflour. Whip the white
of egg stiffly, stir it in lightly, and fill the patty-cases with the prepara-
tion. Cross 2 narrow strips of paste on the top of each tartlet, and
bake for about 20 minutes in a moderate oven.
Time. — To prepare and bake, from 1 to i|- hours. Average Cost, is. 2d.
Sufficient for 12 small tartlets.
1686. — BARBERRY TARTLETS. (Fr.— Tartelettes
d’Epines-vinettes.')
Ingredients. — Short paste (No. 1667,011668), 1 lb. of barberries, a
lb. of moist sugar, or to taste.
8q4
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Remove the stalks, put the fruit and sugar into a jar, place
the jar in a saucepan of boiling water, or in a slow oven and cook until
tender. Line i large, or 2 medium-sized tart tins with the paste, fill
them with rice, or crusts of bread placed in buttered papers, and bake
until crisp in a brisk oven. When cold, fill them with the prepared
cold fruit and syrup, and serve.
Time. — About 3 hours. Average Cost, 8d. or iod. Sufficient for 1 large
or 2 medium-sized tarts.
Barberries (Berberris Vulgaris). — A fruit of such great acidity that even birds refuse to eat it.
In this respect, it nearly approaches the tamarind. When boiled with sugar, it makes a very agree-
able preserve or jelly, according to the different modes of preparation. Barberries are also used as
a dry sweetmeat, and in sugar-plums or comfits ; are pickled with vinegar, and are utilized for various
culinary purposes. They are well calculated to allay heat and thirst in persons afflicted with fevers.
The berries arranged on bunches of curled parsley make an exceedingly pretty garnish for supper
dishes, particularly for white meats, like boiled fowl a la Bechamel, the three colours — scarlet, green
and white — contrasting well and producing a very good effect.
1687. — BLACK-CURRANT TARTLETS.
(Fr. — Tartelettes de Cassis.)
Ingredients. — Short crust (No. 1667, or 1668), 1 lb. of black-currants,
2 tablespoonfuls of moist sugar, of a pint of cream, castor sugar.
Method. — Cook the black-currants with the sugar, and 2 tablespoon-
fuls of water, in a jar, on the stove or in a slow oven. Line 12 patty-
pans with the paste, fill them with rice placed in buttered papers, and
bake until crisp in a brisk oven. When cold, fill them with the pre-
pared cold fruit and syrup, cover with stiffly-whipped, sweetened cream,
and serve cold.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, iod., exclusive of the paste.
Sufficient for 12 tartlets.
Currants. — The utility of currants, red, black or white, has long been established in domestic
economy. The juice of the red species, if boiled with an equal weight of loaf sugar, forms an agreeable
preserve called currant jelly, much employed in sauces, and very valuable in the cure of sore throats
and colds. The French mix it with sugar and water, and thus form an agreeable beverage. The
juice of currants is a valuable remedy for constipation ; and, in febrile complaints, it is useful on
account of its readily quenching thirst, and for its cooling effect on the stomach. White and flesh-
coloured currants have, with the exception of the fulness of , flavour, in every respect the same
qualities as the red species. Both white and red currants are pleasant additions to dessert, but the
black variety is more generally used for culinary and medicinal purposes, especially in the form of
jelly for quinsy. Black currants have a much richer and less acid flavour than red currants, and
are better adapted for tarts. The leaves of the black currant make a pleasant kind of tea.
1688. — CHERRY TARTLETS. (Fr.— Tartelettes de
Cerises.)
Ingredients. — £alb. of short paste (No. 1667), 1 lb. of cooking cherries,
2 tablespoonfuls of moist sugar, 2 large or 3 small eggs, castor sugar.
Method. — Remove the stalks from the cherries, put them into a small
stewjar, with the moist sugar, stand the jar in a saucepan, surround it
with boiling water, and cook until the cherries are tender. Meanwhile
line 10 or 12 deep patty-pans with the paste, fill them with rice, placing
a buttered paper between it and the paste, and bake in a quick oven.
When the cherries are sufficiently cooked, strain off the syrup into a
RECIPES FOR PASTRY
895
small stewpan, add the yolks of eggs, previously beaten, and stir by
the side of the fire until the custard thickens. Fill the patty-cases_
with cherries, cover with a layer of custard, on the top spread a little
stiffly whipped white of egg, and sprinkle with castor sugar. Replace
in the oven until the white of egg hardens, and acquires a little colour,
then serve hot or cold.
Time. — 1£ to i-|- hours. Average Cost, is. to is. 3d. Sufficient for
10 or 1 2 tartlets.
Cherries. — According to Lucullus, the cherry tree was known in Asia in the year of Rome 680.
Seventy different species of cherries, wild and cultivated, exist, distinguishable from each other by
the difference of their form, size and colour. The French distil from cherries a liqueur named kirsch-
wasser (eau de cerises) ; the Italians prepare from a cherry called marusca the liqueur named
marasquin, which is sweeter and more agreeable than the former. The most wholesome cherries
have a tender and delicate skin ; those with a hard skin should be very carefully masticated. Sweet-
meats, syrups, tarts, entremets, etc., of cherries are in universal request.
1689. — CHESTNUT AMBER.
Ingredients. — \ a pint of chestnuts, \ a pint of milk, 2 ozs. of bread-
crumbs, 1 oz. of castor sugar, 1 oz. of butter, 2 eggs, 1 lemon, vanilla
essence, puff paste.
Method. — Bake or roast the chestnuts for about 20 minutes, and remove
the skins. Put them into a stewpan, with just sufficient water to cover
the bottom of the pan, simmer gently until tender, and rub through a
fine sieve. Simmer the thinly-cut rind of the lemon and the milk for
1 5 or 20 minutes, and strain it over the breadcrumbs. Cream the butter
and sugar together, until thick and smooth, add the yolks of the eggs,
the juice of the lemon, a few drops of vanilla essence, and stir in the
chestnuts, breadcrumbs and milk. Have the pie-dish ready lined
with paste, as directed for Apple Amber, pour in the mixture, and
bake in a moderately hot oven from 25 to 30 minutes, or until the
mixture is firm and brown, and the paste sufficiently cooked. Whip
the whites to a stiff froth, sweeten with a little sugar, pile lightly on
the top of the pudding, and dredge well with castor sugar. Return to
the oven until the meringue is set and acquires a little colour.
Time. — From ij to i£ hours. Average Cost, about is. Sufficient for
5 or 6 persons.
1690. — CHOCOLATE TARTLETS. (Fr. — Tartelettes
au Chocolat.)
Ingredients. — Short paste (No. 1667, or 1668), 2 ozs. of grated chocolate,
4 ozs. of cake crumbs, 3 ozs. of castor sugar, 2 ozs. of butter, \ an oz.
of cornflour, 2 eggs, chocolate icing (No. 1733).
Method. — Cream the yolks of the eggs and sugar well together, add
the cake-crumbs, chocolate, cornflour, and the butter melted. Whip
the whites of eggs stiffly, and stir them in as lightly as possible. Have
ready 12 patty-pans lined with short paste, fill them with the mixture,
8g6
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
and bake in a moderately hot oven from 20 to 25 minutes. When cold
cover the surface of each tartlet with chocolate icing, allow it to harden
then serve.
Time. — To bake, from 25 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, 8d., exclusive
of paste and icing. Sufficient for 12 tartlets.
Ingredients. — Short paste (No. 1667), Genoese paste (No. 1656), choco-
late icing (No. 1733), grated cocoanut.
Method. — Line some deep tartlet moulds with the paste, fill them with
Genoise mixture, and bake in a moderate oven. When cold, ice them
over with chocolate icing, and sprinkle with cocoanut. Variety may
be introduced by using orange icing (No. 1720), or transparent icing and
chopped pistachios.
Time. — Half an hour.
1692.— COFFEE ECLAIRS. (Fr.— Eclairs au Cafe.)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of milk, 2 ozs. of butter, 2 ozs. of cornflour, 2 ozs.
of Vienna flour, 3 eggs, \ a teaspoonful of vanilla essence, a pinch of
salt, 1 oz. of castor sugar, Moka custard for filling, coffee icing for
covering, No. 1735.
Method. — Put the water, butter, sugar and salt into a stewpan, when
boiling, stir in the cornflour and Vienna flour (previously mixed), work
it with a wooden spoon over the fire, sufficiently long to produce a soft
paste which will leave the side and bottom of the pan clean. Draw
the stewpan from the fire, add the flavouring essence, and work the
eggs in gradually (leaving out 1 white). Beat the paste well for some
minutes, then put it in a large forcing or savoy bag with a plain tube,
and force out even-sized shapes, similar to finger biscuits, on to a lightly
buttered baking-tin, about 1 inch apart from each other. Bake to a
nice fawn colour in a moderate oven. When done, split the sides with
a sharp knife, and fill each with 1 teaspoonful of Moka custard. Have
ready some coffee icing, and dip each eclair into it, so as to cover the
surface and sides well and smoothly. Place the eclairs on a wire tray
to set, and dish up when required.
1693. — MOKA CUSTARD FOR FILLING ECLAIRS.
Ingredients. — 1 gill of milk, 1 oz. of loaf sugar, \ an oz. of cornflour,
\ an oz. of fresh butter, 2 yolks of eggs, 1 teaspoonful of coffee essence,
a few drops of vanilla essence.
Method. — Put the milk and sugar in a stewpan to boil. Mix the
cornflour with a little cold milk, pour the boiling milk on this, mix
1691.— CHOCOLATE TARTLETS.
Method.)
(Another
RECIPES FOR PASTRY
897
thoroughly, return to the stewpan, and let it boil for a few minutes ;
add the flavouring essences and the butter, stir in the egg-yolks, con-
tinue to stir until the mixture binds, pour it in a basin, and let it cool.
Time. — 20 minutes. Average Cost, is., exclusive of the icing. Sufficient
for 1 dish.
1694. — CREAM TARTLETS. (Fr. — Tartelettes a la
Creme.)
Ingredients. — Short paste (No. 1667, or 1668), apricot jam, of a pint
of cream, castor sugar.
Method. — Line 10 or 12 patty-pans with the paste, fill them with rice,
with buttered paper between it and the paste, and bake until crisp in
a brisk oven. When cool, about half fill them with jam, pile the stiffly-
whipped sweetened cream on the top, and serve cold.
Time. — About 10 minutes. Average Cost, i-J-d. each. Sufficient for 10
or 12 tartlets.
1695. — CUSTARD TARTLETS. ( Fr . — Cremes cuite
au four.)
Ingredients. — Short paste (No. 1667, or 1668), 4 whole eggs, 2 whites of
eggs, 1 pint of milk, sugar.
Method. — Line 12 deep patty-tins with short paste. Beat the 4 eggs,
add the milk, and sweeten to taste. Fill the patty-pans with custard,
and bake in a moderate oven until set. Have ready the whites of eggs,
stiffly-whisked and sweetened, pile lightly on the tartlets, and replace
them in the oven until the meringue hardens, and acquires a little
colour. Serve cold.
Time. — From 25 to 30 minutes, to bake. Average Cost, 9d., exclusive
of the paste. Sufficient for 12 tartlets.
1696. CUSTARD TARTLETS. (Another Method.)
( Fr . — Cremes cuite.)
Ingredients. — Short paste (No. 1667, or 1668), 4 eggs, 1 pint of milk,
sugar, jam.
Method. — Bring the milk nearly to boiling point, add the sugar, and
when dissolved pour on to the well-beaten eggs, stirring meanwhile.
Return to the stewpan, or it preferred, put the mixture into a jug and
stand it in a saucepan of boiling water, and stir until the custard
thickens, but it must not boil. Line 12 deep patty-pans with paste,
spread a good layer of jam on the bottom of each one, and fill with the
custard. Bake in a moderate oven until the custard is set.
Time. — To bake, from 25 to 35 minutes. Average Cost, qd., exclusive
of the paste. Sufficient for 12 tartlets.
G G
8g8 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1697. — DAMSON TART. (Fr. — Tourte aux prunes
de damas.)
Ingredients. — Short paste (No, 1667, or 1668), i-J- pints of damsons, 2
heaped tablespoonfuls of brown sugar, or to taste.
Method. — Prepare the crust as directed in Apple Tart (No. 1678).
In the centre of the pie-dish place an inverted cup or a ventilating cup
and funnel to retain the juice, half fill the dish with fruit, add the sugar,
then put in the remainder of the fruit. Cover with paste, brush lightly
over with cold water, sprinkle liberally with castor sugar, and bake in
a quick oven.
Time. — About if hours. Average Cost, iod. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Damsons. — Whether for jam, jelly, pie, pudding, water, ice, wine, dried fruit, or preserved, the
damson plum or damascene (for it was originally brought from Damascus, whence its name), is in-
valuable. It combines sugary and acid qualities in happy proportions, when full ripe. The damson
is easily cultivated ; and, if budded nine inches from the ground on vigorous stocks, it will grow
several feet high in the first year, and make fine standards in the year following. Amongst the list
of the best sorts of baking plums the damson stands first, not only on account of the abundance of
its rich juice, but because it so soon softens. Owing to the roughness of its flavour, it requires a
large quantity of sugar.
1698. — ECLAIRS. (Fr. — Eclairs.)
Ingredients. — Choux paste (No. 1650), chocolate or coffee icing (No.
1733, and 1735), cream, custard (No. 1738), or jam.
Method. — Put the choux paste into a forcing-bag, and press it out on
to a buttered baking-sheet in the form of small savoy biscuits. Or,
if a bag and pipe are not available, roll it on a floured board to the same
shape. Bake from 15 to 20 minutes in a moderate oven, let them cool
on a sieve, then make an incision on the side of them and scoop out the
soft interior. Fill the cavities with stiffly-whipped sweetened cream,
confectioners’ custard or jam, and coat them with chocolate or coffee
icing.
Time. — Altogether, from if to 2 hours. Average Cost, 2d. each.
1699. — FILBERT TARTLETS. (Fr. — Tartelettes aux
Avelines.)
Ingredients. — Paste (No. 1667, or 1668), 3 ozs. of filberts, 1 oz. of
ground almonds, 3 ozs. of castor sugar, \ an oz. of cornflour, 4 yolks
of eggs, \ a gill of cream or milk.
Method. — Blanch and peel the nuts and chop them finely. Mix the
cornflour smoothly with the milk, and stir it over the fire until it thickens.
Cream the volks of eggs and sugar together until thick and smooth,
add the prepared nuts and almonds, then stir in the cornflour and milk.
Put the mixture into 12 patty-pans lined with paste, lix 2 thin strips
of paste across each tartlet, brush over with milk, and dredge with
castor sugar. Bake in a moderate oven for about 20 minutes.
Time. — About 40 minutes. Average Cost, 9d. or iod., exclusive of
the paste. Sufficient for 12 tartlets.
RECIPES FOR PASTRY 899
1700. — FLAN OF APPLES. (Fr. — Flan de Pommes.)
Ingredients. — 3 or 4 apples, 1 tablespoonful of moist sugar, 2 table-
spoonfuls of sherry, 4 cloves, 2 whites of eggs, castor sugar, \ a lb. of
short crust (No. 1667, or 1668).
Method. — Peel, core, and cut each apple into 8 sections, place them
in a stewpan, a,dd the cloves and sherry, cover closely, stand the stew-
pan in a tin containing boiling water, and cook until tender, but not
sufficiently so as to break easily. Meanwhile line a 6-inch diameter flan
or paste-ring with paste rolled out to about |-inch in thickness, hll it
with rice, placed on an interlining of buttered paper, and bake in a
quick oven. When done, remove the rice and paper, fdl with the apples,
arranged in a pyramid, strain the juice (if any) over them, and sprinkle
well with sugar. Whip the whites of eggs to a stiff froth, spread it lightly
over the apples, dredge well with castor sugar, and bake in a cool oven
until lightly-browned. Serve either hot or cold.
There are two ways of making a flan without the aid of a ring.
The first is by means of a round cake-tin. The tin is placed in
the centre of the rolled-out paste, which is cut round, leaving a
margin of about 1 inch, to be afterwards raised and moulded to the
shape of the tin. Before removing the tin a narrow-folded band
of greased paper must be pinned lightly round this raised border. In
the second method, the bottom is cut out to the required size, and a
narrow strip of paste fastened to the edge of it by means of white of
egg. A band of paper must support the border ; and in both cases
the inside should be filled with rice before baking.
Time. — About 1^ hours. Average Cost, from is. to is. 2d. Sufficient
for 4 or 5 persons.
1701. — FLAN OF PINEAPPLE. (Fr. — Flan d’Ananas.)
Ingredients. — \ a preserved pineapple, castor sugar, 2 eggs, ^ a lb. of
short crust (No. 1667, or 1668).
Method. — Prepare and bake the flan as for Flan de Pommes. Cut
the pineapple into dice and remove all the specks. Strain the syrup,
place a ;j-pint of it in a stewpan with a dessertspoonful of sugar, bring
to boiling point, and simmer for 3 or 4 minutes. Let it cool slightly,
then add the yolks ol the eggs, and cook gently by the side of the fire
until they thicken, stirring meanwhile. Now place the pineapple in
the prepared flan, cover with the custard, and spread the stiffly-
whipped whites of eggs on the top. Bake in a moderately cool oven
until the meringue hardens, and browns slightly. Serve either hot or
cold.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, about is. Sufficient for 5 or 6
persons.
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
goo
1702. — FLAN OF STRAWBERRIES. (Fr.— Flan de
Fraises.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of strawberries, castor sugar, 2 whites of eggs, \ a
lb. of short crust (No. 1667, or 1668).
Method. — Make the flan as directed in No. 1700 ; when about;]- baked
remove the rice, and fill with strawberries, from which the stalks have
been removed. Pile the fruit high in the centre, dredge well with castor
sugar, and cover with stiffly-whisked white of egg. Cover the surface
lightly with castor sugar, replace in the oven, and bake slowly for about
15 minutes. When the meringue is set, cover with paper to prevent
it browning too much before the strawberries are sufficiently cooked.
Serve either hot or cold.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, is. 2d. to is. 6d. Sufficient for
5 or 6 persons.
Note. — Almost any kind of fruit may be made into a flan ; the varieties
employed for culinary purposes may be broadly divided into 3 classes, viz.,
fruit requiring a comparatively large amount of cooking, such as apples,
pears, plums ; quickly cooked fruits like strawberries, raspberries, etc. ;
and tinned fruits which simply require re-heating. The 3 appended recipes
illustrate methods applicable in each case.
1703. — FLUTED ROLLS. ( Fr . — Rouloux.)
Ingredients. — Puff paste, castor sugar.
Method. — Roll out the puff paste, dredge it well with castor sugar,
and fold as usual. Repeat this twice, then roll it out to about ^ of an
inch in thickness, and stamp out some rounds with a fluted 2 inch cutter.
Roll them up, brush lightly over with water, dredge with castor sugar,
bake in a moderate oven until crisp and lightly browned.
Time. — 10 minutes to bake.
1704. — FOLKESTONE CHEESECAKES.
(. Fr . — Gateau de Folkestone.)
Ingredients. — 1 pint of milk, 4 ozs. of sugar, 3 ozs. of ground rice, 2 ozs.
of butter, 2 ozs. of currants, cleaned and picked, the grated rind of 1
lemon, salt, paste (No. 1667, or 1668).
Method. — Simmer the ground rice in the milk for \ an hour, then stir
in the butter, sugar, lemon-rind, the well-beaten eggs, a good pinch of
salt, and stir and cook by the side of the fire until the mixture thickens.
Now let it cool slightly, and meanwhile line the patty-pans with paste,
and unless the oven has a good bottom heat, half bake them before put-
ting in the mixture ( see Cherry Tartlets, No. 1688). When ready,
fill them with the cheesecake preparation, sprinkle a few currants on
the top of each cake, and bake from 25 to 30 minutes in a brisk oven.
Time. — From i£ to i-|- hours. Average Cost, 7d., exclusive of the
paste. Sufficient for 12 large cheesecakes.
RECIPES FOR PASTRY
901
1705. — FRANGIPAN TART. (Fr. — Tourte a la
Frangipanne.)
Ingredients. — Short crust, 4 eggs, 1+ ozs. of butter, 1} ozs. of sugar,
£ of an oz. of flour, \ a pint of milk, 1 bay-leaf, 2 or 3 line strips of lemon-
rinrl, nutmeg.
Method. — Mix the flour smoothly with a little milk, simmer the re-
mainder with the bay-leaf, lemon-rind, and a pinch of nutmeg, for
about 15 minutes, then strain it on the blended flour and milk, stirring
meanwhile. Return to the stewpan, add the butter, sugar, and slightly-
beaten eggs, and stir by the side of the hre until the mixture thickens,
but do not let it boil. Line a tart-tin with the paste, pour in the pre-
paration when cool, and bake from 25 to 30 minutes in a moderate
oven. Serve cold.
Time. — To bake, about l- an hour. Average Cost, /d., exclusive of the
paste. Sufficient for 1 large or 2 medium-sized tarts.
Frangipanni Puddings were originally made chiefly of broken bread and a great variety
of flavouring substances. This was named after the Marchese Frangipanni, head of a very
ancient Roman family whose privilege it was to supply “ holy bread ” or wafers to St. Peter’s Cathe-
dral, hence the name, derived from the Latin words frangere (to break) and panis (bread). The
Marchese Frangipanni was the inventor of the complicated, but very durable, perfume which bears
this name.
1706. — FRENCH HONEY (Imitation). (Fr.— Miel
Frangais.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of loaf sugar, 3 ozs. of butter, the yolks of 6 eggs,
the whites of 4 eggs, the juice of 4 lemons, and the finely-grated rind
of 2 lemons.
Method. — Place the sugar, butter, lemon-rind and lemon-juice in a
jug, stand it in a saucepan of boiling water, and as soon as the sugar is
dissolved add the beaten eggs, and stir until the mixture thickens. If
stored in a cool, drv place, this preparation will keep good lor months.
Time. — ■} an hour. Average Cost, is. 3d.
1707. — FROSTED ALMOND SANDWICHES.
(Fr.- Denises aux Amandes.)
Ingredients. — Puff paste (No. 1665), cheese-cake mixture (No. 1704),
apricot or raspberry jam, blanched and shredded almonds, 1 white
of egg, milk, castor sugar, vanilla sugar.
Method. — Roll the paste out to about a of an inch in thickness, and
cut it into 2 long strips 3 inches wide. Place one strip on a wetted
baking-tin, prick lightly with a fork to prevent it blistering, spread first
a thin layer of jam, and then a layer of cheese-cake mixture. Cover
with the other strip of paste, moisten the edges and pinch them together,
brush lightlv over with milk, and dredge with castor sugar. Bake in
a moderate oven for about 10 minutes, and let the pastry cool a little.
Whip the white of egg to a stiff froth, sweeten with 1 tablespoonful of
902
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
vanilla sugar, spread it lightly on the pastry, and sprinkle on the pre-
pared almonds. Divide into strips about inches wide, replace in
the oven, and bake for 10 minutes longer.
Time. — \ hour, after the pastry is made. Average Cost, is. 6d. to
is. pd. Sufficient for io persons.
1708. — FRUIT OR JAM TURNOVERS.
(Fr. — Patisserie de Fruit.)
Ingredients. — Short crust or puff paste (No. 1667, or 1665), stewed
fruit or jam, castor sugar.
Method. — Roll the paste out thinly, and cut it into rounds about 4
inches in diameter. Place a little fruit or jam in the centre of each
round, moisten the edges with water, and fold the paste over on 3 sides in
the form of a triangle. Seal the join carefully, turn them over, brush
lightly with cold water, and dredge well with castor sugar. Bake in a
moderate oven.
Time. — To bake, about 15 minutes. Average Cost. -Id. each.
1709. — GOOSEBERRY TART. (Fr.— Tourte de
Grosseilles.)
Ingredients. — il- pints of gooseberries, of alb. of short crust, (No.
1667, or 1 668 ), T of a lb. of moist sugar.
Method. — With a pair of scissors cut off the tops and tails of the goose-
berries ; put them into a deep pie-dish, pile the fruit high in the centre,
and put in the sugar ; line the edge of the dish with short crust, put
on the cover, and ornament the edges of the tart ; bake in a good oven
for about f of an hour, and before sein ing dredge with castor sugar.
Time.— To bake, about | hour. Average Cost, iod. Sufficient for 5 or
6 persons.
Gooseberries. — The red and white are the two principal varieties of gooseberries. The red are
rather the more acid ; but, when covered with white sugar, are more wholesome, from the circum-
stance that sugar neutralizes their acidity. Red gooseberries make an excellent jelly, which is light
and refreshing, but not very nourishing. All sorts of gooseberries are agreeable when stewed, and
in this country especially there is no fruit so universally in favour. In Scotland there is
scarcely a cottage garden without its gooseberry bushes. Several of the species are cultivated
with the greatest care.
1710. — GRANVILLE TARTLETS. (Fr.— Tartelettes
a la Granville.)
Ingredients. — Paste (No. 1667, or 1668), 3 ozs. of castor sugar, 2 ozs. of
butter, 2 ozs. of currants, cleaned and picked, 1 oz. of ground rice, 1 oz.
of finely-shredded candied peel, 3 ozs. of cakS crumbs, 1 oz. of desiccated
cocoanut, 2 whites of eggs, 1 tablespoonful of cream, lemon essence,
transparent icing (No. 1737).
Method. — Cream the butter and sugar together until thick and smooth,
add the currants, ground rice, peel, cake crumbs, cream, 4 or 5 drops
of lemon essence, and lastly, the stiffly- whipped whites of eggs. Line
18 small oval tartlet moulds with paste, fill them with the preparation,
RECIPES FOR PASTRY
903
and bake from 1 5 to 20 minutes in a moderate oven. When cool, mask
the tartlets with icing, and sprinkle them with desiccated cocoanut.
Time. — To bake, from 15 to 20 minutes. Average Cost, is., exclusive
of the paste. Sufficient for t8 tartlets.
171 1. — LEMON CHEESECAKES. (Fr.— Tartelettes
au Citron.)
Ingredients.- — Short paste (No. 1667, or 1 668), 1 lb. of loaf sugar, :I- of a
lb. of butter, 6 eggs, the grated rind of 2 lemons and the juice of 3, finely-
shredded candied peel.
Method. — Put the sugar, butter, lemon-rind and strained lemon-j nice
into a stcwpan, and stir until the sugar is dissolved. Beat the yolks
of eggs, add them to the contents of the stewpan, and stir and cook
slowly until the mixture thickens. Let it remain in a cool dry place
until required. Line the patty-pans with paste, till them with the
preparation, add a few strips of candied peel, and bake for about 20
minutes in a moderately hot oven.
Time. — To bake, about 20 minutes. Average Cost, is. qd., exclusive
of the paste. Sufficient for 2} dozen cheese-cakes.
Note. — The above preparation, if closely covered and stored in a cool
dry place, will keep good for several weeks.
1712. LEMON TARTLETS. (Fr.— Tartelettes
au Citron.)
Ingredients. — Short paste (No. 1667, or 1668), 4 ozs. of butter, 4 ozs. of
castor sugar, 3 yolks of eggs, 1 lemon.
Method. — Cream the butter and sugar well together, beat each yolk
of egg in separate^, and add the juice of the lemon and the rind finely
grated. Let the mixture stand in a cool, dry place for at least 24 hours,
then bake in patty-pans, previously lined with the short paste.
Time. — To bake, from 15 to 20 minutes. Average Cost, 8d., exclusive
of the paste. Sufficient for 18 tartlets.
1713. - LEMON TARTLETS. ( Fr . — Tartelettes au
Citron. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — Short paste (No. 1667, or 1668), 4 lemons, 4 ozs. of loaf
sugar, 4 ozs. of blanched finely-shredded almonds.
Method. — Pare the lemons thickly, boil the fruit in 2 or 3 waters
until tender, then pound or rub through a fine sieve. Replace in the
stewpan, add the sugar, almonds and lemon-j uice, and boil until a
thick syrup is obtained. Line 10 or 12 patty- pans with paste, fill
them with the preparation, and bake for about 20 minutes in a
moderately hot oven.
Time. — To bake, from 20 to 25 minutes. Average Cost, 8cl., exclusive
of the paste. Sufficient for 10 or 12 tartlets.
904 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1714. — MAIDS OF HONOUR.
(. Fr . — Dames d’Honneur.)
Ingredients. — Puff paste (No. 1665), 4 ozs. of castor sugar, 2 ozs. of
Jordan almonds, t an oz. of line flour, 2 yolks of eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls
of cream, I tablespoonful of orange-flower water.
Method. — Blanch and dry the almonds, and pound them in a mortar
with the sugar until fine. Add the yolks of eggs one at a time, and
mix in the flour, cream and orange-flower water. Line 8 or 9 small
tartlet moulds with paste, fill them with the mixture, and bake in a
moderate oven.
Time. — To bake, about 15 minutes. Average Cost, Sd., exclusive of
the paste. Sufficient for 8 or 9 tartlets.
1715. — MERINGUE TARTS.
See Flan of Apples, No. 1700 ; Flan of Pineapple, No. 1701, ;
Flan of Strawberries, No. 1702 ; Apple Amber, No. 1676.
1716. — MINCE PIES. (Fr. — Pate de Fruits.)
Ingredients. — Puff paste (No. 1665), mince meat (No. 1740, or 1741).
Method. — When the paste has had the necessary number of turns,
roll it out to about a J of an inch in thickness, and line some large-sized
patty-pans with it ( see page 888 \ Fill with mincemeat, cover with
paste, brush over lightly with cold water, and dredge with castor sugar.
Bake in a moderately hot oven from 25 to 30 minutes, and serve either
hot or cold.
Time. — 30 minutes to bake. Average Cost, i-J-d. each.
1717. — OPEN TART OF STRAWBERRY OR ANY
OTHER KIND OF PRESERVE.
Ingredients. — Trimmings of puff paste, anv kind of jam.
Method. — Butter a tart-pan of the usual shape, roll out the paste to
the thickness of ^ of an inch, and line the pan with it, prick a few
holes at the bottom with a fork to prevent the paste rising and blister-
ing, and bake the tart in a brisk oven from 10 to 15 minutes. Let the
paste cool a little ; then fill it with preserve, place on it a few stars or
leaves, which have been previously cut out of paste and baked, and the
tart is ready for table. By making the tart in this manner, both the
flavour and the colour of the jam are preserved, which would be
spoiled, were it baked in the oven on the paste, and less jam is required.
Time. — 10 minutes to bake.
The Strawberry. — The well-known and much esteemed fruit of a plant of the genus Fragaria,
natural order Rosacea , said to derive its name from the resemblance of its runners to straws.
The strawberry belongs to temperate and rather cold climates ; and no fruit of these latitudes, that
ripens without the aid of artificial heat, is at all comparable with it in point of flavour. The straw-
berry is widely diffused, being found in most parts of the world, and more particularly in Europe,
and America.
RECIPES FOR PASTRY
9°5
1718. — ORANGE TARTLETS. (Fr. — Tartelettes aux
Oranges.)
Ingredients. — 2 good oranges, 3 ozs. of butter, 3 ozs. of sugar, 3 yolks
of eggs, 1 white of egg, \ a teaspoonful of vanilla essence, paste (No. 1667,
or 1668).
Method. — Remove the rinds of the oranges as thinlv as possible, and
chop them finely. Cream the butter and sugar well together, beat
each yolk in separately, add 2 tablespoonfuls of orange-juice, the orange-
rind and vanilla essence. Whisk the white of egg stiffly, add it lightly
to the rest of the ingredients, and pour the mixture into the tartlet
moulds, previously lined with paste. Bake from 1 5 to 20 minutes in
a moderate oven, and when \ baked, dredge them well with castor
sugar.
Time. — 30 to 40 minutes. Average Cost. 8d., exclusive of the paste.
Sufficient for 9 or 10 tartlets.
1719. — ORANGE TARTLETS. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — The finely-grated rind of 2 oranges, the juice of 1 orange,
3 ozs. of butter, 3 ozs. of castor sugar, 1+ ozs. of cake crumbs, 2 eggs,
1 teaspoonful of cornflour, paste (No. 1667, or 1668).
Method. — Cream the butter and sugar well together, beat each yolk
in separately, add the grated orange-peel, cornflour and orange-juice,
previously mixed smoothly together, the cakecrumbs, and lastly, the
stiffly-whipped whites of eggs. Pour the mixture into 10 or 12 tartlet-
tins, previously lined with paste, and bake for about 20 minutes in a
moderately hot oven. When cold, mask with the icing prepared as
below.
1720. — PARISIAN TARTLETS. (Fr.— Tartelettes a
la Parisienne.)
Ingredients.— Short crust (No. 1667, or 1668), 3 ozs. of butter, 3 ozs. of
castor sugar, 2 ozs. of cake crumbs, 1 oz. of cornflour, 1 oz. of ground
almonds, 2 small eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, 1 dessertspoonful
of lemon-juice, i- a teaspoonful of ground cinnamon.
Method. — Cream the butter and sugar well together until thick and
smooth, add the eggs separately and beat well. Mix the cream and
cornflour smoothly together, stir the ingredients into the mixture, add
the ground almonds, cake crumbs, cinnamon and lemon-juice, and mix
well together. Line 12 tartlet-moulds with paste, fill them with the
preparation, and bake in a moderate oven from 1 5 to 20 minutes. When
about £- baked, dredge them well with castor sugar.
Time. — 30 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, iod., exclusive of the paste.
Sufficient for 12 tartlets.
go6
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1721. — PASTRY SANDWICHES. (Fr.— Patisserie.)
Ingredients. — Pastry trimmings, jam, castor sugar.
Method. — Knead the trimmings lightly into a smooth round ball, and
roll out very thinly, keeping the shape as square as possible. Spread
jam evenly over one half, fold the other half over, wet the edges, and
press them lightly together. Brush over with water, dredge well with
castor sugar, and with the back of a blade of a knife mark the paste
across in lines about 1 inch apart Bake for about 20 minutes in a
moderate oven, and when cold cut the paste into strips. If preferred,
currants, with the addition of a little sugar and shredded candied
peel, may be used instead of jam.
Time. — 30 minutes.
1722. — CREAM BUNS. (Fr. — Petits Choux a la
Creme.)
Ingredients. — Choux paste (No. 1650), \ a pint of cream, castor sugar.
Method.- — Shape the paste as directed in the recipe for Coffee Eclairs,
and bake them from 10 to 15 minutes. When cool, make an incision
on one side, scoop out the soft interior, and fill them with stiffly-whipped
sweetened cream. Dredge with castor sugar, and serve.
Time. — From i£ to i-J hours. Average Cost, 2d. each. Sufficient for
1 dish.
1723. — POLISH TARTLETS. (Fr. — Tartlettes a la
Polonaise.)
Ingredients. — Puff paste trimmings, raspberry and apricot jam,
chopped pistachios, grated cocoanut.
Method.-‘-Roll the paste out thinly, cut it into 2|--inch squares, moisten
each corner, fold them over to meet in the centre, and cover the join
with a small round of paste. Bake in a moderately hot oven for about
15 minutes. When cold place a little jam at each corner, and sprinkle
cocoanut on the raspberry jam, and a little hnely-chopped pistachio
nut on the apricot jam.
Time. — To bake, from 10 to 15 minutes.
1724. — PRUNE TARTS. (Fr. — Tourte aux Pruneaux.)
Ingredients. — f- of a lb. of prunes, 1 tablespoonful of cranberry juice,
sugar to taste, paste (No. 1667, or 1668).
Method. — Scald the prunes, remove the stones, and take out the
kernels ; put the fruit and kernels into the cranberry juice, and add
the sugar ; simmer for 10 minutes, when cold make the tarts. Any
stone fruit can be cooked in the same way.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 8d. to is. Sufficient for 2
medium-sized tarts.
RECIPES FOR PASTRY
9 °7
1725.— PUMPKIN PIE.
Ingredients. — To every quart of pumpkin, strained, allow 6 eggs, J of a
lb. of butter, \ a pint of sweet milk, b a lb. of white sugar, 1 table-
spoonful of French brandy, 1 gill of Madeira or sherry, paste (No. 1667,
or 1668).
Method.— Cut the pumpkin into large pieces ; peel these, and put
them into cold water over a very slow fire ; simmer, without boiling,
until every piece is tender, then strain through a colander, and after-
wards through coarse muslin. To every quart of the pumpkin add
the ingredients given above, the eggs previously beaten till thick and
light, and the butter and sugar stirred to a cream. When well mixed,
bake in a pie-dish lined and covered with paste.
Time. — 1 \ hours. Average Cost, 2s. per pie. Sufficient for 6 or 8
persons.
1726.— PUFF PASTE RINGS WITH JAM.
Ingredients. — Puff-paste trimmings, jam, white of egg, castor sugar.
Method. — Roll the paste out to about a J of an inch in thickness, and
stamp out an equal number of rounds 2\ and if inches in diameter.
Brush the larger rounds over with white of egg ; stamp out the centre
of the smaller rounds, thus forming them into rings!, one of which must
be pressed lightly on the top of each round of paste. Bake in a moder-
ately hot oven, and when cold fill with jam.
Time. — 15 minutes to bake. Average Cost, 2d. each.
1727.— RASPBERRY TARTLETS. (Fr — Tartelettes
aux Framboises.)
Ingredients. Short paste (No. 1667, or 1668), 1 pint of raspberries, \ a
lb. of loaf sugar, of a pint of water, -5,- a glass of brandy (optional),
desiccated cocoanut.
Method. — Boil the sugar and water together until reduced to a syrup,
add the raspberries, and cook gently for a few minutes. Drain, replace
the syrup in the stewpan, boil rapidly until considerably reduced, then
let it cool, and add the brandy. line 10 or 12 patty-pans with paste,
fill them with rice, placed in buttered papers, and bake in a moderately
hot oven until crisp. When cool, fill them with the prepared fruit,
add an equal portion of syrup to each tartlet, sprinkle with cocoanut,
and serve cold.
Time. — To bake, from 10 to 15 minutes. Average Cost, is. 3d. to is. 6d.,
exclusive of the paste. Sufficient for 10 or 12 tartlets.
9o3 household management
1728. — RED CURRANT AND RASPBERRY TART.
{Fr. — Tourte aux Groseilles rouges.)
Ingredients. — 1\ pints of red currants, \ a pint of raspberries, 2 or 3
tablespoonfuls of moist sugar, short crust (No. 1667, or 1668).
Method. — Strip the currants from the stalks, put half of them into
a pie-dish with an inverted cup in the midst, add the sugar and rasp-
berries, then the remainder of the currants, piling them rather high in
the centre. Cover with paste ( see Apple Tart, brush lightly over
with water, dredge well with castor sugar, and bake for about f- of an
hour in a moderately hot oven.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, is. 2d., Sufficient for 6 or 7
persons.
Raspberries. — There are two sorts of raspberries, the red and the white. Both the scent and the
flavour of this fruit are very refreshing, and the berry itself is exceedingly wholesome and invaluable
to people of a nervous or bilious temperament. It is a delicate fruit, but well repays careful cultiva-
tion. Growers have succeeded in producing several fine varieties for cooking, jam making, and
dessert. In Scotland it is found in large quantities growing wild, and is eagerly sought after in the
woods by children. Its juice, which is rich and abundant, is extremely agreeable.
1729. __ST. CLOUD TARTLETS. {Fr.— Tartelettes
a la St. Cloud.)
Ingredients.--Short paste (No. 1667 ), puff-paste or puff-paste trimmings,
a lb. of greengage jam, castor sugar, vanilla sugar, a gill of cream,
glace cherries, angelica.
Method. — Line the patty-pans with short paste, brush the edges lightly
over with beaten egg or water, and sprinkle with castor sugar. Fill
"them with jam, and bake in a moderately hot oven from 10 to 15
minutes. Roll the puff-paste out to about £ of an inch or less in thick-
ness, and stamp out some rings fully \ an inch less in diameter than the
tartlets. Brush them over with milk, turn the wet side on to the castor
sugar, and place on the baking-sheet sugared side upwards. Bake in
a quick oven ; when cold, place the rings of paste on the tartlets, and
fill the centre with cream, stiffly-whipped and sweetened with vanilla
sugar. Place half a glace cherry in the centre of each, and insert a
few strips or leaves of angelica to complete the decoration.
Time. — About i|- hours. Average Cost, is. 4d. to is. 6d. Sufficient
for 8 or 9 tartlets.
i73°. — SAINT DENIS TARTLETS. {Fr. — Tartelettes
a la Saint Denis.)
Ingredients. — Pastry (No. 1667), 2 ozs. of butter, 2 ozs. of castor sugar,
2 ozs. of ground almonds, 1 level tablespoonful of cornflour, 2 yolks
of eggs, 1 white of egg, vanilla essence, raspberry jam.
Method. — Cream the butter and sugar together until thick and smooth,
RECIPES FOR PASTRY
9°9
beat in the yolks of eggs, add the ground almonds, cornflour, a few
drops of vanilla essence, and lastly, the stiffly-whisked white of eggr
Line 12 tartlet moulds with paste, spread a small teaspoonful of jam
at the bottom of each one, fill them with the preparation, and fix 2
narrow strips of paste across the top. Bake in a moderate oven from
15 to 20 minutes.
Time. — To bake, from 15 to 20 minutes. Average Cost, Sd., exclusive
of the paste. Sufficient for 12 tartlets.
Icings, Fillings, Etc.
1731. — ALMOND PASTE. (Fr.— Pate d’Amandes.)
Ingredients. — 4- ozs. of ground almonds, 6 ozs. of loaf sugar, 1 white of
egg, lemon-juice.
Method. — Put the sugar, with 1 tablespoonful of water, and a teaspoon-
ful of lemon juice into a. stewpan, bring to the boil, skim well, and boil
to the “ ball degree ” ( see page 1070, No. 2264). Pour the syrup on to
the ground almonds, add about the white of egg, mix well together,
and use as required.
Time. — 10 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. Sufficient for one small cake.
1732. — CHOCOLATE ICING. (Fr.— Glace au
Chocolat.)
Ingredients. — 3 ozs. of chocolate, \ a lb. of icing sugar, \ a gill of water.
Method. — Break the chocolate into small pieces, put them into a small
stewpan with the water, and stir by the side of the fire until dissolved.
Add the icing sugar, stir until well mixed and smooth, then use as re-
quired.
Average Cost. — 6d.
1733. — COFFEE BUTTER. (Fr. — Beurre au Moka.)
Ingredients. — |- of a lb. of fresh butter, ^ of a lb. of castor sugar, 1
yolk of egg, coffee essence.
Method. — Cream the sugar and yolk of egg for about 10 minutes, add
coffee essence to taste, and the softened butter gradually. Work until
thoroughly mixed and smooth, let it remain on ice until firm, stir again,
then use for decorating, by means of a paper cornet, or bag and forcer.
Average Cost. — 6d.
9io
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1734. — COFFEE ICING. (Fr.— Glace au Cafe.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of icing sugar or fine castor sugar, 1 gill of cold
water, 1 dessertspoonful of coffee essence.
Method. — Put the sugar and water into a stewpan, stir by the side
of the fire until it reaches boiling point, and simmer for 4 or 5 minutes.
Pour the syrup into a basin, add the coffee essence, and stir until the
icing becomes less transparent as it cools. If used before it reaches this
point it will have a dull appearance.
Average Cost. — 6d.
1735. — ORANGE ICING. (Fr. — Glace d’Orange.)
Ingredients. — 6 ozs. of icing sugar, the juice of 1 orange.
Method. — Put the sugar and orange-juice into a small stewpan, stir
until well-mixed and smooth, and pour an equal portion over the top
of each tartlet.
Time. — ij hours. Average Cost, is., exclusive of the paste. Sufficient
for 10 or 12 tartlets.
1736. — ROYAL ICING. (Fr.— Glace Royal.)
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of icing sugar, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, 1
white of egg.
Method. — Put the white of egg into a basin, add the sugar gradually
and work well with a wooden spoon. When the preparation presents
a smooth, white brilliant appearance add the lemon-juice, and use as
required.
Average Cost. — qd.
1737. — TRANSPARENT ICING. (Fr.— Glace trans-
parente.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of loaf sugar, \ of gill of warm water.
Method. — Put the sugar and water into a sugar boiler or stewpan, let
it dissolve, then bring to the boil and simmer for about 5 minutes, or
until a thick syrup is formed (23d0 Fahr. on a saccharometer). Pour
into a basin, stir until almost cold and setting, then use as required.
Average Cost. — 3d.
1738. — CONFECTIONER’S CUSTARD. (Fr.— Creme
Patissiere.)
Ingredients. — 4 yolks of eggs, \\ pints of milk, 4 ozs. of castor sugar,
J- an oz. of potato flour, 3 sheets of French gelatine, flavouring essence.
Method.- — Mix the cornflour smoothly with a little milk, boil the re-
mainder, add the sugar and blended cornflour, boil for 2 minutes, then
pour over the beaten yolks of eggs, stirring meanwhile. Return to
the stewpan and stir by the side of the fire until the mixture thickens,
then add the gelatine, previously dissolved in 1 tablespoonful of water,
and the flavouring essence, and use as required.
Average Cost. — pd.
RECIPES FOR PASTRY
911
1739. — FRANGIPAN CREAM. (Fr. — Creme-
Frangipanne.)
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of fine sifted flour, J of a lb. of castor sugar, 2 ozs.
of butter, 4 eggs, 1 pint of milk, flavouring essence.
Method. — Put 4 yolks and 2 whites of eggs, the flour, sugar, and a
little pinch of salt into a small stewpan, stir and cook by the side of
the fire until well mixed, then add the milk gradually. When per-
fectly smooth, stir in the butter, cook gently for ab’out 10 minutes,
then turn into a basin, flavour to taste, and when cool use as required
for filling tartlets, etc.
Average Cost. — iod.
1740- MINCEMEAT.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of finely-chopped suet, 1 lb. of currants washed
and picked, 1 lb. of raisins stoned and quartered, 1 lb. of chopped
apples, 1 lb. of castor sugar, l lb. of sultanas, ^ of a lb. of shredded
mixed candied peel, 2 lemons, \ a gill of brandy, \ a saltspoonful each
of nutmeg, mace and cinnamon.
Method. — Pare the lemons thinly, simmer the rinds in a little water
until perfectly tender, then pound them or rub them through a fine
sieve. Mix all the ingredients well together, press into a jar, cover
closely, and keep in a cool dry place for at least 1 month before using.
Average Cost. — 6d. per lb.
1741- — MINCEMEAT. (Another Method.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of finely-chopped apples, 1 lb. of currants, cleaned
and picked, of a lb. of finely-chopped suet, f of a lb. of raisins, stoned
and quartered, J of a lb. of castor sugar, I of a lb. of finely-shredded
mixed candied peel, the grated rind and juice of 2 lemons, \ a teaspoon-
ful of cinnamon, ground cloves, mace and nutmeg, mixed in equal pro-
portions, of a pint of brandy.
Method. — Mix all these ingredients well together, press them into a
jar, cover closely and store in a cool dry place until required. It should
be kept for 1 month at least before being used.
Average Cost. — About 6d. per lb.
1742. — MINCEMEAT (Economical.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of chopped apples, f of a lb. of currants, washed
and picked, \ a lb. of raisins, stoned and quartered, a lb. of finely-
chopped suet, -J- a lb. of castor sugar, 2 ozs. of chopped candied peel,
the juice and grated rind of 1 lemon, 1 saltspoonful of grated nutmeg.
Method. — Mix all these ingredients well together, and keep in closely
covered jars in a cool, dry place, until required.
Average Cost. — 6d.
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
912
1743 — MINCEMEAT, AMERICAN RECIPE FOR.
Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of finely-chopped cooked fresh beef-tongue, 1 lb.
of finely-chopped suet, 2 lbs. of sugar, 2 lbs. of currants, washed and
dried, 2 lbs. of raisins, stoned and quartered, 1 lb. of shredded candied
citron, 3 lbs. of chopped apples, the finely-grated rind of 4 lemons, \ of a
teaspoonful each of ground allspice, cloves, cinnamon and nutmeg,
1 teaspoonful of salt, 1 teaspoonful of black pepper, \ pint of brandy,
pints of sherry, 1 pint of sweet cider.
Method. — Mix all the ingredients, except the apples and cider. Let
it remain in covered jars for 3 days, then add the cider and apples, and
use.
Average Cost, — About iod. per lb.
1744. — MINCEMEAT, LEMON.
Ingredients. — 2 large lemons, 6 large apples, \ a lb. of suet, 1 lb. of
currants, 4- a lb. of sugar, 2 ozs. of candied lemon-peel, 1 oz. of citron,
mixed spice to taste.
Method. — Pare the lemons, squeeze them, and boil the peel until it
is tender enough to mash. Add to the mashed lemon-peel the apples,
which should be pared, cored and minced, the chopped suet, currants,
sugar, sliced peel and spice. Strain the lemon-j uice to these ingredients,
stir the mixture well, and put it in a jar with a close-fitting lid. Stir
occasionally, and in a week or 10 days the mincemeat will be ready for
use.
Average Cost. — is. yd.
1745. — VANILLA SUGAR. ( Fr . — Sucre a la Vanille.)
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of castor sugar, 1 oz. of vanilla pod.
Method. — Cut the pod into small pieces, pound with the sugar in a
mortar until smooth, then rub through a fine sieve. Unless kept in a
perfectly air-tight tin, the sugar will lose much of its flavour.
Average Cost. — 2s. 6d.
PUDDINGS, SOUFFLES,
OMELETS AND FRITTERS
CHAPTER XXXII
To avoid repetition in the recipes for these, the application of the
principles of boiling, steaming, baking and frying such preparations will
be here briefly described. Success in preparing dishes of this class
depends more on suitable proportions, manipulation, and proper
application of heat than on the materials themselves, which are usually
of a simple character. Although the terms suet, milk, batter and
bread may be used to describe briefly a large proportion of the
puddings which form part of the daily fare of the masses, there is a
large number of sweet dishes that cannot be included in this classi-
fication, but individual recipes to which general remarks do not
apply will be described in detail.
Each recipe in the following chapter gives, as nearly as possible,
the exact amount of the ingredients which comprise the dish. Such
terms as “ well buttered mould,” “ creaming,” “ stiffly-whipped
or whisked ” will be explained in the present chapter, for the con-
venience of the uninitiated.
Preparaf on of Moulds ani Basins. -When the pudding to be cooked
is substantial in character, the mould, basin or dish may be greased
with a little fresh butter or fat; but moulds intended for light puddings,
souffles or omelets should be well coated with cool clarified butter,
using a small brush for this purpose.
Chopping Su3t. — Either beef or mutton suet may be used for puddings:
paste made with the former is lighter, mutton suet is less rich, and
its flavour is not always liked. To prepare suet for use, remove all
skin, shred or cut it down in very thin flakes, and chop it finely.
During the process sprinkle it liberally with some of the flour or
breadcrumbs; or, when making mincemeat, which contains neither
of these ingredients, use some of the sugar for the purpose. Chop-
ping should be done with a large sharp knife held in the right hand,
'raising and lowering the handle quickly, while the fingers of the left
hand hold the point of the blade, and keep it pressed firmly to the
board.
913
914
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Creaming Butter and Sugar, or Yolks of Eggs and Sugar. — The term
“ creaming ” by no means describes the process by which butter and
sugar, or yolks of eggs and sugar are amalgamated. Butter and sugar
are pressed by means of a wooden spoon against the sides of a basin
until the friction has softened the butter, and the ingredients are then
stirred vigorously, keeping the bowl of the spoon constantly pressed
against the sides or bottom of the basin, not alternately raised and
lowered as in beating. In cold weather the butter may first be slightly
warmed, but it must not be allowed to melt. Yolks of eggs and sugar
are simply stirred together until thick and creamy.
Preparation of Dried Fruits. — As currants do not keep for any length
of time they should never be bought in large quantities. They
may be cleaned with a little flour oir a sieve, but some cooks pour
boiling water over them to plump them, and afterwards drain and
dry them thoroughly. In either case, they must be dropped on a
plate a few at a time to detect the stones. Sultanas should be cleaned
with a little flour on a sieve and have the stalks removed, and
Valencia raisins must be halved and stoned.
Boiled Puddings. — To ensure perfect cooking, the following rules,
which apply equally to rich or plain, large or small puddings, must be
observed.
1. The mould or basin must be perfectly dry and well coated with
butter or fat.
2. The pudding must completely fill the mould or basin.
3. A scalded and floured cloth should be tied securely over the top
of the basin, but rather loosely round a roly-poly or other pudding
not boiled in a basin.
4. The water must be boiling rapidly when the pudding is put in.
5. The water must completely cover the pudding, and be deep
enough to float those boiled in cloths, otherwise a plate or saucer must
be placed at the bottom of the pan.
6. As the water boils away, boiling water must be added.
7. The pudding must stand a few minutes before being turned out,
in order that some of the steam may escape, and thus cause the
pudding to shrink and less liable to break.
Steamed Puddings. — Puddings steamed over water are lighter than
when immersed in it, but they cook more slowly. A quicker method,
and one that gives practically the same results, is to stand the pudding
in a saucepan containing boiling water to about half the depth of the
mould or basin, the surrounding water being frequently replenished
with more boiling water. A pudding to be steamed should not more
than three-quarters fill the basin; and two folds of paper, made water-
proof by being rubbed with butter or fat, should cover the top instead
of a cloth, which prevents the pudding rising.
Milk Puddings. — Milk puddings usually have the addition of eggs or
some granular or powdered farinaceous substance, or they may consist
RECIPES FOR PUDDINGS
9J5
of milk, eggs, and a farinaceous grain or powder. The three variefles
would be represented by a custard pudding, a plain rice pudding, and
a cornflour or semolina pudding made with eggs. A well-made milk
pudding is a palatable and usually acceptable dish, and being so easily
made it is difficult to understand why they are nearly always served
in too dry or too liquid a condition, when the mean is so easily obtained.
If a custard pudding be allowed to boil it becomes watery; if cooked
too quickly, without actually boiling, it is full of holes. When the oven
is too hot the pudding may be kept below boiling point by placing the
dish containing it in a tin of water, to which must be1 added, from time
to time, a little cold water to prevent it boiling. Rice pudding, or
any farinaceous pudding without eggs, should first be put into a hot
oven for a short time to bring the milk quickly to near boiling point,
but afterwards they should be cooked as slowly as possible, in order
that the grains may have ample time to swell. It is better to simmer
small grains like ground rice, semolina, and fine sago in a saucepan,
preferably a double one, until the substance is well-cooked. Eggs
are easily digested when lightly cooked, but become insoluble when
over-cooked, and for this reason they should not be added to the
farinaceous preparation until it is fully cooked, and then io minutes
baking in a moderate oven is all that is necessary to set the egg and
brown the surface of the pudding. For ordinary purposes skimmed
milk may be used, but the fat or cream of which it has been deprived
should be replaced by a little butter or finely-chopped suet, the pro-
portion of the latter being -J- a tablespoonful to i pint of milk.
Batter. — Whether the batter is intended for a pudding or fritters,
certain points need careful attention.
1. It must be mixed as smoothly as possible, and this is effected by
not adding much liquid until all the lumps of flour have been beaten
out.
2. It should be well beaten to get the air in.
3. It should stand for at least 1 hour in order that the flour grains
may swell and burst and ferment. The batter may be made more easily
digestible by prolonging this process of fermentation.
4. It is usually cooked, i.e. fried, at a high temperature.
Fritters. — To successfully fry anything coated with batter the fat
must be hot enough to immediately harden the surface of the beignets
or fritters, and thus prevent it soaking in and making them greasy,
and yet it must not be sufficiently hot to brown them before they are
crisp and well-cooked (see Notes on Frying, p. 412).
Souffles and Souffl6-Omelets. Moulds or tins in which souffles are
to be steamed or baked should, after being well coated with cool
clarified butter, have a band of 3 or 4 folds of buttered paper tied
round their rim to support the souffle when it rises above the level of
the tin. All these preparations should be made beforehand, so that
the mixture may not have to stand and possibly lose some of its light-
gi6
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
ness. The success of souffles and souffle-omelets depends largely
upon the whites of the eggs being whisked to a proper degree of
stiffness. When the eggs are fresh, all that is necessary to ensure
this is careful separation from the yolks, the addition of a pinch of
salt, and that the air whipped in is as cold as possible. Another
important factor is the cooking. Souffles are lighter when steamed
than when baked, but great care is needed to keep the water surround-
ing them at simmering point and yet prevent it actually boiling.
Souffles should be served as soon as they are done, for if over-cooked or
allowed to stand, they lose some of their lightness. They should be
baked in a hot oven, and served as quickly as possible in the dish or
dishes in which they are cooked.
Puddings
1746. -ALMA PUDDING.
Ingredients. — 8 ozs. of flour, 6 ozs. of castor sugar, 4 ozs. of butter,
2 ozs. of currants, 2 ozs. of sultanas, 4 eggs, 1 teaspoonful of baking
powder, the grated rind of 1 lemon.
Method. — Clean and pick the currants and sultanas. Cream the
butter and sugar together until thick and white, then beat in the eggs,
and add the rest of the ingredients. Have ready a well-buttered
mould or basin, pour in the mixture, and steam for 2 hours. Serve
with a suitable sauce.
Time. — 2\ hours. Average Cost, about is. Sufficient for 5 or 6
persons.
1747. — ALMOND CASTLES.
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of ground almonds, 2 ozs. of butter, 1 tablespoon-
ful of castor sugar, 1 tablespoonful of milk, 1 tablespoonful of brandy,
2 eggs.
Method. — Cream the butter and sugar together, stir in the yolks of
eggs, the milk and brandy, and beat well. Whip the whites stiffly,
and lightly add them to the rest of the ingredients. Put into well-
buttered dariol-moulds or small cups, and either bake or steam gently
for 30 or 35 minutes. Serve with custard sauce.
Time. — From 45 to 50 minutes. Average Cost, 7d. to 8d., exclusive
of the brandy. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
The Husks of Almonds. — In the environs of Alicante, the husks of almonds are ground to a powder
and are used as an ingredient in the manufacture of common soap, the large quantity of alkaline
principle they contain rendering them suitable for this purpose. It is said that in some parts of France,
where almonds are extensively grown, horses and mules are fed on the green and dry husks ; but, to pre-
vent any evil consequences arising from this practice, the husks are mixed with chopped straw or
oats.
RECIPES FOR PUDDINGS
giy
1748. — ALMOND PUDDING, BAKED. (JFr — Pouding
aux Amandes.)
Ingredients. — 1 penny roll, 2 ozs. of ground almonds, 1 oz. of butter,
x oz. of castor sugar, 1 pint of milk, 3 eggs, the grated rind of 1 lemon,
a good pinch of cinnamon.
Method. — Butter a piedish and line the bottom with thin, buttered
slices of roll. Mix the almonds, lemon rind and cinnamon together
and put % into the piedish. Cover with thin slices of roll, then add the
rest of the almond mixture, and again cover with slices of roll. Boil
the milk, and add to it the sugar; beat the eggs well, then pour on to
them the hot, not boiling, milk, and stir well. Now add the milk,
etc., to the rest of the ingredients in the piedish, but in tablespoonfuls,
to avoid floating the slices of roll. Cover the pudding and let it stand
for \ an hour, then bake it gently for about an hour.
Time. — if to 2 hours. Average Cost, 9d. to iod. Sufficient for 5 or 6
persons.
1749. — ALMOND PUDDING, BAKED. (Another
Method.)
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of ground almonds, 3 ozs. of butter, 2 ozs. of sugar,
2 ozs. of cake crumbs (stale sponge cakes serve), 1 pint of milk, the
juice and grated rind of f a lemon, 4 eggs, puff paste.
Method. — Cream the butter and sugar together, add the eggs, beating
each one in separately, the cake crumbs, lemon rind and j nice and almonds.
Boil the milk, pour it over the rest of the ingredients, stirring all the time,
return to the saucepan, and stir over the fire until the mixture thickens.
Have ready a piedish with the edges lined with paste, pour in the mix-
ture, and bake gently until brown and set. Serve either hot or cold.
Time. — 20 to 30 minutes to bake. Average Cost, about is. 2d.,
exclusive of the paste. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
Uses of Sweet Almond. — The kernels of the sweet almond are used either in a green or ripe state
and as an article for dessert. Into cookery, confectionery, perfumery and medicine, they largely
enter, and in domestic economy should always be used in preference to bitter almonds, as the
kernels do not contain any prussic acid, although it is found in the leaves, flowers and banc of the
tree. When young and green they are preserved in sugar, like apricots. They furnish almond oil,
and the farinaceous matter which is left after the oil is expressed forms the pate d'amandes of per-
fumers, while the oil forms the basis of kalydor, macassar oil, and many other articles of a similar
kind vended by perfumers. In medicine it is considered a nutritive, laxative, and an emollient.
1750. — ALMOND PUDDING, BAKED (Another
Method.)
Ingredients. — 2 ozs. of ground almonds, 1 oz. of castor sugar, ^ of an
oz. of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, 2 tablespoonfuls of brandy
(milk may be substituted), 2 eggs.
Method. — Thoroughly beat the eggs; add to them the almonds,
sugar, cream and brandy, and mix wdl. Melt the butter, add it to the
918
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
rest of the ingredients, pour into a buttered piedish, and bake for about
20 minutes in a moderate oven.
Time. — From 35 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, about 9d. Sufficient
for 3 persons.
1751. — ALMOND PUDDINGS, SMALL.
Ingredients. — £ of a lb. of ground almonds, 2 eggs, 1 tablespoonful of
castor sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, 2 ozs. of butter.
Method. — Cream the butter and sugar together, stir in the yolks of
eggs, the almonds, and the cream. Whip the whites to a stiff froth,
add them lightly to the rest of the ingredients, pour into buttered
dariol moulds or small cups, and steam or bake from 25 to 30 minutes.
Serve with a suitable sauce.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 9d. to iod., for this quantity.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
1752. — ANGEL PUDDING.
The above name is sometimes given to French pancakes, the recipe
for which is given on p. 949.
1753. — APPLE AMBER PUDDING.
Ingredients. — 6 large apples, 3 ozs. of brown sugar, 2 ozs. of butter, 3
eggs, 1 lemon, cherries, strips of angelica, short paste, or puff paste
trimmings, castor sugar.
Method. — Line the edge of a piedish with thin strips of paste about
3 inches wide, and decorate the edge with overlapping leaves or small
rounds of pastry, which must be securely fixed by means of white of
egg. Peel and slice the apples, stew them gently with the butter,
sugar, and lemon-rind until tender, then pass through a fine sieve, and
add the yolks of eggs. Pour the mixture into the piedish, bake gently
for 20 minutes, then pile the stiffly-whisked whites of eggs on the top.
Dredge liberally with castor sugar, decorate with cherries and angelica,
and replace in the oven until the whites of eggs harden and acquire
a little colour. Serve either hot or cold.
Time. — \ an hour, to bake the pudding. Average Cost, about is. 3d.,
in addition to cost of paste. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
1754. — APPLES, BAKED.
Ingredients. — 6 apples, 1 white of egg, castor sugar, jam or jelly.
Method. — Pare and core the apples, keeping them whole; roll up an
apple-paring tightly, and place it in the centre of each apple. Brush
over with white of egg, and put aside until it dries; then re-coat, sprinkle
with castor sugar, put the apples into a piedish, cover with a greased
RECIPES FOR PUDDINGS
9T9
paper and bake in a slow oven until tender. Be careful not to over-
cook, or they may break. When done, remove the apple-paring, and
fill the cavity with blackberry or black currant jelly, blackberry or
raspberry jam, or whatever may be preferred: a small piece of butter
and some brown sugar is liked by many.
Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, 4d. to 6d., without the jam.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
11755. — APPLE CHARLOTTE. (Fr.— Charlotte de
Pommes.)
Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of good cooking apples, 4 ozs. of brown sugar, or
to taste, 1 oz. of butter, the rind of 1 lemon. For lining the mould:
thin slices of bread, oiled butter.
Method. — Peel, core and slice the apples, put them into a stewpan
with the sugar and 1 tablespoonful of water, and cook until tender.
When the apples are reduced to a soft smooth pulp, add the butter
and lemon-rind, and sweeten to taste. Meanwhile, take a plain souffle
mould, and cover the bottom with a round of bread, previously cut
in quarters and dipped into the melted butter. If a pretty dish is
desired, the sides of the mould should be lined with rounds of bread,
of f-inch diameter, arranged overlapping each other; but as 3 or 4 tiers
may be required this method occupies considerable time. It may be
more quickly lined with long narrow strips the size of Savoy biscuits,
these may also overlap each other, or they may be laid flat against
the tin. Each piece of bread must be dipped into the oiled butter
before being used. When the mould is ready, put in the apple pulp,
cover the top with a round of bread, and bake in a moderate oven for
about 30 minutes.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, is. to is. 2d. Sufficient for
6 or 7 persons.
1756.— APPLE CHARLOTTE. (Another Way.)
(. Fr . — Charlotte de Pommes.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of apples, 3 ozs. of finely-chopped suet, 3 ozs. of
white breadcrumbs, 2 ozs. of brown sugar, \ a lemon (rind only), 1
tablespoonful of browned breadcrumbs.
Method. — Peel, core and cut the apples into thick slices. Grease a
piedish, and coat it thickly with browned breadcrumbs ; mix together
the suet and breadcrumbs, and grate the lemon-rind. Fill the pie-
dish with alternate layers of apple and mixed suet and crumbs, letting
the bottom and top layers be rather thick ones of breadcrumbs : the
lemon-rind should be mixed with the sugar and sprinkled on each
layer of apple. Cover with a double layer of greased paper, and bake
in a moderate oven for about i|- hours. When ready, loosen the
edges with a knife, and invert on to a hot dish.
930
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Tims. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, yd. or 8d. Sufficient for 5 or 6
persons.
1 757- -APPLE CHARLOTTE. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — Apples, thin slices of bread and butter, brown sugar,
1 lemon.
Method. — Peel, core and slice the apple, place a layer on the bottom
of a buttered piedish, sprinkle with sugar, lemon-rind and lemon-juice,
and cover with thin slices of bread and butter. Repeat until the dish
is full, letting bread form the top layer. Cover with a greased paper,
bake from f to 1 hour, then turn out of the dish and dredge well
with castor sugar.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 6d. or 8d., for one of medium size.
1758. — APPLE DUMPLINGS, BAKED.
Ingredients. — -J- a lb. of short paste ( see Pastry, No. 1668, or 1669), 5 or 6
apples, according to size, 1 tablespoonful of currants, a little moist sugar.
Method. — Peel and core the apples and fill the centre with currants.
Roll out the paste thinly, and cut it into rounds nearly large enough
to cover the apples. Place one in the centre of each round, wet the
edges of the paste, and press gently to the top of the apple. Put them
join downwards on a baking-sheet, and bake them 20 to 30 minutes
in a moderately hot oven. When nearly done, brush lightly over
with water, sprinkle over with moist sugar, and return to the oven to
finish baking. Serve either hot or cold.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, yd. to 9d. Sufficient for 5 or 6
persons.
Uses of (he Apple. This well known fruit forms a very important article of food. It is much
used in pies and puddings, furnishes several delicacies, such as sauces, marmalades and jellies,
and is much esteemed as a dessert fruit. When flattened in the form of round cakes and baked in
ovens, they are called beefmgs ; and large quantities are annually dried in the sun in America as well
as in Normandy, and stored for use during winter, when they may be stewed or made into pies. In
a roasted state they are remarkably wholesome. In putrid and malignant fevers, when used with
the juice of lemons and currants, they are considered highly efficacious.
1759. — APPLE DUMPLINGS, BOILED.
Ingredients. — |- of a lb. of suet paste (No. 1670, or 1671), 6 apples, 6
cloVes, moist sugar.
Method. — Pare and core the apples, fill the cavities with sugar, and
add a clove. Roll the paste and cut rounds large enough to rather
more than f- cover the apples. Place one on each round of paste,
slightly wet the edges, and press them gently to the top of the apples
where they must be completely joined. Tie each dumpling in the
corner of a well-floured pudding cloth, put them into boiling water,
and boil gently from 40 to 50 minutes.
Time. — To make and cook, from 1^ to if hours. Average Cost, 9d.
each. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
RECIPES FOR PUDDINGS
921
1760. — APPLES, LEXINGTON STYLE.
(Fr. — Pommes a la Lexington.)
Ingredients. — 6 sour cooking apples, 1 oz. of flour, 1 oz. of castor
sugar, x egg, cake crumbs, ground cinnamon, preserved pineapple or
pineapple jam, fruit, syrup, frying-fat.
Method. — Pare, core and steam the apples until half-cooked, and let
them become cold. Then mix the flour and sugar together, roll each
apple in the mixture, brush them carefully with egg and coat with cake
crumbs, then fry in hot fat until nicely browned. Fill the centre with
finely-chopped pineapple or pineapple jam, pour hot pineapple syrup
round the dish, and serve.
Time. — From i£ to i£ hours. Average Cost, is. to is. 3d. Sufficient
for 5 or 6 persons.
1761. — APPLE PUDDING, BAKED. (Fr.— Ponding
de Pommes.)
Ingredients. — 6 sour cooking apples, \ a pint of breadcrumbs, 2 or 3
tablespoonfuls sugar, 1 oz. of butter, 1 egg.
Method. — Pare, core and cut the apples into slices, put them into a
stewpan with the sugar and 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of water, cook until
tender, then stir in the butter and well-beaten egg. Coat the bottom
and sides of a well-buttered piedish thickly with breadcrumbs, add the
apple pulp, cover with the remainder of the breadcrumbs, put a few
pieces of butter on the top, and bake gently for about f- of an hour,
keeping the dish covered with greased paper to prevent the surface
from becoming too brown.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, pd. to iod. Sufficient for 3 or 4
persons.
Constituents of the Apple. — All apples contain sugar, malic acid, or the acid of apples ; mucilage,
or gum ; woody fibre and water ; together with some aroma, on which their peculiar flavour depends.
The hard acid kinds are unwholesome if eaten raw ; but by the process of cooking, a great deal of
this acid is decomposed and converted into sugar. The sweet and mellow kinds form a valuable
addition to dessert. A great part of the acid juice is converted into sugar as the fruit ripens, and even
after it is gathered, by a natural process termed maturation ; but when apples decay, the sugar is
changed into a bitter principle, and the mucilage becomes mouldy and offensive. Old cheese has a
remarkable effect in improving the apple when eaten, probably from the volatile alkali or ammonia
of the cheese neutralizing the acid of the apple.
1762. — APPLE PUDDING, BAKED. (Another
Method.)
Ingredients. — 5 medium sized apples, 3 tablespoonfuls of flour, 2
tablespoonfuls of finely-chopped suet, 1 pint of milk, 2 eggs, a little
nutmeg, a good pinch of salt.
Method. — Make a batter of the flour, salt, eggs and milk ( see York-
shire Pudding, No. 1930). Pare the apples, cut them into quarters and
remove the core. Place them in a piedish, sprinkle on the suet, pour
922
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
in the batter, grate a little nutmeg on the top, and bake in a moderately
hot oven for i hour. Serve with sugar.
Time. — 1-£- hours. Average Cost, 8d. or 9d. Sufficient for 5 or 6
persons.
To preserve Apples. — The best mode of preserving apples is to carry them at once to the
fruit room, where they should be put upon shelves covered with white paper, after gently wiping
each. The room should be dry and well aired, but should not admit the sun. The finer and
larger kinds of fruit should not be allowed to touch each other, but should be kept separate. For
this purpose, a number of shallow trays should be provided, supported by racks or stands above
each other. In very cold frosty weather the room should be warmed.
1763. — APPLE PUDDING, BOILED. (Fr.—. Pouding
de Pommes.)
Ingredients. — 12 ozs. of flour, 6 ozs. of suet, 1 teaspoonful of baking-
powder, 2 lbs. of apples, 2 tablespoonfuls of moist sugar, 6 cloves, if
liked.
Method. — Peel, core and cut the apples into rather thick slices. Make the
paste as directed in Recipe No. 1670, or 1671. Cut off rather more than a
1 of the paste for the lid, roll out the remainder, and with it line the
basin, previously well greased. Put in half the fruit, then the sugar,
intersperse the cloves, cover with the remainder of the fruit and. add
\ gill cold water. Roll out the rest of the pastry to the size of the top
of the basin, moisten the edges slightly, and join them carefully to the
edges of the pastry lining the basin. If the pudding is to be boiled,
cover the top with a well-floured cloth; if steamed, 2 folds of greased
paper may be used. Cook from 2.\ to 3 hours.
Time. — 3 to 3-^- hours. Average Cost, is. to is. 3d. Sufficient for 7 or 8
persons.
1764. — APPLE PUDDING, BOILED.
Ingredients. — of a lb. of bread-crumbs, \ of a lb. of suet (finely-
chopped), ^ of a lb. of apples, J of a lb. of moist sugar, 2 eggs, -j- of a pint
of milk, a good pinch of salt, a good pinch of nutmeg.
Method. — Pare, core and chop the apples coarsely. Mix all the dry
ingredients together, add the eggs, previously beaten, and the milk,
and mix well. Let the mixture stand 1 hour for the bread to soak,
then if not sufficiently moist for the mixture to drop readily from the
spoon, add a little more milk. Pour into a well-greased basin, and steam
2 hours. Serve with a suitable sauce.
Xime. — Altogether, 2^ hours. Average Cost, 8d. or gd. Sufficient for
5 or 6 persons.
1763. — APPLES AND RICE. ( Fr . Pommes au Riz.)
Ingredients. — 4 or 5 apples, i|- pints of milk, 2 tablespoonsful of rice,
1 heaped tablespoonful of sugar, 1 oz. of butter, lemon-rind and other
flavouring, a good pinch of salt, raspberry jam, or sugar and butter.
RECIPES FOR PUDDINGS
923
Method. — Wash the rice, put it into a saucepan with the salt, lemon-
rind and milk, simmer until the greater part of the milk is absorbed
and the rice becomes tender, then stir in the butter and sugar, and
remove the lemon-rind. Peel and core the apples, place them in a
piedish, fill the cavities with raspberry jam or a little butter and
sugar. Fill the spaces between the apples with rice, and bake in a slow
oven until the apples are tender, but not broken.
Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, 8d. to iod. Sufficient for 4 or
S persons.
1766. — APPLES AND SAGO. (Fr. — Pommes au Sagou.)
Ingredients. — 4 or 6 cooking apples, 1 pint of water, 2 tablespoonfuls of
moist sugar, 1 tablespoonful of fine sago, the rind and juice of \ a
lemon, a few drops of carmine or cochineal.
Method. — Peel and core the apples, keeping them whole. Boil the
water, sprinkle in the sago, stir and eook until clear. Now add the
apples, sugar, lemon-rind and juice, and simmer very gently until the
apples are tender; then remove them, place them in a deep dish, add
a few drops of cochineal to the syrup, and pour it over the apples.
Time. —From 40 to 60 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. to 8d. Sufficient
for 4 or 5 persons.
1767. — APPLE SNOWBALLS. (Fr. — Pommes ala Neige.)
Ingredients. — Apples. To each apple allow x tablespoonful of rice,
\ a pint of milk, or milk and water mixed, a clove, 1 teaspoonful of moist
sugar.
Method. — Simmer the rice in the milk until all the milk is absoi'bed
(a good pinch of salt should be added to the rice and milk, and, if liked.
1 tablespoonful of sugar to every pint of milk). Pare and core the
apples, keeping them whole, fill the centre of each with sugar, and put
in a clove, if liked. Cover with the rice, and tie each ball in the corner
of a pudding cloth. Put into boiling water, and boil gently from 45 to
60 minutes. Serve with sugar.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, i|-d. to 2d. each. Allow 1
to each person.
1768. -APPLES WITH CUSTARD SAUCE.
Ingredients. — 6 apples, l'aspberry jam. For the custard: £ a pint of
milk, 2 yolks of eggs, 1 white of egg, 1 dessertspoonful of sugar.
Method. — Pare and core the apples, keeping them whole; roll up an
apple paring tightly, and place it in the centi'e of each apple. Put them
in a deep baking-dish, barely cover the bottom of the dish with cold
water, place on the top an inverted dish or piedish to keep in the steam,
924
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
and bake gently until tender. Lift carefully on to a hot dish, remove
the apple parings, fill the cavity with jam, and pour the custard round.
(See Custard Sauce, No. 332.)
Time. — About 40 minutes. Average Cost, 8d. or 9d. Sufficient for
4 or 5 persons.
1769. — APPLE SNOW. (Fr. — Pommes a la Neige.)
Ingredients. — 6 sour cooking apples, 4 ozs. of sugar, or to taste,
yolks of 4 eggs, 2 whites of eggs, the grated rind of \ a lemon, vanilla
pod, \ a pint of milk, 1 tablespoonful of cream.
Method.- — Pare, core and slice the apples, put them into a stewpan with
the lemon-rind, 2 ozs. of sugar and a little water. Cook until tender,
rub them through a fine sieve, let the puree cool, then stir in the cream.
Simmer the milk and vanilla pod together until sufficiently flavoured,
then remove the pod (dry it and place in castor sugar for future use),
add sugar to taste, stir in the well-beaten yolks of eggs, and cook by
the side of the fire until they thicken, stirring meanwhile. Now put
the apple puree* into a buttered piedish, pour the custard on the
top, and cover with the stiffly whisked whites of eggs. Dredge liberally
with castor sugar, and bake in a moderate oven until the surface hardens
and acquires a little colour. Serve hot or cold. Time. — About 1
hour. Average Cost, is. id. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
1770. — APRICOT PUDDING, BAKED. (Fr.— Pouding
d’Abricots.)
Ingredients. — 1 tin or bottle of apricots, f of a pint of fresh bread-
crumbs, 3tablespoonfuls of moist sugar, 1 pint of milk, 3 eggs, the juice of
1 lemon, and, if liked, a glass of sherry, pastry No. 1667, or No. 1668.
Method. — Boil the milk, pour it on the breadcrumbs, and let them soak
for \ an hour. Rub the apricots through a hair sieve, add to them
the lemon-juice, sugar, sherry, 3 yolks and 1 white of egg, and mix
well together. Have ready a piedish with the edges lined, as directed
in the recipe for Apple Amber, No. 1676, add the milk and bread-
crumbs to the rest of the ingredients, pour into the piedish, and bake
in a steady oven until set. Whip the whites to a stiff froth, add to
them 1 tablespoonful of castor sugar, and when the pastry is three-
quarters baked, and the apricot mixture set, pile them on the top
of the pudding. The surface should be liberally sprinkled with
castor sugar; and it may also be decorated with strips of crystallized
apricots. Return to the oven, and bake until the meringue acquires
a pale fawn colour. Serve either hot or cold.
Time. — From i-j- to 1} hours. Average Cost, is. 3d. to is. 6d., without
the sherry. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
RECIPES FOR PUDDINGS
925
1771. — ARROWROOT PUDDING, BAKED.
Ingredients. — 1 pint of milk, 1 tablespoonful of arrowroot, 1 table-
spoonful of castor sugar, 3 eggs, a pinch of salt.
Method. — Mix the arrowroot smoothly with a little milk, boil the
remainder and add it to the arrowroot, stirring all the time. Return
to the saucepan and boil gently until it thickens, then cool slightly.
Add the sugar, yolks of eggs, previously well beaten, and stir by the
side of the fire for 2 or 3 minutes. Whip the whites to a stiff froth,
lightly add them to the rest of the ingredients, pour into a well-buttered
piedish, and bake slowly for about \ an hour.
Time. — About 45 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. Sufficient for 4 or 5
persons.
1772. — ARROWROOT PUDDING, STEAMED.
Ingredients. — 1 tablespoonful of arrowroot, 1 tablespoonful of moist
sugar, 1 pint of milk, the grated rind of \ a lemon, 2 eggs.
Method. — Mix the arrowroot smoothly with a little of the milk,
boil the remainder, and pour it over the arrowroot, stirring all the time.
Return to the saucepan, stir and cook over the fire until thick, then
cool slightly, and add the sugar, lemon-rind and eggs, previously well
beaten. Pour into a buttered mould or basin, and steam gently
from i|- to 1 \ hours. Serve with custard, wine, or any other suitable
sauce.
Time. — From i-|- to if hours. Average Cost, sd. to 6d. Sufficient for
4 or 5 persons.
1773. — AUSTRIAN PUDDING. (Fr— Pouding a
l’Austrichienne.)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of raspberries, moist sugar, 4 ozs. of cakecrumbs,
2 ozs. of castor sugar, 2 ozs. of ground almonds, 2 ozs. of glace cherries,
4 eggs, 1 tablespoonful of cream, \ oz. butter.
Method. — Put the raspberries and 1 tablespoonful of moist sugar
into a. jar placed in a saucepan containing boiling water, and half cook
them. Meanwhile work the yolks of the eggs and the castor sugar
together in a basin until thick and creamy, then add the cakecrumbs,
ground almonds, cream, oiled butter, and lastly the stiffly whisked
whites of eggs. When the raspberries are ready, place them with their
juice in a buttered fireproof china souffle dish, cover with the prepara-
tion, decorate with the halved glace cherries, and bake in a moderate
oven for about \ an hour. Serve hot. Raspberries preserved in
bottles may be used when fresh ones are not obtainable.
Time. —From i£ to i-|- hours. Average Cost, is. 9d. Sufficient for 6
or 7 persons.
926 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1774. — BABA WITH RUM SYRUP. (Fr.— Baba au
Rhum.)
Ingredients. — f- of a lb. of flour, \ an oz. of yeast, 2 ozs. of castor sugar,
4 ozs. of butter, i-| ozs. of currants cleaned and picked, ^ of a pint of
ndlk, a good pinch of salt. For the syrup: f of a pint of water, 2 ozs.
of loaf sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls of apricot jam, 1 wine-glassful of rum.
Method. — Dry the flour thoroughly, sieve 4 ozs. of it into a warm, dry
basin, add the salt, and make a well in the centre. Mix the yeast
smoothly with a little warm milk, add it to the flour, knead the prepara-
tion into a smooth dough, then cover with a cloth, and let it rise in a
warm place. Sieve the remainder of the flour into a large basin, make
a well in the centre, and put in the salt, sugar, warmed butter, eggs,
and the remainder of the milk, beat with the hand for 15 minutes,
and cover with a cloth. When the dough has risen to twice its original
size, mix the contents of the 2 basins together, add the currants, and
knead lightly for 15 minutes. Have ready 1 large or 8 small well-
buttered moulds with straight sides, sprinkle the bottom and sides with
a few currants, half fill with dough, stand near the fire until it rises nearly
to the top of the mould, then bake in a moderately hot oven. When
done, turn on to a sieve, and baste well with rum syrup, then place
in a hot dish, pour the syrup over, and serve hot. To make the syrup:
boil the sugar and water together until considerably reduced, then add
the jam, boil for 10 minutes, strain, return to the stewpan, put in the
rum, bring to boiling point, and use as directed.
Time. — About 3 hours. Average Cost, is. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
1775. — BABAS WITH KIRSCH. (Fr.— Babas au
Kirsch.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of fine flour, Jofanoz. of yeast, 8 to 9 ozs. of butter,
1 tablespoonful of currants cleaned, 1 tablespoonful of sultanas cleaned,
1 tablespoonful of castor sugar, 5 eggs, the grated rind of the lemon,
salt. For the syrup: f of a pint of water, 2 ozs. of loaf sugar, kirsch-
wasser to flavour.
Method. — Dry and sieve the flour into a large basin, make a well in the
centre, and add the yeast mixed smoothly with a little tepid water.
Let it stand for about \ an hour, then add the well-creamed butter,
currants, sultanas, sugar, lemon-rind, a good pinch of salt, and the
eggs. Beat the mixture until smooth, then cover with a cloth, and
let it stand until it rises to nearly twice its original size. Have ready
some buttered timbale moulds, half fill them with the preparation,
let them stand until it rises nearly to the top of the moulds, and’ bake
in a moderately hot oven. Meanwhile boil the sugar and water until
the syrup is formed, flavour with kirschwasser, pour it over the babas,
or dip them in it and serve.
Time. — From 2\ to 2\ hours. Average Cost, from 2s. to 2s. 3d. Suffi-
cient for 8 or 10 persons.
RECIPES FOR PUDDINGS 927
1776. — BACHELOR’S PUDDING. {Fr. — Pouding a
la Gargon.)
Ingredients.— 4 ozs. of breadcrumbs, 4 ozs. of currants cleaned and
picked, 4 ozs. of apples weighed after being pared and cored, 2 ozs. of
sugar, 3 eggs, the grated rind of \ a lemon, 1 small teaspoonful of
baking-powder, nutmeg, salt.
Method. — Chop the apples coarsely, add to them the breadcrumbs,
currants, sugar, lemon-rind, a good pinch each of nutmeg and salt,
mix well together, then stir in the well-beaten eggs. Let the mixture
stand for \ an hour, then stir in the baking-powder, add more milk
if the mixture is at all stiff, and turn into a well-greased basin. Steam
or boil about 3 hours, and serve with sweet melted butter sauce
No. 357.
Time. — Altogether, about 3 hours. Average Cost, 8d. Sufficient for
5 or 6 persons.
1777. — BACHELOR’S PUDDING. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 8 ozs. of flour, 4 ozs. of finely-chopped suet, 4 ozs. of
sugar, 2 ozs. of raisins, stoned, 2 ozs. of sultanas, cleaned and picked,
1 egg, 1 teaspoonful of baking-powder, £ of a pint of milk.
Method. — Mix all the dry ingredients together, add the milk and the
egg (previously beaten), and stir well. Put into a well greased piedish,
and bake gently for about 1 ( hours. When ready, turn out of the dish,
dredge well with sugar, and serve hot.
Time. — From if to 2 hours. Average Cost, about 8d. Sufficient for
5 or 6 persons.
1778. — BAKEWELL PUDDING. ( Sec Bakewell Tart,
No. 1684.)
1779. — BANANA PUDDING. (Fr. — Pouding de
Bananes.)
Ingredients. — 2 bananas, 4 ozs. of castor sugar, 4 ozs. of flour, 1 oz. of
butter, a gill of cream or milk, 3 eggs.
Method. — Cream the butter and sugar well together, beat in the yolks
of the eggs separately, stir in the flour, and add the cream or milk,
and the bananas thinly sliced. Whip the whites of the eggs to a stiff
froth, add them lightly to the rest of the ingredients, and pour the
mixture into 1 large or several small well-buttered moulds. Steam1 or
bake a large pudding from 1 to ij hours, or small ones from 30 to 35
minutes. Serve with a fruit syrup or sweet sauce.
Time. — From iC to i-|- hours. Average Cost, 9d. Sufficient for 5 or 6
persons.
928 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1780. — BARONESS PUDDING. (Fr. — Pouding a la
Baronne.)
Ingredients. — f- of a lb. of finely-chopped suet, f of a lb. of flour, f of a
lb. of raisins (stoned), + a pint of milk, a saltspoonful of salt.
Method. — Mix all the dry ingredients together, add the milk and stir
well. Put into a well-greased basin, and boil or steam for about 3
hours. Serve with any suitable sweet sauce, or with a little sugar.
Time. — About 3|- hours. Average Cost, about is. Sufficient for 8 or
9 persons.
1781. — BATTER PUDDING, BAKED.
Ingredients. — 1 pint of milk, 2 eggs, 4 heaped tablespoonfuls of flour,
salt, dripping.
Method. — Put the flour and a good pinch of salt into a basin, make
a well in the centre, break in the eggs, stir, gradually mixing in the flour
from the sides, and add milk by degrees until a thick, smooth batter
is formed. Now beat well for 10 minutes, then add the remainder of the
milk, cover, and let it stand for at least 1 hour. When ready to use,
put a tablespoonful of dripping into a piedish, and while it is heating
give the batter another good beating. Pour into the dish, and bake
in a quick oven for about 35 minutes. Serve with sugar, butter and
sugar, jam or stewed fruit.
Time. — 2 hours. Average Cost, q^-d. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Note. — The batter may also be baked in small cups or on saucers (buttered).
It may be varied by the addition of any kind of fresh or tinned fruit, or
raisins, currants, candied peel, etc.
1782.— BATTER PUDDING, BOILED.
Ingredients. — f to 1 pint of milk, 6 ozs. of flour, 4 eggs, a good pinch of
salt.
Method. — Mix the flour and salt together, and make a well in the
centre of the flour. Beat the eggs thoroughly, strain them into the
flour, and stir gently so that the flour becomes gradually incorporated.
Add the milk a little at a time until the batter has the consistency
of thick cream, then cover, and let it stand for 1 hour. When ready,
pour into a well-buttered basin, cover with a scalded, well-floured
cloth, and boil for about 1^ hours.
Time. — Altogether, about 3 hours. Average Cost, 6d. Sufficient for
5 or 6 persons.
Note. — Boiled batter puddings maybe varied by the addition of either fresh
or dried fruits. They should be placed in the basin, and the batter poured
over them.
RECIPES FOR PUDDINGS
929
1783. — BERLIN PUDDING. (Fr. — Pouding a la Ber-
linoise.)
Ingredients. — 2 ozs. of flour, 2 ozs. of butter, 2 ozs. of castor sugar,
2 ozs. of almonds, 4 eggs, \ a pint of milk (rather less), salt.
Method. — Blanch, peel and shred the almonds finely, then dry them
in a cool oven. Dry and sieve the flour, add to it about half the milk,
and stir vigorously until a smooth batter is formed. Put the remainder
of the milk and the butter into a stewpan, when boiling, add the sugar,
batter, and a good pinch of salt, and stir over the fire until it thickens.
Now let it cool slightly, then beat in each yolk of egg separately, stir
in the almonds, and lastly add the stiffly whipped whites of eggs. Turn
the preparation into 1 large or 8 small well-buttered moulds, and steam
a large pudding from i| to 2 hours, and small ones for about 40 minutes.
Serve with custard sauce or other suitable sweet sauce.
Time. — From 2 to 2\ hours. Average Cost, iod. to is. Sufficient for
4 or 5 persons.
1784. — BETSY PUDDING.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of stale bread, 2 ozs. of finely-chopped suet, 2 ozs.
of sugar, 2 eggs, 2 pints of milk, 8 tablespoonfuls of jam or stewed
fruit.
Method. — Boil the milk, pour it over the bread, cover, and let it stand
for \ an hour, then beat out the lumps with a fork. Add the suet,
sugar, well-beaten eggs, and mix well together. Place a layer of this
preparation in the bottom of a greased piedish, cover thickly with jam
or stewed fruit, add another layer of bread, etc., and repeat until the
dish is full, covering the last addition of jam or fruit rather thickly
with the preparation. Bake in a moderate oven for 1 hour, and serve
hot.
Time. — Altogether, about 2 hours. Average Cost, is. id. Sufficient
for 6 or 7 persons.
1785. — BLACK-CAP PUDDING.
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of flour, 1 oz. of sugar, 1 oz. of currants, cleaned
and picked, \ a pint of milk, 1 egg, 1 good pinch of salt.
Method. — Put the flour and salt into a basin, make a well in the centre
of the flour, break in the egg, add the milk a little at a time, and stir,
gradually working in the flour from the sides. When about half the
milk has been used, give the batter a good beating, then add the rest
of the milk, the sugar and currants. The pudding may be cooked at
once, but it will be lighter if allowed to first stand 1 hour. Cover with
a greased paper, steam for i±- hours, and serve with melted butter.
Time. — 2 to 3 hours. Average Cost, 3d. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
It H
930
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1786. — BRANDY PUDDING. (Fr. — Pouding au Cognac.)
Ingredients. — 1 wineglassful of brandy, a pint of cream, \ a pint of
milk, 4 eggs, a stale French roll, 2 ozs. of macaroons or ratafias, 4 ozs.
of sugar, \ a teaspoonful of grated lemon-rind, grated nutmeg, glace
cherries.
Method. — Decorate a well-buttered mould with halved cherries, and
afterwards line it with thin slices of roll. About fill the mould with
alternate layers of macaroons and sliced roll, adding a few cherries,
the brandy, and a little sugar. Mix the eggs, cream, and milk, add
the sugar, lemon-rind, and a little nutmeg, and pour the whole into
the mould. Let it stand for 1 hour, then steam it gently for it,- hours,
and serve with a suitable sauce.
Time. — i-J hours. Average Cost, 2s. 3d. to 2s. 6d. Sufficient for 6
or 7 persons.
1787. — BREAD PUDDING, BAKED.
Ingredients. — 8 ozs. of stale bread, 4 ozs. of raisins or currants, cleaned
and picked, 2 ozs. of finely-chopped suet, 2 ozs. of sugar, 1 egg, a little
milk, a good pinch of nutmeg.
Method. — Break the bread into small pieces, cover them with cold
water, soak for \ an hour, then strain and squeeze dry. Beat out
all the lumps with a fork, and stir in the sugar, suet, raisins, nutmeg,
and mix well. Add the egg, previously beaten, and as much milk as
is necessary to make the mixture moist enough to drop readily from
the spoon. Pour into a greased piedish and bake gently for about 1
hour. When done, turn out on to a hot dish, and dredge well with
sugar.
Time. — if to 2 hours. Average Cost, 4d. to 5d. Sufficient for 5 or 6
persons.
1788. — BREAD PUDDING, BOILED.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of stale bread, 6 ozs. of raisins or currants, cleaned
and picked, 3 ozs. of finely-chopped suet, 3 ozs. of sugar, 2 ozs. of peel,
1 egg, j of a pint of milk, a good pinch of nutmeg.
Method. — Break the bread into small pieces, cover with cold water,
soak for \ an hour, then strain and squeeze dry. Beat out all the lumps
with a fork, add the raisins, suet, sugar, peel and nutmeg, and mix
well. Beat the egg, add to it the milk, and stir into the rest of the
ingredients. Put into a greased basin, and steam or boil for 2 hours.
Serve with a sweet sauce, if liked.
Time. — About 3 hours. Average Cost, 8d. Sufficient for 5 or 6
persons.
RECIPES FOR PUDDINGS
93i
PUDDINGS,
1789. — BREAD AND BUTTER
BAKED.
Ingredients. — 5 or 6 thin slices of bread and butter, 1 pint of milk,
2 eggs, 1 dessertspoonful of sugar, sultanas, currants or candied lemon,
if liked.
Method. — Cut off the crust and divide each slice of bread into 4
squares, arrange them in layers in a well-buttered piedish, and sprinkle
each layer with sultanas or whatever is being used. Beat the eggs,
add the sugar, stir until dissolved, then mix in the milk and pour gently
over the bread, which should only half fill the dish. Let it stand
at least 1 hour for the bread to soak, then bake in a moderately cool
oven for nearly 1 hour.
Time. — hours. Average Cost, 6d. to 8d. Sufficient for 4 or 5
persons.
1790. — BREAD AND BUTTER PUDDING,
STEAMED.
Ingredients. — 5 or 6 slices of bread and butter, f of a pint of milk,
1 dessertspoonful of sugar, 2 eggs, sultanas, raisins, currants, or candied
peel, if liked.
Method. — Butter a pudding basin, sprinkle it with currants, or chopped
peel, or arrange raisins or sultanas in some simple design on the bottom
and sides of the basin. Cut each slice of bread into 4 pieces, place them
in layers, each layer being sprinkled with fruit and a little finely-
chopped candied peel. Beat the eggs, add the milk and the sugar,
stir until the sugar is dissolved, then pour slowly over the bread, etc.
Let it stand at least 1 hour, if convenient for 2 hours, before being
cooked. Cover the top with a greased paper, and steam slowly for
about 1 hour. Serve with a sweet sauce or fruit syrup.
Time. — To make, about 20 minutes ; altogether from 2| to 3 hours.
Average Cost, 5 Jd. without the bread. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
1791. — BROWN BREAD PUDDING. (Fr.—. Pouding
au pain noir.)
Ingredients. — 6 ozs of brown bread, weighed after being passed
through a sieve, 4 ozs. of sugar, 3 ozs. of butter, 2 ozs. of finely-shredded
mixed candied peel, 3 eggs, j a pint of milk, 1 glass of sherry, cinnamon,
nutmeg, salt;
Method. — Pass the brown bread through a fine wire sieve. Boil the
milk, pour it over the breadcrumbs, and let them soak for not less than
15 minutes. Cream the butter and sugar together; when thick and
white, beat in the eggs separately, add the milk and bread, peel, sherry,
and a good pinch each of cinnamon, nutmeg and salt. Put the mixture
932
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
into a well-greased mould or basin, and steam for 2 hours. Serve with
custard or wine sauce.
Time. — 2f to 3 hours. Average Cost, about is. Sufficient for 5 or 6
persons.
1792. — BROWN BREAD PUDDING. (Another
Method.)
Ingredients. — 6 ozs. of crumbled brown bread, 4 ozs. of finely-chopped
suet, 2 ozs. of sugar, 2 ozs. each of raisins and sultanas, cleaned and
picked, 2 eggs, a little milk, a good pinch each of nutmeg, cinnamon
and salt.
Method. — Mix all the dry ingredients together. Beat the eggs
thoroughly, stir them into the mixture, add milk until all the ingredients
are moistened, then cover and let stand for \ an hour or longer, to
allow the bread to soak. Have ready a well-greased mould or basin;
beat the mixture, add a little more milk if necessary, pour into the
mould, and steam or boil for 3^ hours.
Time. — About 4 hours. Average Cost, 8d. to 9d. Sufficient for 5 or 6
persons.
1793. — BROWN BREAD AND CHESTNUT PUD-
DING. (Ft. — Pouding au pain noir et
Marrons.)
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of chestnuts, \ alb. of brown bread (crumbled and
weighed afterwards), of a lb. of sultanas, \ of a lb. of brown sugar,
2 ozs. of butter, 1 tablespoonful of blanched and coarsely-chopped
almonds, -J- a pint of milk, 2 eggs.
Method. — Clean and pick the sultanas; rub the brown bread through
a wire sieve. Bake or roast the chestnuts for about 20 minutes, remove
both skins, put them into a saucepan with the milk, simmer until
tender, then beat well, and add the butter and sugar. Mix the crumbled
brown bread, sultanas and almonds together, add the chestnut puree,
the eggs, previously beaten, and mix well. Pour into a buttered mould
or basin, and steam for 2\ to 3 hours.
Time. — About 4 hours. Average Cost, iod. to is. Sufficient for 6 or
8 persons.
1794. — BURNT CREAM. ( Fr . — Creme Brulee.)
Ingredients. — -} a pint of cream, -1- a pint of milk, 1 dessertspoonful of
creme de riz or cornflour, 6 yolks of eggs, \\ ozs. of vanilla sugar,
ground cinnamon.
Method. — Mix the creme de riz or cornflour smoothly with a little
milk, and put the remainder, with the cream and 1 oz. of vanilla sugar,
RECIPES FOR PUDDINGS
933
into a stewpan. When boiling, add the creme de riz, cook for 2 or 3
minutes, cool slightly, then put in the well-beaten yolks of eggs, and
whisk briskly by the side of the fire until they thicken, but do not
allow the mixture to boil. Pour the preparation into a well-buttered
souffle dish, sprinkle the surface lightly with cinnamon, and thickly
with vanilla sugar, and bake in a quick oven for 10 or 15 minutes.
The top must be well-browned, and when the oven is not hot enough
for the purpose, the dish should be held under a salamander before
serving.
Time. — From 35 to 45 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. Sufficient for
6 or 7 persons.
I795-— 1 CABINET PUDDING. (Fr.— Pouding
Cabinet.)
Ingredients. — Stale sponge cake or Savoy biscuits, J of a pint of milk,
4 yolks and 2 whites of eggs, 6 or 8 ratafia biscuits, 1 tablespoonful of
castor sugar, a few drops of vanilla, a few cherries, and a little angelica
to ornament the mould.
Method. — Butter a mould with plain straight sides, ornament the
bottom with strips of angelica and cherries cut in halves, and line the sides
with narrow strips of sponge cake or Savoy biscuits. Break the trim-
mings of the cake or 3 or 4 biscuits into small pieces, put them, together
with the ratafias, into the mould. Beat the eggs, add to them the sugar,
flavouring and milk, stir until the sugar is dissolved, then pour the cus-
tard slowly into the mould. Cover with a buttered paper, and steam
gently for nearly 1 hour.
Time. — About 1 hours. Average Cost, iod. to is. Sufficient for 5 or 6
persons.
1796.— CABINET PUDDING, PLAIN.
Ingredients. — 5 or 6 thin slices of bread ( see Note), 1 pint of milk, 2
eggs, 1 tablespoonful of sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls of raisins, a few drops
of almond essence, or other flavouring.
Method. — Cut the raisins in halves and remove the stones. Cut the
crusts off the bread, divide each slice into strips 1 inch wide, taper one
end and trim to a uniform length. Have ready a well-buttered basin,
decorate with raisins, and line with strips of bread. Beat the eggs, add
to them the sugar, milk and flavouring, and stir until the sugar is dis-
solved. Cut all the bread-trimming into dice, put them into the pre-
pared basin, pour on the custard, cover with a greased paper, and steam
gently for 1 hour.
Time. — 1£ hours. Average Cost, 7d., without the bread. Sufficient
for 4 or 5 persons.
Note. — In place of bread, savoy, finger biscuits, or stale cake may be
advantageously used for this pudding.
934
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1797. — CANADIAN PUDDING.
Ingredients. — 6 tablespoonfuls of Indian ideal, 2 tablespoonfuls of
castor sugar, 4 eggs, the thin rind of 1 small lemon, 1 quart of milk,
raisins stoned and halved.
Method. — Mix the meal with a little cold milk, infuse the lemon-rind
in the remainder for 1 5 minutes, then strain the boiling milk over the
meal. Replace in the stewpan, add the sugar, and simmer gently for
10 minutes. When cool, add the well-beaten eggs, and pour the mix-
ture into a mould or basin previously well buttered and decorated with
raisins. Steam for 2\ hours, then serve with a suitable sauce.
Time. — About 3 hours. Average Cost, is. 3d. Sufficient for 6 or 7
persons.
1798. — CANARY PUDDING.
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of flour, 3 ozs. of sugar, 2 ozs. of butter, 2 eggs,
1 teaspoonful of baking-powder, milk.
Method. — Cream the butter and sugar together until thick and smooth,
and add each egg, separately. Beat well, then stir in the flour and
baking-powder as lightly as possible, and add milk gradually until the
mixture drops readily from the spoon. Pour into a well-buttered
mould, steam for about 1 hour, and serve with jam or custard sauce.
Time. — About ij hours. Average Cost, 6d. Sufficient for 5 or 6 per-
sons.
1799. — CANNELL PUDDING. (Fr. — Pouding a la
Cannelle.)
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of ground almonds, 4 ozs. of castor sugar, 3 ozs. of
crumbled Savoy biscuits or Madeira cake, i-|- ozs. of butter, 1 oz. of
flour, 4 eggs, \ a pint of milk, a good pinch of grated nutmeg, 1 inch
of cinnamon.
Method. — Boil up the milk, infuse the cinnamon in it for 20 minutes,
and strain it over the cake crumbs. Beat the butter and the sugar
together until creamy, add the yolks of egg separately, and stir in the
almonds and nutmeg. Whisk the whites of eggs stiffly, and stir them
lightly in, sprinkling the flour in gradually meanwhile. Have ready a
mould, well buttered and lightly sprinkled with breadcrumbs, put
in the mixture, bake in a moderate oven for J of an hour, then turn out
and serve with hot raspberry syrup.
Time. — 1| hours. Average Cost, is. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
1800. — CARAMEL PUDDING. (Fr.— Pouding
au Caramel.)
Ingredients. — For the caramel: 2 ozs. of loaf sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls of
cold water. For the custard: \ a pint of milk, 4 yolks and 2 whites of
RECIPES FOR PUDDINGS 935
eggs, i tablespoonful of castor sugar, a few drops of vanilla or other
flavouring.
Method. — Boil the loaf sugar and cold water together until the liquid
acquires a light-brown colour, then pour it into a charlotte or plain
timbale mould, and turn the mould slowly round and round until every
part of it is coated with the caramel. Beat the eggs, add to them the
sugar, flavouring and milk, and stir until the sugar is dissolved. Strain
the custard into the mould, cover with a greased paper, steam very
slowly for about 40 minutes, then turn out carefully. No other sauce
is needed than the caramel, which runs off when the pudding is in-
verted. This pudding is equally nice cold; when intended to be served
thus, it may be allowed to cool before being turned out of the mould,
and so lessen the probability of its breaking. If preferred, 6 dariol
moulds may be used instead of 1 large mould.
Time.— About i|- hours. Average Cost, /d. or Sd. Sufficient for 4 or 5
persons.
1801. — CARAMEL RICE PUDDING. {Fr — Caramel au
Riz.
Ingredients. — -For the caramel: 4 ozs. of loaf sugar, I of a pint of
water. For the pudding: 3 ozs. of rice, 1 pint of milk, 1 tablespoonful
of castor sugar, 2 eggs, vanilla essence.
Method. -Prepare the caramel, and line the mould as directed in the
preceding recipe. Simmer the rice in the milk until tender, cool
slightly, then stir in the well-beaten eggs, sugar, and a few drops of
vanilla essence. Turn into the prepared mould, cover with buttered
paper, and steam for nearly 1 hour. Serve either hot or cold. If
preferred, the rice may be steamed in dariol moulds.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, 7d. or 8d. Sufficient for 5 or 6
persons.
1802. — CARROT PUDDING. {Fr.— Pouding Cre<;y.)
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of young carrots, 3 a lb. of fresh breadcrumbs,
\ a lb. of butter, of a lb. of castor sugar, I of a lb. of glace cherries,
2 eggs, 1 teaspoonful of ground cinnamon, a good pinch of salt.
Method. — Wash and scrub the carrots, but do not scrape them ; put
them into slightly salted water and boil until tender, then rub through
a fine sieve. Cream the butter and sugar together, add the yolks of
eggs and beat well, then mix in the breadcrumbs, cinnamon, cherries
cut in quarters, and the carrot pulp. Whip the whites to a stiff froth,
stir them very lightly into the rest of the ingredients, pour the mix-
ture into a well-buttered mould, and steam for 2\ to 2 -l- hours. Serve
with lemon sauce or sherry sauce.
Time. — 3 to 3^ hours. Average Cost, is. 3d. to is. 6d. Sufficient for
7 or 8 persons.
936
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1803. — CARROT PUDDING. (Economical.)
Ingredients. — f of a lb. of young carrots, \ a lb. of breadcrumbs,
J of a lb. of finely-chopped suet, J of a lb. of sugar, 2 ozs. each of sul-
tanas and raisins, cleaned and stoned, 3 eggs, a little milk, a good pinch
of nutmeg, a good pinch of salt.
Method. — Prepare the carrot pulp as dhectedin the preceding recipe.
Mix all the dry ingredients together, add to them the carrot pulp, eggs
(previously well beaten), and sufficient milk to thoroughly moisten the
whole. Pour into a well-greased mould or basin, cover with a buttered
paper, and steam from 2 to 2-)- hours. Or, turn into a buttered piedish,
and bake gently for about i|- hours.
Time. — To make and steam, about 3 hours; to bake, from 2 to 2\
hours. Average Cost, iod. to is. Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.
1804. — CASSELL PUDDING.
Ingredients. — 2 eggs, and their weight in butter, castor sugar and
flour, 1 saltspoonful of finely-grated lemon-rind, jam.
Method. — Whisk the eggs well, stir in the sugar and flour, and add the
butter slightly warmed. Have ready some well-buttered cups, cover
the bottom of each one with jam, and fill it three-quarters full with
the mixture. Bake in a moderate oven for 23 minutes, and serve with
boiled custard ( see recipes for same).
Time. — £■ of an hour. Average Cost, iod. to is. Sufficient for 6 or 7
persons.
1805. — CASTLE PUDDINGS. (Fr. — Pouding a la
Chateau.)
Ingredients. — 1 \ ozs. of flour, 1 \ ozs. of castor sugar, 1 oz. of butter,
1 level teaspoonful of baking-powder, 1 egg, a little milk, flavouring.
Method. — Cream the butter and sugar together, beat in the egg until
the mixture is light and creamy. Sieve the flour and baking-powder
together, stir lightly in, and add milk gradually until the mixture drops
readily from the spoon. Three parts fill some well-buttered dariol
moulds, and steam for 50 minutes or bake for half that length of time.
Grated lemon-rind, vanilla, or any other flavouring ingredient may be
added. Serve with jam, wine, or custard sauce.
Time. — About i|- hours. Average Cost, 5d. Sufficient for 3 or 4
persons.
1806. — CHERRY PUDDING. (Fr.— Pouding aux
Cerises.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of cooking cherries, 3 tablespoonfuls of moist sugar,
1 inch of cinnamon, 3 ozs. of flour, 2 ozs. of castor sugar, 4 eggs, 1 gill
RECIPES FOR PUDDINGS
937
of cream, 2 tablespoonfuls of milk (about), the grated rind of \ a lemon,
salt.
Method. — Stone the cherries by means of a wooden skewer, put them
with the cinnamon, 2 tablespoonfuls of cold water, and the moist sugar,
into a jar placed in a saucepan containing boiling water, cook until
tender, and allow them to cool. Heat the cream, add the flour,
previously blended smoothly with the milk, boil well, then add the
sugar and a good pinch of salt. Let it cool slightly, then beat in the
yolks of eggs separately, add the lemon-rind, and lastly the stiffly-
whipped whites of eggs. Have ready a w'ell-buttered plain mould,
place a layer of cherries on the bottom, then a layer of the mixture,
and repeat until the mould is full. Cover with a greased paper, and
bake in a moderately hot oven for about 40 minutes. Serve with a sweet
sauce or fruit syrup.
Time. — About i£ hours. Average Cost, is. 3d. Sufficient for 5 or 6
persons.
1807. — CHESTNUT PUDDING. (Fr.— Pouding aux
Matrons.)
Ingredients. — 6 ozs. of chestnuts (weighed after the skins are removed),
1 oz. of chocolate, 2 ozs. of cake crumbs, 2 ozs. of flour, 2 ozs. of butter,
1 oz. of castor sugar, 4 eggs, \ a pint of milk, \ a teaspoonful of essence
of vanilla.
Method. — Bake or roast the chestnuts, remove both skins, put them
into a stewpan with a very small quantity of water, cook until tender,
then rub through a fine sieve. Break the chocolate into small pieces,
put it and the milk into a stewpan, and simmer until dissolved. In
another stewpan melt the butter, stir in the flour, cook for 2 or 3 minutes,
then add the milk, and stir until it boils. The cakecrumbs must now
be added, and the mixture stirred and cooked until it leaves the sides
of the stewpan clear. Allow it to cool a little, then beat in the yolks
of the eggs, and add the chestnut puree and the vanilla essence. Whisk
the whites of eggs to a stiff froth, stir them lightly into the mixture, pour
into a well-buttered mould, cover with buttered paper, and either steam
for i|- hours or bake in a moderately hot oven for 1 hour. Serve with
vanilla or custard sauce.
Time. — About 2f hours. Average Cost, is. to is. 2d. Sufficient for
6 or 7 persons.
1808. — CHESTER PUDDING.
Ingredients. — 4 eggs, 2 ozs. of castor sugar, 2 ozs. of butter warmed,
1 tablespoonful of ground almonds, essence of bitter almonds, 1 lemon,
paste No. 1667, or 1668
Method. — Stir the yolks of the eggs and sugar together until thick
938
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
and smooth, add the butter, almonds, a few drops of almond essence,
and the finely-grated rind and juice of the lemon. Have ready a small
piedish lined with paste, pour in the mixture, and bake gently for
20 minutes, or until set. Whip the whites stiffly, pile them on the
pudding, dredge liberally with castor sugar, replace in the oven, and
bake gently until the whites harden and acquire a little colour. Serve
either hot or cold.
Time. — f of an hour. Average Cost, is. 3d. Sufficient for 3 or 4
persons.
1809. — CHOCOLATE PUDDING. (Fr. — Pouding au
Chocolat.)
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of chocolate, 2 ozs. of cakecrumbs, 2 ozs. of flour,
2 ozs. of butter, 1 oz. of castor sugar, 4 eggs, \ a pint of milk, \ a tea-
spoonful of vanilla essence.
Method. — Break the chocolate into small pieces, put it with the milk
into a stewpan, simmer until dissolved and cool. In another stewpan
melt the butter, stir in the flour, cook a little without browning, then
put in the milk and stir until boiling. Now add the cakecrumbs, and
cook gently until the mixture becomes thick and leaves the sides of the
stewpan clear. Let it cool a little, then beat in the yolks of the eggs
and add the vanilla essence. Whisk the whites to a stiff froth, stir them
lightly into the mixture, pour into a well-buttered plain mould, cover
with buttered paper, and steam for if hours, or bake for 1 hour in a
moderate oven. Serve with custard, chocolate, or vanilla sauce.
Time. — About 2\ hours. Average Cost, is. id. to is. 3d. Sufficient
for 5 or 6 persons.
1810. — CHOCOLATE PUDDING. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 3-f ozs. of breadcrumbs, 2 ozs. of chocolate, if ozs. of
castor sugar, if ozs. of butter, 2 eggs, f of a pint of milk (about), vanilla
essence.
Method. — Break the chocolate into small pieces, put it into a stewpan
with the milk, and simmer until dissolved. Cream the butter and
sugar together, stir in the yolks of eggs, breadcrumbs, milk, chocolate,
and a few drops of vanilla essence, and mix well together. Whisk the
whites stiffly, add them lightly to the rest of the ingredients, pour into
a well-buttered mould, cover with a greased paper, and steam from
if to if hours. Or, put the mixture into 6 well-buttered large-sized
dariol moulds, and steam about 25 minutes. Serve with custard or
vanilla sauce.
Time. — From if to 2 hours. Average Cost, about 8d. Sufficient for
5 or 6 persons.
RECIPES FOR PUDDINGS
939
1 8 1 1 CH RISTM AS PUDDING (without suet). (Fruit-
arian Plum Pudding).
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of figs, \ a lb. of breadcrumbs, \ a lb. of stoned
raisins, £ of a lb. of currants, \ of a lb. of sultanas, \ of a lb. of candied
peel, \ a lb. of peeled sweet almonds, of a lb. of pine kernels, j of a
lb. of butter, ^ of a lb. of shelled Brazil nuts, the grated rind of i, and
the juice of 2, lemons, 4 eggs, 1 teaspoonful of whole spice, a pinch of
salt, J of a lb. of moist or brown sugar, 2 apples, J of a lb. of honey.
Method. — Mince the figs. Peel, core and chop the apples. Chop the
almonds, pine kernels and nuts. Clean the fruit, and chop or shred
the candied peel. Put all the dry ingredients in a basin, and add the
honey and lemon juice. Beat up the eggs, and stir in with the above.
When thoroughly mixed fill into 1 or 2 buttered moulds, tie over with
a buttered cloth, and boil for 3 hours. When done, unmould, dish
up, and serve with a suitable sauce or custard.
Average Cost. — 2s. 9 d. Sufficient for 2 medium-sized puddings.
1812. — CHRISTMAS PUDDING (rich). (Fr.— Pouding
de Noel.)
Ingredients. — \ alb. of beef suet, 2 ozs. of flour, \ a lb. of raisins, \
of a lb. of mixed peel, J a grated nutmeg, \ an oz. of mixed spice, \
an oz. of ground cinnamon, 1 gill of milk, 1 wineglassful of rum or
brandy, \ a lb. of breadcrumbs, \ a lb. of sultanas, J of a lb. of cur-
rants, 1 lemon, 2 ozs. of desiccated cocoanut or shredded almonds, a
pinch of salt. 4 eggs.
Method. — Skin the suet and chop it finely. Clean the fruit, stone the
raisins, finely shred the mixed peel ; peel and chop the lemon rind.
Put all the dry ingredients in a basin and mix well. Add the milk,
stir in the eggs one at a time, add the rum or brandy and the strained
juice of the lemon. Work the whole thoroughly for some minutes, so
that the ingredients are well blended. Put the mixture in a well
buttered pudding basin or pudding cloth ; if the latter is used it should
be buttered or floured. Boil for about 4 hours, or steam for at least
5 hours.
Average Cost. — is. iod. Sufficient for 8 or 9 persons.
1813. — CHRISTMAS PUDDING (inexpensive).
Ingredients. — J of a lb. of flour, \ of a lb. of breadcrumbs, 1 oz. of
Paisley flour, \ a lb. of chopped suet, ^ a lb. of sultanas, -J- a lb. of
raisins (stoned), 6 ozs. mixed candied peel, \ of a lb. of castor sugar,
1 lemon rind and juice, 3 eggs, milk to mix.
Method. — Sift the flour and Paisley flour well together, mix the chopped
suet with the flour, and add all the other dry ingredients. Stir in the
beaten eggs and sufficient milk to make the mixture rather moist.
940
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Boil in one or two well greased pudding basins for 4 hours. A wine-
glassful of brandy may be added if liked.
Average Cost. — is. 3d. Sufficient for 1 large or 2 small puddings.
1814. — CHRISTMAS PUDDING. (See also Recipes
for Plum Pudding and Pound Pudding,
Recipes No. 1888 to 1893.)
1815. — COBOURG PUDDINGS.
Ingredients. — \ a pint of milk, 3 ozs. of flour, 3 ozs. of castor sugar,
3 ozs. of butter, 3 ozs. of currants cleaned and picked, 3 eggs, 1 table-
spoonful of brandy, a good pinch of nutmeg, a good pinch of salt, 4 a
teaspoonful of baking-powder.
Method. — Cream the butter and sugar together, add the eggs gradu-
ally, and beat in well each one. Mix in the rest of the ingredients,
pour into well-buttered dariol moulds or small cups, and bake for about
\ an hour. Serve with wine sauce.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, iod. to is. Suflicient for 6 or 7
persons.
1816. — COCOANUT PUDDING.
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of grated cocoanut, 1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of castor
sugar, 1 oz. of cakecrumbs, 4 whites of eggs, 3 yolks of eggs, \ a pint of
milk, 1 of a pint of cream, 1 teaspoonful of vanilla essence, paste.
Method. — Simmer the cocoanut in the milk until tender, and allow
it to become quite cold. Cream the butter and sugar together until
quite smooth, stir in the yolks of eggs separately, add the cakecrumbs,
cream, vanilla, and the prepared cocoanut and milk. Whisk the whites
of eggs to a stiff froth, stir them lightly into the rest of the ingredients,
and pour the mixture into a piedish, the edges of which must be previ-
ously lined and decorated with paste (see Apple Amber, No. 1676). Bake
in a moderate oven until the mixture is set, then pile on the remaining
two whites of eggs, previously stiffly-whisked, replace in the oven
until the meringue hardens and acquires a little colour, then serve.
Time. — 2 hours. Average Cost, is. 6d. Suflicient for 6 or 7 persons.
1817. — COLLEGE PUDDINGS.
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of breadcrumbs, 4 ozs. of finely-chopped suet,
2 ozs. each of currants and sultanas, cleaned and picked, 2 ozs. of sugar,
2 eggs, a good pinch each of grated nutmeg, ground cloves, ground
cinnamon, and salt, -|- a teaspoonful of baking-powder.
Method. — Mix all the dry ingredients together, add the eggs, previ-
ously well-beaten, and stir until thoroughly mixed. Put the mixture
into well-buttered dariol moulds, and either bake for about 25 minutes
or steam 35 minutes. Serve with a good wine or brandy sauce.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost,8d. toqd. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
RECIPES FOR PUDDINGS
941
1818. — COLLEGE PUDDINGS. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of breadcrumbs, 3 ozs. of finely-chopped suet,
2 ozs. of sugar, 2 ozs. of currants, cleaned and picked, 1 oz. of finely-
shredded candied peel, 2 eggs, a pinch each of nutmeg and salt, a table-
spoonful of brandy, if liked.
Method. — Mix the breadcrumbs, suet, sugar, currants, peel, salt and
nutmeg together. Beat the eggs well, add to them the brandy, strain
into the rest of the ingredients, and stir until thoroughly mixed. Cover
the basin, and let the mixture stand for at least 1 hour for the bread to
soak; then form into round or cork-shaped pieces, fry very gently in
hot butter or fat, in a saute pan, turning them frequently. Drain- well,
and serve as hot as possible with good wine sauce.
Time. — 2 hours. Average Cost, from 8d. to 9d. Sufficient for 7 or 8
persons.
1819. — CORN PUDDING.
Ingredients. — 3 tablespoonfuls of Indian meal, 1 tablespoonful of
castor sugar, £ of a teaspoonful of finely-grated lemon-rind, 3 eggs,
1 pint of milk.
Method. — Mix the meal with a little cold milk, boil up the remainder,
add the meal, sugar, and lemon-rind, stir and cook gently for a few
minutes. When cool, add the well-beaten eggs, half fill well-buttered
cups with the mixture, and bake in a moderately hot oven for \ an
hour.
Time. — 1 hour. Average Cost, 8d. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
1820. — CORNFLOUR PUDDING.
Ingredients. — 1 pint of milk, 2 tablespoonfuls of cornflour, 1 table-
spoonful of castor sugar, 2 eggs, a pinch of salt, the grated rind of i a
lemon.
Method. — Mix the cornflour smoothly with a little milk, boil the
remainder, and add to it the cornflour, stirring all the time. Return
to the saucepan, and boil gently until it thickens, then cool slightly.
Add the sugar, yolks of eggs, salt and lemon-rind, and stir for 2 or 3
minutes by the side of the fire. Whisk the whites to a stiff froth, lightly
add them to the rest of the ingredients, pour into a buttered piedish,
and bake slowly for \ an hour.
Time. — About 40 minutes. Average Cost, 5d. to 6d. Sufficient for
4 or 5 persons.
1821. — COTTAGE PUDDING.
Ingredients. — 8 ozs. of flour, 4 ozs. of finely-chopped suet, 4 ozs. of
raisins, stoned and halved, 4 ozs. of sugar, 1 egg, 3 or 4 tablespoonfuls
942
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
of milk, \ a teaspoonlul of cream of tartar, J of a teaspoonful of car-
bonate of soda, salt.
Method. — Mix the flour, suet, raisins, sugar, cream of tartar, and a
good pinch of salt together. Dissolve the soda in the milk, add it to
the well-beaten egg, mix well, and stir into the dry ingredients. The
mixture must be rather stiff, but, at the same time, thoroughly moist-
ened. Turn into a greased Yorkshire pudding-tin, and bake in a
moderate oven from 30 to 40 minutes. Cut the pudding into squares,
and serve.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, yd. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
1822. — CRANBERRY PUDDING. (See Apple
Pudding, Boiled, No. 1763, and Damson
Pudding, No. 1832.)
1823. — CROQUETS OF RICE. (Fr.— Croquettes de
Riz.)
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of Carolina rice, 2 ozs. of castor sugar, \ an oz. of
butter, lemon-rind, about i-| pints of milk, 2 yolks of eggs, 1 whole
egg, breadcrumbs, frying-fat, salt.
Method. — Wash and drain the rice, put it into a stewpan with 1 pint
of milk, a good pinch of salt, a little thin lemon-rind, and cook until the
rice is tender, adding more milk as required. When done, take out the
ldmon-rind, add the sugar, and the }mlks of eggs, stir over the fire until
sufficiently cooked, then spread the mixture on a plate. When ready,
form into pear or cork shapes, coat with egg and breadcrumbs, and fry
in hot fat until lightly browned. Drain well, dredge with castor sugar,
and serve with a fruit syrup or suitable sweet sauce.
Time. — About ij hours. Average Cost, 9d. Sufficient for 6 or 7
persons.
1824. — CRYSTAL PALACE PUDDING.
Ingredients. — 1 heaped up dessertspoonful of cornflour, an oz. of
gelatine or isinglass, \ a pint of cream, | of a pint of milk, sugar and
vanilla to taste, 2 yolks of eggs, glace cherries.
Method. — -Soak the gelatine or isinglass in a little water, heat up the
cream, and strain in the dissolved gelatine. Blend the cornflour
smoothly with the milk, mix it with the cream, and sweeten to taste.
Stir and boil gently for 10 minutes, let the preparation cool slightly,
then add the yolks of eggs and a few drops of vanilla essence. Stir
until on the point of setting, then turn into small moulds previously
decorated with glace cherries. When firm, turn out, dish up, and serve.
Time. — 1} hours. Average Cost, is. 6d. to is. 8d. Sufficient for 4 or
5 persons.
RECIPES FOR PUDDINGS
943
1825. — CUMBERLAND PUDDING.
Ingredients. — 6 ozs. of flour, 4 ozs. of finely-chopped suet, 6 ozs* of
coarsely-chopped apple, 4 ozs. of currants cleaned, 3 eggs, salt and
nutmeg to taste.
Method. — Beat the eggs well, mix them with the other ingredients,
and turn the whole into a buttered basin. Steam for 2\ hours, or boil
for 2 hours, then serve with wine sauce.
Time. — From 2 to 24 hours. Average Cost, pd. to iod. Sufficient for
4 or 5 persons.
1826. — CURATE’S PUDDING.
Ingredients. — 6 tablespoonfuls of mashed potato, 4 ozs. of sugar,
2 ozs. of butter, 2 eggs, 1 lemon, 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of milk, 1 salt-
spoonful of salt.
Method. — Cream the butter and sugar together until thick and
smooth, add the eggs, and beat well. Now stir in the potato, the juice
and grated rind of the lemon, salt, and a little milk, and when well
mixed pour into a greased piedish. Bake from 30 to 35 minutes in a
moderate oven.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 8d. or pd. Sufficient tor 4 or 5
persons.
1827. — CURRANT PUDDING, BOILED.
Ingredients. — -} a lb. ot currants cleaned, \ a lb. of suet finely-chopped,
1 lb. of flour, milk, lemon, butter, sugar.
Method. — Mix the dry ingredients together, and add sufficient milk
to form a stiff batter. Turn the mixture into a floured cloth, boil
gently for 2\ hours, and serve with a cut lemon, iresh butter and sugar.
For directions for making a pudding of fresh fruit, see Apple Pudding,
Boiled, and Damson Pudding.
Time. — To boil the pudding, about 3 hours. Average Cost, is. Sufficient
for 7 or 8 persons.
1828. -CUSTARD PUDDING, BAKED.
Ingredients. — a pint of milk, 1 dessertspoonful of loaf or castor sugar,
2 eggs.
Method. — Beat the eggs, add to them the sugar and milk, and stir
until the sugar is dissolved. Strain into abuttered piedish, and bake
in a slow oven until set (about 30 minutes). When the oven is too hot
the dish should be placed in a tin of water, to prevent the custard
baking too quickly ( see Notes on Puddings, p. p 1 5 ).
Time.— About 40 minutes. Average Cost, 3^d. Sufficient for 1 or 2
persons.
944
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1829. — CUSTARD PUDDING, BAKED. (Another
way.)
Ingredients. — -1 pint of milk, 1 tablespoonful of sugar, 1 teaspoonful
of flour, 4 an oz. of butter, 2 eggs, lemon-rind, bay-leaf or laurel-leaf for
flavouring, a pinch of salt-, a pinch of nutmeg.
Method. — Simmer the milk with the flavouring ingredient for about
20 minutes, then remove the lemon-rind or whatever has been used,
and put in the butter and sugar. Mix the flour smoothly with a little
cold milk or water, pour it into the stewpan, stir until it boils, cook for
5 minutes, then cool a little. Beat the eggs, add them to the rest of
the ingredients, pour into a buttered piedish, and bake in a slow oven
for about 40 minutes, or until set.
Time.— 14 hours. Average Cost, 6d. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
1830. — CUSTARD PUDDING, STEAMED.
Ingredients. — \ a pint of milk, 1 dessertspoonful of castor sugar, 3
eggs, a few drops of essence of vanilla or other flavouring.
Method. — Beat the eggs, add the sugar, milk and vanilla essence,
stir until the sugar is dissolved, then pour the mixture into a buttered
basin, and steam very gently for i an hour. Serve with wine sauce.
A very nice pudding may be made with the same quantity of milk,
half the quantity of sugar, and 1 egg, but it must be served in the
basin.
Time — About 40 minutes. Average Cost, 5d. Sufficient for 2 or 3
persons.
1831. — CUSTARD PIE.
Ingredients. — 1 quart of milk, 1 tablespoonful of sugar (or to taste),
1 level tablespoonful of cornflour, 3 eggs, the rind of \ a lemon, or other
flavouring, salt, paste No. 1668, or 1669.
Method. — Mix the cornflour smoothly with a little milk, simmer
the remainder with the lemon-rind for about 20 minutes, then remove
the lemon-rind and add the milk to the cornflour, stirring all the time.
Replace in the stewpan, stir and cook for 2 or 3 minutes, add the sugar
and a pinch of salt, and allow the mixture to cool slightly. Meanwhile
beat the eggs, and add them to the rest of the ingredients. Line
2 deep dishes or 12 deep patty-pans with paste, pour in the custard,
and bake in a moderately hot oven until the paste is sufficiently cooked
and the custard set. If the oven has not a good bottom heat the paste
should be partially baked before putting in the custard (see Cherry
Tartlets, No. 1685).
Time. — From to hours. Average Cost, is. Sufficient for 8
or 9 persons.
PUDDINGS.
i. Caramel Pudding. 2. Cocoanut Amber. 3. Ginger Creams.
d *
75
RECIPES FOR PUDDINGS
945
1832. — DAMSON PUDDING.
Ingredients. — Suet crust, No. 1670 or 1671, i|- pints of damsons, 2
tablespoonfuls of brown sugar, or to taste.
Method. — Line the basin as directed for Apple Pudding, No. 1763.
Half fill it with fruit, add the sugar, and then the remainder of the fruit.
Put on the cover, carefully seal the edges, and if the pudding is to be
boiled, tie on a scalded well-floured cloth; if steamed, cover it with a
sheet of greased paper. Cook from 2\ to 3 hours.
Time. — From 3 to 3+ hours. Average Cost, 7d. to 8d. Sufficient for
6 or 7 persons.
1833. — DANISH PUDDING. (Fr.— Pouding Danoise.)
Ingredients. — 1 breakfastcupful of tapioca, 1 breakfastcupful of red
currant jelly, salt and castor sugar to taste, 3 pints of water.
Method. — Soak the tapioca in the water for at least 12 hours, then
turn it into a double saucepan, cook for i|- hours, and add salt and
sugar to taste. Stir in the jelly, and, when well mixed, turn the pre-
paration into a mould, and put aside until set. Serve with whipped
cream.
Time. — Tocook the tapioca, § of an hour. Average Cost, is. Sufficient
for 4 or s persons.
1834. — DATE PUDDING. (Fr. — Pouding aux Dattes.)
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of stoned and chopped dates, \ a lb. of finely-
chopped suet, 1 lb. of flour, J of a teaspoonful of salt, milk or water.
Method. — Mix the dry ingredients well together, add sufficient milk
or water to moisten them slightly, and turn the mixture into a well-
greased basin. Steam or boil from to 3 hours, or form the mixture
into a roly-poly, enclose it in a cloth, and boil gently for 1 1 hours.
Time. — From 2 to 3J hours. Average Cost, 8d. Sufficient for 7 or 8
persons.
1835. — DELHI PUDDING.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of flour, 10 ozs. of finely-chopped suet, 1 tea-
spoonful of baking-powder, \ a lb. of raisins, 4 or 5 apples, the grated
rind of 1 lemon, 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of brown sugar, nutmeg,
salt.
Method.— Stone and halve the raisins, pare, core and slice the apples.
Mix the flour, suet, baking-powder, a good pinch of salt, add a little
cold water and make into a smooth stiff paste. Divide it into 2 equal
portions; with one line the basin, from the other portion cut off sufficient
to form the lid, and roll the remainder out thinly. Put a layer of apple
946
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
in the basin, add a few raisins, and sprinkle with sugar, lemon-rind and
nutmeg, previously well mixed together. From the rolled out paste cut
a round large enough to rather more than cover the fruit in the basin,
moisten the edges of it with water, and join them carefully to the paste
lining the basin. Now put in another layer of apple, add raisins,
sprinkle with sugar, etc., and cover with pastry as before. Repeat
until the basin is full, then cover with a greased paper, and steam for
3 hours.
Time. — About 4 hours. Average Cost, from is. 2d. to is. 4d. Sufficient
for 7 or 8 persons.
1836. — DEVONSHIRE RUM PUDDING.
Ingredients. — Cold plum pudding cut into strips, milk, allowing 1 pint
to 1 tablespoonful of cornflour, 1 egg, 1 level tablespoonful of castor
sugar, and a good glass of rum.
Method. — Butter a piedish, and fill it with strips of plum pudding
crossed lattice fashion. Mix the cornflour smoothly with a little milk,
boil up the remainder, add the blended cornflour, and cook gently for
3 minutes. Stir in the sugar, beat and add the eggs, and put in the
rum. Pour the sauce over the plum pudding, bake gently for about
\ an hour, then serve. If preferred, the pudding may be steamed for
2 hours in a basin.
Time. — About -1- an hour. Average Cost, is. 9d. to 2s. Sufficient for 6
persons.
1837. — DRESDEN PUDDING. (Fr.— Pouding a la
Dresde.)
Ingredients. — 2 ozs. of flour, 2 ozs. of sugar, 2 ozs. of crumbled brown
bread, i4 ozs. of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of desiccated cocoanut, \ a
teaspoonful of ground cinnamon, the grated rind of \ a lemon, f of a
pint of milk, 1 dessertspoonful of Cura£oa, 3 eggs.
Method. — Melt the butter in a stewpan, stir in the flour, cook
for 2 or 3 minutes, then add -J- a gill of water and of the milk, bring
to boiling point, stirring meanwhile, and simmer gently for 5 minutes.
Heat the remainder of the milk, and pour it over the cocoanut, add the
brown bread, previously passed through a fine sieve, sugar and lemon-
rind , cover, and let it stand for 10 minutes. Meanwhile add the yolks
of the eggs to the contents of the stewpan, stir until they thicken, then
put in the cocoanut preparation, add the cinnamon and Cura?oa, and
lastly the stiffly-whisked whites of eggs. Turn into a well-buttered
mould or souffle tin, bake in a moderate oven for about 1 hour, and
serve with a suitable sweet sauce or fruit syrup.
Time- — About i-£ hours. Average Cost, is. 3d. Sufficient for 4 or 5
persons.
RECIPES FOR PUDDINGS
947
1838. — DUCHESS PUDDING. (Fr. — Pouding a la
Duchesse.)
Ingredients. — 2 ozs. of butter, 2 ozs. of castor sugar, 2 ozs. of maca-
roons, \ an oz. of pistachios, 3 tablespoonfuls of orange marmalade, 1
level teaspoonful of ground rice, 3 eggs.
Method. — Blanch, peel and chop the pistachios coarsely, and crush
the macaroons. Work the butter and sugar together until thick and
creamy, then beat in the yolks of the eggs, and add the macaroons and
marmalade. Whisk the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, add lightly
the ground rice and half the pistachios, then stir the whole carefully
into the mixture. Have ready a well-buttered souffle-mould, sprinkle
the remainder of the pistachios on the bottom and sides, pour in t lie
preparation, and steam slowly for about 1 J hours. Serve with suitable
sauce.
Time. — From if- to 2 hours. Average Cost, is. Sufficient for 4 or 5
persons.
1839. — DUMPLINGS. ( See Note to Suet Pudding,
No. 1915.)
1840. — EMPRESS PUDDING.
( Fr .- Pouding a Tlmperatrice.)
Ingredients. — 1 quart of milk, 4 ozs. of rice, 2 ozs. of butter, 1 table-
spoonful of sugar, paste or paste trimmings, jam or stewed fruit, salt.
Method. — Simmer the rice in the milk until tender and fairly dry,
then add the butter, sugar, and a good pinch of salt. Line the edge of
the piedish with paste, then spread a thin layer of rice on the bottom
of the dish, and cover thickly with jam or stewed fruit. Repeat until
the dish is full, letting the top layer be of rice. Bake in a moderate
oven for about \ an hour, and serve with boiled custard sauce
No. 332.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, is. 3d. to is. 6d. Sufficient
for 6 or 7 persons.
1841. — EVE’S PUDDING.
Ingredients. — 3 ozs. of butter, 3 ozs of castor sugar, 3 ozs. of flour,
2 eggs, almond or vanilla essence.
Method. — Beat the butter and sugar until thick and creamy, add the
yolks of eggs, and stir in the flour. Whisk the whites stiffly, stir them
lightly in, and flavour to taste. Have ready some well-buttered
dariols or small cups, fill them three-quarters full with the mixture,
and bake in a moderately hot oven from 25 to 30 minutes.
Time. — 1 hour. Average Cost, /d. to 8d. Sufficient for 6 persons.
948 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1842. — EXETER PUDDING.
Ingredients. — 5 ozs. of breadcrumbs, 2 sponge cakes sliced, 1 oz. of
ratafias, 3-^ ozs. of suet finely-chopped, 2 ozs. of sago, 3 ozs. of moist
sugar, 4 small or 3 large eggs, 1 wineglassful of rum, 2 or 3 tablespoon-
fuls of cream or milk, -J- a teaspoonful of grated lemon-rind, jam, sauce.
Method. — Mix all the ingredients, except the ratafias, sponge cake,
and jam, well together. Coat a well-buttered mould or basin lightly
with breadcrumbs, and cover the bottom with ratafias. Add a layer
of the mixture, cover with slices of sponge cake, spread thickly with
jam, and on the top place a few ratafias. Repeat until all the materials
are used, taking care that the mixture forms the top layer. Bake
gently for 1 hour, and serve with a sauce made of 3 tablespoonfuls
of black-currant jelly, a glass of sherry and a little water, and boiled up.
Time. — 1 \ hours. Average Cost, from is. 9d. to 2s. Sufficient for 5
or 6 persons.
1843. — FIG PUDDING. (Fr. — Pouding aux Figues.)
Ingredients. — 8 ozs. of dried figs, 6 ozs. of finely-chopped suet, 4 ozs.
of breadcrumbs, 4 ozs. of flour, 4 ozs. of sugar, \ a pint of milk, 2 eggs,
a good pinch of salt, a good pinch of nutmeg.
Method. — Chop the figs finely, add to them the rest of the dry in-
gredients, and mix well. Beat the eggs, add the milk, pour into the
mixture, and stir well. Turn into a greased basin, and steam for 2-|-
hours. Serve with a suitable sweet sauce.
Time. — About 3 hours. Average Cost, iod. Sufficient for 6 or 7
persons.
1844. — FIG PUDDING. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 8 ozs. of dried figs, finely-chopped, 6 ozs. of flour, 3 ozs.
of finely-chopped suet, a good pinch of salt.
Method. — Mix the flour, suet and salt together, and add enough cold
water to form a stiff paste. Roll out to a suitable thickness, cover with
the chopped figs, moisten the edges with water, roll up, and make the
ends secure. Scald and flour a pudding-cloth, put in the roll, tie the
cloth at each end, put the pudding into boiling water, and boil about
i|- hours.
Note. — A little moist sugar may be added, if liked.
Time. — From 2 to i\ hours. Average Cost, about 7d. Sufficient for
5 or 6 persons.
1845. — FINGER PUDDING.
Ingredients. — 1 oz, of Savoy or finger biscuits crushed, ozs. of butter,
3 ozs. of castor sugar, 3 ozs. of ground almonds, 4 eggs, £ of a teaspoon-
RECIPES FOR PUDDINGS
949
ful of grated lemon-rind, I of a teaspoonful of ground cinnamon, a good
pinch of ground cloves.
Method. — Stir the sugar and yolks of eggs together until smooth
and creamy, add the almonds, lemon-rind, cinnamon, cloves, the
butter melted, and the crushed biscuits. Whisk the whites stiffly,
stir them lightly in, and turn the mixture into a well-buttered mould.
Steam gently for about i hour, and serve with a suitable sauce.
Time. — About if hours. Average Cost, iod. to is. Sufficient for 4 or 5
persons.
1846. — FOREST PUDDING.
Ingredients — 3 stale sponge cakes, 2 eggs, jam, f of a pint of milk,
the grated rind of \ a lemon or other flavouring, sugar.
Method. — Slice the sponge cakes thinly, spread half of them with
jam, cover with the remainder, and place the sandwiches in a buttered
piedish, which they should half fill. Beat the eggs well, add the milk
and flavouring, and sweeten to taste. Pour the custard into the pie-
dish, cover, and let it stand for 1 hour, then bake slowly from 30 to 35
minutes. Serve hot.
Time. — About if hours. Average Cost, iod. Sufficient for 4 or 5
persons.
1847. — FRENCH PANCAKES. (Fr.— Crepes a la
Franchise.)
Ingredients. — 2 ozs. of flour, 2 ozs. of butter, 2 ozs. of castor sugar,
about 4 tablespoonfuls of jam, 2 eggs, \ a pint of milk.
Method. — Heat the milk in a stewpan. Cream the butter and sugar
together until smooth, beat in the eggs, and stir in the flour lightly.
Now add the warm milk, which will slightly curdle the mixture, beat
well, then cover and let it stand for 1 hour. Have ready 6 buttered
plates or large saucers, put an equal quantity of batter into each, bake
quickly until the batter rises, then more slowly for about 10 minutes.
Spread 5 of them with jam, which should be warm, place them on the
top of each other, cover with the plain pancake, and dredge well with
castor sugar. Serve quickly.
Time. — About if hours. Average Cost, 8d. Sufficient for 5 or 6
persons.
1848. — FRESH PLUM PUDDING. (See Damson
Pudding, No. 1832.)
1849. — FRIAR’S OMELET.
Ingredients. — 4 sour cooking apples, 2 ozs. of breadcrumbs, 2 ozs. of
sugar, 1 oz. of butter, 1 egg, f a lemon.
950
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Pare, core and slice the apples, stew them with the sugar,
butter, grated rind and juice of the lemon until tender, then stir in the
well-beaten egg. Put half the breadcrumbs at the bottom of a buttered
piedish, pour in the apple mixture, and cover with the rest of the bread-
crumbs. Add a few bits of butter, and bake for 1 5 minutes in a moder-
ate oven.
Time. — About 45 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. Sufficient for 2 or 3
persons.
1850. — GENEVA PUDDING. (Fr. — Pouding a la
Genevoise.)
Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of sour cooking apples, 3 ozs. of rice, 1 oz. of butter,
sugar, about i|- pints of milk, J of a teaspoonful of ground cinnamon,
salt.
Method. — Wash and drain the rice, place it in a stewpan with 1 pint
of milk and a good pinch of salt, cook until tender, adding more milk
as required, and sweeten to taste. While the rice is cooking, pare,
core and slice the apples, place them with the butter, cinnamon, and
a good tablespoonful of sugar in a jar, stand the jar in a saucepan half
full of boiling water, cook until tender, then rub through a fine sieve.
Butter a fireproof china souffle dish, arrange the rice and apple puree
in alternate layers, letting rice form the bottom and top layers, and
bake in a moderate oven from 35 to 40 minutes.
Time. — About i\ hours. Average Cost, ud. Sufficient for 6 or 7
persons.
1851. — GERMAN RICE PUDDING. (Fr.— Pouding de
Riz i l’Allemagne.)
Ingredients. — 2 ozs. of ground rice, 2 ozs. of butter, \\ ozs. of sugar,
or to taste, \ a pint of milk, 3 eggs, the grated rind of 1 lemon, paste,
salt.
Method. — Line and decorate the piedish with the paste, as directed
in the recipe for Apple Amber, No. 1676. Bring the milk to boiling
point, add the sugar, butter, lemon-rind, and a good pinch of salt,
sprinkle in the rice, stir until it boils, and cook gently for about 20
minutes, stirring frequently. Let it cool a little, then add the yolks
of eggs and 1 white stiffly-whisked. Pour the mixture into the pre-
pared piedish, bake in a moderate oven for about 30 minutes, or until
set. Meanwhile whisk the remaining two whites of eggs stiffly, and
now pile them on the pudding, and dredge liberally with castor sugar.
Replace in the oven until the meringue hardens and acquires a little
colour, then serve hot.
Time. — About ij hours. Average Cost, iod. to is. Sufficient for 5
or 6 persons.
RECIPES FOR PUDDINGS
95i
1852. — GINGER PUDDING. (Fr.— Pouding au Gin-
gembre.)
Ingredients. — 12 ozs. of flour, 12 ozs. of treacle, 6 ozs. of finely-chopped
suet, 1 teaspoonful of ground ginger, 1 teaspoonful of baking-powder,
^ of a pint of milk, salt.
Method. — Mix the flour, suet, ginger, baking-powder, and a good pinch
of salt well together. Stir in the treacle and milk, turn the mixture
into a well-greased basin, and cover with a greased paper. Steam for
about 2 hours, and serve with custard or cornflour sauce, or sweet melted
butter.
Time.— 2\ hours. Average Cost, 8d. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
1853. — GINGERBREAD PUDDING.
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of flour, of a lb. of finely-chopped suet, \ a lb. of
treacle, 1 egg, 1 teaspoonful of baking-powder, 1 teaspoonful of ground
ginger, \ of a pint of milk, salt.
Method. — Mix the flour, suet, ginger, baking-powder, and a good pinch
of salt well together. Add the milk, treacle and well-beaten egg,
mix thoroughly, then turn into a well-greased mould or basin, and
steam from 2} to 3 hours. Serve with a suitable sauce.
Time. — 3 to yl hours. Average Cost, jd. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
1854. — GOLDEN PUDDING. ( Fr .- — Pouding Dore.)
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of breadcrumbs, 4 ozs. of finely-chopped suet,
4 ozs. of marmalade, 2 ozs. of sugar, 2 eggs, milk, salt.
Method. — Mix the breadcrumbs, suet, sugar, and a good pinch of
salt well together. Beat the eggs well, add the marmalade and milk,
stir into the dry ingredients, and when well mixed turn into a greased
mould or basin. Cover with a greased paper, steam from 2 to 2\ hours,
and serve with cornflour, marmalade, or other suitable sauce.
Time. — From 2\ to 2| hours. Average Cost, 8d. Sufficient for 4 or 5
persons.
1855. — GOOSEBERRY PUDDING, BAKED.
Ingredients. — li pints of gooseberries, \ a pint of breadcrumbs, 2 ozs.
of sugar, or to taste, ik ozs. of butter, 3 eggs, paste No. 1667, or 1668.
Method. — Cut off the tops and tails of the gooseberries, cook them
until tender in a jar placed in a saucepan containing boiling water, then
rub through a fine sieve. Add to the gooseberry puree the bread-
crumbs, butter, sugar, and the eggs well beaten. Have ready a piedish
with the edge lined with paste, pour in the preparation, bake for
about 40 minutes, or until set, then dredge well with castor sugar, and
serve hot.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, is. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
952 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1856. — GOOSEBERRY PUDDING, BOILED. (See
Damson Pudding, No. 1832.)
1857. — GREENGAGE PUDDING. (See Damson
Pudding, No. 1832.)
1858. — GROUND RICE PUDDING. (Fr.-Pouding au
Riz.)
Ingredients. — 3 ozs. of ground rice, i tablespoonful of sugar, or to
taste, 1 oz. of butter, 2 eggs, 1 pint of milk, bay-leaf, vanilla or other
flavouring.
Method. — Boil the milk, sprinkle in the ground rice, simmer gently
for 20 minutes, then stir in the sugar, butter and eggs. If bay-leaf or
vanilla pod is the flavouring ingredient, it should be cooked in the milk;
if essence is used, it is better to add it just before baking the mix-
ture. Turn into a buttered piedish, and bake gently for about \ an
hour.
Time.— About 1 hour. Average Cost, 6d. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
1859. — HAMPSHIRE PUDDING.
Ingredients. — 3 ozs. of castor-sugar, 3 ozs. of butter warmed, 3 yolks
of eggs, 2 whites of eggs, jam, puff-paste.
Method. — Line a deep plate with the paste, and cover the bottom
with a good layer of jam. Beat the eggs well, add the butter and sugar
gradually, and whisk briskly until thick. Pour the mixture over the
jam, and bake in a moderately- hot oven for about \ hour. Serve
either hot or cold.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, is. Sufficient for 6 or 8 persons.
1860. — HASTY PUDDING. (Fr.— Pouding a la
Minute.)
Ingredients. — Milk, sugar, flour, sago or tapioca, salt.
Method. — Boil up the milk ; with the left hand sprinkle in sufficient
flour, sago or tapioca to thicken the milk, stirring briskly mean-
while. Add a little salt and sugar to taste, stir and cook for about
10 minutes, and serve with cream and sugar, jam or treacle.
Time. — -About 20 minutes. Average Cost, 2d. per person.
1861. — HONEY PUDDING. (Fr.— Pouding au Miel.)
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of honey, 6 ozs. of breadcrumbs, 1 oz. of butter,
1 oz. of florador, 2 eggs, the grated rind of \ a lemon, } a teaspoonful of
ground ginger, 1 gill of milk.
Method. — Cook the florador in the milk for 10 minutes, then pour the
preparation over the breadcrumbs, add the honey, lemon-rind, ginger,
RECIPES FOR PUDDINGS
953
warmed butter, and the yolks of the eggs, and beat well. Whisl^
the whites stiffly, stir them lightly into the rest of the ingredients, and
turn the mixture into a well-buttered plain mould. Steam gently
from i|- to 2 hours, and serve with a suitable sauce.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, 9d. Sufficient for 5 or 6
persons.
1 862. — HUNTER PUDDING. (Fr. — Pouding Chasseur. )
Ingredients. — 12 ozs. of flour, 4 ozs. of finely-chopped suet, 6 ozs. of
raisins stoned and halved, 3 ozs. of sugar, 1 teaspoonful of baking-
powder, £ of a pint of milk or water, salt.
Method. — Add the suet, raisins, sugar, baking-powder, and a good
pinch of salt to the flour, mix well, and stir in the milk or water. Shape
the mixture into 1 large or 2 small rolls, tie in pudding cloths, and
boil for about 2 hours. If preferred, the mixture may be made more
moist and steamed in a basin.
Time.— From 2f to 3 hours. Average Cost, yd. Sufficient for 6 or 7
persons.
1863. — ITALIAN PUDDING. (Fr.— Pouding a
l’ltalienne.)
Ingredients. — 1 oz. of crumbled cake, 1 oz. of breadcrumbs, 6 maca-
roons pounded, 1 oz. of shredded candied peel, b an oz. of sultanas,
\ an oz. of pistachios shredded, the yolks of 5 eggs and the whites of
2 eggs, 1 tablespoonful of rum or brandy.
Method. — Mix all the ingredients well together, turn the mixture into
a well-bnttered mould, and steam gently from 1 to i| hours. Serve
with custard sauce No. 332.
Time. — From to 2\ hours. Average Cost, is. 3d. Sufficient for
5 or 6 persons.
1864. — ITALIAN PUDDING. (Another Recipe.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of apples sliced, \ a lb. of dates stoned, \ a lb. of
raisins stoned, 2 ozs. of mixed peel shredded, 2 ozs. of Savoy or
other plain cake-crumbs, 2 eggs, 7f of a pint of milk, sugar, nutmeg.
Method. — Make a custard of the eggs and milk, stir in the cake-
crumbs, and sweeten to taste. Mix the dates, raisins, and peel together,
and add a little nutmeg. Place the apple at the bottom of a piedish,
add the mixed fruit, and pour in the custard. Bake in a rather cool
oven for f of an hour, and serve either hot or cold.
Time. — About 1 \ hours. Average Cost, about is. 2d. Sufficient for 5 or
6 persons.
954
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1865. — JENNY LIND PUDDING.
Ingredients. — 3 or 4 stale sponge cakes, 3 or 4 cocoanut cakes, 12 rata-
fias, 2 eggs, 1 pint of milk, sugar, 1 tablespoon ful of desiccated cocoa-
nut.
Method. — Slice the sponge cakes, and place them in a buttered pie-
dish interspersed with the cocoanut cakes and ratafias. Simmer the
cocoanut in the milk for 20 minutes, cool slightly, add the eggs and
sugar to taste, and stir by the side of the fire for a few minutes. Pour
the custard into the piedish, bake gently until set, then serve either
hot or cold.
Time. — About 50 minutes. Average Cost, is. to is. 3d. Sufficient
for 5 or 6 persons.
1866. — KAISER PUDDING. (Fr.— Pouding a l’Em-
pereur.)
Ingredients. — 2 ozs. of ground almonds, sugar to taste, 3 eggs, \ a pint
of cream, 1 dessertspoonful of orange- juice, blanched almonds, shredded
candied peel.
Method. — Separate and beat the yolk of the eggs, add 1 tablespoonful
of castor sugar, the ground almonds, and the cream gradually. Whisk
the whites stiffly, stir them lightly in, and add more sugar if necessary.
Have ready a mould well buttered and lightly covered with shredded
almonds and candied peel, then pour in the mixture. Steam gently
for it hours, and serve with a suitable sauce.
Time. — 2 hours. Average Cost, is. gd. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
1867. — LEMON PUDDING, BAKED. (Fr. — Pouding
au citron.)
Ingredients. — 2 lemons, 3 ozs. of castor sugar, 2 ozs. of cakecrumbs,
3 eggs, 1 gill of cream or milk, paste No. 1667, or 1668.
Method. — Cream the sugar and the yolks of the eggs together until
thick and white, add the juice of the lemons, the rinds grated, the
cream or milk, cakecrumbs, and lastly the stiffly-whisked whites of
eggs. Have ready a piedish with the edges lined and decorated with
paste ( see Apple Amber), pour in the preparation, and bake in a
moderate oven for about \ an hour, or until set. Sprinkle the surface
liberally with castor sugar, and serve hot.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, is. 3d. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
1868. — LEMON PUDDING, BAKED. (Another
Method.)
Ingredients. — 2 lemons, 2 ozs. of castor sugar, 1 oz. of butter, 3 sponge
cakes, 3 eggs, \ a pint of milk, paste.
RECIPES FOR PUDDINGS
955
Method. — Put the milk, butter, sugar and grated lemon-rind into a
stewpan, boil up, let it infuse for about 15 minutes, then pour over tire
well-beaten yolks of the eggs, stirring meanwhile. Add the crumbled
sponge cakes and lemon-juice, mix well together, and pour into a pie-
dish, the edges of which must be previously lined and decorated with
the paste ( see Apple Amber). Bake in a moderate oven from 30 to
35 minutes, or until the mixture is set, then cover with the stiffly-
whisked whites of eggs, and dredge liberally with castor sugar. Re-
place in the oven until the meringue hardens and acquires a little
colour.
Time. — About i|- hours. Average Cost, is. Sufficient for 6 or 7
persons.
1869. — LEMON PUDDING, BOILED. (Fr.— Pouding
au citron.)
Ingredients.— 8 ozs. of breadcrumbs, 2 ozs. of flour, 4 ozs. of finely-
chopped suet, 4 ozs. of sugar, 2 lemons, 2 eggs, milk.
Method. — Mix the breadcrumbs, flour, suet, and sugar together,
add the well-beaten yolks of eggs, the lemon-juice, and the finely grated
rinds, add milk gradually until a stiff yet thoroughly moistened
mixture is formed. Turn into a buttered basin and steam for about
2-J- to 3 hours. Serve with cornflour or sweet melted butter sauce.
Time. — About 3V hours. Average Cost, c;d. Sufficient for 6 or 7
persons.
1870. — MACARONI OR SPAGHETTI PUDDING.
Ingredients. — 1 oz. of macaroni or spaghetti, 1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of
sugar, 1 pint of milk, 2 eggs, the grated rind of \ a lemon or other
flavouring, salt.
Method.— Break the macaroni or ’ sparglietti into -ij-inch lengths,
put them with a pinch of salt into the milk when boiling, and
simmer until tender. Add the sugar, butter, lemon-rind, and the well-
beaten yolks of the eggs, stir the mixture by the side of the fire for a few
minutes, but do not let it boil. Lastly, add the stiffly-whisked whites
of eggs, then turn the mixture into a buttered piedish, and bake slowly
from 25 to 30 minutes.
Time. — About 1^ hours. Average Cost, 6d. Sufficient for 3 or 4
persons.
1871. — MADEIRA PUDDING. (Fr.— Pouding au
Madere.)
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of bread in small dice, 2 ozs. of castor sugar,
2 eggs, \ a pint of milk, 1 wineglassful of Madeira or sherry, 1 tea-
spoonful of grated lemon-rind.
956
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Mix the bread, sugar and lemon-rind together in a basin.
Boil the milk, pour it on the beaten eggs, stirring meanwhile, add the
sherry, and pour over the dice of bread, etc. Let it soak for 15 or
20 minutes, then pour into a buttered mould, and steam gently for
2 hours. Serve with custard, or wine sauce, or jam syrup.
Time. — About 2 J hours. Average Cost, 8d. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
1872. — MARMALADE PUDDING.
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of orange marmalade, 8 ozs. of breadcrumbs,
6 ozs. of finely-chopped beef suet, 2 eggs, a teaspoonful of baking
powder, a little milk.
Method. — Mix the suet, breadcrumbs, baking-powder, and a pinch
of salt well together. Beat the eggs, add the marmalade, and
when well mixed stir them into the dry ingredients. Beat the mixture
lightly, and if at all stiff, add a little milk. Turn into a buttered
basin or mould, cover with greased paper, and steam from 2-|- to 2J
hours. Serve with marmalade, cornflour, or other suitable sauce.
Time. — About 3|- hours. Average Cost, 8d. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
1873. — MARMALADE PUDDING, BAKED.
Ingredients. — 1 large tablespoonful of marmalade, 1 dessertspoonful
of flour, 1 dessertspoonful of breadcrumbs, 2 eggs, ij>- ozs. of butter,
i-J- ozs. of sugar, paste No. 1667, or 1668.
Method. — Cream the butter and sugar together until smooth, add
the eggs, and beat well. Stir the marmalade, flour and breadcrumbs
in lightly, and pour the mixture into a piedish, the edge of which
must be previously lined as directed in the recipe for Apple Amber,
No. 1676. Bake in a moderately hot oven for about \ an hour, then
dredge well with castor sugar, and serve.
Time. — From 40 to 45 minutes. Average Cost, 8d. Sufficient for 4
persons.
1874. — MARROW PUDDING. ( Fr . — Pouding a la
Moelle.)
Ingredients. — 6 ozs. of finely-chopped beef marrow, 6 ozs. of bread-
crumbs, 4 ozs. of sugar, 2 ozs. of finely-shredded mixed candied peel,
2 ozs. of glace cherries, 1 tablespoonful of brandy or sherry, 3 eggs.
Method. — Cream the yolks of the eggs and the sugar together until
thick and smooth, add the marrow, breadcrumbs, peel, cherries cut
into small pieces, brandy or sherry, and mix well together. Whisk
the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and add them lightly to the rest
of the ingredients. Turn the mixture into a well-buttered mould,
and bake in a moderate oven for about \ an hour. Serve with a suitable
sauce.
RECIPES FOR PUDDINGS 957
Time.— About hours. Average Cost, is. 6d. Sufficient for 6 or 7
persons.
1875. — MERINGUE PUDDING. (iOc^Pouding
Meringue.
This name may be given to any pudding covered with stiffly-whisked
whites of eggs, such as Apple Amber, Chester Pudding, Savoy Pudding
and many others.
1876. — MILK PUDDINGS. {See Rice Pudding
Recipe, Tapioca or Sago Pudding, No. 1917,
Custard Pudding, No. 1828, and Cornflour
Pudding, No. 1820.)
1877. — MILITARY PUDDINGS.
Ingredients. — ^ a lb. of finely-chopped suet, -J- a lb. of breadcrumbs,
1 a lb. of moist sugar, the finely-grated rind and juice of 1 large lemon,
2 eggs.
Method. — Mix all the ingredients well together, turn into well-buttered
small cups, and bake in a moderate oven for f- of an hour. Serve
with a suitable sauce. If preferred, the puddings may be steamed
for the same length of time.
Time. — 1 hour. Average Cost, iod. Sufficient for 8 or 9 persons.
1878. — NEWMARKET PUDDING.
Ingredients. — 4 or 5 sponge cakes, 2 ozs. of muscatel raisins halved,
2 ozs. of mixed peel shredded, 1 oz. of currants, 3 ozs. of sugar, 3 small
or 2 large eggs, £ a pint of milk, 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of red currant
jelly.
Method. — Make a custard of the eggs, sugar, and milk. Slice the
sponge cakes, place them in layers in a well-buttered mould, and
between the layers add raisins, peel, and currants. Pour in the custard,
cover and steam gently for 1 hou r. Warm the jelly and pour it over
the pudding, just before serving.
Time. — To steam the pudding, 1 hour. Average Cost, about is. 6d.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
1879. — NORFOLK DUMPLINGS.
Ingredients. — Bread dough, boiling water, salt.
Method. — Let the dough rise to the same degree as when making
bread, then roll it into balls about the size of a very small egg. Have
ready a saucepan of slightly salted rapidly boiling water, cook the dump-
lings for 6 or 7 minutes, and serve at once. They may be served with
jam, treacle, butter and sugar, vinegar and sugar, or good gravy.
Time. — To cook, 6 or 7 minutes.
958 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1880. — NOUILLE PUDDING. (Fr.— Pouding aux
Nouilles.)
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of nouille paste, 8 ozs. of castor sugar, f an
oz. of butter, 1 oz. of finely-shredded mixed candied peel, 6 eggs, 1
teaspoonful of vanilla essence.
Method. — Roll the nouille paste out thinly, cut it into fine strips,
put them into rapidly boiling salted water, to which the butter has been
added, cook for 10 minutes, and drain well. Meanwhile cream the
yolks of the eggs and sugar together until thick and smooth, add the
peel, vanilla essence, the nouilles when sufficiently cool, and lastly the
stiffly-whisked whites of eggs. Turn into a well-buttered mould,
cover with a buttered paper, and steam from if to if hours. Serve
with a suitable sauce.
Time. — Altogether, about 3 hours. Average Cost, is. Sufficient for
6 or 7 persons.
1881. — OATMEAL PUDDING.
Ingredients. — 1 tablespoonful of fine oatmeal, 1 dessertspoonful of
flour, if pints of milk, 1 egg, salt.
Method. — Mix the oatmeal and flour smoothly with a little cold milk,
boil up the remainder, and add the blended oatmeal and flour. Stir
and boil gently for 5 minutes, add salt to taste, and, when cool, put in
the egg. Turn the whole into a buttered piedish, bake gently for 20
minutes, and serve with cream and sugar, or golden svrup.
Time. — 40 minutes. Average Cost, 4d. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
1882. — OMNIBUS PUDDING.
Ingredients. — 3 ozs. of flour, 3 ozs. of finely-chopped suet, 3 ozs. of
stoned raisins, 2 ozs. of golden syrup warmed, f of a pint of milk.
Method. — Mix all the ingredients thoroughly together, pour into a
well-buttered basin, and steam for 2 hours. Serve with a suitable
sauce.
Time. — 2-f hours. Average Cost, 4-fd. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
1883. — ORANGE PUDDING. (Fr.— Pouding a
l’Orange.)
Ingredients. — 4 oranges, 3 ozs. of castor sugar, 3 ozs. of cakecrumbs
or crumbled sponge cakes, 3 eggs, \ a pint of milk, salt, nutmeg, paste
No. 1667, or 1668.
Method. — Remove the rind of 1 orange in exceedingly thin strips,
place them in a stewpan with the milk, and bring to boiling point. Let
the preparation infuse for about 20 minutes, then pour it over the cake
crumbs, add the sugar, a pinch of salt, a sprinkling of nutmeg, the well-
RECIPES FOR PUDDINGS
959
beaten eggs, and the juice of the oranges. Have ready a piedish with
the edges lined as directed in the recipe for Apple Amber, pour in
the preparation, and bake in a moderate oven for about % an hour.
Dredge with castor sugar, and serve either hot or cold.
Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, iod., exclusive of the paste.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
1884. — OXFORD PUDDING. (. See Recipe for
College Pudding, No. 1817.)
1885. — PARADISE PUDDING.
Ingredients. — 3 ozs. of coarsely-chopped apples, 3 ozs. of sugar, 3 ozs.
of currants, 4 ozs. of breadcrumbs, 3 eggs, the finely-grated rind of
4 a lemon, salt and nutmeg to taste, 1 tablespoonful of brandy.
Method. — Mix all the ingredients well together, turn into a well-
buttered mould or basin, and steam for 2 hours. Serve with a suitable
sauce.
Time. — 2\ hours. Average Cost, is. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
1886. — PEARS, BORDER OF. (Fr.— Bordure de
Poires a la Reine.)
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of small stewing pears, 1- a lb. of loaf sugar, 2 ozs.
of castor sugar, 1 oz. of butter, 3 sponge cakes, 2 whole eggs, 1 yolk of
egg, the grated rind of \ a lemon, 1 inch of cinnamon, 1 gill of milk,
carmine or cochineal.
Method. — Peel and halve the pears, carefully remove the cores, place
them in a stewpan with syrup made with the loaf sugar, a pint of
water, a few drops of carmine, and cook the pears gently for about \ an
hour, or until tender. Remove the pears, reduce the syrup by rapid
boiling, and re-heat the pears in it before serving. Meanwhile beat
the eggs well, and add the castor sugar, lemon-rind, milk, and a few
drops of cochineal. Slice the sponge cakes, place them in a well-
buttered border mould, pour in the custard, and bake for about 40
minutes in the oven, in a tin containing boiling water to half the
depth of the mould. When ready, turn out on to a hot dish, arrange
the pears on the border, strain the syrup over them, and serve.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, is. 6d. Sufficient for 6 or 7
persons.
1887. — PEARS AND RICE. (Fr.— Poires au Riz
a la Marquise.)
Ingredients. — 1 tin of preserved pears, 4 ozs. of rice, 2 ozs. of castor
sugar, \ of an oz. of butter, about i f pints of milk, 2 eggs, the grated
rind of \ a lemon, salt, Maraschino or Curafoa. if liked.
960
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Pick, wash and drain the rice, place it in a stewpan with a
pint of milk, the castor sugar, lemon-rind, butter, and a good pinch
of salt. Cook until tender, then stir in the yolks of the eggs, and
when sufficiently cooked press the rice into a flat round mould, and
invert on to a hot dish. Meanwhile strain the syrup from the pears
into a stewpan, add a little liqueur, if liked, or a few drops of vanilla
essence, boil rapidly until considerably reduced, then put in the pears.
Allow them to remain until thoroughly heated, then arrange them in a
pyramidal form on the top of the rice, add a little syrup, sprinkle with
castor sugar, and cover with the stiffly- whisked whites of eggs. Dredge
well with castor sugar, and bake in a moderate oven until the meringue
is hardened and slightly coloured.
Time. — About 1^ hours. Average Cost, is. 3d. to is. 6d. Sufficient
for 6 or 7 persons.
1888. — PLUM PUDDING, CHRISTMAS.
Ingredients. — 8 ozs. of moist sugar, 8 ozs. of finely-chopped suet,
8 ozs. of sultanas cleaned, 8 ozs. of raisins halved and stoned, 8 ozs. of
currants washed and dried, 4 ozs. of shredded mixed candied peel, 4 ozs.
of flour, 4 ozs. of breadcrumbs, 2 ozs. of almonds blanched and shredded,
the grated rind of 1 lemon, 4 eggs, a saltspoonful of nutmeg grated, \ a
teaspoonful of salt, \ of a pint of milk, 1 wineglassful of brandy.
Method. — Mix all the dry ingredients together, stir in the well-beaten
eggs, milk and brandy, turn the mixture into 2 well-buttered basins,
steam from 5 to 6 hours.
Time. — To cook, from 5 to 6 hours. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient
for 8 or 9 persons.
1889. — PLUM PUDDING, CHRISTMAS. (Another
Method.)
Ingredients. — 8 ozs. of moist sugar, 6 ozs. of currants washed and
dried, 6 ozs. of raisins halved and stoned, 6 ozs. of finely-chopped suet,
4 ozs. of mashed potato, 4 ozs. of grated raw carrot, 4 ozs. of brown
breadcrumbs, 4 ozs. of flour, 2 ozs. of shredded candied peel, \ a tea-
spoonful of salt, 1 saltspoonful of grated nutmeg, 2 eggs, a pint of
milk.
Method.-— Boil the milk, pour it over the browned breadcrumbs, and
let them soak for \ an hour. Mix the dry ingredients together, add
the well-beaten eggs, and the milk and breadcrumbs when ready.
Turn the mixture into 2 well-buttered basins, and steam from 4 to
5 hours.
Time. — To cook, from 4 to 5 hours. Average Cost, is. qd. to is. 6d.
Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.
RECIPES FOR PUDDINGS 961
jSqo.— PLUM PUDDING, CHRISTMAS. (Another
Method.)
Ingredients. — 5 ozs. of breadcrumbs, 4 ozs. of flour, 4 ozs. of finely-
chopped suet, 4 ozs. of raisins, halved and stoned, 4 ozs. of currants,
washed and dried, 4 ozs. of moist sugar, 2 ozs. of shredded candied
peel, 2 ozs. of raw carrot grated, 1 level teaspoonful of finely-grated
lemon-rind, \ a saltspoonful of grated nutmeg, 1 good teaspoonful of
baking-powder, about \ of a pint of milk, 2 eggs.
Method. — Mix all the dry ingredients except the baking-powder
together, add the beaten eggs and sufficient milk to thoroughly moisten
the whole, then cover, and let the mixture stand for 1 hour. When
ready, stir in the baking-powder, turn into a buttered mould or basin,
and boil for 6 hours, or steam for 7 hours. Serve with a suitable sauce.
Time.— To cook, from 6 to 7 hours. Average Cost, is. 3d. Sufficient for
9 or 10 persons.
1891. — PLUM PUDDING. (Pouding Anglais.)
Ingredients. — 6 ozs. of flour, 6 ozs. of breadcrumbs, 6 ozs. of finely-
chopped suet, 6 ozs. of moist sugar, 6 ozs. of raisins, halved and stoned,
6 ozs. of currants, washed and dried, 1 heaped teaspoonful of baking-
powder, 1 saltspoonful of salt, \ a saltspoonful of ground mace, \ a
saltspoonful of grated nutmeg, about \ a pint of milk.
Method. — Mix all the dry ingredients well together, add sufficient
milk to mix into a. very stiff batter, and turn into a well-greased basin.
Boil for 6 hours, or steam for at least 7 hours.
Time. — To cook, from 6 to 7 hours. Average Cost, is. Sufficient for
9 or 10 persons.
1892. — PLUM PUDDING. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — % a lb. of flour, -J- a lb. of raisins, halved and stoned,
i a lb. of treacle, \ of a lb. of finely-chopped suet, 1 heaping teaspoon-
ful of baking-powder, a good pinch of nutmeg, a good pinch of salt.
Method. — Mix all the dry ingredients well together, then stir in the
slightly warmed treacle, turn the mixture into a greased basin, and
steam for 5 hours, or, if preferred, boil for 4 hours.
Time. — To cook, from 4 to 5 hours. Average Cost, iod. Sufficient for
6 or 7 persons.
1893. — POUND PUDDING.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of finely-chopped suet, 1 lb. of currants cleaned.
1 lb. of raisins stoned, -f a lb. of breadcrumbs, \ a lb. of flour, 2 ozs. of
shredded mixed peel, 1 teaspoonful of ground ginger, \ a grated nutmeg,
-1- a pint of milk, 4 eggs.
962
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Mix all the ingredients well together, and add a little more
milk if necessary. Turn into a well-buttered mould, and boil for about
3 J,- to 4 hours.
Time. — About 4J hours. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for 9 to 1 1
persons.
1894. — PRIMROSE PUDDING.
Ingredients. — 6 ozs. of flour dried and sieved, 4 ozs. of castor sugar,
4 ozs. of butter, 2 large or 3 small eggs, the grated rind of £ a lemon,
vanilla essence.
Method. — Work the butter and sugar together until thick and creamy,
then stir in the eggs one at a time, and beat the mixture lightly for about
20 minutes. Now add the lemon-rind, a good pinch of salt, a few drops
of vanilla essence, and stir in the flour as lightly as possible. Steam
in a well-buttered mould from i£ to hours, and serve with custard,
wine, vanilla, or other suitable sauce.
Time. — Altogether, about 2 hours. Average Cost, 9d. Sufficient for
5 or 6 persons.
1895. — QUEEN’S PUDDING. (Fr.— Pouding a la
Reine.)
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of finely-chopped suet, 2 ozs. of castor sugar,
6 bananas sliced, 3 eggs, 1 breakfastcupful of whole meal, 1 breakfast-
cupful of boiling milk.
Method. — Mix the suet, sugar, bananas and meal together, add the
milk, and cover closely. Let the preparation stand for at least 1 hour,
then add the eggs and a little more milk if at all stiff, and beat well.
Turn into a buttered basin, steam gently for about 1 hour, and serve
with wine sauce.
Time. — To steam the pudding, about 1 hour. Average Cost, is. 4d.
to is. 6d. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
1896. — QUEEN OF BREAD PUDDINGS.
Ingredients. — 1 pint of milk, \ a pint of breadcrumbs, f of an oz. of
butter, 1 oz. of castor sugar, 2 eggs, the grated rind of 1 lemon, apricot
or raspberry jam.
Method. — Boil the milk, pour it over the breadcrumbs, add the sugar,
butter, lemon-rind, and when it has cooled a little, stir in the beaten
yolks of eggs. Place the mixture in a buttered piedish, and bake for
10 minutes or until set. Now spread on a thick layer of jam, cover
with the stiffly-whisked whites of eggs, and dredge well with casfor
sugar. Return it to the oven, and bake until the meringue hardens and
acquires a little colour.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, iod. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
RECIPES FOR PUDDINGS
03
1897. — RAISIN PUDDING, BAKED. (See Cottage
Pudding, No. 1821.)
1898. — RAISIN PUDDING, BOILED. (See Baroness
Pudding, No. 1780.)
1899. — RASPBERRY PUDDING. (Fr.— Pouding de
Framboises.)
Ingredients. — Raspberry jam, \ a lb. of breadcrumbs, J of a lb. of
castor sugar, \ of a lb. of butter, 3 eggs, brown breadcrumbs.
Method. — Cream the butter and sugar together until thick and smooth,
beat in the eggs separately, and add the breadcrumbs. Have ready a
well-buttered plain mould, coat it completely with brown breadcrumbs,
place a layer of the preparation on the bottom, and cover it thickly
with jam, taking care that it does not touch the sides of the mould.
Repeat until the mould is full, letting the mixture form the top layer.
Bake in a moderate oven from 1 to ij hours, and serve with custard
or other suitable sauce.
Time. — From 1^ to if hours. Average Cost, is. 2d. Sufficient for 5
or 6 persons.
1900. — RHUBARB PUDDING. (See Apple Pudding,
No. 1761, and Damson Pudding, No. 1832.)
1901. — RICE PUDDING, BAKED.
Ingredients. — 1 pint of milk, 3 tablespoonfuls of rice, id tablespoonfuls
of sugar, salt, nutmeg.
Method. — Pick and wash the rice, place it in a greased piedish, add
the sugar, milk, and a small pinch of salt. Sprinkle the surface lightly
with nutmeg, and bake in a slow oven for about 2 hours.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, 3d. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
Note. — Skim milk, and \ an oz. of butter, or a level tablespoonful of
finely-chopped suet, may be used instead of the new milk.
1902. — RICE MERINGUE PUDDING.
Ingredients. — 2 ozs. of rice, 1 oz. of castor sugar, or to taste, \ of an
oz. of butter, 1 pint of milk, 2 eggs, bay-leaf.
Method. — Put the milk, rice and bay-leaf into a stewpan, and cook
gently until the rice is tender. Let it cool slightly, then add the sugar,
butter, and the beaten yolks of eggs. Remove the bay-leaf, put the
rice preparation into a buttered piedish, cover with stiffly-whisked
whites of eggs, and dredge well with castor sugar. Bake in a moderate
oven for another 15 to 20 minutes, and serve hot.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 6d. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
964 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1903. — ROYAL PUDDING. (Fr. — Pouding Royale.)
Ingredients. — 1 oz. of fine Hour, 1 oz. of butter, 1 gill of milk, 4 yolks
of eggs, 5 whites of eggs, 1 dessertspoonful of castor sugar, 2 ozs. of
crushed Savoy biscuits, vanilla essence.
Method. — Melt the butter, stir in the flour, add the milk, and cook
and stir until it leaves the sides of the stewpan clear. Cool slightly,
add the sugar and vanilla, the yolks of eggs one at a time, beat well,
and then stir in the biscuit crumbs. Whisk the whites stiffly, stir them
lightly in, and pour the mixture into a well-buttered souffle mould.
Cover with a buttered paper, and steam very gently for 40 minutes,
or bake in a hot oven for 25 minutes. Serve with wine or jam sauce.
Time. — To cook the souffle, from 25 to 40 minutes. Average Cost,
iod., exclusive of the sauce. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
1904. — ROLY-POLY PUDDING.
Ingredients. — 8 ozs. of flour, 4 ozs. of finely-chopped suet, -§■ a teaspoon-
ful of baking powder, 1 saltspoonful of salt, 2 to 3 tablespoonfuls of
jam.
Method — Mix the flour, suet, baking-powder and salt into a stiff
paste with a little cold water. Roll it out into a long piece about
-4- of an inch thick, spread on the jam to within 1 inch of the edge, and
moisten the sides and far end with water. Roll up lightly, seal the
edges, wrap the pudding in a scalded pudding-cloth, and secure the
ends with string. Boil from i-\ to 2 hours, or bake in a quick oven for
half that length of time.
Time. — To prepare and boil, from 2 to 2\ hours. Average Cost, 5d.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
1905. — SAVARIN.
Ingredients. — 8 ozs. of flour, \ an oz. of yeast, 2 ozs. of castor sugar, 3
ozs. of butter, 4 eggs, 1 tablespoonful of cream, a little milk, salt.
Method. — Dry and sift the flour, put 2 ozs. of it into a warm basin,
add a pinch of salt, and make a well in the centre. Mix the yeast
smoothly with a little tepid milk, add it to the flour, work into a
smooth sponge or dough, and let it stand in a warm place until it
expands to twice its original size. Put the remainder of the flour into
a large basin, add the sugar, warmed butter, the eggs one at a time,
and a little tepid milk if required. Beat well for 10 or 15
minutes, add the dough when sufficiently risen, work in the cream,
and beat all well together for 10 minutes longer. Have ready a
well-buttered border mould, sprinkle the inside with ground rice and
fine sugar mixed in equal quantities, or finely-shredded almonds, or
cocoanut. Half fill with the dough, cover, and let it stand in a warm
RECIPES FOR PUDDINGS 965
place until it rises nearly to the top of the mould, then bake in a
hot oven.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, 8d. to iod. Sufficient for 5
persons.
1906. — SAVARIN WITH PINEAPPLE. (Fr. —
Savarin a l’Ananas.)
Ingredients — Savarin border, prepared as directed in No. 1905, preserved
pineapple, 2 tablespoonfuls apricot marmalade, glace cherries. For the
syrup: |- of a pint of water, 3 ozs. of loaf sugar.
Method. — Prepare a border as directed in the preceding recipe. Boil
the loaf sugar and water to syrup, add to it the strained apricot
marmalade, simmer until sufficiently thick, then put in the pineapple,
cut into dice, and allow it to become thoroughly hot. When ready,
place the savarin on a hot dish, baste it well with the syrup, then pile
the pineapple in the centre, garnish with cherries, and strain over the
remainder of the syrup. Variety may be obtained by using apricots
or peaches instead of the pineapple.
Time.— About 2 hours. Average Cost, 2s. to 2s. 3d. Sufficient for
6 or 7 persons.
1907. — SAVOY PUDDING. ( Fr . — Pouding a la Savoy.)
Ingredients.— 6 ozs. of stale Savoy or sponge cake, 2 ozs. of
butter warmed, about 2 ozs. of shredded mixed peel, 1 oz. of castor
sugar, 3 eggs, about ^ of a pint of boiling milk, \ glass of sherry or
Marsala.
Method. — Pass the cake through a fine wire sieve, add to it all the
ingredients except the whites of eggs, and beat well. Whisk the whites
of eggs stiffly, stir them lightly in, and pour the mixture into a buttered
piedish. Bake in a moderate oven for \ an hour. Or, bake the mix-
ture before adding the whites of eggs, which afterwards pile in a rocky
form, dredge liberally with castor sugar, and bake until set and very
lightly browned.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, is. 6d. Sufficient for 4 or 5
persons.
1908. — SAXON PUDDING. (Tv.— Pouding a la
Saxonaise.)
Ingredients. — 4 sponge cakes, 6 macaroons, 18 ratafias, 4 eggs, % a
pint of milk, J of a pint of cream, 1 glass of sherry, 2 ozs. of almonds,
a few glace cherries, angelica, vanilla essence.
Method. — Blanch, peel, shred and bake the almonds until nicely
browned. Butter a plain charlotte mould, decorate the bottom with
halves of cherries and strips of angelica, and sprinkle the sides thickly
966
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
with the prepared almonds. Fill the mould with alternate layers of
slices of sponge cake, pieces of macaroon and ratafias. Beat the eggs
well, add the milk, cream, wine, and a few drops of vanilla. Pour this
into the mould, cover with a buttered paper, and let the mixture stand
for i hour. Then steam from i\ to if- hours, and serve with fruit syrup,
German or other suitable sauce. This pudding is exceedingly nice
cold, with whipped cream as an accompaniment.
Time. — About 2\ hours. Average Cost, 2s. Sufficient for 5 or 6
persons.
1909. — SEMOLINA PUDDING. (Fr.— Pouding de
Semoule.)
Ingredients.— 1 \ pints of milk, 3 to 4 tablespoonfuls of semolina, 1
tablespoonful of moist sugar, 2 eggs, bay-leaf or other flavouring, salt.
Method.— Put the milk, with a good pinch of salt and the bay-leaf,
into a stewpan; when boiling, sprinkle in the semolina and cook gently
for 10 minutes, stirring meanwhile. Cool slightly, remove the bay-
leaf, stir in the sugar, yolks of the eggs, and lastly the stiffly- whisked
whites of the eggs. Turn into a buttered piedish, and bake gently
from 25 to 30 minutes.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, yd. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Note. — In place of bay leaf, lemon rind or cinnamon may be used.
1910. — SNOWDON PUDDING.
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of finely-chopped beef suet, 4 ozs. of breadcrumbs,
4 ozs. of castor sugar, 4 ozs. of raisins, stoned and halved, 1 oz. of glace
cherries halved, 1 oz. of ground rice, 2 eggs, \ a gill of milk, the grated
rind of 1 lemon, 2 tablespoonfuls of apricot marmalade or jam, \ a
teaspoonful of ground cinnamon, salt.
Method. — Decorate the bottom and sides of a well-buttered mould
or basin with some of the halved cherries and raisins. Put the re-
mainder into a basin, add the suet, breadcrumbs, sugar, ground rice,
lemon-rind, cinnamon, and a good pinch of salt. Beat the eggs,
stir in the milk and marmalade, and when well mixed, add them to
the dry ingredients and beat well. Pour the mixture into the pre-
pared mould, cover with a buttered paper, and steam from if to if
hours. Serve with fruit syrup or suitable sweet sauce.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, is. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
191 1. — SOMERSETSHIRE PUDDING.
Ingredients. — 3 eggs, their weight in flour, and the weight of 2 eggs
in castor sugar and butter, essence of vanilla, or other flavouring.
Method.— Follow the directions given for making Canary Pud-
ding. Turn the preparation into well-buttered dariols or cups, bake
gently for 20 minutes, or until done, and serve with either jam or
custard sauce. These puddings are sometimes served cold, with the
RECIPES FOR PUDDINGS 967
inside scooped out, and the cavity filled with jam or stewed fruij: and
cream.
Time. — About 40 minutes. Average Cost, 8d. Sufficient for 6 or 8
persons.
1912. — SPAGHETTI PUDDING. (See Macaroni or
Spaghetti Pudding, No. 1870.)
1913. — SPONGE PUDDING.
Ingredients. — 12 ozs. of flour, 8 ozs. of golden syrup slightly warmed,
4 ozs. of suet finely-chopped, 1 level teaspoonful of carbonate of soda,
milk.
Method. — Dissolve the soda in a little warm milk. Mix the flour
and suet together, stir in the treacle, add the soda, and a little more
milk if necessary, but the mixture should be rather stiff. Turn into a
greased basin, and steam or boil from 2-1- to 3 hours.
Time. — To cook the pudding, from 2\ to 3 hours. Average Cost, 7d.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Note. — See Canary Pudding, another variety of sponge pudding.
1914. — SPONGE CAKE PUDDING. ( See Finger
Pudding, No. 1845, Forest Pudding, No. 1846,
Jenny Lind Pudding, No. 1865, and Savoy
Pudding, No. 1907.)
1915. — SUET PUDDING.
Ingredients. — 12 ozs of flour, 6 ozs. of finely-chopped suet, 1 tea-
spoonful of baking-powder, £ of a teaspoonful of salt, cold water.
Method. — Mix the flour, suet, baking-powder, and salt together, and
add water gradually until a rather stiff paste is formed. Shape it into
a roll, wrap it in a pudding-cloth, which must be previously scalded
and well dredged with flour on the inner side, and secure the ends with
string. Put it into boiling water, and cook for about 2\ hours. Serve
with jam, treacle, stewed fruit, or, if preferred, good gravy.
Time. — About 2J hours. Average Cost, 6d. Sufficient for 6 or 7
persons.
Note. — The above mixture may also be made into dumplings, which require
boiling for two hours. For savoury dumplings, see Exeter Stew, No. 873.
1916. — SWISS PUDDING. (Fr. — Pouding a la
Suisse.)
Ingredients. — 6 large sour baking apples, about 8 ozs. of breadcrumbs,
brown sugar, butter, 6 cloves.
Method. — Pare, core and slice the apples. Cover the bottom of a
buttered piedish with breadcrumbs, add a layer of apple, sprinkle with
g68
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
sugar, moisten with water, and add i or 2 cloves and a tew small pieces
of butter. Repeat until all the materials are used, letting the bread-
crumbs form the top layer. Pour on a little oiled butter, cover with a
greased paper, and bake gently for about £ of an hour. As soon as
the apples begin to fall remove the paper to allow the surface to brown.
Time. — About £ of an hour, to bake the pudding. Average Cost, iod.
to is. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
1917. — TAPIOCA OR SAGO PUDDING.
Ingredients. — 1 pint of milk, 2 tablespoonfuls of tapioca or sago, 1
tablespoonful of sugar, or to taste, 2 eggs (optional), nutmeg, salt.
Method. — Boil the milk, sprinkle in the tapioca or sago, stir until
boiling, and simmer gently until it becomes clear, stirring occasionally.
Add the sugar and a good pinch of salt, and when a little cool, the eggs,
beaten. Pour into a greased piedish, and bake in a slow oven for about
\ an hour.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 5d. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
1918. — TIMBALES OF SEMOLINA. {Ft.— Timbales
de Semoule.)
Ingredients. — x bottle of apricots, or an equal quantity of freshly
cooked fruit, 1 pint of water, 3 ozs. of semolina, 2 ozs. of castor sugar,
3 whole eggs, angelica, glace cherries, almonds, 2 tablespoonfuls of
cream, Maraschino, vanilla pod.
Method. — Simmer the vanilla pod in the milk until sufficiently
flavoured, then remove it (dry it and keep for further use), sprinkle
in the semolina and boil for a few minutes, stirring meanwhile. Let
it cool slightly, then add the sugar, and beat in separately 3 yolks and
1 white of egg. Continue the beating until the mixture is nearly cold,
then add the cream and stiffly-whisked whites of 2 eggs. Put the
preparation into well-buttered timbale or dariol moulds, and steam
for \ an hour. Meanwhile heat, between 2 plates, as many halves
of apricots as there are timbales. Boil the apricot syrup until well
reduced, and flavour it with a little Maraschino, if liked. When
ready, turn out the timbales on to a hot dish, place | an apricot on
the top of each, decorate with shredded almonds, strips or leaves of
angelica, and halves of cherries, all of which should be previously
prepared and warmed. Strain over the syrup, and serve.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 2s. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
1919. — TRANSPARENT PUDDING.
Ingredients. — 3 yolks of eggs, 2 ozs. of castor sugar, 2 ozs. of butter,
apricot jam.
Method. — Cream the butter and sugar together until thick and smooth,
then add each egg separately, beating meanwhile. Place a layer of
RECIPES FOR PUDDINGS
969
this preparation in the bottom of 6 well-buttered dariol moulds, add
to each a dessertspoonful of apricot jam, and cover with the remainder
of the mixture. Steam from 20 to 25 minutes, let them cool slightly
before turning them out, to lessen the probability of their breaking,
and serve with custard sauce.
Time. — About 50 minutes. Average Cost, pd. Sufficient for 4 or 5
persons.
1920. — TREACLE PUDDING.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of flour, 8 ozs. of finely-chopped suet, 2 ozs. of
breadcrumbs, treacle, the grated rind of 1 lemon, 1 teaspoonful of
baking-powder, salt.
Method. — Mix the flour, suet, baking-powder, and a good pinch of
salt together, and form into a stiff paste with cold water. Divide it
into 2 equal portions; with one line the basin, from the other portion
cut off sufficient paste to form the lid, and roll the remainder out thinly.
Put a layer of treacle in the basin, sprinkle liberally with breadcrumbs,
and lightly with lemon-rind. From the rolled-out paste cut a round
sufficiently large to rather more than cover the treacle, etc., in the basin,
moisten the edges of it with water, and join them carefully to the paste
lining the basin. Now add another layer of treacle, breadcrumbs and
lemon-rind, and cover with pastry as before. Repeat until the pudding
basin is full, then cover with a greased paper, and steam for 2\ hours.
Time. — From 2J to 3 hours. Average Cost, is. Sufficient for 8 or 9
persons.
1921. — VANILLA PUDDING. (Jr— Pouding a la
Vanille.)
Follow the directions given for making custard puddings, and flavour
the preparation with vanilla.
1922. — VERMICELLI PUDDING.
Ingredients. — 2 ozs. of vermicelli, 1 oz. of sugar, or to taste, 2 eggs,
1 pint of milk, lemon-rind, bay-leaf or other flavouring.
Method. — Boil the milk and flavouring ingredients together, add the
vermicelli broken into short pieces, and simmer until tender. Now take
out the bay-leaf, or whatever has been used, add the sugar and eggs,
mix all lightly together, and pour into a buttered pie-dish. Bake in a
moderate oven for about 30 minutes, then serve.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 6d. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
1923. — VICTORIA PUDDING. (Jr.— Pouding a la
Victoria.)
Ingredients. — 8 ozs. of finely-chopped beef suet, 4 ozs. of breadcrumbs,
3 ozs. of flour, 4 ozs. of apples, 4 ozs. of apricot jam, 2 ozs. of finely-
970
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
shredded mixed peel, 3 ozs. of dried cherries cut in quarters, 3 ozs. of
sugar, 4 eggs, 1 glass of brandy, \ a gill of cream.
Method. — Peel, core and chop the apples finely, and mix with them
the suet, breadcrumbs, flour, peel, cherries and sugar. Beat the eggs
well, add the jam, cream and brandy; when well mixed, stir them into
the dry ingredients, and beat well. Pour into a well-buttered mould,
cover with the buttered paper, and steam from i-| to 2 hours. Serve
with a suitable sauce.
Time. — From 2 to 2\ hours. Average Cost, 2s. 3d. Sufficient for 8 or
9 persons.
1924. — VIENNOISE PUDDING. (Fr. — Pouding a la
Viennoise).
Ingredients. — 5 ozs. of white bread cut into small dice, 3 ozs. of castor
sugar, 3 ozs. of sultanas picked and cleaned, 2 ozs. of finely-shredded
candied peel, 1 oz. of almonds, the grated rind of 1 lemon, 4 yolks of
eggs, \ a pint of milk, 3 tablespoonfuls of sherry, caramel ( see No. 155).
Method. — Blanch, shred and bake the almonds until well browned.
Heat the milk, add sufficient caramel or burnt sugar to make it a deep
nut-brown colour, then pour it on to the well-beaten yolks of eggs,
stirring meanwhile. Mix the bread dice, sugar, sultanas, peel, almonds,
and lemon-rind well together, add the sherry and prepared milk, etc.,
cover, and let it stand for 1 hour. When ready, turn the mixture into
a well-buttered mould, steam for about 2 hours, and serve with German
custard, arrowroot, or other suitable sauce.
Time. — About 3-]- hours, altogether. Average Cost, is. 3d. Sufficient
for 6 or 7 persons.
1925. — WASHINGTON PUDDING. (See Canary
Pudding.)
Add 2 tablespoonfuls of raspberry jam to the ingredients for the
same, and follow the directions given.
1926. — WELLINGTON PUDDING. (Fr.— Pouding
a la Wellington.)
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of finely-chopped beef suet, 4 ozs. of flour, 4 ozs.
of brown breadcrumbs, 4 ozs. of cleaned and picked’ sultanas, 1 oz. of
finely-chopped candied orange-peel, 4 ozs. of castor sugar, 5 eggs,
1 gill of milk, 1 tablespoonful of caramel ( see No. 155), \ a teaspoonful
of ground cinnamon, nutmeg, 1 small glass of Marsala or sherry. Apri-
cot or other suitable sauce. For the puree : 1 lb. of chesnuts, 2 table-
spoonfuls of cream, sugar, vanilla.
Method. — Mix the suet, flour, breadcrumbs, sultanas, peel, sugar,
cinnamon, and a pinch of nutmeg together. Beat the eggs well, add
RECIPES FOR PUDDINGS
971
the caramel and half the milk, and stir into the dry ingredients with
as much more milk as may be needed to thoroughly moisten the whole.
Pour the mixture into a well-buttered border mould, cover with a but-
tered paper, and steam from 2\ to 2f hours. Meanwhile shell, scald,
and skin the chesnuts, cook them in a very little milk until tender,
rub them through a fine sieve, sweeten to taste, add a few drops of
vanilla, and the cream. Invert the border on to a hot dish, pile the
puree in the centre, and pour the sauce round.
Time. — From 3 to 3J hours. Average Cost, 2s. to 2s. 3d. Sufficient
for 6 or 7 persons.
1927. — WELSH PUDDING.
Ingredients.— 8 ozs. of finely-chopped suet, 8 ozs. of breadcrumbs,
8 ozs. of sugar, the juice of 2 large lemons, and the finely-grated rind
of 1 lemon, 2 eggs.
Method. — Mix all the dry ingredients together, add the eggs, and a
little milk if the mixture appears too stiff. Turn into a buttered basin,
steam or boil from 3!- to 4 hours, and serve with a suitable sauce.
Time. — From 3-J to 4 hours. Average Cost, is. Sufficient for 5 or 6
persons.
1928. — WEST RIDING PUDDING.
Ingredients. — Jam, 4 ozs. of flour, 3 ozs. of castor sugar, 2 ozs. of butter,
2 eggs, 1 teaspoonful of baking-powder, a little milk, paste No. 1667,
or 1668.
Method. — Line and decorate a piedish with paste as directed in
the recipe for Apple Amber, p. 890. Cream the butter and sugar
together until thick and smooth, and add the eggs, one at a time.
Beat thoroughly, then stir in the baking-powder and flour as lightly
as possible, and add milk gradually until the mixture drops readily
from the spoon. Place a thick layer of jam on the bottom of the
prepared piedish, pour in the mixture, and bake from 1 to if hours.
Dredge well with castor sugar, and serve either hot or cold.
Time. — From if to if hours. Average Cost, is. Sufficient for 6 or 7
persons.
1929. — WINDSOR PUDDING.
Ingredients. — 6 apples, 1 oz. of castor sugar, 1 oz. of Carolina rice,
1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, f a teaspoonful of finely-grated lemon-
rind, 4 whites of eggs, milk.
Method. — Boil the rice in milk until quite tender, and drain well.
Bake or stew the apples until soft, pass them through a fine sieve, and
stir in the sugar, rice, lemon-rind and lemon-juice. Whisk the whites
stiffly, stir them lightly in, and turn into a buttered basin. Steam as
972
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
gently as possible for about 40 minutes, and serve with custard sauce
made with the yolks of the eggs.
Time. — To steam the pudding, about 40 minutes. Average Cost, is.
to is. 2d. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
I93o._ YORKSHIRE PUDDING.
Ingredients. — 1 pint of milk, 2 eggs, 4 heaped tablespoonfuls of flour,
salt, dripping.
Method. — Put the flour and a good pinch of salt into a basin, make a
well in the centre, break in the eggs, stir, gradually mixing in the flour
from the sides, and add milk by degrees until a thick smooth batter is
formed. Now beat well for 10 minutes, then add the remainder of the
milk, cover, and let it stand for at least 1 hour. When ready to use,
cover the bottom of a pudding-tin with a thin layer of dripping taken
from the meat-tin, and while the tin and dripping are getting thoroughly
hot in the oven, give the batter another good beating. Bake the pud-
ding for 10 minutes in a hot oven to partially cook the bottom, or, if
more convenient, place the hottest shelf from the oven on the meat
stand, and at once put the pudding in front of the fire, and cook it until
set and well-browned. “ Yorkshire ” pudding is always cooked in
front of the fire ; when baked in the oven, the term “ batter pudding ”
is applied to it by the people in the county whence it derives its name.
Time. — About 40 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. Sufficient for 5 or 6
persons.
1 93 T. —YORKSHIRE PUDDING WITH RAISINS.
(See Yorkshire Pudding, No. 1930.)
Sultana raisins or currants may be sprinkled in after the batter has
been poured into the tin. This pudding is frequently served with gravy,
and, as a rule, before the meat.
I932.— YORKSHIRE PUDDING, BOILED. (See
Batter Pudding, Boiled, No. 1782.)
Souffles
I933>_ APRICOT SOUFFLE. (Fr— Souffle aux
Abricots.)
Ingredients. — 6 fresh or tinned apricots, 4 ozs. of Vienna flour, 2 ozs.
of butter, 2 ozs. of castor sugar, i a pint of milk, 3 yolks of eggs, 4 whites
of eggs.
RECIPES FOR SOUFFLES
973
Method. — Drain the apricots well, and pass them through a hair
sieve. Melt the butter, stir in the flour, add the milk (some of the milk
may be replaced by apricot syrup), and cook over the fire until the
mixture no longer adheres to the sides of the stewpan. Let it cool
slightly, then beat in the yolks of eggs, add the sugar, apricot pulp,
and stir in as lightly as possible the stiffly-whisked whites of eggs.
Have ready a well buttered souffle mould, turn in the mixture, and
steam slowly from 40 to 45 minutes. Unmould, and serve with a suit-
able sauce. Send to table as quickly as possible.
Time. — To cook, from 40 to 45 minutes. Average Cost, is. 2d. Suffi-
cient for 6 or 7 persons.
1934.— CHOCOLATE SOUFFLE. (Fr.— Souffle au
Chocolat.)
Ingredients. — 2 ozs. of fmely-grated chocolate, 3 ozs. of flour, 2 ozs.
of sugar, 1 oz. of butter, £ a pint of milk, 3 yolks of eggs, 4 whites of
eggs, \ a teaspoonful of vanilla essence, custard, or other suitable
sweet sauce.
Method. — Place the milk and chocolate in a small stewpan, and
simmer gently until dissolved. Melt the butter, stir in the flour, add
the chocolate mixture, and boil well. Let it cool a little, add the
vanilla, sugar, the yolks of eggs one at a time, give the whole a good
beating, then stir in as lightly as possible the stiffiy-wdiisked whites
of eggs. Turn into a well-buttered mould, and steam gently from
45 to 50 minutes. Serve the sauce round the dish.
Time. — To prepare and cook, from 15- to i£ hours. Average Cost,
is., including the sauce. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
I935-— CUSTARD SOUFFLE.
Ingredients. — 2 ozs. of butter, 2 ozs. of flour, \ a pint of milk, 4 eggs,
2 tablespoonfuls of castor sugar.
Method. — Melt the butter in a stewpan, stir in the flour, and add the
milk. Boil up and cook over the fire for 5 minutes, stirring briskly
meanwhile, then add the sugar and beat in the yolks of the eggs. Whisk
the whites stiffly, stir them lightly in, turn the mixture into a buttered
piedish, and bake in a hot oven for about 20 minutes. Serve with
wine or fruit sauce.
Time. — To bake the souffle, about 20 minutes. Average Cost, 8d.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
1936.— ORANGE SOUFFLE. (Fr.— Souffle a
l’Orange.)
Ingredients. — 1 orange, 3 ozs. of cakecrumbs, 3 ozs. of breadcrumbs,
2 ozs. of castor sugar, 1 oz. of butter, 2 eggs, J of a pint of milk, \ small
glass of noyeau, a few glace cherries.
974
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Boil the milk, pour it over the crumbs, and let them soak
while the other ingredients are being prepared. Cream the butter and
sugar as usual, add the yolks and i white of egg, and beat well.
Now add -§- the rind of the orange, grated or finely-chopped, a dessert-
spoonful of orange-juice, noyeau, and the cakecrumbs. Turn the
mixture into a buttered souffle dish, and bake from 25 to 30 minutes
in a moderately hot oven. Have ready the remaining white whisked
to a stiff froth, spread it lightly over the surface of the souffle, dredge
with castor sugar, and garnish with the cherries. Replace in the oven
until the meringue acquires a little colour, and serve.
Time. — To bake, from 35 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, is. Sufficient
for 5 or 6 persons.
1937. — PINEAPPLE SOUFFLE. (Fr. — Souffle a
1’ Ananas.)
Ingredients. — Preserved pineapple, 4 ozs. of Vienna flour, 4 ozs. of
castor sugar, 4 ozs. of butter, \ a pint of milk, 3 eggs, 2 inches of vanilla
pod, angelica.
Method. — Bring the milk and vanilla pod to boiling point, then draw
the stewpan aside for \ an hour for the contents to infuse. Meanwhile
heat the butter in another stewpan, stir in the flour, cook over the fire
for 4 or 5 minutes, then add the strained milk, and stir and boil well.
Let it cool slightly, then beat in the yolks of eggs, add the sugar, 2
good tablespoonfuls of pineapple cut into small dice, and very lightly
stir in the stiffly- whisked whites of eggs. Have ready a well-buttered
souffle mould with the bottom decorated with strips, circles, or other
fancifully-cut pieces of angelica and pineapple, pour in the mixture,
cover with a buttered paper, and steam very gently from 45 to 60
minutes. Unmould and serve as quickly as possible, with pineapple
or other suitable sweet sauce.
Time. — From 1 to i|- hours, altogether. Average Cost, is. 6d. to is. 9d.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
1938. — PRUNE SOUFFLE. (Fr. — Souffle aux
Pruneaux.)
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of prunes, 4 ozs. of castor sugar, 1 oz. of flour,
1 an oz. of butter, \ an oz. of almonds blanched and shredded, 1 lemon,
3 eggs.
Method. — Wash the prunes and soak them in cold water for 3 or 4
hours. Then place them in a jar with the lemon-rind pared as thinly
as possible, and a little cold water, and cook until tender. When cold,
remove the stones, and cut the prunes into small pieces. Cream the
yolks of the eggs and sugar together, stir in the flour, add half of the
RECIPES FOR SOUFFLES
975
prepared almonds, i teaspoonful of lemon-juice and the prunes, and
mix well. Whisk the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, add half of'it
lightly to the rest of the ingredients, and pour the mixture into a
buttered souffle dish or piedish. Bake for about 15 minutes in a
moderate oven, then pile the remainder of the whites of eggs on the
top, dredge with castor sugar, and scatter on the almonds. Replace
in the oven, bake from 15 to 20 minutes longer, and serve hot.
Time. — To bake, about 40 minutes. Average Cost, 9d. to iod. Sufficient
for 6 or 7 persons.
1939.— RASPBERRY SOUFFLE. (Fr.— Souffle
aux Framboises.)
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of ripe raspberries, 2 ozs. of cakecrumbs or bread-
crumbs, 2 ozs. of castor sugar, 2 ozs. of rice flour or cornflour, % an oz.
of butter, \ a gill of cream, 4 eggs.
Method. — Put the raspberries, cream, rice flour, and sugar into a
basin, and reduce them to a pulp by means of a wooden spoon. Beat
in the yolks of the eggs, add the cakecrumbs, stir in lightly the stiffly-
whisked whites of eggs, and turn the mixture into a well-buttered
mould. Bake in a hot oven from 25 to 30 minutes, and serve as quickly
as possible.
Time. — From 25 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, is. 2d. to is. 4d. Suffi-
cient for 5 or 6 persons.
1940.— RICE AND APPLE SOUFFLE. (Fr.— Souffle
de Riz aux Pommes.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of sour cooking-apples, 2 ozs. of ground rice,
2 ozs. of castor sugar, 1 oz. of butter, 3 eggs, f of a pint of milk, 2 table-
spoonfuls of moist sugar, or to taste, the rind of \ a lemon, thinly pared,
1 clove, \ an inch of stick cinnamon.
Method. — Cook the apples with 2 tablespoonfuls of water, the moist
sugar, butter, lemon-rind, clove, and cinnamon in a jar placed in a sauce-
pan of boiling water, and when soft rub them through a hair sieve.
Meanwhile mix the ground rice smoothly with a little cold milk, boil
the remainder, add the blended rice and milk, and simmer gently for
15 minutes. Now add the sugar, let the mixture cool a little, then add
each yolk of egg Separately, give the whole a good beating, and lastly
stir in very lightly the stiffly-whisked whites of eggs. Fill a well-
buttered souffle dish with alternate layers of rice and apple puree,
piling the last layer of rice in a pyramidal form. Dredge well with
castor sugar, and bake in a moderate oven for about 30 minutes.
Time. — To bake, from 25 to 35 minutes. Average Cost, is. Sufficient
for 5 or 6 persons.
976 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1941. — SEMOLINA SOUFFLE. (Fr. — Souffle de
Semoule.)
Ingredients. — \ \ ozs. of semolina, 1 oz. of castor sugar, \ a pint of milk,
3 whites of eggs, 2 yolks of eggs, the rind of \ a lemon.
Method. — Simmer the lemon-rind and milk together for a few minutes,
then add the sugar, sprinkle in the semolina, and cook until it thickens.
Remove the lemon-rind, let the mixture cool slightly, beat in the yolks
of eggs, and stir in lightly the stiffly-whisked whites. Pour into a well-
buttered mould, and steam gently for about x hour. Serve with jam
or custard sauce.
Time. — About 1} hours. Average Cost, 5d., exclusive of the sauce.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
1942. — STRAWBERRY SOUFFLE. (Fr.— Souffle
de Fraises.)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of strawberry pulp sweetened to taste, £ a lb.
of strawberries cut into dice, 2 ozs. of castor sugar, 2 ozs. of tine flour,
1 % ozs. of butter, 3 yolks of eggs, 4 whites of eggs, 1 gill of milk or
cream, carmine.
Method. — Reduce the strawberries to a pulp by passing them through
a hair sieve, and sweeten to taste with castor sugar. Melt the butter,
stir in the flour, add the milk, boil well, then incorporate the sugar and
strawberry pulp. Now beat in the yolks of eggs separately, brighten
the colour by adding a few drops of carmine, stir in the strawberries
cut into dice, and lastly, and very lightly, the stiffly-wliisked whites
of eggs. Pour the mixture into a well-buttered mould, and bake in a
hot oven from 35 to 40 minutes. Serve with a suitable fruit syrup
or sweet sauce.
Time.— To bake, from 35 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, is. iod. Suffi-
cient for 6 or 7 persons.
1943. — VANILLA SOUFFLE. (Fr. — Souffle a la
Vanille.)
Ingredients. — 1 oz. of fine flour, 1 oz. of butter, 1 gill of milk, 3 yolks of
eggs, 4 whites of eggs, 1 dessertspoonful of castor sugar, vanilla essence.
Method. — Melt the butter, stir in the flour, add the milk, and cook
and stir until the mixture leaves the sides of the stewpan clean. Let
this panada cool slightly, add the sugar and vanilla, the yolks of eggs
one at a time, and beat well. Whisk the whites to a stiff froth, stir
them lightly in, and pour the mixture into a well-buttered souffle
mould. Cover with a buttered paper, and steam very gently for 40
minutes, or bake in a hot oven for half that length of time. Serve with
wine or jam sauce.
Time. — 1 hour. Average Cost, 8d., exclusive of the sauce. Sufficient
for 3 or 4 persons.
RECIPES FOR OMELETS
977
Omelets
1944. — JAM OMELET. ( See Sweet Omelet, No.
1950, and Omelette Souffle, No. 1945.)
1945. — OMELET SOUFFLE. (Fr. — Omelette
Soufflee.)
Ingredients. — 3 whites of eggs, 2 yolks of eggs, 1+ ozs. of castor sugar,
1 of an oz. of flour, 1 tablespoonful of warmed jam, 3- of a teaspoonful
of vanilla essence, butter.
Method. — Work the yolks of the eggs and the sugar together until
creamy, stir in the flour and vanilla essence, and lastly, and very lightly,
the stiifly-whisked whites of eggs. Pour half the mixture into a
well-buttered souffle dish, place in jam, and the remainder of the
mixture, and bake in a quick oven for about 15 minutes. Turn it
on to a paper dredge with vanilla sugar to serve, and send to table
in the dish in which it is baked.
Time. — From 25 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, 8d. Sufficient for 3 persons.
Note. — The use of flour is not essential.
1946. — OMELET SOUFFLE, CHOCOLATE. (Fr.—
Omelette Soufflee au Chocolat.)
Ingredients. — 1 tablespoonful of finely-grated chocolate, 5 whites of
eggs, 3 yolks of eggs, 2 ozs. castor sugar, a few drops of essence of
vanilla.
Method. — Cream the sugar and yolks of eggs well together, add the
chocolate, vanilla, and lastly the very stiffly-whisked whites of eggs.
Turn into a souffle-pan coated with clarified butter, bake in a moderately
hot oven, dish up, and serve dredged with castor sugar.
Time. — To bake, from 10 to 12 minutes. Average Cost, iod. Suffi-
cient for 3 or 4 persons.
1947. — OMELET SOUFFLE. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 2 eggs, -|-anoz. of butter, 1 tablespoonful of castor sugar,
a few drops of vanilla essence or other flavouring, 1 tablespoonful of
warmed jam.
Method. — Cream the yolks of the eggs and sugar well together, and
add the flavouring. Whisk the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and
mix them as lightly as possible with the yolks, etc. Have the butter
ready heated in an omelet pan, remove any scum which may have
risen, and pour in the preparation. Cook over a quick fire until it sets,
then put it into a hot oven to finish cooking. Turn it on to a hot dish,
place the jam in the centre, fold over, dredge with castor sugar, and
serve as quickly as possible.
Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, sd. Sufficient for 2 persons.
978
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1948. — PLAIN OMELET. {See Sweet Omelet.)
By omitting the sugar, and adding salt and pepper to taste, this
mixture may form the basis of any omelette of this description ; herbs
should be beaten in before frying ; mushrooms, tomatoes, pimientoes,
kidney, fish, etc., should be cooked, divided into small pieces, and
folded in the omelette just before it is removed from the pan.
1949. — RUM OMELET. {Fr. — Omelette au Rhum.)
Ingredients. — 3 eggs, an oz. of butter, 1 tablespoonful of cream,
1 teaspoonful of castor sugar, a pinch of salt, 1 small glass of rum.
Method. — Beat the eggs well, add the cream, sugar, and the salt.
Bleat the butter in an omelette pan, pour in the eggs, stir until they
begin to set, then fold quickly towards the handle of the pan. Cook
a little longer to brown the under surface, then turn on to a hot dish,
pour the rum round, light it, and serve at once.
Time. — About 10 minutes. Average Cost, 9d. Sufficient for 2 persons.
1950. — SWEET OMELET. {Fr.— Omelette Sucree.)
Ingredients. — 4 fresh eggs, 1 tablespoonful of cream or milk, 1 oz. of
fresh butter, 1 teaspoonful of castor sugar, a pinch of salt.
Method. — Beat the eggs well, and add the salt, sugar, and cream or
milk. Heat the butter in an omelette pan, then pour in the eggs,
stir with a spoon or fork until they begin to set, and fold towards the side
of the pan in the form of a crescent. Cook for 1 minute longer, then
turn on to a hot dish, dredge with castor sugar, and serve as quickly
as possible.
Time. — 6 or 8 minutes. Average Cost, 8d. Sufficient for 2 or 3 persons.
Note. — Variety may be introduced by adding a little warm jam or fruit-
puree ; it should be spread lightly in the centre of the omelet just before it is
folded over.
Fritters
1951. — ALMOND FRITTERS.
{Fr. — Beignets d’Amandes.)
Ingredients. — -2 ozs. of ground almonds, \ oz. cornflour, 2 eggs,
1 oz. of castor sugar, a few drops of vanilla.
Method. — Stir the yolks of the eggs and the sugar together until
creamy, then add the almonds, vanilla, cornflour, and the whites of
eggs, stiffly whisked. Have ready a pan of hot frying-fat, clarified
butter and olive oil, drop in the prepared mixture in teaspoonfuls,
and fry until they become a pale brown colour. Drain, and serve as
hot as possible.
Time. — To make and cook, about 30 minutes. Average Cost, 6d.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
RECIPES FOR FRITTERS 979
1952. — APPLE FRITTERS. ( Fr . — Beignets de
Pommes.)
Ingredients. — 4 apples, 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of
warm water, 1 dessertspoonful of salad-oil, or oiled butter, 1 white of
egg, salt, sugar, frying-fat.
Method. — Pare, and core the apples, cut them into slices of even
thickness, sprinkle them well with sugar, and let them remain thus for \
hour. Sift the flour and salt in a basin, add the oil and the water
gradually, stir until smoothly mixed, then beat well. Let the mixture
stand for at least 1 hour, and then stir in the stiffly-whisked white
of egg. Dip each apple ring into the batter, take it up on the point
of a skewer, and drop at once into hot fat. Fry rather slowly until
crisp and lightly-browned, then drain well, dredge with castor sugar,
and serve as quickly as possible.
Time. — Altogether, about 1 hour. Average Cost, 6d. Sufficient for
5 or 6 persons.
1953. — APRICOT FRITTERS. (Fr.— Beignets
d’Abricots.)
Ingredients. — 10 to 12 apricots (preserved fruit will do), castor sugar,
ground cinnamon, frying-fat. For the yeast batter: 8 ozs. of flour, £
of an oz. of yeast, 1} ozs. of oiled butter, milk, \ a teaspoonful of
castor sugar, a pinch of salt.
Method. — Cream the yeast smoothly with a little tepid milk, add
2 ozs. of flour, mix into a light dough, and let it rise in a warm place.
When it has risen to nearly twice its original size add the salt, sugar,
warm butter, flour, and as much tepid milk as is needed to form a light
dough. Let it rise again, and meanwhile drain the apricots from the
syrup. Cover the halves of the apricots completely with a thin coating
of dough, place them on a well-buttered paper, let them remain near
the fire for about \ an hour, then fry in hot fat until nicely browned.
Drain well, sprinkle with castor sugar and cinnamon, then serve.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, 1 id. Sufficient for 8 or 9 persons.
Note. — For a quicker method, see preceding recipe, and use apricots instead
of apples.
1954. — BANANA FRITTERS. ( Fr . — Beignets de
Bananes.)
Ingredients. — 6 firm bananas, frying-batter ( see No. 1645, or 1647),
castor sugar, frying-fat.
Method. — Cut each banana lengthwise and across, thus forming 4
portions. Coat them completely with the prepared batter, fry them
in hot fat until nicely browned, and drain well. Sprinkle with castor
sugar, and serve.
Time. — Altogether, about f hour. Average Cost, 8d. Sufficient for 5
or 6 persons.
g8o HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1955. — BEETROOT FRITTERS. {Fr. — Beignets de
Betterave.)
Ingredients. — 1 large cooked beetroot, 3 yolks of eggs, 1 tablespoonful
of flour, sugar to taste, \ a teaspoonful of lemon-rind, a good pinch of
nutmeg, frying-batter ( see Apple Fritters, No. 1952), frying-fat.
Method. — Pass the beetroot through a fine sieve, sprinkle in the flour,
add the yolks of eggs, lemon-rind, and nutmeg, and sweeten to taste.
Stir over a slow fire for 10 minutes, and put aside until cold. Drop
the mixture in dessertspoonfuls into the batter, drain slightly, and fry
in hot fat until crisp and lightly browned. Drain well, and serve
dredged with castor sugar. Another variety of fritters is prepared
with cooked beetroot thickly sliced, coated with sweet or savoury
batter, and fried as directed above.
Time. — Altogether, \ an hour. Average Cost, yd. Sufficient for 5 or 6
persons.
1956. — BREAD FRITTERS. ( Fr . — Beignets de
Pain.)
Ingredients. — 2 French dinner rolls, 2 yolks of eggs, \ a pint of milk,
\ small glass of Maraschino, ground cinnamon, clarified butter.
Method. — Rasp the crusts, cut the rolls into ^-inch slices, and place
them in a deep dish. Beat the yolks of eggs well, add the milk and
Maraschino, sweeten to taste, and pour over the bread. Let it soak
for about 15 minutes, then drain well, and fry golden brown in the
clarified butter. Drain, sprinkle with castor sugar and cinnamon,
then serve.
Time. — About 40 minutes. Average Cost, iod. Sufficient for 4 or 5
persons.
1957. — BREAD AND BUTTER FRITTERS. {Fr.—
Beignets de Pain au beurre.)
Ingredients. — 8 slices of thin bread and butter, jam, frying-fat, frying-
batter (see p. 881), castor sugar.
Method. — Make the batter according to directions given. Spread
half the slices of bread and butter with jam, cover with the remainder,
and cut into 4 squares. Dip them into the prepared batter, drop them
into hot fat, and fry slowly until crisp and lightly browned. Drain
well, dredge with castor sugar, and serve as hot as possible.
Time. — To fry, about 15 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. Sufficient for
6 or 7 persons.
1958. — CROQUETTES OF FRUIT. (Fr.— Croquettes
de Fruit.)
Ingredients. — £ of a lb. of cooking cherries, damsons or plums, \\ lb.
of Savoy biscuits or Genoese cake finely crumbled, 4 ozs. of sugar,
1 teaspoonful of finely-grated lemon-rind, a good pinch of cinnamon,
egg and breadcrumbs, frying-fat.
RECIPES FOR FRITTERS
981
Method. — Stone the fruit, place it in a jar with the sugar, and stew
gently until tender ( 'see Stewed Fruit). Strain off the juice, stir
in the cakecrumbs, lemon-rind and cinnamon, add juice gradually
until the right consistency is obtained, then spread on a dish to cool.
Form into cork-shaped pieces, coat carefully with egg and breadcrumbs,
and fry in hot fat until nicely browned (breadcrumbs may be used
instead of cakecrumbs). Serve garnished with strips of angelica.
Time. — About 3 hours. Average Cost, is. 6d. to is. 8d. Sufficient
for 6 or 7 persons.
1959. — CORNFLOUR OR CORNMEAL FRITTERS.
Ingredients. — 4 heaped tablespoonfuls of cornflour or corn meal, 2
eggs well beaten, \ a pint of milk, \ a saltspoonful of salt, frying-fat.
Method. — Mix the ingredients smoothly together, drop the batter,
a tablespoonful at a time, into hot fat, and fry until crisp and lightly
browned. Drain well, and serve with jelly, jam, or compote of fruit.
Time. — \ an hour. Average Cost, 3d. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
1960. — CURRANT FRITTERS. (Fr.—. Beignets de
Groseilles Rouges.)
Ingredients. — 3 tablespoonfuls of currants, 3 tablespoonfuls of boiled
rice, 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, sugar to taste, nutmeg, 3 eggs, \ a pint
of milk, frying-fat.
Method. — Mix the yolks of eggs with the flour, and add milk gradually
until a smooth batter is' obtained. Whisk the whites stiffly, stir them
lightly in, add the currants, rice, a good pinch of nutmeg, and sweeten
to taste. Drop the mixture, in small quantities, into hot fat, fry until
crisp and lightly browned, and drain well. Serve piled high on a hot
dish, and dredge well with castor sugar.
Time. — From 10 to 15 minutes, to fry the fritters. Average Cost, 8d.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
1961. — CUSTARD FRITTERS.
Ingredients. — 1 tablespoonful of cornflour, 1 tablespoonful of fine
flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of castor sugar, 2 yolks of eggs, \ a pint of milk,
1 saltspoonful of salt, vanilla essence, egg and breadcrumbs, frying-
fat.
Method.— Mix the flour and cornflour smoothly with a little milk,
boil up the remainder, and pour it over the flour, stirring meanwhile.
Replace in the stewpan, simmer gently for 4 minutes, add the sugar
and salt, and stir in the yolks of eggs. Cook gently for a few minutes,
add a few drops of vanilla essence, and spread the mixture on a dish
to the depth of \ an inch. When cold, cut into small rounds, coat them
982
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
carefully with egg and breadcrumbs, and fry in hot fat until lightly
browned. Serve with wine or jam sauce.
Time. — To fry the fritters, about 5 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. Suffi-
cient for 1 good dish.
1962. — FRIED PUFFS. (See Souffle Fritters, No. 1973.)
1963. — FRUIT FRITTERS. ( See Apple Fritters, No.
1952, Apricot Fritters, No. 1953, Banana
Fritters, No. 1954, and Gooseberry Fritters,
No. 1965.)
1964. — GERMAN FRITTERS.
Ingredients. — Slices of stale bread, eggs, and to each one add 2 table-
spoonfuls of milk and sugar to taste, butter, castor sugar.
Method. — Remove the crust, and cut the bread into inch-wide strips.
Soak them in the milk and egg mixture, drain well, and fry them in
hot butter. Roll in castor sugar, and serve piled on a hot dish.
Time. — 1 hour. Average Cost, 1 good dish, about 6d., including the
butter for frying.
1965. — GOOSEBERRY FRITTERS. (Fr.— Beignets
de Groseilles Vertes.)
Ingredients. — 1 pint of large gooseberries, frying-fat. For the batter :
2 ozs. of flour, 1 white of egg, 2 yolks of eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream,
2 tablespoonfuls of water, a pinch of salt.
Method. — Sift the flour into a basin and add the salt, then the yolks
of eggs, cream and water gradually, thus forming a smooth batter.
Let it stand for at least 1 hour, stir the stiffly- whisked white of egg,
and put in the gooseberries. Take up 2 or 3 at a time by means of a
tablespoon, lower them gradually into the hot fat, and withdraw the
spoon without separating them. Fry a golden-brown, drain well,
sprinkle with sugar, dish up, and serve.
Time. — About i7j- hours, altogether. Average Cost, 8d. Sufficient for
6 or 7 persons.
1966. — INDIAN FRITTERS. (Fr. — Beignets a
l’lndienne.)
Ingredients. — 3 tablespoonfuls of flour, the yolks of 4 eggs, the whites
of 2 eggs, jam or jelly, frying-fat.
Method. — Stir into the flour sufficient boiling water (about \ a gill)
to form a stiff smooth paste. Let it cool, then break in the eggs, and
beat thoroughly. Fill a dessertspoon with the mixture, form a cavity,
fill it with jam or jelly, and afterwards cover completely with the
mixture. Fry in hot fat, drain well, and serve immediately.
Time. — Altogether, about \ an hour. Average Cost, sd., exclusive
of the jam. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
RECIPES FOR FRITTERS 983
1967. — JELLY FRITTERS. (See Indian Fritters, No.
1966.)
1968. — ORANGE FRITTERS. (Fr.— Beignets
d’Oranges.)
Ingredients. — 4 or 5 oranges, castor sugar, frying-fat, frying-batter
(see Apple Fritters, No. 1952.)
Method. — Prepare the batter as directed. Remove the peel and pith
from the oranges, and divide them into pieces containing 2 or 3 sections,
according to size. Dip them in the batter, fry in hot fat until golden-
brown, and drain well. Dredge with castor sugar, and serve as quickly
as possible.
Time. — To fry the fritters, about 15 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. to 8d.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
1969. — PINEAPPLE FRITTERS. (See Apple Fritters,
No. 1952, Apricot Fritters, No. 1953, and
Banana Fritters, No. 1954-)
1970. — PLAIN FRITTERS. (See Souffle Fritters, No.
I973-)
1971. — POLISH FRITTERS. (Fr.— Beignets a la
Polonaise.)
Ingredients. — Pancakes, No. 1646, apricot marmalade, breadcrumbs,
crushed macaroons, 1 egg, castor sugar, ground cinnamon, frying-
fat.
Method. — Make the pancakes as directed, spread them with apricot
marmalade, and roll up firmly. Trim off the ends, and cut each pan-
cake across in halves. Mix the breadcrumbs and macaroons together,
having ^ of the former and J of the latter. Coat each piece of pancake
carefully with egg, roll in the crumbs, and fry in hot fat until nicely
brown. Drain well, sprinkle with cinnamon and castor sugar, and
serve.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, iod. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
1972. — RICE FRITTERS. (Fr. — Beignets de Riz.)
Ingredients — 3 ozs. of rice, i\ ozs. of sugar, + an oz. of butter, 3 ozs.
of orange marmalade, 2 eggs, i t pints of milk, frying-batter ( see No.
1645), frying-fat.
Method. — Simmer the rice in the milk until the whole of it is absorbed,
add the sugar, butter, marmalade and eggs, and stir over the fire for
a few minutes. Spread the mixture on a dish to the thickness of a an
inch, and, when cold, cut it into strips or squares. Dip these in batter,
fry in hot fat until crisp, drain well, then serve.
Time. — To cook the rice, about 1 hour. Average Cost, 8d. Sufficient
for 5 or 6 persons.
984 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1973. — SOUFFLE FRITTERS. (Beignets Souffles.)
Ingredients. — Choux paste, No. 1650, frying-fat, castor sugar.
Method. — Prepare the paste as directed, drop teaspoonfuls of it into
hot fat, and fry rather slowly until crisp and lightly browned. Drain
well, dredge with castor sugar, and serve.
Time. — To fry, about 20 minutes. Average Cost, 9d. to iod. Sufficient
for 6 or 7 persons.
1974. — SPANISH FRITTERS. (Fr.— Beignets
Espagnoles.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of flour, 4 an oz. of yeast, 1 egg, milk, 2 ozs. of
butter warmed, 1 saltspoonful of salt, frying-fat.
Method. — Moisten the yeast with a little lukewarm water, add the
egg, and stir it into the flour. Sprinkle in the salt, mix and beat well,
adding milk gradually until a very light dough is formed, then cover
and set aside in a warm place to raise for 2 or 3 hours. When ready,
work in the butter, shape the dough into small balls, and fry in hot fat
until crisp and lightly browned. Serve with sweet sauce.
Time. — From 2\ to 3^ hours. Average Cost, 6d. Sufficient for
6 or 7 persons.
1975.— STRAWBERRY FRITTERS. {See Gooseberry
Fritters, No. 1965.)
COLD SWEETS
CHAPTER XXXIII
Jellies, Creams, Cold Sweets, Ices, Water Ices, Sorbets,
Mousses, Ice Puddings, etc.
Preparation of Moulds. — Moulds, whether intended for creams or
jellies, should be thoroughly clean, and when possible rinsed with cold
water, before being used. In preparing them for decorated creams,
they are usually coated with a thin layer of jelly. To do this quickly
and satisfactorily it is necessary that the moulds should be quite dry,
perfectly cold, and the jelly on the point of setting when put into the
mould, which is turned over and over until thinly, but completely,
coated. The decoration is a matter of taste; it may consist of pistachio
shredded or finely-chopped, almonds, glace cherries, etc., and may afford
no indication of the composition of the cream. But just as frequently
the decoration consists of fancifully cut pieces of the fruit which,
reduced to a puree, forms the basis of the cream. This branch of cookery
affords almost unlimited scope for display of artistic taste. Success
in this direction depends largely on a suitable combination of contrast-
ing or harmonising colours, and the decoration being neat and uni-
formly disposed. Each section of the mould must be decorated separ-
ately, and the decoration fixed firmly by means of a little cool jelly,
which must be allowed to set before changing the position of the mould.
For this reason the process is a slow one unless the mould meanwhile
rests upon and is surrounded by ice. Without this aid the task is
almost an impossible one in hot weather.
Gelatine. — Much has been written on the subject of gelatine. Held
at one time in high estimation as a food, it was afterwards considered
of no value because it could not unaided sustain life. The object of
the experiments which ultimately led to this conclusion was to ascertain
the relative value of the albuminoids and gelatinoids. Liebig found
that animals fed on the latter substance died of starvation; but more
recent investigations have discovered that gelatine is a valuable nutrient,
for, although its elements lack the life-sustaining properties of the
albuminoids, they may to a large extent replace these nitrogenous
bodies in many constructive processes of the body. Hence, gelatine
is now regarded as an albumen economiser or albumen-sparing food.
985
986
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
The gelatine of commerce is prepared from the bones, etc., of animals
and certain other substances. It is obtainable in sheets, strips, and
powder, and the best qualities are almost entirely free from any un-
pleasant taste. Of the three forms in which it is sold, the sheet or
leaf gelatine is to be preferred, as it dissolves more readily, but
the packet gelatine may be substituted for leaf gelatine in all
the following recipes. However, when doing so, rather less than
the stated quantity must be used, and two or three hours’ soaking
should be allowed. It is always best to soak the gelatine first, and then
stir it in a small saucepan by the side of the fire in a very small quantity
of water until dissolved. Gelatine varies considerably in strength,
therefore it is impossible to state exactly how much will stiffen a
given amount of liquid under varying conditions. A little more is
required in summer than in winter, and when the cream or jelly is
to be put into one large mould instead of several small moulds; but at
all times it should be sparingly used, for an over-stiffened cream or jelly
is almost uneatable.
Jellies. — Jellies may be described as solutions of gelatine in water,
with wine, fruit, and other additions, and their clear, brilliant trans-
parency one of their chief recommendations. However, jellies of
this class do not comprise the whole list, for in addition there are the
opaque nourishing milk and egg jellies, and also those made of apples
and other fruit. Calf’s foot jelly, which is stiffened by the gelatine
extracted from the feet by boiling, has the advantage of being per-
fectly pure, but it is not more nourishing than the jelly made from
bought gelatine. When nourishing jelly is required, it is better made
from good veal stock. For ordinary garnishing and masking purposes,
jelly made from leaf gelatine is more frequently employed than that
made from meat. A plain lemon jelly answers admirably for coating
the moulds for creams; and variously coloured and flavoured, it forms
the basis of many other jellies. By adding a little gold and silver leaf
or a few drops of yellow, red, or green vegetable colouring matter,
considerable variety may be introduced at small cost. Pleasing effects
may be produced by filling the projecting divisions of a mould with
gold, silver, or coloured jelly, and the body of the mould with jelly
that differs either in colour or character. Of course the colours must
be blended artistically; bright-coloured creams, like strawberry, should
be very simply decorated; and the creamy-white of the almond or the
delicate green of the pistachio nut, imbedded in the amber-hued jelly
with which the mould is lined, contrast favourably with chocolate, as
also does finely flaked gold leaf.
To Clear Jelly. — The agent employed for this purpose is albumen,
of which substance the white of egg is largely composed. The shells
and lightly-beaten whites of eggs are added to the water, wine, etc.,
when cold, the whole being continuously whisked while coming to the
boil. At a temperature of i6o° F., the albumen coagulates, and as the
RECIPES FOR COLD SWEETS t)8 7
hardened particles rise to the surface they entangle and carry with
them all the insoluble substances with which they come in contact ;•
this forms the scum and the filtering medium, through which the jelly
must be afterwards passed and repassed until clear. The jelly should
always be allowed to simmer for a short time after it reaches boiling
point, but it must on no account be whipped, stirred, or otherwise
disturbed. A little lemon-juice or any other acid assists in the co-
agulation of the albumen.
Straining Jelly. — P'or this purpose a jelly-stand and bag are desirable
but not indispensable, for an inverted chair and a clean linen cloth
may be made to do duty instead. Whichever is used, it must be
previously scalded to prevent the jelly setting while running through;
and on a cold day, when the jelly runs through slowly, it is advisable
to place a basin of hot water in the midst of it to keep it warm. The
jelly-bag or cloth must never be squeezed, as a very slight pressure
will force through the particles of scum, and thus make the jelly
cloudy.
Creams. — The term cream is used to describe compounds of cream
and fruit, fruit-puree, etc., or custards, variously flavoured, stiffened
with gelatine, and more or less elaborately decorated. For this pur-
pose double cream is required, that is, cream skimmed off milk that
has stood for 24 hours instead of 12, or been well drained from the
milk after being separated. Cream is more quickly whipped to a
stiff froth when cold, and the air introduced by whipping should
be as cold as possible. The process should not be continued one
moment after the proper degree of stiffness is obtained; great care
being needed in this respect in warm weather, when the cream, if over-
whipped, is apt to turn rather quickly to butter. Apart from the
manipulation of the cream, an important factor in all preparations of
this description of which it forms a part, there are one or two points
which need careful attention. The gelatine, dissolved in a little wrater,
must be added at a certain temperature, for if it be too hot it causes the
cream to lose some of its lightness; if too cold, it sets in small hard lumps
instead of being intimately mixed with the whole. And again, after
the gelatine is added, the cream preparation must be stirred until just
on the point of setting, more particularly so when it contains fruit,
almonds, pistachios, etc., which would otherwise sink to the bottom
of the mould. On the other hand, if the mixture is allowed to become
too cold, it does not take the shape of the mould. It available, the
mould should stand in an ice cave or on ice until the cream sets firmly.
When creams have to set without this aid, they should be made the
day before, and kept in a cold place until required.
To Unmould Jellies and Creams. — It is much better to dip the mould
once into hot water than 3 or 4 times into lukewarm water; and as the
whole is immersed it is necessary that the top of the jelly or cream
should be afterwards dried with a clean cloth. One sharp “ up and
988
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
down ” jerk will instantly detach the mould of cream or jelly, which
should at once be placed on a cold dish, the hand being gently with-
drawn. In turning out a border mould too large to be covered by the
hand, the dish and mould together may be shaken sharply up and down
until the border is detached.
Sweets of this description are usually garnished with a macedoine
of fruit, whipped cream, or jelly. As a rule the jelly is chopped, and
the more coarsely the better is the effect, for large pieces reflect the
light, whereas finely-chopped jelly has a slightly opaque appearance.
Freezing Machines. — Recent years have introduced a variety of
machines for making ices, but the ordinary old-fashioned pewter
freezing pot still holds its own, and deservedly so, for it is reliable
and satisfactory in every way, although its use entails a little more
labour on the operator, and the process is slower than with the newly-
invented machines. Except in the case of souffles, a pewter pot and
pewter mould for freezing should always be used; neither copper nor
tin should come in contact with the ice. Nearly all the machines in
present use are supplied with an outer compartment constructed to
hold the ice and salt, and an inner receptacle in which the mixture
to be frozen is placed, and revolved by means of a handle.
Freezing Mixture. — The materials usually employed for this purpose
are ice and coarse salt, or freezing salt, the correct proportions being
i lb. of salt to 7 or 8 lb. of ice. More salt than this is often added
with a view to making the mixture freeze more quickly, which it does
for a short time, but the large proportion of salt causes the ice to
speedily melt, and the freezing operation comes to a standstill unless
the ice is frequently renewed. The ice tub or outer compartment of
the freezing machine must be filled with alternate layers of crushed
ice and salt. A good layer of ice at the bottom of the tub enables the
freezing pot to turn more easily and more quickly than if it were placed
on the bare wood.
The following mixture may be used for freezing purposes when ice
is not procurable : To 2 parts of sulphate of soda add i part of muriate
of ammonia, and i part of nitrate of potash. Each ingredient should
be pounded separately in a mortar. 4 ozs. of this mixture added to
1 gallon of water will be found a useful, though somewhat expensive,
substitute for ice and salt.
Preparation of Ices. — The mixture to be frozen is placed in the freezing
pot or inner receptacle of the freezing machine, and the lid firmly
secured. When the vessel has been quickly turned for a short time,
a thin coating of ice will have formed on the sides. This must be scraped
down with the spatula, and well mixed with the liquid contents, and
as soon as another layer has formed it must be dealt with in the same
manner. This, and the turning, is continued until the mixture ac-
quires a thick creamy consistency, when it is ready for moulding. To
ensure success the following rules should be observed —
RECIPES FOR COLD SWEETS 989
1. Avoid putting warm mixtures into the freezing pot, for the heat;
penetrating through the metal, would cause the ice to melt.
2. Add sweetening ingredients with discretion; too much sugar or
sweet syrup prevents the mixture freezing properly.
3. Avoid, as much as possible, the use of tin and copper utensils;
they are apt to spoil both the colour and the flavour of ices.
4. Carefully wipe the lid of the freezer before raising it, so as to
prevent any salt getting into the mixture.
Moulding Ices. — The ice, in the semi-solid condition in which it is
taken from the freezing machine, is put into dry moulds, and well
shaken and pressed down in the shape of them. If there is the least
doubt about the lid fitting perfectly, it is better to seal the opening
with a layer of lard, so as to effectually exclude the salt and ice. In
any case the mould should be wrapped in 2 or 3 folds of kitchen paper
when the freezing has to be completed in a pail. 1 part of salt should
be added to 3 parts of ice, and the quantity must be sufficient to com-
pletely surround the mould. It should be kept covered with ice and
salt for 3 or 4 hours, when it will be ready to unmould. When a
charged ice cave is available, the ice is simply moulded, placed in
the cave, and kept there until sufficiently frozen.
Unmoulding Ices. — Ices should be kept in the moulds, buried in ice,
until required. When ready to serve, remove the paper and the lard
when it has been used, dip the mould into cold water, and turn the ice
on to a dish in the same way as a jelly or cream.
Varieties of Ices. — Ices may be broadly divided into 2 classes, viz.,
cream ices and water ices. The former are sometimes composed
almost entirely of cream, sweetened, flavoured and elaborated in a
number of ways, but more frequently the so-called “ cream ice ” con-
sists principally of custard, more or less rich according to respective
requirements, with the addition of fruit pulp, crystallized fruit, almonds,
chocolate, coffee, liqueurs, and other flavouring ingredients. Water
ices are usually prepared from the juices of fresh fruit mixed with
syrup, fruit syrup, or jam, sieved and diluted with water or syrup.
In addition to these there are the demi-glace or half-frozen compounds,
now largely introduced into high-class menus under the names of
sorbet, granite or granito, and punch. This variety is always served
immediately before the roast, and always in small portions in sorbet
cups or glasses, never moulded ; and alcoholic liqueurs are more or less
used in their preparation. Parfaits, mousses, and souffles differ from
ordinary ices, inasmuch as the cream preparation is at once moulded
and placed on ice, thus omitting the ordinary preliminary freezing
process. In these, as in dessert ices, new combinations and moulds
of original design for their use are being constantly introduced, but
as the principal constituents of the preparations remain unchanged,
they present no difficulty to those who understand the general principles
of ice making.
990
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Jellies, etc.
1976. — ALMOND CHARLOTTE.
(See Charlotte Russe, No. 2032.)
Omit the brandy or sherry and vanilla essence, and add 1 tablespoon-
ful of coarsely-chopped, lightly-browned almonds and a few drops of
almond essence.
1977. — AMBER JELLY.
Ingredients. — b a pint of water, J of a pint of sherry or Marsala, \ of a
pint of lemon-juice, 6 ozs. of loaf sugar, 1 oz. of leaf gelatine, 4 yolks
of eggs or 2 whole eggs, the thinly cut rind of 1 small lemon.
Method. — Put all the ingredients into a stewpan, and whisk over the
fire until near boiling point, but do not allow it to actually boil, or the
eggs will curdle. Strain through muslin or a fine strainer, pour into
a mould and place in the cool to set.
Time. — About an hour. Average Cost, is. 4d. Sufficient for about
1 quart of jelly.
1978. — APPLE JELLY. (Fr. — Gelee de Pommes.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of apples, 3 ozs. of castor sugar, | an oz. of leaf
gelatine, 1 lemon, \ a pint of water.
Method. — Peel and slice the apples, put them into a stewpan with
the sugar, water, the juice and thinly cut rind of the lemon, simmer
until tender, and rub through a fine sieve. Melt the gelatine in 2 table-
spoonfuls of water, strain, and stir it into the apple preparation, and
turn into a prepared mould.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 6d. Sufficient for 1 medium-
sized mould.
1979. — APRICOT JELLY. (Fr.— Gelee d’Abricot.)
Ingredients. — 18 large apricots, ij- pints of syrup No. 2277, ii ozs. of
gelatine, 3 tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice.
Method. — Remove the stones, and slice the apricots thinly. Make
the syrup as directed, pour it boiling over the apricots, and add the
lemon-juice. Soak the gelatine in a little cold water, and, when ready
to use, stir it over the fire until dissolved. Allow the apricots to remain
covered until nearly cold, then strain through a jelly bag, stir in the
gelatine, and pour into a prepared mould.
Time. — About i-l- hours. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. to 3s. Sufficient for 1
quart.
RECIPES FOR JELLIES
991
1980. — ASPIC JELLY.
Ingredients. — 2 quarts of jellied veal stock, No. 9, 2 ozs. of gel-
atine, i of a pint of sherry, J of a pint of vinegar (preferably French
wine vinegar), the shells and whites of 2 eggs, 1 bouquet-garni (par-
sley, thyme, bay-leaf), 2 strips of celery.
Method. — Let the stock become quite cold, and remove every particle
of fat. Put it into a stewpan with the gelatine, herbs, celery cut into
large pieces, the egg-shells, and the whites previously slightly beaten
Whisk over a sharp fire until near boiling, and add the wine and vinegar.
Continue the whisking until quite boiling, then draw the stewpan aside,
let the contents simmer for about 10 minutes, and strain till clear
and use as required.
Time. — From 40 to 60 minutes, after the stock is made. Average Cost,
is. 2d., exclusive of the stock. Sufficient for 2 quarts of jelly.
1981. — ASPIC JELLY FROM CALVES’ FEET.
Ingredients. — 2 calves’ feet, 5 pints of cold water, 1 onion, 1 leek, 2
shallots, 1 carrot, 2 or 3 strips of celery, a bouquet-garni (parsley,
thyme, bay -leaf), 2 dozen peppercorns, salt, 1 lemon, 2 tablespoonfuls
each of malt and tarragon vinegars, 1 tablespoonful of chilli vinegar, the
whites and shells of 2 eggs, J of a pint of sherry (optional).
Method. — Wash, blanch and divide each foot into 4 or more pieces.
Replace in the stewpan, add 5 pints of water; when boiling skim care-
fully, add the vegetables cut into large pieces, herbs, peppercorns,
salt to taste, and simmer gently from 5 to 6 hours. Strain, and when
cold, carefully remove every particle of fat. Now place the stock,
the juice of the lemon and the rind finely-pared, the whites and shell
of the eggs in the stewpan, whisk over the fire until hot, then add the
wine and vinegar. Bring to the boil, whisking meanwhile. Simmer
slowly for 30 minutes, strain and use as directed on p. 987.
Time. — About 1 hour, to clear and strain. Average Cost, 2s. 9d. to 3s.
Sufficient for 1 quart.
Note . — When the jellied stock is not sufficiently stiff, a little French leaf
gelatine should be added when clearing.
1982. — ASPIC JELLY FROM GELATINE.
Ingredients. — 2\ ozs. of leaf gelatine, 1 quart of water, the whites and
shells of 2 eggs, 1 lemon, J- of a pint of malt vinegar, 1 tablespoonful
of tarragon vinegar, 1 onion, carrot, 2 or 3 strips of celery, a bouquet-
garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 10 peppercorns, 1 teaspoonful of
salt.
Method. — Whip the whites of eggs slightly, pare the lemon rind as
thinly as possible, and strain the juice. Put them with the rest of the
992
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
ingredients into a stewpan, whisk over a brisk fire until boiling, and
simmer very gently for about 20 minutes. Strain as directed on p. 987.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, iod. or nd. Sufficient for i-|-
pints.
Note. — Jelly of this description is used principally for lining and garnishing
moulds. If too stiff it may be diluted with a little water, or sherry, when
additional flavour is desired.
1983. — BRANDY JELLY. (Fr. — Gelee au Cognac.)
Ingredients. — 1 small wineglassful of brandy, 4 ozs. of sugar, 1 oz. of leaf
gelatine, the thin rind and strained juice of 1 small lemon, the stiffly-
whipped whites and crushed shells of 2 eggs, 1 bay-leaf, 2 cloves, 1
blade of mace, 1 pint of cold water.
Method. — Put all the ingredients, except the brandy, into a stewpan,
whisk gently until on the point of boiling, then draw the pan aside, and
let the contents simmer gently for 5 minutes. Strain through a jelly
bag until clear, add the brandy, and pour into a prepared mould.
Time. — About £ an hour. Average Cost, is. 2d. Sufficient for a pint
mould.
1984. — CALF’S FOOT JELLY. (. See Aspic Jelly from
Calves’ Feet, No. 1981.)
1985. — CHAMPAGNE JELLY. (Gelee au Vin de Cham-
pagne.)
Ingredients. — 1 pint of water, \ of a pint of champagne, J of a
pint of sherry, 6 ozs. of loaf sugar, 1 \ ozs. of gelatine, the juice and
finely-cut rind of 1 lemon, the juice and finely-cut rind of 1 small
orange, 2 cloves, 1 inch of cinnamon, the white and shell of 1 egg.
Method. — Put all these ingredients into a stewpan, and bring to the
boil, stirring meanwhile. Simmer for about 10 minutes, strain through
a hot jelly-bag or cloth, and pour into a wetted mould. When firm,
turn out as directed on p. 987.
Time. — About 40 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. to 2s. 6d. Sufficient
for i\ pints of jelly.
1986. — CLARET JELLY. (Fr. — Gelee de Bordeaux.)
Ingredients. — 1 pint of claret, f of a pint of water, \ of a pint of lemon-
juice, the thinly cut rind of 2 lemons, 6 ozs. of loaf sugar, ozs. of
leaf gelatine, the whites and shells of 2 eggs, a few drops of
cochineal.
Method. — Put all these ingredients into a stewpan, and whisk over
the fire until it boils. Simmer for about 10 minutes, then strain
COLD SWEETS
i. Chartreuse of Peaches.
36
2. Jubilee or Claret Jelly. 3. Apple Amber.
i i
993
RECIPES FOR JELLIES
through a scalded bag or cloth, add a few drops of cochineal to improve
the colour, pour into a wet mould, and put in a cool place to set.
Time. — About 40 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. to 2s. Sufficient for
if pints.
1987. — CLARET JELLY. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — a pint of claret, J of a pint of water, of a pint of rasp-
berry or strawberry jam or syrup, 1 tablespoonful of brandy, 3 ozs.
of loaf sugar, |- of an oz. of leaf gelatine, the juice and thinly cut rind of
1 lemon, cochineal.
Method. — Dissolve the gelatine in the water, add the other ingredients,
and stir by the side of the fire until well mixed. Simmer very gently
for 10 minutes, strain through muslin, add a few drops of cochineal to
improve the colour, and pour into a wet mould, and put to set in a
cool place.
Time. — About \ an hour. Average Cost, is. 3d. Sufficient for 1 pint.
1988. — COFFEE JELLY. (Fr.— Gelee au Cafe.)
Ingredients. — a pint of strong clear coffee, \ a pint of water, \ an oz.
(full weight) of leaf gelatine, sugar to taste.
Method. — Put the water and gelatine into a small stewpan, stir by
the side of the fire until dissolved, then pass through a fine strainer into
a basin. Add the coffee, sweeten to taste, and turn into a mould
previously rinsed with cold water. Turn out when set and serve.
Time. — From 20 to 25 minutes. Average Cost, 3d. Sufficient for 1 pint
of jelly.
1989. — CRAB APPLE JELLY.
Ingredients. — Crab apples, sugar, lemon-juice, gelatine.
Method. — Halve the fruit, place it in a preserving pan with cold water
to barely cover it, simmer gently until tender, then strain. Replace
the liquor in the pan ; to each pint allow 1 lb. of sugar and 1 dessert-
spoonful of lemon- juice, and simmer gently for i- an hour, skimming
meanwhile. Measure the liquor ; to each pint allow + an oz. of
gelatine, dissolve it in a little warm water, and strain and add it to the
contents of the preserving pan. Pour into a prepared mould or jelly
glasses, and serve when set. If closely covered the jelly may be kept
for a considerable time.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, yd. or 8d. per pint.
Note. — Also see recipes for Apple Jelly, No. 1978.
1990. — DUTCH FLUMMERY.
Ingredients. — 1 oz. of gelatine, castor sugar to taste, 4 eggs, the thinly-
pared rind and strained juice of 1 lemon, 1 pint of sherry, Madeira,
or raisin wine, 1 pint of water.
K Iv
994
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Soak the gelatine and lemon-rind in the water for 20
minutes, and afterwards simmer gently until the gelatine is dissolved.
Beat the eggs, add the wine, lemon-juice, the strained water and gela-
tine, and sweeten to taste. Stir by the side of the fire until the mixture
thickens, then pour it into a mould rinsed with cold water, and put
aside until set.
Time. — 40 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. 3d., if made with sherry.
Sufficient for 1 quart mould.
1991. - -GELATINE JELLY.
Ingredients. — 1 quart packet of calves’ foot gelatine, 5 ozs. of loaf
sugar, 2 lemons, the stiffly-whipped whites and crushed shells of 2 eggs,
\ a pint of sherry, d a pint of cold water, 1 pint of boiling water.
Method. — Soak the gelatine in the cold water for i- an hour, then put
it into a stewpan with the boiling water, sugar, whites and shells of
eggs, thin rind and strained juice of the lemons and the sherry. Whisk
the mixture until it boils, let it stand 10 minutes to clear, then strain
through a jelly bag or cloth.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, is. 6d. Sufficient for 1 quart.
1992. — GOLDEN JELLY. (Ft. — Gelee doree.)
Ingredients. — 1 quart of lemon, wine or other clear jelly, 2 to 3 gold
leaves.
Method. — Break the gold leaves into small pieces, stir them into the
jelly when on the point of setting, and pour into a mould as the
jelly commences to set.
Time, — 40 minutes. Average Cost, is. qd. to 2s. 9d. Sufficient for 1
quart.
1993.— GOOSEBERRY JELLY. (Fr.— Gelee de Grose-
illes Vertes.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of gooseberries, 3 ozs. of castor sugar, or to taste,
of an oz. of lead gelatine, the finely-cut rind of 1 lemon, \ a pint of
water.
Method. — Cut off the tops and tails of the gooseberries, put them
into a stewpan with the sugar, water, and lemon-rind, simmer until
tender, and rub through a hair sieve. Dissolve the gelatine in 2 table-
spoonfuls of cold water, and strain it into the mixture. Turn into a
mould previously rinsed with cold water, and put aside in a cold place
until set and firm.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 5d. or 6d. Sufficient for 1
medium-sized mould. Seasonable from April to July,
RECIPES FOR JELLIES
995
1994. — GRAPE JELLY.
Ingredients. — i-|- pints of wine jelly or gelatine jelly, black grapes.
Method. — Arrange the grapes and jelly in alternate layers (see Char-
treuse of Oranges), and, if liked, intersperse shredded almonds and
strips of pistachio kernels.
Time. — 1 hour. Average Cost, from 2s. to 2s. 6d. Sufficient for about
if pints'.
1995. — ISINGLASS JELLY.
Ingredients. — 1 oz. of patent isinglass, 5 ozs. of loaf sugar, the finely-
pared rind and strained juice of 2 lemons, the stiffly- whisked whites
and crushed shells of 2 eggs, \ a pint of sherry, -J- a pint of cold water,
1 pint of boiling water.
Method. — Follow the directions given for making Gelatine Jelly,
No. 1991.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, is. 9d. Sufficient for 1 quart.
1996. — IVORY JELLY.
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of ivory dust (to be obtained from first-class
grocers), 1 wineglassful of sherry, 1 clove, 1 bay-leaf, 1 blade of mace,
sugar to taste, 1 quart of water.
Method. — Put all the ingredients, except the wine and sugar, into a
stewpan, and simmer gently until reduced to 1 pint. Strain through a
jelly bag, when cold and set remove the sediment, re-heat the jelly,
add the wine and sugar to taste, strain into a mould, and put aside until
set.
Time. — About 12 hours. Average Cost, uncertain. Sufficient for a pint
mould.
1997. -JELLY, POLONAISE STYLE. {Fr.— Gelee a la
Polonaise.)
Ingredients. — i-J- pints of Maraschino jelly No. 2008, 1 pint of milk.
1 oz. of sugar, \ an oz. of cornflour, J- of an oz. of gelatine, 2 yolks of
eggs, 1 tablespoonful of Maraschino, a teaspoonful of vanilla essence.
Method. — Mix the cornflour smoothly with a little milk, boil the
remainder, and add to it the sugar, and the blended cornflour and milk.
Stir and boil for 2 or 3 minutes, then add the gelatine, previously
softened in a little cold water. Simmer gently until it dissolves, and
allow the mixture to cool a little. Now add the beaten yolks of eggs,
and stir by the side of the fire until they thicken, then strain the pre-
paration into a basin, and stir in the Maraschino and vanilla essence.
Pour into a flat-bottomed mould, let it set on ice, and cut into diamond
blocks of uniform size. Set these in a fancy border mould in layers
996
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
with jelly (see Macedoine of Fruit, No. 2001), arranging them sym-
metrically.
Time. — From 3-J to 4 hours, altogether. Average Cost, 2s. Sufficient
for 1 medium-sized mould.
1998. — JELLY IN COLOURS.
(See Marbled Jelly, No. 2007.)
1999. — JELLY WITH BANANAS. (Fr.— Chartreuse de
Bananes.)
Ingredients. — 6 or 8 bananas, 1 pint of lemon or wine jelly, Nos„
2020 and 2004.
Method. — Remove the skins from the bananas as required, as they
so quickly discolour. Cut them into rather thin slices, and arrange
them in jelly as directed in the recipe for Jelly with Oranges, No. 2002.
The greatest care must be taken to have the layers of fruit and the
spaces of jelly between them uniform.
Time. — From 1 to ij hours. Average Cost, is. 6d. to is. 9d. Sufficient
for 1 medium-sized mould.
2000. — JELLY WITH CREAM.
Ingredients. — 1 pint of red jelly (claret or port!, \ oz. each of pre-
served ginger, apricots, angelica, and cherries, all shredded, \ an oz. of
gelatine, % a pint of stiffly-whipped cream.
Method. — Place a deep layer of jelly at the bottom of a plain mould,
let it set firmly, put in a small round mould, or tumbler with straight
sides, and fill the outer space with cold liquid jelly. When firm, take
away the mould or glass , this may be easily done by filling it for a
minute or so with warm water. Dissolve the gelatine in a little hot
water, when slightly cooled add it to the cream, stir in the fruits, and
turn the whole into the prepared mould.
Time. —Without ice, 5 or 6 hours. Average Cost, 2s. 9d. Sufficient
for 5 or 6 persons.
2001. — JELLY WITH FRUIT. (Ft.— Macedoine de
Fruit a la Gelee.)
Ingredients. — 1-| pints of lemon or wine jelly, Nos. 2020 and 2004, mixed
fruit, such as grapes, strawberries, red and white currants, small slices
or dice of pineapple, peaches and apricots.
Method. — Rinse the mould with cold wrater, place it in a basin or
shallow pan of broken ice, cover the bottom with a thin layer of cool
jelly, and let it set. Add some of the fruit, contrasting the colours
carefully, cover with jelly, and leave it to stiffen. Repeat until the
RECIPES FOR JELLIES 997
mould is full, taking care that each layer is firmly fixed before adding
another. Turn out when set and serve.
Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, from 2s. 3d. to 3s. 6d. Sufficient
for 1 large mould.
2002. — JELLY WITH ORANGES. (Fr — Chartreuse
aux Oranges.)
Ingredients. — 6 Tangerine oranges, 1 pint of lemon or wine jelly
Nos. 2020 and 2004.
Method. — Peel the oranges, remove every particle of pith, and divide
them into sections. Cover the bottom of a charlotte mould with a
little cool jelly, let it set, then arrange sections of orange neatly over-
lapping each other round the mould. Cover with more jelly, let it
set, then add another layer of oranges, and repeat until the mould
is full.
Time. — From 1 to if hours, when ice is used. Average Cost, is. 6d.
to is. 9d. Sufficient for 1 medium-sized mould. Seasonable from Novem-
ber to August.
Tangerine Oranges. — Tangerine oranges are small, with thin, highly aromatic skins, full of
essence. The flavour of the fruit is decided and perfumed. The fruit originally came froi^i China
and Tangiers. Tangerines are preserved when green in sugar-glace or crystallized, and are then known
as Chinois ; when preserved ripe, they are called Mandarine or Tangerine.
2003. — JELLY WITH RAISINS.
Ingredients. — Wine or lemon jelly, Valencia raisins stoned.
Method. — The raisins may be placed in the jelly according to the
directions given in Jelly with Bananas, No. 1999, or Jelly with
Fruit, No. 2000.
Time. — Without ice, 5 or 6 hours. Average Cost, is. 6d. to 2s., accord-
ing to size.
2004. — LEMON JELLY. (Fr. — Gelee au Citron.)
Ingredients. — if pints of water, \ a pint of sherry, J of a pint of lemon
juice, 6 ozs. of loaf sugar, the finely-peeled rind of 4 lemons, the whites
and shells of 2 eggs, if ozs. of leaf gelatine.
Method.— Put the water, lemon-rind and juice, gelatine, sugar, egg
shells, and the slightly beaten whites together into a stewpan, boil
up, whisking meanwhile, simmer for about 10 minutes, then strain
through a scalded jelly-bag or linen cloth. Add the wine, and use as
required.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, is. 6d. to is. 8d. Sufficient for
if pints.
Note. — "When the jelly is intended to line or garnish moulds, an extra \ oz.
of gelatine should be added, especially so in hot weather.
998 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
2005. — LEMON JELLY. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — -if pints of water, f a pint of lemon-joice, 6 ozs. of loaf
sugar, 2 ozs. of leaf gelatine, the thinly cut rinds of 4 lemons, 4 cloves,
1 inch of cinnamon, the whites and shells of 2 eggs.
Method. — Put all these ingredients into a stewpan, whisk until they
boil, and simmer for about 10 minutes. Strain through a scalded cloth
or bag, and when cool use as required.
Time. — -About 1 hour. Average Cost, is. 2d. Sufficient for if pints.
2006. — LIQUEUR JELLY.
( See Maraschino Jelly, No. 2008.)
2007. — MARBLED JELLY. {Fr. — Gelee Panachee.)
Ingredients. — if pints of lemon or wine jelly, cochineal, sap-green or
spinach colouring.
Method. — Coat a mould with a thin layer of cool jelly, put 3 or 4
tablespoonfuls aside, and divide the remainder into 3 equal portions.
Colour one green, one red, and leave the other plain. Let it become
firm, then put it into the mould in rough pieces about the size of a
large walnut, and set them with a little cool jelly, put aside for the
purpose. Let it remain on ice or in a cool place until firm, then turn
out and serve.
Time. — About if hours. Average Cost, is. 3d. to is. 6d. Sufficient
for 5 or 6 persons.
2008. — MARASCHINO JELLY. (Fr— Gelee au Maras-
quin.)
Ingredients. — 4 tablespoonfuls of Maraschino liqueur, if pints of water,
4 ozs. of loaf sugar, if ozs. of leaf gelatine, the juice of 2 lemons, the
whites and shells of 2 eggs.
Method. — Put all the ingredients except the Maraschino into a stew-
pan, and bring to boiling point, whisking meanwhile. Simmer gently
for a few minutes, then strain, add the Maraschino, and when suffi-
ciently cool pour into a wet mould.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, is. 3d. Sufficient for if pints.
2009. — NECTARINE JELLY.
( See Apricot Jelly, No. 1979.)
2010. — NOYEAU JELLY.
{See Maraschino Jelly, No. 2008.)
2011. — NOYEAU CREAM. {Fr. — Creme au Noyeau. )
Ingredients. — if pints of cream, if ozs. of gelatine, 1 tablespoonful
of lemon- juice, 2 tablespoonfuls of noyeau, 1 tablespoonful of sugar,
or to taste.
RECIPES FOR JELLIES
999
Method. — Soak and afterwards dissolve the gelatine in a little water.
Add the noyeau, lemon-juice, sugar, and the cream slightly-whipped.
Whisk gently until light, then turn into a mould and set aside the pre-
paration until it becomes firm.
Time. — About £ an hour. Average Cost, 3s. Sufficient for 1 large
mould.
2012. — ORANGE JELLY. ( Fr . — Gelee d’Oranges.)
Ingredients. — 1 pint of orange juice (strained), 1 pint of boiling water,
2 ozs. of loaf sugar, if ozs. of gelatine, the juice of 2 lemons, the
thinly cut rind of 2 oranges.
Method. — Put the water, gelatine, sugar and orange-rinds into a
stewpan, bring to the boil, and let the mixture stand by the side of the
fire for about 10 minutes. Have the strained orange and lemon-juice
ready in a basin, add the contents of the stewpan, pouring them through
a piece of muslin or a strainer. When cool, pour into a mould rinsed,
with cold water. This jelly is never cleared, as it spoils the flavour.
Time. — About 40 minutes. Average Cost, is. Sufficient for 1 quart
of jelly. Seasonable from November to August.
2013. — PORT WINE JELLY. (Fr.— Gelee au vin
d’Oporto.)
Ingredients. — I- a pint of port wine, 1) gills of water, 1 oz. of loaf sugar,
\ an oz. of leaf gelatine, 1 tablespoonful of red-currant jelly, cochineal.
Method. — Put the water, sugar, red-currant jelly and gelatine into
a stew-pan, and stir the ingredients by the side of the fire until dissolved.
Add half the wine, a few drops of cochineal to improve the colour, and
strain through muslin or jelly bag. Add the remainder of wine at
the last.
Time. — About \ an hour. Average Cost, is. 3d. Sufficient for 1 small
mould.
2014. — PUNCH JELLY. (Fr. — Gelee au Punch.)
Ingredients. — 1 pint of water, 1 wineglassful each of rum, sherry, and
kirsch, \ a lb. of loaf sugar, i-l- ozs. of French gelatine, 2 lemons, 1 egg,
\ an inch of cinnamon, 20 coriander seeds.
Method. — Put the water and sugar into a stewpan, and boil to a syrup.
Add the finely-cut rind of the lemons, the gelatine, previously softened
in a little cold water, and stir until the latter dissolves. Now put in
the lemon-juice, rum, sherry, kirsch, cinnamon and coriander seeds,
bring to the boil, and let it cool. Beat up the white and shell of the
egg, add the mixture to the contents of the stewpan when sufficiently
cool, and whisk by the side of the fire until boiling. Simmer very gently
iooo
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
for io minutes, then strain through a hot jelly-bag or a cloth until
clear, and pour into a mould previously rinsed with cold water.
Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, is. 9d. Sufficient for if pints
of jelly.
2015. — RHUBARB JELLY. (Fr. — Gelee de Rhubarbe.)
Ingredients. — 1 small bundle of rhubarb, 4 ozs. of castor sugar, or to
taste, f- of an oz. of leaf gelatine, the finely-cut rind of 1 lemon, -} a pint
of water.
Method. — Wipe the rhubarb with a cloth, trim it, and cut it into short
lengths, put it into a stewpan with the water, sugar and lemon-rind, sim-
mer until tender, and rub through a hair sieve. Dissolve the gelatine in 2
tablespoonfuls of water, and strain into the rest of the ingredients. Turn
into a wetted mould, and keep on ice or in a cold place until set.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 6d. to 7 d. Sufficient for 1
medium-sized mould. Seasonable from February to May.
2016. — SAUTERNE JELLY.
(See Champagne Jelly, No. 1985.)
2017. — STOCK FOR JELLY. (See Aspic Jelly from
Calves’ Feet, No. 1981, Gelatine Jelly,
No. 1991, and Wine Jelly, No. 2020.)
When sweet jelly is required, lemon-rind, cloves, bay-leaf and mace
should replace the vegetables, herbs and vinegar used in making aspic
jelly.
2018. — STRAWBERRY JELLY. (Fr. — Gelee aux
Fraises.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of strawberries, \ a lb. of loaf sugar, 2 ozs. of gela-
tine, the juice of 1 lemon, the whites and shells of 2 eggs, a little lemon
jelly, No. 2020.
Method. — Boil the sugar and 1 pint of cold water to a syrup, and when
cool, pour it over \ a lb. of strawberries, previously picked and crushed
to a pulp. Cover the basin, and let the fruit remain thus for an hour.
Coat a mould thinly with lemon jelly, decorate tastefully with whole
strawberries, and fix them firmly in place with a little more jelly ( see
p. 996). Place the gelatine with 1 pint of wrater in a stewpan; when
dissolved add the strawberry preparation and the lemon-juice. Let
the mixture cool, then stir in the whites of the eggs and the shells.
Whisk until boiling, and strain through a jelly-bag or cloth until clear.
When the preparation is cold and on the point of setting pour it into
.
COLD SWEETS,
G G
33
RECIPES FOR CREAMS
IOOI
the prepared mould, and let it remain on ice or in a cool place until
firm.
Time. — About i| hours. Average Cost, is. 9d. to 2s. 3d. Sufficient
for 1 large mould. Seasonable from June to August.
2019. — TIPPAREE JELLY.
Ingredients. — Tipparee pods (Cape gooseberries), sugar, lemon-juice.
Method. — Wipe the pods, cover them with cold water, simmer gently
until soft, then drain through a jellv bag, but do not squeeze the pulp.
Measure the liquor ; to each pint add 1 lb. of sugar and 1 dessert-
spoonful of lemon-juice, and simmer gently for \ an hour, skimming
meanwhile. Pour the jelly into prepared moulds, or into jars if not
required for immediate use.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, uncertain.
2020. — WINE JELLY. {Fr.— Gelee au Vin.)
Ingredients. — 1 quart of water, ^ of a pint of wine, sherry or Marsala, 4 ozs.
of loaf sugar, 2\ ozs. of French leaf gelatine, 1 orange, 1 lemon, \ an oz.
of coriander seed, the whites and shells of 2 eggs.
Method. — Put the water, sugar, gelatine, the juice and finely-cut
rind of the orange and lemon, and the coriander seeds into a stewpan,
and let them soak until the gelatine is softened. Whisk the whites and
shells of the eggs together, add them to the rest of the ingredients,
and whisk over the fire until boiling. Simmer gently for 10 minutes,
then strain through a hot jelly -bag or cloth until clear, and pour into
a wet mould.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, is. 6d. to is. 9d. Sufficient for
1 quart of jelly.
Creams, etc.
2021. — ALMOND CREAM. ( Fr . — Creme aux Amandes.)
Ingredients. — 2 ozs. of almonds, \ a pint of cream, 1 oz. of sugar,
\ an oz. of leaf gelatine, essence of almonds.
Method.— Blanch and skin the almonds, chop them coarsely, and
bake in the oven until light brown. Dissolve the gelatine and sugar
in 3 tablespoonfuls of water. Whip the cream stiffly, add the gelatine,
etc., the almonds when cold, and mix all lightly together. Pour into
a prepared mould, and stand in ice or in a cool place until firmly set.
Time. — About 40 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. Sufficient for 1
small cream.
1002
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
2022. — APRICOT CREAM. (Fr. — Creme aux Abricots.)
ingredients. — \ a pint of apricot puree, \ a pint of cream, i \ ozs. of
castor sugar, f- of an oz. of leaf gelatine, i teaspoonful of lemon-juice,
^ of a pint of apricot syrup, cochineal.
Method. — Tinned or bottled apricots may be used, and the puree
is made by passing them through a fine sieve. Whip the cream
stiffly, and stir it lightly into the puree. Dissolve the gelatine in a
little water and put with the syrup, add the sugar and lemon-juice, and
let it cool, then strain into the cream, etc., and add cochineal drop by
drop until the desired colour is obtained. Pour the mixture into the
prepared mould, and stand on ice or in a cold place until firm.
Time. — From 20 to 30 minutes, after the mould is prepared. Average
Cost, about is. 6d. Sufficient for 1 medium-sized mould.
2023. — BANANA CREAM. (Fr. — Creme de Bananes.)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of banana puree, \ a pint of cream, i\ ozs. of
castor sugar, f of an oz. of leaf gelatine, 1 wineglassful of Benedictine or
Maraschino, cochineal.
Method. — Pass the bananas through a fine sieve, add the stiffly-
whipped cream, the Benedictine or Maraschino, and mix lightly to-
gether. Dissolve the gelatine in a tablespoonful of water, stir in the
sugar, and when sufficiently cool mix lightly with the cream, etc.,
adding cochineal drop by drop until a pale pink colour is obtained.
Pour into the prepared mould, and stand on ice or in a cold place until
firm.
Time. — To make the cream, from 20 to 30 minutes. Average Cost,
from is. 9d. to 2s. Sufficient for 1 medium-sized mould.
2024. — BANANA CREAM. (Fr. — Bavaroise de
Bananes.)
Ingredients. — 2 bananas, 1 quart of milk, 2 ozs. of cornflour, .2 ozs. of
castor sugar, 2 yolks of eggs, \ a teaspoonful of vanilla essence.
Method. — Mix the cornflour smoothly with a little milk, put the
remainder into a stewpan with the sugar, when boiling add the blended
cornflour and milk, and boil about 10 minutes. Let the preparation
cool a little, then add the beaten yolks of eggs, and stir by the side
of the fire until they thicken. Add the vanilla essence, the bananas
thinly-sliced, and when cool pour into the prepared mould.
Time. — From 25 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, 9d. Sufficient for 1
large mould.
RECIPES FOR CREAMS
1003
2025.— BAVARIAN CREAMS.
A variety of these will be found under their respective names, e.g.
Bavaroise au Chocolate, Bavaroise de Bananes, Bavaroise aux Peches,
etc. etc.
2026.— BAVAROISE AU CHOCOLATE. (, See Chocolate
Cream, No. 2036.)
2027. — BAVAROISE DE BANANES. ( See Banana
Cream, No. 2023.)
2028. — BAVAROISE AUX PECHES. (See Peach
Cream, No. 2047.)
2029. — BROWN BREAD CREAM. (Fr.— Creme au
Pain-bis.)
Ingredients. — 1 pint of cream, \ a pint of milk, 3 tablespoonfuls of
crumbled brown bread, 1 oz. of loaf sugar, -J- an oz. of gelatine, 2 whites
of eggs, 1 yolk of egg, 1 vanilla pod, -]■ of a teaspoonful of ground cinna-
mon.
Method. — Simmer the milk and vanilla pod together until pleasantly
flavoured, add the sugar, and when dissolved strain on to the beaten
eggs, stirring meanwhile. Return to the stewpan, add the gelatine,
previously soaked in a little water, then put in the cream and stir
until the mixture thickens. Have the sieved brown bread and cinnamon
ready in a basin, add the milk preparation, stir frequently until cool,
then pour into the prepared mould.
Time. — From 40 to 45 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. 3d. to 2s. 6d.
Sufficient for 1 large or 2 small moulds.
2030. — CANARY CREAM.
Ingredients. — i f pints of milk, 4 ozs. of loaf sugar, §■ of an oz. of leaf
gelatine, 1 lemon, 6 yolks of eggs.
Method. — Soak the gelatine in a little milk, boil the remainder with
the thinly-cut lemon-rind and sugar for a few minutes, add the gelatine,
and when dissolved let the mixture cool a little. Now put in the
lemon-juice, the beaten yolks of eggs, and stir by the side of the fire
until they thicken. Stir the mixture frequently until cool, then pour
into a wetted or lined mould.
Time. — From 35 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, is. Sufficient for 1
large mould.
1004 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
2031. — CARAMEL CREAM. (Fr. — Creme Renversee.)
Ingredients. — 1 \ pints of milk, 3 ozs. of ground rice, 1 oz. of castor
sugar, the thinly-cut rind of 1 lemon, 2 ozs. of loaf sugar.
Method. — Put the loaf sugar into a stewpan with 1 tablespoonful of
cold water, allow it to boil quickly until it becomes dark golden-brown,
then pour it into a dry plain mould, which must be turned slowly over
and over until the inner surface is completely coated. Add the
lemon-rind and castor sugar to the boiling milk, sprinkle in the ground
rice, and boil gently for 10 minutes. When ready, remove the lemon-
rind, pour the mixture into the prepared mould, and let it remain in a
cold place until set.
Time. — From 35 to 45 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. Sufficient for 1
medium-sized mould.
2032. — CHARLOTTE RUSSE. (Fr. — Charlotte Russe.)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of cream, 4 of a pint of milk, \ of an oz. of leaf
gelatine, 1 tablespoonful of brandy or sherry, 1 dessertspoontul of castor
sugar, vanilla essence, Savoy or finger biscuits, jelly, cherries, angelica,
or other decoration.
Method. — Cover the bottom of a charlotte mould thinly with jelly,
and when set garnish with strips of angelica and halved cherries. Cover
with jelly to the depth of about \ an inch, let the jelly set, then line
the mould with Savoy biscuits. Dissolve the gelatine and sugar in the
milk, then strain it and add the brandy and vanilla essence to taste.
When cool stir into the stiffly-whipped cream. Pour into the pre-
pared mould, and set on ice or in a cool place until firm.
Time. — From 15 to 20 minutes, after the mould is prepared. Average
Cost, is. 6d. to is. 9d. Sufficient for 1 medium-sized mould.
Note. — If preferred, the bottom of the tin may be lined with biscuits cut to
the shape of the mould.
2033. — CHARLOTTE A LA ST. JOSE.
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of preserved pineapple, Savoy biscuits, \ a pint of
cream, \ a gill of milk, \ a pint of lemon or wine jelly (about) (see
Nos. 2004 and 2020), 1 oz. of castor sugar, \ an oz. of gelatine, 1 table-
spoonful of pineapple syrup.
Method. — Line the bottom of an oval charlotte mould with jelly;
when set, decorate it with fancifully-cut pieces of pineapple, and cut
the remainder into small dice. Set the decoration with a little jelly,
and cover with a layer to the depth of at least an inch. Stand on ice
until firm, then line the sides of the mould with Savoy biscuits. Dissolve
the gelatine and sugar in the milk, add the pineapple syrup, and let the
mixture cool. Whip the cream stiffly, add the pineapple dice, and when
RECIPES FOR CREAMS 1005
cool stir in the gelatine, etc. Pour into the mould, stand on ice until
firm, then turn out and serve.
Time. — About 1 hour, to prepare. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. to 2s. gd.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
2034.— CHARTREUSE OF APPLES. (Fr.— Char-
treuse de Pommes a la Princesse.)
Ingredients. — 6 small cooking apples, 3 ozs. of sugar (about), \ an oz.
of leaf gelatine, 2 ozs. of angelica, 1 oz. of glace cherries, 1 oz. of pista-
chios, the thinly-cut rind of a lemon, 1 pint of lemon or wine jelly,
\ a gill of cream, 2 cloves, carmine or cochineal for colouring purposes.
Method. — Peel, core and slice the apples, cook them with the sugar,
cloves, lemon-rind, and a pint of water until tender, then rub them
through a hair sieve. Dissolve the gelatine in 1 tablespoonful of water,
and stir it into the puree. Divide into 2 equal portions, colour 1 pink
with carmine, add 1 tablespoonful of cream to the other, pour into
separate saute-pans or round shallow tins, and when cold cut into
stars, crescents or other shapes. Have ready a plain charlotte mould
coated with jelly, ornament the bottom and sides tastefully with the
prepared shapes and fancifully cut pieces of angelica, and fix them
firmly in place with a little cool jelly ( see p. 985). Place a small mould
in the centre of the large one, leaving about 1 inch of space all round;
fill this space with cool jelly, and let it set firmly. Dissolve the trim-
mings of the coloured and plain preparations separately, add the
remainder of the cream stiffly-whipped, sweeten to taste, and add to
each portion 1 gill of cool jelly. Remove the mould from the centre,
and fill the cavity with alternate layers of plain and coloured puree,
taking care that each layer is firmly set before adding the following
one, and dividing them by a liberal sprinkling of shredded cherries and
pistachios. Let the mould remain on ice for about 2 hours, then turn
out, and serve.
Time. — To prepare, from 2-|- to 3 hours. Average Cost, 2s. 9d. to 3s.
Sufficient for a medium-sized mould ; 6 or 7 persons.
2035. — CHESTNUT CREAM. (Fr. — Creme aux Marrons.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of chestnuts, pints of milk, \ a pint of cream,
4 ozs. of castor sugar, f of an oz. of gelatine, 4 yolks of eggs, the thinly-
cut rind of 1 lemon, a vanilla pod, 1 wineglassful of Maraschino, carmine
or cochineal.
Method. — Shell, parboil and skin the chestnuts, put them into a
stewpan with 1 pint of milk, the lemon-rind and vanilla pod, simmer
until tender, then rub through a fine sieve. Dissolve the sugar and
gelatine in the remaining } pint of milk, cool slightly, then add the yolks
of eggs, and stir by the side of the fire until they thicken. When cool
ioo6
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
mix with the puree, add the Maraschino, thickly-whipped cream, and
the carmine drop by drop, until a pale pink colour is obtained. Pour
into a decorated mould, and let it remain on ice or in a cool place
until set.
Time. — About \\ hours. Average Cost, 2s. 3d. to 2s. 6d. Sufficient
for 1 medium-sized mould (6 persons).
2036. — CHOCOLATE CREAM. (Fr . — Creme au Choco-
lat.)
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of chocolate, 2 ozs. of castor sugar, f- of an oz. of
leaf gelatine, 4 yolks of eggs, \ of a pint of cream, J of a pint of milk,
1 teaspoonful of vanilla essence.
Method. — Simmer the milk and chocolate together until smoothly
mixed, let it cool slightly, then add the yolks of eggs and stir until they
thicken, but the mixture must not boil or the eggs may curdle. Dis-
solve the gelatine in 1 tablespoonful of water, strain it into the custard,
and add the vanilla essence. Whip the cream stiffly, stir it lightly
into the custard, turn into a prepared mould, and stand on ice or in
a cool place until firmly set.
Time. — From 20 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, is. 9d. to 2s., not
including decoration and garnish. Sufficient for 1 medium-sized
mould.
2037. — CHOCOLATE CREAM. ( Fv . — Bavaroise au
Chocolat.)
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of chocolate, 3 ozs. of sugar, \ an oz. of French
leaf gelatine, 1 tablespoonful of creme de riz or ground rice, 6 jmlks of
eggs, 1 quart of milk, 1 teaspoonful of vanilla essence.
Method. — Soak the gelatine in a little milk, mix the creme de riz
smoothly with milk, put the remainder into a stewpan with the choco-
late and sugar, bring to the boil, add the creme de riz, and simmer
for about 10 minutes. Let the mixture cool a little, add the beaten
yolks of eggs, and stir by the side of the fire until they thicken. Add
the vanilla and gelatine, and, when cool, pour into the mould, which
may be simply wetted, or lined with jelly, and decorated according
to taste.
Time. — From 35 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. Sufficient for
1 large mould.
2038. — COFFEE CREAM. (JFr— Creme au Cafe.)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of cream, \ a pint of milk, coffee essence, 2^ ozs.
of castor sugar, £■ of an oz. of gelatine, the yolks of 2 eggs.
Method. — Beat the yolks of eggs, add them to the milk when nearly
RECIPES FOR CREAMS
1007
boiling, stir until they thicken, then put in the sugar and cool slightly.
Now dissolve the gelatine in 1 tablespoonful of water, and add it to the
custard. Whip the cream stiffly, stir it in to the custard when nearly
cold, add the coffee essence, and pour into the prepared mould. Let
the mould remain on ice or in a cold place until firm.
Time. — About \ an hour. Average Cost, from is. 6d. to is. 8d. Suffi-
cient for 1 medium-sized mould.
2039. — COLD CABINET PUDDING. (Fr. — Pouding
Cabinet Froid.)
Ingredients. — Savoy biscuits, 2 ozs. of ratafias, 1 oz. of castor sugar,
\ an oz. of leaf gelatine, \ a pint of milk, \ a gill of cream, the yolks
of 4 eggs, jelly, cherries, angelica.
Method. — Prepare the mould as directed for the recipe for Charlotte
Russe, No. 2032. Bring the milk and sugar nearly to boiling point, stir it
into the beaten yolks of the eggs, replace in the stewpan, and stir by the
side of the fire until the mixture thickens, but it must not boil. Dissolve
the gelatine in 1 or 2 tablespoonfuls of water, add it to the custard,
and when nearly cold stir in the cream, and flavour to taste with vanilla.
Place the ratafias and trimmings off the Savoy biscuits in the mould,
and pour the preparation, when cold and on the point of setting, over
them. Place on ice or in a cold place until firm.
Time. — From 30 to 35 minutes, after the mould is prepared. Average
Cost, is. 6d. to is. 9d. Sufficient for 1 medium-sized mould.
2040. — GARIBALDI CREAM. (Fr— Creme a la Gari-
baldi.)
Ingredients. — Equal quantities of pistachio, strawberry, and vanilla
cream (see recipes for same).
Method. — Place a layer of strawberry cream at the bottom of a mould
previously lined with jelly, or rinsed with cold water. Allow it to set,
add an equal depth of vanilla cream, and when firm, pour over it the
pistachio cream. Let it remain on ice until set, and unmould.
Time. — Without ice, 3 to 4 hours. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. to 3s., according
to size.
2041. — GENOESE CREAM. (Fr. — Creme a la Genoise.)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of milk, g- of a pint of cream, 2 ozs. of macaroons,
2 ozs. of castor sugar, 1 oz. of mixed glace fruit shredded, \ an oz. of
leaf gelatine, 4 yolks of eggs, the finely-cut rind of \ an orange, \ a
wineglassful of brandy.
Method. — Crush the macaroons and soak them in the brandy. Put
the milk, sugar and orange-rind into a stewpan, boil up, and simmer
ioo8
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
for io minutes, then add the gelatine, the beaten yolks of eggs, and
stir by the side of the fire until they thicken and the gelatine is dissolved.
Strain over the macaroons and brandy, add the prepared fruit, and
when cool, stir in the stiffly-whipped cream. Continue the stirring
until the mixture is on the point of setting, then turn into the prepared
mould. Let it remain on ice or in a cool place until firm.
Time. — From 35 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, is. c;d. Sufficient for
1 medium-sized mould.
2042. — GINGER CREAM. (Fr. — Creme de Gingem-
bre.)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of cream, J of a pint of milk, 2 tablespoonfuls of
ginger syrup, 1 tablespoonful of castor sugar, 2 ozs. of preserved ginger,
| of an oz. of leaf gelatine, the yolks of 3 eggs.
Method. — Beat the yolks of eggs, add them to the milk when nearly
boiling, stir until they thicken, add the sugar, and set aside to cool.
Dissolve the gelatine in a tablespoonful of water, mix with it the ginger
syrup, the ginger cut into dice, and pour into the custard. Whip the
cream stiffly, and when cool stir it lightly into the custard. Turn into
the prepared mould, and stand on ice or in a cold place until required.
Time. — About an hour. Average Cost, is. 8d. to 2s. Sufficient for
1 medium-sized mould.
Preserved Ginger comes to us from the West Indies. It is made by scalding the roots when they
are green and full of sap, then peeling them in cold water, and putting them into jars, with a rich
syrup, in which state we receive them. It should be chosen of a bright yellow colour with a little
transparency ; what is dark-coloured, fibrous and stringy, is not good.
2043. —GOOSEBERRY CREAM. (Fr.— Creme de
Groseille Verte.)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of gooseberry puree, 1 teaspoonful of lemon
juice, vanilla cream No. 2062, spinach greening.
Method. — Cook the gooseberries in a stew-jar until tender, pass them
through a hair sieve, and sweeten to taste. Make the cream as directed,
but omit the vanilla flavouring. Add to it the gooseberry puree with
a few drops of spinach colouring, and pour into a prepared mould.
Time. — From ij to hours. Average Cost, 2s. to 2s. qd. Sufficient
for 6 or 7 persons.
2044. — ITALIAN CREAM. (Fr. — Creme a l’ltalienne.)
Ingredients. — h a pint of cream, 4- a pint of milk, 1 oz. of gelatine,
sugar to taste, the yolks of 4 eggs, the thin rind and strained juice of
1 lemon.
Method. — Soak the gelatine in a little cold water for \ an hour, and
afterwards stir it over the fire until dissolved, Boil up the milk,
SWEETS
i. — Pancakes. 2.— Rice and Apple Cake. 3. — Eclairs. 4. — Assorted Pastry.
5. — Rice Pudding. 6.— Stewed Fruits. 7. — Sugar Trifle. 8. — Pyramid Cream.
9. — Croquettes of Rice. 10. — Gateau St. Honord. n. — Simnel Cake.
RECIPES FOR CREAMS
1009
infuse the lemon-rind for 20 minutes, then add the gelatine, yolks of
eggs, lemon-juice, and sugar to taste. Stir by the side of the fire until
the mixture thickens, then strain, and, when cool, stir in the stiffly-
whipped cream. The preparation may be turned into a mould and put
aside until set, or it may be at once served in a glass dish or jelly-
glasses.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, is. 8d. Sufficient for 5 or 6
persons.
2045. — LEMON CREAM. (Fr. — Creme au Citron.)
Ingredients. — 1 pint of cream, 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice, 1 heaped
tablespoonful of ground almonds, 2 glasses of sherry, sugar to taste.
Method. — Whip the cream stiffly, adding the rest of the ingredients
gradually, and sweeten to taste. Serve in jelly glasses. For a moulded
cream, see Vanilla Cream, and substitute lemon-juice for vanilla.
Time. —From 25 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient to
fill 12 small glasses.
2046. — ORANGE CREAM. (Fr.— Creme a l’Orange.)
Ingredients. — 1 good orange, 2 tablespoonfuls of apricot marmalade,
vanilla cream.
Method. — Make the cream as directed, but omit the vanilla flavouring,
add the strained juice of the orange, the rind finely-grated, and the
marmalade well reduced. Pour into a prepared mould, and place on
ice until set.
Time. — From ij to 1^ hours. Average Cost, 2s. to 2s. 6d. Sufficient
for 6 or 7 persons.
2047. — PEACH CREAM. (Fr. — Bavaroise aux Peches.)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of peach puree, \ a pint of cream, 1 oz. of castor
sugar, 1 gill of apricot syrup, an oz. of leaf gelatine.
Method. — Pass sufficient peaches through a hair sieve to make the1
required amount of puree. Dissolve the gelatine and sugar in the
puree, and stir in the stiffly-whipped cream. Turn into the prepared
mould, and let it remain on ice or in a cold place until set.
Time.— From 25 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, about is. 6d., ex-
clusive of decoration or garnish. Sufficient for 1 medium-sized mould.
2048. — PINEAPPLE CREAM. ( Fr . — Creme d’Ananas.)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of cream, 1 gill of water, of a pint of pineapple
puree, 2 good tablespoonfuls of pineapple cut into dice, i-J ozs. of castor
sugar, an oz. of leaf gelatine, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice.
Method. — Whip the cream stiffly, stir it lightly into the pineapple
1010
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
puree, and add the pineapple dice. Dissolve the gelatine and sugar
in the water, add the lemon-juice, and when sufficiently cool, stir it
lightly into the cream, etc. Pour into the prepared mould, and set
on ice or in a cold place until firm.
Time. — From 30 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, is. 9d. to 2s. Suffi-
cient for 1 medium-sized mould.
Pineapple (Fr. ananas). — The pineapple is a native of tropical South America, but is now widely
found in all tropical countries. It is a peculiar growth of the Ananassa sativa. The fruit, which much
resembles a pine-cone, is of a delicious and delicate flavour, slightly reminiscent of turpentine, con-
taining sugar, and is a sub-acid. In proper condition it should be soft, sweet and full of juice. It is
much appreciated as a dessert fruit, and, owing to its delicious and characteristic flavour, is well
adapted for use in the kitchen in preparing a large variety of sweet dishes. The finest fruit for table
use is grown in the United Kingdom in specially heated glass pine-houses. Enormous quantities
are also imported from the West Indies, the Azores, etc. These are packed while still hard, and
ripen on the journey. Pineapples are also preserved in tins, in glass with syrup, and candied, in all
of which forms they are most useful to the cook. It was first known in Europe about 250 years ago,
and appears to have been cultivated in England in the middle of the eighteenth century. From the
fibre of the pineapple a beautiful cloth, called “ pina,” is manufactured.
2049. — PISTACHIO CREAM. ( Fr . — Creme aux Pis-
taches.)
Ingredients. — i pint of cream, 4 ozs. of pistachio nuts, 2 ozs. of castor
sugar, 1 oz. of leaf gelatine, a little sap-green liquid colouring.
Method. — Blanch, skin and chop the pistachios finely. Dissolve the
gelatine and sugar in 3 tablespoonfuls of water. Whip the cream
stiffly, add the gelatine when cool, the pistachios, and sap-green drop
by drop, until the desired colour is obtained. Pour into a decorated
mould ( see p. 985), and let it remain on ice or in a cold place until
firmly set.
Time. — About -£- an hour. Average Cost, 3s. 9d. to 4s. 3d. Sufficient
for 1 medium-sized mould.
2050. — RASPBERRY CREAM. (. Fr . — Creme aux
Framboises.)
Ingredients. — 1 pint of cream, J of a pint of milk, i£- ozs. of castor
sugar, \ an oz. of gelatine, the juice of 1 lemon, of a pint of raspberry
syrup, or 2 tablespoonluls of raspberry jam.
Method. — When raspberry jam is used instead of syrup, pass it
through a hair sieve, dilute with w^ater to make the required quantity,
and add a few drops of cochineal. Dissolve the gelatine and sugar
in the milk, add the lemon- juice, mix with the raspberry syrup, and
stir in the stiffly-whipped cream.
Time. — About -£ an hour. Average Cost, 2s. 3d. to 2s. 6d. Sufficient
for 1 medium-sized mould.
2051. — RICE CREAM. (Fr. — Riz a l’lmperatrice.)
Ingredients. — 2 ozs. of Caroline rice, 4 ozs. of castor sugar, \ of an oz.
RECIPES FOR CREAMS
ion
of leaf gelatine, i pint of milk, \ a pint of cream, vanilla or other
flavouring, fruit compote ( see p. 1025).
Method. — Simmer the rice in the milk until perfectly tender, and when
the milk is nearly absorbed, stir frequently to prevent the rice sticking
to the bottom of the pan. Melt the gelatine in 1 or 2 tablespoonfuls
of water, stir it into the rice with the sugar and flavouring ingredient,
and when sufficiently cool add the stiffly- whipped cream. Turn into
a decorated border mould, and allow it to remain on ice or in a cold
place until set. Serve the compote of fruit piled in the centre.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, is. qd., exclusive of the fruit
compote. Sufficient for 1 medium-sized mould.
2052. — RICE CREAM. (Fr. — Creme de Riz.)
Ingredients. — 1 pint of milk, \ a pint of cream, 2 ozs. of ground rice,
2 ozs. of castor sugar, an oz. of leaf gelatine, vanilla essence, or other
flavouring.
Method. — Bring the milk and sugar to boiling point, sprinkle in the
rice, and simmer gently for about 20 minutes. Dissolve the gelatine
in 1 tablespoonful of water, add it to the rice, flavour to taste with
vanilla essence, and when cool, mix in as lightly as possible the stiffly-
whipped cream. Pour into the prepared mould, and set aside until
firm.
Time. — About \ an hour. Average Cost, is. sd. to is. yd. Sufficient
for 1 medium-sized mould.
2053. — RUM CREAM. (Fr. — Creme au Rhum.)
Ingredients. — 1 wineglassful of rum, 2 ozs. of sugar, J of an oz. of leaf
gelatine, 3 yolks of eggs, \ a pint of milk, 1 bay-leaf.
Method. — Bring the milk to boiling point, put in the bay-leaf, and
infuse for 20 minutes. Add the sugar and yolks of eggs, stir until the
mixture thickens, then put in the gelatine previously dissolved in a
little hot water, and remove the bay-leaf. Add the rum, stir occa-
sionally until cool, and pour into a mould rinsed with cold water.
Time. — About \ an hour. Average Cost, iod. Sufficient for 4 or 5
persons.
2054. — SOLID CREAM.
Ingredients. — 1 pint of double cream, castor sugar to taste, 1 dessert-
spoonful of lemon- juice, 2 tablespoonfuls of brandy.
Method. — Whip the cream stiffly, add the lemon-juice and brandy,
and sweeten to taste. Serve in jelly glasses.
Time. — 25 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
1012
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
2055. — STONE CREAM.
Ingredients. — 1 pint of milk, 2 ozs. of sugar, 1 heaped up tablespoonful
of arrowroot, 3 drops each of essence of cloves and almonds, jam, strips
of angelica, glace cherries.
Method. — Place a good layer of jam at the bottom of a glass dish.
Mix the arrowroot smoothly with a little cold milk, boil the remainder,
pour it over the arrowroot, stirring meanwhile. Replace in the stew-
pan, add the sugar, simmer gently for 2 or 3 minutes, and stir in the
flavourings. Stir the mixture occasionally until nearly cold, then
pour it over the jam, and garnish with angelica and cherries.
Time. — Altogether, about 1 hour. Average Cost, iod. Sufficient for
4 or 5 persons.
2056. — STRAWBERRY CREAM. (Fr.— Creme de
Fraises.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of strawberries, \ a pint of cream, 3 ozs. of castor
sugar, f- of an oz. of leaf gelatine, the juice of 1 lemon.
Method. — Pick the strawberries and pass them through a fine hair
seive. Dissolve the gelatine and sugar in 2 tablespoonfuls of water,
and add the lemon-juice. Strain the gelatine, etc., into the strawberry
puree, add the cream well-whipped, mix lightly together, and pour into
the prepared mould. Set on ice or in a cold place until firm.
Time. — From 35 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. Sufficient for 1
medium-sized mould. Seasonable from June to August.
2057. — STRAWBERRY CREAMS, SMALL. ( Fr .—
Petits pains de Fraises a la Moderne.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. ripe strawberries, 1 pint of lemon or wine jelly,
Nos. 2004, 2020, 1 tablespoonful of Maraschino, \ an oz. of leaf gelatine,
1 oz. of castor sugar, 2 ozs. of loaf sugar, 2 eggs, angelica.
Method. — Line the moulds with jelly, and decorate them with leaves
of angelica and halved strawberries ( see p. 985). Boil the loaf sugar
and 1 gill of cold water to a syrup. Pass the remainder of the straw-
berries through a fine sieve, place in a large basin with the syrup,
sugar, Maraschino, beaten eggs, gelatine dissolved in 1 tablespoonful
of water, and whisk over a saucepan of boiling water until the mixture
thickens. Now stand the basin on ice or on a cold slab, stir frequently
until cold and on the point of setting, then pour into the prepared
moulds.
Time. — 2 hours, altogether. Average Cost, 2s. to 2s. 6d. Sufficient
for 8 or 10 small moulds.
Note. — As the mixture is poured less quickly into small moulds than one
large one, it should not be allowed to come quite so near setting point. If,
however, it stiffens during the process of filling the moulds, it should be
slightly re-heated over a saucepan of hot water.
RECIPES FOR CREAMS 1013
2058.— SWISS CREAM. (Fr. — Creme a la Suisse.-)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of cream, \ a pint of milk, ^ of a pint of sherry,
1 oz .of castor sugar, 1 tablespoonful of cornflour, 1 lemon, 1 teaspoonful,
of finely-chopped pistachios, sponge cake.
Method. — Cut the cake into i-inch thick slices, place them in a deep
silver or glass dish, and pour over the sherry. Mix the cornflour
smoothly with a little milk, boil the remainder with the thinly-cut
lemon-rind and sugar until pleasantly flavoured, remove the lemon
rind, then add the blended cornflour and milk, boil for 2 or 3 minutes,
and let the mixture cool. Whip the cream slightly, add it and the
lcmon-juice to the cornflour preparation, and pour over the sponge
cake. Sprinkle with the pistachios, and serve when perfectly cold.
Time. — From 35 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. to is. 8d.,
exclusive of the cake. Sufficient for 1 medium-sized dish.
2059. — TAPIOCA CREAM. (Fr - Creme au Tapioca.)
Ingredients. — i\ ozs. of French crushed tapioca (sold in packets),
2 ozs. of castor sugar, 1 quart of milk, 2 tablespoonfuls of thick cream,
4 yolks of eggs, the thinly-cut rind of \ a lemon, 1 bay-leaf, \ a small
pot of red-currant jelly, an equal quantity of lemon or wine jelly.
Method. — Mix and dissolve the jellies, and when cool pour the pre-
paration on the bottom of a border mould, and let it set. Bring the
milk, bay-leaf, and lemon-rind to the boil, and sprinkle in the tapioca.
Cook gently for about \ an hour, then add the sugar, beaten yolks of
eggs, and stir until the mixture thickens. Remove the bay-leaf and
lemon-rind, and when cool stir in the stiffly-whipped cream, and pour
the mixture into the prepared mould.
Time. — From i|- to 1^ hours. Average Cost, is. 6d. to is. 8d. Suffi-
cient for 1 large mould.
2060. — TEA CREAM. (Fr. — Creme au The.)
Ingredients. — 1 oz. of good tea, f- oz. of gelatine, \ pint of milk,
\ pint of cream, sugar to taste.
Method. — Bring the milk to boiling point, pour it over the tea,
let it infuse for 20 minutes, then strain and add half the cream. Dis-
solve the gelatine in a little boiling water, strain it into the cream, and
sweeten to taste. Whip the remainder of the cream stiffly, stir it into
the tea, etc., when sufficiently cool. Pour into a mould rinsed with
cold water and let set.
Time. About 1 hour. Average Cost, 2s. Sufficient for 4 or 5
persons.
ioi4
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
2061.— VANILLA CREAM. {Fr. — Creme a la Van-
ille.)
Ingredients. — \\ pints of milk, \ pint of cream, ij- ozs. of castor sugar,
\ an oz. of leaf gelatine, 4 yolks of eggs, 1 tablespoonful of brandy, 2
teaspoonfuls of vanilla essence.
Method. — Beat the yolks of eggs, add them to the milk when nearly
boiling, stir until they thicken, put in the sugar, and let the preparation
cool. Dissolve the gelatine in 1 tablespoonful of water, and add it
with the brandy and vanilla essence to the rest of the ingredients.
Whip the cream slightly, stir it lightly into the preparation when cool,
and pc<ir into the prepared mould.
Time. — From 40 to 60 minutes. Average Cost, is. 9d. to 2s. Sufficient for
1 large mould.
2062.— VANILLA CREAM. {Fr.— Creme a la Vanille.)
Ingredients.— 1 pint of cream, 1 oz. of castor sugar, \ an oz. of leaf
gelatine, 1 gill of water, 1 teaspoonful of vanilla essence.
Method. — Whip the cream stiffly, add the castor sugar and vanilla
essence. Dissolve the gelatine in the water, when cool, strain into the
cream, mix well, and pour into the prepared mould. Let it remain
on ice or in a cold place until set.
Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. to 2s. 4d. Sufficient for
1 medium-sized mould.
Vanilla is the fruit of vanilla aromatica, a parasitical orchid which flourishes in Brazil, Mexico,
Peru, and many other places. The fruit is a long capsule, thick and fleshy. Certain species of this
fruit contain a pulp with a delicious perfume and flavour. Vanilla is principally imported from
Mexico/ -The capsules for export are always picked at perfect maturity. The essence is the form
in which it is used generally and most conveniently. Its properties are stimulating. Vanilla is in
daily use for ices, chocolates, and flavouring confections generally.
2o63j^VELVET CREAM. {Fr. — Creme a la Veloute.)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of cream, \ a gill of water, 1 wineglassful of
' brandy or sherry, 1 oz. of castor sugar, \ an oz. of leaf gelatine.
Method. — Dissolve the gelatine and sugar in the water, and add the
sherry or brandy. Whip the cream stiffly, add to the rest of the in-
gredients when, cool, and mix well. Pour into the prepared mould,
and let it stand on ice or in a cold place until firm.
Time. — From 20 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, is. 4d. to is. 6d. Sufficient
for 1 small mould.
RECIPES FOR COLD SWEETS
1015
Cold Sweets
2064. — ALMOND CUSTARD.
Ingredients. — 1 tablespoonful of finely-chopped almonds, almond-
essence, an oz. of potato flour, 4 ozs. of sugar, 4 yolks of eggs, 3 sheets
or \ oz. of leaf gelatine, pints of milk.
Method. — Mix the potato flour smoothly with a little milk, boil up the
remainder, and pour it over the potato flour, stirring the mixture
meanwhile. Replace in the stewpan, simmer gently for 3 minutes,
then add the sugar and yolks of eggs, and stir b}^ the side of the fire
until the mixture thickens. Dissolve the gelatine in a little hot water,
add it to the custard, and strain. Stir in the almonds, add almond
essence to taste, and use for filling eclairs, cornets, etc.
Time. — About \ an hour. Average Cost, iod. to is.
2065. — APPLE COMPOTE. ( See Compote of Fruit,
No. 2099, and Stewed Fruit, No. 2160.)
2066. — APPLE CUSTARD.
Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of apples, 6 ozs. of sugar, 4 eggs, 1 pint of milk.
Method. — Peel, core and slice the apples, stew them with 4 ozs. of
sugar and 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of water until tender, then pass through
a hair sieve, or beat to a pulp. Bring the milk nearly to boiling point,
put in the remainder of the sugar and the beaten yolks of eggs, stir and
cook gently until the mixture thickens, but do not allow it to boil.
Whisk the whites of eggs to a stiff froth, and sweeten with a little castor
sugar. Place the apple pulp at the bottom of a piedish, pour the
custard on top, and cover lightly with the white of egg. Sprinkle the
surface liberally with castor sugar, and bake in a moderately cool oven
until the meringue hardens and acquires a little colour.
Time. — About i| hours. Average Cost, is. id. Sufficient for 4 or 5
persons. Seasonable at any time.
2067. — APPLE FOOL.
Ingredients. — 1 pint of apple pulp, £ of a pint of stiffly- whipped
cream, sugar to taste.
Method. — Bake or stew the apples, pass them through a fine sieve,
sweeten to taste, and stir in the cream. Serve in a glass dish, or custard
glasses.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, is. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
ioi6
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
2068. — APPLE FROST WITH CREAM. (Fr.
— Pommes Meringuees a la Creme.)
Ingredients. — 10 small sour cooking apples, 10 ozs. of loaf sugar,
castor sugar, \ a pint of cream, 3 whites of eggs, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-
juice, 1 inch of cinnamon, 2 cloves, 10 crystallized cherries, angelica.
Method. — Peel and core the apples carefully without breaking. Place
the loaf sugar in a stewpan with \ a pint of water, the sugar, lemon-
juice, cloves and cinnamon, and reduce to a syrup, skimming mean-
while. Arrange the apples in a saute-pan, pour the syrup round, cover
with a buttered paper, and bake gently until tender. Transfer them
to a buttered baking-sheet, cover the entire surface lightly with stiffly-
whisked sweetened white of egg, by means of a pipe and forcing-bag,
and dredge well wdth castor sugar. Bake in a slow oven until the
meringue hardens and acquires a little colour, and let them become
quite cold. When ready to serve, whip the cream stiffly, stir in 1
dessertspoonful of castor sugar, pile a little in the centre of each apple,
dish each one on a little bed of cream, and serve the remainder in the
centre of the dish. Decorate each apple with a cherry and strips of
angelica, then serve.
Time. — About 3 hours. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. to 2s. qd. Sufficient
for 7 or 8 persons. Seasonable at any time.
2069. — APPLE HEDGEHOG.
Ingredients. - 1 dozen sour cooking apples, 5 ozs. of moist sugar, castor
sugar, 1 oz. of blanched baked almonds, 2 wdiites of eggs, the finely-
grated rind of \ a lemon, 1 pint of wrater.
Method. — Peel the apples, core 8 of them carefully, and slice the
remainder. Place the 8 whole apples in a stewpan with the moist
sugar and water, stew gently until tender, then transfer them carefully
to a dish. Put the sliced apples into the stew-pan, cook them in the
syrup until perfectly soft, and beat them to a pulp. Spread a layer
of this pulp on a dish, place the whole apples on the top of it, fill the
spaces between them with apple pulp, and cover the surface with the
remainder, raising it slightly in the centre, in the form of a dome. Whisk
the whites of eggs stiffly, sw?eeten to taste with castor sugar, and spread
lightly over the apples. Insert the strips of almonds uniformly, to
represent the back of a hedgehog, and serve.
Time. — From if to 2 hours. Average Cost, is. 6d. Sufficient for 6 or
7 persons. Seasonable at any time.
2070. — APPLE SNOW. ( Fr . — Pommes a la Neige.)
Ingredients.— 6 apples, 6 whites of eggs, 4 or 5 ozs. of castor sugar, the
thinly-cut rind of 1 lemon.
COLD SWEETS
i. Savoy or Sponge Cake. 2. Ratifia Trifle.
34
gg
RECIPES FOR COLD SWEETS
1017
Method. — Peel, core and slice the apples, place them in a jar with the
sugar, lemon-rind, and 2 tablespoonfuls of water, and stew gently on
the stove or in the oven until tender. Pass through a sieve, add more
sugar if necessary, and let the pulp become quite cold. Then whip
the whites stiffly, add them to the pulp, and continue the whisking
until the mixture becomes stiff. Serve in custard-glasses or on a glass
dish.
Time. — From to i£ hours. Average Cost, is. 2d. Sufficient for 5
or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
2071. — APPLE SNOW. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 6 apples, 2 whites of eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of castor
sugar, 1 tablespoonful of coarsely-chopped candied peel, 2 tablespoon-
fuls of sherry, the thinly-cut rind of -J- a lemon.
Method. — Peel, core and slice the apples, put them into a stewpan
with the water, sherry, sugar and lemon-rind. Cook gently until
tender, pass through a hair sieve, add the stiffly-whisked whites of
eggs, and whisk until the mixture becomes firm. Stir in the candied
peel, and serve in small glasses.
Time. — About ij hours. Average Cost, from is. to is. 3d. .Sufficient
for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable at any time.
2072. — APPLE SNOW. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of sour cooking apples, 4 or 5 ozs. of sugar, the
thinly-cut rind of 1 lemon, 2 whites of eggs.
Method. — Peel, core and slice the apples, stew them with 3 tablespoon-
fuls of water, the lemon-rind and sugar until tender, then pass them
through a sieve. Add more sugar if necesssary, let the apple pulp
become quite cold, and mix lightly in the stiffly-whisked whites of
eggs. Serve in jelly-glasses or on a glass dish.
Time. — About 1 A hours. Average Cost, 9d. Sufficient for 6 or 7
persons. Seasonable at any time.
2073- — APPLE TRIFLE. (JFr. — Trifle de Pommes.)
Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of sour cooking apples, 6 ozs. of sugar, -l of a pint
of cream, \ a pint of custard, No. 2104, 3 sponge cakes, the finely-grated
rind of a lemon, glace cherries, angelica.
Method.— Peel, core, slice the apples, stew them with the lemon-rind,
sugar and 2 tablespoonfuls of water in a jar until tender, and rub
through a hair sieve. Cut each sponge cake into 3 or 4 slices, place
them in a glass dish, cover with the apple puree, pour over the custard,
and let the preparation stand until perfectly cold. Then whip the
cream stiffly, spread it lightly over the entire surface, and garnish with
halved cherries and strips of angelica.
ioi3
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Time. — Altogether, about 2 hours. Average Cost, is. pd. to 2s. Suffi-
cient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable at any time.
2074. — APPLES AND CREAM. (Fy. — Pommes a la
Chantilly.)
Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of sour cooking apples, 5 ozs. of moist sugar, 1
lemon, f of a pint of cream.
Method. — Peel, core and slice the apples, place them in a jar with
the thinly-cut rind of the lemon, 2 tablespoonfuls of water and the
sugar, and cook on the stove or in the oven until tender. Pass through
a hair sieve, add the lemon-juice, and more sugar, if necessary, and
f fill custard glasses with the preparation. Whip the cream stiffly,
sweeten to taste, and pile lightly on the top of the apple puree.
Time. — From if to if hours. Average Cost, is. 6d. Sufficient for
6 or 7 persons. Seasonable at any time.
2075. — APPLES IN RED JELLY.
Ingredients. — 6 apples, 6 ozs. of loaf sugar, f an oz. of leaf gelatine,
1 pint of boiling water, the thinly-cut rind of 1 lemon, 4 cloves, 1 white
of egg, castor sugar, cochineal.
Method. — Peel and core the apples, place them in a stewpan large
enough to allow them to stand side by side, pour over them the hot
water, in which the loaf sugar has been previously dissolved, and add the
lemon-rind and cloves. Cover, and stew very gently until the apples
are tender, then remove them, brush the tops of them with white of
egg, and sprinkle liberally with castor sugar. Add the gelatine to the
contents of the stewpan, stir until dissolved, then strain into a basin,
and colour red with cochineal. Place the apples in a deep glass dish,
pour the syrup round, and put aside in a cold .place until set.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, iod. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
2076. — APRICOT COMPOTE. (See Compote of Fruit,
No. 2099, and Stewed Fruit, No. 2160.)
2077. — APRICOT MOULD. (Fr.— Pain d’Abricot.)
Ingredients. — if pints of milk, 2 ozs. of ground rice, 1 oz. of castor
sugar, 4 tablespoonfuls of apricot jam, or \ gill apricot pulp, and f a
gill of cream.
Method. — Bring the milk to boiling point, sprinkle in the ground
rice, and simmer for about 10 minutes. Dilute the jam or pulp with a
tablespoonful of hot water, and press it through a sieve or strainer into the
RECIPES FOR COLD SWEETS
ioig
stewpan. Add the sugar, and when well-mixed, pour the preparation
into a wetted border mould. Let it stand until set, then turn out,
and pile the stiffly-whipped sweetened cream in the centre.
Time. — From 25 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, iod. Sufficient for
5 or 6 persons.
2078. — APRICOT TRIFLE. (Fr.— . Trifle d’Abricot.)
Ingredients. — 1 bottle or tin of apricots, stale sponge cake, ^ of a pint
of cream, 1 tablespoonful of almonds blanched and shredded, 1 table-
spoonful of castor sugar, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice.
Method. — Strain the apricots, and boil the syrup and sugar together
for \ an hour. Cut the sponge cake into J-inch slices, and stamp them
out into rounds a little larger than } an apricot. Place them on a dish,
pour the syrup over them, and let them soak for 1 hour. Now remove
them to the dish in which they will be served, and add an apricot to
each piece. Strain the syrup, mix with it the lemon-juice, and pour
it over the apricots. Stick the shredded almonds in the apricots,
and serve the stiffly-whipped sweetened cream piled in the centre of
the dish. Peaches or pineapple may also be used in this manner,
fhe trimmings of the latter being mixed with the cream. For a plain
dish, stale bread may replace the sponge cake, and a good custard
may be substituted for the cream.
Time. — Altogether, 2-|- hours. Average Cost, 2s. Sufficient for 6 or 7
persons.
2079. — ARROWROOT BLANCMANGE.
Ingredients. — 4 heaped tablespoonfuls of arrowroot, sugar to taste,
it pints of milk, lemon-rind, vanilla or other flavouring.
Method. — Mix the arrowroot smoothly with a little cold milk, bring
the remainder to boiling point, put in the flavouring ingredient, and infuse
for 20 minutes. Strain the milk over the blended arrowroot and stir,
replace in the stewpan, sweeten to taste, and boil gently for a few
minutes. Rinse the mould with cold water, pour in the preparation,
and put aside until set. Serve with stewed fruit, jam, or cold custard
sauce.
Time. — About 35 minutes. Average Cost, 7d. or 8d. Sufficient for
4 or 5 persons.
2080. — BANANA BLANC MANGE.
Ingredients. — 2 bananas. 1 quart of milk, 2 ozs. of cornflour, 2 ozs. of
castor sugar, 2 yolks of eggs, \ a teaspoonful of vanilla essence.
Method. — Mix the cornflour smoothly with a little milk, boil the
remainder, add the sugar and blended cornflour, and simmer gently
1020
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
for 5 minutes. Let it cool, add the beaten yolks of eggs, and stir by
the side of the fire until they thicken. Now put in the bananas thinly-
sliced, and the vanilla essence, and pour the preparation into a wetted
mould.
Time. — From 30 to 35 minutes. Average Cost, rod. Sufficient for 6
or 7 persons. Seasonable at any time.
2081. — BANANA CANTALOUP.
Ingredients. — Firm bananas, crushed ice, Krona pepper.
Method. — -Let the bananas remain on ice for at least 12 hours, then
remove the skins, and cut the bananas into thick slices. Fill a finger
bowl with finely-crushed ice, piling it high in the centre, and place the
bowl on a dish covered with a serviette. Replace the sliced bananas
in their original form, and arrange them overlapping each other round
the bowl of ice. Serve with salt and Krona pepper.
Time. — 12 to 13 hours. Average Cost, Good Bananas, 2d. each.
Allow 1 to each person.
2082. — BANANA CHARLOTTE.
Ingredients. — ^ a pint of banana pulp, J of a pint of stiffly-whipped
cream, \ an oz. of gelatine, sugar to taste, Savoy biscuits or strips of
bread (see Apple Charlotte, No. 1755).
Method. — Obtain the pulp by passing the bananas through a fine
sieve. Soak the gelatine in cold water, and stir it over the fire until
dissolved. Prepare the mould as directed in the recipe for making
Apple Charlotte. Mix the banana pulp and cream lightly to-
gether, sweeten to taste, add the gelatine, and, when well mixed,
turn into the prepared mould.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, is. 9d., exclusive of Savoy
biscuits. Sufficient for a pint mould.
2083. — BANANA TRIFLE. (Fr.— Trifle de Banane.)
Ingredients. — 1 pint of cream, \ a pint of lemon jelly, 6 bananas,
1 of an oz. of gelatine, 2 tablespoonfuls of apricot jam sieved, a good
tablespoonful of almonds, 2 dozen of ratafias, 1 wineglassful of Maras-
chino or Curafoa, carmine.
Method. — Pass the bananas through a hair sieve, add the jam, cool
liquid jelly, and the Maraschino or Curafoa. Dissolve the gelatine
in a tablespoonful of water, mix with the other ingredients, add a few
drops of carmine to brighten the colour, and pour into a deep dish.
Blanch, shred, bake the almonds brown, and let them become perfectly
cold. When ready to serve, whip the cream stiffly, sweeten to taste
with castor sugar, and, if liked, flavour with Maraschino or Curafoa.
RECIPES FOR COLD SWEETS
1021
Pile lightly on the top of the jellied preparation, sprinkle the almonds
over the entire surface, and garnish the base with ratafias.
Time. — About 3 or 4 hours. Average Cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for
1 dish. Seasonable at any time.
2084. — BLANC MANGE. (See Arrowroot Blancmange,
No. 2079, Vanilla Blancmange, No. 2171,
Cornflour Blancmange, No. 2100, etc.)
2085. — BORDER OF FIGS WITH CREAM. (Fr.—
Bordure de Figues a la Creme.)
Ingredients — J- a lb. of dried figs, 1 oz. of castor sugar, of an oz. of
leaf gelatine, \ a pint of water, of a pint of cream, the thinly-cut rind
of -J- a lemon,
Method. — Cut the figs into small pieces, put them into a jar with the
water (sherry or claret may replace a little of the water if liked), sugar
ann lemon-rind, simmer gently on the stove or in the oven until tender,
and rub through a fine sieve. Stir in 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, pour
the preparation in a mould, previous^ wetted, or lined with jelly, if
preferred. When set, turn out a nd serve, the stiffly -whipped sweetened
cream piled in the centre.
Time. — From ij to i-jj- hours. Average Cost, is. 4d. to is. 6d.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
2086. — BORDER OF FRUIT. (Fr.— Bordure de Fruits.)
Ingredients. — 2 eggs, the weight of 2 eggs in flour, the weight of 2
eggs in sugar, 2 bananas, 1 orange, of a lb. of grapes, 1 oz. of preserved
cherries, 2 ozs. of strawberries, L of a pint of water, \ a lb. of loaf sugar,
J a gill of brandy and Maraschino (mixed), the juice of 1 lemon, a few
pistachios, -J- a pint of whipped cream.
Method. — -Whiskithe eggs and sugar to a frothy consistency, and sprinkle
the flour in lightly. Bake in a quick oven in greased border moulds
for about 10 minutes. When cooked, turn on a sieve to cool. Boil
the sugar and water for about 20 minutes until a thick syrup is ob-
tained, flavour this with lemon-juice and the liqueurs. Prepare the
fruit and put it into the syrup. Soak the borders of cake with the
syrup, pile up the fruit, and force wbipped-cream round the edge
of the border and on the fruit daintily by means of a bag and rose
pipe. Any fruit may be used, such as raspberries and red currants.
The liqueurs also may be varied. Decorate the dish with blanched
pistachios and a few preserved cherries.
Time. — About 1^ hours. Average Cost, 2s. qd. to 3s. 6d. Sufficient
for 6 or 7 persons.
1022
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
2087. — BORDER OF PRUNES WITH CREAM. ( Fr
Bordures de Prunes a la Creme.)
Ingredients. — i lb. of prunes, of a lb. of loaf sugar, an oz. of leaf
gelatine, i gill of cream, i gill of claret, the thinly cut rind of \ a lemon,
i inch of cinamon, lemon or wine jelly.
Method. — Stone the prunes, place them in a jar with the claret,
sugar, lemon- rind, cinnamon, and \ of a pint of water, stand the jar
in a saucepan of boiling water or in a cool oven, cook until tender,
and rub through a fine sieve. Dissolve the gelatine in a little water,
and stir it into the puree. Have ready a border mould lined with wine
jelly, pour in the preparation, let it remain until set, then turn out,
and serve with the stiffly-whipped sweetened cream piled in the centre.
Time. — From ij- to i| hours. Average Cost, is. 9d. Sufficient for 5
or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
2088. — BOSTON CUP PUDDING.
Ingredients. — 1 teacupful of flour, 1 teacupful of brown moist sugar,
1 a teacupful of milk, 1 teaspoonful of baking-powder, \ a teaspoonful
of grated lemon-rind, i£ ozs. of butter, 1 egg, raspberry jam.
Method. — Cream the but ter and sugar well together, beat the egg in, then
add the lemon-rind and flour, stir in the milk, and lastly the baking-
powder. Have ready a buttered Yorkshire pudding tin, pour in the pre-
paration, and bake from 20 to 25 minutes in a moderately hot oven.
When cold, split, spread a good layer of jam between, and serve.
Time. — To bake, from 20 to 25 minutes. Average Cost, yd. Sufficient
for 1 dish.
2089. — CANNELONS.
Ingredients. — Strips of puff paste, about 16 inches long and 1 inch
wide, whipped cream, preserved fruit, jam, or jelly.
Method. — Wrap the paste round short sticks, which must be previ-
ously greased and floured, and brush them over with egg. Bake in a
moderately hot oven, and, when cold, fdl them with sweetened stiffly-
whipped cream, fruit, jam, or jelly. Also see Cornucopians.
Time. — To bake, about 15 minutes. Average Cost, id. to 2d. each.
Allow 1 to each person.
2090. — CHERRY COMPOTE. ( See Compote of Fruit,
No. 2099, and Stewed Fruit, No. 2160.)
2091. — CHOCOLATE FARINA.
Ingredients. — >8 ozs. of chocolate, 4 ozs. of farina (cornflour will serve),
2 ozs. of sugar, 1 quart of milk, vanilla.
RECIPES FOR COLD SWEETS
1023
Method. — Mix the farina, or cornflour, smoothly with a little milk,
heat the remainder, add the sugar and chocolate in small pieces, and
stir until dissolved. Pour the boiling milk, etc., over the cornflour,
stirring meanwhile, replace in the stewpan, and simmer gently for 10
minutes, stirring continuously. Add vanilla to taste, and pour into
a mould rinsed with cold water.
Time. — About 40 minutes. Average Cost, is. 3d. Sufficient for 4 or 5
persons.
2092. — CHOCOLATE MOULD. {Fr. — Pain au
Chocolat.)
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of chocolate, 1 oz. of castor sugar, 1 oz. of gelatine,
1 pint of milk, vanilla.
Method. — Soak the gelatine in 1 or 2 tablespoonfuls of milk, and boil
the remainder with the chocolate. When perfectly smooth, stir in the
sugar and gelatine, add vanilla essence to taste, let the mixture cool a
little, then pour into 1 large or several small moulds.
Time. — About \ an hour. Average Cost, 8d. to 9d. Sufficient
for 4 or 5 persons.
2093. — CHOCOLATE MOULD. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 2 ozs. of chocolate, 2 ozs. of cornflour, 1 oz. of loaf
sugar, pints of milk, liquid caramel (see p. 214).
Method. — Mix the cornflour smoothly with a little milk, put the rest
into a stewpan with the chocolate grated or broken into small pieces,
add the sugar, and simmer until dissolved. Then add the blended
cornflour and milk, simmer very gently for about 5 minutes, and
deepen the colour by adding a few drops of caramel. Turn the prepara-
tion into a wet mould, and let it remain in a cold place until set.
Time. — About \ an hour. Average Cost, 6d. Sufficient for 3 or 4
persons.
2094. — COBURG TRIFLE. (Fr.— Trifle i la Coburg.)
Ingredients. — 6 stale sponge cakes, macaroons, raspberry or apricot-
jam, \ a pint of cream, {- of a pint of custard, No. 2104, 1 glass of
sherry or Marsala, angelica, glace cherries, almonds blanched and
shredded.
Method. — Slice the sponge cakes, spread \ of them with jam, and
cover with the remainder. Arrange them compactly in a glass dish,
pour the wine over them, place the macaroons on the top in the form
of a pyramid, and cover with the custhrd. Whip the cream stiffly, pile
it on lightly, and garnish with strips of angelica and cherries and the
1024 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
shredded almonds. This dish should be made at least i hour before
serving.
Time. — About \ an hour, after the custard is made. Average
Cost, 3s. Sufficient for 1 large dish.
2095. — COFFEE CUSTARD. (Fr. — Petites Cremes
au Cafe.)
Ingredients. — Coffee essence, 4 yolks of eggs, 2 whites of eggs, \ a
pint of milk, sugar to taste.
Method. — Bring the milk nearly to boiling point, pour it over the eggs
previously beaten, and add sugar and coffee essence to taste. Pour
the custard into buttered china ramakin cases, bake until set, and
serve either hot or cold.
Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. Sufficient for 6 or 8
ramakins.
Note. — -Also see Moka Custard for Filling F.clairs.
2096. — COFFEE MOULD.
Ingredients. — 1 pint of milk, 1 dessertspoonful of coffee essence,
i\ ozs. of castor sugar, \ an oz. of leaf gelatine.
Method. — Boil the milk, pour it over the gelatine; when dissolved stir
in the sugar and coffee essence to taste. Stir occasionally until the
preparation becomes cold and creamy, then pour into a wetted mould.
Time. — From 30 to 35 minutes. Average Cost, 4d. Sufficient for 4 or
5 persons.
2097. — COLD CABINET PUDDING. (Fr.— Pouding
Cabinet froid.)
Ingredients. — Savoy biscuits, 2 ozs. of ratafias, \ a pint of milk, \
a gill of cream, 1 oz. of castor sugar, \ an oz. of leaf gelatine, 4 yolks
of eggs, glace cherries, vanilla essence, wine jelly.
Method. — Decorate the bottom of a charlotte mould, previously
lined with a layer of jelly, with halves or rings of cherries, and
line the sides of the mould with biscuits, placing them alternately
back and front next the tin. Bring the milk nearly to boiling
point, add the beaten yolks of eggs, and stir by the side of
the fire until they thicken. Dissolve the gelatine and sugar in 1 or 2
tablespoonfuls of water, strain into the custard, and add vanilla essence
to taste. Place the ratafias and trimmings of the Savoy biscuits in
the mould, add the cream to the custard when cool, and pour into the
mould. Let it stand on ice or in a cool place until set, then turn out
and serve. »
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, is. 6d. Sufficient for 1 medium
sized mould.
RECIPES FOR COLD SWEETS
1025
2098. — COMPOTE OF APPLES WITH CREAM. ( Fr
Compote de Pommes a la Creme.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of sour cooking apples, 4 ozs. of loaf sugar, 1 oz. of
vanilla sugar, \ a pint of cream, \ a pint of milk, 2 cloves, the thinly-cut
rind of \ a lemon, 2 yolks of eggs, 1 glass of sherry, 1 glass of Maraschino.
Meihod. — Pare, core and stew the apples with the loaf sugar, cloves,
lemon-rind, and a little water until tender, then drain well, and place
them in a glass dish. Bring the milk nearly to boiling point, add the
beaten yolks of eggs, stir, and cook slowly until they thicken, then add
the cherry and vanilla sugar. Stir frequentlv until the custard is quite
cold, then pour it over the apples. Whip the cream stiffly, sweeten
to taste with castor sugar, add the Maraschino, pile lightly on the top
of the custard, then serve.
Time. — Altogether, from 2 to 2-J- hours. Average Cost, is. 9d. to 2s.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
2099. — COMPOTE OF FRUIT. ( Fr . — Compote de
Fruits.)
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of loaf sugar, £ of a pint of water, fruit either
fresh or preserved.
Method. — Dissolve the sugar in the water, boil until well reduced,
skimming meanwhile. Immersion for a few minutes is all that is
necessary when using preserved fruits ; but fresh fruit must be sim-
mered in the prepared syrup until sufficiently cooked, but not broken.
The compote may be served as a separate sweet, or as an accompani-
ment to plain creams, blancmange, etc.
2100. — CORNFLOUR BLANC MANGE.
Ingredients. — 2 ozs. of cornflour or arrowroot, i| ozs. of castor sugar,
1 pint of milk, bay-leaf, or other flavouring.
Method. — Mix the cornflour smoothly with a little milk, boil the rest
with the bay-leaf, and let it infuse for 10 or 15 minutes. Now stir in
the blended cornflour, and cook gently for 5 minutes, then remove the
bay-leaf, add the sugar, and pour into a mould, previously rinsed with
cold water. Serve with jam, stewed fruit, or fruit syrup.
Time.— About £ an hour. Average Cost, qd. Sufficient for 4 or 5
persons.
2101. — CREAM EGGS.
Ingredients. — Vanilla blancmange (t£ quantities of recipe No. 2171),
7 eggs.
Method. — Make a small hole at the end of each egg, empty them,
L L
1026
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
and as far as possible keep the yolks separate from the whites. Make
the vanilla custard as directed, using for the purpose 4 or 5 of the yolks,
and the whites of 3 eggs. When cool, put it into the egg-shells, place
them in an upright position on the unbroken end until set, then remove
the shells.
Time. — To prepare, about 1 hour. Average Cost, 2s. 3d. Sufficient for
6 or 7 persons.
2102. — CREAM SNOW. (Fr. — Creme a la Neige.)
Ingredients. — 1 pint of cream, the whites of 2 eggs, 1 tablespoonful of
castor sugar, vanilla essence.
Method. — Whip the cream and whites of eggs separately to a stiff froth,
then mix them lightly together, add the sugar, and flavour to taste with
vanilla. Pile in a glass dish, and, if liked, garnish with cherries and
strips of angelica.
Time. — About 20 mintues. Average Cost, is. 9J. to 2s. Sufficient for
6 or 7 persons.
2103. — CUSTARD BOILED, No. 1.
Ingredients. — \ a pint of milk, 3 yolks of eggs, 1 to \\ ozs. of castor
sugar, according to taste, lemon-rind, bay-leaf, vanilla-pod, or other
flavouring, 2 tablespoonfuls of thick cream.
Method. — Rinse a stewpan with cold water, to prevent the milk
sticking to the bottom. Put in the milk and flavouring ingredient,
simmer gently until pleasantly flavoured, and add the sugar. Strain
on to the eggs stirring meanwhile, return to the stewpan, and stir by
the side of the fire until the mixture thickens. Considerable care is
needed to cook custard in this manner without curdling it, and any one
inexperienced should, instead of replacing the preparation in the stew-
pan, pour it into a jug or double saucepan, place whichever is used in a
saucepan of boiling water, and stir until the custard coats the spoon.
Add the cream, stir 2 or 3 minutes longer to cook the cream, and let the
custard cool, stirring frequently meanwhile.
Time. — From 35 to 45 minutes. Average Cost, 7d. Sufficient for 1 pint.
2104. — CUSTARD BOILED, No. 2.
Ingredients. — \ a pint of milk, 2 eggs, 1 oz. of loaf sugar, bay-leaf,
lemon-rind, or other flavouring.
Method. — Prepare the custard as directed in the preceding recipe.
Use any of the flavouring ingredients enumerated there, or, if pre-
ferred, flavour with vanilla or other essence.
Time. — From 35 to 45 minutes. Average Cost, 4d. Sufficient for f- of
a pint.
RECIPES FOR COLD SWEETS
1027
2105. — CUSTARD BOILED, No. 3.
Ingredients. — i pint of milk, i oz. of sugar, i teaspoonful of cornflour,
1 egg, lemon-rind or other flavouring.
Method. — Mix the cornflour smoothly with a little milk, simmer the
remainder with the lemon-rind until pleasantly flavoured, then strain
it on the blended cornflour, stirring meanwhile. Replace in the stew-
pan, simmer gently for 3 or 4 minutes to cook the cornflour, add the
sugar, and let the preparation cool slightly. Beat the egg, add it to
the contents of the stewpan, stir by the side of the fire for a few minutes,
then let the custard cool.
Time. — About 25 minutes. Average Cost, 4d. Sufficient for 1 pint.
2106. — CUSTARD MOULD.
Ingredients. — 1 pint of milk, 3 eggs, 1 oz. of castor sugar, |- of an oz. of
leaf gelatine, 1 tablespoonful of brandy, vanilla essence.
Method. — Bring the milk nearly to boiling point, add the sugar and
well-beaten eggs, and stir by the side of the fire until the mixture
thickens, but do not let it boil. Pour it on the gelatine in a basin,
add the brandy and vanilla, stir until dissolved, then pour into 1 large
or several small moulds. Sherry may replace the brandy, or it may be
omitted altogether. A little cold jam sauce or fruit syrup served round
the dish will be found an improvement.
Time. — About £ an hour. Average Cost, gd. Sufficient for 4 or 5
persons.
2107. — CUSTARD MOULD. ( See Caramel Pudding,
No. 1800.)
2108. — DAMSON COMPOTE. ( See Compote of Fruit,
No. 2099, and Stewed Fruit, No. 2160.)
2109. — DEVONSHIRE JUNKET. (See Junket,
No. 2128.)
2110. — FIG MOULD.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of figs, 6 ozs. of sugar, 1 oz. of leaf gelatine, 1 lemon,
1 pint of water.
Method. —Cut the figs into small pieces, put them into a stewpan with
the water, sugar, the juice and thinly-cut rind of the lemon, and simmer
until tender. Dissolve the gelatine in 3 tablespoonfuls of water, add
it to the rest of the ingredients, and pour the mixture into 1 large or
several small moulds. Serve with whipped-cream or a good custard
sauce.
Time. — About \ an hour. Average Cost, 8d. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
1028
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
21 1 1. - FLOATING ISLAND.
Ingredients. — i pint of cream, sweetened and stiffly whipped, 2 whites
of eggs, 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of raspberry jam or red currant jelly.
Method. — Beat up the whites of eggs till stiff and mix the jam or jelly
lightly. Spread the whipped cream lightly at the bottom of a glass dish,
and drop tablespoonfuls of the egg mixture on the surface, making
each small pile as rocky as possible.
Time. — -About b an hour. Average Cost, 2s. to 2s. 3d. Sufficient
for 1 large dish.
2112. — FRUIT BLANC MANGE.
Ingredients. — Cornflour or ground rice blancmange, stewed fruit.
Method. — Make the blancmange as directed, and put a good \a,yer
at the bottom of large-sized dariol moulds. When set, place in each
mould a much smaller dariol, and fill the space between the two with
blancmange. Let the smaller dariols remain until the blancmange is
firm, then remove them, fill the cavity with stewed fruit, and cover
with blancmange. When set, turn out, and serve with custard or
whipped cream.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, uncertain.
2113. — FRUIT MOULDS. ( See Jelly with Bananas,
No. 1999, Jelly with Fruit, No. 2001, and
Jelly with Oranges, No. 2002.)
2114. — FRUIT PUDDING.
Ingredients. — Stewed fruit, stale sponge cakes.
Method. — Cut the sponge cake into b-inch slices, and with them line a
pudding basin. Stew the fruit in a jar until tender, sweeten to taste
and pour both fruit and syrup into the basin. Cover with slices of cake,
press it down with a plate and weight until cold, then serve with a good
custard sauce. For a plain pudding, stale bread may be used instead
of the cake.
2115. — FRUIT SALAD. (S^Compote of Fruit, No. 2099.)
2116. — GENEVA WAFERS.
Ingredients. — 3 ozs. of fine flour, 2 ozs. of castor sugar, 3 ozs. of butter,
2 eggs, vanilla essence, cream, apricot jam.
Method. — Cream the butter and sugar well together, beat each egg in
separately, add a few drops of vanilla, and stir the flour in as lightly
as possible. Put the mixture into a forcing-bag with a large plain pipe,
RECIPES FOR COLD SWEETS
1029
force it out on a well-buttered baking-tin in portions that would just
fill a teaspoon, and spread out thinly with a hot wet palette-knite.
Bake in a. moderate oven until set, then take them out carefully with a
palette-knife, and wrap them round buttered cornet tins. Place one
inside the other, to keep them in shape, replace in the oven, and bake
until lightly browned, turning them frequently in order that all parts
may be equally coloured. When cool remove the moulds, partly fill
them with stiffly-whipped sweetened cream, add a little jam, and fill
the remaining space with cream.
Time. — About 1 \ hours. Average Cost, is. 9d. to 2s. Sufficient for
6 or 7 persons.
2117. — GLAZED APPLES.
Ingredients. — Small apples of equal size, lemon-juice, syrup No. 2277,
apricot jam or marmalade, red currant jelly, strips of angelica, sugar.
Method. — Pare and core the apples, and simmer them very gently in
water to which sugar to taste and a little lemon-juice has been added.
Drain well, pour over them a little syrup, and cover closely. When
cold, coat the apples with apricot marmalade, fill the cavities from
which the cores were removed with jelly, and decorate tastefully with
strips or leaves of angelica.
Time. — From 3 to 3^ hours. Average Cost, 2-|d. each. Allow 1
to each person.
2118. — GOOSEBERRIES, COMPOTE OF. (See Compote
of Fruit, No. 2099, and Stewed Fruit, No. 2160.)
2119. — GOOSEBERRY CHARLOTTE. (Fr.— Char-
lotte de Groseilles Vertes.)
Ingredients.— Gooseberry cream, No. 2043, finger biscuits, sponge cake,
or Genoise.
Method. -Line a plain charlotte mould with the biscuits or slices of the
cake, cutting them to fit both the bottom and sides of the mould care-
fully. Make the cream as directed; when on the point of setting, turn
it into the prepared mould, and set on ice until firm.
Time — About \\ hours. Average Cost, 3s. to 3s. 6d. Sufficient
for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable, May to August.
2120. — GOOSEBERRY FOOL.
Ingredients. — 1 quart of green gooseberries, of a lb. of loaf sugar, 1
pint of cream, \ a pint of water.
Method. — Top and tail the gooseberries, cook them until tender with
the water and sugar in a jar placed in a saucepan of boiling water. Rub
1030
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
them through a hair sieve, add more sugar if necessary, and let the pulp
become quite cold. Whip the cream stiffly, and stir it into the prepara-
tion a few minutes before serving. Send to table in custard-glasses
or in i large dish.
Time. — From i|- to hours. Average Cost, 2s. 3d. to 2s. 6d.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable from May to August.
2121. — GOOSEBERRY TRIFLE.
Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of green gooseberries, 6 ozs. of sugar, 1 of a pint of
cream, \ a pint of custard No. 2104, 3 sponge cakes, 1 oz. of almonds.
Method. — Stew the gooseberries with the sugar and 4 tablespoonfuls
of water in a jar until tender, then rub through a fine sieve. Divide
each sponge cake into 3 or 4 slices, place them in a deep dish, cover with
the gooseberry pulp, pour over the warm custard, and allow the prepara-
tion to become perfectly cold. When ready to serve whip the cream
stiffly, spread it lightly over the entire surface, sprinkle with almonds,
previously blanched, shredded and baked golden-brown, and serve.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, is. 9d. to 2s. Sufficient for 6
or 7 persons. Seasonable from May to August.
2122. — GREEN FIG COMPOTE.
Ingredients. — 1 pint of green figs (tinned ones will serve), \ a lb. of
loaf sugar, f of a pint of water, 1 dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, fmelv-
grated rind of 1 lemon.
Method. — Boil the water, sugar and lemon-rind for 20 minutes,
add the figs, and simmer very gently until tender. Remove very
carefully, add the lemon-juice to the syrup, strain it over the figs, and,
when cold, serve. Dried figs may be prepared in the same way.
2123. — GREENGAGES, COMPOTE OF. {See Compote
of Fruit, No. 2099, and Stewed Fruit, No. 2160. ^
2124. — GROUND RICE BLANC-MANGE.
Ingredients. — \\ ozs. of ground rice, i\ ozs. of castor sugar, 1 pint of
milk, vanilla-pod, lemon-rind or other flavouring.
Method. — Mix the ground rice smoothly with a little milk, boil the
remainder with the vanilla-pod or lemon-rind, and let it infuse for a few
minutes. Strain on to the blended rice, stirring meanwhile; replace
in the stewpan, and simmer gently for 10 minutes. Now add the sugar,
and pour into a wet mould.
Time. — About -1- an hour. Average Cost, 4d. Sufficient for 4 or 5
persons.
RECIPES FOR COLD SWEETS
1031
2125. — ICED ORANGES.
Ingredients. — Oranges, icing sugar, and to each lb. allow 2 stiffly-
whipped whites of eggs.
Method. — Remove the rinds and pith carefully, and pass a thread
through the centre of each orange. Beat the sugar and whites of eggs
together until quite smooth, dip each orange in separately, and tie them
securely to a stick. Place the stick across the oven, which must be
very cool, and let them remain until dry. If well-coated and smoothed
with a palette knife they have the appearance of balls of snow.
Time. — 2 hours. Average Cost, D-d. each.
2126. — ISINGLASS BLANC-MANGE.
Ingredients. — 1 oz. of patent isinglass, sugar to taste, -J- a pint of
cream, 1 pint of milk, 1 wineglassful of sherry, 2 or 3 thin strips of
lemon-rind.
Method. — Soak the isinglass and lemon-rind in the milk for 2 hours,
then simmer gently for 20 minutes. Strain, replace in the stewpan,
add the cream, sweeten to taste, and boil up. When cool, stir in the
cream, and turn into a mould rinsed with cold water.
Time. — About 3 hours. Average Cost, is. 9d. Sufficient for 5 or 6
persons.
2127. — JAUNE-MANGE.
Ingredients. — The yolks of 6 eggs, 1 oz. of gelatine, sugar to taste,
the thin rind and strained juice of 1 large lemon, \ a pint of white wine,
1 pint of water.
Method. — Soak the gelatine in the water for an hour, then add the
lemon-rind, and simmer gently until the gelatine is dissolved. Strain
into a jug containing the yolks of eggs, add the wine and lemon-juice,
and sweeten to taste. Place the jug in a saucepan of boiling water,
stir until the contents thicken, and, when cool, pour into a mould
rinsed with cold water.
Time. —About 1 hour. Average Cost, is. 3d. to is. 6d. Sufficient for about
1 quart.
2128. — JUNKET.
Ingredients. — 1 pint of milk, junket powder, or 1 dessertspoonful of
essence of rennet, 1 teaspoonful of castor sugar.
Method. — Warm the milk (the exact temperature should be 98° F.,
the natural heat of the milk), put it into the bowl or deep dish in which
it will be served, add the sugar, and stir in the rennet or junket powder.
Let it remain in a moderately warm place until set. The amount of
junket powder required is stated on the wrapper; its use may be recom-
1032
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
mended in preference to the liquid essence, which, in consequence of its,
varying strength, is uncertain in its results.
Time. — About 1% hours, to coagulate the milk. Average Cost, qd.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
2129.— LEMON BLANC MANGE. (See Vanilla Blanc-
mange, No. 2171.)
Follow the directions given, substituting lemon-rind for the vanilla
pod.
2130.— LEMON SPONGE.
Ingredients. — \ a pint of water, 1 oz. of castor sugar, £ an oz. of leaf
gelatine, 1 lemon, 1 white of egg.
Method. — Heat the water, sugar, gelatine and thinly-cut lemon-rind
together, stir until the gelatine is dissolved, then strain to the white
of egg and lemon-juice previously mixed in a large basin. Whisk all
together until stiff, then pile on a dish, and, if liked, colour the last
portion with carmine or cochineal, and place it on the top. If preferred,
the sponge may be set in a mould rinsed with cold water, and turned out
when firm.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 3d. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
2131. — MACARONI, SWEET.
Ingredients. — J of a lb. of macaroni, i-|- pints of milk, 3 ozs. of sugar,
the thinly-cut rind of 1 lemon, f of a pint of custard No. 2104, nutmeg.
Method. — Boil the milk, add the sugar, lemon-rind, macaroni in 3-inch
lengths, and simmer gently until tender, but firm and unbroken.
Place the macaroni in a deep dish, let it become quite cold, then pour
over the prepared cold custard, grate with nutmeg, and serve.
Time. — About x-|- hours. Average Cost, iod. Sufficient for 4 or 5
persons.
2132. — MACAROON TRIFLE.
Ingredients. — 12 or 14 macaroons, 6 ratafias, 1 oz. of castor sugar,
3 ozs. of glace fruits (cherries, etc.), \ of an oz. of pistachios, 2 eggs,
U gills of milk, 1 gill of cream, 1 gill of sherry.
Method. — Bring the milk nearly to boiling point, add the sugar and
beaten yolks of eggs, and stir by the side of the fire until the mixture
thickens, Dut do not let it boil, or the eggs may curdle. Place the
macaroons compactly in a deep dish, add the crumbled ratafias, and
pour over the sherry. Stir the custard frequently until quite cold,
SWEETS.
i. Sweet Pastry.
2. Gooseberry Tart.
3. Cherry Tartlets.
37
LI.
RECIPES FOR COLD SWEETS
io 33
then pour it over the biscuits, pile the stiffly-whipped sweetened cream
on the top, and garnish with shredded pistachios and fruits.
Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, 2s. qd. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
2133. — MARBLED MOULD.
Ingredients.— Blancmange, coffee essence, cochineal, saffron-yellow,
spinach-green.
Method. — Prepare the blancmange according to the directions given
{see Cornflour and Ground Rice Blancmanges, No. 2100 and 2124), divide
it into 4 equal parts, and colour them respectively with coffee essence,
cochineal, saffron-yellow and spinach-green. Mould separately, and,
when cool, divide in irregularly-shaped pieces about the size of a walnut.
Have ready some white blancmange on the point of setting. Place the
coloured pieces in a mould, leaving spaces between them, till these
with white blancmange, and put aside until set.
Time. — About 12 hours. Average Cost, about is. for 1 large mould.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
2134. — MELON CANTALOUP.
Ingredients. — 1 Rock melon, crushed ice. Krona pepper.
Method. — Allow the melon to remain imbedded in ice for at least
12 hours. Leave the skin on, cut the melon into slices, and arrange
round a bowl of ice, as directed in Banana Cantaloup, No. 2081.
Time. — From 12 to 13 hours. Average Cost, 5s. to 7s. 6d. Sufficient
for 8 or 9 persons.
2135. — MERINGUES.
Ingredients. — 6 whites of eggs, \ a lb. of castor sugar.
Method. — Put the whites of eggs in a bowl or basin with a pinch of
salt, and whisk them stiffly. Sieve the sugar, stir in as lightly as possible
with a spoon, folding it in, rather than mixing it with, the whites of
eggs. Cover a f-inch thick board or a baking-tin with foolscap paper
(slightly oiled). Put the preparation into a forcing-bag attached to a
plain pipe, and press on to the paper small round or oval portions in
rows about 1 inch apart. Dredge them well with castor sugar, and
bake in a cool oven for about 2 hours, when they should have acquired
a pale fawn colour, and be perfectly crisp. Turn them over, scoop
out any portion not hardened, and let them remain in a warm place
until dry. Use as required.
Time. — Altogether, about hours. Average Cost, 8d. Sufficient for
1 dish.
Note. — When a forcing-bag and pipe are not available, the mixture may be
shaped in the form of an egg, by means of a. spoon and knife, in the manner
already described in reference to Quenelles of Veal. Meringue shells may
be kept for a considerable time in an air-tight tin box.
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1034
2136. — MERINGUES A LA CHANTILLY.
Ingredients. — 16 meringue cases, | to a pint of cream, according
to the size of the shells, vanilla sugar.
Method. — Prepare the shells as directed in the preceding recipe.
Whip the cream stiffly, sweeten to taste with vanilla sugar, place 2
together, enclosing the cream, and serve.
Time. — About 2c minutes, after the shells are prepared. Average Cost,
is. 6d. to is. 9d. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
2137. — MILAN SOUFFLE. (Fr. — Souffle Milanaise.)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of double cream, \ oz. of gelatine, 2 ozs. of
castor sugar, the yolks of 6 eggs, the juice of 3 lemons, the finely-grated
rinds of 2 lemons.
Method. — Whisk the yolks of eggs and sugar in a stewpan over the
tire until creamy, but do not let the mixture boil. Stir in the lemon-rind
and juice, and put aside till cold. Soak the gelatine in a little cold water,
then stir it over the lire until dissolved, and strain. Whip the cream
stiffly, add the gelatine, and stir the egg mixture lightly in. Turn
into a silver or china souffle dish, and place in a charged ice cabinet
for about 2 hours, then serve.
Time. — 2 hours. Average Cost, is. 6d. to is. qd. Sufficient for 5 or 6
persons.
2138. — NOUGAT CORNETS WITH CREAM. (Fr —
Cornets de Nougat a la Creme.)
Ingredients. — \ a lt>. of sweet almonds, \ a, lb. of castor sugar, the
juice of \ a lemon, 1 gill of cream, vanilla sugar, pistachios.
Method. — Blanch, shred and bake the almonds pale-brown. Put
the sugar and strained lemon- juice into a sugar boiler, cook until golden-
brown, and add the prepared almonds. Let the mixture boil up again,
then pour on to an oiled slab, and quickly stamp out some rounds
about 2-|- inches in diameter. Wrap each one quickly round an oiled
cornet mould to keep the cornet in shape. When cold, remove the
moulds, fill the cornets with stiffly-whipped sweetened cream, garnish
with chopped pistachios, and serve.
Time. — Altogether, from ij to 1% hours. Average Cost, is. 9d. Suffi-
cient for 6 or 7 persons.
2139. — ORANGE COMPOTE. (. See Compote of Fruit,
No. 2099).
2140. — ORANGE CUSTARD.
Ingredients. — 4 oranges, 4 ozs. of loaf sugar, 4 eggs, of a pint of cream,
candied orange-peel.
RECIPES FOR COLD SWEETS
1035
Method. — Place the sugar, very thinly-cut rinds and juice of the
oranges in a basin, and add i^- pints of boiling water. Let these in-
gredients remain covered for 2 hours, then strain into a stewpan, and
bring nearly to boiling point. Add the beaten eggs, and stir by the
side of the fire until they thicken. When cool, pour into custard-
glasses, and when quite cold, pile the stiffly-whipped cream on the top,
and garnish with fine strips of candied orange-peel.
Time. — From 3 to 3-^ hours. Average Cost, is. 6d. to is. 9d. Sufficient
for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable from November to August.
2141.— ORANGE FLOAT.
Ingredients. — 1 pint of cream, sweetened and stiffly whipped, 2 whites
of eggs, 3 tablespoonfuls of orange pulp, castor sugar.
Method. — Beat the whites of eggs and orange pulp together until
light, and sweeten to taste. Spread the whipped cream lightly at the
bottom of a glass dish, and drop spoonfuls of the egg mixture on the
surface, making each small pile as rocky as possible.
Time. — About J an hour. Average Cost, 2s. 3d. to 2s. 6d. Sufficient
for 1 large dish.
2142.— ORANGE MOULD.
Ingredients. — 4 oranges, £ of a pint of milk (about), 3 ozs. of sugar,
\ an oz. of gelatine.
Method. — Remove the orange-rind as thinly as possible, and cut it
into fine strips. Strain the orange-juice, mix with it milk to increase
the quantity to exactly 1 pint, and add the gelatine and sugar. Soak
for 2 hours, then bring gently to boiling point, and simmer for 2 or 3
minutes. Add more sugar if necessary, and pour into a wetted mould.
Time. — About 3 hours. Average Cost, Sd. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Seasonable from November to August.
2143.— ORANGE SPONGE.
Ingredients. — £ of a pint of orange juice, 2 whites of eggs, sugar to
taste, an oz. of gelatine.
Method. — Soak and afterwards dissolve the gelatine in a little boiling
water, add the orange-juice and sweeten to taste. When co’d, add
the whites of eggs, whisk until light, and either mould or serve piled
on a dish ( see Lemon Sponge, No. 2130). Raspberry sponge may be
made by substituting the strained juice of fresh raspberries for the
orange juice.
Time. — About 40 minutes. Average Cost, 9d. to is. Sufficient for 1
dish or large mould.
1036 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
2144. — ORANGES FILLED WITH JELLY.
Ingredients. — Oranges, jelly of 2 or 3 colours.
Method. — The rind of each orange must be shaped in the form of a
cup with a narrow handle across the top. Remove half the rind of
each orange, except that part which forms the handle, by means of
a sharp knife, and scoop out the pulp. When an ornamental dish is
required, cut the edge of both cup and handle into points, or some other
design. Fill the cups with jelly, decorate the light jelly with pis-
tachio nuts or angelica, and the dark jelly with shredded almonds, or,
if preferred, use whipped cream as a garnish.
Average Cost. — 3d. to qd. each. Allow 1 to each person.
2145. — PEACHES, COMPOTE OF. ( See Compote of
Fruit, No. 2099, and Stewed Fruit, No. 2160.)
2146. — PORCUPINE PUDDING.
Ingredients. — 6 stale sponge cakes, ij pints of milk, 2 ozs. of loaf sugar,
4 eggs, 1 oz. of almonds, raspberry jam, vanilla pod or bay-leaf, or other
flavouring.
Method. — Put 1 pint of milk, the flavouring ingredient, and the sugar
into a jug, add the eggs, well-beaten, and place the jug in a saucepan
of boiling water. Stir the contents until thick enough to coat the
spoon, then transfer the jug to a basin of cold water, and stir frequently
until the custard is cold. Meanwhile, blanch the almonds and shred
them lengthwise. Split each sponge cake in two, spread on a thick
layer of jam, replace the halves, and arrange them compactly in a glass
dish. Prick them well with a fork, pour the remainder of the milk
slowly over them, and stick in the almonds. Let them soak for a few
minutes, then pour over the custard, then serve.
Time. — About i-j- hours. Average Cost, is. 6d. Sufficient for 5 or 6
persons.
2147. — PRUNE MOULD.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of prunes, 4 ozs. of sugar, 1 oz. of leaf gelatine,
1^ pints of water, 1 lemon, cochineal.
Method. — Split the prunes and remove the stones; place them in a
stewpan with the water, sugar, juice and thinlv-cut rind of the lemon,
and simmer from 20 to 25 minutes. Melt the gelatine in 1 tablespoonful
of water, and mix with the contents of the stewpan, add a few drops of
cochineal, and turn into 1 large or several small moulds rinsed with cold
water.
Time. — Altogether, about 1 hour. Average Cost, 9d. Sufficient for
4 or 5 persons.
RECIPES FOR COLD SWEETS
1037
2148.— QUEEN MAB’S PUDDING.
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of castor sugar, 1 oz. of gelatine, 1 pint of milk,
a pint of double cream, 6 yolks of eggs, 2 ozs. of glace cherries halved,
1 oz. of candied citron peel shredded, vanilla essence.
Method. — Soak the gelatine in the milk for £ an hour, then stir it
over the fire until dissolved, and add the sugar. Cool slightly, put
in the yolks of eggs and cream, stir by the fire until the mixture thickens,
but it must not boil. Let it cool, add the cherries, citron, and vanilla
to taste, stir until on the point of setting, then turn into a mould previ-
ously lined with jelly, or rinsed with cold water.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 2s. 3d. Sufficient for 5 or 6
persons.
2149. — QUINCE BLANCMANGE.
Ingredients. — a lb. of ripe quinces, 6 ozs. of castor sugar, f- of an oz. of
gelatine, £ of a pint of double cream, 1 pint of water.
Method. — Peel and core the quinces, simmer them in the water until
quite soft and broken, but not reduced to a pulp, then strain through
a jelly bag. Replace the liquor in the pan, add the sugar and the
gelatine previously soaked in a little cold water, and stir and boil
gently until the gelatine is dissolved. When cool, add the cream,
mix well, and turn into a mould rinsed with cold water.
Time. — About 1} hours. Average Cost, is. 6d. Sufficient for 4 or 5
persons.
2150. — RAISIN CHEESE.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of raisins, -} a lb. of castor sugar, a good pinch
each of cinnamon and cloves, angelica, candied citron peel.
Method. — Stone the raisins, add the sugar, cinnamon, and cloves,
and stew for i-|- hours in a jar placed in a saucepan of boiling water.
When cool, pour into a glass dish, garnish with strips of angelica and
citron, and serve cold.
Time. — hours. Average Cost, 8d. or qd. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
2151. — RICE AND CREAM. (Fr. — Riz a la creme.)
Ingredients. — 3 ozs. of Carolina rice, 1 pint of milk, \ a pint of cream,
1 tablespoonful of castor sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls of sherry, glace cherries.
Method. — Simmer the rice in the milk until tender, drain well on a sieve
and let it cool. Whip the cream stiffly, stir in the rice, add the sherry
and sugar, and serve in custard-glasses garnished with strips of cherries.
Time. — About i£ hours. Average Cost, is. 3d. to is. 6d. Sufficient
for 5 or 6 persons.
1038 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
2152. — RICE BLANCMANGE. (See Ground Rice Blanc-
mange, No. 2124, and Whole Rice Mould,
No. 2173.)
2153. — RICE BORDER WITH PRUNES. (Fr. — Bor-
dure de Riz aux Prunes.)
Ingredients. — 2 dozen French plums or prunes, 2 ozs. of Carolina rice,
2 ozs. of castor sugar, 1 oz. of pistachios, blanched and chopped, 1 pint
of milk, \ a gill of cream, 3 yolks of eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of apricot
marmalade or jam, the finely-grated rind of £ a lemon, 1 glass of Maras-
chino, glace cherries, angelica, sugar.
Method. — Simmer the rice in the milk until tender, add the lemon-
rind and sugar, let it remain uncovered for a short time for some of the
moisture to evaporate, then stir in the yolks of eggs and Maraschino.
Press into a well-buttered border mould, place the mould in the oven
in a tin, surround with boiling water, and bake for about \ an hour.
Dilute the apricot marmalade with a little water, sweeten to taste,
strain over the moulded rice, when cold, and sprinkle on the prepared
pistachios. Meanwhile stew the plums or prunes (see p. 1040), remove
the stones, press the parts together again, and insert a short strip of
angelica in each one to represent a stalk. Pile them in the centre of the
rice, and garnish with halved cherries and the whipped cream, using a
forcing-bag and rose pipe.
Time. — About i-|- hours. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. to 2s. 9d. Sufficient
for 6 or 7 persons.
2154. — SAGO SNOW. (Fr. — Sagou a la Neige.)
Ingredients. — 2 ozs. of sago, 2 pints of milk, 2 ozs. of castor sugar, 4
eggs, vanilla.
Method. — Boil up the milk, sprinkle in the sago, simmer and
stir until the mixture becomes clear. Add the sugar, let the mixture
cool slightly, then put in the beaten yolks of eggs. Stir by the side of
the fire until they thicken, cool a little, add the vanilla, and pour into
a deep silver or glass dish. Beat the whites to a stiff froth, add 1
dessertspoonful of castor sugar, drop rough pieces into the rest of the
milk, previously brought to boiling point, and poach for about 1
minute. Drain, and serve on the top of the sago custard.
Time. — From 35 to 40 minutes, to prepare. Average Cost, 9d. Suffi-
cient for 4 or 5 persons.
2155. — SNOW EGGS. (Fr. — Oeufs a, la Neige.)
Ingredients. — 5 eggs, 1 pint of milk, sugar, essence of vanilla.
Method. — Boil up the milk, sweeten to taste, and flavour with vanilla.
RECIPES FOR COLD SWEETS
1039
Whisk the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, put 1 tablespoonful at a tirtle
into the boiling milk, and poach until firm. Turn 2 or 5 times during
the process, and as each portion is cooked, drain and place in a glass
dish. Beat the yolks of the eggs, add them to the milk, and strain into
the jug. Stand the jug in a saucepan of boiling water, and stir the
contents until they thicken. Let the custara cool, stirring occasionally
meanwhile, then pour over ana round the snow eggs, and serve.
Time. —About 1^ hours. Average Cost, pd. to is. Sufficient for 6 or
7 persons.
2156. — SNOW PUDDING. (, See Lemon Sponge, No. 2130.)
The preparation should be moulded until set, and served with boiled
custard.
2157. — SPONGE CAKE MOULD.
Ingredients. — Stale sponge cakes, macaroons or ratafias, i pint of milk,
1 oz. of castor sugar, or to taste, \ of an oz. of leaf gelatine', i table-
spoonful of brandy, 3 eggs, glace cherries, vanilla essence.
Method. — Rinse a plain mould with cold water, decorate the bottom
with halves or rings of cherries, and about J fill it with broken sponge
cakes and macaroons. Dissolve the gelatine in the milk, when nearly
boiling add the eggs, and stir by the side of the fire until they thicken.
Add the sugar and vanilla essence to taste, and pour into the mould.
Turn out when cold, and serve with a good custard.
Time. — About \ an hour. Average Cost, is. 9d. Sufficient for 1
medium sized mould.
2158. — ST. CLOUD PUDDING. (Fr.— Pouding Froid
a la St. Cloud.)
Ingredients. — 1 pint of strong clear coflee (coffee essence may be used),
4 eggs, 3 ozs- °f almonds, 2 ozs. of castor sugar, stale sponge cake
(or any plain cake), 3 tablespoonfuls of apricot marmalade or jam,
a gill of cream, 2 tablespoonfuls of Maraschino, glace cherries, angelica.
Method. — Blanch, shred and bake the almonds pale brown. Coat a
plain charlotte mould thickly with clarified butter, and sprinkle liberally
with the prepared almonds when cold. Three-quarters fill the mould
with pieces of cake, interspersing the remainder of the almonds. Dissolve
the sugar in the coffee, pour over the well-beaten eggs, stirring mean-
while, and add the Maraschino and cream. Strain into the mould,
cover with a buttered paper, and steam very gently for about 2 hours.
Turn out and set aside till cold. Dilute the apricot marmalade
/
1040 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
with a little water, sweeten to taste, and when cool strain over the
pudding. Decorate with rings of cherries and strips of angelica.
Time. — About 2J hours. Average Cost, 2s. 3d. to 2s. 6d. Sufficient
for 6 or 7 persons.
2159. — STEWED FIGS. (Fr.— Compote de Figues.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of figs, 6 ozs. of sugar, the juice of 1 lemon, 1 pint of
water.
Method. —Place the figs, sugar and lemon-juice in a jar, boil the water,
and add it to the contents of the jar. Cover closely, stand the jar in a
saucepan of boiling water or in a slow oven, and stew gently from 1^
to if hours. Serve with a good custard sauce.
Time. — From if to if hours. Average Cost, 7d. Sufficient for 3 or
4 persons.
2160. — STEWED FRUIT. (Fr.— Compote de Fruit.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of fruit, 4 ozs. of sugar, f of a pint of water.
Method. — Apples and pears intended for stewing should be peeled,
quartered and cored. Gooseberries should have the tops and tails cut
off; rhubarb is usually sliced, and if at all old the stringy outer skin is
stripped off. Other fruit, such as cherries and plums, should have
the stalks removed, but the stones may be taken out or not, as preferred.
Bring the water and sugar to the boil, add the fruit, and stew very gently
until tender. Or, place the fruit and sugar in a jar, stand the jar in a
saucepan of boiling water, and cook until tender.
2161. — STEWED PRUNES. (Fr.— Compote de Prunes.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of prunes, 6 ozs. of sugar, 1 pint of water, 1 tea-
spoonful of lemon-juice.
Method. — Rinse the prunes well in cold water, then place them in a
basin, add the pint of cold water, and let them soak for at least 6 hours.
When ready, put them into a jar, add the sugar and lemon-juice, place
the jar in a saucepan of boiling water or in a slow oven, and stew gently
from \\ to 2 hours.
Time. — To cook, from ij to 2 hours. Average Cost, 6d. to 8d. Suffi-
cient for 3 or 4 persons.
2162. — ST. HONORE TRIFLE.
Ingredients. — A round Genoese cake 1 inch in thickness, \ of a pint of
sherry, \ a pint of stiffly-whipped sweetened cream, 2 or 3 whites of
eggs stiffly-whisked and sweetened, crushed macaroons or ratafias,
glace cherries, angelica.
RECIPES FOR COLD SWEETS
1041
Method. — Remove the Genoese cake from the tin as soon as it -is
baked, and force the white of egg round the edge to form a raised
border. Replace in a cool oven until the meringue hardens, but do
not allow it to acquire much colour. Place a good layer of macaroons
or ratafias on the top of the cake, pour the wine over, taking care not
to touch the border, and let it soak for at least 1 hour. Just before
serving, pile the cream on the top, and garnish with cherries and strips
of angelica
Time. — About 2 hours, after the cake is made. Average Cost, 2s. to
2S. 3d., exclusive of the cake. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
2163. — SUGAR FOR COMPOTES. (See To Clarify
Sugar for Syrup, No. 2277.)
2164. — SYLLABUB. No. 1.
Ingredients. — \ a pint of sherry or Madeira wine, 2 tablespoonfuls of
brandy, of a pint of cream, 1 white of egg, 1 lemon, castor sugar.
Method. — Remove the rind of the lemon as thinly as possible, put it
into the sherry, and let it soak for 12 hours. When ready, strain and
add the cream, brandy, lemon-juice, and sugar to taste. Beat or whisk
the mixture briskly, and as the froth forms skim it off, and place it at
once in glasses or a hair sieve with a basin under it .0 receive the drip-
pings. Let it be made several hours before required.
Time. — Altogether, 18 hours. Average Cost, 2s. 3d. Sufficient for 10
or 12 persons.
2165. — SYLLABUB. No. 2.
Ingredients. — 10 macaroons, 1 pint of cream, 4 ozs. of castor sugar,
the juice of 1 lemon, the finely-grated rind of -l a lemon, 1 wineglassful
of sherry or Madeira, a pinch of ground cinnamon, essence of ratafia.
Method. — Mix the sugar, lemon-juice and rind, cinnamon and wine
together in a large basin, add a few drops of essence of ratafia, stir until
the sugar is dissolved, then add the cream and whip to a froth.
Arrange the macaroons compactly on the bottom of a deep dish, and
as the froth is formed on the syllabub skim it off and place it on the
biscuits. When the whole of the preparation has been reduced to a
froth, stand the dish in a cold place, and let it remain for at least 12
hours before serving.
Time. —Altogether, about 13 hours. Average Cost, 3s. to 3s. 3d.
Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.
2166. — SYLLABUB. No. 3.
Ingredients. — } a pint of cream, \ of a pint of sherry, half that
1042
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
quantity of brandy, the juice of \ a lemon, a little grated nutmeg, 3
ozs. of pounded sugar, whipped cream.
Method. — Mix all the ingredients, put the syllabub into glasses, and
over the top of them heap a little whipped-cream. Solid syllabub is
made by whisking or milling the mixture to a stiff froth, and putting it
in the glasses without the whipped-cream at the top.
Time. — 20 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. qd. to 3s. 3d. Sufficient to
fill 8 or 9 glasses.
2167. — TIPSY CAKE.
Ingredients. — 8 sponge cakes, raspberry jam, 1 pint of custard No.
2104, £ of a pint of sherry.
Method. — Split the cakes, spread on a good layer of jam, replace the
halves, arrange them compactly in a dish, giving them as far as possible
the appearance of one large cake. Pour over the sherry, and let them
soak for 1 hour. Make the custard as directed, and, when cool, pour
it over. The cake may be garnished with cherries, angelica, chopped
pistachois, or baked almonds.
Time. — About i|- hours. Average Cost, is. 9d. Sufficient for 6 or 7
persons.
2168. — TIPSY PUDDING.
Ingredients. — 3 ozs. of flour, 3 ozs. of castor sugar, 3 eggs, 3 or 4
tablespoonfuls of rum, desiccated cocoanut.
Method. — Beat the eggs and sugar together until thick and smooth,
and stir in the flour as lightly as possible. Coat 6 or 7 well-buttered
dariol moulds thickly with castor sugar, fill them three-quarters full
with the mixture, and bake in a moderately hot oven. When cooked,
baste them with rum sweetened to taste, sprinkle lightly with cocoanut,
and serve cold.
Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, 9d. Sufficient for 6 or 7
persons.
2169.— TRIFLE, No. 1.
Ingredients.— 4 sponge cakes, 6 macaroons, 12 ratafias, 2 ozs. of
almonds (blanched and shredded), the grated rind of \ a lemcn, \ a
pint of custard No. 2104, \ a pint of cream, 2 whites of eggs, castor
sugar, raspberry or strawberry jam, \ of a pint of sherry, glace cherries,
angelica.
Method. — Make the custard as directed, and let it become quite cold.
Cut the sponge cakes into rather thick slices, spread half of them with
jam, cover with the remainder, and arrange them alternately with the
macaroons and ratafias in a glass dish. Pour over the wine, adding a
RECIPES FOR COLD SWEETS
1043
little more if necessary to soak them thoroughly, sprinkle on the lemon-
rind, add the almonds, and cover with the custard. Mix the cream
and whites of eggs together, whip stiffly, sweeten to taste with castor
sugar, pile lightly on the top of the custard, and garnish with halved
cherries and strips of angelica.
Time. — About 1} hours. Average Cost, 3s. to 3s. 6d. Sufficient for
7 or 8 persons.
2170. — TRIFLE, No. 2.
Ingredients. — 18 Savoy biscuits, 12 ratafias, raspberry jam, \ a pint
of custard No. 2104, 1 wine glass of sherry, 2 tablespoonfuls of milk, 1
oz. of blanched and shredded almonds, 2 whites of eggs, castor sugar.
Method. — Make the custard as directed, and let it cool. Spread jam
on half the biscuits, cover with the others, and arrange them with the
ratafias compactly on a glass dish. Mix the sherry and milk together,
pour it over the biscuits, stick in the shreds of almonds, and let the
preparation soak for 1 hour. Then pour over the custard, pile the
stiffly- whisked sweetened whites of eggs on the top, and serve.
Time. — About 2\ hours. Average Cost, is. 9d. to 2s. Sufficient
for 6 or 7 persons.
2171. — VANILLA BLANC MANGE.
Ingredients. — of a pint of milk, \ a pint of cream, 4 ozs. of loaf sugar,
1 oz. of leaf gelatine, 4 yolks of eggs, 2 inches of vanilla-pod.
Method. — Bring the milk, sugar and vanilla-pod to boiling point,
and simmer gently until sufficiently flavoured. Beat the yolks of
eggs slightly, strain on to them the boiling milk, stirring vigorously
meanwhile, return to the stewpan, and stir by the side of the lire until
the mixture thickens. Dissolve the gelatine in a j of a pint of water,
add it to the custai'd, and, when cool, stir in the stiffly-whipped cream.
Stand on ice or in a cold place until set.
Time. —About 1 hour. Average Cost, is. 6d. Sufficient for 6 or 7
persons.
2172.— WHIPPED-CREAM.
Ingredients. — \ a pint of double cream, 1 \ ozs. of castor sugar, or to
taste, 1 dessertspoonful of sherry, 1 dessertspoonful of brandy (the
wine and brandy may be omitted), the juice and finely-grated rind of
\ a lemon.
Method. — Put the sherry, brandy, sugar, lemon-juice and rind into
a basin, and stir until the sugar is dissolved. Add the cream, and whip,
slowly at first and afterwards more quickly, until firm. Serve as
I044
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
required. Raisin or other sweet wine may replace the sherry and
brandy, or an equal quantity of raspberry or strawberry syrup.
Time. — About 15 minutes, altogether. Average Cost, is. 8d. Suffi-
cient for 6 or 7 persons.
2173.— WHOLE RICE MOULD.
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of Carolina rice, 1 quart of milk, 3 ozs. of castor
sugar, the thinly-cut rind of \ a lemon.
Method. — Simmer the rice, sugar, lemon-rind and milk together until
the rice is perfectly tender and the milk almost absorbed. Remove the
lemon-rind, pour the preparation into a wet mould, and, when firm,
turn out and serve with jam, stewed fruit or custard sauce.
Time. — About i-|- hours. Average Cost, 6d. Sufficient for 1 large
mould.
Ices
2174. — ALMOND CREAM ICE. (Fr.— Glace a la Creme
d’Amandes.)
Ingredients. — 3 ozs. of sweet almonds, 3 bitter almonds, \ a pint of
custard No. 1 or 2, \ of a pint of whipped-cream, J pint of milk,
a fewr drops of almond essence, 1 teaspoonful of orange-flower water.
Method. — Blanch, chop, and pound the almonds smoothly, adding
the orange-flower water to prevent them oiling. Warm the milk, pour
it over the almonds, let it remain covered while the custard is made and
gets cold, then mix the whole together. Partially freeze, then add the
cream, almond-essence, a little sugar if necessary, and complete the
freezing.
Time. — From 3 to 4 hours. Average Cost, is. 3d. Sufficient for 5 or 6
persons.
2175. — APRICOT ICED EGGS. (Fr.— CEufs aux
abricots glaces.)
Ingredients. — 12 apricots (preserved ones will serve), 6 ozs. of castor
sugar, 1 pint of cream, the juice of 1 lemon, 2 or 3 drops of carmine.
Method. — Pass the fruit through a hair sieve, stir in the sugar and
lemon-juice, and add the cream stiffly whipped. Mix in a little car-
mine, freeze, press lightly into egg moulds, and pack in ice until re-
quired.
Time. — To make and freeze, about 2 hours. Average Cost, 2s. 9d. to
3s. 3d. Allow 1 to each person.
RECIPES FOR ICES
1045
2176. — BANANA CREAM ICE. (Fr.— Glace a la Creme
de Bananes.)
Ingredients. — i-J- pints of custard No. x, J of a pint of cream, 6 bananas,
1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1 tablespoonful of Cura?oa or brandy.
Method. — Pass the bananas through a fine hair sieve. Prepare the
custard as directed, and whip the cream stiffly. When the custard
is sufficiently cool, add the banana pulp, lemon-juice and Cura5oa,
stir the cream in lightly, and freeze ( see p. 988).
Time. — From 2 to 2b hours. Average Cost, 2s. 3d. to 2s. 6d.
Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.
2177. — BISCUIT ICE CREAM. (Fr.— Biscuits Glaces.)
Ingredients. — Ice cream. Savoy buscuit.
Method. — Line a plain ice mould with Savoy biscuits, put in the frozen
cream ice, cover, and pack in ice until required.
Time. — Altogether, 5 or 6 hours. Average Cost, Variable. Allow a
pint mould for 4 or 5 persons.
2178. — BROWN BREAD CREAM ICE. (Glace au Pain
Bis.)
Ingredients. — 1 pint of custard No. 1 or 2, 3 ozs. of crumbled brown
bread, a gill of cream, 1 tablespoonful of brandy.
Method. — Pass the brown bread through a sieve, and bake in a cool
oven until crisp and well browned. Partially freeze the custard, add
the brown crumbs, cream and brandy, complete the freezing, and mould
as required.
Time. — 2 hours. Average Cost, is. 6d. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
2179. — BURNT ALMOND CREAM. (Fr.— Glace aux
Amandes Brulees.)
Ingredients. — 1|- pints of custard No. 1, f of a gill of cream, 1 table-
spoonful of Kirsch, 2 ozs. of loaf sugar, 2 ozs. of almonds.
Method. — Blanch, shred, and bake the almonds until brown, prepare
the custard according to the recipe. Put the sugar and a few drops
of water into a small stewpan, and boil until it acquires a deep golden
brown colour. Now add the cream, boil up and stir into the custard.
Let the mixture cool, then add the prepared almonds and Kirsch, and
freeze as directed on p. 988).
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 2s. 3d. Sufficient for 7 or 8
persons.
1046 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
2180. — CARAMEL CREAM ICE. (Fr.— Glace a la
Creme de Caramel.)
Ingredients. — 1-| pints of custard No. 1, f of a gill of cream, 1 table-
spoonful of Benedictine, 2 ozs. of loaf sugar.
Method. — Prepare the custard according to the recipe. Put the
sugar into a small stewpan with a few drops of water, and boil until
it acquires a deep golden-brown colour. Now add the cream, and when
boiling stir into the custard. Let the mixture cool, add the Benedictine,
and freeze as directed ( see p. 988).
Time. — From 35 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. Sufficient for 7 or
8 persons.
2181. — CUSTARD (for Cream Ices) No. 1.
Ingredients. — 1 pint of milk, 4 a pint of cream, 6 ozs. of castor sugar,
6 yolks of eggs.
Method. — Bring the milk nearly to boiling point, and pour it over the
beaten yolks of eggs, stirring meanwhile. Return to the stewpan, and
stir by the side of the fire until the mixture thickens, but do not let
it boil, or the eggs may curdle. Stir in the sugar, strain, and when cool
add the cream.
Time. — From 25 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. Sufficient for
if- pints.
2182. — CUSTARD (for Cream Ices) No. 2.
Ingredients. — if pints of milk, 1 gill of cream, 8 ozs. of castor sugar, 1
heaped dessertspoonful of cornflour, 4 eggs.
Method. — Mix the corntiour smoothly with a little milk, boil the
remainder with the sugar, add the blended cornflour and milk, and
simmer for 3 or 4 minutes. Cool slightly, then add the beaten yolks
of eggs, and stir by the side of the fire until the mixture thickens.
Strain into a basin; when cool add the cream, the whites of eggs stiffly-
whisked, and nse as required.
Time. — From 25 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, is. 2d. Sufficient for
if pints.
2183. — CUSTARD (for Cream Ices) No. 3.
Ingredients. — 1\ pints of milk, 6 ozs. of castor sugar, \ an oz. of corn-
flour, saffron-yellow colouring.
Method. — Mix the cornflour smoothly with a little milk, boil the
remainder with the sugar, add the blended cornflour and milk, and
simmer gently for 3 or 4 minutes. Strain, add sufficient colouring
matter to give the mixture the appearance of rich custard, and use as
required.
RECIPES FOR ICES
1047
Time. — From 20 to 25 minutes, uverage Gait. 4+d. Sufficient for
1 -J- pints.
2184. — CHERRY CREAM ICE. (Fr. — Glace a la
creme de Cerises.)
Ingredients. — 1 pint of custard No. 2, £- of a lb. of ripe cherries, 2 ozs.
of castor sugar, the juice of 1 lemon, 1 tablespoonful of Ivirschwasser
or other liqueur, carmine.
Method. — Stone the fruit, crack the stones, take out the kernels,
place both cherries and kernels in a basin, add the sugar, lemon-juice,
Ivirschwasser, cover, and let the preparation stand for \ an hour. Then
pour all into a copper stewpan, add \ a pint of water, cook until the
cherries are tender, and rub through a fine sieve. Add the prepared
custard and a few drops of carmine, and freeze as directed {see p. 988).
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, is. 3d. to 2s. Sufficient for
7 or 8 persons.
2185. — CHOCOLATE BOMBE, WITH FRUIT.
(Fr. — Bombe au Chocolat a la Printaniere.)
Prepare a bomb of chocolate cream ice, and fill the interior with
cream sweetened, slightly stiffened with gelatine, and mixed with halved
or quartered strawberries.
2186. — CHOCOLATE CREAM ICE. (Fr.— Glace au
Chocolat.)
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of chocolate, 1 pint of custard No. 1 or 2, 1 gill of
milk, \ a gill of cream, sugar.
Method. — Prepare the custard as directed. Dissolve the chocolate
in the milk, sweeten to taste, and strain it into the custard. Let the
mixture cool, then add the stiffly-whipped cream, and freeze {see p. 988).
Time. — About 40 minutes. Average Cost, is. 5d. to 2s. Sufficient for
7 or 8 persons.
2187. — CIDER ICE. {Fr. — Glace au Cidre.)
Ingredients. — 1 pint of cider, 1 pint of syrup No. 2231, -J- a pint of un-
sweetened apple pulp, the juice of 3 lemons.
Method. — Mix all the ingredients together, boil up, pass through a
fine sieve, and, when cold, freeze as directed {see No. 988). The ice
may be coloured pale green or pink by adding a few drops of either
spinach extract or carmine.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, is. 3d. Sufficient for 6 or
7 persons.
1048 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
2188. — CLARIFIED SUGAR FOR WATER ICE. (See
Syrup for Water Ices, No. 2231.)
2189. — COCOA ICED. (Fr. — Cacao Frappe.) (See
Coffee Iced, No. 2236.)
2190. — COFFEE CREAM ICE. ( Fr . — Glace Creme au
Cafe.)
Ingredients. — i-J- ozs. of freshly roasted and ground coffee, 3 ozs. of castor
sugar, 1 pint of custard No. i or 2, -J- a gill of cream, 1 glass of Kirsch.
Method. — Pour boiling water over the coffee, infuse for about \ an
hour, then strain, add the sugar, and let it cool. Make the custard
according to the recipe, stir in the coffee; when cool, add the Kirsch
and whipped cream, and freeze ( see p. 988).
Time. — About 30 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. to 2s. Sufficient for
7 or 8 persons.
2191. — COFFEE CREAM ICE. ( Fr . — Creme au Cafe
Glace.)
Ingredients. — 1 pint of very strong clear coffee, ij pints of cream,
4 ozs. of sugar.
Method. — Sweeten the coffee with the sugar, partially freeze it, then
stir in the slightly-whipped cream, and continue the freezing.
Time. — About 30 minutes with cold coffee. Average Cost, 2s.
Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.
2:192. — COFFEE SAUCE FOR CREAM ICE.
Ingredients. — 6 tablespoonfuls of freshly-ground coffee, f- of a pint of
boiling water, 3 ozs. of castor sugar, 5 yolks of eggs, 2 sheets of gelatine.
Method. — Pour the boiling water over the coffee, let it stand until
clear, then strain it into a saucepan. Beat the yolks of eggs and sugar
together, and dissolve the gelatine in a very little cold water. Add
both to the coffee, stir and cook slowly until the preparation has the
consistency of thick cream, then strain, and serve separately when quite
cold.
Time. — About \ an hour. Average Cost, is. qd. to is. 6d. Sufficient
for 1 pint of sauce.
2193. — CREAM ICE (en Surprise). Fr. — Glace pan-
achee en Surprise.)
Moulded cream ice, masked with meringue, and quickly baked.
ICES,
J
1 1
I. Ice Puddin;
Dessert Ices,
RECIPES FOR ICES
1049
2194. — CREAM ICE FROM FRESH FRUIT.
(Fr. — Creme de Fruits Glaces).
Ingredients. — 1 pint of milk, \ a pint of cream, \ a pint of fruit pulp,
sugar to taste (10 to 12 ozs. ), the juice of 1 lemon, the white of 1 egg.
Method. — Put the milk and sugar into a stewpan, bring to the boil
and cool. Pass the fruit through a fine hair sieve, add the lemon-juice
and milk to the pulp thus formed, and stir in lightly the stiffly-whipped
cream. When the mixture is partially frozen, add the well-whisked
white ot egg, and continue the freezing.
Time. — From 30 to 35 minutes. Average Cost, is. 8d. to 2s. Sufficient
for 7 or 8 persons.
Note. — 111 a recipe of this description the exact amount of sugar cannot be
stated. It varies with the fruit ; but it must be added with discretion, for
if the mixture be made too sweet, freezing is extremely difficult, while, on the
other hand, if not sufficiently sweetened the ice becomes too solid.
2195. — CREAM ICES PREPARED FROM PRESERVED
FRUIT OR JAM.
Ingredients. — 1 pint of milk, 1 gill of cream, 3 yolks of eggs, sugar to
taste, 6 ozs. of preserved fruit pulp or jam, such as strawberry, rasp-
berry, greengage, apricot, peach, pineapple, etc.
Method. — Beat the yolks of eggs, add the milk when nearly boiling,
replace in the stewpan, and stir by the side of the fire until they thicken,
but the mixture must not boil. Strain, add the sieved jam or fruit
pulp, sweeten to taste and brighten the colour by adding a few drops
of carmine, saffron, or spinach greening, according to the fruit used.
Let the preparation cool, then add the stiffly-whipped cream, and
freeze as directed.
Time. — About an hour. Average Cost, is. to is. 3d. Sufficient for
7 or 8 persons.
2196. — FIG CREAM ICE. (Fv. — Glace a la Creme de
Figues.)
Ingredients. — 1 breakfastcupful of finely-chopped dried figs, 4 ozs. of
castor sugar, 1 dessertspoonful of best isinglass, 2 tablespooniuls of
cornflour, vanilla essence, 1 quart of milk, 1 pint of cream, 3 eggs.
Method. — Mix the cornflour smoothly with a little milk, boil the re-
mainder, add the cornflour, and stir until boiling. Beat the eggs and
sugar together, stir them into the milk and cornflour, add the isinglass
previously softened in a little cold water, and stir it until dissolved.
When cold, add the cream and a little vanilla essence, freeze slightly,
then add the rigs and complete the freezing.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. to 3s. Sufficient for 12
or 14 persons.
1050
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
2197. — FROZEN PUDDING. ( See Iced Queen’s Pudding,
No. 2241, and Nesselrode Pudding, No. 2247.)
2198. — FRUIT CREAM ICE. (Fr. — Fruits Glaces a
la Creme.)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of fresh fruit pulp (strawberry, raspberry,
currant, or any other fruit preferred), io to 12 ozs. of sugar, | a pint of
cream, 1 pint of milk, the juice of 1 lemon, the stiffly-whipped white
of 1 egg.
Method. — Boil the milk, add the sugar, and put aside until nearly
cold. Obtain the pulp by passing the fruit through a fine hair sieve,
add the lemon-juice, milk, and the cream stiffly whipped. Partially
freeze the preparation before adding the white of egg. The amount of
sugar required depends upon the fruit used.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, about 2s. Sufficient for 10 or
12 persons.
2199. — GINGER ICE CREAM. ( Fr . — Glace a la Creme
de Gingembre.)
Ingredients. — pints of custard No. 1, 2 or 3, 3 ozs. of preserved
ginger, 1 teaspoonful of ginger syrup.
Method. — Make the- custard according to the recipe selected. Cut
the ginger into small dice, stir it with the syrup into the custard and
freeze as directed on p. 988.
Time. — From 30 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, is. to is. 3d. Sufficient
for 7 or 8 persons.
2200. — ICED FRUIT. (Fr. — Fruits Glaces.)
Fruit of nearly every description may be iced by first dipping it in
beaten white of egg, and afterwards in crushed loaf sugar, the process
being repeated until a sufficiently thick coating is obtained. Pine-
apples should be sliced ; pears, peaches and plums should be halved
after removing the skins ; cherries, strawberries and similar fruit are
iced with the stems on ; and from oranges and lemons every particle
of pith is removed before dividing the former into sections and the
latter into slices ( see Oranges, Iced).
2201. — ICE PUDDING. (See Iced Queen’s Pudding
No. 2241, and Nesselrode Pudding. No. 2247.)
2202. — ICED SOUFFLE. (See Iced Strawberry or
Raspberry Souffle.)
RECIPES FOR ICES 1051
2203.— JAPANESE PLOMBIERE. (Fr.— Glace Plom--
biere a la Japonaise.)
Ingredients. — 8 yolks of eggs, 1 oz. of sugar, 4 ozs. of ground almonds,
\ a pint of cream, i f pints of milk, 1 glass of Kirsch, apricot marmalade,
4 ozs. of pounded macaroons, salt.
Method. — Boil up the milk, pour it over the yolks of eggs, add a little
salt and the sugar, and replace in the saucepan. Cook gently for a few
minutes, then tammy or pass through a fine hair sieve, and add 2 ozs.
of marmalade, the almonds and Kirsch. When cold, add the maca-
roons and the cream stiffly whipped, and freeze. Mould with a little
apricot marmalade in the centre, and serve garnished with ratafias
or ice wafers.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 3s. Sufficient for 8 or 10
persons.
2204. — LEMON CREAM ICE. (Fr— -Glace a la Creme
de Citron.)
Ingredients. — 1 pint of custard No. 1, 2 or 3, 4 ozs. of loaf sugar, 2
lemons.
Method. — Prepare the custard according to directions given. Rub
the lumps of sugar on the rinds of the lemons until all the outer yellow
part is removed, and dissolve it in 1 tablespoonful of warm water.
Add the juice of 1 lemon, and when cool stir into the custard. If neces-
sary, add a few drops of liquid saffron colouring, and freeze as directed
on p. 988.
Time. -About 40 minutes. Average Cost, pd. to is. 6d. Sufficient
for 7 or 8 persons.
2205. — MAPLE PARFAIT. {Fr . — Parfait au Sirop.)
Ingredients. — 1} gills of thick syrup, 1 quart of cream, 4 ozs. of maple
sugar, 5 yolks of eggs, 1 inch of vanilla pod.
Method. — Boil the syrup and vanilla pod in a copper pan until it
registers 240° on a saccharometer, then remove the vanilla, and pour
the syrup over the yolks of eggs, previously well-beaten. Whisk the
preparation in an egg-bowl over boiling water until it has the consistency
of thick cream, and afterwards whisk until cold. Add the stiffly-
whipped cream and maple sugar, stir for some minutes over the ice,
then turn into a parfait or bomb mould lined with paper. Secure and
seal the lid, and imbed in ice from 2\ to 3 hours.
Time. — From 1 to 2 hours. Average Cost, 4s. to 4s 6d. Sufficient
for 9 or 10 persons.
1052 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
2206. — ORANGE ICE CREAM. (Fr.— Glace a la Creme
d’Orange.)
Ingredients. — 1 \ pints of custard No. 1, 2 or 3, 3 oranges, 2 ozs. of
loaf sugar, saffron-yellow colouring, carmine.
Method. — Prepare the custard according to directions given. Remove
the outer yellow part of 2 oranges by rubbing them with the lumps of
sugar, which afterwards must be dissolved in 1 tablespoonful of warm
water. Mix with the strained juice of the oranges; when cool stir into
the custard, and add the carmine and saffron-yellow, until the desired
colour is obtained. Freeze as directed on p. 988.
Time. — From 40 to 45 minutes. Average Cost, is. to 2s. 6d. Sufficient
for 7 or 8 persons.
2207. — PINEAPPLE CREAM ICE. (Fr.~ Glace a la
Creme d’Ananas.)
Ingredients. — 1 pint of custard No. 1 or 2, \ a lb. of finely-chopped
preserved pineapple, \ a gill of pineapple syrup, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-
juice.
Method. — Pass the pineapple through a fine sieve, and mix with it the
syrup and lemon-juice. Make the custard as directed, and when cool
stir in the pineapple preparation, and freeze as directed on p. 988.
Time. — From 40 to 50 minutes. Average Cost, is. 3d. to 2s. 3d.,
according to the custard selected. Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.
2208. — PINEAPPLE PLOMBIERE. (Fr.— Glace Plom-
biere d’Ananas.)
Ingredients. — 1 quart of cream, 6 yolks of eggs, 4 ozs. of sugar, 3
tablespoonfuls of pineapple dice, 3 tablespoonfuls of pineapple syrup,
vanilla essence.
Method. — Boil up \\ pints of the cream, pour it over the yolks of
eggs, previously well-beaten, add the sugar and pineapple syrup, and
replace the mixture in the saucepan. Stir and cook gently by the side
of the fire for a few minutes, then strain, and, when cold, freeze. When
the mixture is half frozen, add the pineapple dice, a little vanilla
essence, and the cream stiffly whipped.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 4s. to 4s. 9d. Sufficient for
10 or 12 persons.
2209. — PISTACHIO CREAM ICE. (Fr. — Glace creme
aux Pistaches.)
Ingredients. — 1} pints of custard No. 1, 2 or 3, 4 ozs. of pistachio nuts
blanched and pounded, 1 tablespoonful of noyeau, orange-flower water,
spinach-greening.
RECIPES FOR ICES
1053
Method. — While pounding the pistachio nuts add gradually a little
orange-flower water. As soon as the custard is cold, add the noyeau
and a little spinach extract, and when partially frozen, stir in the
pistachio nuts.
Time. -About 1 hour. Average Cost, 2s. gd. to 3s. Sufficient for 7
or 8 persons.
2210. — RASPBERRY ICE CREAM. (Fr.— Glace a la
Creme de Framboises.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of raspberries, 1 pint of custard No. 1, 2 or 3,
6 ozs. of castor sugar, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, carmine.
Method. — Make the custard as directed. Pass the raspberries through
a fine hair sieve, add the sugar and lemon-juice, and mix with the
prepared custard, adding at the same time as much carmine as is needed
to produce a bright red colour. Freeze as directed on p. 988.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, iod. to is., exclusive of the
custard. Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.
2211. — STRAWBERRY ICE CREAM. (Fr. — Glace a
la Creme de Fraises.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of strawberries, \ a pint of cream, \ of a pint of
milk, 3 yolks of eggs, 10 ozs. of castor sugar, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-
juice, carmine.
Method. — Bring the milk and cream to near boiling point, add the
beaten yolks of eggs, stir by the side of the fire until they thicken,
then put in the sugar, and when dissolved, strain and let the preparation
cool. Pass the strawberries through a fine sieve, mix with the custard,
add the lemon-juice and carmine gradually until a deep pink colour is
obtained. Freeze as directed.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 2s. to 2s. 3d. Sufficient for 7
or 8 persons.
2212. — STRAWBERRY ICE CREAM. (Another
method.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of strawberries, 1 quart of milk, ^ a gill of cream,
10 ozs. of castor sugar, \ an oz. of cornflour, 4 eggs, the juice of 2 lemons,
carmine.
Method. — Mix the cornflour with a little milk, boil the remainder
with the sugar, add the blended cornflour and milk, simmer for 2 or 3
minutes, then cool slightly. Beat the yolks of the eggs, add them
to the contents of the stewpan, and stir by the side of the fire until the
mixture thickens. Strain, add the strawberries, previously reduced
to a puree by being passed through a fine sieve, the lemon-juice, a few
1054
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
drops of carmine, and when cold, the cream and well-whisked whites of
eggs. Freeze as directed.
Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, 2s. Sufficient for 7 or 8
persons.
2213. — TEA CREAM ICE. (Fr.— The Glace a la
Creme.)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of strong tea, 1 pint of custard No. 2, 1 table-
spoonful of thick cream, 2 ozs. of castor sugar.
Method. — Strain the tea, add the sugar, and let it cool. Prepare the
custard according to the recipe, add the tea; when cool, stir in the
cream, and freeze ( see p. 988).
Time. — 30 to 35 minutes. Average Cost, is. 2d. Sulficient for 7 or 8
persons.
2214. — TEA ICE CREAM, AMERICAN. (Fr.— The
Glace a l’Americaine.)
Ingredients. — 2 tablcspoonfuls of dry tea, 1 pint of milk, \ a pint of
cream, 6 ozs. of castor sugar, 4 whole eggs, 1 inch of vanilla pod.
Method. — Bring the milk and vanilla pod to boiling point, infuse for
a few minutes, then pour it over the tea, allow it to remain closely
covered for 5 minutes, and strain. Beat the eggs well, add the castor
sugar, and continue the beating until perfectly smooth, then stir in the
prepared tea. Put this mixture into a stewpan, and stir by the side
of the fire until it thickens. Strain into a basin; when cool, add the
stiffly-whipped cream and freeze ( see p. 988).
Time. — From 35 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. Sufficient for
7 or 8 persons.
2215. — TUTTI-FRUTTI, ICED (MIXED FRUIT ICE).
(Fr. — Tutti-Frutti Glaces.^1
Ingredients. — 1 oz. of pistachios, blanched and shredded, 1 oz. of
glace cherries, 1 oz. of glace apricots, \ an oz. of mixed candied peel,
all cut into small dice, \ a pint of cream stiffly whipped, \ a gill of
Maraschino, 2 whites of eggs stiffly whipped, vanilla essence, 8 ozs.
of sugar, 5 yolks of eggs, 1 pint of milk.
Method. — Boil the milk, add the yolks of eggs and sugar, stir and cook
very gently for a few minutes, then strain and, when cold, add vanilla
essence to taste. Partially freeze, add the whites of eggs, cream, nuts
and fruit, and, when the freezing process is nearly completed, put in the
Maraschino.
Time. — From 3 to 4 hours. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. to 2s. pd. Sufficient
for 8 or 9 persons.
RECIPES FOR ICES
1055
2216. — VANILLA ICE CREAM. (Fr. — Glace a la
Creme de Vanille.)
Ingredients. — 1 pint of cream, a pint of milk, 6 ozs. of castor sugar,
6 yolks of eggs, \ a pod of vanilla.
Method. —Whisk the yolks of eggs and sugar well together, boil the
cream and milk with the vanilla for a few minutes, stir into the eggs,
etc., and replace the whole in the stewpan. Stir by the side of the fire
until the mixture thickens, but it must on no account be allowed to
boil. Tammy or pass through a fine strainer, if necessary, add a few
drops of vanilla essence, and when cool, freeze as directed on p. 988.
Time. — About an hour. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for 7 or
8 persons.
2217. — VANILLA ICE CREAM. (Fr.— Glace a la
Creme de Vanille.)
Ingredients. — i-J- pints of milk, 1 gill of cream, 8 ozs. of castor sugar,
1 heaped dessertspoonful of cornflour, 4 eggs, the juice of a lemon,
1 teaspoonful of vanilla essence.
Method. — Mix the cornflour smoothly with a little milk, boil the
remainder with sugar, add the blended cornflour, simmer for 2 minutes,
and cool slightly. Beat the yolks of the eggs, add them to the contents
of the stewpan, and stir by the side of the fire until the mixture thickens.
Strain, and when cool, add the lemon-juice, vanilla essence, cream, and
lastly the well-whisked whites of eggs. Freeze as directed.
Time. — From 30 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, is. 3d. Sufficient for 7
or 8 persons.
2218. — VANILLA ICE CREAM. (Economical.)
Ingredients. — ij pints of milk, 6 ozs. of castor sugar, -} an oz. of corn-
flour, -J- a teaspoonful of vanilla essence, saffron or liquid yellow colour-
ing.
Method. — Mix the cornflour smoothly with a little milk, boil the
remainder with the sugar, add the blended cornflour and milk, and
simmer gently for 2 minutes. Strain; when cool, add the vanilla
essence and sufficient colouring matter to give the mixture the appear-
ance of rich custard. Freeze as directed.
Time. — About j an hour. Average Cost, 6d. Sufficient for 6 or 7
persons.
2219. — VANILLA PLOMBIERE. (Fr. — Glace Plom-
biere a la Vanille.)
Ingredients. — 1^ pints of vanilla ice cream mixture No. 2216,^ a pint
of stiffly -whipped cream, 2 tablespoonfuls of coarsely-chopped almonds.
1056 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Partially freeze the vanilla ice cream, add the whipped-
cream and almonds, and complete the freezing.
Time. — From 3 to 4 hours. Average Cost, about 2s. 6d. Sufficient
for 10 or 12 persons.
2220. — WALNUT CREAM ICE. (Sec Pistachio Cream
Ice, No. 2209.)
Omit the spinach greening, and, if preferred, substitute vanilla
essence for the noyeau.
Water Ices
2221. — APPLE WATER ICE. (Fr. — Glace a l’eau de
Pommes.)
Ingredients. — 1 pint of apple pulp, 1 pint of syrup No. 2232, 2 table-
spoonfuls of lemon-juice.
Method. — Stew the apples in a jar, pass them through a hair sieve,
and stir the pulp into the hot syrup. When cold, add the lemon-juice,
and freeze. A few drops of carmine or cochineal improve the colour.
Time. — From 2\ to 3 hours. Average Cost, 9d. Sufficient for 10 or 12
persons.
2222. — CHERRY WATER ICE. (Fr.— Glace a l’eau de
Cerises.)
Ingredients. — 1 \ lbs. of good cooking cherries, 1+ pints of syrup, 1
tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1 tablespoonful of Kirsch, carmine or
cochineal.
Method. — Stone the cherries, and from about a quarter of the stones
remove the kernels and pound them finely. Pour the syrup when boil-
ing over the cherries and kernels, let it stand closely covered until
cold, then add the Kirsch, lemon-juice, and a few drops of carmine.
Freeze as directed on p. 988.
Time. — Altogether, about 2 hours. Average Cost, is. gd. Sufficient
for 8 or 9 persons.
2223. — GINGER WATER ICE. (Fr.— Glace de Gin-
gembre.)
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of preserved ginger, a little of the syrup in which
it is preserved, 1 pint of syrup No. 2231, the stiffly-whipped white of
RECIPES FOR ICES
1057
1 egg, the strained juice of 2 lemons and 1 orange, the rind of 1 orange,*
3 or 4 lumps of sugar.
Method. — Pound the ginger finely, adding gradually a little of its
syrup, and press the whole through a fine sieve. Rub the sugar on
the orange-rind, add the sugar to the ginger, together with the syrup,
lemon and orange juices, and 3 tablespoonfuls of cold water. Boil
up, strain, and, when cold, freeze as directed ( see p. 988), adding the
white of egg when the mixture is about half frozen.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, about is. Sufficient for 6 or 7
persons.
2224. — GRAPE WATER ICE. (Fr.— Glace a l’eau de
Grappes.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of Sweetwater grapes, the thin rind of 2 lemons,
the juice of 4 lemons, i-J- pints of syrup, 1 wineglassful of sherry or
Marsala, 1 tablespoonful of orange-flower water.
Method. — Crush the grapes on a hair sieve, and press the pulp through
with a wooden spoon, add the syrup boiling, lemon-rind and juice,
let it remain until cold, then strain, add the wine, and orange-flower
water, and freeze.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 2s. to 2s. 3d. Sufficient for
10 or 12 persons.
2225. — LEMON WATER ICE. (Fr. — Glace au Citron.)
Ingredients. — i|- pints of syrup No. 2232, 6 lemons, 2 oranges.
Method. — Remove the peel from the lemons and 1 orange as thinly
as possible, and place it in a basin. Make the syrup as directed,
pour it boiling hot over the rinds, cover, and let it remain thus until
cool, then add the juice of the lemons and orange. Strain or tammv,
and freeze as directed ( see p. 988).
Time. — From i;j- to i-i- hours. Average Cost, is. 4d. Sufficient for 7
or 8 persons.
2226. — MELON WATER ICE. (Fr. — Glace au Melon.)
Ingredients. — 1 medium-sized ripe melon, 4 ozs. of sugar, the juice of
2 oranges, the juice of 2 lemons, 1 wineglassful of Maraschino, 1 quart
of water.
Method. —Peel and slice the melon, simmer for 10 minutes with the
water and sugar, and rub through a fine hair sieve. When cool, add
the strained orange and lemon-juice, the Maraschino, and, if necessary,
a little more sugar. Freeze as directed on p. 988.
Time. — From 50 to 60 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. Sufficient for
8 persons.
M M
1058
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
2227. — PEACH SHERBET. {Fr. — Sorbet aux Peches.)
Ingredients. — 6 peaches, the juice of 4 lemons, sugar to taste, 3 quarts
of water.
Method. — Skin and stone the fruit, remove the kernels from the stones,
and chop them finely. Cut the fruit into small pieces, add the water,
kernels, lemon-juice and sugar to taste. Let it remain on ice for 5 or
6 hours, and strain before using.
Time. — From 5-f- to 6} hours. Average Cost, is. qd. Sufficient tor 3
quarts.
2228. — PINEAPPLE WATER ICE. {Fr.— Glace a l’eau
d’ Ananas.)
Ingredients. — 1 preserved pineapple, 1 pint of syrup No. 2231 or
2232, the juice of 1 lemon.
Method. — Make the syrup as directed. Pound the pineapple or chop
it finely, and pass it through a hair sieve. Mix with it the syrup, add
the lemon-juice, let the mixture become sufficiently cold, and freeze
{see p. 988).
Time. — From 50 to 60 minutes. Average Cost, is. 3d. Sufficient for
5 or 6 persons.
2229. — RASPBERRY OR STRAWBERRY WATER ICE.
{Fr. — Glace a l’eau de Fraises ou Fram-
boises.)
Ingredients. — \\ lbs. of ripe strawberries or raspberries, i-J pints of
syrup No. 1, the juice of 2 lemons.
Method. — Prepare the syrup as directed. Rub the fruit through a
fine sieve, add the lemon-juice, and if necessary deepen the colour with
a few drops of carmine. Freeze as directed on p. 988.
Time. — About 40 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. Sufficient for 7 or 8
persons.
2230. — RED CURRANT WATER ICE. {Fr.- Glace a
l’eau de Groseilles.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of red currants, \ a lb. of raspberries, 1 quart of
syrup No. 1, the juice of 1 lemon.
Method. — Pick the fruit and rub it through a hair sieve. Prepare
the syrup according to the recipe, pour it over the fruit pulp, add the
strained lemon-juice, and when cold freeze {see p. 988).
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, is. 9d. Sufficient for 7 or 8
persons.
RECIPES FOR ICES
1059
2231. — SYRUP FOR WATER ICES, No. 1.
Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of loaf sugar, 1 pint of water.
Method. — Put the sugar and water into a copper sugar-boiler or stew-
pan ; when dissolved place over a clear fire, and boil until a syrup is
formed, taking care to remove the scum as it rises. If a saccharometer
is available for testing the heat of the syrup, it should be boiled until
it registers 220° F.
Average Cost, 6d. Sufficient for 1 pint.
2232. — SYRUP FOR WATER ICES, No. 2.
Ingredients. — 3 lbs. of loaf sugar, 1 good pinch of cream of tartar, 1
quart of water, the white and shell of 1 egg.
Method. — Place the sugar, cream of tartar, water, the shell and well-
whisked white of egg in a copper sugar boiler or stewpan, boil until
reduced to a syrup, then strain; when cool, use as required.
Average Cost, 8d. Sufficient for 1 quart.
2233. — TANGERINE WATER ICE. (Fr.— Glace aux
Tangerines.)
Ingredients. — 6 tangerines. 2 oranges, 2 lemons, 4 02s. of loaf sugar,
1 pint of syrup.
Method. -Rub the sugar on the rind of the tangerines to extract
some of the flavour. Place the sugar in a saucepan, add the thin rind
of 1 orange and 1 lemon, J a pint of cold water, and boil the mixture
tor 10 minutes. Skim if necessary, add the juice of the oranges and
lemons, and the syrup, boil up, then strain, and, when cold, freeze.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, is. 3d. Sufficient for 6 or 7
persons.
2234. — WATER ICE MADE FROM JAM. (Fr.— Glace
au Confiture.)
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of jam, 2 ozs. of icing sugar, 1 pint of water,
the juice of 1 lemon, liquid colouring.
Method. -Put all these ingredients together in a stewpan, bring to the
boil, skim well, and simmer gently for 10 minutes. Now tammy or
rub through a very fine hair sieve, add a few drops of colouring matter
to brighten the colour, and when cold freeze as directed.
Time. — About ■} an hour. Average Cost, 6d. or 9d. Sufficient for 1}
pints.
io6o
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Sorbets, Mousses and Ice
Puddings
2235. — CHAMPAGNE GRANITE. (Fr. — Granite au
Champagne.)
Ingredients. — 1 quart of lemon water ice No. 2225, i- a bottle of cham-
pagne, \ a lb. of fresh fruit, such as strawberries, apricots, peaches,
all cut into small dice, \ a pint of crushed ice.
Method. — Prepare and freeze the lemon water ice, and stir in the
champagne, prepared fruit and crushed ice. Serve in glasses or cups.
Time. — About i| hours. Average Cost, 5s. to 6s. 6d. Sufficient for
10 or 12 persons.
2236. — COFFEE ICED. (Fr. — Cafe Frappe a la Van-
ille.)
Ingredients. — 1 quart of strong, clear, hot coffee, \ a pint of milk,
\ a pint of cream, 6 ozs. of castor sugar, 1 inch of vanilla pod.
Method. — Place the milk, sugar and vanilla in a stewpan, bring nearly
to boiling point, then add the coffee, and let the mixture cool. Now
strain, stir in the cream, freeze until it has the consistency of thick
cream, and serve in this condition. Castor sugar should be handed
with the coffee.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, is. 4d. to is. 6d. Sufficient for
7 or 8 persons.
2237. — COFFEE PARFAIT. {Fr.— Parfait au Moka.)
Ingredients. — 1 tablespoonful of coffee extract, 6 yolks of eggs, i\ ozs.
of castor sugar, 1^- gills of syrup No. 2231 or 2232, f of a pint of cream.
Method. — Put the coffee extract, yolks of eggs, sugar and syrup into
a stewpan, place it in a tin containing boiling water, and whisk the
contents until they thicken. The mixture should be strongly flavoured
with coffee, therefore add more essence if necessary, and let the mixture
cool. Whip the cream stiffly, stir in lightly, pour the mixture into an
ice mould, cover closely ( see p. 988), and pack in ice for 2 or 3 hours.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, is. pd. Sufficient for 7 or 8
persons.
Note. — With slight variations a large number of parfaits may be based
on the above recipe. For Parfait au The, \ a gill of very strong tea is sub-
stituted for the coffee extract ; Parfait au Chocolat may be flavoured
with 3 or 4 ozs. of grated chocolate dissolved in a little milk ; Parfait aux
Abricot or Parfait aux Peches have pulped fruit added as a flavouring
ingredient. Maraschino and Kirsch also enter largely into the composition
of this particular class of sweets, the parfait, as a matter of course, taking
its name from the liqueur.
RECIPES FOR ICES
1061
2238. — CREAM SORBET. ( Fr . — Sorbet a la Creme.)
Ingredients. — } a pint of cream, \ a lb. of loaf sugar, 1 oz. of vanilla
sugar, the whites of 3 eggs, the juice of 2 lemons, J of a gill of Maras-
chino, i|- pints of boiling water.
Method. — Add the loaf sugar to i£ pints of boiling water, reduce a
little by boiling rapidly, skimming frequently meanwhile, and add the
lemon-juice. Strain, and thoroughly cool, then stir in the vanilla
sugar, stiffly-whipped cream, well-whisked whites of eggs, and Maras-
chino. Freeze to the required consistency, and serve.
Time. — About 1 \ hours. Average Cost, is. gd. to 2s. Sufficient for
7 or 8 persons.
2239. — GOOSEBERRY SORBET WITH MARASCHINO.
(. Fr . — Sorbet de Groseilles au Marasquin.)
Ingredients. — 1 pint of green gooseberries, a lb. of loaf sugar, \ a
pint of water, the juice of 2 lemons, \ a gill of Maraschino, glace cherries,
spinach colouring.
Method. — Pick the gooseberries, put them into a stewpan with the
water and sugar, cook until tender, and rub through a hair sieve. Add
the lemon-juice and spinach colouring until the desired shade of green
is obtained. When cold, stir in the Maraschino, freeze partially,
and serve in small glasses garnished with strips of glace cherries.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, is. to is. 6d. Sufficient for 6
or 7 persons.
2240. — GRAPE SORBET. (. Fr . — Sorbet de Raisin.)
Ingredients. — 1 pint of half-frozen lemon-water ice, 2 dozen large
ripe green grapes, 1 wineglassful of sherry or Marsala, 1 wine-
glassful of elderflower water.
Method. — Pass the grapes through a hair sieve, add them to the lemon-
water ice when half frozen, and mix in the wine and elderflower water.
Continue the freezing a few minutes longer, until the whole is in a
half-frozen condition. Serve in sorbet cups or glasses, and if liked,
garnish with grapes, previously peeled, and flavoured with a little
Maraschino.
Time. — About 15 minutes after the water ice is ready. Average
Cost, is. gd. to 2s. 3d. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
2241. — ICED QUEEN’S PUDDING. (Fr.— Pouding
Glace a la Reine.)
Ingredients. — i-J- pints of custard No. 1 (p. 1046), 1 pint of cream,
2 ozs. of crystallized apricots, shredded or cut into dice, 2 ozs. of crys-
tallized glace cherries, shredded or cut into dice, 1 glass of Cura£oa
almonds.
1062
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method.— Prepare the custard as directed; when half-frozen add the
cream stiffly-whipped and the prepared fruit, and press into a fancy
ice mould. Cover, seal the edges with lard, wrap in paper, and pack
in ice and salt for about 2 hours. Blanch, coarsely chop and bake the
almonds brown, let them become perfectly cold, and sprinkle them
lightly on the pudding just before serving.
Time. — About 3 hours. Average Cost, 4s. 6d. to 5s. Sufficient for 7
or 8 persons.
2242. — LEMON GRANITE. ( Fr . — Granite au Citron.)
Ingredients. — 1 quart of half-frozen lemon water ice, \ a pint of finely-
crushed ice, 1 glass of Maraschino.
Method. — Add the crushed ice and Maraschino to the half-frozen
lemon water ice, mix thoroughly, and serve in small cups or glasses.
Time. — About i£ hours. Average Cost, is. 9d. Sufficient for 8 or 9
persons.
2243. — LEMON SORBET. ( Fr . — Sorbet au Citron.)
Ingredients. — 8 lemons, 2 oranges, 10 ozs. of loaf sugar, 2 ozs. of
castor sugar, 3 whites of eggs, {- of a pint of Marsala wine, 3 pints of
water.
Method. — Place the loaf sugar in a stewpan with the 3 pints of water;
let it dissolve, then boil and reduce a little, and skim well during the
process. Add the finely-grated rind of 2 lemons, the juice of the lemons
and oranges, bring to the boil, strain, and let the preparation cool.
Partially freeze, then add the well-whisked whites of eggs, sugar and
wine, and continue the freezing until the desired consistency is obtained.
Time. — About hours. Average Cost, is. 6d. Sufficient for 7 or 8
persons.
Note. — Orange sorbet (sorbet d’orange) may be made by using 8 oranges
and 2 lemons instead of 8 lemons and 2 oranges.
2244. — MARASCHINO MOUSSE. (Fr.— Mousse au
Marasquin.)
Ingredients. — } a gill of Maraschino, \ a gill of Kirschwasser, \ a pint
of cream, J of a pint of water, 4 ozs. of loaf sugar, 4 yolks of eggs.
Method. — Boil the 4 ozs. of sugar and \ of a pint of water to a syrup,
skimming meanwhile. Stir in the beaten yolks of eggs, add the Maras-
chino and Kirschwasser, and whisk the contents of the basin over a
saucepan of boiling water until they thicken. Let the mixture cool,
stirring frequently, and when ready to use add the stiffly-whipped
cream. Line a plain mould with white paper, pour in the preparation
and cover closely, first with paper, and then with the lid. Pack
in ice and salt for at least 2 hours.
RECIPES EOR ICES 1063
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 2s. 3d. to 2s. 6d. Sufficient for
6 or 7 persons.
2245. — MILK PUNCH. (Fr. — Punch au Lait.)
Ingredients. — 1 quart of milk, 4 ozs. of loaf sugar, 1 gill of cream,
2 tablespoonfuls of brandy, 2 tablespoonfuls of rum.
Method. — Boil the milk, dissolve the sugar in it, then strain, and when
cool partially freeze. Add the brandy, rum, and the cream whipped,
mix well, and freeze a little longer. Serve in a half-frozen condition
in small china sorbet cups, and, if liked, grate on a little nutmeg or
cinnamon over before serving.
Time. — From 1 to ig- hours. Average Cost, is. 3d. to is. 6d. Sufficient
for 7 or 8 persons.
2246. — NEAPOLITAN ICE. (Fr. -Glace Napolitaine.)
Ingredients. — of a pint of strawberry or raspberry pulp, 1- an oz. of
grated chocolate, 3 yolks of eggs, i-l- pints of milk, \ a pint of cream,
3 ozs. of castor sugar, \ a teaspoonful of vanilla essence, carmine or
cochineal.
Method. — Cream the yolks of eggs and 3 ozs. of castor sugar well
together. Add the rest of the sugar to the milk, and when boiling
pour on to the yolks of eggs and sugar, stirring vigorously meanwhile.
Replace in the stewpan, and stir by the side of the fire until the mixture
thickens, then strain. Dissolve the chocolate in 1 tablespoonful of
water, mix with it J of the custard, and let it cool. Mix the fruit pulp
with half the remaining custard, and if necessary add a few drops of
carmine. To the other third of the custard add the vanilla essence.
Whip the cream slightly, divide it into 3 equal portions, and add 1 to
each preparation. Freeze separately, then pack in layers in a Nea-
politan ice-box, or, failing this, a mould best suited to the purpose.
Cover closely, and pack in salt and ice for about 2 hours. Serve cut
across in slices. •
Time. — From 1 to i\ hours. Average Cost, about 2s. Sufficient for
7 or 8 persons.
2247. — NESSELRODE PUDDING. (Fr— Pouding
Glace a la Nesselrode.)
Ingredients. — 3 dozen chestnuts, \ a pint of milk, 1 pint of cream,
12 ozs. of loaf sugar, 2 ozs. of glace cherries cut into dice, 8 yolks of
eggs, vanilla essence, 1 glass of Maraschino.
Method. — Shell, parboil, and skin the chestnuts, simmer them in 1
gill of milk until tender, and rub them through a fine sieve. Bring the
remaining gill of milk nearly to boiling point, add the yolks of eggs,
cook by the side of the fire until they thicken, then stir them into the
1064
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
chestnut puree. Let this mixture become cold, add \ the cream,
freeze until nearly set, then stir in the Maraschino, cherries, and the
remainder of the cream stiffly-whipped. Freeze until set, stirring
frequently, then press into a fancy ice mould, cover, seal the edges
with lard, wrap in paper, and bury in ice and salt until required.
Time. — About 3^ hours. Average Cost, 3s. 6d. to 4s. Sufficient
for 9 or 10 persons.
2248. — NOYEAU SORBET. ( Fr . — Sorbet au Noyeau.)
Ingredients. — 1 quart of half-frozen lemon water ice No. 2225, 1 gill
of noyeau, the juice of 1 orange, whipped-cream, castor sugar.
Method. — Prepare and half-freeze the lemon water ice, then add the
noyeau and orange-juice, and continue the freezing until the proper
degree of hardness is obtained. Three-parts fill the sorbet glasses or
cups with the preparation, and cover roughly with sweetened stiffly-
whipped cream.
Time. — 15 minutes after the water ice is ready. Average Cost,
2s. 6d. to 2s. qd. Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.
2249. — PINEAPPLE MOUSSE. (Fr.— Mousse a l’An-
anas.)
Ingredients. — 10 ozs. of preserved pineapple, 2 ozs. of castor sugar,
f- of an oz. of gelatine, \ a gill of pineapple syrup, i-J- gills of cream,
\ of a gill of Maraschino, ij- gills of lemon or wine jelly No. 2020, glace
cherries.
Method. — Mask the jelly mould with a thin layer of jelly, and decorate
with the cherries. Pound and chop the pineapple finely, and rub it
through a hair sieve. Dissolve the sugar and gelatine in the pineapple
syrup, and let the mixture cool. Melt the remainder of the jelly; let
it cool, and whisk it over the ice to a stiff froth. Add this and the
stiffly-whipped cream to the pineapple puree, stir in the gelatine when
cool, add the Maraschino, and pour into the prepared mould. Let it
remain on ice for 2 hours.
Time. — About hours. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for 6 or 7
persons.
2250. — RASPBERRY OR STRAWBERRY SORBET.
(Fr. — Sorbet aux Fraises ou Framboises.)
Ingredients. — 1 quart of raspberry or strawberry water ice preparation.
No. 2229, \ a gill of Sauterne, 1 glass of Curaijoa.
Method. — Prepare and half-freeze the water ice, add the wine and
Curacoa, continue the freezing until the proper degree is obtained,
then serve.
DESSERT,
DESSERT SWEETS AND
SWEETMEATS
CHAPTER XXXIV
Dessert at the Present Day does not hold the same relationship to the
dinner that it held with the ancients — the Romans more especially.
On ivory tables they would spread hundreds of different kinds of raw,
cooked and preserved fruits, tarts and cakes, as substitutes for the more
substantial comestibles with which the guests were satiated. No part
of a dinner is governed more by individual tastes and circumstances
than the dessert; it may consist of one or more dishes of choice fruits;
or a varied display may be provided at a comparatively trifling cost,
when the dessert is composed principally of fruits in season and home-
made sweets. Pines, melons, grapes, peaches, nectarines, plums,
strawberries, cherries, apples, pears, oranges, figs, raisins, walnuts,
filberts, crystallized fruits, fancy ices, fancy cakes and biscuits, make
up the dessert, together with dainty sweets and bon-bons, with which
the present chapter deals.
Dessert Services. — The shape, material and pattern of dessert services
is so varied, and depends so much upon taste, that the word “ fashion ”
may hardly be used in reference to them, though it may be said that
the services now used are those in which the colours are pale and
delicate, and that the stands for fruit are of medium height or quite
low. White china now forms some of the prettiest dessert services,
and is well calculated to show off the beauty of the fruit, the effect
being particularly good when the stands are surrounded by trails of
flowers and foliage, or placed upon artistically arranged silk of some
delicate hue, contrasting or harmonizing with the flowers. If available,
bon-bons are usually served in small silver dishes constructed for the
purpose, otherwise they should be daintily arranged in small fancy
dishes lined with lace-edged dessert papers, or in tiny ornamental
paper cases.
Arrangement of Fruit. — No hard and fast rules can be laid down with
reference to this, except that such easily damaged fruits as straw-
berries should never be mixed with the more solid kinds. In nearly
1066
DESSERT SWEETMEATS
1067
all cases the beauty of the fruit may be enhanced by surrounding it with
foliage. Keen competitors in public favour are the tender green,
delicately trailing smilax, the beautiful feathery asparagus, and the
double-edged mallow; strawberry and vine leaves have a pleasing
effect ; while for winter desserts, the bay, cuba and laurel are some-
times used, holly also being in demand from Christmas Eve to the
middle of January.
Dessert Sweets and Sweetmeats. — Until recently the art of sweetmeat-
making was little understood, and still less practised, by private indi-
viduals. Even now there exists a mistaken idea that this artistic
branch of cookery presents many difficulties, and that elaborate utensils
and implements are essential. Certainly success is more assured when
the operations are aided by a saccharometer, marble slab, crystallizing
tray, etc., but they are not indispensable. By measuring accurately,
testing repeatedly, and by taking care to apply the right amount of
heat, an amateur should find no difficulty in preparing any of the sweet-
meats for which recipes are given on the following pages.
Except when otherwise stated, the lid should be kept on the stewpan
while the sugar is being brought to boiling point and during the early
stages of the following process, to prevent the sugar crystallizing on
the sides of the pan. When this occurs, the particles of sugar adhering
to the sides of the stewpan must be removed by means of a brush
dipped in water, for if allowed to remain, they may cause the sugar to
grain. Cream of tartar is added to the syrup to prevent the sugar
granulating, and carbonate of soda serves to whiten the toffee, etc.,
with which it is mixed.
When cooking over gas it is advisable to have a piece of sheet-iron
to place over the gas burners when a very slow continuous application
of heat is required, as in making caramels, etc. In boiling treacle and
brown sugar a large stewpan should be used, as these ingredients are
apt to boil over more quickly than white sugar.
Of the utensils and implements mentioned in the following pages,
those absolutely necessary are simple and inexpensive, and comprise
a hair sieve; a spatula, which is flat, wooden, with a broad rounded end
tapering off to a long narrow handle; a sweet fork and ring, both made
of twisted wire; and a candy hook. For this latter implement may be
substituted a strong iron larder hook, which should be fixed firmly on a
wall about 5 feet from the floor, according to the height of the worker.
When a sugar skimmer is not available for testing the sugar as it
approaches the “ small ball ” degree, a piece of wire twisted to form
small rings will be found a good substitute. A saccharometer, caramel
cutter, crystallizing tray, moulds, and a marble slab are indispensable
to those who wish to excel in the higher branches of the art of sweet-
making, but with few exceptions, all the following recipes require
nothing further for their preparation than the few simple appliances
enumerated above.
io68
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Dessert
2253. — ALMONDS AND RAISINS.
The dish in which these are served should be covered with a lace-
edged paper. The fruit should be separated into branches suitable for
serving, piled high in the centre of the dish, and the almonds blanched
and scattered over. To prepare the almonds, place in cold water,
bring to boil, skin and use as required.
2254. — ALMONDS SALTED AND DEVILLED.
These are much appreciated after the sweet course. They are pre-
pared by tossing blanched almonds in hot oil or butter, the process of
which is fully described in previous recipe.
2255. — APPLES AND PEARS.
These should be well rubbed with a clean soft cloth, and arranged
in a dish, piled high in the centre, with green leaves between the layers.
The inferior fruit should form the bottom layer, with the bright-
coloured ones on the top. Oranges may be arranged and garnished
in the same manner.
2256. - APRICOTS, PEACHES, PLUMS, NECTARINES,
OR GREEN FIGS.
The beautiful colouring of these fruits when good and ripe renders
anything more than a few green leaves for garnish necessary. These,
when possible, should be vine leaves, otherwise the more delicate kinds
of ferns are suitable. The fruit looks best when arranged a little from
the edge of the stand and piled pyramidically.
2257. — BANANAS.
Bananas look best when mixed with other fruits, and possibly the
best effect is produced by arranging them with a series of arches over
a single layer of apples or oranges, a fine apple or orange being piled
in the centre where the points of the bananas meet.
2258. — CURRANTS AND GOOSEBERRIES.
Red and white currants may be mixed with good effect; they should be
be piled in alternate layers to form a pyramid. Gooseberries should
also be piled high, but need no other arrangement.
DIRECTIONS FOR DESSERT 1069
2259. — DATES, FIGS, FRENCH PLUMS.
All these should be daintily arranged on small dishes covered with
lace-edged papers, which replace the leaves used with fresh fruit.
Dates. — Dates are imported into Britain, in a dried state, from Barbary and Egypt, and. when
in good condition, they are much esteemed. An inferior kind has lately become common, which is
dried hard, and has little or no flavour. Dates should be chosen large, soft, not much wrinkled,
of a reddish colour on the outside, with a white membrane between the fruit and the stone.
2260. — GRAPES.
These may be mixed or not, according to taste, but the blending of
the white and black fruit enhances the beauty of both. Vine leaves,
when procurable, should be put round the edge of the dish. Grape
scissors must always accompany the grapes, as without them serving is
very difficult, fine bunches being easily spoilt.
2261. — NUTS.
These are simply arranged piled high in the centre of the dish, with
or without leaves round the edge. Filberts or other nuts of this de-
scription should always be served with the outei skin or husk on them,
and walnuts should be well wiped with a damp cloth, and afterwards
with a dry one, to remove the unpleasant sticky feeling the shells fre-
quently have. Chestnuts, when boiled or roasted, should be served
on a folded serviette.
Hazel Nut and Filbert. --The common hazel is the wild, and the filbert the cultivated, variety
of the same tree. The hazel is found wild, not only in forests and hedges, in dingles and ravines, but
occurs in extensive tracts in the more mountainous parts of the country. It was for-
merly one of the most abundant of the trees which are indigenous to this island. It is seldom culti-
vated as a fruit tree, though perhaps its nuts are superior in flavour to the others. The Spanish
nuts imported are a superior kind, but they are somewhat oily and rather indigestible. Filberts,
both the Ted and the white, and the cob-nut, are supposed to be merely varieties of the common
hazel, which have been produced partly by the superiority of soil and climate, and partly by culture.
They were originally brought out of Greece to Italy, whence they have found their way to Holland,
and from that country to England. It is supposed that, within a few miles of Maidstone, in Kent,
there are more filberts grown than in all England besides ; and it is from that district that the London
market is supplied. The filbert is longer than the common nut, though of the same thickness, and
has a larger kernel. The cob-nut is a still larger variety, and is rounder. Filberts are more esteemed
for dessert than common nuts, and are generally eaten with salt. They are very free from oil, and
disagree with few persons.
2262.— PINE OR MELON.
Vine leaves should first be placed upon the dish and the fruit stood
upon them. If a pine does not stand upright, a slice may be cut off
the bottom to level it. A melon should have the stalk showing at the
top.
Note. — The melon is frequently served as an hors d’oeuvre, eaten with
salt and pepper. Prepared this way, it is excellent as a summer luncheon
dish. See Melon Cartaloup.
1070
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
2263.— STRAWBERRIES AND CHERRIES.
These should be arranged in rows in a pyramidal form, with the stalks
inwards, so that when the whole is completed, nothing but the red part
of the fruit is visible. When strawberries are served with cream, the
stalks should be removed.
Dessert Sweets and Sweetmeats
2264— BOILING SUGAR.
Although sugar may be boiled, and the degree approximately gauged
by applying certain simple tests, the process is greatly simplified by the
use of a saccharometer.
The different degrees to which sugar is boiled are classed as follows: —
I.
Small Thread
. 2 1 5 0 F.
VI.
Large Blow or Feather
233° F.
II.
Large Thread
2170 F.
VII.
Small Ball
2370 F.
III.
Small Pearl
220° F.
VIII.
Large Ball ....
2470 F.
IV.
Large Pearl
222° F.
IX.
Small Crack.
290° F.
V.
Small Blow
230° F. X. Large Crack
XI. Caramel, 350° Fahrenheit.
312° F.
2265. — THE SMALL THREAD.
Ingredients. — 2 lbs of loaf sugar, 1 pint of water.
Method. — Dissolve the sugar in the water, bring to boiling point, and
remove the scum. Boil for a few minutes, then dip the tip of the fore-
finger into the syrup and apply it to the thumb. If, on immediately
separating the finger and thumb, the syrup is drawn out into a fine
thread which breaks at a short distance, the sugar is boiled to the
small thread (2150 F).
2266. — THE LARGE THREAD.
Boil the syrup a little longer, and apply the same test; if the thread
can be drawn longer without breaking, the syrup is boiled to the large
thread (2170 F).
2267. — THE SMALL PEARL.
Continue the boiling for a few moments and proceed as before.
When the thumb and forefinger may be separated to a little distance
without breaking the thread, the sugar is boiled to the small pearl
(220° F).
RECIPES FOR SWEETMEATS
1071
2268. — THE LARGE PEARL.
After a little further boiling dip the forefinger in again, stretch the
thumb and forefinger as far as possible, and if the thread remains
unbroken the sugar has been boiled to the large pearl (222° F.).
2269. — THE SMALL BLOW.
Boil a little longer, then take a skimmer, dip it into the syrup, drain
it well over the pan, and blow through the holes. If small bubbles
appear on the other side of the skimmer, the sugar is boiled to the small
blow (230° F.).
2270. — THE LARGE BLOW OR FEATHER.
After a moment’s further boiling repeat the test, and when the
bubbles appear in much larger quantities and fly off the skimmer when
shaken, like small feathers or down, the sugar is boiled to the large
blow (2330 F\
2271. — THE SMALL BALL.
Now dip the forefinger into a basin of cold water, then dip it into
the sugar, and again quickly into the water. When the sugar can be
rolled between the thumb and forefinger into a small ball it has reached
the stage known by that name (2370 F. ).
2272. — THE LARGE BALL.
Continue the boiling and proceed as before; as soon as the sugar can
be formed into a larger and harder ball, it- is boiled to the large ball
(247° F.)
2273. — THE SMALL CRACK.
Boil for a moment longer, then dip in the forefinger, and if the sugar
adhering to it breaks with a slight noise, and sticks to the teeth when
bitten, it is boiled to the small crack (290° F. ).
2274. — THE LARGE CRACK.
Boil a little longer, dip the forefinger into cold water, then into the
sugar, and again quickly into the water. If the sugar breaks short and
brittle, and does not stick to the teeth when bitten, it is boiled to the
large crack (3120 F.).
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1072
2275. — THE CARAMEL.
If the boiling is prolonged beyond this stage, the sugar soon begins to
acquire a little colour, which gradually deepens until brown, and finally
black, burnt sugar is obtained.
2276. — TO SPIN SUGAR.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of best loaf sugar, -§■ a pint of water, a saltspoonful
of cream of tartar.
Method. — Dissolve the sugar in the water in a copper sugar boiler
or stewpan, and boil to the “ large crack ” degree. Add the cream of
tartar, draw the pan aside, repeatedly test the consistency of the syrup
by means of a tablespoon, and use as soon as it runs in a fine thread
from the spoon to the pan. Now take in the left hand a large knife,
previously oiled, hold it in a horizontal position, and spin the sugar into
fine threads by moving the spoon containing it to and fro over the flat
blade of the knife.
To spin sugar successfully it must be done in a dry atmosphere, and
the worker must avoid standing in a draught.
2277. — TO CLARIFY SUGAR, FOR SYRUP.
Ingredients. — 6 lb. of loaf sugar, 1 quart of water, 2 whites of eggs.
Method. — Dissolve the sugar in the water in a large stewpan, but do
not let it become very hot. Beat the whites of eggs, pour the warm
syrup on to them, and return to the stewpan. When the syrup boils,
add \ a gill of cold water, repeat 3 times, thus using in all \ a pint.
Now draw the pan aside for about 10 minutes, then strain by means of a
jelly bag or fine muslin, and use as required.
2278. — ALMOND ROCK.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of loaf sugar, 1 of a lb. of almonds, J of a lb. of
glucose, \ a pint of water, essence of almonds.
Method. — Blanch and dry the almonds thoroughly. Dissolve the
sugar in the water, add the glucose, and boil to the “little crack”
degree. Remove the stewpan from the fire, add the almonds, a few
drops of essence of almonds, boil until it acquires a golden-brown
colour, and pour on to oiled or buttered tins.
2279. — ALMOND ROCK. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of brown moist sugar, 5 ozs. of almonds, 8 ozs. of
glucose, £ of a pint of water, essence of almonds.
Method. — Blanch the almonds, split them in halves lengthwise, and
place them cut side downwards on an oiled or buttered tin. Dissolve
FRUIT
Black Grapes.
6 — Peaches.
2. — Muscat Grapes. 3. — Tangerines. 4. — Bananas.
7. — Pears. 8. — Pineapple. 9 and ro. — Apples.
5. — Oranges.
RECIPES FOR SWEETMEATS
1073
the sugar in the water, add the glucose, flavour to taste, and boil to the
“ hard crack ” degree. Let the preparation cool slightly, then pour
very slowly and carefully over the almonds. Brown sugar should
always be boiled in a rather large stewpan, as it is apt to boil over.
2280. — ALMOND STICKS.
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of Jordan almonds, f- of a lb. of icing sugar,
\ of a lb. of vanilla sugar, the whites of 5 eggs, royal icing No. 1736,
vanilla essence.
Method. — Blanch and dry the almonds thoroughly in a cool oven,
then pound them finely in a mortar, adding by degrees the icing sugar
and vanilla sugar. When perfectly smooth add the whites of eggs, and
when well-mixed turn the whole on to a marble slab. Knead it well,
roll it out to about J-inch in thickness, and cut it into strips about 2
inches long and \ an inch wide. Place them on a greased and floured
baking-sheet, cover them with royal icing flavoured with vanilla, and
bake in a very slow oven for about \ an hour. These sticks may be
served as dessert or handed round with the ices instead of wafers.
2281. — ALMOND TOFFEE.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of loaf sugar, 5 ozs. of almonds, 4- a pint of water, a
pinch of cream of tartar, almond essence.
Method. — Blanch and skin the almonds, cut them across in halves,
and dry them in the oven without browning. Dissolve the sugar in the
water, add the cream of tartar, and boil until a deep amber-coloured
syrup is obtained. Remove the stewpan from the fire, add the almonds,
boil up again, and pour on to a buttered or oiled tin.
2282. — ALMOND TOFFEE. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of granulated sugar, \ a lb. of almonds, J- of a lb. of
butter.
Method. — Blanch the almonds, split them lengthwise, and dry thor-
oughly in a cool oven. Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the sugar,
and boil to the “ ball ” degree, then stir in the almonds and continue
boiling to the “ crack.” Pour into an oiled or buttered tin, and, when
cold and set, break up into pieces.
2283. — AMERICAN CANDY.
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of moist sugar, \ a pint of water, cream of tartar,
tartaric acid, 1 dessertspoonful of golden syrup, saffron-yellow, flavour-
ing essence.
Method. — Dissolve the sugar in the water, add a good 4 teaspoonful
of cream of tartar, and boil to the “ large crack ” degree. Pour on
1074
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
to an oiled slab, add a little saffron-yellow or other colouring ingredient,
and flavour to taste. Any flavouring substance may be used, but it
should agree with the colour of the candy; thus red should be flavoured
with raspberry essence, yellow with pineapple, etc. Add also a pinch
of tartaric acid and the golden syrup, work well in, fold up, then pull
over an oiled hook, and cut into squares.
2284.— BARLEY SUGAR.
Ingredients. — 1 pint of clarified syrup No. 2231, 1 teaspoonful of
lemon-juice, 5 drops of essence of lemon, saffron-yellow.
Method. — Boil the prepared syrup to the “ large crack,” add the
lemon-juice and lemon-essence, and reboil until it acquires a little
colour. Now add a few drops of saffron-yellow, and pour at once on
to an oiled slab. When cool, cut into drops about 6 inches long and
1 inch wide, and twist them. Keep in air-tight tins.
2285. — BARLEY SUGAR. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of loaf sugar, 1 pint of water, \ a teaspoonful of
lemon-juice, a pinch of cream of tartar, essence of lemon, saffron-
colouring.
Method. — Dissolve the sugar in the water, boil to the “ small ball ”
degree ( see No. 2271), and add the lemon-juice. Continue boiling to
the “ large crack,” add a few drops of saffron-yellow, flavour to taste,
and turn on to an oiled slab. When cool, cut into narrow strips, twist
them into a spiral form, and when perfectly cold store them in air-tight
tins or boxes.
2286.— BURNT ALMONDS.
Ingredients. — if lb. of granulated sugar, 1 lb. of almonds, cold water.
Method. — Blanch the almonds and dry them thoroughly in a cool
oven. Put 1 lb. of sugar and gills of water into a stewpan, bring
to the boil, then add the almonds, and boil gently by the side of the
fire. When the almonds make a slight crackling noise, remove the
pan further from the fire, stir until the sugar granulates, then turn
the whole on to a coarse sieve. Shake well, put the sugar that passes
through the sieve into a stewpan, add to it i£ gills of water and the
remaining £ of a lb. of sugar, and let it boil to the “ soft ball ” degree.
Now add the almonds, which should in the meantime have been kept
warm, stir until well coated, but at the first inclination they show of
sticking together, remove them from the fire, and place them on the
sieve as before. The second coating of sugar is frequently coloured
and flavoured according to individual taste.
RECIPES FOR SWEETMEATS
1075
2287. — BURNT ALMONDS. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of Dcmarara sugar, \ a lb. of almonds, 1 gill of
water.
Method. — Put the sugar and water into a stewpan and stir occasionally
until dissolved. As soon as it conies to the boil cease stirring, boil
2 or 3 minutes, and add the almonds. Now stir briskly until the sugar
browns slightly and granulates, and has completely coated the almonds,
then turn them on to a sieve, separate any that may have stuck to-
gether, and let them remain until cold.
2288. — BUTTER SCOTCH.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of loaf sugar, \ a lb. of butter, a pinch of cream of
tartar, a pint of milk.
Method. —Place the sugar and milk in a stewpan, and stir occasionally
by the side of the fire until the sugar is dissolved. Now add the cream
of tartar and the butter a small piece at a time, and boil the mixture
until a little, dropped into cold water, forms a moderately hard ball.
Pour on to an oiled or buttered tin, and as soon as it is sufficiently firm,
mark off into small oblongs or squares, and when cold, divide the
sections thus formed. Wrap each piece first in wax paper, then in
tinfoil.
2289. — BUTTER SCOTCH. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of moist sugar, a lb. of butter, \ a teacupful of cold
water, essence of almonds.
Method. — Put the water and sugar into a stewpan, let the mixture
stand by the side of the fire until dissolved, then add the butter and
boil until the mixture becomes quite thick. Stir occasionally until it
begins to thicken, and afterwards continuously, as this preparation
is liable to stick to the bottom of the pan. Pour on to an oiled or
buttered tin, and mark and divide as directed in the preceding recipe.
2290. — CANDY. (S ee American Candy, No. 2283,
American Molasses Candy, No. 2291, Cocoa-
nut Candy, No. 2312, Candy Twist, No. 2298,
Pineapple Snow Candy, No. 2340, Treacle
Candy, No. 2352, and Candy Kisses, White
Almond, No. 2294.)
2291. — CANDY, AMERICAN MOLASSES.
Ingredients. — 3 cups of Demarara sugar, 1 cup of molasses, 1 cup of
water, 1 oz. of butter, \ a teaspooniul of cream of tartar.
ioy6
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Dissolve the sugar in the water, add the butter and mo-
lasses, and when boiling stir in the cream of tartar. Continue the
cooking until the syrup reaches the “ crack ” degree, then turn on to
an oiled slab. When cool enough to handle, pull it over an oiled hook,
and when firm cut into squares.
2292. — CANDIED CHESTNUTS.
Ingredients. — Chestnuts, loaf sugar.
Method. — Remove the shells of the chestnuts, place them in a stew-
pan of boiling water, boil for about 10 minutes, then drain and skin
them. Replace in the stewpan, cover with boiling water, boil until
tender but not broken, and let them cool. Allow \ a pint of water
to each lb. of sugar, boil to the “ crack ” degree, then dip in the chest-
nuts one at a time, and place them on an oiled slab.
2293. — CANDY KISSES, BROWN ALMOND.
Ingredients.— 1 lb. of Demerara sugar, 4 ozs. of glucose, 2 ozs. of
almonds, 1 oz. of butter, \ of a pint of water, caramel essence.
Method. — Blanch and chop the almonds coarsely, then bake them in
the oven until golden-brown. Dissolve the sugar in the water, add the
butter and glucose, and boil to the “ large ball ” degree. Remove
the stewpan from the fire, stir in caramel essence to taste, press the
syrup against the sides of the pan by means of a spatula or wooden
spoon, to give the candy a grained appearance, and when it becomes
cloudy stir in the prepared almonds. When sufficiently firm, pile small
portions on an oiled slab, using a teaspoon for the purpose. Chopped
hazel nuts or cocoanut may be substituted for the almonds.
2294. — CANDY KISSES, WHITE ALMOND.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of loaf sugar. 4 ozs. of glucose, 2 ozs. of almonds,
1 oz. of butter, J of a pint of water, vanilla essence.
Method. — Blanch and chop the almonds and dry them thoroughly.
Prepare the syrup as directed in the preceding recipe, substituting
vanilla essence for the caramel flavouring.
2295.— CANDIED PEEL.
There are three kinds of candied peel, viz. citron, lemon, and orange,
the mode of preparation being in all cases practically the same. The
rinds of sound young fruit are cut lengthwise in halves, freed from
pulp, boiled in water until soft, and afterwards suspended in strong cold
syrup until they become semi-transparent. Finally, they are slowly
dried in a stove or in a current of hot air.
RECIPES FOR SWEETMEATS
io 77
2296. — CANDIED POPCORN.
Ingredients. — 1 quart of popped corn, ^ a lb. of castor sugar, 1 oz. of
butter, 3 tablespoonfuls of water.
Method. — To prepare the popped corn, put the Indian maize into a
wire sieve and shake it gently over a slow fire until it pops. Place the
sugar, butter and water in a stewpan, boil to the “ small ball ” degree,
add the prepared corn, and stir briskly until the corn is completely
coated. Remove the pan from the fire, and continue stirring until cool,
to prevent the corn sticking together.
2297. — CANDY, 0R THREAD SUGAR. ( See Boiling
Sugar, No. 2264.)
2298. — CANDY TWIST.
Ingredients. — iC lb. of Demcrara sugar, l a pint of water, caramel
colouring, almond essence.
Method. — Dissolve the sugar in the water, boil to the “ crack
degree, then colour and flavour to taste. Pour the syrup on to an oiled
slab, and as the edges cool fold them over. When the whole is cool
enough to handle pull it over the candy-hook, cut it into 6-inch lengths,
and twist them into a spiral form. If preferred, white granulated
sugar may be substituted, and the candy flavoured with vanilla, or
it may be coloured red and flavoured with raspberry.
2299. — CARAMELS, CHOCOLATE.
Ingredients. — 3 ozs. of finely-grated vanilla chocolate, 1 lb. of best loaf
sugar, \ a pint of cream, \ a pint of milk.
Method. — Dissolve the sugar in the milk, add the cream and
bring slowly to boiling point. Dissolve the chocolate in the
smallest possible quantity of hot water, stir it into the syrup, and boil
very gently until a little, dropped into cold water, at once hardens and
snaps easify. Pour it on to an oiled slab into a square formed by bars,
or, failing these, into an oiled tin. When cold, cut into squares with
a caramel cutter, or a buttered knife, and wrap each piece in wax
paper.
2300. — CARAMELS, CHOCOLATE. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — -J- a lb. of loaf sugar, 2 ozs. of grated chocolate, 2 ozs. of
glucose, 1 oz. of butter, j- of a gill of cream, acetic acid.
Method. — Dissolve the sugar in the water, add the glucose, and boil
to 280°. Stir in the cream, butter and chocolate, replace on the fire,
and reboil to the same temperature. Remove from the fire, stir in
2 drops of acetic acid, and pour into a well-oiled tin. When cold,
mark with a caramel cutter, and cut into squares.
1078 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
2301. — CARAMELS, CHOCOLATE, AMERICAN.
Ingredients.— 1 teaspoonful of golden syrup, 1 teacupful of finely-
grated chocolate, 1 teacupful of brown sugar, 1 teacupful of milk,
1 oz. of butter, 1 dessertspoonful of glycerine, \ a teaspoonful of vanilla
essence.
Method. — Place the syrup, butter, sugar and milk in a stewpan, bring
to boiling point, and add the glycerine. Boil rapidly for about 10
minutes, then stir in the chocolate, replace the stewpan on the fire,
and continue the boiling until, when a little is dropped into cold water,
a hard ball is immediately formed. Turn into well-buttered or oiled
tins, allow the preparation to remain until cold, then mark with a
caramel cutter, and cut into squares.
2302. — CARAMELS, CREAM.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of sugar, \ of a lb. of glucose, 1 oz. of butter, i-|- gills
of water, 1 gill of cream, caramel essence.
Method. — Dissolve the sugar in the water, add the glucose, and boil
to 265°. Then add the butter and cream, and stir until the mixture
again registers 265°. Remove from the fire, flavour to taste, and pour
on to a well-oiled tin. When sufficiently firm mark with a caramel
cutter, and when cold cut into squares, and wrap them in wax paper.
2303. — CARAMELS, RASPBERRY.
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of granulated sugar, 1 oz. of butter, \ a pint of
cream, \ a pint of water, 3 tablespoonfuls of glucose, raspberry essence,
cherry-red colouring or carmine.
Method. — Put the sugar with the water into a stewpan; when dis-
solved stir in the glucose, and boil to the “ ball ” degree. Add the
cream and the butter in small pieces, stir and boil until the syrup
reaches the “ crack ” degree, then transfer the stewpan at once to a
bowl of cold water, to arrest further cooking. Colour and flavour to
taste, pour between bars on an oiled slab or into an oiled tin, and when
sufficiently cool, cut into small squares by means of a caramel cutter
or a slightly buttered knife, and wrap each caramel in wax paper.
2304. CARAMELS STRAWBERRY.
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of best lump sugar, 2 ozs. of honey, of an oz. of
butter, ^ of a pint of cream, \ of a pint of water, strawberry essence,
cherry-red colouring or carmine.
Method. — Place the sugar in a copper sugar boiler or stewpan, add
the water, and when dissolved stir in the honey, cream and butter.
Boil to the “ crack,” then stir in the flavouring essence and colouring
ingredient, and pour on to an oiled slab. When set, cut into small
RECIPES FOR SWEETMEATS 1079
squares, by means of a caramel cutter or buttered knife, and wrap'
each caramel in wax paper.
2305. -CARAMELS, WRAPPED.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of loaf sugar, 1 oz. of butter, 4 ozs. of glucose,
of a pint of water, \ a gill of cream, acetic acid, vanilla essence.
Method. — Dissolve the sugar in the water, add the glucose, and boil
to 280°. Stir in the cream and butter, re-heat to the same temperature,
then remove the stewpan from the fire, and add 2 drops of acetic acid
and vanilla essence to taste. Turn into an oiled tin; when sufficiently
firm mark with a caramel cutter, and when cold cut into squares.
Wrap them in wax paper.
2306. — CHOCOLATE ALMONDS.
Ingredients. — Almonds blanched and dried, chocolate, vanilla essence.
Method. — Dissolve the chocolate in the smallest possible quantity of
hot water, and flavour it to taste with vanilla essence. Dip each
almond in separately, and place them on an oiled slab or plates to set.
2307. — CHOCOLATE PRALINES.
Ingredients. — J- a lb. of icing sugar, of a lb. of almonds or Barcelona
kernels, chocolate, chocolate coating.
Method. — Blanch and bake the almonds until brown, or, when using
Barcelona kernels, remove the shells, bake the nuts until the insides are
brown, and take away the skins. Whichever are used, they must be
coarsely-chopped and finely-pounded in a mortar. Place the sugar
in a copper sugar boiler or stewpan, without water, cook over the
fire until lightly browned, stir in the almonds, and pour the whole on
to an oiled slab. When cold pound to a powder, mix with it sufficient
chocolate dissolved in warm water to form a paste, and turn it into a
tin. When cold cut into small squares, and coat with dissolved choco-
late.
2308. — CHOCOLATE STICKS.
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of almonds, blanched and chopped, 10 ozs. of
castor sugar, 2 ozs. of finely-grated chocolate, the whites of 2 small
eggs, royal icing.
Method. — Pass the sugar through a fine sieve, and pound finely any
coarse particles there may be. Dry the almonds thoroughly in a cool
oven, pound them to a paste, adding the sugar gradually, then add the
chocolate and whites of eggs. When well-mixed, turn on to a board or
slab, knead well, roll out to about of an inch in thickness, and cut
into strips about 2 inches long and % an inch wide. Place them on a
buttered and floured baking sheet, cover them with royal icing, and
bake in a very slow oven for about half an hour.
io8o
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
2309. — CLOVE DROPS.
Ingredients. — Essence of cloves, a few drops of acetic acid, 1 lb. of loaf
sugar, \ a pint of water.
Method. — Boil the sugar and water to the ball degree, add a few drops
of acetic acid, and clove essence to taste. Grain the syrup by pressing
it against the sides of the pan with the back of the spoon, let it cool
slightly, then turn it on to an oiled sheet. Mark it in small squares
with the back of a knife, and separate them when cold.
2310. — COCOANUT BARS.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of freshly grated or desiccated cocoanut, 3 lbs. of
loaf sugar, of a lb. of glucose, i|- pints of water, vanilla essence,
raspberry essence, cherry-red colouring or carmine.
Method. — Cut grease-proof paper to fit the sides and bottom of a
shallow box, or tin with straight sides, and arrange it carefully. Dis-
solve the sugar in the water, add the glucose, and boil to the “ ball ”
degree. Pour half the syrup into another stewpan, and keep it warm.
Flavour the remainder to taste with the raspberry essence, and add
colouring drop by drop until a pale pink colour is obtained. Grain
this pink syrup by working it against the sides of the pan; when cloudy,
stir in half the cocoanut and pour the mixture into the prepaved box
or tin. Flavour the other portion with vanilla essence, grain it in the
same manner as the pink syrup, and when cloudy add the remainder
of the cocoanut and pour it on the top of the pink ice. When quite
cold and set, turn out of the box, and cut into slices.
2311. — COCOANUT BARS. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 3 lbs. of best loaf sugar, \ a lb. of freshly-grated or desic-
cated cocoanut, \ a pint of water, vanilla essence, carmine or cochineal.
Method. — Line a shallow tin with grease-proof paper. Boil the sugar
and water to the “ small ball ” degree, remove the pan from the fire,
add the cocoanut, and flavour to taste. Let it cool a little, then pour
\ into the prepared tin, and stand the vessel containing the remainder
in hot water, to prevent it setting. As soon as the portion in the tin
is set, add a few drops of carmine or cochineal to the preparation in the
stewpan, and pour it over the ice in the tin. When cold turn out and
cut into bars.
2312. — COCOANUT CANDY.
Ingredients. — 1-| lb. of Demarara sugar, f- of a pint of water, 1 medium-
sized cocoanut.
Method. — Remove the shell and rind from the cocoanut, and slice
it thinly. Dissolve the sugar in the water, boil to the “ large ball ”
DESSERT
i. Spanish Nuts. 2. Pulled Figs. 3. Almonds.
40
m m
RECIPES FOR SWEETMEATS
1081
degree, then remove the pan from the fire, and grain the syrup by
rubbing it with the spatula against the sides of the stewpan. As soon
as the mixture begins to grow cloudy add the sliced cocoanut, stir until
quite thick, then pour on to an oiled tin. When sufficiently firm mark
into squares or oblongs, and when perfectly cold and firm divide into
sections. White candy may be made by substituting white sugar for
the Demarara.
2313. — COCOANUT MERINGUE ROCKS.
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of castor sugar, 2 ozs. of desiccated cocoanut,
4 whites of eggs, vanilla essence.
Method. — Pass the sugar through a fine sieve. Put the whites of
eggs with a good pinch of salt into a copper bowl or large basin, and
whip them to a very stiff froth. Now stir in as lightly as possible the
sugar and cocoanut, and add a few drops of vanilla essence. Have
ready a baking-tin, buttered and dredged lightly with flour, and upon
it pile the mixture in dessertspoonfuls, about 1 inch apart. Sprinkle
\ of them with finely-chopped pistachios, and the remainder with
coarse granulated sugar. Bake in a slow oven from 30 to 40 minutes.
2314. — COCOANUT TOFFEE.
Ingredients. — f- of a lb. of granulated sugar, a lb. of Demerara sugar,
\ of a lb. of desiccated cocoanut, \ of a lb. of glucose, 1 \ gills of water,
flavouring essence.
Method. — Dissolve the sugar in the water, add the glucose, and boil
to the “ little crack ” degree. Remove the stewpan from the fire, stir
in the cocoanut, and boil to the “ large crack.” Add a few drops of
flavouring essence, and pour on to oiled or buttered tins.
2315. — COLOURING FOR CONFECTIONERY,
JELLIES, ETC.
The principal colourings used in cookery and confectionery are red,
green and yellow, which can be bought ready prepared. Harmless
vegetable extracts should always be employed, and they maybe easily
prepared by following the directions given in subjoined recipes.
Red Colouring. — Boil \ a pint of water and 1 lb. of loaf sugar to a
syrup, and let it cool. Pound \ an oz. of carmine until smooth, stir
it into the syrup, simmer gently for 10 minutes, and strain. When
cold, add \ a teaspoonful of sal-ammoniac, bottle the mixture, and
cork securely.
Green Colouring. — Wash and thoroughly dry some spinach, pound it
until smooth, and squeeze it dry in a cloth. Place the spinach in a
copper stewpan, cook over the fire until the liquid that flows from it
1082
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
becomes curdled, then strain through a hair seive. Remove the puree
from the sieve, and use as required.
Yellow Colouring. — Simmer ^ of a pint of water, 3 ozs. of loaf sugar,
\ of an oz. of alum, and of an oz of Turkish saffron for 15 minutes,
then strain until clear. When cold, add rather more than of a pint
of spirits of wine, and bottle the mixture for use.
2316. — EVERTON TOFFEE.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of Demarara sugar, 4 ozs. of butter, J of a pint of
water, a good pinch of cream of tartar.
Method. — Dissolve the sugar in the water, add the cream of tartar,
and boil to the “ hard ball” degree. Remove the stewpan from the
fire, add the butter in small pieces, then boil to the “ crack ” degree.
Pour on to buttered or oiled tins; when sufficiently set, mark into
squares or oblongs, and when quite cold divide and wrap each piece
first in wax paper and afterwards in tin foil.
2317. — FONDANT CREAM.
Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of loaf or granulated cane sugar, 1 dessertspoonful
of glucose, 1 \ gills of water, flavourings, colourings.
Method. — Dissolve the sugar in the water, add the glucose, bring
to the boil quickly, and boil until the syrup registers 240 0 (“small
ball ”). Pour on to an oiled or wetted slab, let it cool slightly (for if
worked at its greatest heat it will grain), and work it with a spatula,
keeping the mass as much as possible together with a scraper held in
the left hand. When the paste has become sufficiently cool, knead it
well with the hands. When perfectly smooth, divide into 2 or 3 por-
tions, colour, flavour, and knead again separately, and use as required.
2318. — FONDANT CREAM. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 3 lbs. of loaf sugar, 1 pint of cold water, J of a teaspoonful
of cream of tartar, colouring and flavouring ingredients.
Method. — Dissolve the sugar in the water, add the cream of tartar,
and boil to the “ small ball ” degree. Pour the syrup into a basin,
let it remain until lukewarm, then stir well with a spatula until white
and slightly hardened. Now turn the paste on to a slab or large dish,
and knead it with the hands until perfectly smooth. Flavour and colour
to taste, and use as required.
2319. — FONDANT CREAM SQUARES.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of fondant cream, carmine, sap green colouring,
essence of pineapple, raspberry and vanilla.
Method. — Make the fondant according to either of the preceding
recipes, and divide it into 3 equal portions. Colour 1 portion green,
RECIPES FOR SWEETMEATS
io83.
and flavour it with vanilla; add a few drops of carmine to the second
portion, and flavour it with raspberry; flavour the remaining portion
with pineapple. Roll out into 3 squares of uniform size and thick-
ness, place them one above the other, and press lightly together with a
rolling pin. Let the paste stand for at least 12 hours, then cut up into
small squares. Roll in finely-chopped dried almonds or desiccated
cocoanut, or coat with chocolate. If preferred, they may be crystal-
lized by dipping in syrup prepared as below.
2320. — FONDANTS, LIQUID.
Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of cane loaf sugar, i\ gills of water, 1 dessert-
spoonful of glucose, colouring and flavouring to taste.
Method. — Dissolve the sugar in the water, bring to boiling point, add
the glucose, and boil to the “ soft ball ” degree. Turn on to a marble
slab, work well with a spatula until white, then knead with the hands
until perfectly smooth. Colour and flavour to taste, put a small portion
into a cup, stand the cup in a tin of boiling water, and stir until the
fondant has the appearance of thick cream. Any kind of fruit or nuts
may one by one be dipped into the liquid fondant; care should be taken
to coat them thoroughly; cherries, grapes, etc., may be held by the stem,
but nuts must be immersed and lifted out with a ring fork. During the
process the fondant must be kept warm to prevent it hardening.
2321. — FONDANTS, SYRUP FOR CRYSTALLISING.
Ingredients. — 3 lbs. of loaf sugar, 1 pint of cold water.
Method. — Dissolve the sugar in the water, then boil it to the “ small
thread ” degree. Pour the syrup into a basin, cover with a damp
cloth, and let it remain until perfectly cold. Place the prepared fond-
ants on a crystallizing tray or drainer, pour the syrup over, cover the
whole with a damp cloth, and let it stand in a rather warm dry
place from 9 to 10 hours. Drain off the syrup, let the fondants dry
thoroughly, and pack in air-tight boxes.
2322.— FONDANTS, WALNUT.
Ingredients. — i a lb. of fondant cream, 18 dried walnuts, green colour-
ing, pineapple essence.
Method. — Make the fondant cream as directed, colour it pale green,
and flavour it to taste with pineapple essence. Divide into 18 equal
portions, form them first into balls, then press them into oval cakes,
the same shape and size as the walnuts. Place the cakes between 2
halves of walnuts, press firmly together, and let them harden in a dry
and fairly warm place.
1084
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
2323. — GINGER TOFFEE.
Ingredients. — -2 lbs. of Demerara sugar, 1 oz. of ground ginger, \ a pint
of water.
Method. — Dissolve the sugar in the water, bring gently to boiling
point, stirring occasionally in the early part of the process, and con-
tinuously when nearing boiling point. When the syrup has reached
the “ ball ” degree, add the ginger, replace on the fire, stir until it begins
to thicken, then pour into a tin lined with well-buttered paper. When
cold, cut into diamonds and squares.
2324. — HARD GLAZE.
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of the best loaf sugar, \ a gill of water, fresh or
candied fruit.
Method. — Fresh fruit must be dried thoroughly; candied fruit must be
washed free from sugar and afterwards dried. Dissolve the sugar in
the water, add a few drops of lemon-juice, and boil to the “ small
crack ” degree. Plunge the stewpan into cold water, to prevent the
preparation becoming overcooked, and at once dip in the prepared
fruit one by one. Place them on an oiled tin until cold, then transfer
to sheets of white paper.
2325. — ICED FRUIT. (See No. 2200, Ices, Chapter
XXXIII.)
2326. — LEMON AND ACID DROPS.
Ingredients. — 1-|- lbs. of loaf sugar, a pint of water, \ a teaspoonful of
cream of tartar, essence of lemon, 1 dessertspoonful of tartaric acid.
Method. — Boil the sugar, water, and cream of tartar together until
the mixture acquires a pale yellow tinge, add essence of lemon to taste,
and turn the preparation on to an oiled slab. Sprinkle on the tartaric
acid, work it well in, and, as soon as it is cool enough to handle, form
into thin rolls, cut off short pieces with the scissors, and roll into shape
under the hand. Coat with sifted sugar, dry well, and afterwards store
in an airtight tin.
2327. — MACAROONS.
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of almonds, blanched and coarsely-chopped,
1 lb. of castor sugar, 5 or 6 whites of eggs, the finely-grated rind of 1
lemon.
Method. — Dry the almonds thoroughly in a cool oven, and pound them
finely, adding the whites of eggs gradually. When perfectly smooth
add the sugar and lemon-rind, turn the mixture into a stewpan, and
stir it over a moderate fire until lukewarm. Have ready a baking-tin
covered with wafer paper, arrange the mixture quickly in small round
portions, and bake in a moderate oven.
RECIPES FOR SWEETMEATS
1085
2328. — MACAROONS. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 9 ozs. of castor sugar, 8 ozs. of almonds, blanched and
coarsely-chopped, 1} ozs. of fine flour, the whites of 3 eggs, orange-
flower water.
Method. — Dry the almonds in a cool oven, pound them to a paste,
adding the whites of eggs gradually. When quite smooth, add the
flour, sugar and a few drops of orange-flower water. Turn the pre-
paration into a bag or paper cornet, and force out very small round
portions on to a tin covered with wafer paper. Bake in a moderate
oven.
2329. — MARASCHINO CREAM BON-BONS.
Ingredients. — For the centres: 2 ozs. of gum arabic, 2 tablespoonfuls of
Maraschino, icing sugar, 1 gill of hot water. For coating: i\ lbs. of
icing sugar (about), 2 whites of eggs, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice,
coffee essence, caramel.
Method. — Pass the sugar through a fine hair sieve. Soak the gum
arabic in the gill of hot water, strain, add the Maraschino and as much
icing sugar as will form a paste firm enough to be cut yet sufficiently
moist to pass readily through the forcer, and work until elastic. Put
it into a paper cornet or forcing-bag, and as it is pressed out, cut it
into small pieces, and let them drop on to a paper liberally dredged
with icing sugar. Allow these centres to remain in a warm place until
they harden slightly. Add the lemon-juice and whites of eggs gradually
to about of a lb. of icing sugar, work until perfectly smooth, then
flavour to taste with coffee essence, and colour nut-brown with caramel.
Dip in the centres one by one, and let them remain on a wire tray until
dry.
Note. — Curacoa or any other liqueur, orange-flower water, and many
flavouring essences, may be substituted for Maraschino, the bon-bons of course
taking their name from the flavouring ingredient used.
2330. — MARSH MALLOWS.
Ingredients. — a lb. of icing sugar, -j- of a lb. of gum arabic, 3 whites
of eggs, ■§■ a pint of water, caramel essence.
Method. — Soak the gum arabic in the water until soft, then heat
gently until dissolved, and strain it through fine muslin. Return
to the stewpan, add the sugar, and when dissolved, stir in the whites
of eggs, and whisk until the mixture is quite stiff. Flavour to taste,
sugar, and let it remain for about 10 hours. When ready, cut into small
squares, and dredge them liberally with icing sugar.
2331 . — MARZIPAN.
Ingredients — 1 lb. of loaf sugar, 12 ozs. of ground almonds, 3 ozs. of
sifted icing sugar, 2 whites of eggs, gills of water,
io86
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Boil the sugar and water to 240° F., then draw the sugar
boiler or pan aside, and when the syrup has cooled slightly add the
almonds and whites of eggs. Stir by the side of the fire for a few
minutes, then turn on to a slab, stir in the icing sugar, and work with
a spatula until the preparation is cool enough to handle. Knead until
perfectly smooth, add flavouring to taste, and mould into desired
shapes.
2332. — MARZIPAN, GERMAN.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of almonds, f of a lb. of castor sugar, \ a lb. of
sifted icing sugar, J of a gill of orange flower water.
Method. — Blanch and shred the almonds finely, and pound them
to a paste with the orange flower water. Put the castor sugar and
pounded almonds into a stewpan placed in a tin of boiling water, and
stir until the preparation, when touched, does not stick to the fingers.
Turn on to a slab, add the icing sugar, work with a spatula until cool
enough to handle, then knead until perfectly smooth. Colour and
flavour to taste, and use as required.
2333. — MARZIPAN SLICES.
Ingredients. — Marzipan No. 2331, Vanilla, raspberry and coffee
essences, brown, red and green colouring substances.
Method. — Divide the marzipan into 3 equal portions, and colour
them brown, red and green. Flavour the brown with coffee essence,
the red with raspberry, and the green with vanilla. Roll the 3 pieces
out to a uniform shape, and about -J- of an inch in thickness. Brush
the red piece over with water, cover with the green piece, brush lightly
over with water, and lay the brown marzipan on the top. Press firmly
with the rolling pin to make the parts adhere, brush the brown surface
lightly over with water, cover with wafer paper, and roll gently until
it becomes firmly attached. Turn the marzipan over, moisten and
cover with paper, and roll as before until the paper adheres. When
dry and set, cut the marzipan into narrow strips, and each strip into
diamonds or squares.
2334. - NOUGAT.
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of icing sugar, 4 ozs. of honey, 8 ozs. of almonds,
2 whites of eggs, wafer paper.
Method. — Blanch and dry the almonds thoroughly. Line a box
of suitable size first with white paper and then with wafer paper, both
of which must be cut to fit exactly. Put the sugar, honey and whites
of eggs into a copper sugar boiler or pan, and stir by the side of the fire
until the mixture becomes thick and white. Drop a little into cold
water; if it at once hardens, remove the pan fiom the fire, and stir in the
RECIPES FOR SWEETMEATS
1087
almonds. Dredge the slab with icing sugar, turn on to it the nougat,
and iorm into a ball. Press into the prepared box, cover with paper,
let it remain under pressure until cold, then cut up into squares.
2335. — NOUGAT. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — f- of a lb. of best castor sugar, ^ a lb. of almonds, 1
dessertspoonful of lemon-juice.
Method. — Blanch and chop the almonds coarsely, dry them thor-
oughly in the oven, but do not let them brown. Place the sugar
and lemon-juice in a copper sugar boiler or stewpan, stir with a spatula
or wooden spoon until it acquires a pale brown colour, and add the
prepared almonds. Turn on to an oiled slab, press it out with a hot wet
knife, mark into small squares, and when cold break them apart.
2336. — NOUGAT BASKET.
Ingredients. — f of a lb. of best castor sugar, \ a lb. of almonds, 1 dessert-
spoonful of lemon-juice.
Method. — Prepare the nougat as in the preceding recipe, and keep
it warm. Take a small quantity at a time, knead and roll it out thinly,
mould it into the desired shape, and trim the edges with a pair of scissors.
Handles may be made of fine strips of nougat; they should be moulded
on a round ruler, a rolling-pin, or anything of suitable size and shape,
but whatever is used, it should first be covered with oiled or buttered
paper. The ends, when slightly warmed, are easily attached to the
baskets. This nougat may also be used for lining moulds, which should
be previously oiled.
2337. - ORANGE BISCUITS.
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of loaf sugar, 4 ozs. of butter, 1 oz. of candied
orange peel finely shredded, 2 ozs. of flour, 4 eggs, 2 or 3 oranges, castor
sugar.
Method. — Rub the sugar on the rind of the orange, and afterwards
pound it finely. Cream the butter, add first the sugar, then the yolks
of eggs, and when well mixed, stir in lightly the candied orange peel,
flour, and stiffly-whisked whites of eggs. Turn the mixture into well
buttered biscuit moulds, sprinkle with castor sugar, and bake slowly
until set.
Time. — To bake, from 7 to 10 minutes. Average Cost, is. Sufficient
for 1 large dish.
2338. — ORANGE DROPS.
Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of loaf sugar, 1 pint of water, 3 or 4 oranges, saffron.
Method. — Rub some of the sugar on the oranges to obtain the zest.
Boil all the sugar and the water to the “ small crack,” and add a little
io88
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
saffron. Cool slightly, then pour on to an oiled slab, mark off into small
squares, and break them asunder when cold. Or, use a sugar boiler
with a spout, and drop the preparation in small pieces : this process
may be aided by using an oiled wire or knife. Let the drops remain
in a drying closet for about 2 hours, and afterwards store them in an
airtight box.
2339. — ORANGES, ICED. (See Ices, Chapter XXXIII.)
2340. — PINEAPPLE SNOW CANDY.
Ingredients. — 1 pint of clarified syrup No. 2231, 1 white of egg, pine-
apple essence, saffron-yellow colouring, 1 tablespoonful of castor sugar.
Method. — Boil the prepared syrup to the “ crack ” degree, and add
a few drops of saffron-yellow. Meanwhile whip the white of egg stiffly
and add to it the castor sugar and a few drops of pineapple essence.
Line some moulds or small tins with oiled paper, and sprinkle the
bottom and sides of them liberally with icing or castor sugar. As soon
as the syrup is sufficiently boiled, plunge the stewpan into cold water
to arrest further cooking, and let it cool slightly, then pour it on the
white of egg and sugar preparation, and stir briskly to a froth. When
ready, pour into the prepared moulds, and turn out when perfectly set.
The flavour and colour may be varied as desired, the candy of course
taking its name from the flavouring ingredient.
2341. — RASPBERRY CREAM BON-BONS.
Ingredients. — For the centres: 2 ozs. of gum arabic, icing sugar,
carmine, essence of raspberry. For coating: 4 ozs. of unsweetened,
finely-grated chocolate, 2 whites of eggs, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice,
1 -l- lbs. of best icing sugar (about).
Method. — Pass the sugar through a fine hair sieve. Soak the gum
arabic in 1 gill of hot water, strain, colour and flavour to taste, stir
in gradually as much icing sugar as will form a paste firm enough to
be cut, yet moist enough to pass readily through the piping tube, and
work it well. Have ready a paper cornet with a tube attached, fill
with the preparation, press out, cut off into small pieces, and let them
fall on to a paper covered thickly with icing sugar. Let the bon-bons
remain in a warm place while the coating is being prepared, in order
that they may slightly harden. Put about f of a lb. of icing sugar into
a basin, add the lemon-juice and whites of eggs gradually, and work
until perfectly smooth. Put the chocolate with a tablespoonful of
warm water into a basin, place it over a small saucepan of boiling water,
and stir until dissolved, and when cool, add it to the white of egg and
sugar preparation. Mix thoroughly, dip in the bon-bons one by one,
place on a wire tray, and allow them to dry.
DESSERT
i. Bananas, Nectarines and Cherries. 2. Grapes, Apple and Strawberries.
44
P P
RECIPES FOR SWEETMEATS
1089
2342. — ROUT CAKES OR PETITS FOURS.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of almonds, 1 lb. of castor sugar, orange-flower
water.
Method. — Blanch, dry and pound the almonds finely, adding gradually
a little orange-flower water. When reduced to a fine paste, put it
into the stewpan with the sugar, and stir over the fire until dry
and when touched does not adhere to the finger. Form into small
fancifully shaped biscuits, and bake in a moderately cool oven.
2343. — SPUN SUGAR TRIFLE. (See To Spin Sugar,
No. 2276.)
The spun sugar may be used to mask or garnish ices, creams, trifles
and other cold sweets.
2344. — STRAWBERRY DROPS. (See Clove Drops,
No. 2309.)
Substitute strawberry essence for clove essence.
2345. — STRAWBERRIES. (See Strawberries and
Cherries, No. 2263.)
2346. — TOFFEE.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of loaf sugar, p of a pint of water, a pinch of cream
of tartar, lemon essence or other flavouring.
Method. — Put the water and sugar into a sugar boiler or stewpan,
stir occasionally until dissolved, bring to the boiling point, and add the
cream of tartar. Boil to the “little crack ” degree (310°), pour into
an oiled tin, allow it to cool slightly, then mark off into diamonds or
squares with a knife, and when cold divide into sections thus formed.
2347. — TOFFEE, FRENCH.
Ingredients. — 1 pint of golden syrup, f- of a lb. of granulated sugar,
2 tablespoonfuls of cocoanut, 2 tablespoonfuls of almonds, 2 table-
spoonfuls of vinegar, i teaspoonful of lemon-juice, 1 egg.
Method. — Put the golden syrup and sugar into a copper sugar boiler
or pan, and boil to the ‘‘large crack” degree (see p. 1071). Add the
almonds previously blanched and chopped coarsely, the cocoanut
vinegar, lemon-juice, and the well-beaten egg. Replace on the fire,
bring to boiling point, and pour on to wet tins.
2348. — TOFFEE, LEMON.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of granulated sugar, 4 ozs. of butter, the juice of
1 lemon, essence of lemon.
N N
1090
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the sugar, boil up slowly,
stir and boil for a few minutes, and add 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice,
continue boiling to the “ crack ” degree, add the rest of the lemon-juice
and a few drops of essence of lemon, and pour at once on to a buttered
or oiled tin.
2349. — TOFFEE, RASPBERRY.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of sugar, 1 gill of cold water, a few drops of cochineal,
a few drops of raspberry essence, a pinch of cream of tartar.
Method. — Dissolve the sugar in the water, then add the cream of
tartar, bring to boiling point, skim carefully, and boil to the “ large
crack.” Remove the stewpan from the fire, stir in the cochineal and
raspberry essence, and pour into an oiled or buttered tin. Let it
harden stiffly, then mark off into sections, and divide them when cold.
2350. TOFFEE, RUSSIAN.
Ingredients. — | of a lb. of loaf sugar, f of a pint of cream, flavouring
essence.
Method. — Dissolve the sugar in the cream, stand the stewpan in a
bain-marie or tin of boiling water, and stir and cook until the mixture
thickens and leaves the sides of the pan. Remove from the fire, stir
in the flavouring essence, pour on to oiled or buttered tins, and when
cold cut into squares.
2351. — TOFFEE, RUSSIAN. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of loaf sugar, 4 of a lb. of butter, \ of a pint of
cream, 1 tablespoonful of red-currant jelly, vanilla or other flavouring
essence.
Method. — Place the sugar, butter and cream in a stewpan, and stir
by the side of the fire until the mixture thickens and leaves the sides
of the pan clean. Flavour to taste, pour on to an oiled or buttered
tin, and when cold, cut into squares.
2352. — TREACLE CANDY.
Ingredients. — 1 pint of treacle, |- of a lb. of brown sugar, 2 ozs. of
butter, 1 tablespoonful of vinegar, 1 teaspoonful of carbonate of soda.
Method. — Place the treacle, sugar, butter and vinegar in a large stew-
pan, boil until a few drops will harden immediately when dropped into
cold water, then stir in the carbonate of soda, previously dissolved in
a little hot water. Pour at once into an oiled or buttered tin, turn the
edges in as they cool, and as soon as the whole can be handled pull it
until white, draw it into sticks, and cut into short lengths.
RECIPES FOR SWEETMEATS
1091
2353. — TREACLE TOFFEE.
Ingredients. — 1 pint of treacle, 2 ozs. of brown sugar, 1 oz. of butter,
j a gill of vinegar, \ a teaspoonful of carbonate of soda, essence of
almonds.
Method. — Place the sugar in a sugar-boiler or stewpan, pour on the
vinegar, and when dissolved add the treacle and boil to the “ large
ball ” degree. Remove the pan from the fire, add the soda dissolved
in a little hot water, the butter, almond essence to taste, boil to the
“ little crack ” degree, and pour into an oiled or buttered tin. When
partially set, mark into bars or squares, and when quite firm break into
sections.
2354. — TURKISH DELIGHT.
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of icing sugar, 1 lb. of loaf sugar, 1 oz. of leaf
gelatine, 2 ozs. of almonds or pistachios, 1 orange, 1 lemon, 1 table-
spoonful of rum, 1 gill of water.
Method. — Put the gelatine to soak in cold water. Blanch the almonds
or pistachios, and chop them coarsely. Remove the rinds of the
orange and lemon in thin fine strips, place them in a copper sugar
boiler or stewpan with the loaf sugar, water, and the strained juice
of the orange and lemon. When boiling add the gelatine, simmer until
dissolved, then strain into a basin and add the rum. Let the mixture
remain until on the point of setting, then stir in the almonds or pis-
tachios, and pour at once into a wetted round tin. When perfectly
set turn the jelly out, cut it into i-inch square pieces, and roll them in
icing sugar.
2355. — WALNUT TOFFEE.
Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of golden syrup, 1 lb. of walnuts, 1 tablespoonful
of glucose, a good pinch of carbonate of soda.
Method. — Blanch the walnuts, break them into small pieces or chop
them coarsely, and dissolve the carbonate of soda in a small quantity
of hot water. Bring the syrup slowly to boiling point, add the glucose
and boil to the '' little crack ” degree. Now draw the stewpan aside,
stir in the prepared walnuts and carbonate of soda, and at once pour
on to an oiled or buttered tin. When sufficiently set, mark into sec-
tions, and when perfectly cold, divide and wrap each piece in wax
paper. t
SALADS, SALAD DRESS-
INGS AND SANDWICHES
CHAPTER XXXV
Salads. — Although lettuce frequently forms the foundation of salads
composed of raw materials, there are few vegetables and edible plants
that may not be used for the purpose. The long list of those generally
regarded as most appropriate includes artichokes, asparagus, beetroot,
carrots, cauliflower, cresses, cucumbers, endive, French beans, lentils,
lettuce, onions, potatoes, radishes, salsify, spinach, tomatoes, walnuts,
and many other products. On the Continent, a variety of tempting
salads are prepared from cold cooked vegetables, which in England
are rarely utilized in this manner, but a typical French salad is com-
posed entirely of one vegetable, for the cooks of that nation will on no
account mix any two vegetables or salad plants. By these means, the
characteristic delicate flavour of choice vegetables is preserved ; hence
the superiority of salads prepared by them. As compounding salads
is regarded as an art that only a few specially gifted excel in, ordinary
cooks cannot be expected to attain perfection in this respect, but
careful attention to a few simple details should enable them to prepare
at least a palatable dish. To ensure success, it is absolutely necessary
that the plants and vegetables employed should be young, freshly
gathered, and crisp. If stale and limp, they may be freshened by
immersion in cold water for a time, otherwise it is better to simply wash
them thoroughly. Probably the point upon which perfection largely
depends is the more or less complete removal of moisture after washing.
When a salad basket is not available, the materials should be well
drained and shaken in a colander, and afterwards in a clean dry cloth
held by the corners, and shaken lightly until the salad is dry. Lettuce
should always be torn into shreds, not cut with a knife; and it is a good
plan to pour the salad dressing into the bottom of the bowl, lay the
vegetables upon it, and mix vigorously at the moment of serving.
Salads afford considerable scope for the exercise of individual taste and
inventive faculty, and whatever their composition, they should always
look cool, inviting, and dainty.
1092
RECIPES FOR SALADS, ETC.
1093
The term Sandwich was originally applied to slices of meat placed-
between bread and butter, but it has now a much wider meaning, for
it is used to describe an endless number of pounded and shredded '
preparations, the varieties being multiplied by the addition of savoury
butters, sauces, and condiments unknown in the eighteenth century
when sandwiches were first introduced. The old comparatively
substantial form still accompanies the sportsman and traveller, but
those intended for “ afternoon tea ” are dainty trifles, pleasing the eye
and palate, but too flimsy to allay hunger where it exists.
To have sandwiches in perfection the bread should not be more than
one day old, and sandwich loaves should be provided when a large
number have to be prepared, or large French rolls, when rolled sand-
wiches are preferred. Creamed butter, No. 2465, is more easily spread
than ordinary butter, but when the latter is used it should first be
beaten to a cream. Savoury anchovy, lobster, prawn, and shrimp
butters may be usefully employed to give piquancy and variety to other
substances; they are also used alone in the preparation of rolled
sandwiches, which consist of single slices of bread and butter, spread
with some prepared substance, and then lightly rolled.
Sandwiches for afternoon tea or any occasion where they will come
in contact with gloved lingers, should be left perfectly plain on the
outside, but when they may be eaten with a fork, some pretty effects
may be produced by decorating them with variously-coloured chaud-
froid sauces. Or they may be decorated with cold aspic jelly, and gar-
nished with lobster coral, Krona pepper, parsley, hard-boiled egg, etc.
Salads
2355. AMERICAN SALAD. (Fr.— Salade a l’Ameri-
caine.)
Ingredients. — x white cabbage very finely shredded, 2 ozs. of butter,
1 gill of vinegar, 1 teaspoonful of sugar, 1 teaspoonful of salt, pepper
to taste, j of a pint of sour cream.
Method. — Bring the butter, vinegar, sugar, salt and pepper just to
boiling point, pour it over the cabbage, and, when quite cold, stir in
the cream, and serve. Or, moisten the cabbage with salad dressing,
and serve directly.
2357. — ANCHOVY SALAD. (Fr. — Salade d’Anchois.)
(See Spanish Sardine Salad, No. 2418.)
Substitute anchovies for sardines.
1094 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
2358. -APPLE AND CUCUMBER SALAD.
( Fr . — Salade de Pommes et Concombres.)
Ingredients. — Equal quantities of sliced apples and cucumber, lemon-
juice, salt and pepper, whipped cream.
Method. — Season the apples and cucumber with salt and pepper,
and sprinkle with lemon-j nice. Stir in a little whipped cream, and
serve piled in a salad-bowl.
2359. — ARTICHOKE SALAD. (Fr.— Salade d’Arti-
chauts.)
Ingredients. — Cooked globe artichokes, vinaigrette sauce No. 2450.
Method. — Let the artichokes become quite cold, then serve in a salad-
bowl or dish, and hand the sauce separately.
2360. — ASPARAGUS AND CAULIFLOWER SALAD.
(Fr. — Salade d’Asperges et Choufleur).
Ingredients. — 50 cooked asparagus points, 1 cauliflower cooked,
mayonnaise or other salad dressing ( see recipes for same).
Method. — Divide the cauliflower into small sprays, and mix with
them the asparagus points. When quite cold, toss them lightly in a
little salad dressing, and serve.
2361. — ASPARAGUS SALAD. (Fr.- Salade d’Asperges.)
Ingredients. — 50 heads of cooked asparagus, mayonnaise, vinaigrette,
or some salad sauce ( see recipes for same).
Method. — Let the asparagus remain on ice for 2 or 3 hours, then coat
the tips with sauce, dish up neatly and serve.
2362. — ASPIC MAYONNAISE. (Fr.— Mayonnaise
d’Aspic.)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of aspic jelly, of a pint of stiff mayonnaise
sauce.
Method. — Dissolve the aspic, let it become quite cold, then stir in the
mayonnaise, and use as directed.
2363. — BACON SALAD. ( [See Potato Salad, No. 2406.)
2364. — BEETROOT AND ONION SALAD. (See Onion
Salad, No. 2403.)
Use one part of thinly sliced onion and two parts of sliced and
pickled beetroot.
RECIPES FOR SALADS, ETC
1095
2365- — BEETROOT SALAD. (Fr — Salade de Better-
ave.)
Arrange stamped-out or plain slices of beetroot overlapping each
other closely, moisten with salad dressing (see recipes for same ), and
serve garnished with shredded celery, or tufts of finely scraped horse-
radish.
2366. - BRUSSELS SPROUTS SALAD. (Fr.— Salade de
Choux de Bruxelles.)
Ingredients. — Cooked Brussels sprouts, salad dressing No. 2444, beet-
root.
Method. — Toss the sprouts lightly in a little salad dressing, pile in a
salad-bowl, and decorate with beetroot.
2367. — CARDON SALAD. ( See Celery Salad, No.
2369.)
2368. — CAULIFLOWER SALAD. (Fr.— Salade de
Choufleur.)
Ingredients. — Cooked cauliflower, salad dressing ( see recipes for
same).
Method. — When cold, break the cauliflower into sprays, toss these
lightly in salad dressing, and serve garnished with cress and beetroot.
2369. — CELERY AND CUCUMBER SALAD.
(Fr. — Salade de Concombre et Celeri.)
Ingredients. — 1 head of celery, 1 cucumber, 2 or 3 bunches of small red
radishes, \ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped gherkin, \ a teaspoonful of
finely-chopped parsley, 2 hard-boiled eggs, mayonnaise sauce, or salad
dressing ( see recipes for same), salt and pepper.
Method. — Use only the white part of the celery; trim and wash it,
shred lengthwise into fine strips, let it remain in cold water for about
\ an hour, then drain and dry thoroughly. Peel the cucumber thinly,
cut it across into 1 inch lengths, and shred them in the same way as the
celery. Mix the salad dressing, celery, cucumber, and a seasoning of
salt and pepper thoroughly together, heap it up in the bowl, surround
the base with the radishes, garnish with slices of hard-boiled egg, sprinkle
over the gherkin and parsley, and serve.
Radish (Fr. rave). — This is the common name given to the root of the Raphanus sativus, one of the
varieties of the cultivated horseradish. There are red and white radishes ; and the French have also
violet and black varieties, of which the Mack are the larger. Radishes are composed of nearly the
same constituents as turnips, that is to say, mostly fibre and nitrogen ; and, being generally eaten raw,
it is on the last of these that their flavour depends.
1096 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
2370. — CELERY AND NUT SALAD. (See Walnut and
Celery Mayonnaise, No. 2435.)
2371. — CELERY AND TRUFFLE SALAD.
(Fr. — Salade de Celeri et Truffes.)
Trim the white part of i or 2 heads of celery with its root, and
wash thoroughly. Cut it into very fine shreds, and put these into
cold water with the juice of a lemon to soak. Slice and cut into shreds
3 or 4 large truffles. Drain the celery, and mix with the truffles. To
this add a tablespoonful of Madeira wine, and dress neatly on a glass
dish or in a salad bowl. Coat with mayonnaise sauce, decorate to
taste, and serve.
2372. — CHICKEN SALAD. (Fr.— Salade de Volaille.)
Ingredients. — 1 boiled chicken, 2 heads of lettuce, 2 strips of white
celery, 2 hard boiled eggs, 12 stoned olives, 1 tablespoonful of capers,
1 tablespoonful of strips of gherkin, 1 gill of mayonnaise sauce, 1 table-
spoonful of tarragon vinegar.
Method. — Remove the bones, and cut the flesh into small neat pieces.
Wash the lettuce and dry it thoroughly ; wash the celery and cut it
into dice. Mix the chicken, celery, and lettuce together in a basin,
add the vinegar, and season with salt and pepper. Transfer to a salad
bowl, pile high in the centre, cover with mayonnaise sauce, garnish
with alternate groups of lettuce leaves, quarters of hard-boiled egg,
stoned olives, shredded gherkin and capers, and serve.
2373. — CHICORY SALAD. (See Endive Salad, No.
2386.)
2374. — COLD MEAT SALAD, FRENCH STYLE.
(Fr. — Salade de Viande a la Frangaise.)
Ingredients. — Cold roast or boiled meat, 4 anchovy fillets, 2 shallots,
2 tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, 1 tablespoonful of wine vinegar, \ a tea-
spoonful of finely-chopped parsley, one teaspoonful of French mustard,
salt and pepper. For garnishing: finely-shredded pickled gherkins,
finely-chopped capers.
Method. — Cut the meat into strips about inches in length and 1 inch
in width. Chop the shallots and fillets of anchovy finely, put them
into a basin, add \ a teaspoonful of parsley, the oil, vinegar and mustard,
season with a little salt and pepper, then stir in the slices of meat, cover,
and put aside for 2 hours, stirring occasionally. When ready to serve,
arrange the salad in a pyramidal form in a salad bowl, garnish with
strips of gherkin and chopped capers, and serve.
RECIPES FOR SALADS, ETC.
109;
2375. — COOKED VEGETABLE SALAD. ( See Russian
Salad, No. 2409.)
2376. — CRAB SALAD. ( See East Indian Salad, No.
2384.)
2377. — CRESS SALAD. (Fr. — Salade au Cresson.)
Ingredients. — Watercress, mustard and cress, 2 hard-boiled eggs,
French Orleans vinegar, tarragon vinegar, Provence oil, mignonette
pepper, salt.
Method. — Mix together equal quantities of French Orleans vinegar,
Provence oil, and tarragon vinegar. Season this with salt and
mignonette pepper. Have ready some small cress and watercress,
thoroughly washed and trimmed. Drain well, and pour over the
prepared dressing. Mix well but lightly, and put into a salad bowl.
Garnish with hard-boiled eggs, and serve.
2378. — CUCUMBER SALAD. (Fr.— Salade de Con-
combre.)
Ingredients.— 1 cucumber, a teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley,
vinegar, salad-oil, salt and pepper.
Method. — Peel the cucumber thinly, cut it into very thin slices, and
place them in a salad bowl or dish. Mix 2 parts of salad-oil with 1
part of vinegar, add the parsley, salt and pepper to taste, stir well, and
pour over the cucumber.
Cucumber (Fr. concombrc). — The cucumber is refreshing, but neither nutritious nor digestible,
and should be excluded from the regimen of the delicate. There are various methods of preparing
cucumbers. When gathered young, they are called gherkins ; these pickled are much used in season-
ings.
2379. — CURRY SALAD. (Fr. — Salade de Homard au
Kari.)
Ingredients. — 1 lobster coarsely flaked, 1 cucumber sliced, 1 teaspoonful
of finely chopped shallot, 1 teaspoonful of finely chopped mango
chutney, 1 teaspoonful of curry paste, 3 tablespoonfuls of salad-oil,
cayenne, shredded lettuce, endive.
Method. — Mix the shallot, chutney, curry paste, a good pinch of
cayenne and the oil well together. Add the lobster and cucumber,
and, when well mixed, serve on a bed of lettuce, garnished with tufts
of endive.
2380. — DANDELION SALAD. (Fr.— Salade de Dent-
de-lion.)
Ingredients. — 1 pint of young dandelion leaves, oil, vinegar, salt and
pepper.
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1098
Method. — Thoroughly pick, wash, drain and dry the leaves, sprinkle
over them a little salt and pepper, add 1 dessertspoonful of vinegar
and 2 of salad oil, mix well, and serve.
A more palatable salad may be made by mixing equal parts of
dandelion and lettuce, or dandelion and beetroot.
2381. — DUCK SALAD. (Fr.: — Salade de Canard.)
Ingredients. — \ a cold duck, \ a head of celery, \ a bunch of water-
cress, 1 cabbage lettuce, 2 thin slices of sour orange (unpeeled), 1 tea-
spoonful each of chopped olives and parsley, 2 tablespoonfuls of salad-
oil, 1 tablespoonful of Orleans vinegar, mayonnaise sauce, salt and
pepper.
Method. — Cut the duck into i-inch dice, wash the celery, trim away
the green parts, and cut the white portion into fine strips. Place both
duck and celery in a basin, add the oil and vinegar, season with salt
and pepper, and let the preparation stand for a while. Cut each slice
of orange into 8 sections, trim, wash, and dry the lettuce and watercress,
and line a salad bowl with the leaves of the lettuce. Arrange the water-
cress and sections of orange on the top of them, cover with a thin
layer of mayonnaise sauce, and add the preparation of duck and
celery. Spread the surface lightly with mayonnaise sauce, sprinkle
over the chopped parsley, and serve.
2382. — DUTCH SALAD. ( See Flemish Salad, No.
2389.)
2383. — DUTCH BEETROOT SALAD. (Fr.— Salade
de Betteraves a la Hollandaise.)
Ingredients. — Beetroot sliced and stamped out with a fancy cutter,
shredded lettuce, cress, hard-boiled eggs, aspic jelly, mayonnaise
No. 201.
Method. — Pass the yolks of the eggs through a sieve, chop the white
coarsely, and stir them into some stiffly whipped cold liquid aspic jelly.
Cover the bottom of a mould with some of this aspic; when cold, add
successive layers of beetroot, lettuce and cress, separating each layer
with a little aspic jelly. Repeat this until the mould is full. When
cold, turn out, mask lightly with mayonnaise, garnish with sliced
beetroot and yolk of egg, then serve.
2384. — EAST INDIAN SALAD. (Fr.— Salade a
1’Indi enne.)
Ingredients. — -1 large crab, 1 gill of tarragon vinegar, 1 teaspoonful of
chilli vinegar, 1 tablespoonful of salad-oil, 1 anchovy, shredded celery,
lettuce, endive, cayenne, salt.
RECIPES FOR SALADS, ETC.
1099
Method. — Pound the anchovy and crab in a mortar, add the salad-oil,
vinegar and seasoning to taste, and serve garnished with celery, lettuce
and endive. Another variety of crab salad is made by mixing the
prepared crab with shredded lettuce, to which may be added endive,
celery, etc.
2385. — EGG SALAD. (Fr. — Salade aux Oeufs.)
Ingredients. — 6 hard-boiled eggs, 1 crisp lettuce, a few slices of beet-
root, 1 tablespoonful of capers, teaspoonfuls of chopped parsley,
1 slice of toasted bread, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, 1 tablespoonful of
mayonnaise sauce No. 201.
Method. — Cut the eggs across into rather thick slices; wash, trim,
and dry the lettuce thoroughly; whip the cream stiffly, and add it, with
a teaspoonful of parsley, to the mayonnaise sauce. Place the round
of toast in a salad bowl; upon it arrange a layer of lettuce leaves, then
a layer of mayonnaise, cover with slices of egg, and season with salt
and pepper. Repeat until the materials are used, piling the centre
somewhat high, garnish with the capers, and slices of beetroot, sprinkle
on the remainder of the parsley, and serve.
2386. — ENDIVE SALAD. ( Fr . — Salade de Chicoree.)
Ingredients. — Endive, cress, shredded celery, boiled beetroot, salad
dressing ( see recipes for same).
Method. — Separate the endive into tufts, toss these in salad dressing,
pile them high in a salad-bowl, and garnish with cress, celery and beet-
root.
2387. — ENGLISH SALAD. (Fr. — Salade a T Anglais.)
Ingredients. — Shredded lettuce, watercress, mustard and cress,
sliced radishes, a few spring onions finely sliced, sugar, salt, pepper,
equal parts of oil and vinegar, sliced tomatoes.
Method. — Mix together the lettuce, cress, radishes and onions. Add
a little sugar and a seasoning of salt and pepper to the oil and vinegar,
pour it over the salad, and serve gai'nished with sliced tomatoes.
2388. — FISH SALAD. (Fr. — Salade de Poisson.)
Ingredients. — Cold fish, mayonnaise sauce, or other salad dressing,
lettuce, endive, cress.
Method. — Separate the fish into large flakes, place it alternately
with layers of lettuce, etc., in a salad-bowl, covering each layer very
lightly with mayonnaise or other salad dressing. Decorate with
olives, sliced beetroot, prawns, shrimps, gherkin, or any suitable fish
garnish.
1100
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
2389. — FLEMISH SALAD. (Fr. — Salade a la Flamande.)
Ingredients. — Equal quantities of cooked Brussels sprouts, boiled
potatoes sliced, sprays of boiled cauliflower, sliced beetroot, and chopped
apples. To 1 bowl of salad allow 1 small herring separated into small
flakes, mayonnaise or other salad dressing ( see recipes for same).
Method. — Mix all the ingredients together, add salad dressing to
taste, and serve.
2390. — GAME SALAD. (Fr. — Salade de Gibier.)
Ingredients. — The remains of any kind of cold game, 1 hard-boiled
egg, 2 lettuces, cayenne, pepper and salt, mayonnaise sauce No. 201,
pickled beetroot for garnish.
Method. — Remove the bones, and cut the flesh into dice of medium
size. Wash, trim and dry the lettuce, and tear it into shreds. Stamp
out some star-shaped pieces of white of egg, chop up the remainder
of the egg, and mix it with the meat. Arrange the meat, lettuce,
and mayonnaise in alternate layers in a salad bowl, raising the centre
in a pyramidal form, and add a sprinkling of salt and pepper to each
layer. Cover the surface with a thin layer of mayonnaise sauce, garnish
with stars of sliced beetroot and hard-boiled yolk of egg, and serve.
2391. — GERMAN SALAD. (Fr. — Salade a l’Allemande.)
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of cold boiled beef shredded, 1 tablespoonful of
finely chopped onion, r tablespoonful of coarsely chopped gherkin,
3 tablespoonfuls of pickled red cabbage, \ a beetroot sliced, 1 boiled
potato sliced. For the salad dressing: of a pint of white wine,
J of a pint of salad-oil, 1 tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar. For
garnish : 2 hard-boiled eggs.
Method. — Beat the oil, wine and vinegar well together, pour the
preparation over the salad mixture, let it remain on ice for 3 or 4
hours, then garnish with sections of egg, and serve.
2392. — GREEN PEA AND BEAN SALAD. (Fr.— Salade
de Petits Pois et Haricots Verts.)
Ingredients. — Cooked green peas, cooked French beans, 1 small cooked
beetroot, 2 hard-boiled eggs, -2- a teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley,
a clove of garlic, salad dressing No. 2444.
Method. — For this salad preserved peas and beans may be used.
When using fresh ones, boil them separately in slightly salted water
containing a small piece of soda, drain well, and, when cold, cut the
beans into 1 inch lengths. Cut the clove of garlic in two, and rub the
inside of the salad bowl with the cut side. Mix the peas and beans
RECIPES FOR SALADS, ETC.
IIOI
with 2 or 3 saladspoonfuls of dressing, and a seasoning of salt and
pepper, garnish with rings of hard-boiled egg and slices of beetroot,
sprinkle the parsley over, and serve.
2393. — HORSERADISH SALAD. (Fr.— Salade de Rai-
fort.)
Ingredients. — Finely scraped horseradish, mayonnaise sauce, cress.
Method. — Moisten the horseradish with mayonnaise, and garnish
with cress.
2394. — ITALIAN SALAD. (Fr.— Salade a ITtalienne.)
Ingredients. — Equal parts of L-inch slices of cooked carrots, turnips,
potatoes and beetroot, and a corresponding quantity of Brussels
sprouts, French beans, and sprigs of cauliflower, all cooked, Tartare
sauce No. 213.
Method. — Mix all well together, moisten with the sauce, and serve.
Note. — This Salad is frequently prepared in an ordinary basin mould, which
is masked with Aspic, and afterwards decorated with tomatoes and other
vegetables, in the manner shown in the coloured illustrations.
2395. — JAPANESE SALAD. ( Fr . — Salade a la Japon-
aise.)
Ingredients. — 3 medium-sized truffles coarsely chopped, 3 medium-
sized cold potatoes cut into dice, 18 cooked mussels, 1 teaspoonful of
blanched onion finely chopped, 1 teaspoonful of finely chopped parsley,
12 small fillets of anchovy, small lettuce leaves, J- a wineglassful of
champagne, nutmeg, salt and pepper.
Method. — Mix the truffles, potatoes, a pinch of nutmeg, and a season-
ing of salt and pepper together, and add the champagne. Let it stand
for 2 hours, then add the mussels, onion and parsley, and serve garnished
with lettuce leaves and fillets of anchovy.
2396. — LENTIL SALAD. (Fr. — Salade de Lentilles.)
Ingredients. — 1 pint of cooked lentils, i of a pint of shredded celery,
1 tablespoonful of finely chopped cooked onion, salad dressing ( see
recipes for same).
Method. — Place a little salad dressing in a salad-bowl, put in the
lentils, etc., mix well, and garnish with beetroot, cress or radishes.
2397. — LETTUCE SALAD. (Fr. — Salade de Laitue.)
Ingredients. — 2 heads of cabbage lettuce, 2 hard-boiled eggs, 3 salad-
spoonfuls of salad-oil, 1 saladspoonful of tarragon vinegar, \ a tea-
poonful of chopped-parsley, salt and pepper.
1102
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Trim, wash and dry the lettuce thoroughly, tear it into
shreds, and place it in a salad bowl. Put about 2 saltspoonfuls of salt
and 1- a saltspoonful of pepper into the salad spoon, fill it with tarragon
vinegar, stir until the salt is dissolved, then pour the contents of the
spoon over the salad. Add the 3 tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, mix the
salad thoroughly, place on the top the eggs cut into quarters, sprinkle
over the chopped parsley, and serve.
2398. — MACEDOINE SALAD. (See Mixed Vegetable
Salad, No. 2400.)
2399. — MILANESE SALAD. (See Italian Salad, No.
2394.)
2400. — MIXED VEGETABLE SALAD. (Fr.— Salade
de Legumes a la Jardiniere.)
Ingredients. — 1 small cooked cauliflower, 1 small cooked beetroot,
1 small cucumber, 2 or 3 firm cooked potatoes, 2 firm tomatoes, 1 crisp
lettuce, $ of a pint of mayonnaise sauce or salad dressing ( see No. 2449).
Method. — Divide the cauliflower into small sprays, cut the beetroot
and potatoes into fine strips, slice the cucumber and tomatoes. Place
all these ingredients in layers in a salad bowl, piling somewhat high in the
centre, and season each layer with salt and pepper. Pour over the salad
dressing, and garnish with a border of lettuce, previously well washed
and dried.
2401. — MUSHROOM SALAD. (Fr. — Salade aux Cham-
pignons.)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of preserved mushrooms (champignons) sliced,
2 tablespoonfuls of shredded celery, 1 tablespoonful of shredded truffle,
lettuce, hard-boiled eggs, sliced beetroot, mayonnaise No. 201.
Method. — Mix together the mushrooms, celery and truffles, stir in a
little mayonnaise, and pile the mixture on a bed of lettuce. Garnish
with sections of egg and slices of beetroot.
Tarragon (Fr. estragon). — The leaves of this plant, known to naturalists as Artemisia dracunculiis,
are much used in France as a flavouring ingredien t for salads. From it also is made the vinegar known
as tarragon vinegar, which is employed by the French in mixing their mustard. It originally came
from Tartary, and does not seed in France.
2402. — OKRA SALAD.
Ingredients. — Okras, endive, shredded lettuce, salad dressing ( see
recipes for same).
Method. — Boil fresh okras until tender, or, when using tinned ones,
turn them into a stewpan, add a little water, bring to the boil, then drain
and dry. When cold, quarter the okras, arrange them neatly on a bed
of mixed endive and lettuce, pour the salad dressing over, and serve.
RECIPES FOR SALADS, ETC.
1103
2403. — ONION SALAD. (Fr. — Salade d’Oignons.)
Ingredients. — Large mild onions, finely chopped parsley, pepper and
salt, oil, vinegar.
Method. — Peel the onions, cover them with cold water, bring to
boiling point, and drain. Let them remain in cold water for 6 or 7
hours, changing the water repeatedly. Slice thinly, season with salt
and pepper, moisten slightly with vinegar, and more liberally with oil,
sprinkle lightly with parsley, then serve.
2404. — OYSTER AND CELERY SALAD. (Salade de
H nitres.)
Ingredients. — 24 oysters, 1 head of celery parboiled and shredded,
\ a small white cabbage parboiled and shredded, mayonnaise sauce
No. 201, oil, vinegar.
Method. — Blanch the oysters, and let them remain in the water until
they lose their flabbiness. When quite cold, mix the celery and cabbage
together, moisten slightly with oil and vinegar, and turn the mixture
into a salad-bowl. Place the oysters on the top, coat lightly with
mayonnaise, and serve.
2405. — POLISH SALAD. ( Fr . — Salade a la Polonaise.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of finely shredded game or poultry, 4 hard-boiled
eggs, shredded lettuce, endive, oil, vinegar, salt and pepper.
Method.-- Season the game or poultry with salt and pepper, and
moisten slightly with oil and vinegar. Let it stand for 2 or 3 hours,
then arrange neatly on a bed of lettuce, and garnish with tufts of endive.
The yolks of the eggs should be passed through a wire sieve and scattered
over the salad, and the whites sliced and used as a garnish.
2406. — POTATO SALAD. ( Fr . — Salade de Pommes de
Terre.)
Ingredients. — i-J- lb. of small potatoes, -]■ of a lb. of lean bacon, 1 very
small onion finely-chopped, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley,
1 tablespoonful of Mayonnaise sauce (see Sauces), vinegar, salt and
pepper.
Method. — Boil the potatoes in their skins, peel, and slice them whilst
hot. Cut the bacon into dice, fry it until nicely browned, then drain
well from fat, and put it into a basin with the sliced potato and
onion. Season with salt and pepper, stir in the mayonnaise sauce, and
about 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar. Mix carefully so as not to break
the potato, and serve in a salad bowl with the surface sprinkled with the
parsley.
1104
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
2407. — RED CABBAGE SALAD. (Fr — Salade au
Chou rouge.)
c
Ingredients. — A small red cabbage finely shredded, 1 pint of malt
vinegar, 2 tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, 1 tablespoonful of salt, 1 salt-
spoonful of cayenne pepper.
Method. — Mix the ingredients well together, let the salad stand for
2 days, then use.
2408. — ROMAN SALAD. ( Fr . — Salade Romaine.)
Ingredients. — Coss lettuce, finely chopped onion, honey, vinegar.
Method. — Thoroughly wash, trim, and dry the lettuce, separate it
into small pieces, season it with vinegar sweetened to taste with
very little honey, and sprinkle over with onion.
2409. — RUSSIAN SALAD. ( Fr . — Salade Russe, au
Maigre.)
Ingredients. — pints of mayonnaise sauce, 1 small cauliflower, 1
gill of cooked green peas, 1 gill of mixed vegetables (dice of carrot,
turnip, and French beans), 3 new potatoes, 2 tomatoes, 2 gherkins,
1 truffle. For garnishing: shredded smoked salmon, \ inch dice of
hard-boiled white of egg, shredded beetroot, stoned olives, fillets of
anchovy, capers.
Method. — Divide the cauliflower into small sprays, boil them and the
peas, carrot, turnip and beans separately, and drain well. Boil the
potatoes, and when cold cut them into neat strips; cut the tomatoes
into moderately thin slices, shred the gherkins and truffle finely. When
all the cooked ingredients are cold and well drained, arrange them with
the tomatoes, gherkins, and truffle in distinct layers in a salad bowl.
Season each layer with a little salt and pepper, and cover lightly with
mayonnaise sauce, pile the salad high in the centre, and cover the surface
lightly with mayonnaise. Decorate with small groups of shredded
salmon, shredded beetroot, dice of white of egg, olives, capers and
fillets of anchovy. Serve the remainder of the mayonnaise sauce
separately.
Note. — This Salad is frequently prepared in a cylindrical shaped mould with
suitable border. First mask the mould with Aspic, and tastefully decorate
with the available vegetables, as shown in the coloured illustration.
2410. — SALAD, BOILED. (Fr.— Salade de Legumes
Bouillie.)
Ingredients. — French beans cooked and shredded, celery cooked and
shredded, endive blanched, lettuce, salad dressin No. 2444, or 2445.
Method. — Mix the beans and celery together, idd salad dressing to
taste, and garnish with tufts of endive and lettuc
SALADS
4. — Tomato. 5. — Russian,
10. — Salad Dumas.
•Macedoine.
— Lobster.
■Beetroot and Potato. 3.-
. — Prawn. 8. — Egg. 9.
Cucumber. 2. —
6. — Italian. 7.
1
RECIPES FOR SALADS, ETC
1105
2411. — SALAD CHIFFONADE. (Fr.— Salade a la
Chiffonade.)
Ingredients. — Carrot, celery, beetroot, all cooked and cut into julienne
strips, cucumber shredded, lettuce stamped into small rounds, salad
dressing {see recipes for same).
Method. — Toss all lightly in a little salad dressing, and serve.
2412. — SALSIFY SALAD. (Fr. — Salade de Salsifis.)
Ingredients. — Cooked salsify, mayonnaise sauce No. 201.
Method. — Cut the salsify into 2-inch lengths, pile them in a salad-
bowl or dish, coat lightly with mayonnaise, and serve.
2413. — SARDINE MAYONNAISE. (. Fr . — Mayonnaise de
Sardines.) ( See Spanish Sardine Salad, No.
2418.)
Substitute mayonnaise sauce for the vinegar.
2414. — SHAD’S ROE SALAD. ( Fr . — Salade au Frai
d’Elose.)
Ingredients. — 3 cooked shad’s roes, shredded lettuce, endive, beetroot,
mayonnaise, oil, vinegar, salt and pepper.
Method. — Slice the roes thinly, season liberally with salt and pepper,
sprinkle with vinegar, and moisten well with oil. Let them remain
for 2 hours, then place them on a bed of lettuce, coat lightly with
mayonnaise, decorate with tufts of endive and sliced beetroot, then
serve.
2415. — SHRIMP SALAD. ( Fr . — Salade d’Ecrevisses.)
Ingredients. — 1 pint of picked shrimps, 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of mayon-
naise sauce No. 201, sliced cucumber, shredded lettuce.
Method. — Stir the sauce into the shrimps, pile the mixture in a salad-
bowl or dish, garnish with cucumber and lettuce, then serve.
2416. — SORREL SALAD. (Fr.— Salade d’Oseille.)
Follow the same directions as given for preparing Spinach Salad,
Recipe No. 2419.
2417. — SOUR CREAM DRESSING.
Ingredients. — Sour thick cream, salt.
Method. — Stir the cream until smooth, add salt to taste, and use as
required.
no6
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
2418. — SPANISH SARDINE SALAD. (Fr.— Salade de
Sardines a 1’Espagnole.)
Ingredients. — 12 or 14 sardines, 2 tablespoonfuls of capers, 1 crisp
lettuce, stoned Spanish olives, anchovy butter No. 2454, vinegar,
salt and pepper.
Method. — Remove the skin and bones from the sardines, and divide
them into short pieces. Wash and dry the lettuce thoroughly, tear
it into fine shreds, put it into a basin with the sardines and capers,
season with salt and pepper, add a little vinegar, and mix well together.
Arrange the salad in a salad bowl, piling it high in the centre, garnish
with the olives filled with anchovy butter, and serve.
2419. - SPINACH AND EGG SALAD. (Fr.— Salade
d’Epinards aux Oeufs.)
Ingredients. — 1 quart of young spinach leaves, 6 spring onions chopped,
3 or 4 hard-boiled eggs, oil, vinegar, salt and pepper.
Method. — Wash the spinach free from grit, dry it thoroughly, and
mix with it the onions. Add a few drops of vinegar to 1 tablespoonful
of oil, season with salt and pepper, pour it over the spinach, and mix
well. Turn into a salad-bowl, garnish with sections of egg, and serve,
A salad of cooked spinach may be made by pressing the puree into a
mould or moulds, which, when cold, are turned out and garnished
with sections of egg.
2420. — STUFFED TOMATO SALAD. (See Chapter XXX,
Vegetables, Recipe No. 1614.)
2421. — SUMMER SALAD. (Fr. — Salade d’Ete.)
Ingredients. — 2 or 3 lettuces shredded, 2 handfuls of mustard and
cress, 12 radishes sliced, \ a cucumber sliced, salad dressing ( 'see recipes
for same).
Method. — Place a little salad dressing at the bottom of a salad-bowl,
put in the lettuce, etc., and serve when well mixed.
2422. — SWEDISH SALAD. ( Fr . — Salade a la Sued-
oise.)
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. each of cold roast beef, boiled potatoes, firm
apples and pickled herring, all cut into dice, 3 anchovies washed,
filletted, and coarsely chopped, 1 tablespoonful each of chopped
gherkin, capers, hard-boiled egg, tarragon and chervil, 24 turned
olives, 12 oysters, oil and vinegar.
Method. — Mix all but the oysters together, moisten with a little oil
and vinegar, and place the oysters on the top.
RECIPES FOR SALADS, ETC.
1107
2423. — SWEETBREAD AND CUCUMBER SALAD.
(Fr. — Salade de Ris-de-Veau et Concombre )
Ingredients. — A calf’s sweetbread, cooked and thinly sliced, \ of a
cucumber thinly peeled and sliced, lettuce shredded, salad dressing
( see recipes for same), mayonnaise sauce No. 201.
Method. — Toss the lettuce in a little salad dressing, turn it into a
salad-bowl, and arrange the sweetbread on the top, cover lightly with
mayonnaise, garnish with cucumber, and serve.
2424. — SWEETBREAD SALAD. ( See Sweetbread and
Cucumber Salad, No. 2423.)
2425. — SWISS SALAD. (Fr. — Salade Suisse.)
Ingredients. — 3 tablespoonfuls of potato, 2 tablespoonfuls of tongue,
2 tablespoonfuls of beetroot, 2 tablespoonfuls of carrot, 1 tablcspoonful
of apple, all shredded and all cooked except the apple, 1 cooked fresh
herring, finely flaked, salad dressing ( see Recipe 2445 for same).
Method. — Mix all well together, moisten slightly with salad dressing,
and serve piled in a salad-bowl.
2426. — TARTARE SALAD. (Fr. — Salade a laTartare).
Ingredients. — Equal quantities of shredded cold meat, celery and
cooked potato, tartare sauce No. 213, salt and pepper.
Method. — Mix the meat, celery and potato together, sprinkle liberally
with salt and pepper, and stir in a little tartare sauce. Serve garnished
with tufts of endive or sliced beetroot.
2427. — TOMATO SALAD. (Fr. — Salade de Tomates.)
Ingredients. — 6 firm medium-sized tomatoes, 1 teaspoonful of finely-
chopped parsley, 2 teaspoonfuls of salad-oil, 1 tablcspoonful of vinegar,
1 teaspoonful of mixed mustard, salt and pepper.
Method. — Scald the tomatoes in boiling water for 1 minute, drain
on a cloth, and carefully remove the stems and skin. When cool, cut
them into thin slices, and place them in a salad bowl. Put 2 saltspoon-
fuls of salt, and 1 saltspoonful of pepper into a basin, add the mustard,
pour in the vinegar and oil, and mix thoroughly with a wooden spoon.
When ready to serve, add the chopped parsley to the dressing, and pour
it over the tomatoes.
2428. — TOMATO AND CHIVES SALAD. (See Tomato
and Onion Salad, No. 2429.)
Substitute 1 dessertspoonful of finely chopped chives or very
young spring onions for the cooked onion.
no8
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
2429. — TOMATO AND ONION SALAD. (Fr.— Salade
au Tomates.)
Ingredients. — 6 tomatoes sliced, x large onion, salad dressing ( see
Recipe No. 2445 for same).
Method. — Boil or bake the onion until three-parts cooked. When
cold, chop it not too coarsely, sprinkle it over the sliced tomatoes,
add a little salad dressing, then serve.
2430. — TOMATO AND ARTICHOKE SALAD.
(Fr. — Salade d’Artichauts et Tomates.)
Ingredients. — Tomatoes, cooked artichoke bottoms (tinned ones will
serve), mayonnaise sauce.
Method. — Split the artichoke bottoms in halves, and slice the tomatoes.
Arrange neatly in a salad-bowl or dish, pour over a little sauce and
serve.
2431. — TRUFFLE SALAD. (Fr. — Salade aux Truffes.)
Ingredients. — Equal parts of finely-shredded truffles and celery,
cream mayonnaise No. 2440, hard-boiled eggs.
Method. — Mix the truffles and celery together, stir in the mayonnaise,
and pile in a salad-bowl. Garnish with chopped whites and seived
yolks of hard-boiled eggs, and serve.
2432. — TURNIP SALAD. (Fr. — Salade de Navets.)
Ingredients. — Cold boiled turnips, sliced beetroot, salad dressing ( see
Recipe No. 2445 for same).
Method. — Slice the turnip thickly, cut the slices into strips, and pile
them in a salad-bowl. Pour a little salad dressing over them, and
garnish with beetroot.
2433. — VEAL SALAD. (Fr. — Salade de Veau.)
Ingredients. — -J- a lb. of shredded cold veal, shredded lettuce, endive,
1 tablespoonful of capers or chopped gherkin, lemon-juice, salt and
pepper, salad dressing ( see Recipe No. 2445 for same).
Method. — Season the meat with salt and pepper, sprinkle liberally
with lemon-juice, and put it aside for 1 hour. Add the capers and
lettuce, moisten with salad dressing, and serve garnished with tufts
of endive.
2434.— WALNUT AND CELERY SALAD. (See Walnut
and Celery Mayonnaise, No. 2435.)
RECIPES FOR SALADS, ETC.
1109
2435. — WALNUT AND CELERY MAYONNAISE.”
(Fr. — Mayonnaise de Celeri et Noix.)
Ingredients. — 2 or 3 strips of white celery finely shredded, -j- a pint of
peeled walnuts, 2 tablespoonfuls of stiff mayonnaise sauce No. 201,
1 tablespoonful of thick cream, salt and pepper. For garnishing :
watercress or small red radishes.
Method. — Cut the walnuts into small pieces, mix them with prepared
celery, season with a little salt and pepper, and add gradually the
mayonnaise and cream. Dress in a pile on a vegetable dish or a small
flat salad bowl, garnish with a few sprigs of watercress or small radishes,
and serve with roast poultry or game.
2436. — WHITE BEAN SALAD. {Fr.— Salade de
Haricots blancs.) {See Lentil Salad, No. 2396.)
Substitute white haricot beans for lentils, or use Boston baked
beans, usually sold in tins.
2437. — WINTER SALAD. {Fr.— Salade d’hiver.)
Ingredients. — 1 small head of celery, ^ a cooked beetroot, 3 or 4 cold
potatoes, \ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, salad dressing
No. 2445 , salt and pepper.
Method. — Peel and slice the beetroot, slice the potatoes, shred the
celery, but not too finely. Arrange the prepared vegetables in separate
layers, seasoning each layer with a little salt and pepper. Pour over
4 or 5 tablespoonfuls of salad dressing, sprinkle on the parsley, and
serve.
Salad Dressings
2438.— CLARET DRESSING.
Ingredients. — \ of a pint of claret, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, a
clove of garlic, 1 teaspoonful of finely chopped shallots, salt and sugar
to taste.
Method. — Mix all the ingredients together, let the preparation stand
for 6 hours or longer, then strain, and pour it over a salad previously
tossed in a little salad-oil.
4329. — MAYONNAISE SAUCE. (See Sauces, No. 201,)
IIIO
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
2440. — MAYONNAISE COOKED. (Fr. — Mayonnaise
cuite.)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of milk or single cream, \ of a pint of vinegar,
3 yolks of eggs, 1 tablespoonful of salad-oil, 1 tablespoonful of sugar,
1 tablespoonful of salt, 1 dessertspoonful of mustard.
Method. — Mix the oil, sugar, salt and mustard well together in a
basin, add the well-beaten yolks of eggs, next the vinegar, and lastly
the cream or milk. Stand the basin in a saucepan containing sufficient
boiling water to surround it to half its depth, and stir the mixture
over the fire until it acquires the consistency of custard. This dressing,
if tightly bottled, will keep for several days.
Average Cost. — 6d. when made with milk.
2441. — MAYONNAISE, RED. (Fv . — Mayonnaise
Rouge.)
Ingredients. — J a pint of stiff mayonnaise sauce ( see Sauces), J of a
pint of tomato puree, salt and pepper.
Method. — Mix the ingredients smoothly together, and season to
taste.
The Olive and Olive-Oil (Fr. olive). — This tree assumes a high degree of interest from the his-
torical circumstances with which it is connected. A leaf of it was brought into the ark by the dove
when that vessel was still floating on the waters of the great deep, and gave the first token that the
deluge was subsiding. Among the Greeks, the prize of the victor in the Olympic games was a wreath
of wild olive ; and the “ Mount of Olives ” is rendered familiar to our ears by its being mentioned
in the Scriptures as near to Jerusalem. The tree is indigenous in the north of Africa, Syria and Greece,
and the Romans introduced it into Italy. In Spain and in the south of France it is now cultivated ;
and although it grows in England, its fruit does not ripen in the open air. Both in Greece and Portu-
gal the fruit is eaten in its ripe state, but its taste is not agreeable to many palates. To the Indian
shepherd, bread and olives, with a little wine, form a nourishing diet ; but in England olives are usually
only introduced by way of dessert, to destroy the taste of the viands which have been previously
eaten, that the flavour of the wine may be the better enjoyed.
There are three kinds of olives imported to London- the French, Spanish and Italian ; the first
are from Provence, and are generally accounted excellent ; the second are larger, but more bitter;
and the last are from Lucca, and are esteemed the best. The oil extracted from olives, called olive-
oil, or salad-oil, is, with the Continentals, in continual request, many dishes being prepared with it.
With us it is principally used in mixing a salad.
2442. — REMOULADE SAUCE.
Ingredients. — £ a pint of salad-oil, 2 tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar,
1 teaspoonful of made mustard, 1 raw yolk of egg, a few leaves each
of tarragon, burnet, chives, and parsley, 1 saltspoonful of salt, \ of a
saltspoonful of pepper, \ a saltspoonful of castor sugar.
Method. — Blanch the herbs for 1 minute in boiling water, then dry
them well and chop them finely. Put the yolk of egg into a small basin,
add the salt and pepper, stir briskly with a wooden spoon until very
thick, then work in the oil, drop by drop at first, and afterwards more
quickly. A few drops of vinegar should be added at intervals during
the mixing, and when the desired consistency is obtained, the mustard,
herbs and sugar may be stirred in and the sauce used.
Average Cost.— is.
IIII
RECIPES FOR SALADS, ETC.
2443. — REMOULADE SAUCE, INDIAN.
Ingredients. — The yolks of 3 hard-boiled eggs, 3 tablespoonfuls of
salad-oil, 1 tablespoonful of vinegar, 1 teaspoonful of curry paste,
1 teaspoonful of curry-powder, \ a teaspoonful of salt.
Method. — Put the yolks of eggs into a basin, rub them with the back
of a wooden spoon until smooth, then mix in the salt, curry-powder
and paste. Stir the oil in gradually, and as soon as the sauce is per-
fectly smooth and creamy, add the vinegar, drop by drop ; when
thoroughly incorporated, use as required.
Average Cost. — About 9d.
2444. — SALAD DRESSING.
Ingredients. — The yolks of 3 hard-boiled eggs, 4 tablespoonfuls of
salad-oil, 2 tablespoonfuls of Worcester sauce or mushroom ketchup,
2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 1 teaspoonful of made mustard, 1 tea-
spoonful of salt, \ a teaspoonful of pepper.
Method. — Rub the yolks of eggs through a fine sieve, mix with them
the salt, pepper and mustard. Stir in the salad-oil, add the Worcester
sauce and vinegar gradually, and when thoroughly incorporated the
dressing is ready for use. The whites of the eggs should be utilized
for garnishing the salad. The above will be found an excellent dressing
for cold meat salads to be served with cold meat.
Average Cost. — 8d. or qd.
2445. — SALAD DRESSING. (Another way.)
Ingredients. — The raw yolks of 2 eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of salad-oil,
2 tablespoonfuls of thick cream, 4 a teaspoonful of vinegar (preferably
tarragon), 4 a teaspoonful of mixed finely-chopped onion, chervil, salt
and pepper.
Method. — Add the salt and pepper to the raw yolks of eggs, and
stir them with a wooden spoon in a small basin until almost as thick
as butter; add the oil, drop by drop, stirring briskly meanwhile, put
in the cream, tarragon vinegar, chopped chervil, and use.
Average Cost. — About 6d. or 8d.
2446. — SALAD DRESSING. (Another way.)
Ingredients. — 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, 1 tablespoonful of vinegar,
\ a teaspoonful of made mustard, 2 hard-boiled eggs, a saltspoonful
of salt, 4 of a saltspoonful of pepper.
Method. — Bruise the yolks of the eggs with a wooden spoon, add to
them the mustard, salt and pepper, and the cream gradually. When
perfectly smooth add the vinegar, drop by drop, stirring briskly mean-
III2
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
while. If preferred, oil may be substituted for the cream. The
whites of the eggs should be used for garnishing the salad.
Average Cost. — 5d. or 6d.
2447. — SALAD DRESSING. (Another way.)
Ingredients. — J a tablespoonful of boiled potato, 1 tablespoonful of
salad oil or thick cream, a tab'lespoonful of vinegar, 1 saltspoonful
of sugar, 1 saltspoonful of salt, \ of a saltspoonful of pepper.
Method. — Mix the potato, sugar, salt and pepper smoothly together,
add the oil gradually, and when perfectly smooth stir in the vinegar,
drop by drop, and use as required.
Average Cost. — 2d.
2448. — SALAD DRESSING, CREAM.
Ingredients. — 4 tablespoonfuls of cream, 1 tablespoonful of vinegar,
\ a teaspoonful of made mustard, 1 saltspoonful of castor sugar, \ a
saltspoonful of salt.
Method. — Mix the mustard, salt and sugar smoothly together, stir
in the cream, add the vinegar, drop by drop, and use as required.
Average Cost. — 6d.
2449. — SALAD DRESSING, PARISIAN.
Ingredients. — The yolks of 3 hard-boiled eggs, the yolks of 2 raw eggs,
5 tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, 2 tablespoonfuls of thick cream, 1 dessert-
spoonful each of finely-chopped onion, chervil, and chives, 1 teaspoonful
of salt, \ of a teaspoonful of pepper.
Method. — Bruise the hard-boiled yolks of eggs, with a wooden spoon,
mix with them the salt and pepper, add the raw yolks of eggs, and stir
until thick and perfectly smooth. Stir in, drop by drop, first the salad-
oil and then the vinegar, and when ready to use, add the cream, onion,
chervil, and chives. The whites of the eggs should be added to the
salad; the raw whites might be poached, and used as garnishing.
Average Cost. — About is. 6d.
2450. - VINAIGRETTE SAUCE.
Ingredients. — 4 tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, 2 tablespoonfuls of tarragon
vinegar, 1 teaspoonful of chopped pickled gherkin, \ a teaspoonful of
finely-chopped shallots, \ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley,
1 saltspoonful of salt, \ of a saltspoonful of pepper.
Method. — Mix the above ingredients well together, and use as required.
Average Cost. — 8d.
RECIPES FOR SALADS, ETC.
1113
Sandwiches.
245!. — ADELAIDE SANDWICHES.
Ingredients. — Cooked chicken and ham, white bread, curry-butter.
Method. — Cut the chicken and ham into very thin slices, and remove
all skin, gristle, and the greater part of the fat. Prepare some thin
slices of bread, spread with curry-butter No. 2467, add next a slice
of ham, then a layer of chicken, sprinkle lightly with salt, and cover
with bread and butter. Press well to make the parts adhere firmly
together, trim away the crusts, and cut into 4 triangles. Dish neatly
on a folded serviette, and garnish with watercress or parsley.
2452. — ALEXANDRA SANDWICHES.
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of finely-chopped chicken or game. J of a lb. of
finely-chopped ham, 1 tablespoonful of mushrooms cut into dice, 1
tablespoonful of truffles cut into dice, \ an oz. of meat glaze, 1 or 2
sheets of gelatine, brown sauce ( see Sauces, No. 233), salt and pepper,
bread, creamed or watercress butter.
Method. — Put 3 or 4 tablespoonfuls of brown sauce, the glaze and
gelatine into a stewpan, and when the whole is reduced to a liquid
state add the chicken or game, ham, mushroom, and truffles. Season
to taste, stir over the fire until thoroughly hot, then turn into a square
mould. When cold cut into thin slices, place them between slices of
bread and butter, trim the edges neatly, and cut into 4 triangles 01-
squares.
2453. — ANCHOVY AND EGG SANDWICHES.
Ingredients. — 10 anchovies, 3 hard-boiled yolks of eggs, 2 tablespoon-
fuls of grated Parmesan cheese, butter, cayenne, white or brown bread,
curry-butter. No. 2467.
Method. — Wash and bone the anchovies, pound them in a mortar
with the yolks of eggs, cheese, as much butter as is needed to moisten
the whole, and a little cayenne. Prepare some thin slices of bread
and curry-butter, spread half of them with the preparation, cover
with the remainder, and press these well together. Next trim the edges
neatly, and cut them into triangles or any shape preferred. Dish
neatly on a folded serviette or lace paper, and serve garnished with
watercress or parsley.
iii4
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
2454. - ANCHOVY BUTTER. {Fr.— Beurre d’Anchois.)
Ingredients. — J of a lb. of fresh butter, 6 anchovies, Krona pepper.
Method. — Wash and bone the anchovies, pound them in a mortar
until smooth, using a little butter to facilitate the pounding, then rub
them through a fine sieve. Mix with them the rest of the butter, and
add a little Krona pepper to deepen the red hue of the fish. Anchovy
essence or paste may be used instead of anchovies, but the flavour of the
preparation is not nearly so good, although when thus prepared it
answers ordinarily as an adjunct to other substances. Lobster, sar-
dine, prawn, and shrimp butter may be made by pounding the fish until
smooth, adding butter gradually until the preparation is sufficiently
moist to be easily spread. When pungency is desired, it may be
obtained by adding curry-powder and paprika pepper, or cayenne;
and when less highly seasoned preparations are preferred, the mild,
agreea„bly-flavoured Krona pepper should be employed.
2455. — ANCHOVY AND HADDOCK SANDWICHES.
Ingredients. — 6 ozs. of finely-chopped cooked smoked haddock, 2 ozs.
of butter, i-|- ozs. of anchovy paste, cayenne pepper, creamed butter,
or mayonnaise sauce, white or brown bread.
Method. — If possible, pound the fish, butter and anchovy paste in a
mortar until smooth; if not, work them well together, using a wooden
spoon and basin for the purpose. When a smooth soft paste is ob-
tained, season to taste, and spread the mixture on thin slices of bread.
Cover an equal number of slices thickly with creamed butter or mayon-
naise sauce No. 201, and press the parts firmly together. Trim
neatly, cut into circles, squares or triangles, and serve on a folded
serviette garnished with watercress or parsley.
2456. — BEEF SANDWICHES.
Ingredients. — Cold roast beef, tomato, cucumber or cress, mustard or
curry-butter, white bread, salt.
Method. — Spread thin slices of bread with mustard or curry-butter
( see No. 2467), cover \ of them with thinly sliced beef, add slices
of tomato, cucumber, or watercress leaves, seasoned with salt, pepper
and vinegar. Cover with buttered bread, press well together, trim and
cut into squares or triangles. Variety may be obtained by spreading
the bread with creamed butter No. 2465, and adding a thin layer of
horseradish sauce to the beef instead of tomato or cucumber ( see
Sauces).
2457. — BLOATER SANDWICHES.
Ingredients. — 2 or 3 bloaters, butter, pepper and salt, white or brown
bread, watercress-butter.
RECIPES FOR SALADS, ETC.
iii5
Method. — Grill or fry the bloaters, remove all the skin and bone, and
chop them finely. If available, pound them in a mortar until smooth;
otherwise beat well, and add butter until a soft smooth paste is formed.
Pass through a wire sieve, season to taste, spread on thin slices of
bread, and cover with bread coated thickly with watercress-butter
No. 2492. Trim away the crusts, and cut into circles, squares or triangles.
2458. — CAVIAR SANDWICHES.
Ingredients. — Astrakhan caviar, creamed butter, lemon-juice, cayenne
pepper.
Method. — Prepare some thin slices of bread, spread them lightly with
caviar, sprinkle with lemon-juice and a little cayenne. Have ready an
equal number of slices of bread and creamed butter No. 2465, cover,
press lightly together, trim, and cut into square, triangular, or finger-
shaped pieces. These sandwiches may be varied by using lobster,
prawn, or shrimp- butter, any of which flavours combine agreeably
with that of caviar.
2459. CELERY SANDWICHES.
Ingredients. — Very finely shredded celery, cream, salt and pepper,
thin slices of buttered white bread.
Method. — Moisten the celery slightly with cream, season to taste,
place a thin layer between slices of bread and butter, and serve.
2460. — CHEESE SANDWICHES.
Ingredients. — Cheshire or Cheddar cheese, butter, anchovy-essence or
paste, white or brown bread, salt and pepper, cayenne.
Method. — Grate the cheese finely, then either pound or work it until
smooth with a little seasoning, anchovy-essence or paste, and as much
butter as is needed to form the whole into a soft paste. Have ready
some thin slices of bread and butter, spread the cheese preparation on
■Jr of them, cover with the remainder, press well, trim, and cut into the
desired shape.
2461. — CHICKEN MAYONNAISE SANDWICHES.
Ingredients. — Cold cooked chicken or ham, mayonnaise sauce ( see
Sauces, No. 201), watercress, or mustard and cress, farthing rolls.
Method. — Wash and dry the cress thoroughly, and remove the stalks.
Shred the chicken and ham finely, season with pepper, and moisten
with mayonnaise sauce. Scoop the crumb from the rolls, put in a little
of the chicken mixture, add a layer of cress, then a little more chicken
mixture, and replace the lid. Sandwiches of this description are suit-
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1116
able for picnics or any occasion when there is the possibility of the
slices of bread becoming dry. Nearly all the mixtures for spreading
on bread may be used as a filling for rolls.
2462.— CHICKEN SANDWICHES.
Ingredients. — Cooked chicken, cooked ham or tongue, creamed or
watercress butter, 1 large French roll or white bread.
Method. — Select a roll 1 day old, rasp the crust, but do not remove
it, slice thinly, and spread with butter. Shred the chicken and ham
or tongue finely, place a layer between 2 slices of bread and butter,
and press well together. Arrange overlapping each other in a circle
on a folded serviette, and serve garnished with small salad or water-
cress.
2463. -CLENT SANDWICHES.
Ingredients. — Cooked veal or lean pork, pickled gherkins, white bread,
butter, pepper.
Method. — Remove all fat, skin, and gristle from the meat, and cut
it into thin slices; also slice the gherkins as thinly as possible. Prepare
some thin slices of bread and butter, lay on the meat, season with salt
(unless already salted), on the top place slices of gherkin, sprinkle with
pepper and cover with more bread and butter. Press well, trim neatly,
and cut into squares or triangles.
2464. — COD’S ROE SANDWICHES.
Ingredients. — Cod’s roe and liver, brown bread, butter, essence of
anchovy, 1 finely-chopped small onion, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped
parsley, lemon-juice or vinegar, salt and pepper.
Method. — Fry the onion in \ an oz. of butter until lightly browned,
add the roe and liver, cut up small, the parsley and seasoning to taste.
Stir over the fire for a few minutes, then pound, sieve, and spread it
when cold on brown bread and butter. Press well, trim, and cut into
circles, squares or triangles. Dish tastefully, and serve garnished with
watercress or parsley.
2465. - CREAMED BUTTER FOR SANDWICHES.
Ingredients.- — \ a lb. of fresh butter, 1 gill of cream, mustard, salt and
pepper, cayenne.
Method. — Beat the butter to a cream, whip the cream stiffly, then add
it lightly to the butter, and season to taste with mustard, salt, pepper
or cayenne.
RECIPES FOR SALADS, ETC.
1117
2466. — CUCUMBER SANDWICHES.
Ingredients. — 1 large cucumber, creamed butter, white or brown
bread, salad-oil, lemon-juice or vinegar, salt and pepper.
Method. — Peel the cucumber, slice it thinly, season liberally with salt,
drain on a hair sieve for 1 hour, and dry thoroughly. Now put it into
a basin and sprinkle with pepper, salad-oil, lemon-juice, or vinegar,
liberally or otherwise according to taste. Have ready some thin
slices of bread and butter, stamp out some rounds of suitable size, place
slices of cucumber between 2 rounds of bread, and press the parts well
together. Dish slightly overlapping each other in a circle on a folded
serviette, and serve garnished with parsley.
2467.-CURRY BUTTER.
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of fresh butter, 1 heaped teaspoonful of curry-
powder, \ a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, salt to taste.
Method. — Beat the butter to a cream, then stir in the curry-powder
and lemon-juice, and add salt to taste.
2468. — EGG AND CHUTNEY SANDWICHES.
Ingredients. — Hard-boiled eggs, chutney, white or brown bread,
butter.
Method. — Boil the eggs as directed in the following recipe, shred the
whites of the eggs or chop them coarsely, crush the yolks with a wooden
spoon, and add chutney gradually until a moist paste is obtained.
Prepare some thin slices of bread and butter, spread \ of them with
the egg mixture, add a thin layer of white of egg, and cover with more
bread and butter. Press well, trim, and cut into desired shapes.
2469. — EGG AND GHERKIN SANDWICHES.
Ingredients. — 3 hard boiled eggs, 1 or 2 pickled gherkins, butter,
white or brown bread, creamed butter, salt and pepper.
Method. — Boil the eggs for 15 minutes, let them remain in water until
quite cold, then remove the shells, and chop the whites finely. If
available, pound the yolks of the eggs in a mortar with sufficient butter
to form a moist paste. Or, work together in a basin until smooth
and moist, then season to taste with salt and pepper. Spread some
thin slices of bread and butter with the yolk of egg preparation, sprinkle
lightly with chopped white of egg, and add a few very thin strips of
gherkin. Cover with more bread and butter, press well together,
trim off the crusts, and cut into circles, squares, or triangles. Dish
neatly on a folded serviette, or lace paper, and serve garnished with
parsley.
iii8
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
2470. — EGG SANDWICHES.
Ingredients. — Fresh eggs, watercress, or mustard and cress, white or
brown bread, butter, oil, vinegar, salt and pepper.
Method. — Boil the eggs for 1 5 minutes, then crack the shells, and leave
the eggs in water until quite cold. When ready, shell, slice them thinly,
season with salt and pepper, and sprinkle lightly with oil and vinegar
mixed in equal proportions. Let them remain for 1 5 minutes, then turn
them carefully and season and sprinkle as before. Meanwhile wash and
dry the cress thoroughly, and season it with oil, vinegar, salt and pepper.
Cut some thin slices of bread and butter, spread \ of them with the
prepared eggs and the rest with cress, press them firmly together, trim
away the crust, and cut into shape. Dish them neatly on a folded
serviette, garnished with small salad or watercress.
2471. — FOIE GRAS SANDWICHES.
Ingredients. — 1 tin or terrine of foie gras, bread, butter.
Method. — Prepare some thin slices of bread and butter, on of them
spread slices of foie gras, and cover with the remainder. Press the
parts firmly together, trim the edges neatly, and cut them into square,
triangular, or finger-shaped pieces. Arrange them neatly on a da'ntily
covered dish, and garnish with watercress or parsley.
2472. FOIE GRAS SANDWICHES, IMITATION.
Ingredients. — a lb. of calf’s liver, \ of a lb. of bacon, 1 small carrot,
1 small onion, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), salt and
pepper, nutmeg, bread, butter.
Method. — Cut the bacon and liver into small pieces, and slice the
carrot and onion thinly. Fry the bacon for 2 or 3 minutes, then put
in the liver, carrot, onion, herbs, and a good pinch ol nutmeg. Season
to taste with salt and pepper, cook gently for about 10 minutes, then
pound in a mortar until smooth, and rub through a wire sieve. Now
add the butter or cream gradually until a soft paste is obtained, spread
it rather thickly between slices of bread and butter, press well together,
trim, and cut into round, triangular, or finger-shaped pieces. Dish
neatly on a serviette garnished with small salad, watercress, or parsley.
2473. — GREEN BUTTER.
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of fresh butter, \\ tablespoonfuls of finely-chopped
washed parsley, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, anchovy essence
or paste, salt and pepper.
Method. — Beat the butter to a cream, add the parsley, lemon-juice,
and anchovy-essence or paste to taste, season with salt and pepper,
and when thoroughly mixed, use as required.
RECIPES FOR SALADS, ETC.
1119
2474. — GRUYERE CHEESE SANDWICHES.
Ingredients. — Gruyere cheese, white bread, butter, French mustard,
Krona pepper, white pepper.
Method. — Cut thin slices of bread and butter, spread them lightly
with French mustard, cover with thinly-sliced or grated Gruyere cheese,
and season with the 2 kinds of pepper. Cover with more bread and
butter, press firmly together, trim off the crusts, and cut into square,
triangular, or ftnger-shap_d pieces.
2475. — HAM BUTTER.
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of finely-chopped lean cooked ham, 2 ozs. of butter,
1 tablespoonful of thick cream, pepper, cayenne.
Method. — Pound the ham in a mortar until smooth, adding gradually
a little butter. Pass through a fine sieve, work in the cream and the
rest of the butter, season to taste, and use as required.
2476. — MUSTARD BUTTER.
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of fresh butter, 1 teaspoonful of made mustard,
salt.
Method. — Beat the butter to a cream, then mix in the mustard, and
add salt to taste.
2477. — OLIVE SANDWICHES.
Ingredients. — Olives, cream, pepper, thin slices of bread and butter.
Method. — Stone, chop and pound the olives finely, adding a little
cream from time to time. Season to taste with pepper, passthrough
a fine sieve, and spread rather thickly on bread and butter. Cover
with slices of bread and butter, press firmly, trim away the crusts,
and divide them into triangles or squares. Serve garnished with
cress or parsley.
Time. — I hour. Average Cost. — is. to is. 3d. for one small dish.
Seasonable at any time.
2478. — OYSTER SANDWICHES. (Sandwich de
Huitres.)
Ingredients. — 12 oysters finely chopped, }- an oz. of butter, 1 teaspoon-
ful of very fine breadcrumbs, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, } a well-beaten
egg, salt and pepper to taste.
Method. — Stir the ingredients over the fire for a few minutes, then turn
the preparation into a small mould, and, when cold, slice thinly, and
serve between very thin well-buttered browm bread.
1120
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
2479. — POMPADOUR SANDWICHES.
Ingredients. — lotted game, chicken, or meat, cream or creamed
butter, 1 hard-boiled egg, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley,
lobster coral or Krona pepper, aspic jelly, or clarified butter, white
bread.
Method. — Rub the yolk of the egg through a sieve, and chop the white
finely. Reduce the potted meat to a soft paste by means of vigorous
beating and the addition of a little cream or creamed butter, and, if
necessary, add seasoning, and flavour with a few drops of lemon-juice,
anchovy-essence, mushroom ketchup, or other suitable ingredient.
Cut thin slices of bread and butter into rounds about 2 inches in
diameter, place a layer of the preparation between 2 of them, and
press well together. Have ready some cold liquid aspic jelly or clarified
butter on the point of setting, brush the sandwiches over lightly, and
sprinkle an equal number with parsley, white of egg, yolk of egg, and
lobster coral or Krona pepper. Serve tastefully arranged on a folded
serviette or dish paper.
2480. — PRINCESS SANDWICHES.
Ingredients. — 6 ozs. of cooked chicken, 3 ozs. of cooked ham or tongue,
1 tablespoonful of grated cheese, 2 hard-boiled yolks of eggs, oil, vinegar,
mustard, salt and pepper, white bread, butter.
Method. — Chop the chicken and ham finely, pound them in a mortar
with the cheese and yolks of eggs, adding vinegar, mustard, salt and pepper
to taste, and as much oil as is needed to moisten the whole. Place the
preparation between thin slices of bread and butter, press well, trim
neatly, and cut into circles, squares, triangles or fingers, as may be
preferred.
2481. — ROLLED SANDWICHES. (.FV.—Tartines roulees.)
Ingredients. — 6 ozs. of finely-chopped cooked chicken, 2 ozs. of finely-
chopped ham or tongue, 2 tablespoonfuls of mayonnaise sauce ( see
Sauces, No. 201), brown bread.
Method. — Pound the chicken and ham or tongue in a mortar until
smooth, adding a little liquid butter to facilitate the process. Season
to taste, and rub through a fine sieve, then stir in the mayonnaise sauce.
Cut some thin slices of bread and butter, trim off the crusts, spread them
with this preparation, roll up firmly, wrap them lightly in a clean cloth,
and let them remain in a cool place for 1 hour. Dish them daintily
on a folded serviette or lace paper, and serve garnished with small
cress.
2482. — SALAD SANDWICHES.
Ingredients. — Lettuce, watercress, mustard and cress, mayonnaise
sauce, No. 201, white or brown bread, butter, salt.
RECIPES FOR SALADS, ETC.
II2I
Method. — Wash and dry the lettuce and cress thoroughly, then shred
the lettuce finely, remove the stalks from the cress, season with salt,
and mix with the mayonnaise sauce. Place a layer of this preparation
between thin slices of bread and butter, press them well together,
trim away the crusts, and cut into desired shapes.
2483. — SALMON SANDWICHES.
Ingredients. — Cold boiled salmon, prepared cucumber ( see Cucumber
Sandwiches, No. 24 66), mayonnaise or tartare sauce, bread, butter.
Method. — Cover thin slices of bread and butter with salmon separated
into very small flakes, add a thin layer of mayonnaise or tartare sauce,
and on the top place slices of cucumber. Cover with more bread and
butter, press well together, trim, and cut into shape. Other kinds of
fish may be used in this manner, or they may be pounded and passed
through a sieve. Tomato, lettuce, or cress may replace the cucumber,
and any suitable thick sauce may be substitued for the mayonnaise.
2484. — SARDINE AND TOMATO SANDWICHES.
Ingredients. — 1 tin of sardines, 2 hard-boiled yolks of eggs, 2 or 3 firm
tomatoes, lemon-juice or vinegar, salt and pepper, white or brown
bread, butter.
Method. — Skin and bone the sardines, and split them in halves.
Pass the tomatoes and yolks of eggs through a fine sieve, mix with them
a little butter, add the lemon-juice or vinegar, and salt and pepper to
taste. Prepare some fingers of bread, spread them with the tomato
preparation; on the. top place a sardine, and cover with fingers of
bread and butter. Press well together, and dish tastefully on a folded
serviette garnished with parsley.
2485. — SARDINE BUTTER SANDWICHES.
Ingredients. — 1 tin of sardines, 1 or 2 French rolls, butter, lemon-juice,
Krona pepper, white pepper.
Method. — Skin and bone the sardines, rub them through a fine sieve,
add lemon-juice, Krona pepper, and white pepper to taste, and work
them to a soft paste with a little butter. Rasp the rolls well, but do not
remove the crusts; cut them into thin slices, spread them with the fish
preparation, and roll up lightly. If convenient wrap them compactly
in a clean cloth, and let them remain in a cold place for 1 hour before
serving.
2486. — SEFTON SANDWICHES.
Ingredients. — 1 tin of sardines, Cheshire or Cheddar cheese, lemon-
juice or vinegar, pepper and salt, white or brown bread, creamed
butter No. 2465.
O O
1122
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Skin and bone the sardines, pound them with an equal
amount of cheese in a mortar until smooth, adding seasoning and
lemon-juice or vinegar to taste, and as much cream or milk as is needed
to moisten the whole, then rub through a fine sieve. Put a layer of
this preparation between thin slices of bread and butter, press well,
trim, and cut into desired shapes.
2487.— SPANISH SANDWICHES.
Ingredients. — Finely-chopped cooked chicken, anchovies, hard-boiled
yolks of eggs, Spanish olives, brown bread, butter.
Method. — Wash and bone the anchovies, and divide them into small
fillets; rub the yolks of eggs through a sieve, and chop the olives finely.
Cut slices of brown bread and butter into rounds about 2 inches in
diameter, on half of them place fillets of anchovy, add a thin layer of
chopped chicken, and on the top sprinkle a little prepared yolk of egg
and olives. Cover with rounds of bread and butter, press well together,
and dish daintily.
2488.— SPORTSMAN’S SANDWICHES.
Ingredients. — Cold game, chicken or meat, white bread, plain or
creamed butter, Tartare sauce ( see Sauces, No. 213), French mustard.
Method. — Toast some ^--inch slices of bread lightly, split them, and
butter the plain sides. On half of them place thin slices of game,
chicken, or meat, spread on a little tartare sauce seasoned with French
mustard, and cover with more bread and butter. Press well, trim
neatly, and cut into squares. If to be packed, wrap them in lettuce
leaves, and finally in greaseproof paper.
2489.— ST. JAMES’S SANDWICHES.
Ingredients. — Puff-paste, finely-chopped cooked game or chicken,
finely-chopped ham or tongue, cream, butter, lemon-juice, salt and
pepper, 1 egg.
Method. — Roll the paste out to about f of an inch in thickness, and
cut it into oblong shapes inches long and i|- inches wide. Brush
them over with yolk of egg, and bake in a hot oven. While they are
cooking moisten the game or chicken, etc., with a little butter and cream,
add a few drops of lemon-juice, and season to taste with salt and pepper.
When the paste is ready remove the tops with a sharp knife, scoop
out the soft inside, and fill with the preparation. Brush the edges over
with white of egg, replace the tops, and return to the oven for a few
minutes to set the filling and seal the edges. Serve either hot or cold.
RECIPES FOR SALADS, ETC.
1123
2490. — SWEDISH SANDWICHES.
Ingredients. — Cream cheese, \ a gill of mayonnaise sauce ( see Sauces, No.
201), 1 gherkin, 6 olives, 1 teaspoonful of capers, bread, butter, Krona
pepper .
Method. — Chop the gherkin, olives, and capers finely, and mix with
them the mayonnaise sauce. Cut some thin slices of bread and butter,
spread half of them with the preparation, and the remainder with cream
cheese. Press one of each kind well together, arrange them tastefully
on a folded serviette or dish paper, and serve garnished with small salad
or watercress.
2491. — TOMATO SANDWICHES.
Ingredients. — Ripe firm tomatoes, creamed butter, white or brown
bread, lemon-juice or vinegar, salt and pepper.
Method. -Pour boiling water over the tomatoes, let them remain
immersed for 2 minutes, then drain and cover with cold water. Allow
them to become quite cold, dry well, remove the skins and slice thinly.
Season with salt and pepper, and sprinkle with lemon-juice or vinegar,
sparingly or otherwise, according to taste. Have ready some thin
slices of bread and butter, stamp out some rounds of suitable size, place
slices of tomato between 2 rounds of bread, and press well to make the
parts adhere firmly together. Serve on a daintily-covered dish gar-
nished with small salad or watercress.
2492. — WATERCRESS BUTTER.
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of fresh butter, 2 or 3 bunches of watercress,
salt and pepper.
Method. — Remove all the stalks, wash, drain, and dry the leaves
thoroughly, chop them as finely as possible, then work the butter in
gradually, and season to taste. Watercress butter will be found a
great improvement to sandwiches made of such simple substances as
chicken, eggs, etc., the delicate flavour of which would be overpowered
by the addition of more highly seasoned preparations.
PRESERVES, JAMS,
PICKLES, AND STORE
SAUCES
CHAPTER XXXVI
From the nature of vegetable substances, and chiefly from their not passing
so rapidly into a decomposed state as animal substances, the method
of preserving them is somewhat different, although the general prin-
ciples are the same. All the methods of preservation are put in prac-
tice occasionally for fruits and the various parts of vegetables, according
to the nature of the species, the climate, the uses to which they are
applied, etc. Some are dried, as nuts, raisins, sweet herbs, etc.; others
are preserved by means of sugar, as, for example, many fruits whose
delicate juices would be lost by drying; some are preserved by means
of vinegar, and chiefly used as condiments or pickles; a few also by
salting, as French beans; while others are preserved in spirits. We
have in this place to treat of the best methods of preserving fruits.
Fruit is a most important item in the daily dietary; therefore, when we
cannot obtain it fresh, we must have it preserved. It has long been
a desideratum to preserve fruits by some cheap method to keep them
fit for the various culinary purposes, as making tarts and other similar
dishes. The expense of preserving them with sugar is a serious objec-
tion. By most home methods, unless sugar is used in considerable
quantities, the success is very uncertain, and sugar overpowers and
destroys the sub-acid taste so desirable in many fruits ; so that the
tinned and bottled fresh fruits, now so common, though only intro-
duced of recent years, are a valuable addition to our food. Fruits
intended for preservation should be gathered in the morning, in dry
weather, with the morning sun upon them if possible ; they then have
their fullest flavour, and keep in good condition longer than when
gathered at any other time. Until fruit can be used, it should be placed
in the dairy, an ice-house or a refrigerator. In an ice-house it will
remain fresh and plump for several days. Fruit gathered in wet
or foggy weather will soon mildew, and be of no service for pre-
serves unless it is used immediately and very thoroughly boiled, when
1124
RECIPES FOR PRESERVES
1125
it may be made into preserve or jam that will keep, though of course
of inferior quality. There is no mistake more common than to suppose
that any half-ripe or over-ripe fruit is good enough for jam.
Sugar for Preserving. — Of the various kinds of sugar in common use,
the white refined lump is generally sold for preserving, a.nd, indeed,
is the only kind admissible for the more delicate kinds of preserves.
Coarse brown sugar conceals the flavour of any fruit, and the whiter
moist sugar has little sweetening power. Crystallized Demerara makes
good preserves, is very sweet, seldom adulterated, and is less expensive
than lump sugar, so that for common household preserves it is very
suitable. A well-known writer says: “ Sugar-candy is the purest form
of sugar; white loaf sugar comes next; then the pale, dry, large-grained
crystallized sugars; while all the moist sugars are of inferior purity,
invariably containing not only water and uncrvstallizable sugar, but
also mineral and organic compounds. They are not infrequently
infested by a small insect, the sugar-mite, many thousands of
which have been detected in a single pound of brown sugar.” Cane-
sugar and grape-sugar, otherwise known as sucrose and glucose, are
obtained from various sources. Most of the cane-sugar consumed in
England is actually produced from the sugar-cane, but of beet-root sugar
there is much in the market, and in America sugar is produced from the
maple, from maize, and from the “ sugar grass.” From a chemical point
of view they are the same, and from a culinary one nearly so, though
the difference in sweetening power and in crystallization undoubtedly
affect flavours. Grape-sugar abounds in grapes and in many other fruits,
and it may also be manufactured. It does not crystallize as cane-
sugar does, and is not nearly so sweet, so that the admixture of grape
with cane-sugar is an adulteration greatly to the disadvantage of the
purchaser, though in no way unwholesome. Jams made with pure
cane-sugar are apt to crystallize, or become granular; to prevent this
glucose is added. If only a small proportion is used, it can hardly
be considered an adulterant. When a strong solution of sugar is allowed
to solidify slowly and undisturbed, it deposits large crystals, such as
we see in sugar-candy: if it is agitated the crystals are small, as in loaf
sugar. But if the solution is heated up to a certain point it does not
crystallize any more, but settles into a solid transparent mass which
we know as barley sugar, so called because the old confectioners found
that its return to the crystalline condition took place less quickly if
it was boiled in barley water instead of water only. Any acid or muci-
laginous matter helps forward the production of this particular form
of sugar. When sugar is heated to about 400° F. it decomposes, loses
its power of crystallizing and fermenting, and acquires a dark-brown
colour and a bitter flavour. This form of sugar is known as caramel;
when it is heated beyond this stage it becomes burnt and unfit for use.
Syrup for Preserving. — Having secured the most important contribu-
tions to the manufacture of preserves, the fruit and the sugar, the next
1126
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
consideration is the preparation of the syrup in which the fruit is to be
suspended; and this requires much care. In the confectioner’s art
there is a, great nicety in proportioning the degree of concentration
of the syrup very exactly to each particular case; and they know this
by signs, and express it in certain technical terms. But to distin-
guish these properly requires very great attention and coilsiderable
experience. The principal thing to be acquainted with is the fact that,
in proportion as the syrup is longer boiled, the water contained in it
will become evaporated, and its consistency thickened. Great care
must be taken in the management of the fire, that the syrup does not
boil over, and that the boiling is not carried to such an extent as to
burn the sugar. A solution of sugar prepared by dissolving 2 parts
of double-refined sugar in 1 of water, and boiling this a little, affords
a syrup of the right degree of strength, which neither ferments nor
crystallizes. This appears to be the degree called smooth or large
thread, by the confectioners. The syrup employed should sometimes
be clarified, which is done in the following manner: dissolve 2 lbs. of
loaf sugar in 1 pint of water; add to this solution the white of an egg,
and beat it well. Put the preserving-pan upon the fire with the solu-
tion, stir it with a wooden spatula, and, when it begins to swell and
boil up, throw in some cold water to damp the boiling, for, as it rises
suddenly, should it boil over it would take fire, being of a very inflam-
mable nature. Let it boil up again; then take it off, and remove care-
fully the scum that has risen. Boil the solution again, throw in a little
more cold water, remove the scum, and so on for 3 or 4 times succes-
sively, then strain it. It is considered to be sufficiently boiled when
some taken up in a spoon pours out like oil.
Although sugar passes so easily into the state of fermentation, and
is, in fact, the only substance capable of undergoing the vinous stage
of that process, yet it will not ferment at all if the quantity be sufficient
to constitute a very strong syrup; hence, syrups are used to preserve
fruits and other vegetable substances from the changes they would
undergo if left to themselves. Before sugar was in use, honey was
employed to preserve many vegetable productions, but this sub-
stance has now given way to the juice of the sugar-cane.
The fruits that are the most fit for preservation in syrup are apricots,
peaches, nectarines, apples, greengages, plums of all kinds, and pears.
As an example, take some apricots, not too ripe, make a small slit at
the stem end, withdraw the stone, simmer them in water until about
half cooked, and afterwards throw them into cold water. When they
have cooled, take them out and drain them. Put the apricots into the
preserving-pan with sufficient syrup to cover them ; boil up 3 or 4
times, and then skim well ; remove them from the fire, pour them into
an earthen pan, and let them cool till next day. Boil them up 3 days
successively, skimming each time, and they will soon be finished and
in a state fit to be put into pots for use. After each boiling the con-
RECIPES FOR PRESERVES
1127
sistency of the syrup should be noted ; if too thin, it will bear addi-
tional boiling; if too thick, it may be lowered with more syrup of the
usual standard. The reason why the fruit is emptied out of the pre-
serving-pan into an earthen pan is, that the acid of the fruit acts upon
the copper of which the preserving-pans are usually made. From
this example the process of preserving fruits by s)n‘up will be easily
comprehended. The first object is to soften the fruit by blanching or
boiling it in water, in order that the syrup by which it is preserved may
penetrate through its substance.
Fruits Preserved in Syrup. — Any of the fruits that have been preserved
in syrup may be converted into dry preserves, by first draining them
from the syrup and then drying them in a stove or very moderate
oven, adding to them a quantity of powdered loaf sugar, which will
gradually penetrate the fruit, while the fluid parts of the syrup gently
evaporate. They should be dried in the stove or oven on a sieve,
and turned every 6 or 8 hours, fresh powdered sugar being sifted over
them each time they are turned. Currants and cherries may be pre-
served whole in this manner in bunches. Orange and lemon chips
are thus preserved. After being thoroughly dried they should be
stored in air-tight tins in a cool dry place.
Marmalades and Jams differ little from each other: they are preserves
of half liquid consistency, made by boiling the pulp of fruits, and some-
times part of the rinds, with sugar. The term marmalade is applied
to those confitures which are composed of the firmer fruits, as pine-
apples or the rinds of oranges ; whereas jams are made of the more
juicy berries, such as strawberries, raspberries, currants, mulberries, etc.
Jams require the same care and attention in the boiling as marmalade;
the slightest degree of burning communicates a disagreeable empyreu-
matic taste, and if they are not boiled properly they will not keep.
Marmalades and jams are now so cheap that they are within reach of
the poorest. They can also be bought so good that there is little in-
ducement to make them at home rf the fruit has to be bought or is dear.
Nevertheless, it must be confessed that they are seldom both cheap and
good, so that housekeepers who desire both quality and economy, and
are not over-anxious to spare their own trouble, usually prefer them
home-made. To make them successfully a properly constructed pre-
serving pan or maslin-kettle is necessary. Formerly these were com-
posed of solid brass or copper, and formed one of the careful housewife’s
most cherished possessions. They may now be obtained at a compara-
tively trifling cost in enamelled iron, but the objection to their use is
that the syrup boils over more quickly than in a preserving pan made
of copper or brass, and moreover it is more apt to burn and stick to the
bottom of the pan. A long wooden spoon or stick is necessary. The
end to be attained is to boil the juice of the fruit to such a consistency
that it will neither ferment nor mildew. Some persons add a little
water, others put only the fruit in with the sugar. From of a lb.
1128
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
to i lb. of sugar for each lb. of fruit is the usual amount, but \ a lb. is
sometimes enough to preserve the fruit, and if this quantity is sufficient
no more should be used, as jam is often unpleasantly sweet with very
little flavour of the fruit left. The methods employed vary considerably;
sometimes the fruit is boiled a long time and slowly, and the sugar
added towards the end of the process; but more frequently the sugar
is boiled first with a little water, and the fruit added afterwards and
boiled from 20 to 60 minutes.
The latter method is commonly employed in manufactories where
time is money, and it certainly preserves the shape, colour, and flavour
of the fruit better than the former, which, however, has advantages
for some fruits that require long stewing, and for those persons who find
it difficult with the means at their disposal to make the jam boil as
thoroughly and completely as it readily does in the manufacturer’s
pans, heated by steam coil or gas to the exact temperature required.
The pots in which the jam is put must be perfectly dry, and the cup-
board in which they stand neither so warm that the jam ferments,
nor damp so that it becomes mouldy. The housekeeper will do wrell
to remember that mould is a plant sowing itself by multitudes of seeds,
so small that they penetrate the tiniest crack. It spreads, therefore,
readily from one thing to another, and may sometimes lurk unsuspected
on the shelves of a cupboard that is not well cleansed and aired. For-
merly jam was allowed to become quite cold before being covered,
under the erroneous belief that the steam arising from it would, if
confined, produce mould. Now jams, jellies, and marmalades of every
description are covered as speedily as possible, before the escaping
steam loses its power to exclude the air. If air is allowed to enter it
may carry with it bacteria which quickly develop into mould, more
particularly so when the preserved substances happen to be stored
in a warm damp place favourable to the growdh of such organisms.
Fruit jellies are compounds of the juice of fruit and sugar, con-
centrated by boiling to such a consistency that the liquid upon
cooling assumes the form of a jelly. But notwithstanding the resem-
blance in appearance and in name, this jelly, w hich is known as pectin,
is from a chemical and nutritive standpoint entirely different from
gelatine. It is closely allied to gum, and has about the same food value
as the sugar with which it is boiled.
Candied or Glace and Crystallized Fruits. — Before fruit can be subjected
to the final processes by which it is preserved for use in these two forms,
it must first be boiled in syrup. The fruit to be candied or iced is
dried before the fire or in a cool oven, the syrup in which it was cooked
being meanwhile boiled to the “ large blow ” degree (see p. 1070).
When the syrup has cooled a little, the fruit should be dipped into it
until thoroughly coated, and then dried, when they will have a trans-
parent coating. Fruit to be crystallized should, immediately on its
removal from the syrup, be rolled in crushed loaf sugar and after-
RECIPES FOR PRESERVES
1129
wards dried. Flowers, such as violets, orange and rose petals, and
primroses, may be preserved in this way.
Fruit Pastes consist of the pulp of fruits, first evaporated to a proper
consistency, and afterwards boiled with sugar. The mixture is then
poured into a mould, or spread on sheets of tin, and subsequently dried
in the oven or stove until it has acquired the consistency of a paste.
From a sheet of this paste, strips may be cut and formed into any
shape that may be desired, as knots, rings, etc. They are now some-
what out of date.
Pickles. — Pickles may now be purchased in such variety and so
cheaply that very few, save those who grow vegetables they cannot
utilize in any other way, think of preparing them at home. Picldes
consist of vegetables and fruits steeped in vinegar previously boiled
with spices, to which is frequently added salt and sugar, in quantities
varied according to individual taste. The chief pickles are cabbage,
cauliflower, chillies, gherkins, onions, and w'alnuts. Any or all of these,
except cabbage, may be mixed; one variety of mixed pickles, highly
seasoned with mustard, is well known, and often usefully employed as
a dressing for devilled bones, re-heating pork, etc. Indian pickles
form a class by themselves; they arc generally thick and highly spiced,
mangoes forming a general base.
Damsons are more frequently preserved by means of vinegar than
other kinds of fruit, but the method is equally applicable to any unripe
stone-fruit.
To make pickles successfully, the vegetables or fruit must be per-
fectly dry, fresh, and not over-ripe.
Adulteration in Pickles. — Sulphuric acid is often present in vinegar in
larger amount than the law allow's, i.e., 1 part in 1,000, and it is very
injurious to health even in small amount. Good vinegar and un-
adulterated pickles have considerable dietetic value, especially in
large towns and in those houses where fresh fruit and vegetables are
not obtainable all the year round. Pickles sometimes contain copper,
added in order to fix the chlorophyll, or green colouring matter, in the
vegetables. Most authorities consider it poisonous; its presence may
be detected by a coppery tinge imparted to the silver with which it
comes in contact. If available, vinegar should be boiled in an ena-
melled pan, or, failing this, a stewjar placed in a saucepan of boiling
water. If a metal pan must of necessity be used, one made of iron pro-
duces the least injurious effects. Fatal results have followed the use
of copper vessels for pickling purposes.
Vinegar. — The active principle of vinegar is an acid produced by the
secondary fermentation of liquids of vegetable origin. Thus we have
vinegar from malt liquors, from wine, cider, date juice, etc. Com-
mercially, the three chief vinegars are derived from malt, wine and
w’ood.
Malt vinegar is obtained by brewing weak wort. To 100 gallons of
1130
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
this at 70° F. 4 gallons of yeast are added, and stirred for about 10
minutes. It is then allowed to stand for 2 days, and afterwards put
into tubs, covered with canvas and placed in a dark room, which is
maintained at a warm even temperature by means of a stove or stoves.
The tubs are left thus until the wort is converted into vinegar, the
process being usually completed in about 3 weeks, although it can be
hastened by adding a small quantity of grape skins or crushed raisins.
Vinegar is also produced by inducing long fermentation in poor quali-
ties of wines. Cider can also be converted into vinegar by admitting
air into the barrels containing it, and inducing prolonged fermentation.
The acid developed during fermentation is known as “ acetic,” except
that derived from the distillation of wood, which is “ pyroligenous
acid.” This latter variety is somewhat deficient in flavour, but it is
perfectly wholesome, and being cheap is largely employed by those
who make pickles in large quantities.
Store Sauces may be broadly divided into two classes. The first
series comprise such well-known liquid sauces as Worcester, ketch-
up, etc., which have a basis of vinegar and water, while the second
class includes tomato, anchovy and other thick sauces.
RECIPES FOR PRESERVES,
JAMS, PICKLES, ETC.
CHAPTER XXXVII
Preserves, Jams, Pickles, Store Sauces, etc.
Preserves and Jams.
2493. — APPLE AND BLACKBERRY JAM.
Ingredients. — 4 lbs. of apples, 2 lbs. blackberries, 4-J lbs. of preserving
sugar.
Method. — Pick the blackberries, put them into a stewjar with 1 lb.
of sugar, and let them remain thus for at least 12 hours. When ready,
place the jar on the stove or in a cool oven, and stew gently until the
juice is extracted. Pare, core and cut the apples into thick slices.
Put them into a preserving pan, strain in the juice, add the rest of the
sugar, and boil gently from 45 to 50 minutes. Pour into jars, cover
closely, and store in a dry, cool place.
Time. — Altogether, about 14 hours. Average Cost, 4d. per lb.
Seasonable in October.
2494. — APPLE GINGER.
Ingredients. — 5 lbs. of sour cooking apples, 4 lbs. of loaf sugar, 2 ozs.
of whole ginger, J of a teaspoonful of cayenne, 3 lemons, 1 pint of cold
water.
Method. — Peel, core, and cut the apples into quarters. Dissolve
2 lbs. of sugar in 1 pint of water, bring slowly to boiling point, skim
well, and simmer for 8 or 10 minutes. Pour the syrup over the pre-
pared apples, cover, and let it remain thus for 48 hours. When ready,
drain off the syrup into a stewpan, add the remaining 2 lbs. of sugar,
the strained juice, and finely-grated rinds of the lemons, the ginger
bruised and tied in fine muslin, and the cayenne. When boiling, add
the apples, simmer very gently until they are soft, but not broken,
then turn into jars. Cover at once with ready-prepared paper, or
paper brushed over with white of egg, and fasten securely.
Average Cost, 2s. 6d. Seasonable in October.
1131
1132
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
2495. — APPLE GINGER. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of sour cooking apples, 2 lbs. of loaf sugar, -J- anoz.
of extract of ginger, 1^ pints of water.
Method. — Make a syrup of the sugar and water, as directed in the
preceding recipe. Meanwhile peel, core, and cut each apple into 8
sections, add them with the extract of ginger to the syrup, and simmer
gently until soft, but not broken. Turn into jars, cover as directed
in the preceding recipe, and store in a cool dry place.
Average Cost, is. to is. 3d. Seasonable in October.
2496. — APPLE JAM.
Ingredients. — To each lb. of fruit, weighed after being pared, cored
and sliced, allow f of a lb. of preserving sugar, the finely grated rind
of 1 lemon, the juice of \ a lemon.
Method. — Choose firm, sound apples of the same kind; peel, core, and
cut them into thick slices. Barely cover the bottom of a large stewjar
with cold water, add a good layer of sliced apples, cover thickly with
sugar, and sprinkle with lemon-rind and lemon-juice. Repeat until
all the materials are used, cover the jar closely, place it on the stove
or in a moderate oven, in a tin half full of boiling water, and stew
gently until the apples are tender. If the preparation appears rather
dry it may at once be put into the pots; if not, the lid must be removed,
the stewjar taken out of the water and placed on the stove, and the
contents boiled and stirred until the greater part of the moisture has
evaporated.
Time. — From 2\ to 3 hours. Average Cost, 4d. per lb. Seasonable
in October.
2497. — APPLE JAM. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 4 lbs. of sour cooking apples, 3 lbs. of preserving sugar,
the finely-grated rind and juice of 2 lemons, 1 saltspoonful of ground
cinnamon, £ of a pint of cold water.
Method. — Pare, core and cut the apples into thick slices. Place them
in a preserving-pan, add the sugar, lemon-rind and juice, cinnamon and
water, and cook gently until reduced to a pulp. During the first part
of the process stir occasionally, but towards the end, when the greater
part of the moisture has evaporated, stir more frequently to prevent
the preparation sticking to the bottom of the pan. Pour into jars,
at once cover closely, and store in a cool dry place. This jam will
not keep for so long a time as that made according to the preceding
recipe.
Time. — From 40 to 50 minutes. Average Cost, is. 8d,
RECIPES FOR PRESERVES
ii33
2498. APPLE JELLY. (Fr. — Gelee aux Pommes.)
Ingredients. — 10 lbs. of apples, 10 pints of water; to each pint of liquid
obtained from these allow 1 lb. of sugar and the juice of 2 lemons.
Method. — Rub the apples well with a dry cloth, but do not pare them.
Cut them into quarters, remove the cores, and put them into a preserving
pan with the sugar. Simmer until perfectly soft, but not broken,
then strain off the liquid without squeezing the pulp. If not clear,
pass through a jelly-bag or clean dry cloth, until it becomes so. Add
sugar and lemon-juice in the proportion stated above, and simmer gently
until a little, poured on a cold plate, almost immediately begins to
stiffen. Pour into pots or glasses, cover closely, and store in a cool
dry place.
Time. — From 25 to 30 minutes, after straining. Average Cost, from
4s. 6d. to 5s.
Note. — The apple pulp should be sweetened, flavoured with ginger or
cinnamon, and made into jam.
2499. — APPLE JELLY. (Another way.)
Ingredients. — To 6 lbs. of apples allow 3 pints of water ; to every quart
of juice allow 2 lbs. of loaf sugar and the juice of \ a lemon.
Method. — Pare, core and cut the apples into slices, and put them into
a jar, with water in the above proportion. Place them in a cool oven,
with the jar well covered, and when the juice is thoroughly drawn and
the apples are quite soft, strain them through a jelly-bag. To each
quart of juice allow 2 lb. of loaf sugar, which should be crushed to small
lumps and put in the preserving-pan with the juice. Boil these to-
gether for rather more than \ an hour, remove the scum as it rises,
add the lemon-juice just before it is done, and put the jelly into pots
for use.
Time. — To boil after straining, about \ an hour. Average Cost, 2s. 9d.
2500. — APPLE MARMALADE.
Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of apples, 4 ozs. of sugar, 1 oz. of butter.
Method. — Peel, core and quarter the apples, place them in a jar
with the sugar and butter, and stand the jar in a saucepan containing
boiling water, or, when more convenient, in a cool oven. Cook until
soft, pass through a fine sieve, and use for filling turnovers, or other
kinds of pastry.
Time. — hours. Average Cost, 2d. to 3d. per lb. Seasonable at
any time.
2501. — APPLES IN QUARTERS, TO PRESERVE.
Ingredients. — 8 lbs. of apples, 6 lbs. of sugar, 6 pints of water, the juice
of 4 lemons.
Method. — Peel, quarter and core the apples. Place the apple-peeling
and cores in the water, add the sugar, simmer gently for 25 minutes,
H34
HOUSEHOI.D MANAGEMENT
and strain until clear. Replace the syrup in the pan, add the apples
and lemon-juice, and simmer gently until the apples are tender, but
not broken. Place them in jars or wide-necked bottles, pour the
syrup over them, and cover the preparation so as to completely exclude
the air. Store in a cool, dry place.
Time. — About 50 minutes. Average Cost, 3s. yd.
2502. — APRICOT JAM OR MARMALADE.
Ingredients. — Equal weight of firm, ripe apricots and fine preserving
sugar.
Method. — Skin the apricots carefully, break them in halves and
remove the stones. Weigh the fruit, and allow an equal amount
of sugar. Pile the apricots on a large dish, sprinkle each layer with
sugar, let them stand for 12 hours, and meanwhile remove the kernels
from the stones and blanch them. When ready, place the fruit, sugar
and kernels in a preserving-pan, simmer very gently, skimming mean-
while, and as the pieces of apricot become clear remove them from the
syrup and place them at once in the pots. Pour on the syrup and
kernels, cover with pieces of paper dipped in salad-oil, and stretch
over the tops of the jars tissue paper, brushed over with white of egg.
When dry, the cover will be perfectly hard and air-tight.
Time. — 12 hours, sprinkled with sugar. Average Cost, iod. to is.
per lb.
2503. — APRICOT JELLY. (Fr.—Ge lee d’Abricot.)
Ingredients. — Ripe apricots. To each lb. of fruit, weighed after the
stones and skins are removed, allow 1 lb. of preserving sugar and the
juice of 1 lemon.
Method. — Remove the skins, break the apricots in halves, and blanch
the kernels. Weigh the fruit, put it into a preserving-pan with an
equal amount of sugar, and add the prepared kernels and lemon-juice.
Simmer gently, stir frequently until reduced to the consistency of
thick marmalade, then pour into small pots. Cover first with paper
moistened with salad-oil, and afterwards with tissue paper brushed
over with white of egg; store in a dry cool place.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, iod, to is. per lb.
2504. — APRICOTS, TO DRY. (See Greengages, To
Preserve Dry, No. 2554,)
2505. — BARBERRIES IN BUNCHES.
Ingredients. — 1 pint of syrup, barberries.
Method. — Prepare some small pieces of clean white wood, 3 inches
long and \ of an inch wide; tie the fruit to these in nice bunches. Have
ready some clear syrup, Recipe No. 2599 ; put in the barberries,
and simmer them in it for \ an hour on two successive days, and
RECIPES FOR PRESERVES
1135
covering them each time with the syrup when cold. When the fruit looks
perfectly clear it is sufficiently done, and should be stored away in pots,
with the syrup poured over. Or, if preferred, the berries may be candied
(see Cherries Dried, No. 25 17, and Greengages, to Preserve Dry, No. 2554).
Time. — §- an hour to simmer, each day.
2506. — BARBERRY JAM.
Ingredients. — Equal quantities of barberries and preserving sugar.
Method. — Put the sugar and fruit into a preserving-pan and bring
slowly to boiling point. Boil gently for about 15 or 20 minutes, skim-
ming well and stirring frequently, pour into small pots, cover closely,
and store in a cool, dry place.
Time. — From 15 to 20 minutes, after boiling point is reached. Average
Cost, 4d. to 5d. per lb.
2507. — BARBERRY JELLY.
Ingredients.— Equal quantities of ripe barberries and loaf sugar.
Method. — Wash the berries in cold water, and put them into a jar
with a close-fitting lid, place the jar on the stove or in a moderate oven,
in a tin \ full of boiling water, and simmer gently for about 2 hours.
Strain the juice into a preserving-pan, to each pint add 1 lb. of
sugar, and bring to boiling point. Boil for about 10 minutes, removing
the scum as it rises, then pour into small pots. Cover at once with
paper brushed over with white of egg.
Time. — Altogether about 2 hours. Average Cost, barberries from qd.
to 5d. per pint.
2508. — BEETROOT PRESERVED.
Ingredients. — To each lb. of beetroot allow \ a lb. of preserving sugar,
the juice of \ a lemon, and the finely grated rind of of a lemon.
Add vanilla pod and stick cinnamon to taste.
Method. — Peel the beetroots, put them into a preserving-pan with
water to barely cover them, and boil them gently for about 20 minutes.
Add the sugar and flavouring ingredients, continue -the cooking until
the beetroots are quite tender, then drain them from the syrup, cut
them into convenient lengths, and place them in jars of suitable size.
Boil the syrup rapidly until it is quite thick, skimming when necessary
meanwhile, and pour it into the jars. Cover closely, so as to com-
pletely exclude the air, and keep in a cool, dry place.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, 3d. per lb.
2509. — BLACKBERRY JAM.
Ingredients. — Blackberries, half their weight in sugar.
Method. — Boil the blackberries and sugar together for 40 minutes.
Cover closely, and keep in a dry, cool place. The jam will be less
insipid if a little lemon-juice is added.
Time. — 40 minutes. Average cost, blackberries, 3d. to 3d. per lb.
1136 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
2510. — BLACK CURRANT JAM.
Ingredients. — To each lb. of fruit allow 1 lb. of loaf sugar, and of a
pint of water.
Method. — Remove the fruit, which should be ripe and perfectly dry,
from the stalks, put it into a preserving-pan with the water, bring to
boiling point, and simmer gently for 20 minutes. Add the sugar,
and boil for about \ an hour from the time the jam re-boils, or until
a little almost immediately sets when tested on a cold plate. To-
wards the end of the process the jam must be stirred almost continu-
ously, to prevent it boiling over or sticking to the bottom of the pan.
Pour into pots, at once cover closely, and store in a cool, dry place.
Time. — :From 50 to 60 minutes. Average Cost, 4d. or 5d. per lb.
2511. — BLACK CURRANT JAM. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — To each lb. of fruit allow f of a lb. of sugar.
Method. — Put the fruit and sugar into a preserving-pan, let it stand
by the side of the fire until some of the juice is drawn out of the fruit
and the sugar is dissolved, then bring to boiling point, stirring occa-
sionally meanwhile. Boil gently for about 40 minutes, test a little
on a plate; if it stiffens pour at once into jars, and cover closely. This
jam, if made of sound, dry fruit, and stored in a cool, dry place, will
keep for a great length of time.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 4d. to 5d. per lb.
2512. — BLACK CURRANT JAM. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 8 lbs. of black currants, 4 lbs. of rhubarb, 8 lbs. of preserv-
ing sugar.
Method. — Remove the stalks, pick out the best and finest fruit, place
about 6 lb. of it on a large dish between layers of sugar, and let it
remain for 24 hours. Put the remainder of the currants into a large
jar, add the rhubarb, previously peeled and cut into short lengths,
and cook in a slow oven or in a saucepan of boiling water until all the
juice is extracted. Of this juice, take not less than ij pints and not
more than 2 pints, put it into a large earthenware pan or bowl, add the
fruit and sugar, and let the whole stand for 24 hours longer. At the
end of this time strain the juice into a preserving-pan, bring to boiling
point, add more sugar if necessary, and boil for about 10 minutes.
Now add the fruit, boil gently for 20 minutes, skimming when necessary,
then turn the jam into pots, cover closely, and store in a cool, dry
place.
Time. — Altogether, 2 days. Average Cost, 8d. per lb.
2513. — BLACK CURRANT JELLY.
Ingredients. — Black currants, preserving sugar.
Method. — Remove the stalks, put the currants into a jar placed
RECIPES FOR PRESERVES
ii37
in a saucepan of boiling water, and simmer until their juice is extracted.
Strain the juice into a preserving-pan, to each pint add £ of a lb. of
sugar, and boil gently until the jelly stiffens, when a little is tested on
a cold plate. Pour into small pots, cover with paper brushed over
with white of egg, fasten securely so as to exclude the air, and store
in a cool, dry place.
Time. — About i|- hours. Average Cost, is. 3d. per lb.
2514. — CARROT AND BEETROOT JAM.
Ingredients. — Equal weights of carrots and beetroot, sugar, lemons.
Methol. — Wash the beetroot, scrape the carrots, and boil them
separately until tender. Pass through a coarse sieve, measure the
puree, and to each pint allow 12 ozs. of sugar and the juice of 2 lemons.
Place the whole in a preserving pan, boil gently for ^ an hour, and turn
the preparation into pots. If intended to be kept some time, a glass
of brandy should be added to each pint of jam before putting it into
the pot. Keep closely covered in a dry, cool place.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average cost, about 5d. per lb.
2515. — CARROT JAM.
Ingredients. — Young carrots. To each lb. of the prepared pulp allow
1 lb. of preserving sugar, the strained juice of 2 lemons, and the tinely
grated rind of 1 lemon, 6 finely-chopped bitter almonds, 2 tablespoonfuls
of brandy.
Method. — Wash and scrape the carrots, cut each one into 3 or 4 pieces,
place them in a preserving-pan with barely sufficient water to cover
them, and simmer gently till tender. Drain well, pass through a fine
sieve, weigh the pulp, and replace it in the preserving-pan with an
equal wreight of sugar. Bring slowly to boiling point, boil for 5 minutes,
stirring and skimming frequently. When cool, add the almonds,
brandy, lemon-juice and rind, turn into small pots, cover closely, and
store in a cool, dry place. If the brandy be omitted the jam wall not
keep.
Time. — From 50 to 60 minutes. Average Cost, about 3d. per lb.
2516. — CARROT JAM. (Imitation Apricot.')
Ingredients. — Equal weights of carrots and sugar. To each lb. of
carrots allow 1^ tablespoonfuls of brandy, the juice of 2 lemons, the
thin rind of 1 lemon, 12 sweet almonds blanched and quartered.
Method. — Scrape and slice the carrots, barely cover them with cold
water, simmer slowly until tender, then drain well and pass them
through a fine sieve. Replace in the pan, add the sugar, almonds and
lemon-juice, boil up, simmer gently for 15 minutes, and stir in the
1138
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
brandy. Turn into pots, cover with bladder, and store in a dry, cool
place. Unless the brandy is added the jam will not keep.
Time. — From 50 to 60 minutes. Average cost, about 5d. per lb.
2517. — CHERRIES DRIED.
Cherries may be put into a slow oven and thoroughly dried before
they begin to change colour. They should then be taken out of the
oven, tied in bunches, and stored away in a dry place. In the winter
they may be cooked with sugar for dessert, the same as Normandy
pippins. Particular care must be taken that the oven be not too hot.
Another method of drying cherries is to stone them and put them into
a preserving-pan, with plenty of loaf sugar strewed among them.
They should be simmered till the fruit shrivels, then they should be
strained from the juice. The cherries should then be placed in an oven
cool enough to dry without baking them. About 5 ozs. of sugar will
be required for 1 lb. of cherries, and the same syrup may be used again
to do another quantity of fruit.
2518. — CHERRY JAM.
Ingredients. — Sound, ripe cooking cherries, an equal quantity of
preserving sugar; to each lb. of fruit allow |r of a pint of red-currant
juice or water, or the two mixed in any proportions that may be con-
venient.
Method. — Remove the stones, keeping the cherries as whole as possible,
and preserve the kernels. Put the red currant juice or water into a pre-
serving-pan with the sugar, and boil to a syrup. Add the cherries
and kernels, and simmer gently until the cherries are tender, but not
broken, and the juice jellies almost immediately when a little is poured
on a cold plate. Pour into jars, cover with paper dipped in brandy,
and stretch over the top tissue paper brushed over with white of egg.
Store in a cool, dry place.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, about 8d. per lb.
2519. — CHERRIES, TO PRESERVE.
Ingredients. — Sound, ripe cooking cherries. To each lb. allow I a lb.
of preserving sugar and 7j- of a pint of water.
Method. — Remove the stones carefully, keeping the fruit as whole as
possible. Boil the sugar and water to a syrup, add the cherries, simmer
them gently for 15 minutes, then turn both fruit and syrup into a large
basin, and put aside until the following day. Strain the syrup into a
preserving-pan; to each pint add from 4 to 6 ozs. of sugar, according
to taste, bring to boiling point, skim well, then put in the fruit and
simmer gently for about to minutes. Pour into jars, cover at once
With paper dipped in brandy, stretch tissue paper brushed over with
RECIPES FOR PRESERVES
1139
white of egg on the top, and fasten down securely. Store in a cool,tlry
place.
Time. — Altogether, about 26 hours. Average Cost, 8d. or qd. per lb.
Note. — The flavour may be considerably improved by substituting the juice
of either red or white currants for the water.
2520. — CITRON MARMALADE. ( See Lemon Marma-
lade, No. 2555.)
2521. — CRAB APPLE JELLY.
Ingredients. — 4 lbs. of crabapples (Siberian crabs), 4 pints of water,
6 cloves, 1 inch of ginger, 1 lb. of sugar to each pint of strained
liquid.
Method. — Halve the crabapples with a silver knife. Place them
in the water, add the cloves and ginger, simmer until tender, then drain
well, but do not squeeze the apples. Replace the drained liquid
in the pan, add the sugar, boil until the syrup jellies quickly when
tested on a cold plate, then pour into small jars or glasses. Cover
securely with parchment, and store in a cool, dry place.
2522. — CURRANT AND RASPBERRY JAM. (See
Raspberry Jam, No. 2588.)
2523. — CURRANTS, BOTTLED. (See Damsons,
Bottled, No. 2526, and Gooseberries, Bottled,
No. 2539.)
2524. — CURRANTS, SPICED. ( See Plums Spiced,
No. 2582.)
2525. — DAMSONS, BAKED, FOR KEEPING.
Ingredients. — To each lb. of fruit allow \ a lb. of sugar, mutton suet.
Method. — Fruit for preserving in this manner should be perfectly
sound, and not over-ripe. Remove the stalks, but not the stones;
place the fruit and sugar in a large stewjar in alternate layers, cover
closely, and bake in a very cool oven until the plums are tender. Pack
the plums closely in large jars, pour the syrup over, and when quite
cold cover with white paper cut to the size of the jar. Have ready some
mutton suet melted, but on the point of setting, pour it into the jars
to the depth of about \ an inch, stretch pieces of bladder or paper
brushed over with white of egg over the jars, and fasten them securely.
If stored in a cool, dry place the fruit will keep good for 3 or 4 months.
Time. — From 4 to 5 hours. Average Cost, 4d. per lb.
1140
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
2526. — DAMSONS, BOTTLED.
Ingredients. — Damsons, sugar.
Method. — Remove the stalks but not the stones, place the fruit in
wide-necked glass bottles, and tie a piece of bladder securely over
the top of each one. Cover the bottom of a large boiling pot with a
thin layer of straw, stand the bottles side by side on the top of it, and
surround them with cold water. Bring slowly to boiling point, then
remove the boiling-pot from the fire, but let the bottles remain in it
until the contents are perfectly cold. Before storing them remove
the bladder., fill the mouths of the bottles with sugar, and cork with
tight-fitting corks. Cover with melted wax, and store in a cool, dry
place.
Time. — Altogether, about 12 hours. Average Cost, 4d. per lb.
2527. — DAMSON CHEESE.
Ingredients. — Damsons, preserving sugar.
Method. — Remove the stalks and put the fruit into a large jar or stew-
pot. Cover closely, cook in a very slow oven until perfectly soft, then
rub through a fine sieve. Measure the pulp, and put it into a preserving-
pan with the addition of 12 or 16 ozs. of sugar to each pint of pulp,
according to individual taste. Boil until the greater part of the syrup
has evaporated and the pulp has become rather stiff, stirring frequently
at first and almost continuously towards the end of the process. Turn
into small jars, cover closely, and store in a cool, dry place. If liked,
the stones may be cracked and the kernels added to the puree with the
sugar.
Time. — From 6 to 7 hours. Average Cost, 8d. per lb.
2528. — DAMSON CHEESE. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — Damsons, preserving sugar.
Method. — After removing the stalks, put the fruit into a large jar
placed in a boiling-pot of cold water, and cook until perfectly soft.
Now take away the stones, pour off some of the juice, which should
afterwards be converted into damson jelly, and add from 6 to 8 ozs.
of sugar to each lb. of fruit. Continue the slow cooking for 2 hours
longer, then turn the whole into a preserving-pan, and boil rapidly
for about I,- an hour, meanwhile stirring continuously. Turn into small
pots, cover closely, and store in a cool, dry place.
Time. — From 6 to 7 hours. Average Cost, 7d. to 8d. per lb.
2529. — DAMSON JAM.
Ingredients. — To each lb. of fruit allow from f lb, to 1 lb. of preserv-
ing sugar, according to taste.
RECIPES FOR PRESERVES
1141
Method. — Remove the stalks, put the fruit and sugar into a preserving-
pan, let it stand by the side of the fire until some of the juice is ex-
tracted, then bring slowly to boiling-point, occasionally stirring mean-
while. Boil gently for about 45 minutes, or until the syrup, when
tested on a cold plate, stiffens readily. Pour into pots. Cover with
paper brushed over with white of egg.
Time. — About 1 J hours. Average Cost, qd. to qd. per lb.
2530. — DAMSON JAM. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — To each lb. of fruit allow 1 lb. of sugar.
Method. — Remove the stalks, put the fruit into a preserving-pan,
let it stand by the side of the fire until a little of the juice is extracted,
then boil them for \ an hour. Now add the sugar gradually, and boil
for 20 minutes longer, reckoning from the time the jam re-boils. It
must be frequently stirred, and, if preferred, some or all the stones
may be removed before turning the jam into the pots. Cover closely
with paper brushed over with white of egg.
Time. — About ijj- hours. Average Cost, from 4d. to 5d. per lb.
2531. — DAMSON JELLY.
Ingredients. — Damsons, preserving sugar.
Method. — The fruit must be firm, dry and ripe. Remove the stalks,
put the fruit into a large jar or stewpot, cover closely, place it in a
boiling-pot of cold water, and cook very slowly until the plums are
perfectly tender. Strain the juice through a jelly-bag, or fine cloth
into a preserving-pan, add from 8 to 10 ozs. of sugar to each pint of
juice, and boil until the jelly sets quickly when tested on a cold plate.
Pour into pots, cover closely with paper brushed over with white of
egg, and fasten securely so as to exclude the air. Store in a cool, dry
place.
Time. — Altogether, from 6 to 7 hours. Average Cost, 9d. to iod.
per lb.
Note. — The fruit from which the juice has been extracted may be converted
into damson cheese (see No. 2527 and following recipes).
25 32. — DAMSON PRESERVE. (See Damson Jam,
No. 2530.)
2533. — DAMSONS (OR ANY PLUMS), TO PRESERVE.
Ingredients. — Damsons, or other plums, suet.
Method. — Let the fruit be dry and sound. Place it in wide-necked
jars, cover completely with boiling water, and pour over a good layer
of melted mutton suet. Cover with parchment, to completely exclude
the air. The fruit will keep a considerable time, and when required
for use, the water should be poured off, and the jelly at the bottom
of the jar used to improve the flavour of the fruit.
1142
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
2534.— DAMSONS, PRESERVED.
Ingredients. — To each lb. of fruit allow \ a lb. of preserving sugar.
Method. — Fruit for preserving in this manner should be dry, perfectly
sound and ripe. Remove the stalks, place the fruit and sugar in layers
in a large jar, stand the jar in a large boiling-pot of cold water, and
simmer until the plums are quite tender but not broken. Cool slightly,
then drain the juice into a preserving-pan or large stewpan, and boil
rapidly for 20 minutes. Meanwhile place the fruit in pots, and when
ready, pour the syrup over them. Cover with paper brushed over
with white of egg, fasten down securely so as to completely exclude
the air, and store in a cool, dry place.
Time. — From 2J to 3 hours. Average Cost, qd. or 5d. per lb.
2535- —FIGS, TO PRESERVE.
Ingredients. — Green figs. To each lb. allow 1 lb. of sugar and \ a pint
of water, brine that will float an egg.
Method. — Make a slit across the top of each fig, cover them with brine,
and let them remain for 8 days. Drain well, boil gently in a little water
until quite tender, then drain again and cover with cold water. Change
the water daily for 3 days, and on the third day have ready a syrup
made of the sugar and water in the proportions given above. Boil the
figs in the syrup for 10 minutes, repeat the process daily for 3 or 4
days, until the figs are tender and green. Place them in jars or bottles,
add the syrup, cover closely, and store in a dry, cool place.
2536.— FRESH FRUIT, TO BOTTLE. ( See Damsons,
Bottled, No. 2526, and Gooseberries, Bottled,
No. 2539.)
2537-— FRESH FRUIT, TO BOTTLE, WITH SUGAR.
Allow 4 ozs. of preserving sugar to each quart of fruit, and follow the
directions given under Damsons, Bottled, No. 2526, and Gooseberries,
Bottled, No. 2539.
2538.— GINGER, IMITATION OF.
Ingredients. — 24 sticks of well-grown rhubarb or a corresponding
quantity of stalks of lettuce going to seed, sugar, ginger.
Method. — Remove the outside stringy part, and cut the stalks into
2-inch lengths. Put them into a preserving-pan with 4 pints of cold
water, 1 lb. of preserving sugar, and 1 heaped tablespoonful of ground
ginger. Bring slowly to boiling point, simmer for 20 minutes,
then turn the whole into an earthenware vessel. On the following day
drain the juice into the preserving-pan, when boiling, add the stalks,
and simmer gently for \ an hour. Repeat this process on the two
RECIPES FOR PRESERVES
ii43
following days, then drain the stalks and weigh them. To each-lb.
allow l-l- ozs. of ground ginger, 1 lb. of loaf sugar, and ij pints of cold
water. Boil these together to the “ large thread” degree {see No. 2266),
and pour the syrup over the stalks. When cold, put the preparation
into jars, cover closely, and store in a cool, dry place for about 3 weeks,
when it will be ready for use.
Time. — Altogether, 3 days. Average Cost, 3d. or qd. per lb.
2539. — GOOSEBERRIES, BOTTLED.
Ingredients. — Firm, sound, unripe green gooseberries.
Method. — Head and tail the gooseberries, put them into wide-necked
glass bottles, and wrap a little hay or straw round each bottle. Put
a thin layer of the same on the bottom of a large boiling-pot, stand the
bottles on the top of it, and surround them to at least f- of their depth
with cold water. Bring the water slowly to boiling point, then remove
the pan from the fire, but allow the bottles to remain in it until the
gooseberries begin to rise in them. Now add to each one a little boiling
water, cork with new corks, and cover the bottles with bladder. Place
them on their sides in a cool, dry place. When using the fruit, sugar
or syrup must be added according to taste.
Time. — Altogether, about 1 hour. Average Cost, 2d. per pint.
2540— GOOSEBERRIES, BOTTLED. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — Firm, sound, green gooseberries. To each lb. allow
x lb. of loaf or granulated sugar and \ a pint of water.
Method. — Head and tail the gooseberries, cover them with cold water,
simmer slowly until tender, but unbroken, then drain well, and put
them into cold water. Dissolve the sugar in the water, boil to a syrup,
then let it become quite cold. Drain the gooseberries well, put them
into the cold syrup, bring to boiling point, boil gently for 10 minutes,
then turn the whole into an earthenware bowl. Next day drain the
syrup into a preserving-pan or large stewpan, boil it to the “ large
thread” degree {see No. 2266), then put in the fruit and boil gently for
10 minutes. Turn into hot, dry bottles, cork securely with new corks,
and cover the tops of them with bladder. Store in a cool, dry place.
Time. — Altogether, 2 days. Average Cost, qd. per lb.
2541.— GOOSEBERRY AND CURRANT JAM.
Ingredients. — 6 lbs. of red hairy gooseberries, 4 lbs. of preserving
sugar, 3 pint of currant juice {see Red Currant Jelly, No. 2591 ).
Method. — Head and tail the gooseberries, put them into a preserving-
pan, and allow them to stand by the side of the fire until some of the
juice is extracted. Bring to boiling point; when the gooseberries have
boiled for 10 minutes add the sugar gradually, put in the red currant
H44
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
juice, and boil until the jam sets when tested on a cold plate. The
scum must be removed as it rises, and the jam should be well stirred
towards the end of the boiling process. When ready pour into pots,
cover closely, and store in a cool, dry place.
Time. — From if- to 2 hours. Average Cost, 3d. to 6d. per lb.
2542. — GOOSEBERRY JAM.
Ingredients. — Equal weights of green gooseberries and preserving
sugar. To 7 lbs. of fruit allow 1 pint of cold water.
Method. — Head and tail the gooseberries. Put the sugar and water
into a preserving-pan, let it stand by the side of the fire until the sugar
is dissolved, then add the fruit. Bring slowly to boiling point, stirring
occasionally, then boil slowly until the syrup readily stiffens when
tested on a cold plate; this will be when the jam has boiled for about
40 minutes. Pour the jam into jars, cover it at once with paper brushed
over with white of egg, and keep it in a cool, dry place.
Time. -About if hours. Average Cost, 4d. per lb.
2543. — GOOSEBERRY JAM. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — To each lb. of fruit allow f of a lb. of preserving sugar.
Method. — Put the sugar into a tin or dish, and let it get quite hot in
the oven. Head and tail the gooseberries, put them into a preserving-
pan, allow them to stand by the side of the fire until some of the juice
is extracted, then bring to boiling point and boil for 15 minutes. Now
add the sugar gradually, and boil for 10 minutes longer, from the
time it re-boils. Test on a cold plate; if the juice stiffens, pour the
jam into pots, cover closely, and store in a cool, dry place.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, 4d. per lb.
2544. — GOOSEBERRY JAM. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — To each lb. of fruit allow 1 lb. of preserving sugar,
and f a pint of cold water.
Method. — Top and tail the gooseberries. Dissolve the sugar in the
cold water, boil up, simmer for about 15 minutes, and remove the scum
as it rises. Now put in the fruit, boil gently from 35 to 40 minutes,
or until the jam sets readily when tested on a cold plate. Pour into
pots, cover at once with paper brushed over on both sides with white
of egg, and store in a cool, dry place.
Time. — About if hours. Average Cost, 4d. to 5d. per lb.
2545. — GOOSEBERRY JELLY.
Ingredients. — To each pint of gooseberries allow f a pint of water; to
each pint of juice obtained from these add 1 lb. of either loaf or pre-
serving sugar.
RECIPES FOR PRESERVES
ii45
Method. — Put the fruit and water into a preserving pan, and bo'll
slowly until reduced to a pulp. Strain through a jelly-bag of fine cloth
until clear, then put it into the preserving-pan with the sugar, and boil
until it will set when a little is poured on a cold plate. Turn into
small pots, cover with paper brushed over with white of egg, fasten
securely down so as to completely exclude the air, and store the jelly
in a cool, dry place.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, 7d. or 8d. per lb.
2546. — GRAPE JAM.
Ingredients. — Firm, sound, unripe grapes. To each lb. allow \ a lb.
of preserving sugar.
Method. — Place the fruit and sugar in layers in a preserving-pan,
allow it to stand by the side of the fire until the whole mass is thor-
oughly hot and some of the juice is extracted, then bring slowly to
boiling point. Boil until the juice sets quickly when tested on a cold
plate, pour it into small pots, cover closely, and keep the jelly in a cool,
dry place.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 8d. per lb.
Note. — In France, about of a lb. of apples are added to each lb. of grapes.
2547. — GRATED MARMALADE.
Ingredients. — 12 large Seville oranges, 2 lemons, sugar.
Method. — Grate the rinds of 6 oranges, remove all the white pith,
and throw it away. Remove and throw away both rind and pith
of the remaining 6 oranges. Weigh the oranges, and to each lb. allow
1 lb. of sugar. Divide into sections, scrape out the pulp, and soak
the pips and pith in a little cold water. Place the sugar, juice of the
2 lemons, orange rind, pulp and juice in a preserving pan, add the
water strained from the pips and pith, and boil gently until the marma-
lade jellies quickly when tested on a cold plate. Cover the jars closely,
and store them in a dry, cool place.
2548. — GREEN GINGER, TO PRESERVE.
Ingredients. — Green ginger, sugar, water.
Method. — Put the ginger regularly every night and morning for a fort-
night into fresh boiling water. Remove the outside skin with a sharp
knife, boil it in water until it is quite soft, and slice it in thin slices.
Make ready a syrup of 1 lb. of loaf sugar to \ a pint of water, clarify
it, and put the ginger into it. Boil until it is clear.
Time.— 14 days. Average Cost, is. per lb.
2549. — GREENGAGE MARMALADE. ( See Greengage
Jam, No. 2552.)
1146
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
2550. — GRAPE JELLY.
Ingredients. — To each lb. of fruit add a \ of a pint of cold water. To
each pint of juice obtained from these add 1 lb. of either loaf or pre-
serving sugar.
Method. — Remove the stalks, put the fruit and the water into a pre-
serving-pan, and simmer very gently until the grapes are soft. Strain
the juice through a jelly-bag or fine cloth until clear, replace it in the
pan, and boil rapidly for } an hour. Add the sugar and continue the
boiling until the jelly sets quickly when tested on a cold plate. As
the scum rises it should be carefully removed. When ready pour the
jelly into small pots, cover closely, and store in a cool, dry place.
I Time. — About ij- hours. Average Cost, is. to is. 6d. per lb.
2551. — GRAPE MARMALADE.
Ingredients. — Grapes, preserving sugar.
Method. — Remove the stalks, put the fruit into a preserving-pan,
barely cover with boiling water, and simmer gently until perfectly soft,
but the grapes must not be allowed to break. Drain well, pass through
a fine sieve, and return the pulp to the pan. To each pint add from
12 to 16 ozs. of sugar, according to degree of sweetness required, and
boil from 20 to 25 minutes, reckoning from the time the entire mass
reaches boiling point. Turn into jars, cover at once with paper brushed
over on both sides with white of egg, and store in a cool, dry place.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, is, 2d. to is. 3d. per lb.
2552. — GREENGAGE JAM.
Ingredients. — Firm, sound greengages. To each lb. allow f of a lb. of
preserving sugar.
Method. — Remove the stalks and stones, crack a few of the latter,
and put the kernels aside. Cover the bottom of a preserving-pan to the
depth of } an inch with cold water, put in the fruit and kernels, bring
slowly to boiling point, and boil gently for 15 minutes. Meanwhile,
the sugar should have been placed in the oven in a deep tin or dish,
and allowed to become thoroughly hot. It may now be added gradu-
ally to the fruit, and the boiling must be continued until the jam sets
quickly when tested on a cold plate. Pour into pots, cover with paper
brushed over with white of egg, and store in a cool, dry place.
Time, — From 1 to i|- hours. Average Cost, 8d. per lb.
2553. — GREENGAGES PRESERVED IN SYRUP.
Ingredients. — To each lb. of fruit allow 1 lb. of either loaf or preserving
sugar, and J of a pint of water.
Method. — Proceed exactly as in the preceding recipe, with the excep-
tion of removing the stones before putting the fruit into the syrup.
RECIPES FOR PRESERVES
1147
Boil the fruit for 10 minutes on 3 consecutive days, adding on the last
day half the kernels, which should be previously blanched. Through-
out the whole process the scum must be carefully removed as it rises,
otherwise the syrup will not be clear.
Time. — Altogether, 3 days. Average Cost, about 6d. to 8d. per lb.
2554. — GREENGAGES, TO PRESERVE DRY.
Ingredients. — To each lb. of fruit allow 1 lb. of sugar, a of a pint of
water.
Method. — For this purpose the fruit must be used before it is quite
ripe, and part of the stalk must be left on. Weigh the fruit, rejecting
all that is in the least degree blemished, and put it into a lined sauce-
pan with the sugar and water, which should have been previously
boiled together to a syrup. Boil the fruit in this for 10 minutes, remove
it from the fire, and drain the greengages. The next day boil up the
syrup, put in the fruit again, let it simmer for 3 minutes, then drain the
syrup away. Continue this process for 5 or 6 days, and the last time
place the greengages, when drained, on a hair sieve, and put them
in an oven to dry. Keep them in a box, with paper between each layer,
in a place free from damp.
Time. — Altogether 6 days. Average Cost, 6d. to 8d. per lb.
2555. — LEMON MARMALADE.
Ingredients. — Lemons, loaf sugar.
Method.— Place the lemons in a preserving-pan, cover them with
cold water, and boil them gently for 2 hours, during which time the
water must be drained off and replaced by fresh boiling water at
least 3 times. Let them cool slightly, slice thinly, remove all the pips,
and weigh the fruit. To each lb. allow 2 lb. of sugar and 1 pint of the
water the lemons were last boiled in, and boil these together until a
thin syrup is obtained. Then add the prepared fruit, and boil until
the marmalade jellies when tested on a cold plate. Cover closely with
paper brushed over on both sides with white of egg, and store in a cool,
dry place.
Time. — From 3 to 3} hours. Average Cost, from 6d. to 9d. per lb.
2556. — LEMON MARMALADE. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — Lemons, apples, sugar, whole ginger.
Method. — Prepare the lemons as directed in the preceding recipe, then
weigh them. Take an equal weight of sour cooking apples, pare,
core, slice them, and stew them gently until reduced to a pulp. Add
the weight of the apple pulp to that of the sliced lemons; to each lb.
allow 2 lb. of preserving sugar, and 1 pint of the water the lemons were
last boiled in. Boil the sugar and water to a thin syrup, add the fruit,
1148
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
and boil gently until the marmalade sets quickly when tested on a cold
plate. Pour into pots, cover at once with paper brushed over on both
sides with white of egg, and store in a cool, dry place.
Time. — About 3 hours. Average Cost, from yd. to 8d. per lb.
2557. — MANGOES, TO PRESERVE.
Ingredients. — Mangoes, syrup ( see To Clarify Sugar for Syrup, No. 2599),
lime water.
Method. — Let the mangoes lie for a few hours in cold water, then peel
them thinly and remove the stones. Cover with weak lime water,
and at the end of 1 hour drain well and place them in a preserving pan.
Barely cover with cold water, boil gently for 10 minutes, and drain
well. Replace the mangoes in the pan, cover with syrup, boil gently
until the sugar begins to crystallise, and, when cool, transfer carefully
into jars or wide-necked bottles. During the first month the syrup
must be examined from time to time, and if it appears at all thin it
should, be reboiled. It may be necessary to repeat this process two
or three times before finally corking down.
2558. — MANGOES, TO PRESERVE. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — -Green mangoes, pounded ginger, turmeric, cayenne,
salt.
Method. — Peel and quarter the mangoes, and sprinkle them well with
salt. Let them dry in the sun until they begin to curl up, then rub
them with a mixture of salt, turmeric and cayenne. As soon as the
mangoes are completely dried up, place them in bottles, and cork
securely.
2559. — MORELLA CHERRIES, TO PRESERVE. {See
Cherries, To Preserve, No. 2519, and Cherries,
Dried, No. 2517.)
2560. — MULBERRIES PRESERVED.
Ingredients. — Ripe mulberries, preserving sugar.
Method. — Put half the fruit into a jar, cover closely, place it on the
stove in a large saucepan of cold water, and cook slowly until the juice
is extracted. Strain, measure the juice, and put it into a preserving-
pan or large stewpan with the addition of 2 lbs. of sugar to each pint
of juice. Bring to boiling point, skim well, add the remainder of the
fruit, and boil until it is half cooked. Turn the whole into an earthen-
ware vessel, unless the preserving-pan be lined with enamel, in which
case they may remain in the pan. On the following day boil until the
juice sets quickly when tested on a cold plate. Turn into pots, cover
closely, and store in a cool, dry place.
RECIPES FOR PRESERVES
1149
Time. — Altogether, 2 days. Average Cost, uncertain, as this fruit
is rarely offered for sale.
Mulberry. — Mulberries are esteemed for their highly aromatic flavour and their sub-acid nature.
They are considered as cooling, laxative and generally wholesome. This fruit was very highly appreci-
ated by the Romans, who appear to have preferred it to every other. The mulberry tree is stated
to have been introduced into this country in 1548, being first planted at Sion House, where the original
trees still thrive. The planting of mulberry trees was much encouraged by King James I, about 1605 ;
and considerable attempts were made at that time to rear silkworms on a large scale, for the purpose
of making silk ; but these endeavours have always failed, the climate not being sufficiently warm.
2561 . — NECTARINES PRESERVED.
Ingredients. — Nectarines, preserving sugar.
Method. — Split the nectarines in halves, remove the stones, crack
them and put the kernels aside. Weigh the fruit, put an equal amount
of sugar into the preserving-pan, add a £ of a pint of water to each lb.
of sugar, and boil to a syrup. Now put in the fruit, boil very gently
until it is quite tender, but not broken, then lift it out carefully with
a spoon and put it into pots. Boil the syrup rapidly until it sets quickly
when tested on a cold plate, pour it over the fruit, cover closely, and
store in a cool, dry place.
Time. — About i-|- hours. Average Cost, is. 3d. to is. 6d. per lb.
2562. — ORANGE MARMALADE.
Ingredients. — 12 Seville oranges, 2 lemons, preserving sugar.
Method. — Slice the fruit thinly, removing inner pith and pips.
Weigh it, and to each lb. add 3 pints of cold water. Let the whole
remain covered in an earthenware vessel for 3 days, then turn the
preparation into a preserving-pan and boil gently until quite tender.
Let it cool, weigh again, and to each lb. of fruit add 1 lb. of sugar.
Bring to boiling point, skim well, and cook gently until the syrup
stiffens quickly when tested on a cold plate. Turn into pots, cover
with paper brushed over on both sides with white of egg, and store
in a cool, dry place.
Time. — Altogether, 4 days. Average Cost, about 2d. per lb.
2563. — ORANGE MARMALADE. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 12 Seville oranges, 9 sweet oranges, 2 lemons, the weight
of the fruit in preserving sugar.
Method. — Divide the rinds of the oranges into quarters, remove them
carefully, put them into a preserving-pan with as much cold water as
will cover them, and boil gently until quite tender. Meanwhile divide
the fruit into sections, scrape out the pulp, put the pips and fibrous
skin into a basin, cover with cold water, and let them soak until required.
When the rinds are tender drain them well and shred them finely.
Strain 2 pints of the liquid in which they were boiled, and add to
it the water in which the pips and skins were soaked. Put the sugar
and water into a preserving-pan, boil to a syrup, then put in the
ii5o
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
shredded rinds and pulp, and boil gently until the marmalade jellies
when tested on a cold plate. Pour the marmalade into pots, and
cover down with paper brushed over with white of egg.
Time. — About 3 hours, exclusive of the time required for shredding
the rinds. Average Cost, 3d. per lb.
2564. — ORANGE MARMALADE. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 24 Seville oranges, their weight in preserving sugar,
2 pints of cold water.
Method. — Take off the rinds of the oranges, divide the pulp into
small pieces, and remove the pips. Boil the rinds in water for 2
hours, changing it 2 or 3 times to reduce the bitter flavour ; when
quite tender, drain well, and shred them finely. Boil the sugar and
water to a syrup, skimming well meanwhile, then add the pulp and
shredded rinds. Boil gently for about \ an hour, or until the marma-
lade sets quickly when tested on a cold plate, then pour into pots
and cover down with paper brushed over on both sides with white of
egg. Keep the marmalade in a cool, dry place.
Time. — 5 or 6 hours altogether. Average Cost, 3d. per lb.
2565. — ORANGE MARMALADE (TRANSPARENT).
Ingredients. — 4 lbs. of Seville oranges, 8 lbs. of preserving sugar, 6
pints of water, 2 or 3 whites of eggs.
Method. — Remove the rinds of the oranges, and scrape away the
white pith. Shred the rind finely, cover with water, boil gently until
tender, then strain and preserve the liquid. Strip every particle of
pith from the oranges, slice them, and remove the pips, and soak these
in a little cold water. Simmer the remainder of the water and the
sliced oranges for 2 hours, then drain through a fine hair sieve or cloth,
but do not squeeze the pulp. Replace the liquid in the pan, add the
liquid in which the rind was cooked and the strained water from the
pips, bring nearly to boiling point, and clarify with white of eggs ( see
Aspic Jelly, No. 1980). Strain until clear, replace in the pan, add the
sugar, boil gently until the syrup jellies when tested on a cold plate,
and add the orange rind. Simmer gently for 10 minutes longer, then
turn into pots, cover closely, and store in a dry, cool place.
Time. — About 1 day. Average Cost, 6d. per lb.
2566. — ORANGE MARMALADE MADE WITH HONEY.
Ingredients. — Oranges, honey.
Method. — Boil the rinds until tender, then shred them finely. Remove
the pith and pips, measure the pulp, and to each pint allow 1 lb. of
honey and \ a lb. of the prepared rinds. Simmer gently for about
40 minutes, stirring frequently, then turn the marmalade into jars or
glasses, and cover these with parchment. Store in a cool, dry place.
RECIPES FOR PRESERVES
1151
2567. — ORANGES AND LEMONS, TO PRESERVE
WHOLE.
Ingredients. — Oranges or lemons. To 1 lb. of oranges allow 2 lbs. of
sugar and 1 pint of water; to lemons add 3 lbs. of sugar and i t pints of
water.
Method. — At one end of each orange make a hole sufficiently large
to admit a small spoon, and scoop out the pulp and juice. Cover the
rinds with cold water, and let them remain for 3 days, changing the
water 2 or 3 times daily. Drain, place them in the preserving pan with
sufficient cold water to cover them, simmer gently until tender, and
drain well. Boil the sugar and water to a syrup, add the juice and
pulp, boil gently for 1 5 minutes, and pour the whole over the oranges.
When quite cold, replace in the pan, simmer very gently for | an hour,
then turn into an earthenware vessel. On the following day boil up
the syrup and pour it over the oranges; this process should be repeated
on 2 or 3 consecutive days until the rinds are quite clear. Fill the
oranges with syrup, place them in wide-necked jars, pour the remainder
of the syrup over them, and cover closely. Store in a cool, dry place.
2568. — ORANGES, TO PRESERVE. (See Oranges and
Lemons, To Preserve Whole, No. 2567.)
2569. — PEACH MARMALADE. (See Apple Marmalade,
No. 2500, and Rhubarb Marmalade, No. 2594.)
2570. — PEACHES PRESERVED IN BRANDY.
Ingredients.— 6 lbs. of peaches, 3 lbs. of castor or powdered loaf sugar,
3 pints of brandy.
Method. — Peaches intended for preserving should be firm, sound, and
not over-ripe. Remove the stones, taking care to keep the fruit as
whole as possible, place the fruit in a large jar, and cover each layer
thickly with sugar. Add the brandy, cover closely, place the jar in a
saucepan of boiling water, and cook gently until the brandy is on the
point of boiling. Remove the fruit carefully to hot, dry, small pots,
add to each an equal share of the hot brandy, and cover closely with
paper brushed over with white of egg. Store in a cool, dry place.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 2d. each.
Peach and Nectarine. — At Montreuii, a village near Paris, almost the whole population is em-
ployed in the cultivation of peaches. This occupation has maintained the inhabitants for ages, and
in consequence they raise better peaches than anywhere else in France. In Maryland and Virginia
peaches grow nearly wild, in orchards resembling forests ; but the fruit is of very little value for the
table, being employed only in fattening hogs and for the distillation of peach brandy. In California
large groves of peaches and apricots are grown, the finest being exported, packed in baskets half ripe,
in the form of “ evaporated ” or oven-dried peaches, and as canned fruit. On the east side of the
Andes, peaches grow wild among the cornfields and in the mountains, and are dried as an article of
food. The young leaves of the peach are sometimes used in cookery, for their agreeable flavour ;
and a liqueur resembling: the fine noyeau of Martinique may be made by steeping them in brandy
sweetened with sugar and fined with milk ; gin may also be flavoured in the same manner. The
kernels of the fruit have the same flavour. The nectarine is said to have received its name from
Nectar, the wine of the gods. It belongs to the same species as the peach, differing from it in
having a smoother rind and pulp. The nectarine is, by some, considered the superior fruit.
1152 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
2571. — PEARS, PRESERVED.
Ingredients. — Firm, sound, not over-ripe pears, an equal weight of
loaf sugar.
Method. — Pare, halve, and core the pears. Put half the sugar into
a preserving pan, to each lb. add 2 pints of water, and boil to a thin
syrup. Let it cool, put in the prepared fruit, and simmer very gently
until half cooked. Turn the whole into an earthenware bowl, cover,
and allow them to remain for 2 days. When ready, drain the syrup
into a preserving-pan, add the remainder of the sugar and a table-
spoonful of lemon-juice to each pint of liquid, and boil gently for 15
minutes, skimming well meanwhile. Now put in the fruit, simmer very
gently until quite tender, then transfer them carefully to jars, and pour
over the syrup. Cover closely, and store in a cool, dry place.
Time. — Altogether, 2 days. Average Cost, id. each.
Pear. — The pear, like the apple, is indigenous in this country, but the wild pear is a very unsatis-
factory fruit. The best varieties were brought from the East by the Romans, who cultivated them
with care, and probably introduced some of their best sorts into this island, to which others were
added by the inhabitants of the monasteries. The Dutch and Flemings, as well as the French, have
excelled in the cultivation of the pear, and most of the large varieties introduced are from France
and Flanders. The pear is a hardy tree, and lives for a longer period than the apple ; it has been
known to exist for centuries. There are now about 150 varieties of this fruit. Though perfectly
wholesome when ripe, the pear is not so when green, but in this state it is fit for stewing. An agree-
able beverage, called perry, is made from pears, and the varieties which are least fit for eating make
the best perry.
2572. — PEARS, PRESERVED. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 8 lbs. of firm, sound pears, 6 lbs. of preserving sugar, the
finely-grated rind and juice of 3 lemons, 2 inches of whole ginger.
Method. — Select a stewjar with a close-fitting lid, cover the bottom
to the depth of 1 inch with cold water, put in the fruit and sugar in
layers, and add the ginger, lemon-rind and lemon-juice. Cover closely,
place the jar in a saucepan of boiling water, and cook slowly until the
pears are quite tender, but not broken. Put them carefully into jars,
strain the syrup over them, and cover with papers brushed over on
both sides with white of egg. The pears will keep good for 3 or 4
months if stored in a cool, dry place.
Time. — From 5 to 6 hours. Average Cost, id. each.
The Bon Chretien Pear. — This valuable variety of pear, which comes to our table in winter,
either raw or cooked, received its name through the following incident : Louis XI, King of France,
had sent for St. Francois de Paule from the lower part of Calabria, in the hopes of recovering his
health through his intercession. The saint brought with him the seeds of this pear ; and as he was
called at court Le Bon Chretien , this fruit obtained its name from the introducer of this variety of
pear into France. .
2573. — PINEAPPLE CHIPS. ( See Pineapple, Pre-
served, No. 2576.)
2574. — PICKLED PEARS, SWEET.
Ingredients. — Firm pears. To each lb. allow i a lb. of brown sugar,
and | of a pint of malt vinegar; cloves, cinnamon, allspice.
r
PRESERVES AND TINNED FRUIT
Maple Syrup, Samoa Brand Syrup, Glebe Golden Syrup, Raspberry and Currant
Jam, Keiller’s Marmalade, Damson Jam, Golden Shred Marmalade, Royal Tablet
Marmalade, Black Currant Jam.
Tomatoes, Morelia Cherries, Table Fruit, Figs, Guavas, Pine Chunks, Peaches, Apricots.
9
II
RECIPES FOR PRESERVES
ii53
Method. — Peel the pears and tie the spices in muslin. Place the
vinegar, sugar and spices in a preserving pan; when boiling add the
pears, and cook them gently until tender. Remove the pears to a
bowl or large basin, boil the syrup for 10 minutes longer, then pour
it over the fruit. On the following day boil up the syrup, and repeat
the process the two following days. On the third day place the pears
in jars or wide-necked bottles, and remove the spices before adding the
vinegar to the fruit. Store in a dry, cool place.
Time. — 3 days. Average Cost, id. each.
2575. — PINEAPPLE MARMALADE.
Ingredients. — Pineapple pulp. To each lb. add 14 ozs. of loaf sugar.
Method.— Peel, core and slice the pineapples, and either pound or
grate them finely, preferably the latter. Boil the pulp and sugar
together until thick and clear, then turn into pots, cover first with
branched paper, and afterward with parchment. Store in a cool, dry
place.
Time. — 2 to 3 hours. Average Cost, from 2s. each.
2576. — PINEAPPLE, PRESERVED.
Ingredients. — Pineapples, pounded loaf or castor sugar.
Method. — Pare and slice the fruit thinly, pile it on a large dish, and
sprinkle each layer liberally with sugar. Keep it in a hot closet, or
put it daily for 7 or 8 days into a cool oven, turning it frequently.
When quite dry, bake a few slices at a time, in a moderately hot oven.
When quite cold, pack them in air-tight boxes with paper between each
layer.
Time.- — About 8 days. Average Cost, from 2s. each.
2577. — PINEAPPLE, PRESERVED. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — To each lb. of fruit, weighed after being pared, allow
1 lb. of loaf sugar and \ of a pint of water.
Method. — Pare the pines thinly, and cut them into thick slices. Put
the water into a preserving-pan, add the sugar gradually, and when
quite dissolved boil and skim well. Add the fruit, simmer gently for
about \ an hour, then transfer carefully to a large jar, and pour the
syrup over.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, from 2s. each.
2578. — PINEAPPLE, TO PRESERVE. (Another
Method.)
Ingredients. —Pineapples, castor or loaf sugar.
Method. — Cut the pines into slices \ of an inch in thickness, trim
off the edges, and remove the hard centre part. Put these trimmings
P P
H54
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
into a stewpan with sufficient water to cover them, and simmer them
gently for \ an hour. Strain, return to the stewpan, add the sliced
pines, sugar to taste, and simmer gently for about \ an hour, skimming
occasionally meanwhile. Pines thus preserved will keep but a very
short time.
Time. — About ij hours. Average Cost, from 2s. each.
2579. — PLUM JAM.
Ingredients. — Plums, sugar.
Method. — To each lb. of fruit allow from 12 to 16 ozs. of sugar, accord-
ing to the degree of sweetness required, and the amount of acidity
contained in the plums. Divide the plums, take out the stones, or,
if preferred, cut them across, and remove the stones as they rise in the
pan. Pile the fruit on a large dish with the sugar spread thickly be-
tween each layer, allow them to remain thus until the following day,
then put the whole into a preserving-pan, and heat slowly by the side
of the fire, stirring occasionally meanwhile. Boil gently until the
jam sets quickly when tested on a cold plate, then turn it into pots,
cover closely, and keep it in a cool, dry place.
Time. — Altogether, 26 hours. Average Cost, 3d. to 6d. per lb.
Plums. — The Damson, or Damascene, plum takes its name from Damascus, where it grows in
great quantities, and from whence it was brought into Italy aboilt 114 b.c. The Orleans plum is
from France. The greengage is called after the Gage family, who first brought it into England from
the monastery of the Chartreuse, at Paris, where it still bears the name of Reine Claude. The Mag-
num-bonum is our largest plum, and is greatly esteemed for preserves and culinary purposes. The
best sort of plums are agreeable for dessert, and, when perfectly ripe, are wholesome ; but some are
too astringent, while others, when thoroughly ripe, are rather laxative. Plums lose much of their
bad qualities by cooking, but they should be eaten in moderation by those whose digestive organs are
not over-strong.
2580. — PLUMS, TO PRESERVE.
Ingredients. — To each lb. of plums allow i lb. of loaf sugar and \ a
pint of water.
Method. — Put the water and sugar into a preserving-pan, and boil
to a thin syrup. Remove the stalks from the plums, prick them
slightly to prevent them breaking, pour over them the prepared syrup,
and allow them to remain thus for 2 days. Turn the whole into a
preserving-pan, boil very gently until the plums are tender, then lift
them carefully into pots. Boil the syrup to the “ large thread ” degree,
pour it over the plums, cover closely, and store them in a cool, dry
place.
Time. — Altogether, 2 days. Average Cost, 3d. to 6d. per lb.
2581. — PLUMS, TO PRESERVE DRY.
Ingredients. — An equal weight of plums and loaf sugar.
Method. — Put half the sugar into a preserving-pan with the addition
of \ a pint of cold water to each lb. of sugar, and boil to a thin syrup.
Divide the plums, remove the stones, and put the fruit into the pre-
RECIPES FOR PRESERVES
1155
pared syrup. Simmer gently until half cooked, then turn the whole
into an earthenware bowl, cover, and let it remain thus until the
following day. Strain the syrup into a preserving-pan, add the rest
of the sugar, and boil to the “ large pearl ” degree ( see No. 2266). Allow
it to cool slightly, put in the plums, simmer very gently until tender,
then remove them very carefully to a deep dish and strain the syrup
over them. Let the plums remain covered for 48 hours, drain well,
spread them on large dishes in single layers, and when quite dry pack
them in air-tight tins with wax paper between the layers.
Time. — Altogether, 3 days. Average Cost, qd. to 6d. per lb.
2582. — PLUMS, SPICED.
Ingredients. — Firm plums, sugar, vinegar, cinnamon, cloves, shredded
orange-rind.
Method. — Prick the plums well with a fork, place them in a large
jar with cinnamon-, cloves and orange-rind between each layer. Cover
with vinegar, and, on the following day, strain off and boil for 10
minutes. Let it cool, pour it over the fruit, and at the end of 24 hours
again strain and measure it. To each pint add 3 ozs. of sugar, boil
the two together for 10 minutes, pour it over the plums, and, when
cold, cover closely, and store in a dry, cool place.
Time. — 3 days. Average Cost, 4d. to 6d. per lb.
2583. — PUMPKIN, TO PRESERVE.
Ingredients. — To each lb. of pumpkin allow 1 lb. of preserving sugar,
2 tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice, the finely-grated rind of 1 lemon,
and \ a teaspoonful of ground ginger.
Method. — Pare and halve the pumpkin, remove the seeds, and slice
thinly. Lay the slices on a large dish, covering each layer thickly
with sugar, add the lemon-juice, and let it remain for 3 days. Turn
the whole into a preserving-pan, add the lemon-rind and ginger, and
a pint of cold water to 3 lbs. of fruit, bring slowly to boiling point,
and continue the cooking until the slices of pumpkin are quite tender,
but not broken. Transfer carefully to an earthenware bowl, let it re-
main covered for 7 days, then lift the slices of pumpkin carefully into
jars, and strain the syrup into a preserving-pan. Boil the syrup to the
“ large pearl ” degree ( see No. 2266), pour it over the pumpkin, cover
closely, and, when cold, put the jars into a cool, dry place.
Time. — 10 days. Average Cost, qd. to 5d. per lb.
2584. — QUINCE AND APPLE MARMALADE. (See
Quince Marmalade, No. 2586.)
Use equal parts of quince and apple puree.
1156
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
2585. — QUINCE JELLY.
Ingredients. — To every pint of juice allow 1 lb. of loaf sugar.
Method. — Pare and slice the quinces, and put them into a preserving-
pan with sufficient water to float them. Boil them until the fruit is
reduced to a pulp. Strain off the clear juice, and to each pint allow
the above proportion of loaf sugar. Boil the juice and sugar together
for about f- of an hour, remove all the scum as it rises, and when the
jelly appears firm upon a little being poured on a plate, pour into small
pots. The residue left on the sieve will answer to make a common
marmalade for immediate use, by boiling it with \ a lb. of common
sugar to every lb. of pulp.
Time. — 4 hours altogether. Average Cost, iod. per lb.
2586. — QUINCE MARMALADE.
Ingredients. — To each lb. of quince pulp allow f- of a lb. of loaf or
preserving sugar.
Method. — Pare the fruit, put it into a preserving-pan with as much
water as will just cover the bottom of the pan, and stew gently until
reduced to a pulp. Pass through a hair sieve, weigh the pulp, replace
it in the pan, add the sugar, and cook very gently until the marmalade
sets quickly when tested on a cold plate. Turn into pots, cover with
paper brushed over on both sides with white of egg, and store in a cool,
dry place.
Time. — About 4 hours. Average Cost, iod. per lb.
2587. — QUINCES, TO PRESERVE.
Ingredients. — Quinces, loaf sugar.
Method. — Pare, quarter, core the quinces, and preserve the skins and
cores. Put the fruit into the preserving-pan with barely enough
water to cover them, and simmer until soft, but not broken. Place
the quinces singly on large dishes, add the cores and parings to the water
in which the quinces were cooked, and simmer gently for 1 hour. Strain
through a jelly-bag until quite clear, return it to the pan with the ad-
dition of 1 lb. of sugar for each lb. of fruit, bring to boiling point, and
skim well. Put in the quinces, boil for 15 minutes, then turn the whole
carefully into an earthenware bowl, and let the preparation remain
until the following day. Drain the syrup once more into the pan;
when boiling add the fruit, cook gently for 15 minutes, then lift the
quinces carefully into small jars, which they should |- fill. Continue
boiling the syrup until it forms a thick jelly when tested on a cold plate,
pour it over the fruit, cover the jars closely with paper brushed over
on each side with white of egg, and store in a cool, dry place.
Time.- — Altogether, 2 days. Average Cost, iod. per lb.
RECIPES FOR PRESERVES
ii57
2588. — RASPBERRY JAM.
Ingredients. — To every lb. of raspberries allow 1 lb. of sugar, of a
pint of red-currant juice.
Method. — Let the fruit for this preserve be gathered in fine weather,
and used as soon after it is picked as possible. Take off the stalks,
put the raspberries into a preserving-pan, break them well with a
wooden spoon, and let them boil for \ of an hour, keeping them well
stirred. Add the currant -juice and sugar, and boil again for \ an
hour. Skim the jam well after the sugar is added, or the preserve will
not be clear. The addition of the currant-juice is a very great improv-
ment to this preserve, as it gives it the piquant taste which the flavour
of the raspberries seems to require.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, yd. to 8d. per lb.
2589. — RASPBERRY JELLY.
Ingredients. — To each pint of juice allow of a lb. of loaf sugar.
Method. — Let the raspberries be freshly gathered, quite ripe, and
picked from the stalks; put them into a large jar, after breaking the
fruit a little with a wooden spoon, and place the jar, covered, in a sauce-
pan of boiling water. When the juice is well drawn, which will be from
J to 1 hour, strain the fruit through a fine hair sieve or cloth, measure
the juice, and to each pint allow the above proportion of loaf sugar.
Put the juice and sugar into a preserving-pan, place it over the fire,
and boil gently until the jelly thickens upon a little being poured on
a cold plate; carefully remove all the scum as it rises, pour the jelly
into small pots, cover down, and keep in a dry place. This jelly answers
for making raspberry cream, and for flavouring various sweet dishes,
when the fresh fruit is not obtainable.
Time. — About i|- hours. Average Cost, iod. to is. per !b.
2590* — RED CURRANT JAM.
Ingredients. — Red currants, preserving sugar.
Method. — Remove the stalks, put the fruit into a preserving -pan,
and to each lb. allow £ of a lb. of preserving sugar. Stir occasionally
until the fruit is nearly boiling, and afterwards almost continuously.
Roil gently for about 40 minutes, or until a little will set when poured
on to a cold plate. Turn into pots, cover closely, and store in a cool,
dry place.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, about 6d. per lb.
259I._ red CURRANT JELLY.
Ingredients. — Red currants, preserving sugar.
Method. — Strip the currants from the stalks, put them into a jar placed
in a saucepan of boiling water, and simmer gently until the juice is
extracted, then strain the juice through a jelly-bag or fine cloth
into a preserving-pan. To each pint add from f to 1 lb. of sugar, and
1158
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
boil gently until a little of the jelly, when tested on a cold plate, almost
immediately sets. Pour into small pots, cover closely, and keep in a
cool, dry place.
Time. — About ij- hours. Average Cost, is. to is. 3d. per lb.
2592. — RHUBARB JAM.
Ingredients. — To each lb. of rhubarb allow 1 lb. of preserving sugar,
i a teaspoonful of ground ginger, and the finely-grated rind of \ a lemon.
Method. — Remove the outer stringy part of the rhubarb, cut it into
short lengths, and weigh it. Put it into a preserving-pan with sugar,
ginger, and lemon-rind in the above proportions, place the pan by the
side of the fire, and let the contents come very slowly to boiling point,
stirring occasionally meanwhile. Boil until the jam sets quickly,
when tested on a cold plate. Pour it into pots, cover closely, and store
in a cool, dry place.
Time. — From 1 to i-J- hours, according to the age of the rhubarb.
Average Cost, qd. per lb.
2593. — RHUBARB AND ORANGE JAM.
Ingredients. — 1 quart of finely-cut rhubarb, 6 oranges, ij lbs. of pre-
serving sugar.
Method. — Cut the rinds of the oranges into sections, remove them
and scrape off as much of the white pith as possible. Free the pulp
from fibrous skin and pips, put it into a preserving pan, with the sugar,
rhubarb and orange-rinds, previously finely-shredded. Bring slowly
to boiling point, skim well, and boil until the jam stiffens when tested
on a cold plate. Cover closely, and store in a cool, dry place.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, qd. to sd. per lb.
2594. — RHUBARB MARMALADE.
Ingredients. — Rhubarb. To each lb. allow 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar
and J teaspoonful of ground ginger.
Method, — Wipe, string, and cut the rhubarb into short lengths.
Put the rhubarb, sugar and ginger in a jar, place the jar in a rather
cool oven, or in a saucepan containing boiling water, and cook until
soft. Pass through a fine sieve, and use for filling turnovers and
similar kinds of pastry.
Time, — it,- hours. Average Cost, id. to 2d. per lb. Seasonable,
January to July.
2595. — STRAWBERRY JAM.
Ingredients. — To each lb. of fruit allow from 12 to 16 ozs. of preserving
sugar.
Method. — Remove the stalks from the fruit, put it into a preserving-
pan, covering each layer thickly with sugar. Place the pan by the side
of the fire, bring the contents slowly to boiling point, and stir occasion-
RECIPES FOR PRESERVES
ii59
ally. Skim well, boil gently until the jam sets when tested on a eold
plate, taking care in stirring to keep the fruit as whole as possible.
Pour into pots, cover with paper brushed over on both sides with
white of egg, and keep in a cool, dry place.
Time.— About 1 hour. Average Cost, from 6d. to 8d. per lb.
2596. — STRAWBERRIES, TO PRESERVE.
Ingredients. — An equal weight of fruit and loaf sugar.
Method. — Strawberries for preserving must be very dry, otherwise
they will not keep; the stalks must be removed, and any unsound fruit
rejected. Put the sugar into a preserving-pan; to each lb. add \ a pint
of cold water and a small pinch of cream of tartar, and boil to the
“ small ball ” degree (see No. 2271). Now put in the prepared fruit,
cover the pan, allow it to remain on the stove, but as far away from the
fire as possible, for about 1 hour, then bring the contents to boiling
point and skim well. Boil gently for 5 minutes, then turn into jars,
cover closely, and store in a cool, dry place.
Time. — About 1^ hours. Average Cost, from 6d. to Sd. per lb.
2597. — STRAWBERRIES, TO PRESERVE. (Another
Method.)
Ingredients. — To each lb. of fruit allow 1 lb. of preserving sugar
and j-of a pint of red-currant juice ( see Red Currant Jelly, No. 2591).
Method. — Pick the strawberries, pile them on a large dish, sprinkle
on them half the sugar, and let them remain thus until the following
day. Prepare the red-currant juice as directed, put it into a preserving-
pan with the rest of the sugar, and boil to a thin syrup. Turn the fruit
and syrup into the juice, and boil gently until the syrup sets quickly
when tested on a cold plate. Pour gently into pots, cover with paper
coated on both sides with white of egg, and keep until required in a
cool, dry place.
Time. — Altogether, 2 days. Average Cost, 6d. to 8d. per lb.
2598. — TANGERINE MARMALADE.
Ingredients. — 30 tangerines, double their weight in loaf or preserving
sugar, 6 lemons, enough cold water to float the tangerines.
Method, — Wash the tangerines in water and wipe them. Place
them in a preserving pan with enough cold water to float them, and
let them boil till the rinds are soft. Drain off the water. Cut each
tangerine in quarters, remove the pips, place in a basin containing a
pint of cold water, and let them soak for twelve hours. Remove all
the pulp from the rind, and mash it well, slice the peel as thinly as
possible. Put the sugar in a preserving pan with the water from the
pips, and the strained juice of the lemons. Reduce this to the
consistency of thick syrup, then add the tangerine pulp and rinds,
n6o
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
and boil for about half an hour. Fill into dry jars, and when cold
cover them with parchment.
Note. — Before removing the marmalade from the fire, pour a little on a
plate which should set like jelly when cold, if not, reduce it a little longer.
2599. — TO CLARIFY SUGAR FOR SYRUP.
Ingredients. — To 2 lb. of loaf sugar allow 1 pint of water and the white
of 1 egg.
Method. — Put the sugar, white of egg and water into a stewpan;
when the sugar is dissolved place the stewpan by the side of the fire,
and bring the contents slowly to boiling point. When quite boiling
add a teacupful of cold water, and again bring to boiling point. Now
draw the pan aside, simmer gently for a few minutes, skimming mean-
while, and when quite clear use as required.
2600. — TOMATO JAM. {See Tomato Marmalade,
No. 2601, and Tomatoes, Preserve of,
No. 2602.)
2601. — TOMATO MARMALADE.
Ingredients. — 7 lbs. of ripe tomatoes, 8 lbs. of loaf sugar, 6 lemons, 1
pint of water.
Method. — Blanch and skin the tomatoes and cut them in halves.
Remove the rinds and all the white pith of the lemons, and slice the
fruit thinly. Boil the sugar and water to a thin syrup, add the pre-
pared tomatoes and lemons, and bring to boiling point. Stir and skim
frequently, and continue to boil gently until the marmalade quickly
jellies when tested on a cold plate. Pour into pots or glasses, and store
in a cool, dry place.
Time. — About ij hours. Average Cost, 6d. to 8d. per lb.
2602. — TOMATOES, PRESERVE OF.
Ingredients. — 7 lbs. of firm ripe tomatoes, 3^ lbs. of sugar, 1 oz. each
of cloves, allspice and cinnamon, 1 pint of vinegar.
Method. — Scald, drain and peel the tomatoes. Tie the spices in
muslin, boil them for 5 minutes with the sugar in the vinegar, then add
the tomatoes, and simmer very gently for 1 an hour. Keep closely
covered in a dry, cool place.
Time. — To cook the tomatoes, an hour. Average Cost, qd. to 6d.
per lb. Seasonable in August, September and October.
2603. — VEGETABLE MARROW, TO PRESERVE.
Ingredients. — To each lb. of marrow allow 1 lb. of preserving sugar,
2 tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice, the finely-grated rind of 1 lemon,
and \ a teaspoonful of ground ginger.
RECIPES FOR PRESERVES
1161
Method. — Pare and halve the marrow, remove the seeds, and slice
thinly. Lay the slices on a large dish, covering each layer thickly
with sugar, add the lemon-juice, and let the whole remain thus for 3
days. At the end of the time turn the preparation into a preserving-
pan, add the lemon-rind and ginger, and \ a pint of cold water to 3 lbs.
of fruit, bring slowly to boiling point, continue the cooking until the
slices of marrow are quite tender but not broken. Transfer carefully
to an earthenware bowl, let it remain covered for 3 days, then lift the
slices of marrow carefully into jars, and strain the syrup into a pre-
serving-pan. Boil it to the “ large pearl ” degree (see No. 2268), pour
it over the marrow, cover closely, and store in a dry, cool place.
Time. — Altogether, 6 days. Average Cost, 5d. per lb.
2604. — VEGETABLE MARROW, TO PRESERVE.
(Another Method.)
Ingredients. — An equal weight of marrow and sugar. To each lb.
of marrow allow \ of an oz. of whole ginger, and the grated rind and
juice of -V a lemon.
Method. — Prepare the marrow as in the preceding recipe, pile the
slices on a large dish, with the sugar spread in layers, and allow it to
remain thus until the following day. Then turn the whole into a pre-
serving-pan, add the lemon-rind and lemon-juice, the ginger cut into
small pieces, and boil very gently until the greater part of the moisture
is absorbed. Turn into pots, cover closely, and store in a cool, dry place.
Time. — Altogether, 2 daj^s. Average Cost, qd. to 3d. per lb.
2605. - WHITE CURRANT JELLY.
Ingredients. — White currants. To each pint of juice allow f- of a lb.
of preserving sugar.
Method. — Pick the currants from the stalk, and put them into a jar.
Place the jar in a saucepan of boiling water, simmer gently until the
juice is extracted, then strain through a jelly-bag or fine cloth into a
preserving-pan. To each pint allow from f to 1 lb. of sugar, according
to taste, and boil gently until the jelly quickly sets, when a little is
poured on a cold plate. Turn into small pots, cover with tissue paper
brushed over with white of egg, fasten securely, and keep the jelly
in a cool, dry place.
Time. — About i:} hours. Average Cost, from is. 3d. to is. 6d. per lb.
Pickles
2606.— APPLE CHUTNEY.
Ingredients. — z\ lbs. of thickly sliced apples, 1 lb. of brown sugar,
| of a lb. of sultanas, 2 ozs. of salt, £ an oz. of mustard seeds, -t an oz.
Il62
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
of ground ginger, \ of an oz. of garlic bruised, £ of an oz. of cayenne,
i pint of good vinegar.
Method. — Simmer the vinegar, sugar and apples gently until reduced
to a pulp, stir in the remaining ingredients, and, when well mixed,
turn the whole into a basin. Cover, stir 2 or 3 times daily for 1 week,
then bottle, cork securely, and store for use.
2607. — ARTICHOKES, PICKLED.
Ingredients. — Globe artichokes, spiced vinegar ( see recipe for Vinegar,
Spiced, No. 2704), salad-oil, salt.
Method. — Make a strong brine; when boiling put in the artichokes,
boil gently for 10 or 1 5 minutes, and drain well. Remove and put aside
the chokes, place the artichokes in jars, and cover them with boiling
spiced vinegar. When cold, fill the jars with salad-oil, cover closely,
and store for use.
2608. — BEETROOT PICKLE.
Ingredients. — 6 medium-sized beetroots, 1 quart of malt vinegar,
\ an oz. of whole black pepper, \ an oz. of allspice, 1 small horseradish
grated, salt to taste.
Method. — Wash the beetroots well, taking care not to break the skins,
and bake them in a moderate oven for i-| hours. When cool enough
to handle remove the skins, cut the beetroots into -J-inch slices, and
place them in jars. Meanwhile boil the vinegar, horseradish, pepper
and spice together, let the mixture become quite cold, then pour in
over the beetroot. Cover the jars closely with parchment paper coated
on both sides with white of egg, and store until required in a cool, dry
place.
Time. — From 2 to 3 hours. Average Cost, is. 4d.
2609. — BEETROOT PICKLE. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 6 beetroots, 1 quart of vinegar, an oz. of whole pepper,
| an oz. of allspice.
Method. — Wash the beetroots well, but take care to keep the skins
intact, or they will lose some of their colouring matter. Put them
into boiling water, cook gently for \\ hours, until they are three-
quarters cooked, then drain them, and let them cool. Boil the spice,
pepper and vinegar together, and put these aside until quite cold,
meanwhile peel the beetroots, cut them into \ inch slices, and place
them in jars. Pour the cold prepared vinegar over them, cover closely,
and store in a cool, dry place. The pickle will be ready for use in 1
week.
Time. — About i\ hours. Average Cost, is. qd.
2610. — BLUEBERRIES, OR BILBERRIES, PICKLED.
(See Currants, Spiced, No. 2524, and Cherries,
Pickled, No. 2618.)
RECIPES FOR PRESERVES
1163
2611. — CABBAGE, PICKLED RED.
Ingredients. — 1 good, firm red cabbage, 1 quart of vinegar, \ an oz.
of whole pepper, \ an oz. of allspice.
Method. — Remove the outer leaves of the cabbage, quarter it, remove
the centre stalk, and cut each section across into very fine strips.
Pile the shredded cabbage on a large dish, sprinkle it liberally with
salt, and let it remain thus until the following day. Meanwhile boil
the vinegar, pepper and spice together, the latter being tied together
in a piece of muslin, and allow the preparation to become quite cold.
Turn the cabbage into an earthenware or enamelled colander, and
when well drained put it into a large jar, and pour in the vinegar. It
will be fit for use in 3 or 4 days; if kept for any length of time it loses
the crispness and colour which are its chief recommendations.
Time. — Altogether, 2 days. Average Cost, gd. to iod.
Red Cabbage. — This plant, in its growth, is similar in form to that of the white cabbage, but is
of a bluish-purple colour, which, however, turns red on the application of acid, as is the case with all
vegetable blues. It is principally from the white vegetable that the Germans make their sauer kraut
— a dish held in such high estimation with the inhabitants of Germany, but which requires, generally
speaking with strangers, a long acquaintance in order to become sufficiently impressed with its numer-
ous merits. The large red Dutch is the kind generally recommended for pickling.
2612. — CABBAGE, PICKLED RED. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 1 good cabbage, 1 quart of malt vinegar, \ an oz. of
black peppercorns, 3 an oz. of allspice.
Method. — Remove the outer leaves of the cabbage, quarter it, cut
away the stalk from the centre, and shred the sections across as finely
as possible. Put the prepared cabbage into a large jar, sprinkle each
layer with salt, and press the whole lightly down. Boil the pepper
and spice in the vinegar; when cold, pour it over the jars, and cover
them closely. The pickle will be ready for use in 3 or 4 days; it may be
kept for a considerable time, but after being pickled for 2 or 3 weeks
it loses much of its crispness and colour.
Time. — To prepare, about 2 hours. Average Cost, 9d. to iod.
2613. — CAPSICUM, PICKLED.
Ingredients. — Capsicums, vinegar. To each quart of vinegar allow
1 teaspoonful of salt, and \ a teaspoonful of mace and nutmeg mixed
in equal proportions.
Method. — If the capsicums can be obtained from the garden, they
should be gathered when they are just at the point of turning red.
Slit them at the side, take out the seeds, put the capsicums into a jar,
and sprinkle over them the salt, mace and nutmeg. Boil the vinegar,
pour it at once upon the pods, and, when cold, cover closely with parch-
ment paper or bladder. They will be ready for use in 4 or 5 weeks.
Average Cost. — From 4s. 6d. to 5s. 6d. per hundred.
1164 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
2614. — CAPSICUMS, PICKLED. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — Young green capsicums, vinegar. To each quart allow
1 teaspoonful of salt and \ a teaspoonful of ground mace.
Method. — Remove the stalks, scald the capsicums, and let them re-
main under pressure for 24 hours, to extract some of their bitter water.
Pack the Capsicums closely in a jar, pour over them boiling vinegar
seasoned with salt and mace, and, when quite cold, cover closely.
They will be ready for use in 5 or 6 weeks.
2615. — CAULIFLOWERS, PICKLED.
Ingredients. — Firm white cauliflowers, vinegar to cover them; to
each quart of which allow 1 teaspoonful of peppercorns, 1 teaspoonful
of allspice, 6 cloves.
Method. — Break the cauliflowers into small sprays, place them on a
dish, sprinkle them liberally with salt, and let them remain thus for
6 hours. Meanwhile tie the seasoning ingredients in muslin, boil them
in the vinegar for \ an hour, and allow it to become quite cold. Drain
the cauliflowers well from the salt, place them in wide-necked bottles
or unglazed jars, and pour the prepared vinegar over them. Cover
closely, store in a cool, dry place for about 1 month, and they will then
be ready for use.
Time. — 1 month. Average Cost, cauliflowers, 3s. 6d. to 4s. per doz.
2616. — CAULIFLOWER, PICKLED. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — Firm white cauliflowers, vinegar to cover them. To
each quart of vinegar allow 1 teapsoonful of peppercorns, 1 teaspoonful
of allspice.
Method. — Tie the peppercorns and allspice in muslin, simmer these
very gently in the vinegar for about 20 minutes, and put aside until
quite cold. Have ready a saucepan of boiling, highly-salted water,
break the cauliflowers into small sprays, throw them into the water,
boil for 5 minutes, and drain well. When quite cold put them into wide-
necked bottles or unglazed jars, with a few peppercorns and a little
allspice, cover with the prepared vinegar, and cover closely. They
should be ready for use in 3 or 4 weeks.
Time. — From 3 to 4 weeks. Average Cost, Cauliflowers, 3s. 6d. to 4s.
per dozen.
2617. — CAULIFLOWERS PICKLED, WITH ONIONS.
Ingredients. — An equal weight of cauliflower sprays and silver-onions,
vinegar to cover. To each quart of vinegar allow 1 level teaspoonful
of peppercorns, 1 level teaspoonful of allspice, 1 level teaspoonful of
black pepper, 1 blade of mace, 1 oz. of turmeric, 1 tablespoonful of
RECIPES FOR PRESERVES
1165
curry-powder, 1 tablespoonful of dry mustard, 1 tablespoonful of
salt, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1 tablespoonful of raw lime-juice.
Method. — Put as much water as will cover the sprays of cauliflower
into a large saucepan ; to each quart add 4 ozs. of salt, boil for 10 minutes,
and allow it to become quite cold. Break the cauliflowers into small
sprays, cover them with the cold brine, let them remain immersed for
3 days, then drain well. Peel the onions, place them in jars or wide-
necked bottles in layers alternating with sprays of cauliflower; sprinkle
each layer with a little allspice, a few peppercorns, and 1 or 2 pieces of
mace. Mix the black pepper, turmeric, curry - powder, mustard
and salt, lemon-juice and lime-juice, to a smooth paste, add the
vinegar gradually, and pour the whole over the cauliflowers and onions.
Cover closely, and store in a cool dry place. The pickle will be ready
for use in 3 or 4 weeks.
Time. — From 3 to 4 weeks. Average Cost, cauliflowers, from 3s. 6d.
to 4s. per doz. Silver onions, 2d. to 3d. per lb.
2618. — CHERRIES, PICKLED.
Ingredients. — Sound, not over-ripe Kentish cherries; French vinegar
to cover them. To each pint of vinegar allow \ a lb. of sugar, and to
the whole add cayenne to taste. A few drops of cochineal or carmine.
Method. — Pick the cherries carefully, rejecting those which are not
quite sound, leave about 1 inch of their stalks, and put the fruit into
jars. Boil the vinegar, add to it the sugar and cayenne, skim well,
let it boil for a few minutes, then turn it into an earthenware vessel.
When cold, add a few drops of carmine or cochineal, pour it over the
cherries, cover closely, and store in a cool, dry place.
Time. — From 3 to 4 hours. Average Cost, 4d. to 6d. per lb.
2619. — CHERRIES, PICKLED. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — Sound, not over-ripe Kentish cherries, good vinegar to
cover them, to each quart of vinegar allow 1 lb. of sugar.
Method. — Leave 1 inch of the stalks on the cherries, and pack them
lightly in jars. Boil the vinegar and sugar together, pour it whilst
hot over the fruit, and when cold tie paper over the jars. Let them
stand in a cool place for 1 week, then drain off the vinegar, boil and
skim well, and 'again pour while hot over the fruit. When cold cover
closely, and keep in a cool, dry place.
Time. — 7 days. Average Cost, from qd. to 6d. per lb.
2620. — CHUTNEY, ENGLISH.
Ingredients. — 3 dozen sour apples, 3 lbs. of coarse brown sugar, -J- a
lb. of salt, 2 lbs of sultana raisins, a lb. of green ginger, 6 ozs. of bird’s
eye chillies, 2 ozs. of mustard-seed, 5 medium-sized Spanish onions,
6 shallots, 3 quarts of good malt vinegar.
n66
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Dissolve the salt and sugar in the vinegar, strain, and
return it to the stewpan. Add the apples, onions and ginger, all thinly
sliced, the sultanas cleaned and picked, also the rest of the in-
gredients, and cook very gently until the apples and onions are quite
tender. Pour into small jars or wide-necked bottles ; when cold, cover
closely, and store in a cool, dry place.
2621. — CHUTNEY, INDIAN.
Ingredients. — 1 quart of malt vinegar, 1 lb. of sour apples, peeled,
cored and sliced, \ a lb. of onions, peeled and coarsely chopped, 1 lb. of
moist sugar, a lb. of raisins stoned and quartered, 4 ozs. of salt, 4
ozs. of ground ginger, 2 ozs. of dry mustard, J of an oz. of cayenne, 4
cloves of garlic finely-chopped.
Method. — Cook the apples, onions and garlic with the salt, sugar and
vinegar, until quite soft, and pass them through a fine hair sieve.
Add the raisins, ginger, cayenne and mustard, mix well together, turn
into a jar, and stand it in a warm, but not hot, place until the following
day. Have ready some perfectly dry, wide-necked small bottles or
jars, fill them with chutney, and cover closely so as to exclude the air.
This chutney may be kept for a year or two.
2622. — CHUTNEY MANGO.
Ingredients. — 50 green mangoes, 6 pints of vinegar, 3 lbs. of sugar,
2 lbs. of tamarinds stoned, 1 lb. of raisins stoned, 1 lb. of green ginger
sliced, 1 good teaspoonful of powdered cinnamon, 1 level teaspoonful
of nutmeg, 1 lb. of salt.
Method. — Peel and slice the mangoes thinly, sprinkle over them the
salt, let them remain for 36 hours, then drain well. Make a syrup
by boiling together 3 pints of vinegar and the sugar. Put the
remainder of the vinegar into a preserving pan, add the mangoes,
boil up, simmer gently for 10 minutes, then add the tamarinds, raisins,
ginger, cinnamon and nutmeg. Cook very slowly for \ an hour,
adding the syrup gradually during the last 10 minutes. Stir and boil
the mixture until the greater part of the syrup is absorbed, then turn
into bottles, cork securely, and store in a dry place.
Time. — About 1^ hours to cook. Average Cost, 5s., exclusive of the
mangoes.
2623.— CHUTNEY SAUCE, INDIAN.
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of sour apples, pared, cored and sliced, 4 ozs. of
tomatoes sliced, 4 ozs. of salt, 4 ozs. of brown sugar, 4 ozs. of raisins
stoned, 2 ozs. of cayenne, 2 ozs. of ground ginger, 1 oz. of shallots,
y of an oz. of garlic, 3 pints of malt vinegar, 1 pint of lemon-juice.
RECIPES FOR PRESERVES
1167
Method. — Mix all the ingredients together in a jar. Cover, keep in a
moderately warm place for 1 month, and stir 2 or 3 times daily. At
the end of the time strain off the liquor, let the residue drain well,
but do not squeeze it. Pour into small bottles, and cork tightly.
2624. — CHUTNEY, TOMATO.
Ingredients. — 6 lbs. of ripe tomatoes, 3 lbs. of sour cooking apples,
4 ozs. of salt, 8 ozs. of brown sugar, 3 pints of vinegar, 6 cloves of garlic,
6 ozs. of ground ginger, 1 oz. of mustard-seed.
Method. — Scald the tomatoes, remove the skin, cut them into slices,
and put them into an earthenware cooking-pot with the vinegar, salt
and apples, previously peeled, cored and chopped finely. When the
fruit is soft, rub the whole through a sieve, add the sugar, ginger
and mustard-seed, also the garlic (chopped finely), and boil the whole
gently from \ to f of an hour. Pour the contents of the cooking-pot
into a jar, cover it, and let it stand in a warm place for about 3 days.
Bottle, the chutney for use, cork up tightly, and exclude the air. Sul-
tanas or preserved ginger are sometimes added to the above.
2625. — COCKLES, PICKLED.
Ingredients. — Large cockles, vinegar to cover them, peppercorns,
allspice, salt.
Method. — The large cockles found on the north-east coast are the
best for this purpose. Wash them in several waters to remove the grit;
when quite free from it cover the cockles with cold water, add a good
handful each of salt and oatmeal, and let them remain until the follow-
ing day. To each quart of cockles allow a small \ teaspoonful of all-
spice, and the same quantity of peppercorns. Tie these spices in muslin
and boil them in the vinegar for 20 minutes. Put the cockles into a
steamer, or, failing this, a large iron saucepan with 2 or 3 tablespoon-
fuls of water to protect the bottom of the pan, cover them first with a
wet kitchen-cloth, then the lid, and cook the cockles slowly until
their shells may be easily opened with the point of a knife. Put the
cockles into the prepared cold vinegar, and the liquor contained in the
shells into a basin, and as soon as it is quite cold strain it into the
vinegar. Cockles or oysters pickled in this way may be kept some
days.
Time. — To steam the cockles, about 15 minutes. Average Cost,
cockles, 6d. per quart.
2626. — CUCUMBERS, PICKLED.
Ingredients. — Cucumbers, good vinegar to cover them. To each pint
of vinegar allow \ an oz. of peppercorns, \ an oz. of allspice, ^ a tea-
spoonful of salt.
n68
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Peel the cucumbers, cut them into J-inch slices, sprinkle
them liberally with salt, and let them remain until the following day.
Let the cucumber drain for at least 2 hours on a hair sieve, then
place in wide-necked glass bottles. Boil the vinegar, salt, pepper-
corns and spice together, pour it while hot over the cucumber, and
cover closely. If stored in a cool, dry place this pickle will keep good
for some time, but as it is liable to become mouldy the bottles should be
frequently examined. When the first speck of mould appears re-boil
the vinegar, immerse the slices of cucumber in it for 1 minute, then
put them into a clean dry bottle, and pour the boiling vinegar over
them.
Time. — 2 days. Average Cost, 6d. each.
2627. — CUCUMBERS, PRESERVED.
Ingredients. — Cucumbers, salt.
Method. — Pare and slice the cucumbers thinly, sprinkle liberally with
salt, and let them remain until the following day. Drain off the
liquor, pack the slices closely in jars, sprinkling each layer thickly with
salt, and cover with parchment paper, or paper coated on both sides
with white of egg. When wanted for use, wash well in cold water,
drain well, and dress with pepper, vinegar and oil.
Time. — 24 hours. Average Cost, 6d.
2628. — DAMSONS, PICKLED.
Ingredients. — 7 lbs. of sound, dry damson plums, 4 lbs. of good pre-
serving sugar, of an oz. of stick cinnamon, f- of an oz. of cloves, vinegar
to cover.
Method. — Remove the stalks but not the stems of the fruit, place
them in layers in a large jar, sprinkle each layer with sugar,
cinnamon and cloves. Cover the whole with vinegar, place the
jar in a saucepan of boiling water, cook gently until the juice flows
freely, then put the jar aside until the contents are quite cold.
Then drain the syrup into a stewpan, bring to boiling point, and
pour it over the fruit. Repeat this process for 7 or 8 days, when the
skins should be hard and the plums have a clear appearance. After
the last boiling let the plums remain in the large jar for 7 days, then
transfer them to smaller jars. Boil the syrup, pour it over the plums,
and when cold cover with a bladder or paper brushed over on both sides
with white of egg. Cherries may be pickled in this way. If stored
in a dry, moderately cool pla.ce, they may be kept for years.
Time. — From 14 to 15 days. Average Cost, damsons from 2d. to 6d.
per lb.
RECIPES FOR PRESERVES
1169
2629. — EGGS, PICKLED.
Ingredients. — 16 hard-boiled eggs, 1 quart of good vinegar, \ an oz.
of black peppercorns, \ an oz. of allspice, -J- an oz. of ginger.
Method. — Remove the shells, and arrange the eggs compactly in
wide-necked jars. Boil the peppercorns, spice, and ginger in the vinegar
until some of their flavour is extracted, and pour it whilst boiling hot
over the eggs. When cold, cover closely, and store in a cool, dry
place.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 2s.
Ginger (Fr. gingembre). — The ginger-plant, known to naturalists as zingiber officinale , is a native
of the East and West Indies. It grows somewhat like the lily of the valley, but its height is about 3
feet. In Jamaica it flowers about August or September, fading about the end of the year. The
fleshy creeping roots, which form the ginger of commerce, are in a proper state to be dug when the
stalks are entirely withered. This operation is usually performed in January and February. When
the roots are taken out of the earth, each one is picked, scraped, separately washed, and afterwards
very carefully dried. Ginger is generally considered as less pungent and heating to the system than
might be expected from its effects on the organs of taste, and it is frequently used, with considerable
effect, as an anti-spasmodic and carminative.
2630. — EXCELLENT PICKLE (For Immediate Use).
Ingredients. — Equal quantities of sliced onion, cucumber and sour
apple, salt and cayenne to taste. To a pint of vinegar add i wine-
glassful each of sherry and soy.
Method. — Place the onion, cucumber and apple in a dish in alternate
layers, add salt and cayenne to taste, and pour over the vinegar, etc.
Let the pickle stand for a few hours before serving.
2631. — FRENCH BEANS, PICKLED.
Ingredients. — Young French beans, spiced vinegar {see Vinegar,
Spiced, No. 2704), some vine leaves, and salt.
Method. Cover the beans with strong salt and water, let them remain
for three days, then drain. Place them in a saucepan with vine leaves
under and over, cover with boiling salted water, cook gently for a few
minutes, then drain and pack loosely in jars. Cover with boiling
spiced vinegar, drain it off, and reboil on two following days. The
pickled beans should be kept closely covered in a cool, dry place.
2632. — GHERKINS, PICKLED.
Ingredients. — Gherkins, vinegar to cover. To each quart of vinegar
allow of an oz. of allspice, £ of an oz. of black peppercorns, 4 cloves,
2 blades of mace.
Method. — Cover the gherkins with salt and water, and let them remain
in the brine for 3 days. At the end of the time drain them well, dry
them with a cloth, and pack them compactly in a jar of suitable size.
Boil sufficient vinegar to cover them, with peppercorns and spices in
the above proportions, for 10 minutes, and pour the liquid over the
1170
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
gherkins. Cover closely, let the jar stand in a warm place until the
following day, then drain off the vinegar into a saucepan. Boil up,
pour the vinegar at once over the gherkins, and let them remain covered
until the following day. This process must be repeated daily until the
gherkins are sufficiently green; they should then be put into wide-
necked glass bottles, covered completely with vinegar, for which pur-
pose it may be necessary to supplement that already used. They
should be tightly corked before being stored away.
Time. — 5 or 6 days. Average Cost, uncertain, as they are rarely
sold.
2633. — HORSERADISH, PICKLED.
Ingredients. — Horseradish, vinegar.
Method. — Scrape the outer skin off the horseradish, cut it into ^-inch
lengths, and place them in wide-necked bottles or small unglazed jars.
Cover with good malt vinegar, cork the bottles tightly or fasten parch-
ment paper securely over the tops of the jars. Keep the pickle in a
cool, dry place.
Average Cost. — Horseradish, 2d. to 3d. per stick,
2634. — INDIAN MAIZE, PICKLED.
Ingredients. — -Green corn, spiced vinegar (see recipe for Vinegar,
Spiced, No. 2704), salt.
Method. — Boil the corn in salt and water, drain well, and cover with
spiced vinegar. When cold, fasten down securely, and store in a dry,
cool place.
2635. — INDIAN PICKLE.
Ingredients. — To each gallon of vinegar allow 6 cloves of garlic, 12
shallots, 2 sticks of sliced horseradish, J of a lb. of bruised ginger,
2 ozs. of whole black pepper, 1 oz. of long pepper, 1 oz. of allspice,
12 cloves, \ of an oz. of cayenne, 2 ozs. of mustard seed, J of a lb. of
mustard, 1 oz. of turmeric, a white cabbage, cauliflowers, radish pods,
French beans, gherkins, small round pickling onions, nasturtiums,
capsicums, chillies, etc.
Method. — Cut the cabbage, which must be hard and white, into slices,
and the cauliflowers into small branches; sprinkle salt over them in a
large dish, and let them remain for 2 days. Then dry the vegetables,
and put them into a very large jar, with garlic, shallots, horseradish,
ginger, pepper, allspice, and cloves in the above proportions. Boil
sufficient vinegar to cover the ingredients, and pour it over them,
and, when cold, cover closely. As the other materials for the pickle
ripen at different times, they may be added as they are ready; these
will be radish pods, French beans, gherkins, small onions, nasturtiums,
RECIPES FOR PRESERVES
1171
capsicums, chillies, etc., etc. As these are procured they must, first
of all, be washed in a little cold vinegar, wiped, and then simply added
to the other ingredients in the large jar, only taking care that they
are covered by the vinegar. If it should be necessary to add more
vinegar to the pickle, do not omit to boil it before adding it to the rest.
When all the things required are collected, turn all out into a large
pan, thoroughly mix them, put the mixed vegetables into smaller
jars, without any of the vinegar, then boil the vinegar again, adding
as much more as will be required to fill the different jars, also cayenne,
mustard-seed, turmeric, and mustard, which must be well mixed
with a little cold vinegar, allowing the quantities named above to each
gallon of vinegar. Pour the vinegar, boiling hot, over the pickle, and,
when cold, tie down with a bladder. If the pickle is wanted for immedi-
ate use, the vinegar should be boiled twice more, but the better plan
is to make it during one season for use during the next. This pickle
will keep for years, if care is taken that the vegetables are quite covered
by the vinegar.
2636. -LEMON PICKLE.
Ingredients. — 12 lemons, 1 lb. of baysalt, 4 ozs. of mustard-seed (tied
in muslin), 2 ozs. of garlic peeled, ^ an oz. of grated nutmeg, \ an oz.
of ground mace, ^ of an oz. of ground cloves, 1 quart of white-wine
vinegar.
Method. — Remove the rinds of the lemons in thin slices, and put them
aside to be afterwards dried and used for flavouring purposes. Leave
all the pith on the lemons, cut them lengthwise and across, thus forming
4 quarters, sprinkle over them the salt, and place them singly on a large
dish. Let the dish remain near the fire until all the juice of the lemons
has dried into the pith, then put them into a large jar. Add the rest
of the ingredients, cover closely, and let it stand near the fire, but not
on the stove, for 5 days. At ^he end of the time, cover the lid with
parchment paper or bladder, and put the jar in a cool, dry place. At
the end of 3 months strain off the vinegar through a hair sieve, and press
the fruit well to extract as much moisture as possible. Strain 2 or 3
times, and, when quite clear, bottle for use.
Average Cost. — 2s. qd.
2637. — LEMONS, PICKLED.
Ingredients. —12 lemons, vinegar to cover them. To each quart of
vinegar allow 1 oz. of mustard-seed, 1 oz. of whole ginger, \ an oz. of
peppercorns, \ an oz. of cloves, \ of an oz. of mace, \ of an oz. of chillies.
Method. — Make a brine strong enough to float an egg, put in the
lemons, allow them to remain immersed for 6 days, stirring them 2 or 3
times daily. At the end of this time, put the lemons into a saucepan
of boiling water, boil steadily for 15 minutes, then drain well, allow
1172
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
them to become quite cold, and put them into jars. Boil the vinegar,
spices, etc., together until sufficiently seasoned and flavoured, then pour
the mixture, boiling hot, over the lemons, and cover closely. They will
be ready for use in 6 months, and should in the meantime be kept in a
cool, dry place. Average Cost. — Lemons* from is. to is. 6d.
2638. — LEMONS, PICKLED. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 12 lemons, salt, vinegar to cover. To each quart of
vinegar allow 1 oz. of mustard-seed, 1 oz. of whole ginger, \ an oz. of
peppercorns, \ an oz. of cloves, \ of an oz. of mace, of an oz. of chillies.
Method. — Peel the lemons, slit each one lengthwise in 3 or 4 places,
and sprinkle the cut surfaces thickly with salt. Place them in an
earthenware pan, sprinkle them liberally with salt, and turn them daily
for a week. At the end of this time, place the lemons singly on a large
dish, let them remain near the fire until quite dry, and put them into
jars. Boil the vinegar, peppercorns, etc., together as in the preceding
recipe, pour while boiling over the lemons, and cover closely. Store in a
cool, dry place for about 6 months, when they should be ready for use.
2639. — LIMES, PICKLED. ( See Lemons, Pickled,
No. 2636.)
2640. — MANGOES, PICKLED.
Ingredients. — Mangoes, green ginger sliced, mustard seed, garlic
bruised, spiced vinegar ( see recipe for Vinegar, Spiced, No. 2704).
Method. — Halve and stone the mangoes, stuff them with a mixture
of ginger, mustard seed and garlic, replace the halves, and fasten them
securely with strong cotton. Cover the mangoes with boiling spiced
vinegar. On the following day strain off the vinegar, reboil, and
repeat the process on the two following days, four times in all. When
cold, turn the preparation into jars,t cover closely, and store in a
dry, cool place.
2641. ' MELONS, PICKLED.
Ingredients. — Small melons, small French beans, grated horseradish,
cloves, ground nutmeg, cinnamon, pepper, vinegar, and to each quart
add 1 teaspoonful each of cloves, allspice and black peppercorns.
Method. — Cut off one end, scoop out the inside of each melon, then
replace and secure the end. Cover the melons with strong brine,
let them remain undisturbed for 4 days, then drain and dry well.
Sprinkle the inside of each melon liberally with cloves, cinnamon,
nutmeg and pepper, and stuff them with well-seasoned French beans
and horseradish. Replace, and tie on the ends, and pack the melons
in a large jar, keeping the cut ends uppermost. Boil the vinegar and
spices together for 10 minutes, and, when cold, pour the liquid over the
RECIPES FOR PRESERVES
ii73
melons. On three consecutive days reboil the vinegar, and ponr it
boiling over the melons. When cold, cover closely, and store in a cool,
dry place.
2642. — MIXED PICKLES.
Ingredients. — To each gallon of vinegar allow \ of a lb. of bruised
ginger, \ of a lb. of mustard, \ of a lb. of salt, 2 ozs. of mustard-seed,
1-0- ozs. of turmeric, 1 oz. of ground black pepper, \ of an oz. of cayenne,
cauliflowers, onions, celery, gherkins, French beans, nasturtiums,
capsicums.
Method. — Have a large jar, with a tight-fitting lid, in which put as
much vinegar as required, reserving a little to mix the various powders
to a smooth paste. Put into a basin the mustard, turmeric, pepper and
cayenne; mix them with vinegar, and stir well until no lumps remain;
add all the ingredients to the vinegar, and mix well. Keep this liquor
in a warm place, and thoroughly stir it every morning for 1 month
with a wooden spoon, when it will be ready for the different vegetables
to be added to it. As these come in season, have them gathered on a
dry day, and after merely wiping them with a cloth, to free them from
moisture, put them into the pickle. The cauliflowers must be divided
into small bunches. Put all these into the pickle raw, and at the end
of the season, when as many of the vegetables as could be procured
have been added, store the pickle away in jars, and tie over with
bladder. This old-fashioned method of preserving vegetables is largely
employed by those who live in the country. The pickle should be
kept for at least 3 months in a cool, dry place before being used.
2643. — MIXED PICKLES.
Ingredients. — An equal weight of small mild onions, sour apples and
cucumbers, vinegar to cover. To each pint of vinegar add 2 table-
spoonfuls of sherry, 1 teaspoonful of salt, \ a teaspoonful of pepper,
a good pinch of cayenne.
Method. — Peel and slice the onions, apples and cucumbers thinly,
put them into wide-necked bottles, add the seasoning and sherry, cover
with vinegar, and cork closely. This pickle may be used the following
day, and should not be kept for any length of time.
2644. — MIXED PICKLES. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of onions, 1 lb. of apples, of a lb. of chillies, i-|-
pints of white-wine vinegar, 1 good tablespoonful of salt.
Method.- — Chop the onions and apples coarsely, and the chillies finely.
Boil the vinegar, add the salt, and when dissolved pour over the pre-
pared ingredients. Turn into small jars, and, when cold, cover closely.
Average Cost. — is. iod.
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1174
2645. — MUSHROOMS, PICKLED.
Ingredients. — 1 quart of button mushrooms, 1 quart of vinegar, 1 oz.
of bruised whole ginger, \ an oz. of white peppercorns, 3 blades of mace,
salt to taste.
Method. — Wash, dry, and peel the mushrooms, and cut off the tops
of the stalks. Place them in a stewpan, sprinkle salt over them, shake
them over the fire until the liquor flows, and keep them on the stove
uncovered until the greater part of the moisture has evaporated. Then
add the vinegar, peppercorns, etc., bring to the boil, and simmer gently
for 10 minutes. Turn into jars, cover closely, and store in a cool,
dry place.
Average Cost. — is. iod. to 2s. 6d.
2646. — MUSHROOMS, PICKLED. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 1 quart of button mushrooms, 1 quart of vinegar,
1 oz. of whole ginger, \ an oz. of white peppercorns, a good pinch of
cayenne.
Method. — Cut off the tips of the stalks, rub off the outer skin with a
piece of new flannel occasionally dipped in salt, rinse the mushrooms
in salt and water, and dry them well. Boil the vinegar, pepper and
spices together until pleasantly seasoned and flavoured, then put in
the mushrooms and simmer them gently for 10 minutes. Put into
jars; when cold cover closely, and store in a cool, dry place.
Average Cost. — is. iod. to 2s. 6d.
2647. — NASTURTIUM SEEDS, PICKLED.
Ingredients. — Nasturtium seeds, vinegar to cover them. To each
pint of vinegar add \ an oz. of salt, 6 peppercorns.
Method.' — Boil the vinegar, salt and peppercorns together, and, when
cold, strain it into a wide-necked bottle. Gather the seeds on a dry
day, put them into the vinegar, and cork closely. These pickled seeds
form an excellent substitute for capers. They are ready for use in
about 3 months, but may be kept for a much longer time.
Nasturtiums. — The elegant nasturtium-plant, called by botanists Tropaeolum, and which sometimes
goes by the name of Indian cress — an American climbing annual with bright orange-coloured flowers —
came originally from Peru, but was easily acclimatized in these islands. Its young leaves and flowers
are of a slightly hot nature, and many consider them a good adjunct to salads, to which they certainly
add a pretty appearance. When the beautiful blossoms, which may be employed with great effect
in garnishing dishes, are off, then the fruit is used as described in the above recipe.
2648. — ONIONS, PICKLED.
Ingredients. — 1 gallon of pickling onions, salt and water, milk. To
each \ gallon of vinegar add 1 oz. of bruised ginger, J of a teaspoonful
of cayenne, 1 oz. of allspice, 1 oz. of whole black pepper, of an oz.
of whole nutmeg bruised, and cloves, \ of an oz. of mace.
RECIPES FOR PRESERVES
ii75
Method. — Gather the onions, which should not be too small, when
they are quite dry and ripe; wipe off the dirt, but do not pare them.
Make a strong solution of salt and water, into which put the onions,
change the brine morning and night, for 3 days, and save the last brine
the onions are put in. Then take off the outside skin, and put them
into a tin saucepan capable of holding them all, as they are always
better if pickled together. Now take equal quantities of milk and the
last salt and water the onions were in, and pour this on to them. To
this liquid add 2 large spoonfuls of salt, put the onions over the fire
and watch them very attentively. Keep constantly turning the onions
about with a wooden skimmer, those at the bottom to the top, and vice
versa, and let the milk and water run through the holes of the skimmer.
Remember the onions must never boil, otherwise they will be useless;
and they should be quite transparent. Keep the onions stirred for a
few minutes, and, in stirring, be particular not to break them. Then
have ready a pan with a colander, into which turn the onions to drain,
covering with a cloth to keep in the steam. Place on a table an old
cloth folded 2 or 3 times ; put the onions on it when quite hot, and
cover them closely over with an old piece of blanket to keep in the
steam. Let the onions remain until the next day, when they will
be quite cold, and look yellow and shrivelled; take off the shrivelled
skins, when they should be as white as snow. Put them
in a pan, make a pickle of vinegar and the remaining ingredients,
boil all up together, and pour the hot mixture over the onions
in the pan. Cover very closely to keep in all the steam, and let them
stand until the following day, when they will be quite cold. Put them
into jars or bottles, with a tablespoonful of the best olive-oil on the
top of each bottle or jar. Tie the onions down with bladder, and let
them stand in a cool place for a month or 6 weeks, when they will be
fit for use. They should be beautifully white and eat crisp, without
the least softness, and will keep good many months.
Average Cost. — 2s. 6d. to 3s.
2649. — ONIONS, PICKLED. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — Pickling onions; to each quart of vinegar add 2 tea-
spoonfuls of allspice, 2 teaspoonfuls of whole black pepper.
Method. — Have the onions gathered when quite dry and ripe, and,
with the fingers, take off the thin outside skin; then with a silver knife
(steel should not be used, as it spoils the colour of the onions), remove
one more skin, when the onions will look quite clear. Have ready
some very dry bottles or jars, and as fast as the onions are peeled put
them in. Pour over sufficient cold vinegar to cover them, with pepper
and allspice in the above proportions, taking care that each jar has its
share of the latter ingredients. Tie down with the bladder, and put
them in a dry place, and in a fortnight they will be ready for use.
1176
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
2650. — ONIONS, PICKLED. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — Silver onions, white wine vinegar to cover.
Method. — Remove the skins, throw the onions a few at a time into
a saucepan of boiling water, taking care to have no more than will form
a single layer floating on the surface of the water. As soon as the
onions look clear on the outside take them up as quickly as possible
with a slice, fold them in a clean dry cloth, so as to keep in the steam,
and allow them to remain closely covered until the whole have been
scalded. Let the onions be until quite cold, then put them into bottles
or jars, and pour over them the vinegar, which should previously have
been boiled and allowed to cool slightly. When cold, cover closely,
and store in a cool, dry place.
2651. — OYSTERS, PICKLED.
Blanch the oysters in their own liquor, but in other details follow
directions for Cockles, Pickled, No. 2625.
2652. — PICCALILLI.
Ingredients. — Cauliflowers, onions, gherkins, French beans, capsicums,
spiced vinegar ( see recipe for Vinegar, Spiced, No. 2704), mustard,
turmeric, curry powder.
Method. — Divide the vegetables into convenient pieces, throw them
into boiling brine sufficiently strong to float an egg, and cook for 3
minutes. Drain well, spread them on large dishes, and let them
remain in the sun until perfectly dry. Prepare the vinegar as directed
and add % an oz. each of turmeric and curry powder to each quart of
vinegar. Also allow to each quart of vinegar 1 oz. of mustard, which
must be mixed smoothly with a little cold vinegar, and afterwards
stirred into the boiling vinegar, but not allowed to boil. Place the
prepared vegetables in jars, cover them completely with vinegar, and,
when quite cold, cover closely.
2653. — RADISH-PODS, PICKLED.
Ingredients. — Young radish pods, spiced vinegar ( see recipe for
Vinegar, Spiced, No. 2704), grated horseradish.
Method. — Cover the pods with strong brine, let them remain for 12
hours, then drain the brine into a saucepan, and boil up. Pouf the
boiling brine over the pods, cover closely with a close-fitting lid or
plate, let them remain undisturbed for 48 hours, then repeat the boiling
process. Repeat again and again until the pods are perfectly green,
then drain until they are quite dry, and pack them loosely in jars.
Add 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of grated horseradish to the prepared vinegar,
pour it boiling over the pods, and cover closely. On the following day
strain, boil and replace the vinegar, and, when quite cold, tie down
securely and store in a dry, cool place.
RECIPES FOR PRESERVES
ii 77
2654. — SPANISH ONIONS, PICKLED.
Ingredients. — Medium sized onions, vinegar, salt, cayenne.
Method. — Peel the onions, slice them thinly, place them in a large
jar, and sprinkle each layer liberally with salt, and lightly with cayenne
pepper. Cover the whole with vinegar, exclude the air by means of a
bladder, or paper brushed over on both sides with white of egg, and
store in a cool, dry place. The pickle will be ready for use in 10 or
14 days.
2655. — TOMATOES, PICKLED.
Ingredients. — Small firm tomatoes, spiced vinegar ( see recipe for
Vinegar, Spiced, No. 2704), moist sugar.
Method. — Prepare the vinegar as directed, and to each quart add 1
dessertspoonful of sugar. Pack the tomatoes loosely in a large jar, cover
them with boiling vinegar, and put on a close-fitting lid or plate to
keep in the steam. Tie down to completely exclude the air. This
pickle will only keep for a short time.
2656. — TOMATOES AND ONIONS, PICKLED.
Ingredients. — An equal weight of firm tomatoes and medium-sized
Spanish onions, vinegar to cover. To each pint of vinegar allow 1
tea.spoonful of peppercorns, a teaspoonful of allspice, ^ a teaspoonful
of salt.
Method. — Peel the onions, place them, with the tomatoes, compactly
in a stewpan, add the salt, allspice and peppercorns, tied together in
muslin, cover with vinegar, and simmer very gently for 5 or 6 hours.
Turn into wide-necked bottles or jars, when cold cover closely, and
store in a cool, dry place.
2657. — VEGETABLE MARROWS, PICKLED.
Ingredients. — Vegetable marrows, vinegar to cover. To each quart
of vinegar add 4 ozs. of sugar, 1} ozs. of ginger broken into small pieces,
ij ozs. of dry mustard, \ an oz. of turmeric, 6 chillies, 1 clove of garlic
finely chopped.
Method. — Boil the vinegar with the seasoning and flavouring in-
gredients until some of their strength and flavour is extracted. Mean-
while pare the marrows, cut them into 2-inch pieces, and remove
the seeds. Add them to the boiling vinegar, cook gently for about
10 minutes, and turn into a large basin or earthenware pan. When
quite cold lift the pieces of marrow carefully into wide-necked bottles
or unglazed jars, pour in the vinegar, and cover closely. The pickle
will be ready in 2 or 3 weeks, and should be kept in a cool, dry atmo-
sphere.
1178 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
2658. — WALNUTS, PICKLED.
Ingredients. — Green walnuts, vinegar to cover them. To each quart
of vinegar allow 1 oz. of peppercorns, 1 oz. of allspice, 1 teaspoonful of
salt.
Method. — Prick the walnuts well with a steel fork or large darning
needle, put them into an earthenware bowl or pan, and cover them with
strong cold brine, previously made by boiling the necessary quantity
of water with the addition of 4 ozs. of salt to each quart of water.
Stir the walnuts 2 or 3 times daily for 6 days, then drain them and cover
with fresh brine. Let them remain 3 days, then again drain them,
spread them on large dishes, and place them in the sun until quite black.
Have ready some wide-necked bottles or unglazed jars, and three-
quarters fill these with walnuts. Boil sufficient vinegar to cover them,
with peppercorns, allspice and salt as stated above, for 15 minutes, and
when quite cold pour the mixture over the walnuts. If closely covered,
and stored in a dry, cool place, they may be kept for months.
2659. — WALNUTS, PICKLED. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — Green walnuts, vinegar. To 3 pints of vinegar allow
1 oz. of salt and \ an oz. each of allspice, peppercorns, cloves and whole
ginger.
Method. — Wipe the walnuts with a dry cloth, put them into wide-
necked bottles, or unglazed jars, and cover them with cold vinegar.
Cover closely, let them stand in a cool, dry place for 4 months, then
drain off the vinegar. Boil as much fresh vinegar as will cover them,
with the seasonings as stated above, and pour it, while boiling hot,
over the walnuts. Cover closely, and store for 3 weeks in a cool, dry
place, the walnuts will then be ready for use.
Store Sauces, etc.
2660.— ANCHOVIES, ESSENCE OF.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of anchovies, 1 pint of cold water, J of a pint of
good vinegar, 1 saltspoonful of ground mace, 1 saltspoonful of cayenne.
Method. — Pound the anchovies in a mortar until smooth, and pass
them through a fine sieve. Put the parts that will not pass through the
sieve into a stewpan, add any liquor there may be in the bottles from
which the anchovies were taken, the mace, cayenne, and water, simmer
gently for \ an hour, then strain, and mix it with the anchovy puree.
Return the mixture to the stewpan, bring to boiling point, add the
RECIPES FOR PRESERVES
ZI7 9
vinegar, simmer very gently for io minutes longer, and when quite
cold pour into small bottles. Cork securely, cover the corks with
melted wax, and store for use in a cool, dry place.
2661. — ANCHOVY KETCHUP.
Ingredients. — 1 quart of good ale, J of a lb. of anchovies, 3 finely-
chopped shallots, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, \ a teaspoonful
of castor sugar, \ a teaspoonful of ground ginger, \ of a teaspoonful of
ground mace, 2 cloves.
Method. — Put all these ingredients into a stewpan, simmer very gently
for about 1 hour, and strain. When quite cold, pour the ketchup into
small bottles, cork them tightly, and store in a cool, dry place.
2662. — CARRACK SAUCE. (For Cold Meat.)
Ingredients. — 1 quart of vinegar, 5 dessertspoonfuls of mushroom
ketchup, 5 dessertspoonfuls of soy, 8 dessertspoonfuls of coarsely
chopped pickled walnuts, 3 dessertspoonfuls of coarsely chopped
mango pickle, \ an oz. of garlic bruised, 1 5 anchovies finely chopped.
Method. — Mix all the ingredients together in a bottle, let it remain
in a warm place, and shake it daily for a month, when it will be ready
for use.
2663. — CAMP VINEGAR.
Ingredients. — 1 head of garlic, \ an oz. of cayenne, 2 teaspoonfuls of
soy, 2 teaspoonfuls of walnut ketchup, 1 pint of vinegar, cochineal to
colour.
Method. — Slice the garlic, and put it, with all the above ingredients,
into a clean bottle. Let it stand to infuse for 1 month, then strain
it off quite clear, and it will be fit for use. Keep it in small bottles,
well sealed to exclude the air.
2664. CELERY VINEGAR.
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of finely shredded celery, or \ an oz. of celery
seed, 1 pint of good pickling vinegar, 1 level teaspoonful of salt.
Method. — Boil the vinegar, dissolve the salt in it, and pour the mixture
over the celery or celery seed. When cold, cover and let it remain
undisturbed for 3 weeks, then strain into small bottles, cork securely,
and store for use. Average Cost, yd.
2665. — CRESS VINEGAR.
Ingredients. — \ an oz. of cress seed, 1 quart of vinegar.
Method. — Bruise the seed in a mortar, and put it into the vinegar,
previously boiled and allowed to grow cold. Let it infuse for a fort-
night, then strain and bottle for use.
n8o
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
2666. — CHEROKEE.
Ingredients. — 1 quart of best malt vinegar, 8 tablespoonfuls of walnut
ketchup, 4 tablespoonfuls of soy, 1 oz. of cayenne, 3 cloves of garlic
finely-minced.
Method. — Put these ingredients into a large bottle, cork tightly,
and let them remain undisturbed for 1 month. At the end of this
time, strain the liquid into small bottles, keep them well corked, and
store in a dry, cool place.
2667. — CHILLI VINEGAR.
Ingredients. — 50 fresh chillies, 1 pint of good pickling vinegar.
Method. — Cut the chillies in halves. Boil the vinegar, let it become
quite cold, then pour it over the chilies. Cork closely, and store for
use. Average Cost, is. 4d. per quart.
2668. — CUCUMBER KETCHUP.
Ingredients. — Cucumbers, salt, peppercorns.
Method. — Pare the cucumbers, slice them as thinly as possible into
a basin, and sprinkle them liberally with salt. Let them remain
closely covered until the following day, then strain the liquor from the
cucumbers into a stewpan, add 1 teaspoonful of peppercorns to each
pint, and simmer gently for about \ an hour. When cold, strain into
bottles, cork tightly, and store in a cool, dry place. This ketchup
imparts an agreeable flavour to sweetbreads, calf’s brains, chicken
mixtures, and other delicate preparations.
2669. — CUCUMBER VINEGAR.
Ingredients. — Cucumbers, vinegar to cover them. To each pint of
vinegar allow 2 shallots, 1 clove of garlic, 1 teaspoonful of white pepper-
corns, 1 teaspoonful of salt.
Method. — Boil the vinegar, salt and peppercorns together, for 20
minutes, and allow the mixture to become quite cold. Slice the
cucumbers without paring them, into a wide-necked bottle or jar,
add the shallots and garlic, and the vinegar when cold. Let the
preparation remain closely covered for 14 days, then strain off into
smaller bottles, cork tightly, and store in a cool, dry place.
2670. — ESCAVEEKE SAUCE.
Ingredients. — 1 quart of French white-wine vinegar, the finely-grated
rinds of 2 lemons, 12 shallots, 4 cloves of garlic, 2 tablespoonfuls of
coriander seed, 1 teaspoonful of ground ginger, 1 teaspoonful of salt,
I level teaspoonful of cayenne.
RECIPES FOR PRESERVES
1181
Method. — Pound all the dry ingredients well together, and put them
into an earthenware vessel. Boil the vinegar, and add it, boiling hot,
to the pounded preparation. When quite cold, pour into small bottles,
cork tightly, and store for use.
2671. — GARLIC VINEGAR. ( See Shallot Vinegar,
No. 2691.)
2672. — HARVEY SAUCE.
Ingredients. — 1 quart of good vinegar, 3 anchovies, 1 tablespoonful of
soy, 1 tablespoonful of walnut ketchup, 1 finely-chopped shallot,
1 finely-chopped clove of garlic, \ of an oz. of cayenne, a few drops of
cochineal.
Method. — Cut each anchovy into 3 or 4 pieces, place them in a wide-
necked bottle or unglazed jar, add the shallots, garlic, and the rest
of the ingredients, and cover closely. Let the jar stand for 14 days,
during which time the contents must be either shaken or stirred at
least once a day. At the end of this time strain into small bottles,
cork them securely, and store the sauce in a cool, dry place.
2673. — HERB POWDER. ( See To Dry Herbs for
Winter Use, No. 2695.)
2674. — HERB SAUCE.
Ingredients. — 1 stick of horseradish, 2 finely-chopped shallots, a few
sprigs each of winter savory, basil, marjoram, thyme, tarragon, 6
cloves, the finely-pared rind and juice of 1 lemon, 2 tablespoonfuls of
good vinegar, 1 pint of water.
Method. — Wash and scrape the horseradish, and' remove the stalks
of the herbs. Put all the ingredients together in a stewpan, simmer
gently for 20 minutes, then strain, and, when quite cold, pour into small
bottles. Cork securely and store for use.
2675. — HORSERADISH VINEGAR.
Ingredients. — 8 ozs. of grated horseradish, 1 tablespoonful of finely-
chopped shallots, 1 heaped teaspoonful of salt, a teaspoonful of cay-
enne, 4 pints of good malt vinegar.
Method. — Mix the horseradish, shallots, salt and cayenne together,
boil the vinegar and pour it over them, cover closely, and allow the
vessel to stand in a warm, but not hot, place for 10 days. Strain the
vinegar into a stew-pan, bring to boiling point, let it cool, then pour into
small bottles, cork closely, and store in a cool, dry place.
Il82
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
2676. — INDIAN CURRY POWDER.
Ingredients. — \ of a lb. of coriander seed, \ of a lb. of turmeric, 2 ozs.
of cinnamon seed, \ an oz. of cayenne, 1 oz. of mustard, 1 oz. of ground
ginger, \ an oz. of allspice, 2 ozs. of fenugreek-seed.
Method. — Put all the ingredients in a cool oven, where they should
remain for 1 night. Then pound them in a mortar, rub them through
a sieve, and mix thoroughly together. Keep the powder in a bottle,
from which the air should be completely excluded.
2677. — INDIAN MUSTARD.
Ingredients. — J of a lb. of mustard, J of a lb. of flour, \ an oz. of salt,
4 shallots chopped, 4 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 4 tablespoonfuls of
mushroom ketchup, 2 tablespoonfuls of anchovy sauce.
Method. — Put the mustard, flour and salt into a basin, and mix them
into a smooth paste with hot water. Boil the shallots with the vinegar,
ketchup and anchovy sauce for 10 minutes, then add the blended flour,
etc., and stir and simmer gently for 2 or 3 minutes. When quite cold
pour the preparation into small bottles, cork them tightly, and store
in a cool, dry place.
2678. — KETCHUP. ( See Mushroom Ketchup, No. 2682,
and Walnut Ketchup, No. 2705.)
2679. — KETCHUP, PONTAC.
Ingredients. — Ripe elderberries, anchovies, shallots, vinegar, cloves,
mace, peppercorns.
Method. — Remove the stalks, place the berries in a jar, cover them
with vinegar, cook in a moderately hot oven for 3 hours, then strain
and measure the vinegar. To each quart add \ a lb. of coarsely
chopped anchovies, 1 oz. of chopped shallots, 6 cloves, 1 blade of mace,
and 24 peppercorns. Simmer gently for 1 hour, then strain and bottle
for use.
Time. — About 4 hours. Average Cost, 2s. per quart, exclusive of the
elderberries.
2680. — LEAMINGTON SAUCE.
Ingredients. — 1 pint of walnut juice ( see No. 2705), 3 pints of good
vinegar, \ a pint of soy, 1 oz. of finely-chopped shallots, \ an oz. of
cayenne, -J- an oz. of garlic, \ of a pint of port.
Method. — Extract the juice from the walnuts as described in Recipe
No. 2705. Pound the shallots, garlic and cayenne well together, add
them to the walnut-juice with the rest of the ingredients, and mix all
well together. Pour into small bottles, cork tightly, and store for use.
RECIPES FOR PRESERVES
1183
2681. — MINT VINEGAR.
Ingredients. — Vinegar, mint.
Method. — The mint for this purpose must be young and fresh. Pick
the leaves from the stalks, and fill a bottle or jar with them. Cover
with cold vinegar, cover closely, and let the mint infuse for 14 days.
Then strain the liquor into small bottles, cork securely, and store for
use.
2682. — MUSHROOM KETCHUP.
Ingredients. — 7 lbs. of flap mushrooms, \ a lb. of salt. To 1 quart of
mushroom liquor add \ an oz. of allspice, \ an oz. of ground ginger,
j of a teaspoonful of pounded mace, \ of a teaspoonful of cayenne.
Method. — Mushrooms intended for this purpose should be gathered
on a dry day, otherwise the ketchup will not keep. Trim the tips of
the stalks, but do not wash nor peel the mushrooms; simply rub any
part not quite clean with a little salt. Place them in a large jar,
sprinkling each layer liberally with salt. Let them remain for 3 days,
stirring them at least 3 times daily. At the end of that time, cook
them very gently either on the stove or in a cool oven, until the juice
flows freely, then strain the mushrooms through a clean cloth, and
drain well, but do not squeeze them.
Replace the liquor in the jar, add allspice, ginger, cayenne and mace
as stated above, place the jar in a saucepan of boiling water, and cook
very gently for 3 hours. Strain 2 or 3 times through fine muslin when
quite cold, pour into small bottles, cork securely, and store for use.
How to Distinguish Mushrooms from Toadstools. — The cultivated mushroom, known as
A garicus campcstris , may be distinguished from the poisonous kinds of fungi by its having pink or
flesh-coloured gills, or under side, and by its having invariably an agreeable smell, which the toadstool
has not. When young, mushrooms are iike a small round button, both the stalk and head being white.
As they grow larger they expand their heads by degrees into a flat form, the gills underneath being
first of a pale flesh colour, but becoming, as they stand longer, dark-brown or blackish. Nearly
all the poisonous kinds are brown, and have in general a rank and putrid smell. Edible mushrooms
are found in closely fed pastures, but seldom grow in woods, where most of the poisonous sorts
flourish.
2683. —MUSHROOM POWDER.
Ingredients. — \ a peck of large mushrooms, 2 onions, 12 cloves, 1 of an
oz. of pounded mace, 2 teaspoonfuls of white pepper.
Method. — Peel the mushrooms, wipe them perfectly free from grit,
remove the black fur, and reject all those that are at all worm-eaten.
Put them into a stewpan with the above ingredients, but without
water; shake them over a clear fire until all the liquor is dried up, but
be careful not to let them burn. Arrange them on tins, dry them in a
slow oven, pound them to a fine powder, which put into small, dry
bottles, and cork well. Seal the corks, and keep it in a dry place. In
using this powder, add it to the gravy just before serving, when it will
merely require to be boiled up.
1184
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
2684. MUSTAPHA, OR LIVER KETCHUP.
Ingredients. — 1 beef liver, 1 gallon of water, 1 oz. of ginger, 1 oz. of
allspice, 2 oz. of whole black pepper, 2 lbs. of salt.
Method. — Roll the salt, rub it well into a very fresh beef liver, and
place it in a vessel without crushing. Turn and rub it thoroughly daily
for 10 days. Mince it into small dice, and boil in a gallon of water,
closely covered until reduced to three quarts. Strain through a sieve,
put it aside until the following day, then add the pepper, allspice, and
ginger, and boil slowly until reduced to three pints. When cold,
bottle, and keep well corked.
2685. — PIQUANT SAUCE.
Ingredients. — 100 green walnuts, 5 or 6 lbs. of flap mushrooms, vinegar.
To each pint of vinegar allow \ a glass of port, 1 glass of claret, 1 tea-
spoonful of soy, 6 shallots, 1 clove of garlic, \ a teaspoonful of ground
ginger, \ a teaspoonful of mustard-seed, \ of a teaspoonful of allspice,
2 cloves, 1 blade of mace, \ of a saltspoonful of cayenne.
Method. — Place the mushrooms and walnuts in separate earthenware
bowls or pans, bruise them well with a pestle or wooden potato-masher,
or, failing these, a heavy wooden spoon, and sprinkle them lightly with
salt. Let them lie for a week. Turn and bruise them daily, then drain
off the liquor, and squeeze the pulp as dry as possible. As a rule the
quantity of juice thus obtained from the walnuts and mushrooms is
nearly equal. Mix the two together, and boil gently until the scum,
which must be carefully removed, ceases to rise. Measure the liquid,
return it to the pan with an equal quantity of vinegar, and shallots,
garlic, ginger, mustard-seed, allspice, cloves, mace, and cayenne in the
above-stated proportions. Simmer gently for about \ an hour, skim-
ming well meanwhile, then turn the liquid into an earthenware vessel,
and add the port, claret and soy. When quite cold, pour the sauce
into small bottles, cork closely, and store in a dry, cool place.
2686. — RASPBERRY VINEGAR.
Ingredients. — Raspberries, white wine, vinegar, sugar.
Method. — Cover the raspberries with vinegar, let them remain undis-
turbed for 4 days, then strain through a fine hair sieve, but do not press
the fruit. Pour the vinegar over a fresh lot of raspberries and proceed
as before. Repeat this process two or three times, taking care to
drain each lot thoroughly. Measure the vinegar, to each pint add
from 12 to 16 ozs. of sugar, simmer gently for 10 minutes, skimming
well meanwhile. When quite cold, bottle for use. Or, put equal
measures of raspberries and vinegar into a large jar, stir the mixture
2 or 3 times daily for 10 days, then strain off the vinegar. Measure
it, adding 12 ozs. of sugar to each pint, boil up, skim well, and, when
cold, bottle for use. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. per quart.
RECIPES FOR PRESERVES
I1S5
2687. — READING SAUCE.
Ingredients. — 1 quart of walnut pickle, 1 quart of cold water, \ a pint
of soy, i-J,- ozs. of shallots, \ an oz. of whole ginger bruised, \ an oz. of
capsicums, 1 oz. of mustard seed, \ an oz. of cayenne, £ of an oz. of
bay-leaves, 1 tablespoonful essence of anchovy.
Method. — Peel the shallots, chop them finely, place them in a fire-
proof jar with the liquor strained from the walnuts, and simmer gently
until considerably reduced. In another fireproof jar put the water,
soy, ginger, capsicums, mustard-seed, cayenne, and essence of anchovy,
bring to the boil, and simmer gently for 1 hour. Now mix the con-
tents of the two jars together, and continue the slow cooking for \ an
hour longer. Let the jar remain closely covered in a cool place until
the following day, then add the bay-leaves, replace the cover, and allow
the jar to remain undisturbed for 7 days. At the end of this time,
strain off the liquor into small bottles, and store for use.
2688. - SHALLOT OR GARLIC PICKLE.
Ingredients. — 2 quarts of the best white wine vinegar, a lb. of shallots
or garlic, 2 ozs. of whole ginger, 2 ozs. of chillies, 4 ozs. of mustard seed,
2 ozs. of turmeric.
Method. — Cover the ginger with strong brine made by boiling together
1 pint of water and 6 ozs. of salt, let it remain for 5 days, then slice it
thinly; and dry it in the sun. Peel the shallots or garlic, sprinkle
liberally with salt, and let them remain thus for 3 days. Place the
ginger, shallots, chillies, mustard seed and turmeric in a wide-necked
bottle, pour in the vinegar, cover closely, and store in a dry, cool place.
2689. — SHALLOT SAUCE.
Ingredients. — 1 pint of sherry, 4 ozs. of shallots.
Method. — Skin the shallots, chop them finely, and put them into a
wide-necked bottle. Pour over them the sherry, let them remain
closely corked for 14 days, then strain off the liquor into small bottles.
Cork lightly, and store for use.
2690. — SHALLOT SAUCE. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 1 pint of sherry, 6 ozs. of shallots, -j- of a teaspoonful of
cayenne.
Method. — Skin 4 ozs. of shallots, chop them finely, put them into a
bottle, and add the wine. Keep the bottle well corked for 10 days,
then strain the liquid, replace it in the bottle, add the remaining 2 ozs.
of shallots, peeled, but whole, and the cayenne. Cork securely, store
in a cool, dry place for 6 weeks, then strain the liquid into small bottles,
and store for future use.
n86
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
2691. — SHALLOT VINEGAR.
Ingredients. — 1 quart of good vinegar, 4 ozs. of shallots.
Method. — Remove the skins, chop the shallots finely, and put them
into a. wide-necked bottle. Pour in the vinegar, cork securely, and put
the bottle aside for 10 days, during which time it must be shaken at
least once a day. At the end of this time strain the vinegar through
fine muslin, put it into small bottles, cork closely, and store for use.
2692. — SOY, INDIAN.
This sauce is usually bought ready prepared. It is imported from
China and Japan, where it is made from a small bean, the produce
of Dolichos Soja. Japanese soy is usually preferred to that of China,
because it is free from the sweet treacly flavour which distinguishes
the latter. When well made it has a good brown colour, thick con-
sistence, and is clear.
2693. — SOY, JAPANESE.
Ingredients.- — An equal weight of beans, coarse barley meal, and salt.
Method. — Wash the beans well, boil them in water until tender,
and pound them in a mortar, adding the barley meal gradually. Put
the mass into an earthenware bowl, cover with a cloth, and let it stand
in a warm place for several days, until it is sufficiently fermented,
but not mouldy. To each lb. of salt add 4 pints of water, stir until
the salt is dissolved, then stir it into the fermented mass. Keep the
bowl or pan closely covered for 3 months, during which time it must
be daily stirred for at least 1 hour. At the end of this time strain
through fine cloths, pressing the insoluble portion well, in order to
extract as much of the moisture as possible. Let it stand again until
quite clear, then drain off, and bottle for use.
In making Chinese soy, the liquid extracted is boiled and re-boiled
with a varying amount of sugar, mace, ginger and pepper, until it
acquires the desired consistency.
2694. — TARRAGON VINEGAR.
I ngredients. — T arragon , vinegar.
Method. — Tarragon leaves intended for this purpose should be gath-
ered on a dry day about the end of July, just before the plant begins to
bloom. Remove the stalks, bruise the leaves slightly, put them into
a wide-necked bottle, and cover them with vinegar. Cover closely
so as to completely exclude the air, and let the bottle stand in a cool,
dry place for 7 or 8 weeks. Now strain the liquid through fine muslin
until it is quite clear, put it into small bottles, cork tightly, and store
them in a cool, dry place.
RECIPES FOR PRESERVES
1187
2695. — TO DRY HERBS for winter use.
Gather the herbs on a dry day, just before they begin to flower.
Dry them quickly before or near the fire, then strip the leaves from the
stalks, put them in a moderately-hot oven on baking-tins until crisp,
then rub them between the palms of the hands until reduced to a
powder. Pass through a fine sieve to remove the small stalks, put
into hot, perfectly dry bottles, cork tightly, and store for use. Herbs
are sometimes dried and put into paper bags, but this method is not to
be recommended, for they not only lose much of their flavour, but
they are less easily powdered than when freshly dried.
2696. — TO DRY MUSHROOMS.
Method. — Wipe them with a dry cloth, take away the brown part,
and peel off the skin. Lay them in a cool oven on sheets of paper to
dry, when they will shrivel considerably. Keep them in paper bags
which hang in a dry place. When wanted for use, put them into cold
gravy, bring them gradually to simmer, and it will be found that they
will regain nearly their natural size.
The Mushroom. — The cultivated or garden mushroom is a species of fungus which, in England,
is considered the best, and is there usually eaten. The tribe, however, is numerous, and a large pro-
portion are poisonous ; hence it is always dangerous to make use of mushrooms gathered in their
natural state. In some parts of Europe, as in Germany, Russia and Poland, many species grow wild,
and are used as food ; but in Britain, two species only are generally eaten. These are mostly employed
for the flavouring of dishes, and are also dried and pickled. Catsup, or ketchup, is made from mush-
rooms by mixing spices and salt with their juice. The young, called buttons, are the best for pickling
when in the globular form.
2697. — TO PRESERVE PARSLEY.
Method. — Use freshly-gathered parsley for keeping, wash it per-
fectly free from grit and dirt, put it into boiling water which has
been slightly salted and well skimmed, and then let it boil for 2 or 3
minutes. Take it out, let it drain, and lay it on a sieve in front of the
fire, when it should be dried as expeditiously as possible. Store it
away in a very dry place in bottles, and when wanted for use, pour
over it a little warm water, and let it stand for about 5 minutes.
2698. — TO PRESERVE WALNUTS.
Ingredients. — To every pint of water allow 1 teaspoonful of salt.
Walnuts.
Method. — Place the walnuts in the salt and water for at least 24 hours;
then take them out and rub them dry. Old nuts may be freshened
in this manner; or walnuts, when first picked, may be put into an
earthen pan with salt sprinkled amongst them, and with damped hay
placed on the top and then covered down with a lid. The walnuts
must be well wiped before they are put on the table.
ii88
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
2699. — TOMATO CHOW CHOW.
Ingredients. — 6 large tomatoes, 1 Spanish onion, 1 green capsicum,
2 tablespoonfuls of brown sugar, 1 tablespoonful of salt, £ a pint of
vinegar.
Method.- — Peel and chop the onion coarsely. Blanch the tomatoes,
remove the skins, and slice them finely. Place the onion and tomatoes
in a stewjar, add the capsicum finely-chopped, the sugar, salt and
vinegar, and cook in a slow oven until the onion is quite tender. When
cold turn into small jars or wide-necked bottles, cover closely, and store
in a cool, dry place.
2700. — TOMATO SAUCE.
Ingredients. — To each quart of tomato pulp allow 1 pint of chilli
vinegar, \ of a pint of soy, 1 tablespoonful of anchovy essence, 2 finely-
chopped shallots, 1 finely-chopped clove of garlic, salt to taste.
Method. — Bake the tomatoes in a slow oven until tender, rub them
through a fine sieve, and measure the pulp. Put it into a stewpan,
add the rest of the ingredients, simmer until the shallots and garlic
are quite tender, and pass the whole through a tammy or fine hair
sieve. Store in air-tight bottles.
2701. — TOMATO SAUCE. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 12 large tomatoes, 2 Spanish onions, 1 oz. of salt, \ a
teaspoonful of cayenne, 1 pint of vinegar.
Method. — Peel the onions, slice them thinly, place them in a stew-
jar with the tomatoes, and cook in a slow oven until tender. Pass the
pulp through a fine hair sieve, put it into a stewpan with the vinegar,
salt and cayenne, and simmer gently for 10 minutes. Store for use
in small air-tight bottles.
2702. — TOMATO SAUCE. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 12 large tomatoes, 2 tablespoonfuls of malt vinegar,
1 dessertspoonful of salt, 1 dessertspoonful of ground ginger, 1 salt-
spoonful of cayenne, 1 finely-chopped clove of garlic.
Method. — Put the tomatoes into a stewjar, add the salt and garlic,
cook until tender, and rub through a fine hair sieve. Add the rest of
the ingredients; when well mixed, turn into small bottles, cork tightly,
and store them in a cool, dry place.
2703. — TOMATO VINEGAR.
Ingredients. — 18 sound tomatoes, 3 or 4 ozs. of salt, 1 quart of good
vinegar, J of a pint of mustard seed, mace, cloves, nutmeg.
RECIPES FOR PRESERVES
1189
Method. — Cut each tomato across into quarters, but without separating
them at the bottom. Place them in a large jar, sprinkling each layer
with salt, and cook them in a very slow oven for 12 hours. Add the
mustard seed and spices to taste, boil and add the vinegar, and cover
closely. Let the jar stand by the side of the fire for 5 or 6 days, and
either stir or shake it several times daily. When ready strain into
small bottles, cork them securely, and store for use. Average Cost,
is. 8d. per quart.
2704. -VINEGAR, SPICED.
Ingredients. — 1 pint of good vinegar, 1 oz. of black peppercorns,
\ an oz. of whole ginger, } an oz. of salt, i of an oz. of allspice, \ an oz.
of finely chopped shallots, 2 cloves of garlic bruised, 2 bay-leaves.
Method. — Pound or crush the peppercorns, ginger and allspice, put
all into a jar, add the rest of the ingredients, and cover closely. Let
the jar remain in a warm place for 1 week, then place it in a saucepan
containing boiling water, and cook gently for 1 hour. When cold,
cover closely, and store for use.
Time. — To cook, 1 hour. Average Cost, iod.
2705. — WALNUT KETCHUP.
Ingredients. — 100 green walnuts, 1 quart of good vinegar, 3 ozs. of
salt, 4 ozs. of anchovies, 12 finely-chopped shallots, a stick of finely-
grated horseradish, \ a teaspoonful each of mace, nutmeg, ground
ginger, ground cloves and pepper, 1 pint of port.
Method. — The walnuts must be very young and tender. Bruise them
slightly, put them into a jar with the salt and vinegar, and let them
remain for 8 days, stirring them daily. Drain the liquor from them
into a stewpan, add to it the rest of the ingredients, simmer very gently
for 40 minutes, and when quite cold, strain the preparation into small
bottles. Cork them closely, cover with melted wax, and store in a
cool, dry place.
2706. WORCESTER SAUCE.
Ingredients. — 1 quart of best brown vinegar, 6 tablespoonfuls of walnut
ketchup, s tablespoonfuls of essence of anchovy, 4 tablespoonfuls of
soy, \ a teaspoonful of cayenne, 4 very finely-chopped shallots, salt
to taste.
Method. — Put all these ingredients into a large bottle, and cork it
closely. Shake it well 3 or 4 times daily for about 14 days, then strain
the sauce into small bottles, cork them tightly, and store in a cool, dry
place.
SAVOURIES,
HORS D’OEUVRES, AND
BREAKFAST DISHES
CHAPTER XXXVIII
All such familiar standard dishes as fish, kidneys, cutlets, bacon,
rissoles, etc., have been fully dealt with under their respective headings
of Fish, Veal, Beef, Lamb, Mutton and Pork.
The following recipes are simply a compilation of useful preparations
specially adapted for the requirements of the morning meal,
luncheon, etc., grouped together irrespective of their composition, to
suit the convenience of the reader. Economical recipes for utilising
cooked meat also appear in Chapter XXVIII ; for, although chiefly
intended to show how tinned meats may be advantageously used, they
are equally applicable to cooked meat ol any description ; and it is hardly
necessary to add, that the preparations would gain considerably
in nutritive value if made of fresh meat. Those who prefer fari-
naceous dishes to more solid food should refer to Chapter No. XL.
Savouries and Hors d’Oeuvres
2707. — ANCHOVY AIGRETTES. (Fr — Aigrettes
d’Anchois.)
Ingredients. — 6 anchovies, 2 tablespoonfuls of thick white sauce
(see Sauces), 1 teaspoonful of grated Parmesan cheese, essence of an-
chovy, cayenne, frying-batter (see p. 882), frying-fat.
Method. — Wash and dry the anchovies, remove the bones, and divide
them into small fillets. Mix with them the white sauce and cheese,
and add anchovy sauce and cayenne to taste. Drop small teaspoon-
fuls of the mixture into the batter, taking care to coat them com-
pletely, then fry them in hot fat until crisp and lightly browned, and
drain well. Dish in a pyramidal form, sprinkle with Parmesan cheese
and Krona pepper, and serve as quickly as possible.
Time. — Half an hour. Average Cost, is. to is. 3d. Sufficient for 6
or 8 persons. Seasonable at any time.
1190
SAVOURIES AND BREAKFAST DISHES
1x91
2708. — ANCHOVY BISCUITS, ROYAL. (Fr.— Bis-
cuits d'Anchois a la Royale.)
Ingredients. — For the paste: 3 ozs. of flour, i|- ozs. of butter, -} an
egg, \ a teaspoonful of essence of anchovy, a few grains of cayenne,
a few drops of carmine or cochineal. For the anchovy cream: 4 an-
chovies, 1 hard-boiled yolk of egg, 1 dessertspoonful of clarified butter,
3 tablespoonfuls of cream, cayenne, watercress.
Method. — Rub the butter into the flour, add the egg, anchovy essence,
and water to mix to a stiff paste. Roll out thinly, stamp into rounds
if inches in diameter, bake in a moderate oven until crisp, and use
when cool. Wash, bone and dry the anchovies, pound them with the
yolk of egg and butter until smooth, season with a little cayenne, and
rub through a fine sieve. Whip the cream stiffly, stir the fish prepara-
tion in lightly, and by means of a forcing bag fill the centre of each
biscuit in the form of a cone. Decorate tastefully with leaves or water-
cress, and serve.
Time. — 1 hour. Average Cost, about is. Sufficient for 6 or 8 per-
sons. Seasonable at any time.
2709. — ANCHOVY D’ARTOIS. (Fr.—. D’Artois aux
Anchois.)
Ingredients. — 1 tablespoonful of anchovy paste, 1 \ tablespoonfuls
of grated Parmesan cheese, 1 tablespoonful of cream or white sauce,
cayenne, 1 egg, 5 or 6 ozs. of puff paste.
Method. — Moisten the anchovy paste with sufficient cream or white
sauce to enable it to be easily spread. Roll the paste out 3 times,
sprinkling it each time with cheese and a very little cayenne pepper.
Finally roll it into a strip 6 inches wide and about J of an inch in
thickness, and cut it in half lengthwise. Spread the anchovy pre-
paration on one half, and cover this with the other, then cut it into
strips 1 inch wide, and trim them to a uniform size. Place them on a
wetted baking-tin, bake in a quick oven until the paste has risen and
set, then brush over with egg, sprinkle with cheese, and replace in the
oven until crisp and nicely browned. Serve hot.
Time. — To bake, 10 minutes. Average Cost, about is. Sufficient for
6 or 7 persons. Seasonable at any time.
2710. — ANCHOVY AND EGG FINGERS. (Fr.— Can-
apes d’Anchois aux CEufs.)
Ingredients. — 8 or 10 anchovies, 2 hard-boiled eggs, 1 tablespoonful
of finely-chopped pickled gherkin, fried croutons, butter, anchovy-
essence, cayenne.
Method.— Wash, bone and dry the anchovies; rub the yolks of the
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1192
eggs through a fine sieve, and chop the whites finely. Cut thin slices
of stale bread into fingers, fry them in clarified butter or fat, and drain
well. Add a pinch of cayenne and a few drops of anchovy-essence
to a little butter, mix well, spread it on the fingers, and lay on each an
anchovy. Decorate in 3 divisions, covering the centre lightly with
gherkin, with the white and yolk of egg on opposite sides. Make
thoroughly hot before serving.
Time. — 1 hour. Average Cost, from is. to is. 3d. Sufficient for 6
or 8 persons. Seasonable at any time.
2711 .—ANCHOVY CROUTES, INDIAN STYLE.
(Fr. — Croutes d’Anchois a l’lndienne.)
Ingredients. — 8 or 10 anchovies, \ a teaspoonful of curry-paste,
1 hard-boiled egg, toast, butter, lemon-juice, Krona pepper, chopped
parsley.
Method. — Bone, wash and dry the anchovies, and divide them into
fillets. Chop the white of the egg finely, rub the yolk through a fine
sieve, and incorporate with it the curry-paste, and as much liquid
butter as necessary to mix the whole to a moist paste. Let the toast
be thin and crisp, cut it into rounds or triangles, butter well, spread on
the mixture, lay on each a filleted anchovy, and season with Krona
pepper. Add 2 or 3 drops of lemon-juice, decorate with white of egg,
sprinkle half the croutes with Krona pepper, and the remainder with
parsley. Place them in a hot oven for 3 or 4 minutes, then serve.
Time. — 1 hour. Average Cost, is. to is. 3d. Sufficient for 6 or 8
persons. Seasonable at any time.
2712. — ANCHOVY ECLAIRS. (Fr.— Eclairs d’An-
chois.)
Ingredients. — 8 to 10 anchovies, puff paste trimmings, grated Parmesan
cheese, 1 egg.
Method. — The eclairs should have the appearance of miniature sausage
rolls. Wash, bone and dry the anchovies. Roll the paste out thin,
cut it into oblong pieces, slightly longer than the anchovies. Enclose
an anchovy in each piece, seal the edge folded over with a little egg,
sprinkle with cheese, and bake in a brisk oven until nicely browned
and crisp. Serve hot.
Time. — Half an hour. Average Cost, iod., exclusive of the paste.
Sufficient for 6 or 8 persons. Seasonable at any time.
2713. — ANCHOVY EGGS. (Fr.— Anchois aux CEufs.)
Ingredients. — 4 anchovies, 4 hard-boiled eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of
white sauce, 1 teaspoonful of essence of anchovy, watercress, cayenne.
SAVOURIES AND BREAKFAST DISHES
ii93
Method. — Cut the eggs across in halves, remove the yolks carefully,
and cut off the extreme end of each half to enable them to stand firmly.
Wash, bone and dry the anchovies, chop them coarsely, and pound them
with the yolks of eggs till smooth. Add the anchovy essence, and the
white sauce gradually until a moist paste is formed; then season to
taste, and rub through a hair sieve. Fill the white of egg cases with
the preparation, garnish with watercress seasoned with oil and vinegar,
and serve.
Time. — Half an hour. Average Cost, is. 3d. Sufficient for 8 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
2714. — ANCHOVY FINGERS. (Fr.— Canapes d’An-
chois.)
Ingredients. — 8 or 10 anchovies, \ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped
parsley, 1 finely-chopped shallot, £ an oz. of butter, buttered toast,
Krona pepper, white pepper.
Method. — Bone the anchovies and wash them in warm water. Cut
the toast into fingers, sprinkle them with shallot and parsley, and lay
on each an anchovy. Add a few drops of lemon-juice and a seasoning
of pepper, sprinkle on a little Krona pepper, place a morsel of butter
on each, make hot in the oven, and serve.
Time. — Half an hour. Average Cost, is. Sufficient for 6 or 8 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
2715. — ANCHOVIES, FRIED. ( Fr . — Anchois en Fri-
tot.)
Ingredients. — 8 to 10 anchovies preserved in oil, % a teaspoonful of
finely-chopped parsley, 1 finely-chopped shallot, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-
juice, cayenne, Krona pepper, frying-fat, frying-batter ( see p. 882).
Method. — Wash, bone and dry the anchovies, sprinkle over them the
lemon-juice, parsley and shallot, cover with a plate, and let them re-
main in the marinade for about 1 hour. Make the batter as directed,
dip in the anchovies, fry them in hot fat until nicely browned, then
drain well. Pile on a hot dish, sprinkle with Krona pepper, garnish
with crisply-fried parsley, and serve.
Time. — 2 hours. Average Cost, is. 3d. Sufficient for 6 or 8 per-
sons. Seasonable at any time.
2716. — ANCHOVY RISSOLETTES. (Fr.— Rissolettes
d’Anchois.)
Ingredients. — 4 anchovies, 3 raw yolks of eggs, 1 whole raw egg,
1 oz. of butter, 1 teaspoonful of grated Parmesan cheese, bread-crumbs,
cayenne, frying-fat.
H94
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Wash, skin, bone and dry the anchovies, then chop them
and rub them through a fine sieve. Steam or bake the yolks of eggs
in a buttered cup or small mould, and pass them through a sieve.
Melt the butter, mix with it the anchovies, yolk of eggs and cheese, adding
cayenne to taste. Roll out the paste as thin as a wafer, cut it into
f-inch diameter rounds, place on each half i teaspoonful of the pre-
paration, wet the edges, and fold over into a crescent shape. Brush
over with egg, coat with breadcrumbs, fry in hot fat until crisp and
nicely browned, then drain well. Dish in a pyramidal form, sprinkle
with Parmesan cheese and Krona pepper, and serve as hot as possible.
Time. — i hour. Average Cost, is. Sufficient for 6 or 8 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
2717. — ANCHOVIES, RUTLAND STYLE. (Fr.— An-
chois a la Rutland.)
Ingredients. — For the cheese paste: 3 ozs. of flour, i£ ozs. of butter,
1 dessertspoonful of grated Parmesan cheese, the yolk of 1 egg, salt,
cayenne. For the preparation : 4 anchovies, 1 hard-boiled egg, 1
tablespoonful of thick white sauce, anchovy-essence, carmine or cochi-
neal, watercress.
Method. — Rub the butter into the flour, add the cheese, yolk of
egg, a little salt and cayenne, and water to mix to a stiff paste. Roll
out thinly, cut into if- inch squares, bake them in a moderate oven until
crisp, and use when cool. Wash, bone and dry the anchovies, and
divide them into fine \ inch strips. Mix with them the white sauce
and the finely-sieved yolk of egg, season with cayenne, add a few drops
of anchovy essence and carmine, drop by drop, until a pale pink colour
is obtained. Pile the preparation on the biscuits, garnish with fine
strips of white of egg, and leaves of watercress or chervil.
Time. — \\ hours. Average Cost, is. Sufficient for 6 or 8 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
2718. — ANCHOVY TARTLETS. (Fr.— Tartlettes
d’Anchois.)
Ingredients. — Anchovy paste, anchovy cream ( see Anchovy Biscuits,
No. 2708), capers, lobster coral or Krona pepper.
Method. — -Line very small patty-pans with the paste, prick it all over,
cover the paste with buttered paper, and fill with rice. Bake in a
moderately hot oven until crisp, remove the paper and rice, and when
cold fill with the anchovy cream. The mixture should be piled high
in the centre, and sprinkled with lobster coral or Krona pepper, the
base of each being garnished with capers.
Time. — i-J- hours. Average Cost, about is. Sufficient for 6 or 8 per-
sons. Seasonable at any time.
SAVOURIES AND BREAKFAST DISHES
ii95
2719. — ANCHOVY TOAST. {Fr. — Croutes d’Anchois.)
Ingredients. — 6 anchovies, \ an oz. of butter, 1 yolk of egg, 1 finely-
chopped shallot, \ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, toast,
butter, cayenne pepper.
Method. — Wash and bone the anchovies, and chop them coarsely.
Heat the butter in a small stewpan, fry the shallot until lightly browned,
then add the anchovies, parsley and yolk of egg, and season with
cayenne. Stir by the side of the fire until the mixture thickens, then
pour it on the toast, previously well-buttered, and serve as hot as
possible.
Time. — Half an hour. Average Cost, iod. Sufficient for 6 or 8 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
2720. —“ ANGELS ON HORSEBACK.” {Fr. — Les
Anges a Cheval.)
Ingredients. — 12 oysters, 12 small thin slices of bacon, 12 small round
croutes of fried bread, -J- a teaspoonful of finely-chopped shallot, \ a
teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, lemon-juice, Krona pepper.
Method. — Beard the oysters, trim xhe bacon, cutting each piece just
large enough to roll round an oyster, season with Krona pepper, sprinkle
on a little shallot and parsley. Lay an oyster on each, add a few drops
of lemon-juice, roll up tightly, and secure the bacon in position with a
large pin. Fry in a frying-pan or bake in a hot oven just long enough
to crisp the bacon (further cooking would harden the oysters), remove
the pin and serve on the croutes.
Time. — 20 minutes. Average Cost, is. pd. to 2s. 9d. Sufficient
for 8 or 9 persons. Seasonable from September to March.
2721. — BLOATER TOAST. {Fr. — Croutes a la Yar-
mouth.)
Ingredients. — 2 bloaters with soft roes, i-| ozs. of butter, 1 egg, salt,
cayenne, 8 squares of buttered toast.
Method. — Remove the roes, grill the herrings, free them from skin
and bone, then chop them, and rub them through a fine sieve. Heat
the butter in a small stewpan, add the fish, and when hot put in the
egg, season to taste, and stir by the side of the fire until the mixture
thickens. Meanwhile divide the roes into 8 pieces, and fry them in
the remainder of the butter. Spread the fish preparation on the
croutes, lay the roe on the top, and serve as hot as possible.
Time. — 1 hour. Average Cost, pd. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Season-
able at any time.
1196 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
2722. — CAVIARE AND PRAWNS. (Fr.— Caviar aux
Ecrevisses.)
Ingredients. — 1-|- ozs. of caviare, 32 small prawns, capers, 1 lemon,
| a shallot very finely-chopped, brown bread, butter, cayenne.
Method. — Prepare thin slices of brown bread and butter, cut from
them 8 or 9 rounds about i-|- inches in diameter, and cover them with
thin slices of lemon trimmed to the size of the croute. Add the shallot
and a few drops of lemon-juice to the caviare, season with cayenne,
and stir with a wooden spoon or skewer. Pile the preparation on the
croutes; with the point of a wooden skewer hollow the centre down to
the lemon, and fill the cavity with capers. Arrange 4 pickled prawns
in a nearly upright equi-distant position, then serve.
Time. — 1 hour. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. to 3s. Sufficient for 6 or
7 persons. Seasonable at any time.
2723. — CAVIARE BOUCHEES. ( See Caviare Patties,
No. 2726.)
2724. — CAVIARE CROUSTADES. (Fr.— Croustades au
Caviar.)
Ingredients. — 1 small pot of caviare, 1 dessertspoonful of lemon-juice,
1 finely-chopped shallot, stale bread, clarified butter, anchovy butter
(see p. 1 1 14).
Method. — From slices of stale bread about \ to f of an inch in thick-
ness, cut or stamp out 9 or more rounds, ovals, or squares, 2 inches in
diameter, and with a smaller cutter, or a knife, make an inner circle,
oval, or square, of an inch from the outer edge of the croustade.
Fry them carefully in clarified butter until lightly browned, then with
the point of a small sharp knife lift out the inner ring, remove all moist
crumbs, place them in a moderate oven to become crisp and dry, and
cool before using. Add the shallot and lemon-juice to as much caviare
as will be required to fill the cases, stir well with a wooden skewer,
and put the preparation into the cases. Make the anchovy butter as
directed, put it into a forcing-bag or paper cornet, and decorate the
border of each croustade. Serve cold.
Time. — 1 hour. Average Cost, from 3s. to 3s. 6d. Sufficient for 8 or
9 persons. Seasonable at any time.
2725. — CAVIARE PANCAKES. (Fr. — Caviar de Russe
aux bienis.)
Ingredients. — Pancake batter (see No. 1930), Russian caviare.
Method. — Make the pancakes as small and as thin as possible. Spread
them with caviare, roll them tightly, and cut off the ends in a sharply-
slanting direction. Serve as quickly as possible.
SAVOURIES AND BREAKFAST DISHES
1197
Time. — To fry each pancake, from 2 to 3 minutes. Average Cost,
uncertain. Sufficient, allow 1 to each person. Seasonable at any time.
2726. — CAVIARE PATTIES. (AY. — Bouchees au
Caviar.)
Ingredients. — 1 small pot of caviare, 2 tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce,
h an oz. of butter, 1 finely-chopped shallot, a few drops of lemon-juice,
fried parsley, puff paste No. 1665.
Method. — Prepare 6 or 8 i^-inch diameter patty cases ( see No. 795) ;
when baked, remove and preserve the lids, scoop out the soft
inside, and keep the cases hot until required. Cook the shallot slightly
in the butter, then add the caviare, tomato sauce and a few drops of
lemon-juice. Fill the cases with the preparation, put on the lids,
garnish with crisply-fried parsley, and serve.
Time. — 1 hour. Average Cost, 3s. 3d., exclusive of the paste. Suffi-
cient for 6 or 8 persons. Seasonable at any time.
2727. — CHEESE AIGRETTES. (jFt.— Aigrettes au
Parmesan.)
Ingredients. — 3 ozs. of grated Parmesan cheese, 4 ozs. of flour, 2 ozs.
of butter, 3 yolks of eggs, \ a pint of water, cayenne, salt.
Method. — Put the butter and water into a small stewpan; when boiling
add the previously dried and sieved flour, and stir vigorously over the
fire until the panada leaves the sides of the pan quite clean. Now mix
in, off the fire, the cheese, the yolks of eggs, beating each one in separ-
ately, add seasoning to taste, and lastly stir in the stiffly-whipped
whites of eggs. Turn on to a plate, and when cold drop small rough
pieces of it into hot fat, but they must not fry too quickly or the surface
will become too brown before the interior is sufficiently cooked. On
the other hand, if the fat is too cold it soaks into the paste, and the
aigrettes are greasy. As the success of this dish depends chief!)' on the
frying, the greatest possible care should be bestowed upon it. After
being well drained the aigrettes are usually arranged in a pyramidal
form on a folded napkin or dish-paper, and sprinkled with Parmesan
cheese or Krona pepper.
Time. — 1 hour. Average Cost, is. 2d. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
2728. — CHEESE BALLS. (AY. — Ballons au Fromage.)
Ingredients. — 2 ozs. of grated Cheshire or Cheddar cheese, 1 oz. of flour,
1 egg, salt, pepper, cayenne, frying-fat.
Method. — Mix the cheese, flour, and yolk of egg together, add salt,
pepper, and cayenne to taste, then whip the white of the egg to a
stiff froth and stir it lightly into the rest of the ingredients. Have
1198
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
ready a deep pan of hot fat, drop in the mixture in teaspoonfuls and
fry until nicely browned. Drain well, and dish in a pyramidal form on
a folded serviette or dish paper.
Probable Cost. — 3d. or 4d. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable
at any time.
2729. — CHEESE BISCUITS. (Fr. — Biscuits au Front-
age.)
Ingredients. — 12 water biscuits, 2 tablespoonfuls of grated Cheshire
or Cheddar cheese, butter, white pepper, Krona pepper.
Method. — Spread the biscuits with butter, sprinkle them liberally
with cheese, season well with white pepper, and, if convenient, add also
a little Krona pepper. Place the biscuits in a moderate oven until the
cheese melts, then serve them as quickly as possible.
Time. — 10 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
2730. — CHEESE BISCUITS WITH CREAM.
( Fr . — Biscuits de Fromage a la Creme.)
Ingredients. — 3 ozs. of Vienna flour, 1 oz. of ordinary flour, 4 ozs. of
grated Parmesan cheese, 3 ozs. of butter, 2 yolks of eggs, \ a gill of
cream, \ a lemon, salt, cayenne, Krona pepper.
Method. — Rub the butter into the flour, add 3 ozs. of cheese, a salt-
spoonful of salt and a good pinch of cayenne, and mix into a verv stiff
paste with the yolk of eggs and lemon-juice, adding a few drops of
milk if necessary. Roll out to about f of an inch in thickness, stamp
out some rounds if inches in diameter, prick them with a fork, and
bake them in a moderately cool oven until crisp, then let them get
cool. Whip the cream stiffly, stir in the remainder of the cheese, add
a pinch of cayenne ; force out, by means of a forcing-bag or paper cornet,
a little pyramid in the centre of each biscuit. Sprinkle with Krona
pepper, and serve cold on a folded napkin or dish paper.
Time. — 1 hour. Average Cost, is. 6d. Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
2731. — CHEESE CREAM, COLD. (Fr.— Creme au
Fromage Froid.)
Ingredients. — f of an oz. of grated Parmesan cheese, f of an oz. of
grated Gruyere or Cheddar cheese, 1 gill of cream, \ a gill of aspic
jelly, made mustard, cayenne, Krona pepper, watercress.
Method. — Season the cheese with a mustardspoonful of mustard,
a saltspoonful of salt, and a good pinch of cayenne, then add to these
ingredients the aspic jelly, previously stiffly-whipped. Whip the
SAVOURIES AND BREAKFAST DISHES
iigg
cream until stiff, stir it in lightly, turn the preparation into paper
souffle cases, put them aside in a cool place for i hour, then sprinkle
with Krona pepper, garnish with watercress, and serve. Or, the mix-
ture may be put into small dariol moulds, previously coated with aspic
jelly, and decorated with chilli, etc.
Time. —2 hours. Average Cost, is. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Sea-
sonable at any time.
2732. — CHEESE CREAM CROUTES. (Ft.— Croutes
de Fromage.)
Ingredients. — Ingredients for cheese mixture as in the preceding
recipe, croutes of fried bread if inches in diameter, chopped aspic
jelly, watercress, Krona pepper.
Method. — Spread the cheese cream mixture on the bottom of a saute-
pan or shallow baking-tin, and when set cut it into rounds the same
size as the croutes. Sprinkle each round with a little Krona pepper,
and serve garnished with chopped aspic jelly and watercress seasoned
with salad-oil and vinegar.
Time. — 2 hours. Average Cost, is. 2d. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
2733. — CHEESE CROUSTADES. (Ft. — Croustades
au Fromage.)
Ingredients. — 2 ozs. of grated Cheshire or Cheddar cheese, 1 oz. of
breadcrumbs, 1 tablespoonful of liquid butter, 1 tablespoonful of milk,
1 yolk of egg, salt, cayenne, Krona pepper, croutes of bread.
Method. — From slices of stale bread \ an inch in thickness stamp out
8 or 9 croutes, if inches in diameter. Then with a smaller cutter make
an inner circle, hollow the centre of each croute to half its depth, and
fry the croutes in hot fat. Mix together in a basin the cheese, bread-
crumbs, butter and yolk of egg, season well with salt and pepper, pile
the preparation on the croutes, smoothing it into a pyramidal form
with a knife, brown in a quick oven, and serve as hot as possible.
Time. — 1 hour. Average Cost, 8d. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
2734. — CHEESE D’ARTOIS. (Ft. — D’Artois au Par-
mesan.)
Ingredients. — 3 ozs. of grated cheese, 1 oz. of butter, 2 yolks of eggs,
1 white of egg, salt and pepper, 3 or 4 ozs. of puff paste.
Method. — Beat the yolk and white of 1 egg slightly, add the cheese,
butter (melted), and season rather highly with salt and pepper. Roll
the paste out thinly, cut it in half, spread the preparation over one
half, and cover with the other. Place it carefully on a buttered baking-
1200
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
tin, score it in inch-deep strips, brush over with egg, sprinkle with
grated cheese, and bake for about io minutes in a quick oven. When
ready cut through the scores, pile on a hot dish,- and serve.
Time. — i hour. Average Cost, gd. to is. Sufficient tor 8 or 9 per-
sons. Seasonable at any time.
2735. — CHEESE FRITTERS. (Fr.— Beignets de Front-
age.)
Ingredients. — For the mixture: 2 tablespoonfuls of cooked macaroni,
1 tablespoonful of grated Parmesan cheese, 1 tablespoonful of thick
cream or white sauce, salt, cayenne pepper ; puff paste trimmings,
cheese, Krona pepper, 1 egg, breadcrumbs or vermicelli, frying-fat.
Method. — The macaroni, after being cooked until perfectly tender,
should be cut across into tiny rings, and in this condition measure 2
tablespoonfuls. Mix with it the cheese, cream or sauce, and season
rather highly with salt, cayenne and pepper. Roll out the paste,
sprinkle it with Parmesan cheese, add a little Krona pepper, fold it
over, and roll it out again as thin as possible. Now stamp it out into
rounds i|- inches in diameter, on half of them place a little of the mix-
ture, and cover with the other rounds, pressing the previously wetted
edges well together. Dip in egg and then in breadcrumbs or broken
up vermicelli, and fry in hot fat until nicely browned. Dish in a pyra-
midal form, sprinkle with cheese and Krona pepper, and serve hot.
Time. — hours. Average Cost, from 9d. to is., exclusive of the
paste. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable at any time.
2736. — CHEESE FRITTERS. (Another Method.)
(Fr. — Fritot de Fromage.)
Ingredients. — Cheshire or Cheddar cheese, clarified butter, Krona
pepper, cayenne pepper, frying-batter {see p. 882), frying-fat.
Method. — Trim 8 or 9 -|-inch slices of cheese into pieces 2 inches
long and 1 inch wide, pour over them a little clarified butter, sprinkle
well with Krona pepper, and let them remain \ an hour, during which
time they must be turned once and seasoned as before. Prepare the
batter as directed, season with cayenne pepper, dip in the pieces of
cheese, and fry them in deep fat, but not too quickly, as the cheese
should be well cooked. Serve quickly.
Time. — 1 hour. Average Cost, is. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Sea-
sonable at any time.
2737. — CHEESE MERINGUES. (Fr. — Meringues au
Parmesan.)
Ingredients. — 2 whites of eggs, 2 ozs. of grated Parmesan cheese, Krona,
pepper, cayenne, salt, frying-fat.
SAVOURIES AND BREAKFAST DISHES
1201
Method. — Whisk the whites to a very stiff troth, add a good seasoning
of cayenne and a little salt to the cheese, then stir it lightly into the
whisked whites. Have ready a deep pan of hot fat, drop in the pre-
paration in small teaspoonfuls, and fry until nicely browned. Drain
well, and serve sprinkled with Parmesan cheese and Krona pepper.
Time. — Half an hour. Average Cost, 8d. or 9d., exclusive of the
fat. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable at any time.
2738. — CHEESE OMELET. (Fr. — Omelette Gratinee
au Parmesan.)
Ingredients. — 3 eggs, 1 tablespoonful of grated Parmesan cheese,
1 tablespoonful of cream or milk, 1 oz. of clarified butter, pepper and
salt.
Method. — Whisk the eggs well, then add the cheese, cream, and a
little salt and pepper. Have the butter ready, heated and well skimmed,
in an omelette pan, pour in the egg-mixture, and stir over the fire until
the eggs begin to set. Now fold one half over the other, making it
crescent-shaped, or fold the sides towards the middle in the form of
a cushion. Allow the omelet to brown slightly, then turn it on to a
hot dish, and serve immediately.
Time. — 10 minutes. Average Cost, 8d. Sufficient for 2 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
2739. — CHEESE PATTIES. ( Fr . — Bouchees de Front-
age.)
Ingredients. — 1 tablespoonful of grated Parmesan cheese, i-J- table-
spoonfuls of grated Cheshire or Cheddar cheese, 1 tablespoonlul of
cream, 2 tablespoonfuls of thick white sauce, 1 white of egg, puff
paste No. 1665, Krona pepper, cayenne, salt.
Method. — Prepare 8 patty-cases, i|- inches in diameter ( see p. 795);
when baked, remove and preserve the lids, scoop out the soft inside,
and keep the cases hot. Stir the cream, sauce and cheese over the
fire until the latter melts, then add cayenne and salt to taste, and fill
the cases with the preparation. Add a little grated cheese to the
stiffly-whisked white of egg, arrange it roughly in the centre of each
patty, sprinkle on a little Krona pepper, and place in a moderate oven
until the meringue becomes crisp and lightly browned.
Time. — 1 hour. Average Cost, 7d. , exclusive of the paste. Sufficient
ior 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable at any time.
2740. — CHEESE PATTIES. (Fr. — Pates au Fromage. )
Ingredients. — 1 oz. of grated Parmesan cheese, 1 tablespoonful of
thick cream or white sauce, 1 egg, Krona pepper, cayenne, puff paste
trimmings,
1202
HOUSEH OLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Line 7 or 8 small patty-pans with paste, cover with pieces of
buttered paper, fill with rice, and bake for 10 minutes in a brisk oven.
Mix the sauce, yolk of the egg and cheese together, season highly with
Krona pepper, cayenne and salt, and add the white of egg, previously
whisked to a stiff froth. Remove the rice and paper from the patty-
cases, fill them with the preparation, replace in the oven, and bake for
about t 5 minutes. Serve either hot or cold.
Time. — 1|- hours. Average Cost, 5d., exclusive of the paste.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable at any time.
2741. — CHEESE 'PUDDING. (Fr.~ Pouding au Fro-
mage.)
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of grated cheese, 1 oz. of breadcrumbs, £ a pint
of milk, 2 eggs, made mustard, salt, cayenne.
Method. — Beat the eggs slightly, and add to them the cheese, mustard,
salt and pepper to taste. Boil the milk, add it to the rest of the ingredi-
ents, pour into a buttered baking-dish in which it may be served,
and bake for about 20 minutes in a brisk oven. If preferred, the
mixture may be baked in small china or paper souffle cases, in which
case only half the time should be allowed.
Time. — About \ an hour. Average Cost, '/d. or 8d. Sufficient for 5 or 6
persons. Seasonable at any time.
2742. — CHEESE RINGS.
Ingredients. — Cheese paste ( see the 2 recipes for Cheese Straws,
Nos. 2745 and 2746).
Method. — Make the paste as directed, stamp it into rounds about 2
inches in diameter, and with a much smaller cutter remove the centre
of each round. Bake them in a moderate oven, and serve hot.
Time. — 20 minutes. Average Cost, from 7d. to 9d. Sufficient for 6 or
7 persons Seasonable at any time.
2743. — CHEESE RAMAKINS. (See Cheese Souffle, No.
2744, and Cheese Cream, Cold, No. 2731.)
2744. CHEESE SOUFFLE. (Fr.— Souffle au Par-
mesan.)
Ingredients. — 3 ozs. of grated Parmesan cheese, 1 oz. of butter, 1 oz.
of flour, 3 whites of eggs, 2 yolks of eggs, J of a pint of milk, cayenne,
salt, clarified butter.
Method. — Coat a souffle-mould well with clarified butter, and tie
round it a well-buttered, thickly-folded piece of paper to support the
SAVOURIES AND BREAKFAST DISHES
1203
souffle when it rises above the level of the tin. Melt the butter in a
stewpan, stir in the flour, add the milk, and boil well. Now mix in,
off the Are, the 2 yolks of eggs, beat well, then stir in the cheese and add
seasoning to taste. Whisk the whites to a stiff froth, add them lightly
to the rest of the ingredients, pour the preparation into the souffle-
tin, and bake in a hot oven from 25 to 30 minutes. Serve in the tin
in which it is baked, and if not provided with an outer case, pin round it
a napkin (previously warmed), and send to table quickly.
Time. — From 40 to 50 minutes. Average Cost, is. 2d. Sufficient for 5
or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
2745. — CHEESE STRAWS. (FV. — Pailles au Par-
mesan.)
Ingredients. — 2 ozs. of butter, 2-J- ozs. of flour, 2 ozs. of Parmesan
cheese, 1 oz. of Cheshire or Cheddar cheese, the yolk of 1 egg, salt,
cayenne pepper.
Method. — Grate the cheese, mix it with the flour, rub in the butter,
and season with salt and cayenne pepper. Now form into a stiff paste
with the yolk of egg and cold water, adding the latter gradually until
the desired consistency is obtained. Roll out thinly, cut into strips
about 4 inches long and about ^ of an inch wide, and from the trimmings
stamp out some rings about ir)- inches in diameter. Bake in a moderate
oven until crisp, fill each ring with straws, and arrange them neatly
on a dish, covered with a napkin or dish-paper.
Time. — Half an hour. Average Cost, 9d. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
2746. — CHEESE STRAWS. (Another Method.)
(Fr.— Pailles au Parmesan.)
Ingredients. — 2 ozs. of grated Parmesan cheese, 4 or 5 ozs. of puff paste,
cayenne.
Method. — Roll out the paste, using some of the cheese instead of
flour for sprinkling the board, scatter cheese over the surface, fold in
3, and give it one turn. Repeat until the cheese is used; when rolling
out for the last time sprinkle with a little cayenne pepper, and, if
needed, let the paste stand for some time in a cold place after each
turn. After rolling it out thinly, cut it into strips about 4 inches long
and a \ of an inch wide, twisting each strip before placing it on a wetted
baking-tin. Re-roll the trimmings, stamp out some rings ij inches in
diameter, and bake them with the straws until crisp and lightly browned.
Arrange in bundles by means of the rings, and serve hot.
Time. — Three-quarters of an hour. Average Cost, 7d. Sufficient for
6 or 7 persons. Seasonable at any time.
1204
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
2747. — CROUTES OF COD’S ROE. (Fr.— Croutes de
Laitance de Cabillaud.)
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of smoked cod’s roe, 8 oval-shaped croutes of fried
bread, 1 oz. of butter, a teaspoonful of finely-chopped chives 01
shallot, \ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, pepper, cayenne.
Method. — Soak the roe in water for 1 hour to soften it, then drain
and dry it thoroughly. Heat the butter in a saute- or frying-pan,
cut the roe into 8 slices, and fry them lightly on both sides. Sprinkle
the croutes with shallot, parsley, and pepper, lay a slice of roe on each,
add a few grains of cayenne, and serve as hot as possible. A more
elaborate appearance may be given to the dish by decorating the roes
with strips of gherkin and hard-boiled white of egg, or anchovy butter.
Time. — ib hours. Average Cost, is. to is. 4d. Sufficient for 6 or
7 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Note. — Fresh roe also may be dressed in this manner. It should first be
well washed, then covered with boiling water, seasoned with a dessertspoonful
of vinegar, and \ a teaspoonful of salt, boiled gently for 10 minutes, and
when cold cut into slices, and cooked as directed above.
2748. — CROUTES OF DEVILLED LOBSTER.
(Fr. — Croutes d’Homard a la Diable.)
Ingredients. — 1 small lobster, 1 tablespoonful of breadcrumbs 1 oz.
of butter, 1 teaspoonful of white wine vinegar, a few drops of tarragon
vinegar, 1 mustardspoonful of made mustard, cayenne, nutmeg,
Krona pepper, 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of thick cream or Bechamel sauce,
8 croutes of fried bread.
Method. —Pound the flesh of the lobster with the breadcrumbs, butter
and vinegar in a mortar until smooth, then rub through a sieve. Season
highly with pepper and cayenne, add the mustard and a pinch of nut-
meg, and, if needed, moisten with more vinegar. Pile the preparation
on the croutes, cover with whipped cream or Bechamel sauce seasoned
with cayenne and lemon-juice, sprinkle lightly with Krona pepper,
and serve.
Time. — Half an hour. Average Cost, is. 9d. Sufficient tor 6 or 7
persons. Seasonable at any time.
2749. — CROUTES, RUSSIAN. (Fr.— Croutes a la
Russe.)
Ingredients. — 2 tablespoonfuls of finely-shredded cold smoked or
spiced beef, 2 hard-boiled eggs, 1 small horseradish, 1 gill of cream
(sour if possible), salad-oil, vinegar, lemon-juice, cayenne pepper,
salt.
Method. — The strips of beef should be about 1 inch long and a £ of an
SAVOURIES AND BREAKFAST DISHES
1205
inch wide; when cut, sprinkle over them 1 teaspoonful ot salad-
oil, vinegar and a little pepper, and let them remain for \ an hour.
Meanwhile cover each croute with a slice of hard-boiled egg seasoned
with salt anci pepper; scrape the horseradish finely and stir it into the
cream, which must be previously whipped and seasoned with a little
cayenne and a few drops of lemon-juice. Place the strips of beef on
the croutes, piling them high in the centre, cover with the horseradish
sauce, and serve.
Time. — Half an hour. Average Cost, pd. to is., exclusive of the beef.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable at any time.
2750. — CURRIED SHRIMPS. {Ft.— Crevettes au
Kari.)
Ingredients. — of a pint of shelled shrimps, 1 oz. of butter, 1 finely-
chopped shallot, \ a gill of cream, \ a gill of stock, 1 teaspoonful of
curry-powder, \ a teaspoonful of lemon-juice.
Method. — Cut the shrimps across in halves. Fry the shallot slightly
in butter, add the curry-powder, and cook it for 3 minutes, then pour
in the stock and stir until it boils. Let it simmer very gently for 15
minutes, put in the shrimps, cream, lemon-juice, and add the necessary
seasoning. Make thoroughly hot, and serve in china ramakin cases.
Time. — Half an hour. Average Cost, 9d. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
2751. — CURRIED PRAWNS. (Fr. — Ecrevisses a
l’Orientale.)
Ingredients. — 3 dozen shelled prawns, 3 ozs. of butter, 1 finelv-chopped
small onion, 1 dessertspoonful of curry-powder, 1 dessertspoonful of
flour, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, \ a pint of milk, salt, 4 ozs. of plainly
cooked rice (i.e. boiled in salted water and dried).
Method. — Brown the onion lightly in the hot butter, stir in the curry-
powder and flour, and cook slowly for 5 minutes. Add the milk and
stir until it boils, then cover and let the sauce simmer gently for \ an
hour. Now put in the prawns and lemon-juice, season to taste, cook
gently for 10 minutes, and serve with boiled rice.
Time. — 1 hour. Average Cost, from is. 6d. to 2s. Sufficient for from
4 to 8 persons, according to size. Seasonable at any time.
2752. -DEVILLED CHICKENS’ LIVERS. (Fr- Foie
de Volaille a la Diable.)
Ingredients. — 4 chickens’ livers, 3 croutes of fried bread, bacon,
1 finely-chopped shallot, \ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley,
cayenne, pepper and salt.
1206
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Wash and dry the livers, cut them in halves, and sprinkle
them well with shallot, parsley, cayenne and pepper ; these ingredients
should be previously mixed together. Cut some very thin slices of
bacon, just large enough to roll round the liver, wrap them round
tightly, and fasten them in position by means of large pins. Bake in a
moderate oven for 7 or 8 minutes, then remove the pins, dish on the
toast, and serve as hot as possible.
Time. — Half an hour. Average Cost, 9d. Sufficient for 6 or 7
persons. Seasonable at any time.
2753. — DEVILLED CRAB. {Fr. — Crabe a la Diable.)
Ingredients. — A medium-sized boiled crab, breadcrumbs, 1 teaspoonful
of mixed mustard, 1 teaspoonful of Worcester sauce, 1 tablespoonful
of oiled butter, cayenne and salt to taste, cream or milk.
Method. — Remove the meat from the shell and claws, clean the shell,
and put it aside. Chop the meat of the crab, add to it an equal quantity
of breadcrumbs, the mustard, sauce, butter, and a very liberal season-
ing of cayenne and salt. Mix well, if necessary moisten with a little
milk or cream, then turn the whole into the prepared shell. Cover
lightly with breadcrumbs, add a few small pieces of butter, and brown
in a moderately hot oven.
Time. — About 30 minutes. Average Cost, is. 3d. to is. 4d. Sufficient
for 2 persons. Seasonable, all the year.
2754. — DEVILLED SHRIMPS. (Fr.— Crevettes a la
Diable.)
Ingredients. — Picked shrimps, flour, cayenne, finely-chopped parsley,
frying-fat.
Method. — Shake the shrimps in a little flour, fry them in a frying-
basket in hot fat until crisp and nicely browned, and drain well.
Sprinkle lightly with cayenne and parsley, and serve hot.
Time. — To fry the shrimps, from 3 to 4 minutes. Average Cost, 3s.
per pint. Allow \ a pint for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable at any time.
2755. — DRESSED BEETROOT. ( Fr . — Betterave a
l’Orientale.)
Ingredients. — 1 small beetroot, 2 anchovies, 2 hard-boiled eggs, 1
tablespoonful of finely-chopped capers, 1 very finely-chopped shallot,
anchovy essence, lemon-juice, brown bread, butter, pepper, cayenne,
salt.
Method. -Prepare thin slices of bread and butter, cut from them
8 or 9 rounds about if inches in diameter, and cover them with slices
of beetroot of corresponding size and thickness. Cut the eggs across
SAVOURIES AND BREAKFAST DISHES
1207
into thin slices, select 8 or 9 of suitable size, remove the yolk, and place
the rings of white of egg on the croutes, leaving visible a narrow margin
of beetroot. Pass the remainder of the eggs through a sieve, mix with
them the capers and shallot, add a few drops of lemon-juice and suffi-
cient anchovy essence to form a moist paste. Season to taste, pile the
preparation in the centre of the croutes, garnish with fine strips of
anchovies, and serve.
Time. — 1 hour. Average Cost, is. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Season-
able, all the year.
2756. — EGGS STUFFED WITH PRAWNS.
(Fr. — CEufs Farcis aux Crevettes.)
Ingredients. — 4 hard-boiled eggs, 12 large or 18 small prawns, 3 Gorgona
anchovies, \\ ozs. of butter, I of a pint of tomato sauce No. 177,
1 tablespoonful of Bechamel sauce ( see Sauces), cayenne, salt and
pepper.
Method. — Cut the eggs across in halves, cut off their extreme ends
so that they may stand firmly, and remove the yolks. Put the boned
anchovies and the picked prawns into a mortar, add the yolks of the
eggs, pound these ingredients until smooth, then rub through a fine
wire sieve. Replace in the mortar, incorporate the butter and Bechamel
sauce, season to taste, then till the cases. Sprinkle the surface with
grated Parmesan cheese, place a prawn head in the centre of each, and
bake in a hot oven for about 10 minutes. Serve the tomato sauce
poured round the base of the dish.
Time. — 1 hour. Average Cost, 2s. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
2757. — FOIE GRAS CROUTES. ( Fr . — Croutes de Foie
Gras.)
Ingredients. — Foie gras, salt and pepper, croutes of fried or toasted
bread, cream, or brown sauce.
Method. — Pound the foie gras, adding a little cream or sauce until
the right consistency is obtained. Pass through a fine sieve, season
to taste, and arrange lightly on the croutes, using a bag and forcer
if available. Garnish tastefully with cream previously whipped and
highly-seasoned, or fancifully -cut truffle, hard-boiled white of egg,
or any other suitable decoration preferred.
Time. — 1 hour. Average Cost, about 3d. each. Allow 1 to each
person. Seasonable at any time.
2758. — FOIE GRAS TOAST. ( Fr . — Croutes de Foie
Gras.)
Ingredients. — Foie gras, salt and pepper, croutes of toasted bread.
1208
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Slice the foie gras, and stamp it into rounds, the same
size as the croutes. Warm them between two plates over a saucepan
of boiling water, place them on the hot croutes, season with salt and
pepper, then serve.
Time. — 20 minutes. Average Cost, 3d. each. Allow 1 to each
person. Seasonable at any time.
2759. — GOLDEN BUCK.
Ingredients. — J of a lb. of Cheshire or Cheddar cheese (preferably the
former), 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of ale, \ a teaspoonful of Worcester or
other cruet sauce, \ a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, 2 eggs, celery-salt,
Krona pepper, toast, butter.
Method. — Chop the cheese finely, put it into a stewpan, with an
oz. of butter and the ale, and stir vigorously until creamy, then add
the Worcester sauce, lemon-juice, and the eggs previously beaten.
Season to taste with celery -salt and Krona pepper, and continue stirring
briskly until the mixture thickens. Trim the toast, butter well, cut
each slice into 4 squares, arrange them compactly on a hot dish, and
pour the preparation on to them. Serve as hot as possible.
Time. — 10 minutes. Average Cost, Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
2760. — HAM CROUTES. (Fr. — Croutes au Jambon.)
Ingredients. — 6 ozs. of finely-chopped cooked ham, i- an oz. of butter,
1 tablespoonful of cream, 2 yolks of eggs, 1 finely-chopped shallot,
+ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, pepper, 8 round croutes of
fried bread.
Method. — Fry the shallot in the butter until slightly browned, then
add the ham and stir over the fire until hot. Now put in the yolks of
eggs and cream, season with pepper, stir until the mixture thickens,
then dish on the croutes, and serve sprinkled with parsley.
Time. — 15 minutes. Average Cost, 8d., exclusive of the ham.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable at any time.
2761. — HERRING ROES, CROUTES OF. (Fr— Croutes
de Laitance de Harengs.)
Ingredients. — 8 fresh soft roes, anchovy paste, toast, butter, 2 lemons,
fried parsley, cayenne.
Method. — Cut the toast into round or oval-shaped pieces, butter them
liberally, and spread them lightly with anchovy paste. Melt about
1 oz. of butter in a saute- or frying-pan, and shake or gently toss the
roes in it over the fire until lightly browned. Dish on the prepared
toast, sprinkle with lemon-juice and cayenne, garnish with slices of
lemon and crisply-fried parsley, and serve as hot as possible.
SAVOURIES AND BREAKFAST DISHES 1209
Time. — 15 minutes. Average Cost, is. 3d. Sufficient for 6 or 7
persons. Seasonable at any time.
Note. — Tinned roes are less expensive, and although their flavour is inferior
to that of fresh roes, they answer very well for ordinary purposes. As they
are already cooked, they simply require re-heating.
2762. — HERRING ROES, BAKED. {Fr. — Laitance de
Harengs au Gratin.)
Ingredients. — 8 fresh soft roes, 3 tablespoonfuls of thick brown sauce
{see Sauces, No. 233), 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, a few drops of
anchovy essence, i-J- ozs. of butter, 4 coarsely-chopped button mushrooms,
1 very finely-chopped shallot, \ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley,
lightly-browned breadcrumbs, 8 round or oval china or paper souffle
cases.
Method. — Brush the inside of the cases with clarified butter. Heat
1 oz. of butter in a small stewpan, put in the mushrooms, shallot and
parsley, fry lightly, then drain off the butter into a saute-pan. Add
the brown sauce, lemon-juice and anchovy essence to the mushrooms,
etc., season to taste, and when hot pour a small teaspoonful into each
paper case. Re-heat the butter in the saute-pan, toss the roes
gently over the fire until lightly browned, then place one in each case,
and cover them with the remainder of the sauce. Add a thin layer of
breadcrumbs, on the top place 2 or 3 morsels of butter, and bake in a
quick oven for 6 or 7 minutes. Serve as hot as possible.
Time. — 20 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. Sufficient for 6 or 7
persons. Seasonable at any time.
2763. — HERRING ROE TIT-BITS. {Fr. — Bonnes
Bouches de Laitance de Harengs.)
Ingredients. — 4 fresh soft roes, bacon, 8 round croutes of fried bread
or buttered toast, anchovy paste, fine strips of pickled gherkin, Krona
pepper, lemon-juice, salt.
Method. — Divide the roes in half, fold each half in two, and cut some
very thin slices of bacon just large enough to roll round the roe.
Sprinkle the inside of each piece of bacon with lemon-juice, Krona
pepper and salt, then fold them lightly round the roe and secure the
bacon in position with a large pin. Fry in a saute-pan or bake in a
quick oven until nicely browned and crisp. Meanwhile spread the
croutes thinly with anchovy paste, add a few strips of gherkin, cover
with a buttered paper, and heat in the oven. When ready to serve,
remove the pins, sprinkle with Krona pepper, dish on the croiites,
and send them to table as hot as possible.
Time. —15 minutes. Average Cost, about is. Sufficient for 6 or 7
persons. Seasonable at any time.
1210
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
2764. — IRISH RABBIT OR RAREBIT.
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of Cheshire or Cheddar cheese, \ an oz. of butter,
2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of milk, 1 dessertspoonful of coarsely-chopped
pickled gherkin, vinegar, mustard, pepper, buttered toast.
Method. — Put the butter, milk and cheese, cut into small pieces,
into a saucepan, stir by the side of the fire until, the ingredients become
creamy, then add vinegar, made mustard and pepper to taste, and
lastly the gherkin. Have ready some squares of hot well-buttered
toast, pour on the preparation, and serve quickly.
Time. — 10 minutes. Average Cost, about 6d. Sufficient for 2
persons, or 6 or 7 small savouries. Seasonable at any time.
2765. — LITTLE MOULDS OF SHRIMPS.
(Fr- — Petits Pains de Crevettes.)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of picked shrimps, 1 gill of cream, 1 gill of
stock, 2. eggs, 3 Spanish olives, 2 finely-chopped gherkins, 1 table-
spoonful ol chutney, cayenne, salt.
Method. — Stone the olives, pound them well with the shrimps, gher-
kins, and chutney in a mortar until smooth, adding the eggs separately
and the stock gradually, then pass through a fine sieve. Season with
cayenne and salt, then add the cream, previously stiffly whipped.
Have ready 8 well-buttered timbale or dariol moulds, sprinkle them
with red panurette breadcrumbs (this useful preparation is sold in
packets), and turn the mixture into them. Place the moulds in a
saute-pan, surround them with boiling water, and steam gently for
about 20 minutes. Serve with watercress sauce.
Time. — 45 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. qd. Sufficient for 6 or 7
persons. Seasonable at any time.
2766. — LOBSTER, CREAMED. (Fr.— Homard a la
Newbury.)
Ingredients. — 1 small lobster, 1 oz. of butter, 2 yolks of eggs, \ a gill
of thick cream, a few drops of lemon-juice, \ a teaspoonful of salt,
1 saltspoonful of Krona pepper, a pinch of nutmeg, 7 or 8 small croutes
of fried or toasted bread, parsley.
Method. — Chop the flesh of the lobster finely, cook it in the butter
for 6 or 7 minutes, stirring meanwhile, then add the yolks of eggs and
cream, previously mixed together, and the seasoning. Stir by the side
of the fire until the mixture thickens, then dish it on the croutes,
garnish with parsley, and serve hot.
Time. — Half an hour. Average Cost, is. 9d. to 2s. Sufficient for 6 or 7
persons. Seasonable, all the year.
SAVOURIES AND BREAKFAST DISHES
I2II
2767. — MACARONI CHEESE. {_Fr. — Macaroni au
Fromage.)
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of macaroni, 2 ozs. of cheese, 1 oz. of butter,
\ oz. of flour, \ pint of milk, made mustard, salt and pepper, browned
breadcrumbs.
Method. — Place a saucepan holding about 2 quarts of water on the
fire; when boiling add a dessertspoonful of salt and the macaroni
broken in small pieces, and cook until tender, but not too soft. Make
a sauce by blending the butter and flour together over the fire, add the
milk, stir until boiling, put in the cheese, macaroni, mustard, salt and
pepper to taste. Turn the mixture into a buttered pie-dish, sprinkle
the surface with brown breadcrumbs and grated cheese, and bake in a
brisk oven for about 10 minutes.
Time. — 40 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. Suflieient for 4 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
2768. — MARROW TOAST. (. Fr .— Croutes a la Moelle.)
Ingredients. — Marrow from 2 beef bones, buttered toast, salt and
pepper.
Method. — Soak the marrow in tepid water for about 2 hours. About
15 minutes before the dish is wanted, cut the marrow into inch lengths,
place them in cold water, bring rapidly to boiling-point, and drain
well. Have some squares of very hot, well-buttered toast, put the
marrow on them, breaking it up and spreading it with a fork, and
season with salt and pepper. Place the toast before the fire or in a
hot oven until the marrow is thoroughly melted, then serve as hot as
possible. When savoury marrow is preferred, sprinkle the above with
chopped parsley, chives, and lemon-juice, just before serving.
Time. — 2-| hours. Average Cost, 9d. to is. Suflieient for 6 or 7
persons. Seasonable at any time.
2769. — MARROW WITH MAiTRE D’HOTEL SAUCE.
(. Fr . — Moelle a la Maitre d’Hotel.)
Ingredients. — Marrow from 2 bones, buttered toast. For the sauce :
2 tablespoonfuls of good white sauce (see Sauces), 1 tablespoonful of
cream, 1 teaspoonful of finely chopped parsley, a few drops of lemon-
juice, Krona pepper.
Method. — Put the sauce and cream into a small stewpan, and when
hot add lemon-juice and seasoning to taste. Prepare the marrow
toast as in the preceding recipe, pour the sauce over, and serve.
Time. — 2 \ hours. Average Cost, is. to is. 3d. Sufficient for 6
or 7 persons. Seasonable at any time.
1212
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
2770. — MEDALLIONS OF FOIE GRAS. (Fr. — Medail-
lons de Foie Gras.)
Ingredients. — 1 terrine of foie gras, panada, 1 white of egg, cream,
salt and pepper, brown sauce, croutes. For garnish : asparagus
points cooked, strips of truffle, and hard-boiled white of egg.
Method. — Slice the foie gras and cut it into rounds of equal size.
Chop the trimmings finely, add to them an equal quantity of panada,
and pound well, adding the white of egg, a good seasoning of salt and
pepper, and a little cream. Pass through a fine sieve, spread smoothly
on one side of the medallions, and steam or poach them gently for 20
minutes. Place them on the croutes, garnish tastefully with strips
of truffle and egg interlaced, and serve with the sauce poured round.
Time. — To cook the medallions, about 20 minutes. Average Cost,
4s. 6d. Sullicient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.
2771. — MUSHROOM AND TOMATO TOAST.
Ingredients. — \ of a lb. of fresh mushrooms, 2 or 3 tomatoes, an oz.
of butter, salt and pepper, 2 rounds of toast, chopped parsley.
Method.- — Wash, peel and cut the mushrooms into dice. Heat the
butter in a stewpan, add the mushrooms, cook gently for 20 minutes,
and season to taste. Meanwhile squeeze the greater part of the juice
from the tomatoes, pass the pulp through a fine sieve, heat it in a stew-
pan, and season to taste, Place the prepared mushrooms on the toast,
spread the tomato puree lightly over the surface, sprinkle with parsley,
then serve.
Time.— About 1 hour. Average Cost, 6d. to yd. Sufficient for 2 per-
sons. Seasonable at any time.
2772. — MUSHROOMS AU GRATIN. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — Fresh mushrooms, grated Parmesan cheese, bread-
crumbs, finely-chopped parsley, finely-chopped shallot, butter, salt
and pepper.
Method. — Wash and peel the mushrooms, place them in a fireproof
baking-dish, sprinkle them lightly with salt, pepper, shallot, parsley
and cheese, and thickly with breadcrumbs, add a few small pieces of
butter, bake in a moderately hot oven for about 15 minutes, then serve
in the dish.
Time. — About 25 minutes. Average Cost, from 6d. to is. 6d. per
lb. Allow \ lb. for 2 or 3 persons. Seasonable, all the year.
2773. — MUSHROOMS, GRILLED. (See Mushrooms,
Broiled, No. 1530.)
1213
SAVOURIES AND BREAKFAST DISHES
2774. — MUSHROOM SOUFFLE.
Ingredients. — 6 large mushrooms peeled and finely chopped, 1 oz. of
butter, 1 oz. of flour, 4 yolks of eggs, 5 whites of eggs, \ of a pint of
milk, salt and pepper.
Method. — Melt the butter, stir in the flour, add the milk, and boil
gently for a few minutes, stirring briskly meanwhile. Beat each yolk
of egg in separately, stir in the minced mushrooms, and season to taste.
Whisk the whites of eggs stiffly, stir them lightly into the mixture, and
turn the whole into a well-buttered souffle tin or case. Bake in a fairly
hot oven for about I- an hour, and serve at once.
Time. — About f- of an hour. Average Cost, is. to is. 6d. Sufficient for
4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.
2775. — MUSHROOMS, STUFFED. (See Chapter on
Vegetables.)
2776. — OLIVES IN JELLY. (Fr. — Olives a l’Aspic.)
Ingredients. — Turned olives, anchovy butter No. 2454, watercress
butter, croutes of fried bread, aspic jelly, chervil.
Method. — Fill each olive with anchovy butter, and place them in
small moulds previously lined with aspic jelly, and decorated with
chervil. Fill the moulds with cold liquid aspic jelly, and keep on ice
until firm. Meanwhile spread each croute rather thickly with water-
cress butter, and, when ready, place the moulds upon them, then
serve.
Time. — Altogether, about iji hours. Average Cost, ild. to 2d. each.
Allow 1 to each person. Seasonable at any time.
2777. — OLIVES ON CROUTES. (Fr.- — Canapes aux
Olives.)
Ingredients. — 8 or 9 olives, 8 or 9 round croutes of fried bread, foie-
gras or liver farce No. 398, chervil.
Method. — Remove the stones from the olives and fill the cavities
with foie-gras, also spread the croutes with the same. Decorate the
top of each olive with a sprig of chervil, place them on the croutes,
and serve.
Time. - -Half an hour. Average Cost, is. to is. 6d. Sufficient for
6 or 7 persons. Seasonable at any time.
2778. — OYSTERS, FRIED. (Fr. — Fritot d’Huitres.')
Ingredients. — 8 or 10 oysters, fat bacon, 8 or 10 round croutes of fried
bread, \ a teaspoonful of very finely-chopped shallot, \ a teaspoonful
of finely-chopped parsley, lemon-juice, Krona pepper, frying-fat,
frying-batter ( see p. 882).
1214
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Beard the oysters, slice the bacon very thinly, and with a
sharp cutter stamp out small rounds from i-J- to if inches in diameter.
Season the oysters with lemon-juice and Krona pepper, place each one
between 2 rounds of bacon, pressing the edges firmly together. Make
the batter as directed, season it well with Krona pepper, add the
shallot and parsley, then dip in the rounds and fry them in hot fat until
nicely browned and crisp. Drain well, and serve on the prepared
croiites, sprinkled with chopped parsley or Krona pepper.
Time. —Half an hour. Average Cost, 2s. to 3s. Sufficient for 6 or
7 persons. Seasonable from September to April.
2779. — OYSTERS IN CASES. (Fr — Huitres en
Caisses a la Diable.)
Ingredients. — 12 large oysters, 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of white sauce
{see Sauces, No. 178), 1 tablespoonful of grated Parmesan cheese, butter,
breadcrumbs, cayenne, 8 or 9 china or paper souffle cases.
Method. — Beard the oysters, cut each one into 4 pieces, strain the
liquor into the white sauce, and boil until slightly reduced. Let the
sauce cool, then add it to the oysters, half the cheese, and cayenne to
taste. Brush the souffle cases over with oiled butter, and fill them
with the preparation. Mix the remainder of the cheese with an equal
quantity of breadcrumbs, cover the surface of the ragout lightly with
this mixture, add a few drops of oiled butter, and bake for 5 or 6 minutes
in a hot oven.
Time. — Half an hour. Average Cost, 2s., exclusive of the cases.
Sufficient for 8 or 9 persons. Seasonable from September to April.
2780. — OYSTERS IN SHELLS. (Fr— Huitres Gra-
tinees en Coquilles.)
Ingredients. — 18 oysters, 3 tablespoonfuls of Bechamel sauce No.
178, 1 oz. of butter, \ a lemon, cayenne, white breadcrumbs, parsley.
Method. — Open the oysters, remove the beards, strain and preserve
the liquor. Wash 9 deep shells, dry them, and coat the insides with
butter. Put a teaspoonful of Bechamel sauce in each shell, also a few
drops of liquor and lemon-juice, lay the oysters on the top, season with
a little cayenne, and cover with sauce. Sprinkle the entire surface
with breadcrumbs, lay a small piece of butter on the top of each, and
brown them slightly in a hot oven.
Time. — 15 minutes. Average Cost, from 2s. 6d. to 3s. Sufficient
for 9 coquilles. Seasonable from September to April.
2781. — OYSTERS ON TOAST. (Fr.— Huitres sur
Canapes.)
Ingredients. —12 oysters, cooked ham, white or brown bread, butter,
salt, cayenne, fried parsley.
SAVOURIES AND BREAKFAST DISHES
1215
Method. — Toast some thin slices of either white or brown bread,
and from them cut 12 rounds from 1} to 2 inches in diameter. Cover each
one with a round of ham of corresponding size, and place on it an oyster,
previously bearded. Season with a little salt and a tiny pinch of
cayenne, add a small piece of butter, then bake in a hot oven for about
3 minutes. Dish on a folded serviette or dish paper, garnish with fried
parsley, and serve.
Time. — 15 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. 3d. to 2s. qd. Sufficient for
12 canapes. Seasonable from September to April.
2782. — OLIVE SANDWICHES. (See Sandwiches.)
2783. — OYSTERS, SCALLOPED. (Fr. — Escallopes
aux Huitres.)
Ingredients. — 12 large or 18 small oysters, 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of
thick white sauce, lemon-juice, white breacrumbs, butter, pepper
and salt.
Method. — Blanch the oysters in their own liquor, remove the beards,
and cut them in halves. Strain the liquor into the white sauce, boil
until sufficiently reduced, then add lemon-juice, salt and pepper to
taste. Brush 8 or 9 small scallop shells over with nearly cold clarified
butter, and coat them with the breadcrumbs. Distribute the oysters
equally, add the prepared sauce, cover lightly with breadcrumbs,
put 2 or 3 morsels of butter on the top of each, bake in a quick oven
until nicely browned, and serve hot.
Time. — 20 minutes. Average Cost, is. qd. to 2s. qd. Sufficient
for 7 or 8 persons. Seasonable from September to April.
2784. - — OYSTER TIT-BITS. (Fr. — Bonnes Bouches
aux Huitres.)
Ingredients. — 8 or 9 oysters, 8 or 9 round croutes of 2-inches in
diameter, fried bread, bacon, anchovy paste, lemon-juice, butter, Krona
pepper.
Method. — Beard the oysters, place them between 2 plates with then-
own liquor and a small piece of butter, and warm in the oven or over
a saucepan of boiling water. Spread each croute with anchovy paste,
cover with a stamped-out round of very thin fried bacon, and place
an oyster on the top of each. Sprinkle with lemon-juice and Krona
pepper, and serve as hot as possible.
Time. -Half an hour. Average Cost, is. gd. to 2s. 9d. Sufficient for
6 or 7 persons. Seasonable from September to April.
1216
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
2785. — ROES ON TOAST. (See Croutes of Cod’s Roe,
No. 2747 ; Herring Roes, Croutes of, No. 2761 ;
and Herring Roe, Tit-Bits, No. 2763.)
2786. — SALTED ALMONDS. (Fr. — Amandes Salees.)
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of blanched whole almonds, £ of a pint of
salad-oil, i tablespoonful of celery-salt, i small saltspoonful of cayenne
pepper.
Method. — Fry the almonds in the oil until nicely browned, then drain
well, and toss them in the seasoning, which should be held in a sheet
of strong paper. Serve in small fancy paper cases.
Time. — 15 minutes. Average Cost, is. to is. 3d. Sufficient for 6 or 8
persons. Seasonable at any time.
2787. — SARDINE CANAPEES. ( See Sardine Crous-
tades, No. 2788 ; Sardines with Tomatoes, No.
2796 ; Sardines with Capers, No. 2797.)
2788. — SARDINE CROUSTADES. (Fr.— Croustades
de Sardines.)
Ingredients. — 2 large or 3 small sardines, 1 tablespoonful of white or
tomato sauce ( see Sauces), 1 teaspoonful of grated Parmesan cheese,
a few drops of lemon- juice, cayenne pepper, stale bread, clarified butter
or fat, watercress.
Method. — Cut slices of stale bread from \ to \ of an inch in thickness,
stamp out 8 or 9 rounds or oval shapes about 2 inches in diameter,
and with a smaller cutter make an inner circle or oval } of an inch from
the outer edge of the croustade. Fry them in hot clarified butter
or fat until lightly browned, then with the point of a small sharp knife
lift out the inner ring, remove all moist crumb, place them in a moderate
oven to become crisp and dry, and cool before using. Meanwhile
skin and bone the sardines, divide them into fine ^--inch strips, put
them with the sauce into a small stewpan, and, when using white sauce,
add also a few drops of anchovy essence. Season to taste with salt
and cayenne, add a few drops of lemon-juice, and when thoroughly
hot stir in the cheese. Fill the croustades with the preparation, garnish
with watercress seasoned with oil and vinegar, and serve.
Time. — 1 hour. Average Cost, 8d. or 9d. Sufficient for 7 or 8 per-
sons. Seasonable at any time.
SAVOURIES AND BREAKFAST DISHES
1217
2789. — SARDINES, DEVILLED. (Fr.— Sardines a la
Diable.)
Ingredients. — 8 or 10 sardines, 8 or 10 fried finger-shaped crofites,
1 oz. of butter, 1 finely-chopped shallot, lemon-juice, cayenne, Krona
pepper, salt.
Method. — Skin the sardines, split them down the back, remove the
bone, and replace the two halves. Sprinkle them with lemon-juice,
shallot, cayenne, and salt, cover and let them remain for ■§■ an hour,
during which time they must be turned once, and again sprinkled with
lemon-juice, etc. Heat the butter in a saute-pan, drain and dry the
sardines, rub them over lightly with flour, and fry them until nicely
browned. Meanwhile fry the croutes in clarified butter or fat, lay on
each a sardine, sprinkle with lemon-juice and Krona pepper, and serve
as hot as possible.
Time. — 1 hour. Average Cost, is. to is. 2d. Sufficient for 6
or 8 persons. Seasonable at any time.
2790. — SARDINE ECLAIRS. (Fr. — Eclairs de Sar-
dines.) (See Anchovy Eclairs, No. 2712.)
2791. — SARDINE EGGS. (Fr. — Sardines aux CEufs.)
Ingredients. — 4 sardines, 4 hard-boiled eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of white
sauce, 1 teaspoonful of essence of anchovy, watercress, cayenne, 1
dessertspoonful of coarsely-chopped pickled gherkin.
Method. — Cut the eggs across in halves, trim off the extreme end
of each to enable them to stand firmly, and carefully remove the yolks.
Skin and bone the sardines, chop them coarsely, and pound them
together with the yolks of eggs still smooth. Add the anchovy essence
and the white sauce gradually until a moist paste is obtained, then
season to taste, and rub through a hair sieve. Add the gherkin to the
preparation, put it into the white of egg cases, garnish with watercress
seasoned with oil and vinegar, and serve.
Time. — 1 hour. Average Cost, is. to is. 2d. Sufficient for 8 per-
sons. Seasonable at any time.
2792. — SARDINES, FRIED. (Fr. — Beignets de
Sardines.)
Ingredients. — 4 or 5 sardines, \ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley,
1 finely-chopped shallot, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, cayenne, Krona
pepper, frying-fat, frying-batter ( see p. 882).
Method. — Skin, bone and divide the sardines in halves, sprinkle
over them the lemon-juice, parsley and shallot, cover with a plate,
and let them remain for 1 hour. Make the batter as directed, dip in
R R
1218
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
the sardines, fry them in hot fat until nicely browned, then drain
well. Arrange in a pyramidal form on a hot dish, sprinkle with Krona
pepper, and serve.
Time. — 1\ hours. Average Cost, pd. Sufficient for 6 or 8
persons. Seasonable at any time.
Note. — For another method of frying, see Anchovy Aigrettes. Four
sardines may be substituted for the anchovies, the other ingredients remaining
the same.
279 3. — SARDINES, GRILLED. (See Sardines Devil-
led, No. 2789.)
Prepare the sardines as directed, but instead of frying them, grill
them over, or in front of, a clear fire.
Ingredients. — 2 large or 3 small sardines, 1 tablespoonful of white
sauce ( see Sauces), 1 teaspoonful of grated Parmesan cheese, a few
drops of lemon-juice, a few drops of anchovy essence, cayenne, puff
paste No. 1665, fried parsley.
Method. — Prepare 8 patty cases i-| inches in diameter ( see No. 795),
when baked, remove and put aside the lids, scoop out the soft inside,
and keep the cases hot until required. Skin and bone the sardines,
and divide them into line |--inch strips. Put the sauce and sardines
into a small stewpan; when hot, add the anchovy essence, lemon-juice
and cayenne to taste, and stir in the cheese. Fill the cases with the
preparation, put on the lids, garnish with crisply-fried parsley, and
serve.
Time. — 1 hour. Average Cost, 5d., exclusive of the puff paste.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable at any time.
2795. — SARDINE TOAST. (Fr. — Croutes de Sardines.)
Ingredients — 4 sardines, -J- an oz. of butter, the yolks of 2 eggs, 2
tablespoonfuls of milk, 1 teaspoonful of essence of anchovy, toast,
butter, cayenne.
Method. — Skin and bone the sardines and chop them coarsely. Put
the milk and butter into a stewpan; when hot, add the prepared sar-
dines, anchovy essence and a little cayenne, and last of all the yolks
of eggs. Stir bjr the side of the fire until the eggs thicken, but do not
let them, boil, or they may curdle. Have ready well-buttered squares
of toast, pour on the preparation, and serve as quickly as possible.
Time. — 20 minutes. Average Cost, pd. Sufficient for 3 or 4
persons. Seasonable at any time.
2794.— SARDINE PATTIES.
Sardines.)
de
SAVOURIES AND BREAKFAST DISHES
1219
2796. — SARDINES WITH TOMATOES.
(Fr- — Sardines a la Napolitaine.)
Ingredients. — 8 small or 4 large sardines, 8 finger-shaped croutes of
fried bread or buttered toast, 2 tomatoes, 1 teaspoonful of cornflour,
1 teaspoonful of grated Parmesan cheese, pepper and salt.
Method. — Skin the sardines, remove the bones, and divide them in
halves if large. Squeeze as much juice as possible from the tomatoes,
and rub the pulp through a fine sieve. Put it into a small stewpan;
when hot add the cornflour, previously blended with a little tomato-
juice, and stir until it thickens. Season with salt and pepper, stir
in the cheese, and spread each croute lightly with the preparation.
Lay the sardines on the top, cover with a thin layer of the tomato
mixture, place in the oven until thoroughly hot, then serve.
Time. — Half an hour. Average Cost, iod. Sufficient for 6 or 8
persons. Seasonable at any time.
2797. — SARDINES WITH CAPERS. (Fr.— Sardines
aux Capres.)
Ingredients. — 4 or 5 sardines, 1 level dessertspoonful of finely -chopped
capers, 2 tablespoonfuls of liquid meat glaze, grated Parmesan cheese,
buttered toast or fried finger-shaped croutons, cayenne.
Method. — Skin and bone the sardines, and divide them in halves.
Prepare the croutes or cut the toast into fingers, place ^ a sardine on
each, add a few grains of cayenne, sprinkle liberally with cheese, cover
with a buttered paper, and make thoroughly hot in the oven. Heat the
glaze, add to it the capers, pour it over the sardines, and serve as hot
as possible.
Time. — Half an hour. Average Cost, is. Sufficient for 6 or 8 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
2798. - SARDINES WITH MAITRE D’HOTEL SAUCE.
(Fr. — Sardines a la Maitre d’Hotel.)
Ingredients.-— 4 or 5 sardines, 2 tablespoonfuls of thick white sauce
{see Sauces), 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 1 teaspoonful
of lemon-juice, toast, butter, Krona pepper.
Method. — Skin and bone the sardines, and divide them in halves.
Cut the toast into fingers, butter them well, place -1 a sardine on each,
season with Krona pepper, cover with a buttered paper, and make
thoroughly hot in the oven. Meanwhile, add the parsley and lemon-
juice to the hot white sauce, season to taste, and when ready to serve
pour it over the sardines and toast.
Time.— Half an hour. Average Cost, 6d. Sufficient for 6 or 8
persons. Seasonable at any time.
i220
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
2799. — SAVOURY TOMATOES. (See Tomatoes, Baked,
No. 1611; Tomatoes, Stuffed, No. 1617
Tomatoes Stuffed with Mushrooms, No. 1618,
and other Recipes given in Chapter XXX.
2800. — SCALLOPS. ( See Recipes No. 615-621.)
2801. — SCALLOPED LOBSTER.
Ingredients. — 1 hen lobster, -J- of a pint of white sauce, 2 yolks of eggs,
anchovy essence, butter, breadcrumbs, cayenne, salt and pepper.
Method. — Remove the spawn, pound it with i oz. of butter, and pass
it through a line sieve. Cut the flesh of the lobster into small dice.
Heat the sauce, add the pounded spawn, \ a teaspoonful of anchovy
essence, cayenne and seasoning to taste. Stir over the fire for a few
minutes, add the lobster and yolks of eggs, and continue to stir and
cook slowly for 2 or 3 minutes longer. Turn into well-buttered scallop
shells, or the lobster shell if preferred, and add a thin layer of bread-
crumbs. Sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper, add a few small pieces
of butter, and bake in a moderate oven for about \ an hour.
Time. — To bake the scallops, about \ an hour. Average Cost, from
2S. to 2s. 6d. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable from July to
September.
2802. — SCALLOPED LOBSTER (TINNED.)
Ingredients. — 1 tin of lobster (a good brand), j of a pint of white
sauce, Jr a teaspoonful of anchovy essence, buttei', breadcrumbs, salt,
cayenne.
Method. — Take the lobster out of the tin, and cut the flesh into small dice.
Make the white sauce as directed (see Sauces, No. 222), add about \ a
teaspoonful of anchovy essence, salt to taste, and a liberal seasoning of
cayenne. Place the prepared lobster in well-buttered scallop shells, cover
lightly with sauce, and add a thin layer of breadcrumbs. Sprinkle with
oiled butter, bake until lightly browned, then serve.
Time. — To bake the scallops, about 20 minutes. Average Cost, is.
Sufficient for 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
2803. — SCOTCH WOODCOCK. (Fr.— Anchois a
l’Ecossaise.)
Ingredients. — The yolks of 2 eggs, 1 gill of cream (or cream and milk
in equal parts), anchovy paste, toast, butter, cayenne, salt.
Method. — Cut the toast into 2-inch squares, butter well, and spread
them with anchovy paste. Season the yolks with a little cayenne and
SAVOURIES AND BREAKFAST DISHES
1221
salt; when slightly beaten add them to the hot cream, stir over the
fire until they thicken sufficiently, then pour the preparation over'fhe
toast, and serve as hot as possible.
Time. — io minutes. Average Cost, rod., when cream is used.
Sufficient for 6 or 8 persons. Seasonable at any time.
2804. — SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH ANCHOVIES.
(Fr. — GEufs Brouilles aux Anchois.)
Ingredients — 3 eggs, 3 anchovies, J- of an oz. of butter, 1 tablcspocnful
of cream or milk, \ a teaspoonful of essence of anchovy, toast, butter,
capers, parsley, pepper and salt.
Method. — Skin and bone the anchovies, and cut them into fine strips.
Cut the toast into pieces 3 inches long and 2 inches wide, and spread
them thickly with butter. Beat the eggs slightly, then put them with
the butter, cream, and anchovy essence into the stewpan, and season
to taste. Stir by the side of the fire until the mixture thickens, put
it on the toast, lay the strips of anchovy across, forming a lattice,
and place a caper in each division. Rc-heat in the oven, then serve
garnished with parsley.
Time. — 40 minutes. Average Cost, about iod. Sufficient for
5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
2805. — SHRIMP TOAST. (Fr. — Crevettes sur Croutes.)
Ingredients. — 4 of a pint of picked shrimps, anchovy paste, \ an oz.
of butter, 1 egg, 1 tablespoonful of milk, salt, cayenne, 8 croutes of
buttered toast.
Method. — Melt the butter in a stewpan, put in the shrimps, and when
hot add the eggs and milk, previously beaten together, salt and cayenne
to taste, and stir by the side of the fire until the mixture thickens.
Meanwhile spread the toast lightly with anchovy paste, and now
add the shrimp preparation, and serve as hot as possible.
Time. — 20 minutes. Average Cost, pd. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
2806. — SMOKED HADDOCK CROUSTADES.
(Fr. — Croustades a la St. George.)
Ingredients. — \ a small dried haddock, 1 oz. of butter, \ a pint of milk,
2 eggs, 1 finely-chopped shallot, 1 teaspoonful of finefy-chopped parsley,
brown bread, nutmeg, pepper, Krona pepper.
Method. — Pour boiling water over the fish, and let it remain covered
for 10 minutes, then remove the skin and bones, and divide the haddock
into large flakes. Place these in a stewpan with the hot milk, simmer
gently for jo minutes, then strain, put the milk aside, and chop the tish
finely. Heat the butter in a stewpan, fry the shallot without browning,
1222
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
then put in the fish and parsley, and when hot add the eggs, previously
beaten with 2 tablespoonfuls of the milk in which the haddock was
cooked. Season to taste with pepper and nutmeg, and stir by the
side of the fire until the mixture thickens. Meanwhile prepare 8
croustades of brown bread (see Caviare Croustades, No. 2724A fill them
with the fish preparation, garnish with parsley and Krona pepper,
and serve as hot as possible.
Time. — 40 minutes. Average Cost, 8d. or 9d. Sufficient for 6 or 7
persons. Seasonable at any time.
2807. — SMOKED HADDOCK CROUTES.
(Fr. — Croutes de Merluche fumee.)
Ingredients. —2 tablespoonfuls of finely-chopped cooked haddock,
an oz. of butter, \ an oz. of flour, J of a pint of milk, anchovy essence,
} a teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, Krona pepper, cayenne,
8 round croutes (2 inches in diameter) of fried bread.
Method. — Heat the butter in a small stewpan, stir in the flour, pour
in the milk, and boil well. Add the fish, anchovy essence, Krona
pepper, and cayenne to taste, and stir until thoroughly hot. Pile
lightly on the croutes, garnish with parsley and Krona pepper, and
serve as hot as possible.
Time. — 15 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
2808. — SMOKED HADDOCK SOUFFLE. (Fr.— Souffle
de Merluche fumee.)
Ingredients. — 1 small cooked smoked haddock, 1 oz. of butter, 2 eggs,
anchovy essence, cayenne, Krona pepper, 8 or 9 china or paper souffle
cases, clarified butter.
Method. — Coat the souffle cases thickly with butter. Pound the fish
whilst warm, adding the yolks of the eggs one at a time and the butter
gradually, season highly with cayenne and Krona pepper, and when
perfectly smooth pass through a fine sieve. Whisk the whites of egg
to a stiff froth, stir them lightly into the mixture, fill the cases full,
and bake in a quick oven for about 10 minutes. Sprinkle with Krona
pepper, and serve quickly.
Time. — Half an hour. Average Cost, 8d. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
2809.— SWISS EGGS. (Fr. — CEufs a la Suisse.)
Ingredients. — 8 eggs, 3 tablespoonfuls of grated cheese, i-J ozs. of
butter, salt and pepper, cayenne.
SAVOURIES AND BREAKFAST DISHES
1223
Method. — Butter 8 china ramakin cases, put a small teaspoonful of
cheese at the bottom of each one, and add a little seasoning. Break
the eggs carefully, keeping the yolks whole, lay one in each case,
cover with a small teaspoonful of cheese, add a little seasoning, place,
a small piece of butter on the top, and bake until set. Serve hot.
Time. — 10 minutes. Average Cost, is. 3d. to is. c;d. Sufficient for 6
or 7 persons Seasonable at any time
2810. — TOASTED CHEESE. (. Fr . — Croutes au Fro-
mage.)
Ingredients. — 6 ozs. of Cheshire or Cheddar cheese, 1 oz. of butter,
1 mustardspoonful of dry mustard, cayenne, buttered toast.
Method. -Knead the butter, mustard, and a good pinch of cayenne
well together on a plate. Prepare 1 slice of buttered toast, trim the
edges, cover with half the cheese sliced very thinly, and spread on half
the butter. Now add the remainder of the slices of cheese, cover with
butter as above, and cook in a Dutch oven before the fire until the
cheese is melted. Serve as hot as possible.
Time. — 20 minutes. Average Cost, yd. or 8d. Sufficient for 2
persons. Seasonable at any time.
2811. - WELSH RABDIT OR RAREBIT.
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of Cheshire or Cheddar cheese, f an oz. of butter,
2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of milk or ale, mustard, pepper, buttered toast.
Method. — Cut the cheese into small pieces, place these in a saucepan
with the butter, milk, or ale, \ a mustardspoonful of mustard and
pepper to taste, and stir the mixture by the side of the fire until it
resembles thick cream. Have ready some squares of hot well-buttered
toast, pour on the cheese preparation, and serve at once.
Time. — 10 minutes. Average Cost, 5d. or 6d. Sufficient for 6 or 7
persons, if served as a savoury. Seasonable at any time.
2812. — WOODCOCK TOAST.
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of chicken or duck livers, 2 anchovies, 1 oz. of
butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, 3 yolks of eggs, \ of a teaspoonful of
castor sugar, \ of a teaspoonful of paprika or Krona pepper, salt,
buttered toast.
Method. — Bone and skin the anchovies and pound them to a paste.
Wash, drain, and dry the livers, and pound them also ; pass both
livers and anchovies through a fine sieve. Add to them the butter,
cream, yolks of eggs, castor sugar, paprika or Krona pepper, salt to
taste, and stir in a stewpan by the side of the fire until the mixture
thickens. Have ready some buttered toast, pour on the preparation,
and serve at once.
Time. — Quarter of an hour. Average Cost, is. to is. 3d. Sufficient
fer 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable at any time.
T224
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
2813. — YORKSHIRE RABBIT OR RAREBIT.
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of Cheshire or Cheddar cheese, anoz. of butter,
3 tablespoonfuls of milk or ale, Worcester sauce or vinegar, mustard,
pepper, buttered toast, 2 poached eggs.
Method. — Cut th ■ cheese into small pieces, place them in a saucepan
with the butter, milk or ale, add a little made mustard, a few drops
of Worcester sauce or vinegar, pepper to taste, stir and cook gently
until the mixture resembles thick cream. Meanwhile, prepare 1 shce
of buttered toast, trim the edges and cut it in two, and poach the
eggs in as plump a form as possible. Pour the cheese preparation
over the toast, lay the eggs on the top, and serve quickly.
Time. — Quarter of an hour. Average Cost, about 8d. Sufficient for 2
persons. Seasonable at any time.
2814. — ZEPHIRES OF CHEESE. (Fr.—Ze phires au
Parmesan.)
Ingredients. — 3 heaped tablespoonfuls of Parmesan cheese, 1 oz. of
gelatine, \ a pint of cream, \ a pint of milk, cayenne, salt.
Method. — Soak the gelatine in the milk for \ an hour, then stir it over
the fire until it is dissolved. Let it cool, add the cheese, the cream
previously stiffly-whipped, and seasoning to taste. Turn into oval
fluted zephire moulds, set on ice until firm, then unmould and serve
garnished with chopped aspic jelly and shredded truffle and pimiento.
Time. — About 4 hours. Average Cost, is. 3d. to is. 6d. Sufficient
for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Note. — By changing the shape of the mould, the term Zephire may be ap-
plied to many of the preparations described as Dariols, Timbales and Souffles.
Breakfast Dishes
2815.— AMERICAN FISH PIE.
Ingredients. — £ a lb. of cooked turbot, cod or other white fish, f of a lb.
of mashed potato, i-§- ozs. of butter, 1 oz. of grated Parmesan cheese,
\ a pint of white sauce ( see Sauces), 2 yolks of eggs, 1 whole egg, nutmeg,
salt and pepper, cayenne.
Method. — Free the fish from skin and bones, divide it into large
flakes, and put them into a stewpan with \ an oz. of butter, the sauce
and cheese, season with salt, pepper, and a few grains of cayenne, and
heat gradually by the side of the fire. Melt the remaining ounce of
butter in another stewpan, add the potato, 2 yolks of eggs, season well
with salt and pepper, and stir the ingredients vigorously over the fire
until thoroughly hot. Have ready a well buttered pie-dish, line the
bottom and sides thinly with potato puree, using about half of it, put
BREAKFAST DISHES
1225
in the prepared fish, and cover with the remainder of the potato.
Smooth the surface and notch the edges with a knife, giving it The
appearance of a paste crust, brush it over with egg, sprinkle liberally
with grated cheese, and bake in a moderately-hot oven until well
browned. Serve hot.
Average Cost, iod., exclusixe of the fish. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
2816. — BACON AND MACARONI.
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of macaroni, 4 ozs. of streaky bacon, \ a pint of
stock, 1 oz. of butter, nutmeg, salt and pepper.
Method. — Break the macaroni into small pieces, put them into
slightly salted boiling water, boil rapidly for 5 minutes, then drain
well. Have the stock boiling in a stewpan, put in the macaroni
and stew until tender, but not too soft. Cut the bacon into small dice,
fry slightly in a saute-pan, then add the well-drained macaroni, butter,
a good pinch of nutmeg, and salt and pepper to taste. Stir gently
over the fire until the macaroni acquires a nice brown colour, then turn
on to a hot dish, and serve.
Time. —About 40 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. Sufficient for 2 or 3
persons.
2817. — BACON OLIVES.
Ingredients. — 8 small thin slices of bacon, 3 ozs. of finely-chopped
cooked meat, 1 oz. of finely-chopped cooked ham or tongue, 1} table-
spoonfuls of breadcrumbs, \ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, % a
teaspoonful of finely-chopped onion, J of a teaspoonful of powdered
mixed herbs, 1 egg, salt and pepper, nutmeg, croutes of toasted bread,
£ ot a pint of tomato or piquante sauce ( see Sauces, Nos. 282 and 265).
Method. — Mix the meat, ham, breadcrumbs, onion, parsley, and herbs
together, add a pinch of nutmeg, season to taste with salt and pepper,
and stir in gradually as much of the egg as is necessary to bind the whole
together. Put aside for about 4 an hour, then divide it into 8 portions ;
shape them in the form of a cork, roll them in a piece of bacon, and secure
with twine or large pins. Bake in a moderately hot oven for about
4 an hour, then dish on the croutes, garnish with fried parsley, and serve
the sauce separately.
Time. — About J of an hour. Average Cost, iod. Sufficient for 4
persons. Seasonable at any time.
2818. — BACON, TOAST AND EGGS.
Ingredients. —3 or 4 rashers of fried bacon, 1 round of toast. 2 eggs
scrambled ( see Scrambled F.gg, No. 2009).
1226
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Make the toast and fry the bacon crisply. Scramble
the eggs as directed, pile the prepara ion on the toast, arrange the bacon
round the base, and serve on a hot dish.
Time. — 15 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. to yd. Sufficient for 1 or 2
persons. Seasonable at any time.
2819. — BAKED LOBSTER. ( Fr . — Homard au Gra-
tin.)
Ingredients. — 1 tin of lobster, \ a pint of milk, 1 tablespoonful of
cream, 1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, 1 finely-chopped small shallot or
onion, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), a blade of mace,
essence of anchovy, brown breadcrumbs, salt and pepper.
Method. — Melt the butter in a stewpan, fry the shallot without
browning, add the milk and stir until it boils. Now put in the bouquet-
garni, mace, salt and pepper to taste, simmer gently for 10 minutes,
then add the cream and a few drops of anchovy essence. Meanwhile
divide the lobster into pieces convenient for serving, place them in a
gratin dish or a china baking dish that may be sent to table, pour over
the prepared sauce, sprinkle lightly with brown breadcrumbs, add a
few morsels of butter, and bake in a moderate oven for about 10 minutes.
Serve hot in the dish in which it is baked.
Time. — About half an hour. Average Cost, about is. 2d. Sufficient
for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.
2820. — BEEF POLANTINE.
Ingredients. — 8 ozs. of cold roast beef, 1 gill of brown sauce {see
Sauces, No. 233), 1 oz. of butter, 2 ripe firm tomatoes, 2 medium-sized
onions, frying-fat, milk, flour, salt and pepper, \ of a pint of gravy.
Method. — Cut the meat into short fine shreds, put them into a stew-
pan with the sauce, a good seasoning of salt and pepper, nutmeg to
taste, and warm gradually. Peel the onions, cut them across
in slices, divide the slices into rings, dip these in milk and then in flour,
fry in hot fat and keep them warm. Slice the tomatoes and fry them
in hot butter, season them with salt and pepper, and arrange them
on a hot dish. Place the meat on the top of the tomatoes, and garnish
with the rings of fried onion. Pour the gravy round, and serve.
Time. — About half an hour. Average Cost, is., exclusive of the meat.
Sufficient for 2 or 3 persons. Seasonable at any time.
2821. — BLOATERS. ( See Recipe No. 418.)
2822. — BLOATER FRITTERS. (Fr . — Beignets de Ka-
reng fume.)
Ingredients. — 2 bloaters, 1 oz. of grated cheese, frying batter ( see
p. 882), frying-fat, Krona pepper.
BREAKFAST DISHES
1227
Method. — Split the bloaters, remove the heads, skin, bones, and divide
each half into 3 or 4 pieces, according to size. Make the batter as
directed, stir in the cheese, dip in the pieces of fish, coating them care-
fully, and fry in hot fat until nicely browned. Drain well, sprinkle
with Krona pepper, and serve as hot as possible.
Time. — Half an hour. Average Cost, 7d. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
2823. — BRAIN FRITTERS. ( Fr . — Beignets de Cer-
velles.)
Ingredients. — Calf’s or pig’s brains, 1 tablespoonful of salad-oil or
liquid butter, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 1 of a teaspoonful
of finely-chopped shallot or onion, vinegar, frying-fat, frying batter
{see p. 882), fried parsley.
Method. — Wash the brains in salt and water, then put them into a
saucepan, with cold water to cover, a dessertspoonful of vinegar, a
little salt, and boil for 5 minutes. Let them remain in cold water until
cold, then drain well, cut into neat pieces, and sprinkle over them the
oil, parsley, shallot, a teaspoonful of vinegar, and a little salt and
pepper. Keep them in this marinade for \ an hour, turning them
2 or 3 times. Have the batter ready, coat each piece carefully, and
fry in hot fat until nicely browned. Drain well, and serve in a folded
serviette, garnished with fried parsley. If preferred, tomato or
piquante sauce may accompany this dish.
Time. — To fry the fritters, from 7 to 10 minutes. Average Cost, 9d.,
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Note. — See Chapter XV., pages 438 and 439, for other methods of cooking brains.
2824. — CHICKEN LEGS, STUFFED. (Fr.— Cuisses
de Poulet farcis.)
Ingredients. — 2 legs of a chicken, 1 tablespoonful of finely-chopped
cooked ham or tongue, 2 tablespoonfuls of breadcrumbs, -1 a teaspoonful
of finely-chopped parsley, £ of a teaspoonful of powdered mixed herbs,
the yolk of 1 egg, 2 tablespoonfuls of oiled butter, buttered toast,
pig’s caul (or 4 rashers of bacon), salt and pepper, breadcrumbs.
Method. — Divide each leg in half, remove all skin and the drumsticks,
score the flesh deeply-, season with salt and pepper, and baste well with
the oiled butter. Mix the ham, breadcrumbs, parsley and herbs
together, add the butter used for basting the legs, a liberal seasoning
of salt and pepper, and bind with the yolk of the egg. Spread the farce
evenly over the pieces of chicken, enclose them in well washed and dried
caul, or, failing this, use rashers of bacon, and secure them with string.
Brush them over with white of egg, sprinkle lightly with brown bread-
1228
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
crumbs, and bake them in a moderate oven from 25 to 35 minutes,
basting occasionally with hot butter or fat. Serve on round or oval
shaped croutons of hot, well-buttered toast.
Time. — To bake the legs, from 25 to 35 minutes. Average Cost, iod.
Sufllcient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.
2825. — CLAM CHOWDER. (An American Dish.)
Ingredients. — 50 clams, £ a lb. of ham or bacon, 8 water-biscuits, 2
medium sized onions coarsely-chopped, 1 dessertspoonful of finely-
chopped parsley, ^ a teaspoonful of powdered mixed herbs, salt and
pepper.
Method. — Clams are a bivalvular shell-fish, extensively used in
American cookery, and to some extent on the Cornish and Devonshire
coasts, where they are found. Soyer declared that their flavour was
superior to that of the oyster. Wash the clams in several waters,
put them into a saucepan with a little water to protect the bottom
of the pan, and as soon as the shells begin to open, take out the clams
and strain, and preserve the liquor which runs from the shells. Pound
or crush the biscuits to a fine powder, fry the bacon or ham, and cut
it into dice ; mix together the herbs, parsley, a small teaspoonful of
salt and a of a teaspoonful of pepper. Cover the bottom of a stewpan
with bacon, add a thin layer of onion, sprinkle with powdered biscuit
and seasoning, and on the top place about a quarter of the clams.
Repeat until the materials are used, then pour in the liquor from the
clam shells, and as much boiling water as will barely cover the whole.
Cover closely, and cook gently for about 1 £ hours. Serve in a deep
dish, and, if liked, flavour the gravy with a little mushroom ketchup,
or some cruet sauce. There are numerous variations of this dish;
salt pork frequently replaces the ham; veal may be used in addition
to ham or pork, and a tin of tomatoes is by many considered a great
improvement.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, is. 9d. Sufficient for 5 or 6
persons. Seasonable from August to March.
2826. — CODFISH PIE. (Fr. — Pate de Cabillaud.)
Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of cod, 2 tablespoonfuls of finely-shredded raw or
cooked ham or bacon, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 1 oz.
of butter, 1 oz. of flour, salt and pepper, paste No. 1666, or mashed
potato.
Method. — Boil the cod in a small quantity of water, which afterwards
strain, and reduce by rapid boiling to | of a pint. Remove the skin
and bones, and divide the fish into large flakes, mix lightly into it
the ham and parsley, and season with salt and pepper, Melt the butter
BREAKFAST DISHES
1229
in a stewpan, stir in the flour, add the liquor in which the fish was
cooked, boil for 5 minutes, and season to taste. Place the fish mixture
in a well-greased pie-dish in layers, and moisten each layer with the
prepared sauce. Cover with a thin crust of paste {see Veal Pie, No.
789), or mashed potato like Shepherd’s Pie, No. 1069. Bake in a
moderately hot oven for about an hour, or until the paste is sufficiently
cooked and nicely browned, and serve hot, or re-heat at the time of
serving.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, is. 6d. to is. iod. Sufficient
for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable from September to April.
2827. — COD’S ROE, CROQUETTES OF. (Fr.— Cro-
quettes de Laitance de Cabillaud.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of cod’s roe, of a pint of milk, 1 oz. of butter,
1 dessertpoonful of flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of mashed potato, 1 table-
spoonful of breadcrumbs, 1 dessertspoonful of finely-chopped parsley,
\ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped shallot or onion, \ a teaspoonful of
powdered mixed herbs, 2 eggs, breadcrumbs, frying-fat, fried parsley.
Method. — Boil the roe as in the following recipe, and when cold chop
it coarsely. Melt the butter in a stewpan, fry the shallot slightly,
stir in the flour, add the milk, boil for a few minutes, then put
in the potato, 1 tablespoonful of breadcrumbs, the roe, parsley, herbs,
and 1 egg. Season well with salt and pepper, stir over the fire until the
mixture becomes thoroughly hot and the egg sufficiently cooked, then
spread on a plate to cool. When ready to use, shape the croquettes
in the form of corks or balls, brush them over with beaten egg, cover
with breadcrumbs, and fry in hot fat until nicely browned. Drain
and serve garnished with fried parsley.
Time. — About \ an hour from cooked roe. Average Cost, is.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable in winter.
2828. — COD’S ROE, FRIED. (Fr. — Fritot de Laitance
de Cabillaud.)
Ingredients. — \\ lbs. of cod’s roe, 1 dessertspoonful of vinegar, 1 small
onion, 6 peppercorns, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf),
1 egg, breadcrumbs, frying-fat, fried parsley.
Method. — Well wash the roe in salt and water, then put it into a
stewpan with the onion sliced, vinegar, \ a teaspoonful of salt, boiling
water to cover, and simmer gently for about 1% hours. When cold,
cut into thick slices, coat with egg and breadcrumbs, and fry in hot
fat in a frying-pan, or in a deep pan of hot fat, until nicely browned.
Drain well, garnish with fried parsley, and serve.
Time. — About 3 hours. Average Cost, is, Sufficient for 4 or 5
persons. Seasonable in winter,
1230
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
2829. — COD’S ROE, NORFOLK STYLE. (Fr.— Lai-
tance de Cabillaud a la Norfolk.)
Ingredients. — 1-|- lbs. of cod’s roe, i{- pints of milk, i-J- ozs. of butter,
lj ozs. of flour, 1 dessertspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, \ a tea-
spoonful of lemon-juice, a few drops of essence of anchovy, 1 small
o rion sliced, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 6 peppercorns,
vinegar, salt and pepper.
Method. — Wash the roe well in salt and water, then put it into a
stewpan with 1 dessertspoonful of vinegar, \ a teaspoonful of salt,
boiling water to barely cover, and simmer gently for f- of an hour.
Have ready the milk boiling in a stewpan, add the onion, bouquet-
garni, peppercorns, and the roe, previously well drained. Simmer
gently for 1 hour, then turn into a basin and put aside until cold. When
ready to use, cut the roe into thick slices; melt the butter in a stewpan,
add the flour, cook for 2 or 3 minutes, then strain and pour in the milk,
and stir until it boils. Now add the lemon-juice, parsley, anchovy
essence, salt and pepper to taste, put in the slices of roe, baste them
well with the sauce, and as soon as they are thoroughly hot, then serve.
Time. — From 2 to 2} hours. Average Cost, is. to is. 2d. Sufficient
for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable in winter.
2830. — COD STEAKS. (Fr. — Tranches de Cabillaud.)
Ingredients. — 2 slices of cod 1 to inches thick, 1 tablespoonful of
flour, \ a teaspoonful of salt, ^ of a teaspoonful of pepper, 2 table-
spoonfuls of oiled butter, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, frying-fat.
Method. — Wash and thoroughly dry the fish. Mix together the flour,
salt and pepper, and coat the fish completely with the mixture. Have
ready in a frying-pan a good layer of hot fat, put in the fish and fry
until crisp and well browned on both sides. Meanwhile melt the
butter, add to it the lemon-juice, and, if liked, a little finely-chopped
parsley, or omit both lemon-juice and parsley, and serve simply with
oiled butter. When more convenient the fish may be baked in the
oven, but it lacks the crispness obtained by frying.
Time. — Half an hour. Average Cost, about iod. Sufficient for 3 or 4
persons. Seasonable from September to April.
2831. — COD STEAKS, CARDINAL STYLE.
(Fr.- — Tranches de Cabillaud a la Cardinal.)
Ingredients. — 2 slices of cod \\ to i-§- inches thick, 2 tomatoes, i-J- ozs.
of butter, 1 oz. of flour, |- of a pint of milk, a little finely-chopped
parsley, a few drops of carmine or cochineal, salt and pepper.
Method. — Wash and wipe the slices of fish place them in a baking-
dish, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. On the top of the fish place
Jr an oz. of butter in small pieces, cover with a greased paper, and bake
BREAKFAST DISHES
1231
from 20 to 25 minutes. While they are cooking, melt the remaining
oz. of butter in a stewpan, stir in the flour, add the milk, and boil well.
Pass the tomatoes through a hair sieve, and add the puree to the con-
tents of the stewpan. When the fish is done, remove it to a hot dish,
strain the liquor from it, and add it to the sauce. Season to taste,
add carmine or cochineal until a bright-red colour is obtained, and
pour it over the fish. Sprinkle on a little parsley and serve.
Time. — Half an hour. Average Cost, xod. Sufficient for 3 or 4
persons. Seasonable from September to April.
2832. — COLD MEAT KEDGEREE.
Ingredients. — 6 ozs. of coarsely-chopped cooked meat, 4 ozs. of cooked
rice, 2 hard-boiled eggs, 1 oz. of butter, 1 finely-chopped shallot or
small onion, \ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, nutmeg, salt
and pepper.
Method. — Prepare the rice as for curry (see No. 2973), chop the whites
of the eggs coarsely, rub the yolks through a wire sieve and keep them
warm. Melt the butter in a stewpan, slightly fry the shallot or onions,
add the meat and cook for 2 or 3 minutes, then put in the rice, the
whites of eggs, a good pinch of nutmeg, and season well with salt and
pepper. Stir over the fire until thoroughly hot, then arrange in a
pyramidal form on a hot dish, garnish with the yolks of eggs and
parsley, and serve.
Time. — Half an hour. Average Cost, is. 2d. Sufficient for 4 or 5
people. Sufficient or a dish. Seasonable at any time.
2833. — CORN MEAL RELISH.
Ingredients. —1 can of Indian corn, 2 eggs, flour, anchovy essence,
cayenne or paprika, frying-fat or oil.
Method. — Drain the corn well, and pound it finely, moistening it
gradually with 2 eggs. Season rather highly with cayenne or paprika,
and add anchovy-essence to taste. Form the preparation into que-
nelles with two eggspoons, roll them lightly in seasoned flour, and fry
in hot fat or oil until nicely browned. Drain well, and serve at once.
Time. — Half an hour. Average Cost, is. 3d. Sufficient for 6 or 7
persons. Seasonable at any time.
2834. — CROQUETTES OF CHICKEN, TURKEY, OR
VEAL. ( Fr . — Croquettes de Volaille, Dinde,
ou Veau.)
Ingredients. — j- a lb. of finely-chopped chicken, turkey or veal, 2 ozs.
of finely-chopped cooked ham or bacon, \ pint of stock, 4 ozs. of coarse
1232
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
grained Florador, i oz. of butter, i finely-chopped shallot or very small
onion, salt and pepper, 2 eggs, breadcrumbs, frying-fat, fried parsley.
Method. — Bring the stock to boiling point, sprinkle in the Florador,
stir and cook until boiling, then simmer for 10 minutes, stirring occa-
sionally. Melt the butter in a stewpan, fry the shallot until lightly
browned, add the chicken and ham, stir and cook for a few minutes.
Now put in the Florador and stock, add 1 egg, season to taste, stir
over the fire for about 5 minutes to allow the eggs to thicken, then spread
on a plate to cool. When ready to use, shape the mixture in the form
of corks or balls, coat them with egg and breadcrumbs, and fry in hot
fat until golden-brown. Drain well, and serve hot garnished with fried
parsley.
Time. — 3 hours. Average Cost, 6d., exclusive of the meat. Sufficient
for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.
2835. — CROQUETTES OF HAM AND RICE.
(Fr.- — Croquettes de Jambon au Riz.)
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of finely-chopped cooked ham, J of a lb. of cooked
rice, 1 oz; of butter, 3 tablespoonfuls of white sauce ( see Sauces),
x finely-chopped shallot, powdered sage, fried parsley, salt and pepper,
1 yolk of egg, 1 whole egg, breadcrumbs, frying-fat.
Method.— Drjr the rice well after cooking it, and chop it finely. Fry
the shallot in the butter until lightly browned, then add the ham, rice,
and a good pinch of sage, season with salt and pepper, and stir over
the fire until hot. Now put in the white sauce and the yolk of egg
mixed together, stir until the preparation thickens, then spread it
on a plate. When cool shape into balls or corks, coat with egg and
breadcrumbs, and fry in hot fat until nicely browned. Drain well,
and serve garnished with fried parsley.
Time. — From 2 to 3 hours. Average Cost, is. 3d. Sufficient for
5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
2836. — CURRIED EGGS. (Fr.— CEufs au Kari.)
Ingredients. — 4 hard-boiled eggs, % of a pint of stock or milk, 1 oz. of
butter, 1 teaspoonful of curry-powder, 1 teaspoonful of flour, 1 finely-
chopped small onion, lemon-juice, salt, 4 ozs. of cooked rice.
Method. — Prepare the rice (see No. 2973), shell the eggs and cut them
in quarters. Fry the onion slightly in the hot butter, sprinkle in the
flour and curry-powder, and cook slowly for 5 or 6 minutes. Add the
stock or milk, season with salt and lemon-juice, and simmer gently
for \ an hour. Then put in the eggs, and let them remain until thor-
oughly heated, and serve. The rice may be arranged as a border, or
served separately.
Time. — 1 hour. Average Cost, 9d. to is. Sufficient for 3 or 4 per-
sons. Seasonable at any time.
BREAKFAST DISHES
12 33
2837. — CURRIED EGGS. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 4 eggs, \ of a pint of milk, 1 teaspoonful of curry-
powder, an oz. of butter, 1 finely-chopped small onion, buttered
toast, lemon-juice, salt.
Method. — Melt the butter in a stewpan, fry the onion for 2 or 3 minutes,
sprinkle in the curry-powder and let it cook for a few minutes in the
butter, stirring meanwhile. Beat the eggs slightly, season them with
salt, add the milk, pour the mixture into the stewpan, and stir until the
eggs begin to set. Have ready some squares of well-buttered toast,
pile the egg preparation lightly on them, sprinkle with lemon-juice,
and serve at once.
Time.— 15 minutes. Average Cost, qd. to is. Sufficient for 4 per-
sons. Seasonable at any time.
2838. CURRIED FISH. (Fr.~ -Poisson au Kari.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of cooked fish, + a pint of milk, 1 oz. of butter,
1 level dessertspoonful of curry-powder, 1 level teaspoonful of flour,
1 finely-chopped small onion, lemon-juice, salt.
Method. — Divide the fish into rather large flakes. Heat the butter
in a stewpan, fry the onion till lightly browned, sprinkle in the currv-
powder and flour, and when smoothly mixed, add the milk and boil
for 5 or 6 minutes. Season to taste, add a few drops of lemon-juice,
and serve plainly or accompanied by boiled rice, as preferred.
Time. — 15 to 20 minutes. Average Cost, 9d. to is. Sufficient for 2
or 3 persons. Seasonable at any time.
2839. — CURRIED LOBSTER. (Fr.— Homard au
Kari.)
Ingredients. — 1 tin of lobster, 2 ozs. of Patna rice, a pint of milk,
1 dessertspoonful of curry-powder, 1 teaspoonful of flour, 1 small onion,
lemon-juice, salt.
Method. — Prepare, boil and dry the rice carefully. Melt the butter
in a stewpan, fry the onion until lightly browned, add the flour and
curry-powder, cook for 2 or 3 minutes, then pour in the milk and boil
for a few minutes, stirring meanwhile. Divide the lobster into about
8 pieces, put them with the rice into the curry-sauce, add lemon-juice
and salt to taste, let the stewpan stand by the side of the fire until the
contents are thoroughly hot, then serve.
Time. — 45 minutes. Average Cost, about is. 3d. Sufficient for 3 or
4 persons. Seasonable at any time.
2840. DARIOLS OF COLD MEAT.
Ingredients. — 6 ozs. of cooked meat, 1 tablespoonful of mashed potato,
1 tablespoonful of white breadcrumbs, £ of a pint of stock or milk,
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
!234
} an oz. of butter, i egg, i finely-chopped shallot or small onion, -1- a
teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, J of a teaspoonful of powdered
mixed herbs, red panurette or browned breadcrumbs, salt and pepper,
nutmeg, ^ of a pint of good gravy or brown sauce ( see Gravies and
Sauces).
Method. — Butter 6 dariol moulds, and coat them thickly with red
panurette or browned breadcrumbs, chop the meat finely. Melt the
butter in a stewpan, fry the shallot or onion until well browned, add the
stock and let it boil, then put in the meat, potato, -white breadcrumbs,
parsley, herbs, egg, a good pinch of nutmeg, and a liberal seasoning
of salt and pepper. Stir the ingredients over the fire until thoroughly
hot, then put the preparation into the moulds and bake from 15 to 20
minutes in a moderate oven, or, if more convenient, they may be
steamed. Serve hot, with the gravy poured round or sent to table
in a separate vessel.
Time. — From 35 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, 8d. to iod. Sufficient
for 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
2841. — DEVILLED GAME. (Fr. — Gibier a la Diable.)
Ingredients. — Cooked game of any kind, oiled butter, brown bread-
crumbs, watercress, lemon-juice, cayenne, salt, paprika pepper.
Method. — Remove all the skin and bone, cut the flesh into neat
slices, and season rather highly with lemon-juice, cayenne, salt, and
paprika pepper. Now coat them well with oiled butter, cover lightly
with browned breadcrumbs, and place them in a quick oven until they
become thoroughly hot. Arrange them in a circle on a lace-edged dish-
paper, fill the centre with watercress seasoned with salt and lemon-
juice, and serve as hot as possible.
Time. — 20 minutes. Average Cost, 9d. to is. Seasonable from
September to February.
2842. — DEVILLED CHICKEN. (iFV.— Poulet a la
Diable.)
Ingredients. — For the devilled butter: if ozs. of butter, 1 teaspoonful
of chutney, \ a teaspoonful of anchovy essence or paste, a teaspoonful
of lemon-juice, a good pinch of cayenne. The remains of a cold roast or
boiled chicken, butter or frying-fat, fried parsley.
Method. — Knead the ingredients for devilled butter together on a
plate, and rub them through a fine sieve. Cut the chicken into neat
joints, remove all skin, and as much bone as possible, fry them in hot
butter or fat until well browned, then sprinkle with salt. Spread each
piece thickly with the prepared butter, garnish with crisply fried
parsley, and serve.
Time. — 15 to 20 minutes. Average Cost, qd., exclusive of the
chicken. Seasonable at any time.
BREAKFAST DISHES
1235
2843. — DRIED HADDOCK AND TOMATOES.
(. Fr . — Merluche fume a la Tomate.)
Ingredients. — 1 small dried haddock, 2 tomatoes sliced, 1 finely-
chopped small onion, \ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 1 oz.
of butter, salt and pepper, 4 ozs. of cooked rice.
Method. — Prepare the rice as for curry (see No. 2973). Cook the
haddock for 10 minutes in the oven in a tin containing a little boiling
water, the steam of which keeps the surface of the fish moist, then
separate it into large flakes. Melt the butter in a stewpan, fry the
onion without browning, put in the fish, sliced tomatoes and parsley,
season to taste, and stir gently over the fire until thoroughly heated.
Serve in a border of rice, or, if preferred, substitute a border of mashed
potato.
Time. — 20 minutes. Average Cost, yd. or 8d. Sufficient for 2 or
3 persons. Seasonable at any time.
2844. — EGG CROQUETTES. ( Fr . — Croquettes aux
CEufs.)
Ingredients. — 4 hard-boiled eggs, 6 coarsely-chopped preserved mush-
rooms, 1 oz. of butter, \ an oz. of flour, \ a gill of milk, 1 raw egg, coarse
grained Florador or breadcrumbs, nutmeg, salt and pepper, frying-
fat, fried parsley.
Method. — Chop the eggs finely or rub them through a wire sieve.
Fry the mushrooms lightly in the hot butter, stir in the flour, add the
milk, and boil well. Now put in the eggs, season to taste, add a pinch
of nutmeg, mix well over the fire, then spread on a plate to cool. When
ready to use shape into balls or corks, coat 'carefully with egg, cover
with Florador or breadcrumbs, and fry in hot fat until golden-brown.
Drain well, and serve garnished with fried parsley.
Time. — From 2 to 3 hours. Average Cost, is. Sufficient for 4 or
5 persons. Seasonable at any time.
2845. — EGGS, BOILED. {See Boiled Eggs, No. 3035,
and Coddled Eggs, No. 3206.)
2846. — EGGS BUTTERED, INDIAN STYLE.
{Fr. — CEufs brouilles a l’lndienne.')
Ingredients. — 3 hard-boiled eggs, 2 raw eggs, \ an oz. of butter, curry-
powder, salt and pepper, browned breadcrumbs.
Method. — Cut the hard-boiled eggs across into rather thick slices,
place them in a well-buttered gratin dish, or china baking-dish, in
which they may be served, and sprinkle over them about -1- a teaspoonful
ot curry-powder and a few grains of cayenne. Beat the raw eggs
1236
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
slightly, season with salt and pepper, and pour them into the dish.
Cover the surface lightly with browned breadcrumbs, put bits of butter
here and there, and bake in a moderate oven for about 10 minutes.
Serve as hot as possible.
Time. — 10 minutes. Average Cost, pd. Sufficient for 4 or 5
persons. Seasonable at any time.
2847. — EGGS, FRICASSEE OF. ( Fr . — Fricassee
d’CEufs.)
Ingredients. — 4 eggs, 1 oz. of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of white sauce
( see Sauces), 1 tablespoonful of cream, \ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped
parsley, \ of a teaspoonful of finely-chopped shallot or onion, small
triangular croutons of fried or toasted bread, nutmeg, salt and pepper.
Method. — Boil the eggs for 15 minutes, let them remain in cold water
until perfectly cold, then cut them across and lengthwise, thus dividing
each egg into 4 pieces. Remove the yolks, rub them through a wire
sieve, and keep hot between 2 plates. Fry the shallot lightly in hot
butter, add the sauce, cream, a pinch of nutmeg, season to taste, and
when hot put in the whites of the eggs. Shake gently over the fire
for a few minutes, then arrange the fricassee on a hot dish, sprinkle
with a little parsley, place the yolk of egg tastefully round the base,
and surround the dish with the fried croutons.
Time. — 35 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, is. to is. 3d. Sufficient
for 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.
2848. — EGGS IN GRAVY. (Fr. — CEufs au Jus.)
Ingredients. — 4 eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of good gravy, walnut ketchup
or some cruet sauce, browned breadcrumbs, salt and pepper.
Method. — Boil the gravy, season it with salt and pepper, add a few
drops of ketchup, Worcester, or whatever may be liked, and put it
into 4 china souffle cases. Stand these in a deep baking tin containing
boiling water to half their depth, and let them remain on the stove
or in the oven for 2 or 3 minutes. Now carefully break an egg into
each case, season with salt and pepper, sprinkle lightly with browned
breadcrumbs, and cook until the eggs are set. Serve them in the
cases.
Time. — 10 to 15 minutes. Average Cost, yd. to gd. Sufficient for 4
persons. Seasonable at any time.
2849. — EGGS POACHED WITH HAM.
(Fr. — CEufs a la Dreux.)
Ingredients.— 4 eggs, 3 ozs. of finely-chopped cooked ham, 4 rounds of
buttei-ed toast, the size of the eggs when cooked, 4 small teaspoonfuls
of cream or milk, butter, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley,
cayenne, salt and pepper.
BREAKFAST DISHES
1237
Method. — Add the parsley and a little pepper to the ham. Coat 4
small deep patty pans thickly with butter, over which sprinkle the ham
preparation, then add an egg, breaking them carefully so as to keep the
yolks whole. Season with salt, pepper and cayenne, add a teaspoonful
of cream, and place on the top a morsel of butter. Put the tins in the
oven, in a saute-pan, surround them to half their depth with boiling
water, and poach until the white is firm. When ready, turn the eggs
carefully out of the tins on to the toast, and serve.
Time. — 15 minutes. Average Cost, is. 2d. to is. 4d. Suflicient for
4 persons. Seasonable at any time.
2850. — EGGS POACHED IN TOMATO SAUCE.
(. Fr . — CEufs poches a la Tomate.)
Ingredients. — 4 eggs, 4 rounds of buttered toast, the size of the eggs
when poached, \ a pint of tomato sauce No. 2S1, salt and pepper.
Method. — When the tomato sauce is quite boiling, break the eggs
carefully into it and poach until the white is set, basting them well
with the sauce during the process. When done, remove the eggs care-
fully with a slice, trim to a good shape, and place them on the toast.
Arrange on a hot dish, season the sauce to taste, pour it over the eggs,
and serve.
Time. — 10 minutes. Average Cost, is. to is. 3d. Sufficient for 4
persons. Seasonable at any time.
2851. — EGGS WITH BLACK BUTTER. (Fr. — CEufs
frits au Beurre Noir.)
Ingredients.*— 4 eggs, 4 rounds of buttered toast, about 3 inches in
diameter, 1 oz. of butter, anchovy paste, 1 dessertspoonful of tarragon
vinegar, a little chopped parsley.
Method. — Heat the butter in a casserole (a fireproof earthenware
vessel), break the eggs gently into it, and fry until set. Have ready
the rounds of toast, spread them with anchovy paste, dish them and
keep them hot. Trim the eggs to a round shape, and place them on
the toast. Replace the casserole on the stove, and cook the butter
until it becomes nut-brown, then add the vinegar, and a good pinch of
parsley, boil rapidly for 2 or 3 minutes, pour over the eggs, and serve.
Time. — From 10 to 15 minutes. Average Cost, is. to is. 3d. Suffi-
cient for 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.
2852. — EGGS WITH HAM. (Fr. — CEufs au Jambon.)
Ingredients. — 6 eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of finely-chopped cooked ham,
1 tablespoonful of browned breadcrumbs, 2 tablespoonfuls of white or
brown sauce or gravy., | an oz, of butter, salt, pepper.
1238
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Butter 6 china souffle cases. Season the ham with pepper,
moisten with the sauce or gravy, add a few drops of mushroom ketchup
or any cruet sauce, and put the preparation into the cases. Now add
the eggs, taking care to keep the yolks whole, and sprinkle on a little
salt and pepper. Cover with a thin layer of breadcrumbs, place small
pieces of butter on the top, bake in a moderate oven until the eggs are
set, and serve them in the cases.
Time. — From 1 5 to 20 minutes. Average Cost, is. to is. 3d. Sufficient
for 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
2853. — EGGS WITH HERBS. ( See Savoury Eggs, No.
2902, and Omelette with Herbs, No. 2822.)
2854. — EGGS WITH PARMESAN. (Fr.— CEufs au
Parmesan.) (See Swiss Eggs.)
2855. — EGGS WITH TONGUE. (Fr.— Langue de
Boeuf aux CEufs.)
Ingredients. — 4 eggs, 4 slices of cooked tongue, 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls
of good gravy, a piece of meat glaze the size of a small walnut, lemon-
juice, salt and pepper.
Method. — Put the slices of tongue into a saute-pan or stewpan, with the
gravy and glaze, make thoroughly hot, and season to taste. Poach the
eggs in boiling water, slightly salted and flavoured with lemon-juice,
and trim them to a round shape. Place the eggs on the slices of tongue,
and trim the edges if necessary, arrange on a hot dish, strain the gravy
over, and serve.
Time. — 15 minutes. Average Cost, gd. to is., exclusive of the
tongue. Sufficient for 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.
2856. — FILLETS OF BLOATERS. (See Bloater Fritters,
No. 2822.)
2857. — FILLETS OF SALMON FRIED IN BATTER.
(A Jewish Recipe.)
Ingredients. — \\ lb. of salmon, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley,
1 a teaspoonful of finely-chopped shallot or onion, -1-; a teaspoonful of
powdered mixed herbs, flour, frying-batter ( see p. 882), frying-oil,
salt and pepper.
Method. — Divide the salmon into pieces about 2 inches square, and
rather more than \ an inch in thickness, and roll them in flour seasoned
with a little salt and pepper. Make the batter, add to it the onion,
parsley, herbs, and a good seasoning of pepper, dip in the pieces of
BREAKFAST DISHES
1239
fish, and, if available, fry them in a deep pan of hot oil; if not, hedt a
good layer of oil in a saute-pan or frying-pan, and cook the fish until
nicely browned on both sides. Serve cold.
Time. — 40 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. to 3s. Sufficient for 4 or 5
persons. Seasonable from February to August.
2858. — FILLETED SMOKED HADDOCK.
(. Fr . — Filets de Merluche fumee.)
Ingredients. — 1 medium sized smoked haddock or \ a large one (pre-
ferably the latter), 2 ozs. of butter, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped
parsley, pepper, lemon-juice.
Method. — Cook the haddock for 10 minutes in the oven in a tin con-
taining a little water, remove the skin and bones, and divide the fish
into fillets of a convenient size for serving. Have the butter ready
melted in a baking-dish, put in the fish and the parsley, season with
pepper, baste well with butter, and cook for 10 minutes in the oven,
repeating the basting at short intervals. Place the fish carefully on a
hot dish, add a little lemon-juice to the sauce, pour it over the fish,
and serve.
Tims. — Halt an hour. Average Cost, iod. to is. Sufficient for
3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.
2859. — FISH FRITTERS. {See Bloater Fritters, No.
2822, also No. 2866.)
2860. — FISH KEDGEREE. {See Kedgeree, No. 2873.)
2861. — FISH PIE. {Fr. — Pate de Poisson.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of cooked cod or other white fish, 4 ozs. of finely-
chopped suet, 2 tablespoonfuls of mashed potato, 2 tablespoonfuls of
white bread crumbs, 2 eggs, \ of a pint of milk (about), browned bread-
crumbs, butter, salt and pepper.
Method. — Free the fish from skin and bone and chop it coarsely,
add the suet, potato, white breadcrumbs and a good seasoning of salt
and pepper. Now stir in the eggs with as much milk as will form the
whole into a stiff batter, and turn the mixture -into a well-buttered
baking-dish suitable for sending to table. Cover the surface lightly
with brown breadcrumbs, and put small bits of butter here and there, and
bake in a moderate oven for about 1 hour, or until the mixture is set.
Serve hot in the dish in which it is cooked, or if prepared overnight
re-heat at the time of serving.
Time. — To bake, about one hour. Average Cost, iod. Sufficient for
5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
1240
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
2862. — FRICASSEE OF FOWL. ( See Chicken
Fricasseed, No. 1164.)
2863. — GATEAU OF COLD MEAT.
Ingredients. — f- of a lb. of cooked meat, \ a lb. of mashed potato,
2 tablespoonfuls of white breadcrumbs, ^ of a pint of stock or milk,
\ an oz. of butter, i egg, i finely-chopped shallot or small onion, i tea-
spoonful of finely-chopped parsley, \ a teaspoonful of powdered mixed
herbs, red panurette or browned breadcrumbs, salt and pepper, -J- a pint
of good gravy or brown sauce ( see Sauces and Gravies).
Method. — Chop the meat finely, butter a plain mould or basin, and
coat it thickly with panurette (grated rusks) or browned breadcrumbs.
Melt the butter in a stewpan, fry the shallot or onion until well-browned,
add the stock, and when boiled put in the potato, meat, white bread-
crumbs, parsley, herbs, eggs, and a good seasoning of salt and pepper.
Stir over the fire until thoroughly hot, then turn into the prepared
mould, and bake in a moderate oven from 30 to 40 minutes, or until
the mixture is firm enough to be turned out of the mould. Serve hot,
with the gravy poured round the dish or handed separately.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 6d., exclusive of the meat and
sauce. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
2864. — GRILLED KIDNEY. (See Recipes Nos. 1012
and 1013.)
2865. — GRILLED MACKEREL. (Fr. — Maquereau
Grille.)
Ingredients. — 1 mackerel. For the marinade (or pickle): 1 \ table-
spoonfuls of salad-oil or oiled butter, i teaspoonful of finely-chopped
parsley, \ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped shallot or onion, salt and
pepper.
Method. — Wipe or wash, clean and dry the fish thoroughly. Score
the back with a sharp knife, pour the marinade over, and let it remain
for 1 hour, turning it 2 or 3 times. Drain well, and grill over a clear
fire from 12 to 15 minutes, according to size. Or, if more convenient,
cover it lightly with brown breadcrumbs, add a few small bits of
butter, and bake in a moderate oven for about 20 minutes. Serve with
parsley, Hollandaise or other suitable sauce.
Time. — From 12 to 20 minutes. Average Cost,6d. to is., according to
size. Sufficient, 1 small mackerel for 2 persons. Seasonable from
February to October.
BREAKFAST DISHES
1241
2866. — HADDOCK AND OYSTER FRITTERS.
( Fr . — Beignets de Merluche fumee.)
Ingredients. — 6 ozs. of finely-chopped smoked haddock, 6 oysters,
1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, \ of a pint of milk, essence of anchovy,
salt and pepper, cayenne, frying-batter ( see p. 882), frying-fat, fried
parsley.
Method. — Pour boiling water over the fish, let it remain for 2 or 3
minutes, then dry well, remove all skin and bone, and chop it finely.
Melt the butter in a stewpan, stir in the flour, add the milk and boil
for 3 or 4 minutes, stirring meanwhile. Season to taste, add a few
drops of anchovy essence, put in the fish, stir over the fire until well
mixed, then spread on a plate to cool. Beard the oysters and preserve
the liquor. When cold, divide the mixture into 6 portions, form into
balls enclosing an oyster in each, dip them in the prepared batter,
and fry them in hot fat until nicely browned. Drain well, garnish with
fried parsley, and serve with a suitable sauce, made from fish stock
obtained from simmering the trimmings of the haddock, to which
should be added the oyster liquor.
Time. — 1$ hours. Average Cost, is. 3d. to is. 6d. Sufficient for
6 fritters. Seasonable from September to April.
2867. — HAM AND EGG TARTLETS.
Ingredients. — 6 eggs, 6 ozs. of finely-chopped cooked ham, 2 ozs. of
white breadcrumbs, \ an oz. of butter, \ a gill of milk, red panurette
or browned breadcrumbs, nutmeg, salt and pepper.
Method. — Mix the ham and breadcrumbs together, add a good pinch
of nutmeg, season well with salt and pepper, and moisten gradually
with milk until a smooth stiff paste is obtained. Butter 6 patty pans,
coat them thickly with panurette or browned breadcrumbs, and line
them with the meat preparation. Break an egg carefully into each one,
sprinkle lightly with panurette or breadcrumbs, and add 2 or 3 very small
bits of butter. Bake in a moderate oven until the eggs are set, remove
carefully from the tins, and serve hot.
Time. — From 10 to 15 minutes. Average Cost, is. to is. 2d. Sufficient
for 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
2868. — HAM RAMAKINS.
Ingredients. — 5 ozs. of finely-chopped lean cooked am, 4 eggs, 1
tablespoonful of cream or milk, \ a teaspoonful of powdered mixed
herbs, made mustard, Krona pepper, salt and pepper.
Method. — Beat 2 whole eggs and 2 yolks of eggs slightly, add the
ham, cream, herbs, a small \ mustardspoonful of mustard, salt and
pepper to taste, and mix well together. Have ready 8 well-buttered
china ramakin cases, fill them, rather more than three-quarters full,
1242
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
with the mixture, and bake until set. Meanwhile beat the remaining
2 whites of egg to a stiff froth, season with a little salt, and pile roughly
above the level of the cases. Sprinkle with Krona pepper, replace in the
oven, and bake until the white of egg is crisp and lightly browned.
Serve hot.
Time. — Half an hour. Average Cost, is. 3d. Sufficient for 5 or 6
persons. Seasonable at any time.
2869. — HERRINGS BROILED WITH MUSTARD
SAUCE. (Fr. — Harengs au naturel, sauce
Moutarde.)
Ingredients. — 4 fresh herrings, 1 oz. of butter, J an oz. of flour, 1 (ea-
spoonful of mustard, \ of a pint of water, of a pint of vinegar, 1 finely-
chopped onion.
Method. — Fry the onion in the butter until lightly browned, put in
the flour and mustard, add the vinegar and water, stir until boiling,
and simmer gently for 15 minutes. Wipe and dry the herrings, remove
the heads, and score them across the back and sides, but avoid cutting
the roe. Sprinkle them with salt and pepper, and grill over or in front
of a clear fire from 10 to 15 minutes. Place on a hot dish, strain the
sauce round, and serve.
Time. — Half an hour. Average Cost, qd. or 6d. Sufficient for 3 or 4
persons. Seasonable from July to February.
2870. — HERRINGS STUFFED WITH SHRIMPS.
(Fr. — Harengs farcis aux Crevettes.)
Ingredients. — 4 fresh herrings, 2 tablespoonfuls of picked shrimps,
1 tablespoonful of white breadcrumbs, essence of anchovy, salt and
pepper, cayenne, 1 egg, brown breadcrumbs, butter, milk.
Method. — Wash and dry the herrings, remove the heads, split them
open, take away the backbone and wipe the insides with soft paper.
Soak the breadcrumbs in a little milk, chop the shrimps finely, mix these
two together, season with salt and pepper, and add a few drops of
anchovy essence. Spread the preparation on the inside of the herrings,
roll them up tightly beginning at the head, and fasten them with
skewers. Brush them over with egg, cover lightly with brown bread-
crumbs, add a few small pieces of butter, and bake gently from 30 to
35 minutes. Serve hot garnished with the roes (if any) grilled.
Time. — From 40 to 50 minutes. Average Cost, yd. or 8d. Sufficient
for 4 persons. Seasonable from July to February.
2871.— HUNTING BREAKFAST (FRENCH GAME PIE
FOR). (See No. 1283.)
BREAKFAST DISHES
1243
Breakfast
2872. — JOMBALAYAH. (An American
Dish.)
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of finely-chopped cooked ham, 4 ozs. of Patna rice,
1 lettuce, cayenne, salt.
Method. — Wash, blanch, boil, and dry the rice as for carry(see No. 2973),
let it become perfectly cold, then stir it into the ham, and season with
cayenne pepper. Wash and dry the lettuce, place a layer of leaves
on a cold dish, pile the rice and ham lightly upon them, garnish with
the heart of the lettuce, and serve.
Time. — 2 hours. Average Cost, 8d. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
2873. — -KEDGEREE, PAPRIKA. (Fr.— Kedgeree au
Paprika.)
Ingredients. — 24 picked small prawns or shrimps, iE ozs. of butter,
J- an oz. of grated cheese, 4 ozs. of rice, 1 hard boiled egg, 1 pint of stock
(about), salt, paprika pepper, nutmeg, watercress.
Method. — Pick, wash, blanch, and drain the rice well, cook il in the
hot butter for a few minutes, then cover with stock, and simmer until
tender, adding more stock when necessary. When nearly done, cook
uncovered to allow some of the moisture to evaporate, and stir fre-
quently to prevent the rice sticking to the bottom of the pan. Mean-
while put aside \ of the prawns for garnish, and chop the remainder
coarsely; pass the yolk of the egg through a wire sieve, and chop the
white finely. To the rice now add sufficient paprika pepper to give
a pale pink tint, a good pinch of nutmeg, and salt to taste, and as soon
as the rice is perfectly tender put in the chopped prawns, white of egg,
and cheese. When thoroughly hot arrange on the dish in a pyramidal
form, garnish with the yolk of egg, prawns and watercress, and serve
hot.
Time. — 2 hours. Average Cost, is. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
2874. — KIDNEYS AND OYSTERS.
Ingredients. — Grilled kidneys (see recipes for cooking Sheep’s Kid-
neys, No. 1012), oysters, salt and pepper, croutes.
Method. — Blanch the oysters in their own liquor, taking care that they
are not overcooked. Place 2 or 3 on the top of each half of grilled
kidney, season lightly with salt and pepper, and serve on the croules.
Time. — To blanch the oysters, 1 minute. Average Cost, kidneys,
3d. to qd. each ; oysters, is. 6d. to 2s. 6d. per dozen. Allow
1 kidney and 4 or 6 oysters to each person. Seasonable from September
to April.
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1244
2875. — KIDNEY TOAST, MADRAS STYLE.
(. Fr .- — Croutes de Rognons a la Madras.)
Ingredients. — 2 sheep’s kidneys, 4 small rounds of buttered toast,
curry-paste, of a teaspoonful of grated lemon rind, 1 egg, bread-
crumbs, butter, salt and pepper.
Method. — Skin the kidneys, cut them in halves lengthwise, run small
skewers through them to keep them flat, and season them with salt,
pepper, and a few grains of cayenne. Mix the lemon rind and a little
salt and pepper with the egg, dip in the kidneys, and roll them in bread-
crumbs. Have ready a little hot butter in a frying-pan, and fry them
lightly and quickly, cooking the cut side first. Trim the toast to a size
slightly larger than half a kidney, spread with a thin layer of curry-
paste, dish the croutes upon them, and serve as hot as possible.
Time. — 20 minutes. Average Cost, iod. to is. Suflieient for 2
persons. Seasonable at any time.
Note. — For other recipes for cooking kidneys, see Chapter XIX, page 589.
2876. — KIPPERED HERRINGS.
Ingredients. — Kippered herrings, butter.
Method. — If the herrings are fresh and moist, simply immerse them
for 1 minute in hot water, but if at all dry or over-smoked, soak them
for about 1 hour, being careful in either case afterwards to wipe them
dry. Rub the inner side with butter, grill quickly over or in front of
a clear fire, spread on a little cold butter, then serve.
Time. — To broil the herrings, from 3 to 4 minutes. Average Cost,
from 3d. to 4d. per pair. Allow 1 to each person. Seasonable, all
the year.
2877.— LOBSTER CROQUETTES. (Fr.— Croquettes
de Homard.)
Ingredients. — 1 medium-sized lobster (or a good brand of tinned
lobster), 1 oz. of butter, 1 tablespoonful of flour, 1 tablespoonful of
cream, 1 whole egg, 1 yolk of egg, salt and pepper, cayenne, panurette
(grated rusks) or breadcrumbs, frying-fat, fried parsley.
Method. — Chop the flesh of the lobster finely. Melt the butter in a
stewpan, stir in the flour, add rather less than a gill of cold water,
and boil well. Now put in the lobster, cream, a pinch of cayenne,
salt and pepper to taste, stir over the fire until thoroughly hot, then add
the yolk of 1 egg. When the mixture begins to thicken spread it on
a plate to cool, and when ready to use shape it in the form of cutlets
or corks. Brush these over well with egg, coat with panurette (this
preparation, which resembles exceedingly fine red breadcrumbs, is sold
BREAKFAST DISHES
1245
in packets), and fry a golden brown in hot fat. Drain well, arrange neatly
on a folded serviet te or dish paper, garnish with fried parsley, and serve.
Time. — 2 hours. Average Cost, 2s. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Sea-
sonable at any time.
2878. — MADRAS FRITTERS. (Fr. — Beignets a la
Madras.)
Ingredients. — 20 rounds of brown bread, inches in diameter, 10
rounds of cooked ham, i\ inches in diameter, chutney, butter, frying-
batter (see p. 882), frying-fat, fried parsley.
Method. — Spread butter on all the rounds of brown bread, and add
to them a layer of chutney. On the top of this place first the rounds
of ham, and then the remainder of the bread and butter, pressing the
whole lightly together. Now dip them into the prepared batter, and
fry them in hot fat until golden-brown. Drain well, and serve gar-
nished with fried parsley.
Time. — 10 minutes. Average Cost, 9d. to iod. Sufficient for 4 or 5
persons. Seasonable at any time.
2879. — MINCED BEEF AND POACHED EGGS.
(. Fr . — Emince de Boeuf aux CEufs poches.)
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of underdone roast beef, 2 eggs, J of a pint of
gravy, an oz. of butter, an oz. of flour, 1 finely-chopped small onion,
a teaspoonful of mushroom ketchup, Worcester sauce, or vinegar,
toasted bread, salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the meat into small dice, melt the butter in a stewpan,
fry the onion until lightly browned, sprinkle in the flour and brown
slightly, then add the stock and boil for 2 or 3 minutes. Now put in
the meat, ketchup, sauce or vinegar, season with salt and pepper,
and let the pan stand where the contents will be kept hot without
boiling for 10 or 15 minutes. Meanwhile poach the eggs and trim
them to a round form; cut the toast into small triangular shapes. When
ready to serve, turn the mince on to a hot dish, place the eggs on the
top, and surround the base with the pieces of toast. Serve hot.
Time. — 20 minutes. Average Cost, 8d. Sufficient for 2 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
2880. — MUTTON AND TOMATOES. (Fr.— Mouton
aux Tomates.)
Ingredients. — a lb. of mutton, 3 tomatoes, 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls
of brown breadcrumbs, \ of a pint of gravy, butter, salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the meat into thin slices; also slice the tomatoes.
1246
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Butter a baking-dish, put a layer of tomatoes at the bottom, cover
lightly with breadcrumbs, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and place
slices of meat on the top. Repeat until all is used, so contriving that
the tomato forms the last layer, and pour in the gravy. Sprinkle the
surface thickly with brown breadcrumbs, place a few bits of butter
on the top, bake in a moderate oven for about \ an hour, and serve.
Time. — About half an hour. Average Cost, 9d. Sufficient for 3 or 4
persons. Seasonable at any time.
2881. — OMELET PLAIN. (Fr. — Omelette Naturel.)
Ingredients. — 4 eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream or milk, 1} ozs. of
butter, salt and pepper.
Method. — Beat the eggs just long enough to mix the yolks and whites
well together, and add the cream and seasoning. Melt the butter
in an omelet pan, and remove tire scum as it rises. Pour in the mix-
ture, stir with a fork until the eggs begin to set, then fold the sides
towards the middle in an oblong form; or draw the mixture towards
the handle of the pan, thus forming a half-moon shape. Turn over
on to a hot dish, and serve quickly.
Time. — 5 minutes. Average Cost, from 8d. to iod. Sufficient for 2
persons. Seasonable at any time.
Note. — Minced cooked ham, tongue, chicken, meat or fish may be mixed
with the eggs, or if raw, fried in the butter before putting in the eggs. Such
additions as sliced tomatoes, kidneys, etc., are folded inside the omelet when
it is partially or completely cooked.
2882. — OMELET WITH HERBS. ( Fr . — Omelette
aux Fines Herbes.)
Ingredients. — 4 eggs, 3 tablespoonfuls of cream or milk, \ a teaspoonful
of finely-chopped parsley, } of a teaspoonful of finely-chopped shallot
or onion, a pinch of mixed herbs, salt and pepper, ij ozs. of 'butter.
Method. — Beat the eggs until light, add the cream or milk, parsley,
shallot and herbs, and season with salt and pepper. Melt the butter
in an omelet pan, pour in the mixture, stir with a fork until the eggs
are on the point of setting, then, with a spoon, draw it quickly towards
the handle of the pan in the shape of a crescent. Turn over on to a hot
dish, and serve as quickly as possible.
Time. — 5 minutes. Average Cost, 8d. to iod. Sufficient for 2
persons. Seasonable at any time.
2883. — PAPRIKA KEDGEREE. (See Kedgeree, Pap-
rika, No. 2873.)
2884. — POLENTA. (See Italian Cookery.)
BREAKFAST DISHES
I247
2885. — POTATO CHIPS. (Fr. — Pommes Chippes.)
Ingredients. — Potatoes, salt, frying-fat.
Method. — Peel the potatoes, slice them thinly, wash them well in
cold water, then drain and dry thoroughly. Fry them in a wire basket
in very hot fat until sufficiently cooked, then remove them and re-heat
the fat. Wait until the blue vapour arises from the fat, then replace
the basket, and fry until the potatoes become crisp and lightly browned.
Drain well, sprinkle with salt, and serve.
Time. — 15 minutes.
2886. — POTATOES SAUTED. (Fr. — Pommes Sautees.)
Ingredients. — 5 or 6 cold boiled potatoes, 1 oz. of butter, -J- a tea-
spoonful of finely-chopped parsley, salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the potatoes into inch slices, and season them with
salt and pepper. Heat the butter in a frying-pan, put in the potatoes,
and fry them until lightly browned on both sides. Then turn on to
a hot dish, sprinkle with parsley, and serve.
Time. — Ten minutes. Average Cost, 2^d. Sufficient for 2 or 3 per-
sons. Seasonable at any time.
2887. — POTATO STRAWS. (Fr.— Pommes Pailles.)
Ingredients. — Potatoes, salt, frying-fat.
Method. — Peel the potatoes, slice them thinly, and cut the slices into
fine strips. Wash them well in cold water, drain in a sieve, and dry
thoroughly in a cloth. Fry them in a wire basket in smoking hot fat
until crisp and golden-brown, then drain well, sprinkle lightly with
salt, and serve.
2888. RAMAKINS OF COLD CURRY.
(Fr. — Ramaquins de Kan Froid.)
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of cooked chicken, veal or rabbit, 1 tomato, 1
finely-chopped medium-sized mild onion, I of a pint of white stock,
J of a pint of milk, J of a pint of cream, 1 oz. of butter, 1 level table-
spoonlul of curry-powder, x teaspoonful of flour, lemon-juice, salt,
Krona pepper.
Method. — Shred the meat finely, and pass the tomato through a hair
sieve. Melt the butter in a stewpan, fry the onion without browning,
then sprinkle in the curry-powder and flour, and cook slowly for about
5 minutes. Now add the stock and milk, season to taste, simmer
gently until reduced to half the original quantity, then put in the
tomato puree, lemon-juice and meat. Let the stewpan stand for
20 minutes where the contents will be kept just below simmering point,
1248
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
then turn into a basin, add more lemon-juice and seasoning if neces-
sary, and put the preparation aside until cold. When ready for use,
whip the cream stiffly, stir it lightly into the curry, and put the mixture
into china or paper ramakin cases. Sprinkle with Krona pepper,
and serve cold.
Time. — Two hours. Average Cost, nd. to is. id. Sufficient for 6 or 8
persons. Seasonable at any time.
2889. — RAMAKINS OF DRIED HADDOCK.
(Fr. — Ramaquins de Merluche fumee.)
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of smoked haddock, 1 oz. of butter, \ an oz. of
flour, J of a pint of milk, 2 eggs, panurette or browned breadcrumbs,
salt and pepper, parsley.
Method. — Pour boiling water over the fish, let it remain for 2 or 3
minutes, then free it from skin and bone, and chop it finely. Melt
the butter in a stewpan, add first the flour and next the milk, and boil
the mixture for 2 or 3 minutes, stirring meanwhile. Now put in the
fish and the yolks of eggs, and season to taste. Whisk the whites to
a stiff froth, stir them lightly in, put the mixture into well-buttered
china or paper ramakin cases, sprinkle the surface with red panurette
or browned breadcrumbs, and add 2 or 3 very small bits of butter.
Bake in a moderately hot oven from 15 to 20 minutes, garnish
with parsley, and serve hot.
Time. — From 35 to 45 minutes. Average Cost, gd. Sufficient for 6
ramakins. Seasonable at any time.
2890. — RICE CROQUETTES. ( See Recipe No. 3110.)
2891. — RISOLETTI. (See Italian Risoletti, No. 2976.)
2892. — ROES ON TOAST. ( See Croutes of Cod’s Roe,
No. 2747, Herring Roes, Croutes of, No. 2761,
and Herring Roe Tit-Bits, No. 2763.)
2893. — SALMON AU GRATIN.
Ingredients. — Cooked salmon, fish sauce or white sauce, brown bread-
crumbs, salt and pepper.
Method. — Separate the fish into large flakes, place them in a fireproof
baking-tin, sprinkle them with salt and pepper, and barely cover with
sauce. Add a thin layer of lightly -browned breadcrumbs, place a
few small pieces of butter on the top, and bake in a moderately hot
oven for a few minutes. Serve in the dish.
BREAKFAST DISHES
1249
Time. — From 8 to 10 minutes. Average Cost, salmon, is. 3d. to 2s. 6d.
per lb. Allow 1 lb. to 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable from February to
October.
2894. — SALMON, FRIED. (A Jewish Recipe.)
(Fr.—‘ Tranches des Saumon Frits.)
Ingredients. — 2 slices of salmon about ij inches thick, 1 egg, flour,
salt and pepper, salad-oil.
Method. — Wash the fish in cold water, dry it well, sprinkle both
sides of each slice with salt, let them remain for \ an hour, then fold
them in a clean dry cloth, and press gently to remove all moisture.
Season a good tablespoonful of flour with salt and pepper, coat the
fish completely, and dip it into beaten egg. While this is being done,
heat some salad-oil in a saute-pan or frying-pan, now put in the fish,
and fry until well browned on both sides. Drain thoroughly and
serve cold.
Time. — One hour. Average Cost, 2s. to 3s. Sufficient for 4 persons.
Seasonable from February to August.
2895. — SALMON FRITTERS. ( See Fillets of Salmon
Fried in Batter, No. 2857.)
2896. — SALMON PIE. (Fr. — Pate de Saumon.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of cold salmon, 2 tablespoonfuls of mashed potatoes,
2 tablespoonfuls of white breadcrumbs, 2 tablespoonfuls of oiled butter,
2 eggs, 4 of a pint of milk (about), panurette or browned breadcrumbs,
butter, salt and pepper.
Method. — Free the fish from skin and bone, and chop it coarsely.
Put it into a basin with the potato, white breadcrumbs, and oiled
butter, season rather highly with salt and pepper, and stir in the eggs
and as much milk as is needed to form the whole into a stiff batter.
Have ready a well greased white china baking dish or a piedish, turn
in the fish preparation, sprinkle the surface with red panurette or
brown breadcrumbs, and add a few very small bits of butter. Bake
in a moderate oven for about 1 hour, or until the mixture is set.
Serve hot, or reheat at the time of serving.
Time. — \\ hours. Average Cost, iod. to is. Sufficient for 5 or 6
persons. Seasonable from February to September.
2897. — SALMON TIMBALES. ( Fr . — Timbales de
Saumon.)
Ingredients. — 6 ozs. of cold salmon, 2 ozs. of breadcrumbs, \ an oz.
of butter (oiled), 1 large egg or 2 small ones, 1 tablespoonful of cream
1250
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
or milk, \ a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, mace, cayenne, parsley, ^ of a
pint of Hollandaise sauce ( see Sauces, No. 304).
Method. — Divide the fish into small flakes, add the butter, cream
and yolk of egg gradually, working the fish meanwhile with a fork.
Season to taste with salt and cayenne, add the lemon- juice and a pinch
of mace, and lastly the stiff-whisked white of egg. Have ready 6
well-buttered timbale or dariol moulds, fill them with the preparation,
place them in a saute-pan, surround to half their depth with boiling
water, and cook on the stove or in the oven for about 30 minutes,
or until the mixture is set. Then unmould, coat with the Hollandaise
sauce, garnish with parsley, and serve.
Time. — One hour. Average Cost, 9d. to nd. Sufficient for 5 or 6
persons. Seasonable, fresh salmon from February to September. From
tinned salmon at any time.
2898. — SARDINES WITH PARMESAN. (Fr.— Sar-
dines au Parmesan.)
Ingredients. — Sardines, 2 ozs. of grated Parmesan cheese, 4 ozs. of
flour, 1 oz. of oiled butter, 1 egg, salt and pepper, cayenne, frying-fat,
Krona pepper.
Method. — Mix the flour, a dessertspoonful of cheese, a saltspoonful
of salt, and a good pinch of cayenne together, add the yolk of the
egg and as much cold water as is needed to form a stiff paste. Knead
well for at least 10 minutes, then put the paste aside in a cool place for
at least 1 hour. Meanwhile remove the skin and tails from the sar-
dines, take out the backbone and replace the two halves, then dip each
sardine in oiled butter and coat lightly with cheese. Roll the paste
out as thinly as possible, and cut it into oblong strips just large enough
to enclose a sardine. Moisten the edges of the paste with white of
egg, place the sardines on one half, fold the other over, and pinch the
edges together. Drop them into hot fat, fry until golden-brown,
then drain well, sprinkle with grated cheese and Krorta pepper, and
serve.
Time. — Two hours. Average Cost, is. 6d. to is. 9d. Sufficient for 5
or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
2899. — SAUSAGES. (See Nos. 1049 and 1142.)
2900. — SAUSAGE CROQUETTES. (Croquettes de
Saucisse.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of pork sausages, \ a lb. of mashed potatoes,
\ an oz. of butter, 1 whole egg, i yolk of egg, I dessertspoonful of cream
or milk, breadcrumbs, frying-fat, salt, cayenne, nutmeg, fried parsley.
BREAKFAST DISHES
1251
Method. — Prick the Sausages, put them into boiling water, cook them
for 10 minutes, and when cold remove the skins and cut them across
in halves. Melt the butter in a stevvpan, put in the mashed potato
and cream, season well with salt and pepper, stir until hot, then add
the yolk of egg and continue the cooking and stirring for about 5 minutes
longer. Let the potato cool, then spread a thin layer over each piece
of sausage; coat these with egg and breadcrumbs, fry in hot fat until
golden-brown, and serve garnished with fried parsley.
Time. — 1^ hours. Average Cost, is. 2d. Sufficient for 4 persons.
Seasonable from September to April.
2901. — SAUTED KIDNEYS. (Fr. — Rognons Sautes.)
Ingredients. — 2 sheep’s or 1 pork kidney, 1 oz. of butter, 1 finely-
chopped shallot or line onion, \ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley,
3 or 4 tablespoonfuls of good brown sauce, salt and pepper.
Method. — Skin the kidneys, cut them across into very thin slices,
and remove the core. Heat the butter in a saute-pan, fry the shallot
until golden-brown, then put in the sliced kidneys and parsley, season
with salt and pepper, and toss them over the fire for 5 or 6 minutes.
Add the brown sauce, mix it well with the kidneys, and when thoroughly
heated, serve.
Time. — 10 minutes. Average Cost, 8d. Sufficient for 2 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
Note. — For other recipes for cooking kidneys, see Chapters XVI. and XXI.
2902. — SAVOURY EGGS.
Ingredients. — 4 eggs, 4 rounds of buttered toast, 2 ozs. of finely-
chopped cooked ham, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, salt
and pepper.
Method. — Butter 4 small china ramakin cases or dariol moulds,
and coat them thickly with ham and parsley, previously mixed together.
Break an egg carefully into each case, and sprinkle them with salt and
pepper. Bake or steam until firm, then turn them on to the prepared
toast, and serve.
Time. — to to 15 minutes. Average Cost, iod. Sufficient for 3 or 4 per-
sons. Seasonable at any time.
2903. — SAVOURY FRITTERS.
Ingredients. — Cold meat of any description, mashed potato, salt and
pepper, frying batter ( see p. 882), frying-fat.
Method. — This dish admits of many variations: thin slices of veal
and ham put together, underdone beef seasoned with ketchup or
Worcester sauce, or mutton with slices of tomato, are generally liked.
1252
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Whatever meat is used, it must be cut into rounds from \\ to if inches
in diameter. Season the potato liberally with salt and pepper, and
stir it over the tire, adding a little milk gradually until it becomes
sufficiently moist to be easily spread. Cover both sides of the pre-
pared rounds with potato, smoothing it with a hot wet knife. Dip
the rounds in batter (or coat them with egg and breadcrumbs *if pre-
ferred), and fry them in hot fat. If available, use a deep pan of fat
for the purpose; if not, by having a fairly deep layer of fat, and exer-
cising a little care, the fritters may be nicely cooked in a frying-pan.
Time. — Half an hour. Average Cost, 6d. to 8d. Allow 2 or 3 for
each person. Seasonable at any time.
2904. — SAVOURY FRITTERS. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of flour, 3 ozs. of butter, 2 whole eggs, 1 yolk of
egg, 1 .1 gills of water, 2 tablespoonfuls of tongue, ham or chicken cut
into small dice, 4 button mushrooms cut into dice, nutmeg, salt and
pepper, parsley, frying-fat.
Method. — Put the water and butter into a small stewpan; when
boiling, stir in the flour and work vigorously over the fire until the
paste leaves the sides of the stewpan. Let it cool slightly, then
beat in the eggs, adding each one separately. Season well with
salt, pepper and nutmeg, stir in the dice or meat and mushrooms,
and spread the preparation on a slab or large dish forming a square
about \ an inch in thickness. When cold, cut into small squares
about \\ inches in diameter, fry the squares in hot fat until crisp and
brown, drain well, and serve garnished with crisply-fried parsley.
If liked, tomato, piquante or other suitable sauce may accompany this
dish.
Time. — Two hours. Average Cost, rod. to is. Sufficient for 6 or 7
persons. Seasonable at any time.
2905. — SAVOURY MACARONI.
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of macaroni, 1 tablespoonful of grated cheese,
1 teaspoonful of anchovy essence, £ of a pint of white sauce ( see
Sauces, No. 222), 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of cream, cayenne, salt and pepper.
Method. — Break the macaroni into short pieces, throw them into
rapidly-boiling salted water, boil for 20 minutes, or until tender, and
drain well. Have the sauce ready, add the macaroni, cheese, cream,
anchovy essence, cayenne, salt and pepper to taste. Mix well, then
turn into china coquilles or ramakin cases, bake in a moderately hot
oven until the surface is well browned, and serve hot.
Time. — 30 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. to 7d. Sufficient for 4
coquilles or 8 ramakins Seasonable at any time,
BREAKFAST DISHES
1253
2906. — SAVOURY MEAT TOAST.
Ingredients. — 2 tablespoonfuls of finely-chopped cold meat, of any
description, 2 tablespoonfuls of gravy or milk, 1 egg, 2 rounds of buttered
toast, \ an oz. of butter, salt and pepper.
Method. — Warm the butter and meat in a stewpan, beat the egg
slightly, add the gravy or milk, season to taste, pour the mixture into
the stewpan, and stir until the egg begins to set. Have the toast
ready, trim the edges, spread on the preparation, and serve. The
above may be varied by the addition of parsley, onion, herbs or ketchup,
Worcester sauce, etc.
Time. -15 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. to 8d. Sufficient for 1 or 2
persons. Seasonable at any time.
2907. — SAVOURY MINCE CROUSTADES.
Ingredients. — 3 pork sausages, 2 slices of streaky bacon, 6 coarsely-
chopped button mushrooms, 3 tablespoonfuls of brown or tomato
sauce ( see Sauces), \ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, milk,
1 egg, breadcrumbs, frying-fat, salt and pepper, fried parsley.
Method. — Place the bacon in a hot frying-pan, and fry until rather
crisp; prick the sausages, and fry thru in the bacon fat. When cool,
cut both into small dice, first removing the skins of the sausages, put
them with the sauce, mushrooms, and parsley into a stewpan, season
to taste, and re-heat. To make the croustades, cut 1 inch slices from
a stale loaf, stamp out 6 round or oval shapes, and scoop out the inside,
forming a hollow to hold the mince. Now dip them in milk, let them
become moistened without being sodden, then coat them with egg and
breadcrumbs, and fry in hot fat until nicely browned. Have the mince
ready, fill the cases, garnish with fried parsley, and serve.
Time. — 1 hour. Average Cost, is. Sufficient for 6 persons. Seasonable
from September to April.
2908. — SCOTCH EGGS. (Fv. — CEufs a l’Ecossaise.)
Ingredients. — 3 hard-boiled eggs, l a lb. of sausages, 1 raw egg, bread-
crumbs, frying-fat, fried parsley, 6 croutes of fried bread.
Method. — Skin the sausages, mix them together, and divide into 3 equal
parts. Shell the eggs, enclose them in the sausage meat, coat with egg
and breadcrumbs, and fry in hot fat, which should be sufficiently deep
to cover them. Drain well, cut them in halves, dish them on the
croutes, and serve garnished with parsley. Tomato sauce frequently
accompanies this dish.
Time. — Half an hour. Average Cost, is. to is. 3d. Sufficient for 3
or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.
1254
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
2909. — SCRAMBLED EGGS. (Fr.— CEufs Brou-
illes.)
Ingredients. — 4 eggs, 2 slices of buttered toast, 1 oz. of butter, 2
tablespoonfuls of cream or milk, salt and pepper, chopped parsley.
Method. — If liked, round oval, or triangular croutes of toasted bread
may be used, but for ordinary purposes each slice of toast may be
trimmed and cut into quarters. Beat the eggs slightly, season them with
salt and pepper, add the cream or milk, and pour the mixture into a
stewpan, in which the butter should have been previously melted.
Stir over the fire until the eggs begin to set, then pile on the toast,
sprinkle with parsley, and serve.
Time. — 10 minutes. Average Cost, iod. to is. id. Sufficient for 4
persons. Seasonable at any time.
2910. — SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH MUSHROOMS.
(Fr. — CEufs Brouilles aux Champignons.)
Ingredients. — 4 eggs, 6 button mushrooms (preferably fresh ones),
1 oz. of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream or milk, 2 slices of buttered
toast, salt and pepper.
Method. — Prepare the mushrooms, cut them into small dice, and fry
lightly in the butter. Meanwhile trim the toast and divide each slice
into 4 squares. Beat the eggs slightly, season them with salt and
pepper, add the cream, and pour the mixture into the stewpan. Stir
over the fire until the eggs begin to set, then pile the preparation on the
toast, and serve as hot as possible.
Time. — 10 minutes. Average Cost, is. to is. 3d. Sufficient for 4
persons. Seasonable at any time.
2911. — SCRAMBLED EGGS AND HAM. (Fr.— CEufs
Brouilles au Jambon.)
Ingredients. — 2 tablespoonfuls of finely-chopped ham, 2 eggs, 1 oz. of
butter, 1 tableSpoonful of milk, salt and pepper, 2 rounds of buttered
toast.
Method. — Melt the butter in a stewpan, put in the ham and let it heat
gradually in the butter. Beat the eggs, add the milk, season to taste,
pour it into the stewpan, and stir until the eggs begin to set. Have
the hot toast ready, pile the preparation lightly upon it, and serve
at once. Tongue or other kinds of meat may be substituted for the
ham.
Time. — 15 minutes. Average Cost, 8d. Sufficient for 2 or 3 persons,
Seasonable at any time.
BREAKFAST DISHES
1255
2912. — SPICED SALMON. (Fr. — Saumon Epice.)
Ingredients. — To 2 or 3 lbs. of cooked salmon, allow 1 pint of the liquor
in which it was boiled, f of a pint of good malt vinegar, 1 oz. of butter.
2 bay-leaves, 12 white peppercorns, 12 allspice, 4 cloves, a blade of
mace, \ a teaspoonful of salt.
Method. — The cold remains of boiled salmon may be utilised for this
dish. As soon as it leaves the table, remove as many bones as possible,
and trim and press it into a compact shape. Meanwhile the marinade
should have been prepared by simmering together for 1 hour the above-
named quantities of liquor, vinegar and spice. When cold, strain it
over the fish, which, if not completely immersed, should be turned once
during the 12 hours that must elapse before the salmon is ready for
use. Mayonnaise sauce or a good salad dressing should accompany this
dish when served.
Time. — i4hours. Average Cost, salmon from is. 3d. to 3s. 6d. per lb.
Allow 1 lb. for 4 persons. Seasonable from February to August.
2913. — SPRATS FRIED IN BATTER. (Fr. — Melettes
frites.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of sprats, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley,
\ of a teaspoonful of finely-chopped shallot or onion, of a teaspoonful
of powdered mixed herbs, £ of a teaspoonful of grated lemon rind,
trying-batter ( see p. 882), salad-oil or clarified fat, parsley, salt and
pepper.
Method. — Wipe or wash the fish, and if liked, cut oft the heads and tails,
but do not open them. Make the batter as directed, add to it the parsley,
shallot, herbs, lemon-rind, and a good seasoning of pepper, dip in the
sprats, taking care to coat them completely, and fry them in hot oil or
fat in a frying-pan until nicely browned. Drain well, and serve gar-
nished with fried parsley.
Time. — Half an hour. Average Cost, yd. or 8d. Sufficient for 3 or 4
persons. Seasonable from November to April.
2914. — STUFFED HERRINGS WITH MUSTARD
BUTTER.
Ingredients. — 4 fresh herrings, i-I- tablespoonfuls of white breadcrumbs,
1 tablespoonful of oiled butter, 1 teaspoonful of anchovy essence or
paste, } a saltspoonful of finely-chopped shallot or onion, salt and
pepper. For the mustard butter: 1 oz. of butter, \ a teaspoonfid of
dry mustard, 1 teaspoonfid of lemon-juice.
Method. —Mix the butter, mustard and lemon-juice on a plate, form
the mixture into a pat, and put it aside in a cool place until firm. Wash
and dry the herrings, remove the heads, split them open and take away
1256
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
the backbone. Put the roes into boiling water, cook gently for lo or
1 5 minutes, then chop them coarsely. Mix with them the bread-
crumbs, butter, anchovy essence, and shallot, season rather highly
with salt and pepper, and stuff the herrings with the preparation.
Close them in their natural form, brush them over with warm butter,
and bake them for about 20 minutes in a moderate oven. Place a pat
of mustard butter on the top of each herring, and serve.
Time. — 40 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. or yd. Sufficient for 3 or
4 persons. Seasonable from July to February.
2915. — TINNED MEAT. (See Chapter XXVIII.)
2916. — TOMATO SAUSAGES.
Ingredients. — \ a pint of tomato puree, \ a pint of well-cooked rice,
\ a pint of breadcrumbs, 1 tablespoonful of finely-chopped onion, 1
teaspoonful of powdered mixed herbs, salt and pepper, sausage skins.
Method. — When using fresh tomatoes, squeeze out the greater part
of the juice, add it to the water in which the rice is cooked, and pass
the tomato pulp through a fine sieve. Mix the rice, breadcrumbs,
tomato puree, onion, herbs, and a good seasoning of salt and pepper,
well together, press the mixture lightly into the skins, and fry in hot
fat or butter until well-browned.
Time. — 40 minutes. Average Cost, is. to is. 6d. Sufficient for 1^ lbs.
Seasonable at any time.
2917. — TRUFFLES, ITALIAN STYLE. (Fr.~ Truffes
a l’ltalienne.)
Ingredients. — Fresh truffles, salad oil, lemon juice, finely-chopped
parsley, finely -chopped shallot, pepper and salt.
Method. — Scrub, wash, peel and slice the truffles, and place them in
a well-buttered gratin dish. Sprinkle them lightly with parsley,
shallot, salt and pepper, moisten them with salad oil, and cover closely.
Bake gently from 25 to 30 minutes, then sprinkle lightly with lemon
juice, and serve in the dish.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, uncertain, usually from 10s. to
1 2s. per lb. Allow \ a lb. for 3 or 6 persons. Seasonable all the year.
2918. — WAFFLES. ( Fr . — Gauffres.)
Ingredients. — | a lb. of flour, 1^- ozs. of butter melted, i|- ozs. of castor
sugar, 2 yolks of eggs, 1 white of egg, £ a pint of cream, \ of a pint of
milk.
BREAKFAST DISHES
1257
Method. — Mix the flour, sugar, butter and eggs together until smooth,
add the cream and milk, and beat well. Heat the waffle-irons, grease
carefully with oiled butter, using a feather for the purpose, and pour
about 2 tablespocnfuls of the preparation into each division. Bake
each side from 2 to 3 minutes, or until lightly browned, and serve
sprinkled with sugar.
Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, is. 3d. to is. 6d. Sufficient
for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable at any time.
2919.— WAFFLES, AMERICAN.
Ingredients. — 1 breakfastcupful of well-boiled rice, 2 eggs, 2 table-
spoonfuls of milk, 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, butter.
Method.— The rice must be very dry and soft. Add to it the flour,
eggs, and milk, and beat well. When nearly cold, bake as directed in
the preceding recipe, spread liberally with butter, and serve hot.
Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. to 7d. Sufficient for
4 or s persons. Seasonable at any time.
2920,— WAFFLES, FRENCH.
Ingredients.— 4\ ozs. of fine flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of castor sugar,
1 tablespoonful of noyeau, a few drops of vanilla essence, a pint of
cream, 4 eggs.
Method. — Mix the flour, sugar, yolks of eggs, noyeau, and vanilla
essence well together, add the cream, and lastly the stiffly-whisked
whites of eggs. Cook as directed ( see Waffles), and serve at once.
Tine. -About 20 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. to 2s. Sufficient for
6 or 7 persons. Seasonable at any time.
THE ART OF CARVING AT
TABLE.
CHAPTER XXXIX
Instructions for Carving Fish, Meat, Poultry and Game.
It is to be feared that carving is an art to a great extent neglected in
this country. This is a curious fact whqn considered in connexion
with the great growth in the cult of the cuisine in England of late
years, yet the conscientious historian of the habits of our times is com-
pelled willy nilly to make the admission. It must be admitted that
the modern fashion of serving d la Russe has to a large extent relieved
the host and hostess from carving at dinner, but the art is still required
at breakfasts, luncheons, and quiet family repasts. The real trouble
is that the Englishman does not take the matter sufficiently seriously
— passes it over as a mere mechanical and considerably boring accom-
paniment to a meal. This constitutes a grave error. To carve well
is a graceful combination of science with art, and your true carver
would carve symmetrically as well as economically even were he put
in the position of dividing a sucking-pig between two. Considering
how important and useful an accomplishment it is, one is astounded
that more people do not make an effort to carve at least passably.
The explanation, perhaps, lies in the fact that carving holds a place
among those arts which every man is convinced he can practise better
and more scientifically than any one else in the world !
How often, too, does one come across the man who grumbles at the
cook when the real fault lies with him who cut the food ! The greater
number of those who dine in a first-rate restaurant and are pleased
to pose as gourmets never in this respect appear willing to learn by ex-
perience or example, but quietly turn to their neighbour, and discuss
the latest news, the weather, and their personal affairs, while the
maitre d’hotel is giving an example of an art the acquisition of which
has cost him the study of a lifetime and contains perhaps the secret
of a great gastronomic success.
Without doubt the first carver of recent times was the late M. Joseph
— proprietor of the Restaurant Marivaux, in Paris, and sometime
director of the Savoy Restaurant, London.
1258
CARVING No. i
i. Lay the crab on its back, insert fingers between the shell and fish, and using the thumbs
as levers, push body away from shell. 2. Break off the claws, remove poisonous “ fingers,”
cut away sides of the 41 back ” shell, and dress the crab in this part, without disturbing the
contents. The “ fingers ’ usually adhere to belly of the crab. When cutting away the sides of
the shell, run the point of the knife along the joint fine. The lower part of the picture shows
one side cut away.
47 1 s s *
THE ART OF CARVING AT TABLE
1259
In his own restaurant every aid was given to obtain effect ; the
orchestra stopped dead, and taking his stand at the head of the room,
the master sliced off joints, one after the other, with vigorous single
cuts, holding the bird on a fork in his left hand. Lieut. -Col. Newnham
Davis, in his Dinners and Diners gives an admirable idea of the
effect produced by Joseph’s carving when he says : “ In an irreverent
moment I was reminded of the Chinese torture of the Ling Chi, in
which the executioner slashes at his victim without hitting a vibil
part in the first fifty cuts, as I watched Joseph calmly, solemnly, with
absolute exactitude, cutting a duck to pieces with a long, thin knife.”
It need hardly be here remarked that the ordinary amateur cannot
be expected to attain the pre-eminence of a Joseph or a Ritz, but all
will be well advised to learn at least how to carve some of the
simpler dishes of everyday appearance in the average British house-
hold.
Truly the case of the man who is entirely ignorant of carving is
parlous. We have all seen him, offering in an emergency to assist his
hostess, and trying by mere physical force to overcome his lack of
skill ; with red face and perspiring forehead he hacks and tugs at the
dish in front of him, and at every attempt the veins stand out more
prominently in his head, while the face of his hostess grows graver
each moment as she begins to realize the appalling fact that the dish
will not go round. Hopelessly at sea, he shamefully mangles and
hacks the joint or bird before him, serving slices ragged and torn, and
accomplishing even this result so slowly that the dish is cold long before
he has finished. And all this time his agony — especially if he be of
a nervous temperament — is terrible to contemplate, and the incon-
venience to those who witness it distressing in the extreme.
Besides this disadvantage of the more material kind, a bad carver
is handicapped in the conversation of the table, in which he plays, or
should play, an important part, for the post of carver has come to
involve considerable social obligations, and implies that its holder
should to some extent preside over the feast. Charles Lamb, in “Cap-
tain Jackson,” has given us an example of the carver who, even though
he had nothing or next to nothing to carve, yet contrived to make a
meal — however slender — pleasant. “ ‘ Let us live while we can,’
methinks I hear the open-hearted creature exclaim ; ‘ While we have,
let us not want ’ ; ‘ Here is plenty left ’ ; ‘ Want for nothing ’ — with
many more such hospitable sayings, the spurs of appetite, and old
concomitants of smoking boards and feast-oppressed chargers. Then
sliding a slender ratio of Single Gloucester upon his wife’s plate, or
the daughter’s, he would convey the remnant rind to his own, with a
merry quirk of ‘ The nearer the bone,’ etc., and declaring that he uni-
versally preferred the outside. . . . None but his guest or guests
dreamed of tasting flesh luxuries at night — the fragments were vere
hospitibus sacra. But of one thing or another there was always enough,
I26o
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
and leavings, only he would sometimes finish the remainder crust, to
show that he wished no savings.” And who will say that he was not a
good carver in the truest, fullest sense of the word ? Would that more
would imitate him !
The advantages of good carving are many, the chiefest being the
ability to derive the best possible flavour from a dish, and at the same
time to dispose of it in an economical manner. Your true artist
cuts in such a way that every piece which he serves is sightly and
palatable and does not contain a disproportionately large amount of
fat. He has, too, a knowledge of the natural construction of various
joints — a knowledge indispensable to all who wish to attain any pro-
ficiency in the art — and ensures that only the choicest cuts will be served.
The gourmet of to-day is too complex in his tastes, mixing many
flavours and so losing the true significance of each, and it is therefore
of the highest importance to avoid giving any one person two differ-
ently flavoured slices of the same joint.
Many people find it very difficult to learn to carve, but as a rule it
is because they do not begin at the beginning. They try to cut up a
bird without any idea of its anatomy, and to cut slices of meat without
knowing how the grain goes or where to find the joints, if any, and
they therefore cannot succeed. In the succeeding pages will be found
full directions for carving fish, meat, poultry and game and accom-
panying illustrations to help out the instructions. A careful study of
the same will prevent any one from making any grave error ; but at
the same time, as practice alone makes perfect, they should take all
the opportunities of carving that come in their way, and when they see
a good carver should watch his or her operations and take a lesson
therefrom.
The sharpness of the knife is, of course, an important consideration,
and it is well to have some idea of how to use a steel, though the opera-
tion is one rather for the workshop than the dinner-table, and should
be performed before the meal by a servant ; still, even servants are
not perfect, so the would-be carver must be prepared for emergencies.
When carving a slice of meat, after the first incision has been made,
the angle at which the knife is held must never be altered, or a jagged
slice will be obtained. When the way to control the knife has been
mastered, the keystone to successful carving has been acquired.
The cut should be direct, sharp, and incisive. A saw-like action
should never enter into the operation.
Generally speaking, the knife should be held firmly, but it cuts best
when applied lightly, and less gravy is squeezed from the meat when
the pressure is slight. By using the point of the knife lightly as a
wedge, and the fork as a lever, even a big turkey or goose may be easily
jointed, provided the carver is aware exactly how the joint is situated
and held together. Every assistance should be given the carver by
providing him with a thin sharp-bladed knife of suitable size, and by
CARVING No. 2
How to split and dress a lobster for table.
48
1 s s *
THE ART OF CARVING AT TABLE
1261
serving whatever is to be carved on a dish large enough to allow the
joint or bird to be turned to the most convenient position for the pur-
pose. The dish should also afford space for carved portions, for an
expert carver will, with a few strokes of the knife disjoint a bird, and
usually prefers to do so before beginning to serve any part of it. Carv-
ing is always more easily and pleasantly performed when the dish con-
tains neither gravy nor garnish.
A steel knife and furk should never be used for fish, because contact
with this metal is apt to spoil its flavour, particularly with certain
choice varieties which owe their excellence almost entirely to a delicate
characteristic flavour that may be easily destroyed or overpowered.
A silver or plated slice and fork should be provided for carving and
serving it. When serving fish be careful not to break the flakes, which
ought to be served as entire as possible, though short grained fish, such
as salmon, should be cut lengthwise.
The carving of loins and necks of either veal, mutton, or lamb must
in some measure be determined by the size of the joints, but if the
butcher has separated the chine bone into narrow divisions, the carver
should have no difficulty in cutting suitable portions. He can then
cut between the bones, and each bone with meat attached should be
of a convenient size for serving.
Some joints, such as the undercut of a sirloin of beef, or the knuckle
end of a leg of mutton are best when eaten hot ; others are equally
good either hot or cold, but sometimes by using only one particular
part the joint may present a better appearance when served cold.
Thus, if the under side of either a shoulder or leg of mutton is cut with-
out encroaching on the upper surface, when the joint is turned over
it will have almost the appearance of an uncut one. Moreover, multi-
plied cut surfaces provide means of escape for the juices of the meat,
and as a natural consequence leave a dry and flavourless cold joint.
Meat should always be cut across the grain, the one exception to the
rule being the saddle of mutton, which is nearly always carved at right
angles to the rib bones, in slices running parallel with the fibres of
grain of the meat. When the joint or bird is stuffed a little of the
forcemeat should be served with each portion, and the same rule
applies to the watercress used to garnish birds and the toast upon which
many small birds are dished. The gravy may be poured over brown
meats, but it should always be put at the side of chicken, veal and
white meats.
Ham and beef should be carved into very thin slices, and mutton and
pork into fairly thick ones. Joints that have to be carved should be
served on dishes without any gravy or dressing.
2921.— TO SHARPEN THE CARVING KNIFE.
Hold the steel in the left hand, which should be on a level with
the elbow, pointing the steel towards the right shoulder, and hold
1262
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
the knife, almost perpendicularly, in the right hand. Place the hilt
of the knife’s edge at the top of the steel, and draw the blade down-
wards the whole length of both steel and knife, first on one side and
then on the other — i.e., so that the point of the knife finishes at the hilt
of the steel. The blade should be almost flat on the steel, with the
back slightly raised but with only the edge touching it.
2922. — COD. (Carving Illustration No. 3, Fig. 2.)
Cut in fairly thick slices through to the centre bone and detach just
above it.
Note. — Of this fish, the parts about the backbone and shoulders are the
firmest, and most esteemed by connoisseurs. The sound, which lines the fish
beneath the backbone, is considered a delicacy, as are also the gelatinous parts
about the head and neck.
2923. — CRAB, TO DRESS. (Carving Illustration No 1.)
Lay the crab upon its back, and insert the fingers between the
shell and the fish. Using the thumbs as levers, push the body away
from the shell (Fig. i). Break off the claws, remove the poisonous
“ fingers,” from the body of the fish, cut away the sides of the
“ back ” shell, and dress the crab in this part, without disturbing
the contents. The ‘‘fingers ” usually adhere to the belly of the crab.
When cutting away the sides of the shell, run the knife along the joint
line, which is easily discernible. To demonstrate this, the picture only
shows one side cut away (Fig. 2).
2924. — EEL AND ALL FLAT FISH.
The thick part of the eel is reckoned the best ; and this holds good
of all flat fish.
2925. — LOBSTER, TO DRESS. (Carving Illustration
No. 2.)
Insert the knife at the centre of the back, and cut through towards
the tail (Fig. 1). Then turn the lobster round and cut through towards
the nose (Fig. 2.) If this end is cut first the shell invariably breaks.
Now remove the “ brains ” (Fig. 3). These are usually of a greenish
colour and are found on either side of the lobster. Crack the claws
with a hammer and arrange the fish on a dish, garnishing with fresh
parsley. The tail of the lobster is the prime part and next to that the
claws.
2926. — MACKEREL. (Carving Illustration No. 4,
Fig. 2.)
First cut along the backbone of the fish. Then insert the fish-knife
at this part and cut through, separating the upper half of the fish which
CARVING No, 3
• 7 1
1
i. Sole. 2. Cod. 3. Plaice.
49
2 SS*
THE ART OF CARVING AT TABLE
12.63
may be divided ; when the fish is of moderate size serve for two help-
ings only. Next remove the backbone, tail and head, and divide the
lower half in the same way.
2927. — SALMON. (Carving Illustration No. 4, Fig. 3.)
First run the knife down the centre of the back and along the
whole length of the fish. Then cut downwards from the backbone to
the middle of the fish, cut through the centre and remove the piece
from the back. Next cut the lower part of the fish in the same manner.
A slice of the thick part should always be accompanied by a smaller
piece of the thin from the belly, where lies the fat of the fish.
Note. — Many persons, in carving salmon, make the mistake of slicing the
thick part of this fish in the direction opposite to that we have shown, and
thus, by the breaking of the flakes, the beauty of its appearance is destroyed.
2928. — SOLE, BOILED OR FRIED. (Carving Illus-
tration No. 3, Fig. 1.)
The usual way of helping this fish is to cut it quite through, bone and
all, distributing it in nice and not too large pieces. The guests should
be asked which part they prefer. The middle part is generally thought
better than either head or tail. The head should be cut off, not laid
on a guest's plate.
In helping filleted soles, one fillet is given to each person.
2929. — PLAICE. (Carving Illustration No. 3, Fig. 3.)
First run the knife down the centre of the fish. Then cut down-
wards (only through to the bone) and remove portions in the manner
shown in the illustration. Next take away the backbone and head
of the fish, and treat the lower half in the same way.
2930. — TURBOT. (Carving Illustration No. 4, Fig. 1.)
First run the fish-slice down the thickest part of the fish, quite through
to the bone, and then cut slices towards the sides of the fish and up-
wards as shown in the engraving. When the carver has removed all
the meat from the upper side of the fish, the backbone should be raised,
and the under side helped as the upper.
Note. — The thick parts of the middle of the back are the best slices in a
turbot ; and the rich gelatinous skin covering the fish, as well as a little of
the thick part of the fins, are dainty morsels, and small portions should be
placed on each plate.
2931. — BRILL AND JOHN DORY.
These are carved in the same manner as a turbot. Of the latter the
head is the best part.
1264
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
2932.— WHITING, HADDOCK, ETC.
Whiting, pike, haddock and similar fish, when of sufficiently large
size, may be carved in slices from each side of the backbone in the same
'anner as salmon ; each fish serving for four or more slices. When
small, they may be cut through, bone and all, and helped in nice
pieces. A small whiting is served whole ; a middle-sized fish in two
pieces.
Beef.
2933. — AITCHBONE OF BEEF. (Carving Illustra-
tion No. 6, Fig. 2.)
A boiled aitchbone of beef is a very simple joint to carve, as will be
seen on reference to the illustration which clearly shows how this should
be treated. Cut nice thin slices.
2934. -BRISKET OF BEEF.
But little description is necessary to show how a boiled brisket of
beef is carved. The point to be observed is that the joint should be
cut evenly and firmly quite across the bones, in slices the whole width
of the joint, so that on its re-appearance at table it should not have a
jagged and untidy look.
2935. — BEEF TONGUE.
Cut nearly through across the tongue at the thick part and then
serve a fairly thick slice. The carving may be continued in this way
towards the point until the best portions of the upper side are served.
The fat which lies about the root of the tongue can be served by
turning it over.
2936. — RIBS OF BEEF. (Carving Illustration No. 5,
Fig. 1.)
This dish resembles the sirloin, except that it has no fillet or under-
cut. The mode of carving is similar to that of the upper cut of the
sirloin, viz., cut in slices off the sides, starting at the thick end and
through to the other, as shown in Carving Illustration No. 5, Fig. 1.
This joint will be the more easily cut if before commencing to carve
it into slices the knife is inserted immediately between the bone and
the meat.
2937. — SIRLOIN OF BEEF. (Carving Illustration No.
5, Figs. 1 and 2.)
This dish is served differently at various tables, some preferring it
to come to table with the fillet, or, as it is usually called, the undercut,
uppermost (see Fig. 2). The reverse way, as shown in the first lllustra-
CARVING No. 4
i. Turbot. 2. Mackerel. 3. Salmon.
2 s s *
5°
1266
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
2942. — LOIN OF VEAL.
As is the case with a loin of mutton, the careful jointing of a loin of
veal is more than half the battle in carving it. The butcher should
be warned to carefully attend to this, for there is nothing more annoying
or irritating to an inexperienced carver than to be obliged to turn his
knife in all directions to find the exact place where it should be inserted
in order to divide the bones. When jointing is properly performed,
there is little difficulty in carrying the knife across and separating each
chop. To each guest should be given a piece of the kidney and kidney-
fat, which lie underneath, and are considered great delicacies.
2943. — CALF’S HEAD. (Carving Illustration No. 6,
Fig. 1.)
A calf’s head is nearly always boned before serving, and is then cut
into slices like any other boned and rolled joint, but the illustration
shows the method of carving when the bones have not been removed.
Cut strips from the ear to the nose ; with each of these should be helped
a piece of what is called the throat sweetbread, cut in semi-circular
form from the throat part. The eye, and the flesh round, are favourite
morsels with many, and should be given to those at the table who are
known to be the greatest connoisseurs. The jawbone being removed,
there will then be found some nice lean ; and the palate, which is
reckoned by some a tit-bit, lies under the head. On a separate dish
there is always served the tongue and brains, and each guest should be
asked to take some of these.
Mutton and Lamb.
2944. — FORE-QUARTER OF LAMB. (Carving Illus-
tration No. 8, Figs. 2 and 3.)
In carving a fore-quarter of lamb, the separation of the shoulder
from the breast is the first point to be attended to ; this is done in the
manner shown in Fig. 2, and then, by raising with a little force the
shoulder, into which the fork should be firmly fixed, it will come away
with just a little more exercise of the knife. In dividing the shoulder
and breast the carver should take care not to cut away too much of
the meat from the latter, as that would rather spoil its appearance
when the shoulder is removed. Unless the whole of the quarter is to
be cut up, the shoulder should be transfered to another dish and put
aside to be served cold. The joint is then ready to be served to the
guests ; cutlets are carved from the ribs in the manner shown in Fig. 3,
and the shoulder is carved in the usual manner. (See illustration No.
7, Figs. 2 and 3). When the shoulder is being used, the carver may
ask those at the table which parts they prefer, ribs, brisket, or a piece
of shoulder, or he may serve a piece of shoulder and a cutlet in each
portion.
CARVING No. 5
I. Sirloin of Beef (Uppercut). 2. Sirloin of Beef (Fillet). 3. Round of Beef.
5'
S S*
THE ART OF CARVING AT TABLE 1267
2945. — LEG OF MUTTON. (Carving Illustration No.
7, Fig. 1.)
This joint is almost invariably carved in the manner shown in the
engraving. The carving of it is not very difficult ; the knife should be
carried sharply, down, and slices taken from either side, as the guests
may desire, some liking the knuckle-end as well done, and others pre-
ferring the more underdone part. The fat should be sought near the
bottom corner of the thick end.
2946. — LOIN OF MUTTON.
There is one point in connection with carving a loin of mutton which
is necessary with all other similar joints ; that is, that it should be
thoroughly well jointed by the butcher. TLis task is frequently im-
perfectly performed ; therefore it is advisable to examine the loin before
cooking it, and carefully joint any part that has been neglected.
The knife should be inserted in the thick side of the joint, and after
feeling a way between the bones, it should be carried sharply through,
separating each chop in the same manner. As there are some people
who prefer the outside cut, while others do not like it, they should
be questioned as to their choice.
2947. — SADDLE OF MUTTON. (Carving Illustration
No. 8, Fig. 1.)
In order of excellence the saddle of mutton may be said to rank first.
It consists of two loins connected by the spinal bone. The method
adopted in carving this joint is, contrary to the general rule of cutting
meat, across the grain ; in this case, the meat is carved across the ribs,
in slices running parallel with the backbone and the fibres or grain of
the meat. The illustration clearly shows what is meant. Each long
slice should be cut across into two or three pieces, according to its
length ; and with each portion is usually served a small piece of fat
cut from the bottom of the ribs where the joint rests on the dish, and
some good gravy. Red currant jelly is served separately.
2948. — SHOULDER OF MUTTON. (Carving Illus-
tration No. 7, Figs. 2 and 3.)
The joint should be raised from the dish and as many slices cut
away as can be taken in the manner shown in Fig. 2; afterwards the
meat lying on either side of the bladebone should be served, by
carving from the knuckle end. The uppermost side of the shoulder
being now finished, the joint should be turned, and slices taken
1268
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
off along its whole length. There are some who prefer the under-
side of the shoulder for its juicy flesh, although the grain of the meat
is not so fine as that on the other side, and this is served in the
rnannei shown in Fig. 3.
Pork.
2949. — SUCKING-PIG.
A sucking - pig seems, at first sight, an elaborate dish, or rather
animal, to carve ; but, by carefully mastering the details of the busi-
ness, every difficulty will vanish ; and if a partial failure be at first
made, yet all embarrassment will quickly disappear on a second trial.
A sucking-pig is usually sent to table split in half and the head separ-
ated from the body. The first point to be attended to is to separate
the shoulder from the carcase, which is done in the same way
that the shoulder of a forequarter of lamb is separated. The
next step is to take off the leg ; and this is done in the same
way. The ribs then stand fairly open to the knife, and two or three
helpings will dispose of these. The other half of the pig is served,
of course, in the same manner. Different parts of the pig are
variously esteemed ; some preferring the flesh of the neck ; others
the ribs, and others, again, the shoulders. The truth is, the whole
of a sucking-pig is delicious, delicate eating ; but, in carving it, the
host should consult the various tastes and fancies of his guests,
keeping the larger joints generally for the gentlemen of the party.
2950. — HAM. (Carving Illustration No. 6, Fig. 3.)
In cutting a ham, the carver must be guided according as he desii'es
to practise economy, or have, at once, fine slices out of the prime part.
Under the first supposition, he will commence at the knuckle end,
and cut off thin slices towards the thick part of the ham, slanting the
knife from the thick part to the knuckle. To reach the choicer portion,
the knife, which must be very sharp and thin, should be carried quite
down to the bone, at the centre of the ham, which is then carved in
the manner shown in the illustration. A ham, either hot or cold, is
sent to table with a paper ruffle round the knuckle.
2951. — LEG OF PORK.
This joint, which is such a favourite one with many people, is easy
to carve. The knife should be carried sharply down to the bone, clean
through the crackling, in exactly the same manner as that described
for leg of mutton. Sage and onion and apple sauce are usually
sent to table with this dish — sometimes the leg of pork is stuffed — ■
and the guests should be asked if they will have either or both. A
frequent plan, and we think a good one, is now pursued of sending
sage and onion to table separately from the joint, as it is not every-
body to whom the flavour of this stuffing is agreeable.
CARVING No. 6
I. Calf’s Head. 2. Aitchbone of Beef. 3. Ham.
3 s s *
52
THE ART OF CARVING AT TABLE
1269
2952. — LOIN OF PORK.
As with a loin of mutton, it is essential a loin of pork should be
properly jointed before cooking, and the crackling must be scored.
These points being attended to, there is no difficulty in carving the
joint, which is divided into neat and even chops.
Note. — The other dishes of pork do not call for any special remarks as to
their carving or helping.
Poultry.
2953. — ROAST DUCK. (Carving Illustration No. 9,
Fig- 3-)
No dishes require so much knowledge and skill in carving as game
and poultry, for it is necessary to be well acquainted with the anatomy
of the bird and animal in order to place the knife at exactly the proper
point. A young duck or duckling is carved in the same manner as a
chicken. First remove the wings, then the breast should be cut
off the bone in one slice or several slices if very plump. The legs
are next removed and divided at the joints ; and unless a contrary
request has been made by the person for whom the portion is
intended, the foot and the bone to which it is attached, should be cut
off before serving. When stuffing has been introduced, the skin should
be cut across and the farce scooped out with a spoon. As to the prime
parts of a duck, “ the wings of a flyer and the legs of a swimmer ” are
generally considered the best portions.
2954. — BOILED FOWL. (Carving Illustration No. 10,
Figs. 2 and 3.)
Though the legs of a boiled fowl are hidden beneath the skin, the
method of carving is not affected, and the following directions may be
applied to birds either roasted or boiled. The fork should be insei'ted
firmly in the breast of the bird, and with a sharp knife a downward
cut made between the thigh and the body, after which an outward
turn of the blade of the knife usually detaches the leg sufficiently to
allow the joint connecting it to the body to be easily severed. With
the fork still inserted in the breast, the next step should be to remove
the wings. In doing this a good carver will contrive by cutting widely,
but not deeply, over the adjacent part of the breast, to give to the
wing the desired shape without depriving the breast of much of its
flesh. When carving a large fowl the breast may be sliced, otherwise
it should be separated from the back by cutting through the rib-bones,
the only difficulty in carving this part being the small hinge-bones
near the neck. The breast should be cut across in half, thus provid-
ing two portions, to which may be added, when a larger helping is
desired, a slice off the thigh. Cut lengthwise into rather thin slices,
1270
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
the legs may be satisfactorily disposed of even when those to be
served consist of persons to whom a whole leg could not be
offered. To conclude the carving, the back should be turned over
with the-cut side to the dish, and if the knife be pressed firmly across the
centre of it, and the neck raised at the same time with the fork, the
back is easily dislocated about the middle. To remove the sockets of the
thigli-joints (the side-bones to which is attached choice morsels of
dark-coloured flesh) the tail part of the back must be stood on end,
and held firmly by means of the fork, while the bones are cut off on
either side. The more highly esteemed parts of a fowl are the breast,
wings and merrythought ; the thigh may be served to a gentleman,
but the drum sticks should be put aside, and used afterwards in some
way that necessitates the flesh being minced.
A fowl when boned and stuffed, is usually cut across in slices.
295 5. — ROAST FOWL, (Carving Illustration No. 10,
Fig. 1.)
Fowls, when roasted, are carved in exactly the same manner as when
boiled, therefore the foregoing directions and illustrations render it
unnecessary to describe the operation again. When the liver and giz-
zard have been trussed and cooked with the fowl, the wing to which the
liver is attached may be regarded as the choice portion of the bird, and
should be offered to the person entitled to the most consideration in this
respect. When the fowl is stuffed, a little forcemeat should be served
with each portion, but when convenient, it is better to hand the gravy
and bread sauce separately.
2956. - ROAST GOOSE.
The breast of a goose is the part most esteemed, therefore when
the bird is larger than is necessary to meet the requirements of one
meal, it frequently happens that the carving is confined solely to the
breast. The carver should, however, consult the tastes of those he
is serving with reference to choice of parts, for the leg is sometimes pre-
ferred. A large number of slices may be cut off the breast, and as the
wing is the part least esteemed, the flesh of the upper part of it may
with advantage be included in the slices cut from the breast. When
onion farce has been employed it is advisable to ascertain if it be
agreeable to the taste of the person for whom the portion of goose is
intended, for so many dislike the farce itself, although they may like
the flavour imparted to the bird by its use. The directions given
for carving a boiled fowl may be applied here, although greater
force will most probably be required in detaching the various parts.
When the goose is stuffed with onion farce it is nearly always accom-
panied by apple sauce and gravy, both of which should, when con-
venient, be handed separately.
CARVING No. 7
i. Leg of Mutton. 2. Shoulder of Mutton. 3. Shoulder of Mutton.
53
4 S S *
THE ART OF CARVING AT TABLE
1271
2957. — ROAST TURKEY. (Carving Illustration No.
9, Figs. 1 and 2.)
A small turkey may be carved in the same manner as a large fowl,
( see directions for carving the same) ; and no bird is more easily carved
than a large turkey, for the breast alone may, when properly carved,
be made to serve a large number of persons. If more meat is required
than the breast provides, the upper part of the wing should be served.
When it is necessary for the legs to be carved, they should be severed
from the body and then cut into slices. The forcemeat in the crop
of the bird should be carved across in thin slices ; and when the body
is stuffed, the apron should be cut across.
A boiled turkey is carved in the same manner as when roasted.
2958. — PIGEON.
A very straightforward plan is adopted in carving a pigeon ; the
knife is carried entirely through the centre of the bird, cutting it into
two precisely equal and similar parts. If it is necessary to make three
pieces of it, a small wing should be cut off with the leg on either side,
thus serving two guests ; and, bv this means, there will be sufficient
meat left on the breast to send to the third guest.
2959. — RABBITS.
In carving a boiled rabbit, the knife should be drawn on each side
of the backbone, the whole length of the rabbit, thus separating the
rabbit into three parts. Now divide the back into two equal parts,
then let the leg be taken off, and next the shoulder. This, in our
opinion, is an easy way to carve a rabbit, although there are other
modes equally practical.
A roast rabbit is rather differently trussed from one that is meant to
be boiled ; but the carving is nearly similar. The back should be
divided into as many pieces as it will give, and the legs and shoulders
can then be disengaged in the same manner as those of the boiled
animal.
Game.
2960. — BLACKCOCK.
The brains of this bird are highly esteemed by many, and for this
reason the head is frequently trussed on one side of the bird, but this is
entirely a matter of choice. The method of carving blackcock is
identical with that for Boiled Fowl. The breast and the thigh are
the only parts esteemed ; the latter may be cut lengthwise into thin
slices, or served whole.
2961. — WILD DUCK.
As game is almost universally served as a dainty, and not as a dish
to stand the assault of an altogether fresh appetite, these dishes are not
1272
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
usually cut up entirely, but only those parts are served of each which
are considered the best flavoured and the primest. Of wild fowl, the
breast alone is considered by epicures worth eating, and slices are cut ;
if necessary, the leg and wing can be taken off by generally following
tne directions described for carving boiled fowl.
2962. — ROAST HARE. (Carving Illustration No. 11,
Figs. 1, 2 and 3.)
Place the hare on the dish with the head at the left hand. Make an
incision, and cut along the spinal bone from about the centre of the
back to the end. Then cut through the side and middle, and remove
the portion shown in Fig 1. The part it is removed from is more
clearly seen in Fig 2. Then cut off the hind leg in the manner shown
in Fig 2, and afterwards the foreleg or wing, as Fig 3. It is the usual
plan not to serve any bone in helping hare ; and thus the flesh should
be sliced from the legs and placed alone on the plate. In large establish-
ments, and where men cooks are kept, it is often the case that the
backbone of the hare, especially in old animals, is taken out, and then
the process of carving is, of course, considerably facilitated. A great
point to be remembered in connection with carving hare is, that plenty
of gravy should accompany each helping ; otherwise this dish, which
is naturally dry, will lose half its flavour, and so become a failure.
Stuffing is also served with it ; and the ears, which should be nicely crisp,
and the brains of the hare, are esteemed as delicacies by many.
2963. — GROUSE.
Grouse may be carved in the way first described in carving partridge.
The backbone of the grouse is highly esteemed by many, and this part
of many game birds is considered to possess the finest flavour.
2964. — PARTRIDGES.
There are several ways of carving this bird. The usual method is
to carry the knife sharply along the top of the breastbone and cut it
quite through, thus dividing the bird into two equal parts. When
smaller portions are desired the bird is sometimes divided into three
parts. The legs and wings may be easily severed from the body in the
manner described for boiled fowl, while the breast, of removed intact,
will provide a third helping. Another easy and expeditious way of
carving birds of this description is to cut them through the bones
lengthwise and across, thus forming four portions. A piece of toast
should accompany each portion of bird ; sometimes the fried bread-
crumbs, bread sauce and gravy are added by the carver, but it is much
better to hand them separately.
I
CARVING No. 8.
I. Saddle of Mutton. 2. Forequarter of Lamb. 3. Forequarter of Lamb.
54
4 s s
THE ART OF CARVING AT TABLE
1273
2965. — PHEASANT.
The choice parts of a pheasant are the breast and wings. The various
members of the bird are severed from the body in exactly the same
manner as those of a roast or boiled fowl, and to avoid repetition the
reader is referred to those directions on pp. 1269-1270.
2966. — SNIPE.
One of these small but delicious birds may be given whole to a gentle-
man ; but in helping a lady, it will be better to cut them quite through
the centre, completely dividing them into equal and like portions, and
put only one half on the plate.
2967. — HAUNCH OF VENISON.
A carver of average ability will have little or no difficulty in cutting
up this joint. An incision being made completely down to the bone, the
gravy will then be able easily to flow ; when slices, not too thick, should
be cut along the haunch, the thick end of the joint having been turned
towards the carver, so that he may have a more complete command
over the joint. Although some epicures are of opinion that some
parts of the haunch are better than others, yet we doubt if there is any
difference between the slices cut above and below the incision that the
carver makes. Each guest should be served with a portion of fat ;
and the most expeditious carver is the best carver, as, like mutton,
venison soon begins to chill, when it loses much of its excellence.
2968. — WOODCOCK.
This bird, like a partridge, may be carved by cutting it exactly into
two like portions, or made into three helpings, as described in carving
partridge. The backbone is considered the tit-bit of a woodcock, and
by many the thigh is also thought a great delicacy. This bird is served
in the manner advised by Brillat Savarin in connection with the
pheasant — viz., on toast which has received its dripping whilst toast-
ing ; and a piece of this toast should invariably accompany each plate.
2969. — LANDRAIL.
Landrail, being trussed like Snipe, with the exception of its being
drawn, may be carved in the same manner.
Ortolans are usually helped whole, but may be divided for ladies.
( See Snipe.)
2970. — PTARMIGAN.
Ptarmigan may be carved in the same way as Grouse and Partridge.
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1274
2971.— QUAILS.
Quails, being trussed and served like woodcock, may be similarly
carved.
2972. — PLOVERS.
Plovers may be carved like quails or woodcock, being trussed and
served in the same way as those birds.
Teal and Widgeon. Both these birds are trussed and served like
Wild Duck, and should be similarly carved.
CARVING No. 9
i. Roast Turkey. 2. Roast Turkey. 3. Roast Duck.
55
5 SS*
FARINACEOUS PREPARA
TIONS
CHAPTER XL
29 73. — CURRIED RICE. ( Fr Riz a l’lndienne.)
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of rice, i-J- ozs. of butter, 1 tomato, 2 finely-
chopped shallots, 1 teaspoonful of curry-powder, 1 tablespoonful of
cream, 1 hard-boiled egg, 1 gill of stock, 1 gill of brown sauce, salt and
pepper, mace, nutmeg, watercress.
Method. — Pick, wash, drain, and dry the rice thoroughly. Fry the
shallots slightly in hot butter, sprinkle in the curry-powder, cook for a
few minutes, then add the rice and cook and shake well over the fire.
Now add the tomatoes skinned and cut into dice, the stock, cream and
sauce, season to taste with salt, pepper, mace and nutmeg, and cook
gently until the rice is tender, adding more stock or sauce, if necessary,
to prevent the rice becoming too dry. When ready pile on a hot dish,
garnish with slices of hard-boiled egg and tufts of watercress, and
serve.
Time. — From 1 to i|- hours. Average Cost, 8d. or qd. Sufficient
for 1 large dish. Seasonable at any time.
2974. — GNOCCHI A LA RUSSE. (Russian Savoury
Batter.)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of milk, \ a gill of white wine, 6 ozs. of butter,
6 ozs. of flour, 4 ozs. of grated Parmesan cheese, 3 eggs, paprika
pepper, white pepper, salt, of a pint of Bechamel sauce ( see Sauces,
No. 177).
Method. — Place the milk and wine in a stewpan; when hot add half
the butter and let it boil up, then put in the flour, and cook and work
vigorously over the fire until the mixture leaves the sides of the stewpan
clear. Allow it to cool slightly, then beat in the eggs one at a time,
season to taste with paprika pepper, white pepper and salt, add half
the cheese, and finally the remainder of the butter. Shape the mixtures
into quenelles {see Veal Quenelles), and poach them for 15 to 20 minutes
in boiling salted water or well-seasoned stock, keeping the saucepan
covered. Drain well, place them on a hot dish, coat them with hot
1275
1276 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Bechamel sauce, to which the remainder of the cheese has been added,
and serve hot.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, is. 6d. to 2s. Sufficient for 5 or
6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
2975. — GNOCCHI AU GRATIN. (Russian Dish).
Ingredients. — a pint of water, 3 ozs. of flour (or 2 ozs. of florador),
2 ozs. of butter, 3 ozs. of grated cheese, 3 ozs. of chopped ham, 2 eggs,
paprika pepper, salt, \ a pint of Bechamel sauce (see Sauces, No. 177).
Method. — Put the water, butter, and a good pinch of salt into a stew-
pan ; when boiling stir in the flour or florador, and work vigorously
over the fire until it leaves the sides of the stewpan clear. Allow it to
cool slightly, then beat in the eggs separately, and add the ham and
2 ozs. of cheese. Shape the mixture into quenelles ( see Veal Quenelles),
poach them for about 10 minutes in salted boiling water, and drain
well. When cool, arrange them in a buttered gratin-dish, or any
baking-dish that may be sent to table, pour over the Bechamel sauce,
sprinkle on the remainder of the cheese, and season well with paprika
pepper. Bake in a hot oven for about 10 minutes, and serve.
Time. — 1 hour. Average Cost, is. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
2976. — ITALIAN RISOLETTI.
Ingredients. — Risotto ( see Recipe No. 29 77), meat mixture, egg,
breadcrumbs, frying-fat.
Method. — Prepare the risotto as directed, and allow it to become cold.
Have ready a meat mixture, prepared according to any of the recipes
for rissoles, croquettes, etc. When cold, cover small portions of it
with risotto, shaping them in the form of a ball or cork. Dip them
in egg, coat with breadcrumbs, and fry them brown in hot fat. Drain
well, pile on a hot dish, and serve garnished with fried parsley.
Time. — Altogether, 3 hours. Average Cost, is., exclusive of the
meat mixture. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
2977. — ITALIAN RISOTTO.
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of Patna rice, 2 ozs. of butter, 2 ozs. of grated
Parmesan cheese, 1 finely-chopped small onion, 1 pint of tomato sauce
(see Sauces, No. 281), £ a teaspoonful of saffron, salt and pepper, nut-
meg.
Method. — Wash, drain, and dry the rice thoroughly in a clean cloth.
Heat the butter in a stewpan, put in the onion, and when lightly browned
add the rice, and shake the pan over the fire for about 10 minutes.
Now sprinkle in the saffron, a good pinch of nutmeg, a level teaspoonful
of salt, and \ a teaspoonful of pepper. Cover with stock, and cook
CARVING No. 10
I. Roast Fowl. 2. Boiled Fowl. 3. Boiled Fowl.
S s s *
56
FARINACEOUS PREPARATIONS
12 77
gently for about i hour, adding meanwhile the tomato sauce and as
much stock as the rice will absorb, the sauce being added when the
rice is about half cooked. Just before serving stir in the cheese.
This savoury rice is frequently used for borders instead of plainly-
boiled rice or mashed potato.
Time. — i J hours. Average Cost, 9d. Sufficient for i large dish.
Seasonable at any time.
2978. — ITALIAN RAVIOLIS.
Ingredients. — J- a lb. of nouille paste ( see No. 2984). For the farce
or stuffing: 4 ozs. of cooked chicken, 1 oz. of cooked ham, \ an oz. of
grated Parmesan cheese, 1 yolk of egg, 1 tablespoonful of thick cream,
\ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, salt and pepper, nutmeg,
^ a pint of tomato sauce ( see Sauces, No. 281 ), 2 ozs. of grated Parmesan
cheese, butter, brown breadcrumbs.
Method. — Pound the ingredients for the farce in a mortar until smooth,
seasoning to taste, then rub through a fine sieve. Make the nouille
paste as directed in recipe No. 2984; when ready for use, roll it out as
thinly as possible, and stamp out some rounds about i\ inches in
diameter. Place a small teaspoonful of the farce in the centre, wet
the edges. Cover each one with another round, and press the edges
well together. Put them into rapidly boiling salted water, boil for
about 20 minutes from the time the water re-boils, then drain well.
Now place in layers in a well-buttered dish, coating each layer with
tomato sauce and a good sprinkling of cheese. Cover the top layer
thickly with sauce, sprinkle well with brown breadcrumbs, and add a
few small pieces of butter. Bake in a quick oven for about 10 minutes,
then serve hot.
Time. — To bake the raviolis, 10 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. Suffi-
cient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
2979. — MACARONI A LA NAPOLITAINE.
Ingredients. — J a lb. of macaroni, 2 ozs. of grated cheese, 1 oz. of butter,
\ of a pint of Bechamel sauce No. 177, \ of a pint of tomat o sauce, 1 table-
spoonful of finely-chopped ham or tongue, \ a shallot finely-chopped,
fried croutons, salt and pepper.
Method. — Break the macaroni into short pieces, put them into rapidly
boiling salted water, and cook until tender. Fry the shallot in the
butter without browning, add the Bechamel and tomato sauces, ham
or tongue, macaroni and cheese, season to taste, and stir over the fire
until thoroughly hot. Serve heaped on a hot dish with the croutons
arranged round the base.
Time. — About \ an hour. Average Cost, is, Sufficient for 4 or 5
persons. Seasonable at any time.
1278
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
2980. — MACARONI AND CHEESE, A L’lTALIENNE.
(Fr. — Macaroni a l’ltalienne.)
Ingredients. — 8 ozs. of grated cheese, 4 ozs. of finely-chopped suet,
2 ozs. of macaroni, 2 eggs, salt and pepper, f a pint of tomato or white
sauce ( see Sauces, No 281).
Method. — Break the macaroni into short lengths, put it into boiling
water, and cook until tender. Mix together the cheese, suet and
macaroni, season to taste, add the eggs and beat well, then turn the
mixture into a buttered mould or basin. Steam for about if- hours,
and serve with the sauce poured round.
Time. — From if to 2 hours. Average Cost, is. to is. 3d. Sufficient
for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.
2981. — MACARONI AND TOMATOES. (Fr.— Macaroni
aux Tomates.)
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of macaroni, tomatoes fresh or tinned, 1 oz. of
butter, 1 oz. of flour, sugar, salt and pepper.
Method. — Break the macaroni into short lengths, put it into rapidly
boiling salted water, and cook until tender. Prepare \ a pint of
tomato puree by passing the tomatoes through a fine sieve. Melt the
butter in a stewpan, add the flour, and cook a few minutes, then put
in the tomato puree, a good pinch of sugar, and season to taste. Let
it boil for a few minutes, then add the macaroni, and when thoroughly
hot turn on to a dish, and serve.
Time. — From 40 to 45 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. Sufficient for 2 or
3 persons. Seasonable at any time.
2982. — MACARONI AU GRATIN.
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of macaroni, 4 ozs. of grated cheese, 1 pint of
white sauce ( see Sauces), butter, brown breadcrumbs, salt and pepper.
Method. — Break the macaroni into pieces about if inches long, put
them into rapidly boiling salted water and boil for about 20 minutes,
or until the macaroni is tender. If not required for immediate use,
cover the macaroni with cold water to prevent the pieces sticking
together. Cover the bottom of a well-buttered baking-dish with white
sauce, sprinkle liberally with cheese, and add a layer of macaroni.
Repeat these processes; cover the last layer of macaroni thickly with
sauce, sprinkle the entire surface lightly with brown breadcrumbs,
and add a few small pieces of butter. Bake in a quick oven for about
20 minutes, then serve in the dish in which it is cooked.
Time. — To bake about 20 minutes. Average Cost, 9d. Sufficient for
6 or 7 persons. Seasonable at any time.
CARVING No 11.
Roast Hare.
57
6 SS *
FARINACEOUS PREPARATIONS
I279
2983- — MACARONI WITH BECHAMEL SAUCE.
{Fr. — Macaroni a la Bechamel.)
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of macaroni, 1 oz. of grated cheese, 2 yolks of
eggs, \ a pint of Bechamel sauce ( see Sauces, No. 177), \ a gill of cream,
salt and pepper.
Method. — Break the macaroni into short pieces, and boil them in
salted water until tender. Make the sauce as directed, add the pre-
pared macaroni, the cheese, and the cream and yolks of eggs, previously
mixed together. Season to taste, stir and cook gently until the eggs
thicken, but do not let the mixture boil. Serve on a hot dish with a
little grated cheese scattered over the top.
Time. — About \ an hour. Average Cost, 9d. or iod. Sufficient for 5
persons. Seasonable at any time.
2984. — NOUILLE OR NOODLE PASTE. Also called
Ribbon Macaroni. {Fr — Pate a Nouilles.)
Ingredients. — .1 lb. of flour, i\ ozs. of butter, 3 yolks of eggs (or 2
small whole eggs), a little milk or water, salt.
Method. — Sieve the flour on to a pastry slab or into a basin, make a
well in the centre and put in the butter, eggs and a good pinch of salt.
Mix thoroughly, and add a little milk or water if necessary, but the
paste should be rather stiff. Knead well for about 15 minutes, or
until the paste is perfectly smooth and elastic, then use as required.
Time. — 20 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. or 7d. Seasonable at any time.
2985. NOUILLES AND EGGS. {Fr. — Oeufs aux,
Nouilles a la Carola.)
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of nouille paste No. 2984, 4 hard-boiled eggs,
\ a lb. of mushrooms, 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of grated cheese, 1 of a
pint of white sauce ( see Sauces), butter.
Method. -Prepare and cook the nouilles as directed in Nouilles au
Gratin, and when well drained toss them over the fire in a little butter.
Prepare the mushrooms, and cook them for 8 or 10 minutes in hot
butter, cut the eggs into slices. Place a layer of nouilles in the bottom
of a well-buttered fireproof dish, season with pepper and a little nut-
meg, and sprinkle liberally with cheese. Cover with slices of egg, add
seasoning, then another layer of nouilles, and finally the mushrooms.
Spread the white sauce over the entire surface, sprinkle well with
cheese, add a few small pieces of butter, and bake in a sharp oven for
10 or 15 minutes. Serve in the dish in which it was baked.
Time. —2 hours. Average Cost, is. qd. to 2s. Sufficient for 6 or 7
persons. Seasonable at any time.
I28o
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
2986. — NOUILLES AU GRATIN.
Ingredients. — For the paste : f a lb. of flour, f an oz. of butter, 3
yolks of eggs. White sauce, grated cheese, butter, breadcrumbs.
Method. — Prepare the paste as directed in Recipe No. 29S4, and let
it stand for at least 1 hour. When ready for use, roll out the paste
as thinly as possible, cut it into long strips, 2 or 3 inches wide, place
them on the top of each other, and cut them into filaments not more
than f of an inch wide. Shake them well in a little flour to separate
and slightly coat them, put them into rapidly boiling salted water,
boil for 10 minutes, drain well, and let them cool. Spread 1 or 2 table-
spoonfuls of white sauce on the bottom of a gratin-dish or baking-dish,
which may be sent to table, cover with a layer of nouilles, sprinkle
thickly with grated cheese, add a few drops of liquid butter, and a little
seasoning. Repeat until the nouilles are used, cover the last layer
thickly with white sauce, sprinkle with breadcrumbs, and add a few
bits of butter. Bake in a quick oven for about 10 minutes, then
serve.
Time. — if hours. Average Cost, iod. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
2987. - RICE, FLORENTINE STYLE. (Fr.—Riz a la
Florentine.)
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of Patna rice, if pints of stock (about), f of a pint
of picked shrimps, if ozs. of butter, 1 tablespoonful of grated Parmesan
cheese, 1 teaspoonful of curry-paste, 1 medium-sized Spanish onion
finely-chopped, salt and pepper, Krona pepper, finely-chopped parsley.
Method. — Pick, wash, blanch and drain the rice, cook and stir
for a few minutes, then cover with stock, add curry-paste, salt, pepper,
and cayenne to taste, and simmer until tender. Add more stock when
necessary, and when the rice is nearly tender let it cook uncovered
to allow some of the moisture to escape : as it becomes dry frequent
stirring will be necessary to prevent the rice sticking to the bottom
of the stewpan. A few minutes before serving add the cheese, shrimps
cut in halves, salt and pepper if necessary, and stir gently until thor-
oughly hot. Serve piled on a hot dish, garnished with Krona pepper
and finely-chopped parsley.
Time. — if hours. Average Cost, is. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
2988. — RICE, POLISH STYLE. (Fr.— Riz a la Polon-
aise.)
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of Patna rice, if pints of stock (about), 2 table-
spoonfuls of finely-shredded cooked ham, 1 tablespoonful of grated
FARINACEOUS PREPARATIONS
1281
Parmesan cheese, i£ ozs. of butter, 4 small mild onions, salt and pepper,
cayenne, finely-chopped parsley.
Method. — Pick, wash, blanch and drain the rice, replace it in the
stewpan, cover with stock, and simmer gently until tender, adding
more stock as that in the pan boils away. When the rice is nearly
ready heat the butter in a stewpan, put in the onions thinly sliced,
fry for a few minutes without browning, then add the ham and the
rice. Season to taste, as soon as the rice is sufficiently dry stir
in the cheese, let it cook for 2 or 3 minutes, then pile the preparation
on a hot dish, sprinkle with parsley, and serve.
Time. — 1 5- hours. Average Cost, iod. to is. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
2989. — RICE, POLONAISE STYLE. (Fr.— Riz a la
Polonaise.)
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of Caroline rice, 2 ozs. of butter, 1 quart of stock,
3 finely-chopped shallots, a small onion stuck with 3 cloves, 5 or 6
small firm tomatoes, 2 tablespoonfuls of grated cheese, salt and pepper.
Method. — Pick the rice and rub it well with a clean cloth, but do not
wash it. Place it in a stewpan with the butter, fry for a few minutes,
then put in the shallots, and when lightly browned add the stock,
onion, and tomatoes sliced; season with salt and pepper, and cook
gently for about 1 hour. A few minutes before serving remove the
onion, add the cheese and more seasoning if necessary. Serve hot.
Time. — hours. Average Cost, iod., exclusive of the stock. Sufficient
for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.
2990. — RICE, QUEEN’S STYLE. (Fr.— Riz a la Reine.)
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of rice, i£ pints of stock (about), 3 tablespoonfuls
of finely-flaked cooked smoked haddock, i-J- tablespoonfuls of finely-
grated cheese, salt and pepper.
Method. — Pick, wash, blanch and drain the rice, replace it in the
stewpan with 1 pint of well-seasoned stock, and cook gently until
tender, adding more stock if necessary to prevent the rice from be-
coming too dry. A few minutes before serving add the cheese and fish,
and season to taste. Pile on a dish, brown in a quick oven, and serve.
Time, -i-]- hours. Average Cost, 6d. to 8d., exclusive of the stock.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.
2991. — RICE AND TOMATOES. ( Fr . — Riz aux To-
mates.)
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of rice, 2 ozs. of butter, 1 oz. of grated cheese,
3 small firm tomatoes, 1 onion stuck with a clove, 2 finely-chopped
shallots, a bouquef-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 1 gill of stock,
T T
1282
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
2 gills of tomato sauce (see Sauces, No. 281), mace, salt and pepper,
cayenne.
Method. — Pick, wash, and blanch the rice in salted water. Drain
well, replace in the stewpan with the onion, bouquet-garni, stock, and
tomato sauce, and cook gently until tender, adding more sauce or stock
if necessary, to prevent the rice becoming too dry. Fry the shallots
in 1 oz. of butter until brown, then add both to the contents of the
stewpan. Remove the onion and bouquet-garni, season to taste with
salt, pepper, cayenne and mace, and stir in the cheese. Meanwhile,
the tomatoes should have been thinly sliced and fried in the remaining
oz. of butter; now pile the rice on a hot dish, garnish with the tomatoes
and serve hot.
Time. — ij hours. Average Cost, 8d. or 9d. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
2992. — RICE BORDER (SOCLE). Used for dishing-up
Cold Entrees, etc.)
Ingredients.— 1 lb. of Carolina rice, about 3 pints of cold water, 1 tea-
spoonful of salt.
Method. — Wash and drain the rice, put it into a stewpan with the
water and salt, and cook slowly until the water is absorbed and the
rice perfectly tender. Then pound it in a mortar until smooth, and
press it into a wetted border-mould. Or, turn the rice whilst warm
and pliable on to a pastry board or large slab, knead well with the hands
until a smooth elastic paste is obtained, then shape it, by means of 2
wooden spoons, into a round or oval block. When the rice is set and
cold the edges must be neatly trimmed with a sharp knife, and,
if liked, they may be cut by the same means into a fluted or other
suitable design. These socles or borders are frequently used to raise
a cold entree above the level of the dish. In all cases they should
be allowed to become cold before being used.
2993.— SAVOURY RICE ROLLS. (Fr.— Croquettes de
Riz.)
Ingredients. — 1 quart of milk, 4 tablespoonfuls of rice, 1 tablespoonful
of finely-chopped onion, 1 bay-leaf, \ a teaspoonful of finely-powdered
mixed herbs, salt and pepper, 1 oz. of butter, 3 eggs, breadcrumbs.
Method. — Pick, wash, and drain the rice, place it in a stewpan with
the onion, bay-leaf, herbs, salt and pepper, and simmer until the milk
is absorbed and the rice tender. When ready, stir in the butter and
2 slightly-beaten eggs, and continue stirring at the side of the fire
for a few minutes, to allow the eggs to become partially cooked, then
turn the rice on to a plate to cool. Before it is quite cold, divide it
FARINACEOUS PREPARATIONS
1283
into small portions, and shape them in the form of long corks. Coat
them carefully with egg and breadcrumbs, fry in hot fat until golden-
brown, and use as required.
Time. — 2\ hours. Average Cost, 9d. Sufficient for 1 large dish.
Seasonable at any time.
2994. — SEMOLINA, OR FLORADOR CROQUETTES.
(Fr. — Croquettes de Semoule ou Florador.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of semolina or florador, 1 oz. of grated Parmesan
cheese, 1 oz. of butter, 1 pint of milk, 3 yolks of eggs, 1 whole egg,
breadcrumbs, frying-fat, pepper and salt.
Method. — Put the milk and butter into a stewpan, when boiling stir
in the semolina, and cook slowly for about 10 minutes. Now add the
3 yolks of eggs and the cheese, continue the cooking and stirring for a
few minutes longer, then spread the preparation on a large dish. When
cold, stamp out into rounds or other shapes, coat them with egg and
breadcrumbs, and fry in hot fat until nicely browned. Drain well,
dish in pyramidal form, and serve garnished with crisply-fried parsley.
Time. — Altogether 2 hours. Average Cost, is. to is. 3d. Sufficient
for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
2995. — SMALL FLORADOR ROLLS. (Fr. — Petits
Cannelons au Florador.)
Ingredients. — } a lb. of nouille paste No. 2984, 4 ozs. of florador,
2 ozs. of grated cheese, 1 oz. of butter, 1 pint of milk, 2 slices of cooked
ham or tongue, 1 egg, breadcrumbs, frying-fat or butter, salt and pepper.
Method. — Put the milk and butter into a stewpan; when boiling
sprinkle in the florador, stir and cook gently for 10 minutes, then add
the cheese, salt and pepper to taste, and spread the mixture on a large
dish. Roll the nouille paste out thinly, and cut it into strips 3 inches
long and about 1 inch wide. Spread the centre of each strip thickly
with the florador preparation, put a narrow strip of ham or tongue in
the centre, wet the edges and roll up lightly, taking care that the paste
completely encloses the mixture. Dip them in egg and roll them in
breadcrumbs, let them lie until the egg hardens, then repeat the egg
and bread-crumbing process, and fry them in hot butter or fat until
golden-brown. Drain well, and serve garnished with fried parsley.
Time. — 1| hours. Average Cost, is. 6d. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
Seasonable at anytime.
2996. — SPANISH RAVIOLIS. (Fr. — Ravioles a l’Es-
pagnole.)
Ingredients. — For the paste: \ a lb. of flour, 1 oz. of butter, 2 yolks
of eggs, 2 lbs. of spinach, 1 oz. of butter, 1 level tablespoonful of flour,
1284
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
2 tablespoonfuls of cream, 1 finely-chopped shallot, salt and pepper,
tomato sauce ( sec Sauces, No. 281), grated cheese.
Method. — Prepare and cook the spinach ( see Vegetables, No. 1606), drain
well, and pass it through a fine sieve. Melt the butter in astewpan, fry the
shallot until lightly browned, add the flour, and cook for a few minutes,
stirring meanwhile, and finally put in the spinach. Season to taste
with salt, pepper and nutmeg, stir over the fire for 5 or 6 minutes,
and then allow the mixture to cool. Prepare the nouille paste (No. 2984),
roll it out as thinly as possible, and stamp out some rounds from 2 to
2\ inches in diameter. Place a little pile of spinach in the centre of
half the rounds, wet the edges, cover each one with another round of
paste, and press the edges well together. Have ready a stewpan of
rapidly boiling salted water, put in the raviolis, and cook for about
1 5 minutes. Drain well, arrange them in a deep dish, sprinkle liberally
with cheese, coat with tomato sauce, and add another sprinkling of
cheese. Bake in a quick oven for a few minutes, and serve hot.
Time. — 2 hours. Average Cost, is. 2d. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
2997.— VERMICELLI, CROQUETTES OF.
(Fr. — Croquettes de Vermicelle au Fromage.)
Ingredients. — 2 ozs. of vermicelli, 2 ozs. of grated cheese, 1 oz. of
butter, f of a pint of milk, \ a teaspoonful of made mustard, cayenne,
pepper and salt, 1 egg, breadcrumbs or vermicelli for coating.
Method. — Break the vermicelli into short pieces; put it into the milk
when boiling, and cook until tender. Add the cheese, butter, mustard,
a few grains of cayenne, and salt and pepper to taste, stir over the
fire until well mixed, then spread to about \ an inch in thickness on a
large dish. When cold, stamp out into circles, ovals or crescents,
dip them in beaten egg, and coat them with breadcrumbs or crushed
vermicelli, and fry in hot fat until lightly browned. Serve on a folded
serviette or dish paper garnished with crisply-fried parsley. Cold
remains of macaroni cheese may also be utilized in this way.
Time. — 14 hours. Average Cost, 8d. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
cows
I. Jersey Cow. 2. Ayrshire Cow.
1 o
h
MILK, BUTTER, CHEESE
AND EGGS.
CHAPTER XLI.
General Observations on Milk, Butter, Cheese, and
Eggs, their Nutritious Properties, and Distinguishing
Features, etc.
MILK.
Milk is obtained only from the Mammalia, and is intended by nature
for the nourishment of their young. All young animals live upon it
for the first months of their existence, and it is the only food that,
taken alone, can support adult life. The fat rises in the form of
cream ; curd is the nitrogenous matter ; and the whey contains
sugar and milk lactose with saline or mineral matter. For the majority
of those who lead healthy, simple lives, milk is an excellent article of
diet ; but the milk of each animal is distinguished by some peculiarities ;
and as that of the cow is by far the most useful to us, the following
remarks will chiefly have reference to that source of supply. When
drawn from the cow, the milk is of a yellowish-white colour, and is
most yellow at the beginning of the period of lactation. Its taste is
agreeable, and rather saccharine. The specific gravity of milk is
somewhat greater than that of water, but varies somewhat in the milk
produced from different individuals. On an everage, the specific
gravity of milk is r032, water being i.
Milk, as it is drawn from the cow, is slightly alkaline, but afterwards
lactic acid is formed, so that it becomes at first neutral, then acid,
and the acidity goes on increasing until it is easily perceptible to the
taste. This acidity is said to assist in the rising of the cream. Most
schemes for preserving milk fresh consist in the addition of some alkali
to correct this acidity. A pinch of bi-carbonate of soda is efficacious,
and with it decidedly sour milk can often be boiled without curdling,
but it gives an unpleasant flavour. Preparations are sold of which the
principal constituent is boracic acid, and it is said that most of the
milk that comes to London is treated in this way.
1285
1286
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
The small cows of the Alderney or Guernsey breed afford the richest
milk. In some parts of the country few other cows are kept ; but they
are not so hardy as many other breeds, they do not yield the large
quantity of milk, and are therefore not great favourites with dairy
farmers. The quality and wholesomeness of the milk depends greatly
on the food and home of the animal. Large numbers of cows are kept
in confined, ill-ventilated buildings, and are fed upon brewers’ grains,
so that the milk is thin and poor, and unfit for food. Milk from an
animal in a state of disease cannot but produce ill health to the con-
sumer. Of late years model dairies, under medical inspection, have
been established in the neighbourhood of London, and have, no doubt,
had a share in improving the health of the Metropolis. Milk may also be
a carrier of infectious disease from the farm where it is produced to the
consumer. The “ milk epidemics ” of fever are instances of this. It
is, therefore, advisable to buy milk only at places where reasonable
precautions for its wholesomeness are known to be taken, and failing
this knowledge — perhaps in all cases — milk should be boiled.
Adulterated Milk. — Milk is more frequently adulterated with water
than with anything else. The best popular test for adulteration by
water is by means of a small instrument called a lactometer. It is
useful, but not infallible, for it is based upon the fact that the specific
gravity of milk is (as has been said) i -032. But cream is lighter than
milk ; and, therefore, it sometimes happens that milk with an excess
of cream will not stand the test so well as skimmed or poor milk. How-
ever, this fault is rare, for it is not an uncommon practice to make
butter of all or part of the cream, and then to sell skimmed milk for
fresh. This is easier now that mechanical separators have in large
dairies almost superseded the old plan of allowing the cream to rise.
By the old plan, the 12 hours that the milk stood was sufficiently long
in the summer for it to turn sour, when it was no longer fit for sale,
and generally went to fatten pigs. Now, while the milk is yet warm
from the cow. it is put into a large reservoir, from which it is conducted
along a series of metal pipes, where it rapidly cools. Then it trickles
into the separator, and is whirled at a very rapid speed, the result
being that the light cream is thrown to the top, while the heavier
milk is drawn off below, completely skimmed and perfectly fresh.
To Keep Milk. — For the preservation of milk, scrupulous cleanliness
is the first necessity. Not only must the pots and pans be scrubbed
and scalded (that every dairy woman understands, at least, in theory),
but the dairy must be clean and well ventilated ; in it no open drain,
no meat or game hanging ; outside it no foul heap of yard refuse or
decaying matter. Nothing is more certain to taint the milk and spoil
the butter than neglect of these precautions.
Boiling milk preserves it ; this is one great advantage of the Devon-
shire method of butter making for small dairies. And we have already
spoken of the addition of soda or borax. Soda may very well be put
MILK, BUTTER, CHEESE AND EGGS 1287
in if the milk is to be used for soups or savouries, as the flavour is then
disguised.
Condensed Milk in tins has a large and increasing sale. Fresh milk
is evaporated in open pans until it loses the greater part of the water.
A certain quantity of cane sugar is then added, and the milk is sealed
down in tins, when it will keep for any length of time. The objection
is the peculiar flavour that milk acquires in boiling, but this is not of
consequence for many cooking purposes. The excessive sweetness is
also objectionable, but unsweetened condensed milk may now be had.
When the full milk is preserved it forms a valuable addition to our
stock of foods, especially for infants and children, for whom a plentiful
supply of good milk cannot be obtained. But, on the whole, condensed
milk is less nutritive than the fresh article, from the fact that it is
chiefly made of skimmed or separated milk, and in consequence is
less rich in fats. A well-known writer says : “ For a baby not fed
by the mother, condensed milk, rightly mixed, is most nourishing.
When condensed milk does not appear to agree with the child, then
inquiry will almost certainly show that the fault lies in the mixing,
and not in the condensed milk. The constitution of one child differs
from that of another, and this fact must keep the careful nurse on
her guard to anticipate and provide for any peculiarities of diet that
may be necessary in consequence. Remembering this, it may be broadly
asserted that a healthy child would do well on condensed milk alone
for the first three months.”
Milk carried to a distance, so as to be much agitated, and cooled before
it is put into pans to settle for cream, never throws up so much, nor
such rich cream, as if the same milk had been put into pans directly
after it was milked.
Milk, considered as an aliment, is of such importance in domestic
economy as to render all the improvements in its production extremely
valuable. To enlarge upon the antiquity of its use is unnecessary ; it
has always been a favourite food in Britain. “ Lacte et carne vivunt,”
says Caesar in his Commentaries ; which, translated into English, is,
“ The inhabitants subsist upon flesh and milk.” The breed of the
cow has undergone great improvement in modern times as regards both
the quantity and the quality of the milk which she affords. Although
milk in its natural state is a fluid, yet, considered as an aliment, it is both
solid and fluid ; for no sooner does it enter the stomach than it is coagu-
lated by the gastric juice, and separated into curds and whey, both of
which are extremely nutritious. The milk of the human subject is much
thinner than cow’s milk ; asses’ milk comes the nearest to human milk
of any other ; goat’s milk is somewhat thicker and richer than cow’s
milk ; ewe’s milk has the appearance of cow’s milk, and affords a
larger quantity of cream ; mare’s milk contains more sugar than that
of the ewe ; camel’s milk is used only in Africa ; buffalo's milk is em-
ployed in India and Egypt. The following comparison of the chief
1283 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
varieties of milk and their constituents will indicate generally their
dietetic value.
Specific
Gravity.
Solids.
Proteids.
Fats.
Carbo-
hydrates.
Salts.
Water.
Human milk
1 -027
12-60
2-29
3-8i
6-20
0-30
87-40
Cow’s milk
10-32
12-83
3-55
3-69
4-88
0-71
87-17
Mare’s milk
1-035
9-21
2-00
I -20
5-65
0-36
90-79
Asses’ milk
1 -026
10-40
2-25
1-65
6-oo
0-50
89-60
Goat's milk
10-32
14-3°
4-30
4-78
4-46
0-75
85-71
Buffalo’s milk
10-32
18-60
61 1
7-45
4-17
0-87
8l -40
Value of Milk. — From no other substance, solid or fluid, can so great
a number of distinct kinds of aliment be prepared as from milk ; some
forming food, others drink ; some of them delicious, and deserving
the name of luxuries ; all of them wholesome, and some medicinal ;
indeed, the variety of foods that seems capable of being produced from
milk appears to be almost endless.
BUTTER.
In England butter has been made from time immemorial, though
the art of making cheese is said not to have been known to the ancient
Britains, and to have been learnt by them from the Romans. The
taste of butter is peculiar, and very unlike any other fatty substance.
It is extremely agreeable when of the best quality, but its flavour
depends much upon the food given to the cows.
Butter, with regard to its dietetic properties, may be regarded as a com-
bination of neutral fats mixed with water and small quantities of
casein and salts. Its average proportion is as follows : Fat, 78 to 94 ;
curd, 1 to 3 ; water, 5 to 14 ; salt, o to 7. Butter becomes sooner
rancid than other fats, owing to the presence of more or less casein,
which, no matter how throughly washed the butter may be, is never
completely removed. When fresh it is a very wholesome article of
diet ; but it should be quite free from rancidity. If slightly salted
when it is fresh, its wholesomeness is not at all impaired ; but should
it begin to turn rancid, salting will not correct its unwholesomeness.
When salt butter is put into casks, the upper part next to the air is
very apt to become rancid, and this rancidity is also liable to affect
the whole cask.
Different Butters. — Fresh butter comes to London from nearly all
the south, east, and south-eastern counties, also from Cheshire, York-
shire, Devonshire and Wales. The Irish butter sold in London is
nearly all salted, but is generally good. Brittany butter is in good
repute all over Europe, America, and even India ; but no country
in the world is more successful in the manufacture of this article.
MILK, BUTTER, CHEESE AND EGGS
1289
than Denmark, this country supplying more butter to the rest of
the world than any other. Equally good is the butter imported
from Holland, the annual import of which into England is enor-
mous. Butter of good quality is also imported from Canada,
America, Australia, Tasmania, New Zealand, and the Argentine.
The Board of Trade’s latest return shows that Canada, New Zealand,
Australia, and Holland, each send about one and a quarter million
pounds, (sterling) worth of butter into the United Kingdom annually.
France sends butter worth about ^2,000,000, and Denmark supplies
us with nearly ^10,000,000 worth.
To make Butter. — There are 3 methods pursued in the manufacture of
butter. In one, the cream is separated from the milk, and in that
state it is converted into butter by churning. In the second method,
the whole milk is subjected to the same process, but it is extremely
wasteful, for the sour butter milk is of no use except as food for pigs,
whereas new skimmed milk has a marketable value, or, enriched with
linseed meal or other oily substances, may be given to calves instead
of whole milk. In Devon and Cornwall, and the West of England
generally, the milk, as soon as it comes from the cow, is heated over a
stove or hot water pipes, which makes the cream rise and thicken into
the well known “ clotted cream,” which is afterwards very readily
and quickly turned into butter. The first method is generally said to
give the richest butter, and the last the largest quantity but opinions differ.
Churning. — A great many different churns are sold, but the secrets
of good butter making are simple and applicable to all kinds.
The first is scrupulous cleanliness. Everything must be scalded
daily with boiling water, rinsed with cold water, and used wet. Every
utensil must be set out in the open air every day.
The second is the right temperature for the cream. A thermometer
is absolutely necessary, and must register 550 to 6o° Fahr. when churn-
ing begins. The desired temperature is usually attained by adding a
little warm water or icy cold water when it is necessary to modify the
temperature. Butter, under these conditions, should come in about
1 5 minutes. It is then washed quite free from butter milk, usually
with cold water, before the butter is removed from the churn. Salt is
generally added in the proportion of from |- to 1 oz. for each 3 lb. of
butter. It should be dried and finely powdered.
To sweeten Rancid Butter. — This is done in several ways : by beating
it in lime water (water in which 1 lb. would be washed should have
about 1 5 drops of chloride added ) ; by scalding with boiling water, or by
washing in new milk. The last named is the safest and best method,
and those who live some distance from the place from whence they
procure their supplies of butter will find these instructions to perfectly
sweeten rancid butter of service to them. The butter must be
thoroughly washed and kneaded first in new milk, where it will lose
the acid which has turned it, then in fresh spring water.
i2go
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Margarine. — Butter and margarine are classed together in the list
of imports published by the Custom House, and until the Act of 1881
butter and margarine were sold together to the general public, both
under the name of the more expensive product. By the provisions of
the Act, passed to prevent the fraudulent sale of artificial butter,
margarine, known also as oleo-margarine, must only be sold under
that name, while butter must be made exclusively of milk or cream.
Margarine is bought by pastrycooks and by some large consumers, as
well as by retail traders, and, if well manufactured and sold at a
reasonable retail price, would be a most valuable addition to the food
of the people, who commonly suffer from a want of fatty food. Mar-
garine is made of oleo-margarine, the oily constituent of the fat of
animals, melted, mixed with a certain proportion of milk and of butter,
and then churned. Afterwards it is washed and worked like butter,
and made up to imitate the kinds most in demand. If carefully pre-
pared and made from pure fats, margarine has a high nutritive value,
but is always less digestible than butter, and it is sometimes carelessly
prepared and insufficiently purified.
CHEESE
Cheese is the Curd of Milk, dried. — This curd, or casein, which is held
in solution in the whey under natural conditions, or so long as the
milk is fresh, has the curious property of coagulating under the influ-
ence of an acid.
Lactic acid, formed in the milk, serves to precipitate the curd in the
ordinary process of souring. Curd is formed in the first stage of di-
gestion by the action of the gastric acid of the stomach. Lemon-juice
is often used to make curd for cheesecakes. In cheese making “ rennet,”
or “ runnet,” is used — a preparation from the stomach of the calf ;
or in some countries, principally in Holland, a weak solution of hydro-
chloric acid is substituted for the rennet.
Method of Making. — Although the broad principles of cheese making
may be said to apply to all varieties of a particular class, the cheese
of each county has certain distinguishing characteristics. That of
Cheshire and Wales has a crumbly texture, and a deep yellow colour,
produced artificially by the addition of anatto. Cheddar cheese,
although similar in shape and size, is less crumbly, and usually of a
pale colour. The methods employed in making these well-known
varieties of cheese are almost identical. They are usually made of
whole milk, unless the milk is very rich in cream, in which case the
night’s milk is skimmed before adding that of the morning. A pro-
perly equipped dairy is provided with a jacketed milk vat, so contrived
that the milk may be surrounded with either hot or cold water. By
these means the temperature of the milk is raised to a suitable heat,
usually about 7 o° Fahr., and the rennet is added. The temperature
is then raised and maintained at a higher level until the curd is firm
MILK, BUTTER, CHEESE AND EGGS
1291
enough to cut. Many-bladed knives greatly facilitate this part of the
work, but some little practice is necessary to enable the worker to
wield one successfully. After cutting, the fine particles of curd are
stirred continuously until the necessary degree of firmness is attained,
and these are then allowed to sink to the bottom of the vat, where they
remain in warm whey until sufficient acidity is developed. When the
right point is reached, the whey is drawn off, the curd is broken up,
covered with warm cloths, and kept thus until ripe enough to be salted
and put into cheese moulds. The cheese remains in the mould under
pressure until sufficiently firm to support its own weight, when it is
trimmed and ironed into a good shape, and then transferred to the
drying room. Here it remains for months, being turned every day,
so that any moisture contained in the cheese may be equally distri-
buted. The whole process is extremely simple, but the success of the
whole depends on the amount of acidity developed during the various
stages of the work. If the curd is allowed to become too acid, a hard
cheese is the result ; if not sufficiently developed, the cheese is too
crumbly, and consequently wasteful.
To choose Cheese. — The taste and smell are the best indications of
quality. There is so much difference of taste that cheese, almost
alone of all foods, is tasted by the customer before purchasing. A
good cheese has rounded edges and sides, and when a piece is rubbed
between the fingers it should melt and feel smooth. The bulging
should not be great, however, as that indicates slight fermentation,
and the cheese should be flat at the top. The best cheese is made of
new milk, and contains, therefore, fat in addition to the curd. Skimmed
milk cheeses are hard and indigestible. In fact, no cheese is easy of
digestion, which probably accounts for its not being a universal food ;
it has almost every other virtue, being cheap, portable, easy to store
and palatable. In every pound of cheese as much solid food is con-*
tained as in a pound of lean meat, and the food is of the flesh-forming
kind, being rich in both proteid and fat.
The principal Varieties of Cheese used in England are the following :
and most of these are shown in the coloured plate. Cheshire Cheese,
famed all over Europe for its rich quality and fine piquant
flavour. It is made of entire new milk from which the cream
has not been taken off. Gloucester Cheese is much milder in its taste
than the Cheshire. There are two kinds of Gloucester cheese, single
and double. Single Gloucester is made of skimmed milk, or of milk
deprived of half the cream ; Double Gloucester is a cheese that pleases
almost every palate ; it is made of the whole milk and cream. Stilton
Cheese is made by adding the cream of one day to the entire milk of
the next ; it was first made at Stilton, in Leicestershire. Gorgonzola
strongly resembles Stilton, and has a large sale. Much is now made
in England to imitate the original. Sage Cheese is so called from the
practice of colouring some curd with bruised sage, marigold-leaves and
1292
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
parsley, and mixing this with some uncoloured curd. With the
Romans, and during the middle ages, this practice was extensively
adopted. Cheddar Cheese is manufactured principally at Pennard, near
Cheddar, and is one of the best and most widely known cheeses we
consume. American Cheddar is considered the best of the cheeses sold
as American. Brickbat Cheese has nothing remarkable except its form.
It is made by turning with rennet a mixture of cream and new milk.
The curd is put into a wooden vessel the shape of a brick, and is then
pressed and dried in the usual way. Dunlop Cheese has a peculiarly
mild and rich taste ; the best is made entirely from new milk. New
Cheese (as it is called in London) is made chiefly in Lincolnshire, and is
either made of all cream, or, like Stilton, by adding the cream of one
day’s milking to the milk that comes immediately from the cow ;
these cheeses are extremely thin, and are compressed gently two or
three times, turned for a few days, and then eaten new with radishes,
salad, etc. Skimmed Milk Cheese is made in most dairy countries, and
is eaten by the peasantry, but is not generally exported. There are
some exceptions, such as the Parmesan Cheese, made in Parma and
Piacenza, the most celebrated of all cheese, and made entirely of
skimmed cow’s milk. The high flavour which it possesses is supposed
to be owing to the rich herbage of the meadows of the Po, where the
cows are pastured. The best Parmesan is kept for 3 or 4 years, and
none is carried to market until it is at least 6 months old. Dutch
Cheese derives its peculiar pungent taste from the practice adopted in
Holland of coagulating the milk with muriatic acid instead of rennet.
Swiss Cheeses, in their several varieties, are all remarkable for their fine
flavour. That from Gruyere, a bailiwick in the canton of Fribourg, is
best known in England. It is flavoured by the dried herb of Melilotos
officinalis in powder. Cheese from milk and potatoes is manufactured
in Thuringia and Saxony. Cream Cheese, although so called, is not
properly cheese, but is merely cream dried sufficiently to be cut with
a knife. All cheeses are imitated in countries and places other than
those from which they take their conventional names. Cheese is also
made of skimmed milk mixed with animal fats or margarine, in the
place of the cream that has been removed for sale. Camembert is a
Brittany cheese, one of the most esteemed of cream cheeses, it being
richer than most ; it is a small, flat cheese of a pale yellow colour, with
a dark rind. Roquefort is a very rich cheese, made in the South of
France, from the milk of sheep and goats. Like Stilton, it has to be
kept a considerable time before it is sufficiently ripe for eating.
Shabzieger is a cheese exceedingly strong both in smell and taste, and
for that reason is considered a delicacy by some and a cheese to be
avoided by others. An excellent but little known English cheese is
one called Wensleydale, which takes its name from the place where made,
a small village in Yorkshire. This cheese has the characteristics of
Stilton, and is rich in quality. Dorsetshire yields a very good cheese
1293
MILK, BUTTER, CHEESE AND EGGS
called Blue Veiny, from its blue-veined appearance. It may be com-
pared to Stilton in flavour, but is less rich, being made entirely from
skimmed milk. There are, in addition to the above, various fancy cheeses.
EGGS.
The Nutritive Properties of Eggs. — Although the qualities of those
belonging to different birds vary somewhat, their nutritive constituents
of fats and salts are identical, varying only in degree. Eggs are
valuable on account of their concentrated nourishment, and their
ready digestibility when raw or slightly cooked. The quality of eggs
depends much upon the breed of the hens, and upon the character of
the food given to them. New-laid eggs are more easily digested than
eggs a day or two old, but the milkiness of an egg cooked almost as
soon as it is laid is generally disliked. Poaching is undoubtedly the
lightest way of dressing eggs ; and this is effected by putting them
for 2 or 3 minutes into boiling water, to which is added a little salt
and a few drops of lemon -juice or vinegar to assist the coagulation
of the albumen. Another light digestible way of cooking an egg is
to place it into a saucepan of boiling water, and let it remain covered
by the side of the fire for io minutes. Immersion for this period will
cook the white of the egg to the consistency of a jelly, but the water
must not be allowed to even simmer.
Uses of Eggs. — The purpose for which eggs are employed are more
numerous and varied than any other article of food ; they form an
impervious coating for frying ; they bind dry mixtures ; they increase
the tenacity of paste and dough, so that they more completely retain
the air ; when beaten to a froth, they are the means of introducing
a good deal of air into a mixture, and thus increase its lightness ; and
to all mixtures they give colour, flavour and lightness.
Sources of Supply. — The Metropolis is supplied with eggs from all
parts of the United Kingdom and Ireland, and they are likewise largely
imported from various parts on the Continent ; as France, Holland,
Belgium, Denmark. Russia, Guernsey and Jersey, and also from Canada.
The last Board of Trade return furnishes the following statistics : —
Eggs Imported into the United Kingdom.
Principal Countries.
Great Hundreds.
Value.
Russia
7,932,906
£2,042,520
Denmark
3,602,32 6
£1,461,459
Germany
3.55T232
£1,191,161
Belgium
2,157.073
£837,120
France
1,698,614
^710,057
Egypt
572,312
£142,192
Canada
317,772
^129,631
Other British Possessions .
318,861
£130,010
Total imported.
20,154,096
£6,644,150
I294
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
The Eggs of different Birds vary much in size and colour. Those of the
ostrich are the largest ; one laid in the menagerie in Paris weighed
2 lbs. 14 ozs., held 1 pint, and was 6 inches deep ; this is about the
usual size of those brought from Africa. Travellers describe ostrich
eggs as of an agreeable taste : they keep longer than hen’s eggs.
Drinking-cups are often made of the shell, which is very strong. The
eggs of the turkey are almost as mild as those of the hen ; the egg of
the goose is large, but well flavoured. Ducks’ eggs have a rich flavour ;
the albumen is slightly transparent, or bluish, when set or coagulated
by boiling, and requires less time to cook than hens’ eggs. Guinea
fowls’ eggs are smaller and more delicate than those of the hen. Eggs
of wild fowl are generally coloured, often spotted ; and the taste
generally partakes somewhat of the flavour of the bird. Those of
land birds that are eaten, as the plover, lapwing, ruff, etc., are in general
much esteemed ; but those of sea-fowl have, more or less, a strong fishy
taste. The eggs of the turtle are very numerous ; they consist of
yolk only, without shell, and are delicious. The average weight of a
hen’s egg in the shell is 2 oz., the shell constituting about 10 per cent,
of its total weight. Eggs keep best in a cold temperature of 36° Fahr.
RECIPES FOR
MILK, BUTTER, CHEESE
AND EGGS
CHAPTER XLII
Milk and Cream
2998. CURDS AND WHEY.
Ingredients. — Milk, rennet.
Method. — Rennet varies so much in strength that no definite rules
for its use can be given. It may be prepared from the lining of the
paunch of a calf, but it is much better to buy it ready prepared. Heat
the milk to about 8o° Fahr., add rennet according to the printed direc-
tions on the bottle, and allow it to stand in a warm place until the
curd separates itself from the whey.
2999. — DEVONSHIRE CREAM.
Method. — The milk should be allowed to stand for 12 hours in winter,
and about half that length of time when the weather is warm. The
milk-pan is then set on a stove, and should remain there until the milk
is quite hot, but it must not boil, otherwise the albumen will coagulate
and form a skin on the surface. The more slowly the milk is heated
the better will be the result. The time required depends upon the
size and shape of the vessel containing the milk, and the amount of
heat applied, but small rings and undulations on the surface of the
milk indicate that it is sufficiently scalded. When the process of
scalding is completed, the vessel should at once be transferred to a
cold place and kept there until the following day, when the cream is
skimmed off into the tins or pots in which it is sold. In Devonshire
nearly all the butter is made from scalded cream, and is usually very
firm.
3000. — DEVONSHIRE JUNKET.
Ingredients. — 1 pint of new milk, 1 dessertspoonful of brandy, 1
dessertspoonful of castor sugar, 1 teaspoonful of prepared rennet,
whipped or clotted cream, ground cinnamon or grated nutmeg.
1295
1296
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Heat the milk to about 8o° Fahr. and stir in, off the hre,
the sugar, brandy, and rennet. Pour this preparation into a deep
dish, in which it will be served • put it aside until set, then cover the
surface with either whipped or clotted cream, sprinkle on a little cinna-
mon or nutmeg, and serve.
Time. — 2 hours. Average Cost, gd. Sufficient for 1 dish.
3001. — MILK AND CREAM, TO KEEP IN HOT
WEATHER.
Method. — In hot weather the milk, as soon as it is received, should
be put into a double saucepan or ajug placed in a saucepan of boiling
water, and heated nearly to boiling point. If the milk is allowed to
boil, the albumen will coagulate and form a skin on the surface, which
will prevent the cream being as completely skimmed off as it would
otherwise be. Cream may be kept for 24 hours, if scalded without
sugar, and by the addition of the latter ingredient it will remain good
for at least 36 hours, provided that it is kept in a cool place. A little
boracic acid also preserves cream and milk by neutralizing the lactic
acid.
3002. — MILK AND CREAM, TO SEPARATE.
Method. — Nearly all large dairies are provided with steam separators,
and smaller ones with separators worked by hand. In ordinary house-
holds, where these mechanical contrivances are not available, the milk
should at once be poured into a large and very shallow basin. In 7
or 8 hours the greater part of the cream will have risen to the surface.
Milk is a perfect food, inasmuch as it contains in right proportions all the food substances necessary
to sustain life, its constituents in ioo parts being : water 86'oo ; proteids, 5'oo i fats, 4'oo ; carbohy-
drates, 4'30 ; salts, 070. It forms a valuable food for the young ; and in sickness life can be sus-
tained on milk alone for long periods. It also forms a valuable addition to the diet of adults in health,
more especially when the indispensable solid part of their food is lacking in nourishing constituents.
Butter
3003. — ANCHOVY BUTTER. (Fr— Beurre d’Anchois.)
Ingredients. — \ of a lb. of butter, 3 anchovies or 1 teaspoonful of
essence, cayenne.
Method. — Wash and bone the anchovies, pound them well in a mortar,
and rub them through a fine hair sieve. Mix the paste thus obtained
smoothly with the butter, add cayenne to taste, and use as required.
When anchovy essence is used, it is simply mixed smoothly with the
butter.
Time.— 20 minutes. Average Cost, qd. to 6d.
CHEESE AND EGGS
i. Cheese Straws. 2. Scotch Eggs. 3. Cheese Tartlets.
t t
60
RECIPES FOR BUTTER
1297
3004. - BUTTER, TO CLARIFY.
Method. — Put the butter into a stewpan. heat it slowly, removing
the scum as it rises, and when quite clear, pour it carefully into clean
and dry jars, leaving the sediment behind.
3005. — CURLED BUTTER.
Method. —Tie a strong cloth by two of the corners to an iron hook
in the wall. Tie the other end of the cloth into a knot, but so loosely
that the index finger may be easily passed through it. Place the
butter in the cloth, twist it lightly, thus forcing the butter through
the knot in fine short rolls or curls. The butter may then be garnished
with parsley and served. Butter for garnishing hams, etc., should be
worked until sufficiently soft, and then used by means of a piece of
stiff paper folded in the form of a cornet. The butter is squeezed in
fine strings through the hole at the bottom of the cornet, and a little
experience soon enables the worker to execute various designs.
3006. — FAIRY OR FEATHERY BUTTER.
Method. — Work the butter until it is sufficiently soft, then place it
in a piece of coarse butter muslin or some loosely woven fabric through
which it can be forced in fine particles, and which must be previously
wetted with cold water. Draw the edges of the muslin together and
press the butter gently through, letting it fall lightly into the dish in
which it will be served, or round any dish it is intended to garnish.
3007. — FRESH BUTTER, TO KEEP AND CHOOSE.
Method. — Fresh butter should be kept in a dark, cool and airy place,
and in as large a mass as possible. Mould as much only as is required, as
the greater the surface exposed the more risk there will be of it becoming
rancid. Butter coolers of stoneware are very much used for keeping
butter in warm weather. They are made with bell-shaped covers, into
the top of which a little cold water should be poured, and in summer
time very frequently changed. Failing one of these useful additions
to the larder, the butter should be kept in a vessel surrounded with
cold water, and covered with muslin kept constantly wet by immersing
its edges in the water which fills the outer vessel.
In choosing fresh butter, see that it has a fresh, pleasant smell ; if
otherwise, it may be accepted as an indication that it has not been
sufficiently washed from the buttermilk, and consequently will not
keep. Butter should be quite dry ; a considerable amount of water
is sometimes left in it, so as not to decrease its weight, and thereby
its keeping qualities are impaired.
1298 household management
3008. — LOBSTER BUTTER. ( Fr . — Beurre de Homard.)
Ingredients. — Lobster coral, butter, cayenne, salt.
Method. — Dry the coral thoroughly, then pound it until smooth,
adding cayenne and salt to taste, and a little butter gradually until
the desired consistency is attained.
Time. — J-hour. Average Cost, 6d. to 9d.
3009. MONTPELIER BUTTER. (Fr. — Beurre Mont-
pelier.)
Ingredients. — Watercress, fresh butter, pepper and salt.
Method. — Choose fresh young watercress, strip the leaves from the
stalks, wash and dry them thoroughly, and chop them finely. Enclose
the chopped cress in the corner of a clean cloth, dip it 2 or 3 times into
cold water, then squeeze as dry as possible. Knead it into the butter,
adding it by degrees until the butter is sufficiently green, then add
salt and pepper to taste, and use as required.
Time. — 20 minutes. Average Cost, qd. to 6d.
3010. — MOULDED BUTTER.
Method. — Butter may be shaped without the aid of moulds, but
round butter moulds or wooden stamps are much used and
are made in a variety of patterns. They should be kept scrupu-
lously clean, and before the butter is pressed in the moulds should
be scalded, and afterwards well soaked in cold water. The butter
at once takes the impress of the mould, and may therefore be
turned out immediately into the butter dish. In hot weather a
little ice should be placed either round or beneath the butter
dish. Dishes with a double bottom are constructed for this purpose.
3011. — SALT BUTTER, TO PRESERVE AND TO
CHOOSE.
Method. — In large families, where salt butter is purchased a tub at
a time, the first thing to be done is to turn the whole of the butter out,
and, with a clean knife, to scrape the outside ; the tub should then
be wiped with a clean cloth, and sprinkled all round with salt, the
butter replaced, and the lid kept on to exclude the air. It is necessary
to take these precautions, since a want of proper cleanliness in the
dairymaid may cause the outside of the butter to become rancid ; and
if the scraping be neglected, the whole mass will soon become spoiled.
To choose salt butter, plunge a knife into it, and if, when drawn out,
the blade smells rancid or unpleasant, the butter is bad. The layers
in tubs will vary greatly, the butter being made at different times ;
RECIPES FOR CHEESE
1299
so to try if the whole tub be good, the cask should be unhooped, and
the butter tried between the staves.
Butter may be kept fresh for 10 or 12 days by a very simple process.
Knead it well in cold water till the butter-milk is extracted ; then
put it in a glazed jar, invert this in another, putting into the latter a
sufficient quantity of water to exclude the air. Renew the water
every day.
Cheese.
3012. — CAYENNE CHEESE FINGERS.
Ingredients. — \ of a lb. of finely-grated cheese, {- of a lb. of butter,
J- of a lb. of flour, a saltspoonful of cayenne, \ a saltspoonful of salt,
water.
Method. — Rub the butter into the flour, add the grated cheese,
cayenne and salt, and mix these ingredients well together. Add
sufficient cold water to mix the whole into a stiff paste, roll it out to
about a \ of an inch in thickness, and cut the paste into fingers 31-
inches long and of an inch wide. Place them on a greased baking-
sheet and bake in a moderately cool oven until crisp and lightly
browned. Serve either hot or cold.
Time. — 45 minutes. Average Cost, yd. Sufficient for 10 persons.
3013. — CHEESE. ( Fr . — Frontage.)
When a whole cheese is bought, and it is necessary to preserve some
portion of it for a considerable time, it will be found a good plan to
keep the cut surfaces of the cheese covered with well-buttered paper.
The rind of the cheese should be left exposed to the air, and it should
be turned frequently and its surface well rubbed first with a dry cloth
and afterwards with melted fat or oil. To keep moist a piece of cheese
that is in daily use, when it comes from the table wrap it at once in a
damp cloth, preferably damped with beer, and keep it in a nearly air-
tight tin or other receptacle.
3014. — CHEESE, METHODS OF SERVING.
There are several methods of serving cheese. In large establish-
ments, where 3 or 4 kinds are in daily use, it is a convenient plan to
hand the butter and biscuits in a dual dish and ask what cheese will
be eaten with them. Each piece of cheese should, of course, be
arranged on a folded napkin, raised at the sides to conceal some of the
lower portion of the cheese. When only one kind of cheese is in use,
and the number to be served is considerable, the easiest and most
economical method is to use dishes with three divisions, apd fill
1300
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
one of them with small, square pieces of cheese, and the other two
respectively with butter and biscuits. In small households it is more
economical to place the cheese on the table in the piece, and cut off
from it what is required.
3015.— CHEESE BISCUITS.
(Fr. — Biscuits de Fromage.)
Ingredients. — Finely-grated cheese, puff paste trimmings, 1 yolk of
egg-
Method. — Roll the paste out thinly, sprinkle it liberally with grated
cheese, and fold in three. Repeat the process twice, then cut it into
rounds with a small cutter, brush them over with beaten yolk of egg,
and bake in a moderately hot oven until crisp.
Time. — 30 minutes. Average Cost, 5d. Sufficient, allow 2 to each
person.
3016. — CHEESE BISCUITS. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 3 oz. of grated cheese, 2 oz. of butter, 3 oz. of flour,
1 yolk of egg, cayenne, pepper and salt.
Method. — Rub the butter into the flour, add the cheese, season to
taste, and mix into a stiff dough with the yolk of egg. Roll out the
dough to rather less than a J of an inch in thickness, stamp it into
rounds or cut it into fingers, and bake in a quick oven until crisp.
The biscuits will keep for a long time in a tin, and can be heated when
wanted.
Time.— J-hour. Average Cost, 5d. Sufficient, allow 2 to each person.
3017. — CHEESE FONDUE. (Fr.— Fondue de Fromage.)
Ingredients. — 3 oz. of finely-grated Parmesan or Cheshire cheese,
1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, 3 whites of eggs, 2 yolks of eggs, £ of a
pint of milk, a pinch of salt, a small pinch of cayenne.
Method. — Melt the butter in a stewpan, mix in the flour, add. the
milk, and stir and simmer gently until smooth and thick. Add the
cheese, salt and cayenne, and when well mixed pour the preparation
on to the well-beaten yolks of eggs, stirring briskly meanwhile. Whip
the whites of eggs to a stiff froth, and stir them lightly into the mixture.
Have ready a well-buttered souffle tin which the mixture should
about half fill, pour it in and bake in a moderately hot oven for about
20 minutes. As the excellence of this dish depends on its lightness
it should be served the moment it is ready. Overcooking will cause
it to be tough, and standing after it is cooked will make it heavy.
Time. — J-hour. Average Cost, 9d. Sufficient for x dish.
RECIPES FOR CHEESE
13.01
3018. — CHEESE FONDUE. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 4 oz. of finely-grated cheese, 1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of
flour, 3 eggs, of a pint of milk, a good pinch of bicarbonate of potash,
mustard, salt and pepper to taste.
Method. — The potash, which is added to assist in the decomposition
of the coagulated casein in the cheese, should be dissolved in the milk.
Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the flour, and when well mixed, pour
in the milk, and stir until it boils. Simmer for 2 or 3 minutes, then
add the cheese, mixed mustard, salt and pepper to taste, and stir until
the cheese is quite melted. Let the mixture cool slightly, then stir
in the well-beaten eggs, pour into a well-buttered fireproof dish, and
bake in a moderately hot oven until set. Serve as quickly as possible.
Time. — J-hour. Average Cost, 8d. to rod. Sufficient for 1 dish.
3019. — CHEESE FONDUE. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 1 teacupful of grated cheese, \ a teacupful of fine
breadcrumbs, 1 oz. of butter, 3 whites of eggs, 2 yolks of eggs, £ of a
pint of milk, salt and pepper, cayenne to taste.
Method. — Heat the milk nearly to boiling point, add the butter, stir
until melted, then pour the milk over the breadcrumbs. Cover, and
let them stand for 10 minutes, then stir in the cheese, yolks of eggs,
salt, cayenne and pepper to taste. Whip the whites of eggs to a stiff
froth, stir them lightly into the mixture, turn it into a well-buttered
souffle tin or fireproof dish, and bake until set in a moderately hot
oven. Serve as quickly as possible.
Time. — J-hour. Average Cost, 9d. Sufficient for one dish.
3020. — CHEESE PATTIES. ( Fr . — Bouchees au
Fromage.)
Ingredients. — 4 oz. of grated cheese, 1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of flour,
\ a pint of milk, 4 eggs, salt and cayenne, a little puff paste.
Method. — Melt the butter in a stewpan, stir in the flour, add the milk,
and boil for 3 or 4 minutes, stirring meanwhile. Let the mixture cool
slightly, stir in the yolks of eggs, cook gently for 2 or 3 minutes, but
do not allow it to boil. Add the cheese, season to taste, then stir in as
lightly as possible the previously stiffly-whipped whites of eggs. Have
ready some patty-pans lined with thinly rolled out puff paste, fill with
the mixture, and bake in a quick oven.
Time. — 20 minutes. Average Cost, 9d. to rod. Sufficient for 9 persons.
P
3021. — CHEESE RAMAKINS. ( Fr . — Ramequin de
Fromage.)
Ingredients, — 1 oz. of Parmesan cheese, 1 oz, of Cheshire cheese, 1 oz,
1302
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
of butter, \ a tablespoonful of breadcrumbs, i egg, mace, salt and
pepper to taste, milk.
Method. — Barely cover the breadcrumbs with boiling milk, let them
stand covered for io minutes, then pound well in a mortar. Add the
cheese, previously cut finely, the butter, the yolk of the egg, season to
taste, and continue the pounding until a perfectly smooth mixture is
obtained. Whip the white of egg to a stiff froth, stir it lightly into
the mixture, pour it into well-buttered china or paper ramakin cases,
and bake in a quick oven until set.
Time. — J-hour. Average Cost, 6d. Sufficient for 6 persons.
3022. — CHEESE SANDWICHES.
Ingredients. — Thin slices of cheese, brown bread, butter.
Method. — Cut thin slices of bread from a brown loaf at least one day
old, and spread them liberally with butter. Cover half the prepared
slices with thin slices of cheese, cover with the remaining half, and cut
into squares or triangles. Place them in a moderately hot oven on a
buttered baking-sheet, and when both sides of the bread are crisp and
brown, arrange the sandwiches neatly on a hot dish, and serve as
quickly as possible.
Ti me. — 20 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. Sufficient for 5 persons.
3023. — CHEESE STRAWS. (Fr.— Pailles au Par-
mesan.)
Ingredients. — 1 oz. of finely-grated cheese, 1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of
breadcrumbs, 1 oz. of flour, a good pinch of salt, a small pinch of
cayenne, water.
Method. — Rub the butter into the flour, add the breadcrumbs, cheese,
cayenne and salt, and just sufficient cold water to mix into a stiff
paste. Roll the paste out to about a \ of an inch in thickness, cut it
into strips about 3 inches long and \ inch wide, and place the strips
on a greased baking-sheet. Bake in a moderately cool oven until
crisp, and serve either hot or cold.
Time. — J-hour. Average Cost, 4|-d. Sufficient for 5 persons.
Note. — For other methods of making cheese straws, see chapter on
Savouries. *
3024.— CREAM CHEESE. ( Fr . — Creme de Fromage.)
Ingredients. — 3 pints of double cream.
Method. — Tie the cream in a clean wet cloth, and hang it in a cool
place for 6 or 7 days. At the end of this time put it into a mould,
previously lined with butter muslin, and place it under slight pressure
for 2 or 3 days, turning it 2 or 3 times daily.
RECIPES FOR CHEESE
1303
3025. — MACARONI AND CHEESE. (Fr.- Macaroni
au Fromage.)
Ingredients. — \ of a lb. of macaroni, 3 oz. of grated cheese, 1 oz. of
butter, 2 yolks of eggs, \ a pint of good gravy, 4 tablespoonfuls of
cream, salt, cayenne and pepper.
Method. — Break the macaroni into short lengths, put them into the
gravy when quite boiling, and simmer until tender. Strain, put the
macaroni into a deep fireproof dish, and return the gravy to the stew-
pan. Add the well-beaten yolks of eggs, cream, salt, pepper and
cayenne to taste, and stir until the mixture slightly thickens. Pour
over the macaroni, sprinkle on the grated cheese, add the butter broken
into small pieces, and brown with a salamander, or in a brisk oven.
Time. — 1 hour. Average Cost, iod. Sulhcient for one dish.
3026. MACARONI CHEESE. (Fr. — Macaroni au
Gratin.)
Ingredients. — 4 oz. of macaroni, 3 oz. of grated cheese, 1 oz. of
butter, \ an oz. of flour, \ a pint of milk, \ a teaspoonful of made
mustard, salt and pepper to taste, brown breadcrumbs.
Method. — Break the macaroni into small pieces, put them into
slightly-salted rapidly-boiling water, boil until tender, and drain well.
Melt the butter in a stewpan, stir in the flour, add the milk, and boil
well, stirring continuously. Now add the macaroni, cheese, mustard,
a liberal seasoning of salt and pepper, and mix all well together. Have
ready a well-buttered fireproof dish, turn the mixture into it, sprinkle
the surface with brown breadcrumbs and grated cheese, place a few
small pieces of butter on the top, and bake in a quick oven until
nicely browned. If preferred, the mixture may be cooked in scallop
shells or ramakin cases.
Time. — f-hour. Average Cost, 6d. Sufficient for one dish.
3027. — POTTED CHEESE.
Ingredients. — 3 lbs. of Cheshire or Cheddar cheese. \ a lb. of butter,
i of a pint of Chablis or Sauterne, \ a teaspoonful of ground mace, a
good pinch of cayenne pepper, clarified butter.
Method. — Remove the rind, cut the cheese into small pieces, pound
it in a mortar until smooth, adding the } lb. of butter gradually.
Season to taste, stir in the wine, press the preparation into small pots,
and cover with clarified butter. Store in a cool, dry place.
Time.— 1 1 hours. Average Cost, 3s. 9d. to 4s. Sufficient for 9 pots.
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1304
3028. — STILTON CHEESE, TO SERVE.
Stilton cheese takes first rank as an English cheese. Those made in
May or June are considered ready for use at Christmas, but they are
not in prime condition until they have been kept for at least 12 months.
Good old cheese that owes its flavour entirely to the full development
of the constituents comprising it is undoubtedly the finest, but many
prefer the stronger flavour imparted by adding daily small quantities
of port, sherry, old ale or good stout, the liquor being poured in through
holes in the top of the cheese. In serving a Stilton cheese the top of
it should be cut off to form a lid, and a napkin or piece of white paper,
with a frill at the top, pinned round. When the cheese goes from table,
the lid should be replaced. Dishes of china or earthenware for Stilton
and other cheeses keep the cheese in good condition and prevent waste.
3029. — TOASTED CHEESE.
Ingredients. — Cheese, butter, ale or stout, mustard, pepper, toast.
Method — To serve this dish in perfection either a chafing-dish or an
old-fashioned cheese-toaster with an outer dish containing boiling
water is needed. Cut the cheese into thin slices, place them in the
cheese-toaster, spread on a little mustard, season them with pepper,
and, unless the cheese be very rich, add the butter broken into small
pieces. Pour over the whole 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of ale or stout
(milk may be substituted), stand the dish on a hot place or in a
moderately hot oven, and cook until the cheese is melted. Serve at
once in the hot-water dish, and hand crisp dry toast separately.
Time. — 10 minutes. Average Cost, 3d. Sufficient for 1 person.
3030. — TOASTED CHEESE. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — Cheshire or Cheddar cheese, bread, butter, mustard and
pepper.
Method. — Cut the bread into slices about \ an inch in thickness,
toast them, trim off the crust, and cut each slice across into 4 squares.
Cover each square with a thin slice of cheese toasted on one side, place
them before a sharp fire or in a moderately hot oven, and serve as soon
as sufficiently toasted.
3031. — TOASTED CHEESE, OR WELSH RAREBIT.
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of Cheshire or Cheddar cheese, 1 oz. of butter,
2 tablespoonfuls of either milk or ale, 1 teaspoonful of made mustard,
hot buttered toast.
Method. — Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the cheese cut into small
pieces, stir until melted, then add the milk or ale gradually, mustard and
season to taste. Have ready some hot-buttered toast, pour the cheese
preparation on to it, and serve as hot as possible.
Time. — 15 minutes. Average Cost, iod. Sufficient for 3 persons.
CHEESE
6 — Roquefort,
xi — Cheddar.
17 — Cream
RECIPES FOR EGGS
I3Q5
Eggs.
3032. — ALPINE EGGS. ( Fr . — Oeufs a la Suisse.)
Ingredients. — 4 eggs, 6 oz. of cheese, 2 oz. of butter, a little finely-
chopped parsley, pepper and salt.
Method. — Butter a fireproof baking-dish thickly, line it with the
greater part of the cheese cut in thin slices, and break the eggs over
this, keeping the yolks whole. Grate the remainder of the cheese or
chop it finely, and mix with it the parsley. Season the eggs liberally
with salt and pepper, sprinkle over them the grated cheese, and add
the remainder of the butter broken into small pieces. Bake in a quick
oven for 10 minutes and serve hot.
Time. — 10 minutes to bake. Average Cost, is. Sufficient for 4 persons.
3033. — BAKED EGGS. (Fr.— Oeufs au Four.)
Ingredients. — 6 eggs, 2 oz. of finely-grated cheese, 2 oz. of bread-
crumbs, \ oz. of butter, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, salt,
cayenne.
Method. — Butter 6 china or ramakin cases, put the seasoning into
them, and break an egg into each. Put an equal portion of gheese
into each cup, cover with breadcrumbs, and add a small piece of butter.
Bake in a moderate oven for about 5 minutes, or until set, and .serve hot.
Time. — 5 minutes to bake. Average Cost, is. to is. 2d. Sufficient for
4 persons.
3034. — BAKED EGGS, COQUETTE STYLE. (Fr.—
Oeufs a la Coquette.)
Ingredients. — 6 eggs, 2 oz. of finely chopped ham or tongue, 1 oz. of
butter, 6 dessertspoonfuls of cream, nutmeg, cayenne pepper and salt.
Method. — Liberally butter 6 ramakin cases, divide the remainder of
the butter into equal portions, and place one in each case. To each
add a dessertspoonful of cream, a pinch of nutmeg and a little salt and
pepper, and place them in the oven on a baking sheet. When the
contents begin to simmer break and add the eggs carefully, place a
pinch of cayenne in the centre of each yolk and replace in the oven.
When sufficiently cooked sprinkle the chopped ham or tongue lightly
on the white part of each egg, taking care to leave the yolk uncovered,
and serve hot.
Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, is. 8d. Sufficient for 5 or
6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
1306
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
3035. BOILED EGGS.
Method. — Eggs for boiling cannot be too fresh, but a longer time
should be allowed for boiling a new-laid egg than one that is 3 or 4
days old. Have ready a saucepan of boiling water, put the eggs into
it gently with a spoon, letting the spoon touch the bottom of the
saucepan before it is withdrawn, to avoid cracking the shell. For
those who like eggs lightly boiled, 3 to 3-J,- minutes will be found
sufficient, 4 minutes’ gentle boiling will lightly coagulate the white,
and 5 minutes will set it firmly. Eggs for salads and sandwiches should
be allowed to boil for 10 minutes. Cracking the shell and allowing the
egg to remain in water until cold prevents a dark rim forming round the
yolk.
Eggs. — When fresh eggs are dropped into a vessel full of boiling water they crack, because the
eggs, being well filled, the shells give way to the expansion of the interior fluids, caused by the heat.
If the volume of the hot water be small, the shells do not crack, since its temperature is reduced by
the eggs before the interior dilation can take place. Stale eggs do not crack, the air inside being
easily compressed.
3036. — BUTTERED EGGS. ( Fr . — Oeufs Brouilles au
Beurre.)
Ingredients. — 2 eggs, 1 oz. of butter, salt and pepper, buttered toast.
Method. — Melt the butter, but do not allow it to get hot. Break the
eggs into a basin, add seasoning to taste, beat slightly, then pour into
the stewpan containing the butter. Stir them briskly over a moderate
heat until quite thick, then pour over the prepared toast, and serve
at once.
Time. — 5 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. Sufficient for 2 persons.
3037. — DUCKS’ EGGS.
Ducks’ eggs are more strongly flavoured than those of fowls, and
when plainly boiled, are not generally liked. They may be used with
advantage in all culinary preparations, 1 duck’s egg being equal to 2
small hens’ eggs.
3038. — EGG FRITTERS, MILANAISE STYLE. (Fr.-
Beignets d’Oeufs a la Milanaise.)
Ingredients. — 4 hard-boiled eggs, \ an oz. of butter, \ an oz. of flour,
^ of a pint of milk, yolk of 1 egg, 1 oz. of finely chopped ham or tongue,
4 oz. of finely chopped chicken or veal, 1 teaspoonful of finely chopped
pajsley, 1 small shallot chopped and fried in butter, lemon-juice, salt,
pepper, egg and breadcrumbs, frying fat and parsley.
Method. — Halve the eggs lengthwise, and remove the yolks, melt
the butter in a stewpan, stir in the flour, add the milk, boil gently for
2 or 3 minutes, then put in the yolk of egg. Add the chopped ham
and chicken or veal, parsley, shallot, yolks of the hard boiled eggs, a
RECIPES FOR EGGS
1307
little lemon- juice and seasoning to taste. Fill the cavities of the
whites of eggs with the preparation, coat carefully with egg and bread-
crumbs, and fry in hot fat until nicely browned. Drain well and serve
garnished with crisply fried parsley.
Time. — 30 minutes. Average Cost, is. 3d. Sufficient for 5 persons.
3039. — EGG FRITTERS, ROYAL STYLE. ( Fr .—
Beignets d’Oeufs a la Royale.)
Ingredients. — 6 eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, salt, pepper, frying
batter ( see No. 1645), frying fat.
Method. — Beat the eggs, add the cream, season to taste with salt
and pepper, and pour the preparation into a well buttered plain mould.
Steam gently until set, let it cool, then unmould and cut into strips
about 2\ inches long and \ an inch in thickness. Make the batter as
directed, dip in the egg strips, and fry in hot fat until crisp and lightly
browned. Drain well and serve.
Time. — To steam the custard, about 20 minutes. Average Cost, is.
Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.
3040. — EGG KROMESKIS.
(Fr. — Cromesquis d’Oeufs.)
Ingredients. — 3 hard-boiled eggs, the yolks of 2 raw eggs, of a pint
of white sauce (No. 222), a level tablespoonful of chopped tongue or
ham, \ a teaspoonful of finely chopped truffles, 5 thin pancakes ( see
Pancakes, Frying Batter), salt, pepper, frying fat.
Method. — Chop the eggs coarsely, add the sauce, yolks of raw eggs,
tongue, truffle, seasoning to taste, and stir over the fire for a few
minutes. Let the preparation cool, then divide it into pieces, the size
and shape of a cork, and enfold in squares of pancake. Dip separately
into frying batter, fry in hot fat until nicely browned, drain well, and
serve.
Time. — 40 minutes. Average Cost, is. 7d. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
3041. — EGGS A LA COURTET. (Fr— Oeufs a la
Courtet.)
Ingredients.— 4 tomatoes, 2 tablespoonfuls of mayonnaise sauce, 1 gill
of aspic jelly, 2 eggs, i\ oz. of butter, salt and pepper, salad.
Method. — Cut the tomatoes in halves, and scoop, out the centre.
Have ready the eggs scrambled (as for Buttered Eggs), fill the
tomatoes with the preparation, and set aside until quite cold. Coat
them with cool aspic jelly, and when set, serve garnished with salad
dressed with mayonnaise.
Time. — 1,-hour. Average Cost, is. 3d. Sufficient for 4 persons.
1308 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
3042.— EGGS A LA DREUX. (Fr.— Oeufs a la
Dreux.)
Ingredients. — 6 eggs, £ of a lb. of lean cooked ham, \ an oz. of butter,
2 tablespoonfuls of cream, 1 dessertspoonful of finely-chopped parsley,
6 small rounds of buttered toast, cayenne, salt and pepper.
Method. — Chop the ham finely, and mix with it the parsley. Coat
5 deep patty-pans thickly with butter, and cover them completely with
a thin layer of ham preparation. Break an egg into each pan, taking
care to keep the yolk whole, sprinkle with a little cayenne pepper and
salt, and add to each an equal portion of cream and a small piece of
butter. Place the patty-pans in a deep baking-tin, surround them
to half their depth with boiling water, and cook them in a moderate
oven until the whites are set. Have ready the rounds of toast, cut to
the size of the patty-pans, dish the eggs on them, and serve.
Time. — 10 minutes to bake. Average Cost, is. 6d. to is. 8d. Sufficient
for 6 persons.
3043. — EGGS A LA MAITRE D’HOTEL.
Ingredients. — 4 eggs, 2 oz. of butter, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, \ of
a pint of milk, 1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley, 1 teaspoonful of
lemon-juice, salt and pepper.
Method. — Melt 1 oz. of butter in a stewpan, stir in the flour, add the
milk, and boil for 2 minutes. Have ready the eggs boiled hard, remove
the shells, cut each egg into 4 or 8 pieces, and arrange them neatly on
a dish. Season the sauce to taste, whisk in the remainder of the
butter, adding it gradually in small pieces, stir in the parsley and
lemon-juice, then pour the sauce over the eggs and serve.
Time. — 20 minutes. Average Cost, iod. Sufficient for 2 or 3 persons.
3044. — EGGS, COLBERT STYLE. (Fr.— Oeufs a la
Colbert.)
Ingredients. — 6 new laid eggs, grated Parmesan or Gruyere cheese,
salt, pepper, frying fat or oil.
Method. — Break each egg carefully into a cup, season liberally with
salt and pepper. Sprinkle over half a teaspoonful of cheese, and
drop carefully into hot fat or oil. Fry until they acquire a nice brown
colour, turning frequently with a wooden spoon meanwhile, then
drain well, sprinkle liberally with cheese and serve.
Time. — To fry, 5 or 6 minutes. Average Cost, is. Sufficient for 5 or
6 persons.
RECIPES FOR EGGS
1309
3045. — EGGS, FLORENTINE STYLE. (Fr.— Oeufs a
la Florentine.)
Ingredients. — 6 poached eggs, 6 pastry croustades, spinach puree,
J- of a pint of white sauce No. 222, 1 level dessertspoonful of grated
Parmesan cheese.
Method. —Spread a thin layer of spinach puree at the bottom of
each croustade, put in an egg, and cover witli sauce which must be
previously mixed with the cheese and seasoned to taste. Make
thoroughly hot and serve.
Time. — 10 minutes, in addition to time spent in preparing eggs, crou-
stades and spinach. Average Cost, is. 5d. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
3046. — EGGS IN BAKED POTATOES. (Fr.— Oeufs a
la Parmentier.)
Ingredients. — 6 eggs, 3 large potatoes, 1 oz. of grated cheese, 4 an oz.
of butter, of a pint (about) of Bechamel or white sauce No. 178 or
222, breadcrumbs.
Method. — Wash and scrub the potatoes, bake them, cut them in
halves, and scoop out the greater part of the inside. Poach the eggs
and trim them neatly. Put a little sauce in each halved potato, and
add an egg. Mix the remainder of the sauce with half the cheese, and
spread it lightly over the eggs. Sprinkle first with breadcrumbs, then
with cheese, add little bits of butter, brown the surface in a hot oven,
and serve.
Time. — Altogether, i|- to \\ hours. Average Cost, is. to is. 3d. Suffi-
cient for 5 or 6 persons.
3047. — EGGS, IN CASES. (Fr.— Oeufs en Caisses.)
Ingredients. — 6 eggs, 1 tablespoonful of grated Parmesan cheese,
2 tablespoonfuls of breadcrumbs (about), 2 tablespoonfuls of cream,
1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley, 1 finely chopped shallot, butter, salt,
pepper, 6 china or paper ramakin cases.
Method. — Brush the inside of the ramakin cases over with clarified
butter or oil, and place them on a baking-tin in the oven for a few
minutes. Fry the shallot in a little butter, then drain and put it
equally divided into the cases. To the breadcrumbs add half the
cheese and parsley and a good seasoning of salt and pepper, and put
an equal amount of the mixture into each case. Add very small piece of
butter, carefully break and put in the eggs, and sprinkle with salt
and pepper. Pour a little cream over each egg, add the remainder of
the cheese, bake in a moderate oven until set, then sprinkle with
parsley and serve.
Time. — To bake, about 6 minutes. Average Cost, is. 3d. Sufficient
for 5 or 6 persons.
1310
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
3048. — EGGS, IN MAYONNAISE ASPIC. (Fr— Oeufs
a la Courtet.)
Ingredients. — 3 large tomatoes, 6 eggs, 1 oz. of butter, 2 tablespoon-
fuls of cream, salt, pepper, mayonnaise sauce, aspic jelly, salad.
Method. — Cut the tomatoes across in halves, squeeze out all the
juice and remove some of the pulp. Beat the eggs, add the cream
and seasoning to taste, pour the preparation into a stewpan containing
the butter, and stir over the fire until it thickens. Let it cool, then
fill the prepared tomatoes, piling the mixture somewhat high, and
when quite cold coat first with mayonnaise sauce and afterwards with
aspic jelly. Serve on a well dressed salad.
Time. — Altogether, about 1} hours. Average Cost, 2s. Sufficient
for s or 6 persons.
3049. — EGGS, MORNAY STYLE. (Fr.— Oeufs a la
Mornay.)
Ingredients. — 6 hard-boiled eggs, about 1 oz. of butter, 1^ oz. of
grated cheese, } of a pint of white sauce No. 222, nutmeg, salt, pepper.
Method. — Cut the eggs into thick slices, place them on a well but-
tered fireproof dish, and sprinkle them lightly with nutmeg and more
liberally with salt and pepper. Add 1 oz. of cheese to the sauce, pour
it over the eggs. Sprinkle thickly with cheese, and add a few tiny
pieces of butter. Brown the surface in a hot oven, and serve.
Time. — To bake, about 5 minutes. Average Cost, is. Sufficient for
4 or s persons.
3050. — EGGS, PIEMONTAISE STYLE. (Fr.— Oeufs
a la Piemontaise.)
Ingredients. — 6 eggs, 4 oz. Carolina rice, 3 or 4 ripe but firm toma-
toes, 2 tablespoonfuls of grated Parmesan cheese, 2 slices of bacon
fried and cut into fine strips, black pepper, stock, salt, pepper.
Method. — Wash and drain the rice, cover it with stock and boil
gently until soft and dry, adding more stock when necessary. Mean-
while squeeze the juice from the tomatoes and chop them finely. When
the rice is ready add to it the tomatoes, bacon, cheese and a good
seasoning of salt and pepper, and press into a flat mould, which after-
wards invert on to a hot dish. Fry the eggs in clarified butter or oil.
trim them neatly, and arrange them in a circle round the rice shape.
Place a tiny pinch of black pepper in the centre of each yolk of egg, and
serve.
Time. — About 1} hours. Average Cost, is. 8d. Sufficient for 5 or 6
persons.
RECIPES FOR EGGS
ijn
3051— EGGS, POLONAISE STYLE. (Fr.— Oeufs a
la Polonaise.)
Ingredients. — 6 eggs, 1 tablespoonful of cream, 1 teaspoonful of finely
chopped parsley, 1 teaspoonful of finely chopped chives, 1 teacupful
of small dice of bread, clarified butter, salt, pepper.
Method. — Fry the dice of bread in clarified butter and drain well.
Beat the eggs, add the cream, parsley, chives, fried bread and a good
seasoning of salt and pepper, and pour the preparation into a stew-
pan containing about 2 tablespoonfuls of clarified butter. Stir over
the fire until the mixture is thick enough to spread, then drop it in
spoonfuls into hot clarified butter, fry, drain well and serve.
Time. — Altogether, about 15 minutes. Average Cost, is. 3d. Suffi-
cient for s or 6 persons.
3052. — EGGS SUR LE PLAT.
Ingredients. — 4 eggs, 1 oz. of butter, salt and pepper.
Method. —Spread a fireproof dish thickly with butter, break the eggs
into it, taking care to keep the yolks whole, and season them lightly
with salt and pepper. Put the remainder of the butter, cut into very
small pieces, on the top of the eggs, and bake in a moderately hot
oven until the whites become set, but not hard. Serve in the dish in
which they were cooked.
Time. — 10 minutes. Average Cost, 8d. Sufficient for 2 persons.
3053. — EGGS, TO CHOOSE.
The freshness of eggs may be tested in several ways. One ingenious
apparatus is a speculum, furnished with an interior looking-glass,
which renders the egg sufficiently transparent to show if it is fresh,
infected, or really bad. If fresh, a clear disk is thrown ; if stale, a
cloudy disk with spots ; and if bad, a dark unsightly disk is visible.
Another method of ascertaining their freshness is to hold them before
a lighted candle or to the light. If the egg looks clear, it will be per-
fectly good ; but if there is a black spot attached to the shell, it is
worthless. The former test cannot be put into practice when pur-
chasing eggs in the ordinary way, and the latter test can only be applied
at night time when an artificial light is burning. To an experienced
buyer the size, weight and appearance of eggs indicate their value,
stale eggs being considerably lighter than those newly laid. Eggs
that cannot be relied on should always be broken separately.
Eggs contain, for their bulk, a greater quantity of nutriment
than any other article of food. In 100 parts there are 73-5° parts of
water, 13-5° of proteids, ii-6o of fats, and 1-40 of salts. It does not,
however, follow that eggs are always suited to weak digestions ; quite
1312
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
the contrary, for it is often a great object to give the stomach a large
surface to work upon, a considerable volume of ingesta, over which the
nutritive matter is diffused, and so exposed to the action of the
gastric juice at many points; for there are many persons who cannot
digest eggs, however cooked. The indigestibility of eggs decreases in
proportion to the degree in which they are hardened by boiling.
3054. — EGGS, TO KEEP, FOR WINTER USE.
Method. — Procure the eggs warm from the nest, grease them thoroughly
all over with butter, lard or oil, lay them in a box on a thick layer of
bran, and surround each egg with a little bran, to prevent them touch-
ing each other. Cover each layer of eggs thickly with bran.
3055. — EGGS WITH BLACK BUTTER. (Fr.— Oeufs
frits au Beurre Noir.)
Ingredients. — 4 eggs, 2 oz. of butter, anchovy paste, 1 dessertspoonful
of tarragon vinegar, finely-chopped parsley, buttered toast.
Method. — Melt the butter in a saute-pan or frying-pan, and fry the
eggs, taking care to keep the yolks whole. Have ready some well-
buttered toast cut into small rounds, spread them lightly with anchovy
paste, then place the eggs on them. Re-heat the butter with the
tarragon vinegar, cook it until dark brown, then pour it over the eggs
and serve them garnished with fried parsley.
Time. — 20 minutes. Average Cost, is. Sufficient for 2 or 3 persons.
3056. — EGGS WITH MUSHROOMS. (Fr.— Oeufs aux
Champignons.)
Ingredients. — 6 eggs, 12 small mushrooms, 1 oz. of butter, 2 small
onions, \ a pint of good gravy, pepper and salt.
Method. — Boil the eggs hard, and when cold cut them into rather
thin slices. Slice, and fry the mushrooms and onions in the butter,
add the gravy, bring to the boil, and season to taste. Put in the sliced
eggs, let them become thoroughly hot, then dish carefully, and serve.
Time. — |~hour. Average Cost, is. 6d. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
3057. — EGGS WITH WHITE SAUCE. (Fr.— Oeufs a
la Tripe.)
Ingredients.— 6 eggs, \ a pint of good white sauce (see Sauces), a
little finely-chopped parsley, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream.
Method. — Boil the eggs hard, let them remain in water until quite
cold, then divide each one into slices or small sections. Make the sauce
as directed, season it with salt and pepper, and add the cream.
RECIPES FOR EGGS
1313
Arrange the prepared eggs in 6 china coquille cases, or failing these,
in one dish, cover them with sauce, sprinkle lightly with parsley, then
serve.
Time. — Ghour. Average Cost, is. qd. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
3058. — FRICASSEE OF EGGS. (Fr. — Fricassee d’Oeufs.)
Ingredients. — 4 hard-boiled eggs, \ a pint of white sauce ( see Sauces),
fried or toasted croutons of bread, finely-chopped parsley, salt and
pepper.
Method. — Boil the eggs hard, cut them into rather thick slices, and
reserve the yolk of 1 for garnishing. Prepare the sauce as directed,
season to taste, put in the sliced eggs, and let them become thoroughly
hot. Arrange neatly on a hot dish, sprinkle with parsley, and yolk
of egg previously passed through a fine sieve, garnish with the croutons,
then serve.
Time. — Ghour. Average Cost, iod. to is. Sufficient for 2 or 3 persons.
3059. — FRIED EGGS. (Fr. — Oeufs Frits.)
Ingredients. — 4 eggs, 2 oz. of butter or fat, toasted bread.
Method. — Heat the butter or fat in a fryingpan. Break the eggs
into cups, slip them gently in the hot butter or fat, and fry until the
whites are set. Whilst they are frying, draw the whites gently over
the yolks with a spoon, and when set, baste them well with the butter
or fat. Take the eggs up with a slice, drain well from fat, trim them
neatly, and serve on slices of toast. If the eggs are to be served with
ham or bacon, cook them in the fat obtained by frying the same.
Time. — 10 minutes. Average Cost, 8d. Sufficient for 2 or 3 persons.
3060. — OVERTURNED EGGS.
Ingredients. — Eggs, breadcrumbs, butter, salt and pepper.
Method. — Butter some china ramakin cases or very small patty-pans
thoroughly. Coat them rather thickly with breadcrumbs, into each
one break an egg, and sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper. Bake
gently until set, then invert them carefully on to a hot dish, and serve.
3061. — OX EYES.
Ingredients. — Eggs, stale bread, sour cream, milk, butter.
Method. — Cut some slices of stale bread £ of an inch in thickness,
loast and stamp them into rounds 3 inches in diameter, then take out
the middle of each round with a 1} inch diameter cutter. Place the
rings in a well-buttered dish, pour over them gradually as much sour
cream as they will absorb without becoming sodden, then break 1 egg
u u
I3I4
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
carefully into each ring. Sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper, cover
each egg with i teaspoonful of new milk, and bake gently until the
whites are set, but not hard.
Time. — 5 to 6 minutes.
3062. — PARMENTIER EGGS. ( Fr . — Oeufs a la
Parmentier.)
Ingredients. — 6 eggs, 3 large potatoes, 1 oz. of grated cheese, \ an oz.
of butter, 1 gill of white sauce, breadcrumbs, lemon-juice, salt and
pepper.
Method. — Scrub the potatoes thoroughly, bake them until done, cut
them in halves, scoop out the mealy inside, and put in a little sauce.
Poach the eggs in salted water flavoured with lemon- juice, and place
them carefully in the halved potatoes. Mix \ the cheese with the
remaining sauce, and sprinkle it lightly over the eggs. Sprinkle first
with breadcrumbs, then with cheese, put small pieces of butter on the
top, and brown in a moderately hot oven.
Time. — 1 hour. Average Cost, is. 46.. Sufficient for 6 persons.
3063. — POACHED EGGS. ( Fr . — Oeufs poches.)
Ingredients. — Eggs, buttered toast, salt, vinegar, or lemon-juice.
Method. — Eggs for poaching should be fresh, but not new-laid; for
if poached before they have been laid 36 hours, the white is so milky
that it is almost impossible to coagulate it. To prepare, boil some
water in a shallow stewpan or deep fryingpan, add salt to taste, and
allow to each pint of water 1 tablespoonful of vinegar, or 1 teaspoonful
of lemon-juice. Break the egg into a cup, taking care to keep the yolk
whole, and when the water boils, remove the pan to the side of the
fire, and gently slip the egg into it. Tilt the pan, with a tablespoon
gently fold the white of the egg over the yolk, so as to produce a plump
appearance, and simmer gently until the white is set. Take it up
carefully with a slice, trim the edges if necessary, and serve either on
buttered toast, slices of ham or bacon, or spinach.
Time. — 5 minutes to cook.
3064. — POACHED EGGS WITH SPINACH. (Fr. —
Oeufs poches aux Epinards.)
Ingredients. — 6 eggs, 1 pint of spinach puree, either fresh or tinned,
1 oz. of butter, 1 tablespoonful of brown sauce, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-
juice or vinegar, nutmeg, salt, pepper, and sippets of toasted bread.
Method. — Prepare the spinach puree ( see Chapter on Vegetables),
place it in a saucepan, add the butter, a good pinch of nutmeg, salt,
pepper and the brown sauce, and make thoroughly hot, Meanwhile
RECIPES FOR EGGS
1315
poach the eggs and turn them neatly. Turn the spinach on to a hot
dish, flatten the surface lightly ; upon it place the eggs and garnish
with sippets of toasted bread. Serve good gravy or brown sauce
separately.
Time. — 20 minutes after the puree is made. Average Cost, is. 4d.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
3065. — POACHED EGGS WITH TOMATO SAUCE.
(Fr. — Oeufs poches a la Tomate.)
Ingredients. — 6 eggs, 4 oz. of rice, 1 oz. of butter, } of a pint of tomato
sauce ( see No. 282, Sauces), about \ a pint of stock, salt and
pepper.
Method. — Wash and drain the rice, add it to the boiling stock, cook
gently until all the stock has become absorbed, leaving the rice soft
and dry, then stir in the butter and season to taste. Poach the eggs
until firm and trim them neatly. Arrange the rice lightly on a hot dish,
place the eggs upon it, and pour the hot sauce round and serve.
Time. — 1 :j- hours. Average Cost, is. 4d. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
3066. — PLOVERS’ EGGS. ( Fr . — Oeufs de Pluviers.)
Plovers’ eggs are served boiled hard. They are frequently used to
garnish salads. The eggs are usually boiled from p to 20 minutes ;
and the albumen after boiling obtains a beautiful translucent bluish
colour.
3067. — PLOVERS’ EGGS IN ASPIC. (Fr.— Oeufs de
Pluviers en Aspic.)
Ingredients. — Hard boiled plovers’ eggs, aspic jelly, salad, chili and
truffle for decoration.
Method. — Set a little aspic jelly in the bottom of the dariols chosen,
and decorate them tastefully with chili and fancifully cut truffle.
Place 1 egg in each mould, fill up with aspic jelly, and put on ice or in
a cold place until set. Unmould and serve garnished with salad.
Time. — 1£ to 2 hours. Average Cost of eggs, 6d. each. Sufficient, allow
1 for each person. Seasonable August to October.
3068. — PLOVER’S EGGS ON CROUTES. (Fr.— Oeufs
de Pluviers sur Croutes.)
Ingredients. — Hard boiled plovers’ eggs, brown bread, butter, salad,
aspic jelly.
Method. — Cut some moderately thin slices of bread and butter, and
stamp out some small rounds. Work about 2 oz. of butter until
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1316
creamy, and put it into a paper cone. Place 1 egg on each round of
breid and butter, and keep it in place by forcing some of the butter
round the egg. Garnish with chopped aspic and salad. Variety may
be introduced by using Montpelier or anchovy butter.
Time. — |-hour. Average Cost of eggs, 6d. each. Sufficient, allow 1 for
each person.
3069. — SCOTCH EGGS. (Fr — Oeufs Ecossaise.)
Ingredients. — -3 hard-boiled eggs, \ a lb. of sausage meat, 1 egg, bread-
crumbs, frying-fat, 6 croutes of fried bread.
Method. — Let the eggs become quite cold, remove the shells, and
cover each one completely with sausage meat. Coat them carefully
with beaten egg and breadcrumbs, and fry in hot fat until nicely
browned. Cut each egg in half, dish them out side upwards on the
croutes of fried bread, besprinkled with chopped parsley, and serve
either hot or cold.
Time. — J-hour. Average Cost, is. Sufficient for 6 persons.
3070. — SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH GREEN PEA
PUREE. (Fr. — Oeufs a la St. Germaine.)
Ingredients. — 6 eggs, £ of a pint of green pea puree, i-|- ozs. of butter,
1 tablespoonful of either white or brown sauce, 2 tablespoonfuls of
milk, salt, pepper and chopped parsley.
Method. — Obtain the puree by passing cooked green peas through a
fine sieve, place it in a stewpan, add \ an oz. of butter, the sauce and
seasoning to taste, and make thoroughly hot. Melt the remainder
of the butter in another stewpan, add the eggs, previously beaten,
seasoned to taste, and mixed with the milk, and stir over the fire until
the mixture is sufficiently cooked. Place the green pea puree in six
well-buttered ramakin cases, fill them with the egg mixture, sprinkle
with parsley and serve.
Time. — About \ an hour. Average Cost, is. sd. Sufficient for 6
persons. Seasonable at any time.
VEGETARIAN COOKERY
CHAPTER XLIII
General Observations on Vegetarianism and Recipes for
Vegetarian Soups, Savouries, Sauces, Farinaceous
Foods, and Puddings and Pastry.
Vegetarianism.— As this book is designed to give useful information
to all housekeepers, the present chapter has been added for the benefit
of those who do not eat animal food, or prefer an alternative diet.
From the earliest ages the doctrines and practices of vegetarianism
have been observed, from necessity, as a religious duty, or on the
grounds of health. So long ago as the time of Pythagoras, vege-
tarianism was practised, while the Hindus from remote antiquity
have subsisted on vegetable food. In England the question has come
to the front on the ground of dietetic reform, and a number of persons
known as “ Vegetarians ” abstain from animal food altogether, or take
it only in such forms as milk, cheese, butter and eggs. The stricter
adherents, however, abstain from the use of some or all of these pro-
ducts. Other people, while not classing themselves as vegetarians,
consider that a less quantity of animal food than is generally eaten
is sufficient to keep the body in health, and avail themselves of the
various dishes tastefully served at the numerous vegetarian restaurants
which are now common in London and other large towns.
It is not within the scope of this work to discuss critically pro
and con the subject of vegetarianism. It may, however, be stated
that the following constitute the principal physiological reasons for the
use by man of a mixed diet. Every animal by natural selection and
the nature of its environment is structurally adapted for the special
kind of food which serves for its nourishment, such adaptation being
determined by the nature of its teeth, the length and complexity of
the digestive canal, the character of the climate of its habitat, and the
particular constitution of the animal. Man, by the structure of his
teeth and digestive organs, the latter standing midway in length and
complexity between the plant-eating animals and the carnivora, is
specially adapted for a mixed diet. Race and climate are, however,
important factors in determining the greater or less use of flesh as
food. In cold regions fats or hydrocarbons are necessary, not only
1317
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1318
to renew the fatty tissues of the body, but to yield heat and energy,
hence the Eskimo subsists largely on fat and blubber ; in a more
temperate climate both meat and vegetable food are advantageously
used, while in hot regions a plant dietary is found to be the best adapted
for man. Climate, therefore, and the particular requirements of in-
dividual constitutions, must determine the adoption of a vegetarian,
or a mixed vegetarian, or a meat diet.
Constituents of Food. — It is hardly necessary to say that, whether one
lives on animal or vegetable food, the same constituents must be pre-
sent. Water, starch, or sugar, salts, and flesh-formers are not less
demanded by one class of the community than the rest. As for water,
it is free to all; but it is worthy of notice that in most vegetarian cook-
ery-books there is a large preponderance of soups, and stews, and
porridges, all moist foods, containing much water, and therefore not
calling for much water to accompany them. Vegetable food is not
provocative of thirst to the same extent that animal food is. In most
of the recipes, condiments and seasonings are sparingly used; in some
they are not used at all. We have, however, in the recipes that
follow, added a usual amount of seasoning.
Starch or Sugar. — These are a vegetable food, and used by all. The
people who do without starch are those who live in the region of
ice and snow, where plants cannot grow, and where a rigid vege-
tarian would soon have to give up the struggle for life. The prepared
starches, such as cornflour, arrowroot, sago and tapioca are very
cheap, and starch, in combination with other substances — in
potatoes, flour, rice, oatmeal — is commoner still.
Fat is rather difficult of digestion with some, who get over it by hav-
ing recourse to butter, which is more easily digested than the fat of
meat. But there is a small quantity of fat in cereals, and in many
foods where it is not suspected. Vegetable oils are both palatable
and cheap. There is olive-oil, used for salads very sparingly in this
country, very plentifully on the Continent; walnut-oil, also common
in France, Italy and Switzerland ; cotton-seed oil, pressed from the
seed of the cotton plant, and exported to England in large quantities,
partly to adulterate the dearer kinds of oils, partly for more legitimate
use in preserving fish and in frying.
Albuminoids, commonly described as flesh- formers, are also found
to some extent in nearly all vegetables. Gluten in flour, fibrin in all
cereals, nitrogen in some form in every plant that grows — these all
supply flesh-formers in different quantities. Vegetarians never re-
commend, and seldom practice, the habit of eating very white bread,
and so get more flesh-formers by that channel than all the rest of the
world. But the great stand-by is in the pulses — beans, peas and
lentils — which are richer in albuminoids than any food that is known.
Macaroni and semolina, though made only of wheat and water, are
richer in flesh-formers than the white wheat-flour commonly used.
RECIPES FOR VEGETARIAN COOKERY 1319
Many recipes given here, and also in approved vegetarian cookery-
books, use milk and eggs in abundance. These animal foods are not
open to the same objections that are made to meat. At any rate, they
are highly-concentrated foods, containing much nourishment in a
small space, and are particularly rich in albuminoids.
We have already had occasion to remark that it is chiefly from vege-
tables and fresh fruits that we ail must draw our supplies of salts,
whether we eat meat in addition or no.
Soups
3071. — VEGETABLE STOCK. (Fr. — Bouillon Maigre.)
Ingredients. — 2 quarts of water, 2 ozs. of haricot beans, 2 ozs. of split
peas, 1 onion, 1 carrot, \ a stick of celery, parsley, herbs, pepper and
salt, 3, cloves, 1 blade of mace.
Method. — Boil all the above vegetables, spice and herbs in 2 quarts
of water for 3 or 4 hours. Skim well. Strain it off. It will keep for
some time if it is left to stand and poured from the sediment.
Time. — From 3 to 4 hours. Average Cost, 3d. Sufficient for 4 or 5
persons.
Note. — This may serve as the basis of a good many soups and sauces,
just as stock made of meat and bones serves many purposes. All cooks may
be assured that if gravy has to be made and no meat is at hand of which
to make it, water in which any vegetables have been boiled (except potatoes)
will be better than plain water.
3072. — BROWN VEGETABLE SOUP.
Ingredients. — 2 quarts of water, 1 slice of bread, 1 cabbage, 2 carrots,
1 turnip, 2 onions, 2 potatoes, parsley, salt and pepper, 1 tablespoonful
of oil or 1 oz. of butter.
Method. — Fry a slice of onion in the oil or butter in a large saucepan.
When it is brown, but not burnt, add 2 quarts of water, salt, pepper,
a slice of stale bread toasted, and vegetables cut up into small
pieces. (One small cabbage, 2 carrots, 1 turnip, 2 onions, 2 or 3 potatoes,
and a bunch of parsley, make a good soup.) French beans, green peas
with their pods, celery, parsnips, or any other vegetable may be added.
Boil for 3 or 4 hours, then mash the vegetables through a colander,
or in a saucepan with a spoon, boil for another 10 minutes, and the
soup is ready. If it is too thick, add more water, and boil for 10 minutes
after putting in the water ; if too thin, boil fast with the lid off the
saucepan until it is thick enough.
Time. — From 3 to 4 hours. Average Cost, 3d. to 4d. Sufficient for
4 or 5 persons.
1320
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
3073. — CHEESE SOUP. (JFr. — Creme au Fromage.)
Ingredients. — 2 ozs. of grated Parmesan cheese, 1 oz. of butter, 2 eggs,
1 pint of milk, 1 pint of water, 1 small onion finely chopped, 1 French
roll, salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the roll across into slices, and dry them well in the
oven. Heat the butter in a stewpan, fry the onion without browning,
then add milk and water, and when nearly boiling put in the eggs
slightly beaten, the grated cheese, salt and pepper to taste, and stir
the ingredients until the soup thickens, but it must not boil, otherwise
the eggs may curdle. Place the slices of bread in a tureen, pour the
soup over, and serve. This soup is prepared in a few minutes.
Time. — Altogether, about \ an hour. Average Cost, 8d. to 9d.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
3074. — COUNT RUMFORD’S SOUP.
Ingredients.— \ of a lb. of Scotch barley, 3 ozs. of split peas, 12 oz.
of potatoes, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 2 quarts of water, \ of a lb.
of bread or breadcrusts, salt, sweet herbs.
Method. — First boil the barley, peas and water for 2 hours very
slowly; then add the potatoes, vinegar and salt, and simmer for another
hour. Put in the bread just before serving.
Time. — 3 hours. Average Cost, 3M. to 4d. Sufficient for 4 or 5
persons.
Note. — If the soup is cooked too rapidly, it will be necessary to add more
water to supply the deficiency caused by evaporation.
3075. — GRAVY SOUP, RICH.
Ingredients. — 1 quart of vegetable stock No. 3071, 2 tablespoonfuls
of sherry, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, 1 teaspoonful of
walnut ketchup, 1 teaspoonful of arrowroot, browning, salt and pepper.
Method. — Make the stock as directed, and if at all cloudy clear it
with the whites and shells of 2 eggs. Mix the ketchup and arrowroot
smoothly together, stir it into the stock, season to taste, add a few
drops of browning and the sherry. Simmer and stir for 3 or 4 minutes,
then serve garnished with shredded vegetables, cooked macaroni,
vermicelli, pates d’ltalie, perles de Nizam, or small egg balls ( see Clear
Soup).
Time. — 10 minutes, after the stock is made. Average Cost, 5d. or 6d.,
in addition to the garnish. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
3076. — GREEN PEA SOUP. (Fr.— Puree de Pois verts.)
Ingredients. — 1 pint of peas, with their shells, 1 small lettuce, x sprig
of parsley, 1 sprig of mint, 1 small leek, 2 quarts of water, \ a pint of
milk, or milk and cream, salt and pepper, soda, sugar.
RECIPES FOR VEGETARIAN COOKERY
1321
Method. — Shell the peas, and put them into the boiling water with
their shells, a small piece of soda and the other vegetables. In about
20 minutes take out a few of the peas for garnish, and when the rest of
the vegetables are tender rub them through a sieve. The larger part
of the shells can be rubbed through, and they make quite as good
soup as the peas themselves. Boil the soup again, adding sugar and
seasoning and the milk. If cream be added it must not be boiled.
Garnish with the whole peas, and serve immediately.
Time. — About 40 minutes. Average Cost, 9d. Sufficient for 6 or 7
persons.
3077. — HOTCHPOTCH.
Ingredients. — 3 ozs. of pearl-barley, 1 small cabbage, 2 carrots, 1
turnip, 2 onions, parsley and herbs, 2 ozs. of butter, salt and pepper,
3 quarts of water.
Method. — Put the barley on the fire with the cold water. Scrape
or grate one of the carrots, and put it aside in a little water. Chop
all the rest of the vegetables very small, and when the water boils put
them in with the butter, salt and pepper. There should be enough
vegetable to make it rather thick. Boil it all for 2 hours, then add the
scraped carrots, and boil for another 30 minutes.
Time. — About 3 hours. Average Cost, 6d. Sufficient for 5 or 6
persons.
Note. — Many other vegetables may be added. Lettuce, green peas and
celery when in season.
3078. — JULIENNE SOUP.
Ingredients.- — 1 quart of clarified vegetable stock, turnip, carrot,
celery, onion, salt and pepper, mushroom ketchup, walnut ketchup,
sherry, if liked.
Method. — Cut the vegetables into fine strips about the size and shape
of a small match, and boil them separately until tender, but not broken.
Have the stock ready boiling, add salt, pepper, very little ketchup,
and sherry to taste, put in the prepared vegetables, cook for 15
minutes and serve.
Time. — From 40 to 50 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. Sufficient for
3 or 4 persons.
3079. — LENTIL SOUP (GREEN).
Ingredients. — \ a pint of green lentils, a handful of spinach or a few
drops of spinach colouring, 1 onion, 1 carrot, -1 a small turnip, all sliced,
1 or 2 strips of celery, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf),
1 quart of water, £ of a pint of cream or a pint of milk, salt and
pepper.
1322
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Soak the lentils overnight. Wash and drain them well,
put them into the water when boiling, add the vegetables and \ a tea-
spoonful of salt. Simmer for 3^ hours, or until soft, pass the whole
through a fine sieve, and replace in the stewpan. Boil up, add the
cream or milk, season to taste with salt and pepper, stir and boil gently
for 10 minutes, then serve with fried or toasted croutons of bread.
Time. — About 4|- hours. Average Cost, 4d. with milk, 8d. with
cream. Sufficient for 4 persons.
3080. — POTATO SOUP. (Fr. — Puree de Pommes de
terre.)
Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of potatoes, 1 leek, 1 stick of celery, £ of a pint of
cream, 1 pint of milk, 1 quart of water, 2 ozs. of butter, salt and pepper,
2 ozs. of sago or tapioca.
Method. — Cut up the prepared vegetables, using only the white part
of the leek, and put them in a saucepan with the butter. Let them
cook for about 10 minutes, but not take colour ; then add the milk and
water, and boil for about f of an hour, or until the mixture is soft enough
to rub through a fine sieve. Boil it again, adding more milk if
necessary, sprinkle in the sago, and let it simmer until it is transparent.
Lastly add the cream, which must not boil. Serve with fried bread
croutons.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, is. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Note. — The colour of the soup is sometimes spoiled by using an iron
saucepan.
3081. — RICE WATER.
Ingredients. — 2 tablespoonfuls of rice, 1 tablespoonful of lemon or
orange juice, salt to taste, 1 quart of water.
Method. — Pick and wash the rice, put it into a jar with the water and
salt, cover closely, and cook in a slow oven from 3 to 3J hours. Strain,
flavour with lemon or orange juice, and serve either hot or cold.
Time. — From 3 to 3^ hours. Average Cost, i-Jd. Sufficient for 2 or 3
persons.
3082. — VEGETABLE SOUP. ( Fr . — Potage de Legumes.)
Ingredients. — 1 small vegetable marrow, 3 or 4 tomatoes, 1 small onion,
4 ozs. of rice, 2 ozs. of butter, 3 pints of water, pepper and salt.
Method. — Cut the marrow and tomatoes into small pieces, and slice
the onion finely. Melt the butter, fry the onion without browning,
then add the water and rice, previously washed and drained, boil for
10 minutes, add the vegetable marrow and tomatoes, season to taste,
cook gently until the vegetables are tender. Pass the soup through
a sieve, reheat, then serve.
Time. — \ an hour. Average Cost, 7d. to 8d. Sufficient for 5 or 6
persons.
RECIPES FOR VEGETARIAN COOKERY
1323-
3083. — WHITE SOUP. {Fr. — Potage Blanc.)
Ingredients. — 2 small onions, 1 turnip, 1 lb. of potatoes, 1 branch of celery,
2 small parsnips or artichokes, 3 pints of water, \ a pint of milk,
1 dessertspoonful of flour or cornflour, 1 oz. of butter, salt.
Method. — Cut about 2 lbs. weight of any white vegetables, previously
washed and peeled, into pieces, or preferably several kinds mixed,
and boil them until soft in the water with salt and butter. Rub
them through a sieve or colander, put them back in the stewpan with
the milk, and let it boil. Put in the flour, mixed smoothly with a
little cold water or milk, let the soup boil for 10 minutes, and serve
with dice of fried bread.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, sd. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Savoury Vegetable Dishes
3084. — ASPARAGUS SOUFFLE.
Ingredients. — 50 green asparagus heads, cooked and well drained, 2 ozs.
of butter, i-|- ozs. of flour, 2 ozs. of grated Parmesan cheese, 2 yolks
of eggs, 3 whites of eggs, -} a pint of milk, salt and pepper.
Method. — Heat the butter in a stewpan, stir in the flour, and add the
milk. Beat and cook the mixture over the fire until it leaves the
sides of the pan, then add the yolks of eggs, and a little salt and pepper.
Beat well, add the cheese, stir in the stiffly-whisked whites of eggs, and
lastly the asparagus heads, or the puree thereof. Turn into a well-buttered
souffle dish, and bake in a moderately hot oven for about 20 minutes.
Time. — To bake the souffle, about 20 minutes. Average Cost, 3s. 2d.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
3085. ARTICHOKE SALAD.
Ingredients. — Globe artichokes, a small quantity of finelv-chopped
onion and parsley, oil and vinegar.
Method. — Boil the artichokes until tender, and when cold cut them
into halves or quarters. Dish them neatly, and hand the onion,
parsley, oil and vinegar separately, or, if preferred, serve with Hollan-
daise or Vinaigrette sauce (Nos. 304 and 218).
Time. — To boil the artichokes, from 20 to 30 minutes. Average Cost,
4cl. to 6d. each. Allow half to each person.
3086. — BANANAS, FRIED. ( Fr . — Bananes Frites.)
Ingredients. — Bananas peeled, flour, oil or butter to fry.
Method. — Cut the bananas in pieces, and flour each, fry in butter
a light-brown in a frying-pan, drain well and serve with poached eggs,
the same as bacon and eggs would be served.
1324
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
3087. — BEANS, CURRIED. (Fr. — Haricots Blancs en
Kari.)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of haricot beans, \ a carrot, 1 apple, 1 onion,
a tablespoonful of oil or butter, 1 dessertspoonful of flour and curry
powder mixed, 4 of a pint of water, rice.
Method. — Cook the beans in a slow oven with water until they are
soft, and grate or chop the vegetables very fine. Heat up the oil, add
the vegetables, fry for 5 minutes, put in the flour and curry, and lastly
the water or an equal quantity of the liquor in which the beans were
boiled. Boil and thicken the stew, add the beans, make thoroughly
hot, and serve with a border of boiled rice. Or, press the rice into
a mould or into teacups, turn them into the middle of the dish, and
pour the beans round.
Time. — 1 hour. Average Cost, 4d. or 5d. Sufficient for 2 or 3 persons.
Note. — Peas and lentils may be cooked in the same way, or indeed any
kind of vegetable.
3088. — BEAN CROQUETTES. ( Fr . — Croquettes de
Haricots blancs.)
Ingredients.— Boiled beans, breadcrumbs, salt and pepper, onion, egg,
oil to fry.
Method. — Take some boiled haricot beans — any that are leftover from
a dish of the day before will do — mash them, add sufficient breadcrumbs
to make them stiff enough to mould, a little fried chopped onion,
pepper and salt. Shape them into balls or flat cakes, egg-and-bread-
crumb them, and fry in hot oil. Serve with some sauce, or brown gravy
poured round, and garnish with fried parsley. If peas are preferred,
the ordinary split peas can be used ; and if lentils, either the Egyptian
or the German : the latter, though dearer, are better. Parsley and
herbs, or lemon-rind, can be added if liked. The croquettes are best
eaten hot.
Time. — Altogether, \ an hour. Average Cost, 3d., exclusive of the
beans. Allow 2 to each person.
3089. — BEANS, POTTED.
Ingredients. — \ a pint of haricot beans, 2 ozs. of breadcrumbs, 2 ozs.
of strong cheese grated ; 2 ozs. of butter, cayenne, pepper and salt,
nutmeg to taste.
Method. — Bake the beans in a slow oven, pound them in a mortar,
adding gradually the other ingredients. Press the mixture into pots,
and run a little butter over the top, if it is to keep many days. Potted
beans make very good sandwiches with bread and butter. Store in a
cool, dry place, as all kinds of beans quickly ferment.
Time. — 1^ hours. Average Cost, 6d. Sufficient for 3 or 4 pots.
RECIPES FOR VEGETARIAN COOKERY
?325
3090. — BEANS AND TOMATOES.
Ingredients. — Baked or boiled haricot beans, 1 oz. of flour, \ an oz.
of butter, \ a pint of water in which the beans were cooked, 2 table-
spoonfuls of tomato sauce.
Method. — Strain the beans, thicken the liquor with flour or flour and
butter, add the tomato sauce, and let it boil. Put in the beans, and
serve hot.
Time. — \ an hour. Average Cost, 6d. Sufficient for 2 persons.
3091. — BREAD CUTLETS. (Fr. — Cotelettes au pain.)
Ingredients. — Slices of bread; milk, nutmeg, pepper, chopped parsley,
herbs and lemon-rind, egg and breadcrumbs, oil for frying.
Method. — Cut slices of bread of a suitable shape and about f of an
inch thick. Soak them in a little milk on a plate, but not sufficiently
long to cause them to break. Mix the parsley, herbs, lemon-rind,
spice and breadcrumbs. Break the egg on a plate, dip each slice into
it, and then in the crumbs, and fry at once in a frying-pan. Drain on
paper, and serve hot.
3092. — CARROT PUDDING. (Fr.— Pouding Crecy.)
Ingredients. — Boiled carrots, -} their bulk in breadcrumbs, 1 or 2
eggs, pepper and salt, 2 ozs. of butter, white sauce.
Method. — Boil some carrots until soft, chop them small or rub them
through a sieve, add the breadcrumbs and butter, and eggs sufficient
to bind the whole together, with seasoning to taste. If eggs are not
used, a couple of tablespoonfuls of flour and a little milk should be put
in. Butter the pudding-basin, put in the mixture, steam from 1 hour
to 1 \ hours, according to size, turn out the pudding, and serve it hot
with white sauce poured round the pudding.
Time. — To steam the pudding, from 1 to i-J- hours. Average Cost, yd.,
exclusive of the sauce. Sufficient for 2 persons.
Note. — This pudding can be made with other vegetables. Chopped turnips
or cauliflowers mixed with the carrot are excellent.
3093.— CROQUETTES OF HOMINY.
Ingredients. — 1 breakfastcupful of hominy, i£ pints of milk, 1 oz. of
butter, 2 eggs, salt, cayenne to taste, breadcrumbs, oil for frying.
Method. — Soak the hominy in water all night, and next morning
boil it in the milk till tender. Let it cool, add the butter, 1 egg, and
seasoning. When quite cold, shape it in balls, egg-and-breadcrumb
each, fry in a saucepan of oil, and serve with tomato or onion sauce.
Time. —To fry the croquettes, 5 minutes. Average Cost, 9d. to iod.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
1326 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
3094. — EGG SANDWICHES.
Ingredients. — Hard-boiled eggs, thin slices of either white or brown
bread and butter, cress or parsley.
Method. — Cut the eggs into thin slices, place them between slices of
bread and butter, trim off the crusts, and cut into triangles. Garnish
with tufts of cress or parsley.
Time. — To boil the eggs, from 10 to 12 minutes. Average Cast, id.
each. Allow 6 eggs for 4 or 5 persons.
3095. — EGGS AND TOMATOES (COLD).
Ingredients. — Fresh eggs, firm tomatoes, croutes of fried or toasted
bread, salt and pepper, salad.
Method. — Cut a slice off the end of each tomato, scoop out some of
the pulp, and season the inside of the tomatoes with salt and pepper.
Into each one carefully break an egg, put on the lids, and bake in a
moderately hot oven until the eggs are set. When cold, serve garnished
with salad.
Time. — From 10 to 15 minutes, to bake the tomatoes. Average Cost,
3^d. to 4b. each. Sufficient, allow 1 to each person.
3096. — FORCEMEAT FRITTERS.
Ingredients. — 8 ozs. of soft breadcrumbs, 3 ozs. of butter, 2 eggs, J of a
pint of cream, 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley, 1 teaspoonful of finely-
chopped leek or onion, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped or powdered
mixed herbs, 2 hard-boiled eggs sliced and fried in oil or butter, salt,
pepper.
Method. — Rub the butter into the breadcrumbs, add the parsley,
leeks, herbs, and a seasoning of salt and pepper. Stir in the eggs and
cream, shape into balls, and fry in hot butter or oil in a frying pan.
Serve garnished with the fried slices of egg, and add brown sauce and
red-currant jelly.
Time. — About ■} an hour. Average Cost, is. 2d. Sufficient for 3 or 4
persons.
3097. — GLOBE ARTICHOKES. (See Artichoke Salad,
No. 3085. Also Recipes Nos. 1435-1443.)
3098. — LAVER, TO DRESS.
Ingredients. — 1 or 2 pats of laver-weed, 1 oz. of butter, lemon juice,
salt, pepper, buttered toast.
Method. — -The laver-weed, a variety of seaweed found principally on
the South Wales coast, is collected at low tide, well washed in sea-
water, and afterwards boiled in slightly salted water. In winter it
RECIPES FOR VEGETARIAN COOKERY
1327
will be sufficiently cooked at the end of 2 or 3 hours, but in summer
a much longer time is needed. In this condition it is offered for sale
in pats. To prepare it for table, heat the butter in a stewpan, put in
the laver, stir over the fire until hot, then add lemon juice, salt and
pepper to taste, and serve on buttered toast. It is also added to sauce
served with game, venison or mutton.
Time. — To reheat, about 10 minutes. Average Cost. — 3d. or 4d. for
this quantity. Sufficient for 2 persons.
Laver (Fr. Veronique becalunga). — The name given to various kinds of seaweeds, especially to two
species of the red seaweeds or algae, Porphyra vulgaris and Porphyra laciniata. These plants, which
grow in the sea upon rocks and stones, are characterized by their thin, flat, purple fronds. Laver
is used as a food, salted and eaten with pepper, oil, vinegar, and also with lemon-juice ; it is some-
times stewed, and served in this form. Owing to the presence of iodine, laver is regarded as beneficial
in scrofulous diseases and glandular tumours. Green laver ( Ulva latissima) is similar in its medicinal
properties to the red laver ; it is prepared for eating in the same way, but is bitterish to the taste.
3099. — LENTILS, CURRIED.
Ingredients. — f of a pint of lentils, curry sauce made with vegetable
stock ( see No. 3071).
Method. — Soak the lentils in water for 12 hours, then drain them,
cover them with boiling water, and boil gently until tender. Make
the sauce as directed, drain and add the lentils, make thoroughly hot,
and serve.
Time. — About 3 hours. Average Cost, 4d. to 6d. Sufficient for 3 or 4
persons.
3100. — LENTIL RISSOLES. ( Fr . — Rissoles de Lentilles.)
Ingredients. — J of a lb. of lentils, boiled or baked, \ an oz. of butter,
pepper and salt, nutmeg, short crust or rough puff paste.
Method. — Cook the lentils until they are soft enough to mash, add
the butter and seasoning. They ought not to be very dry. Roll the
paste very thin, and cut it into rounds with a paste cutter or a
teacup. Into each round put a little of the lentil mixture, fold it up,
wet the edge, and stick it together. Egg-and-breadcrumb the rissoles,
and fry them in oil. Serve hot with fried parsley. Whole lentils
are the best to use for this purpose.
Time. — To fry the rissoles, 5 minutes. Average Cost, 3d. Sufficient
for 2 or 3 persons.
3101.— MACARONI AND CREAM.
Ingredients. — a lb. of macaroni, 2 ozs. of Gruyere cheese grated,
2 ozs. of Parmesan cheese grated, 2 ozs. of butter, -J- of a pint of cream,
salt and pepper, triangles of fried or toasted bread.
Method. — Break the macaroni into short lengths, throw them into
boiling salted water, and boil rapidly for 20 minutes, or until tender.
Heat the butter, drain and add the macaroni, stir in the cheese and
1328
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
cream, and season to taste. Make quite hot, and serve garnished
with sippets of bread.
Time. — About \ an hour. Average Cost, is. 3d. to is. 5d. Sufficient
for 2 or 3 persons.
3102. — MACARONI PUDDING.
Ingredients. — 6 ozs. of macaroni, £ of a lb. of bread, 1 teaspoonful
of parsley, \ a teaspoonful of mixed herbs, lemon-peel, spice, pepper
and salt, 3 ozs. of butter, 1 egg.
Method. — Parboil the macaroni, and with it line a pint basin previously
buttered. Soak the bread in cold water, squeeze it dry, and add the
rest of the ingredients with any macaroni that may be over, cut into
pieces. Fill the basin and press it down. Cover it with buttered
paper, and steam for i|- hours. Serve hot with white or brown sauce.
Time. — To steam the pudding, J hour. Average Cost, 6d. to yd.
Sufficient for 2 persons.
3103. — MACARONI AND TOMATOES.
Ingredients. — | a lb. of Naples macaroni, salt and water, \ an oz. of
flour, \ an oz. of butter, 3 tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce, 1 onion
stuck with 2 cloves.
Method. — Drop the macaroni into quickly boiling water, with salt
and the onion, and boil for \ an hour, or until tender, then drain the
water off. Melt the butter in a saucepan, add the flour and the water
(of which there should be about \ a pint), let it boil, add the tomato
sauce and the macaroni. When it is hot through it is ready to sei've.
The onion should be removed.
Time. — About 40 minutes. Average Cost, 5d. to 6d. Sufficient for 2
or 3 persons.
3104. _ macaroni and onion fritters.
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of onions, 2 ozs. of macaroni, 6 ozs. of bread-
crumbs, 3 eggs, and seasoning.
Method. — Stew the macaroni in water, and when tender, drain and
cut into small pieces, add the onions, boiled and chopped, the bread-
crumbs moistened with a little water, and the eggs well beaten; season
with pepper and salt and shape them ; next fry the shapes, and serve
with brown sauce.
Time. — Altogether, about 40 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. to yd.
Sufficient for 2 persons.
3105. — MOCK FISH PATTIES.
Ingredients. — Salsify, Bechamel sauce, puff paste cases ( see Oyster
Patties, No. 565), butter, lemon- juice, salt.
RECIPES FOR VEGETARIAN COOKERY
1329
Method. — Scrape and wash the salsify, cut them into small even-
sized pieces, throw them into boiling water, and add a little butter,
lemon-juice, and salt. Boil gently until tender, and then drain well.
Heat up in a little well-seasoned good white sauce. Have the pastry
cases ready, fill them with the preparation, re-heat, and serve.
Time. — To cook the salsify, from 25 to 30 minutes. Average Cost,
from i|-d. to 2d. each. Allow 1 to each person.
3106. - MOCK WHITE FISH.
Ingredients. — Salsify, milk, butter, flour, lemon-juice, butter, bread-
crumbs, salt and pepper.
Method. — Scrape the salsify, cut the roots into i-inch lengths, cover
them with lemon- juice, or white vinegar, and water, and let them
remain for 1 hour. Drain well, barely cover with boiling salted water,
cook gently until tender, then strain and preserve the liquor. Take
equal parts of liquor and milk ; to 1 pint allow 2 ozs. of butter and
i-J- ozs. of flour. Heat the butter, add the flour, stir and cook for a
few minutes without browning, and put in the mixed liquor and milk.
Stir until boiling, season to taste, and add a little lemon-juice. Place
the salsify in coquilles, cover with sauce, sprinkle thickly with bread-
crumbs, and add 2 or 3 small pieces of butter. Bake until the surface
is nicely browned, then serve.
Time. — To cook the salsify, from 25 to 30 minutes. Average Cost,
2d. to 3d. each. Allow 1 to each person.
3107. — MUSHROOM PATTIES (COLD).
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of mushrooms, 2 ozs. of butter, cream, or a little
milk thickened with cornflour, paste No. 1666, or 1668.
, Method. — Wash, peel the mushrooms, and cut them into dice. Heat
the butter, fry in it the prepared mushrooms for 10 minutes, then stir in
sufficient cream or thickened milk to thoroughly moisten the whole,
and season to taste and let cool. Have ready some patty-pans lined
with paste, fill them with the mixture, cover with paste, and bake in
a fairly hot oven for about j- an hour.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, is. 2d. to is. qd., exclusive
of the paste. Allow 1 or 2 for each person.
3108. — MUSHROOM PUDDING. (Fr. — Pouding aux
Champignons.)
Ingredients.— f of a lb. of flour, 6 ozs. of butter, 1 teaspoonful of baking-
powder, cold water, 1 quart of button or cup mushrooms, washed and
peeled, pepper and salt.
Method. — Make a crust with the flour, baking-powder, and 5 ozs. of
the butter. Line with it a greased pudding-basin, put in the mush-
1330
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
rooms with the remaining ounce of butter, pepper and salt, and
moisten with a little water. Finish off like a^beefsteak pudding. Boil
for i t hours or longer.
Time. — 2 hours. Average Cost, is. 6d. to is. 8d. Sufficient for 4 persons.
3109. — NUT SANDWICHES.
Ingredients. — Walnuts peeled and finely chopped, mayonnaise sauce,
cayenne or Krona pepper, thin slices of white or brown bread and
butter.
Method. — Moisten the nuts with a little mayonnaise sauce, spread
rather thickly on bread and butter, and sprinkle lightly with red
pepper. Cover with slices of bread and butter, trim off the crusts,
cut into triangles. Dish up and serve garnished with cress or parsley.
Time. — About an hour. Cost, about -J-d. per sandwich.
*
3110. — ONION PUDDING. (Fr. — Pouding aux
Oignons.)
Ingredients. — 8 ozs. of flour, 2 ozs. of breadcrumbs, 3 or 4 ozs. of
butter (1 tablespoonful of olive oil may be substituted), 1 teaspoonful
of baking powder, 1 saltspoonful of salt, water. For the mixture :
3 or 4 large mild onions, 2 tablespoonfuls of breadcrumbs, \ of a tea-
spoonful of sage, salt and pepper, 1 or 2 ozs. of butter.
Method. — Cut the peeled onions into small dice, place them in a
pie-dish with the breadcrumbs, butter, sage, and season with salt and
pepper, cover closely, and bake gently for 1 hour. Rub the butter
into the flour and breadcrumbs, add the baking powder and salt, and
sufficient water to form a rather stiff paste. Line a basin with the
paste, put in the mixture when cool, cover with paste, and afterwards
with 2 or 3 folds of greased paper, and steam for 2 hours. Serve in
the basin, and send brown sauce to table separately.
Time. — About 3J hours. Average Cost, is. Sufficient for 3 or 4
pei'sons.
31 1 1. — PLOVERS’ EGGS IN JELLY.
Ingredients. — 6 plovers’ eggs, 1 pint of vegetable stock, 3 an oz. of
vegetable isinglass, the stiffly- whisked whites and the crushed shells of
2 eggs.
Method. — Make the jelly as directed (see Aspic Jelly, No. 1980). Boil
the eggs hard, remove the shells, and let the eggs remain covered with
cold water until required. Line a border mould thinly with jelly (see
p. 985), decorate with cooked green peas and fancifully cut cooked
vegetables, put in the eggs, and fill the mould with cold liquid jelly.
Let it remain on ice until set. Dish up and serve garnished with salad.
Time. — 3 or 4 hours altogether. Average Cost, 3s. to 3s. 6d. Suffi-
cient for 5 or 6 persons.
RECIPES FOR VEGETARIAN COOKERY
J33I
3112. — POTATOES WITH CHEESE.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of boiled potatoes, 2 tablespoonfuls of milk, pepper
and salt, 3 ozs. of grated cheese, browned breadcrumbs, 1 oz. of butter.
Method. — Mash the potatoes while hot, add the milk, seasoning, half
the butter and cheese. Butter a pie-dish, strew the crumbs rather
thickly, put in the potatoes, and bake for -§■ an hour in a good oven.
Turn out, and serve hot.
Time. — To bake the pudding an hour. Average Cost, 3d. Sufficient
for 2 persons.
3113. — POTATO OMELET. ( Fv . — Omelette au
Pommes de terre.)
Ingredients. — 1 large potato, 4 eggs, 1 oz. of butter, lemon-juice,
nutmeg, salt and pepper.
Method. — Bake the potato in its skin, pass the mealy part through
a fine sieve, and mix with it the yolks of the eggs, a few drops of
lemon-juice, a pinch of nutmeg, and a little salt and pepper. Whisk
the whites stiffly, stir them lightly in, and fry the omelet in the hot
butter. If preferred, the omelet may be baked in the oven.
Time. — To fry the omelet, 4 or 5 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. to 8d.
Sufficient for 2 persons.
3114. — POTATO PIE.
Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of potatoes, 1 onion, 1 stick of celery, 1 oz. of
butter, 1 oz. of sago or tapioca, seasoning, short crust paste No.
1668 to cover, water or milk.
Method. — Slice the potatoes and the celery, fry the onion in the
butter and fill a pie-dish with these, sprinkling in the sago or tapioca,
and seasoning to taste. Fill up with water or milk, put on a cover of
paste, and bake in a good oven for 1 hour or more, according to size.
Time. — To bake the pie, about 1 hour. Average Cost, 7d., exclusive
of the paste. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
3115. — POTATO ROLLS.
Ingredients. — Pastry, potatoes, turnips, celery, onion, parsley, sweet
herbs, seasoning, 1 oz. of butter, short crust paste No. 1668.
Method. — Cut the potatoes into small pieces. To each lb. add 1 small
piece of turnip, 1 stick of celery, 1 small onion, chopped parsley,
herbs and seasoning to taste, and the butter. Roll out the paste to
the thickness of ^ of an inch, cut in rounds or squares 4 inches across,
fill each with the vegetables, fold it over like a turnover, and bake
about £ of an hour. Serve hot or cold.
Time. — To bake the rolls, £ of an hour. Average Cost, 3d. or 4d.,
exclusive of the paste. Sufficient for 6 or 8 rolls.
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
J332
3116. — POTATO SANDERS.
Ingredients. — Boiled potatoes, flour, salt, breadcrusts soaked in water,
chopped parsley and herbs, seasoning, \ an onion soaked in boiling
water.
Method. — Have the potatoes hot if possible, mash them and work in
sufficient flour to roll out, then cut it in squares. Squeeze the bread
dry, add the other ingredients, put a little in each square of paste,
and finish off like sausage rolls. Bake in a good oven for 20 minutes,
and serve hot.
Time. — To bake, about 20 minutes. Average Cost, -|d. each. Allow
2 or 3 to each person.
3117. — POTTED HARICOT BEANS (See Beans,
Potted, No. 3089).
3118. — RICE CROQUETTES AND CHEESE.
Ingredients. — 6 ozs. of rice, 1 pint of nnlk, 1 pint of water, 1 oz.
of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of grated cheese, 2 eggs, cayenne,- salt
and pepper, egg and breadcrumbs, frying-fat.
Method. — Cook the rice as directed in the following recipe, adding
the cheese at the same time as the eggs.
Time. — To cook the rice, from i-|- to 2 hours. Average Cost, is. Suffi-
cient for 5 or 6 persons.
3119. RICE CROQUETTES, SAVOURY.
Ingredients. — 6 ozs. of rice, 1 pint of milk (about), 1 pint of water,
1 oz. of butter. 1 dessertspoonful of finely-chopped onion, 1 teaspoonful
of finely-chopped parsley, 2 eggs, salt and pepper, eggs and bread-
crumbs, frying-fat.
Method. — Wash the rice, put it into a stewpan with a level teaspoonful
of salt, and add the onion, milk, and water. Boil gently until the rice
is tender, adding more milk if necessary ; but when ready no unab-
sorbed liquor should remain. Add the butter, parsley, 2 eggs, more
seasoning if necessary, and stir by the side of the fire for 10 minutes.
Let the preparation become cold, form it into cork-shaped pieces, and
coat them with egg and breadcrumbs. Fry in hot fat until nicely
browned, drain well, and serve garnished with crisply-fried parsley.
Time.- — To cook the rice, from il- to 2 hours. Average Cost, iod.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
3120. — RICE AU GRATIN.
Ingredients. — 6 ozs. of rice, £- of a pint of white sauce ( see Sauces,
No. 222), grated cheese, butter, cayenne, salt and pepper.
Method. — Wash the rice, throw it into a large saucepanful of rapidly-
boiling salted water, boil for 12 or 14 minutes, then drain, wash, and
RECIPES FOR VEGETARIAN COOKERY
-1333
dry thoroughly. Make the sauce as directed, and, as soon as the rice
is- thoroughly cooked and dry, add it to the rice, and season with salt
and pepper. Turn it into a shallow baking-dish, or several coquille
moulds, sprinkle the top thickly with grated cheese, add a few small
pieces of butter, bake in a quick oven until nicely browned, and serve.
Time. — To cook and dry the rice, about i|- hours. Average Cost, iod.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
3121. — RICE CROUSTADES.
Ingredients. — 8 ozs. of rice, 1 oz. of butter, 1 quart of water (milk
or stock may be substituted), salt and pepper, eggs, breadcrumbs,
frying-fat.
Method. — Pick and wash the rice, put it into a stewpan with the cold
water, add the butter and a seasoning of salt and pepper, and cook
gently until tender, adding more water if necessary, but the preparation
must be rather dry. Spread it on a tin or dish, making it not less than
i-|- inches in thickness, and, when cold, stamp out into rounds 2 inches
in diameter. Coat them with egg and breadcrumbs, fry in hot fat
until nicely browned, and drain well. When cool, remove the centre
from the top of each croustade by means of a ij-inch cutter, and scoop
out the greater part of the inside. Egg and crumb them and fry in hot
oil or butter. Fill the croustades with mushrooms or minced tomatoes,
cauliflower, peas or any other kind of suitable vegetable.
Time. — To cook the rice, from 1 to ij hours. Average Cost, 6d.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 croustades.
3122. — RICE CUTLETS.
Ingredients. — 4 tablespoonfuls of rice, 1 tablespoonful of finely-
chopped onion, 1 bay-leaf, \ a teaspoonful of finelv-powdered mixed
herbs, 1 oz. of butter, 3 eggs, breadcrumbs, salt and pepper, 1 quart of
milk, or equal parts of milk and vegetable stock, oil or butter for
frying.
Method. — Pick, wash and drain the rice, place it in a stewpan with
the onion, bay-leaf, herbs, a little salt and pepper, and simmer until
the milk is absorbed and the rice tender. When ready, stir in the
butter and 2 eggs, cook and stir the mixture by the side of the fire for
4 or 5 minutes, then turn on to a plate. Before it is quite cold form
into cutlets, coat with egg and breadcrumbs, and fry in butter or oil
until nicely browned.
Time. — 2\ hours. Average Cost, qd. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
3123. — RISOTTO.
Ingredients. — 1 teacupful (about 4 ozs.) of Carolina rice, 2 tablespoonfuls
of grated Parmesan cheese, 1 small onion finely chopped, 1 pint of
vegetable stock or water, salt and pepper, 2 ozs. of butter.
1334
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Wash and dry the rice thoroughly. Heat the butter, fry
the onion until lightly browned, then add the rice, and fry it until it
acquires a nice brown colour. Put in the stock or water, add salt and
pepper to taste, boil rapidly for io minutes, and afterwards simmer
slowly until the rice has absorbed all the liquid. Stir in the cheese,
add more seasoning if necessary, then serve. A little tomato puree or
tomato sauce may be added to vary the dish.
Time. — About hours. Average Cost, 6d. Sufficient for 2 or 3
persons.
3124. — SAVOURY RISSOLES.
Ingredients. — 6 tablespoonfuls of mashed potato, 2 tablespoonfuls of
breadcrumbs, 1 dessertspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 1 teaspoonful
of finely-chopped onion, 2 yolks of eggs, 1 whole egg and breadcrumbs,
butter or frying-fat, salt and pepper.
Method. — Mix the potato, breadcrumbs, parsley, onion , and a liberal
seasoning of salt and pepper well together, and moisten with the yolks of
eggs, adding a little milk if the mixture appears at all dry. Form into
round flat cakes, coat with egg and breadcrumbs, and fry in hot
butter or fat until nicely browned.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 6d. to 7d. Sufficient for 2
to 3 persons.
Note. — See Savoury Rice Rolls No. 2993 ; Vermicelli, Croquettes of, No. 2997 ;
and other vegetarian dishes included in Farinaceous Preparations, Chap-
ter XL.
3125. -SAVOURY LENTILS.
Ingredients. — 1 quart of lentils, 2 ozs. of butter, 1 dessertspoonful of
finely-chopped onion, x teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, a pint
of white sauce ( see Sauces, No. 222), salt and pepper.
Method. — Soak the lentils in tepid water for 3 hours, changing it
as it becomes cold. Melt half the butter in a stewpan, lightly fry
the onion and add the lentils, previously drained, then cover with
warm water, season with salt and pepper, and cook gently for about
2 hours. As soon as the lentils are tender, remove the lid ; when
the water has evaporated allow the lentils to dry, add the rest of the
butter, the white sauce and the parsley, season to taste, toss over the
fire until thoroughly hot. Dish up and serve.
Time. — 6 hours. Average Cost, 7d. or 8d., exclusive of the sauce.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
3126. — SAVOURY RICE.
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of rice, 1 small onion, 3 tablespoonfuls of grated
cheese, 3 tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce, a dessertspoonful of chopped
parsley and herbs, cayenne and salt, 2 ozs. of butter.
RECIPES FOR VEGETARIAN COOKERY
- 1335
Method. — Boil the rice in water with the onion chopped finely.
When tender and nearly dry, stir in the other ingredients. The rice
should be firm enough to make a mound on the dish. Serve hot.
Time. — About \ an hour. Average Cost, 6d. to yd. Sufficient for 3 or
4 persons.
3127. — SAVOURY SEMOLINA.
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of semolina, 2 ozs. of grated cheese, 2 ozs. of
butter, 1 teaspoonful of made mustard, pepper and salt, cayenne,
breadcrumbs, 1 quart of milk.
Method. — Boil up the milk, sprinkle in the semolina, stir and cook for
15 minutes, then add the cheese, butter, mustard and pepper, salt
and cayenne to taste. Turn into a buttered gratin dish, or several
china scallop shells, sprinkle liberally with breadcrumbs and cheese,
and add a few very small pieces of butter. Brown in a hot oven,
and serve.
Time. — About \ an hour. Average Cost, qd. to iod. Sufficient for
3 or 4 persons.
3128. — SCOTCH STEW.
Ingredients. — 3 tablespoonfuls of pearl barley, -V a small cabbage or 1
lettuce shredded, l a head of celery, 3 onions, 2 carrots, 1 turnip, all
cut into large pieces, to which may be added other vegetables in
season, salt and pepper to taste.
Method. — Blanch the pearl barley, cover it with fresh water, and
simmer gently for an hour. Place all the vegetables, except the cabbage
or lettuce, in a stewpan, add the pearl barley and the water in which it
was cooked, together with boiling water to barely cover the whole,
and season to taste. Boil gently until the vegetables are nearly done,
then add the shredded cabbage or lettuce, cook for 10 minutes longer,
and serve.
Time. — About 3 hours. Average Cost, yd. or 8d. Sufficient for 2 or 3
persons.
3129.— SPAGHETTI.
Ingredients. — -} a lb. of spaghetti, 1 oz. of butter, 2 ozs. of grated cheese,
-J of a pint of white or tomato sauce ( see Sauces, Nos. 223-281),
nutmeg, cayenne, salt and pepper.
Method. — Put the spaghetti into boiling salted water, cook rapidly for
about 20 minutes, or until tender, and drain well. Stir in the butter,
cheese and sauce, add nutmeg, cayenne, salt and pepper to taste, and
mix well. The spaghetti may be served in this condition, or, when
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1336
white sauce is used, it may be browned in the oven in a shallow baking-
dish, or china scallop shells.
Time. — About 30 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. to ?d. Sufficient
for 3 or 4 persons.
3130. — TOMATO AND ONION PIE.
Ingredients. — 2 Spanish onions, 2 lbs. of firm tomatoes, breadcrumbs,
butter and seasoning.
Method. — Peel the onions, cover them with boiling water, let them
remain for at least 2 hours, then drain and dry thoroughly, and cut
them into slices. Heat up 1 oz. of butter in a frying-pan, and fry the
onions until lightly browned. Slice the tomatoes, place them in alter-
nate layers with the onion into a buttered pie-dish, sprinkling each
layer lightly* with salt and pepper, and liberally with breadcrumbs.
Cover the whole with a good layer of breadcrumbs, add a few small
pieces of butter, and bake in a moderately hot oven for about 1 hour.
Time. — Altogether, 4 hours. Average Cost, is. 6d. to is. 9d. Suffi-
cient for 4 or 5 persons.
3131. — VEGETABLE GOOSE.
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of breadcrumbs soaked in cold water, 1 onion.
1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley and herbs, 1 oz. of butter, pepper and
salt.
Method. — Squeeze the bread nearly dry, and mash it, mix in the other
ingredients, chopped small. Butter a Yorkshire pudding-dish, put
in the mixture, and bake in a good oven for about f- hour. Serve hot,
and cut in squares.
Time. — About i3 hours. Average Cost, 3d. Sufficient for 2 persons.
21^2. — VEGETABLE MARROW, STUFFED.
Ingredients. — 1 vegetable marrow. For the forcemeat : 3 or 4 table-
spoonfuls of coarsely-chopped mushrooms, 1 tablespoonful of bread-
crumbs, 1 oz. of butter, salt and pepper.
Method. — Peel the marrow, cut it in half lengthwise, and remove
the seeds. Heat the butter, fry the mushrooms lightly, add the
breadcrumbs, and season to taste. Place the hot forcemeat inside
the marrow, replace the halves, and fasten them securely with string.
Cover with seasoned boiling water, and boil gently for about 20
minutes, or place the preparation in a covered pie-dish with a small
quantity of hot water, and bake slowly for £ an hour. Serve with
white or brown sauce.
Time.— 45 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. to 8d. Sufficient for 3 persons.
Note. Marrows may also be stuffed with onion or veal forcemeat.
RECIPES FOR VEGETARIAN COOKERY
*3 37
3133. — VEGETABLE PIE.
Ingredients. — 1 onion, 1 carrot, 1 stick of celery, a handful of green
peas, \ an oz. of sago or tapioca, 1 oz. of butter, pepper and salt, a
teaspoonful of flour, short crust paste No. 1668 to cover.
Method. — Stew all the above ingredients together in a very little water
until they are three parts cooked. They should be cut into small
pieces. Then place them in a pie-dish, cover it with a crust like a
meat pie, and bake it until the crust is done. The pie may be made
of any vegetables that are in season. A few mushrooms or some
mushroom powder are an improvement.
Time. — To bake the pie, about \ an hour. Average Cost, 3d. or 4d.,
exclusive of the paste. Sufficient for 2 persons.
3134. — VEGETABLE PIE. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of boiled macaroni, 3 hard boiled eggs, veal
forcemeat made with oil or butter instead of suet, 1 or 2 tomatoes.
Method. — Prepare and slice the eggs and tomatoes, cut the macaroni
into pieces, fill into a pie-dish, season well, and finish same as meat
pie. Bake until the crust is done.
Time. — To bake the pie, about \ an hour. Average Cost, 8d. to iod.,
exclusive of the paste. Sufficient for 2 or 3 persons.
3135.— WHEATMEAL DUMPLINGS. (See Wholemeal
Bread, Fermented, No. 3316, and Norfolk
Dumplings, No. 1879.)
Form small pieces of dough (wholemeal or ordinary bread dough)
into dumplings, cook them as directed for Norfolk dumplings, and
serve with cream and sugar, golden syrup or jam.
Sauces
3136.- BROWN GRAVY.
Ingredients. — 2 onions, 1 tablespoonful of flour, f of a pint of hot
water, seasoning, 1 oz. of butter or a tablespoonful of oil.
Method. — Chop the onions, fry them brown in the butter, add the
flour, which must also brown. Pour in the water, and stir until the
mixture thickens, then season it to taste. Any kind of vegetable
stock is preferable to water.
1338 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
3137.— BROWN GRAVY. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 1 onion, \ a carrot, \ a turnip, parsley, herbs, and bay
leaf, 1 oz. of butter, 1 pint of water, 1 dessertspoonful of vinegar, a
lump of sugar, spice, a teaspoonful of ketchup or other condiment sauce.
Method. — Fry the chopped vegetables in the butter until they are
dark brown ; add the flour and water, and stir until the mixture boils;
then put in the parsley, herbs, vinegar, sugar, spice and seasoning to
taste. Simmer by the side of the fire for about 1 hour, strain, and add
the ketchup.
Time. — About ij hours. Average Cost, 3d. Sufficient for \ pint of
gravy.
3138.— SHARP SAUCE.
Ingredients. — Salad-oil, 1 onion, 1 tomato, 3 mushrooms, 1 oz. of flour,
f of a pint of water, vinegar, sweet herbs, pepper and salt, nutmeg.
Method. — Put in a saucepan 2 tablespoonfuls of oil with the onion,
tomato, and mushrooms, all very finely chopped. When nicely
browned add the flour, and let it brown also, then of a pint of water
or vegetable stock, and stir the mixture till it boils. Put in 2 table-
spoonfuls of vinegar and a few sweet herbs. Simmer for a few minutes;
strain and serve.
Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, 3d.
3139-— TOMATO sauce.
Ingredients. — 6 ripe tomatoes, pepper and salt, water.
Method. — Put the tomatoes in just enough water to prevent their
burning, and cook them till soft, either in the oven or over the fire.
Rub them through a sieve, then reheat the puree, and add a very
little sugar, also salt and pepper to taste.
Time. — \ an hour. Average Cost, 6d.
3140. — TOMATO SAUCE. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 4 or 6 tomatoes, \ an oz. of butter, an oz. of flour,
£ a pint of water, seasoning.
Method. — Prepare the tomatoes as in the preceding recipe, or peel
and quarter them, removing the core and pips before they are cooked.
Make J of a pint of melted butter with the above ingredients, add the
tomatoes and the seasoning, give the mixture one boil, and serve.
Some persons like to add a flavour of onion, which should be cooked
with the tomato and then removed.
Time. — \ an hour. Average Cost, 6d. to 8d.
RECIPES FOR VEGETARIAN COOKERY
1339
3141. - WALNUT GRAVY.
Ingredients. — \ a pint of vegetable stock, No. 8, 2 tablespoonfuls of
walnut ketchup, salt and pepper.
Method. — Make the stock as directed, strain, season to taste, add the
walnut ketchup, and serve. The colour may be improved by the
addition of a few drops of caramel.
Time. — Altogether, 1 hour. Average Cost, ikl. to 2d.
3142. - WALNUT SAUCE.
Ingredients. — 2 ozs. of butter, i-J- ozs. of flour, 1 pint of vegetable stock,
No. 8, 2 pickled walnuts coarsely chopped, 2 tablespoonfuls of walnut
ketchup, salt and pepper.
Method. —Melt the butter, fry in it the flour gently until well browned,
and pour in the stock. Stir and boil gently for 10 minutes, then
season to taste, add the walnuts and walnut ketchup, and serve. A
few drops of caramel may be added to improve the colour.
Time. — From 30 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, 4d. to 5d.
3143. — WHITE SAUCE FOR PUDDINGS.
Ingredients. — 1 lemon, 1 teaspoonful of cornflour, 2 tablespoonfuls
of milk, \ a pint of water, 1 teaspoonful of white sugar.
Method. — Peel the lemon thinly, boil the lemon-rind in the water,
mix the cornflour with the milk to a smooth paste, and pour on the
boiling water. Put it back in the saucepan with the sugar, and let
it boil for 10 minutes ; add the lemon-juice, and serve.
Time. — 15 minutes. Average Cost, 2|-d.
Farinaceous Foods
3144.— GRISSINI STICKS.
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of fine flour, 2 ozs. of butter, 2 whites of egg,
1 yolk of egg, freezing-salt, milk, salt, cayenne.
Method. — Sieve the flour on to a board, make a well in the centre,
add the butter previously creamed until soft and smooth, the well-
beaten whites and yolk of egg, a good pinch of salt, and a little cayenne.
Work it into a smooth paste, roll out rather thickly, and cut into narrow
strips, which must afterwards be rolled with the hand into a round form.
Cut the sticks about 4 inches long, brush them over with milk, sprinkle
with coarse freezing-salt, and bake for 'about 10 minutes in a quick
oven. Before s erving, tie them in small bundles with coloured ribbon.
If preferred, these sticks, which are also called “ salt sticks,” may be
1340
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
made from firm Vienna bread dough, which is rolled out, and com-
pleted as described above.
Average Cost. — 6d. or yd. Sufficient for about 30 sticks.
3145.— HOMINY PORRIDGE.
Ingredients. — Hominy, water, a piece of butter.
Method. — Pour boiling water on the hominy over night, and let it
stand until morning. Then add more water if necessary, and boil
for at least \ an hour. Stir in the butter just before serving.
Time. — \ an hour. Average Cost, 2d. or 3d. Sufficient for 2 persons.
Note. — Hominy is the inner part of the maize and bears about the same
relation to maize-meal that coarsely -ground flour does to whole wheat meal.
It is not so nourishing, but being less oily it keeps well, and has not the char-
acteristic flavour of maize-meal, which is unpleasant to some persons.
3146. — HOMINY FRITTERS.
Ingredients. — Cold hominy porridge, fat to fry, flour.
Method. — Cut the cold porridge into slices, about 1 inch thick, flour
them lightly on both sides, and fry in a frying-pan with butter or oil.
Serve hot.
Time. — 10 minutes. Average Cost, uncertain.
3147. — LENTIL PORRIDGE.
Ingredients. — 3 ozs. of lentil flour, 1 pint of water, salt, butter.
Method. — Put the flour and salt in a basin, with a little cold water,
add the rest of the water boiling, put it on the fire, and boil for 20
minutes. Stir in the butter just before serving. Half lentil and half
barley or wheat-flour is preferred by some, and makes a close imitation
of the Revalenta Arabica, so much advertised for invalids.
Time. — 10 minutes. Average Cost, i-Jd. Sufficient for 2 persons.
3148. — MAIZE MEAL PORRIDGE, POLENTA, OR
MUSH.
Ingredients. — Indian meal, salt, water.
Method. — Boil the water, sprinkle in the Indian meal with one hand,
and stir it with a wooden spoon or spatula. Boil for about 10 minutes.
Stir in a piece of butter, and serve hot.
Time. — 10 minutes. Average Cost, 2d. or 3d. Sufficient for 2 persons.
Note. — Both yellow and white maize is sold. The yellow, known as
polenta in Italy, is the richest in mineral matter and in fat. It must be used
quickly or kept in a covered tin, as it very soon absorbs moisture from the
air and turns bitter. Maize meal is also sold in packets steam-dried and
partially cooked.
RECIPES FOR VEGETARIAN COOKERY 1341
3149. — OATMEAL PORRIDGE.
Ingredients. — Oatmeal, salt, water.
Method. — There are several ways of making porridge. The one
generally adopted— although by no means the best — is to sprinkle
the oatmeal into boiling, slightly salted water with the left hand,
meanwhile stirring briskly with a wooden spoon or wooden spatula.
When the porridge is thick enough, the stewpan is drawn to, the side
of the fire, and the contents, slowly cooked from 20 to 30 minutes,
being occasionally stirred to prevent it sticking to the bottom of the
pan. A better method is to soak 4 oz. of oatmeal in i-|- pints of cold
water overnight, and in the morning strain the water into a stewpan,
and when boiling add the oatmeal, and salt to taste. Twenty minutes’
gentle simmering will sufficiently cook it, and it must be well stirred
during the process. Probably the best plan of all is to use a water-
jacketed saucepan for making porridge, for it is always desirable to
have oatmeal thoroughly cooked, and as the water in the outer pan
obviates the necessity of frequent stirring, the porridge may, with
little trouble, be cooked for 2 or 3 hours on the previous day, and re-
heated when required ; a pinch of salt should always be added to the
porridge. There are 3 varieties of oatmeal — coarse, medium, and
fine; any kind may be used for making porridge, but coarse oatmeal
is generally preferred.
3150. — OATMEAL SCONES.
Ingredients. — Cold oatmeal porridge, flour.
Method. — Into the cold porridge knead as much flour as will enable
it to be rolled out f- of an inch thick. Cut in 3-cornered pieces, and bake
on a greased griddle or in the oven. Serve hot, split, and buttered.
Time. — To bake, from 20 to 25 minutes. Average Cost, uncertain.
3151. — PEASE BROSE.
Ingredients. — Prepare and cook as maize meal porridge, No. 3148, using
about 2 tablespoonfuls of pease meal, rather less than \ a pint of
water, 1 oz. of butter, and salt.
3152. - PEA FRITTERS.
Ingredients. — Cold brose, or lentil porridge, breadcrumbs, herbs, onions,
seasoning, flour, frying-fat.
Method.- -Mix with the cold porridge * about its own bulk in
breadcrumbs. Add a little chopped onion and sweet herbs, and
seasoning to taste. Shape the preparation into flat cakes, flour them,
and fry a nice brown in the frying-pan.
Time. — 10 minutes Average Cost, uncertain.
1342
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
3153. — POLENTA AND CHEESE.
Ingredients. — Cold maize-meal porridge, butter or oil, grated cheese,
salt and cayenne.
Method. — Cut the cold polenta into square or oblong pieces about
f of an inch thick. Arrange them on a flat dish, or a pie-dish, in layers,
with grated cheese between and over the top. Put a few pieces of
butter over, and bake till brown in a good oven. Serve hot.
Time. — 4 an hour. Average Cost, uncertain.
3154. — WHEAT-MEAL PORRIDGE.
Ingredients. — Wheat meal coarsely-ground, water.
Method. — Proceed as directed for Oatmeal, No. 3149.
Puddings and Pastry
It is unnecessary to repeat any recipes for butter pastry. All those
in the chapter on puddings and pastry are suitable.
Nor is there any difficulty in selecting puddings made from vegetable
products. The only peculiarity that might be said to belong to vege-
tarian puddings, as a class, is that they are more solid and satisfying
than puddings that are often thrown in as a luxury, rather than as a
food, at the end of a repast of meat.
In strict vegetarian cookery suet is replaced by one of the nut butters,
now so plentiful on the market. In Italy and Corsica a flour made
from dried chestnuts is much used. It is of a dark-brown colour, and
richly nitrogenous. Carefully used, it makes excellent puddings and
cakes.
3155. — GINGERBREAD PUDDING.
Ingredients. — 4 a lb. of flour, \ a lb. of treacle, 2 ozs. of butter, 1 tea-
spoonful of baking-powder, \ a teaspoonful of ground ginger, 1 egg, salt.
Method. — Mix the baking-powder and ginger with the flour, rub in
the butter, add the treacle and the egg, well beaten, and mix all to-
gether; flour a pudding cloth, put in the mixture, and boil for 1 4 hours.
Serve with butter sauce.
Time. — 2 hours. Average Cost, 6d. to 7b. Sufficient for 2 or 3 persons.
3156. — MINCE-MEAT.
Ingredients. — 6 lemons, \ a lb. of apples, 1 lb. of raisins, weighed
when picked and stoned; 1 lb. of currants, 1 lb. of sugar, 4 a lb. of fresh
butter, 2 ozs. of candied citron, 2 ozs. of candied orange, 14 salt-
RECIPES FOR VEGETARIAN COOKERY 1343
spoonfuls of cayenne, 1 teaspoonful of mace, one teaspoonful of
cinnamon, almond essence.
Method. — Grate off the lemon-rind, cut the lemons in two, and squeeze
out the juice, boil the rinds in spring water till tender, but not soft,
changing the water 4 or 5 times to take out the bitterness, and putting
a large teaspoonful of salt in the water in which they are first boiled.
When done, drain the water from them, and take out the seeds and inner
skins, then chop them with the raisins in a wooden bowl; when finely-
chopped add the currants, sugar, and apples (previously prepared as
for sauce), the grated rind of the lemons, the juice, \ a saltspoonful
of cayenne pepper, a small teaspoonful of mace, a small teaspoonful of
cinnamon, 12 or 15 drops of almond flavour, the candied orange and
citron cut in thin slices, and lastly, the butter melted and stirred well in.
Average Cost. — 2s. 2d.
3157. PASTRY WITHOUT BUTTER.
Ingredients.- — 1 lb. of flour, 1 teaspoonful of baking-powder, a small
wineglassful of salad-oil, water.
Method. — Mix the flour and baking-powder. Add the oil to cold
water, and stir the paste to a proper consistency for rolling. Fold it
over and roll it out 2 or 3 times, place on a baking tin, and bake
immediately.
3158.— PLUM PUDDING. (Fr.— Pouding de Noel.)
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of flour, \ a lb. of currants, \ a lb. of sultanas,
4 ozs. of butter, 3 eggs, the grated rind of a lemon, nutmeg, 1 tea-
spoonful of baking-powder.
Method. — Mix the powder with the flour, rub in the butter, and add
the currants and raisins, the lemon-peel finely grated, a little nutmeg,
and the eggs well beaten. Put it in a buttered basin, boil or steam
for 4 hours, and serve with white sauce.
Time. — 5 hours. Average Cost, is. 2d. Sufficient for 1 large pudding.
Note. — The foregoing recipes are based on strict vegetarian principles.
Vegetarians whose diet includes milk and eggs will find many useful dishes
among the recipes for Vegetables in Chapter XXX. See Asparagus, French
Style, No. 1446; Asparagus with Eggs, No. 1445 ; Asparagus Rolls, No. 1450;
Broad Beans with Spanish Sauce, No. 1458 ; Ragout of Celery, No. 1490;
Stuffed Cucumbers, No. 1505; Cucumbers with Eggs, No. 1501; Leeks with
Poached Eggs No. 1522.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS
ON INVALID COOKERY
CHAPTER XLIV
Diet of the Sick. — It is not possible to lay down universal laws on the
diet of sick persons. Given any two persons suffering from disease,
the temperament, the disease, and the needs of the one may be entirely
different from those of the other. One may be in danger of collapse
from weakness; another may be in a high fever. One may need to make
blood and regain strength, the other may be suffering from a lifetime of
overfeeding and underwork. It is evident that to feed all these people
alike would be ridiculous. What suits some patients might injure
others. There are besides many persons hopelessly ill, for whom food
and physic can do no more than keep them alive with the least possible
discomfort. One can only make the food pleasant to the eye and taste,
and easily digestible, remembering always, that in the course of any
long illness the human machine is so worn that the least extra strain
may stop its working altogether. It is with such cases as these that the
art of sick-room cookery is of most avail.
Roughly speaking, the fundamental idea of sick-room diet is (i) to
select food that will provide the necessary nourishment, and will not
strain any digestive organs that may be affected ; (2) to compensate
for any waste or drain upon the system. Untrained persons often
have a superstitious faith in the cravings of the sick, and will disobey
the doctor to gratify the patient. If a doctor knows his business, he
ought to be trusted and obeyed. But it is well known that even in
health people crave for and obtain things to eat and drink that do them
harm. Why should a diseased appetite be more dependable than a
healthy one?
In some cases (notably after fever) the patient develops a surprising
appetite, which, in the state of his digestive organs, it would be dan-
gerous to gratify, while other patients will actually sink from
exhaustion while refusing all food.
Overfeeding gives no Strength. — Nothing is more common than to
find some such reasoning as this: “ All invalids are more or less weak;
weakness is to be cured by food; all persons in poor health should be
persuaded or coerced into taking as much food as possible.” It is
1344
INVALID COOKERY,
1. — Scrambled Egg and Chicken Cream. 3- — Quenelles of Chicken, with Peas and Fruit jelly
2. — Fillets of Sole and Lemon Cream. 4.— Plain Omelet, Mutton Cutlets, and Cauliflower.
INVALID COOKERY
1345
forgotten that not what a man swallows feeds him, but what he is able
to digest and assimilate out of what he swallows. To overload feeble
digestive organs is the surest way of preventing them from doing
even as much work as they could do if they were allowed to work
quietly. Again, a little wise starvation is Nature’s cure, and the best
for many complaints.
Diet as a Cure. — There are not a few diseases where the only hope of
cure or alleviation lies in rigid abstention from some sorts of food.
Diet can often cure where drugs are useless or worse.
Food or Physic ? — Many well known remedies are thought to be physic
because they are prescribed by the doctor and sold by the chemist,
but they are, in reality, foods. The best example is cod-liver oil,
the most digestible of all fats, given often to consumptive and other
persons, who either cannot take other fats, or who do not like any fat,
and will not force themselves to swallow fat food as they do to take
fat physic. Cream, or any other fat, if it is digested, answers the same
purpose as oil.
Certain Rules apply to all sick-room feeding. Give little food and
often. It is a mistake to persuade a patient to swallow large quantities
at once. What is eaten willingly and with relish does more good than
double the amount swallowed with disgust. At the same time, it must
be remembered that when people are very ill they will often refuse to
swallow anything, though they are actually sinking for want of food.
Let the food come at stated times, and punctually. A very weak
patient faints and flags if the hour is stretched to an hour and a quarter.
A convalescent looks forward to meals as the great event of the day,
and frets and worries if they do not come to time. As a rule, a patient
should not be awakened to be fed, though it may sometimes be
necessary. Amateur nurses often forget to feed in the small hours of the
morning, when the patient’s strength is always at the lowest ebb. If
obliged to wait a long time the patient loses the desire to eat, and often
turns against the food when brought.
When there is no appetite, give such food as affords most nourish-
ment for the least wrork, either to the digestive organs or to the teeth.
If the patient is very weak the exertion of eating, even without mastica-
tion, is already very severe. Put the greatest amount of nourishment
into the smallest space; and let the food be already divided.
Let such work of digestion as there must be fall on the part of the
patient that is best able to bear it, as to which the doctor should be the
best judge.
Only just so much as the patient is likely to eat should be taken
into the sick-room, and what remains should be at once removed.
Never keep any food standing by the bedside. Never leave food about
a sick-room ; if the patient cannot eat it when brought to him, take
it away, and bring it to him in an hour or two’s time. Miss Nightingale
says : “ To leave the patient’s untasted food by his side from meal to
X X
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1346
meal, in hopes that he will eat it in the interval, is simply to prevent
him from taking food at all. I have known patients literally incapa-
citated from taking one article of food after another by this piece
of ignorance. Let the food come at the right time and be taken away,
eaten or uneaten, at the right time ; but never let the patient have
‘ something always standing ’ by him, if you don’t wish to disgust him
with everything.”
In a case of infectious fever, all remains of food should at once be
burnt, and on no account eaten by another person. The nurse should
not take her meals in the sick-room.
For a convalescent the food should be as varied as possible. In the
monotonous existence of the sick-room small events appear great.
For invalids, never make a large quantity of one thing, as they
seldom require much at a time. Because a patient once likes a food,
do not repeat it till he is tired of its very name.
If the food may not be varied, the mode of serving may. A stray
flower, or a new patterned plate, is better than no variety at all. Let
everything look as tempting as possible. Have a clean tray-cloth
laid smoothly over the tray ; let the spoons, tumblers, cups and saucers,
etc., be very clean and bright. Gruel served in a tumbler is more
appetising than when served in a basin, or cup and saucer. Do not
put a very little broth in the bottom of a very large basin. Let all
kitchen utensils used in the preparation of invalid’s cookery be scrupu-
lously clean; if this is not the case, a disagreeable flavour may be im-
parted to the preparation, which flavour may disgust and prevent the
patient from partaking of the refreshment when brought to him or her.
Invalids notice flavour more than people in health. It is generally
better to cook in earthenware, glass or china, than in metal.
In Miss Nightingale’s admirable “ Notes on Nursing,” she says : “ You
cannot be too careful as to quality in sick diet. A nurse should never put
before a patient milk that is sour, meat or soup that is turned, an egg that
is bad, or vegetables underdone.” Yet often, she says, she has seen these
things brought in to the sick, in a state perfectly perceptible to every
nose or eye except the nurse’s. It is here that the clever nurse appears —
she will not bring the peccant article; but, not to disappoint the patient,
she will whip up something else in a few minutes. Remember that
sick cookery should half do the work of your poor patient’s weak
digestion. She goes on to caution nurses by saying: “ Take care not
to spill into your patient’s saucer; in other words, take care that the
outside bottom rim of his cup shall be quite dry and clean. If every
time he lifts his cup to his lips he has to carry the saucer with it, or
else to drop the liquid upon and to soil his sheet, or bedgown or pillow,
or, if he is sitting up, his dress, you have no idea what a difference this
minute want of care on your part makes to his comfort, and even to
liis willingness for food.”
Crumbs are great enemies to the patient’s comfort, and even with the
INVALID COOKERY
1347
greatest care they are difficult to keep out of the bed. Tuck a table-
napkin carefully round the patient’s shoulders before each time of
feeding.
If a feeding cup is used, scald it carefully and keep it quite clean.
Warm it before using it for any hot food. Keep one for milk, and lay
that in water. Have a separate cup for beef tea or broth.
No cooking may be done in the sick-room.
In Acute Disease, the diet is often limited to milk and beef tea. Inex-
perienced persons imagine that every liquid food is insufficient nourish-
ment, and that the patient should be persuaded to take some solid.
So far from this being true, milk is the best of all foods, the only food
we could live on for a length of time without admixture of anything
else. A patient who can take milk has at once a greater chance of
prolonging life or recovering health.
But there are some persons who cannot take milk, in health or
sickness. They will *>ften find it agrees with them better mixed with
limewater, a third or half of water to two-thirds or half of milk. Soda-
water and milk is agreeable to some patients, and to some boiled milk
is more digestible, especially boiled milk hot. Only in rare cases
should the cream be removed. Whey has been found useful when
every preparaton of fresh milk has been tried in vain. Koumiss or
fermented milk is also sold in considerable quantities for the use of
invalids.
Sickness and Nausea. — If the patient suffers from sickness and nausea,
every food should be given iced, or as cold as possible, and in the
smallest quantities, and it is a good plan to slip a tiny piece of ice
into the patient’s mouth immediately after taking food. Milk may be
kept on ice for a long time, or, if no ice is at hand, set the jug in a tub
of salt and water, or wrap a wet cloth round the jug and stand it in a
draught outside the door. The slightest souring is enough to make milk
disagree with a patient.
Cooking Apparatus. — In keeping anything hot in the sick-room a
specially-constructed cooking apparatus is very useful. It is a box
thickly padded with non-conducting material, and containing a double
tin receptacle, the outer for hot water, and the inner for beef tea, or
whatever has to be cooked or kept hot. The tin is filled with hot water,
and retains the heat for many hours without evaporation, or giving out
any smell.
Beef Tea. — Formerly, beef tea was regarded as the patient’s greatest
support, but now many doctors have ceased to attach much importance
to it, largely owing to the difficulty of getting it properly prepared.
This difficulty ought not to exist, for it is quite easy to make if the few
simple rules set forth in the following recipes are strictly adhered to.
There is a wide difference in beef tea for invalids and that intended
for convalescents, the former being necessarily prepared from juicy
meat and at a low temperature, so as to first draw out the juices of the
1348
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
meat and afterwards prevent them coagulating. A more savoury and
palatable preparation is the convalescents’ beef-tea, usually made by
subjecting either shin or neck of beef to a long, slow stewing process.
In the preparation of beef-tea for invalids, juicy meat, such as
buttock steaks, or top-side alone should be employed, for these parts
contain the most albumen and other soluble matters, which are the
nourishing constituents of the meat. Beef-tea that sets to a jelly when
cold contains a smaller percentage of these constituents; and more gela-
tine, of which the shin of beef has a comparatively large proportion.
Although gelatine possesses neither the stimulating nor nourishing
properties of albumen, it has considerable value as a food substance,
inasmuch as it replaces albumen in many processes in the human
economy, but it is altogether unsuitable when a concentrated, nourish-
ing liquid food is required.
Albumen, which is the life-sustaining element in the meat, is very
like white of egg in its properties. White of egg will mix freely with
water, as also will the juices of the meat when extracted by means
of cold water. This water may be gently heated, and the albumen will
still remain in solution, but when heated to about 120° or 130° F. the
albumen coagulates and separates into brown particles, which are
strained out of the beef-tea, the almost valueless liquid being given to the
patient.
Meat Juices and Extracts. — These may be bought ready prepared;
some contain little more than the salines and extractives of the meat;
others may be regarded as a valuable stimulant and restorative, easily
prepared and always at hand, but in serious cases none of them can
replace beef-tea containing soluble albumen.
Fluid meat consists of lean meat liquified by artificial digestion,
and in a fit state for immediate absorption into the body. In severe
illness it is a most valuable food, and is also used for nutrient enemata.
Dr. Pavy recommends the following mixture when used for this purpose:
2 ozs. of white sugar, 6 ozs. of mucilage of starch or arrowroot, with 2
tablespoonfuls of fluid meat.
Beef peptonoids and peptonised beef-jelly are also most valuable
preparations for the sick-room. Unlike beef-tea and beef extracts,
which consist only of the juice of the meat, more or less perfectly
extracted, they are the meat itself in a fluid form, fit to be taken at
once into the body without any work for the feeble digestion of the
invalid.
Variety is an Essential. — In sick-room cookery, except in very
serious cases, veal-tea, mutton-tea or broth, or chicken broth, should
occasionally replace the beef-tea in order to prevent the patient be-
coming tired of it. Soups thickened with yolk of egg and cream are
very nourishing, but they are also very rich, and should therefore be
given sparingly even when the patient is convalescent. Meat teas,
soups and broths all offer nourishment in an easily digested form, and
INVALID COOKERY
1349
their restorative powers are very quickly felt, hence their value in the
diet of the sick and convalescent. Savoury jellies are more nourishing
when made from veal or calves’ feet, for they then contain not only
gelatine, but also other extractives of considerable dietetic value.
When variety, and not the amount of nourishment afforded, is the
chief consideration, jelly may be more easily prepared from isinglass
or gelatine, the purest forms of which should alone be used for the
purpose.
Milk is undoubtedly a more valuable food for the sick than any kind
of beef tea, juice or essence, for it supplies all that is necessary to sustain
life during long periods of illness or inactivity. For young children
it is also a perfect food, but for adults in health it is necessary to add
other foods supplying more solid bulk.
The milk, as soon as possible after it is drawn from the cow, should be
boiled and afterwards kept covered until required. For unfortunately,
it is extremely susceptible to contamination, and readily absorbs any
impure gases or matter.
Eggs are a very valuable food, containing all that is necessary for
life in a most concentrated form. The white of an egg is equally
nourishing and less rich than the yolk, and consequently may be given
to a patient when the yolk would disagree. In’ a fluid form they are
easily digested, also when very lightly cooked ; but overcooked in-
soluble eggs generally tax a healthy digestion, and should therefore
be rigidly excluded from the diet of the sick. This applies not only
to eggs simply served, but also to eggs forming a part of puddings,
souffles, etc.
Fish, being light and easily digested, plays an important part in
invalid diet. Whiting, sole, flounder or plaice should be selected, as
these varieties contain a very small percentage of oily matter. Until
the first stages of convalescence are passed, the fish should be either
steamed or boiled, but afterwards, when butter is allowed, broiled or
fried fish generally proves more palatable.
Seasonings and Flavourings should always be added sparingly, for
in sickness the organs of taste are often in an abnormally sensitive
condition.
RECIPES FOR INVALID
COOKERY
CHAPTER XLV
Liquid Foods, Broths and Soups, Fish and Meat Dishes,
Jellies, Puddings, Beverages, Peptonized Foods and
Diabetic Foods.
3159. — BEEF TEA FOR CONVALESCENTS.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of gravy beef, 1 pint of cold water, -} a teaspoonful
of salt.
Method. — Remove the fat, shred the meat finely, as in the following
recipe, or pass it through a mincing machine. Place it in an earthen-
ware jar, add the water and salt, and cover closely. Place the jar in a
saucepan of boiling water, or in a slow oven, and cook for 3 hours,
stirring occasionally. Strain, remove carefully all traces of grease,
and serve.
Time. — 3 hours. Average Cost, yd.
3160. — BEEF TEA FOR CONVALESCENTS. (Another
Method.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of gravy beef, 1 pint of cold water, 2 slices of carrot,
1 small slice of turnip, 1 slice of onion, 1 or 2 sprigs of parsley, 1 bay-
leaf, 4 peppercorns, £ of a teaspoonful of salt.
Method. — Remove the fat, cut the meat into small pieces, or pass it
through a mincing machine. Put the meat, water, vegetables, and
flavouring ingredients into a jar with a close-fitting lid, and cook in a
very slow oven for 3 hours. Strain, remove every particle of grease,
season to taste, and serve.
Time. — 3 hours. Average Cost, y\ d.
3161. — BEEF TEA FOR INVALIDS.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of lean juicy beef, 1 pint of cold water, | of a tea-
spoonful of salt.
1.130
RECIPES FOR INVALID COOKERY
?35i
Method. — Remove all fat and skin, cut the meat into fine shreds, place
it with the salt and water in a basin, and soak for 20 minutes. Turn
it into a stewpan, heat very gently, and stir slowly until the liquid turns
a rich red-brown and the meat becomes white, then strain through a
fine strainer. Remove every particle of grease by repeatedly drawing
white blotting paper or tissue paper over the surface, and serve. Great
care must be taken to keep the beef-tea below simmering point, other-
wise the albumen will harden and form brown particles. The clear
liquid, which alone can be given in serious cases, will thus be deprived
of its chief nourishing constituent, and must therefore be regarded as
a stimulant only.
Time. — \ an hour. Average Cost, iod. to is.
3162. — BEEF TEA, RAW.
Ingredients. — 2 ozs. of lean, juicy beef, 2 tablespoonfuls of cold water,
a pinch of salt.
Method. — Cut off all skin and fat, shred the meat finely, pour over it
the water, add the salt, cover and let it stand for at least 2 hours.
When ready to use strain into a coloured glass, and season to taste.
This variety of beef tea is more easily digested than any other, in conse-
quence of the albumen being contained in an uncooked and therefore
soluble condition.
Time. — 2 hours. Average Cost, i-|-d.
3163. — BEEF TEA, WHOLE.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of gravy beef, 1 pt. of cold water, \ a teaspoonful
of salt.
Method. — Remove all fat, shred the meat finely, and as soon as it is
shredded put it into the water, in which the salt should be previously
dissolved. Let it stand covered for \ an hour, then heat slowly, and
cook as gently as possible until the liquid turns a rich reddish-brown, and
the meat becomes white. Strain, pound the meat thoroughly in a
mortar, and pass it through a wire sieve. Stir the pounded meat into
the beef tea, season to taste, and serve.
Time.— il hours. Average Cost, yd.
3164. — BEEF TEA AND EGG.
Ingredients. — of a pint of beef tea, 1 yolk of egg, salt, toasted bread.
Method. — Beef tea, veal tea, mutton tea, or diluted beef essence may
be employed in this preparation. Beat the yolk of egg in a teacup,
season lightly with salt, and if allowed, add a little pepper. Heat the
beef tea, but do not allow it to boil, and pour it over the yolk of egg,
stirring briskly meanwhile. Serve with thin strips of toast.
Time. — 10 minutes. Average Cost, qd.
1352 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
3165. — BEEF TEA WITH OATMEAL.
Ingredients. — 3 a pint of good beef tea, 1 tablespoonful of well-cooked
oatmeal, salt and pepper, toasted bread.
Method. — The oatmeal when cooked should have the consistency of
thick porridge. Heat the beef tea, stir in the prepared oatmeal, season
to taste, and serve with thin strips of toasted bread.
Time. — 10 minutes. Average Cost, 6d.
3166. — BEEF TEA WITH SAGO AND CREAM.
Ingredients. — 1 pint of beef tea, ^ of a pint of cream, J of a pint of water,
1 oz. of sago, the yolk of 1 egg.
Method. — Blanch the sago carefully, and simmer it gently in the
water until well cooked. Add the beef tea and cream, heat to 140° F.,
then pour in the well-beaten yolk of egg, and stir by the side of the
fire until it is sufficiently cooked, keeping the preparation at the
above-mentioned low temperature, to avoid coagulating the albumen
in the beef tea.
Time. — \ an hour. Average Cost, is. 2d.
3167. — BEEF AND SAGO BROTH.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of gravy beef, 1 quart of cold water, ■§■ an oz. of
fine sago, 1 yolk of egg, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream or milk, \ a teaspoon-
ful of salt.
Method. — Trim off all skin and fat, and cut the meat into small pieces.
Put them into a stewpan with the water and salt, cover closely, and
cook gently for 3 hours, skimming occasionally. Strain into a basin;
when cold remove every particle of fat, then replace in the stewpan and
re-heat. When boiling sprinkle in the sago and cook until clear,
stirring meanwhile. Beat the yolk of egg and cream together, strain
into the soup, stir and cook by the side of the fire for 2 minutes longer,
but take care the preparation does not boil or the egg may curdle.
Season to taste, and serve with thin strips of well-toasted bread.
Time. — Altogether 5 or 6 hours. Average Cost, iod.
3168. — BEEF ESSENCE.
Ingredients. — 1 Jb. of lean juicy beef, salt and pepper.
Method. — Trim off all fat and skin, and place the beef in a jar without
aqy water, Cover with a close-fitting lid, over which tie 2 or 3 folds
of greased paper. Place the jar in a saucepan of boiling water, and
cook slowly for at least 3 hours. Strain, press all the liquid from the
meat, and season to taste. This preparation, being highly concentrated,
should be served in small quantities.
Time. — 3 hours. Average Cost, is.
RECIPES FOR INVALID COOKERY
±653
3169. — BEEF JUICE.
Ingredients.— \ a lb. of lean juicy beef-steak, salt and pepper.
Method. — Remove all fat, and grill the steak quickly on both sides
over a clear fire until slightly cooked. Cut it into strips, press out the
juice with a lemon squeezer into a hot cup, season to taste, and serve.
Time. — To grill the steak, 8 to 10 minutes. Average Cost, yd. or 8d.
3170. — BEEF TEA CUSTARD.
Ingredients. — £ of a pint of good beef tea, the yolks of 2 eggs, the white
of r egg, salt,
Method. — Beat the yolks and white thoroughly together, pour on to
it the beef tea, and season to taste. Have ready a well-buttered
cup, pour in the preparation, cover with a buttered paper, and stand
the cup in a stewpan containing a little boiling water. Steam very
gently for about 20 minutes, then turn out carefully. Serve either hot
or cold, or cut into dice, and serve in broth or soup.
Time. — 20 minutes. Average Cost, 5d. or 6d.
3171. — CALF’S FOOT BROTH.
Ingredients. — 1 calf’s foot, 3 pints of water, or equal parts of milk and
water, lemon-rind, salt, sugar, yolks of eggs.
Method. — Stew the foot in the water, or milk and water, for 3 hours,
then strain into a basin. When cold, remove the fat, re-heat the broth
with 2 or 3 strips of lemon-rind, which must be removed as soon as the
broth is sufficiently flavoured. Add salt and sugar to taste, and to
each \ pint allow 1 yolk of egg. Stir by the side of the fire until the
broth thickens, but do not let it boil, or it may curdle. Free it from
any particle of fat and serve.
Time. — 6 or 7 hours. Average Cost, iod. to is. Sufficient for i| pints
of broth.
3172. — CHICKEN BROTH.
Ingredients. — 1 chicken or a small fowl, 1 oz. of rice, 1 quart of water,
1 carrot, 1 onion sliced, 1 strip of celery sliced, 2 cloves, 1 small blade
of mace, finely-chopped parsley.
Method. — Place the chicken in a stewpan with the water, vegetables
and spices tied in muslin, simmer gently for 2 hours, then remove the
chicken and strain the liquor. Cut the carrot into fancy shapes, and
cut the breast into dice. Re-heat the broth, season to taste, add the
rice previously boiled, the chicken dice, prepared carrot and parsley,
and serve.
Time. — 2} hours. Average Cost, 2s. gd. to 3s.
1354
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
3173. — CHICKEN SOUP.
Ingredients. — 1 chicken or small fowl, 2 yolks of eggs, 3 tablespoonfuls
of cream, 1 dessertspoonful of ground rice or creme de riz, 1 small
onion, 1 small blade of mace, 3 pints of cold water, salt.
Method. — Divide the chicken into small pieces, break the bones, put
both into a stewpan with the water, add \ a teaspoonful of salt, and
bring to the boil. Remove any scum there may be, put in the mace and
onion, cover closely, and simmer gently for 4 hours, skimming occa-
sionally. Strain and put aside until quite cold, then remove every
particle of fat, replace in the stewpan, and bring to boiling point.
Mix the ground rice smoothly with a little cold milk, stir it into the
stock, and simmer gently for 6 or 7 minutes. Beat the cream and yolks
of eggs together, add them to the soup, and stir by the side of the fire
for 2 or 3 minutes, but the soup must not boil or the eggs may curdle.
Season to taste, and serve.
Time. — 8 or 9 hours. Average Cost, 3s. to 3s. 3d.
3174. — CHICKEN AND RICE SOUP.
Ingredients. — 1 pint of chicken stock, \ a pint of cream, 2 tablespoon-
fuls of rice, salt.
Method. — Simmer the rice and stock together very gently for 1} hours,
then strain and return the stock to the stewpan. Add the cream,
season lightly with salt, and a little pepper if allowed, bring to boiling
point, and serve with thin strips of toasted bread.
Time. — 2\ hours. Average Cost, 3s. to 3s. 3d.
3175. — CHICKEN ESSENCE.
Ingredients. — 1 chicken or \ a fowl, \ of a pint of cold water, salt.
Method. — Cut the meat from the bones, break the latter into small
pieces, and shred the meat coarsely. Place the bones at the bottom
of a fireproof earthenware jar, lay the chicken meat on the top of them,
sprinkle lightly with salt, and add the water. Cover closely, stand the
jar in a saucepan of boiling water or in a cool oven, and cook gently
for at least 5 hours. When cooked, strain and press out all the liquid
and remove every particle of grease by drawing blotting or tissue paper
repeatedly over the surface. Season to taste, and serve in small
quantities.
Time. — 5 hours. Average Cost, is. 6d. to 2s. 6d.
3176. — EEL BROTH.
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of eel, 3 pints of cold water, \ a small onion,
2 or 3 sprigs of parsley, 1 bay-leaf, 2 cloves, salt and pepper.
Method. — Wash, clean and skin the eel, then cut it into small pieces,
and put them in a stewpan. Add the water, onions, parsley, bay-
RECIPES FOR INVALID COOKERY
1355
leaf, cloves, and a little salt and pepper, and simmer gently for if hours,
skimming when necessary. Strain into a basin, let it stand until cold,
and remove every particle of fat. Re-heat in small quantities as
required.
Time. — 1 J hours. Average Cost, 9d.
3177. — FISH SOUP.
Ingredients. — x lb. of whiting, plaice, cod or other white fish, 1 quart
of water, 1 gill of milk, \ a gill of cream, 1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of flour,
2 yolks of eggs, 3 slices of carrot, -}■ a very small onion, 2 or 3 sprigs of
parsley, 1 very small blade of mace, a teaspoonful of lemon-juice,
salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the fish and its bones into small pieces, place it in a
stewpan with the water, carrot, onion, parsley, mace and a little salt,
simmer gently for 20 minutes, then strain. Melt the butter in a stew-
pan, stir in the flour, add the stock and milk, bring to the boil, stirring
meanwhile, and simmer for 4 minutes. Beat the yolks of eggs and
cream together, strain them into the soup, stir by the side of the fire
for 2 or 3 minutes, but do not allow the soup to boil, or the eggs may
curdle. Add the lemon-juice, season to taste, and serve.
Time. — 35 minutes. Average Cost, is. 2d. to is. 4d.
3178. — LAMB’S HEAD BROTH.
Ingredients. — 1 lamb’s head, 3 pints of cold water, 1 oz. of pearl
barley or rice, 1 small onion, 1 small carrot, \ a very small turnip,
C a teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, pepper and salt.
Method. — Split the head in halves, wash it well, then tie it together
with string. Place it in a stewpan with the water and about \ a tea-
spoonful of salt, bring to boiling point and skim well. If pearl barley
is used blanch it, otherwise it will spoil the colour of the broth, and cut
the vegetables into tiny dice. Simmer the broth very gently for 1
hour, then add the pearl barley or rice, and vegetables, and continue
the slow cooking for 2 hours longer. Strain, skim well, season to taste,
and serve. If desirable, the vegetables may be omitted. On the other
hand, when meat and vegetables are allowed, the latter should not be
added to the soup until an hour before serving; and some of the meat
should be cut into small dice and served, with the vegetables, in the
soup.
Time. — 3-)- hours. Average Cost, is.
3179. ^ MUTTON BROTH.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of scrag-end of mutton, 1 quart of water (cold),
1 tablespoonful of rice, 1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley, salt and
pepper.
1356
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Remove all fat, cut the mutton into small joints, and put
it and the water and salt into a stewpan. Bring to the boil, skim well,
then cover and simmer gently for 3 hours, adding the rice about \ an
hour before serving. When ready, take out the meat and bones,
cut the former into tiny dice, replace in the broth, add the parsley,
season to taste and serve. If preferred, the broth may be strained and
simply served with the chopped parsley.
Time. — 3^- hours. Average Cost, 6d.
3180. — MUTTON BROTH. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of scrag end of the neck of mutton, 1 oz. of pearl
barley, 1 small carrot, 1 small onion, 1 strip of celery, \ of a teaspoonful
of finely-chopped parsley, salt and pepper, 1 quart of water.
Method. — Trim the mutton into neat pieces, and remove all the fat,
cut the carrot and onion into fine strips, and blanch the barley.
Simmer the meat and vegetables in the water for 2 hours, season lightly
with salt and pepper, and add the pearl barley about \ an hour before
serving. Place the parsley in a soup tureen, also some neatly cut
pieces of the cooked meat, pour the broth upon it, and serve hot.
Time. — 2 hours. Average Cost, 9d.
3181. — MUTTON, ESSENCE OF.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of lean mutton, 1 gill of water, salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut away every particle of fat, shred the meat finely, and
place it in a jar with the cold water. Cover closely, place the jar in a
saucepan of boiling water or in a cool oven, and cook gently for at
least 2 hours. Strain and press all the liquid from the meat, and add
salt and pepper to taste. This preparation being highly concentrated,
should be administered in small quantities.
Time.— 2\ hours. Average Cost, iod.
3182. — MUTTON TEA.
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of lean mutton, | a pint of water, J of a teaspoonful
of salt.
Method.— Mutton tea is less generally employed than beef tea, but
it is a useful means of varying the diet, and it is both light and easily
digested. For invalids it should be prepared as directed for Beef Tea
for Invalids (No. 3161) ; but a more savoury and palatable preparation
for convalescents may be made by gently stewing the meat for 2 or 3
hours ( see Beef Tea for Convalescents, No. 3159).
Time. — \ hour. Average Cost, 5d.
RECIPES FOR INVALID COOKERY
1357
3183.— OXTAIL SOUP.
Ingredients. — 1 oxtail, 2 quarts of cold water, i-J- ozs. of butter, 1
small onion, 1 dessertspoonful of vermicelli, salt and pepper.
Method. — Divide the oxtail at the joints, trim off all the fat, then
blanch and dry it well. Melt the butter in a stewpan, fry the oxtail,
turning it frequently that all parts may be equally browned, then drain
off the butter. Add the water, onion, salt and pepper, bring to boiling
point and skim well, then cover closely and simmer gently for 4 hours.
Strain; when quite cold remove every particle of fat and re-heat the
soup. When quite boiling sprinkle in the vermicelli, cook until clear,
then, if allowed, add some of the nicest pieces of the tail, season to
taste, make thoroughly hot, and serve.
Time. — 8 or 9 hours. Average Cost, 2s. 3d. to 2s. 9d.
3184. — OYSTER SOUP.
Ingredients. — 1 whiting, 6 sauce oysters, 1 pint of milk, \ a pint of
water, 3 slices of carrot, a very small onion, 2 or 3 sprigs of parsley,
1 bay-leaf, 1 small blade of mace, 6 peppercorns. For the liaison:
1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, 1 yolk of egg, 1 gill of cream, lemon-juice,
salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the whiting, with its bone, into small pieces, put them
into a stewpan with the milk, water, carrot, onion, parsley, bay-leaf,
mace, peppercorns and a little salt, and simmer gently for \ an hour.
Meanwhile blanch the oysters in their own liquor, then strain and add
it, with the beards, to the contents of the stewpan, and cut the oysters
in quarters and put them aside until wanted. Melt the butter in a
stewpan, stir in the flour, add the strained fish stock, stir until boiling,
and cook for 3 or 4 minutes. Beat the yolk of egg and cream well
together, strain into the soup, and stir by the side of the fire for a few
minutes, taking care that the soup does not boil. Add the prepared
oysters, a few drops of lemon-juice, season to taste, and serve.
Time. — £ of an hour. Average Cost, is. iod.
3185. — TAPIOCA CREAM SOUP.
Ingredients. — 1 pint of chicken or veal broth, 2 yolks of eggs, £ of a
pint of cream, 1 tablespoonful of crushed tapioca, salt and pepper.
Method. — Bring the broth to boiling point, sprinkle in the tapioca
and simmer gently until quite clear. Beat the yolk of egg and cream
well together, strain into the soup, and stir by the side of the fire for
2 or 3 minutes to cook the egg, but do not let it boil, or it will curdle.
Season to taste, and serve.
Time.— 15 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. to is. gd.
1358
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Fish
3186. — CUTLETS OF COD.
Ingredients. — Thin slices of cod, lemon-juice, brown bread, butter.
Method. — Divide each slice of cod into small cutlets, place them on a
greased baking-tin, and sprinkle them lightly with salt, pepper and
lemon-juice. Cover with a buttered paper, and bake in a moderate
oven for about 10 minutes. Serve the fish with slices of lemon, the
liquor that has come from it in cooking, also thin slices of brown
buttered bread.
Time. — 10 minutes. Average Cost, 8d. per lb.
3187. — FISH CAKES.
Ingredients. — 3- of a lb. of cooked fish, 2 ozs. of mashed potatoes,
\ an oz. of butter, 1 yolk of egg, pepper and salt, egg and breadcrumbs,
frying fat.
Method. — Remove all skin and bone and chop the fish finely. Melt
the butter in a stewpan, add the lish and potato, salt and pepper to
taste, and stir in the yolk of egg. Cook over the fire until the mixture
adheres, forming a ball, then turn on to a plate. When cold, form
into cakes, brush over with beaten egg, coat carefully with bread-
crumbs, and fry in hot fat. Drain well, and serve on a dish paper
garnished with fried parsley.
Time. — 1 \ hours. Average Cost, 6d.
3188. - FISH EGGS (SCRAMBLED).
Ingredients. — 3 eggs, 3 ozs. of finely-flaked cooked white fish, 2 ozs.
of butter, 1 tablespoonful of cream or milk, salt and pepper, buttered
toast.
Method. — Beat the eggs, add the cream or milk, and season to taste.
Heat the butter in a stewpan, put in the fish, and let it become thor-
oughly hot, then add the eggs. Cook slowly and stir continuously
until the mixture begins to thicken, then pile it on the hot toast, and
serve at once.
Time. — About 10 minutes. Average Cost, 9d. Sufficient for 2 persons.
3189. — FISH PUDDING.
Ingredients. — } a lb. of cooked fish, of a lb. of mashed potato, 1 oz.
of butter, 1 egg, 2 tablespoonfuls of milk, 1 teaspoonful of chopped
parsley, pepper and salt.
Method. — Remove the bones and skin from the fish, and break it
into fine flakes. Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the potato, fish,
RECIPES FOR INVALID COOKERY
1359
well-beaten egg, milk and parsley, season to tagte, and stir the mixture
over the fire for 3 or 4 minutes. Have ready a well-buttered mould or
pie-dish, pour in the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven for about
l an hour. Turn out on to a dish paper, garnish with parsley and lemon,
and serve.
Time. — 1 hour. Average Cost, qd.
3190. — FISH PUDDING. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of fish, either cooked or uncooked, 2 ozs. of butter,
1 oz. of breadcrumbs, 1 egg, \ a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, \ a
gill of milk, pepper and salt.
Method. — Remove all skin and bone, separate the fish into flakes,
and pound it well in a mortar. Add the butter gradually, and when
quite smooth mix in the egg, milk, parsley and breadcrumbs. Season
to taste, turn into a well-greased pudding basin or mould, and cover
with a buttered paper. Place the mould or basin in a saucepan con-
taining boiling water, cover closely, and steam very gently for about
1 hour. Turn out carefully on a hot dish, and serve with a good white
sauce.
Time.— 1-3- hours. Average Cost, 8d. to is.
3191. — FISH QUENELLES.
( Fr . — Quenelles de Poisson.)
Ingredients. — 3 ozs. of whiting or other white fish, 1 oz. of butter,
1 egg, 1 tablespoonful of breadcrumbs, 1 tablespoonful of milk, pepper
and salt.
Method. — Mix the butter, milk, and breadcrumbs well together in
a stewpan by the side of the fire, and let the mixture cool. Pound
the fish in a mortar, add the bread mixture and the egg, and, when well
mixed, pass the whole through a sieve. Form into quenelles ( see
Quenelles of Veal, No. 757), poach for 10 minutes in boiling stock or
milk, then strain and serve with white sauce poured over and round.
Time. — 1 hour. Average Cost, 6d. or 7d. SufUcient for 4 or 5 quenelles.
3192. — FISH SOUFFLE. (Fr. — Souffle de Poisson.)
Ingredients. — ^ a lb. of white fish freed from skin and bone, 2 ozs. of
flour, 2 ozs. of butter, 3 eggs, 1 gill of fish stock or milk, \ a gill of
cream.
Method. — Melt the butter, stir in the flour, add the milk or stock,
cook thoroughly, then turn the panada on to a plate to cool. Pound
the fish in a mortar, adding gradually the panada, 1 whole egg, and 2
yolks of eggs. Season to taste, pass the mixture through a fine sieve,
then stir in the cream, and the whites of eggs previously whisked
to a stiff froth. Have ready a well-buttered souffle-tin, provided with
1360
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
a band of bnttered paper to support the souffle when it rises above the
level of the tin, pour in the preparation, and steam gently from 45 to
50 minutes. Serve with a good fish sauce (see Sauces).
Time. — i-J hours. Average Cost, is. to is. 3d.
3193. — FISH SOUFFLE. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 1 whiting, 1 oz. of flour, \ an oz. of butter, 2 eggs,
\ a gill of milk or water, pepper and salt.
Method. — Free the fish from skin and bone. Melt the butter, stir
in the flour, add the milk, and cook until the panada leaves the sides
of the pan quite clean. Pound the fish, panada and yolks of the eggs
well together, season to taste, and pass the mixture through a fine
sieve. Beat the eggs stiffly, stir them lightly into the preparation,
then turn it into a souffle-tin prepared as directed in the preceding
recipe, and steam gently from 35 to 40 minutes. If preferred, the
mixture may be steamed for 15 minutes in dariol moulds. Serve
with a good white sauce poured over or round.
Time. — 1£ hours. Average Cost, 8d.
3194. — FRICASSEE OF FISH.
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of white fish, f- of a pint of cold water, 1 small
blade of mace, 2 or 3 sprigs of parsley, a pinch of grated nutmeg.
For the sauce: \ an oz. of butter, \ an oz. of flour, 1 gill of fish stock,
a gill of milk, 1 teaspoonful of lemon- juice.
Method. — Simmer the fish with the mace, parsley, nutmeg, and a
little salt in the water until three-quarters cooked, then strain off the
liquor and break the fish into flakes. Melt the butter in a stewpan,
stir in the flour, add 1 gill of the fish liquor and the milk, and boil
for 3 or 4 minutes. Season to taste, add the lemon-juice and fish,
make thoroughly hot, and serve. Cooked fish may be used, in which
case the fish stock should be prepared from the bones and skin.
Time. — 20 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. to 8d.
3195. — OYSTERS, STEWED.
Ingredients. — 12 oysters, 1 oz. of butter, \ an oz. of flour, 1 yolk of
egg, \ a gill of milk (about), of a gill of cream, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-
juice, a small blade of mace, salt and pepper.
Method. — Blanch the oysters in their own liquor, then strain and add
to it enough milk to increase the quantity to \ a pint. Melt the butter
in a stewpan, stir in the flour, add the mace, mixed liquor and milk,
and boil from 2 or 3 minutes. Beat the cream and yolk of egg well
together, strain them into the sauce, and stir by the side of the fire
for 3 or 4 minutes to cook the egg, but do not let it boil or it will curdle.
RECIPES FOR INVALID COOKERY
L36i
Beard the oysters, cut them into halves or quarters, and stir them
into the sauce. Season to taste, add the lemon-juice, remove the
mace, and serve.
Time. — 20 minutes. Average Cost, 2s.
3196. SOLE, GRILLED.
Ingredients. — 1 medium-sized sole, butter, salt and pepper.
Method. — Trim the sole, and wipe it thoroughly with a damp cloth.
Rub it over with a little salt and pepper, and coat it completely with
liquid butter. Place the sole on a scrupulously clean well-buttered grill,
and cook over or in front of a clear fire, turning it occasionally during
the process. Serve on a dish paper, garnish with parsley and lemon.
If allowed, a good white or other suitable sauce may accompany the
dish.
Time. — 10 minutes. Average Cost, is. to is. 6d.
3197. — SOLE, FRIED FILLETED.
Ingredients. — 1 sole, 1 egg, breadcrumbs, 1 dessertspoonful of flour,
salt and pepper, frying-fat.
Method. — Loosen the skin all round the sole, then take firmly hold
of it at the tail and tear it upwards towards the head. To fillet, make
an incision down the centre of the backbone and round the fins with a
sharp knife, insert the knife in the centre slit, and with short sharp
strokes remove each fillet, keeping the knife pressed close to the bone
during the process. Season the flour with pepper and salt, and dip
in each fillet to dry and season it. Coat each fillet carefully with egg
and breadcrumbs, and fry in hot fat until golden-brown. Drain well,
and serve on a dish paper, garnished with parsley and slices of lemon.
Plaice is filleted in the same way, except that the upper white skin
is left on the fish, but the under dark skin should be removed.
Time. — To fry the fish, about 8 minutes. Average Cost, is. 9d. to 2s.
per lb.
3198. — SOLE, SOUCHET OF.
Ingredients. — 1 sole, \ a small carrot, I of a finely-chopped shallot,
2 or 3 sprigs of parsley, 6 peppercorns, 1 blade of mace, salt, lemon-
juice, 5- of a pint of water.
Method. — Skin and fillet the sole, and roll up the fillets with the skin
side of the fish inside the roll. Simmer the peppercorns, mace and
parsley in the water for 10 minutes, then strain and return it to the
stewpan. Add the shallot and the carrot, cut into the finest shreds,
and cook gently until the vegetables are tender. Put in the prepared
fish, add salt to taste, and a little pepper, if necessary. Simmer gently
for about 10 minutes, then add a few drops of lemon-juice, and serve.
Time. — \ an hour. Average Cost, is. 3d. to is. 9d.
1362 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
3199. — SOLE, STEAMED. ( See Whiting, Steamed,
No. 3202.)
3200. — WHITING CREAM.
Ingredients. — 1 whiting, which should weigh 4 ozs. when freed from
skin and bone, 1 oz. of flour, \ an oz. of butter, 1 yolk of egg, a gill of
milk, \ a gill of cream, pepper and salt.
Method. — Melt the butter in a stewpan, stir in the flour, add the milk,
cook until the panada leaves the sides of the pan and forms a com-
pact mass round the bowl of the spoon, then turn on to a plate to cool.
Pound the fish in a mortar until smooth, adding the panada, egg, and a
little seasoning, and pass the mixture through a fine sieve. Whip the
cream slightly, stir it lightly into the preparation, which afterwards
turn into a well-buttered souffle mould. Cover with a buttered paper,
steam gently from 40 to 45 minutes, then turn out and serve, either plain
or with a white fish sauce poured over and round.
Time. — ij hours. Average Cost, 9d.
3201. — WHITING, BOILED.
Ingredients. — 1 whiting, 1 dessertspoonful of vinegar or 1 teaspoonful
of lemon-juice, \ a teaspoonful of salt.
Method. — Remove the skin and truss the whiting with its tail in its
mouth. Have ready a stewpan containing just enough hot, but not
boiling water, to barely cover the fish, add the vinegar or lemon-juice
and the salt, put in the whiting, and cook very gently for 7 or 8 minutes,
keeping the water just below simmering point. Observe the cracking
of the skin, which is a sure indication that the fish is sufficiently cooked.
Drain well, and serve on a folded serviette garnished with parsley
and slices of lemon. If allowed, parsley or white sauce should accom-
pany the dish. A sole may be boiled in the same way, but a small
fish kettle should be used and the sole laid flat upon the strainer.
Time. — 7 or 8 minutes. Average Cost, 4d.
3202. — WHITING, STEAMED.
Ingredients. — 1 whiting, \ an oz. of butter, \ an oz. of flour, lemon-
juice, 1 gill of milk, salt and pepper.
Method. — Skin the whiting and truss it with its tail in its mouth.
Place it in a well-buttered soup plate, sprinkle it lightly with salt,
pepper and lemon-juice, and cover with a buttered paper. Have ready
a saucepan containing boiling water, place the plate' on the top of it,
and cover with another plate or the lid of the saucepan. Cook from
30 to 35 minutes, turning the fish once during the process. Blend the
flour and butter, add the milk, stir till boiling, and cook for about 10
minutes. Season with salt and pepper, add lemon-juice to taste,
pour over the whiting, and serve.
Time. — 35 minutes. Average Cost, 5^-d.
RECIPES FOR INVALID COOKERY
JA6-
Meat Dishes
3203. — BARLEY CREAM.
Ingredients. — §• a lb. of raw chicken or lean veal, 4- an oz. of pearl
barley, \ a pint of cold water, 4- a gill of cream, salt and pepper.
Method. — Shred the chicken-meat or veal finely or pass it through a
mincing machine. Cover the barley with cold water, boil for 2 or
3 minutes, then strain. Replace the barley in the stewpan, add the
prepared meat, water and a little salt, and cook as gently as
possible from if to 2 hours. Strain, pound the meat and barley in a
mortar until smooth, moistening it meanwhile with a little of the liquor
in which it was cooked, and rub it through a fine sieve. Add the cream
slightly whipped, season to taste, and either serve cold, or re-heat a
little as required.
Time. — 2\ hours. Average Cost, qd., when veal is used.
3204. — BRAISED NECK OF LAMB.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of the best end neck of lamb, 1 carrot, \ a turnip,
1 onion, 2 or 3 sprigs of parsley, f- of a pint of stock or water, salt and
pepper.
Method. — Saw off the chine bone, saw the rib bones across, and
remove the pieces at the thin end by means of a sharp knife. Trim
off the skin and the greater part of the fat, and fold the part from
which the bones were removed underneath to form a compact shape.
Prepare the vegetables, cut them into thick slices, arrange them in a
close layer at the bottom of a stewpan, and add the stock. Place
the lamb on the top of the vegetables, cover with a buttered paper,
put on the lid, and cook gently from 2 to 2\ hours. Crisp the outside
in a quick oven, and serve with good gravy or brown sauce ( see
Gravies and Sauces).
Time. — 3 hours. Average Cost, is. 3d.
3205. — CALF’S FOOT, STEWED.
Ingredients. — 1 calf’s foot, 1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, a gill of
cream, 1 pint of water, 1 small onion sliced, 2 or 3 sprigs of parsley,
2 cloves, 1 small blade of mace, a little finely-chopped parsley.
Method. — Wash and blanch the foot; put it into the stewpan with the
spices and vegetables, and stew gently for 3 hours, adding more water
if much evaporation occurs. When done, remove the bones, cut the
meat into neat pieces, and keep them hot in a little of the stock. Melt
the butter in a stewpan, stir in the flour, strain in the stock, boil gently
1364
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
until the sauce becomes thick and smooth, then season carefully and
stir in the cream. Arrange the calf’s foot neatly on a hot dish, pour
the sauce over, sprinkle with parsley, and serve.
Time. — 3 3 hours. Average Cost, is. 4d. to is. ?d.
3206. — CHICKEN CREAM.
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of raw chicken, i-J- ozs. of butter, 1 white of egg,
1 tablespoonful of breadcrumbs, \ a gill of cream, ^ a gill of milk,
salt and pepper.
Method. — Scrape the meat or pass it through a mincing machine,
and pound in a mortar until smooth. Warm the milk, butter and bread-
crumbs together, and add them gradually to the chicken-meat, pound-
ing well meanwhile. Pass the mixture through a fine sieve, season to
taste, add the cream slightly beaten, and lastly the stiffly-whisked
white of egg. Turn into a well-buttered mould or basin, and steam
gently from 30 to 40 minutes. If allowed, serve with a good white
sauce. If preferred, veal may be used instead of chicken.
Time. — 1| hours. Average Cost, is. 6d.
3207. — CHICKEN CUSTARD.
Ingredients. — 3 ozs. of raw chicken, 2 yolks of eggs, 1 white of egg,
1 gill of stock or milk, pepper and salt.
Method. — Shred the raw chicken finely or pass it through a mincing
machine, then pound it in a mortar until smooth, adding the stock
or milk gradually, and press it through a fine sieve. Beat yolks and
white of egg well together, stir it into the chicken puree, and add
pepper and salt to taste. Pour into well-greased china ramakin cases,
cover with buttered paper, and steam very gently until firm. If
allowed, serve with good white sauce.
Time. — 40 minutes. Average Cost, is. iod. to 2s.
3208. — CHICKEN PANADA.
Ingredients. — |- of a lb. of raw chicken, \ a gill of cream, pepper and
salt.
Method. — Pass the chicken meat twice through a mincing machine,
then weigh it and place it in a well-buttered jar. Cover closely with
buttered paper, stand the jar in a saucepan, surround it to half its
depth with boiling water, and cook very gently for 1 hour. When
ready, pound in a mortar until smooth, adding the liquor gradually,
rub through a fine sieve, and stir in the cream previously whipped.
Season to taste, and serve either hot or cold on strips of thin crisp toast.
Time. — 1\ hours. Average Cost, is. 6d. to 2s.
RECIPES FOR INVALID COOKERY
1365
3209. — CHICKEN SOUFFLE.
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of raw chicken, i| ozs. of butter, 1 whole egg,
J of a pint of cream, salt and pepper.
Method. — Scrape the raw chicken into fine shreds or pass it through
a mincing machine. Pound well in a mortar, adding the egg and
butter gradually, pass the mixture through a fine sieve, and season to
taste Whip the cream slightly and the white of egg stiffly, and stir
both as lightly as possible into the chicken preparation. Have ready
a well-buttered souffle mould, turn in the mixture, cover with a buttered
paper, and steam very gently from 40 to 45 minutes. Turn out and
serve with a good white sauce poured over and round.
Time. — ij hours. Average Cost, 3s. 6d.
3210. — CHICKEN, STEWED.
Ingredients. — 1 chicken, 1 yolk of egg, 1 oz. of flour, \ a pint of milk,
\ a pint of water, 1 strip of celery, salt and pepper.
Method. — Divide the chicken into small joints, place them in a stew-
pan, add the water (boiling), milk, celery and a little salt, cover closely,
and simmer gently for 2 hours. About 15 minutes before serving mix
the flour smoothly with a little cold milk, add it to the contents of the
stewpan, stir until boiling, and simmer gently for 6 or 7 minutes.
Beat the yolk of egg, pour over it gradually 3 or 4 tablespoonfuls of the
liquor from the stewpan, and when well mixed add it to the contents
of the stewpan. Stir by the side of the fire for 3 or 4 minutes to cook
the egg, season to taste, and serve.
Time. — 2 hours. Average Cost, 2s. 9d.
3211. — CHICKEN, FILLET OF, STEAMED.
Ingredients. — The breast or wings of 1 chicken, butter, pepper and
salt.
Method. — Remove the chicken carefully from the bone, sprinkle
slightly with salt and pepper, and place in a well-butterecl soup plate.
Have ready a saucepan of boiling water, put the plate on the top ol
it, cover with another plate or basin, and cook very gently for about
an hour. Serve with its own gravy.
Time. — f of an hour. Average Cost, uncertain.
3212. — CHICKEN OR GAME, FILLET OF, BAKED.
Ingredients. — The breast or wings of 1 chicken, butter, salt and pepper.
Method. — Remove the bones carefully, keeping the fillets as intact
as possible, sprinkle them lightly with salt and pepper, and place them
on a buttered baking-tin. Cover with a buttered paper, and bake in a
moderate oven trom 15 to 20 minutes. If liked and allowed serve,
with a little cooked spinach and good white sauce.
Time.— 20 minutes. Average Cost, uncertain.
1366
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
3213. — CHICKEN OR GAME, FILLET OF, GRILLED.
Ingredients. — The breast or wings of 1 raw chicken, butter, salt and
pepper.
Method. — Remove the bones with a sharp knife, keeping the fillets
as intact as possible. Season them lightly with salt and pepper, wrap
them separately in well-buttered white paper, and grill over or in
front of a clear fire. Turn 2 or 3 times during the process, which
should occupy from 10 to 12 minutes. Serve plainly or with a little
Maitre d’Hotel butter, or any sauce liked or allowed.
Time. — 12 minutes. Average Cost, uncertain.
3214. CHOP, STEAMED.
Ingredients. — 1 lamb or mutton chop, 1 very small finely-chopped
onion, J of a pint of mutton broth or water, 1 tablespoonful of rice,
salt and pepper.
Method. — Trim off all the fat, place the chop in a stewpan, add the
broth or water, onion and a little salt. Cover closely, and cook gently
for an hour, then add the rice and continue the slow cooking for 1
hour longer. Serve with the rice and gravy.
Time. — 1^ hours. Average Cost, 6d.
Note. — For other methods of preparing mutton chops and cutlets, see
Recipes for Cooking Lamb and Mutton.
3215. — CODDLED EGG.
Ingredients. — 1 new-laid egg.
Method. — -Place the egg in boiling water, put on the lid, and let the
stewpan stand for 7 or 8 minutes where the water will keep hot without
simmering. An egg cooked in this manner is more easily digested than
when boiled in the ordinary way.
Time. — 7 or 8 minutes. Average Cost, 2d.
3216. — CUTLET GRILLED.
Ingredients. — 1 cutlet, 1 oz. of butter, salt and pepper.
Method. — Trim the cutlet, brush it over on both sides with liquid
butter, and grill it over or in front of a clear fire from 7 to 8 minutes,
turning it 2 or 3 times during the process. The cutlet should be brushed
over with butter each time it is turned; and if much butter is liked
it may be served with a small pat, which may be varied by mixing
with it a little chopped^ parsley, a few grains of cayenne, and a iewT
drops of lemon-juice.
Time. — 7 or 8 minutes. Average Cost, 6d.
3217. — CUTLET STEAMED.
Ingredients. — 1 lamb or mutton cutlet, butter, pepper.
Method. — Trim off all the fat, place the cutlet in a well-buttered soup
RECIPES FOR INVALID COOKERY
1367
plate, and sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper. Cover with another
plate, place on the top of a saucepan of boiling water, and cook for
about 45 minutes, turning it once or twice during the process. Serve
with its own gravy and any kind of vegetable that is liked by the
patient and allowed by the doctor.
Time. — 45 minutes. Average Cost, 6d.
3218. — CUTLET STEWED.
Ingredients. — 1 cutlet, 1 oz. of rice, 1 slice of onion, 1 yolk of egg,
\ a pint of water, salt and pepper.
Method. — Boil the rice in the water until tender, then strain and re-
turn the water to the stewpan. Add the cutlet neatly trimmed, the
onion and a little salt and pepper, and stew very gently until the cutlet
is tender. Remove the cutlet and keep it hot; to the contents of the
stewpan add the rice and yolk of egg, and stir by the side of the fire
until the mixture thickens. Season to taste, take away the onion,
pour over and around the cutlet, and serve. If vegetable flavouring
is not allowed, the onion may be omitted.
Time. — } an hour. Average Cost, 8d.
3219. — FRICASSEE OF CHICKEN.
Ingredients. — 1 chicken, 1 oz. of butter, x oz. of flour, 1 pint of chicken
stock, 1 tablespoonful of cream, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, 2 yolks
of eggs, 1 very small onion, 2 or 3 thin slices of carrot, 2 or 3 sprigs
of parsley, 1 bay-leaf, 1 small blade of mace, salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the chicken into neat joints, place them with the bones
and trimmings in a stewpan, and cover, with boiling water. Bring slowly
to boiling point, skim if necessary, add the onion, carrot, parsley,
bay-leaf, mace and a little salt, and cook gently for \ an hour. Melt
the butter in a stewpan, stir in the flour, add 1 pint of the strained
liquor in which the chicken was cooked, and simmer gently for 10
minutes. Beat together the yolk of egg and cream, stir them into the
sauce, add the lemon-juice, and season to taste. Stir gently by the
side of the fire for a few minutes, to cook the egg, then put in the pieces
of chicken, make them thoroughly hot, and serve with the sauce strained
over. Cooked chicken may be utilized, and the sauce made of white
stock or milk.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 3s. 6d.
3220. — MINCED RAW CHICKEN.
Ingredients.— \ a raw chicken, an oz. of butter, \ an oz. of flour,
1 yolk of egg, J of a pint of stock or milk, 1 tablespoonful of cream,
1 small blade of mace, 1 thin small strip of lemon-rind, thin toasted
bread, pepper and salt.
1368
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Cut the raw chicken into small dice, fry lightly in the
butter, then sprinkle in the flour and cook for 3 or 4 minutes without
browning. Add the stock, stir until boiling, then put in the mace,
lemon-rind, and a pinch of salt, cover closely, and cook gently from
1 to i£ hours. Beat the yolk of egg and cream together, add them
to the contents of the stewpan, and stir by the side of the fire for 2 or
3 minutes to cook the egg, but do not let it boil or it will curdle. Remove
the mace and lemon-rind, season to taste, and serve garnished with
sippets of dry toast.
Time. — 1 \ hours. Average Cost, 2s.
3221. — MINCE OF COOKED CHICKEN OR GAME.
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of cooked chicken or game, 1 oz. of butter, a
small dessertspoonful of flour, 1 yolk of egg, \\ gills of stock or milk, 1
tablespoonful of cream, 1 bay-leaf, or a fine strip of lemon-rind, nut-
meg, salt and pepper.
Method. — Remove all skin and bone, cut the chicken or game into
very small dice, and simmer the bones, trimmings and bay-leaf in a
little water for at least 1 hour. Strain; if necessary add milk to make
up the i-i- gills, or, if more convenient, use milk entirely. Melt the butter
in a stewpan, stir in the flour, add the stock, and boil for 10 minutes.
Add the prepared chicken; when thoroughly hot stir in the cream and
yolk of egg previously beaten together, and season to taste with salt,
pepper and nutmeg. Stir by the side of the fire for 2 or 3 minutes
to cook the egg, then serve.
Time. — 10 minutes, after the stock is made. Average Cost, iod. to is.
3222. — MINCE OF FRESH MUTTON.
Ingredients. — 6 oz. of lean mutton, an oz. of butter, 1 teaspoonful
of flour, J of a teaspoonful of finely-chopped onion, \ of a pint of stock
or water, salt and pepper, toasted bread.
Method. — Select tender juicy meat, trim off all the fat, and cut the
lean into tiny dice. Melt the butter in a stewpan, fry the onion lightly,
add the meat and cook gently for a few minutes, browning it slightly.
Stir in the flour, add the stock and a little salt and pepper, and simmer
very gently until tender (about \ an hour). Serve garnished with
triangles of thin toasted bread.
Time. — 40 minutes. Average Cost, 6d.
3223. — QUENELLES OF VEAL.
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of fillet of veal, 2 ozs. of flour, 1 oz. of butter,
1 egg, 1 gill of stock, salt and pepper, nutmeg.
Method. — Melt the butter in a stewpan, stir in the flour, add the
stock, and boil until the panada leaves the sides of the stewpan clean,
RECIPES FOR INVALID COOKERY
1369
stirring vigorously meanwhile. Turn the panada on to a plate to cool,
and meanwhile shred the meat and pass it 2 or 3 times through a
mincing machine. Pound the meat, panada and egg in a mortar
until smooth, season to taste, and pass it through a wire sieve. Shape
the quenelles in spoons ( see Recipe No. 757), or fill small, well-buttered
quenelle moulds with the mixture. Poach until firm, about 20
minutes, and serve with good white sauce.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, iod.
3224. — RABBIT, STEWED.
Ingredients. — 1 young rabbit, 1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, 1 pint of
water, \ a pint of milk, 1 small onion, 2 or 3 sprigs of parsley, 2 cloves,
salt and pepper.
Method. — Wash, wipe and joint the rabbit, put it into the stewpan with
water (cold), onion sliced, parsley, cloves, and a little salt and pepper, boil
up, skim, and stew gently until tender. Melt the butter in a stewpan,
stir in the flour, add the milk and \ a pint of the liquor in which the
rabbit was cooked, and boil for 3 minutes. Season to taste and pour
over the rabbit, which should be piled high in the centre of a hot dish.
Time. — 1 hour. Average Cost, is. 6d.
3225. — RAW BEEF BALLS.
Ingredients. — 3 or 4 ozs. of raw juicy steak, a little cream or strong
beef tea, butter.
Method. — Scrape the meat into tiny fragments with a sharp knife,
and press it through a wire sieve. Mix with it about £ a teaspoonful of
cream or strong beef tea, then form into balls the size of a very small
Spanish nut. Rub the bottom of a sautepan or stewpan slightly with
butter, make the pan hot, put in the balls, and move them about for a
few seconds with a spoon until the colour is slightly changed, but
leaving the inside absolutely raw. Serve with beef tea or soup.
Time. — an hour. Average Cost, steak, is. 2d. to is. qd. per lb.
3226. — RAW BEEF SANDWICHES.
Ingredients. — 2 or 3 ozs. of raw juicy steak, thin slices of bread and
butter, salt and pepper.
Method. — Scrape the meat finely, rub it through a wire sieve, and
season lightly with salt and pepper. Spread it on thin bread and
butter, and place another piece on the top. Cut into dainty squares
and serve. If preferred, the pepper and salt may be omitted, and the
meat preparation, when spread on the bread, plentifully dredged with
castor sugar. This entirely masks the flavour of the meat.
Time.— 10 minutes. Average Cost, steak, is. 2d. to is. qd. per lb.
1370 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
3227. — SWEETBREAD, FRIED.
Ingredients. — 1 calf’s heart sweetbread, stock, 1 oz. of butter, 1 egg,
breadcrumbs, parsley.
Method. — Blanch the sweetbread; when cold remove it from the
water, and trim away all gristle and fat. Put it into a stewpan with
as much well-flavoured stock as will just cover it, and simmer gently
for about \ an hour. Press between 2 plates until cold, then cut it
into slices, coat them with egg and breadcrumbs, and fry lightly in
hot butter. Or, if preferred, the slices may be fried in boiling fat.
Drain well, and serve on a dish paper garnished with crisply-fried
parsley.
Time, — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 4s. 6d. to 7 s. 6d.
Note. — For other methods of preparing calves’ and lambs’ sweetbread, see
chapters on Veal and Lamb.
3228. — TRIPE, STEWED.
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of tripe, L a pint of milk, 1 oz. of flour, 1 finely-
chopped onion, pepper and salt.
Method. — Cover the tripe with cold water, bring it to boil, drain
well, and cut into i-inch squares. Replace it in the stewpan, add the
milk, onion, and a seasoning of salt and pepper, bring to the boil, and
simmer very gently for 2 hours. 10 minutes before serving, add the
flour mixed smoothly with a little cold milk, stir until boiling, simmer
for 5 minutes longer, and serve.
Time. — 2\ hours. Average Cost, iod.
Jellies
3229. — AMBER JELLY.
Ingredients. — 2 eggs, 6 ozs. of loaf or castor sugar, 1 oz. of sheet gela-
tine, J a pint of water, J of a pint of lemon-juice, \ of a pint of sherry,
Madeira, or Marsala, the thinly cut rind of 1 lemon.
Method. — Soak the gelatine in the cold water for about 20 minutes,
turn both into a stewpan, add the eggs slightly beaten, the shells
crushed and the rest of the ingredients. Whisk until nearly boiling,
then strain, let it cool slightly, and turn into a mould rinsed with cold
water. Turn out when firm.
Time. — To make the jelly, \ an hour. Average Cost, is. to is. 2d.
3230. — BEEF JELLY.
Ingredients. — 1 pint of beef tea, 1 oz. of gelatine, salt and pepper.
Method. — Dissolve the gelatine in 2 tablespoonfuls of hot water,
add it to the beef tea, and season to taste. Stir until beginning to
RECIPES FOR INVALID COOKERY
I37i
set, then pour into small moulds, and put aside until firm. In cases
where all nourishment must be administered cold or iced, the above
recipe will be found useful.
Time. — 2 or 3 hours. Average Cost, is. 2d. to is. 4d.
3231. — CALF’S FOOT JELLY.
Ingredients. — 2 calves’ feet, 5 pints of water, \ a pint of sherry, 1 of a
pint of lemon-juice, 6 ozs. of loaf sugar, the rinds of 3 lemons, the whites
and shells of 2 eggs, 1 inch of cinnamon, 4 cloves.
Method. — Wash and blanch the feet, and divide each one into 4 pieces.
Replace them in the stewpan, add the water, and boil gently for 6
hours, skimming when necessary. Strain and measure the stock,
and if there is more than 1 quart, boil until reduced to this quantity.
When cold remove every particle of grease, turn the jellied stock into
a stewpan, and add the lemon-rinds, pared off in the thinnest possible
strips, the lemon-juice, sherry, sugar, the stiffly- whisked whites and
crushed shells of the eggs, and the cinnamon and cloves. Whisk until
boiling, then draw the stewpan to the side of the fire, and let the con-
tents simmer for 10 minutes. Strain through a scalded jelly-bag,
or scalded tea-cloth tied to the legs of a chair reversed, and turn into
moulds rinsed with cold water. Turn out when firm, and serve.
Time. — 12 hours. Average Cost, 3s, 6d.
3232. — EGG JELLY.
Ingredients. — 2 eggs, 5 ozs. of loaf sugar, 1 oz. of gelatine, 2 lemons.
Method. — Rub the sugar on the lemon-rind, squeeze and strain the
juice, and make up to 1 pint with cold water. When using Nelson’s
gelatine, stir it into the lemon-juice and water, and let it soak for at
least 1 hour; soak sheet gelatine from 15 to 20 minutes. When ready,
turn it into a stewpan, and stir over the fire until the gelatine is dissolved.
Separate the whites and yolks of the eggs, whisk the former to a stiff
froth, beat the latter slightly and add them, with the sugar, to the
contents of the stewpan. Stir by the side of the fire until the sugar is
dissolved and the yolks of egg sufficiently cooked, but if allowed to
boil it may curdle. Mix in, off the fire and as lightly as possible, the
whites of egg, turn into a mould rinsed with cold water, and when
firm unmould and serve. A more solid variety may be made by
beating both yolks and whites together.
Time. — \ an hour. Average Cost, 6d.
3233. — IRISH MOSS JELLY.
Ingredients. — \ an oz. of Irish moss, 1 pint of water, \ a glass of sherry,
1 dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, sugar to taste.
1372
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Wash the moss thoroughly, and soak it in cold water for
12 hours. Strain, put it into a stewpan with i pint of water, and
simmer gently for 5 hours, adding more water as evaporation occurs,
so as to keep the quantity of liquid to one pint. Strain, sweeten to
taste, add the lemon-juice and sherry, and turn into a mould previously
rinsed with cold water. Irish moss possesses medicinal properties,
but the flavour is somewhat unpalatable, hence the necessity of dis-
guising it with sherry, lemon-juice or other flavouring ingredients.
Time.— 17 hours. Average Cost, 5d.
3234. — MILK JELLY.
Ingredients. — 1 pint of milk, i-| ozs. of loaf or castor sugar, £ an oz. of
sheet gelatine, the thinly cut rind of 3- of a lemon.
Method. — Infuse the lemon-rind in the milk for about 20 minutes,
then add the sugar and gelatine, stir until the latter is dissolved, and
take out the lemon-rind. Turn the preparation into a basin, and stir
from time to time until it attains the consistency of thick cream.
Have ready 1 large mould, or small moulds, rinsed with cold water,
pour in the mixture, and place on ice or in a cold place until set.
Time. — 2 or 3 hours. Average Cost, sd.
3235. — PORT WINE JELLY.
Ingredients. — \ a pint of port wine, \ a gill of water, 1 teaspoonful of
red-currant jelly, \ an oz. of gelatine, \ an oz. of loaf sugar, carmine or
cochineal.
Method. — Soak the gelatine in the water for about 20 minutes, then
turn both into a stewpan, and add the sugar and red-currant jelly.
Stir until dissolved, add the port and a few drops of carmine or cochineal
to brighten the colour, and strain through muslin, 'furn into dariol
moulds rinsed with cold water, and turn out when firm.
Time. — 2 or 3 hours. Average Cost, is. 3d. to is. 6d.
3236. — RESTORATIVE JELLY.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of shin of beef, 1 ox foot, 1 quart of cold water,
\ a teaspoonful of salt.
Method. — Wash and blanch the foot, and divide it into small pieces.
Cut the beef into small pieces, place it with the prepared ox foot, water
and salt in a jar with a close-fitting lid, and cover with 3 or 4 folds of
greased paper. Have ready a saucepan of boiling water, in it place
the jar, and cook slowly for at least 7 hours. Then strain, skim, season
to tas'ee, and pour into a previously wetted mould. This preparation,
although intended to be served as a jelly, will be found excellent when
warmed and served as a soup.
Time.— 7 hours. Average Cost, is. 3d.
Note. — Many useful recipes for jellies suitable for convalescents will be
found in the chapter dealing exclusively with creams and jellies.
RECIPES FOR INVALID COOKERY
1373
3237. — RICE JELLY.
Ingredients. — 2 ozs. of rice, 1 quart of boiling water, 1 inch of cinna-
mon, sugar to taste.
Method. — Pick and wash the rice, put it into the boiling water with
the cinnamon, and boil gently for about f of an hour, or until the water
becomos thick and starchy. Strain, sweeten to taste, and pour into
small moulds rinsed with water. Turn out when firm.
Time. — 2 or 3 hours. Average Cost, id.
Puddings, Etc.
3238. — ARROWROOT SOUFFLE.
Ingredients. — 1 oz. of arrowroot, an oz. of sugar, 2 eggs, \ a pint of
milk, bay-leaf or other flavouring.
Method. — Mix the arrowroot smoothly with a little cold milk, boil the
remainder with the flavouring ingredient, and let it infuse for 10 or
15 minutes. Strain on to the arrowroot, stirring briskly meanwhile,
return the preparation to the stewpan, and simmer gently for about
10 minutes. Add the sugar, beat each yolk separately into the mixture,
and lastly stir in the stiffly-whisked whites. Have ready a well-
buttered china baking-dish, pour in the preparation, and bake in a
moderately hot oven from 25 to 30 minutes.
Time. — 1 hour. Average Cost, qd.
3239. — ARROWROOT SOUFFLE. (Another Method.)
Ingredients.— 1 oz. of arrowroot, \ an oz. of sugar, 2 eggs, } a pint of
milk, vanilla or other flavouring, salt.
Method. — Mix the arrowroot smoothly with a little cold milk, boil
up the remainder, and pour it over the arrowroot, stirring briskly
meanwhile. Return to the saucepan, add the sugar, a few drops of
vanilla essence and a pinch of salt, and stir and cook over the fire
until the mixture leaves the sides of the saucepan. Cool slightly, beat
each yolk in separately, and stir in as lightly as possible the whites of
eggs previously stiffly whisked. Pour the preparation into a buttered
pie-dish, and bake gently from 20 to 25 minutes.
Time. — From 30 to 35 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. Sufficient for 2
persons.
3240.— BARLEY CUSTARD PUDDING.
Ingredients. — 1 oz. of patent barley, \ an oz. of butter, 1 teaspoonful
of castor sugar, 1 large egg, \ a pint of milk, salt, nutmeg.
1374
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Mix the barlev smoothly with a little cold milk, boil up the
remainder, and pour it over the barley, stirring meanwhile. Add the
butter, sugar, and a pinch of salt, replace in the stewpan, and stir the
mixture until it boils. Cool slightly, beat in the yolk of egg, and lastly
add the white of egg previously stiffly whisked. Turn into a buttered
pie-dish, grate a little nutmeg on the top, and bake gently for io minutes.
Time. — 20 minutes. Average Cost, 3UI Sufficient for 1 or 2 persons.
Note. — Many puddings suitable for invalids and convalescents will be found
in the chapter devoted exclusively to puddings and hot sweets.
3241. - CARRAGEEN BLANCMANGE.
Ingredients. — 1 teacupful of carrageen (Irish sea-moss), sugar to
taste, vanilla-essence to taste, 1 saltspoonful of salt, 1 quart of milk.
Method. — Pick and wash the moss, let it lie in cold water for 15
minutes, then drain well, and tie it loosely in coarse net or muslin. Put
it into a double saucepan with the milk and salt, cook until the milk
will jelly w'hen a little is poured on a cold plate, and sweeten to taste.
Strain, add vanilla essence to taste, and pour the preparation into
small moulds previously rinsed with cold water.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 5d.
3242. — CUSTARD MOULD.
Ingredients. — 3 eggs, 1 oz. of castor sugar, |- of an oz. of gelatine, 1
pint of milk, vanilla pod, bay-leaf or other flavouring.
Method. — Boil the flavouring ingredient in the milk, and infuse for
about 20 minutes. Beat the eggs lightly, pour over them the hot, but
not boiling, milk, stirring well meanwhile, and add the sugar. Return
to the stewpan, cook by the side of the fire until the eggs thicken,
but do not let them boil, then pour the preparation on to the gelatine
in a basin. Stir until dissolved, then turn into a mould or dariol
moulds rinsed with cold water. When firm turn out, and serve with a
little wine sauce or fruit syrup.
Time. — \ an hour. Average Cost, 8d.
3243. — PORRIDGE, ( See Recipe No. 3149.).
3244. — IRISH MOSS BLANCMANGE.
Ingredients. — \ a pint of milk, 1 tablcspoonful of Irish moss, flavouring,
salt.
Method. — Wash the moss in several waters, and pick it over care-
fully Put it into a stewpan, with the milk and a pinch of salt, bring
to the boil and simmer for a few minutes, or until it thickens when a
RECIPES FOR INVALID COOKERY
1375
little is dropped on a cold plate. Strain and flavour to taste, pour
into small moulds previously rinsed with cold water, and when firm
turn out and serve.
Time. — 2 hours. Average Cost, 2d.
3245. — SEMOLINA CREAM.
Ingredients. — 1 oz. of semolina, 1 pints of milk, \ an oz. of gelatine,
sugar and flavouring to taste.
Method. — Soak the semolina in a j of a pint of milk for i hour, then
put it into a stewpan with another | pint of milk, and simmer gently
for about \ an hour. Boil the remaining C pint of milk, pour it over
the gelatine, and stir until it is dissolved. Mix this with the semolina,
sweeten and flavour to taste, stir until the cream is beginning to set,
and pour into a wet mould. Turn out when set.
Time. — 2 hours. Average Cost, 4jd.
3246. — SUET PUDDING.
Ingredients. — 3 ozs. of finely-chopped beef suet, i|-ozs. of sugar, 6 ozs.
of flour, 1 egg, \ a teaspoonful of baking powder, salt.
Method. — Mix the suet, flour, sugar, baking powder, and a pinch of
salt together, and beat and add the egg. Mix well, turn into well-
greased dariol moulds, cover with buttered paper, and steam from
50 to 60 minutes. Serve with honey, jam, or golden syrup.
Time. —To cook the puddings, from 50 to 60 minutes. Average Cost,
3-fd. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
Beverages
3247. — APPLE TEA.
Ingredients. — 2 or 3 sour cooking apples, sugar to taste.
Method. — Peel and slice the apples, cover them with boiling water,
let them remain covered in a basin placed in a tin of hot water on the
stove until soft but not broken, then strain, sweeten to taste, and use
as required.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 1 Jd. to 2d. per pint.
3248. — APPLE WATER.
Ingredients. — 2 large apples, 1 tablespoonful of castor sugar, 1 table-
spoonful of lemon-juice, 1 thinly-cut rind of £ a lemon, 1 pint of boiling
water.
Method. — Peel the apples, cut them into slices, and put them into a
jug with the sugar, lemon-rind and lemon-juice. Pour over the boiling
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1376
water, let the jug stand covered until the contents are quite cold,
then strain. If preferred, the apples may be previously roasted.
Time. — 1 hour. Average Cost, 3d.
3249. — ARROWROOT.
Ingredients. — 1 dessertspoonful of arrowroot, 1 teaspoonful of castor
sugar, % a pint of milk or water.
Method. — Mix the arrowroot smoothly with a little cold milk, boil
the remainder and pour it on, stirring briskly meanwhile. Return to
the stewpan, and boil for 5 minutes, stirring all the time. Add the
sugar, and serve. If preferred, an equal quantity of water may be
substituted for the milk.
Time. — 10 minutes. Average Cost, ijd.
3250. — ARROWROOT AND BLACK-CURRANT TEA.
Ingredients. — 2 tablespoonfuls of black-currant jam, 1 tablespoonful
of arrowroot, 1 quart of water.
Method. — Put the jam and water into a stewpan, bring to the boil,
and simmer gently for % an hour. Strain, return the liquid to the stew-
pan, and bring again to boiling point. Mix the arrowroot smoothly
with a little cold water, pour it into the stewpan, and boil gently for
about 10 minutes. Pour into a jug, stir from time to time until
cold, and use.
Time. — 45 minutes. Average Cost, 3d.
3251. — BARLEY WATER.
Ingredients. — 2 ozs. of pearl barley, 2 or 3 lumps of sugar, the thinly
pared rind of 3 a small lemon, 1 pint of boiling water.
Method. — Cover the barley with cold water, boil for 2 minutes, and
strain. Place the barley, sugar and lemon-rind in a jug, pour in the
boiling water, and cover closely. When cold, strain and use. This forms
a nutritious, agreeable drink, and it is also largely used to dilute milk,
thus making it easier of digestion.
Time. — 1 hour. Average Cost, i-Jd.
3252. — BARLEY WATER. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 1 oz. of pearl barley, 1 quart of cold water, the thinly-
pared rind of 1 lemon, the juice of 1 lemon (if allowed), sugar to taste.
Method. — Blanch the barley, then strain and return it to the stewpan.
Add the water, simmer gently for \ an hour, then put in the lemon-rind
and continue the cooking for -1- an hour longer. When ready, strain
into a jug, add the lemon-juice and sugar, and when cold use as re-
quired.
Time. — i-| hours. Average Cost, ifd.
A very nutritious and extremely pleasant drink’ may be quickly and easily
prepared by using Patent Barley. Directions for making it are given with
each packet.
RECIPES FOR INVALID COOKERY
1377
3253. — BARLEY GRUEL.
Ingredients. — r tablespoonful of Patent Barley (flour), a pinch of
salt, a little cold water, £ a pint of boiling water (or milk), sugar or
port to taste.
Method. — Mix the barley well with cold water until a smooth paste,
about the thickness of cream, is formed ; then add \ a pint of boiling
water (or milk, which is preferable) ; put into an enamelled saucepan,
add sugar or wine to taste, simmer for 10 minutes, stirring all the time
with a silver or wooden spoon.
Time.— 10 minutes. Sufficient to make \ a pint. Average Cost, 2^d.
without spirit.
3254. — BLACK-CURRANT TEA.
Ingredients. — 1 dessertspoonful of black-currant jam, 1 teaspoonful
of lemon-juice, 1 teaspoonful of castor sugar, \ a pint of boiling water.
Method. — Put the jam, sugar and lemon-juice into a jug, pour on the
boiling water, and stir well. Cover with a plate or saucer, and let the
jug stand by the side of the fire for 15 or 20 minutes. Strain and use
hot as a remedy for a cold, or allow it to become cold, and use as a
beverage to alleviate thirst or hoarseness.
Time. — 20 minutes. Average Cost, 2d.
3255. — BRANDY AND EGG MIXTURE. (Dr. P.
Muskett.)
Ingredients. — 2 ozs. of best brandy, 2 ozs. of cinnamon water, the yolk
of 1 egg, y of an oz. of loaf sugar.
Method. — “ Beat the yolk of egg and sugar together, and add the
cinnamon water and brandy. From \ a teaspoonful to 1 teaspoonful
may be given to infants, and proportionately increased quantities
to children, every hour, in extreme weakness. It is one of the most
powerful and palatable restoratives known, and often proves of incal-
culable value.”
3256. BRAN TEA.
Ingredients. —2 tablespoonfuls of bran, 1 tablespoonful of honey,
\ of an oz. of gum arabic, 1 pint of water.
Method. — Boil the bran in the water for 20 minutes. Add the gum
arabic and honey, stir from time to time until dissolved, and strain
through muslin. A useful remedy for hoarseness and sore throat.
Time. — \ an hour. Average Cost, 2d.
3257. — BRAN TEA. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 1 pint of wheat bran, 1 quart of boiling water, sugar
and cream to taste.
Method. — Put the bran and water into a double saucepan, or failing
this, an earthenware jar, and let it stand where it will keep hot, but
Y Y
1378
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
not boil, for i hour. Strain, sweeten to taste, and add a little cream
when serving it.
Time. — i hour. Average Cost, 2d.
3258. — CARRAGEEN CHOCOLATE.
Ingredients. — 1 oz. of carrageen (Irish sea-moss), 1 oz. of chocolate
grated, sugar to taste, i£ pints of milk.
Method. — Wash and soak the moss ( see Recipe No. 3241), put it into
a saucepan with 1 pint of cold water, and bring to the boil. Boil the
milk, add the chocolate, stir until dissolved, then add the moss and
water from the other pan. Strain, sweeten to taste, and serve in
glasses while quite warm.
Time. — 25 minutes. Average Cost, sd. or 6 d.
Note. — “ Carrageen Water ” may be made by substituting water for the
milk ; cinnamon or lemon-rind should be added.
3259. — CAUDLE.
Ingredients. — J.a pint of milk, J of a pint of water, 1 wineglassful of
sherry or brandy, 1 tablespoonful of fine oatmeal, 1 tablespoonful of
castor sugar, the fmely-cut rind of \ of a lemon, a little nutmeg.
Method. — Put the oatmeal, lemon-rind, water and milk into a stew-
pan, bring it to the boil, and simmer gently for 15 minutes. Stir in
the brandy, sugar and nutmeg, remove the lemon-rind, and serve.
Time. — 30 minutes. Average Cost, 5d. to 6d.
3260. — EGG AND BRANDY.
Ingredients. — 1 egg, 1 tablespoonful of good brandy, 1 tablespoonful
of either hot or cold water, castor sugar to taste.
Method. — Beat the egg well in a cup, add a little sugar, and the water
and brandy, and mix well. Strain into a tumbler, and serve.
Time. — 5 minutes. Average Cost, sd.
3261. — EGG AND WINE.
Ingredients. — 1 egg, 1 small teaspoonful of castor sugar, 1 glass of
port or sherry, an equal quantity of boiling water.
Method. — Beat the egg well in a cup, add the sugar, and when
dissolved, pour on the hot water, and lastly the wine. Strain into a
tumbler, and serve.
Time. — 5 minutes. Average Cost, sd. or 6d.
3262. — EGG FLIP.
Ingredients. — 1 egg, 1 glass of port, sherry or brandy, 1 teaspoonful
of castor sugar.
Method. — Separate the white and yolk of the egg, whisk the former
to a stiff froth, and put the latter into a tumbler. Add the sugar,
and stir with a teaspoon until creamy. Put in the wine, stir in the
prepared white as lightly as possible, and serve.
Time. — 10 minutes. Average Cost, 6d.
RECIPES FOR INVALID COOKERY
1379
3263. — EGG FLIP. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 1 white of egg, j of a pint of milk, 1 tablespoonful of
brandy or sherry.
Method. — Mix the brandy or wine and the milk together in a tumbler,
and, if liked, add a little castor sugar. Beat the white of egg to a stiff
froth, stir it lightly in, and serve.
Time. — 5 minutes. Average Cost, 4-Id.
3264. — EGG NOG.
Ingredients. — 1 white of egg, 1 tablespoonful of sherry or brandy,
1 tablespoonful of cream, castor sugar to taste.
Method.— Put the wine or brandy into a tumbler, add the cream and
a little sugar, and mix well. Whisk the white of egg to a stiff froth,
stir it lightly into the contents of the tumbler, and serve.
Time. — 5 minutes. Average Cost, 5d.
3265. — EGG NOG. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 1 egg, 1 tablespoonful of brandy, 1 small teaspoonful
of castor sugar, of a pint of milk.
Method. — Beat the egg in a cup, add the brandy and sugar, and mix
well. Strain into a tumbler, stir in the milk, and serve.
Time. — 5 minutes. Average Cost, 5d.
3266. — EGG NOG, HOT.
Ingredients. — The yolk of 1 egg, 1 pint of milk, 1 tablespoonful of
castor sugar, 1 tablespoonful of brandy or whisky.
Method. — Beat the yolk of egg and sugar well together, then stir in
the brandy or whisky. Bring the milk to boiling point, then pour it
over the mixed ingredients, stir well, and serve.
Time. — 10 minutes. Average Cost, 6d.
3267. — GRUEL, BARLEY.
Ingredients.— 1 oz. of pearl barley, of a pint of water, 1 small glass of
port wine (optional), 1 teaspoonful of castor sugar, the thinly-cut rind
of j of a lemon.
Method. — Blanch and strain the barley, replace it in the stewpan
with the water and lemon-rind, and Simmer for 20 minutes. Strain,
sweeten to taste, add the port wine, and serve.
Time. — I an hour. Average Cost, 6d., exclusive of wine.
3268. — GRUEL, OATMEAL.
Ingredients. — 1 tablespoonful of fine oatmeal, 1 pint of water, or milk
and water mixed, sugar to taste, a pinch of salt.
1380
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Mix the oatmeal with a little cold water, boil the remainder,
pour in the blended oatmeal, and stir until boiling. Simmer gently
for -1- an hour, stirring frequently. Strain, add a pinch of salt, and
sweeten to taste. Nutmeg, ginger, butter or cream are frequently
added when the gruel is intended as a remedy for a cold.
Time.— 35 minutes. Average Cost, 2}d., when milk is used.
3269. — GRUEL, OATMEAL. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 1 tablespoonful of coarse oatmeal, \ a pint of cold
water, sugar to taste, salt.
Method. — Soak the oatmeal in the cold water for 3 hours, then pour
the water off into a stewpan. Boil until it thickens, stirring occa-
sionally, add a pinch of salt, sweeten and flavour to taste, and serve.
Time. — 3b hours. Average Cost, ^-d.
Note. — A very nutritious gruel can also be made with Patent Groats.
Directions are given with each packet.
3270. — GRUEL, SAGO.
Ingredients. — 1 dessertspoonful of fine sago, 1 dessertspoonful of
castor sugar, 4 a pint of boiling water, 1 glass of port wine.
Method. — Let the water be quite boiling in a stewpan, then sprinkle
in the sago and boil gently until it is quite clear, stirring from time
to time. Add the sugar and wine, and serve.
Time. — 10 minutes. Average Cost, 4^d.
3271. — IRISH MOSS.
Ingredients. — \ an oz. of Irish moss, 1 dessertspoonful of castor sugar,
1 dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, 1 tablespoonful of wine or brandy,
1 pint of cold water.
Method. — Wash the moss well, then put it into a stewpan with the
cold water, and simmer gently for 1 hour. Strain, add the sugar,
lemon-juice and wine or brandy, and serve.
Time. — 1 hour. Average Cost, 5d.
3272. — LEMONADE.
Ingredients. — The juice of 2 lemons, the rind of 1 lemon, 1 pint of
boiling water, 4 or 5 lumps of sugar, or to taste.
Method. — Remove the rind of 1 lemon in thin, fine strips, place them
in a jug, add the strained juice' of 2 lemons, and the sugar. Pour in
the boiling water, cover, let it stand until cold, then strain, and use.
Time. — 2 or 3 hours. Average Cost, 2d.
3273. — LEMONADE. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — The juice of 2 lemons, 1 tablespoonful of castor sugar,
1 pint of cold water, ice if allowed.
RECIPES FOR INVALID COOKERY
1381
Method. — Squeeze and strain the lemon-juice into a jug, add the
sugar, and stir until it is dissolved. Pour in the water, add a few
small pieces of ice, and serve.
Time.— 5 minutes. Average Cost, 2d.
3274. — LEMON SQUASH.
Ingredients. — 1 lemon, 1 small bottle of soda water, 1 teaspoonful of
castor sugar.
Method. — Squeeze and strain the lemon-juice into a tumbler, add the
sugar, pour in the soda water, and serve at once.
Time. — 5 minutes. Average Cost, 3d.
3275. — LEMON WHEY.
Ingredients. — 1 pint of milk, the juice of 1 lemon, castor sugar to taste.
Method. — Heat the milk in a double saucepan, or in a jar placed in a
saucepan of boiling water. Add the lemon-juice, sweeten to taste,
continue cooking until the curd separates, then drain off the whey,
and serve it either hot or cold.
Time. — t an hour. Average Cost, 3d.
3276. — LINSEED TEA.
Ingredients. — 1 oz. of whole linseed, an oz. of liquorice, -J- an oz. of
sugar candy, the juice of -§• a lemon, the finely-cut rind of J of a lemon,
1 pint of cold water.
Method. — Wash and drain the linseed, and simmer it with the water,
liquorice and lemon-rind for about -|- an hour. Add the sugar candy,
and when dissolved, strain and stir in the lemon-juice.
Time. — 40 minutes. Average Cost, 3d.
3277. — MILK AND BAKED FLOUR.
Ingredients. — an oz. of baked flour, \ a pint of milk, 1 teaspoonful
of castor sugar.
Method. — Bake the flour in a baking-tin in the oven until it acquires
a pale fawn colour, then mix it smoothly with a little of the milk. Boil
the remainder of the milk, pour in the blended flour, and simmer gently
for 10 minutes, stirring continuously. Stir in the sugar, and serve.
Time. — 20 minutes. Average Cost, i-Jd.
3278. — POSSET, TREACLE.
Ingredients. — 2 tablespoonfuls of treacle, the juice of \ a lemon,
-} a pint of milk.
Method. — Bring the milk to the boil, and pour in the treacle and lemon-
juice. As soon as it has curdled, strain through muslin, and serve as a
remedy for a cold.
Time. — 5 minutes. Average Cost, 2d.
1382
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
3279. — POSSET, MILK.
Ingredients. — 1 pint of milk, 1 tablespoonful of brandy or sherry,
1 dessertspoonful of castor sugar, nutmeg to taste, 2 moderately thin
slices of stale bread, salt.
Method. — Cut the bread into small dice, put it into a soup bowl, and
sprinkle over it a pinch of salt, a pinch of nutmeg, and the sugar.
Bring the milk nearly to boiling point, pour it over the bread, let the
bowl stand covered for 10 minutes, then stir in the brandy, and serve.
Time. — 20 minutes. Average Cost, 5d.
3280. — RICE WATER. (Dr. Pavy.)
Ingredients. — 1 oz. of Carolina rice, 1 quart of cold water, flavouring.
Method. — “Wash well 1 oz. of Carolina rice with cold water. Then
macerate for 3 hours in a quart of water kept at tepid heat, and after-
wards boil slowly for 1 hour, and strain. May be flavoured with
lemon peel, cloves, or other spice.” This preparation is useful in dysen-
tery, diarrhoea, etc.
Time. — 4 hours.
3281. — TOAST WATER.
Ingredients. — 1 crust of bread, 1 pint of cold water.
Method. — Toast the bread very brown and hard, but do not burn it,
or it will impart a disagreeable flavour to the water. Put it into a jug,
pour over it the cold water, let it soak for 1 hour, then strain and use.
Time. — hours.
3282. — WHEY. ( See Curds and Whey, No. 2998 ;
Lemon Whey, No. 3275 ; and White Wine
Whey, No. 3284.)
3283. — WHITE OF EGG AND SODA WATER.
Ingredients. - 1 white of egg, 1 tablespoonful of brandy, sherry or lemon-
juice, \ of a pint of soda-water, £ of a teaspoonful of castor sugar.
Method.— Whisk the white of egg to a stiff troth, add the sugar, and
turn it into a tumbler. Mix the brandy lightly in, pour in the soda
water, and serve at once. The yolk of egg, or a whole egg, can be used
in the same way.
Time. — 5 minutes. Average Cost, 3d.
3284. — WHITE WINE WHEY.
Ingredients. — l- a pint of milk, \ a glass of sherry, sugar to taste.
Method. — Put the milk and wine into a small stewpan, simmer gently
until the milk curdles, then strain through a line sieve. The whey
should be served hot; the curds, t lie indigestible part of the milk, are
not used.
Time. — 3 minutes. Average Cost, 3 3d.
RECIPES FOR INVALID COOKERY
!38 3
Peptonized Foods
Peptonized foods are most valuable for those who suffer from severe
indigestion, also in cases of dyspepsia and gastritis, or when the patient
is unable to take milk in its natural form.
The chief peptonizing agents are pepsine and liquor pancreaticus,
and the food when acted upon becomes partially predigested and conse-
quently more readily absorbed. When the natural digestive juices are
deficient, and the stomach is unable to properly perform its office,
those who suffer from this cause may, by employing one of these valu-
able agents, be supplied with more varied food than they would other-
wise be able to digest. During the process of peptonization a slightly
bitter taste is developed, but this may be arrested before it becomes
too pronounced by bringing whatever is being acted upon quickly to
boiling point. The following simple recipes will sufficiently illustrate
the principles of peptonization.
3285. — PEPTONIZED BEEF TEA.
Ingredients. — -} a lb. of finely-shredded lean beef, 1 teaspoonful of
liquor pancreaticus, 20 grains of bi-carbonate of soda, \ a pint of water,
a pinch of salt.
Method. — Put the water, beef and bi-carbonate of soda into a stew-
pan, heat slowly to 140° F., stirring gently meanwhile, and keep at this
temperature for about } an hour. Remove from the fire, and when it
has cooled down to a lukewarm temperature, add the liquor pancrea-
ticus, and allow the vessel to remain covered in a warm place for about
1 hour. Then strain, bring to the boil, season to taste, and serve.
Time. — if- hours. Average Cost, is.
3286. — PEPTONIZED BEEF TEA JELLY.
Ingredients. — J a pint of peptonized beef tea, \ an oz. of sheet gelatine.
Method. — Make the beef tea as directed in the preceding recipe, then
strain and bring to boiling point. Soften the gelatine in a little cold
water, add it to the beef tea, and stir until dissolved. Strain into a
mould previously rinsed with cold water, and keep in a cold place until
set.
Time. — 2 hours. Average Cost, is. id.
3287. — PEPTONIZED MILK.
Ingredients. — \ a pint of milk, 7J- of a pint of water, 1 dessertspoonful
of liquor pancreaticus, 20 grains of bi-carbonate of soda.
Method. — Put the milk and water into an enamelled stewpan, heat
it to 140° F., then pour it into a jug containing the liquor pancreaticus
1384
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
and bi-carbonate of soda. Cover the jug, wrap it in flannel, and let
it stand in a warm, but not hot, place for 1 hour. Boil up to prevent
the bitter taste becoming too much developed. Milk thus prepared
can be used for various preparations, or it may be served as ordinary
milk, either hot or cold.
Time. — 1^ hours. Average Cost, 4d.
3288. — PEPTONIZED GRUEL.
Ingredients. — \ a pint of thick gruel, \ a pint of fresh milk, 1 dessert-
spoonful of liquor pancreaticus, 20 grains of bi-carbonate of soda.
Method. — Make the gruel from any farinaceous food preferred ( see
preceding recipes), and add to it the cold milk. Stir the liquor pan-
creaticus and bi-carbonate of soda at once into this warm preparation,
cover, and keep it at the same temperature for about \ an hour. Boil
for a few minutes, sweeten and flavour to taste, then serve.
Time. — 40 minutes. Average Cost, 5d.
3289. — PEPTONIZED SOUPS.
Any puree or stock forming the basis of soup may be peptonized
by adding to each pint 1 tablespoonful of liquor pancreaticus and 20
grains of bi-carbonate of soda. As soon as the right stage of peptoniza-
tion is reached the soup should at once be boiled, otherwise an unplea-
sant bitter flavour will be imparted to the preparation.
Diabetic Foods
3290. — ALMOND BREAD.
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of almond meal, 2 tablespoonfuls of gluten meal,
1 teaspoonful of baking powder, 1 oz. of butter, 2 eggs, salt.
Method. — Mix the meal, salt, and baking powder together, and add
the butter previously well beaten. Add the eggs separately, beat well,
then bake in a shallow tin from 20 to 25 minutes.
Time. — 1 hour.
3291. — ALMOND BREAD. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of almond meal, 2 tablespoonfuls of prepared
bran, 1 oz. of butter, 1 egg, 1 teaspoonful of baking powder, 1 table-
spoonful of milk (about).
Method. — Prepare and bake as directed in the preceding recipe.
This bread, as well as the above, will be found extremely palatable
if, when cool, it is cut into pieces the size of an ordinary rusk, and
browned in a moderate oven.
Time.— 1 hour.
RECIPES FOR INVALID COOKERY
I3§5
3292. — ALMOND SPONGE, BAKED.
Ingredients. — 1 oz. of almond flour, 2 whites of eggs, salt, and sac-
charine to taste.
Method. — Whisk the whites stiffly, stir in the flour lightly, and add a
pinch of salt and saccharine to taste. Bake from 15 to 20 minutes
in a hot oven. The saccharine may be omitted, and the preparation
will then be found a good substitute for bread.
Time. — 30 minutes.
3293. — COCOANUT CAKES.
Ingredients. — 2 ozs. of unsweetened cocoanut, 2 ozs. of almond flour,
1 oz. of butter, 1 egg, milk, saccharine, salt.
Method. — Cream the butter, add the almond flour, cocoanut, saccha-
rine, and a pinch of salt, and, when well mixed, stir in the egg and as
much milk as will form a stiff mixture. Place it in small heaps on a
greased tin, and bake in a quick oven from 15 to 20 minutes.
Time. — 30 minutes.
3294. - CUSTARD.
Ingredients. — ^ a pint of milk, 2 eggs, saccharine, flavouring, salt.
Method. — Beat the eggs, add the milk, a good pinch of salt, and
sweeten and flavour to taste. The preparation may be baked in a pie-
dish, steamed in a basin, or cooked in a jug placed in a saucepan of
boiling water. Savoury custard may be made by substituting salt,
pepper, and parsley for the saccharine and flavouring, and some or all
of the milk should be replaced by good white stock.
Time. — f- of an hour. Average Cost, 4d.
3295. -EGG JELLY.
Ingredients. — \ a pint of water, the juice of 2 lemons, thin rind of 1
lemon, £ of an oz. of gelatine, 1 egg, saccharine.
Method. — Put all the ingredients into a saucepan, and stir the mixture
by the side of the fire until the gelatine is dissolved. Strain into a
mould, and turn out the jelly when set.
Time. — 1 hour. Average Cost, 5d.
3296.- — FISH.
Fish of every description is allowed, and the usual methods of cook-
ing may be applied, except frying in deep fat, the breadcrumbs or
flour batter used in preparing fish thus cooked being prohibited.
1386
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
3297. — HARICOT BEAN TEA.
Ingredients. — \ of a pint of white haricot beans, i quart of water, a
bay-leaf, i clove, 2 or 3 sprigs of parsley, salt and pepper, 2 or 3 table-
spoonfuls of cream.
Method. — Soak the beans for 12 hours, then wash them well, and
put them into a well-lined stewpan. Add the water, bay-leaf, clove,
parsley and a little salt, boil gently for 3 hours, and strain through a
fine strainer. Let the tea stand for 15 or 20 minutes, then pour care-
fully into a clean stewpan, taking care not to disturb the sediment.
Re-heat, add the cream, season to taste, and serve.
Time. — 3J- hours. Average Cost, qd.
3298. - LENTIL FLOUR GRUEL.
Ingredients. — 1 quart of milk (or milk and water), ozs. of lentil
flour, sugar to taste, flavouring if liked, salt.
Method. — Mix the flour smoothly with a little milk, boil up the
remainder, and pour it over the blended flour. Replace in the sauce-
pan, stir and boil gently for 5 minutes, then add a good pinch of salt,
saccharine to taste, and cover closely. Simmer gently for A an hour,
stirring occasionally, then add a little ginger, nutmeg, or any flavour-
ing preferred, and serve.
Time. — About 45 minutes. Average Cost, 5d. to 6d. Sufficient for
3 or 4 persons.
3299. — MEAT, POULTRY, GAME.
The ordinary methods of cooking are applied, but all gravies and
sauces must be entirely free from root vegetables, flour and other
starchy substances.
3300. — MILK JELLY.
Ingredients. — \ a pint of milk, £ of an oz. of gelatine, saccharine,
lemon-rind or other flavouring.
Method. — Infuse 2 or 3 fine strips of lemon-rind in the milk for 10
minutes, add the saccharine and gelatine, and stir by the side of the
fire until the latter is dissolved. Strain into a mould, and turn out
when set.
Time. — 1 hour. Average Cost, 3d.
3301. — SAUCES.
Ingredients. — 2 ozs. of butter, i\ ozs. of gluten flour, 1 pint of
stock, milk, or water.
Method. — Melt the butter in a saucepan, add the gluten flour, and,
when well mixed, put in the stock, milk or water. Stir and boil for a few
minutes, season to taste, and serve. A sweet sauce is made by adding
RECIPES FOR INVALID COOKERY
1387
saccharine and flavouring, instead of salt and pepper ; and yolks of
eggs and cream may partially, or entirely, replace the gluten flour.
Time. — 15 minutes. Average Cost, 5d.
3302.— SOUFFLES (SWEET AND SAVOURY).
Ingredients. — 2 ozs. of almond flour, or gluten flour, \ a pint of
milk, 2 eggs.
Method. — Mix the almond flour or gluten flour smoothly with a little
milk, boil up the remainder, and add the flour. Stir and cook over the
fire until thick, add saccharine and flavouring to taste, and beat in the
yolks of eggs. Whisk the whites stiffly, stir them lightly in, pour the
mixture into a buttered pie-dish, and bake in a quick oven for 20 minutes.
A savoury souffle may be made by adding salt and savoury season-
ing instead of sugar ; and when making a fish souffle, fish stock should
replace the milk.
Time. — 40 minutes.
3303- S0UPS-
Soups may be made from meat, game, poultry or fish, but they must
contain no root vegetables or starchy substances. Such vegetables
as cabbage, lettuce or spinach are allowed, and the soup may be thick-
ened with almond flour, or yolks of eggs.
3304. -THICK SOUP.
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of gravy beef, 1 pint of water, 2 tablespoonfuls
of almond flour or gluten flour, 1 tablespoonful of cabbage cooked and
chopped, 1 tablespoonful of cream, salt to taste.
Method. — Cut the meat into small pieces, and simmer it in the water
for 1 \ hours. Strain, replace in the stewpan, add the almond flour
or gluten flour mixed smoothly with a little cold water, and stir until
boiling. Stir and cook gently for about 10 minutes, add the cabbage
and cream, and season to taste.
Time. — 2 hours.
3305. — TRIPE SOUP.
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of tripe, 1 pint of milk, 1 pint of stock or water,
1 small onion, 1 clove, 1 oz. of butter, an oz. of flour, salt and pepper.
Method. — Wash the tripe, blend and drain it, and cook it in the
milk and stock or water, with the onion and clove, for an hour or till
tender, then mince the tripe finely and add it to the broth. Melt
the butter, stir ip the flour, dilute with 1 gill of milk, stir till it tods
and add to the soup. Boil for 10 minutes longer, season slightly
and serve.
Time. — 1\ hours. Average Cost, 7th or 8d.
BREAD, BISCUITS AND
CAKES
CHAPTER XLVI
Cereals.— Among the large variety of vegetable products yielding
articles of food for man, the “ cereals ” undoubtedly hold the first place.
They are so-called after “ Ceres,” who, in Roman mythology, was the
goddess of corn and tillage, or more generally speaking, of agriculture.
The best-known cereals are wheat, rye, barley, oats and maize.
Of these wheat comes first, and in this country scarcely anything
else is employed at the present time for bread-making, although
at different times other grain and vegetables have been pressed into
service, generally, however, in times of scarcity and famine, when the
quartern loaf has risen in price to 2S. There is a vast difference in the
price of bread now and at the beginning of the eighteenth century,
when also the quality was decidedly bad. In the early days of the
nineteenth century the country was no doubt in a very bad way, and
we whose lot is cast in the present day have much to be thankful for.
A quartern loaf made at the present time from the finest flour the world
produces is within the reach of almost all, for to-day the average
price of bread for the country is 5d. per quartern.
Rye is used for the purposes of bread-making in some continental
countries, but in England it takes more the form of a luxury than
ordinary every-day food. It is hard, and less easily soluble by the
gastric juices, and is less rich in nutritive properties than wheat-
meal or flour. Flour or meal produced from barley, maize, or rice,
cannot be employed satisfactorily for the manufacture of bread unless
a considerable portion of wheat flour is added, and in countries where
these grains are the staple food of the people they are as often eaten
as porridge or mash as in the form of bread.
On examining a grain of corn from any of the numerous cereals used
in the preparation of flour, such as wheat, rye, barley, etc., it will be
found to consist of the husk, or exterior covering, which is generally
of a dark colour, and the inner part, which is more or less white. That
is what is seen on a superficial examination, but looked at through a
microscope there is a centre white part, consisting almost entirely of
1388
RECIPES FOR BREAD, BISCUITS, AND CAKES 1389
starch cells, and 5 or 6 layers of different-shaped cells surrounding the
starch, each less starchy and less white than the centre, each containing
more phosphates and getting browner as it is nearer to the outer cover-
ing of all, the bran. The gluten or flesh-forming material is in a
row of brick-shaped cells near the starch. In grinding, these two
portions are separated, and, the husk being blown away in the process
of winnowing, the flour remains in the form of a light-brown powder.
In order to separate the brown from the white, it undergoes a process
called “ bolting.” It is passed through a series of fine sieves, which
separate the coarser parts, leaving behind fine white flour — the “whites ”
or “ supers ” of the millers, flour dealers, or factors. It will thus be
seen that the finest white flour comes from the centre of the grain, and
contains a considerable proportion of starch. “ Households,” or
“fines,” is somewhat darker in colour because it takes in some of the
cells rich in gluten, it is therefore more nourishing and, as a rule,
stronger and more elastic in the dough, and will make a larger though
sometimes a very holey loaf. “ Sharps,” “ tails,” “ tippings ” and
“pollard” arc all names given to the intermediate products between
white flour and bran. These latter products are generally used to feed
stock upon, but might with some probable advantage be added to bread,
as they are very nourishing, and not indigestible like bran. This was
the process generally in vogue for the production of flour fifty years
ago, but at the present time a totally different process is followed, and
the old-time stones have been replaced by steam rollers ; hence the
term now generally met with of “ roller process flour,” meaning that
the wheat has been reduced to flour by rollers instead of ground as
before described. There is also a good deal of difference in the products
of the two systems, for although flour is the result of both, the roller
flour is the better. The principal difference between the two pro-
cesses is that by the roller process the flour is manufactured after the
impurities have been got rid of, while in stone milling, as before stated,
the whole grains are ground down into a general mass, and a portion
of the impurities removed or taken out in the subsequent dressings
or bolting of the meal.
The process of roller-milling can be divided into 5 stages : — 1st. Clean-
ing the wheat ; 2nd. The break-roller process ; 3rd. Purification ;
4th. Smooth-roller process ; 5 th. Flour dressing.
The first process consists of cleaning the grains and freeing them
from foreign matter, and many ingenious machines are used for the
purpose which need not be discussed here. The grain being cleaned,
dried, or whatever preliminary operation is necessary, is fed into the
break rolls. These are constructed of steel, fluted longitudinally, with
a slight spool, and as the grains pass through they are crushed, and
semolina middlings flour and offal are produced. Usually there are
seven sets of rolls to each break, and the products from each break are
sifted by sieves with different sized meshes, and the product is termed
139°
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
“ through,” while that which does not pass through the sieves is termed
“ tails,” and forms the feed for the second and subsequent breaks,
until the last break is reached, and the “ throughs ” are reserved for
gentler treatment.
The first break reduces the grain to rather large particles, and as
the “ tail ” passes down to the lower breaks it becomes more branny,
until, at the last break, very little but bran is left. The grain having
been passed through the rollers and sieves gives several different pro-
ducts that need not be particularised here ; then comes the purification
process, which is done with machines termed “ purifiers,” fitted with
horizontal sieves of “ Swiss-silk,” through which the currents of air
arc passed. By the motion of the sieves and the action of the air the
light and impure particles are lifted to the top, the lightest are blown
away, and the medium floated to the tail to be repurified, the heaviest
and best semolina only passing through the sieves. The “ throughs ”
from the different breaks are now run through smooth rollers that run
at slightly different speeds, and afterwards comes the dressing, which
results in ist Patents, 2nd Patents ; 1st Bakers, 2nd Bakers,
which are more than equivalent to the whites, supers, households, and
No. 28 of the old-fashioned miller. Of course, the middlings, sharps,
pollard and bran are taken out during different stages of the process.
Wholemeal and Brown Breads. — In ancient times, down to the Em-
perors, bolted flour was unknown. In many parts of Germany the
entire meal is still used for bread, and in no part of the world are the
digestive organs of the people in a better condition. But the principal
grain used is rye, and not wheat, as in England. Brown bread has of
late years become more popular, and many physicians have recom-
mended it to invalids with weak digestion and people of sedentary
habits with great success. Nevertheless, it is questionable whether
wholemeal bread would prove an advantage to the mass of the people, for
the bran is not digestible, and indeed, its value, in the physician’s hands,
depends upon that. Decorticated bread, from which the bran only is
absent, is not open to the same objection, and will afford a pleasant
change, occasionally, from the white bread which is so popular. Unfor-
tunately brown bread is sometimes made from white flour and bran,
leaving out all the central products, and, therefore, cannot be of so
high a dietetic value as wholemeal or decorticated wheatmeal bread.
Bran contains a large proportion of phosphates and mineral matter,
and the ferment peculiar to wheat flour, said to assist in its digestion ;
hence it will be seen why brown bread is more nourishing than white
bread ; indeed, we may lay it down as a general rule, that the whiter
the bread, the less nourishment it contains. At the same time, the
white loaf still flourishes, and the colour of the crumb is a sure indica-
tion of the quality of the flour used in its manufacture.
Bread-making is a very ancient art. The Assyrians, Egyptians and
Greeks used to make bread, in which oil, with aniseed and other spices
RECIPES FOR BREAD, BISCUITS, AND CAKES 1391
were elements, but this was unleavened. Every family used to prepare
the bread for its own consumption, the trade of baking not having then
taken shape. It is said that somewhere about the beginning of the
both Olympiad, the slave of an archon at Athens, made leavened
bread by accident. He had left some wheaten dough in an earthen
pan, and had forgotten it ; some days afterwards he lighted upon it
again, and found it turning sour. His first thought was to throw it
away ; but, his master coming uo, he mixed this now acescent
dough with some fresh dough, which he was working at. The bread
thus produced, by the introduction of dough in which alcoholic fermenta-
tion had begun, was found delicious by the archon and his friends, and
the slave, being summoned and catechised, told the secret. It spread
all over Athens, and everybody wanting leavened bread at once, certain
persons set up as bread-makers, or bakers. In a short time bread-
making became quite an art, and “Athenian Bread” was quoted all
over Greece as the best bread, just as the honey of Hymettus was cele-
brated as the best of its kind.
In our own times, and among civilised peoples, bread has become
an article of food of the first necessity ; and rightly so, for it constitutes
of itself a complete life-sustainer — the gluten, fibrin, fat, phosphates,
starch and sugar, which it contains, representing all the necessary
classes of food ; and when the question of cost arises, it is one of the
cheapest foods supplied to man. In towns and large centres of popula-
tion, bread is cheapest, and if not of the highest quality, as a life sus-
tainer it is more valuable than the whitest of flour. But, comparatively
speaking, bread by itself contains too little fat, and too little flesh-form-
ing material to be used as a sole article of diet.
Different kinds of Flours. — The finest, wholesomest, and most savoury
bread is made from wheaten flour. Rye bread comes next to wheaten
bread ; it is not so rich in gluten, but is said to keep fresh longer,
and to possess some laxative qualities.
Barley bread, Indian-corn bread, etc., made from barley, maize, oats,
rice, potatoes, etc., “ rise badly,” because the grains in question con-
tain but little gluten, so that the bread is heavy, close in texture, and
difficult of digestion ; in fact, wheat flour has to be added before panifi-
cation can take place. In countries where wheat is scarce and maize
abundant, the people make the latter a chief article of sustenance,
prepared in different forms.
Yeast is a living plant, consisting of a vast number of minute cells,
which multiply by budding off other cells, and sometimes by spores,
and most of the mistakes in its use would be avoided if this were under-
stood. Extremes of heat and cold kill it, and a temperature that it
does not like prevents it from growing actively at the time, even though
it may not be hot or cold enough to put an end to its growing in future
under more favourable conditions. Under a microscope each plant
can be readily defined. If a few be put into flour and water, potatoes
I392
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
and water, or any suitable mixture, they grow and multiply, producing
more yeast plants like themselves, and in growing they give out car-
bonic acid gas and water, with a little alcohol. Cooks talk about keep-
ing a little yeast in sugar and water, but it is kept only as this year’s
corn is kept when it is sown to make next year’s bread. It does not
grow freely in sugar and water only, it requires something more.
Flour and sugar is easy and convenient, or potatoes. The better
the food suits the yeast the faster it grows ; in some mixtures, care-
fully prepared on purpose, it grows so fast that as much as will lie
on a shilling fills a cup in an hour or two. It must always be kept
warm, at blood-heat, during the process of fermentation, unless you
desire to check its growth or vigour, in which case the temperature
must be considerably reduced.
Growth of Yeast. — One practical use of these facts is that, given a little
good yeast, any amount more may be made. A second is, that if
Brewer’s yeast is bitter, a little of it will always yield some new yeast
that is not bitter.
Rough usage or shaking will also prevent its growth.
Before making any quantity of bread, it is wise to test the yeast and
see if it yields, by mixing a little and setting it near a warm stove
for an hour, but on no account must it get hot, for that would effect-
ually kill it.
Home-made Yeast is sometimes made of malt and hops, and no yeast
is added by the maker. If the solution begins to ferment, yeast has
certainly got into it some way or another, and yet, exposed to the air,
it is almost sure to ferment sooner or later, and will probably ferment
very soon if there is yeast anywhere near.
Choice of Yeast. — In this country the choice of yeast is almost
unlimited, for besides Brewer’s and Baker’s “ Patent,” there is an im-
mense quantity imported from the continent, and vast quantities are
also supplied by the spirit factories or distilleries of this country. All
kinds of leavening matter have, however, been, and are still used in
different parts of the world : in the East Indies, “ toddy,” which is a
liquor that flows from the wounded cocoa-nut tree ; and in the West
Indies, “ dunder,” or the refuse of the distillation of rum. The dough
then undergoes the well-known process called kneading. The yeast
produces fermentation, a process which may be thus described : —
The dough re-acting upon the leavening matter introduced, the starch
of the flour is transformed into saccharine matter, the saccharine matter
being afterwards changed into alcohol, water, and carbonic acid gas.
The dough must be well “ bound,” and yet allow the escape of the little
bubbles of cai'bonic acid which result from fermentation, which in their
passage cause the numerous little holes which are seen in light bread.
To Choose Flour. — The quality of wheat varies much with the weather
of each season at home, and also with the weather and soil in countries
that differ more from each other than our wettest season from our driest.
-b-M
RECIPES FOR BREAD, BISCUITS, AND CAKES 1393
So much flour is now imported that we always have a good supply. If
one country fails, another succeeds. In bygone times, when there was
little or no foreign corn, if the corn sprouted in shock there was bad
bread for the community until a better season came round, for sprouted
corn and bad flour cannot be made into good bread, even with all the
skilful manipulation of the modern baker.
Good Flour is Dry, and does not lose more than 12 per cent, in weight
when heated in an oven. To grind corn damp, and so increase its
weight, is not an uncommon practice. Every cook knows that the
same weight of flour will not always mix with an equal quantity of water,
and that the better the flour the more water it takes up. It should
be white, with a yellowish tinge, household flour being always less white
than “ firsts,” or fine Hungarian, used for pastry, adherent, so that a
handful squeezed keeps its shape ; neither acid, nor soon becoming
acid ; and it should, above all, make a good loaf. This last is the best
of all tests, and before buying any large quantity of flour it is always
wise to apply it on a sample. From 1 sack of flour (280 lbs.) from 90
to 100 (4-lbs.) loaves may be made. The average is about 95. If the
flour is remarkably good and dry, a greater weight of water is taken
up, and consequently a larger number of loaves are made from the same
amount of flour. Cloths are sometimes thrown over bread hot out of
the oven to retain the steam and prevent the loaves from becoming dry.
Loss of Weight in Baking. — Dough loses about of its weight in baking.
Potato is sometimes added in small quantities with no evil intent, be-
cause yeast acts more quickly on potato starch than that contained in
the flour ; but of late years Malt Extract has largely superseded the use
of potatoes, as being more cleanly, a true yeast food, and more adapted
to modern processes. The skill of the baker is applied so to mix
the flour that it may produce the best bread, as regards its colour,
flavour, and keeping quality. It is usual to use strong American flour
for setting the sponge, and afterwards to knead in some of the sweet
flour grown in our English counties. About § of our flour comes from
abroad, and it is generally used to mix in with and fortify our home
supply, though every one who has tried new English flour, grown in a
good season and on good soil, will agree that none can equal it for sweet-
ness.
Daily Consumption of Bread. — It is usual to allow 1 lb. of bread per
diem to each person. Two people would eat a half-quartern loaf be-
tween them. This is an ample allowance, even if there is not a very
abundant supply of other foods, and if more than this is used in an
average household there is probably some waste going on. The poorer
housekeepers, who fetch their bread, get it weighed, and receive an
extra slice thrown in if the loaf is under weight, but bread brought to
the house is not weighed by the baker. Fancy bread is never weighed,
and as brown bread is usually made and sold as fancy bread, it is con-
sumed chiefly as a luxury.
I394
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
When the Dough is well kneaded, it is left to stand for some time, and
then, as soon as it begins to swell, it is divided into loaves. After this
process it is again left to stand, when it once more swells up, and mani-
fests for the last time the symptoms of fermentation. It is then put
into a hot oven, where the water contained in the dough is partly evapor-
ated, and the loaves swell up again, while a yellow crust begins to form
upon the surface. When the bread is sufficiently baked, the bottom
crust is hard and resonant if struck with the knuckles, and the crumb
is elastic, rising again in its place if pressed with the fingers. It will
take from 30 to 45 minutes to bake in an ordinary oven, according to
the size of the loaves, but a full 2-lb. loaf will never bake in less than
45 minutes, and if the oven is not over-hot a much longer time is neces-
sary.
New Bread. — One word as to the unwholesomeness of new bread
and hot rolls. When bread is taken out of the oven it is full of
moisture ; the starch is held together, and the bread, instead of being
crushed so as to expose each grain of starch to the saliva, is formed
by the teeth into leathery, poreless masses, which are highly indigest-
ible. Bread should always be at least a day old before it is eaten ;
and, if properly made, and kept in a cool place, ought to be perfectly
soft and palatable at the end of 3 or 4 days ; and so firmly was
this believed to be the case, that an Act of Parliament was once
passed making it illegal to sell bread that was less than 24 hours
old.
Baking-powder is largely used to vesiculate bread and cakes. The
carbonic acid gas in this case is formed by the effervescence of bi-
carbonate of soda with some acid, usually tartaric, but sometimes
hydrochloric. Many different kinds are sold, but each differs but
slightly from the other. Some are coloured yellow and are known as
egg-powder ; some go by the name of yeast-powder ; but the action
of all is practically the same. A common recipe for home-made baking-
powder is 10 ozs. of ground rice, 9 ozs. of carbonate of soda, 5 ozs. of
tartaric acid, well mixed and sifted together ; the rice is merely used
to increase the bulk, and so to facilitate its mixing with the flour, If
a teaspoonful of this or any other baking-powder is put in a tumbler
of water, if effervesces rapidly ; presently the effervescence subsides,
and there remains water, with the rice undissolved, and some tartrate
of soda. In the same way it effervesce? in a cake, or in dough, and
bubbles up exactly as in the case of the water. As the water soon sub-
sided, so will the dough, the gas will escape, and there will remain flour,
water, and tartrate of soda settled down into a solid mass. Such is
the action of baking-powder on bread or pastry, if the latter is not
baked at once. The whole value of the powder is lost. But if it is
put in the oven while the gas is held in the dough, it will rise still further,
because gas or air always expands with heat, and long before the gas
escapes the dough will be baked into shape with all the bubbles in it.
RECIPES FOR BREAD, BISCUITS, AND CAKES 1395
and is then called “ light.” It is not a good word, for whether a loaf
is “ light ” or “ heavy ” it weighs the same, except in so far as it may
be too wet if it is not sufficiently baked ; the difference will consist in
the size and relative weight of the two, and not in the actual weight.
A “ light ” loaf is puffed up to look larger.
All goods, therefore, made with baking-powder, should be put into
the oven as soon as possible after the moistening ingredient is added,
or the result will be a very indifferently aerated cake or loaf. This
rule applies generally to all kinds of baking-powders, cakes, pastry,
or bread.
Another rule is to use the coldest water and to mix it in a cold place.
We have seen that the rising of a loaf depends on the sudden expansion
by heat of the air it contains, and the greater the difference between
the coldness of the air as it goes into the oven, and the heat of the oven
itself, the more it wdl rise, always provided that the oven is not so fierce
as to scorch and stiffen the crust before the inside has had time to be
heated. Cakes can be imide light with snow instead of water, even
with no baking-powder, because of the extreme coldness of the air that
is mixed into them.
In this kind of bread-making the gas is formed in the dough, but
not of it, as with yeast, and, therefore, the taste of the wheat is more
perfectly preserved.
Other Acids used. — When hydrochloric acid is used, instead of tartaric
acid, or cream of tartar, it combines with the soda to form chloride
of sodium, better known as common salt. It is more difficult to mix
than the dry acid, but it has the advantage that common salt is always
harmless, while tartrate of soda is an aperient, having exceptional
action upon a few constitutions. There are persons who cannot eat
bread made with baking-powder ; this is probably the reason. Such
an idiosyncrasy is, it must be confessed, very rare ; and the commercial
acid (hydrochloric) often contains arsenic in small quantities, which is
a very undesirable element for bread-making purposes, and at the
present time it is very seldom used for aerating bread or anything else.
A commoner objection to baking-powder is that it leaves a soapy taste,
resulting from an excess of soda. Excess of acid is far less objection-
able and less common. Other acids may be used, as, for instance, sour
milk, or butter-milk, which makes excellent bread with bicarbonate of
soda. Liebig recommended acid phosphates of lime, chloride of sodium,
and bicarbonate of soda, which very gently and slowly evolves the gas,
and, therefore, makes better bread than substances that effervesce
quickly and are soon still. Sesqui carbonate of ammonia is also used
by bakers to make cakes. It is extremely volatile, and must be kept
in a tightly-stoppered bottle.
Eggs act in two ways. They increase the tenacity of the dough, so
that it better retains the air, and when they are beaten to a froth, they
carry a good deal of air into the cake.
1396
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
“ Graham ” Bread is also made of brown meal and water, without any
ferment other than the small amount of cerealine contained in the wheat
grain itself. It has not come into very general use in this country, but
in America a considerable quantity is consumed.
Aerated Bread. — As a matter of fact all bread is aerated, but at the
present day there is a special bread that is known to the public as
“ Aerated Bread.” It is made by a company in London, and has been
on sale for a considerable time. The bread is rather close, but very
sweet and white in colour, and is made by a process patented by Dr.
Dauglish, of Malvern. The flour is first put in a spherical vessel with
the salt, and the vessel is closed up, the atmospheric air is exhausted,
and then water and carbonic gas are forced into the globe, and a •
series of beaters or arms revolved by steam power convert the raw
material into dough. This, when thoroughly mixed, and of course
aerated, is discharged into tins, or long loaves, which are immediately
put into the oven, where they are allowed to bake in the same way
as other bread. It will be noted where the chief points of difference
come in. It is made entirely by machinery, and is untouched by
hand during the whole process, and this is one of the inducements
held out to the public to purchase it.
Machine-made Bread. — At the present time the process of bread-making
is worked upon more scientific principles than hitherto, and with the
attraction of a capital to the baking-trade, the endeavour seems to be
made to keep well up to date as regards machinery, so that to-day there is
scarcely a town of any importance without a bakery supplied with the
most modern machinery and appliances. Machine-made bread is
probably not any better than the hand-made variety ; but, although
there may be many who prefer the hand-made, there can be no doubt
that in the near future all bakeries will be equipped with machinery.
From a hygienic point of view, machine-made bread is to be preferred
to hand-made, and as the public appreciate the fact that the heavy
labour of dough-making is more effectively done by machine than by
hand, there is no doubt they will eventually insist upon having it.
At the present day, bakehouses in all parts of the country are periodi-
cally visited by an inspector. There is therefore very little likelihood
of bread being manufactured under insanitary conditions ; in fact, the
tendency is all the other way — to gradually raise the sanitary standard,
and thus blot out many of the old-fashioned bakehouses that were
sanitary enough in the old days, according to their theories, but are
altogether old-fashioned and behind the times now. If there is any
dark spot in the baking-trade it is truly the fault of the local authorities
and their inspectors, who have power of entry under a variety of Acts of
Parliament to inspect, insist upon alterations, or close any bakery that
is, in their opinion, in an insanitary condition, and if they fail in their
duty, it is for the public to interfere for their own protection, and insist
upon the law being properly carried out.
RECIPES FOR BREAD, BISCUITS, AND CAKES 1397
Mixed Breads. — Rye bread is hard of digestion, and requires longer
and slower baking than wheaten bread. It is better when made with
leaven of wheaten flour, rather than yeast, and turns out lighter. It
should not be eaten till 2 days old. It will keep a long time. A good
bread may be made by mixing rye-flour, wheat-flour, and rice paste in
equal proportions ; also by mixing rye, wheat and barley. In Norway
it is said that they only bake their barley bread once a year, such is its
“ keeping ” quality. Indian cornflour, mixed with wheat-flour (half-
and-half) makes a nice bread ; but it is not considered very digestible,
though it keeps well. Rice cannot be made into bread, nor can pota-
toes ; but £ potato-flour in £ wheaten flour makes a tolerably good
loaf. A very good bread, better than the ordinary kind, and of a
delicious flavour, is said to be produced by adopting the following
recipe : — Take 10 parts of wheat-flour, 5 parts of potato-flour, 1 part of
rice paste; knead together, add the yeast, and bake as usual. This
would not prove any cheaper than ordinary wheaten bread at' the
present day, because the potato-flour and rice are dearer than flour.
In times of great scarcity, when the people of this country depended
chiefly upon their own productions for their food, nearly all the vege-
table products of the garden were used for the purpose of making bread,
and mixed breads were as often met with as brown or wheaten breads ;
this was, however, before the abolition of the Corn Laws, when wheat
was over 100s. per quarter, and the quartern loaf cost is. qd. But at
the present day, with every country in the world anxious to supply
our markets with the best of their products, there does not seem much
likelihood of Englishmen being reduced to such straits again, and
being compelled to feed on the so-called mixed breads.
It will be seen by what has been previously stated that a very con-
siderable amount of care and skill is requisite to produce a sweet whole-
some loaf. If the instructions given in the following pages are carefully
carried out, there should be no difficulty in making a palatable and satisfy-
ing loaf, whose merits will be appreciated by all who partake of it. In
making bread, no matter how large or small the quantity, it is of the
first importance that everything should be scrupulously clean, sweet
and dry. If these precautions are omitted the bread will not turn out
as desired. Before commencing, see that everything is in readiness,
so that it will be unnecessary to leave off in the middle. Have
a sufficient quantity of water at hand for the purpose, and also some
flour in a tin or basin in which to dip the hands and rub them clean
when necessary. When you have finished with it, run the flour
through a sieve, and any pieces that may have fallen from the
hands should be added to the dough and well kneaded in. If no more
than £ a bushel of flour (8 quarterns) is being worked, a large red earth-
enware pan will answer admirably to mix it in. It should, after being
thoroughly washed out and dried, be set out on a strong kitchen chair
(from which the back has been removed) in front of the kitchen fire;
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1398
then turn the flour into the pan, cover it over with a clean cloth, and
allow it to stand until the chill passes ofl before commencing. This
is of course more necessary in winter than in the summer, and as there
is only a small quantity of dough it will very soon get cold and be spoilt
if it is not properly taken care of; and, since much depends upon the
warmth, the whole process should be performed in front of the kitchen
fire if the weather is at all cold and chilly. At the same time, under
no consideration must the dough become too hot, for heat will kill the
yeast sooner than cold, and the result in each case would be the same —
heavy and unsatisfactory bread. Heavy bread is the result of in-
sufficient fermentation, and sour bread is caused by over fermentation ;
it will therefore be seen how desirable it is to adopt just the happy
medium — to have the water neither too hot nor too cold, to give the
yeast sufficient time to work or ferment properly, but not long enough
to work itself sour. This happy medium will soon be arrived at by
experience. On no account must the pan containing the dough be
placed close enough to the fire for the heat to penetrate and form a
crust on the inside of the pan, for that would presently be mixed into
the remainder of the dough, and result in dark, heavy patches in the
bread. Care must also be taken by keeping the dough sufficiently
well covered to prevent it from becoming skinned over, producing a
very unsightly appearance should it get on the outside of the loaves
when they are moulded or shaped up ready for the oven ; such loaves
are known generally as “ slut’s farthings.” When making the dough, it
is of the greatest importance that it should be thoroughly well kneaded ;
in fact, up to a certain point, the more kneading given to the bread
the better it will be, while if it is not kneaded sufficiently the dough
may run flat in the oven, and not spring as it should. When freeing
the hands of paste after the dough has been made, very particular
notice should be taken that the scraps are first well rubbed into the
dough, and then kneaded into the mass, leaving the finished dough
perfectly smooth and clear.
When making the dough, keep all the flour in the pan, and do not
get it all over the sides of the pan on to the floor, for, besides being
wasteful, it is a very dirty and slovenly proceeding.
Another Word about Yeast. — In making bread for household purposes,
residents in towns will find no difficulty in procuring fresh yeast from
the bakers or corn-chandlers, and most probably the yeast obtained
will be the distillery, French, or German article. There is no very
great difference between these yeasts, and either, or all of them, may
be depended upon for being effective. As a general rule the distiller’s
yeast would be the most vigorous and the sweetest for the purpose.
Of late years the great distillery companies have made some special
efforts to meet the bakers’ requirements in this particular, and have
succeeded in turning out some of the best yeast that can be pro-
duced, and it is certain that the yeast that the baker considers good
RECIPES FOR BREAD, BISCUITS, AND CAKES 1399
enough for his bread would be good and reliable enough for domestic
use.
On the other hand, if resident in the country and far distant from
a town, there may be some difficulty in procuring suitable yeast for
bread-making purposes, in which case it would be advisable to make
it, and thus be practically independent. Instructions will be found
for making yeast suitable for bread-making and other purposes for
which yeast is required, and as it improves if properly kept, there
can be no objection to brewing the yeast once a month ; but it must
be stored in a cool place, and some of the old yeast saved to start
the new brewing each time, for if some yeast has not been reserved for
this purpose, suddenly the supply of yeast may fail, with no means of
making a fresh stock. Malt and hops for the purpose can be procured
from the corn-chandlers.
In the past brewer’s yeast was very extensively used for home-baking,
but, principally because it was not always to be depended upon, was
often bitter in taste and dark in colour, it has dropped almost out of
use. As brewer’s yeast may possibly, in some cases, be the only avail-
able supply, it will be necessary to cleanse it, or remove the bitterness
and dark colour. This can, to some extent, be done by washing the
yeast in a little water, in the following manner : — Put the yeast into
a large jug, add a small pinch of carbonate of soda, and fill up the jug
nearly to the top with clean water, stir it up well to mi'x it thoroughly
with the water, and then stand it aside in a cool place to settle.
The yeast will settle at the bottom in a thick sediment, and the liquor
poured off will take away a considerable portion of the dark colour
and bitter flavour. If this process is repeated 2 or 3 times, it will result
in a very good-flavoured yeast being left behind, eminently suitable for
bread-making purposes.
Many of the brewing firms make a practice of cleansing their yeast
in this fashion, and then, after all the moisture has been pressed out, it
is sold as Brewer’s Compressed, and is used largely for bread-making
purposes by bakers ; but, as this yeast is somewhat slow and sluggish
in action, it is not used for any other purpose to any very great extent.
It makes a very sweet-eating loaf, and is generally appreciated.
Final Advice about Flour. — Although the finest flour procurable may be
used, it will not always turn out the perfection of bread, for various
reasons. But at the same time good bread cannot be made from bad or
indifferent flour ; it is, therefore, always advisable to use the best flour
which can be obtained for the purpose. Of course the sine qua non of home
baking is to make bread cheaper than it could be procured from the
bakers, but if a worse article than the tradesman supplies is produced,
nothing is gained by home baking. The finest flour procurable in this
country is “ Vienna,” or “ Hungarian,” as it is more generally called,
and it is always the dearest flour on the market, sometimes as much
as 14s. per sack (280 lbs.) dearer than the best town-made whites. Of
1400
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
course the price of flour fluctuates according to the law of supply and
demand, and all kinds of flour are governed by the standard of House-
holds. Thus when Households are quoted at 24s. per sack, the better
qualities will be correspondingly dearer. Whites, for instance, would
be 24s., and the Patents probably 28s. 6d. to 29s. 6d. ; Vienna would
then be sold at about 40s. With the cheaper flours, which are also
inferior in quality, the drop in price is not at so large a rate, and the
flour coming next below “ Households,” and known as No. 2’s would
cost from 21s. 6d. to 22s. 6d. This is one of the cheapest flours milled
by English millers, or, strictly speaking, the lowest grade they put upon
the markets. The country-milled flour would then be about 2s. per sack
cheaper than town flour of the same grade, but not of the same quality,
for the town miller will have a wider field to select his “ grist ” or wheat
from than the country miller, and in that way will use some of the
choicest foreign wheats along with the best-grown in this country, while
the country miller will depend largely upon local growths, which prac-
tically give the characteristics to the flour produced. If the miller
grinds with the idea of supplying the town bakers, he will add in some
foreign wheat to give tone to the flour, and in all likelihood will mark
it under a special brand ; but his principal aim would generally be to
give good colour and sweet flavour, while the town miller would com-
bine these two characteristics, and add “ strength,” which is of the
utmost importance for bread-making purposes. The loaf produced
from the country flour will almost invariably be small in size, close in
texture, and pleasantly sweet, besides being good in colour ; the out-
side crust also would be pale and somewhat tough. On the other hand,
the loaf made from town flour of the same grade, if a similar process
has been followed in turning it into bread, would be large and bulky,
with a well-aerated, yet smooth cut in crumb, and sweet, but not quite
so sweet, as the loaf made from the country-milled flour ; the outside
crust would also be slightly browner in colour, and crisp. Vienna flour,
if made into bread, will have, to some extent, the characteristics of
both these flours combined, but the colour of the crumb will be con-
siderably whiter, and the texture will be very silky and even. The
outside crust will be tough. In this connection it must be remembered
that although Vienna flour has been used that does not constitute
“ Vienna Bread,” which is made by a special process and baked in speci-
ally constructed ovens. Reference has been made to Vienna flour to
show its superiority in baking it into ordinary bread.
American and Canadian flour is imported into the country in vast
quantities, and the supply, generally speaking, governs the markets of
the world. When there is an abundance of flour from those countries
bread will be cheap, provided, of course, that all other countries
growing wheat have their average crops, and do not need to import
to any great extent ; but should one or two of the wheat-consuming
countries be “short,” the market will be correspondingly influenced,
RECIPES FOR BREAD, BISCUITS, AND CAKES 1401
and the price will be raised all round. The finest flour imported from
America is known as “ First Patents,” and usually commands about
2s. per sack more than whites ; but in years of plenty it will be almost
as cheap as “ Households,” and being better than “ Whites,” its in-
fluence upon the home markets is apparent. The next grade is
termed “ Second Patents,” a cheaper quality than “ Straights,” or
commonly termed “ First Baker's” ; then follows “ Second Baker’s,”
which is lower in quality than the other three ; the last of all, a very
low grade, known as “ Red Dog although it is very strong from a
baking point of view, it is very dark in colour, and is used principally
in poor neighbourhoods, in conjunction with cheap country flour, for
the purposes of making cheap bread. This flour is the basis of the
cheap and, to some extent, nasty bread of our poor neighbours, but
none of it will be wanted in better households, for the better the bread
the less is required, and thus even the dearest is the best and cheapest
in the end. In procuring a supply of flour for home baking it is
advisable to purchase it in respectable quantities, and let it be a
standard brand, one that the miller will do his best to maintain,
whether it is English or foreign stock. The brands are sufficiently
numerous, and there should be little difficulty in making a selection
that would be suitable for the purpose. Usually the tradesman would
recommend a flour that would answer admirably, and would doubtless
keep up the same standard of excellence all the year round, for, having
a large field to select from, he will, as a general rule, keep his flour up
to a certain standard of excellence. He would thus be able to supply
flour suitable for bread-making and other purposes, and by taking it
in regular quantities at stated intervals, it would be to his own interest
to study the requirements of his customers in exactly the same way as
the larger merchant millers are attentive to the requirements of their
baker customers.
The Oven. — At a not very remote date almost every house in the
country was equipped with a brick oven and conveniences for making
and baking bread, and even at the present time, in out-of-the-way
districts, they are still to be found, but only in localities where the baker
is not easily accessible. But, generally speaking, these ovens have
disappeared, and where they do exist they have been annexed by a
villager who, as a matter of course, constitutes himself the village baker,
supplying the requirements of his neighbours to their mutual advan-
tage. Usually the oven is rather a primitive affair, but very solidly
built of bricks and heated with wood, which is put directly into the
oven, set on fire, and allowed to burn itself out, the smoke passing away
up the chimney placed just outside the oven door. When the fire has
burnt out, or, more properly speaking, after the oven is heated, all the
embers are raked out, and the oven swabbed out with a piece of coarse
sacking tied to the end of a long pole, and dipped into cold water. In
this way the oven is cleaned, and when the bread is ready it is “ run ”
1402
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
or put into the oven with a “ peel.” The door is closed, and is allowed
to remain undisturbed for at least 45 minutes. The heat of the oven,
if it could be tested with a thermometer, would be found to vary from
400° to 500° Fahr., and when the bread is done the oven would not
register more than 200° to 250° Fahr., the heat having been practically
used up in baking the bread, part of it passing off into the atmosphere.
There is no doubt that the “ wood oven,” so-called, from the char-
acter of the fuel consumed, turns out the sweetest bread, which cer-
tainly has a flavour peculiarly its own, and not to be produced by any
other means, proving conclusively that wood is the best fuel for baking
bread. But the scarcity of wood and limitations of space in large
centres of population have prohibited its use, and resort is had to coke,
coal and gas, which are burnt in a variety of ways to produce the heat
necessary to bake bread. Many so-called improvements have been made
in the construction of ovens since the oven described came into use,
and at the present time the baker has a large number of systems to
choose from, each of these claiming some points of excellence over the
others ; it should be no trouble, therefore, for the baker to select an
oven that will meet his requirements. In a private house this is of
course different, and the oven usually found in the kitchen of the gener-
ality of houses is totally unfit to bake a full 2-lb. loaf of bread, although
it will answer well enough for small rolls and fancy loaves. The un-
suitability of the modern oven is principally due to thinness of the
sides and the fact that it is not airtight ; consequently all the steam
escapes, rendering the bread dry and the crust hard and chippy, and
not moist and crisp like baker’s bread or bread baked in a large brick-
built oven. For it should be remembered that it is absolutely neces-
sary to keep all the steam in the oven when baking bread, for the vapour
assists the crust to assume the brightness and gloss seen on new bread,
known as “ bloom.” The ordinary kitchen oven, constructed of iron,
and being also very thick, in some cases becomes red-hot, and thus not
only scorches and burns the bread, but dries up the steam as fast as it
is given off from the dough, with the result, as before stated, that a
very dry crust and not a very well baked crumb is produced.
This is also the cause of the very thick tough crust so generally met
with in home-made bread. The crust is so quickly formed by the fierce
heat to which it is subjected, that it does not allow the steam with the
gases generated by baking to escape from the loaf, and they are in a
measure evaporated inside the skin or crust. Then when the bread is
drawn from the oven and cools, the steam is absorbed into the crust,
making it tough. It is very necessary that the oven be sufficiently
hot to 1 ak 2 the bread thoroughly, and under no consideration should
bread or other goods be baked in a slack oven, or the result will be a
very unsatisfactory loaf of bread, and most probably other goods will
also be spoilt. Although the modern oven is generally unsatisfactory
for ordinary loaf bread, it will bake small bread and fancy bread to
RECIPES FOR BREAD, BISCUITS, AND CAKES 1403
perfection, the cause of failure with large loaves proving the
success of the small. Generally speaking, this small bread requires
a quick, sharp, flash heat that will bake the loaves quickly and
well. Therefore there should be no very great difficulty in supplying
the family table with dainties for either breakfast, luncheon, dinner or
tea, and where it is necessary to bake bread in a town where gas can
be procured, there is nothing that will be so satisfactory as a gas oven,
failing one specially constructed for the purpose of baking bread.
Usually the gas companies let out these stoves on hire, and so great
has been the advantage from this arrangement that it will be found
more economical to use a gas oven than an ordinary kitchener for the
purpose. It should, however, be remembered that there are many
different styles of gas ovens, and it is therefore advisable to state what
is required to the gas company, and let them supply a suitable stove
for the particular purpose required. In using a gas oven it should be
remembered that it must be thoroughly heated before the bread is put
in, and then kept at a good heat during the time the process of baking
is going on : the oven door must be kept closed. Some gas ovens are
provided with a tiled “ sole,” or bottom, and these ovens bake excel-
lent cottage and other breads that are desired to have a sweet crusty
bottom. Usually bread baked in and on tins or metal has a tough
crust that is not generally liked, and to avoid this defect it is advisable
to procure some new red house-tiles and fit them into the bottom or
shelf of the oven. By this means a more satisfactorily baked loaf will
be obtained than by baking it on the iron. With the generality of
kitchen ovens it will be very desirable to bake the bread in tins, as better
results will be obtained than by putting the loaves direct upon the iron
of the oven, for if the oven is used for all kinds of domestic purposes,
there will be every probability of some dirt remaining upon the oven
from burnt fruit-juices, or boiled-over fat, which would be very un-
desirable on the bottoms of the loaves, and would sometimes add a very
disagreeable flavour to the bread. Of course it is possible to take the
shelves out and scour them, but there is always the liability to forget
these little things until the last minute, when it is undesirable to do
them, and they are neglected, with unfortunate after-results. It is
most necessary to practise the utmost cleanliness, for bread is very
sensitive, and will very soon absorb a very undesirable flavour from
anything that has been or is being baked witli it. No matter whether
the flavour is pleasant or obnoxious, it should not, under any considera-
tion, be allowed to impart it to the bread. On all occasions bake bread
by itself.
To Keep Bread. — One of the most important points in connection with
home baking is to keep the bread in good condition for the table after
it is baked. To do this it is necessary to commence at the beginning,
and when the bread is drawn from the oven stand it upon racks to cool,
where the air can circulate freely and gradually cool it, and then when
1404
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
perfectly cold, to wrap each loaf up separately in a sheet of white grease-
proof paper, and then in a sheet of thick brown or other waste paper,
and set the loaves in rows upon a shelf in a room or pantry free
from dampness or draught, where the room is diy, without fire, or
artificial light. This room or cupboard should be in a shady position
and well protected from the sun’s rays. Bread preserved in this way —
provided, of course, it has been properly made and baked — will keep
good, sweet and moist for io days, and the last loaf should be just as good
as the first, although it will be somewhat drier, but not to any appreci-
able extent. But very particular attention must be paid to the pre-
paration of the bread, otherwise it will not keep in condition for any
length of time. If bread is not required for keeping longer than a week,
it can be stored in a clean earthenware pan furnished with a lid, but if
a pan or crock is used for the purpose, it must be thoroughly scalded
and rinsed out every week, and then wiped with clean cloths and dried
before the fire, and allowed to become quite cold before storing the
bread in it. If required to be kept only for 2 or 3 days the bread will
not need very special treatment, but will keep quite well on shelves
in the larder, the only precaution necessary being to protect the loaves
from the sun and draught. Bread can also be kept wrapped in
clean cloths for a few days, but in all cases, no matter how it is kept,
it must be perfectly cold before being packed away. It is a fact that
should not be lost sight of, that the larger the loaf the longer it retains
its moisture, and as loaves decrease in size the drier they will become ;
all kinds' of small bread and rolls should therefore be freshly made as
frequently as possible. As a rule the capacity of the oven will be limited,
and where the number to be provided for is large, it will be necessary
to bake more than once a week, and where this is the case no very extra-
ordinary precautions will be necessary, as all the bread will be con-
sumed comparatively fresh. It is an excellent plan to arrange the
baking so that there is always one batch in hand ; it will not then be
necessary to serve hot bread at the table, which is a very uneconomical
practice. A loaf may be somewhat freshened by being warmed through
in a slack oven, but it must be remembered that this is only a very
primitive method of toasting, and that the loaf will be the drier for the
extra baking. Upon no consideration be persuaded to dip the bread
into water of any description before placing it in the oven, for the crust
will crack all over, and peel off in flakes, and the result will be most
unsatisfactory.
INGREDIENTS FOR CAKES.
Butter is of the first importance in cake-making, and where a
rich cake is desired of fine flavour and keeping qualities, only the
best butter should be used. But in most instances it will be desir-
able to use a somewhat cheaper fat for the purpose of cake-making.
RECIPES FOR BREAD, BISCUITS, AND CAKES 1405
especially where the family is large and the means limited. In this
case lard, dripping, or good margarine may be used with advantage,
and there are also several vegetable fats procurable that answer very
well for these purposes ; but although they are more economical in price,
and some of them are richer where flavour is the first consideration,
nothing better than pure butter can be used. So-called cooking butter
is in too many instances nothing but margarine, but there should be
no compunction in buying margarine under its right name, and paying
a corresponding low figure for it. In this connection it should be said
that the very cheapest that is offered should not be purchased ; but
for about 6d. per lb. a good sweet perfectly wholesome margarine can
be procured that is eminently suitable for all purposes of cake-making,
and will give results almost equal to pure butter. Of late years so many
improvements have been introduced into the manufacture of margarine
and other butter substitutes that almost an expert is required to tell
the difference, and if a mixture of half butter and half margarine is
used, there are few who could tell that it was not made with the best
butter ; and a good sweet margarine is to be preferred to a bad or in-
different butter.
Eggs. — After butter the eggs next claim attention. At the present
time eggs are imported into this country from all parts of the world.
Formerly they were imported from France only, but the supply being
unequal to the demand, other countries soon began to forward their sur-
plus eggs to the English market, and the result is that a good supply of
the finest eggs for cooking purposes is always obtainable. For making
cakes, eggs that are from 7 to 14 days old, provided they have been
properly kept, are best, and the reason is apparent. The longer an
egg is kept, up to a certain point, the less moisture it contains, for the
shell of a new-laid egg is perfectly full, and if shaken no sound emanates
from it ; but if the egg is kept for a few days and then shaken, it will
give out a rattle increasing in sound as the egg gets older. This is
caused by a certain amount of the water in the albumen, or white, drying
out into the shell and air, and thus the albumen is stronger and the yolk
more solid for being kept ; and the reason these eggs are better for cake-
making is that the ingredients will only take a limited quantity of liquid,
and the deficiency must be made up with milk, which is richer than the
water that has evaporated from the eggs. Nor is this the only advan-
tage. The whites will whip up better and give more body than fresh
eggs, and therefore more lightness to the cakes, for the white being
more solid and stronger in every way retains the air better after it is
beaten in. But when eggs are used for these purposes.it is important
that each egg is broken into a cup, and carefully tested by its smell,
to guard against any egg that may be bad, and especially a musty one,
which, were it added to the cake, would spoil the whole of the work
and render it uneatable. When breaking the eggs make sure that they
are useable, turn them into a basin or other suitable vessel, and cover
1406
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
them over with a sheet of paper to keep out all dirt, until they are
required for use.
Sugar. — Refined sugars can now be procured at so low a price, already
ground and pulverized, that it is more economical to buy it in this form
than to use loaf sugar and pound it, for, besides the trouble, it also in-
volves some waste and loss of time, for powdered sugar is no dearer
than loaf sugar, and if it cannot be procured from the grocers, a baker
who makes small confectionery goods would be willing to supply the
quantity required.
Fruit. — With the introduction of machinery for fruit cleaning pur-
poses, currants can be procured comparatively clean, and need only a
rub in a dry cloth, and picking over to remove any larger sprigs and
stones that may have escaped the machine, to render them fit for use.
In almost every case washing is not at all necessary; in fact, washing
the currants deprives them of some of their goodness, and, therefore,
is not only a waste of time, but waste of material, and makes the
cake heavy. Sultanas, although they are no doubt cleaned, require
carefully picking over, and a good rub on a coarse sieve will remove
almost the whole of the sprigs, which are a very objectionable in-
gredient in a cake. Raisins should in all cases be stoned, and if a
large quantity has to be prepared, a small machine suitable for the
purpose can be procured from the household stores or ironmongers
for a few shillings. It is very effective in its operations, and frees
the raisins from stones in an incredibly short time, and, contrary to
the general opinion, does not take out more of the flesh of the raisins
than hand-picking. Glace cherries, pineapple and ginger are used
in cake-making. They are procurable from the grocers in quantities
as required, but as the price is rather high, they are used but spar-
ingly. Cocoanut, almonds, walnuts, and other nuts, are sometimes
used in cakes, but with the exception of almonds and cocoanuts, very
small quantities of the others are used.
The Almonds, before use, require to be blanched. This is done by
putting the almonds into a basin and pouring boiling water over them.
When they have scalded for a short time their jackets are easily re-
moved. When blanched they should be dried in the oven. There
are very many varieties of the almond. The largest and dearest are
the Jordan, and the cheapest are termed Barbary. There are both
sweet and bitter almonds, the latter being used but sparingly for
flavouring purposes. Almonds can be purchased already blanched,
either whole, shred, chopped, or flaked, as desired, and if large quan-
tities are required it is cheaper to procure them already prepared.
Ground almonds are used for icings, paste, macaroons, ratifias, and
biscuits, and are procurable prepared all ready for use. Cocoanut is
sometimes liked, and for all purposes desiccated nut can be used. It
is sold in shreds, strips, and either fine or coarse, also sugared and
plain.
RECIPES FOR BREAD, BISCUITS, AND CAKES 1407
Flour for cakes should always be of the finest quality procurable,
and for best goods Vienna is the most suitable for use, and will also give
the best results. But for all ordinary purposes of the household, what
is termed “ Whites ” is suitable. But in any case let the flour be dry
•to the touch and sweet to the smell, with some colour and strength.
BISCUITS.
Manufacture of Biscuits. — Since the establishment of the large modern
biscuit factories, biscuits have been produced both cheap and whole-
some in almost endless variety. Their actual component parts are,
perhaps, known only to the various makers ; but there are several
kinds of biscuits which have long been in use, most of which belong
to the class of unfermented bread, and are perhaps the most wholesome
of that class. In cases where fermented bread causes dyspepsia, bis-
cuits may be recommended ; in many instances they are considered
lighter, and less liable to create acidity. The name is derived from
the French biscuit , or “ twice-baked,” because, originally, the method
of baking entirely deprived them of all moisture, to ensure their keep-
ing, but although that process is no longer employed, the name is re-
tained. The use of this kind of bread on land is general, and some
varieties are luxuries ; but at sea, biscuits are articles of the first neces-
sity. Fancy biscuits contain butter, eggs, milk, and various flavour-
ings. They are sold in enormous quantities. Sea or ship-biscuits are
made of wheat flour, from which only the coarsest bran has been separ-
ated. Dough is made up as stiff as it can be worked, and is then formed
into shapes, and baked in an oven ; after which the biscuits are exposed
in lofts over the oven until perfectly dry, to prevent them from becom-
ing mouldy when stored. Captains’ biscuits are made in a similar
manner, but of finer flour. Particulars of the different kinds and
prices will be found in the marketing portion of the book.
RECIPES FOR MAKING
BREAD, BISCUITS,
AND CAKES
CHAPTER XL VI I
Bread, Biscuits, Buns, Cakes, Muffins, Crumpets, Rolls,
Toast, Gingerbread, Rusks, Icing and Yeast
Bread
3306. — AMERICAN BREAD. (To be eaten hot.)
Ingredients. — 1 breakfast-cupful of white Indian meal, 2 breakfast-
cupfuls of flour, 3 eggs, cups of milk, 2 ozs. of butter, 1 oz. of white
sugar, \ an oz. of cream of tartar, \ of an oz. of carbonate of soda, £ of
an oz. of salt.
Method. — Sift the cream of tartar and soda well with the flour, meal
and sugar on the board, make a “ bay,” put in the butter, and rub with
the hand until smooth, then add the salt, in fine powder, and break in
the ’eggs ; give them a good rub round with the tips of the fingers,
then add the milk, and wet up into a soft smooth paste. Divide it
out into convenient-sized pieces, put into tins, and bake in a moderate
oven. When done, turn out on to a clean cloth laid on a plate, and
send to table.
This bread should be eaten hot from the oven. It makes a very
acceptable breakfast dish. When cutting the bread, care must be
taken not to press it heavily ; a sharp knife must therefore be used with
a sawing kind of motion, for this is the only possible way to cut
hot bread or cakes without dragging the crumb and rendering it heavy
and sticky. If preferred, the bread can be baked in small patty-
pans, and when cooked, broken open, a small piece of butter put in, and
sent to table.
Italian Millet, or Great Indian Millet, is cultivated in Egypt and Nubia, where it is called
dhourra, and is used as human food and also for the fermentation of beer. It will grow on poor
soils, and is extremely productive. Millet has been introduced into Italy, where a coarse bread is
made from it; and it is also employed in pastry and puddings, and used for feeding horses and
domestic fowls. It is the largest variety of millet, and grows to the height of 6 feet, but it
requires a warm climate, and will not ripen in this country. A yellow variety, called “ Golden
Millet,” is sold in the grocers’ shops for making puddings. It is very delicate and wholesome.
1408
BREAD
Wholemeal, Baton Roll, Vienna, Hovis, Tin, Bermaline, Teacake, Large Sandwich, Crescent
Roll, Dinner Roll, Vienna Roll, Bun, Bloomar, Coburg, Kohler, Sally Lunn, Round Scone,
Brown Loaf, Milk Scone, Household, Brick, Cottage, Farm House.
64 yy*
RECIPES FOR BREAD, BISCUITS, AND CAKES 1409
3307. — BAKING-POWDER BREAD.
Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of flour, 1 oz. of baking-powder, f- of an oz. of
salt, milk.
Method. — First rub the salt to fine powder on the table with a knife,
and mix it and the baking-powder into the flour on the board ;
then make a bay in the centre of the flour, pour in about 1 pint of
milk, knead up as quickly as possible, and with very little handling, into
a nice light dough. Divide it into convenient sized loaves, shape them
up, wash over with a little milk, and bake in a quick oven. It is very
necessary to get the loaves into the oven with the greatest despatch,
for the baking-powder very soon loses its virtue, and if the operation
is protracted after the dough is moistened, the bread will be heavy.
Although milk is given as one of the ingredients, water may be used if
economy is a consideration.
Time. — f- of an hour. Average Cost. 6d.
3308. — HOME-MADE BREAD, GOOD.
Ingredients. — i- a pint of brewer’s yeast, 1 lb. of potatoes, 1 peck and
\ a lb. of flour, 2 quarts of cold water, and i-J- ozs. of salt.
Method. — Procure \ a pint of good brewer’s yeast, fresh from the
brewhouse, and see that it weighs at least 3-J- ozs. Having procured
the yeast, boil about 1 lb. of potatoes in their skins, first washing them
clean. When cooked, strain away the liquor they were boiled in, turn
into a clean wooden pail, add \ a lb. of flour, and pound them well with
the end of a rolling-pin, then add 2 quarts of cold water, stir the in-
gredients up, and mix well. Put 1 peck of flour into a large pan, make
a hole in the centre, place a couple of sticks across the top, set a sieve
over the hole in the centre, and strain the liquor into it, using more water
to rinse through every particle of the potatoes, leaving the skins per-
fectly clean in the sieve ; now add the \ pint of yeast, and stir in suffi-
cient flour to make a thin batter, cover over, and leave the mixture
for about 2 hours. By that time it should have fermented and dropped
about 1 inch. Then add \\ ozs. of salt and sufficient water to make
the flour into dough. Knead well, and leave dry, cover over with a
clean cloth, and let it prove for i-J- hours. Then knead it over, and
throw out on to the board, divide into convenient-sized pieces, mould
or make up into suitable-shaped loaves, prove, and then bake in a
moderate oven. The time taken to bake will of course depend upon the
size of the loaves. A 2-lb. loaf in a moderate oven will take from 20
to 40 minutes, and larger loaves in proportion.
3309. -HOME-MADE BREAD. (Another Method.)
Ingredients.- — 1 peck of flour, 2 ozs. of compressed or distillery yeast,
i-l- ozs. of salt, 3 quarts of water.
z z
Izj 10
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method.- Turn the flour into a clean pan. and make a “ bay,” or hole
in the centre. Let the water be about 8o° Fahr., or blood-warm, so
it feels neither hotter nor colder than the hand when placed in the water.
Put the water into a bowl, add the yeast and salt, and stir up well with
the hand till dissolved, then turn it into the bay, and make up into
rather a stiff dough ; knead well, and leave dry, cover over with a clean
cloth, and set the pan of dough in a warm place to prove for at least
2 hours, then give it another good kneading and drying over, and leave
it for another hour ; turn out on to the board, divide into suitable-
sized pieces, make into loaves, prove and bake.
3310. — INDIAN CORNFLOUR BREAD.
Ingredients. — 7 lbs. of flour, \\ lbs. of Indian cornflour, i|- ozs. of
yeast, 1 oz. of salt, water.
Method. — Wet the cornflour with \ a pint of cold water in a large
pan or basin, and then scald it in the same manner as for a blanc mange
by pouring over about 1 pint of boiling water, stirring well all the time.
Let it stand to get cold, and when the hand can be borne in it without
inconvenience, add the yeast dissolved in a little tepid water. Cover
over, and let the mixture stand for 2 hours. Put the flour into a pan,
and make a well in the centre ; dissolve the salt in another quart of
warm water, add it to the scalded cornflour, well mix, turn it into the
flour in the pan, and make up into dough, using a little more water if
necessary. Let the dough lie w^ell covered up in a warm place to
well prove, and when ready, turn out on to the board, divide off into
convenient sized pieces, mould up, let them stand to prove, and then
bake in a moderate oven. This bread will be found particularly sweet,
and will make a very desirable change for breakfast or tea. The crust
will be very pale and crisp.
Time. — 2 or 3 hours. Average Cost, is. 8d.
3311. — MALTED BROWN BREAD.
Ingredients. — 3^ lbs. of wholemeal, \ an oz. of salt, -J- an oz. of yeast,
1 oz. of malt extract, water.
Method. — Put the meal into a clean pan, make a “ bay ” or hole in
the centre. Dissolve the yeast and malt extract in 1^ pints of warm
water, turn into the bay, and stir in about -J- of the meal, cover over
with a clean cloth, and set it in a warm place for 2 hours. At the end
of that time add the salt (rubbed to fine powder under the rolling-pin),
and mix in the remainder of the meal, turn it out on the board, divide
it into convenient-sized loaves, put into clean greased pans or tins,
prove for 1 hour, then bake in a moderate oven.
This process will make a very nice, sweet-eating and palatable malt
bread.
RECIPES FOR BREAD, BISCUITS, AND CAKES 1411
3312. — MILK BREAD.
Ingredients. — 4 lbs. of Vienna flour, f of an oz. of salt, f- of an oz. of
yeast, 1 quart of milk and water.
Method. — Make the milk and water warm, then dissolve the salt and
yeast in it, and make into a nice smooth dough. Cover over with a
clean cloth, and keep the dough in a warm place for 3 hours ; at the
end of that time turn it out on to the board, and- give it a good knead-
ing and dusting over ; cover again, and keep warm for 1 hour for the
dough to recover itself, then divide it into convenient-sized pieces and
mould them up round. Let them stand on the board, and cover up
with a cloth to prove. When light enough, wash over with a beaten-
up egg, using a brush for the purpose. When all the loaves are washed
over, take a sharp knife and cut them five or six times cross-wise. Now
take each loaf separately, place it in the oven, cover over with a square
tin, and bake in a moderate heat. Skimmed milk, or half milk and
half water, may be used if economy is desired, but in the latter case
it will be necessary to add 2 ozs. of butter to this quantity.
3313. — RICE BREAD. ( Fr . — Pain de Riz.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of rice, 7 lbs. of flour, 1 oz. of salt, i\ ozs. of com-
pressed yeast, water.
Method. — Wash the rice in cold water, put it in a clean saucepan,
cover with water, set over the fire, and cook until tender. Turn the
flour into a clean pan, make a hole in the centre, put in the boiled rice,
add 1 quart of cold water, and stir up gently without mixing in much
flour ; test the heat, and if cold enough, add the yeast, dissolved in
another pint of water, stirring it into the rice with another handful of
flour. Cover over with a clean cloth, and let it stand for 2 hours, then
add the salt in fine powder, and make into dough, using any more water
that may be necessary for the purpose. Cover over, and leave the
dough to rise, then turn out on to the board, divide into convenient-
sized loaves, mould up, prove, then bake in a moderate oven. The
rice can be boiled in milk if preferred.
Time. — About 4 hours. Average Cost, is. 4d. Sufficient for 6 or 8
loaves.
3314. — TEA BREAD. (Fr. — Petits Pain de the.)
Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of flour, I of a lb. of butter, \ of a lb. of sugar, 1 qzf
of salt, ozs. of yeast, \\ pints of milk and water, 4 yolks of eggs.
Method. —Make the milk and water lukewarm, turn it into a con-
venient-sized basin, dissolve the yeast and 2 ozs. of the sugar in it,
stir in ^ of a lb. of flour, cover over with a clean cloth, and stand aside
in a warm place for 20 minutes. While this is standing, weigh the
1412
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
remainder of the flour on to the board, rub the butter into it with the
hands, then make a bay, add the other 2 ozs. of sugar, the yolks of
eggs, and the salt in fine powder, and then if the ferment is ready put
it into the bay, wet up into a smooth paste, give it a good kneading,
then cover over with a clean cloth, and leave it to prove. When well
proved, divide up into pieces about 2 ozs. in weight, and form them
into various shapes — twists, crescents, scrolls, rosettes, or any other
shape fancy may suggest. As these are formed, set them on to a clean
tin, cover them over and leave to prove. When well proved, wash
them over with a beaten-up egg, and bake in a moderately warm oven
to a nice colour.
These rolls are very much appreciated for afternoon tea, tennis and
garden parties, and are an excellent adjunct to coffee, cut up into
slices and dried in the oven as rusks.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, is. 8d. Sufficient for 30 to 40
rolls.
3315. — UNFERMENTED BREAD.
Ingredients. — 2\ lbs. of whole meal, 1 lb. of white flour, \ an oz. of
carbonate of soda, \ an oz. of muriatic acid, water.
Method. — Turn the flour, meal and soda into a pan, and mix them
well together, make a “ bay ” or hole in the centre, then take about 1
quart of cold water in a jug, and mix the muriatic acid into it, turn
into the bay, and mix into a paste as quickly as possible. Divide into
suitable-sized loaves, put them into tins and into the oven as soon as
they are placed in the tins. It is important that the paste is not
handled more than is necessary, for the gas once evolved soon loses
its strength, and may result in heavy, unpalatable bread. This bread
can also be made entirely of white flour if preferred.
Note. — Lime water is very useful and beneficial in bread-making ; it im-
parts all the whiteness and softness produced by the use of alum, and has
the further merit of taking away any acidity there may be in the dough.
The process has been patented by a Scotch firm of bakers.
3316. — WHOLEMEAL BREAD, FERMENTED.
Ingredients. — 3^ lbs. of wholemeal, fine, coarse, or medium, as desired,
-J- an oz. of salt, \ an oz. of compressed yeast, water.
Method. — Put the yeast and salt into a clean bowl, add 1 \ pints of
warm water, and dissolve the yeast and salt in it. Then mix in the
whole of the meal, making a smooth but rather soft dough, cover over,
and stand aside in a warm place for about 3 hours, then turn out on to
the board, and divide into convenient-sized pieces, mould up, and place
into clean greased tins, let them stand to prove for 1 hour, then bake
in a moderate oven.
RECIPES FOR BREAD, BISCUITS, AND CAKES 1413
3317.—' WHOLEMEAL BREAD, UNFERMENTED. *
Ingredients. — -14 lbs. of medium wholemeal, 2\ lbs. of flour, 4 ozs. of
sugar, 6 ozs. of cream of tartar, 3 ozs. of carbonate of soda, 3 ozs. of
salt.
Method. — Rub the sugar, cream, soda, and salt through a fine hair
sieve on to the flour, mix well together, then add to the meal, put
it into a clean dry tub, and keep it for use as required. When
wanted, take the quantity of the mixture desired, put it into a clean
pan, add sufficient water to wet it into a soft dough, place into tins,
and bake.
It is best to mix the ingredients together a few days before they are
required for use. The preparation must be kept in a dry place ; it will
then keep for an indefinite time.
Biscuits
3318. — ARROWROOT BISCUITS OR DROPS.
Ingredients. — -§• a lb. of butter, 6 eggs, \ a lb. of flour, 6 ozs. of arrow-
root, \ a lb. of castor sugar.
Method. — Beat the butter to a cream ; whisk the eggs to a stiff
froth, add them gradually to the butter, stir in the sugar a little at a
time, and beat the mixture well. Smooth down all the lumps from the
arrowroot and sift it with the flour and then add to the other in-
gredients. Mix all well together, drop the dough on a buttered tin
in pieces the size of a shilling, and bake the biscuits for about a J of
an hour in a slow oven.
Time. — } of an hour. Average Cost, is. 6d. Sufficient to make from
3 to 4 dozen biscuits.
331 9. — BISCUIT POWDER. (Generally used for In-
fants’ Food.)
This powder may be purchased in tin canisters, and may also be
prepared at home. Dry the biscuits well in a slow oven ; roll them
and grind them with a rolling pin on a clean board until they are re-
duced to powder ; sift the powder through a close hair sieve, and it
is then fit for use. It should be kept in well-covered tins, and in a
dry place.
Average Cost, 6d. per lb.
3320. — COCOANUT BISCUITS OR CAKES.
Ingredients. — 10 ozs. of castor sugar, 2 whites of eggs, 6 ozs. desiccated
cocoanut.
1414
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Beat the whites of eggs to a stiff froth, add the other ingre-
dients and form into pyramids; place the pyramids on paper, put the
paper on tins, and bake the biscuits in rather a cool oven until they are
just coloured a light brown. Dried or desiccated cocoanut is now
sold at a moderate price, and its use saves much trouble and labour.
Time. — About J of an hour. Average Cost, 8d. or 9d. Sufficient for
15 to 20 biscuits.
3321. — COCOANUT BISCUITS.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of grated cocoanut,- 2 lbs. of sugar, 5 eggs, 2 tea-
cupfuls of flour.
Method. — Rasp a good fresh cocoanut on a grater, letting none of the
rind fall. Spread the cocoanut thus grated on a dish, and let stand
in some cool dry place 2 days to dry gradually, or desiccated cocoanut
can be used in the proportions given. Add to it double its weight of
powdered and sifted loaf sugar, the whites of 5 eggs whisked to a stiff
froth, and 1 teacupful of flour to every pound of sugar. Drop the
mixture on a baking-tin 1 spoonful at a time, like rock cakes, or into
proper drop-cake tins. Bake in a very gentle oven for about 20
minutes ; move the biscuits out of the tins while warm, and when
cold, store them in a tin canister.
Time. — 20 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. to 2s. Sufficient for 3J lbs.
of biscuits.
3322. — COCOANUT GEMS.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of castor sugar, 1 lb. of desiccated cocoanut, 4
whites of eggs, the juice of \ a lemon, essence of vanilla.
Method. — Break the whites of eggs into a very clean basin, add the
juice of \ a lemon and the sugar, beat up these ingredients into a stiff
paste that will not run out of the pan when turned upside down. When
well beaten, stir in the desiccated cocoanut. Cover baking-sheets with
wafer paper, and lay the mixture out in small biscuits about the size
of walnuts, pinching them together very tightly with the fingers when
the biscuits have all been laid out. Proceed to bake them in a very
slow oven ; when done and cold, pack them away in a tin for use as
required.
Time. — 1 to 2 hours. Average Cost, is. 6d. Sufficient for 4 or 5 dozen.
3323- — CRISP BISCUITS.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of flour, the yolk of 1 egg, milk.
Method. — Mix the flour and the yolk of the egg with sufficient milk
to make the whole into a very stiff paste; beat it well, knead it until
it is perfectly smooth. Roll the paste out very thinly ; with a round
RECIPES FOR BREAD, BISCUITS, AND CAKES 1415
cutter shape it into biscuits, prick them with a fork and bake them a
nice brown in a slow oven from 12 to 18 minutes.
Time. — 12 to 18 minutes. Average Cost, 4c!. Sufficient to make from
3 to 4 dozen biscuits.
3324. — DESSERT BISCUITS (which may be flavoured
with Ground Ginger, Cinnamon, etc.).
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of flour, \ a lb. of butter, \ a lb. of castor sugar,
the yolks of 6 eggs, flavouring to taste.
Method. — Put the butter into a basin ; warm it, but do not allow it
to oil ; then with a wooden spoon beat it to a cream. Add the flour
by degrees, then the sugar and flavouring, and moisten the whole with
the yolks of the eggs, which should previously be well beaten. When
all the ingredients are thoroughly incorporated, drop the mixture from
a spoon on to a buttered paper, leaving a distance between each cake,
as they spread as soon as they begin to warm. Bake in rather a slow
oven from 12 to 18 minutes, and do not let the biscuits acquire too
much colour. In making the above quantity, half may be flavoured
with ground ginger, and the other half with essence of lemon, or some
currants added to make a variety. The biscuits are named after the
preparation with which they are flavoured, and an endless variety
may be made in this manner.
Time. — 12 to 18 minutes, or rather longer in a very slow oven.
Average Cost, is. 6d. Sufficient to make from 3 to 4 dozen biscuits.
Seasonable at any time.
3325. — DEVILLED BISCUITS.
Ingredients. — 12 biscuits, \ a pint of Lucca oil, black pepper, cayenne,
salt.
Method. — Any kind of plain unsweetened thin biscuits will do. Soak
them in the oil, which should be of the best quality, sprinkle the season-
ing on both sides, and toast the biscuits on the fire or in front on a
gridiron.
Time. — 5 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
3326. — GINGER BISCUITS.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of flour, \ a lb. of fresh butter, \ a lb. of castor
sugar, | of an oz. of ground ginger, 2 eggs.
Method. — Rub the butter and ginger into the flour on the board,
make a “ bay ” or hole, break in the eggs, and wet up into a nice work-
able paste, using a little milk if necessary. Roll down in thin sheets,
1416
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
and cut out with a plain round cutter, set them on to a greased baking-
sheet, and bake in a cool oven.
Time.— 5 minutes, to bake. Average Cost, is. 2d. Sufficient to make
4 dozen biscuits. Seasonable in winter.
3327. — GINGERBREAD NUTS, RICH SWEETMEAT.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of treacle, f of a lb. of butter, 1 lb. of coarse brown
sugar, 2 ozs. of ground ginger, 1 oz. of candied orange-peel, 1 oz. of
candied angelica, f an oz. of candied lemon-peel, f an oz. of coriander
seeds, f of an oz. of caraway seeds, 1 egg, flour.
Method. — Put the treacle into a basin, and pour over it the butter,
melted so that it does not oil, the sugar, and ginger. Stir these in-
gredients well together, and while mixing add the candied peel, cut
into very small pieces, but not bruised, and the caraway and coriander
seeds, which should be pounded. Having mixed all thoroughly together,
break in an egg, and work the whole up with as much fine flour as may
be necessary to form a firm paste. Make this into nuts of any size,
put them on a baking tin, and place them in a slow oven from a f to f
an hour.
Time. — f to f an hour. Average Cost, is. 2d. Sufficient for 3 to 4 dozen
nuts.
3328. — GINGERBREAD NUTS, SUNDERLAND. (An
excellent recipe.)
Ingredients. — if lbs. of treacle, 1 lb. of moist sugar, 1 lb. of butter,
3 lbs. of flour, if ozs. of ground ginger, if ozs. of allspice, if ozs. of
coriander seeds.
Method. — Let the allspice, coriander seeds, and ginger be freshly
ground ; put them into a basin with the flour and sugar, and mix
these ingredients well together ; warm the treacle and butter together,
then with a spoon work the mixture into the flour, etc., until the
whole forms a nice smooth paste. Drop the mixture from the spoon
on to a piece of buttered paper and bake in rather a slow' oven from
20 to 30 minutes. A little candied lemon-peel mixed with the above
is an improvement.
Time. — 20 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. 6d.
3329. — HUNTING NUTS.
Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of flour, f a lb. of loaf sugar, f a lb. of candied
peel, 1 oz. of ground ginger, if lbs. of treacle, f a lb. of butter, f a tea-
spoonful of carbonate of soda, f a teaspoonful of ground mixed spice.
Method. — Mix the flour and soda together, add the sugar, peel, ginger,
and spice. Beat up the butter and treacle in a basin to a cream,
then add the other ingredients, and make up into rather a firm dough.
BISCUITS
i. Rich Digestive. 2. Reading Shortbread. 3. Reading Cracker. 4. Monarch. 5. Wheat-
meal. 6. Grilled Cake (Sultana). 7. Phillipine. 8. Ratifia. 9. Acorn. 10. Dinner Rolls.
11. Mixed Creams. 6. Grilled Cake (Plain). 12. Mixed. 13. Nursery Rhyme. 14. Nursery.
15. Fancy Cracknel. 16. Mixed Wine. 17. Dessert Wafers. 18. Coffee. 19. Tea Rusks. 20.
Atlantic. 21. Butter Finger. 22. Nice. 23. Concert. 24. Cinderella. 25. Breakfast. 26.
Macaroons (Italian). 27. Ginger Nuts.
* 65
zz
RECIPES FOR BREAD, BISCUITS, AND CAKES 1417
Let it stand for 4 hours before rolling out into cakes ; roll into long
flat cakes 3 inches long by \\ inches wide, and bake in a quick oven
for 8 or 10 minutes.
Time. — 8 to 10 minutes, to bake. Average Cost, 4-Jd. per dozen.
Sufficient for 4 dozen. Seasonable in October, November. December,
and January.
Note. — The long-shaped nut is found convenient for the hunting-coat
pocket.
3330. — LEMON BISCUITS.
ingredients. — i£ lbs. of flour, f- of a lb. of castor sugar, 6 ozs. of fresh
butter, 4 eggs, the grated rind of a lemon, 2 dessertspoonfuls of lemon-
juice.
Method. — Rub the butter into the flour, stir in the castor sugar and
very finely-minced lemon-peel, and when these ingredients are
thoroughly mixed, add the eggs, which should be previously well whisked,
and the lemon-juice. Beat the mixture well for 1 or 2 minutes, then
drop it from a spoon on to a buttered tin, about 2 inches apart, as the
biscuits will spread when they get warm ; place the tin in the oven, and
bake the biscuits a pale brown from 15 to 20 minutes.
Time. — 15 to 20 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. Sufficient for 3 or 4
biscuits. Seasonable at any time.
3331. — macaroons.
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of ground sweet almonds, £ of a lb. of castor
sugar, the whites of 3 eggs, wafer paper.
Method. — Mix the sugar and ground almonds well together on the
board, then put them into a large marble or porcelain mortar, add the
whites of eggs, and proceed to well rub the mixture into a smooth
paste. When it begins to get stiff and stands up well it is ready,
or if uncertain whether the paste has been pounded enough, try one in
the oven, and if all right, lay sheets of wafer paper over clean baking-
sheets, and lay out the biscuits upon it with a spoon, or savoy bag,
place a few split almonds on the top of each, then bake in a cool
oven.
Time. — 15 to 20 minutes in a slow oven. Average Cost, is. 3d. per lb.
Sufficient for 24 to 36 biscuits.
3332. — PLAIN BISCUITS.
Ingredients. — 6 ozs. of flour, 2 ozs. of castor sugar, 1 oz. of butter,
yolk of 1 egg, 2 tablespoonfuls of milk.
Method. — Beat the egg with the milk, then mix with the other in-
gredients, and roll and cut out into very thin biscuits with a paste
cutter. Bake for 6 minutes in a quick oven.
Time. — 6 minutes. Average Cost, 4d. Sufficient for \\ dozen biscuits.
1418
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
3333- RATAFIAS. (Fr. — Ratafias.)
Ingredients. — §• of a lb of sweet ground almonds, 2 ozs. of butter,
lbs. of castor sugar, the whites of 6 or 8 eggs.
Method. — Exactly the same as for macaroons, but the paste must be
a little softer, and they must be laid out in very small drops on to
sheets of clean white kitchen paper, laid over baking-plates, and baked
in a cool oven to a very pale colour.
Time. — 20 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. 3d. Sufficient for 60 or
80 ratafias.
3334. — RICE BISCUITS OR CAKES.
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of rice flour, of a lb. of castor sugar, \ of a lb.
of butter, 1 egg.
Method. — Beat the butter to a cream, stir in the rice flour and pounded
sugar, and moisten the whole with the egg, which should be previously
well beaten. Roll out the paste, cut out with a round paste cutter
into small cakes, and bake them from 12 to 18 minutes in a very slow
oven.
Time. — 12 to 18 minutes. Average Cost, 9d. Sufficient to make about
18 cakes.
Note. — Ground rice, or rice flour, is used for making several kinds of cakes,
also for thickening soups. The Americans make rice bread, and prepare
the flour for it in the following manner : When the rice is thoroughly cleansed,
the water is drawn off and the rice, while damp, bruised in a mortar ; it is
then dried, and passed through a hair sieve.
3335. — SAVOY BISCUITS OR CAKES.
Ingredients. — 4 eggs, 8 ozs. of castor sugar, a few drops of essence of
lemon, 8 ozs. of flour.
Method. — Break the eggs into a basin, beat well with the sugar and
essence of lemon for \ of an hour. Then dredge in the flour gradually,
and well but lightly mix. Then put the mixture into a savoy bag, lay
the biscuits out on to a sheet of thick cartridge paper, and bake them
in rather a hot oven ; but let them be carefully watched, as they are
soon done, and a few seconds over the proper time will scorch and spoil
them. These biscuits, or ladies’ fingers, as they are sometimes called,
are used for making Charlotte Russes and a variety of fancy sweet
dishes.
Time. — 10 to 12 minutes. Average Cost, 9d. Sufficient for 2 doz.
cakes.
3336. — SEED BISCUITS.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of flour, \ of a lb. of castor sugar, \ of a lb. of
butter, \ an oz. of caraway seeds, 3 eggs.
RECIPES FOR BREAD, BISCUITS, AND CAKES 1419
Method. — Beat the butter to a cream ; stir in the flour, sugar, and
caraway seeds; and when these ingredients are well mixed, add the
eggs, which should be well whisked. Roll out the paste, cut out the
buscuits with a round cutter, set them on to clean greased baking-
sheets, and bake them in a moderate oven from 10 to 15 minutes.
The tops of the biscuits may be brushed over with a little milk or the
white of an egg, and a little sugar strewn over.
Time. — 10 to 15 minutes. Average Cost, is. Sufficient to make 3
dozen biscuits.
3337.— SIMPLE HARD BISCUITS.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of flour, 2 ozs. of butter, about \ a pint of
skimmed milk.
Method. — Warm the butter in the milk, until the former is dissolved,
then mix it with the flour into a very stiff paste ; beat it with a rolling
pin until the dough looks perfectly smooth. Roll it out thin ; cut out
the paste with a plain round cutter ; prick the rounds well with a
fork and bake them from 6 to 10 minutes. The above is the propor-
tion of milk estimated to convert the flour into a stiff paste ; but
should it be found too much, an extra spoonful or two of flour must
be put in. These biscuits are very nice for the cheese course.
Time. — 6 to 10 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. Sufficient for 3 dozen
biscuits.
3338.— SODA BISCUITS.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of flour, \ a lb. of castor sugar, \ of a lb. of fresh
butter, 2 eggs, 1 small teaspoonful of carbonate of soda.
Method. — Put the flour into a clean basin, rub in the butter and
sugar, make a hole in the centre, break the eggs and beat them up
well with a wire egg whisk, dissolve the soda in a little water, turn all the
ingredients together into the hole, and wet up into rather a soft paste,
using a little milk if necessary. Turn out on to the board, dry over, and
roll down in sheets about a | of an inch thick, cut out with a small
plain round cutter, set on to clean greased baking-plates, and bake
in a warm oven.
Time. — 12 to 18 minutes. Average Cost, iod. Sufficient to make
about 3 dozen cakes.
3339.— VIRGINIA BISCUITS.
Ingredients. — Take i4 lbs. of flour, 1 tablespoonful of butter, 1 table-
spoonful of lard, 1 teaspoonful of salt, cold water.
1420
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Work the butter and the lard into the flour ; add the salt,
and moisten with cold water to a stiff paste. Beat this until it bubbles,
cut out into small biscuits, and prick with a fork, set the paste on to
clean baking-sheets, brush it over with milk, and bake in a warm oven.
The more beating, the better the biscuit.
Time. — 4 hour. Average Cost, 4d. Sufficient for 4 dozen cakes.
Seasonable at any time.
Buns
3340. — BATH BUNS.
Ingredients. — -i|- lbs. of flour, 10 ozs. of sugar nibs, i-J- ozs. of com-
pressed yeast, \ a lb. of butter, the yolks of 4 and the whites of 2 eggs,
water, caraway comfits, candied peel, essence of lemon.
Method. — -Dissolve the yeast in \ a gill of tepid water, mix with it the
eggs, and J of a lb. of flour ; beat the mixture up in a bowl, and set it
before the fire to rise. Rub the butter well into the 1 lb. of flour, add the
sugar, and put in a few of the comfits and the peel cut into small cubes.
When the sponge has risen sufficiently, mix all the ingredients to-
gether, throw over it a cloth, and set it again to rise. Grease a baking
tin, form the buns, place them on the tin, brush over yolk of egg and
milk, and strew on them a few comfits. Bake in a quick oven.
Time — About 20 minutes, to bake the buns. Average Cost, is. 8d.
Sufficient for 16 buns.
3341. — HOT CROSS BUNS.
Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of flour, \ a lb. of sugar, 1 oz. of yeast, 1 pint of
warm milk, \ a lb. of butter, 1 lb. of currants, \ a teaspoonful of salt,
1 teaspoonful of mixed spice.
Method. — Mix the flour, sugar, spice and currants ; make a hole in
the middle of the flour, put in the yeast and •§■ a pint of warmed milk ;
make a thin batter of the surrounding flour and milk, and set the pan
covered before the fire until the leaven begins to ferment. Put to the
mass -§• a lb. of melted butter, add the salt, and beat well together,
make up into rather a soft paste with all the flour, using a little more
warm milk if necessary. Cover this with a clean cloth, and let it once
more rise up for \ an hour. Shape the dough in buns, and lay them
apart on buttered tin plates or baking-sheets in rows at least 3 inches
apart, to rise for \ an hour. Place a cross mould on them (this may
be done roughly with the back of a knife), and bake in a quick oven
from 15 to 20 minutes.
Time. — 15 to 20 minutes, to bake. Average Cost, id. each. Sufficient
to make 2 dozen buns. Seasonable on Good Friday.
RECIPES FOR BREAD, BISCUITS, AND CAKES 1421
3342. — LEMON BUNS. (Fr. — Baba au Citron.)
Ingredients. — J of a lb. of butter, \ a lb. of sugar, 1 lb. of flour, 2 eggs,
4 of an oz. of ammonia, a teacupful of milk, a few drops of essence of
lemon.
Method.— Put the ammonia into a mortar and rub it down in the
milk. Weigh the flour on to the board, make a bay, put in the sugar
and butter, add a few drops of essence of lemon, and rub the ingredients
together till smooth ; then add the eggs and dissolved ammonia, wet
up into a smooth paste, divide it into 3-oz. pieces, flatten it out, wash
it over with milk, turn it over on to castor sugar, place the buns on to
greased baking tins, lay a slice of lemon-peel on the top, and bake in a
warm oven.
Time. — 1 hour, to bake. Average Cost, is. Suflicient for 10 large buns.
3343. — LIGHT BUNS.
Ingredients. — 1} teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, 1 lb. of flour, 2 ozs.
of butter, 2 ozs. of castor sugar, \ of a lb. of currants or sultanas — if
liked, a few caraway seeds — % a pint of cold new milk, 1 egg (which
can be omitted).
Method. — Rub the baking-powder and flour together through a fine
sieve ; work the butter into the flour ; add the sugar, currants, and
caraway seeds, when the flavour of the latter is liked. Mix all these
ingredients well together ; make a hole in the middle of the flour, and
pour in the milk mixed with the egg, which should be well beaten ;
mix quickly, and set the dough with a fork on baking-tins, and bake
the buns for about 20 minutes.
This mixture makes a very good cake, but if put into a tin should be
baked for \\ hours. The same quantity of flour and baking-powder,
with \ a pint of milk and a little salt, will make either bread or teacakes
if wanted quickly.
Time. — 20 minutes for the buns ; if made into a cake, \\ hours.
Average Cost, iod. Sufficient to make about 12 buns.
3344. — MADEIRA BUNS.
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of butter, 2 eggs, 14 ozs. of flour, 6 ozs. of castor
sugar, a teaspoonful of ground ginger, \ a dessertspoonful of caraway
seeds, a little nutmeg, \ wineglassful of sherry.
Method. — Put the butter and castor sugar into a clean basin, and set
it on top of the stove to soften. Then beat to a cream with a wooden
spoon ; add in the eggs, one at a time, beating up well after each.
Then add the flour, spices, and caraway seeds, and moisten with the
wine. Divide the batter out into some greased patty-pans, put them
on a baking tin and bake in a moderately hot oven for 25 to 30 minutes.
Time. — About 50 minutes to 1 hour. Average Cost, is. 6d. Sufficient
to make 12 buns.
1422
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
3345. PLAIN BUNS.
Ingredients. — To every 2 lbs. of flour allow 6 ozs. of moist sugar, 1 oz.
of yeast, \ a pint of milk, \ a lb of butter, 1 pint of tepid milk.
Method. — Put the flour into a basin, mix the sugar well with it, make a
well in the centre, and stir in the yeast and -J-pint of milk (which should
be lukewarm), with enough of the flour to make it the thickness of cream.
Cover the basin over with a cloth, and let the sponge rise in a warm
place, which will be accomplished in about i-t hours. Melt the butter,
but do not allow it to oil ; stir it into the other ingredients, using a
little more milk if necessary, and make the whole into a soft dough.
Mould it into buns about the size of an egg ; then lay them in rows
quite 3 inches apart ; set them again in a warm place until they have
risen to double their size ; then put them into a good brisk oven, and
when they are done wash them over with a little milk. From 15 to 20
minutes will be required to bake them nicely. These buns may be
varied by adding a few currants, candied peel or caraway seeds to the
other ingredients. The above mixture also answers for hot cross
buns, by putting a little ground mixed spice, and by pressing a tin
mould in the form of a cross in the centre of the bun.
Time. — 15 to 20 minutes to bake. Average Cost, id. each. Sufficient
to make 24 buns.
3346. — VICTORIA BUNS.
Ingredients. — 2 ozs. of castor sugar, 1 egg, 1} ozs. of ground rice, 2 ozs.
of butter, i4 ozs. of currants, a few thin slices of candied peel, flour, ^ a
dessertspoonful of baking-powder.
Method. — Whisk the egg, stir in the sugar, and beat these ingredients
well together ; beat the butter to a cream, stir in the ground rice,
currants, and candied peel, then the beaten eggs and sugar, and as
much flour as will make it of such a consistency that it may be rolled
into 7 or 8 balls. Put these on to a buttered tin, and bake them
from to £ of an hour. The buns sheuld be put into the oven
immediately, or they will become heavy. The oven should be moder-
ately heated.
Time. — \ to £ of an hour. Average Cost, 6d. Sufficient to make 7 or
8 buns.
Cakes
3347.— ALMOND CAKE.
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of ground sweet almonds, \ an oz. of pounded bitter
almonds, 6 ozs. of castor sugar, 3 ozs. of butter, 14 ozs. of flour, 6 eggs,
essence of lemon.
RECIPES FOR BREAD, BISCUITS, AND CAKES 1423
Method. — Break the eggs into a clean bowl, add the sugar, previously
warmed, and beat the mixture well together with a wire egg whisk until
it is as thick as cream ; then add the butter (melted), then mix in the
almonds, flour (sifted), and essence of lemon with a spoon.
Butter a plain mould, fill it with the mixture, and bake in a steady
oven. It will require from if- to 2 hours to bake, and great care must
be taken to prevent the mixture burning. As a precaution it is
advisable to lay 3 or 4 thicknesses of newspaper under the mould,
and wrap the same round the sides, fixing the paper in place with a
piece of twine.
Time. — 2 to 2|- hours. Average Cost, 2s.
3348. ALMOND SPONGE CAKE. (Good.)
Ingredients. — Take 12 eggs (leave out the whites of 8), f of a lb. of
castor sugar, 2 ozs. of bitter almonds, f of a lb. of sifted flour.
Method. — Blanch the almonds and roll like a paste. While rolling
them moisten them with rose-water. Blanching them in hot water will
loosen the skin which can then be easily removed. Break the eggs in
a bowl and beat them up with a whisk. Add the sugar, and beat
until light and creamy, then beat in the almonds, add the flour
sifted, stir it in lightly, and bake in a square greased tin.
Time. — 20 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, is. 3d. Sufficient for 1 cake.
3349. — AUNT BETSEY’S CAKE.
Ingredients. — 5 teacupfuls of flour, 2 teacupfuls of sugar, -f- a cup of
butter, 1 cup of golden syrup, 1 cup of water, 2 eggs, \ of a lb. of chopped
raisins, 1 teaspoonful (each) of soda, cloves, cinnamon, and mace.
Method. — Beat the butter and sugar together ; add the eggs, dissolve
the soda in the water, then add the molasses, flour, spices and fruit,
and well work the mixture in the bowl. Turn it into a flat square
tin baking-dish and bake in a moderate oven, or if preferred it can be
cooked in small crinkled patty-pans.
Time. — 1 to i|- hours. Average Cost, is.
3350. — AUNTIE’S CAKES. (Delicious.)
Ingredients. — of a lb. of cornflour, \ a lb. of flour, 2 teaspoonfuls of
baking powder, the rind of 2 small lemons, \ a lb. of castor sugar,
£ of a lb. of butter, 4 eggs.
Method. — Chop the lemcn-rind up very finely ; well mix the flour
and baking-powder together on a sheet of paper ; put the butter into
a clean basin and beat it up to a cream with a large wooden spoon,
then add the sugar, and beat the ingredients until they are light and
white, add the eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition
of eggs, and when all the eggs have been beaten in, add the flour and
1424
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
peel, and wet into rather a soft batter with a little milk. Grease the
patty-pans with a little clean lard, and drop 1 dessertspoonful of the
batter into each. Bake in a warm oven.
Time. — 5 minutes to bake. Average Cost, 2s. 2d. for this quantity.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 dozen cakes.
3351.— BOSTON BREAKFAST CAKES.
Ingredients. — 1 quart of milk, 1 large spoonful of sugar, 1 oz. of dis-
tillery yeast, 2 eggs, a little salt, flour.
Method. — Dissolve the yeast in the milk, add the sugar, and stir in
about f of a lb. of flour, beat into a good tough batter, set it aside
where it will not get chilled, and leave it all night, but do not stand it
where it will be too hot, or it will turn sour. In the morning add the
eggs and a little salt in fine powder, and after beating it well up adding
a little more flour, but using only enough to prevent the dough run-
ning ; then let it prove, and divide up into 2-oz. pieces, prove on a
. 'floured .board, and cook either on a hot plate or in the oven. When
done, break them open, and give a liberal allowance of butter. Send
to table steaming hot.
Time. — \ hour, to bake. Sufficient for one dozen cakes. Average
Cost, id. each. Seasonable at any time.
3352.— BREAKFAST CAKE.
Ingredients.— 1 lb. of bread dough, 2 ozs. of butter, 2 ozs. of castor
sugar, 2 eggs.
Method. — Spread the dough on the board, lay the sugar and butter
on top, break the eggs, and rub well together with the hands until it is
well mixed, then put it into a tin, and let it prove until it becomes light,
then bake in a moderately warm oven.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, yd. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
3353- — BREAKFAST CAKES.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of flour, \ a teaspoonful of baking-powder, \ a
teaspoonful of salt, f of a pint of milk, 1 oz. of castor sugar, 2 eggs.
Method. — These cakes are made in the same manner as the bread,
with the addition of eggs and sugar. Mix the flour, baking-powder
and salt well together, and stir in the sifted sugar. Add the milk and
the eggs, which should be well whisked, and with this liquid work the
flour, etc., into a light dough. Divide it into small cakes, put them
into the oven immediately, and bake for about 20 minutes.
Time. — 20 minutes to bake. Average Cost, 6d. Sufficient for 18 or
20 cakes.
RECIPES FOR BREAD, BISCUITS, AND CAKES 1425
3354.— BRIDE OR CHRISTENING CAKE.
Ingredients. — 3-J- lbs. of the finest flour, 3 lbs. of fresh butter, lbs.
of currants, 3 lbs. of raw sugar, 2 grated nutmegs, 4 of an oz. of mace,
f of an oz. of cloves, 24 eggs, 1 lb. of sweet whole blanched almonds,
\ a lb. of candied citron, f of a lb. each of candied orange- and lemon-
peel, 1 gill of wine, 1 gill of brandy.
Method. — Take some good strong household flour and rub it through
a fine sieve on to a sheet of paper. Well wash, dry and pick the currants
free from stones and sprigs, and lay them on the table ready for use.
Blanch the almonds, shred the peel very fine, and mix it with the
currants. Break the eggs, taking especial care to eliminate any that
are bad or musty, and put them into a clean basin. Weigh the sugar
and roll it on the table with a rolling-pin to break up all lumps ; put
it in a large pan, add the butter and all the spices in fine powder, and
proceed to beat the mixture up to a light cream with the hand ; add
the eggs 2 at a time, allowing an interval of at least 5 minutes between
each addition of eggs, beating as hard as possible all the time. Wb’en
all the eggs have been put in, mix in the fruit and peel, and' lastof all
add the flour, with the wine and spirits. When thoroughly well
mixed, put it out into well papered hoops and press it down in the
centre with the back of the hand, set it into a cool oven and bake for
about 6 hours. This recipe will make about 24 lbs. of cake, but if a
fairly large oven is not available, it would be better not to bake the
whole of this quantity in one hoop, or it will not make a very satisfac-
tory cake, as the top and sides will be burnt and dried before the cake
can be properly cooked. It would therefore be preferable to divide it
into 2 or more smaller cakes. To ascertain if the cake is properly
cooked, test it with a clean skewer or larding needle, taking care that
the skewer is perfectly clean and dry ; plunge it lightly into the centre
of the cake, and if done the skewer will come out perfectly clean. On
the other hand, according to the quantity and condition of the paste
which adheres to the skewer the identical state of its rawness can be
estimated, and individual judgment must determine how much longer
it will require in the oven. As these cakes are better for keeping, it
is advisable to make and bake them at least 3 months before they are
required. If this is done, the best way to keep them is to strip off all
the paper they were baked in, and then to wrap up each cake in a
large sheet of rice parchment or wax paper, then wrap it up in several'
thicknesses of clean newspaper, pack away in a tin or airtight box,
and stow away in a dry cool place.
Wedding or Bride’s Cakes are thickly encrusted with almond icing
(No. 3459), and then iced over with icing No. 3463, and when dry
are decorated with piping, silver leaves, artificial flowers and gum paste
ornaments. Where something special is desired, natural flowers
are used for decoration.
Time. — To bake, 5 to 6 hours. Average Cost, 2s. per pound.
1426 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
3355- BRIOCHES. (Fr. — Brioches.)
Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of flour, 1 lb. of butter, 1 oz. of German yeast,
4 ozs. of sugar, 8 eggs, \ an oz. of salt, water.
Method. — Put \ a lb. of the flour on a board, hollow it in the centre,
put in the yeast dissolved in a little warm water, mix rather tight, and
set it to rise in a covered pan near the fire. Put the rest of the flour
on the board, and after making a hole in the centre, add the butter,
salt, sugar, and 4 eggs, and work till the paste is smooth. When the
sponge is well risen (it ought to expand to double its original size),
mix it with the paste, and again set it to rise for 3 hours. Next put
the paste on a board, knead it well, and fold it over 2 or 3 times, and a
third time set it to rise for 2 hours ; once more knead it out, fold it up,
and put on the ice or a cool place till firm. This dough may be used
for small cakes, or to form cases for compotes, custards, etc.
3356.— CALIFORNIA JUMBLES.
Ingredients.— x lb. of sugar, 1 lb. of butter, i|- lbs. of flour, 2 ozs. of
grated lemon-peel, the whites of 4 eggs.
Method. — Beat the butter and sugar together very lightly, add the
lemon and the egg whites, then sieve and mix in the flour. Turn out
on to a paste boai'd and mould up into a stiff dough, divide it into 4
or 5 pieces, and roll them out carefully into lengths about the
thickness of the little finger. Cut off into 4-inch lengths, turn the
ends in scroll fashion, set them on a clean greased tin, leaving plenty
of room for them to spread, and bake in a moderate oven.
Time. — \ hour. Average Cost, 2s. to 2s. 3d. Sufficient for 3 dozen
jumbles.
3357-— CHRISTMAS CAKE , No. 1. (Fr.— Gateau de Noel.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of butter, 1 lb. of castor sugar, 1 lb. of sultanas,
1 lb. of currants, f- of a lb. of mixed candied peel, 2 lbs. of flour, \ an
oz. of baking-powder, 8 eggs, milk.
Method. — Sieve the baking-powder 2 or 3 times with the flour on to
a sheet of paper to mix well. Put the butter and the sugar into a
clean pan and stand in front of the fire to soften. Weigh the fruit on
to the flour, having carefully cleaned and picked them free from stalks
and stones. Cut up the peel into thin shreds, and lay it with the fruit
and flour. Break the eggs into a clean basin. Now proceed to beat
up the butter and sugar into a cream with your hand, add the eggs in
1 at a time, beating well after each addition of eggs. When all are in,
add the flour and fruit, moisten to the usual cake batter consistency with
milk, and bake in round or square well-papered and greased tins. This
will make about 7 lbs. of cake, and can be baked in 1 or more cakes,
as desired.
Time. — 3 to 4 hours to bake. Average Cost, iod. per lb.
RECIPES FOR BREAD, BISCUITS, AND CAKES 1427
3358. — CHRISTMAS CAKE, No. 2.
Ingredients. — f of a lb. of butter, | of a lb. of raw sugar, 2} lbs. of
currants, \ a lb. of mixed peel, 2 lbs. of flour, £ an oz. of baking-powder,
6 eggs, milk, mixed spice.
Method. — Exactly the same as in the previous recipe. These cakes
are sometimes iced over with almond icing (No. 3469), and then iced
and decorated with white and coloured sugar icing (No. 3461). This
of course is quite optional.
Time. — 3 to 4 hours to bake. Average Cost, 8d. per lb.
3359. — CHRISTMAS CAKE, No. 3.
Ingredients. — 2} teacupfuls of flour, £ a teacupful of melted butter.
1 teacupful of cream, 1 teacupful of treacle, f of a teacupful of moist
sugar, 2 eggs, } an oz. of powdered ginger, \ a lb. of raisins, 1 teaspoon-
ful of carbonate of soda, 1 tablespoonful of vinegar.
Method. — Make the butter sufficiently warm to melt it, but do not
allow it to oil ; put the flour into a basin, add to it the sugar, ginger
and raisins, which' should be stoned and cut into small pieces. When
these dry ingredients are thoroughly mixed, stir in the butter, cream,
treacle, and well whisked eggs, and beat the mixture for a few minutes.
Mix the soda with the dry ingredients, taking great care to leave no
lumps, then stir the vinegar into the dough. When it is wetted, put
the cake into a buttered tin or mould, place it in a moderate oven
immediately, and bake it from if to 2\ hours.
Time. — if to 2\ hours. Average Cost, is. 6d.
3360. — COCOANUT CAKE.
Ingredients. — 6 ozs. of butter, \ a lb. of castor sugar, 1 lb. of flour,
f of a lb. of desiccated cocoanut, 4 an oz. of baking-powder, 3 eggs,
milk, essence of lemon.
Method. — Sieve the baking-powder well with the flour on to a sheet
of paper laid on the table. Weigh and add the cocoanut. Put the
butter and sugar into a clean basin, warm slightly, and beat up well
with a large wooden spoon ; beat in the eggs, 1 at a time, and when
all are in add the flavouring, flour and cocoanut ; bring to cake batter
consistency with milk, divide the mixture into 2 or more well-papered
and greased tins as preferred, sprinkle some cocoanut over the top,
and bake in a moderately warm oven.
Time.— 1 to 2 hours. Average Cost, is. 6d. Sufficient for 2 cakes.
3361. — COCOANUT ROCKS.
Ingredients. — 10 ozs. of flour, \ a lb. of butter, 6 ozs. of desiccated
cocoanut 8 ozs. of castor sugar, 4 eggs.
Method, — Beat the sugar and butter together ; add the cocoanut and
1428
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
flour by degrees, then the eggs, still beating the mixture. Drop it in
small spoonfuls on to a baking-tin (buttered), and bake in a quick oven.
Time. — About 8 minutes, to bake the cakes. Average Cost, is qd.
Sufficient for 30 cakes.
3362. — COFFEE CAKE.
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of butter, \ a lb. of brown sugar, f of a lb. of golden
syrup, \ a lb. of currants, a lb. of sultanas, i-J- lbs. of flour, \ an oz. of
baking-powder, 2 eggs, \ an oz. of nutmeg, cloves and cinnamon mixed,
coffee.
Method. — Sieve the baking-powder with the flour into a pan; add
the spices, sugar and butter, rub well together, make a well in the
centre, pour in the syrup, add about of a pint of strong cold coffee,
break in the eggs, and beat well together ; then mix in the other
ingredients with a strong wooden spoon, using a little milk if not moist
enough, mix in the fruit last, and then bake in a long square cake
pan nicely papered.
Time. — 1 to 2 hours. Average Cost, 2s.
3363. — COMMON CAKE. (Suitable for sending to
Children at School.)
Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of flour, 6 ozs. of butter, or clarified dripping,
\ an oz. of caraway seeds, f of an oz. of allspice, 10 ozs. of castor
sugar, 1 lb. of currants, 1% pints of milk, \ an oz. of distillery yeast.
Method. — Rub the butter lightly into the flour ; add all the dry
ingredients, and mix these well together. Make the milk warm, but
not hot ; stir in the yeast, and with this liquid make the whole into a
light dough ; knead it well, and line the cake-tins with strips of white
buttered paper ; this paper should be about 6 inches higher than the
top of the tin. Put in the dough ; stand it in a warm place to rise
for more than 1 hour ; then bake the cakes in a well-heated oven. If
this quantity be divided in 2, the cakes will take from \\ to 2 hours
baking.
Time. — if to i\ hours. Average Cost, is. 6d. Sufficient to make 2
moderate-sized cakes.
3364. — COMPOSITION CAKE.
Ingredients.— 1 lb. of flour, 1 lb. of castor sugar, \ a lb. of butter,
3 eggs, 1 teacupful of cream, \ a teaspoonful of baking-powder, nutmeg
to taste.
Method. — Beat the sugar and butter to a cream, add the eggs, then
the cream, flour and spice. This cake requires well beating. Put into
round papered tins, and bake in a quick oven.
Time. — 1 hour. Average Cost, is. 9d. Sufficient for 2 cakes. Season-
able at any time.
RECIPES FOR BREAD, BISCUITS, AND CAKES 1429
3365. — CORN CAKES (Excellent way to Make).
Ingredients.— \ a lb. of corn meal, f of a lb. of flour, 2 teaspoonfuls
of baking-powder, 1 teaspoonful of salt, 2 eggs, \ a lb. of golden syrup,
milk.
Method. — Rub the baking-powder and salt well into the meal and
flour, then mix into a nice pliable dough with the eggs and the
syrup, using no more milk than is absolutely necessary. Bake on
tin plates in a quick oven. Cut the cakes across like scones, and serve.
Time. — 30 minutes. Average Cost, is. Sufficient for 4 small cakes.
3366. — CORNFLOUR CAKES.
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of cornflour, 4 ozs. of flour, 6 ozs. of butter, 6 ozs.
of sifted sugar, 3 eggs.
Method. — Melt the butter, then add the other ingredients ; beat
for 20 minutes. Lay into patty-pans, and bake in a warm oven.
Time. — \ hour. Average Cost, is. 2d. Sufficient for 2 dozen small
cakes.
3367. — CREAM CAKES.
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of fresh butter, 1 pint of warm water, f of a lb.
of sifted flour, 10 eggs, i- a pint of sweet milk, 4 tablespoonfuls of corn-
flour, 4 ozs. of castor sugar.
Method. — Put the butter into a clean stewpan, add the warm water
and slowly bring it to the boiling point, stirring often. When it boils,
put in the flour, continue stirring, and boil for 5 minutes, then turn it
into a deep dish to cool. Break 8 eggs, and beat them well 1 at a time
into the cool paste, drop the mixture in teaspoonfuls on to the buttered
paper, taking care they do not run into each other; set them on to a
flat baking-sheet. Bake for 15 minutes. Boil the milk after mixing
the cornflour with a little of it, beat up the remaining eggs, and add
them to the cornflour ; then pour the boiling milk on the eggs, put in
the sugar and a little vanilla or lemon flavouring, and about 1 oz. of
fresh butter. Stir the mixture well until it is smooth and thick, then
set it aside to cool. Split the cakes open with a sharp knife, fill up
with cornflour custard, and dredge over with fine sugar.
Time. — 15 minutes to bake, but altogether 1 hour. Average Cost,
2s. 3d. Sufficient for 2 dozen cakes.
3368. — DESSERT CAKES.
Ingredients. — f of a lb. of flour, 6 ozs. of butter, -J- a lb. of sifted
sugar, 3 eggs.
Method. — Clarify the butter and beat the sugar well in ; add the
flour by degrees, then the eggs, still beating. Mix thoroughly, and
bake in small tins for 8 or 10 minutes.
1430
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Time.— 8 to xo minutes, to bake. Average Cost, is. Sufficient for 20 or
30 cakes.
3369. — DOUGHNUTS.
Ingredients. — \ a pint of new milk, \ an oz. of compressed yeast, 1 egg,
2 ozs. of sugar, 2 ozs. of butter, flour.
Method. — Make the milk warm, and dissolve the yeast in it ; stir in
about ]- of a lb. of flour and the sugar, cover over, and stand the mixture
aside in a warm place where it will not be disturbed, and leave it to
rise up and drop. When it drops it is ready, but it must not be
touched until it has dropped. When ready, add the melted butter,
the egg, and a pinch of salt ; beat it well together, and then add
sufficient flour to make a workable paste. Put the paste when made
into a basin, cover over, and stand it aside in a warm place to prove ;
when well proved, turn out on to the board, dry over, and divide up
into 2-oz. pieces, mould up round, then flatten the pieces out slightly
with a rolling-pin, damp round the edges, lay 1 spoonful of raspberry
jam in the centre, and gather the edges into the centre, forming them
up into round balls with the jam in the middle ; pinch them together
firmly and lay them on a clean floured cloth as each one is worked.
Cover over with another cloth when they have all been done, and stand
them aside to prove. When they are light enough, have ready a pot of
boiling lard on the stove, drop the doughnuts into it, cook them for
about 7 minutes on one side and then turn them over and cook them
the reverse way. Take up with a drainer on 3 or 4 thicknesses of clean
kitchen paper, and when the doughnuts have all been cooked roll them
into fine castor sugar, and serve.
Time. — To cook, 15 minutes. Average Cost, 8d.
3370. — DOUGHNUTS WITH BAKING-POWDER.
Ingredients. — ij lbs. of flour, 3 ozs. of sugar, 3 ozs. of butter, \ an oz.
of baking-powder, 2 eggs, milk.
Method. — Sift the baking-powder well with the flour, then rub in the
butter and sugar, make a bay, break in the eggs, and add sufficient
milk to wet it up into a nice pliable paste. Dry it over on the board,
and then roll down in rather a thin sheet, cut out with a small plain
round cutter, lay them separately on the board as they are cut out,
gather the trimmings into a heap without kneading them, roll them
out into a sheet with the rolling-pin, and cut out with the same size
cutter ; when all are cut out, wash them over slightly with a little
cold water, lay a spot of jam upon half of them out of a spoon, and
place the other half on top. Pinch round the edges to prevent the
jam from running out, stand the doughnuts on a floured board for
about 20 minutes, and then cook them in boiling lard as directed in
RECIPES FOR BREAD, BISCUITS, AND CAKES 1431
the previous recipe. When done and well drained, dust over with
powdered sugar, and serve.
Time. — To cook, 15 minutes. Average Cost, iod.
3371. - DROP CAKES.
Ingredients.— \ a lb. of butter, f of a lb. of castor sugar, 1 lb. of flour,
4 eggs, baking-powder, milk.
Method. — Add 2 teaspoonfuls of baking-powder to the flour on the
board, well mix it and run it through a sieve 2 or 3 times. Put the
butter and sugar into a clean basin, and beat it well up into a cream
with the hand, add the eggs 1 at a time, beating well after each addition
of eggs, and when all are well beaten in, add the flour, and moisten
the mixture with milk to batter consistency. Scrape down the sides
with a palette-knife, and with the point of the knife mix in all the
material scraped down. Have some clean white sheets of kitchen
paper cut to the size that will fit the baking-plates or tins, and with a
spoon lay out small cakes all over the sheets of paper, allowing about
i\ inches between each cake or drop, which should be about the size of
half a walnut shell ; then dust lightly over with sugar and bake in a
moderate oven.
Time. — 1 hour. Average Cost, is.6d. Sufficient for 3 or 4 dozen cakes.
3372. — ECONOMICAL CAKE.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of flour, \ of a lb. of castor sugar, \ of a lb. of
butter or lard, \ a lb. of currants, 1 teaspoonful of baking-powder,
3 eggs, \ a pint of milk.
Method. — Beat the butter and sugar to a cream, well beat in the
eggs, then stir all the ingredients together. When the mixture has
been well beaten, stir in the fruit, put the cake in a buttered mould,
and bake it in a moderate oven for 1 \ hours.
Time. — i-J- hours. Average Cost, is. 3d.
3373- — FARMER’S FRUIT CAKES.
Ingredients. — 1 cup of dried sour apples, 1 cup of golden syrup, 1 cup
of sugar, cup of butter, \ a cup of sour milk, 1 teaspoonful of soda,
2 teaspoonfuls of cinnamon, 1 teaspoonful of cloves, 1 egg, 2 cups of
flour.
Method. — Chop the apples fine, and soak them over night ; in the
morning let them simmer for 2 hours with the golden syrup. Prepare
the other ingredients as for any cake, beating well, and adding the
apple and syrup when a little cool but not cold. Bake in small greased
tins in a moderate oven.
Time. — \ to f- hour. Average Cost, iod,
1432
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
3374. — FLANNEL CAKES.
Ingredients. — 1 quart of milk, 1 tablespoonful of butter, 3 eggs, f- of
a lb. of sifted flour, 1 oz. of yeast.
Method. — Melt the butter in the milk, and when lukewarm add the
eggs, the whites and yolks beaten separately, and stir in the flour.
Add the dissolved yeast, beat well, and leave to rise. Then make into
cakes, and bake for 1 5 minutes in a hot oven. This mixture will be very
soft, and require very careful handling. The cakes are nice broken
open while hot and toasted.
Time. — J hour. Average Cost, iod. Sufficient for 1 dozen cakes.
3375. — FRENCH CAKE. (Fr. — Gateau Fran^ais.)
Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of flour, £ of an oz. of yeast, 1 lb. of butter, 6 eggs,
4 of a lb. of best raisins, J of a lb. of currants, £ of a lb. of sugar.
Method. — Take away \ a lb. of the flour, make a hole in the rest,
and put in the yeast, mixed with a little warm water ; work it to a
sponge, and place it in a warm place to rise. When it has risen suffi-
ciently, work the butter and eggs with the remaining flour into it,
and knead it twice with the hands, adding another egg if it is too
stiff. Stone and cut up the raisins, add the currants and sugar, mix
all the ingredients well together with the sponge ; put into a well-
buttered tin mould, and let the whole stand for 1 or 2 hours to rise.
When well risen, bake in a moderate oven for 1 or ij hours.
Time. — ij hours, to bake. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for one
large cake.
3376. — FRUIT CAKE. ( Fr . — Gateau de Fruits.)
Ingredients. — Butter, flour, currants, candied peel and sugar, each
a lb., \ a grated nutmeg, a few chopped almonds, the juice and rind
of 1 lemon, 4 eggs.
Method. — Beat the butter to a cream, add the eggs one by one, and
then the other ingredients, and bake in a paper lined and greased
tin. The oven must not be too hot.
Time. — 1 to 2 hours, to bake. Average Cost, is. iod.
3377* — GATEAU ST. HONORE.
Ingredients. — 6 ozs. of Vienna flour, 3 ozs. of butter, and 2 ozs. of sugar,
1 egg.
Method. — Rub the butter and sugar into the flour, make a bay,
break 1 egg into a cup, beat it up with a fork, put \ of it into the bay,
add moisture and work into a stiff paste, using a little milk if
required. Mould it up round, and then roll it out to about the size
of a pudding plate, set it on to a clean tin, and let it stand for 2
hours, prick it all over with a fork, and then make up the following : —
BISCUITS
RECIPES FOR BREAD, BISCUITS, AND CAKES 1433
\ a pint of water, 3 ozs. of butter, \ of an oz. of sugar, 4 ozs. of flour,
4 eggs, a pinch of salt.
Method. — Put the butter and water into a clean stewpan and set it
over the fire ; mix the sugar and flour together, and when the liquor
boils, turn in the flour, stir it well over the fire until it thickens, and the
whole of it can be lifted out of the pan with a spoon ; then take it off
the fire, let it stand for a few minutes, and beat in the eggs one at a
time with a large wooden spoon. When the whole of the eggs have
been beaten in put the mixture into a savoy bag with a plain tube,
and lay a ring round the piece of paste prepared on the tin — lay the
ring as near the edge as possible, but take care that it does not run
over the edge on to the tin — and lay out the remaining paste in about
12 small buttons on another tin, and bake in a moderate oven. When
done, dredge some sugar over, and run it with a red hot “ salamander.”
Now boil up about ^ of a lb. of loaf sugar to nearly a caramel, put
a skewer into the small buttons, dip them separately into the sugar
syrup, and stick them round upon the ring of paste nearly close to-
gether, place a glace cherry in each one of the cakes, and further
decorate with some nicely cut leaves of angelica. Now pile the centre
up with whipped-cream, sweetened and flavoured as required, set it
on a lace paper on a glass dish or compote dish, and send to table.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, about 2s. Sufficient for 8 or
10 people.
3378. — GENOESE CAKE. ( Fr . — Gateau Genoise.)
Ingredients. — 4 eggs, 4 ozs. of butter, 6 ozs. of flour, £ of a lb. of
castor sugar, apricot jam, chocolate or any other icing.
Method. — Slightly warm the butter in a clean basin until it is easy to
beat with a wooden spoon, then add the sugar and beat to a cream ;
next the eggs one by one, then mix in the flour. Pour the mixture into
a buttered baking-tin, and bake in a quick oven for about 10 minutes.
When cold divide the sheet in two, and sandwich together with apricot
or any other jam. Coat it with icing, and let it stand for a few minutes.
Time. — 15 minutes, to bake the cake. Aveiage Cost, is. 6d.
3379. — GENOESE CAKE. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — A stale sponge cake or loaf, 2 kinds of preserve, the one
rather acid, the other sweet, such as red-currant jelly and apricot jam,
the whites of 4 eggs, \ a lb. of pounded loaf sugar, 1 lemon.
Method. — Cut the cake into rounds, and spread them with the two
preserves in alternate layers, and sandwich the rounds together again.
Make an icing of the sugar as directed in recipe No. 3461, spread it over
the cake, and set for a few minutes to harden in a cool oven.
Time. — 30 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. Sufficient for 10 or 12 small
cakes.
1434
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
3380. — HOLIDAY CAKE.
Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of flour, f of a lb. of castor sugar, f of a lb. of
butter and dripping or lard mixed, 1 lb. of currants, a lb. of stoned
raisins, 4 of a lb. of mixed candied peel, 2 ozs. of baking-powder, 3 eggs,
1 pint of milk.
Method. — Mix the baking-powder with the flour, then rub in the
fat ; have ready the currants, washed, picked, and dried, the raisins
stoned and cut into small pieces (not chopped), and the peel cut into
neat slices. Add these with the sugar to the flour, etc., and mix all
the dry ingredients well together. Whisk the eggs, stir into them the
milk, and with this liquid moisten the cake ; beat it up well, that all
the ingredients may be very thoroughly mixed ; line a cake tin with
buttered paper, put in the cake, and bake it from 2\ to 2f- hours in a
good oven. To ascertain when it is done, plunge a clean skewer into
the middle of it, and if on withdrawing it looks clean and not
sticky, the cake is done. To prevent its burning at the top, a piece
of clean paper may be put over the cake while it is baking, to ensure
it being thoroughly cooked in the middle.
Time. — 2\ to 2 §■ hours. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for one large
cake.
3381. — HONEY CAKE. (Fr.— Gateau de Miel.)
Ingredients. — 4 of a breakfastcupful of sugar, 1 breakfastcupful of
rich sour cream, 2 breakfastcupfuls of flour, 4 a teaspoonful of carbonate
of soda, honey to taste.
Method. — Mix the sugar and cream together ; dredge in the flour,
add as much honey as will flavour the mixture nicely ; stir it well,
that all the ingredients may be thoroughly mixed ; add the carbonate
of soda, and beat the cake well for another 5 minutes. Put it into a
buttered tin, and bake it from to f of an hour, and let it be eaten
warm.
Time. — 4 to hour. Average Cost, 8d. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
3382. — ICED CAKE.
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of flour, 4 a lb. of currants, 4 a lb. of sugar,
4 of an oz. of mace and cloves, 12 sweet almonds, 6 bitter almonds,
4 a lb. of butter, 4 eggs, 1 oz. of mixed peel, 1 teaspoonful of carbonate
of soda.
Method. — Blanch and split the almonds, and mix all the dry ingre-
dients together. Warm the butter in a clean basin, add the sugar,
and beat to a cream with the hand ; add the eggs 1 at a time, beating
well after each addition ; when all are in, add the other ingredients,
well mix, and turn out into a round papered and greased tin. Bake for
about 1 4 hours. When cold cover with white icing and decc rate to taste.
(See No. 3462.)
Time. -14 hours. Average Cost, is. 8d. Sufficient for 1 cake.
RECIPES FOR BREAD, BISCUITS, AND CAKES 1435
3383. — INDIAN MEAL FLAPPERS.
Ingredients. — 1 quart of sifted meal, a handful of wheaten flour, 1
quart of milk, 4 eggs, 1 heaped-up saltspoonful of salt.
Method. — Mix the meal, flour, and salt. Beat the eggs well and add
them to the milk alternately with the meal, a handful at a time. Stir
thoroughly, and bake in small or large round cakes on a hot griddle.
Tims. — 10 minutes. Average Cost, is. Sufficient for 1 dozen cakes.
3384. — JOHNNY CAKE.
Ingredients. — 1 teacupful of flour, 1 teacupful of Indian yellow meal,
1 teacupful of milk, 1 cupful of water, 1 tablespoonful of brown sugar,
1 teaspoonful of baking-powder, a pinch of salt, 2 eggs.
Method. — The milk may be either sour or fresh. Mix the dry and
the wet ingredients in separate bowls, then put them together, mix
well, pour into a buttered tin, and bake for \ an hour or more in a
quick oven.
Time. — \ hour or longer. Average Cost, qd. Sufficient for 1 cake.
3385. — LEMON CAKE. (Gateau de Citron.)
Ingredients. — 8 eggs, 1 tablespoonful of orange-flower water, \ a lb.
of castor sugar, 1 lemon, 1 lb. of flour.
Method. — Break the eggs into a clean basin, add the sugar, and beat
up to a stiff batter with a wire egg whisk. Add the orange-flower
water, the juice and rind of the lemon, continue the beating for 10
minutes, then take out the whisk, clean it off, add the flour (sifted),
and mix it in with a spoon. Butter a cake mould with melted butter,
dust it out with a little flour and sugar mixed, turn in the mixture, tie
a paper round the top to prevent it running over, and bake in a
moderate oven.
Time. — About hours, to bake. Average Cost, is. qd. Sufficient
for 1 medium-sized cake.
3386. — LINCOLN CAKE.
Ingredients. — Take 2 lbs. of flour, \ an oz. of yeast, 1 lb. of butter,
6 eggs, 1 of a lb. of Malaga raisins, J of a lb. of currants, } a lb. of sugar,
4 of an oz. of saffron.
Method. — Dissolve the yeast in ^ a pint of tepid water, put it into a
clean basin, and stir in sufficient of the flour to make a nice soft dough.
Well knead it, and leave it in the basin covered over in a warm place
to prove. When well proved, take the remaining flour, turn it out on
to the board, make a bay in the centre, put in the butter and sugar,
and rub these together till smooth ; then add the eggs and a piece of
fermented dough, and mix all well up together, mixing in the whole of
1436
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
the flour, and adding the saffron liquor which has been previously
infused in a j of a pint of warm water and strained. Well and
thoroughly mix by rubbing it on the board, then add the raisins (stoned
and cut up), and the currants (previously cleaned) ; then turn it into
a large well greased mould, or 2 smaller ones, stand it aside to prove,
and, when well proved, bake in a moderate oven from i\ to 2 hours.
Time. — to 2 hours, to bake. Average Cost, 3s. Sufficient for 1
large cake.
3387. — LUNCHEON CAKE.
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of butter, 1 lb. of flour, J of an oz. of caraway
seeds, \ a lb. of currants, 6 ozs. of moist sugar, 1 oz. of candied peel,
3 eggs, \ a pint of milk, 2 small teaspoonfuls of baking-powder.
Method. — Rub the baking-powder and butter into the flour until it
is quite fine ; add the caraway seeds, currants (which should be
nicely washed, picked and dried), sugar, and candied peel cut into
thin slices ; mix these well together, and moisten with the eggs, which
should be well whisked, and with the milk wet up the other ingredients
into a nice soft cake batter. Butter a tin, pour the cake mixture into
it, and bake it in a moderate oven from f to 1 hour.
Time. — 1 to i-§- hours. Average Cost, is. 6d. Sufficient for 1 cake.
3388. — MADEIRA CAKE.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of butter, 1 \ lbs. of flour, 1 lb. of castor sugar, the
grated rind of 1 lemon, 2 ozs. of candied peel, 5 to 6 eggs.
Method. — Put the butter and sugar into a clean pan, add the grated
rind of 1 lemon, and with the hand beat it up to very light cream ;
add in the eggs 1 at a time, and beat well after each addition of eggs ;
when all are in and the batter is very light and creamy, add the flour,
stir it in lightly with the hand, and when well mixed divide the mixture
equally into 3 or 4 round tins, papered at the bottoms and sides with
buttered white paper ; dust sugar over from a dredger, and lay 2
very thin slices of citron peel on top. Bake in a moderate oven.
They will take from 1 to ij hours to bake.
Time. — 1 to i^- hours. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for 3 or 4
medium-sized cakes.
3389.— MARBLE CAKE.
Ingredients. — White part : 2 teacupfuls of flour, 1^- cupfuls of castor
sugar, \ a cupful of butter, \ a cupful of milk, 4 whites of eggs, \ a tea-
spoonful of cream of tartar, of a teaspoonful of soda. Dark part :
2\ cupfuls of flour, a cupful of butter, 1 cupful of brown sugar, £ a
cupful of treacle, \ a cupful of milk, 3 eggs, \ a teaspoonful of car-
RECIPES FOR BREAD, BISCUITS, AND CAKES 1437
bonate of soda, \ a teaspoonful of cream of tartar, cloves, cinnamon,
mace.
Method. — Prepare and mix each part separately, as follows : — Sift
the cream of tartar and soda well with the flour on the board. Then
cream up the butter and sugar, adding the eggs as described in
previous mixtures ; then mix in the flour. For the dark part the treacle
and spice should be beaten up with the butter and sugar. When both
batters have been well mixed up, have prepared 2 or more square
papered frames or tins, laying the colours in alternately, and when all
the batters have been used up, finish by spreading them out evenly
on top, using the back of a spoon for the purpose. Then put them in
a moderate oven and bake from 1 to 2 hours, according to size. When
done turn out on to a clean wire or tray, and when cold ice over with
a little white water icing, and marble with a feather dipped in
cochineal or liquid carmine.
Time. — 1 to 2 hours, to bake. Average Cost, 2s. Sufficient for 2 or
more cakes.
3390. — NEAPOLITAN CAKES.
(Fr. — Gateaux Napolitaine.)
Ingredients. — J of a lb. of butter, the same quantity of flour, sugar,
and almonds, apricot or any other jam, a few preserved cherries, 2 eggs,
\ a lb. of icing sugar.
Method. — Rub the butter into the flour and add the ground almonds,
mix these with the yolks of the 2 eggs. Roll the paste rather thin, cut
it in rounds with a plain or crinkled cutter, and bake till yellow in a
moderate oven on a buttered tin. When cold spread each round with
jam, and pile one over the other evenly. Mix the icing sugar with a
little hot water, beat it well and ice the cakes, decorating them with
the cherries.
Time. — About 20 minutes, to bake the cakes. Average Cost, is. 3d.
Sufficient for 1 dozen small cakes.
3391. — NICE CAKE.
Ingredients. — J of a lb. of flour, J of a lb. of ground rice, \ a lb. of
castor sugar, 5 eggs, lemon to taste.
Method. — Sieve the ground rice and flour well together on to a sheet
of paper. Break the eggs into a clean bowl, add the sugar, and beat
well with a wire egg-whisk for 20 minutes, then take out the whisk,
clean off the wires, add the flavouring and flour, and mix lightly with
a spoon. Turn the mixture into a buttered tin, and bake in a moderate
oven from 35 to 45 minutes, according to the heat of the oven.
Time. — \ to £ of an hour. Average Cost, 9d. Sufficient for 1 cake.
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1438
3392. — PAVINI CAKE. (Fr, — Gateau Pavini.)
Ingredients. — \ a lb. flour, \ a lb. of ground rice, -J- a lb. of raisins (stoned
and cut into small pieces), 4 of a lb. of currants, \ of a lb. of butter,
2 ozs. of sweet almonds, 4 of a lb. of castor sugar, \ a nutmeg grated,
1 pint of milk, 1 teaspoonful of baking-powder.
Method. — Stone and cut the raisins into small pieces ; wash, pick
and dry the currants ; melt the butter to a cream, but without oiling
it ; blanch and chop the almonds, and grate the nutmeg. When all
these ingredients are thus prepared, mix them well together ; make
the milk warm, stir in the baking-powder, and with this liquid make
the whole into a paste. Butter 2 moulds, rather more than half fill
them with the batter, and bake the cakes in a moderate oven from i\
to 2 hours.
Time. — 1\ to 2 hours. Average Cost, is. 4d. Sufficient for 2 cakes.
3393- — PETITS FOURS.
These may be made of any sweet paste, Genoese, pound or sponge cake,
and allow of an endless variety of decoration, with different icings,
crystallised fruits, candied peel, etc. The simplest way of making
petits fours is to cut Genoese, pound, or sponge cakes, into pretty
fanciful shapes, icing them with different coloured icings, garnishing
them before the icing has set with crystallised fruit, cut in fine
slices, angelica, almonds, preserved cherries, and similar fruits.
Average Cost, 2s. per lb.
3394. — PICCOLOMINI CAKE.
(Fr. — Gateau Piccolomini.)
Ingredients. — 1 cup of butter, 2 £ cups of sugar, 4 eggs, 1 teacup of
milk, 4 cups of flour, \ a teaspoonful of carbonate of soda, 1 teaspoonful
of cream of tartar, rose-water, ground nutmeg or almond extract.
Method. — Sift the carbonate of soda and cream of tartar well with
the flour on to a sheet of paper. Put the butter and sugar into a clean
basin, and beat up to a light cream. Add the eggs 1 at a time, beating
well after each addition, and when all are in, flavour the mixture
with rose-water and ground nutmeg. Then add the flour, wet to cake-
batter consistency with milk, turn into a papered, buttered hoop or
shallow cake tin, and bake in a moderate oven.
Time. — 40 minutes. Average Cost, is. Sufficient for 1 medium-sized
cake.
3395. — PLAIN CAKE.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of flour, \\ teaspoonfuls of Borwick’s baking-
powder, 1 of a lb. of good dripping, 1 teacupful of moist sugar, 3 eggs,
RECIPES FOR BREAD, BISCUITS, AND CAKES 1439
1 breakfast-cupful of milk, f of an oz. of caraway seeds, f of a lb. "of
candied peel cut fine.
Method. — Put the flour and baking-powder into a basin ; stir these
together ; then rub in the dripping, add the sugar, caraway seeds, and
peel ; whisk the eggs with the milk, and beat all together very thor-
oughly until the ingredients are well mixed. Butter a tin, put in the
cake mixture, and bake it from 1 f to 2 hours. Let the dripping be
quite clean before using ; to ensure this, it should be clarified. Beef-
dripping is better than any other for cakes, etc., as mutton-dripping
frequently has a very unpleasant flavour, which would be imparted to
the preparation. The eggs are not necessary.
Time. — 1 f to 2 hours. Average Cost, is. Sufficient for 1 cake.
3396. — PLAIN CAKE FOR CHILDREN.
Ingredients. — 1 quartern of dough, f of a lb. of moist sugar, 1 of a lb.
of butter or good beef-dripping, f of a pint of warm milk, f a teaspoon-
ful grated nutmeg, or f an oz. of caraway seeds.
Method. — If bread is not made at home, procure the dough from the
baker’s, and as soon as it comes in, put it into a basin near the fire ;
cover the basin with a thick cloth, and let the dough remain a little
while to rise. In the meantime beat the butter to a cream, and make
the milk warm ; when the dough has risen, mix with it thoroughly all
the above ingredients, and well rub the mixture to obtain a smooth
soft paste. Butter some cake-tins, half fill them, and stand them in a
warm place to allow the mixture to rise again. When the tins are 3
parts full, put the cakes into a good oven, and bake them from if to 2
hours. A few currants, or sultanas, can be substituted for the caraway
seeds, when the flavour of the latter is disliked.
Time. — if to 2 hours. Average Cost, nd. Sufficient for 6 or 8 small
cakes. Seasonable at any time.
3397. — PLUM CAKE, COMMON.
Ingredients. — 10 ozs. of flour, 6 ozs. of butter, or good dripping, 10 ozs.
of moist sugar, 8 ozs. of currants or raisins, f an oz. of ground allspice,
1 oz. of distillery yeast, if pints of new milk.
Method. — Rub the butter into the flour, add the sugar, currants or
raisins, and allspice ; warm the milk, and dissolve the yeast in it, mix
the whole into a soft dough, knead it well, and put it into 6 buttered
tins. Place them near the fire for 1 hour, or until they are light, then
bake the cakes in a good oven from 1 to if hours. To ascertain when
they are done, plunge a clean skewer in the middle, and if on with-
drawal it comes out clean, the cakes are done.
Time. — 1 to if hours. Average Cost, is. 8d. Sufficient to make 10
small cakes
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1440
3398. — PLUM CAKE.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of flour, J of alb. of butter, \ a lb. of sugar, \ a lb.
of currants, of a lb. of sultanas, 4 ozs. of candied peel, \ a pint of milk,
\ a teaspoonful of carbonate of ammonia, a pinch of carbonate of soda.
Method. — Put the flour into a basin with the sugar, soda, currants,
and sliced candied peel ; beat the butter to a cream, and mix all these
ingredients together with the milk. Stir the ammonia into 2 table-
spoonfuls of milk ; add it to the dough, and beat the whole well until
everything is mixed. Put the batter into a buttered tin, and bake the
cake from 1} to 2 hours.
Time. — 1-|- to 2 hours. Average Cost, is. 3d. Sufficient for 1 medium-
sized cake.
3399. — PLUM CAKE.
Ingredients. — J of a lb. of flour, 6 ozs. of butter, \ a lb. of castor sugar,
6 ozs. of currants, 6 ozs. of raisins, 2 ozs. of candied lemon-peel, 2 ozs.
of sweet almonds, 3 eggs, 1 teaspoonful of baking-powder, milk.
Method. — Sift the flour and baking-powder together, wash, dry, and
pick the currants, cut up the peel, blanch the almonds and put them
in either whole or pounded, as preferred. Beat up the eggs with a little
cold milk, mix them all well together, then pour into a buttered mould.
Bake for about ij hours in a moderate oven.
Time. — hours. Average Cost, is. 8d. Sufficient for 1 medium-
sized cake.
3400. — POTATO CAKE.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of potato flour, -§■ a lb. of butter beaten to a cream,
\ a lb. of castor sugar, 2 eggs, or the whites of 4, 10 drops of essence of
lemon.
Method. — Mix the ingredients, and beat them thoroughly for 10
minutes, then pour into a cake-tin, and bake for 15 minutes in a rather
quick oven.
Time. — \ hour. Average Cost, is. 2d. Sufficient for 1 cake.
3401. — POUND CAKE.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of butter, i|- lbs. of flour, 1 lb. of castor sugar, 1 lb.
of currants, 8 eggs, \ of a lb. of mixed candied peel, 2 ozs. of sweet al-
monds ; and if liked, a little pounded mace.
Method. — Shred the peel very finely, taking equal quantities of
orange, lemon and citron. Blanch the almonds, and chop them
finely. Sieve the flour on to a sheet of paper, and add the peel and
almonds to it. Put the butter into a clean bowl, and beat it up to a
light cream with the hand ; then add the sugar, and give it another
RECIPES FOR BREAD, BISCUITS, AND CAKES 1441
good beating ; add in the eggs one at a time, beating them after each
addition of eggs ; and when all these ingredients are in, add the flour
and carefully mix, using a little milk if necessary to bring the mixture
to proper cake-batter consistency. Turn the preparation into round
tins, lined at the bottoms and sides with white greased paper. Bake
it from i|- to 2 hours, and let the oven be well-heated when the cake
is first put in, otherwise the currants will all sink to the bottom. A
glass of wine is sometimes added to the mixture, but this is scarcely
necessary, as the cake will be found quite rich enough without it.
Time. — 1 \ to 2 hours. Average Cost, 3s. Sufficient. — The above
quantity can be divided in 2 or more cakes as desired.
3402. — QUEEN CAKES. ( Fr . — Gateaux a la Reine.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of flour, \ a lb. of butter, \ a lb. of castor sugar,
3 eggs, 1 teacupful of cream, \ a lb. of currants, 1 teaspoonful of baking-
powder, essence of lemon, or almonds, to taste.
Method. — Sieve the baking-powder well with the flour on to a sheet
of paper. Put the butter, sugar and cream into a clean basin, and
beat up to a light cream. Add the eggs 1 at a time. When all the
eggs are in, add the flour and fruit, and moisten with milk to the con-
sistency of cake-batter. Put it into small buttered tins, and bake the
cakes from a \ to \ an hour. Grated lemon-rind may be substituted
for the lemon and almond flavouring, and will make the cakes equally
nice.
Time. — \ to \ hour. Average Cost, is. qd. Sufficient for 2 or 3 dozen
small cakes.
3403. — RAISIN CAKES.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of butter, 1 lb. of fine flour, 1 lb. of castor sugar,
6 eggs, 1 liqueur-glassful of brandy, 1 teaspoonful of nutmeg, \ a tea-
spoonful of baking-powder, 1 lb. of stoned raisins.
Method. — Beat the butter to a cream, then add the sugar, the brandy
and nutmeg, and well beat. Add the eggs 1 at a time, beating well
after each addition of eggs, and when all are in, add the flour, with the
baking-powder sifted in. Then mix in the stoned and chopped raisins.
Bake in a paper-lined, greased tin for ij hours in a moderate oven.
Time.— ij hours. Average Cost, 3s. Sufficient for 1 medium-sized
cake.
3404.— RICE CAKE.
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of ground rice, \ a lb. of flour, a lb. of castor
sugar, 4 eggs, a few drops of essence of lemon, or the grated rind of \
a lemon, \ a lb. of butter.
3 A
144 3
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Sieve the rice and flour together on to a sheet of paper.
Put the butter into a clean basin, add the yellow rind of the lemon,
grated, and beat to a cream. Add the eggs i at a time, and when all
are in, add the flour, moisten to cake-batter consistency, using a little
milk if necessary. Turn into i or 2 buttered moulds, and bake in a
moderate oven from 1 to 2 hours.
If preferred, the cake may be flavoured with essence of almonds.
Time. — About hours. Average Cost, is. 6d. Sufficient for 2 medium-
sized cakes.
3405. — RICE CAKE. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 6 eggs, \ a lb. of flour, \ of a lb. of ground rice, a lb.
of castor sugar, a few drops of essence of lemon.
Method. — Break the eggs into a clean bowl, add the sugar, and beat
up with a wire egg-whisk for about 20 minutes. Then take out the
whisk and add the flour and ground rice sifted together ; mix it lightly
with the hand, or a wooden spoon, turn into a buttered mould, or
moulds, and bake in a moderate oven for from 25 to 40 minutes, accord-
ing to size.
Time.— 50 minutes. Average Cost, iod.
3406. — ROCK CAKES.
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of butter, 1 lb. of flour, ! a lb. of moist sugar, 2 eggs,
1 teaspoonful of essence of lemon, i-|- teaspoonfuls of baking-powder,
a little milk.
Method. — Rub the butter, flour, baking-powder and sugar well to-
gether (the flour should be dried and sifted) ; mix in the eggs well
beaten, the essence of lemon, and \ a gill of milk. Drop the cake-
mixture upon a baking-tin as roughly as possible, and bake for a of
an hour in a rather quick oven.
Note. — Currants or peel can be added il liked.
Time.— J hour. Average Cost, is. Sufficient for 2 dozen cakes.
3407. — ROCK CAKES.
Ingredients. — 6 eggs, 1 lb. of castor sugar, ij lbs. of flour, \ of a lb.
of currants.
Method. — Break the eggs into a basin, beat them well until very
light, add the sugar, and when this is well mixed with the eggs, dredge
in the flour gradually and add the currants previously cleaned. Mix
all the ingredients well together, and put the dough with a fork on the
tins in small heaps, making them look as rough or rocky as possible.
Bake them in a moderate oven from 20 to 30 minutes ; when they are
done, allow them to get cool, and store them away in a tin canister
in a dry place.
Time. — 20 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, is.
RECIPES FOR BREAD, BISCUITS, AND CAKES 1443
3408. — SAUCER CAKE FOR TEA.
Ingredients. — \ of a lb. of flour, £ of a lb. of best cornflour, \ of a lb.
of castor sugar, £ of a lb. of butter, 2 eggs, 1 oz. of candied orange or
lemon-peel.
Method. — Mix the flour and cornflour together ; add the sugar,
the candied peel cut into thin slices, the butter beaten to a cream, and
the eggs well-whisked. Beat the mixture for 10 minutes, put it into
a buttered cake-tin or mould ; or, if this is not obtainable, a soup-
plate answers the purpose, lined with a piece of buttered paper. Bake
the cake in a moderate oven from f- to 1 hour, and when cold put it
away in a covered canister. It will remain good for some weeks, even
if it be cut into slices.
Time. — £ to 1 hour. Average Cost. is. Sufficient for 1 cake.
3409. — SAVOY CAKE.
Ingredients. — The weight of 4 eggs in castor sugar, the weight of 6 eggs
in flour, a little grated lemon-rind, or essence of almonds, or orange-
flower water.
Method. — Break the 7 eggs, putting the yolks into one basin and the
whites into another. Whisk the former, and mix with them the sugar,
the grated lemon-rind, or any other flavouring to taste ; beat them
well together, and add the whites of the eggs whisked to a froth. Con-
tinue to beat the mixture for a £ of an hour, take out the whisk, sieve
in the flour and mix it in with a wooden spoon. Butter a mould, dust
it out with sugar and flour, pour in the cake mixture, and bake it from
i|- to \\ hours. This is a very nice cake for dessert, and may be iced for
a supper-table, or cut into slices and spread with jam, to convert it
into sandwiches.
Time. — i£ t° Ii hours. Average Cost, is. Sufficient for 1 cake.
3410. — SCOTCH CAKES.
Ingredients. — 3 lbs. of flour, 2 lbs. of butter, i-|- lbs. of brown sugar,
£ an oz. of caraway seed, £ an oz. of cinnamon, £ of a lb. of citron-peel
cut into small pieces.
Method. — Cream the butter and sugar, add the flour and flavouring,
and make up into rather a light paste ; use a little milk if necessary.
Bake in small buttered cake tins.
Time.— 10 to 15 minutes. Average Cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for 5 dozen
small cakes.
3411. — SCOTCH OAT CAKES (RICH).
Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of oatmeal, 6 ozs. of flour, 2 ozs. of sugar, \ a lb.
of butter and lard, \ an oz. of carbonate of soda, £ of an oz. of tartaric
acid, a little salt, milk.
1444
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Weigh the flour and meal on to the board, take the soda,
acid and salt, and rub these ingredients through a fine hair-sieve on to
the flour and meal, then add the sugar and fat and rub together until
smooth ; make a bay or hole in the centre, and work into a smooth
paste with milk, taking care not to have it too dry or tight, or consider-
able trouble will be experienced in rolling out the cakes, as they will be
found very short. Having wet the paste, take small pieces about the
size of an egg, and roll these out thin and round with a small rolling-
pin, dusting the board with a mixture partially of oatmeal and flour.
When rolled down thin enough, take a sharp knife and cut them in
4, place them on clean flat tins, and bake in a warm oven. These cakes
require very careful handling, or they will break all to pieces.
Time. — To bake, 20 to 25 minutes. Average Cost, is. Sufficient
for about 18 small cakes.
3412.— SCOTCH OAT CAKES.
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of double-dressed Scotch oatmeal, an oz. of fat
or butter, 1 pinch of carbonate of soda, sufficient to cover a threepenny
piece.
Method. — Put about \ a pound of meal into 1 pint basin, and have a
teacup, into which put a small piece of butter, or lard, the size of a small
hazel-nut, and a pinch of carbonate of soda ; pour on this about \ a
teacup of hot water, stir until the butter is melted, and soda is dissolved,
then mix quickly with the meal in the basin with the point of a knife,
and when the mixture is thoroughly stirred, turn it out on a paste-board,
and mould it quite compactly, keeping it round and flat, and with the
knuckles spreading it gradually, taking care that it does not crack at
the edges ; strew plenty of dry meal over it to roll it out with the crimp-
ed roller, and every now and then rub the surface with the flat of the
hand to disengage all superfluous meal ; when rolled as thin as a penny-
piece, and fairly round, put the knife in the centre and divide it into 3,
then, having the girdle over the fire, lay the cakes on the hot iron, the
plain side down, and as the cakes get done, move them in succession
from a cool spot to a hotter. By pressing the nail on the surface, if
they are not doughy it is a sign that they are sufficiently baked. With
care the cakes can be baked in a greased frying-pan with a trivet under-
neath. Now move them from over the fire on to the toaster before the
fire, and watch that they dry gradually, for they will soon burn, and
as they are taken from the fire, stand them carefully on edge till they
are quite cold. While this is proceeding over the fire mix more cakes,
and when one is ready to go to the toaster, fill up the vacant place.
The thick cake commonly eaten by the working classes is made by put-
ting a quantity of meal in a wooden bowl or can, adding cold water at
discretion, mixing in a compact mass, and then kneading it into shape
wholly with the knuckles : and proceeding as above described,
RECIPES FOR BREAD, BISCUITS, AND CAKES 1445
Time.— 10 minutes, to bake. Average Cost, 3d. Sufficient to make
6 cakes.
3413. — SCOTCH SHORTBREAD.
Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of flour, \ of a lb. of cornflour, or ground rice, 1 lb.
of butter, \ of a lb. of castor sugar, 1 oz. of sweet almonds, a few strips
of candied orange-peel.
Method. — Beat the butter to a cream, gradually dredge in the flour,
and add the sugar, and sweet almonds, which should be blanched and
cut into small pieces. Work the paste until it is quite smooth, and
divide it into 6 pieces. Put each cake on a separate piece of paper,
roll the paste out square to the thickness of about 1 inch, and pinch
it round the edges. Prick it well with a skewer, and ornament with
1 or 2 strips of candied orange-peel. Put the cakes into a moderately
heated oven, and bake from 25 to 30 minutes.
Time. — 25 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, for this quantity, 2s. Suffi-
cient to make 6 cakes.
3414. — SCRAP CAKES.
Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of flead, or the inside fat of a pig, U- lbs. of flour,
J of a lb. of moist sugar, \ a lb. of currants, 1 oz. of candied lemon-peel,
ground allspice to taste.
Method. — Cut the flead, or leaf as it is more generally called, into
small pieces, put it into a large dish, place it in a quick oven, taking
care that it does not burn, and in a short time it will be reduced to oil
with the small pieces of leaf floating on the surface ; it is of these that
the cake should be made. Gather all the scraps together, put them
into a basin with the flour, and rub them well together. Add the cur-
rants, sugar, the candied peel, cut into thin slices, and the ground all-
spice. When all these ingredients are well mixed, moisten with suffi-
cient cold water to make the whole into a nice paste ■ roll it out thin,
cut it into shapes, and bake the cakes in a quick oven from 15 to 20
minutes. These are very economical and wholesome cakes for children,
and the lard, melted at home, produced from the flead, is generally
better than the purchased article. To prevent the lard from burning,
and to ensure its being of a good colour, it is better to melt it in a jar
placed in a saucepan of boiling water, thus preventing its discolouring.
Time. — 15 to 20 minutes. Average Cost, is. iod., for this quantity.
Sufficient to make 3 or 4 dozen cakes.
3415. — SEED CAKE, VERY GOOD.
Ingredients. — f of a lb. of butter, 6 eggs, f of a lb. of castor sugar,
pounded mace and grated nutmeg to taste, 1 lb. of flour, f of an oz. of
caraway seeds.
Method. — Beat the butter to a cream, add the sugar, mace, nutmeg,
1446
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
and caraway seeds, and beat these ingredients well together. Whisk
the eggs and beat them gradually into the mixture; then mix in the flour,
using a little milk if necessary, to bring it to cake-batter consistency.
Put it into a tin lined with buttered paper, and bake it from 1} to 2
hours in a moderate oven. This cake would be equally nice made with
currants, omitting the caraway seeds.
Time. — i-| to 2 hours. Average Cost, 2s. Sufficient for 1 cake.
3416. — SEED CAKE, COMMON.
Ingredients. — | a quartern of dough, 1 of a lb. of good dripping, 10
ozs. of moist sugar, \ an oz. of caraway seeds, 1 egg.
Method. — If the dough is sent from the baker’s, put it in a basin
covered with a cloth, and set it in a warm place to rise. Then spread
it out over the board, add the fat, egg and sugar, and rub together the
ingredients until they are thoroughly mixed. Put the mixture into a
buttered tin, and bake the cake for rather more than 2 hours.
Time. — Rather more than 2 hours. Average Cost, 9d. Sufficient for
1 large cake.
3417. — SEED CAKES OR SEED BUNS.
Ingredients.— 4 eggs, 4 teacupfuls of sugar, 2 teacupfuls of butter,
x teacupful of milk, 1 tablespoonful of caraway seeds, \ a teaspoonful
of carbonate of soda, | of a lb. of flour.
Method. — Beat the ingredients well together, adding the flour by
degrees, until a paste thick enough to roll out is made. Make into small
cakes, and bake in a quick oven.
Time. — 10 to 15 minutes. Average Cost is. Sufficient for 3 to 3J
dozen small cakes or buns.
3418. — SNOW CAKE.
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of arrowroot, or best cornflour, £ of a lb.
of pulverized sugar, J of a lb. of fresh, or washed salt butter, 1 egg
and the whites of 2, the juice of 1 lemon.
Method. — Beat the butter to a cream ; add the egg, previously well
beaten, then the other ingredients ; if the mixture is not sufficiently
light, add another egg, and beat for a 4 of an hour, until it turns white
and light. Line a flat tin with raised edges with a sheet of buttered
paper, pour in the cake, and put it into the oven. It must be rather
slow, and the cake must not be allowed to brown at all. If the oven
is properly heated, 1 to hours will be found long enough to bake the
cake. Let it cool, then with a clean, sharp knife cut it into small square
pieces, which should be gently removed to a large flat dish to get cool
before putting away. This cake will keep for several weeks.
Jinie, — I to ij hours. Average Cost, is, Sufficient for 1 cake.
RECIPES FOR BREAD, BISCUITS, AND CAKES 1447
3419. — SNOW CAKE. (A genuine American recipe.)
(Another Method.)
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of arrowroot, 10 ozs. of Vienna flour, \ a lb. of
castor sugar, \ a lb. of butter, 4 an oz. of cream of tartar, the whites
of 6 eggs, flavouring to taste, essence of almonds, vanilla, or lemon.
Method. — Beat the butter to a cream, stir in the sugar, and beat the
mixture to a light cream. Whisk the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth,
add them to the other ingredients, and beat well for 20 minutes. Put
in whichever of the above flavourings may be preferred, then add the
flour, arrowroot and cream of tartar, well sifted together, and mix ;
then pour the cake into a buttered mordd or tin, and bake it in a moderate
oven from 1 to 1} hours.
Time. — 1 to i|- hours. Average Cost, with the best Bermuda arrow-
root, 2s. pd. ; with St. Vincent arrowroot, 2s. Sufficient to make a
moderate-sized cake.
3420. — SODA CAKE.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of flour, I of a lb. of butter, \ a lb. of castor sugar,
\ a lb. of currants, 1 egg, a gill of butter-milk, 1 teaspoonful of carbonate
of soda, mace and nutmeg to taste.
Method. — Rub the butter into the flour, add the sugar, currants and
flavouring. Beat the egg well, add it to the dry ingredients and well
mix, leaving a tablespoonful of the milk to dissolve the soda, adding
this just before putting into the oven, and well mix it through the batter.
Bake in buttered moulds. Prick with a knitting needle or small
skewer; if this comes out clean the cakes are sufficiently done. A nice
lunch or tea cake.
Time. — 20 minutes or 4 an hour. Average Cost, is. Sufficient for 2
medium-sized ca es.
3421. — SODA CAKE. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 4 of a lb. of butter, 1 lb. of flour, \ a lb. of currants, \ a
lb. of moist sugar, 1 teacupful of butter-milk, 3 eggs, i teaspoonful of
carbonate of soda.
Method. — Rub the butter into the flour with the soda, add the currants
and sugar, and mix these ingredients well together. Whisk the eggs
well, stir them to the flour, etc., with the milk, in which the
soda is dissolved, and beat the whole up together with wooden
spoon or spatula. Divide the dough into 2 pieces, put them
into buttered moulds, or cake-tins, and bake in a moderate
oven for nearly 1 hour. The mixture must be extremely well-beaten
up, and not allowed to stand after the soda has been added to it, but
must immediately be placed in the oven. Great care must also be
1448
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
taken that the cakes are quite done through, which may be ascertained
by thrusting a skewer into the middle of them ; if it looks bright when
withdrawn they are done. If the tops acquire too much colour before
the inside is sufficiently baked, cover them with a piece of clean paper,
to prevent them from burning.
Time. — i hour. Average Cost, is. 2d. Sufficient to make 2 small cakes.
Seasonable at any time.
3422. — SODA CAKE FOR TEA.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of flour, 6 ozs. of butter, •§■ a pint of butter-milk,
2 small teaspoonfuls of carbonate of soda, a few caraway seeds, or
about 6 ozs. of currants and raisins, \ a lb. of brown sugar, a little can-
died peel, 1 or 2 eggs.
Method. — Warm the butter sufficiently to melt it, also warm the milk,
and mix the carbonate of soda very smoothly in it. Put all the dry
ingredients together first, then add the liquids ; bake at once, in tins
well greased, in a rather slow oven, for 1 hour or more. If the butter
is melted in the tins and just runs round them, it answers every purpose.
Time. — 1 hour. Average Cost, is. 3d. Sufficient for 2 small cakes.
Seasonable at any time.
3423. — SPONGE CAKE.
Ingredients. — The weight of 8 eggs in castor sugar, the weight of 5
eggs in flour, the rind of 1 lemon, 1 tablespoonful of brandy.
Method. — Put the eggs into one side of the scale, and take the weight
of 8 in castor sugar, and the weight of 5 in good dry flour. Separate
the yolks from the whites of the eggs ; beat the former, put them into
a saucepan with the sugar, and let them remain over the fire until milk-
warm, keeping them well stirred. Then put them into a basin, add
the grated lemon-rind, mixed with the brandy, and beat these ingre-
dients well together. Whisk the whites of the eggs to a very stiff froth,
stir them to the other ingredients, and beat the cake well for a J of an
hour. Then take out the whisk, sieve in the flour, and mix it lightly
with a wooden spoon. Put it into a buttered mould, dusted out with
a little finely-sifted sugar and flour, and bake the cake in a quick oven
for i-|- hours. Care must be taken that it is put into the oven immedi-
ately, or it will not be light. The flavouring of this cake may be varied
by adding a few drops of essence of almonds, instead of the grated
lemon-rind.
Time. — i-J- hours. Average Cost, is. 3d. Sufficient for 1 cake.
3424. — SPONGE CAKE. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — Take 6 fresh eggs, the weight of 5 of them in castor
sugar, and of 3 in very fine dry flour, the rind of 1 lemon.
Method. — Put the sugar into a shallow, flat-bottomed dish, and break
i45o
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
3427. — STRAWBERRY SHORTCAKE.
Ingredients. — 1 cup of sour or butter-milk, of a teaspoonful of soda,
4 of a teaspoonful of salt, 2 tablespoonfuls of butter, 1 cup of flour.
Method. — Mix the soda, butter and salt into the flour, and wet it up
into a nice, free paste with the milk. Divide it into four, roll it up
round under the hand, and flatten out -with a rolling-pin ; place it on
to a suitable-sized tin (baking-tin), dock or prick it all over with a fork
or skewer, and bake in a quick oven. While baking, take \\ pints of
strawberries and mash them fine. When the cakes are baked, allow
them to get cold, spread them over with butter, dredge on a layer of
sugar, then strawberries, then sugar, and place another cake on top,
the buttered side downwards ; dredge the top with sugar, and serve.
Time. — 10 to 15 minutes. Average Cost, is. Sufficient for 2 cakes.
Seasonable in June and July.
3428. — TEA-CAKES.
Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of flour, \ a teaspoonful of salt, J- of a lb. of butter
or lard, 1 egg, \ an oz. of distillery yeast, Warm milk.
Method.^Put the flour, which should be perfectly dry, into a basin,
mix with it the salt, and rub in the butter or lard ; make a bay, pour in
the yeast, dissolve in a little warm milk, add the egg, and then sufficient
warm milk to make the whole into a smooth paste, and knead it well.
Let it rise near the fire, and when well risen form it into cakes • place
them on tins, let them rise again before placing them in the oven, and
bake from a 4 to \ an hour in a moderate oven. These cakes are also
very nice with the addition of a few currants and a little sugar to the
other ingredients, which should be put in after the paste is moistened.
The cakes should be buttered and eaten hot as soon as baked ; but,
when stale, they are very nice split and toasted ; or, if dipped in milk,
or even water, and covered with a basin in the oven till hot, they will
be almost equal to new.
Time. — \ to 4 hour. Average Cost, iod. Sufficient to make 8 tea-
cakes.
3429. — TEA-CAKES, SMALL.
Ingredients. — 2 teacupfuls of flour, 1 teacupful of ground rice, i-| of
moist sugar, 2 ozs. of butter, 2 ozs. of lard or dripping, 2 eggs, lemon
to taste.
Method. — Melt the butter and lard, beat well, and add the mixture
to the flour and rice ; then put in the eggs and sugar, well beating them
together with a wooden spoon, and using a little milk if necessary to
give the proper consistency, then bake in small cakes on a tin in a quick
oven.
Time. — 15 minutes. Average Cost, qd. Sufficient for 12 or 14 small
tea-cakes.
RECIPES FOR BREAD, BISCUITS, AND CAKES 1451
3430. — TEA-CAKES, TO TOAST.
Method. — Cut each tea-cake into 3 or 4 slices, according to its thick-
ness ; toast them on both sides before a nice clear fire, and as each
slice is done, spread it with butter on both sides. When a cake is
toasted, pile the slices one on the top of the other, cut them into quarters,
put them on a very hot plate, and send the cakes immediately to table.
As they are wanted, send them in hot, 1 or 2 at a time, for they spoil if
allowed to stand, unless kept in a muffin-plate over a basin of boiling
water.
3431. — TENNIS CAKE.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of flour, f of a lb. of butter, J of a lb. of castor sugar,
\ a lb. of chopped raisins, 2 ozs. of almonds, 3 ozs. of candied-peel, the
grated rind and juice of 1 lemon, 8 eggs, preserved cherries, angelica,
icing.
Method. — Sieve the flour on to a piece of paper. Stone the raisins and
cut them up. Blanch the almonds, dry them in front of the fire, or in
the oven, and chop them up into neat pieces. Put the sugar and butter
into a clean basin, and beat these ingredients up to a light cream, add
the flavouring, and then beat in the eggs 1 at a time. When all the
eggs have been beaten in, add the flour and fruit, and well mix, using a
little milk if necessary to bring it to cake-batter consistency. Line
a cake-tin with greased white paper, put in the cake, and bake it in a
well-heated oven for if hours. Ice the cake with white icing, and be-
fore it is set, ornament it with cherries and angelica, the latter cut as
leaves ; any other icing may be used, and such garnishing as fancy
may suggest.
Time. — i-f to if hours. Average Cost, 3s. Sufficient for 1 good-sized
cake. Suitable for a tennis afternoon tea.
Note. — An iced cake gives scope for a great many pretty ornamentations,
and the accompanying plate shows some easily executed patterns, and
gives directions for piping.
3432. -TENNIS CAKE. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — if lbs. of flour, 1 lb. of raw sugar, 14 ozs. of butter, 1 lb.
of currants, f of a lb. of sultanas, f of a lb. of mixed candied-peel, f of
an oz. of mixed spice, essence of lemon, 8 eggs.
Method. — Sieve the flour on to a piece of paper, add the currants,
sultanas and peel (shred finely). Put the butter and sugar into a clean
bowl, add the flavouring, and beat up to a light cream, beat in the eggs
1 at a time, beating well after each addition, and when all are in, add the
flour and fruit, and mix. Prepare 2 or 3 square tins by papering them
with greased white paper, and divide the mixture equally between them ;
flatten down the top and cover with a sheet of white paper, then bake
1452
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
ia a moderate oven from i to i£ hours. When done, turn out on to a
sieve, and leave the cake to get cold. Then strip off all the paper, and
make up the almond paste (No. 3459), dividing it between the 3 cakes,
keeping the paste perfectly level on top and flush with the sides. Then
ice over the top of the almond-icing with some white water icing, and
while that is wet sprinkle thickly with blanched and chopped pistachio
kernels, then with some cake-icing pipe a couple of tennis-racquets
crossed upon the centre, and also pipe a border round the edge with
the same icing, to complete the cake.
Time. — To bake, from 1 to i-J- hours. Average Cost, 4s. 6d. Sufficient
for a party of 30 or more persons.
3433. — THANKSGIVING CAKE.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of butter, 9 eggs, 1 lb. of castor sugar, ij lbs. of
flour, a nutmeg, 1 teaspoonful of mixed cinnamon and mace, ground,
2 ozs. of candied lemon-peel, 2 ozs. of blanched and chopped almonds,
1-^ lbs. of dried currants.
Method. — Beat the butter and sugar to a cream, add the eggs well
beaten, mix in the flour, and add the other ingredients. Beat all thor-
oughly together, prepare a round tin by lining with paper, turn in the
batter, flatten it out with the hand, and bake for 2 hours in a moderate
oven.
Time. — 2 hours. Average Cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for 1 cake.
Seasonable on July 4th.
3434. — TIP TOP CAKES.
Ingredients. — Take 2 lbs. of flour, 1 lb. of butter, 1 lb. of castor sugar,
6 eggs, 2 teacupfuls of raisins chopped, or currants, 1 wineglass of
sherry, clove, cinnamon, nutmeg.
Method. — Beat the butter and sugar to a cream ; add the eggs 1 at
a time, beating well after each addition of eggs, and when all are in,
add the flour, fruit and spice, and lastly the wine. Bake on tin sheets
in small cakes dropped from a tablespoon. This recipe makes a large
quantity, which will keep fresh for a long time.
Time. — 10 minutes, to bake. Average Cost, 3s. Sufficient for about
5 \ lbs. of cake.
3435-— A NICE USEFUL CAKE.
Ingredients. — \ of a lb. of butter, 6 ozs. of currants, J of a lb. of sugar,
1 lb. of dried flour, 2 teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, 3 eggs, 1 teacupful
of milk, 2 ozs. of sweet almonds, 1 oz. of candied peel.
Method. — Beat the butter and sugar to a cream ; wash, pick and
dry the currants, whisk the eggs, blanch and chop the almonds, and cut
the peel into neat slices. When all these are ready, mix the dry in-
RECIPES FOR BREAD, BISCUITS, AND CAKES 1453
greclients together, then add the butter, milk and eggs, and beat the
mixture well for a few minutes. Put the cake into a buttered mould
or tin lined with paper, and bake it for rather more than 1 \ hours in
a moderate oven. The currants and candied peel may be omitted,
and a little lemon or almond flavouring substituted for them ; made
in this manner, the cake will be found very good.
Time. — Rather more than 1 \ hours. Average Cost, is. 4d.
3436. — VANILLA CAKE.
Ingredients. — 4 of a lb. of butter, \ a lb. of castor sugar, 3 eggs, \ a
teacupful of new milk, f of a lb. of dry flour, j teaspoonful of baking-
powder, essence of vanilla.
Method. — Beat the butter to a cream, add the sugar and beaten egg-
yolks, beat the mixture for some minutes, then add the whites. Put
the baking-powder in the flour, add it, and beat well, adding a few drops
of essence of vanilla, and using the milk to bring it to proper consis-
tency. Finely-cut candied peel may be added, or substituted for the
vanilla, if preferred. Put the cake into a buttered tin, and bake for 1
hour.
Time. — 1 hour. Average Cost, 9d. Sufficient for 1 cake.
3437. — VICTORIA SANDWICHES.
Ingredients. — 6 ozs. of flour, 4 ozs. of castor sugar, 2 ozs. of butter,
3 eggs, 1 teaspoonful of baking-powder, a little milk, jam, salt.
Method. — Stir the sugar and yolks of eggs together until thick and
creamy, then add the butter melted. Pass the flour, baking-powder
and a good pinch of salt through a sieve, stir it lightly into the rest
of the ingredients, and add milk by degrees until the mixture drops
readily from the spoon. Now whisk the whites of eggs stiffly, stir them
in as lightly as possible, and pour the preparation into a well-buttered
Yorkshire pudding-tin. Bake in a moderately hot oven for about
20 minutes, let it cool, split in halves, spread thickly with jam, replace
the parts, and press lightly together. Cut into finger-shaped pieces,
arrange them in groups of 3, letting the layers cross each other, sprinkle
liberally with castor sugar, and serve.
Time. — From 14 to 1^ hours, altogether. Average Cost, 9d. Sufficient
for 1 large dish.
3438. — WAFFLES OR WAFERS.
Ingredients. — 1 quart milk, 6 eggs, 4 of a lb. of butter, 2 ozs. of distillery
compressed yeast, salt, flour.
Method. — Beat the eggs, and melt the butter, then dissolve the yeast
in a little of the milk, mix all together, then add in sufficient flour to
1454
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
make a nice, smooth, thin batter. Set this to rise, and bake in waffle-
irons, which may be obtained at an ironmonger’s.
Time. — io to 15 minutes. Average Cost, is. 3d. Sufficient for about 3
dozen wafers or waffles.
3439. — WEBSTER CAKE.
Ingredients. — \ a cup of butter, \ a cup of sugar, 2 eggs, 3 cups of flour,
\ a cup of milk, \ a cup of currants, nutmeg, 2 teaspoonfuls of baking-
powder.
Method. — Mix and beat the above ingredients till thoroughly blended,
then put into a buttered mould, and bake for \ an hour in a moderate
oven.
Time. — \ hour. Average Cost, 8d. Sufficient for 1 cake.
3440. — WEDDING CAKE, VERY GOOD.
Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of butter, 2 lbs of castor sugar, \ a gill of caramel,
z\ lbs. of flour, 18 eggs, 3 lbs. of currants, 3 lbs. of sultanas, ij lbs. of
mixed peel, \ a lb. of blanched sweet almonds, the grated rind of
2 lemons, \ a small nutmeg, 1 oz. of mixed spice, and \ a pint of brandy.
Method. — After cleaning the fruit and grating the nutmeg, cream
the butter and sugar together, and beat well till very light and smooth.
Add a tcaspoonful of salt, and work in the eggs 1 at a time. Work
the flour in gradually, and then the remainder of the ingredients, but
only beat in a little at a time. See that the whole is thoroughly
mixed. Have ready a large cake tin, line it with brown jfaper, and
allow at least 3 rounds of paper for the bottom ; then put in the
mixture, and bake in a moderately cool oven for 5 hours. When
done allow it to stand for 1 or more days, then cover with almond
icing, and coat with royal and transparent icing. Lastly pipe the
cake with royal icing according to taste. ( See No. 3463.)
Time.- — - 6 hours. Sufficient for a moderate-sized cake. Average Cost,
is. 6d. per lb.
3441. — WEDDING CAKE. (Another Method.)
See Bride or Christening Cake, No. 3354.
3442.— YEAST CAKE.
Ingredients. — 1 \ lbs. of flour, \ a pint of milk, 4 lb. of butter, 3 ozs. of
distillery yeast, 3 eggs, f- of a lb. of currants, \ a lb. of white moist sugar,
2 ozs. of candied peel.
Method. — Put the milk and butter into a saucepan and shake it round
RECIPES FOR BREAD, BISCUITS, AND CAKES 1455
over the fire until the butter is melted, but do not allow the milk to
become very hot. Put the flour and sugar into a basin, stir it to the
milk and butter, the yeast dissolved in a little cold milk, and the eggs,
which should be well beaten, and form the whole into a smooth dough.
Let it stand in a warm place, covered with a cloth, to rise, and when
sufficiently risen add the currants, and candied peel cut into thin slices.
When all the ingredients are thoroughly mixed, line 2 moderate-sized
cake-tins with greased paper, which should be put 6 inches higher than
the tin ; pour in the mixture, let it stand to rise again for another -4
hour, and then bake the cakes in a brisk oven for about 14 hours. If
the tops of them become too brown, cover them with paper until they
are done through. A few drops of essence of lemon, or a little grated
nutmeg, may be added if this flavour is liked.
Time. — From i|- to 14 hours. Average Cost, is. 6d. Sufficient
make 2 moderate-sized cakes.
Ingredients. — 3 eggs, 4 a pint of cream, 1 lb. of butter, 4 a lb. of castor
sugar, 24 ozs. of ground ginger, 2 lbs. of flour, a little salt.
Method. — Whisk the eggs thoroughly, add the cream, and beat these
together. Put the mixture into a saucepan, stirring till warm ; add
the butter, sugar and ginger, carefully stirring over a very moderate
fire. When the butter has melted, stir in the flour, adding salt, and
make into a paste (the flour must be fine). Roll out the paste and cut
it out with a plain round paste cutter on to buttered flat tins, and
bake in a moderate oven.
Time. — £ hour. Average Cost, 2s. iod. Sufficient for 3 to 4 dozen
small cakes.
Muffins, Crumpets, Rolls and
Ingredients. — 1 quart of water, 2 ozs. of yeast, \ of a lb. of potatoes,
4 an oz. of salt, flour.
Method. — Wash, peel and boil the potatoes; rub through a colander,
add the water (just warm enough to bear the hand in it with-
out discomfort) ; then dissolve the yeast and salt in it, and stir in
sufficient flour to make a moist paste. Beat it well in a deep bowl,
and then clear off the paste from the hands ; cover over with a clean
3443.— YORKSHIRE GINGER CAKE.
3444.— MUFFINS.
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1456
cloth, and leave it to rise in a warm place. When it has well risen,
and is light and spongy, turn it out on the table, dredge over with
flour, and then divide it off into pieces about 3 ozs. in weight, roll
them up into round shapes, and set them on a wooden tray, well
dusted with flour, to prove. When light enough, see that the hot plate
is hot, and then carefully transfer the muffins from the tray, one at
a time, using a thin tin slice for the purpose, taking particular care
not to knock out the proof, or the muffins will be spoilt. When they
have been properly cooked on one side, turn over with the slice and
cook the other side. When the muffins are done brush off the flour,
and lay them on a clean cloth or sieve to cool.
To toast them, divide the edge of the muffin all round, by pulling it
open to the depth of about 1 inch with the fingers. Put it on a toasting
fork, and hold it before a clear fire till one side is nicely browned, but
not burnt ; turn, and toast it on the other. Do not toast them too
quickly, otherwise the middle of the muffin will not be warmed through.
When done, divide them by pulling them open ; butter them slightly
on both sides, put them together again, and cut them into halves.
When sufficient are toasted and buttered, pile them on a very hot
dish, and send them very quickly to table.
Time. — From 25 to 30 minutes to bake them. Average Cost, id. each.
3445.— CHESTER MUFFINS.
Ingredients. — 4 quarts of flour, 2 quarts of milk, 1 teacupful of sugar,
1 teacupful of butter, 1 teacupful of yeast, 4 eggs, a little salt.
Method. — Mix the butter and sugar together ; add the eggs, salt,
milk, flour and yeast (dissolved) ; let it rise all night. Make up into
shapes of even size. Bake for 20 minutes.
Time. — 20 minutes to bake. Average Cost, 2d. each.
3446.— CRUMPETS.
Ingredients. — 1 quart of water, 2 ozs. of yeast, \ of a lb. of potatoes,
-i- an oz. of salt, flour.
Method. — Proceed exactly the same as directed for muffins, but stir
in only half the quantity of flour used for them, so that the mixture is
more of a batter than sponge. Cover over, and leave for \ an hour.
At the end of that time take a large wooden spoon and well beat up
the batter, leave in the spoon, cover over, and leave for another 1 hour.
Then give the batter another good beat up. This process must be
repeated 3 times with the intervals. When completed, see that the
hot plate is quite hot, lay out some crumpet rings rubbed over inside
with a little clean lard on a baking tin, and pour in sufficient of the
batter to make the crumpets. When cooked on one side, turn over
RECIPES FOR BREAD, BISCUITS, AND CAKES 1457
with a palette knife, and when done take off on to a clean cloth to
cool. Muffins and crumpets should always be served on separate
dishes, and both toasted and served as quickly as possible.
Time. — 20 minutes to cook. Average Cost, 4d. each.
3447. — EXCELLENT ROLLS. (Fr.— Petits Pains.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of flour, 1 oz. of butter or lard, \ an oz. of yeast,
1 pint of water, a little salt.
Method. — The process for making rolls is exactly the same as
directed for bread, but the quantity being smaller, it requires more
yeast, and wants nursing and keeping warm. When the dough is
ready, turn it out on the board and knead it well over, then let it lie
for a few minutes to recover itself, divide into small pieces, mould them
up round, and set them on a clean flat tin that will fit the oven. Cover
them over with a damp clean cloth, let them stand in a warm place to
prove ; when nice and light uncover, brush over with an egg beaten up
in a cup, taking care not to knock out any of the proof, and then bake
in a moderately heated oven for about 25 minutes.
If preferred, milk can be used instead of water. Almost all fer-
mented dough will make a very satisfactory roll, but of course the
dough is not always available. There is nothing, however, to prevent
these rolls being made for breakfast, or hot tea bread upon baking
days. It is quite optional whether fat is used in them or not ; the
principal advantage of the fat is that the rolls will be of a more even
texture, and the crust will eat short and crisp instead of being tough.
Time. — 2 hours. Average Cost, qd. Sufficient for 12 rolls.
3448. — HOT ROLLS. (Fr. — Petits Pains.)
Ingredients. — These, although very unwholesome and indigestible,
are nevertheless a great favourite, and are eaten by many persons. As
soon as the rolls come from the baker’s they should be put into the
oven, which, in the early part of the morning, is sure not to be very
hot ; and the rolls must not be buttered until wanted. When they
are quite hot, divide them lengthwise into 3, put some thin flakes of
good butter between the slices, press the rolls together, and place
them in the oven for 1 or 2 minutes, but not longer, or the butter will
oil. Take them out of the oven, spread the butter equally over them,
divide the rolls in half, put them on to a very clean hot dish, and send
them instantly to table.
Time. — 10 minutes. Average Cost, id. each.
3449. — NICE ROLLS. (Fr. — Petits Pains.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of flour, 2 ozs. of butter, 4 ozs. of powdered lump
sugar, 2 eggs, 1 teaspoonful of baking-powder, and a pinch of salt.
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1458
Method. — Mix all these ingredients well together, and work into a stiff
dough with a little milk. Roll it out £ of an inch thick, and cut into
rolls, throw them into a pan of boiling water on the fire, and directly
they rise to the top, which will be in a minute or so, if the water is
really boiling, take them out and put them into a pan of cold water for
1 or 2 hours, if not quite ready to bake them. Then bake the rolls for
20 minutes in a quick oven, a light brown.
Time. — 20 minutes. Average Cost, yd. Sufficient for 20 rolls.
3450*— DRY TOAST j TO MAKE. (Fr.— Pain Grille.)
Method. — To make dry toast properly, a great deal of attention is
required ; much more, indeed, than people generally suppose. Never
use new bread for making any kind of toast, as it is moist and tough,
and, in addition, is very extravagant. Procure a loaf of household
bread about 2 days old ; cut off as many slices as may be required,
not quite a £ of an inch in thickness ; trim off the crusts and ragged
edges, put the bread on a toasting fork, and hold it before a very clear
fire. Toast it carefully until the bread is nicely coloured ; then
turn it and toast the other side, but do not hold it so close to the fire
that it blackens. Dry todst should be made more gradually than
buttered toast, as its best feature is its crispness, and this can-
not be attained unless the process is slow, and the bread is allowed
gradually to colour. Toast should never be made long before it is
wanted, as it soon becomes tough ilnless placed on the fender in front
of the fire. Directly each piece is ready, it should be put into a rack
or stood upon its edges and sent quickly to table.
3451.— HOT BUTTERED TOAST, TO MAKE.
(Fr. — Pain Roti au Beurre.)
Method. — A loaf of household bread about 2 days old answers for
making toast better than cottage bread, the latter not being a good
shape and too crusty for the purpose. Cut as many nice even slices
as may be required, rather more than a £ of an inch in thickness, and
toast them before a very bright fire, without allowing the bread to
blacken, which spoils both the appearance and flavour of toast. When
both sides are nicely coloured, put the toast on a hot plate ; divide some
good butter into small pieces, place these on the toast, set this before
the fire, and when the butter is just beginning to melt, spread it lightly
over the toast. Trim off the crust and ragged edges, divide each round
into 4 pieces, and send the toast quickly to table. Some persons cut
the pieces of toast across from corner to corner, thus making the pieces
of a three-cornered shape. Soyer recommends that each slice should
be cut into pieces as soon as it is buttered, and when all are ready, that
they should be piled lightly on the dish they are intended to be served
RECIPES FOR BREAD, BISCUITS, AND CAKES 1459
on. He says that by cutting through 3 or 4 slices at a time, all the
butter is squeezed out of the upper ones, while the bottom one is
swimming in fat liquid. It is highly essential to use good butter for
making this dish.
Gingerbread and Rusks
3452. — GINGERBREAD, ANDREW’S. (Fr.— Pain de
Gingembre.)
Ingredients. — 1\- lbs. of flour, -J- of a lb. of sugar, 6 ozs. of butter, 4
eggs, 1 tablespoonful of ginger, 6 ozs. of golden syrup.
Method. — Beat the butter, sugar and golden syrup to a cream, and
beat in the eggs one at a time : add the flour, mixed with the ginger,
till the mixture is thick enough to roll out. Roll into thin sheets, cut
out with a plain round cutter, and bake on flat baking tins.
Time. — To bake, 20 to 25 minutes. Average Cost, is. 4d. Sufficient
for about 4 dozen cakes.
3453. — GINGERBREAD HONEYCOMB.
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of flour, of a lb. of the coarsest brown sugar,
\ a lb. of treacle, \ of a lb. of butter, 1 dessertspoonful of allspice,
2 tablespoonfuls of ground ginger, the peel of f a lemon grated, and the
whole of the juice.
Method. — Mix all these ingredients together, forming a paste
sufficiently thin to spread upon baking sheets. Beat it well, butter
the tins, and spread the paste very thinly over them ; bake it in a
rather slow oven, and watch it until it is done ; withdraw the tins,
cut the gingerbread in squares with a knife to the usual size of wafer
biscuits, about 4 inches square, and roll each piece round the fingers
as it is raised from the tin.
Time. — \ an hour. Average Cost, iod. Sufficient for 4 dozen squares.
3454. — GINGERBREAD, THICK.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of treacle, of a lb. of butter, J of a lb. of coarse
brown sugar, lbs. of flour, 1 oz. of ginger, an oz. of ground allspice,
1 teaspoonlul of carbonate of soda, {- of a pint of warm water, 3 eggs.
Method. — Put the flour into a basin, with the sugar, ginger, and
allspice ; mix these together ; warm the butter, and add it with the
treacle to the other ingredients.* Stir well ; make the water just warm,
dissolve the carbonate of soda in it, and mix the whole into a nice smooth
dough with the eggs, which should be previously well whisked ; pour
1460
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
the mixture into a buttered tin, and bake it from |- to 1 hour, or longer
should the gingerbread be very thick. Just before it is done, brush
the top over with the yolk of an egg beaten up with a little milk, and
put it back in the oven to finish baking.
Time. — J to 1 hour. Average Cost, is. 4d.
3455. — GINGERBREAD, WHITE.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of flour, \ a lb. of butter, ■£ a lb. of castor sugar,
the rind of 1 lemon, 1 oz. of ground ginger, 1 nutmeg grated, -J- of a
teaspoonful of carbonate of ammonia, 1 gill of milk.
Method. — Rub the butter into the flour, add the sugar and minced
lemon-rind, ginger and nutmeg. Mix these ingredients well together,
make the milk just warm, stir in the ammonia, which should be in
fine powder, and work the whole into a nice smooth paste. Roll it
out with the rolling-pin, cut it into cakes, place these on to clean
greased baking tins, and bake in a moderate oven from 15 to 20
minutes.
Time. — 15 to 20 minutes. Average Cost, is. 3d.
3456. — RUSKS. (Suffolk Recipe.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of flour, 2 ozs of butter, J of a pint of milk, 2
ozs. of loaf sugar, 3 eggs, \ an oz. of distiller’s yeast.
Method. — Put the milk and butter into a saucepan, and keep stirring
it round with a wooden spoon until the latter is melted. Put the flour
into a basin with the sugar, mix these well together, and pour the beaten
eggs into the centre. Add the yeast dissolved in a little tepid water to the
milk and butter, and with this liquid work the flour into a smooth dough.
Lay a cloth over the basin, and leave the dough to rise by the side
of the fire ; then knead it and divide it into 12 pieces, mould up round,
set on to a clean greased plate ; prove well ; then place them in a
brisk oven and bake for about 20 minutes. Take the rusks out, break
them into halves, and then set them in the oven to get crisp on the
other side. When cold, they should be put into tin canisters to get dry.
If the rusks are intended for the cheese course, the sifted sugar
must be omitted.
Time. — 20 minutes, to bake the rusks; 5 minutes to render them
crisp after being divided. Average Cost, 9d. Sufficient to make 2 dozen
rusks.
3457. -RUSKS.
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of butter, 2 ozs. of castor sugar, 1 tablespoonful
of brewer’s yeast, 2 lbs. of flour, 4 eggs, 1 quart of milk.
Method. — Mix the yeast with the sugar and 1 teacupful of warm milk ;
pour it into the centre of the flour in a deep bowl and let it rise for 1
PIPING OR FANCY CAKE ICING
Make an ordinary grocer'5 paper bag, place one of the pipmg urniels at the bottom pour
the prepared sugar into the bag, and tear the paper off the point ot it. Hold the bag m the right
hand and with the fingers ot the left squeeze the sugar through the funnel. The piping tubes
have ’teeth, and patterns of piping vary according to the “ outlet. ’
41
, NN
RECIPES FOR BREAD, BISCUITS, AND CAKES 1461
hour in a warm place. The sponge should then be sufficiently light.
Mix with it and the rest of the flour the remaining milk, the eggs, and
a little salt, beating the whole well with a wooden spoon ; then put it
into a buttered tin, set it to rise for another hour, bake in a moderate
oven, and, when cold, cut the cake into thin slices and dry them in a
quick oven, having previously sprinkled them with pounded sugar.
These rusks will be found a delicious substitute for toast for an invalid,
and are appetising and nourishing.
Time. — 1 hour. Average Cost, is. 6d.
3458. — ITALIAN RUSKS.
Ingredients.— A stale savoy or sponge cake may be converted into
very good rusks, in the following manner. Cut the cake into slices,
divide each slice in two ; put them on a baking-sheet in a slow oven,
and when they are of a nice brown and quite hard the rusks are done.
They should be kept in a closed tin canister in a dry place, to preserve
their crispness.
Pannicled Millet. — This cereal has the smallest seeds of any of the corn plants, being a true
grass ; but the number of seeds contained in each ear makes up for their diminutive size. It grows
in sandy soils that will not sustain many other kinds of grain, and forms the chief sustenance of the
population in the arid districts of Arabia, Syria, Nubia, and parts of India. Millet is not cultivated
in England, being principally confined to the East. The nations who make use of it grind it in the
primitive manner between two stones, and make it into a form of diet which cannot properly be
called bread, but is rather a kind of soft, thin cake, half-baked.
Icing
3459. — ALMOND ICING FOR CAKES.
Ingredients. — -To 1 lb. of castor sugar allow |- of a lb. of ground
sweet almonds, 2 or 3 eggs, a little rose or orange-flower water.
Method. — Weigh the castor sugar and ground almonds into a clean
basin, and mix them well together ; make a hole in the centre, break
in the 2 eggs, add a little rosewater, and wet up into a firm paste, using
another egg if necessary. Turn the mixture out of the pan on to the
board, dusting it over with sugar to prevent it from sticking, then roll
it out with a rolling pin to the size of the cake, place it on top and press
smooth with the hand. This quantity of icing would be sufficient for
a cake weighing from 2 to 3 lbs.
Time. — f of an hour. Average Cost, is. per lb.
3460. — ICING FOR MARBLE CAKE.
Ingredients. — 1 teacupful of icing sugar, a little warm water.
Method. — Put some icing sugar into a clean basin, taking sufficient
to ice the cakes, which of course will always depend upon the thickness
put upon them, and pour upon the sugar sufficient boiling water to
1462
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
mix it up into rather a thick cream, beating it up well with a wooden
spoon, adding the water gradually to the sugar until the proper con-
sistency is obtained, then use as previously directed.
This icing will dry rather quickly, with a good gloss. It can be
flavoured with any kind of essence, and coloured with vegetable colours
as may be required.
Time. — \ an hour. Average Cost, icing sugar, 6d. per lb. Sufficient
for 1 cake.
3461. — SUGAR ICING FOR CAKES.
Ingredients. — To every lb. of loaf sugar allow the whites of 4 eggs
and 1 oz. of fine starch.
Method. — Beat the eggs to a stiff froth, and gradually sift in the
sugar, which should be reduced to the finest possible powder, and
gradually add the starch, also finely powdered. Beat the mixture well
until the starch is smooth ; then with a spoon or broad knife lay the
icing equally over the cakes. These should then be placed in a very
cool oven and tire icing allowed to dry and harden, but not to colour.
The icing may be coloured with strawberry or currant juice, or with
prepared cochineal. If it be put on the cakes as soon as they are
withdrawn from the oven, the icing will become firm and hard by the
time the cakes are cold. On very rich cakes, such as wedding, christen-
ing cakes, etc., a layer of almond icing (No. 3458) is usually spread over
the top, and over that the white icing as described. All iced cakes
should be kept in a very dry place.
Average Cost, is. per lb.
3462. — TO ICE A CAKE.
Ingredients.— | of a lb. of icing sugar, the whites of 2 eggs, orange-
flower water.
Method. — Beat these ingredients as in preceding recipe, and while the
cake is still warm, pour and smooth the icing evenly over it ; then dry
in a moderate heat to harden, but not to colour the icing.
Average Cost. — Icing sugar, 6d. per lb.
3463. — TO ICE A WEDDING CAKE.
Ingredients. — i|- lbs. of confectioner’s icing sugar, the whites of 6 eggs,
the juice of 1 lemon.
Method. — Icing sugar can now be obtained from almost every grocery
store in the kingdom, or failing that, a pastrycook would supply the
quantity required. Having procured the sugar, take a very clean
basin and spoon, turn in the sugar, and carefully break in the whites
of the eggs ; add a small pinch of blue, and then proceed to beat up
the icing. When well beaten and smooth, add the strained juice of
RECIPES FOR BREAD, BISCUITS AND CAKES 1463
1 lemon, then beat it up thoroughly until it will stand up in the pan.
Now take the cake and set it on an inverted plate, or if you have it, a
regular turn-table used by confectioners for the purpose. Take up
sufficient icing to cover the top with a spoon, and lay it upon the centre
of the cake. Now take a large pliable palette knife and spread the
icing level on top. Then take up small portions of the icing with the
point of the palette knife, spread it smoothly round the side, and when
the cake is completely enveloped, stand it aside in a warm place to
dry. During the time the cake is drying and as soon as it is hard
enough, a thin sheet of paper should be lightly laid over to prevent the
dust from spoiling the colour of the cake.
Average Cost.— Icing sugar, 6d. per lb.
3464.— TO ICE A WEDDING CAKE.
(Another Method.)
Ingredients. — Whites of 3 eggs, 1 lb. of icing sugar, lemon or vanilla
flavouring.
Method. — Grind and sift the sugar, and add it to the well-beaten
whites of eggs and the flavouring. Beat until the icing mixture is firm
and stiff, then proceed as in preceding recipe.
Average Cost. — Icing sugar, 4d. to 6d. per lb.
Ingredients. — 1 \ ozs. of hops, 4 quarts of water, 1} lbs. of bruised or
ground malt, J of a lb. of flour, a pint of liquid yeast.
Method. — Put the hops into a boiler, add the water, put on the lid,
and set them over the fire to boil for about \ an hour, or until all tile
hops have sunk to the bottom. Then strain the liquor into a clean
wooden bucket, squeeze out the hops and throw them away. Let the
resultant liquor stand for 5 or 10 minutes, or until the face can be seen
reflected in it, then turn in the malt, stir up well with a clean spoon,
cover over, and let it stand until lukewarm, or about 70° Fahr. Then
put in \ a pint of yeast and the f of a lb. of flour, stir it well up with the
hand, cover over with a cloth, and let it remain in a warm corner undis-
turbed for at least 8 hours. At the end of that time give it a good stir
up, and strain away the grains, squeeze them dry, and put the whole
of the liquor into bottles ; after stirring it well up, tie over with string,
and keep it in a cool cellar. \ a pint of this yeast will be sufficient for
about 20 lbs. of flour. When required for use, it is usual to first set
what is termed a ferment, as follows : — first wash, clean, and then boil
about 2 lbs. of potatoes, without salt ; when cooked strain off and turn
3465.— YEAST, TO MAKE.
1464
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
them into a clean wooden bucket. Take a rolling-pin and pound the
potatoes down with it ; add about a lb. of flour, and mix it well into
the scalding hot potatoes with the rolling-pin ; add 1 quart of water,
and stir all the ingredients well up together, and when it has cooled
down to 750 Fahr., shake well, and add % a pint of the previously made
yeast. Stir well in with the hand, breaking up the potatoes, and then
cover over with a clean cloth, and let it stand the same as the yeast,
in a warm place to work or ferment. In about 3 hours it will have
come up and dropped, and it is necessary, to ensure good bread, that
it should drop. Prepare the flour in a large pan, or wooden trough ;
make a hole in the centre of the flour, if the pan is used, and if a trough,
at one end, and strain in the ferment or “ comp.,” add about 3 ozs. of
salt, or more if liked, and sufficient water to wet the 20 lbs. of flour into
dough, knead it well, and leave it as dry as possible ; cover over with a
cloth, and leave it to prove in a warm place for about 3 hours, then
give it another good kneading over with flour, cover, and prove for
another hour. Then turn out to the board, divide into suitable-sized
pieces, mould up into loaves, and when nicely proved bake in a moderate
oven.
3466. — YEAST, TO MAKE. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 2 ozs. of hops, 6 quarts of water, 1 lb. of ground malt,
\ a lb. of brown sugar, 1 lb. of flour, \ a pint of yeast.
Method. — Proceed exactly in the same manner as directed in the pre-
vious recipe, but place the sugar and malt in the bottom of the tub,
and strain the scalding-hot liquor from the hops upon it ; then cover
over, and when cooled down to 70° Fahr., stir in the yeast and flour,
and leave it to work as before directed. It can be made into bread in
exactly the same way as described, and will make most excellent bread ;
but during the process particular care must be taken to exclude all
draughts, and all the utensils used must be scrupulously clean.
FANCY CAKES
68
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS
ON BEVERAGES
CHAPTER XL VIII
Beverages may be broadly divided into four classes : ( i ) Water and
milk ; (2) Beverages of a simple character, generally infusions or
decoctions ; (3) Beverages consisting of mineral waters drawn from
natural springs, or water containing a considerable quantity of carbonic
acid gas ; (4) Beverages containing alcohol.
Water. — To whichever class our beverages belong, water is the basis
of them all. Even our solid food contains a large proportion of water ;
and nothing is of more importance to the housekeeper than to obtain
an ample supply of sufficiently pure water. We say “ sufficiently
pure,” for absolutely pure water, consisting only of 2 parts of hydrogen
to 1 of oxygen, does not exist in nature ; and when it is obtained by
the distiller’s art, it is flat and distasteful to those who have not accus-
tomed themselves to its use. Water, as we get it, is never pure ; the
important point is its freedom from impurities dangerous to health.
Dissolved air and gases make it bright and sparkling; they are driven
off by boiling, and hence the insipid taste and dull appearance of boiled
water.
From whatever source water is obtained, it once existed in the
form of rain. In the country it may pass through the air to the ground
in a pure state, but in manufacturing towns considerable impurities
are added to it in its passage. Whatever its condition as it falls upon
the surface of the earth, it is rapidly changed in its passage through
it. Some rocks, like granite, are insoluble, some, as for example
chalk, are readily soluble, especially in water containing carbonic acid
gas, which rain washes down out of the air. So, while one kind of
water may contain only \ a grain of mineral matter in a gallon, another
has many grains in the gallon. We call the latter a “ hard ” water,
and object to it for cooking purposes for several reasons. It tends to
make the meat and vegetables cooked in it hard ; it wastes soap ; it
deposits “ fur ” on saucepans and kettles. The “ fur ” is the mineral
matter once dissolved in the water, now thrown down in the saucepan :
( 1 ) because the water has boiled away and gone off in steam, leaving
behind it the mineral that could not be vapourized ; (2) because
1465
1466
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
carbonate of lime is dissolved only in water that contains carbonic
acid gas, and the gas is driven off as soon as the water boils, and long
before it has boiled away. It is upon this last reason that the softening
of water by boiling depends. The harshness of water is also caused
by sulphates. In the latter case boiling does not soften the water.
Organic impurities, by which is meant the animal and vegetable
matter often present in water, are highly dangerous. Sewage con-
tamination may exist in palatable sparkling water. This danger is
increasing owing to the more and more prevailing custom of diluting
sewage with water. The dangers and wastefulness of this system of
drainage, especially when applied in country districts near the sources
of our great water supplies, are clearly shown in the writings of those
who have recently devoted considerable attention to this all-important
subject.
Cisterns in which water is stored should be carefully cleansed at
frequent intervals. Water brought on to premises in a pure condition
may be contaminated by neglecting this precaution. Cisterns should
also be provided with close-fitting lids ; this prevents small animals
and much dust from falling into the water.
To Purify Water. — Water that is unfit to drink is not made in any
way less harmful by the addition of spirits, wine, or any flavouring
matter. It may be rendered harmless by boiling, which is the only
practicable household means of purifying water. Most of the decoc-
tions and infusions are useful in this respect, because the water of
which they are made must be boiled, the flavouring matter afterwards
being added to conceal the insipidity. Boiled water can be aerated
by pouring it from one jug to another, if only a small quantity has to
be dealt with.
Filters should not be resorted to instead of boiling as a means of
purifying water. Many simple forms of filters may be usefully em-
ployed as a mechanical means of separating suspended matter, but
few, if any, remove or destroy impurities in perfect solution. Spongy
iron, carbon and sand are valuable filtering agents, but one of the best
mediums is porcelain, the only objection to filters made of this sub-
stance being the slow passage of the water through them.
Tea. — The most popular non-alcoholic beverage in this country is tea,
now considered almost a necessary of life. Previous to the middle of
the seventeenth century it was not used in England. Pepys says in his
Diary: “September 25th, 1661. — I sent for a cup of tea (a China
drink), of which I had never drunk before.” Four years later it was
so rare a commodity in England that the English East India Company
bought 2 lbs. 2 ozs. of it as a present for his Majesty. In 1666 it was
sold in London for 60 shillings a pound. From that date the con-
sumption has gone on increasing from 5,000 lbs. to 215,000,000 lbs.,
an annual consumption of about 6 lbs. per head of the population of
Great Britain.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON BEVERAGES 1467
The Tea Plant. — The cultivation of the plant requires great care. It
is raised chiefly on the sides of hills ; and, in order to increase the
quantity and improve the quality of the leaves, the shrub is pruned,
so as not to exceed the height of from 2 to 3 feet, much in the same
manner as the vine is treated in France. They pluck the leaves, one by
one selecting them according to the kind of tea required ; and, not-
withstanding the tediousness of the operation, each labourer is able to
gather from 4 to 15 lbs. a day. When the trees attain to 6 or 7
years of age, the produce becomes so inferior that they are removed
to make room for a fresh succession, or they are cut down to allow of
numerous young shoots. Teas of the finest flavour consist of the
youngest leaves ; and as these are gathered at four different periods
of the year, the younger the leaves the higher flavour the tea and the
scarcer, and consequently the dearer the article.
Indian and Ceylon Teas. — Much Indian and Ceylon tea is now brought
to this country, and is, as a rule, more highly flavoured than the
Chinese, which it has displaced to so great a degree that now only
about 10 per cent, of the tea consumed in this country comes from
China, the remaining 90 per cent, being imported chiefly from Assam
and Ceylon. The best tea is comparatively high priced, but not
necessarily dear, as some tea is heavy and some light, so that a tea-
spoonful does not bear the same ratio to every pound, nor produce
the same strength of infusion. “ Strong, brisk, family tea ” is
generally warranted to produce the greatest quantity of the blackest
liquid from a given number of spoonfuls, but the connoisseur does not
need to be told that the best tea generally produces a pale-coloured
infusion, and the depth of colour is not an invariable sign of strength.
Orange, mandarin, imperial pekoe are used sparingly in this country,
generally to mix with other qualities. Caravan tea comes overland
to Russia, where it is sold at a high price, on the supposition that
the sea voyage destroys the flavour. Some is brought to this country.
Twankay, Hyson and Gunpowder are green teas ; their use in England,
has, however, now practically ceased. Tea, when chemically analysed, is
found to contain woody fibre, extractives, colouring matters, and
mineral ash. A more important constituent is the tannin, or tannic
acid, to which it owes its bitter taste, particularly noticeable when
the tea has stood for a long time, or has been boiled. It is to the tannin
that its decided and often baneful effects upon the digestive organs
are ascribed, effects that are most noticeable in those persons who have
the habit of drinking tea that has stood or “ drawn ” for a length of
time.
The constituent theine is now found to be identical with caffeine in
coffee, theobromine in cocoa, and with the vegetable alkaloid found
in mate, the tea of Paraguay. It must be considered as something
more than coincidence that men under widely different circumstances
of life, and in widely removed countries, should have brought into
1468
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
universal use beverages of identical effect, obtained from plants of
entirely different species. Tea cannot be regarded as an article of
food, for the nourishment it contains is that of the milk and sugar
mixed with it, and no more. Theine acts directly on the nervous
system, and it is for the sake of this action as a mild stimulant that
tea is habitually consumed.
Chinese Tea, — The various names by which Chinese teas are sold in
the British market are corruptions of Chinese words. There are about
a dozen different kinds ; but the principal are Bohea, Congou and
Souchong, and signify respectively inferior, middling, and superior.
Teas are often perfumed and flavoured with the leaves of different
kinds of plants grown on purpose. Different tea-farms in China pro-
duce teas of various qualities, raised by skilful cultivation on various
soils.
Chinese tea has frequently been adulterated in this country by the
admixture of the dried leaves of certain plants. The leaves of the
sloe, white thorn, ash, elder, and some others have been employed
for this purpose, such as the leaves of the speedwell, wild germander,
black currant, syringa, purple-spiked willow-herb, sweetbriar, and
cherry tree. Some of these are harmless ; others are to a certain
degree poisonous, as, for example, the leaves of all thc^varictics of the
plum and cherry tribe, to which the sloe belongs.
Coffee. — It appears that coffee was first introduced into England in
1652 by Daniel Edwards, a merchant, whose servant, Pasqua, a Greek,
understood the art of roasting and preparing it. This servant, under
the patronage of Edwards, established the first coffee-house in London,
in George Yard, Lombard Street. Coffee was then sold at 4 or 5
guineas a pound, and a duty was soon afterwards laid upon it of qd. a
gallon when made into a beverage. In the course of two centuries,
however, this berry, unknown originally as an article of food, except
to some savage tribes on the confines of Abyssinia, has made its way
through the whole of the civilized world. Mohammedans of all ranks
drink coffee twice a day ; it is in universal request in France, Germany,
and the Continent generally, but the demand for it throughout the
British Isles is daily decreasing ; the consumption of coffee within the
last forty years steadily declined to less than one-half. The approxi-
mate annual consumption of coffee per head of the population is about
13 ozs., as against 6 lbs. of tea per head.
Various Kinds of Coffee. — The Arabian is considered the best. It is
grown chiefly in the districts of Aden and Mocha ; whence the name
of our Mocha coffee. Mocha coffee has a smaller and rounder bean
than any other, and a more agreeable smell and taste. Very little,
however, of the genuine Mocha coffee reaches this country. The next
in reputation in quality is the Java and Ceylon coffee, and then the
coffees of Bourbon and Martinique, and that of Berbice, a district of
the colony of British Guiana. The Jamaica and St. Domingo coffees
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON BEVERAGES 1469
are less esteemed. The largest proportion of coffee consumed In
England comes from Brazil, and is frequently sold under another
name.
The Roasting of Coffee in the best manner requires great nicety, and
much of the qualities of the beverage depends upon the operation.
The roasting of coffee for the dealers in London and Paris has now
become a separate branch of business, and some of the roasters perform
the operation on a great scale, with considerable skill. Roasted coffee
loses from 20 to 30 per cent, by sufficient roasting, and the powder
suffers much by exposure to the air ; but while raw, it not only does
not lose its flavour for a year or two, but improves by keeping. If a
cup of the best coffee be placed upon the table boiling hot, it will fill
the room with its fragrance ; but the coffee, when warmed again after
being cold, will be found to have lost most of its flavour.
A considerable change takes place in the arrangement of the con-
stituents of coffee by the application of heat in roasting it. Inde-
pendently of one of the objects of roasting, namely, that of destroying
its toughness and rendering it easily ground, its tannin and other
principles are rendered partly soluble in water ; and it is to the tannin
that the brown colour of the decoction of coffee is owing. An aromatic
flavour is likewise developed during the process of roasting, which is
not perceived in the raw berry, and which is not produced in the
greatest perfection until the heat has arrived at a certain degree of
temperature ; but if the heat be increased beyond this, the flavour is
again dissipated, and little remains but a bitter and astringent matter,
with carbon.
To have Coffee in Perfection it should be roasted and ground just before
it is used, and more should not be ground at a time than is wanted
for immediate use, or if it be necessary to grind more, it should be kept
closed from the air. Coffee readily imbibes exhalations from other
substances, and thus often acquires a bad flavour ; brown sugar
placed near it will communicate a disagreeable aroma. It is stated
that the coffee in the West Indies has often been injured by being
laid in rooms near the sugar works, or where rum is distilled ; and the
same effect has been produced by bringing over coffee in the same
ships as rum and sugar. Dr. Moseley mentions that a few bags of
pepper, on board a ship from India spoiled a whole cargo of coffee.
With respect to the quantity of coffee used in making the decoction,
much depends on the taste of the consumer. The greatest and most
common fault in English coffee is the too small quantity of the in-
gredient. Count Rumford says that to make good coffee for drinking
after dinner, a pound of good Mocha coffee, which, when roasted and
ground, weighs only 13 oz., serves to make 56 full cups, or a little less
than a quarter of an ounce to a coffee-cup of moderate size.
The use of chicory with coffee was originally a Dutch practice. The
admixture was long kept a secret by the Dutch dealers, and only
147°
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
became known in other countries in the beginning of last century.
For France alone the consumption now reaches 6,000,000 kilo-
grams.
Cocoa. — The consumption of cocoa is yearly increasing in this country.
It is prepared from the seeds of the Theobroma Cacao, a tree grown
in South America, Asia, and Africa. Chocolate was introduced into
Europe by the Spaniards, whose national beverage it still is, and it
reached England during the latter half of the seventeenth century.
Columbus brought it to Europe in 1520. Cocoa possesses to some
extent the stimulating properties of tea and coffee, but it differs from
them in that it contains also a considerable amount of fat and albu-
minous matter. It is, as its name implies, food as well as drink.
Moreover, we drink not merely an infusion of cocoa, but the cocoa
itself. The first step is to roast the nut and remove the husk.
The kernel, roughly ground, and usually with some of the fat re-
moved, is sold as cocoa-nibs. Prepared cocoa is made by grinding the
kernel to powder, removing some of the fat, and adding a certain
proportion of starchy matter and sugar. To some of the cheaper
cocoas the ground husk is added by way of adulteration. All these
preparations are sweet, and thicken when mixed with boiling water
and milk. The pure cocoa extracts and essences consist only of ground
cocoa nibs with some of the fat removed ; they have a distinctly
bitter flavour, and they do not thicken with boiling. Some few harm-
ful substances are occasionally added as adulterants. The best pre-
pared cocoas are wholesome and nourishing, and contain only cocoa,
starch, and sugar. Chocolate is prepared by grinding the finer sorts
of cocoa beans over warm rollers, with a suitable addition of sugar
and vanilla or other flavouring. Much skill is employed in its pre-
paration, and the best qualities are sold at a high price. It is used
as a beverage, but more often in this country as a luxury or a food.
It is very nourishing and sustaining, and is often carried by pedestrians
and mountaineers.
Mate. — The tea of Paraguay, prepared from the Brazilian holly
(Ilex Paraguayensis), is sold in this country, and has some few drinkers.
The leaf is dried and pulverized, and the infusion is prepared in a
dried gourd or calabash, out of which it is sucked through a straw or
bonibilla.
Coca. — The dried leaf of the Erythroxylon Coca is consumed in
Bolivia, Peru, and the adjoining countries, where the inhabitants
chew it as well as drink the infusion. In this country the leaves are
chewed by pedestrians and cyclists as preventives of fatigue, or as
restoratives after exertion. Used in the same way as Chinese tea, it
has a pleasant flavour, and it does not appear to have the same ill
effects upon digestion, though there is no evidence to show what the
effect of its prolonged use would be. Coca is used in surgery to deaden
pain and as a medicine to soothe the nerves and induce sleep.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON BEVERAGES 1471
These substitutes are in no wise imitations of tea and coffee, but are
consumed for their own merits. Other substitutes are of the nature
of adulteration, and contain no theine nor analogous alkaloids. Much
of the prepared coffee drunk in England is merely an infusion of burnt
rye, beans and chicory, with coffee to flavour, and its power as a stimu-
lant is that possessed by any hot liquid with accompanying nourish-
ment in the shape of milk or sugar, a power that is very often forgotten
or overlooked.
Wines. — The wines of France are more highly esteemed than those
of any other country, and of these, champagne takes the lead.
Sparkling wine was first made in the neighbourhood of Epernay, and
the methods employed then were practically the same as those of to-
day. Both red and white grapes are grown in the Marne. The red
gives a dryer wine, the white a softer one ; and the two are generally
mixed together, so as to make a satisfactory average. Great care has
to be exercised in the gathering of the red grapes, and much swiftness
used in pressing them, so that none of the colouring matter contained
in the skin be communicated to the juice. In hot years the grapes
are so ripe that they easily burst when they are gathered, and during
the pressing some of the pigments of colour from the skin communicate
that light pink hue which distinguishes vintages of that year ; but
on the other hand, hot seasons usually give an exceptionally good
wine. Immediately after pressing, the juice is stored in casks and
directly undergoes the first stage of fermentation, after which it is
racked so as to be freed from the heavier lees. The area that can
be planted as vineyards in the champagne district is rather limited,
and as the demand has gone on increasing at a very rapid rate, prices
have been forced up, and other districts of France have tried their
hand at making sparkling wine. Thus we have now sparkling Bur-
gundy, sparkling Chablis, sparkling Saumur, all excellent wines for the
prices they command. The name of claret is practically given to all
red wine coming from France, with the exception of Burgundy and
Roussillon, which form small classes apart. The best clarets are those
grown in the Gironde, but there are many other departments which
furnish claret to Bordeaux, to Paris, and to foreign parts.
The wines of Germany are generally dearer than those of France,
owing chiefly to the large proportion of bad seasons in the Rheingan.
The best are the superior Hocks and Moselles, still and sparkling,
known to consumers as Johannisberger, Steinberger, Marcobriinner,
Hockheimer, Niersteiner, etc.
Storage of Wine. — Wine of every description should be stored in a
cool, dry cellar. This is particularly necessary in the case of sparkling
wines that have to be stored for a great length of time, for a damp
atmosphere is apt to destroy the wire and strings which secure the
corks.
Service of Wine. — Formerly it was considered necessary that a different
1472
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
kind of wine should accompany each course, and they were served in
the following order : —
Chablis or Sauterne with hors d’ceuvres ; Sherry or Marsala with
soup ; Hock or Sauterne with fish ; Claret or Burgundy with entrees ;
Champagne with roast and entremets ; Port, Claret or Madeira with
the dessert. Now the number of wines introduced at one meal is con-
siderably reduced. Sometimes a glass of good sherry or mineral waters
with whisky is served with the soup, after which champagne is served
until the dessert, when port and old claret take its place. Frequently
one, or, at the most, two kinds of wine are served throughout the meal,
and these are either claret or Burgundy and champagne, or champagne
alone. The following table gives the correct temperatures at which
various wines should be served : —
Champagne . . . . -35° deg. Fah.
Sherry . . . . . . 40 „ ,,
Marsala . . . . . . 40 ,, „
Chablis and other wines of this class . 45 ,, ,,
Sauterne and other wines of this class . 50 ,, ,,
Port 55 >> ,,
Madeira and claret . . . . 65 ,, ,,
Burgundy . . . . . . 70 ,, ,,
Ice should never be put into wine, but this does not of course
apply to claret cup and similar mixtures which are dealt with here-
after. Champagne and similar wines should, of course, be served cold,
but the temperature must be lowered in bottle. This may be done most
expeditiously by surrounding the bottles with crushed ice, and allowing
the whole to remain. covered with a wet flannel for about an hour before
being served. An agreeable fresh flavour may be given to all Rhine
wine by cooling them slightly. Claret and Burgundy, on the contrary,
should be drunk milk-warm ; while port, if exposed to a low tempera-
ture, will acquire a harsh, thin, acid taste, which temporarily deprives
it of all its characteristic qualities. The easiest method of raising
the temperature of these wines is to place them near the fire or in a
warm room for several hours ; or it may be more speedily accomplished
by surrounding the bottles with hot water.
Old wines that have been bottled for any length of time should be care-
fully decanted, for they nearly always have a crust or sediment which,
if disturbed, may spoil the flavour of the wine. Decanting baskets
are useful means of preventing this. Each bottle is transferred from the
bin to a separate basket, lying therein in nearly the same position as
that in which it was found in the bin, but with the neck a little higher.
Wineglasses. — It is usual to have various shapes of wineglasses for
different wines. There is however one form which suits all wines, which
is of the goblet or half globe shape. It is essential that the glass
should be as thin as possible. Glasses running four or five to the
reputed quart bottle are the best for size.
RECIPES FOR BEVERAGES
CHAPTER XLIX
Tea, Coffee, Cocoa, Home-made Wines, Liqueurs,
Cups, Summer and Winter Drinks, and
American Drinks.
Tea, Coffee, etc.
3467. — ALMOND MILK.
Ingredients. — 2 ozs. of Jordan almonds, \ an oz. of bitter almonds,
2 ozs. of castor sugar, 1 tablespoonful of orange- flower water, 1 pint
of cold water.
Method. — Blanch the almonds, and pound them with the sugar and
orange-flower water, adding a few drops of cold water occasionally,
to prevent it getting oily. When quite smooth, turn the prepara-
tion into a basin, stir in the remainder of the water, allow it to remain
covered for 2 hours, then strain, keep on ice or in a cool place until
required, and serve diluted with an equal quantity of cold water.
3468. — CHOCOLATE, TO MAKE.
Ingredients. Plain chocolate. To \ an oz. allow a pint of water
and \ a pint of milk.
Method. — Make the milk and water hot, break the chocolate into
small pieces, add it and stir until quite dissolved. Bring to boiling
point, then strain, and serve with sugar.
Chocolate and Cocoa. — Both these preparations are made from the seeds, or beans, of the cocoa-
tree ; it grows in the West Indies and South America. The Spanish and the proper name is cacao, not
cocoa, as it is generally spelt. From this mistake, the tree from which the beverage is procured has
often been confounded with the palm that produces the edible cocoa-nuts, which are the produce
of the cocoa-tree (Cocos nucifera), whereas the tree from which chocolate is procured is very different,
the Theobroma cacao. The cocoa-tree was cultivated by the aboriginal inhabitants of South America,
particularly in Mexico, where, according to Humboldt, the cultivation was encouraged by Montezuma.
It was transplanted thence into other dependencies of the Spanish monarchy in 1520; and it was
so highly esteemed by Linnaeus as to receive from him the name now conferred upon it, of
“ Theobroma,” a term derived from the Greek, and signifying “ food for gods.” Chocolate has always
been a favourite beverage among the Spaniards and Creoles, and was considered as a great luxury
here when introduced, after the discovery of America, but the high duties laid upon it confined it
almost entirely to the wealthier classes. Before it was subjected to duty, Mr. Bryan Edwards stated
that cocoa plantations were numerous in Jamaica, but that the duty caused their almost entire ruin.
The removal of this duty has increased the cultivation.
1474 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
3469. - COCOA, TO PREPARE.
Ingredients. — To 1 J- teaspoonfuls of prepared cocoa, allow \ of a pint
of milk, \ of a pint of water.
Method. — Mix the cocoa smoothly with a little cold water, boil the
remainder of the water and the milk, and pour these on to the blended
cocoa, stirring well meanwhile. Rock cocoa should be broken into
small pieces, and simmered gently for a few minutes in the milk and
water.
3470. — COCOA HUSKS
Ingredients. — 1 cupful of husks, 3 cupfuls of cold water.
Method. — Simmer the husks very gently in the water for about
3 hours, then strain. When cold, skim off any fat there maj^ be and
re-heat when required.
3471. — COCOA HUSKS (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 1 cupful of cocoa husks, 4 cupfuls of water.
Method. — Soak the husks in the water for 12 hours, keeping the vessel
closely covered ; at the end of this time turn both husks and water into
a stewpan, and cook gently for about 4 hours. When cold remove any
fat there may be on the surface, and re-heat before serving.
3472. — COFFEE, TO ROAST. (A French Recipe.)
It is an acknowledged fact that French coffee is decidedly superior
to that made in England, and as the roasting of the berry is of great
importance to the flavour of the preparation, it will be useful and in-
teresting to know how they manage these things in France. In Paris
there are two houses justly celebrated for the flavour of their coffee —
La Maison Corcellet and La Maison Royer de Chartres ; and this
flavour is obtained by adding, before roasting, to every 3 lb. of coffee a
piece of butter the size of a nut, and a dessertspoonful of powdered sugar.
It is then roasted in the usual manner, and a tin in a slack oven, or a
frying pan over the fire will serve, with care. A rotating coffee roaster
is of course much better. The addition of the butter and sugar de-
velops the flavour and aroma of the berry; the butter employed must,
of course, be of the very best quality, and must be used only in very
small quantities.
The Coffee Plant. — This plant (Coffea arabica) grows to the height of about 12 or 15 feet, with
leaves not unlike those of the common laurel, although more pointed and not so dry and thick. The
blossoms are white, much like those of the jasmine, and issue from the angles of the leaf-stalks. When
the flowers fade, they are succeeded by the coffee-bean, or seed, which is enclosed in a berry of a red
colour, when ripe, resembling a cherry. The coffee-beans are prepared by exposing them to the sun
for a few days, that the pulp may ferment and throw off a strong acidulous moisture. They are
then gradually dried for about 3 weeks, and put into a mill to separate the husk from the seed.
RECIPES FOR BEVERAGES
1475
3473* — COFFEE, TO MAKE.
Method. — A cup of really good coffee is the exception rather than the
rule, and yet the process of making it is so simple that it is not easy
to understand why, granted the coffee is of good quality and unsparingly
used, the beverage is so inferior to that prepared abroad. Hard water
makes better coffee than soft water, because the latter extracts certain
strong and bitter principles which overpower the delicate aroma and
flavour of the coffee. Coffee quickly loses its flavour when ground,
therefore it is better to buy the berries and grind them as required.
When this is not practicable, it is advisable to buy pure coffee and
chicory separately, and mix them in proportions palatable to those for
whom the beverage is intended. When expense is not a point to be
considered, coffee alone should be used, and from 2 to 2\ teaspoonfuls
allowed for each breakfastcupful of water. Recent years have introduced
numerous patent coffee apparatus, but nothing further is needed than
a fireproof jug and a piece of muslin or flannel. The water added to
the coffee, or to which the coffee is added, should be quite boiling; and
much of the strength is wasted if the coffee is not brought just to boiling-
point, although strength will be gained at the sacrifice of flavour and:
aroma if the coffee be allowed to boil even for a short time.
3474.— COFFEE, TO MAKE.
Ingredients. — Allow 1 good tablespoonful of freshly ground coffee
to each -1- pint of water.
Method. — Place the coffee in the coffee chamber of a cafetiere, and
pour the boiling water through the distributor on to the coffee. When
the boiling water has percolated through the fine strainer with which
the coffee pot is provided, and has been allowed to stand for a few
minutes, it will be found to be quite clear and ready to serve. Coffee
may be allowed to just come to the boil, but boiling it, even for a short
time, quite destroys its flavour and aroma.
3475. — COFFEE, TO MAKE. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — Allow 2 good teaspoonfuls of freshly ground coffee to
each -} pint of water.
Method. — Make hot an ordinary china jug, put in the coffee, pour on
to it the boiling water, and stir vigorously. Allow the jug to stand
for 5 minutes, closely covered, where the contents will remain just
below boiling point, then pour out a cup of coffee, and at once pour
it back into the jug. Repeat this carefully 2 or 3 times, cover, let the
coffee stand five minutes longer to settle, then pour, without disturbing
the grounds, into a hot coffee pot or jug, and serve as hot as possible.
1476
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
3476. — COFFEE, TO MAKE. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — Allow 1 oz. of freshly ground coffee to each i-§- pints of
water.
Method. — Tie the coffee loosely in a piece of strong muslin. Boil up
the water in a saucepan, put in the coffee, and bring to boiling point.
Now draw the pan aside, cover closely, and allow the coffee to remain
undisturbed for 10 minutes. This method is suitable for making large
quantities of the beverage.
3477. — COFFEE, BLACK. (Fr. — Cafe Noir.)
Ingredients. — To each \ pint of water allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of
coffee.
Method. — Black coffee is prepared in the ordinary way, and can be
made successfully by any of the preceding methods. It should be
made very strong, and strained free from grounds. Black coffee is
generally taken alone without the addition of sugar.
3478. — COFFEE, BURNT.
Ingredients. — Strong coffee, brandy.
Method. — Allow 3 teaspoonfuls of good coliee to each \ pint of water,
and prepare according to any of the preceding methods. Sweeten it
rather more than ordinarily, and strain it into small cups. Pour a
little brandy into each over a spoon, set fire to it, and when the spirit
is partly consumed, the flame should be blown out, and the coffee drunk
immediately.
3479. — COFFEE WITH MILK. (Fr.— Cafe au Lait.)
This beverage is merely strong black coffee to which hot milk is
added, generally in the proportion of 2 or 3 parts milk to 1 part coffee.
It is usual to pour the two liquids into the cup at the same time.
3480. — MATE, OR PARAGUAY TEA.
The leaf of the Brazilian holly or mate is extensively employed in the
South American States as a substitute for Chinese or Indian tea.
3481. — TEA, TO MAKE.
In order to make good tea it is necessary that the water should be
quite boiling, but it must on no account be water that has boiled for
some time, or been previously boiled, cooled, and then re-boiled. It
is a good plan to empty the kettle and refill it with fresh cold water,
and make the tea the moment it reaches boiling point. Soft water
makes the best tea, and boiling softens the water, but after it has boiled
for some time it again becomes hard. When water is very hard a
RECIPES FOR HOME-MADE WINES, ETC. 1477
tiny pinch of carbonate of soda may be put into the teapot with fhe
tea, but it must be used very sparingly, otherwise it may impart a
very unpleasant taste to the beverage. Tea is better made in an earthen
than a metal pot. One good teaspoonful of tea will be found sufficient
for two small cups, if made with boiling water and allowed to stand
3 or 4 minutes; longer than this it should never be allowed to stand.
The delicate flavour of the tea may be preserved, and injurious effects
avoided by pouring the tea, after it has stood 3 or 4 minutes, into a
clean teapot which has been previously heated.
Home-made Wines, etc.
3482. — ALE AND GINGER. (Sdd Mulled Ale, No. 3598.)
3483. — ALLAHABAD TANKARD.
Ingredients. — 1 pint bottle of pale ale, 1 pint of white wine, \ of a pint
of syrup, No. 2599, 1 or 2 sprigs of mint, 1 small slice of toast, \ of a
teaspoonful of grated nutmeg.
Method. — Mix the ale, wine and syrup together. Cut the toast to
fit a glass jug, or silver tankard, sprinkle on the nutmeg, and pour over
the mixed ale, wine and syrup. Serve with mint leaves floating on the
surface.
3484. — APPLE CUP.
Ingredients. — 3 or 4 large apples, 1 pint of cider, sugar to taste, crushed
ice.
Method. — Slice the apples, without paring, barely cover them with
boiling water, and let the water stand covered until cold. Strain, add
the cider, sweeten to taste, pour over the crushed ice, and serve.
3485. — APPLE WINE.
Ingredients. — 5 gallons of good cider, 10 lb. of loaf sugar.
Method. — Put the cider into a cask it will about f- fill, add the sugar,
and stir occasionally with a piece of wood or cane until the sugar is
quite dissolved; at the end of 48 hours put in the bung, and place a
small vent peg near the top of the cask. Allow the cask to remain for
12 months in a cool, dry place, when the wine will be ready for use.
3486. — APRICOT WINE.
Ingredients. — 12 lbs. of sound but not over ripe apricots, 1 lb. of loaf
sugar, 1 pint of white wine, 3 gallons of water, 1 tablespoonful of
compressed yeast, or 1 tablespoonful of good brewer’s yeast.
1478
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Remove the stones of the fruit, take out the kernels, and
cut each apricot into 6 or 8 pieces. Put them into a preserving pan
with the water, sugar, and about half the kernels, and simmer very
gently for i hour. Turn the whole into an earthenware vessel, let it
remain undisturbed until cool, then stir in the yeast; if compressed
yeast is used it must previously be mixed smoothly with a little warm
water. Cover the vessel with a cloth, let it remain undisturbed for
3 days, then strain the liquid into a clean, dry cask, add the white wine,
and bung lightly. At the end of 6 months draw off the wine into bottles,
cork them closely, store in a cool, dry place for about 12 months, and
the wine will be then ready for use.
3487. — APRICOT WINE. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 12 lbs. of firm, ripe apricots, loaf sugar, 2 gallons of
water.
Method. — Prepare the fruit as directed in the preceding recipe, put
it into a preserving pan with 2 gallons of cold water and half the kernels
and boil gently for about 1 hour. Strain, return to the pan; to each
quart of liquid add 6 ozs. of loaf sugar, bring to the boil, and remove
the scum as it rises. Let the whole simmer gently for 10 minutes,
then turn into an earthenware vessel. Allow it to remain covered
until the following day, pour into dry bottles, to each one add a lump
of sugar, and cork closely. Store in a cool, dry place for about 6
months, when the wine should be ready for use.
3488. — BIRCH BEER.
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of black birch bark, 1 oz. of hops, J of a lb. of
pimento, J of a lb. of ginger, 6 pints of golden syrup, 4 a pint of yeast,
or 2 ozs. of German yeast.
Method. — Boil the bark in 3 or 4 pints of water, and, when con-
siderably reduced, strain and boil rapidly until the liquor is as thick
as treacle. Meanwhile boil the hops, pimento and ginger in 6 quarts
of water for 20 minutes, then strain it on to the bark extract. Stir
until it boils, add the golden syrup, and, when quite dissolved, strain
the whole into a cask. Add 10 gallons of water previously boiled and
allowed to cool, and as soon as it becomes lukewarm stir in the liquid
yeast. Let it remain loosely bunged for 2 or 3 days, or until fermenta-
tion has ceased, then strain into small bottles, cork them tightly,
and store in a cool place.
3489. — BLACKBERRY SYRUP.
Ingredients. — To each lb. of fruit allow 1 lb. of loaf or preserving
sugar, and 1 tablespoonful of cold water, brandy.
RECIPES FOR HOME-MADE WINES, ETC, 1479
Method. — Place the fruit, sugar and water in a large jar with a close-
fitting cover, stand the jar in a saucepan of boiling water, and cook
gently for 2 hours. Strain the juice, measure it, put it into a preserving
pan or stewpan (preferably an enamelled one), and boil gently for
20 minutes, skimming carefully meanwhile. To each pint of syrup
add a small glass of brandy, let the whole become quite cold, then bottle
for use.
3490. — CHERRY BOUNCE.
Ingredients. — 12 lbs. of cherries ; to each gallon of juice obtained from
them allow 4 lbs. of sugar, -1 a teaspoonful of ground mace, p of a tea-
spoonful of ground allspice, 1 quart of brandy, and 1 quart of rum.
Method. — Remove the stones, place the fruit in a large jar, and stand
the jar in a saucepan containing boiling water. Cook gently until all
the juice is extracted, strain it and measure it into a preserving pan.
Add sugar, mace and allspice in the proportions stated above, and
simmer the ingredients until the scum ceases to rise. When cold, add
the spirits, and bottle for use.
3491. — CHERRY WINE.
Ingredients. — 12 lbs. of cherries, preferably small black ones, either
loaf or good preserving sugar.
Method. — Place the cherries on a large dish and bruise them well
with a large wooden spoon. Allow them to remain until the following
day, then drain them well on a hair sieve, and measure the juice into
an earthenware vessel. To each quart of juice add 4 a lb of sugar,
cover the vessel, let it stand for 24 hours, and strain the liquor into a
clean, dry cask. Bung closely, but provide the upper part of the cask
with a vent peg; let it remain undisturbed for about 6 months, then
drain off into bottles. Cork closely, store in a cool, dry place, and use
as required.
3492. — CHERRY WINE. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — Ripe cherries. To each quart of juice extracted from
them add a pinch each of ground mace, ground cloves and ground all-
spice, \ a pint of brandy, and } a pint of rum.
Method. — Stone the cherries, put them into a large jar, place it in a
saucepan of boiling water, and cook gently until the juice is all ex-
tracted. Then strain it into a preserving pan, add sugar and flavouring
ingredients in the proportion stated above, and boil and skim until clear.
Let it cool, add the spirits, pour into bottles, cork them closely, and
use as required.
1480 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
3493. — CHERRY BRANDY.
Ingredients. — Sound, not over ripe Morelia cherries. To each lb.,
allow 3 ozs. of best castor, or pounded loaf sugar, good French brandy
to cover them.
Method. — Cut off the stalks, leaving them about i- an inch in length,,
wipe the cherries with a soft cloth, and put them into perfectly dry
wide-necked bottles. Rather more than half fill the bottles,, and place
the fruit and sugar in alternate layers. Fill the bottles with brandy,,
cork them closely, and cover the tops with melted wax or bladder-
Keep for at least 2 months before using.
3494. — CHERRY BRANDY. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — Sound Morelia cherries. To each lb. allow 3 ozs. of
brown sugar candy, 12 apricot, peach, or plum kernels, \ of an oz of
shredded bitter almond, \ of an inch of cinnamon, and good French
brandy to cover.
Method. — Cut off the stalks, leaving them about i an inch in length,,
wipe the cherries wdth a soft cloth, and prick them wrell with a coarse
darning needle. Half fill some wide-necked bottles with the prepared
fruit; to each one add sugar candy, etc., in the above-stated proportions,
and fill the bottles wuth brandy. Cork closely, cover the top with melted
wax or bladder, and keep for at least 3 months before using.
3495. — CIDER.
Cider is the fermented juice of apples, and it is chiefly manufactured
in Dorsetshire, Devonshire, Gloucestershire, Herefordshire, Norfolk and
Worcestershire. The juice is extracted by first crushing the apples
in a cider-mill, and afterwards subjecting the pulp to heavy pressure.
The product is either diluted with waiter, and sold as Sweet Cider,
or it is allowed to ferment in barrels, which in some districts are closed
at the top, and in others open, and simply covered with a cloth. When
active fermentation has subsided the cider is drawn off into casks,
where it remains for several months before it is ready for bottling or
drinking. Some varieties of effervescing cider almost approach cham-
pagne in character.
3496. — CIDER PUNCH.
Ingredients. — 1 quart of cider iced, 1 bottle of iced seltzer or soda
water, 1 wineglassful of brandy, 2 ozs. of sugar, or to taste, 1 lemon
thinly sliced.
Method. — Mix all the ingredients together in a glass jug, and serve
in small glasses.
1482 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
3500. — CURRANT WINE, RED.
Ingreiients. — Ripe red currants. To each gallon of fruit allow i-J-
gallons of cold water, and 5 lbs. either loaf sugar or good preserving
sugar, and \ a pint of good brandy.
Method. — Remove the stalks from the currants, put them into an
earthenware bowl, bruise them well with a wooden spoon, and drain
off the juice. Put the juice aside, add the water to the berries, let
it stand for 2 or 3 hours, stirring occasionally meanwhile. At the end
of this time strain the liquid from the berries into the juice, add J of
the sugar, stir occasionally until dissolved, then pour the whole into a
cask, filling it three parts full. Bung closely, but place a vent peg near
the top of the cask, and let- the cask remain for 1 month where a uni-
form temperature of about 65° Fahr. can be maintained. Dissolve the
remainder of the sugar in the smallest possible quantity of warm water,
mix it well with the contents of the cask, replace the bung, and allow
the cask to remain undisturbed for 6 weeks longer. Now drain off the
wine into a clean, dry cask, add the brandy, let the cask stand for about
6 months in a dry, warm place, then bottle and cork tightly. The
wine may be used at once, but will be better if kept for 12 months at
least.
3501. — CURRANT AND RASPBERRY WINE.
Ingredients. — 5 gallons of red-currant juice, 1 pint of raspberry juice,
10 gallons of water, 10 lbs. of either loaf sugar or good preserving sugar.
Method. — Extract the juice as directed in the two preceding recipes.
Add to it the water and sugar, stir until the latter is dissolved, then
turn the whole into a cask, and bung closely, but provide the top of
the cask with a vent peg. As soon as fermentation ceases, tighten the
vent peg, and let the cask remain undisturbed in a moderately warm
place for 12 months. At the end of this time rack off into dry bottles,
cork them closely, and seal the top with melted wax. The wine should
be ready for use in about 3 months.
3502. — DAMSON WINE.
Ingredients. — To each gallon of damsons add 1 gallon of boiling water.
To each gallon of liquor obtained from these add 4 lbs. of loaf sugar,
and l a pint of French brandy.
Method. — Remove the stalks, put the fruit into an earthenware
bowl, pour in the boiling water, and cover with a cloth. Stir the liquid
3 or 4 times daily for 4 days, then add the sugar and brandy, and w'hen
the former is dissolved, turn the whole into a clean dry cask. Cover
the bung-hole with a cloth, folded into several thicknesses, until fer-
mentation ceases, then bung tightly, and allow the cask to remain
undisturbed for 12 months in a moderately warm place. At the end
RECIPES FOR HOME-MADE WINES, ETC. 1483
of this time it should be racked off into bottles. The wine may be used
at once, but if well corked and stored in a dry place it may be kept for
years.
3503. — DANDELION WINE.
Ingredients. — 4 quarts of dandelion flowers, 4 quarts of boiling water,
3 lbs. of loaf sugar, 1 inch whole ginger, 1 lemon, the thinly-pared
rind of 1 orange, 1 tablespoonful of brewer’s yeast or p of an oz. of
compressed yeast moistened with water.
Method. — Put the petals of the flowers into a bowl, pour over them
the boiling water, let the bowl remain covered for 3 days, meanwhile
stirring it well and frequently. Strain the liquid into a preserving
pan, add the rinds of the orange and lemon, both of which should be
pared off in thin fine strips, the sugar, ginger, and the lemon previously
stripped of its white pith, and thinly sliced. Boil gently for about
4 an hour, and when cool add the yeast spread on a piece of toast.
Allow it to stand for 2 days, then turn it into a cask, keep it well bunged
down for 8 or 9 weeks, and bottle the wine for rase.
3504. — EAST INDIA PUNCH.
Ingredients. — \ a pint of brandy, 1 pint of port wine, 1 pint of syrup.
No. 2599, \ a pint of lime-juice syrup, 1 bottle of seltzer water iced,
\ a gill of arrack, the thinly pared rinds of 2 lemons, 2 or 3 sprigs of
syringa, 1 breakfastcupful of crushed ice, sugar to taste.
Method. — Soak the lemon-rind in the brandy for 3 hours, then strain,
add the rest of the ingredients, and serve.
3505. — EGG FLIP. (See Sherry Egg Flip, No. 3626.)
3506. — ELDERBERRY WINE. (See Elder Wine, No.
35 07O
3507. - -ELDER WINE.
Ingredients. — 7 lbs. of elderberries, 3 gallons of water. To each gallon
of liquid thus obtained add 3 lbs. of good loaf sugar, 1 lb. of raisins,
\ an oz. of ground ginger, 6 cloves, \ of a pint of brandy, \ a teaspoonful
of brewer’s yeast.
Method. — Strip the berries from the stalks, pour the water, quite
boiling, over them, let them stand for 24 hours, then bruise well and drain
through a hair sieve or jelly bag. Measure the juice obtained, put it
into a preserving pan with sugar, raisins, ginger, and cloves in above-
stated proportions, boil gently for 1 hour, and skim when necessary.
Let the liquid stand until milk-warm, then stir in the yeast and turn
1484
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
the whole into a clean, dry cask. Cover the bung-hole with a folded
cloth, let the cask remain undisturbed for 14 days, then stir in the brandy
and bung tightly. In about 6 months the wine may be drawn off into
bottles, tightly corked, and stored for use.
Elderberry Wine. — The elderberry is well adapted for the production of wine ; its juice contains
a considerable portion of the principle necessary for a vigorous fermentation, and its beautiful colour
communicates a rich tint to the wine made from it. It is, however, deficient in sweetness, and there-
fore demands an addition of sugar. It is one of the best old English wines.
3508. — FLOSTER.
Ingredients. — 1 gill of sherry, ^ a gill of noyeau, 1 oz. of loaf sugar,
3 or 4 thin slices of lemon, 1 bottle of iced soda-water, 1 lump of ice.
Method. — Mix all the ingredients together in a large tumbler, and
imbibe through a straw.
3509. — GINGER BEER.
Ingredients. — 5 quarts of boiling water, ij lb. of sugar, 1 oz. of whole
ginger bruised, 2 lemons, J of an oz. of cream of tartar, 1 good table-
spoonful of brewer’s yeast.
Method. — Remove the rinds of the lemons as thinly as possible, strip
off every particle of white pith, cut the lemons into thin slices, removing
the pips. Put the sliced lemon into an earthenware bowl with the
sugar, ginger, and cream of tartar, and pour in the boiling water.
Allow it to stand until milk-warm, then stir in the yeast and let the
bowl remain in a moderately warm place for 24 hours. Skim the yeast
off the top, strain the ginger-beer carefully from the sediment, bottle,
tie the corks down securely, and in 2 days it will be ready for use.
3510. — GINGER BRANDY.
Ingredients. — 2 ozs. of Jamaica ginger, 1 quart of brandy, a pint of
water, 1 lb. of sugar, 2 ozs. of juniper berries (mixed black and white).
Method. — Crush finely the ginger and juniper berries, put them into
a wude-necked bottle, and pour in the brandy. Cork securely, let the
bottle stand in a warm place for 3 days, shaking it 3 or 4 times daily.
On the third day boil the sugar and water to a thick syrup, and when
cool add to it the brandy, which must previously be strained through
fine muslin or filtering paper until quite clear. When quite cold,
bottle, cork securely, and store for use.
3511. _GINGER wine.
Ingredients. — 3 gallons of cold water, 9 lbs. of loaf sugar, J of a lb. of
whole ginger, bruised, \ of a lb. of raisins, the strained juice and finely-
pared rinds of 4 lemons, a good tablespoonful of brewer’s yeast.
Method. — Stone and halve the raisins, put them into a large preserving
pan, or perfectly clean copper, with the water, sugar, and ginger^
RECIPES FOR HOME-MADE WINES, ETC, 1485
bruised ; boil for 1 hour, skimming frequently. Turn the whole into a
large earthenware bowl or wooden tub, allow the liquid to stand until
milk-warm, then stir in the yeast. On the following day put the
preparation into a clean, dry cask, add the lemon-juice, and bung
lightly. Stir the wine every day for a fortnight, then tighten the bung.
Let the wine remain undisturbed for 3 or 4 months, when it may be
bottled for use.
3512. -GINGER WINE. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 6 gallons of water, 14 lbs. of loaf sugar, 6 ozs. of whole
ginger, bruised, 2 lbs. of Muscatel raisins, 4 lbs. of Valencia raisins,
-Jr an oz. of isinglass, 6 lemons, 1 pint of brandy.
Method. — Remove the peel of the lemons as thinly as possible, and
boil it with the water, sugar and ginger for -V an hour. Meanwhile
stone and halve the raisins, put them into an earthenware bowl, pour
the liquid over them when nearly cold, add the lemon-juice and
yeast. Stir it every day for a fortnight, then add the isinglass previ-
ously dissolved in a little warm water, and drain into a clean, dry
cask. Let the wine remain closely bunged for about 3 months, then
bottle for use.
35I3-— 1 gooseberry vinegar.
Ingredients. — 14 lbs. of ripe green gooseberries, 12 lbs. of sugar, 6
gallons of water.
Method. — Bruise the gooseberries in a bowl or tub, and pour over
them the water, which must previously be boiled and allowed to cool.
Let them remain for 3 days, stirring frequently, then strain, add the
sugar, and when dissolved pour the whole into a clean, dry cask. Bung
loosely until fermentation has ceased, then tighten the bung, and let
the cask remain in a dry, moderately warm place for 9 months. At
the end of this time. rack the vinegar into clean, dry bottles, store
for 3 or 4 months longer, then use.
3514.— GOOSEBERRY WINE.
Ingredients. — 20 lbs. of firm green gooseberries, 3 gallons of hot water,
15 lbs. of loaf sugar, i-Jr ozs. of cream of tartar.
Method.— Top and tail the gooseberries, put them into an earthenware
bowl or wooden tub, and pour over them the hot water. Let them soak
for 24 hours, then bruise them well with a heavy wooden mallet or
potato masher, and drain the juice through a fine hair sieve or jelly-
bag. Replace the skins in the vessel in which they were soaked, cover
them with boiling water, stir and bruise well so as to completely ex-
tract the juice, then strain through the sieve or bag. Mix this pre-
paration with the juice, add the sugar, and boiling water to increase
i486
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
the liquid to 5 gallons. Replace in the bowl or tub, stir in the cream
of tartar, cover with a heavy woollen cloth, and allow the vessel to
stand in a moderately warm place for 2 days. Now strain the liquid
into a small cask, cover the bung-hole with a folded cloth until fermenta-
tion ceases — which may be known by the cessation of the hissing noise —
then bung closely, but provide the top of the cask with a vent-peg.
Make this wine in the beginning of J une, before the berries ripen ;
let it remain undisturbed until December, then drain it off carefully
into a clean cask. In March or April, or when the gooseberry bushes
begin to blossom, the wine must be bottled and tightly corked. To
ensure its being clear and effervescing, the wine must be bottled at the
right time and on a clear day.
3515. -GOOSEBERRY WINE. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — Firm green gooseberries. To each lb, of fruit allow
2 pints of cold water. To each gallon of juice obtained from the fruit
allow 3 lbs. of loaf sugar, \ a pint of good gin, 4 ozs. of isinglass.
Method. — Top and tail the gooseberries, bruise them thoroughly,
pour over them the cold water, and let them stand for about 4 days,
stirring frequently. Strain through a jelly-bag or fine hair sieve,
dissolve the sugar in the liquid, add the gin and isinglass dissolved in
a little warm water, and pour the whole into a cask. Bung loosely
until fermentation has ceased, then tighten the bung, and let the cask
remain undisturbed for at least 6 months. At the end of this time
the wine may be bottled, but it will not be ready for use for at
least 12 months.
3516. — GRAPE WINE.
Ingredients. — Sound, not over-ripe grapes; to each lb. allow 1 quart
of cold water. Add to each gallon of liquid obtained from the grapes
3 lbs. of loaf sugar, 4 of a pint of French brandy, J of an oz. of isinglass.
Method. — Strip the grapes from the stalks, put them into a wooden
tub or earthenware bowl, and bruise them well. Pour over them the
water, let them stand for 3 days, stirring frequently, then strain through
a jelly-bag or line hair sieve. Dissolve the sugar in the liquid, then pour
the whole into a cask. Bung lightly for a few days until fermentation
subsides, then add the isinglass dissolved in a little warm water, and
the brandy, and tighten the bung. Let the cask x'emain undisturbed
for 6 months, then rack the wine off into bottles, cork and seal them
securely, and keep for at least a year before using.
3517. — HOP BEER.
Ingredients. — 5 ozs. of hops, 8 gallons of water, 2} lb. of brown sugar,
3 or 4 tablespoonfuls of yeast.
RECIPES FOR HOME-MADE WINES, ETC. 1487
Mathod. — Boil hops and water together for 45 minutes, add the sugar,
and, when dissolved, strain into a bowl or tub. As soon as it is luke-
warm add the yeast, let it work for 48 hours, then skim well, and strain
into bottles, or a small cask. Cork securely, and let it remain for a few
days before using it.
3518. — HOPS AND SHERRY. (See Sherry Tonic,
No. 3549.)
3519. JOHN COLLINS.
Ingredients. — 1 glass of gin, 1 bottle of iced soda water, 1 level tea-
spoonful of sugar, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 2 or 3 thin slices of
lemon, crushed ice.
Method. — Half fill a tumbler with ice, pour over it the gin and lemon-
juice, add the sugar, cover with a small plate, and shake well. Strain
into another tumbler, add the soda water, 1 tablespoonful of crushed
ice, and the sliced lemon, then serve.
3520. — LEMON FLIP.
Ingredients. — \ of a pint of lemon-juice, the rind of 2 lemons, 5 or 6
ozs. of castor sugar, 4 eggs, 1 pint of boiling water, } of a pint of sherry.
Method. — Take the rind off 2 lemons in the thinnest possible strips.
Put them into a jug with the sugar, add the boiling water, and let it
stand until cold. Now stir in the well-beaten eggs, the strained lemon-
juice and the sherry, strain through a fine strainer, and use.
3521. — LEMON SYRUP.
Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of loaf sugar, 2 pints of water, 1 oz. of citric acid,
\ a drachm of essence of lemon.
Method. — Boil the sugar and water together for 15 minutes, and put
the liquid into a basin, where let it remain till cold. Beat the citric
acid to a powder, mix with it the essence of lemon, then add these
two ingredients to the syrup, mix well, and bottle for use. 2 table-
spoonfuls of the syrup are sufficient for a tumbler of cold water, and
will be found a very refreshing summer drink.
3522. — LEMON SYRUP. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 1 lemon, 1 lb. of loaf sugar, \ an oz. of tartaric acid,
1 pint of boiling water.
Method. — Take off the rind of the lemon in thin fine strips and place
them in a jug. Remove the whole of the white pith, slice the lemon
thinly, put it into the jug with the sugar and tartaric acid, pour in the
water, and stir until the sugar is dissolved. When quite cold, strain
the syrup into a bottle and cork tightly. A pleasant drink may be
made by adding 1 part of this syrup to 6 parts of water.
1488. HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
3523. — LEMON WINE.
Ingredients. — 10 lemons, 4 lbs. of loaf sugar, 4 quarts of boiling water,
1 tablespoonful of brewer’s yeast.
Method. — Remove the rinds of 5 lemons in thin fine strips, and place
them in a wooden tub or earthenware bqwl. Boil the sugar and water
together for \ an hour, then pour the syrup over the lemon-peel. When
cool, add the strained juice of the 10 lemons, stir in the yeast, and let
the vessel stand for 48 hours. At the end of this time, strain into a
cask, which the wine must quite fill, bung loosely until fermentation
ceases, then tighten the bung, and allow the ca.sk to remain undisturbed
for about 6 months before racking the wine off into bottles.
3524. — LEMON WINE. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — To \\ gallons of water allow the pulp and juice of 50
and the rinds of 25 lemons, 16 lbs. of loaf sugar, \ an oz. of isinglass,
1 pint of brandy.
Method. — Remove the rinds of 25 lemons in thin strips, remove
from each lemon every particle of white pith, and cut them into slices.
Put aside the pips, place the sliced lemon rind and lemons in a wooden
tub or earthenware bowl, and pour over them the cold water. Stir
frequently for 7 days, then strain into a cask and add the sugar. Bung
loosely until fermentation ceases, then add the isinglass dissolved in
a little water, and bung tightly for 6 months. At the end of this time
add the brandy, and rack the wine off into bottles.
3525.— MALT WINE.
Ingredients.— q gallons of water, 28 lbs. of sugar, 6 quarts of sweet-
wort, 6 quarts of tun, 3 lbs. of raisins, % a lb. of candy, 1 pint of brandy.
Method. — Boil the sugar and water together for 10 minutes; skim it
well, and put the liquor into a convenient sized pan or tub. Allow it
to cool ; then mix it with the sweet-wort and tun. Let the preparation
stand for 3 days, then put it into a barrel, and let it ferment for
another 3 days or more, then bung up the cask, and keep it undis-
turbed for 2 or 3 months. After this, add the raisins (whole), the candy
and brandy, and in 6 months’ time bottle off the wine. Those who do
not brew may procure the sweet-wort and tun from any brewer.
Note. — Sweet-wort is the liquor that leaves the mash of malt before it is
boiled with the hops ; tun is the new beer after the whole of the brewing
operation has been completed.
3526. — MEAD.
Ingredients. — 3 lbs. of honey, 4 quarts of water, 4 of a pint of brewer’s
yeast.
RECIPES FOR HOME-MADE WINES, ETC. 1489
Method. — Dissolve the honey in the water, bring it slowly to the boil,
and simmer gently until reduced to 3 quarts, skimming when necessary.
Then turn it into an earthenware bowl or wooden tub, and when cool
stir in the yeast, and let it remain covered for 3 days. At the end of
this time strain the liquid into a cask, bung loosely until fermentation
subsides, then tighten the bung, and allow the cask to remain undis-
turbed for 12 months before racking the mead into bottles.
3527. — MEAD. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 5 lbs. of honey, 3 gallons of water, the whites of 2 eggs,
1 blade of mace, 4 an inch of cinnamon, 3 cloves, \ an inch of whole
ginger, 1 tablespoonful of brewer’s yeast.
Method. — Beat the whites of eggs slightly, put them into a large
pan with the water, honey, mace, cinnamon, cloves and ginger, whisk
or stir frequently till boiling point is reached, then simmer gently
for 1 hour. Let the preparation cool, strain it into a cask, stir
in the yeast, cover the bung-hole with a folded cloth until fermentation
ceases, then bung tightly, and let the cask stand in a cool, drv place
for 9 months. At the end of this time rack the mead carefully into
bottles, and cork them tightly. The mead may be used at once, but
it will keep good for years, if stored in a cool, dry place.
3528. — MEAD WINE.
Ingredients. — 5 gallons of water, 5 lbs. of honey, 2 ozs. of dried hops,
1 tablespoonful of yeast.
Method. — Dissolve the honey in the water, add the hops, and simmer
very gently for 1 hour, turn into an earthenware bowl, let it become
milk-warm, then stir in the yeast. Allow it to remain covered for 3
days, then strain the liquid into a cask, bung loosely until fermentation
subsides, and afterwards tighten the bung. The wine should remain
in the cask for 12 months, and then be racked off carefully into bottles.
3529. — METHEGLIN.
Ingredients. — 3^ lbs. of honey, 1 quart of white-currant juice, 2 gallons
of boiling water, ^ of an oz. of cream of tartar, 1 pint of brandy.
Method.- — Mix all together but the brandy, and stir until the honey
is dissolved. Let it remain until fermentation ceases, then strain,
add the brandy, bottle, and cork securely.
Or dissolve 4 \ lbs. of honey in 5 quarts of boiling water in which 1 oz.
of hops has been simmered for 20 minutes, and, when cool, stir in 2 or 3
tablespoonfuls of yeast. When fermentation has ceased, strain into
bottles and cork securely.
1490
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
3530. — MULLED WINE. ( See Mulled Claret, No. 3599,
and Negus, No. 3600.)
3531. — ORANGE BRANDY.
Ingredients. — 2 quarts of French brandy, f of a pint of orange-juice,
the rind of 6 oranges, 1-4- lb. of loaf sugar.
Method. — Remove the rinds of 6 oranges as thinly as possible, mix
the strained orange-juice and brandy together, add the prepared rinds
and sugar, and turn the whole into a wide-necked bottle. Cork closely,
shake it 2 or 3 times daily for 10 days, then strain into small bottles,
and store for use.
3532. - ORANGE WINE.
Ingredients. — The juice of 50 Seville oranges, 15 lbs. of loaf sugar,
4 gallons of water, the whites and shells of 3 eggs, 1 pint of French
brandy, 3 tablespoonfuls of brewer’s yeast.
Method. — Dissolve the sugar in the water, add the whites and crushed
shells of the eggs, bring to the boil, and simmer gently for 20 minutes.
Let it stand until nearly cold, then strain through a jelly-bag, add the
strained orange- juice and yeast, and leave the vessel covered for 24
hours. Pour into a cask, bung loosely until fermentation subsides,
then tighten the bung, and allow the cask to remain undisturbed for
3 months. At the end of this time rack it off into another cask, add
the brandy, let it remain closely bunged for 12 months, then bottle
for use.
3533. — ORANGE WINE. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 00 Seville oranges., 32 lbs. of loaf sugar, cold water.
Method. — Remove the peel of 20 oranges as thinly as possible, put
it into an earthenware bowl, and cover it with water. Extract as
much of the juice as possible from all the oranges, and strain it over the
sugar. Put the pulp into a separate vessel, and cover it with water.
Let the whole stand for 48 hours, then put the sugar and orange-juice
into a 9-gallon cask, strain, and add the liquid from the orange-rinds
and pulp. Cover the rinds and pulp with more water, and repeat the
same process every 48 hours until the cask is full. Bung loosely for
3 or 4 days, then tighten the bung, and after 9 months, bottle for use.
3534- — PARSNIP WINE.
Ingredients. — 4 lbs. of parsnips, 3 lbs. of Demerara sugar, -l of an oz.
of mild hops, 1 tablespoonful of fresh yeast, x slice of toasted bread.
4 quarts of boiling water.
RECIPES FOR HOME-MADE WINES,
ETC. 1491
Method. — Boil the parsnips gently in the water for 15 minutes, add
the hops, and cook for 10 minutes longer. Strain, add the sugar,
let the liquid become lukewarm, and put in the toast spread with the
yeast. Let it ferment for 36 hours, then turn it into a cask, which it
should fill. As soon as fermentation ceases, strain into small bottles,
cork securely, and store for at least 1 month before using.
3535- — RAHAHOUT.
Ingredients. — 1 teaspoonful of grated chocolate, 1 teacupful of castor
sugar, 1 teacupful of rice-flour, 1 tablespoonful of arrowroot, 1 small
vanilla pod.
Method. — Pound and sieve the vanilla, add the rest of the ingredients,
and turn into an air-tight tin. When required for use, mix 1 dessert-
spoonful smoothly with a little cold milk or water, stir in ^ of a pint of
boiling milk, bring to the boil, cook for a few seconds, and serve.
3536. — RAISIN WINE.
Ingredients. — To each lb. of raisins allow 1 gallon of cold water,
2 lbs. of good preserving sugar, 1 tablespoonful of yeast.
Method. — Strip the raisins from the stalk, put them into a large
boiler or clean copper with the water, simmer gently for about 1 hour,
then rub them through a sieve. Dissolve the sugar in the liquid, and
add the raisin-pulp and the yeast, let the vessel stand covered for 3
days, then strain the liquid into a cask. Bung loosely until fermenta-
tion ceases, then tighten the bung, and allow the cask to stand for at
least 12 months before racking the wine off into bottles.
3537. — RAISIN WINE. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 16 lbs. of raisins, 2 gallons of water.
Method. — Strip the raisins from the stalks, put them into an earthen-
ware or wooden vessel, pour over them the water, and let them remain
covered for 4 weeks, stirring daily. At the end of this time strain the
liquid into a cask which it will quite fill, bung loosely until fermentation
subsides, then tighten the bung, and allow the cask to remain undis-
turbed for 12 months. Now rack it off carefully into another cask,
straining the liquid near the bottom of the cask repeatedly until quite
clear, let it stand for at least 2 years, and then bottle for use.
3538. RAISIN WINE WITH CIDER.
Ingredients. — 8 gallons of good cider, 15 lbs. of Malaga raisins, 1 bottle
of French brandy, 3 ozs. of sugar candy, the rind of 1 lemons.
Method. — Strip the raisins from the stalks, halve them, put them
into a 9 gallon cask, and pour over them the cider. Bung lightly for
5 or 6 days, then tighten the bung and let the cask stand for 6 months.
1492
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Strain into another cask, passing the liquid near the bottom repeatedly
through a jelly-bag or fine muslin until quite clear, add the brandy,
the sugar-candy crushed to a powder, and the finely-pared rind of the
lemons. Keep the wine well bunged for 2 years, then bottle, cork and
seal securely, store it in a cool, dry place for one year longer, when it
will be ready for use.
3539. — RASPBERRY BRANDY.
Ingredients. — 1 pint of ripe raspberries, 1 quart of French brandy,
\ of a lb. of loaf sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls of cold water.
Method. — Put the raspberries into a wide-necked bottle, pour the
brandy over them, cork the bottle tightly, and let it stand in a moder-
ately warm place for 14 days. Have ready a thick syrup, made by
boiling together the sugar and water until the right consistency is
obtained. Strain the liquor from the bottle repeatedly until quite
clear, then mix it with the syrup, and pour the whole into small bottles.
Cork them securely, and store for use.
3540. — RASPBERRY GIN.
Ingredients. — 1 quart of ripe raspberries, 1 quart of good gin, 1 lb. of
sugar-candy.
Method. — Break the sugar-candy in small pieces, put it into a jar
with the raspberries and gin, cover closely, and let it remain thus for
12 months, shaking it daily for 3 or 4 weeks. At the end of the time
strain or filter until clear, and bottle for use.
3541. — RASPBERRY VINEGAR.
Ingredients. — 3 lbs. of ripe raspberries, 3 pints of white wine vinegar,
loaf sugar.
Method. — Put 1 lb. of picked raspberries into a wide-necked glass
bottle, pour over them the vinegar, and let them infuse for 3 days.
Strain the liquid through a hair sieve, drain the fruit thoroughly, but
do not squeeze it. Pour the liquid over another lb. of the raspberries,
and after 3 days strain and drain as before. Repeat the process with
the third lb. of raspberries. Measure the liquid; to each pint allow 1 lb.
of sugar; put the whole into a saucepan (preferably an enamelled one),
and boil gently for 10 minutes, skimming when necessary meanwhile.
When quite cold strain into small bottles, cork securely, and store for
use.
3542. — RASPBERRY VINEGAR. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 2 quarts of raspberries, 2 quarts of white vine vinegar.
To each pint of liquid obtained from these add 1 lb. of loaf sugar.
RECIPES FOR HOME-MADE WINES, ETC. 1493
Method. — Put the raspberries into a wide-necked glass bottle, or an
unglazed jar; pour over them the vinegar; cover, and let the liquid
stand tor 10 days, stirring it daily. Strain and measure the vinegar ;
to each pint allow ib. of sugar, and stir occasionally till the sugar is
dissolved. Pour the whole into a jar, place the jar in a saucepan of
boiling water, and simmer gently for ij hours, skimming when neces-
sary. When cold, bottle for use.
3543.— RASPBERRY AND CURRANT WINE.
Ingredients. — 6 quarts of raspberries, 4 quarts of red currants, 10
quarts of water, 10 lbs. of good preserving sugar, 1 pint of French
brandy.
Method. — Strip the red currants from the stalks, put them into a large
earthenware or wooden vessel, and pour over them the water (which
must have been previously boiled, and allowed to become quite cold).
On the following day crush the red currants with a wooden mallet or
potato masher, add the raspberries, and allow the whole to stand until
the following day. Strain the liquid through a jelly-bag or fine hair
sieve, and drain the fruit thoroughly, but do not squeeze it. Stir in
the sugar, and when quite dissolved turn the wine into a clean, dry
cask. Bung loosely until fermentation has entirely subsided, then
tighten the bung, and allow’ the cask to remain undisturbed for 3 months.
At the end of this time rack the wine off carefully, straining that near
the bottom of the cask repeatedly until quite clear. Scald and drain
the cask, replace the wine, add the brandy, bung lightly, let it remain
2 months longer in the cask, and then bottle.
3544.— RASPBERRY WINE.
Ingredients. — 10 quarts of ripe raspberries, 10 quarts of boiling water,
6 lbs. of good preserving sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls of brewer’s yeast,
1 pint of French brandy, ;j- of an oz. of isinglass.
Method. — Prepare the fruit in the usual v'ay, put it into an earthen-
ware or wooden vessel, pour over it the boiling water, and let it remain
covered until the following day. Pass both liquid and fruit through
a fine hair sieve, let it stand for 24 hours, then strain it carefully,
without disturbing the sediment, into another vessel. Add the sugar,
stir in the yeast, and as soon as the sugar is dissolved turn the whole
into a clean, dry cask. Cover the bung-hole with a folded cloth until
fermentation subsides, then bung it closely. Let it stand for 1 month,
rack it off into a clean cask, add the brandy, and isinglass dissolved
in a little warm water, bung tightly, and allow it to remain undisturbed
for 12 months. At the end of this time rack it off into bottles, cork
them securely, store for 12 months longer, and the wine will be ready
for use.
1494
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
3545- — RASPBERRY WINE. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 6 quarts of ripe raspberries, 6 quarts of water, loaf sugar.
Method. — Put the raspberries into an earthenware or wooden vessel,
bruise them well with a heavy wooden spoon, and pour over them the
cold water. Let them stand until the following day, stirring them fre-
quently, then strain the liquid through a jelly-bag or fine hair sieve,
and drain the fruit thoroughly, but avoid squeezing it. Measure the
liquid; to each quart add i lb. of sugar ; stir occasionally until dissolved,
then turn the whole into a cask. Bung loosely for several davs, until
fermentation ceases, then tighten the bung, let it remain thus for 3
months, and bottle for use.
3546. — RHUBARB WINE.
Ingredients. — 25 lbs. of rhubarb, 5 gallons of cold water: to each gallon
of liquid thus obtained add 3 lbs. of either loaf or good preserving
sugar, and the juice and very thinly pared rind of 1 lemon. To the whole
add 1 oz. of isinglass.
Method. — Wipe the rhubarb with a damp cloth, and cut it into short
lengths, leaving on the peel. Put it into an earthenware or wooden
vessel, crush it thoroughly with a wooden mallet or heavy potato
masher, and pour over it the water. Let it remain covered for 10 days,
stirring it daily; then strain the liquor into another vessel, add the
sugar, lemon-juice and rind, and stir occasionally until the sugar is
dissolved. Now put it into a cask, and add the isinglass previously
dissolved in a little warm water ; cover the bung-hole with a folded
cloth for 10 days, then bung securely, and allow it to remain undisturbed
for 12 months. At the end of this time rack off into bottles, and use.
3547. — RHUBARB WINE. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 20 lbs. of rhubarb, 5 gallons of cold water, 12 lbs. of loaf
or good preserving sugar, 1 pint of French brandy, 4 a lb. of barley-
sugar, \ an oz. of isinglass, the rind of 2 oranges, the rind of 2 lemons.
Method. — Wipe the rhubarb with a damp cloth, slice it thinly, put
it into a large earthenware or wooden vessel, pour over it the water,
and let it stand closely covered for 4 days. Strain the liquid through
a jelly-bag or fine sieve, pressing the pulp as dry as possible without
allowing any of it to pass through the sieve. Add the sugar, stir
occasionally until dissolved, then turn the preparation into a cask,
and cover the bung-hole with a folded cloth. As soon as fermentation
subsides add the brandy. Bung the cask securely, and allow' it to
remain undisturbed for 3 months. Rack the wine into a clean, dry cask,
add the very finely-pared rind of the oranges and lemons, the barley-
sugar finely-powdered, and the isinglass dissolved in a little warm
water. Bung the cask securely, store in a cool, dry place for at least
12 months, then bottle, cork securely, store for 6 months longer, when
the w7ine will be ready for use.
RECIPES FOR HOME-MADE WINES, ETC. 1495
3548. — RUM PUNCH. (See Whisky Punch, No. 3612.)
3549.— SHERRY TONIC.
Ingredients. — Hops, sherry.
Method. — Strip the hops from the stalks, put them into wide-necked
bottles, filling them to the neck, and cover with sherry. Let them
infuse for 21 days, then strain into clean, dry bottles, cork securely,
and store for use.
355°- — SHRUB.
Ingredients. — 1- gallon of rum, f- of a pint of orange-juice, 4 a pint of
lemon-juice, the peel of 2 lemons, 2 lbs. of loaf sugar, 2 \ pints of water.
Method. — Slice the lemon-peel very thinly, and put it, with the fruit
juice and spirit, in a large covered jar. Let it stand for 2 days, then
pour over it the water in which the sugar has been dissolved, take out
the lemon-peel, and leave it for 12 days before using.
3551. -SUBSTITUTE FOR MILK OR CREAM.
Ingredients. — Allow 1 new-laid egg to a breakfastcupful of tea or coffee.
Method. — Beat the egg well, strain it into the cup, and add the tea
or coffee very gradually at first, stirring briskly meanwhile.
3552. TURNIP WINE.
Ingredients. — Turnips; to each gallon of turnip juice extracted add
3 lbs. of loaf sugar, and \ a pint of brandy.
Method. — Wash, pare and slice the turnips, put them into a cider
press, and press out the juice. Measure the juice into a clean, dry
cask, add the sugar and brandy, and bung loosely. As soon as fermenta-
tion ceases tighten the bung, let the wine remain undisturbed for 3
months, then bottle and cork securely. The wine should be ready for
use in a year.
3553- — WEDDING PUNCH.
Ingredients. — 1 quart of champagne, 1 bottle of claret, 1 bottle of
seltzer water iced, 1 wineglassful of cura£oa, sugar to taste, \ a pint of
crushed ice, strips of cucumber, sprigs of young mint.
Method. — Mix all the ingredients together, and serve with the mint
and cucumber floating on the surface.
3534. — WELSH NECTAR.
Ingredients. — ~J- a lb. of raisins, 1 lb. of loaf sugar, 2 small lemons,
4 quarts of boiling water.
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1496
Method. — Remove the rinds of the lemons as thinly as possible, and
pour over them the boiling water. When cool, add the strained juice
of the lemons, the raisins stoned and finely chopped, and the sugar.
Cover ; let the preparation remain for 5 days, stirring 3 or 4 times daily,
then strain into bottles. This beverage will keep good only a short time.
Liqueurs
3555* — ANISE LIQUEUR.
Ingredients. — 1 quart of good brandy, 1 oz. of anise-seed, 1 lb. of loaf
sugar, 1 pint of water.
Method. — Put the anise-seed into the brandy, and let it stand, closely
corked, for a fortnight, shaking it occasionally ; boil the sugar and water
to a syrup, and strain the brandy into it. When cool, bottle, cork
securely, and store for use.
3556. — ARRACK LIQUEUR.
Ingredients. — 1 quart of arrack, 1 quart of water, 1 lb. of sugar-candy,
the rind of \ a lemon.
Method. — Remove the outer part of the lemon rind as thinly as
possible, add it and the sugar-candy to the water, and boil gently
until a moderately thick syrup is formed. When cold, strain and add
it to the arrack, bottle, cork securely, and store for use.
Arrack. — This spirit is produced by fermenting the juice of the cocoa and other palms ; it is exten-
sively used in the East, but is little known in England.
3557. — SLACK CURRANT LIQUEUR.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of black currants, f of a lb. of sugar-candy,
pints of good gin.
Method. — Strip the fruit from the stalks, put it into a wide-necked
bottle, add the sugar-candy crushed to a fine powMer, and pour in the
gin. Let it stand for 2 months, then strain until it is quite clear,
and bottle for use.
3558. -CARAWAY LIQUEUR.
Ingredients. — 1 oz. of caraway seeds, \ a lb. of loaf sugar, 1 quart of
brandy, \ a pint of water.
Method. — Boil the sugar and water to thin syrup, pour it, quite
boiling, over the caraway seeds, let it cool slightly, and add the
brandy. When quite cold pour the wdiole into a bottle, cork securely,
allow it to stand for 10 days, then strain into small bottles, cork them
tightly, and store for use.
psfpf
BEVERAGES
r r\
v
Moet & Chandon’s White Dry Sparkling Sillerv, Heidsieck & Co.’s Dry Monopole, Heidsieck
& Co.’s Monopole, Deutz & Geldermann's Gold Lack Extra Quality, Egidio Vitali, Seltzogene,
Benedictine, Filter, Royal Port, Chateau Lahte, Johannisberger, Berncastler Doctor Auslese,
Chambertin, Kummel, Emu Brand Burgundy, Kunrmel, Johannisberger, Vitali s Chianti, Bern-
castler Doctor Auslese, Absinthe, Fabrfque Chartreuse, Ginger Brandy, Dry Curapoa, Chauteau
Lafite, Emu Brand Cabernet, Burgundy, Californian Claret, Marasquin.
70 3
RECIPES FOR LIQUEURS
1497
3559. — CHERRY LIQUEUR.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of Morelia cherries, 1 lb. of black cherries, 4 a lb.
of loaf or good preserving sugar, 4 of an oz. of stick cinnamon, 1 2 cloves,
brandy.
Method. — Remove the stalks and stones from the cherries, crush
the stones and cherries, put them into a bottle with the sugar, cloves and
cinnamon, and pour over them the brandy. Cork closely, let it stand for
14 days, then strain into small bottles, cork securely, and store for use.
3560. — CITRONEN LIQUEUR.
Ingredients. — 4 lemons, 1 pint of spirits of wine, 1 pint of syrup,
No. 2599.
Method. — Remove the rinds of the lemons as thinly as possible,
pour over them the spirits of wine, cover and put aside for 10 days.
On the tenth day make the syrup as directed, add the strained juice of
4 lemons, and, when quite cold, strain and mix in the spirits of wine.
Bottle, cork securely, and store for use.
3561. — CLOVE LIQUEUR.
Ingredients. — 4 of a lb. of cloves, J of a lb. of coriander seed, \ a lb.
of loaf sugar, 2 dozen large black cherries, 1 quart of gin or brandy.
Method. — Remove the stalks and stones from the cherries, bruise
the stones, also the cloves and coriander seed. Put the whole into a
wide-necked bottle, add the sugar, pour in the brandy, and cover closely
for 1 month. When ready, strain the liquid into small bottles, cover
closely, and store for use.
3562. — CURACOA.
Ingredients. — 1 quart of brandy or rectified spirits of wine, 1 lb. of
loaf sugar, \ a pint of cold water, \ a pint of boiling water, 2 ozs. of
very thinly-pared orange rind.
Method. — Put the orange rinds into a jar, pour over them
the boiling water ; when cool, add the brandy. Cover closely, let
the liquid stand for 10 days in a moderately warm place, and stir
it 2 or 3 times daily. On the tenth day, boil the sugar and cold water
together until reduced to a thick syrup, let this become quite cold,
then add to it the liquid from the jar, previously strained through
flannel or fine muslin until clear. Pour into small bottles, cork tightly,
and store for use.
3563. — CURACOA. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 3 pints of brandy or rectified spirits of wine, the rinds
of 6 Seville oranges and 1 lemon, \ of an oz. of stick cinnamon, 1 of an oz.
1498 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
of coriander seed, \ a teaspoonful of saffron, 2 lbs. of loaf sugar,
2 pints of water.
Method. — Remove the rinds of the oranges and lemon as thinly as
possible, put them into a jar with the cinnamon, coriander seeds,
saffron and brandy, cover closely, and let the liquid stand in a warm
place for 6 weeks. At the end of this time boil the sugar and water
to a thick syrup ; when quite cold strain into it the liquid from the jar,
bottle, and cork securely.
3564. — FOUR-FRUIT LIQUEUR.
Ingredients. — f of a lb. of strawberries, J of a lb. of Kentish cherries,
i- a lb. of raspberries, \ a lb. of black currants, loaf sugar, brandy.
Method. — Strip the fruit from the stalks, put it into a jar, stand the
latter in a saucepan of boiling water, and cook gently for 1 hour. Strain
the juice through a jelly-bag, being careful not to press the pulp, and
to each pint of strained juice and \ a pint of French brandy, 3 ozs. of
loaf sugar, and 'half the cherry kernels. Cover closely, let the liquor
stand for 3 days, then strain it into small bottles, and cork them securely.
3565. — HAWTHORN LIQUEUR.
Ingredients. — White hawthorn blossoms, good brandy.
Method. — Gather the blossoms on a dry day, put them into wide-
necked bottles, shaking, but not pressing, them down. Fill the bottles
with brandy, cork them securely, let them remain thus for 4 months,
then strain the liqueur into small bottles, and cork tightly. This
liqueur is used chiefly for flavouring creams, custards, etc.
3566. — NOYEAU, IMITATION OF.
Ingredients. — 3 ozs. of apricot, nectarine, or peach kernels, 1 lb. of
sugar-candy, 1 quart of French brandy.
Method. — Blanch the kernels, pound them in a mortar, or failing this,
chop them very finely. Put them into a wide-necked bottle or jar,
pour over them the brandy, and keep them in a warm place for 4 days,
shaking them frequently. Crush the sugar-candy to a fine powder, add
and stir occasionally until it is quite dissolved, then strain the liquid into
small bottles and cork them tightly. The noyeau may be used at
once, or it may be kept for some time in a cool, dry place.
3367.— NOYEAU, IMITATION OF. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 3 ozs. of bitter almonds, 2 ozs. of sweet almonds, 1 lb.
of loaf sugar, 1 quart of brandy or gin, 2 tablespoonfuls of honey.
Method. — Blanch the almonds, pound them well in a mortar, or chop
them very finely, put them into a clean wide-necked bottle or jar, pour
RECIPES FOR LIQUEURS
1499
into them the spirit, and cover closely. Keep the jar in a moderately „
cool place for 3 days, shaking frequently, then add the honey and
sugar, and stir occasionally until they are dissolved. Strain through
very fine muslin into small bottles, and cork them securely.
3568. — NOYEAU, IMITATION OF. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 3 pints of French brandy, a pint of boiling milk,
1 i- lbs. of loaf sugar, 4 ozs. of bitter almonds, j of an oz. of stick cinnamon,
1 lemon.
Method. — Remove the rind of the lemon as thinly as possible, put it
into a wide-necked bottle, add the sugar, cinnamon, almonds blanched,
and the juice of the lemon. Shake occasionally until the sugar is
dissolved, then add the milk, quite boiling, and when cold, add the
brandy and cover closely. Shake the bottle 3 or 4 times a day for 3
weeks, then strain into small bottles, cork securely, and store for use.
3569. — ORANGE LIQUEUR.
Ingredients. — 1 Seville orange, 4 cloves, a pinch of saffron, ij pints of
gin or rectified spirits of wine, 1 lb. of loaf sugar, \ a pint of water.
Method. — Stick the cloves into the orange, put it into a jar, add the
spirit, cover closely so as to completely exclude the air, and let it
remain thus for 1 month. At the end of this time boil the sugar and
water together to a thick syrup ; when cool, mix it with the gin, etc.,
and cover closely for another month. When ready, strain the liquid
into small bottles, cork securely, and store for use.
357°. — ORANGE LIQUEUR. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — The peel of 3 Seville oranges ij pints of gin or rectified
spirits of wine, 1 lb. of loaf sugar, \ of a pint of water.
Method. — Remove the rinds of the oranges in fine strips, and put
them into a wide-necked bottle or jar, with the saffron and gin. Boil
the sugar and water to a thick syrup, when cool add it to the contents
of the bottle. Cover closely, and let it remain in a moderately warm
place for a month. Then strain into small bottles, cork securely, and
store for use.
3571.— RASPBERRY LIQUEUR.
Ingredients. — 1 pint of ripe raspberries, 1 quart of brandy, gin, or
rectified spirits of wine, 1 lb. of loaf sugar, J- a pint of vrater.
Method. — P uc the raspberries into a wide-necked bottle, pour over
them the spirit, cover closely, and let the liquid stand for 1 month,
shaking the bottle daily. When ready, boil the sugar and water to
a thick syrup, add the liquid from the raspberries, previously strained
until quite clear, and bottle for use.
1500
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
3572. - RATAFIA.
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of cherry kernels, preferably those taken from
Morelia cherries, 1 oz. of apricot or peach kernels, 1 bottle of good brandy,
\ a lb. of sugar-candy, | of a pint of cold water.
Method. — Pound the kernels until smooth, moistening them from
time to time with a few drops of brandy. Put them with the remainder
of the brandy into a wide-necked bottle, cover closely, and shake 2
or 3 times daily for 6 weeks. Strain the liquor first through fine muslin
and afterwards through filtering paper, add to it the sugar-candy
finely powdered and dissolved in cold water, bottle, cork tightly, and
store for use.
3573. — STRAWBERRY LIQUEUR.
Ingredients. — 6 lbs. of ripe strawberries, 2 lbs. of sugar-candy, good
brandy.
Method. — Half fill wide-necked glass bottles with strawberries, put
an equal portion of finely-crushed sugar-candy into each, and fdl them
with brandy. Cork tightly, allow them to stand in a warm place for
6 weeks, then strain the liquid into small bottles, cork securely, and
store for use.
3574- — VANILLA LIQUEUR.
Ingredients. — 2 Vanilla pods, 3 pints of brandy or gin, 1 lb. of loaf
sugar, 1 pint of water.
Method. — Break the pods into short lengths, put them into the spirit,
cork closely, and let it infuse for 14 days. On the last day boil the sugar
and water to a thick syrup, strain the spirit into it, and when quite cold
bottle for use.
Cups
3575. — BACCHUS CUP.
Ingredients. — \ a bottle of champagne, \ a pint of sherry, ■§• of a pint
of brandy, 1 liqueur glass of noyeau, 1 tablespoonful of castor sugar,
1 bottle of seltzer or soda water, a few balm leave's, ice.
Method. — Put the champagne, sherry, brandy, noyeau, sugar and
balm leaves into a jug, let it stand for a few minutes, then add a few
pieces of ice and the mineral water, and serve at once.
3576. — BADMINTON CUP.
Ingredients. — 1 bottle of red Burgundy, 2 bottles of seltzer water,
the rind of 1 orange, the juice of 2 oranges, a few thin slices of cucumber,
a dessertspoonful of castor sugar, 1 wineglassful of Curafoa.
RECIPES FOR CUPS
1501
Method. — Place all these ingredients, except the seltzer water, in a
large jug imbedded in ice for at least 1 hour, keeping the jug covered.
When ready to serve, strain into a glass jug, add a few fresh slices of
cucumber, and the seltzer water.
3577. — BURGUNDY CUP.
Ingredients. — 1 bottle of Burgundy, \ a bottle of port, 2 bottles of
soda water, 1 liqueur glass of Chartreuse, the juice of 2 oranges, the
juice of 1 lemon, a few thin slices of cucumber, 1 or 2 sprigs of fresh
lemon thyme, 1 tablespoonful of castor sugar.
Method. — Put all the ingredients, except the port wine, into a large
glass jug, surround it with rough pieces of ice, cover closely, and let it
remain thus for 1 hour. Just before serving add the port wine.
3578. — CHAMPAGNE CUP.
Ingredients. — 1 bottle of champagne, 1 liqueur glass of brandy, 2 bottles
of seltzer or soda water, \ a teaspoonful of Maraschino, a few fine strips
of lemon peel.
Method. — When the time permits it is much better to ice the liquor
which forms the basis of a “ cooling cup ” than to reduce the tempera-
ture by adding crushed ice. Place the. champagne and seltzer water
in a deep vessel, surround them with ice, cover them with a wet woollen
cloth, and let them remain for 1 hour. When ready to serve, put the
strips of lemon rind into a large glass jug, add the Maraschino and
liqueur brandy, pour in the soda water and serve at once. If liked,
a teaspoonful of castor sugar may be added, but it should be stirred in
gradually, otherwise the wine may overflow.
3579. — CHAMPAGNE CUP, PARISIAN.
Ingredients. — 1 bottle of champagne, 2 bottles of seltzer water,
1 tablespoonful of Swiss absinthe, 1 dessertspoonful of castor sugar,
a few thin slices of cucumber, 2 or 3 sprigs of verbena, when pr curable.
Method. — Cool the champagne and seltzer water as directed in the
preceding recipe. Place the rest of the ingredients in a large glass jug,
and when ready to serve add the iced champagne and seltzer water.
3580. — CLARET CUP.
Ingredients. — 1 bottle of claret, 1 wineglassful of shernq 1 liqueur
glass of brandy, 1 liqueur glass of noyeau, 1 liqueur glass of Maraschino,
the thin rind of 1 lemon, 2 or 3 sprigs of balm, borage or verbena when
procurable, castor sugar to taste, 1 large bottle of seltzer or soda water.
Method. — Put the claret, lemon rind, and 1 or 2 tablespoonfuls of
castor sugar into a large jug, cover, and let it stand imbedded in ice
for 1 hour. Add the rest of the ingredients, and serve. A few strips
of cucumber peel may be used instead of balm, borage or verbena.
1502
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
3581. — CLARET CUP. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 1 bottle of claret, 1 bottle of soda water, 2 glasses of
Cura5oa, 1 dessertspoonful of castor sugar, or to taste, a few thin strips
of lemon rind, a few thin strips of cucumber rind.
Method. — Put the claret into a glass jug, add the lemon rind and the
cucumber rind, cover, and let the jug stand embedded in ce for 1 hour.
Before serving, add the Curatjoa and the soda water, and sweeten to
taste.
3582. — CIDER CUP.
Ingredients. — 1 bottle of cider, 1 bottle of soda water, 1 liqueur glass
of brandy, a few thin strips of cucumber rind, a few thin strips of
lemon rind, a dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, a dessertspoonful of
castor sugar, or to taste.
Method. — Surround the cider and soda water with rough ice, and let
them cool for \ an hour. Put the brandy, cucumber and lemon rind,
lemon-juice and sugar into a large jug, add the iced cider and soda
water, and serve at once.
3583. — HOCK CUP.
Ingredients. — 1 bottle of hock, 1 liqueur glass of old brandy, \ a
liqueur glass of Cura^oa or Benedictine, 2 bottles of seltzer or soda
water, a few strips of lemon peel, a little borage.
Method. — Stand the wine, seltzer or soda water in a deep vessel,
surround them with rough ice and let them remain for an hour. Have
the rest of the ingredients ready, in a glass jug, pour in the wine, add
the mineral water, and serve at once.
3584. — HOCK CUP. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 1 bottle of hock, 1 bottle of seltzer or soda water, 1
glass of Curafoa, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, a few fine strips of
lemon rind ; a few fine strips of cucumber rind, a teaspoonful of castor
sugar, or to taste.
Method. — Put all these ingredients, except the mineral water, into a
glass jug, surround it with ice, cover closely, and let it remain forj-
an hour. Just before serving add the mineral water, which must
previously be iced.
3585. — LAGER BEER CUP.
Ingredients. — 1 bottle of lager beer (Bass’ ale may be substituted),
J- of a pint of water, 1 glass of sherry, the juice of 2 lemons and the fine
rind of 1, 1 tablespoonful of castor sugar, a few leaves of fresh mint,
a pinch of grated nutmeg, crushed ice.
RECIPES FOR CUPS
1503
Method. — Remove the lemon rind in thin, fine strips, put them into
a jug, add the water, sherry, lemon-juice, sugar, mint and nutmeg,
cover and let the liquid stand for 20 minutes. Strain into a glass jug,
add a few pieces of ice and the lager beer, then serve.
3586. — LIQUEUR CUP.
Ingrel ents. — 1 pint of claret ; 1 pint of water, 1 tablespoonful of
Maraschino, r tablespoonful of kirsch, 1 orange cut in thin slices, the
juice of 2 oranges, the juice of 3 lemons, 1 tablespoonful of castor sugar,
broken ice.
Method. — Strain the orange and lemon-juice into a glass jug, and add
the rest of the ingredients. Break the ice into small pieces, and . put
it into the cup just before serving.
3587. — LOVING CUP.
Ingredients. — 1 bottle of champagne, \ a bottle of Madeira, \ of a pint
of French brandy, i-J- pints of water, of a lb. of loaf sugar, 2 lemons,
a few leaves of balm, 2 or 3 sprigs of borage.
Method. — Rub the peel off one lemon with some lumps of sugar, then
remove every particle of pith, also the rind and pith of the other lemon,
and slice them thinly. Put the balm, borage, the sliced lemons and
all the sugar into a jug, add the water, Madeira and brandy, cover
surround with ice, and let the mixture remain thus for about 1 hour.
Also surround the champagne with ice, and add it to the rest of the
ingredients when ready to serve.
3588. — MOSELLE CUP.
Ingredients. — 1 bottle of Moselle, 2 glasses of Curagoa, 1 bottle of seltzer
or soda water, the juice and thin rind of 1 lemon, a few thin slices of
cucumber, 1 tablespoonful of castor sugar, or to taste, crushed ice.
Method. — Put the lemon rind and lemon-juice, the sugar, cucumber,
Curagoa and wine into a jug, let it stand covered for 15 or 20 minutes,
then add the mineral water and a little crushed ice, and serve at once.
3589. — SAUTERNE CUP.
Ingredients. — 1 quart bottle of Sauterne, 1 pint bottle of Apollinaris,
1 wineglassful of brandy, 1 wineglassful of Curagoa, the juice of
1 lemon, 1 lemon thinly sliced, 1 orange thinly sliced, 2 pieces of cucum-
ber rind, a few small sprigs of mint, crushed ice.
Method. —Put all the above-mentioned ingredients, except the mint
and ice, into a large glass jug, surround it with ice, and let it stand for
1 hour. Serve with small sprigs of mint floating on the top. If liked,
a little castor sugar may be added, and, if more convenient, the cup
may be cooled by adding 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of crushed ice, instead
of surrounding it with ice.
1504
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
3590.— WINE CUP.
Ingredients. — x pint of champagne (iced), 1 pint of good claret,
1 pint of Apollinaris, 1 wineglassful of brandy, 1 wineglassful of Curaijoa,
1 orange sliced, 1 lemon sliced, 2 pieces of cucumber rind, green mint, ice.
Method. — Put all these ingredients into a large glass jug, adding 2
or 3 tablespoonfuls of crushed ice. If liked, a little castor sugar
may be added. The cup is served with small sprigs of mint floating
on its surface.
359i- — ZELTLINGER CUP.
Ingredients. — 1 bottle of Zeltlinger, x glass of sherry or brandy, 1
bottle of soda or seltzer water, 3 or 4 slices of fresh or preserved pine-
apple cut into sections, the juice and thin rind of 1 lemon, 1 dessert-
spoonful of castor sugar, or to taste, ice.
Method. — Strain the lemon- juice into a large glass jug, add the sugar,
lemon-rind, pineapple, wine, a few lumps of ice, and lastly the soda,
water. Serve at once.
Summer and Winter Drinks, etc.
3592. — BISHOP.
Ingredients. — 1 bottle of port or sherry, 2 lemons, 2 ozs. of loaf sugar,
1 tumbler of water, spice to taste.
Method. — Stick 1 lemon with cloves and roast or bake it, boil the spice
in the water, boil up the wine, take off some of the spirit with a lighted
paper, add the water and the roasted lemon, and let the preparation
stand near the fire for a few minutes. Rub the sugar on the rind of
the other lemon, put it into a bowl, strain, and add half the juice of the
lemon, pour in the wine and serve as hot as possible.
3593. — LEMONADE.
Ingredients. — \ a pint of cold water, the juice of 1 lemon, J of a tea-
spoonful of carbonate of soda, castor sugar to taste.
Method. — Strain the lemon- juice into the water, sweeten to taste,
then stir in the carbonate of soda and drink while the mixture is in an
effervescing state.
3594- — LEMONADE.
Ingredients. — 1 oz. of tartaric acid, 4 ozs. of castor sugar, fine 1 di'achm
of essence of lemon.
Method. — Mix these ingredients well together, spread them on a plate,
stir and turn over repeatedly until thoroughly dry. Divide into 20
equal portions, wrap them carefully in separate papers, and store for use
in an air-tight tin. Each portion is sufficient for 1 glass of lemonade.
RECIPES FOR SUMMER DRINKS, ETC. 1505
3595- — LEMONADE, EGG.
Ingredients. — 1 egg, 1 dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, 1 teaspoonful
of castor sugar, or to taste, nutmeg, cold water, ice.
Method. — Break the egg into a glass, beat it slightly, then add the
lemon-juice, sugar, 1 tablespoonful of crushed ice and a little cold
water. Shake well until sufficiently cooled, then strain into another
glass, fill up with iced water, sprinkle a little nutmeg on the top, and
serve.
3596. — LEMONADE, FRUIT.
Ingredients. — The juice of 1 lemon, 6 fine strawberries or raspberries,
castor sugar to taste, cold water ice.
Method. — Crush the fruit well, add 1 teaspoonful of castor sugar,
small or otherwise according to taste, the lemon-juice, a little cold
water, and strain into a tumbler. Add a little crushed ice, fill up with
cold water, and serve.
3597. — MAY DRINK.
Ingredients. — 1 bottle of hock or other white wine, J- a pint of water,
1 or 2 tablespoonfuls of castor sugar, the juice and thin rind of 1 lemon,
a small handful of black currant leaves, a few sprigs of woodruff,
crushed ice.
Method. — Put the sugar, lemon rind and lemon- juice, black currant
leaves and woodruff into a jug. add the water and wine, and let it stand
covered and surrounded with ice for at least i an hour. Strain into a
glass jug, add a few sprigs of woodruff, then serve.
3598. — MULLED ALE.
Ingredients. — 1 quart of good ale, 1 glass of rum or brandy, 1 table-
spoonful of castor sugar, a pinch of ground cloves, a pinch of grated
nutmeg, a good pinch of ground ginger.
Method. — Put the ale, sugar, cloves, nutmeg, and ginger into an ale
warmer or stewpan, and bring nearly to boiling point. Add the
brandy and more sugar and flavouring if necessary, and serve at once.
3599. - MULLED CLARET.
Ingredient. — 1 pint of claret, \ a pint of boiling water, sugar, nutmeg
and cinnamon to taste.
Method. — Heat the claret nearly to boiling point, add the boiling
water, sugar, nutmeg and cinnamon to taste, and serve hot. Any kind
of wine may be mulled, but port and claret are those usually selected
for the purpose.
1506
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
3600. — NEGUS.
Ingredients. — \ a pint of port wine, | a pint of boiling water, 2 or 3
thin slices of lemon, sugar and nutmeg to taste.
Method. — Heat the wine in a stewpan, but do not allow it to boil.
Put the slices of lemon, a pinch of nutmeg, and 4 or 5 lumps of sugar
into a jug, pour in the boiling water, stir gently until the sugar is
dissolved, then add the hot wine and serve at once.
3601. — ORANGEADE.
Ingredients. — The juice of 15 oranges, the rind of 3 oranges, 2 quarts
of water, f- of a lb. of loaf sugar, crushed ice.
Method. — Remove the peel of 3 oranges as thinly as possible, add it
and the sugar to 1 pint of water, then simmer gently for 20 minutes.
Strain the orange-juice into a glass jug, and add the remaining 3 pints
of water. As soon as the syrup is quite cold strain it into the jug,
add a handful of crushed ice, and serve at once.
3602. PINEAPPLE SHERBET.
Ingredients. — 1 pineapple, either fresh or preserved, 2 quarts of
water, the juice of 4 lemons, ice, sugar to taste.
Method. — Cut the pineapple into slices, and chop it coarsely. Pour
over it the cold water, add the lemon-juice, sweeten to taste, and strain
into a large jug. Just before serving add a few pieces of ice.
3603. — PUNCH.
Ingredients. — \ a pint of brandy, \ a pint of rum, 1 pint of boiling
water, 2 or 3 ozs. of loaf sugar, 1 large lemon, a pinch of ground cinna-
mon, a pinch of grated nutmeg.
Method. — Remove the rind of the lemon by rubbing it with some
of the sugar. Put the whole of the sugar, the cinnamon, cloves, brandy,
rum and boiling water into a stewpan, heat gently by the side of the
fire, but do not let it approach boiling point. Strain the lemon-juice
into a punch bowl, add the hot liquid, and serve at once.
Punch is a beverage made of various spirituous liquors or wine, hot water, the acid juice of fruits,
and sugar. It is more intoxicating in its effects than other alcoholic beverages, especially so when
composed, as is usually the case, of several alcoholic liquids. Moreover, the strength of the spirit being
partially disguised by the acid, sugar and flavouring ingredients, not only makes this beverage more
palatable than it would otherwise be, but it probably causes the partakers thereof to unconsciously
imbibe more alcohol than would be agreeable to them in another form. Punch was almost universally
drunk among the middle classes until the latter half of the nineteenth century, but it has now almost
disappeared. There are many different varieties ; in the composition of “ Regent’s Punch,” cham-
pagne, brandy and veritable Martinique are required; “Norfolk Punch ” requires Seville oranges;
“ Milk Punch” maybe extemporised by adding a little hot milk to lemonade, and then straining it
through a jelly-bag. Then there are “ Wine Punch,” “ Tea Punch,” and “ French Punch,” made
with lemons, spirits, tea and wine in fantastic proportions. But of all the compounds of these
materials, perhaps for a summer drink, the North- American “ mint julep ” is the most inviting. Captain
Marryat gives the following recipe for its preparation : “ Put into a tumbler about a dozen sprigs of the
tender shoots of mint ; upon them put a spoonful of white sugar, and equal proportions of peach and
common brandy, so as to fill up one-third, or, perhaps, a little less ; then take rasped or pounded ice,
and fill up the tumbler. Epicures rub the lips of the tumbler with a piece of fresh pineapple, and the
tumbler itself is very often encrusted outside with stalactites of ice. As the ice melts, you drink.”
The Virginians, says Captain Marryat, claim the merit of having invented this superb compound, but,
from a passage in the Comus of Milton, he claims it for his own country.
RECIPES FOR SUMMER DRINKS, ETC.
1507
3604. — PUNCH. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 1 quart of very old ale, 1 pint of boiling water, J of a pint
of rum, \ of a pint of whisky, J of a pint of gin, 1 lemon thinly sliced,
sugar to taste, a pinch of ground cinnamon, a pinch of ground cloves,
a pinch of grated nutmeg.
Method. — Put all these ingredients into a large stewpan, and bring
nearly to boiling point. Strain into a punch bowl, add a few fresh thin
slices of lemon, and serve.
3605.— PUNCH, COLD.
Ingredients. — 1 bottle of rum, 2 small glasses of Curagoa, 1 bottle of
white wine, % a lb. of powdered sugar, 1 large lemon, i- a pint of water,
ice.
Method. — Put the sugar and lemon-rind into a bowl with the water ;
when dissolved add the spirits, the wine and the juice of the lemon.
Break some ice into the bowl before serving.
3606.— SHANDY GAFF.
Ingredients. — Equal quantities of good ale and ginger beer, with a dash
of liqueur if liked, ice.
Method. — Empty the bottles into a jug in which some lumps of ice
have been broken, add the liqueur and serve when quite cold.
3607.— SHERRY COBBLER.
Ingredients. — \ a pint of sherry, 1 bottle of soda water, 1 glass of
Cura$oa, 1 tablespoonful of castor sugar, crushed ice.
Method. — Dissolve the sugar in the sherry, and add the liqueur and
soda. Put the preparation into tumblers ; to each add a few small
pieces of ice, and serve. Beverages of this description are usually
drunk through straws, but it is merely a matter of taste.
3608.— SLOE GIN.
Ingredients. — Sloes, gin, barley sugar, noyeau or essence of almonds.
Method. — Half fill clean, dry wine bottles with the fruit. Add to
each 1 oz. of crushed barley sugar, a little noyeau, or 2 or 3 drops of
essence of almonds. Fill the bottles with good unsweetened gin, cork
them securely, and allow them to remain in a moderately warm place
for 3 months. At the end of this time strain the liqueur through fine
muslin or filtering paper until quite clear, then bottle it, cork securely
and store for use.
1508 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
3609. — SLOE GIN. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — Sloes, good unsweetened gin, loaf sugar.
Method. — Fill a wide-necked bottle with sloes, pour over them as
much gin as the bottle will hold, then cork securely, and allow the
ingredients to stand for 10 days. Strain off the liquid, remove the
fruit, replace with fresh sloes, and pour on the gin, adding more spirit
if necessary. Let it stand for 10 days longer, then strain, add from
4 to 6 ozs. of sugar to each pint of liqueur, and bottle for use.
3610. — SODA WATER.
Soda Water as known in every-day life is a misnomer, as the fluid
now contains really no soda, only carbonic acid gas. For medicinal
purposes, however, the chemist still manufactures a water containing
the amount of soda prescribed by the official Pharmacopoeia Britannica.
But for ordinary drinking purposes a pure water is made to absorb
carbonic acid gas, which gives it effervescence, a pleasantly piquant
flavour, and a slightly laxative effect. Various means are adopted
to permeate the water with the gas. For domestic purposes the gaso-
gene is generally used. This takes the form of two glass globes covered
with netting and connected by a metal neck, screwing in two parts,
and provided with a tap. The lower globe is partly filled with chemi-
cals, usually tartaric acid and bicarbonate, while the upper is filled
with water. The water drips through a pipe into the lower globe,
and on coming into contact with the chemicals, carbonic acid gas is
gradually formed, and this is steadily taken up by the water as it falls
slowly downwards. This water is removed by syphon action by means
of the tap. Of recent years several other aerating devices have been
manufactured for domestic purposes, and in which carbonic acid is
used in a gaseous form. Another development is the provision of
carbonic acid in liquid form, imprisoned in metallic capsules ; this
liquid carbonic acid is passed into a bottle of water, wine, or other fluid
through a patent tap, and the pressure being reduced is quickly con-
verted into gas, aerating the fluid. Commercially, soda water is manu-
factured by admitting carbonic acid gas into a copper globe, into which
water is run, and the whole thoroughly agitated. If desired, a dose of
soda or other salts, such as seltzer, lithia, seidlitz, etc., may be added ;
or, on drawing off the soda water from the agitator, lemonade or
syrups can be mixed with it. Syrups consist of fairly thick boiled
sugar and water, to which fruit juice or essence is added. A good
recipe for lemonade is : sugar, 14 lbs. ; tartaric acid, 1 oz. ; citric acid,
1 Is- ozs. ; essence of lemon, 2 drachms, mixed with 1 gallon of water
aerated with carbonic acid gas. This is sufficient for about 12 dozen
bottles. Carbonic acid gas is supplied in heavy steel tubes, which are
fitted with valve taps, to enable the gas to be admitted to any form
of aerating machine.
RECIPES FOR SUMMER DRINKS, ETC. 1509
3611. — SUMMER BEVERAGE.
Ingredients. — Tea, lemon, sugar, liqueur, ice.
Method. — Make some moderately-strong tea, let it stand for 5 minutes,
then strain it into a jug. Sweeten to taste, add a lemon thinly sliced,
cover, and let it stand until quite cold. Just before serving add a
glass of any kind of liqueur, and a heaped tablespoonful of crushed
ice.
3612. — WHISKY PUNCH.
Ingredients. — 1 bottle of Scotch whisky, 1 quart of boiling water,
J a lb. of loaf sugar, the juice and finely pared rinds of 3 lemons.
Method. — Pour the boiling water over the sugar, lemon rinds and juice,
let it remain until cold, then strain into a punch bowl. Add the whisky,
place the bowl in a large vessel, surround it with ice, cover, and let it
stand thus for at least 1 hour before serving.
3613. — CURRANT WATER.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of red currants, \ a lb. of raspberries, 1 lb. of castor
sugar, 2 -3,- pints of cold water.
Method. — Remove the stalks, crush the fruit well with a wooden spoon,
then put it into a preserving pan with a pint of water, and the
sugar. Stir occasionally until it reaches boiling point, then strain
through muslin or a fine hair sieve. Dissolve the rest of the sugar in a
little cold water, boil to a syrup, add it to the fruit syrup, and stir in
the remainder of the water. Allow it to stand until quite cold, then
serve.
3614. — PINEAPPLE WATER.
Ingredients. — 1 pineapple, either fresh or preserved, 1 lb. of loaf
sugar, 3 pints of water, the juice of 2 lemons.
Method. — Slice the pineapple, cut it into small dice, or chop it coarsely.
Boil the sugar and 1 pint of water to a syrup, pour it over the prepared
pineapple, strain into it the lemon-juice, and cover closely. When quite
cold, add the remaining 2 pints of water, and serve.
3615. — STRAWBERRY WATER.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of ripe strawberries, 3 pints of cold water, \ a lb.
of castor sugar, the juice of 1 lemon.
Method. — Remove the stalks, crush the fruit with a wooden spoon,
sprinkle over the sugar, and let it stand for 3 or 4 hours. Pass the pulp
through a fine hair sieve, add to it the lemon-juice and water, let it
stand 2 or 3 hours, stirring frequently, then strain and use.
1510 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
American Drinks
Americans, although great consumers of iced water at meals, are very
fond of composite drinks, mixed immediately before they are taken.
Broadly speaking, these drinks are of two kinds : ( i ) the cocktails, or
alcoholic fancy beverages, and (2) the soda drinks, flavoured with fruit
syrups or semi-medicinal decoctions. The first class are chiefly remark-
able for the many ingredients which enter into their composition,
the use of various fresh fruits in addition to lemons and oranges, and
the extraordinary names bestowed on many of these beverages. Recipes
for a few of the most popular, and apparently permanent, drinks, are
given. The soda drinks consist of fruit syrups (such as the French
syrups or our raspberry vinegar), which are diluted with iced soda
water. Sometimes instead of sweet syrups, druggists’ decoctions
containing phosphates or extracts of medicinal herbs are used. Syrups,
if properly made, strongly flavoured, and added sparingly to plain
aerated water (so that it should not be too sweet), make palatable,
cooling, and thirst-quenching beverages. Syrups may be easily bought,
and now manufacturers place on the market a great number of essences
which only require diluting with soda water.
3616. — BRAIN DUSTER.
Ingredients. — J a wineglassful of vermouth, J a wineglassful of ab-
sinthe, J of a teaspoonful of sugar, crushed ice, a little seltzer.
Method. — Put the vermouth, absinthe and sugar into a glass, add
a few small pieces of ice, and shake well. Strain into a small glass,
add just a little seltzer water, and serve.
3617. — BRANDY MINT JULEP.
Ingredients. — 1 wineglassful of brandy, 1 lump of sugar, 1 or 2 small
sprigs of fresh mint, 1 thin slice of orange, 1 thin slice of pineapple,
crushed ice.
Method. — Put the lump of sugar into a glass and dissolve it in a few
drops of cold water. Add the brandy, mint, and a little crushed ice.
On the top place a small piece of orange and a small piece of pineapple,
and serve.
Note. — Gin or whisky mint julep may be made by substituting these spirits
for the brandy.
3618. — GIN COCKTAIL.
Ingredients. — 1 wineglassful of good unsweetened gin, 10 drops of
rock candy syrup, 10 drops of orange bitters, a small piece of lemon-
peel, crushed ice.
RECIPES FOR AMERICAN DRINKS
1511
Method. — Half fill a tumbler with small pieces of ice, pour over it
the gin, add the syrup and bitters, then cover and shake well. Strain
into a small glass, place a small piece of lemon peel on the top, and
serve.
3619. — GIN RICKEY.
Ingredients.— 1 wineglassful of gin, 1 dessertspoonful of lemon or
lime-juice, seltzer water, ice.
Method. — Place a small block of ice at the bottom of a deep cham-
pagne glass, strain over it the lemon-juice, add the gin, fill up with
seltzer water, and serve.
Note. — Any other spirit may be used instead of gin, and would, of course,
give its name to the compound.
3620. — MANHATTAN.
Ingredients. — \ a wineglassful of vermouth, \ a wineglassful of whisky,
30 drops of green syrup, 10 drops of Angostura bitters, 6 drops of
Cura^oa, a little shaved ice, 1 small strip of lemon-peel.
Method. — Put all the ingredients except the lemon-rind into a large
tumbler, cover the top closely, shake well, and strain into a wineglass,
Place the strip of lemon-peel on the top, and serve.
3621. — MARTINI COCKTAIL.
Ingredients. — \ a wineglassful of good unsweetened gin, J a wine-
glassful of Italian vermouth, 6 drops of rock candy syrup, 12 drops of
orange bitters, 1 small piece of lemon-peel, crushed ice.
Method. — Half fill a tumbler with crushed ice, pour over it all the
liquids, shake well, then strain into a glass, and serve with a small
piece of lemon-peel floating on the surface.
3622. — MILK SHAKE.
Ingredients. — New milk, 1 egg, castor sugar to taste, ice, nutmeg.
Method. — Break the egg into a large glass, beat it slightly, add 1
tablespoonful of crushed ice, sugar to taste, and rather more than \ of a
pint of milk. Shake well, then strain into a smaller glass, sprinkle a
little nutmeg on the top, and serve.
3623. — PINEAPPLE JULEP.
Ingredients. — 1 pineapple, either fresh or preserved, 1 bottle of spark-
ling Moselle, 1 gill of gin, 1 gill of raspberry syrup, -} a gill of Maras-
chino, the juice of 2 oranges, 1 lb. of crushed ice.
Method. — Slice the pineapple rather thinly, and divide each slice into
8 sections. Put all the liquids into a glass jug or bowl, add the ice and
prepared pineapple, and serve.
1512
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
3624. — SARATOGA.
Ingredients. — 1 wineglass of old brandy, 20 drops of pine-apple syrup,
20 drops of Maraschino, 12 drops of Angostura bitters, £ a glass of
champagne, 2 or 3 ripe strawberries, shaved ice, lemon-peel.
Method. — Nearly fill a large tumbler with shaved ice, and pour all the
liquids, except the champagne, over it. Shake well, strain into another
tumbler in which the strawberries and lemon-peel have been placed,
add the champagne, and serve at once.
3625. — SHERRY COBBLER.
Ingredients. — -j- of a pint of sherry, 1 teaspoonful of orange-juice, 1
teaspoonful of fine white sugar, crushed ice.
Method. — Half fill a large tumbler with ice, pour over it the sherry
and orange-juice, cover, and shake well. Strain into another tumbler
containing the sugar, stir well, and serve with straws.
3626. — SHERRY EGG FLIP.
Ingredients. — 1 glass of sherry, 1 egg, 1 teaspoonful of castor sugar,
or to taste, nutmeg, crushed Ue.
Method. — Beat the egg well, add the sugar, sherry, and a little crushed
ice, shake well until sufficiently cooled, then strain into a small glass,
and serve.
Note. — Port wine or any spirit may replace the sherry, and the liquor used
would, of course, give its name to the “ flip.”
3627. — SILVER DREAM.
Ingredients. — 1 wineglassful of gin, the white of 1 egg, the juice of
\ a lemon, 1 teaspoonful of sugar, crushed ice, a little seltzer water.
Method. — Beat the white of egg well, add to it the gin, lemon-juice
sugar, and 1 tablespoonful of crushed ice. Shake well until sufficiently
cooled, then strain into a deep champagne glass, fill up with seltzer
water, and serve.
3628. — SILVER FIZZ.
Ingredients. — 1 wineglass of gin, the juice of \ a lemon, the white of
1 egg, x teaspoonful of icing sugar, a pinch of carbonate of soda, pounded
ice.
Method. — Fill a tumbler 3 parts full with pounded ice, pour over
this the gin and lemon-juice, then add the white of egg beaten to a stiff
froth. Shake well, then strain into another tumbler containing the
icing sugar, and carbonate of soda, and serve at once.
RECIPES FOR AMERICAN DRINKS
1513
3629. — SILVER SOUR.
Ingredients. — 1 dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, 1 wineglassfial of
unsweetened gin, the white of 1 egg, 1 teaspoonful of castor sugar,
crushed ice.
Method. — Put the white of an egg into a lumbler, beat it slightly,
then add the lemon-juice, gin, sugar and a heaped tablespoonful of
crushed ice. Cover and shake well until sufficiently cooled, then
strain into a small glass, and serve.
3630. SLOE GIN COCKTAIL.
Ingredients. — \ a wineglassful of sloe gin, §• a wineglassful of good
unsweetened gin, 10 drops of orange bitters, a small piece of lemon-peel,
crushed ice.
Method. — Half fill a tumbler with broken ice, pour over it the sloe
gin, gin and bitters, cover the top of the glass, and shake it well. When
sufficiently cooled strain it into a small glass, and serve with a small
piece of lemon-peel floating on the top.
3631. — SNOW BALL.
Ingredients. — 1 bottle of ginger ale, 1 wineglassful of brandy, 1 egg,
1 teaspoonful of castor sugar, crushed ice.
Method. — Break the egg into a glass, beat it well, then add the brandy
and sugar, and strain into a large glass. Add a tablespoonful of crushed
ice and the ginger ale, stir well, and serve.
3632. — STRAWBERRY FIZZ.
Ingredients. — 3 or 4 fine strawberries, 3 slices of lemon, 1 teaspoonful
of castor sugar, 1 wineglassful of unsweetened gin, crushed ice, Johannis
or other mineral water.
Method. — Mix together and crush well the strawberries, lemon and
sugar, add the gin and a heaped tablespoonful of broken ice, shake until
sufficiently cooled, then strain into a champagne glass. Fill the glass
with mineral water, and serve at once.
3633. — SUNRISE.
Ingredients. — § of a wineglass of sherry, J of a wineglass of brandy,
30 drops of vanilla syrup, 10 drops of Angostura bitters, pounded ice.
a small piece of lemon-peel.
Method. — Half fill a tumbler with pounded ice, pour over it all the
liquids, and shake well. Strain into another tumbler, add the lemon-
peel, and serve.
i5i4
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
3634. — WHISKY COCKTAIL.
Ingredients. — 1 wineglassful of whisky, 15 drops of rock candy syrup,
10 drops of Angostura bitters, a small piece of lemon-peel, crushed ice.
Method. — Half fill a tumbler with crushed ice, pour over it the whisky,
syrup and bitters, cover and shake well, then strain into a small glass.
Place a very small piece of lemon-peel on the top, and serve.
Note. — Brandy cocktail may be made by substituting a wineglassful of good
French brandy for the whisky.
3635. — WHISKY PUNCH.
Ingredients.— 1 wineglassful of whisky, 1 dessertspoonful of lemon-
juice, 1 teaspoonful of castor sugar, 1 thin slice of orange, 1 thin small
piece of pineapple, crushed ice.
Method. — Put a heaped tablespoonful of crushed ice into a glass,
pour over it the whisky and lemon- juice, add the sugar, and shake
well until sufficiently cooled. Strain into a small glass, and serve with
the orange and pineapple floating on the surface.
3636. — WHISKY SOUR.
Ingredients. — 1 dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, 1 dessertspoonful of
rock, candy syrup, 1 wineglassful of whisky, 1 thin slice of orange, 1 thin
small piece of pineapple, crushed ice.
Method. — Strain the lemon- juice into a tumbler, add the syrup, whisky,
and a heaped tablespoonful of crushed ice, and shake well. Strain
into a small glass, and serve with the orange and pineapple floating
on the top.
Note. — Brandy or any other spirit may be substituted for the whisky, the
name being changed accordingly.
3637. — YANKEE INVIGORATOR.
Ingredients. — 4 °f a pint °f strong, clear, cold coffee, J a glass of good
port wine, 1 liqueur glass of old brandy, 1 egg, sugar to taste, ice.
Method. — Break the egg into a large glass, beat it well, then add the
coffee, wine and brandy, and sweeten to taste. Put in a heaped table-
spoonful of crushed ice, shake well, then strain into a smaller glass,
and serve.
CHAFING DISH AND
CASSEROLE COOKERY
CHAPTER L
The Chafing Dish.
The Chafing Dish, which exemplifies the earliest known method of
cooking, has lately become very popular for cooking supper dishes,
for use in the sick room, and amongst bachelors and Bohemians. It
is a portable utensil, costing from £i to ^3, is usually made of silver
or electro-plated metal, and is placed upon and used at the table at
which the meal is to be served. Food can be either cooked, re-heated,
or kept hot in it, and one of the chief advantages of the Chafing Dish
is that the meal is served quite hot immediately the cooking is finished.
The Chafing Dish is really a species of bain marie or double boiler,
but the whole process of cooking may be performed in it without the
aid of any other utensil or appliance.
A Chafing Dish is composed of four parts : the spirit lamp ; the
frame or stand in which the lamp is set, and on top of which the
Chafing pan rests ; the hot water pan, which is provided with two
handles, and serves the same purpose as the lower part of the double
boiler ; and the blazer or pan in which the food is cooked.
The lamp is the most important part, and is furnished with either
a cotton or an asbestos wick. When the wick is of cotton, it is
regulated in the same manner as an ordinary lamp ; but when of
asbestos, the lamp is filled with porous stone, and covered with wire
netting, like the old-fashioned spirit lamp, and the flame is regulated
by a couple of slides which cover the netting and are made to shut
off and let on the flame at will. Spirit is the fuel commonly used,
but only the very best should be purchased, as the cheaper kinds are
often very troublesome, and sometimes dangerous. The lamp holds
about two gills of spirit, and that quantity will burn for about half
an hour.
The Chafing Dish should always rest upon a metal tray, for a slight
draught may cause the flame to flare outwards and soil, or even set
fire, to the table-cloth.
1515
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1516
All food cooked in the Chafing Dish has, of course, to be pre-
pared in the same manner as if it were to be cooked at the kitchen
range, and though many hostesses like to show their deftness in the
preparation of the food, the utensils and measures that are frequently
necessary for that purpose would so crowd a supper table that the
materials are best brought to hand ready for cooking, i.e. the lamp
fdled, eggs already beaten, oysters washed and drained, butter
measured out, etc.
Cooking by the aid of the hot-water pan is the distinctive feature
of Chafing Dish Cookery, and dishes like Creams, Sauces, and Rare-
bits, that need slow cooking, always require the use of this pan.
Frying and sauteing can, of course, be accomplished in the blazer of
the Chafing Dish without the aid of the hot water pan ; but those
methods of cooking are obviously not adaptable to the dining-room
where the Chafing Dish is mostly used.
The Casserole.
Casserole Cookery is the most wholesome of all methods of cooking.
The word “ Casserole ” is the French name for “ stew pan,” but en
casserole is now applied to all styles of cooking performed in stone
or fireproof earthenware vessels, and implies that the food is served
at the table in the vessel in which it has been cooked, a method that,
of course, ensures the meal being served quite hot. All styles of
cooking, and especially brazing, stewing, and boiling may be accom-
plished in casserole pots, and differently shaped vessels are sold for
each purpose. Fireproof casseroles made of brown earthenware are
the best, but there are many varieties of make. Some are of buff
earthenware, others are lined with white enamel.
The Casserole possesses many advantages over the ordinary iron
and copper cooking utensils, for the pots always look clean ; they
will impart no disagreeable flavour to the most delicate foods ; they
will not rust or tarnish, and if properly kept will not stain ; they
cook the food evenly and slowly, and consequently less fuel is re-
quired and the contents are not liable to burn. Moreover, they are
inexpensive, and with careful management will prove cheaper than
metal pots.
Chafing Dish Cookery
3638. — BROILED OYSTERS. (Fr. — Huitres frites.)
Ingredients. — 1 dozen large oysters, finely crushed shredded wheat
biscuits, 2 ozs. of butter, oiled butter, salt and pepper, lemons.
Method. — Remove the beards from the oysters, cut them in halves,
wipe and season with salt and pepper, and dip them in oiled butter.
CHAFING DISH AND CASSEROLE COOKERY 1517
Drain again, and roll them in the shredded wheat biscuits, finely
crushed. Heat up the butter in the chafing dish, when quite hot
drop in the crumbed oysters, cook and serve with quarters of lemon.
Time. — 5 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. to 2s. 6d. Sufficient for 3 persons.
Seasonable, September to April.
3639. — BUTTERED EGGS. (Fr. — Oeuf.s brouilles
au beurre.)
Ingredients. — 6 eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of milk or cream, i-|- ozs. of
butter, buttered toast.
Method. — Beat up the eggs and add the milk or cream, season to
taste. Melt the butter in the chafing dish, and, when hot, pour in
the eggs and stir quickly until the eggs commence to set. Have some
pieces of toast made, butter them, and place them on a hot dish, pile
the mixture upon it, and serve hot.
Time. — 5 or 6 minutes. Average Cost, is. 3d. to is. 6d. Sufficient for 3
or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.
3640. — CREAMED LOBSTER. (Fr.— Homard a la
Creme.)
Ingredients. — 1 medium-sized boiled lobster, 1 oz. of butter, 1 table-
spoonful of flour, 4 a pint of milk, salt, pepper, nutmeg, lemon juice,
cream, brown bread.
Method. — Pick the meat from the claws and body of the lobster, and
chop it rather small. Melt the butter in the chafing dish, stir in the
flour, cook a little without browning, then moisten with the milk, and
boil up whilst stirring. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Put
in the lobster mince, and let simmer whilst stirring for about 10 minutes.
Now add 1 teaspoonful of lemon juice and 2 tablespoonfuls of cream.
Re-heat, but do not let it boil again. The dish is then ready to serve,
and should be accompanied with thinly cut buttered brown bread.
Time. — 20 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. to 2s. 6d. Sufficient for 2 or 3
persons. Seasonable all the year.
3641. — CREAMED PEAS. (Fr. — Petits Pois a la
Creme.)
Ingredients. — 1 pint of cooked green peas, salt, green mint, 3 or 4
tablespoonfuls of cream, pepper, castor sugar, finely-chopped parsley,
butter.
Method. — Take the green peas (preserved ones may be used when
fresh peas are not obtainable), heat them in boiling water containing
salt and a sprig of green mint. Drain off the water and put the peas
into the chafing dish with the cream. Season with salt and pepper,
also a good pinch of castor sugar. Add a dessertspoonful of finely-
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1518
chopped parsley, and stir carefully over the spirit flame until the peas
and cream are thoroughly hot ; the cream must not be allowed to
boil. A little fresh butter may be added to the peas if liked.
Time. — 10 minutes. Average Cost, is. to is. 6d. Sufficient for 2 or
3 persons. Seasonable at any time.
3642. — CURRIED TOAST. (Fr.— Pain grille en Kari.)
Ingredients. — 1 sandwich loaf, curry or mulligatawny paste, and
anchovy or bloater paste.
Method. — Cut 4 slices from the sandwich loaf, not too thin, and
toast them in front of a clear fire ; trim off the crusts and butter
each slice ; then spread with a mixture composed of equal propor-
tions of curry or mulligatawny and anchovy or bloater paste. Cut
the prepared toast into fingers, place it in a hot chafing dish to heat
it : the toast is then ready to serve.
Time. — 10 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
3643. — DEVILLED LOBSTER. (Fr.— Homard a la
Diable.)
Ingredients. — 1 medium-sized lobster, Bechamel sauce, pepper, salt,
1 dessertspoonful of mustard, brandy, bread and butter.
Method. — Remove the meat from the lobster and chop it finely ; put
it in a chafing dish with enough Bechamel or other white sauce to
moisten, season with pepper and salt. Re-heat and add the mustard,
mixed with a little brandy or sherry. Have ready some rounds of
toasted bread, butter them, and spread them thickly with the hot
lobster mixture and serve.
Time. — 10 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. to 2s. 6d. Sufficient for 2 or 3
, persons. Seasonable all the year.
3644. — FRICASSEED OYSTERS. (Fr. — Fricasse aux
Huitres.)
Ingredients. — 1 dozen large oysters and their liquor, \ an oz. of butter,
\ an oz. of flour, 1 gill of milk, 1 egg, milk and cream.
Method. — Blanch the oysters, drain and beard them. Melt the butter
in a chafing dish, to this add the flour, stir for a few minutes, and
moisten with milk and the strained oyster liquor. Bring to the boil,
and simmer for ten minutes. Cut the oysters in halves, add them to
the sauce, let them get very hot together without boiling, then add
the beaten yolk of the egg and a little cream. Season to taste and
serve.
Time. — 25 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. to 2s. 6d. Sufficient for 2 per-
sons. Seasonable, September to April.
CHAFING DISH AND CASSEROLE COOKERY 1519
3645. — FRIED SCALLOPS. (Fr. — Escaloppes frites.)
Ingredients. — 4 or 5 fresh scallops, finely crushed shredded wheat
biscuits, 2 ozs. of butter, oiled butter, salt and pepper, parsley, lemon.
Method. — Cut the scallops in halves, wipe them, and season with salt
and pepper, then dip them in oiled butter. Drain again, and roll them
in the shredded wheat biscuit. Heat up the butter in the chafing dish,
when quite hot drop in the crumbed scallops, and fry to a golden
colour. Take up, drain, dish up and garnish with slices of lemon and
parsley, and serve hot.
Time. — 7 minutes. Average Cost, is. id. to is. 6d. Sufficient for 3
persons. Seasonable, January to June.
3646. — OYSTER OMELET. (Fr. — Omelette aux
Huitres.)
Ingredients. — 1 dozen oysters, 6 eggs, 1 tablespoonful of milk, 1 table-
spoonful of oyster liquor, salt, pepper, 1 oz. of butter.
Method. — Blanch the oysters in their own liquor, drain them and
remove the beards, and cut into small dice. Beat up the eggs in the
milk and oyster liquor, season to taste with salt and pepper, and add
the oysters. Melt the butter in a chafing dish, pour in the mixture,
and stir over a quick fire until the eggs begin to set. Fold over and
shape neatly (oval cushion shape), allow the omelet to take colour,
and serve.
Time. — 4 or 5 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. to 2s. 6d. Sufficient for 3
persons. Seasonable, September to April.
3647. — SALMON OMELET. (Fr. - — Omelette de
Saumon.)
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of salmon, 6 eggs, 1 tablespoonful of milk, 1 oz.
of butter, white sauce, salt and pepper.
Method. — Free the salmon from skin and bones and flake it finely ;
heat it up in just enough butter and white sauce to moisten. Season
with salt and pepper, and keep hot. Beat up the eggs with 1 table-
spoonful of milk ; melt the butter in the chafing dish, pour in the
egg mixture, and stir over a quick fire until the eggs begin to set.
When ready to fold, put in the hot salmon mixture, fold in the ends
and shape neatly. Serve hot.
Time. — 5 or 6 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. to is. pd. Sufficient for
3 persons. Seasonable, from February to October.
3648. — SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH OYSTERS.
(Fr. — Oeufs brouilles aux huitres.)
Ingredients. — 1 dozen oysters, 6 eggs, 1 oz. of fresh butter, 1 tea-
spoonful of anchovy paste, salt and pepper.
1520
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Mix the butter with the anchovy paste. Beat up the eggs,
and season with salt and pepper. Melt the anchovy butter in the
chafing dish, when hot pour in the eggs, stir lightly until the mixture
begins to thicken, then add quickly the oysters, previously bearded
and cut into halves or dice. Serve from the chafing dish with fingers
of toasted bread, buttered and lightly spread with anchovy paste.
Time. — io minutes. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. to 3s. Sufficient for 3 or 4
persons. Seasonable, from September to April.
3649. — SHRIVELLED OYSTERS. (Fr. — Huitres
Etouffes.)
Ingredients. — 1 dozen oysters and their liquor, \ an oz. of fresh butter,
salt, pepper, lemon juice and parsley.
Method. — Put the oyster liquor in the chafing dish over the lamp,
allow it to boil, and remove the scum from the surface. Add the
fresh butter, and put in the oysters, previously bearded. Season with
salt and pepper, a few drops of lemon juice and a little parsley. Cook
for 5 minutes, and serve plain or on toast.
Time. — s minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. to 2s. 6d. Sufficient for 2
persons. Seasonable, September to April.
3650. — STEWED CHICKEN WITH RICE.
(Fr. — Ragout de Poulet en Riz.)
Ingredients. — 1 boiled or roast chicken, 3 to 4 tablespoonfuls of white
sauce, 1 cupful of cooked rice, salt, pepper, grate of a nutmeg, white
stock.
Method. — Cut the remains of the chicken from bones and then into
large dice shapes. Put this into a chafing dish with the white sauce
and the cooked rice. Moisten further with a little white stock, cover
the dish and let it simmer gently for about 25 minutes, stirring
occasionally. Serve hot.
Time. — 25 minutes. Average Cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for 2 or 3 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
3651:. — WOODCOCK TOAST.
(Fr. — Pain grille a FEcossaise.)
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of chicken or duck livers, 2 small Gorgona
anchovies, -J- a teaspoonful of castor sugar, 1 oz. of butter, 3 yolks of
eggs, \ a gill of cream, teaspoonful of spiced pepper (Paprika or
Krona pepper), a pinch of salt.
Method. — Wash and clean the livers, removing carefully any gall
that may be left on. Drain them in a cloth, and pound in a mortar
until quite fine ; bone and skin the anchovies, and pound them to a
EARTHENWARE COOKING UTENSILS
ss
—
Green Milk Boiler, Milk Boiler, Maraboat, Coffee Jug, Coffee Pot, Sauce Pan, Cafetiere,
Covered Pipkin, Red Marmite, Red Marmite, Sauce Pan and Cover, Egg Poacher, Pie Dish and
Cover, Entree Dish and Cover, Pie Dish and Cover, Breakfast Dish, Pie Dish and Cover, Egg
Poacher, Egg Poacher, Frying Pan, Egg Poacher, Eared Dish, Ramakin Case, Quail Case, Souffle
Dish, Hot Pot, Pie Dish, Shell, Radish Shell, Eared Dish.
7 2
3 c '
CHAFING DISH AND CASSEROLE COOKERY 1521
paste. Mix all thoroughly, and add the butter, sugar, and seasoning".
Rub through a line sieve and incorporate the egg yolks and half the
above-mentioned quantity of cream. Stir this in a chafing dish until
it is sufficiently cooked. Have ready a plate with a piece of buttered
toast just before serving, add a little more cream and seasoning if
needed, pour the mixture over the toast, garnish with fried bread
croutons, and serve.
Time. — 15 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
Casserole Cookery
3652. — ASPARAGUS AU GRATIN.
Ingredients. — 1 bundle of asparagus, 1 gill of Bechamel sauce (Nos.
177 to 179), grated cheese, breadcrumbs, butter, salt, a grate of nutmeg,
and a pinch of cayenne.
Method. — Clean the asparagus, cut off the tender portion, and tie
up in small bundles. Cook for about 20 minutes in fast boiling water
slightly salted, then drain and let cool. Arrange the cooked asparagus
in layers on a greased baking or gratin dish, placing layers of the pre-
pared sauce between the layers of asparagus. Spread some of the
sauce over the top, and sprinkle with grated cheese and breadcrumbs.
Place a small piece of butter here and there on the surface, and bake
in a sharp oven for about 20 minutes. The top should then acquire
a golden brown. Place the gratin dish on another plain dish, cover
with a folded napkin, and send to table.
Time. — 40 minutes. Average Cost, 3s. 6d. to 10s. per 100. Sufficient for
8 persons. Seasonable, January to July.
3653. — BRAISED PARTRIDGES WITH CABBAGE.
(Fr. — Perdreaux Braises aux Choux.)
Ingredients. — 1 brace of partridges, 3 slices of fat bacon, 2 peeled
shallots, 1 bay leaf, 1 small bouquet garni, 1 blade of mace, 1 sliced
carrot, 1 pint of good stock, 2 small cabbages, \ a pint of well-reduced
brown sauce, 1 sausage, salt and pepper.
Method.— Pick, draw, and truss the partridges for boiling. Line the
bottom of an earthenware braising pan with the slices of fat bacon,
the shallots, bay leaf, bouquet garni, mace and sliced carrot. Put in
the partridges, and cook over a brisk fire for about 10 minutes — long
enough to brown the birds a little. Then moisten with the stock.
Trim and wash the cabbages, cut them into quarters, and cook them
in salted water till half done, drain them well, press in a cloth, and tie
up each with string. Put them in the pan with the birds, season with
1522
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
salt and pepper, and cook the whole in the oven for about an hour.
Strain the liquor or stock, and return it to the braising pan with the
brown sauce. Boil up and skim, now place in the partridges, the
portions of cabbage and a few pieces of sausage, cover the pan, let
it cook gently for another io minutes, and serve.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, 7s. to 8s. 6d. Sufficient for 4
persons. Seasonable, September to February.
3654. — CURRIED RABBIT. ( Fr . — Lapin a 1’Indienne.)
Ingredients. — 1 rabbit, seasoned flour (flour mixed with salt and
pepper to taste), 2 ozs. of butter or dripping, 1 finely-chopped onion,
1 tablespoonful of mild curry powder (Madras or Laxami), 1 clove of
crushed garlic, \ a teaspoonful of ground cinnamon, \ a teaspoonful
of ground ginger, a little ground mace, pints of brown stock, 6
button mushrooms, plain boiled rice.
Method.— Cut the skinned rabbit into neat joints, dip each piece into
the seasoned flour. Fry the rabbit in a large casserole, containing the
butter or dripping. When nicely browned, remove the rabbit, add a
finely-chopped onion to the fat in the pan, fry this with the mild curry
powder and add also the clove of crushed garlic. Fry for a few
moments more, then put in the pieces of rabbit, the ground cinna-
mon, ground ginger, and a little ground mace. Moisten with the
brown stock, and boil, stirring occasionally. Skim well, add the
mushrooms, peeled, and let the whole simmer gently, with the lid on
the casserole, for i-|- hours or less. Have ready some plain boiled rice
to be handed round as the curry is served.
Time. — From ij to 2 hours. Average Cost, about 2s. Sufficient for 3
or 4 persons. Seasonable, from September to February.
3655. — EGG COOUILLES WITH SPINACH.
(Fr. — Oeufs aux Epinards en Coquilles.)
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of prepared and seasoned spinach, 1 breakfast-
cupful of cream, 6 fresh eggs, pepper and salt.
Method. — Have 6 very small coquille or marmite pots, or china
souffle cases, butter them, and put 1 tablespoonful of the spinach in
each. Upon this put about 1 dessertspoonful of cream. Break 1 egg
in each, season with salt and pepper, and bake carefully in a
moderately -heated oven for 8 minutes. Dish rrp, and serve quickly.
Time. — To cook, about 8 minutes. Average Cost, is. 9d. to 2s. 6d.
Sufficient for 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
3656. — HOT POT OF HODGE PODGE.
Ingredients. — ilr lbs. of neck or loin of mutton, 1 lb. of potatoes,
1 good-sized onion, 1 oz. of dripping, \ pint of good stock, chopped
parsley, dried savoury herbs, salt and pepper.
CHAFING DISH AND CASSEROLE COOKERY 1523
Method. — Wash, peel, and slice the potatoes, peel and cut into slices’
the onion, par-fry both potatoes and onion separately. Trim the
mutton, and cut into conveniently-sized pieces, lightly fry them in a
pan containing the dripping. Line a hot-pot jar with alternate layers
of potatoes, meat and onion. Season each layer with salt and pepper
and a pinch of dried savoury herbs. Moisten with the stock, cover
the jar and place it to cook in a fairly hot oven for about 1 £ hours.
The stew must cook slowly, and the fat must be carefully removed
before the dish is sent to the table. When ready for serving, sprinkle
a little chopped parsley on top.
Time. — To cook, about 1^ hours. Average Cost, is. 8d. Sufficient for
4 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Note. — If liked, a handful of cooked peas or a few mushrooms can be
added to the stew about ten minutes before serving it. This is an ex-
ceedingly popular luncheon or supper dish for those who appreciate an old-
fashioned stew. Either mutton, beef or pork can be used for it, the method
of preparation being the same.
3657. — MUSHROOM PUREE IN CASES.
(Fr. — Puree de Champignons en caisses.)
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of fresh-cut mushrooms, 1 oz. of butter, 2 table-
spoonfuls of rich brown sauce, 2 eggs, salt and pepper.
Method. — Wash and peel the mushrooms, chop them very finely, and
fry in butter over the fire for a few minutes. Then add the brown
sauce, stew the puree for 10 minutes, season with salt and pepper,
and stir in the yolks of 2 eggs. Lastly, add the stiffly-whisked white
of 1 egg, blend the whole well, and fill into buttered ramakin cases.
Bake in a moderately heated oven for 15 minutes.
Time. — To bake, 5 minutes. Average Cost, iod. to is. Sufficient for 6
or 8 persons. Seasonable, March to October.
3658. — QUAILES EN CASSEROLE.
Ingredients. — 6 quails, 1 gill of milk, 2 ozs. of butter, 1 handful of
breadcrumbs, salt, pepper, nutmeg, 2 yolks of eggs, parsley, shallot,
3 to 4 chicken livers, 6 slices of bacon, 1 gill of Madeira sauce, No.
255, 1 bay leaf.
Method. — Prepare the quails as for stuffing. Put the milk in an
earthenware stewpan, add the butter, a small bay leaf, salt, pepper,
and a little grated nutmeg, and boil. Stir in the breadcrumbs, and
let simmer for 10 minutes. Remove the bay leaf, and stir in the egg
yolks. Cut the chicken livers up small, saute them in butter in which
the finely chopped shallot has been blended, season with pepper and
salt, and rub through a sieve. Mix the puree with the breadcrumbs,
etc., and stuff the bird with this. Wrap each quail in a thin slice of
bacon, place them in an earthenware pan (casserole) with the re-
1524 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
mainder of butter, and cook over a slow fire for \ an hour. Pour off
the fat, add the sauce, and finish cooking.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 9s. to 10s. 6d. Sufficient for 5
or 6 persons. Seasonable, from October to February.
3659. — RABBIT EN CASSEROLE.
Ingredients. — 1 good-sized rabbit, 4 strips of fat bacon, butter, 2
onions sliced, bacon (cut into cubes), salt, pepper, 1 heaped teaspoonful
of flour, 1 glass of white wine (Chablis or Sauterne), 1 small bouquet
garni, 1 pint of stock.
Method. — -Wash and wipe the rabbit, divide it into joints, lard the
legs and breast portion with the strips of bacon fat, and fry in an
earthenware casserole containing butter, sliced onions, and bacon cut
into cubes. When a nice light brown colour, season with salt and
pepper, and besprinkle with the flour. Stir over the fire until the
flour has acquired a chestnut tint, then moisten with the white wine ;
add the bouquet garni and the stock. Boil up, place the lid on the
pan, and cook in the oven or over a slow fire until the meat is quite
tender. Remove the bouquet of herbs, and any scum from the surface
of the stew, and serve in the casserole.
Time. — 1-|- to 2 hours. Ayerage Cost, 2s. to 2s. 6d. Sufficient for 3 or
4 persons. Seasonable, September to February.
3660. — SPINACH RAMAKINS. ( Fr . — Ramaquins aux
Epinards.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of spinach, \ an oz. of butter, \ an oz. of flour,
J of a gill of cream, 4 of a gill of stock, 2 eggs, salt, pepper and nutmeg.
Method. — Pick and wash the spinach and cook it with very little
water, slightly salted, till quite tender. Then squeeze out the
moisture, and drain thoroughly, and rub through a fine sieve. Melt
the butter in a stewpan, add the flour, cook a little, and moisten with
the cream and stock ; boil up and add the spinach, season to taste
with salt, pepper and nutmeg, and cook for 10 minutes. Incorporate
2 yolks of eggs. Whisk to a stiff froth 2 whites of eggs ; add this to
the mixture. Nearly fill 6 or 8 well-buttered china ramakin cases,
and bake in a moderately heated oven for about 20 minutes.
Time. — To bake, 20 minutes. Average Cost, 8d. to rod. Sufficient for
6 or 8 persons. Seasonable at any time.
FRENCH COOKERY
CHAPTER LI
General Observations on French Cookery, and Recipes
for Typical French Dishes
The First Cookery Book in a Modern Language was published in Madrid
in 1521. Spain has therefore the honour of being the pioneer in this
direction, while France ranks next to Spain for developing the culinary
art. France, although now the nurse of all modern cooks, was in a
state of comparative darkness with regard to cookery until 1580, when
the delicacies of the Itahan table were introduced into Paris, and from
that time the French made rapid progress in the culinary art, and soon
surpassed their Itahan masters. Now French cookery ranks deservedly
high, perhaps higher than any other : and the land that gave birth to
a Careme, a Savarin, a Soyer, and other distinguished chefs, is justly
proud of having raised the culinary art to a high standard of perfection.
In France cookery began to be recognized as an important art in the
reign of Louis XIV, whose great fetes were always accompanied by
sumptuous banquets. In the following reign the Cordon bleu, the order
-of knighthood of the Saint Esprit, instituted by Henry III, became the
recognized definition of a skilful female cook. It is recorded that the
distinction was first bestowed by Louis XV on the female cook of the
celebrated Madame de Barry, as a mark of His Majesty’s high appre-
ciation of the excellent and elaborate repast prepared in his honour.
In England refinement had not yet set its seal on even the most ad-
vanced branches of cookery, for instead of the “ coulis de faisan,’'
“ salmis de becassines,” “ volaille a la Supreme,” and other dainty
dishes which are said to have earned the coveted “ Cordon blue,” we
find included in English menus of that period such coarse preparations
as black pudding, and the homely, savoury, but by no means delicate
viand, roast goose.
Considering the rapid advance in other directions, it is an amazing
fact that France, the culinary nation par excellence , ignored the exist-
ence of the potato until the year 1787, although it had been generally
1525
1526
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
known and appreciated as an article of diet in England and Spain for
upwards of 150 years. Ultimately, Parmentur, a French cuisiniere,
introduced this edible root into his native land, and he not only induced
his countrymen to accept it as a food, but at the same time he taught
them more than fifty ways of preparing it for the table.
Apart from the simple processes of roasting, baking, b filing, and
stewing, nearly all our cookery has been introduced from foreign
sources. The French methods of dressing fish and vegetables, are
now largely introduced into English kitchens, and French bom-
geoise dishes have become quite popular. Greater difference, how-
ever, exists between the diet of the French bourgeoise and the corre-
sponding class in England, for while the former live principally on
well-cooked, palatable, yet inexpensive soups, vegetables, and fruits,
the latter eat more and better kinds of meat, yet fail to obtain a proper
amount of nourishment from the same, by reason of the wasteful
culinary methods employed. The French bourgeoise cookery is an
essentially slow process, by which the natural flavours of the sub-
stances are extracted by gentle means, and at the same time other
flavours are blended so artfully with them that no particular one pre-
dominates. Stews, ragouts, and braises largely replace the joint which
appears almost daily on our tables. In this lies the secret of the
French skili in economy, for while only the prime parts can be roasted,
and always at a considerable loss in weight, owing to evaporation and
melting of the fat, the inferior parts may, by a long, slow process of
stewing, be converted into easily digested, palatable, and nourishing
food.
The prejudice against soup existing among the lower classes in
England will not be readily dispelled, for it is too satisfying for the
moment, and too quickly followed by a feeling of hunger, in conse-
quence of being so readily digested. The English housewife of a
humble class makes the mistake of dispensing soup in bowlfuls, and
frequently in place of more solid food, whereas the French people
simply have a ladleful of hot, palatable, but not always nourishing or
satisfying soup, which instead of impairing the appetite, serves to
prepare the stomach for the reception of more solid food, thereby
aiding digestion.
As regaids the food of the upper classes, the cookery of France
is now almost identical with that of England. For many years
French chefs have been employed in the kitchens of large establish-
ments in England, consequently high-class cookery has become
almost entirely French in character. This to a very large extent can
be said of the best class household cookery, which is termed and known
as Bourgeoise Cookery in France.
Food Supply. — The many rivers of France, as well as the seas that
lave its shores, yield a plentiful supply of fish, all the varieties known
to us being found there, as well as the delicious sardine, which forms
FRENCH COOKERY
1527
a staple branch of industry on the western coast. On the south coast
the sturgeon is in everyday use ; a huge slice of it, larded and covered
with herbs, may be frequently seen carried through the streets to the
baker’s oven, and when cooked it very much resembles a fillet of veal
both in taste and appearance. Another fish in general use is the skate,
which is usually served with its quaint wings smothered in white sauce.
France is abundantly supplied with Game, and the pheasant and partridge
stand as high in favour there as in England.
Roast kid, unknown, or nearly so, in England, is a favourite dish,
more especially in the south, where it is so plentiful that it is frequently
cried in the streets. It is dressed like lamb, or, when very young,
stuffed with breadcrumbs and herbs, and roasted whole.
Poultry feeding is quite an art in France, and every French cook
knows how to cram a fowl, duck, or goose. To watch them, they
would appear to go at the process with a will. Seizing the unfortunate
bird three or four times a day, they open its bill and stuff a quantity
of warm meal and potato down its throat, caressing it and talking to
it the while, and when they consider it has had food enough, wind up
by giving it a very small walnut by way of a digestive.
Nature supplies the whole of France very generously with every-
thing that can further good cooking, while the south simply abounds
in fruit and vegetables, large importations of which daily find their
way to our shores
Typical French Dishes
3661 —BRUSSELS SPROUTS SAUTES, (Fr — Choux
de Bruxelles Sautes A
Ingredients. — 2 lbs of sprouts, 2-3 ozs. of butter, 1 dessertspoonful of
chopped parsley, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped shallots, r table-
spoonful of flour, lemon- juice, nutmeg, salt and pepper.
Method. — Trim and wash the sprouts, put them into a saucepan of
slightly-salted boiling water, cook for 15 minutes, then drain them
thoroughly. Melt 2 ozs. of butter in a stewpan, fry the shallots slightly,
then add the parsley and sprouts, and fry gently until the whole is
lightly browned. Meanwhile heat the remaining butter in a smaller
stewpan, add the flour, mix smoothly with a little milk or cream,
lemon-juice, nutmeg, salt and pepper to taste, and cook gently for about
10 minutes Pile the sprouts on a hot dish, pour the sauce over, and
serve.
Time. — About an hour. Average Cost, 8d. Sufficient for 4 or 5 per-
sons. Seasonable in winter.
1528 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
3662. — CARROT SOUP. (Fr. — Potage a la Crecy,
or Puree de Garottes.)
Ingredients. — 10 fresh carrots, 1 onion, 1 leek, 3 ozs. of butter or 2
ozs. of dripping, 3 pints of boiling stock or water, a few rinds of bacon,
sugar, salt and pepper, fried croutons.
Method. — Prepare the vegetables and cut them into small pieces.
Melt the butter or fat in a stewpan, put in the vegetables, cover with
a close-fitting lid, and cook gently for 1 hour. Add the boiling water
or stock and the bacon rinds, and continue the gentle cooking until
the vegetables are reduced to a pulp. Pass the whole through a sieve
or colander, then add sugar, salt and pepper to taste, re-heat and
serve. The croutons should be handed separately.
Time. — 2 hours. Average Cost, 5d. to 6d. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
3663— CAULIFLOWER FRITTERS. (Fr .— Beignets
de Chouxfleur.)
Ingredients. — 2 large cauliflowers, salt, water (1 tablespoonful of salt
to 2 quarts of water ), 2 ozs. of butter, 1 teaspoonful of olive oil, 8 dessert-
spoonfuls of flour, a bunch of parsley, } of a pint of vinegar.
Method. — Trim and cleanse the cauliflowers in the usual way, and
half boil them in salt and water. Melt the butter in a little hot water,
stir in the flour, oil and salt, making a batter which will run from the
spoon; mix lightly with it the whites of 2 eggs well beaten up. Drain
the cauliflowers thoroughly, divide them yrto branches, and shake the
branches well in the vinegar, seasoned with salt and pepper; then dip
them in the batter, and fry in deep fat, taking care that they do not
stick to each other. Serve in pyramidal shape, and garnish with some
sprigs of parsley.
Time. — \ an hour. Average Cost, is. Sufficient for 8 persons. Sea-
sonable in summer. *
3664.— CROUTE AU POT.
Ingredients. — 2 quarts of stock (see Pot-au-Feu, No. 3674), 2 carrots,
\ a turnip, 2 or 3 strips of celery, \ of a small cabbage, 1 or 2 ozs. of
butter, small stale French rolls, 1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley, a
pinch of grated nutmeg, salt and pepper.
Method. — Wash and prepare the vegetables, cut the carrots, turnip
and celery into thin slices, and the cabbage into small pieces, and
fry them in the butter for 10 minutes. Add the hot stock, nutmeg,
salt and pepper to taste, and simmer gently for \ an hour. Meanwhile,
cut the French roll into thin slices, and bake these in a moderate oven
until browned on both sides. Place them in a soup tureen, moisten
them with a little soup to prevent their floating, and pour the rest of
the soup over them. Sprinkle the parsley on the top, and serve.
TYPICAL FRENCH DISHES 1529
Time. — f- of an hour. Average Cost, is. 3d. to is. 6d. Suflicent for 9 or 10
persons. Seasonable at any time.
3665. — FRENCH COCK-A-LEEKIE SOUP.
(. Fr . — Potage aux Poireaux.)
Ingredients. — 2 sets of fowl giblets, 6 leeks, 3 ozs. of butter, a few rinds
of bacon, 3 pints of boiling water, salt and pepper.
Method. — Wash the giblets and cut them into small pieces. Trim
the leeks, cut them lengthwise into quarters, and then across into pieces
1 inch long. Melt the butter in a stewpan, put in the prepared leeks,
cover closely, and let them steam in the hot butter for \ an hour.
Add the boiling water, bacon rinds, a little salt and pepper, and continue
to cook slowly for at least 2 hours. When ready remove the bacon
rinds, season to taste, and, if necessary, improve the colour by adding
a few drops of caramel.
Time. — From to 3 hours. Average Cost, is. Sufficient for 5 or 6
persons. Seasonable at any time.
3666. — HARICOT MUTTON. (Fr. — Ragout or Navarin
de Mouton.)
Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of neck of mutton, 6 rather small turnips peeled
and cut into thick slices, 2 ozs. of butter or good dripping (about),
1 dessertspoonful of flour, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf),
a small clove of garlic, \ a pint of boiling water, salt and pepper.
Method. — Divide the mutton into cutlets, and if very fat remove some
of it. Heat about \ the butter or fat in a stewpan, fry the meat quickly
until the entire surface is lightly browned; meanwhile sprinkle it with
flour so as to make it brown more quickly. When ready, add the
boiling water, garlic, bouquet-garni, and a little salt and pepper,
cover with a close-fitting lid, and cook very slowly for 1 hour. In the
meantime heat the remaining butter, fry the turnips brown, then drain
them and put them into the stewpan containing the meat. Continue
to cook slowly until both meat and turnips are tender, then pile the
meat in the centre of a hot dish, and arrange the pieces of turnip round
the base. Skim well to remove some of the fat, then strain the gravy
over the meat, and serve.
Time. -About 2 hours. Average Cost, is. iod. to 2s. Sufficient for 3
or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.
3667. — LAMB CUTLETS A LA CONSTANCE.
(Fr. — Cotelettes d’Agneau a la Constance.)
Ingredients. — 8 or 9 lamb cutlets, 3 ozs. of butter, 18 button mush-
rooms, 4 fowls’ livers, 4 cocks’ combs, J of a pint of Bechamel sauce
( see Sauces, No. 177), salt and pepper.
1530
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Clean and blanch the cocks’ combs, rub off the outer skin,
let them lie in cold water for 3 or 4 hours, then cut each one into 3
or 4 pieces. Wash and dry the livers, cut them into quarters, and toss
them with the mushrooms and cocks’ combs in a little hot butter for
a few minutes. Add the Bechamel sauce, season to taste, and let the
stewpan remain closely covered on the stove while the cutlets are being
cooked. Heat the remaining butter in a saute-pan or frying-pan,
fry the cutlets lightly on both sides, then arrange them in a close circle
on a hot dish with or without a potato border, as may be preferred.
Serve the ragout in the centre, and strain the sauce round.
Time. — From 3^ to 4} hours. Average Cost, 5s. to 6s. Sufficient for 7
or 8 persons. Seasonable from January to October.
3668.— LEG OF MUTTON A LA PROVENCALE.
(Fr. — Gigot de Mouton a la Provengale.)
Ingredients. — A leg of mutton of 7 or 8 lbs., lardoons of fat bacon and
of ham, a few anchovies, parsley, blanched tarragon, 2 cloves of garlic,
thyme, chopped onions, 2 or 3 bay-leaves, coarse pepper, salt, \ a pint
of olive-oil, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar.
Method. — Take a leg of mutton that has hung sufficiently long to
make it quite tender, cut off the shank bone, lift the skin partly without
injuring it, and lard the leg with the lardoons of bacon and ham, some
strips of anchovies, and bits of parsley and blanched tarragon, and,
if not objected to, a few strips of garlic. Place in an earthenware
pan some thyme, parsley, chopped onions, 2 or 3 bay-leaves, coarse
pepper and a little salt, pour over it \ a pint of olive-oil and the vinegar.
Allow the leg of mutton to lie in this marinade 2 or 3 hours, turning it
frequently. Then take it out, spread over it the herbs, etc., of the
marinade, covering them over with the skin. Wrap up in buttered
paper, and roast in front of a brisk fire. Remove the paper, and serve.
Time. — 5 to 6 hours. Average Cost, 7s. 6d. to 8s. 6d. Sufficient for 10
or 1 1 persons. Seasonable at any time.
3669— MIROTON OF APPLES. (Fr.— Miroton de
Pommes.)
Ingredients. — 12 medium-sized apples, \ a lb. of apple marmalade,
\ a lb. of apricot marmalade, J of a lb. of castor sugar, 1 teaspoonful
of grated cinnamon, the juice of 2 lemons, 1 wineglassful of brandy.
Method. -Peel, core and slice the apples, sprinkle over them the
sugar and cinnamon, pour over the brandy and lemon-juice, and let
them soak for 4 hours. When ready, mix the apple and apricot marma-
lade together, and pile in the centre of a fireproof dish. Drain the slices
of apple, arrange them in a pyramidal form round and above the mound
TYPICAL FRENCH DISHES 1531
of marmalade. Bake in a moderate oven for \ an hour, then sprinkle
liberally with castor sugar, and serve.
Time. — 5 hours. Average Cost, 2s. 3d. to 2s. gd. Sufficient for 10
persons. Seasonable from September to April.
3670. — ONION SOUP, BROWN. ( Fr . — Potage Soubise
Brune.)
Ingredients. — 4 medium-sized onions cut into dice, 2 ozs. of butter
or x\ ozs. of good dripping, a few scraps of stale bread cut into small
pieces, a few rinds of bacon, the water in which a cauliflower has been
cooked.
Method. — Melt the butter in a stewpan, put in the onions, cover
closely, and let them cook very slowly for 1 hour. Meanwhile, boil
the cauliflower in slightly salted water, drain it, and pour the water
over the onions when they are sufficiently cooked. Add the bacon
rinds, bread and a little pepper, cover and cook gently for 1 hour,
then press the whole through a fine sieve. Replace the soup in the
stewpan; if too thin, let it boil rapidly until sufficiently reduced; or
if too thick, add a little milk. Re-heat, season to taste, and serve.
Time. — 2\ to 2\ hours. Average Cost,4d. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
3671. — ONION SOUP, WHITE. (Fr.— Potage
Soubise Blanche.)
Ingredients. — 4 medium-sized onions cut into dice, 2 ozs. of butter,
1 pint of milk, \ a pint of white stock or water, the crumb of 1 or 2
slices of bread, salt and pepper.
Method. — Heat the butter in a stewpan, put in the onions, cover
closely, and cook very gently for 1 hour, taking care that they do not
acquire the least colour. Then add the bread, milk, stock or water,
continue the slow cooking for about f of an hour longer, and rub the
whole through a fine sieve. Re-heat, season to taste, and serve.
Time. —From 2 to 2\ hours. Average Cost, yd. Sufficient for 3 or 4
persons. Seasonable at any time.
3672. — ONION SOUP WITH CHEESE. (Fr.— Soupe
a l’Oignon au Fromage.)
Ingredients. — 4 medium-sized onions cut into dice, 2 ozs. of butler,
2 tablespoonfuls of grated gruyere cheese, 1 pint of milk, \ a pint of
white stock or water, the crumb of 1 or 2 slices of bread, salt and
pepper.
Method. — Prepare the soup as directed in the preceding recipe.
Re-heat after sieving, add seasoning to taste, and sprinkle in the cheese,
1532
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
a little at a time, stirring briskly meanwhile. This soup is in great
favour with sportsmen in France.
Time. — From 2 to 2|- hours. Average Cost, qd. Sufficient for 3 or 4
persons. Seasonable at any time.
3673.— PARTRIDGE, STEWED. (Fr . — Perdreaux
Etuves.)
Ingredients. — 2 partridges, slices of fat bacon, 4 slices of lemon,
2 small or 1 large carrot sliced, 1 onion sliced, bouquet-garni, 1 glass
of white wine, f of a pint of stock, butter, salt and pepper. For the
sauce : £- of an oz. of butter, f of an oz. of flour.
Method. — Place a piece of butter the size of a small walnut inside
each bird, truss them, and cover the breast first with 2 slices of lemon
and then with bacon. Have the stock ready heated in a stewpan,
put in the prepared birds, vegetables, bouquet-garni, wine and a season-
ing of salt and pepper. Cover closely, cook very gently for 1 hour,
then remove the bacon and slices of lemon, and brown the breasts of
the birds in a moderately hot oven. Meanwhile, the flour should have
been cooked in f- of an oz. of butter until it acquires a nut-brown
colour; now add the strained stock from the stewpan, and stir until
it boils. If liked, the birds may be served garnished with crisply-fried
straws or thin slices of potato, or a puree of mushrooms or green peas.
Serve the sauce separately.
Time. — ij- hours. Average Cost, from 5s. 6d. Suffieent for 2 persons.
Seasonable from September to February.
3674. — POT-AU-FEU. (French Family Soup.)
Ingredients. — 4 lbs. of brisket of beef, \ a cabbage, 2 leeks, 1 large
onion, 2 carrots, a bouquet-garni (parsely, thyme, bay-leaf), 1 dessert-
spoonful of chopped parsley, 4 cloves, 12 peppercorns, 1 tablespoonful
of salt, a lb. of French bread, 6 quarts of cold water.
Method. — Put the meat and water into a stock pot or boiling pot,
let it come gently to boiling point, and skim well. Wash and clean the
vegetables, stick the cloves in the onion, tie up the cabbage and leeks,
and put all in with the meat. Add the carrots cut into large pieces,
the bouquet-garni, peppercorns and salt, and let the whole simmer
gently for 4 hours. Just before serving cut the bread into thin slices,
place them in a soup tureen, and add some of the carrot, leeks and onion
cut into small pieces. Remove the meat from the pot, season the broth
to taste, and strain it into the soup tureen. Sprinkle the chopped
parsley on the top and serve. The meat and remaining vegetables
may be served as a separate course; they may also be used up in some
form for another meal. Or the meat and vegetables may be served and
the broth put aside and used on the following day as “ Croute-au-pot,”
TYPICAL FRENCH DISHES 1533
Time. — 4 hours. Average Cost, 2s. 4d. to 2s. 6d. Sufficient for 10 or 12
persons. Seasonable at any time.
3675. — PUMPKIN SOUP, • ( Fr . — Potage au Potiron.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of ripe juicy pumpkin, 2 ozs. of butter, 1 pint of
boiling milk, 1 small stale French roll very thinly sliced, a pinch of
sugar, salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the pumpkin into rather small pieces, barely cover
them with slightly-salted boiling water, boil for 6 or 7 minutes, then
drain well, and pass through a sieve or colander. Heat the butter
in a stewpan, stir in the pumpkin puree, and let it remain for about
10 minutes. Now add the boiling milk, a pinch of sugar, and salt and
pepper to taste, then simmer gently for a few minutes. Place the
slices of roll in the soup tureen, pour in the soup, and serve.
Time. — 40 minutes. Average Cost, yd. Sufficient for 2 or 3 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
3676. — SOLE, BAKED. ( Fr . — Sole au Gratin.)
Ingredients. — 1 rather large plump sole, 1 tablespoonful of bread-
crumbs, 1 tablespoonful of finely-chopped mushrooms, 1 teaspoonful
of finely-chopped parsley, -£- a teaspoonful of finely-chopped fat bacon,
1 finely-chopped shallot, 1 glass of white wine, and an equal quantity
of good stock, butter, brown breadcrumbs, salt and pepper.
Method. — Trim and skin the sole. Mix the breadcrumbs, mush-
rooms, parsley, bacon, shallot, and a good seasoning of salt and pepper
well together. Cover the bottom of a flat silver or fireproof dish
rather thickly with butter, over which sprinkle 3 the prepared season-
ing, and place the fish on the top of it. Cover with the remainder of the
seasoning, sprinkle lightly with brown breadcrumbs, and add a few
drops of oiled butter. Pour the wine and stock round the fish, and bake
from 15 to 20 minutes in a moderate oven. Serve in the dish in which
it has been cooked.
Time. — To cook, 15 to 20 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. to 2s. 6d.
Sufficient for 2 or 3 persons. Seasonable at any time.
3677. — SOLE A LA BLANCH AILLE.
Ingredients. — 1 sole, milk, flour, seasoning, frying fat.
Method. — Skin and fillet the fish, cut the fillets into very fine shreds,
dip them into milk and then into seasoned flour. Fry in hot fat to a
golden brown. Drain and serve.
Time. -20 minutes. Cost, is. 3d. to is. 9d. Sufficient for 2 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
GERMAN AND AUSTRIAN
COOKERY
CHAPTER LI I
General Observations on German and Austrian Cookery,
and Recipes for Typical German and Austrian
Dishes.
Cookery in Germany. — In no other country does cookery form so much
a part of advanced education as in Germany and Austria, where every
girl, whatever her position, learns how to cook, and not superficially,
as is too often the case in England, for until she has mastered every
branch of the subject her education is not considered complete. This
useful preparation, aided by a complete course of instruction in the
general principles of domestic economy, has naturally developed the
practical side of their character, and won for almost every German and
Austrian woman a well-deserved reputation of being a good housewife
or hausfrau.
For some reason the general reputation of German cookery is not
very high in this country : in fact, not a few think that the German diet
consists chiefly of boiled beef and dumplings, milk soup, peas pudding,
sauerkraut, and sausages. The recipes given in the following chapter
should disabuse the mind of the reader of such an erroneous idea, for
many useful dishes are included which might be advantageously
employed to vary the somewhat monotonous diet of the English
middle classes.
The salads, of which the Germans possess an even greater variety
than the French, are extremely good, especially the salads made of
fish, either freshly cooked, or previously smoked or marinaded. In
addition to an almost endless variety of salads of cold cooked meat,
poultry, game, etc., they have innumerable salads made of almost
every kind of known vegetables, which include artichokes, beans, beet-
root, celery, peas, potatoes, usually plainly boiled and served with a
good dressing. Many others not generally used in England find favour
in Germany, such as succory, dandelion, corn, salmagundi, young hops,
and pickled red and white cabbage.
1534
TYPICAL GERMAN DISHES
1535
With the exception of potatoes and asparagus, plainly dressed vege-
tables are rarely served. The numerous vegetable preparations are
known under the name of Geniise, and many of them are altogether
unknown to us. The German cuisine includes many original methods
of dressing potatoes. French beans are usually boiled, sauteed, and
served with a rich brown gravy. Both white and red cabbage are
shredded finely, tossed in butter or lard until partially cooked, and
afterwards stewed very gently in a small amount of rich stock. The
German and Austrian asparagus is somewhat different from the English
and the French, a considerable portion of the stem being edible,
although this may be in some measure due to the removal of the
stringy fibres from the stalks before cooking.
German housewives exercise as much care in preserving vegetables
for winter use as in preparing them for the table. French beans and
scarlet runners are closely packed in jars : potatoes, turnips, and
other root plants are carefully packed in sand in a cool cellar, and if
not allowed to touch each other may be kept for months. The Ger-
mans, like the French, would not consider a dinner complete without
soup : no matter how humble the meal may be, soup nearly always
forms a part of it. They have, besides the ordinary meat and vege-
table soup, a sweet milk soup thickened with flour and flavoured with
apples, almond soup, chocolate soup, wine soup flavoured with vine
leaves, potato soup flavoured with prunes or apples, and a variety of
fruit soups altogether unknown to us. Of beef soups they have no
less than 8 varieties, the most popular kind being thickened with
bread and flavoured with caraway seeds.
Puddings are not much in vogue in Germany : in fact, a boiled
pudding is seldom seen, and baked ones are almost unknown. Their
plainer kind of sweets consist chiefly of boiled custard or a mixture
of cake or bread and fruit, invariably served cold in special china
dishes. Of creams, jellies, ice-puddings and ices they have an almost
endless variety, and in this particular branch of cookery they may
be said to excel. Fruit pies and tarts, such as we have here, are
altogether unknown in Germany, but instead of these they have many
curiously prepared sweets and innumerable fancy cakes not included
in the English cuisine, such as “ Sandtorte,” “ Gugelhopf,” “ Waffeln,”
“ Krachtorte,” etc. Their bread also comprises many kinds, from the
nourishing black bread, “ Schwarz brod ” or “ Pumpernickel,” to the
delicious little fancy breads. They have also milk rolls in great
varieties, the stringel, long sticks and long twists, the surface of these
being usually sprinkled with coarse salt, or a mixture of salt and
caraway seeds.
Fruit of every kind is both cheap and plentiful, and usually of
excellent quality. Every housewife understands the art of preserving
fruit in jars, bottles, or tins for winter use, but curiously enough they
seldom make it into jam.
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1536
The German Middle Classes rise much earlier than the corresponding
class in England, and usually breakfast between 7 and 8 o’clock. This
simple, informal meal consists of rolls and coffee, the family seldom
sit down together, each member partaking of the meal as he or she
makes his or her first appearance.
At 1 1 o’clock there is a sort of snatch repast, which consists of white
or brown bread, smoked sausages or cheese, and a glass of wine or
lager beer.
The principal meal of the day is the Miitagessen or dinner, which is
usually served between 12 and 1 o’clock. It consists of soup, meat,
either roasted, boiled, or braised, accompanied by vegetables or salad,
and is followed by a compote of fruit or some other sweet, or, failing
these, a little cheese. Light wine or beer is nearly always served with
the midday repast.
The middle classes have, instead of our “ afternoon tea,” the caffee-
klatsche or coffee gossip, a light, informal meal of coffee and cakes,
which any number of uninvited guests may share ; although many
housewives of a humbler class provide coffee between \ past 3 and 4
o’clock, this meal is by no means general with them : in fact, as a
rule, nothing is served between dinner and supper.
The Supper, “ Nachtessen ” or “ Abendmahl,” is served between
7 and 8 o’clock in the evening, and may, in summer time, consist
principally of the famous Teutonic dish “ dicke Milch ” and fruit, and
at other times of a soup or an omelet, a dish of cold meat and salad,
or some kind of dressed vegetable. Except among the upper classes,
late dinners are not the rule in Germany, although the elaborate meals
provided when friends are invited are identical with the English dinner
in all but name.
The Austrian-German Cuisine has many broad features in common,
although in many respects Austria is far in advance of Germany and
other neighbouring countries. Providing well-cooked food for the
masses became a national question many years ago, when self-sup-
porting “ People’s Kitchens ” were started in Vienna and other parts
of the country, whereby good and wholesome food was brought within
the reach of the poor and labouring classes at the lowest possible prices.
A knowledge of cookery runs through all classes, and is an essential
part of education. This knowledge, however,. is not as a rule acquired
either at home or at a cookery school — for these latter institutions,
which abound in England and Germany, arc almost unknown in Austria
— but under the guidance of chefs or cooks in hotels and private
families. It is customary for most Austrian cooks to be allowed to
receive one or more pupils, and although this may to us appear a
peculiar practice, it is nevertheless a fact that any one desirous of
learning the culinary art must necessarily resort to this means to
obtain what they desire.
The food materials employed by the middle classes of Austria are
TYPICAL GERMAN DISHES
1537
generally of an inexpensive description, the excellence of their cooking
being chiefly due to the care bestowed on the preparation of the most
simple substances. They, like the Germans, rarely serve meat plainly
dressed, their savoury roasts being a national institution, like the
roast and baked meats of England. These roasts, which are identical
with the braisees of France, may consist of meat cooked whole, meat
thickly sliced, or meat stuffed and rolled.
Typical German Dishes
3678. — APFEL TORTE. (German Apple Tart.)
(Fr. — Tourte de Pommes.)
Ingredients. — 10 or 12 apples, 4 ozs. of butter, 3 ozs. of almonds,
3 eggs, the finely-grated rind of 1 small lemon, 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls
of moist sugar, I of a pint of cream, good short crust ( see Pastry,
No. 1667).
Method. — Pare, core and slice the apples. Put the sugar into a
basin, add the cream, lemon-rind, the butter melted, and the eggs
previously well beaten. Mix well together, stir in the sliced apples,
and let the mixture stand while the almonds are being blanched and
cut lengthwise into strips. Line 2 large plates with paste, place a
narrow rim of the same round the edge, and fill the centre with the
mixture. Sprinkle the almonds on the top, bake in a moderate oven
from 35 to 45 minutes, and when done dredge liberally with castor
sugar. Serve either hot or cold.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 2s. 3d. Sufficient for 2 tarts.
Seasonable at any time.
3679. — RAYRISCHE KNODEL. (Bavarian Dumpl-
ings.) ( Fr . — Quenelles Bavaroise.)
Ingredients. — 8 ozs. of finely-chopped raw or cooked meat, 2 ozs. of
breadcrumbs, \ a teaspoonful of powdered mixed herbs, 1 or 2 eggs,
nutmeg, salt and pepper, 2 ozs. of butter oiled.
Method. — Mix the meat, breadcrumbs, herbs, a pinch of nutmeg,
and a good seasoning of salt and pepper well together, and moisten
thoroughly with beaten egg. Form the mixture into balls of moderate
size, drop them into boiling stock or slightly salted water, cook gently
from 10 to 15 minutes, then remove the balls carefully and drain well.
Serve with the oiled butter poured over them, or, if preferred, pour a
little good gravy round them. The excellency of this dish depends
on the mixture being of proper consistency, therefore an inexperienced
3 D
1538
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
cook would do well to test a little of the mixture, by dropping it into
boiling water before forming the whole of it into balls.
Time. — \ an hour. Average Cost, 9d. to is. Sufficient for 6 or 8
persons.
3680. — BIERSUPPE. (Beer Soup.)
Ingredients. — 2 pints German beer, 2 slices of bread, 1 oz. butter, 2
eggs, ginger, caraway seeds, and salt to taste.
Method. — Remove the crust of the bread, and divide the crumbly part
into small pieces. Put them into a stewpan, add the beer, boil up,
whisking meanwhile, and stir in the ginger. In the meantime the
caraway seeds should have been fried gently in the butter; now drain
them well and add them, with a seasoning of salt to the contents of the
stewpan. Cook slowly for about 15 minutes, then pour over the yolks
of eggs, which should be previously well beaten and placed in the soup
tureen.
Time. — \ an hour. Average Cost, iod. to is.
3681. — FLADCHEN MIT SPINAT. (Pancakes with
Spinach). (Fr. — Crepes aux epinards.)
Ingredients. — Spinach, 1 oz. of butter, 1 finely-chopped small onion,
1 tablespoonful of cream, 1 tablespoonful of flour, 1 pint of milk, 3
eggs, pancakes ( see No. 3693).
Method. — Boil as much spinach as will, when finely-chopped or passed
through a sieve, produce 1 pint of puree. Melt the butter in a stewpan,
fry the onion lightly, put in the spinach and cream, sprinkle in the flour,
season to taste, and stir over the fire for a few minutes. Have ready
some thin pancakes, made as directed in No. 3693, spread each one
with the spinach preparation, roll them up and place them in an earthen-
ware baking-dish or large pie-dish. Beat the eggs well, stir in the milk,
add salt and pepper to taste, and pour over the pancakes. Bake in a
moderately hot oven until the custard is set, then serve.
Time. — 1% hours. Average Cost, is. to is. 3d. Sufficient for 5 or 6
persons. Seasonable at any time.
3682. — FLEISCHKUCHEN. (Meat Pancakes.)
(Fr.— Omelette Allemande.^
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of finely-chopped cold meat, i-J- ozs. of butter.
2 finely-chopped shallots, \ a gill of gravy or stock, 1 dessertspoonful
of flour, salt and pepper, batter ( see Pancakes No. 3693), lard.
Method. — Fry the shallots lightly in the hot butter, sprinkle in the
flour, add the stock, and boil well. When the flour is sufficiently
cooked, add the meat and seasoning to taste, and stir over the fire
for a few minutes. Make the batter as directed in the recipe for pan-
TYPICAL GERMAN DISHES
1539
Cakes, and pour a thin layer of it into an omelet-pan in which a little
lard has been previously heated. As soon as it is set spread over it
about 2 tablespoonfuls of the meat preparation, and cover with another
layer of batter. Now place the omelet-pan in a hot oven, bake until
the batter is set and lightly browned, then cut into convenient portions,
and serve as hot as possible. This will be found an excellent way of
disposing of cold meat. To be served in true German fashion, it
should be accompanied by some kind of green salad.
Time. — 40 minutes. Average Cost, is. 2d., exclusive of the batter.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.
3683. — GEFULLTE LEBER. (Stuffed Liver.)
(. Fr . — Foie farcie.)
Ingredients. — 1-|- lbs. of calf’s liver, 1 calf’s caul, 4 ozs. of fat bacon,
40ZS. of crumb of bread, 3 eggs, 1 level tablespoonful of finely-chopped
onion, stock, milk, dripping, nutmeg, salt and pepper.
Method. — Wash and dry the liver thoroughly, and chop it finely.
Cut the bacon into dice and fry it lightly, then add the onion and fry
until slightly browned. Put in the liver, add nutmeg, salt and pepper
to taste, stir over the fire until the liver changes colour, then turn the
preparation into a basin, and let it remain until cool. Meanwhile,
soak the bread in a little milk until soft, then squeeze it as dry as
possible, and add it to the liver preparation. Beat the eggs well, and
stir them well into the other ingredients. Wash and dry the caul
thoroughly; with it line an earthenware casserole, or, failing this, a stew-
pan, put in the mixture, and fold the caul so as to envelop it com-
pletely. Add a little dripping, and bake in a moderate oven for about
of an hour. 15 minutes before serving drain off the fat, add a little
strong stock, and baste well. Serve hot.
Time. — 1 J to 2 hours. Average Cost, 2s. 2d. to 2s. 6d. Sufficient for
4 or five persons. Seasonable at any time.
3684. — GEHIRNSCHNITTEN. (Brain Toast.)
(Fr. — Cervelles sur Croutes.)
Ingredients. — 2 calves’ brains, i-| ozs. of butter, 1 heaped tablespoonful
of fine breadcrumbs, oiled butter, croutes of fried or toasted bread,
grated cheese, salt and pepper. For garnishing : slices of lemon and
crisp green parsley.
Method. — Wash the brains in several waters, blanch them, and
when cold divide each one into 4 or more pieces. Heat the butter in
a saute-pan or frying-pan, fry the brains lightly, then place them on
the prepared croutes, which should nearly correspond in size. Season
them with salt and pepper, sprinkle thickly with mixed cheese and
1540
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
breadcrumbs, and pour over a few drops of oiled butter. Place them
on a baking sheet in a hot oven for about io minutes, then serve gar-
nished with parsley and slices of lemon.
Time. — i|- hours. Average Cost, is. 6d. to 2s. Sufficient for 7 or 8
persons. Seasonable at any time.
3685. — HACHIS UND REIS RULLETTEN. (Meat and
Rice Rissoles.)
Ingredients. — a lb. of rice, ^ a lb. of finely-chopped cold meat, i-j ozs,
of butter, the yolks of 2 eggs, 2 finely-chopped shallots, \ a gill of gravy,
1 dessertspoonful of flour, nutmeg, salt and pepper, egg and bread-
crumbs, frying-fat, stock.
Method. — Wash and drain the rice, put it into a stewpan with sufficient
stock to cover it, and cook until tender, adding more stock when
necessary, but not more than the rice will completely absorb. When
ready season to taste with nutmeg, salt and pepper, and spread in a
thin layer on a large dish. Fry the shallots lightly in the hot butter,
sprinkle in the flour, add the stock, and boil well. Put in the meat
and 2 yolks of eggs, season to taste, stir over the fire for a few minutes,
then turn the mixture on to a plate to cool. Cut the rice into round
or oval shapes, spread the centre of half of them thickly with the meat
mixture, and cover with the other portions of rice. Seal the edges
carefully, coat them completely with egg and breadcrumbs, and fry in
hot fat. Dish up and serve hot.
Time. — 2 hours. Average Cost, is. 3d. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
3686. — HERING SALAT. (Fr. — Salade de Harengs.)
Ingredients. — 2 good smoked or salted herrings, 2 hard-boiled eggs,
1 cold boiled potato, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, \ a
teaspoonful of finely-chopped onion, 2 tablespoonfuls of salad-oil,
ii tablespoonfuls of vinegar, salt and pepper, slices of beetroot and
capers for garnishing.
Method. — Put the herrings in a moderate oven for 2 or 3 minutes,
so as to enable the skins to be easily removed. Cut off the heads,
split the fish in halves, and divide into small pieces, carefully removing
the bones. Place the onion, parsley, and a seasoning of salt and pepper
in a salad bowl, stir in the oil and vinegar, and mix well. Cut the eggs
and potato into small dice, mix them and the flaked fish lightly but
thoroughly with the salad dressing, and decorate with the sliced beet-
root and capers.
Time.— 15 minutes. Average Cost, iod. to is. Sufficient for 3 or 4
persons. Seasonable at any time.
TYPICAL GERMAN DISHES
I54i
3687. — KARTOFFELN MIT KASE. (Potatoes with
Cheese.) {Fr. — Pommes de terre au
Fromage.)
Ingredients. — Cold potatoes, 1 or 2 tablespoonfuls of grated cheese,
2 eggs, f of a pint of milk, salt and pepper.
Method. — Beat the eggs well, stir in the milk, and season the custard
to taste with salt and pepper. Butter a deep fireproof dish, put in a
layer of slices of cooked potato, season with salt and pepper, sprinkle
over some grated cheese, and add 2 tablespoonfuls of the prepared
custard. Repeat until the dish is full, and making the last layer of
cheese. Bake in a moderate oven for about \ an hour, and serve in the
dish.
Time. — §■ of an hour. Average Cost, 8d. to iod. Sufficient for 3 or 4
persons. Seasonable at any time.
3688. — KARTOFFELSALAT. (Potato Salad.)
{Fr. — Salade de Pommes de terre.)
Ingredients. — 8 or 9 potatoes, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley,
\ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped chives, \ a teaspoonful of finely-
chopped onion, \ a gill of hot stock, 2 tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, 1
tablespoonful of wine vinegar, salt and pepper, slices of pickled beetroot
or cucumber.
Method. — Boil the potatoes in their skins, peel and slice them thinly,
and place them in layers in a salad bowl, sprinkling each layer with
parsley, onion, chives, salt and pepper. Mix the oil and vinegar
together, add the hot stock, and pour it over the salad. Mix lightly,
garnish with beetroot and cucumber, and serve before the potatoes are
quite cold. Variety may be introduced by adding a finely-shredded
marinaded herring, or a few sardines or anchovies.
Time. — About £ an hour. Average Cost, qd. to 6d. Sufficient for 3 or
4 persons. Seasonable at any time.
3689. — KIRSCHEN SAUCE. (Black Cherry Sauce.)
{Fr. — Sauce aux Cerises.)
Ingredients. — Dried black cherries (about 4 of a pint), \ a pint of red
wine, a thin strip of lemon-rind, 2 cloves, a small piece of cinnamon,
\ a gill of gravy, 1 dessertspoonful of cornflour, salt.
Method. — Soak the cherries in lukewarm water for 1 hour, then
drain and dry them well, and pound them with the stones. Place the
pounded preparation in a stewpan, add the wine, lemon-rind, cloves,
cinnamon, with a little salt, and boil for 2 or 3 minutes. Mix the corn-
flour and gravy smoothly together, add it to the sauce, boil gently
for 3 or 4 minutes, stirring meanwhile, then strain and serve.
Time. — About ij hours. Average Cost, is. Sufficient for pint.
Seasonable at any time,
1542
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
3690. — LEBERKLOESSE. (Liver Dumplings.)
(Fr. — Quenelles de Foie de Veau.)
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of liver, preferably calf’s, 2 ozs. of butter, 1 table-
spoonful of flour, 2 eggs, 1 small onion finely-chopped, the finely-grated
rind of \ a lemon, 1 good teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 1 dinner
roll, or other bread, soaked in milk, nutmeg, salt and pepper.
Method. — Wash and dry the liver thoroughly, chop it finely, and
mix with it the bread, previously squeezed as dry as possible, lemon-
rind, onion, parsley and flour. Season to taste with nutmeg, salt and
pepper, and moisten thoroughly with beaten egg. Add the egg by
degrees, testing the mixture by dropping a little of it into boiling
water. When the proper consistency is obtained, form into balls
of moderate size, drop them into boiling stock or salted water, and cook
gently from 15 to 20 minutes. Serve with the butter melted and
poured over them.
Time. — From 30 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, iod. to is. Sufficient
for 2 or 3 persons. Seasonable at any time.
3691. — LINZERTORTE. (German Gateau.)
Ingredients. — 7 ozs. of fine flour, 6 ozs. of pounded or ground almonds,
6 ozs. of castor sugar, 6 ozs. of butter, \ of an oz. of powdered cinnamon,
2 eggs, fruit, jam or marmalade.
Method. — Rub the butter into the flour, add the almonds, sugar and
cinnamon, and mix into a stiff paste with the well-beaten eggs. Roll
out, cut into 2 rounds about the size of a dessert plate, place them
on a greased baking-sheet, and spread the centres rather thickly with
jam, marmalade or stewed fruit, leaving the edges free. Moisten the
edges, and put on them a border made out of the paste-trimmings,
place a few strips across to form a lattice work, brush lightly over with
milk, and sprinkle liberally with sugar. Bake in a moderate oven from
20 to 25 minutes, and serve cold.
Time. — About 45 minutes. Average Cost, is. 8d. to 2s. Sufficient for
2 tarts. Seasonable at any time.
3692. — MILCHBROD SUPPE. (Milkbread Soup.)
(Fr. — Soupe au Pain de Lait.)
Ingredients. — 2 or 3 stale milk rolls, 2 quarts of stock, 2 eggs, nutmeg,
salt and pepper.
Method. — Grate the crusts of the rolls into a stewpan, pour in the
boiling stock, and let it simmer for 15 minutes, stirring frequently.
Beat the eggs until light, stir them into the soup, add nutmeg, salt and
pepper to taste, and whisk by the side of the fire until the soup thickens,
but do not allow it to boil after adding the eggs, or they may curdle.
Time. — an hour. Average Cost, 4(1., exclusive of the stock.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
TYPICAL GERMAN DISHES
1543
3693. — PFANKUCHEN. (Pancakes.)
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of flour, 2 eggs, i4 gills of milk, a pinch of salt,
lard or butter for frying.
Method.— Sieve the flour and salt into a basin, beat up the eggs and
stir them gradually into the flour ; add half the milk and beat until
smooth, add the remainder of the milk, and allow the batter to stand.
To fry the pancakes, place a small piece of butter or lard in an omelet
pan ; when hot, pour in sufficient batter to cover the bottom of the
pan. Fry until one side is coloured, then toss and fry the other side
a golden brown. Turn on to a sugared paper, sprinkle over with
lemon juice, roll up and dish on hot dish on a lace paper.
Time. — 1 hour. Average Cost, 4|-d. Sufficient for 4 persons. Season-
able at any time.
3694. — POLNISCHER BOCK. (Braised Veal.)
( Fr . — Veau braise.)
Ingredients. — 3 lbs. of lean veal, 2 ozs. of butter, 6 ozs. of fat bacon cut
into dice, the rind of \ a lemon cut into dice, 6 boned anchovies divided
into short pieces, -J- a pint of stock (about), meat glaze, salt and pepper.
Method. — The meat should be cut into one flat piece, and must be
well beaten with a cutlet-bat. Make small incisions on the upper
surface of the meat, and insert the dice of bacon, onion, lemon-rind
and anchovies. Season liberally with salt and pepper, roll up tightly,
and tie securely with twine. Heat the butter in a braising-pan, fry the
prepared meat until lightly browned, then add any trimmings of bacon,
lemon-rind and onion there may be, and the stock, and cover closely.
Cook gently in the oven from 2 to 2-1- hours, basting frequently, and
when ready remove the twine and brush over with meat glaze. Serve
with good brown gravy.
Time. — To cook, from 2 to 2\ hours. Average Cost, 4s. 6d. to 5s.
Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons. Seasonable at any time.
3695. — SACHER TORTE. (German Chocolate Tart.)
Ingredients. — 8 ozs. of butter, 6 ozs. of castor sugar, 4 ozs. of fine
flour, 4 ozs. of vanilla chocolate, finely-grated, 8 eggs, the finely-grated
rind of 4 a lemon, \ a gill of whipped cream, apricot marmalade.
Method. — Beat the butter to a cream, stir in the yolks of eggs separ-
ately, add the sugar, grated chocolate, lemon-rind, and lastly the flour,
and beat briskly for at least 20 minutes. Whisk the whites of eggs to a
very stiff froth, stir them into the rest of the ingredients as lightly as
possible, pour the mixture into round shallow tins, and bake in a
moderate oven from 40 to 45 minutes. When quite cold spread the
1544
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
surface rather thickly with apricot jam, and decorate tastefully with
whipped cream.
Time. — to 2 hours. Average Cost, 2s. to 2s. 6d. Sufficient for 2 or
3 tarts. Seasonable at any time.
3696. — SANDTORTE. (^Sandy Cake.)
(. Fr . — Tourte Sablee.)
Ingredients. — 7 ozs. of potato flour or cornflour, 1 oz. of Vienna flour,
8 ozs. of butter, 6 ozs. of castor sugar, 1 oz. of ground almonds, the
whites of 3 eggs, the yolks of 2 eggs, 1 teaspoonful of finely-grated
lemon-rind, the juice of a lemon.
Method. — Clarify the butter and put it aside until lightly set, then
add the sugar and beat until creamy and white'. When the proper
consistency has been obtained, beat in the yolks of eggs, add the ground
almonds, lemon-rind and lemon-juice, and lastly the flour and potato
flour. Whip the whites of eggs to a very stiff froth, add them as lightly
as possible to the rest of the ingredients, then pour the mixture into
a flat cake tin, which must be previously well buttered and lightly
covered with cake crumbs. Bake in a moderate oven from 35 to 40
minutes, and when cold, glaze with fondant or other icing ( see No.
3461), and decorate to taste.
Time. — About i-J hours. Average Cost, is. 3d. Sufficient for 1 cake.
Seasonable at any time.
3697. — SCHLACHTBRATEN OR SAUERBRATEN.
(A Sour Roast.) (Fr. — Roti de Boeufaigre.)
Ingredients. — 3 lbs. of beef, fillet or any lean tender meat, 2 ozs. of
butter, larding bacon, 1 onion sliced, 1 lemon thinly sliced, the juice
of \ a lemon, 1 tablespoonful of flour, 1 \ gills of vinegar, 1 gill of sour
cream or milk, \ a gill of stock or water, 1 oz. of loaf sugar, 2 bay-leaves,
salt and pepper.
Method. — Trim the meat, skewer it into a good shape, and lard one
side of it rather closely. Heat the butter in a large stewpan,. add any
trimmings of bacon there may be, and fry the meat until the entire
surface is lightly browned. Now sprinkle the flour over the side that
is not larded, and continue the process a little longer, frying the onion
at the same time. Add the stock or water, vinegar, cloves and bay-
leaf, bring to the boil, stirring well from the bottom of the pan mean-
while, then remove the stewpan to a moderate oven, and cook gently
for about \\ hours, or until the meat is quite tender. Place the sugar
with a few drops of water in a small stewpan, and cook over a slow tire
until it acquires a deep brown colour, then add the sour cream or milk,
and stir until well mixed. Take up the meat, keep it hot, strain the
liquor, and add it to the cream and sugar, season to taste, put in the
lemon-juice, boil for a few minutes, then pour it over and round the
TYPICAL GERMAN DISHES
T5i5
meat. Garnish with slices of lemon, and serve with stewed macaroni
or semolina.
Time. — 2\ to 2\ hours. Average Cost, 4s. 6d. Sufficient for 6 or 7
persons. Seasonable at any time.
3698. — SUPPE MIT SCHINKENKLQESCHEN. (Soup
with small Plam Dumplings.)
Ingredients. — 6 ozs. of finely-chopped lean ham, 3 ozs. of butter,
1 oz. of flour, 2 eggs, 2 quarts of clear stock, 1 heaped tablespoonful of
breadcrumbs (about), I of a teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley,
nutmeg, salt and pepper.
Method. — Melt the butter in a small stewpan, add the flour, stir over the
fire for 3 or 4 minutes, then put in the ham and the breadcrumbs. Beat
the eggs in separately, add nutmeg, salt and pepper to taste, and as many
breadcrumbs as will form the whole into a stiff mixture. Let the mix-
ture cool, then shape it into very small dumplings, drop them into the
stock when quite boiling, and cook gently for about 15 minutes. Place
both soup and dumplings in a soup tureen, sprinkle on the parsley,
and serve.
Time. — 1£ hours. Average Cost, iod., exclusive of the stock. Suffi-
cient for 6 or 8 persons. Seasonable at any time.
3699. — WASSERSUPPE. (Water Soup.)
(Fr. — Soupe a 1’eau.)
Ingredients. — 3 pints of boiling water, 2 eggs, 2 dessertspoonfuls of
flour, \ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, \ a teaspoonful of
finely-chopped chives, nutmeg, salt and pepper.
Method. — Beat the eggs well, stir them into the flour, add the butter,
previously oiled, and beat until smooth. Have the water ready
boiling in a stewpan, add the onion, pour in the batter, and whisk
vigorously until boiling. Simmer gently for 10 minutes, then sprinkle
in the parsley, season to taste, and serve.
Time. — 25 minutes. Average Cost, 3d. to 4d. Sufficient for 6 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
3700. —' WEISS-KOHL MIT WURST. (Cabbage with
Sausages.) (Fr. — Choux au Sausisse.)
Ingredients. — 1 large white cabbage, 3 ozs. of butter, 1 small onion
finely-chopped, salt and pepper, sausages either boiled or fried.
Method. -Trim, wash and boil the cabbage, drain and press it well
to extract as much moisture as possible, then chop it finely on a board
or in a chopping-bowl. Heat the butter in a stewpan, fry the onion
lightly, then put in the cabbage with a seasoning of salt and pepper.
Fry without browning until the butter is absorbed, then pile the cabbage
in a pyramidal form on a hot dish, slice the sausages and arrange them
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1546
round the base, If liked, a little gravy or brown sauce may be poured
round the dish. Neatly-trimmed poached eggs are sometimes put in
the centre of the cabbage.
Time. — 1} hours. Average Cost, is. 3d. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
3701. — ZWETSCHEN SAUCE. (Prune Sauce.)
(Fr. — Sauce aux Prunes.)
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of prunes, 1 glass of port or claret, the juice of
1 lemon, the thinly-pared rind of -J- a lemon, a teaspoonful of powdered
cinnamon.
Method. — Simmer the prunes in just sufficient cold water to cover
them until quite soft, then remove and crack the stones and preserve
the kernels. Replace the prunes and kernels in the stewpan, add the
lemon-rind and lemon-juice, the wine and cinnamon, simmer gently
for 10 minutes, and rub through a sieve. If necessary, dilute with
a little more wine or water, and serve with any kind of plain pudding.
Time. — J an hour. Average Cost, yd. or 8d. Sufficient for pint of
sauce. Seasonable at any time.
Typical Austrian Dishes
3702. — BAUMWOLLENSUPPE.
Ingredients. — 1 quart of good brown stock, 2 eggs, 1 tablespoonful of
fine flour, 1 tablespoonful of oiled butter, a pinch of salt, a pinch of
nutmeg.
Method. — Mix the flour, salt, nutmeg, butter and eggs into a smooth
batter. Have the stock ready boiling, strained and free from fat; let
the batter run through a pointed strainer or colander, into the soup,
holding it high above the stewpan, meanwhile stirring the soup
slowly with a whisk. Simmer gently for about 10 minutes, then season
to taste and serve.
Time. — About 10 minutes. Average Cost, is. 3d. to is. 6d. Sufficient
for 5 or 6 persons.. Seasonable at any time.
3703* — GULLASH (GULIAS-HUS.) (An Austro-
Hungarian Dish.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of lean tender beef or veal, 2 potatoes peeled and
cut into dice, 3 ozs. of butter, 4 ozs. of bacon cut into dice, l a small
onion finely-chopped, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, 4 a teaspoonful of
caraway seeds, 1 gill of brown stock, \ a wineglassful of Madeira
wine. Paprika pepper, pepper and salt.
TYPICAL AUSTRIAN DISHES
1547
Method. — Remove all fat and skin from the meat, cut it into dice,
and season lightly with salt and pepper. Heat \ the butter in a saute-
pan or frying-pan, fry the onion slightly, add the meat and cook gently
on the stove or in the oven from 10 to 15 minutes. Now sprinkle
on the flour, add the wine, stock and caraway seeds, and continue to
cook slowly. Heat the remaining butter, fry the bacon lightly, then
add the prepared potatoes, and fry them until they acquire a deep
golden-brown colour. Drain well, add to the contents of the saute-
pan, and cook gently until both meat and potatoes are done. Stir
occasionally, but gently so as not to break the potatoes, and when
ready season to taste, and serve.
Time. — 4 an hour. Average Cost, is. iod. Sufficient for 6 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
3704. — KAHAB. (Fv. — Saute de Veau.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of fillet or neck of veal, 2 ozs. of butter, 1 very
small onion thinly-sliced, 4 a lemon thinly-sliced, 4 a pint of sour
cream, 4 of a teaspoonful of caraway seeds, salt and pepper. For
garnishing : slices of lemon and tufts of parsley.
Method. — Cut the meat free from skin and bone into pieces about
2 inches square and about 4 an inch in thickness. Heat the butter
in a fireproof earthenware cooking pot, put in the meat, season to
taste with salt and pepper, add the caraway seeds, sliced onion and
lemon, and fry gently for 10 minutes. Now add the cream, cover
closely, and cook gently in the oven for about f- of an hour, or until
tender. Serve garnished with thin slices of lemon and tufts of parsley.
Time. — 1 hour. Average Cost, is. gd. to is. nd. Sufficient for 5 per-
sons. Seasonable at any time.
3705. — KAISERSUPPE. (Emperor Soup.)
Ingredients. — 24 pints of white stock, i|- ozs. of butter, 1 oz. of rice,
2 tablespoonfuls of grated cheese, 4 of a cabbage, 1 leek, 1 carrot,
4 a turnip, 4 an onion, 4 a teaspoonful of sugar, salt and pepper.
Method. — Prepare the vegetables, shred the cabbage coarsely, and
cut the rest into dice. Heat the butter in a stewpan, fry the vegetables
slowly for 15 or 20 minutes, but do not let them brown. Wash and
drain the rice, add it to the contents of the stewpan, also add the
sugar, and shake the stewpan over the fire until nearly all the
butter is absorbed. Now add the stock, cover closely, and simmer
gently for 4 an hour. Season to taste, sprinkle in the cheese, and
serve. If preferred, the grated cheese may be handed round separ-
ately.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, is. 9d. to 2s. Sufficient for 6 or
7 persons. Seasonable at any time.
1548 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
3706. — KALBSVOEGEL. (A Variety of Veal Olives.)
(Fr. — Olives de Veau.)
Ingredients. — 1% lbs. of lean veal, a few thin slices of streaky bacon,
i-|- ozs. of butter, i-J- ozs. of flour, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped
parsley, 1 teaspoonful of finely-grated lemon-rind, 1 gill of white stock,
\ a gill of white wine, meat glaze, mashed potato, salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the meat across the grain into thin slices, flatten them
with a cutlet-bat, and sprinkle liberally with salt, pepper and lemon-
rind. Place a thin slice of bacon on each piece of meat, roll up tightly
and secure with twine. Heat the butter in a saute-pan, fry the rolls
until then entire surface is lightly browned, then remove them from the
pan. Stir in the flour, fry until lightly browned, add the wine, stock,
parsley, and the remaining lemon-rind, and boil up. Replace the meat
in the pan, cover, and simmer gently for 20 minutes. When ready
remove the strings, arrange the rolls on a bed of mashed potato, add the
meat glaze to the sauce, boil up, and then strain over and round the meat.
Time. — ij hours. Average Cost, 2s. to 2s. 3d. Sufficient for 6 or 7
persons. Seasonable at any time.
3707 . — KASEGEBACK. (Hot Cheese Fritters.)
(Fr.— Beignets de Fromage.)
Ingredients. — \ of a lb. of Gruyere cheese, of a lb. of choux paste
(see p. 882), Nepaul pepper or cayenne, salt, egg and breadcrumbs,
frying-fat.
Method. — Cut the cheese into slices about \ of an inch thick, and
stamp them in round or oval shaped pieces. Coat one side of each
piece of cheese rather thickly with choux paste, and smooth the surface
with a knife. Season the breadcrumbs liberally with salt and Nepaul
pepper or cayenne, coat each prepared slice of cheese carefully with egg
and breadcrumbs, and as soon as the coating is dry repeat the process.
Fry in hot fat, drain well, and serve as a savoury.
Time. — 40 minutes. Average Cost, is. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
3708. — NUDELSUPPE. (Ribbon Macaroni Soup.)
Ingredients. — 1 quart of good clear brown stock, 4 ozs. of flour, 2
yolks of eggs.
Method. — Add a pinch of salt to the flour, mix into a stiff paste with
the yolks of eggs, and knead thoroughly for not less than 15 minutes.
Put the paste aside for \ an hour, then roll it out as thinly as possible,
divide into oblong pieces, place these on the top of each other, and cut
into strips like matches. Shake well to separate the strips, spread
them on white paper, and let them remain until dry. Have ready
the stock boiling, strained, and free from fat, drop in the nudels a
TYPICAL AUSTRIAN DISHES 1549
few at a time, boil them rapidly for about 10 minutes, then season the
soup to taste, and serve.
Time. — if hours. Average Cost, is. 3d. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
3709. — WIENER SCHNITZEL. (Fr. — Tranches Vien-
noise.)
Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of lean veal, eggs for frying, 1 or 2 lemons, clarified
butter, fillets of anchovies, gherkins, capers, egg and breadcrumbs,
brown sauce, pepper and salt.
Method. — Cut the meat across the grain into thin slices, beat with a
cutlet bat, trim them neatly, and season them with salt and pepper.
Coat the slices carefully with egg and breadcrumbs, and fry in hot
clarified butter until lightly browned on both sides. Fry the eggs in
clarified butter, or, if liked, good salad-oil, then drain them well,
and trim them neatly. Heat the sauce, season to taste, and add a
little lemon-juice. Dish the meat either in a circle or lengthwise on
a potato border, place the eggs on the meat, and on each egg arrange
2 or 3 small fillets of anchovies. Garnish the dish with slices of lemon,
fancifully cut gherkin, and capers. Serve a little sauce on the dish,
and the remainder in a sauce-boat.
Time. — f- of an hour. Average Cost, 3s. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
3710. — WIENER STEAKS. ( Fr .- — Filets Viennoise.)
Ingredients. — 2 lb. of lean beef, 3 ozs. of butter, 1 tablespoonful of
flour, 2 eggs, 2 onions, 1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley, 1 teaspoonful
of powdered savoury herbs, nutmeg, salt and pepper, brown sauce ( see
Sauces, No. 233).
Method. — Chop the meat finely or pass it twice through a mincing
machine. Add the parsley, herbs, a little nutmeg, salt and pepper,
mix well, and moisten with 1 whole egg and 1 yolk. Divide the pre-
parations into equal portions, and shape them neatly, giving them the
appearance or rather large fillets of beef, and roll them lightly in flour.
Peel and slice the onions, divide the larger slices into rings, and if onions
are liked, cut the smaller slices into large dice, fry them in a little hot
butter, and when well drained add them to the brown sauce. Fry the
prepared fillets in a little hot butter until nicely browned and suffi-
ciently cooked, then drain and keep them hot. Coat the onion rings
with flour, dip them into white of egg, then again into flour, and fry
in a wire basket in hot fat until crisp and lightly browned. Serve the
steaks garnished with the onion rings, pour a little sauce round, and
send the remainder to table in a sauce-boat.
Time. — 1 hour. Average Cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
ITALIAN COOKERY
CHAPTER LI 1 1
General Observations on Italian Cookery, and Recipes
for Typical Italian Dishes.
Cookery in Italy. — The Italians claim to have inherited their taste
and capabilities for good cooking from the luxurious Romans, who
were content to confer high honours, and give what appears to us
extravagantly high remuneration to those who could gratify their
inordinate and fantastic appetites. As a matter of fact, many dishes
favoured by the Romans are still common in Italy, where the culinary
art is said to have attained a high degree of perfection in the sixteenth
century. As regards high-class cookery, the reputation has to some
extent been maintained, but in other respects Italy has not kept pace
with France, Austria, Germany, and many other countries.
Travellers who gain their knowledge solely from hotels and restaur-
ants note little difference between Italian and French cookery, simply
because the Italians, like ourselves, have not only borrowed and
adapted much of the French cuisine, but also largely employ cooks of
that nation. Italian and French cooks alike are skilful in providing
a variety of vegetables in many tempting forms unknown to us. In
this branch of cookery the Italians may be said to excel, the delicious
flavour which characterises many of their vegetable preparations being
largely due to the introduction of chee'se. The Italians alone appear
to rightly understand the use of cheese. A dinner of many courses
may have in each course a dish of which cheese forms a part, yet though
the palate is pleased by the flavour it imparts, its presence is not sus-
pected. The Parmesan cheese, which the Italians principally use,
takes its name from the town of Parma, where it is made most exten-
sively. The dryness, the peculiar feature of Parmesan cheese, is secured
by removing every particle of cream from the milk before converting
it into cheese.
Polenta, risotto, and such farinaceous preparations as macaroni
and spaghetti, may be said to be national foods. Polenta in its most
simple form consists of milk thickened with Indian corn or maize
1550
TYPICAL ITALIAN DISHES
1551
meal, seasoned with salt, and cooked, frequently by baking, until
firm. It may be served sliced or neatly arranged on a dish, but the
Italians, nearly all of whom below a certain class have little regard
for the niceties of life, frequently serve the polenta on a wooden platter,
upon which it is turned when cooked. From this slices are cut off with
a string; for it is as much against etiquette to use a knife to polenta
as it is in England to use a steel knife for fish.
Risotto forms part of the daily fare of many Italians. Rice is its
principal ingredient, as will be seen from the recipe for Risotto alia
Milanese, No. 3744. Needless to say, the risotto of the poorer Italians
is a much more simple preparation than the one referred to, for it
often consists simply of well-cooked rice flavoured with a little onion
browned in oil or butter, and a good sprinkling of cheese.
Simple as the process is, it would appear that macaroni, spaghetti,
and similar preparations can only be cooked to perfection by the
Italians. The respective pastes are cooked to a certain point, then
drained, and thickened with white or tomato sauce, or a mixture of the
two, with the addition of a little cream and a touch of cheese. Prepared
by a skilful Italian cook, these dishes are perfect, and might with advan-
tage be more frequently employed to vary the monotony of the English
fare.
Their sauces, although distinctly flavoured with garlic, are delightful,
for the Italians alone appear to rightly understand the use of this bulb.
Tomato sauce made by an English cook, although it may be excellent
in many respects, always lacks that indescribable “ something ” which
the Italians impart to it.
Meals in Italy. — The brightness of the sun calls the Italians from their
rest at an early hour. Like the French, their early repast generally
consists simply of coffee or chocolate and rolls.
The Collazione, the midday meal of the upper classes, is almost identical
with the English luncheon or the French dejeuner a la fourchette,
while the simple meal of the poorer Italians frequently consists of
nothing more substantial than chocolate or fruit and bread.
Afternoon Tea, the dainty meal that is purely English, and which sel-
dom reaches perfection in any other country, is not unknown in Italy,
but it is rarely provided except for English friends or English visitors.
The hour of serving Pranzo, the evening meal, varies just as it does
in England or France, the masses partaking of it when their day’s
work is done, and the leisured classes at their convenience and
pleasure.
Food Supply. — The Italian lakes and rivers abound in almost every
variety of fish known to us, while on the south coast many kinds of
shell-fish peculiar to the country are found, and are usually eaten raw,
or cooked much in the same way as we do oysters.
The supply of game is both abundant and good. The Italians, like
ourselves, are very fond of pheasants, partridges, grouse, woodcock,
1552
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
etc., but they have also a great weakness for small birds, a taste pro-
bably hand d down from remote ages.
The kid, as in France, is very popular; it is dressed like lamb, the
brains, sweetbread and tongue all constituting delicate dishes.
Of fruit and vegetables there is an abundance. Grapes, peaches,
apricots, etc., may be had at a trifling cost, but although freshly
gathered, they possess little flavour, probably because they ripen more
rapidly than English-grown fruit.
Typical Italian Dishes
3711. — ARTICHOKES “ALLA MILANAISE.’’
(Fr.— Artichauts a la Milanaise.)
Ingredients. — Globe artichokes, Parmesan cheese, butter.
Method. — Remove the stalks and hard leaves, place the artichokes
in slightly salted boiling water, boil gently until half cooked, and drain
them well. Arrange them in a single layer in a fireproof baking-dish,
pour over them some oiled butter, sprinkle liberally with grated cheese,
and cover closely. Cook very gently in the oven until done, then
serve with oiled butter, or any suitable sailce.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost,4d. to 6d. each. Sufficient, allow
1 to each person. Seasonable from January to April.
3712. — ASPARAGUS “ ALLA CASALINGA.”
Ingredients. — Asparagus, fresh eggs, butter, grated Parmesan cheese,
salt and pepper.
Method. — Wipe, wash and trim the asparagus, boil it gently until three-
quarters cooked, and drain well. When ready, place it in an earthen-
ware dish, pour over it 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of oiled butter, and sprinkle
thickly with grated Parmesan cheese. Season with a little salt and
pepper, and cook in a moderately hot oven until well browned. Mean-
while, separate the yolks of eggs from the whites, taking care to keep
them whole, and fry them in hot butter, drain free from fat, place
them round the asparagus, and serve.
Time. — About 45 minutes. Average Cost, asparagus 4s. to ros. per
100. Sufficient, allow 1 egg and 10 heads of asparagus to each person.
Seasonable from January to July.
3713. — AUBERGINE “ AL FORNO.”
Ingredients. — 2 aubergines (egg-plant), butter, breadcrumbs, salt
and pepper.
TYPICAL ITALIAN DISHES
1553
Method. — Boil the aubergine from 25 to 30 minutes, or until tender,
then halve them lengthwise and remove the pulp carefully, so as not to
break the skin. Pass the pulp through a tine sieve, season to taste
with salt and pepper, and stir in a little oiled butter. Replace in the
skins, sprinkle lightly with breadcrumbs, add a few bits of butter,
and bake in a moderate oven until nicely browned.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 4d. each. Sufficient for 4 persons.
Seasonable from July to October.
3714. — BROAD BEANS “ALLA ROMANA.”
Ingredients. — 1 quart of young shelled broad beans, 4 or 5 tomatoes
or I,- a tin of tomato puree, 1 small onion finely-chopped, 4 or 5 sage
leaves finely-chopped, 2 ozs. of butter, salt and pepper.
Method. — Fry the onion and sage leaves in hot butter for a few
minutes, then put in the beans with just sufficient boiling water to
cover them, add a little salt and pepper, and cook gently until tender.
When about half cooked add the tomato puree, fresh tomatoes being
passed through a fine sieve to reduce them to a pulp, and stir frequently
towards the end of the cooking process, to prevent the beans sticking
to the bottom of the pan. Dish up and serve hot.
Time. — About f- anhour. Average Cost, is. id. to is. 6d. Sufficient for
6 persons. Seasonable, July to August.
3715. — BROCCOLI “ALLA PARMIGIANA.”
Ingredients. — Broccoli, 1 small onion finely-chopped, 4 ozs. of grated
Parmesan cheese, \ an oz. of butter, -J- a pint of white sauce ( see
Sauces, No. 221), 1 yolk of egg, breadcrumbs, cayenne, pepper and salt.
Pdethod. — Boil the broccoli in salted water until tender, then drain
them well. Fry the onion in the butter without browning, add the
white sauce, and when boiling stir in -1- the cheese and the yolk of egg.
Season to taste with cayenne, pepper and salt, and stir over the fire
for a few minutes. Spread a little of the sauce on the bottom of a fire-
proof baking-dish, arrange the broccoli compactly on the top of it,
cover with the remaining sauce, sprinkle on the rest of the cheese
mixed with a few white breadcrumbs, and bake in a moderate oven
until lightly browned.
Time. — 40 to 60 minutes. Average Cost, iod. to is. Sufficient for 4
or 5 persons. Seasonable, October to March.
3716. — BRUSSELS SPROUTS “ AL SIMONE.”
(Fr. — Choux de Bruxelles.)
Ingredients. — if to 2 lbs. of sprouts, 3 ozs. of butter, i f ozs. of flour,
f- a pint of stock or milk, 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon juice, 1 dessert-
spoonful of grated Parmesan cheese, salt and pepper,
1554
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Trim and wash the sprouts, boil them in salted water until
tender, and drain well. Heat the butter in a stewpan, fry the flour
for a few minutes without browning, then add the stock and stir until
boiling, Season to taste with salt and pepper, add the cheese and lemon
juice, put in the sprouts, and shake over the fire until thoroughly hot.
Time. — 20 to 25 minutes. Average Cost, iod. to is. Sufficient for 5
or 6 persons. Seasonable, September to February.
37i7. — CABBAGE “ AL FGRNO.”
Ingredients. — 1 large or 2 small cabbages, } a pint of white sauce ( see
Sauces, No. 221), 1 or 2 tablespoonfuls of grated cheese, breadcrumbs,
butter, salt and pepper.
Method. — Boil the cabbage until tender, then chop it coarsely. Place
a layer at the bottom of a fireproof baking-dish, cover lightly with
white sauce, sprinkle liberally with cheese, and season rather highly
with salt and pepper. Repeat until the dish is full, cover the top
with a thin layer of breadcrumbs, and add a few bits of butter. Bake
in a moderate oven for \ an hour. Dish up and serve hot.
Time. — 1 to 1 J hours. Average Cost, is. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
37 j g — CABBAGE “ FARCITO ALL’ AMERICANA.”
Ingredients. — 1 large fresh cabbage, \ a lb. of cooked rice, a lb. of
finely-chopped cooked meat, 1 ter spoonful of finely-chopped parsley,
1 a teaspoonful of powdered mixed herbs, 4 of a teaspoonful of finely-
grated lemon-rind, salt and pepper, \ a pint of brown sauce ( see
Sauces, No 233).
Method. — Thoroughly wash the cabbage, put it into a saucepan of
boiling salted water, boil for 15 minutes, then change the water, and
continue to boil for about } an hour longer. Mix the boiled rice and
prepared meat together, add the parsley, herbs, lemon-rind, and a good
seasoning of salt and pepper, and mix well, moistening with a little stock
or milk if necessary. Dry the cabbage thoroughly, open the leaves,
and press a little of the preparation into each space. Enclose the
stuffed cabbage in a large sheet of greased paper, and bake in a moderate
oven from 35 to 45 minutes, basting from time to time with hot fat.
Serve with brown sauce.
Time. About hours. Average Cost, is. 6d. Sufficient for 5 or 6
persons. Seasonable at any time.
on IQ. — CAULIFLOWER “ IN STUFATO.”
(. Fr . — Choufleur farci.)
Ingredients. — 1 large or 2 small cauliflowers, 6 finely-chopped mush-
rooms, 2 ozs. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, 3 yolks of eggs, 1 tablespoonful
TYPICAL ITALIAN DISHES 1555
of lemon-juice, £ of a pint of stock or milk, nutmeg, salt and pepper,
rounds of buttered toast.
Method. — Break the cauliflower into medium-sized sprays, boil them
in salted water until tender, and drain well. Meanwhile heat the
butter in a stewpan, fry the flour for 3 or 4 minutes, then add the stock
or milk, and stir until boiling. Season to taste with nutmeg, salt and
pepper, add the mushrooms, and simmer gently for a few minutes.
Beat the yolks of eggs slightly, add the strained lemon-juice, mix with
the contents of the stewpan, and stir by the side of the fire until the
sauce thickens, but do not allow it to reboil, or the eggs may curdle.
Arrange the sprays of cauliflower compactly on the prepared toast,
pour the sauce over, and serve.
Time. — About \ an hour. Average Cost, is. 4d. to is. 6d. Sufficient
for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable, March to November.
3720. — CELERY “ AL FRITTO.” (Fr.— Celeri frit.)
Ingredients. — 1 head of celery, egg and breadcrumbs, frying-fat.
Method. — Remove the outer stalks, wash the remainder of the celery,
and cut it into pieces about 1 inch square. Place in boiling salted
water, cook for l an hour, then drain well. Coat carefully with egg
and breadcrumbs, fry in hot fat until lightly browned, drain well, and
serve.
Time. — About 40 minutes. Average Cost, 5d. to 6d. Sufficient for 2 or
3 persons. Seasonable, September to February.
3721. — CELERY “ ALLA PARMIGIANA.”
( Fr . — Celeri au Fromage.)
Ingredients. — 4 heads of celery, stock, grated Parmesan cheese, bread-
crumbs, butter, salt and pepper.
Method. — Remove the outer stalks and the green part of the inner
ones, divide each head into quarters, and wash them well. Cover with
boiling stock, or failing this, boiling water and a little ham or lean bacon,
season to taste, boil until tender, and drain well. Place a single layer
of celery at the bottom of a fireproof baking-dish, sprinkle liberally
with cheese, add a little seasoning, and repeat until the dish is full.
Sprinkle the surface thickly with equal parts of cheese and breadcrumbs,
and pour over 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of oiled butter. Bake in a moderate
oven until well browned, then serve.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, celery 3d. per head. Sufficient for
8 or 10 persons. Seasonable, September to February.
3722. — COD, ALLA NAPOLETANA.
(Fr. — Cabillaud a la Napolitaine.)
Ingredients. — 6 slices of small cod, 4 ozs. of butter, 12 button mush-
rooms, preferably fresh ones, a bouquet of mixed herbs, J of a pint of
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1556
Marsala. For the sauce : 2 ozs. of finely-chopped raw ham, f of an oz.
of butter, 2 shallots finely-chopped, 4 button mushrooms finely-chopped,
1 clove, 1 bay-leaf, £ of a pint of Marsala, £ of a pint of good stock,
£ of a pint of brown sauce, £ of a pint of tomato sauce (see Sauces, Nos.
233 and 282).
Method. — Let the slices of cod lie in salt and water for 1 hour, then
drain and dry well. Heat the butter in a large stewpan, fry the cod
until lightly browned on both sides, add the 12 mushrooms, the herbs,
and the £ of a pint of Marsala, cover, and cook gently from 15 to 20
minutes, or until the fish is sufficiently cooked. Meanwhile, fry the
ham, shallots and mushrooms in £ of an oz. of butter slowly for
10 minutes, then add the Marsala, stock, clove and bay-leaf, and boil
rapidly. When reduced to about half the original quantity add the
brown and tomato sauces, make thoroughly hot, then strain and serve
in a sauce-boat. Dish up the fish and serve with the sauce.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, 4s. to 4s. 6d. Sufficient for 5 or
6 persons. Seasonable from September to February.
3723.— CROQUETTES OF CHESTNUTS.
(Fr. — Croquettes de Marrons.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of chestnuts, £ of a pint of cream, £ of a pint of
creme patisserie (see No. 1738), essence of vanilla, castor sugar, egg
and breadcrumbs, frying-fat.
Method. — Peel and scald the chestnuts, take off the inside peel, boil
them until tender, and pass through a sieve. Put the chestnut puree
into a small stewpan, stir in the cream and creme patisserie, mix well
over the fire, then add vanilla essence to taste, and turn the preparation
on a plate to cool. When firm enough to handle, form into cork -shaped
croquettes, coat carefully with egg and breadcrumbs, and fry in hot
fat. Drain well, and serve sprinkled with castor sugar.
Time. — About i£ hours. Average Cost, is. 3d. Sufficient for 5 or
6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
5724. — CUCUMBERS “ FARCITI.” (Fr— Concombres
ferais.)
Ingredients. — 2 medium-sized cucumbers, 2 tablespoonfuls of finely-
chopped cooked chicken or veal, 1 tablespoonful of finely-chopped
cooked ham, 1 tablespoonful of breadcrumbs, 1 egg, salt and pepper,
brown breadcrumbs, stock, brown sauce (see Sauces, No. 233).
Method. — Remove the peel as thinly as possible, divide the cucumbers
in halves, and scoop out the seeds. Mix the meat, ham, breadcrumbs
and a little salt and pepper well together, moisten witli 1 egg, and fill
the cavities of the cucumbers with the preparation, piling it rather high
in the centre. Sprinkle thickly with brown breadcrumbs, place them
TYPICAL ITALIAN DISHES
1557
in a baking-tin, surround them to half their depth with stock, and bake
until tender, adding more stock from time to time. Serve with brown
sauce.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 2s. to 2s. 3d. Sufficient, 6 to 8
persons. Seasonable, May to September.
3725. — FRENCH BEANS “ ALLA CREMA.”
( Fr . — Haricots verts a la Creme.)
Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of French beans, 2 ozs. of butter, 1 egg, L of a pint
of cream or milk, 1 dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, grated cheese,
nutmeg, salt and pepper.
Method. — String the beans, cover them with boiling slightly-salted
water, boil until three-quarters cooked, and drain well. Heat the
butter in a stewpan, add the beans and let them cook slowdy until done,
shaking frequently meanwhile. Beat the egg, stir in about 1 dessert-
spoonful of cheese, nutmeg, salt and pepper to taste, and the lemon-
juice. Stir or shake over the fire for a few minutes, then serve.
Time. — 20 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, beans 6d. per lb. Sufficient
for 6 persons. Seasonable, July to October.
3726. — HARICOT BEANS “ ALLA MILANESE.”
( Fr . — haricots a la Milanaise.)
Ingredients. — 1 quart of green haricot beans, 3 ozs. of butter, 1 dessert-
spoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice,
salt and pepper.
Method. — Boil the beans in salted water until tender, and drain them
well. Heat the butter in a stewpan, add the parsley, lemon-juice and
a good seasoning of salt and pepper, put in the beans, and shake them
over the fire until thoroughly hot. Dried beans may be used instead
of fresh ones, in which case they must be soaked for at least 12 hours.
Time. — 30 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, is. 3d. to is. 6d. Sufficient
for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable, May to August.
3727. — HARICOT BEANS “ ALLA ROMANA.”
( Fr . — Haricots blancs a la Romaine.)
Ingredients. — 1 quart of small dried haricot beans, 3 ozs. of butter,
1 tablespoonful of finely-chopped lean ham or bacon, either raw or
cooked, 1 large onion cut into small dice, J of a pint of stock or milk,
1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, nutmeg, salt and pepper.
Method. — Soak the beans for at least 12 hours, cook them in salted
water until tender, then drain well. Heat the butter in a stewpan,
fry the onion until lightly browned, then add the ham or bacon, and
cook for 2 or 3 minutes longer. Now put in the stock or milk, add a
1558
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
good pinch of nutmeg, salt and pepper to taste, and stir in the beans.
Shake over the fire until thoroughly hot, then serve.
Time.— From i to ij hours. Average Cost, is. to is. 2d. Sufficient
for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable, May to August.
3728. — ITALIAN MACARONI PIE.
Ingredients. — £- of a lb. of cold beef, or mutton. \ an onion, 3 or 4
tomatoes, £ of a lb. of macaroni, breadcrumbs, grated cheese, stock,
salt, pepper, nutmeg.
Method. — Cut the beef or mutton into thin slices, peel the onion and
slice it thinly, slice the tomatoes, and boil the macaroni in slightly
salted water until tender. Cool and drain the macaroni, and cut it
up into small pieces. Line a buttered baking dish with macaroni and
arrange the meat, onion and tomato slices in layers on the baking
dish. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, pour over a little stock,
and cover the top with macaroni. Sprinkle over some breadcrumbs
and grated cheese, and bake for about 30 minutes in a hot oven.
Time. — To bake, 20 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. Sufficient for 4 or
5 persons. Seasonable at any time.
3729. — LARKS IN ONIONS.
(Fr. — Mauviettes aux Oignons.)
Ingredients. — 12 larks, 6 Spanish onions of equal size, £ a lb. of veal
forcemeat (see Forcemeats, No. 413), 2 or 3 fowls’ livers, 3 or 4 slices of
bacon, 1 pint of stock (about), £ of a teaspoonful of powdered mixed
herbs, salt and pepper, brown sauce (see Sauces, No. 233), glaze.
Method. — Blanch the fowls’ livers, chop them finely, add the herbs,
season to taste with salt and pepper, and moisten with a little stock.
Clean and bone the larks, and stuff them with the prepared forcemeat.
Cover the bottom of a stewpan with slices of bacon, place the larks on
them, just cover with stock, and cook gently for about 15 minutes.
Meanwhile peel and blanch the onions, dry them thoroughly, and cut
them in halves across. Remove the greater part of the inside, spread
a good layer of the forcemeat, and place 1 lark in each case thus pre-
pared. Cover with a buttered paper, and bake in a moderate oven for
about £ an hour, then glaze and serve with brown sauce.
Time. — About i£ hours. Average Cost, 4s. 6d. to 5s. 6d. Sufficient
for 10 or 12 persons. Seasonable at any time.
3y30 — LEEKS “ AL FORNO.” (Fr— Poireaux.)
Ingredients. — From 12 to 18 leeks, 2 ozs. of butter, 1 dessertspoonful
of grated cheese, 1 yolk of egg, d a pint of hot white sauce ( see Sauces),
salt and pepper.
TYPICAL ITALIAN DISHES
1559-
Method, — Trim the leeks, divide them into pieces about 2 inches long,
and let them remain in cold water for 1 hour. Have ready a saucepan
of salted boiling water, cook the leeks until tender, and again immerse
them in cold water. Let them remain for at least 1 hour, then drain
and dry thoroughly, and place them in an earthenware baking-dish.
Heat the butter in a stewpan, drain and add the leeks, cook gently
for 10 minutes, then add the hot white sauce, cheese, yolk of egg, and a
good seasoning of salt and pepper. Mix well, pour over the leeks,
and bake in a moderate oven until brown.
Time. — 3-J- hours. Average Cost, is. 9d. to 2s. 3d. Sufficient for 6 to
9 persons. Seasonable at any time.
3731. — LETTUCE SOUP. (Fr. — Soupe aux Laitues.)
Ingredients. — 3 pints of stock, 1 or 2 heads of lettuce, according to
size, 2 tablespoonfuls of rice, 1 dessertspoonful of grated Parmesan
cheese, salt and pepper.
Method. — Remove the outer leaves, separate the rest, wash them
well, and shred them finely. Wash the rice, put it into the stock when
boiling, and season to taste. Boil gently for 10 minutes, then add the
prepared lettuce gradually, so as not to reduce the temperature of the
stock below boiling point, and continue to cook slowly for 20 minutes
longer. Add the cheese, and serve.
Time.- — About \ an hour. Average Cost, qd., exclusive of the stock.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 perons. Seasonable at any time.
3732. — LOMBARD SOUP. (Zuppa Lombarda.)
( Fr . — Potage ala Lombardoise.)
Ingredients. — 2 ozs. of finely-chopped suet, 2 ozs. of fowl’s liver, 2 ozs.
of lamb’s sweetbread, 2 ozs. of mushrooms, 1 teaspoonful of finely-
chopped truffle, 1 egg, spinach puree, lobster spawn, 2 tablespooniuls
of cooked tips of asparagus, 2 tablespoonfuls of cooked green peas,
2 quarts of boiling consomme, salt and pepper.
Method. —Pound the liver, suet, sweetbread, and mushrooms until
smooth, adding the egg gradually, season to taste, and pass through
a sieve. Add the truffle, divide the forcemeat into 3 equal portions,
add a little lobster spawn to one, colour the second green with spinach
puree, and leave the third plain. Form into small quenelles, and poach
in a little boiling stock until firm. Drain and place in a soup tureen,
put in the asparagus tips and the peas, pour in the consomme, and
serve.
Time. — f of an hour. Average Cost, 2s. to 2s. 6d., exclusive of the
| consomme. Sufficient for 10 or 12 persons. Seasonable at any time.
1560 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
3733. — MACARONI “ AL LATTE.” (Fr.— Macaroni
au Fromage.)
Ingredients. — f- of a lb. of macaroni, 3 J ozs. of butter, \ an oz. of flour,
1 ozs. of grated Parmesan cheese, 1 oz. of grated Gruyere cheese,
i\ pints of milk, breadcrumbs, salt and pepper.
Method. — Parboil the macaroni in salted water, then drain it well.
Melt 2 ozs. of butter in a stewpan, stir and cook the flour for 3 or 4
minutes, add the milk, and stir until boiling. Season to taste, put
in the Gruyere cheese and macaroni, cook gently until the milk is nearly
absorbed, then stir in the grated Parmesan cheese and the remaining
butter. Turn into a well-buttered baking-dish, cover lightly with
breadcrumbs, add a few bits of butter, and bake in a moderate oven
until nicely browned.
Time. — About 45 minutes. Average Cost, is. to is. 3d. Sufficient
for 4 or 3 persons. Seasonable at any time.
3734. — MACARONI “ ALLA NAPOLETANA.”
(Fr. — Macaroni a la Napolitaine.)
Ingredients. — f of a lb. of macaroni, J of a lb. of grated Parmesan
cheese, \ an oz. of tongue shredded, 6 mushrooms shredded, 2 truffles
shredded, \ a pint of tomato sauce, \ a pint of white sauce (see Sauces,
Nos. 282 and 222).
Method. — Boil the macaroni in salted water until tender, and drain
it well. Place it in a stewpan with the white and tomato sauces,
add the prepared cheese, truffles and mushrooms, shake over the
fire for about 10 minutes, then serve.
Time.— About \ an hour. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for 4 or 5
persons. Seasonable at any time.
3735. — PEAS “ ALL’ ANTICA.” (Fr. — Pois aux
Laitues.)
Ingredients. — 1 quart of young shelled peas, 1 head of crisp lettuce,
4 ozs. of butter, 1 yolk of egg, } a pint of water, £ of a pint of cream
or milk, castor sugar, salt.
Method. — Wash and tie up the lettuce, put it into a stewpan with the
peas, butter, water and a little salt, cook from 15 to 20 minutes, or
until the peas are tender, then remove the lettuce and keep it hot.
Mix the yolk of egg and cream together, add the preparation to the
contents of the stewpan, season to taste with salt and pepper, and put
in a good pinch of sugar. Slir over the fire for 2 or 3 minutes, then
pour over the lettuce, and serve.
Time. — About } an hour. Average Cost, is. 9d. to 2s. 6d, Sufficient
for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable, August to September.
TYPICAL ITALIAN DISHES 1561
3736. — PEAS “ AL BUON GUSTO.” (Fr.— Petits *
Pois au Beurre.)
Ingredients. — 1 quart of shelled peas, 1+ ozs. of butter, \ an oz. of
flour, 3 slices of onion, {- of a pint of stock, salt and pepper.
Method. — Parboil the peas in salted water, and drain them well.
Fry the slices of onion in the butter until brown, then take them out
and stir in the flour. Cook gently for 3 or 4 minutes, then put in the
peas, add a seasoning of salt and pepper, and stir gently for about 10
minutes. Add the stock, cover closely, and let the pan stand by the
side of the fire until the peas are tender, stirring occasionally, but very
gently, as the peas should be kept whole.
Time. — 30 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, is. 3d. to 2s. Sufficient for
5 or 6 persons. Seasonable, August to September.
3737. — PHEASANT ALLA NAPOLETANA.
(Fr. — Faisan a la Napolitaine.)
Ingredients. — 1 pheasant, larding bacon, 8 ozs. of macaroni, 6 ozs. of
grated Parmesan cheese, 2 ozs. of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of tomato
puree, \ a pint of good gravy (see Gravies), Napolitana sauce (see Cod,
alia Napoletana, No. 37 22), salt and pepper.
Method. — Parboil the macaroni, drain it well, replace it in the stew-
pan with the butter and gravy, and cook slowly until tender. Season
to taste, add the tomato puree and cheese, and make thoroughly hot.
Meanwhile lard the breast of the pheasant in close rows, roast it in
front of the fire from f- to 1 J hours, according to size, then divide it
into neat joints. Turn the macaroni on to a hot dish, arrange the
pheasant on the top of it, and serve the sauce separately.
Time. — To cook, from | to i|- hours. Average Cost, pheasant, from
3s. 6d. Sufficient, 4 to 6 persons. Seasonable, October to February.
3738. — POLENTA “ ALLA BOLOGNA.”
Ingredients. — 3 or 4 sausages, 1 lb. of Indian corn meal, 1 pint of
boiling water, J of a pint of tomato puree, grated Paimiesan cheese,
butter, salt and pepper, breadcrumbs.
Method. — Stir the polenta gradually into the boiling water, add salt
to taste, stir until smooth, and let it cool. Put the sausages into boiling
water, cook them for 10 minutes, and when cool, remove the skins
and cut them into slices. Place a layer of polenta at the bottom of a
fireproof baking-dish, cover with a layer of sausages, add a little tomato
puree, a good sprinkling of cheese, and a seasoning of salt and pepper.
Repeat until the dish is full, cover lightly with breadcrumbs, add a few
bits of butter, bake in a moderate oven for about \ an hour, and serve
hot.
Time. — From 50 to 60 minutes. Average Cost, hs. to is. 3d. Sufficient
for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.
1562 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
3739. — POLENTA “ ALLA PARMIGIANA.”
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of Indian corn meal, 1 pint of boiling water, grated
Parmesan cheese, oiled butter, salt.
Method. — Stir the meal, a little at a time, into the boiling water,
add salt to taste, cook over the fire until perfectly smooth, then spread
on a dish in a layer about f an inch thick. When quite cold cut into
strips or small squares, pile in layers on a buttered baking-dish, sprinkle
each layer liberally with cheese, pour 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of oiled
butter over the whole, and bake for about -l- an hour in a moderate oven.
Serve hot.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, 6d. to 9d. Sufficient for 3 or
4 persons. Seasonable at any time.
3740. — POLENLINA “ ALLA VENEZIANA.”
Ingredients. — 2 tablespoonfuls of Indian corn meal, 3 ozs. of butter,
2\ pints of milk, salt and pepper, fried croutons.
Method. — Mix the meal smoothly with a little cold milk, stir it into
the rest of the milk when quite boiling, and continue to stir and cook
for 20 minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste, stir in the butter, a
small piece at a time, and serve with the fried croutons.
Time. — About \ an hour. Average Cost, iod. Sufficient for 5 or 6
persons. Seasonable at any time.
3741. — PUREE “ALLA SOUBISE.” (Fr.— Puree
d’Cignons.)
Ingredients. — 4 Spanish onions, \ a pint of haricot beans, 3 ozs. of
butter, stock, nutmeg, salt and pepper, fried croutons.
Method. — Boil the haricot beans until tender, and rub them through
a fine sieve. Cut the onions into dice, fry them in butter until soft,
but without browning, then pass them through a sieve. Place both
onion and haricot purees in a stewpan, add a pinch of nutmeg, a season-
ing of salt and pepper, and dilute gradually with stock until the desired
consistency is attained. Boil gently until quite smooth, then serve
with croutons of fried bread.
Time. — About ij hours. Average Cost, iod. to is. Sufficient for
5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
3742. — RICE “ALLA CASALINGA.” (Fr— Riz au
Jambon.)
Ingredients. — a lb. of rice, J of a lb. of lean ham or bacon cut into
dice, 1 oz. of butter, if pints of stock, £ of a pint of tomato puree.
TYPICAL ITALIAN DISHES
1563
Method. — Wash the rice, put it into salted boiling water, boil rapidly
for 7 minutes, then strain and let it cool. Heat the butter in a stewpan,
fry the ham or bacon slightly, then add the stock and bring to boiling
point. Season to taste, put in the rice, cook gently until the stock is
absorbed, then stir in the tomato puree, make thoroughly hot, and
serve garnished with fried sausages.
Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. to is. gd. Sufficient
for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.
3743. — RICE “ALLA TOMATO.” (Fr. — Riz aux
Tomates.)
Ingredients. — 8 ozs. of rice, \ a pint of tomato puree, 2 tablespoonfuls
of breadcrumbs, 1 small onion finely-chopped, 2 ozs. of butter, 1 egg,
1 yolk of egg, 1 pint of milk, salt and pepper.
Method. — Wash the rice, put it into a large saucepan of salted boiling
water, boil rapidly for 6 or 7 minutes, then strain. Have the milk
ready boiling in a stewpan, put in the rice, season to taste with salt
and pepper, and cook gently until the milk is absorbed. Mix in half
the butter and the egg, stir over the tire for a few minutes, then pile
on a dish in the form of a circular or oval border. Smooth with a hot
wet knife, brush over with yolk of egg, and brown in a moderate oven.
In the meantime heat the remaining butter, fry the onion until lightly
browned, add the tomato puree and breadcrumbs, and season to taste.
Stir over the fire until thoroughly hot, and serve in the centre of the
rice border.
Time. -About 1 hour. Average Cost, is. to is. 6d. Sufficient for
3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.
3744. — RISOTTO “ ALLA MILANESE.” (Fr.—Riz
a la Milanaise.)
Ingredients. — 6 ozs. of rice, 2 ozs. of butter, i-J- ozs. of grated Parmesan
cheese, 1 small onion finely-chopped, 6 button mushrooms finely-
chopped, 3 pints of stock, salt and pepper.
Method. — Wash, drain and thoroughly dry the rice. Heat the
butter, fry the onion brown, add the rice and stir over the fire for a few
minutes. Add half the stock, boil quickly for 20 minutes, then cover
the pan closely and let the contents cook slowly. Add the remaining
stock by degrees, and when nearly the whole of it is absorbed, stir in
the cheese, and season to taste. Stir over the fire for a few minutes,
then serve. It liked, grated cheese may be served separately.
Time. About 1 hour. Average Cost, 8d., exclusive of the stock.
Sufficient for 2 or 3 persons. Seasonable at any time.
1564 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
3745. SALAD “ ALLA FRANCESE.” (Fr.— Salade
Franqaise.)
Ingredients. — 9 small firm tomatoes, \ a head of celery, 2 tablespoon-
fuls of stiffly-whipped cream, x tablespoonful of tomato puree, 1 table-
spoonful of lemon-juice, a pinch of castor sugar, lettuce.
Method. — Pour boiling water over the tomatoes, let them remain for
2 minutes, then remove the skins, and scoop out the seeds. Place
them on ice or in a cool place until quite cold, and meanwhile shred the
celery finely, and mix with it the lemon-juice, sugar, tomatS puree
and cream. Fill the centre of each tomato with this preparation,
piling it rather high, arrange the tomatoes on a dish on a bed of shredded
lettuce, then serve.
3746. — SALAD “ALL’ ITALIANA.” (Fr.— Salade
Italienne.)
Ingredients. — 1 large carrot sliced, 1 turnip sliced, 2 large cold boiled
potatoes sliced, 1 beetroot cut into strips, 1 finely-chopped shallot,
| of a pint of mayonnaise sauce, No. 201, or stiffly-whipped cream
flavoured with lemon-juice or vinegar, watercress.
Method. — Cook the slices of carrot and turnip in a little stock until
tender, drain them well, and when quite cold mix with the prepared
potato and beetroot. Add the shallot, stir in the mayonnaise of
cream, garnish with watercress, then serve.
Time. — From 1 to ij- hours. Average Cost, 9d. Sufficient for 5 or 6
persons. Seasonable at any time.
3747. — SALAD “ALLA MACEDONE.” (Fr.— Salade
a la Macedoine.)
Ingredients. — 1 cooked beetroot cut into dice, 3 tablespoonfuls of
cooked French beans, 3 tablespoonfuls of cooked peas, 1 cooked carrot
shredded, \ a head of celery shredded, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice,
mayonnaise sauce.
Method. — Cook the vegetables separately, taking care to keep them
unbroken. When quite cold mix them well together, sprinkle in the
lemon-juice, stir in the mayonnaise as lightly as possible, then serve.
Time. — 20 minutes. Average Cost, is. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Seasonable, July to October.
3748. — SPINACH CROQUETTES. (Fr. — Croquettes
d’Epinards.)
Ingredients. — 4 or 5 lbs. of spinach, 3 ozs. of butter, 2 eggs, nutmeg,
salt and pepper, frying batter {see Apple Fritters, p. 979), frying-fat.
Method. — Wash and pick the spinach, put it into a saucepan with just
sufficient water to prevent it burning at the bottom, and cook until
TYPICAL ITALIAN DISHES
i565
tender. Drain well, chop finely, and if convenient, pass it through a
sieve. Place it in a stewpan with the butter, add a good pinch of nut-
meg, and salt and pepper to taste. Stir over the fire until hot, then add
the eggs previously beaten, and continue to stir and cook until the
puree thickens. When quite cold, form the preparation into cork-
shapcd pieces, dip them into the pi'epared batter, and fry in hot fat
until crisp and lightly browned. Drain well, and serve as hot as
possible.
Time. — From 2\ to 3 hours. Average Cost, is. 3d. Sufficient for 5
or 6 persons. Seasonable, March to December.
3749. — SPINACH “ IN RICCIOLI.” (Fr. — Rissolettes
d’Epinards.)
Ingredients. — 3 eggs, spinach puree ( see Spinach Croquettes, No.
3748), olive-oil, butter, grated Parmesan cheese, salt and pepper.
Method. — Beat the eggs well, mix with them enough spinach to make
them green, and season to taste. Heat a little oil in a small frying-
pan, cover the bottom with a very thin layer of the egg preparation,
fry lightly, then toss or turn and cook the other side. Repeat, and
when all is fried, place the pancakes one above the other, and cut them
into sections or wide strips. Fry them lightly in hot butter, and serve
sprinkled with cheese.
Time. — \ an hour. Average Cost, is. 6d. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Seasonable, March to December.
3750. — SPINACH PUDDING. (Fr. — Pouding
aux ’Epinards.)
Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of spinach, \ a lb. of veal forcemeat, 2 ozs. of butter,
3 yolks of eggs, £ of a pint of Bechamel sauce. No. 177, salt and
pepper, brown sauce (see Sauces, No. 233).
Method. — Pick and wash the spinach, boil until tender in a saucepan
with just sufficient water at the bottom to prevent it burning, then
chop finely, and pass through a sieve. Heat the butter in a stewpan,
add the spinach puree, yolks of eggs and Bechamel sauce, and season
to taste. Stir over the fire until the mixture thickens slightly, then
let it cool, and add the forcemeat. Turn into a well-buttered mould,
cover with a buttered paper, and steam gently from 35 to 45 minutes.
Unmould, and serve with good brown sauce.
Time. — About i-|- hours. Average Cost, is. 9d. to 2s. 3d. Sufficient
for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable, March to December.
3751- — SPINACH SOUFFLE. (Fr. — Souffle d’Epinard.)
Ingredients. — \ a pint of spinach puree, 3 whites of eggs, 2 yolks of
eggs, salt and pepper.
1566
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Prepare the puree as directed in the recipe for Spinach Cro-
quettes, No. 3748. After passing through the sieve, place it in a small
stewpan, season to taste, then add the yolks of eggs, and stir over the
fire until the puree thickens. Let it become quite cold, add the whites
of eggs stiffly-whisked, stir them in as lightly as possible, and half fill
china or paper ramakin cases with the preparation. Bake in a hot oven
until set, then serve as quickly as possible.
Time. — To bake, about 10 minutes. Average Cost, 8d. Sufficient
for 6 or 8 ramakins. Seasonable, March to December.
3752. — TOMATOES “ ALL’ INDIANA.”
(Fr. — Tomates a l’lndienne.)
Ingredients.— 10 ozs. of rice, f- of a pint of tomato puree (either tinned
or made by passing tomatoes through a fine sieve), breadcrumbs,
butter, salt and pepper.
Method. — Wash the rice, put it into a large saucepan of salted boiling
water, boil rapidly for 10 minutes, then drain well. Put a layer of
rice at the bottom of a well-buttered baking-dish, cover with tomato
puree, and season with salt and pepper. Repeat the layers, cover the
surface rather thickly with breadcrumbs, and add a few bits of butter.
Bake in a moderate oven for 40 minutes, and serve in the dish.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, is. to is. 3d. Sufficient for
4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.
3753. — TOMATOES “AL PANE.” (Fr.— Baked
Tomates.)
Ingredients. — 6 or 8 firm tomatoes, breadcrumbs, butter, salt and
pepper.
Method. — Slice the tomatoes rather thickly, place them in a fireproof
dish with alternate layers of breadcrumbs, each layer being liberally
seasoned with salt and pepper, and the breadcrumbs well moistened
with oiled butter. Let the top layer consist of breadcrumbs moistened
with butter. Bake in a moderately hot oven from 35 to 40 minutes,
and serve in the dish.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, is. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
3754. — TOMATOES “ CON NOVA.” (Fr.— Tomates
au, Fromage.)
Ingredients. — 4 firm tomatoes, an equal number of fresh eggs, cooked
spaghetti, white sauce, grated Parmesan cheese, salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut off the tops of the tomatoes, scoop out the greater part
of the pulp, season well with salt and pepper, and break 1 egg into each.
TYPICAL ITALIAN DISHES
1567
Replace the tops, place the tomatoes in a baking-dish, and cook gently
until the eggs are set. Heat the white sauce, add the cooked spaghetti,
cheese, salt and pepper to taste, and make thoroughly hot. Place the
spaghetti in a hot dish, dish the tomatoes on the top, then serve.
Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, is. qd. Sufficient tor 4
persons. Seasonable at any time.
3755. — TURBOT “ ALL’ ITALIANA.”
(Fr. — Turbot a l’ltalienne.)
Ingredients. — 1 medium-sized turbot, button mushrooms cooked and
glazed, prawns, truffles, 1 pint of Allemande sauce (see Sauces, No. 174),
2 tablespoonfuls of puree of tomatoes, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped
parsley, 1 dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, butter, salt and pepper.
Method. — Let the turbot lie for 1 hour in salt and water, then rub
the white side with cut lemon, put it in a pan with seasoned water, and
cook gently till done. Make the Allemande sauce as directed, add the
tomato puree, parsley and lemon-juice, and stir in a few bits of butter
just before serving. When ready, drain the fish well, serve garnished with
mushrooms, prawns and slices of truffle, and hand the sauce separately.
Time. — From 35 to 45 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. per lb. Sufficient
for 12 persons Seasonable at any time.
3756. — TURKEY “ ALLA MILANESE.”
{Fr. — Dinde a la Milanaise.)
Ingredients. — 1 turkey, \ a lb. of sausages, a pint of chestnuts boiled
and peeled, 8 French prunes scalded, halved and the stones removed,
4 pears pared and quartered, 1 glass of white wine, slices of bacon,
butter, pepper and salt.
Method. — Parboil the sausages, and when cool remove the skins and
cut into slices. Heat from \\ to 2 ozs. of butter in a stewpan, put in the
chestnuts, prunes and pears, and add the liver of the turkey, previously
blanched and coarsely chopped. Fry gently for a few minutes, then
drain well from the butter, add the wine, and stuff the breast of the
turkey with this preparation. Cover the breast with slices of hot
bacon, baste well with hot butter or fat, and cook in a moderate oven
for about 2 hours, basting frequently.
Time. — To cook, from i£ to 2 hours. Average Cost, Turkey, from
6s. 6d. Sufficient, a small turkey, 8 persons. Seasonable from September
to February.
3757. — VENETIAN SOUP. (Brodetto Veneziano.)
This is a rich beef broth, mixed with beaten yolks of eggs, lemon-
juice and served with thinly cut slices of French rolls, previously
baked.
Spanish Cookery
CHAPTER LIV
General Observations on Spanish Cookery, with Recipes
for typical Spanish Dishes.
The food supply of Spain as regards meat and fish is less abundant
than that of many other European countries. Little pasturage is to be
found in the entire breadth of the country, consequently dairy products
are scarce and butter is almost unknown. The flesh of cattle two years
old, which is something between veal and beef, but tougher than either,
is the most common meat. Poultry is very lean, rather tough and
very expensive. Such vegetables as cabbage, marrows, beans, peas,
and lettuce are plentiful, but carrots, parsnips and broad beans are
only grown in private gardens and are more or less regarded as lux-
uries.
In southern Spain, where women live in almost Oriental seclusion,
men sell the produce, and the markets are filled with their loud voices
as in excitable tones each man offers grapes, figs, pomegranates, olives
and oranges at a lower price than his neighbour.
In the north the markets are more picturesque, for the produce is
sold by the straight-featured Basque women who come in from the
neighbouring farms. The produce consists principally of fruit and
vegetables, which they pile in long rows and decorate with flowers.
The little bunches of pink, yellow, purple and red flowers are arranged
without the least regard to colour, yet, nevertheless, have a bright
and pleasing effect.
Housekeeping in Spain is primitive and cooking a very simple affair.
Every family buys just enough potatoes or beans each day for one
dinner, cooks and eats them all, and the next day does the same thing
over again. The kitchens are almost bare of utensils with which to
cook. Even rolling pins and bread boards are unknown, for both bread
and pastry are obtained from the bakery. The bread, by the way, is
close grained, its almost solid condition being due to the excessive
kneading it receives.
Notwithstanding the limited markets and the primitive methods of
cooking many of their frugal national dishes are extremely palatable.
The most distinctively Spanish dish, “ berga,” appears as the first
1568
TYPICAL SPANISH DISHES
1569
course of every dinner, and for the poor comprises the entire meal.
It is made of corned beef, sausage, or pork boiled with peas, beans,
cabbage and squash, or indeed any other vegetable in season, and stewed
all together in one vessel, usually an earthenware pipkin. Amongst
the wealthy, carrots, turnips and tomatoes are added to the meat, or
game and poultry, whilst the peas and lentils give place to rice. This
stew is almost identical with Olla, the daily stew of the Portuguese.
3758. — ESTOFADO. (Stewed Chicken.)
Ingredients. — The remains of cooked chicken cut into dice (about
2 heaped tablespoonfuls ), 2 large potatoes cut into dice, 1 slice of toasted
bread cut into dice, 1 tablespoonful of raisins, 2 tomatoes, 1 green
pepper finely shredded, \ of a pint of wine or vinegar, 1 oz. of lard, salt.
Method. — Halve the tomatoes, squeeze out all the juice and cut
them into dice. Place the chicken, potatoes, toast, raisins, tomatoes
and green pepper in a stew- jar, add a good seasoning of salt, the wine
or vinegar, and as much water as is needed to barely cover the whole.
Place the lard on the top in small pieces, cover closely, and stew gently
for about i-J- hours. Serve hot.
Time. — To cook about ij hours. Average Cost, is. 3d. Sufficient
for 2 persons. Seasonable at any time.
3759—' TOREGAS PAR EL DES AYUNO. (Spanish
Fritters.)
Ingredients. — 4 tablespoonfuls of flour, 3 eggs, \ a pint of milk, syrup
(see p. 1059), cinnamon, salt, lard.
Method. — Mix the flour, eggs, milk and a good pinch of salt to a
smooth batter, and let it stand for an hour. Make a syrup as directed,
and to it add a liberal flavouring of cinnamon. Heat the lard, put in
the batter a spoonful at a time and fry gently until crisp and lightly
browned. The syrup is usually poured over before serving, but if
preferred it may be handed separatelv.
Time. — Altogether, about 2 hours. Average Cost, is. Sufficient for
5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
3760. — TORTILLA BUNURLOS. (Spanish Wafers.)
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of flour, water, syrup ( see p. 1059), cinnamon,
salt.
Method. — Make the syrup as directed, and add a liberal flavouring of
cinnamon. To the flour add a good pinch of salt and cold water
gradually until a smooth rather soft dough is formed. Take a piece of
dough about the size of a small egg and slap it from hand to hand until
as thin as a wafer. Bake in a moderately cool oven until crisp, pour
the syrup over and serve.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 5d. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
o
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HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1570
3761. — TORTAS DE HUENO. (Egg Savoury.)
Ingredients. — 5 eggs, 1 tablespoonful of grated cheese, 1 oz. of lard,
10 red peppers, salt.
Method. — Scrape the fibres from the peppers, boil the peppers in a
little water for 15 minutes or until soft, then drain and chop them finely.
Separate the yolks from the whites of eggs, and whip the latter to a
stiff froth. Heat the lard, add the chopped peppers and a tablespoonful
of the water in which they were boiled, cheese, yolks of eggs, and salt to
taste. Stir over the fire for 2 or 3 minutes, then add the whites a spoon-
ful at a time and stir very gently until cooked. To be eaten with meats.
Time. — about 40 minutes. Average Cost, is. to is. 3d. Sufficient for
4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.
3762. — COLACHE. (Vegetable Stew.)
Ingredients. — 1 green squash, 6 tomatoes, 1 large onion cut into dice,
1 green pepper finely shreded, 1 oz. of lard, salt.
Method. — Cut the squash into pieces about one inch square. Halve the
tomatoes, squeeze from them all the juice and cut them into dice.
Place the squash, tomatoes, onion, green pepper, lard, and a good seasoning
of salt in a stew- jar, and add water to barely cover the whole. Cover
closely and cook gently for about one hour.
Time. — To cook, about 1 hour. Average Cost, is. to is. 6d. Sufficient
for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.
3763. — TORTAS DE LANGOSTA. (Lobster Fritters.)
Ingredients. — 1 lobster (or a tin of lobster of a good brand), 4 eggs, 1
heaped tablespoonful of flour, cayenne, salt, lard for frying.
Method. — Divide the lobster into very fine flakes. Beat the eggs
lightly, add them gradually to the flour, season liberally with salt and
cayenne and stir in the lobster. Have the lard ready heated, put in the
preparation a tablespoonful at a time, and fry slowly until crisp and
lightly browned.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, is. 6d. to 2s. 6d. Sufficient for 4
or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.
3764. — CERBOLLACONTOMATE. (Stewed Tomatoes.)
Ingredients. — 6 large tomatoes sliced, 2 large onions cut into dice, 1
green pepper finely chopped, 1 oz. of lard, salt.
Method — Heat the lard, fry in it the onion and pepper until the
onion is lightly browned and add the tomatoes. Season to taste with
salt, cover closely and cook gently for about \ hour.
Time. — To cook, about i|- hours. Average Cost, 9d. Sufficient for 3
or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.
JEWISH COOKERY
CHAPTER TV
General Remarks and Recipes for Passover Dishes
As a race the Jews have derived an incalculable benefit from the re-
markable and wisely conceived hygienic code which formed an essential
part of the religious life of the Hebrew nation. This comprehensive
scheme for the regulation of social and domestic affairs includes rules
for the selection and preparation of food, which is divided into two
classes, “ clean ” and “ unclean,” the latter being prohibited. Among
the “ unclean ” foods are pork, eels, and mud-loving fish : the pig
from its indiscriminate feeding being liable to internal and external
parasitical diseases, especially in warm climates. Fish also suffer from
parasites and rapidly decompose, particularly the fat, indigestible
mud-fish.
The Mosaic code takes cognizance of the danger to health which
arises from the consumption of unsound food, and minute regulations
are laid down for the examination and slaughtering of animals, it being
required that the butcher should be a priest, a trained expert, whose
duty it is to this day to examine all cattle before they are slaughtered
and reject the “ unclean.” The animals are killed in accordance with
a strict ritual, one of the chief points being the removal of the blood,
which modern science has shown often contains malignant microbes,
and a potent cause of corruption and disease. Certain parts of the
carcass, chiefly the digestive organs, which are commonly eaten, the
Jews reject, losing indeed some gastronomic pleasure, but escaping
risks which in hot climates are very real. Not only the carcasses,
but the various joints are stamped by the priest with his official seal
before they are delivered for consumption.
Apart from these precautions for the safety of the general public,
there are various domestic rules designed to secure the wholesomeness
of the food eaten by the Jews. For example, certain joints are soaked
in cold water to extract all traces of blood : fish must be cleansed with
the most scrupulous care both inside and outside. Methods of cooking
are also prescribed in certain cases. Fish and other classes of food
must be fried in oil — a sound gastronomic and hygienic rule, for the
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HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
oil before being fit for use must be raised to a high temperature to
ensure thorough cooking and the retention of the savour of the viand,
which thus becomes completely sterilized. The Jewish smoked beef
is most excellent and useful, for it keeps good so long, and is a capital
store for gravies and soups.
There are many interesting dishes peculiar to special feasts and fast-
days, but in all the directions given for these, it will be noticed that
cleanliness and health are regarded as the essential.
Passover Dishes.
3765. AMNASTICH.
Ingredients. — 1 chicken, veal forcemeat, No. 413, 1 quart of white
stock, 1 lb. of Carolina rice. 1 Spanish onion stuck with 3 or 4 cloves,
a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 4 yolks of eggs, the juice
of 1 large lemon, salt and pepper.
Method. — Stuff the chicken with forcemeat and truss it for boiling.
Wash and well drain the rice, put it into a large stewpan with the stock,
bring it slowly to boiling point, and add the onion, bouquet-garni, salt
and pepper to taste. Cook slowly until the rice begins to soften, then
add the chicken, cover it well with rice, and continue to cook slowly
until done. Remove the chicken and keep it hot, take out the onion
and bouquet-garni, and add the beaten yolks of eggs and the lemon
juice. Stir over the fire for a few minutes, then serve the lice, etc.,
piled round the chicken.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, 3s. qd. to 4s. 3d., exclusive of
the stock. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.
3766. — FILLETS OF SALMON FRIED IN BUTTER.
Ingredients. — lbs. of salmon, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped
parsley, \ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped shallot or onion, \ a
teaspoonful of powdered mixed herbs, flour, frying-batter (see No.
1647), frying-oil, salt and pepper.
Method. — Divide the salmon into slices about 2 inches square and
rather more than \ an inch in thickness, and roll them in flour seasoned
with a little salt and pepper. Make the batter, add to it the onion,
parsley, herbs, and a good seasoning of pepper, and dip in the pieces of
fish. If available, fry them in a deep pan of oil ; if not, heat a good
layer of oil in a saute-pan or a good sized frying-pan, and cook the fish
until well browned on both sides. Serve cold.
Time. — 40 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. to 3s. Sufficient for 4 or 5
persons. Seasonable from February to August.
PASSOVER DISHES
1573
3767. — FISH, STEWED.
Ingredients. — 2 or 3 lbs. of white fish, 1 onion finely-chopped, 2 table-
spoonfuls of oil, 1 pint of water, 1 tablespoonful of finely-chopped parsley,
ground ginger, nutmeg, salt and pepper. For the balls : \ a lb. of
fish liver (or equal parts of liver and fish) finely chopped, 2 ozs. of bread-
crumbs, 1 tablespoonful of finely chopped parsley, 1 egg, ginger, nut-
meg, pepper and salt to taste. For the sauce : the juice of 3 lemons,
2 eggs, a pinch of saffron.
Method. — Cook the onion in the oil without browning, drain off the
oil, leave three parts of the onion in the stewpan, and put aside
the rest. Mix together the ingredients for the balls, add the onion
taken out of the stewpan, ginger, nutmeg, pepper and salt to taste,
form into small balls, and roll them lightly in flour. Divide the fish
into conveniently shaped pieces, place them in the stewpan, add the
water, parsley, and a good sprinkling of ginger, nutmeg, salt and pepper.
Lay the balls on the top, cover closely, and stew very gently until the
fish is done. Beat the 2 eggs, strain over them the lemon-juice, pour
this over the fish a few minutes before serving, and afterwards stir
occasionally, but do not let it actually boil, else it will curdle.
When ready, transfer the fish to a hot dish and garnish, then
place the balls round the base, stir the saffron into the sauce, and
serve strained over the fish.
Time. — About 30 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. to pd. per lb. Sufficient
for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
3768. — FISH STEW, BROWN.
Ingredients. — 3 lbs. of salmon, mackerel or any other oily fish, 3 medium-
sized sliced onions, 6 ozs. of golden syrup, 2d. worth of gingerbread,
l- a pint of cold water, i-f- gills of vinegar, cayenne, salt.
Method. — Cook the onions in the water until barely tender, then add
the fish, cayenne and salt to taste. Crumble the gingerbread, pour
over it the vinegar, stir until smooth, and add the golden syrup. When
the fish is about half-cooked add the above mixture, and continue to
cook slowly until done, stirring frequently meanwhile. Serve hot or cold.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 6d., exclusive of the fish. Sufficient
for 6 or more persons.
3769. — FISH, TO FRY.
Ingredients. — 2 or 3 lbs. of fish (haddock, cod, or whiting), 1 egg,
2 tablespoonfuls of flour, salt, frying-oil, fried parsley.
Method. — Wash and dry the fish (bone it if liked), and cut it into
pieces convenient for serving. Sprinkle liberally with salt, let it
remain for 15 minutes, then dry well on a cloth, and dip it first into
flour, and afterwards into beaten egg. Fry in a deep pan of hot oil
until nicely browned, or, if more convenient, in a frying-pan containing
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HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
sufficient oil to half cover the fish, which must be turned when the
under side is brown. Drain well, and serve garnished with parsley.
Time. — To fry the fish, from 6 to io minutes, according to its size and
thickness. Average Cost, 4d. to 8d. per lb. Allow 2 lbs. for 5 or 6
persons. Seasonable all the year.
377o.— fried salmon.
Ingredients. — 2 slices of salmon, about ij- inches thick, 1 egg, flour,
salt and pepper, salad oil.
Method. — Wash the fish in cold water, dry it well on a cloth, sprinkle
both sides of each slice with salt, let them remain for \ an hour, then fold
them in a clean cloth and press gently to remove all moisture. Season
1 good tablespoonful of flour with salt and pepper, coat the fish com-
pletely, and dip it into beaten egg. During this process heat some
salad oil in a saute or frying-pan and then put in the fish, and fry it until
well browned on both sides. Drain thoroughly, and serve cold.
Tima — 1 hour. Average Cost, 2s. to 3s. Sufficient for 4 persons.
Seasonable from February to August.
377I— FRIMSEL SOUP.
Ingredients. — 1 quart of best stock, 1 egg, flour, salt.
Method. — Add a little salt to the egg, and stir in as much flour as
possible. Knead well, roll out as thin as a wafer, and divide it into
three strips. Put these aside until thoroughly dry, then place the strips
one above the other, and shred finely. Then put them into the stock
when boiling, simmer from 20 to 25 minutes, remove the scum, and serve.
Time. — To cook the paste, from 20 to 25 minutes. Average Cost,
from 2d. to 3d., exclusive of the stock. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
3772.— GRIMSLICHS.
Ingredients.— 2 motzas (Passover cake), 4 ozs. of meal (motza),
2 ozs. of ground almonds, 2 ozs. of stoned raisins, 2 ozs. of sultanas,
4 ozs. of brown sugar, 2 eggs, cinnamon, nutmeg, frying-oil.
Method. — Soak the motzas while the rest of the ingredients are being
prepared, then squeeze them dry, and stir in the meal and 1 egg. Beat
the remaining egg, and add to it the almonds, raisins, sultanas, sugar,
and a little cinnamon and nutmeg. Take up a little of the motza
paste with a spoon, form it into an oval shape, add a little of the fruit
mixture, and cover with paste. Smooth it carefully, roll lightly in the motza
meal, and fry in hot oil until nicely browned. Serve with fruit syrup.
Time. — To fry the Grimslichs, from 8 to 10 minutes. Average Cost,
iod. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
PASSOVER DISHES
1.575
3773-— INVALID’S JELLY.
Ingredients. — \ a pint of lemon or orange juice (or half of each), \ a
pint of cold water, 2 yolks of eggs, 6 ozs. of castor sugar, an oz. of
vegetable isinglass (Iceland moss may be substituted).
Method. — Dissolve the isinglass in the water, add the sugar and lemon-
juice, and let the mixture cool slightly. When ready', add the yolks
of eggs well-beaten, pour into a mould previously rinsed with cold
water, and put aside until firm. When a less acid jelly is required,
equal parts of lemon and orange juice may be preferred to lemon-juice,
or, water may replace a part of the lemon-juice.
Time. — To make the jelly, 20 minutes. Average Cost, is. 3d. to is. 6d.
Sufficient for a pint mould. Seasonable at any time.
3774. — JACOB PUDDING.
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of fruit jam or marmalade, 3 or 4 slices of bread
and butter, 2 eggs, 1 pint of milk, salt.
Method. — Cut the bread and butter into fingers, spread them thickly
with jam or marmalade, and place them lattice-fashion in a buttered
pie-dish. Beat the eggs well, add a pinch of salt, and the milk, and pour
the whole slowly over the bread, etc. Let the dish stand covered
for at least 1 hour, then bake in a moderate oven for about 40 minutes,
and serve.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, 7d. to 9d. Sufficient for 3 or 4
persons. Seasonable at any time.
3775. — MEAT BAKED WITH RICE AND POTATOES.
Ingredients. — 3 lbs. of beef or mutton, 4 lbs. of potatoes, -J- a lb. of rice,
dripping, salt and pepper, 1 pint of boiling water.
Method. — Wash the rice, put it into a baking-tin with the boiling
water, add 1 teaspoonful of salt, and cook in the oven until nearlv all
the water is absorbed. Wash, peel and halve the potatoes, place them
on top of the rice, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and add a little drip-
ping. Place the meat on a trivet in the tin, sprinkle with salt and
pepper, replace in the oven, and cook gently until done. The rice may
be served' on the dish with the meat, but the potatoes should be served
in a vegetable dish.
Time. — To cook the meat, about 1 hour. Average- Cost, j\ d. to iod.
per lb. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable at any time.
3776. - MEAT, TO PREPARE FOR COOKING.
Cover the meat with cold water, let it remain for \ an hour, then
wash it well, to remove as much of the blood as possible. Place it on a
koshering board, or, if the perforated wooden draining board known
1576
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
by this name is not available, use a basket-lid, placed in a slanting
position, to allow the water to drain away more freely. When suffi-
ciently drained, sprinkle every part of the meat with coarse salt, let it
remain for i hour, then remove the salt by washing the meat 3 times
under the tap. Drain it thoroughly on a clean cloth, and afterwards
cook in the usual manner.
Liver must be cut open and well washed in cold water, and may be
fried on a shovel over the fire. Before being cooked, it must be again
washed and sprinkled with salt.
Hearts, before being placed in the water, must be cut, to allow the
blood to flow out easily.
Fat for clarifying, or Suet, must first have the skin removed, and then
be subjected to the same washing, salting and drying processes de-
scribed for preparing meat.
3777. — MOTZA KLEIS (FOR SOUP).
Ingredients. — 1 motza (Passover cake), 2 tablespoonfuls of meal
(motza), 1 onion coarsely chopped, 1 egg, \ a teaspoonful of ground
ginger, butter or dripping, salt and pepper.
Method. — Soften the motza in cold water, then squeeze dry. Brown
the onion in a little hot butter or fat, stir it into the motza, add the egg
well beaten, ginger, also salt and pepper to taste, and lastly the meal.
Shape into small balls, roll them lightly in meal, and add them to the
soup when boiling. Boil gently from 20 to 25 minutes, then serve.
Time. — To cook the balls, from 20 to 25 minutes. Average Cost, 6d.
Sufficient for about 1 quart of soup.
3778. — MOTZA PUDDING.
Ingredients. — 2 motzas (Passover cakes), 2 tablespoonfuls of meal
(motza), 4 ozs. of finely-chopped suet, 4 ozs. of stoned raisins, 4 ozs. of
sultanas, 2 ozs. of sugar, 2 eggs, \ a teaspoonful of powdered mixed
spice, 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of rum, if liked.
Method. — Mix the dry ingredients well together, beat and add the
eggs, and stir in the rum. Turn into a greased basin, and steam or
boil from 3 to 4 hours. Or, turn the mixture into a greased pie-dish,
and bake gently for about 40 minutes.
Time. — To steam or boil the pudding, from 3 to 4 hours. Average
Cost, is. to is. 3d. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
3779. — PANCAKES.
Ingredients. — 1 teacupful of meal (motza), 3 ozs. of sugar, 2 eggs, the
rind of 1 lemon finely grated, 1 pint of milk, -J- a teaspoonful of
ground cinnamon, butter or frying-oil, salt.
PASSOVER DISHES
15 77
Method. — Break the eggs into the flour, mix well, adding the milk gradu-
ally until about half of it is used, then beat well. Stir in the sugar,
lemon-rind, cinnamon and salt to taste, add the rest of the milk, and
put aside for at least 1 hour. Fry in hot butter or oil, then serve plainly,
or with lemon and sugar.
Time. — To fry each pancake, from 2 to 3 minutes. Average Cost, 8d.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
3780. — PEAS AND KLEIS.
Ingredients. — \ a peck of green peas, 2 ozs. of butter, Jof a teaspoonful
of sugar, 1 pint of thick batter ( see “ Yorkshire Pudding,” No. 1930),
\ a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, ginger, pepper and salt to taste.
Method. — Make the batter as directed, and when ready to use, add the
parsley and ginger, pepper and salt to taste. Shell the peas, put them
into a saucepan containing sufficient boiling water to cover them, add
the sugar and a little salt, boil gently until soft, then pour away nearly
all the water. Add the butter, pour the batter on the peas in tablespoon-
fuls, bring gently to boiling point, then simmer from 25 to 30 minutes.
Time. — To cook the batter, from 25 to 30 minutes. Average Cost,
peas, 9d. to is. 6d. per peck. Sufficient, allow \ a peck to 2 or 3 persons.
Seasonable, English peas from June to August
3781. — ROSINA PUDDING.
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of suet finely chopped, 4 ozs. of peeled and chopped
apples, 4 ozs. of sultanas or currants cleaned, 4 ozs. of breadcrumbs, 2 ozs.
of sugar, the rind of a lemon finely chopped or grated, 2 eggs, 1 quince
finely chopped (this may be omitted), a good pinch of salt.
Method. — Mix all the dry ingredients well together, moisten them
with the eggs (previously beaten), and turn the whole into a well-greased
basin. Cover with a buttered paper, and steam from 2\ to 3 hours. If
more convenient the pudding may be covered with a cloth and be boiled
or steamed.
Time. — From 3 to 4 hours. Average Cost, gd. to iod. Sufficient for 5
or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
3782. — SASSAFRAS.
Ingredients. — 2d. of sassafras, J of a teaspoonful of aniseed, \ an inch
of stick liquorice, i- a pint of boiling water.
Method. — Put all the ingredients into a jug, cover, let it stand for 1
hour, then strain. When a fine strainer is not available the liquorice
and aniseed should be tied in a piece of muslin and afterwards removed.
Time. — 1 hour. Average Cost, 3d. Sufficient for 1 pint.
1578 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
3783. — STEWED STEAK WITH RICE AND TOMA-
TOES.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of beefsteak, f of alb. of tomatoes (preserved ones
will serve), \ an oz. of butter or fat, 2 ozs. of rice, 1 large onion sliced, 1
pint of boiling water, salt and pepper.
Method. — Fry the onion in the butter or fat until lightly browned.
Cut the steak into pieces convenient for serving, fry them slightly and
add the boiling water, a small teaspoonful of salt, and a little pepper.
Cover closely, and cook as gently as possible from z\ to 3 hours. Wash
and drain the rice, and add it to the preparation, about 1 hour before
serving. Raw tomatoes should be halved and added \ an hour before
serving, but preserved ones require rather less cooking. The stewpan
should be shaken occasionally, or its contents stirred to prevent burning.
Time. — From z\ to 3 hours. Averago dost, is. 6d. to is. 8d. Suffi-
cient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.
3784. — VANILLA BREAD PUDDING.
Ingredients. — Stale bread, id ozs. of sugar, 2 large or 3 small eggs,
1 pint of milk, vanilla essence, salt.
Method. — Remove the crust from a thick slice of bread, which should
weigh about 4 ozs. when trimmed. Beat the eggs, add the sugar and
a pinch of salt, and vanilla essence to taste. Boil the milk, pour it
over the eggs, etc., and stir until the sugar is dissolved. Place the bread,
cut into thin slices, in a well-buttered pie-dish, pour the preparation over
it, cover, let it remain for at least 1 hour, then bake in a moderately hot
oven until it is set and the surface nicely browned. The pudding may be
served either hot or cold, and may be easily turned out if this method
of serving is desired.
Note. — If milk bread is available this pudding will be much lighter
and more tasty.
Time. — About ■} an hour Average Cost, 6d. Sufficient for 3 or 4
persons. Seasonable at any time.
AUSTRALIAN COOKERY
CHAPTER LVI
The Cookery in Australia is of course English in character, while in the
hotels the French cuisine plays a prominent part just as it does here.
The various dishes which are peculiar to the country are those obtained
from animals and fruits indigenous to the soil, such as Kangaroo-tail
Soup.
The Food Supply of Australia is excellent and abundant. In the
towns the price of mutton varies from 3d. to qd. per lb., and beef from
qd. to 6d. Up country it is cheaper, so cheap, indeed, that the skin
is the more valuable part of the animal, and much of the meat is wasted
or given to the dogs, the best parts alone being eaten.
Australian Fish is plentiful and good, and includes nearly all the
varieties esteemed in England except the sole, which is not found in any
Australian waters; but there are many other varieties unknown in Eng-
land, such as trumpeter, schnapper, flathead, barracouta, etc. Although
the coast and rivers abound in fish, the supply in the market is not
plentiful, consequently fish is very expensive, a fact which no doubt
explains the excessive use of meat in a climate where a diet com-
prised almost entirely of such food is undesirable. Fresh water
fish are most abundant in both creeks and rivers ; fresh water cod
especially, a delicately-flavoured fish, generally considered superior to
the cod fish found on our coasts. Oyster beds are abundant in many
parts of Australia, consequently this highly-esteemed bivalve is too
cheap to be considered a luxury as it is in England.
Vegetables grow abundantly in most parts of Australia, and in
addition to the varieties common in England, there are many un-
known to us. Sour sop, a fruit which in its ripe condition resembles
the custard apple, may in its green state be cooked and served as a
vegetable. Paw paw also serves the double purpose of fruit and
vegetable, for it is equally excellent boiled while in a green, unripe
condition and served with white sauce, or eaten when ripe with wine
and sugar. The choko is a vegetable little known, although it grows
freely in many parts of Australia. It is excellent plainly boiled and
served with white sauce.
1579
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HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Fruit is so plentiful in many parts of Australia that many varieties
may there be had for the picking. In addition to apples, apricots,
peaches, bananas, figs, melons and other well-known fruit, there are
others almost unknown in England, such as gramma, granadilla,
loquat, Passion fruit, etc.
Typical Australian Dishes
3785. — APRICOT JAM.
Ingredients. — To every lb. of stoned apricots allow the juice of 1
lemon, 1 pint of water, and f of a lb. of sugar.
Method. — Remove the stones, crack half of them, and add the
kernels to the fruit. Boil the water, sugar, and lemon juice together
for 20 minutes, skim well, put in the fruit and kernels. Boil gently
for about an hour, or until a little of the syrup quickly jellies when
poured on to a cold plate. Turn into dry glasses or pots, cover
immediately, and store in a dry place. Peaches may be substituted
for apricots.
Time. — To boil the jam, about f of an hour. Average Cost, 4d. per lb.
3786. — APRICOT MOULD.
Ingredients. — 2 dozen apricots, \ a pint of custard No. 2104 or 2105,
jelly No. 1991 or 2004, lemon juice, castor sugar, an oz. of gelatine,
4 ozs. of loaf sugar, J of a pint of water.
Method. — Halve the apricots and remove the stones. Boil the 4 ozs.
of loaf sugar in the \ of pint of water to a syrup, put in the apricots,
remove six halves when partially cooked, and the remainder when quite
soft, and pass the latter through a fine sieve. Line a mould with jelly
(. see page 985), and decorate it with the partially-cooked apricots.
Dissolve the gelatine in a little hot water. Mix the apricot pulp and
custard together, add sugar and lemon juice to taste, and strain in
the gelatine. Mix quickly and thoroughly, turn into the prepared
mould, and keep on ice until firm.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, is. Seasonable in summer.
3787. — APRICOTS AND RICE.
Ingredients. — 2 dozen fresh ripe apricots, 3 tablespoonfuls of apricot
marmalade, 1 quart of milk, 1 breakfastcupful of rice, 1 breakfast-
cupful of sugar, 3 eggs, the rind of 1 lemon, the juice of 2 lemons.
Method. — Simmer the rice and lemon-rind in the milk until the rice is
tender, adding more milk if the rice becomes too dry before it is suffi-
ciently cooked. Take out the lemon-rind, stir in 2 tablespoonfuls of
sugar and the eggs, and cook gently by the side of the fire for a few
TYPICAL AUSTRALIAN DISHES
1581
minutes longer. Place a jar in the centre of a glass dish, and pile the
rice round it, sloping it towards the edge of the dish, and put aside
until cold. Strain the lemon-juice over the rest of the sugar, boil the
syrup, put in the apricots previously peeled, halved and stoned, and
a few of the kernels blanched and shredded, and boil gently until
cooked, but not broken. Remove the jar, and place the apricots care-
fully in the space it occupied, piling them high in the centre, add the
apricot marmalade to the syrup, and strain it over the apricots. Gar-
nish with the remainder of the kernels, and serve when quite cold.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, is. 9d. to 2s.
3788. — CHOKO, TO BOIL.
Ingredients. — Choko, salt, white sauce or melted butter ( see Nos.
223 and 202).
Method. — Peel the choko, let it remain in salt and cold water for
about 1 hour, then drain well. Place in a saucepan containing salted
boiling water, boil from 1 to i£ hours, and serve with the sauce
poured over.
Time. — z\ hours.
3789. — COD STEAKS.
Ingredients. — 3 or 4 slices of fresh-water cod, 2 yolks of eggs, capers,
salad-oil, vinegar, pepper and salt.
Method. — Wash, dry the fish thoroughly, and brush each slice over
with salad-oil. Add a good seasoning of salt and pepper to the yolks
of eggs, stir them with a wooden spoon in a small basin until thick,
then add salad-oil, a few drops at a time, until the preparation has the
consistency of very thick cream. Cut the capers in halves, and add
them with a few drops of vinegar to the sauce. Grill the cod steaks
over or in front of a clear fire, and serve hot. The sauce should be
served separately.
Time. — To grill the fish, from 20 to 25 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d.
to is. 9d.
3790. — FISH KLOSH.
Ingredients. — } a lb. of cold trumpeter or other fish, 1 oz. of ham or
bacon coarsely chopped, 1 shallot, or 1 small onion finely chopped,
1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, of a pint of milk, 1 egg, a pint of
anchovy sauce No. 288, salt, pepper.
Method. —Mince the ham or bacon, and the shallot or onion, and
fry in the butter for a few minutes ; stir in the flour, add the milk,
and boil gently for 5 minutes. Mix in the egg, and fish finely flaked,
season to taste, spread on a plate, and put aside. When cold, form
into small balls, poach in boiling fish stock or water for 5 or 6 minutes,
and serve with a little sauce poured over, and the remainder in a
sauce-boat.
Time. — Altogether about 2 hours.
1582
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
3791. — FLATHEAD, BAKED.
Ingredients. — 1 flathead, forcemeat Nos. 394 or 396, dripping,
anchovy Sauce No. 2S9, or piquant sauce No. 265.
Method. — Empty, wash, and dry the fish, make the forcemeat as
directed, press it lightly into the opening made in cleaning the fish,
which secure by means of string or cotton and a needle. Bake gently
from 35 to 45 minutes, basting frequently with hot dripping, and
when done, remove the string. Serve the sauce separately. The fish
may be trussed in the form of the letter S, and the appearance further
improved by a coating of egg and lightly browned breadcrumbs
applied before baking.
Time. — Altogether about 1 hour.
3792. — GRAMMA PIE OR TART.
Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of grammas, a lb. of sugar, of a lb. of currants,
1 dessertspoonful of lemon juice, short crust No. 1668.
Method. — Remove the peel and seeds, cut the fruit into small pieces,
place in a stewpan with 3 or 4 tablespoonfuls of cold water and the
lemon juice. Cook gently until soft, add the currants and sugar, and
turn the whole into a pie-dish. Cover with paste, bake in a moderately
hot oven, and serve either hot or cold. Custard or junket will be
found an agreeable addition.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, about is.
3793. — GRANADILLA CREAM.
Ingredients. — 1 granadilla, \ a pint of cream, 2 ozs. of gelatine,
1 tablespoonful of castor sugar, 1 'teaspoonful of lemon juice (about).
Method. — Extract the juice and pulp from the granadilla, and to it
add the sugar and lemon juice, let the whole remain covered in a basin
for about 40 minutes, then pass through a fine sieve. Whip the cream
stiffly, and stir it lightly into the fruit pulp. Dissolve the gelatine in
a little hot water, strain, and stir it into the preparation. Turn into
a mould, and keep on ice or in a cool place until firm.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, is. 3d.
3794. — GREEN FIG JAM.
Ingredients. — To 2 lbs. of figs allow i\ lbs. of sugar, \ a pint of water,
the juice of 1 lemon.
Method. — Boil the water, sugar, and lemon juice together for 10
minutes, then wipe and slice the fruit, and add it to the syrup. Boil
gently for about 1 hour, or until a little of the syrup poured on to a
cold plate quickly jellies. Turn into pots, cover quickly, and
store in a dry place.
Time, — jo boil the jam, about 1 hour. Average Cost, qd. to 3d. per lb.
TYPICAL AUSTRALIAN DISHES
1583
3795-— GUAVA JELLY.
Ingredients. — 3 quarts of red guavas, the juice of 1 or 2 lemons, loaf
sugar.
Method. — Slice the fruit, cover with cold water, and simmer gently
for 2 hours, then strain through a jelly bag or fine sieve. Measure
the syrup when cold, and to each pint allow 12 ozs. of sugar and 1
tablespoonful of lemon juice. Return to the preserving pan, boil
gently for about i£ hours, or until a little of the syrup poured on to
a cold plate jellies quickly. Turn into pots, cover quickly, and store
in a dry place.
3796. — KANGAROO TAIL, CURRIED.
Ingredients. — 1 tail, 2 ozs. of butter, 1 tablespoonful of flour, 1 table-
spoonful of curry -powder, 2 onions sliced, 1 sour apple cut into dice,
1 dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, f- of a pint of stock, salt.
Method. — Wash, blanch and dry the tail thoroughly, and divide it
at the joints. Fry the tail lightly in hot butter, take it up, put in the
sliced onions, and fry them for 3 or 4 minutes without browning.
Sprinkle in the flour and curry-powder, and cook gently for at least
20 minutes, stirring frequently. Add the stock, apple, salt to taste,
bring to the boil, stirring meanwhile, and replace the tail in the stew-
pan. Cover closely, and cook gently until tender, then add the lemon-
juice and more seasoning if necessary. Arrange the pieces ot tail on a
hot dish, strain the sauce over, and serve with boiled rice.
3797- — KANGAROO TAIL, FRICASSEE OF.
Ingredients. — 1 tail, 2 ozs. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, 1 onion sliced,
1 carrot sliced, \ a small turnip sliced, 2 or 3 sprigs of parsley, 1 bay-
leaf, 2 cloves, 1 blade of mace, 1 dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, salt
and pepper, stock or water.
Method. — Divide the tail at each joint, cover with cold water, bring
to the boil, then drain and dry well. Fry the joints lightly in hot butter,
then take them up and stir in the flour. Fry until well browned, add
the stock and stir until it boils, then put back the tail, and add the
vegetables, herbs and spices. Season to taste, cover closely, and simmer
gently until tender. Arrange the pieces ot tail neatly on a hot dish,
strain the sauce over, and serve.
Time. — 3 hours.
3798.— KANGAROO TAIL SOUP.
Ingredients. — 1 tail, 2 lb. of gravy beef, 4 ozs. of butter, \\ ozs. of
flour, 3 quarts of water, 1 carrot, 1 onion, 2 or 3 sprigs of parsley, 1 bay-
leaf, salt and pepper.
1584
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Prepare and slice the vegetables, wash the tail and divide
it at the joints. Heat the butter in a stewpan, fry the tail until well
browned, then remove it and fry the meat, previously cut into rather
thin slices. Strain off the butter and put it aside until required.
Replace the tail in the stewpan, add the water and a teaspoonful of
salt, and bring to the boil. Skim well, put in the prepared vegetables,
parsley, bay-leaf, and a good seasoning of pepper, cover closely, and
simmer gently for 4 hours, skimming when necessary. Strain; if con-
venient let the liquor stand until quite cold and remove every particle
of fat from the surface. Re-heat the butter used for frying, adding
more if necessary, stir in the flour, and cook for 3 or 4 minutes. Add
the stock, bring to the boil, put in a few pieces of the tail, season to
taste, make thoroughly hot, and serve.
3799. — LOQUAT JELLY.
May be made as directed for Guava Jelly (No. 3795) but a little less
sugar should be used.
Time. — Altogether 5 or 6 hours. Average Cost, 9d. per pint.
3800. — LOQUAT PIE OR TART.
Ingredients. — 1 quart of loquats, 1 tablespoonful of lemon juice,
3 ozs. of loaf sugar, \ a pint of cold water, short crust No. 1668.
Method. — Wash and halve the fruit, remove the stones, and place
them in a stewpan with the sugar, water, and lemon juice. Simmer
gently for 10 minutes, then strain, replace the liquor in a stewpan,
add the fruit, and cook gently until tender. Turn the whole into a
pie-dish, cover with paste, bake in a moderately hot oven, and serve
either hot or cold.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, about is.
3801. — MELBOURNE PANCAKES.
Ingredients. — 2 breakfastcupfuls of flour, 2 breakfastcupfuls of sour
milk, 2 breakfastcupfuls of ripe fruit mashed and sweetened, 2 ozs.
of butter melted, 2 eggs, 1 good teaspoonful of carbonate of soda,
sugar, lard, \ a level teaspoonful of salt.
Method. — Mix the flour, milk, eggs, and salt into a smooth batter,
and let stand for 1 \ hours. Then add the melted butter and the
carbonate of soda previously dissolved in a little hot water. Fry the
pancakes in hot lard, pile them one above another with a thick layer
of fruit between them. Sprinkle with sugar, and serve.
Time. — Altogether about hours. Average Cost, iod. to is.
TYPICAL AUSTRALIAN DISHES
1585
3802. — PARROT PIE.
Ingredients. — 1 dozen paraqueets (a small, long-tailed tropical parrot),
6 thin slices of lean beef, 4 rashers of bacon, 3 hard-boiled eggs, \ a tea-
spoonful of finely-chopped parsley, ^ of a teaspoonful of finely-grated
lemon-peel, salt and pepper, puff -paste No. 1665, flour.
Method.— Prepare the birds, and truss them like a quail or any other
small bird. Line a pie-dish with the beef, over it place 6 of the para-
queets, intersperse slices of egg, parsley and lemon-rind, dredge lightly
with flour, and season with salt and pepper. Cover with the bacon cut
into strips, lay the rest of the birds on the top, intersperse slices of egg,
season with salt and pepper, and sprinkle with parsley and lemon-rind
as before. Three-quarters fill the dish with cold water, cover with
puff-paste, and bake in a quick oven.
Time. — 2\ hours. Cost, uncertain.
3803. — PAW PAW, GREEN, TO BOIL.
Ingredients. — Green paw paw, salt, white sauce or melted butter
( see Nos. 223 and 202).
Method. — Boil gently in salt and water until soft, and serve covered
with sauce.
3804. — PEACH AND PINEAPPLE MARMALADE.
Ingredients.— 7 lbs. of peaches, 1 large ripe pine, 3 lemons, 6 lbs. of
sugar.
Method. — Pare and slice the pine, peel and stone the peaches, crack
half the stones and remove the kernels. Put the peaches and pine
into a preserving-pan with just a little water to protect the bottom
layer, heat slowly to simmering boil, and afterwards cook gently for
about -J- an hour. Add the sugar gradually, so as not to reduce the
temperature below simmering point, the strained juice of the lemons
and the kernels, and boil gently for 20 minutes, skimming when neces-
sary. Pour into earthenware or glass jars, cover closely, and store
in a cool dry place.
3805. — PUMPKIN PIE.
Ingredients. — J- a pint of pumpkin pulp, f of a pint of milk, 2 eggs,
2 ozs. of sugar, mace or nutmeg, short crust No. 1667, or 1668.
Method. — Take a ripe pumpkin, pare off the skin, halve it, remove
the seeds, and cut it into thick slices. Put it into a lined stewpan or
earthenware jar with a small quantity of water, and stew gently until
tender. Pass through a fine sieve, measure the pulp, add the sugar,
yolks of eggs, milk, and a little mace or nutmeg, and lastly the whites of
eggs previously whisked to a stiff froth. Have a pie-dish ready lined
round the edges with paste, put in the preparation, cover with paste,
and bake in a quick oven. Serve either hot or cold.
1586 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
3806. — PUMPKIN PIE. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — 1 ripe pumpkin, 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar, \ a teaspoon-
ful of powdered allspice, short paste No. 1667, or 1668.
Method. — Pare the pumpkin, halve it, remove the seeds, and slice
it thinly. Put it into a pic-dish, sprinkling each layer with sugar and
a little allspice, cover with paste, and bake in a brisk oven. Serve
with thick cream and sugar.
3807. — SCHNAPPER, BAKED.
Ingredients. — 1 schnapper, 1 tablespoonful of chopped mushroom,
1 teaspoonful of finely chopped parsley, 1 saltspoonful of finely chopped
onion, browned crumbs, butter, salt, pepper, lemon juice.
Method. — Wash, dry, and fillet the fish ; place the fillets on a well-
greased baking dish or tin, and sprinkle them with lemon juice. Mix
the mushroom, parsley, and onion together, season liberally, and
spread the mixture on the fish. Cover rather thickly with browned
breadcrumbs, add a few bits of butter, and bake in a moderately
hot oven from 20 to 30 minutes. The fish should be served on the
dish on which it was baked.
Time. — To bake, from 20 to 30 minutes.
3808. — SCHNAPPER, WITH TOMATO SAUCE.
Ingredients. — 1 schnapper, \\ lbs. of tomatoes, \\ ozs. of butter,
ozs. of flour, sugar, salt, pepper.
Method. — Wash and dry the fish, bake it gently for about % an hour,
and then remove the skin and fins. Meanwhile, pass the tomatoes
through a fine sieve. Heat the butter in a stewpan, stir in the flour,
add the tomato pulp, cook gently for 10 to 15 minutes, season
liberally with salt and pepper, and add sugar to taste. Transfer the
fish to a hot dish, pour the sauce over, and serve.
Time. — About 45 minutes.
3809. — SOUR SOP, TO BOIL.
Ingredients. — Unripe sour sop, salt, white sauce or melted butter
( see Nos. 223 and 202).
Method. — Boil very gently in salted water until tender, and serve
with the sauce poured over.
38 1 0. — WALLABY, ROASTED.
Ingredients. — 1 wallaby, veal forcemeat No. 396, milk, butter.
Method. — In winter the animal may hang for some days, as a hare,
which it resembles, but in summer it must, like all other flesh, be
TYPICAL AUSTRALIAN DISHES
1587
cooked very soon after it is killed. Cut off the hind legs at the first
joints, and after skinning and paunching, let it lie in water for a little
while- to draw out the blood. Make a good veal forcemeat, and after
well washing the inside of the wallaby, stuff it, and sew it up. Truss
as a hare, and roast before a bright, clear fire, from ij to if hours,
according to size. It must be kept some distance from the fire when
first put down, or the outside will be too dry before the inside is done.
Baste well, first with milk and then with butter, and when nearly done
dredge with flour and baste again with butter till nicely browned.
Time. — 2 hours.
3811.— WATER MELON, PRESERVED.
Ingredients. — 1 water melon, 1 lb. of loaf sugar, -} a pint of water,
lemon- juice, ginger, vine leaves.
Method. — Pare and halve the melon, remove the soft part, and cut
the outer oart into small but rather thick slices. Place them in a
preserving-pan between layers of vine leaves, barely cover with cold
water, and cook, keeping the preparation just below simmering point,
until half cooked. Drain, cover with cold water and let it remain
thus for 3 hours, changing the water twice. Boil the sugar and -} a
pint of water to a syrup (more may be required for a large melon, but
the quantity should be increased without altering the proportions),
place the slices of melon carefully in it, and simmer gently for 15
minutes. Drain the melon from the syrup, spread it on a dish in the
sun for 3 hours, then repeat the process. The process is repeated for
the third time after another interval of 3 hours, but before putting the
melon into the syrup for the last time it should be flavoured to taste
with ground ginger and lemon-juice, and boiled for a few minutes.
Lift the slices of melon carefully into pots, pour the syrup over, cover
closely, and store in a dry cool place.
Time. — About 12 hours.
SOUTH AFRICAN COOKERY
CHAPTER LVII
The food supply of South Africa varies considerably, according to
locality. Corn, wines and fruit are cultivated in the neighbourhood
of the Cape ; up country the settlements are grazing farms. Much
of the country is eminently suited for the cultivation of cereals, yield-
ing two annual crops and producing some of the finest wheat in the
world.
Meat Supply. — The supply of meat is plentiful. The Cape sheep is
a peculiar breed, with a broad flat tail composed almost entirely of
fat, which when melted often yields 5 or 6 lbs. This fat supplies the
Cape housekeeper with a very good substitute for lard and frying oil.
It also makes an excellent Savoury, when melted and spread on toast
like marrow. “ Biltong ” is the provender of the Boers on the Veldt,
and the most sustaining form of dried meat ever invented. The beef,
or venison, is cut from the hind leg of the animal, from the thigh-bone
down to the knee joint. After being salted and saltpetred, and pressed,
it is dried in the sun, and may afterwards be kept for any length of
time ; for eating it is shredded with a pocket knife.
Game and Poultry. — Quails and many other birds are plentiful in
South Africa, but partridges and pheasants are confined to the more
northern regions. Deer are numerous, and are highly valued as food.
The South African method of cooking venison in a baking pot, which
no doubt was introduced by the old Dutch settlers, has much to recom-
mend it. Fowls, ducks, turkeys, pigeons and hares are all abundant.
Fish. — The supply of fish is abundant in some parts and scarce in
others. In addition to sole, turbot, salmon, mackerel, haddock and
other fish known to us, there are varieties peculiar to the country ;
of these, the “ silver fish ” resembles whitebait, although larger, and
is cooked in the same way. Cape Harders are almost identical with
our herrings, while the Cape Creef may be described as crawfish. The
Zulus look upon fish as a species of snake, and consequently impure,
and unfitted for human food. Many South African colonists consider
the iguana — a large kind of amphibious lizard — a very welcome addition
to the bill of fare, and say that the flesh of this reptile is anything but
unpalatable.
1588
TYPICAL SOUTH AFRICAN DISHES
1589
Fruit and Vegetables. — There is an abundance of fruit, while some
vegetables are plentiful, others are very scarce. In addition to the
varieties of fruit common in England, there are loquat, tamarinds,
guava, medlar, quince and the Cape gooseberry.
Cooking in South Africa. — The instinct of good feeding is inherent in
the Boer character, and the better-class Boer housewives are capital
cooks. They are very fond of sweetmeats in every shape and form,
and are exceedingly clever in making home-made preserves. “ Mebos ”
is a very common and universally appreciated preparation of dried
and salted apricots, while “ honing kock ” and “ koe-sisters ” are
typical old Dutch sweetmeats. “ Bobotee,” “ Sasatees or Kubobs,”
and “ Gesmoorde Noender ” all owe their origin to the same source,
and should, as well as many other recipes not named, prove most
useful.
Typical South African Dishes
3812. — ALMOND CAKE. (An old Dutch Recipe.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of Jordan or Valencia almonds, 1 oz. of bitter
almonds, 1 lb. of castor sugar, 12 eggs, 4 heaped tablespoonfuls of
pounded cracknel biscuits, rosewater.
Method. — Blanch and pound the almonds, adding from time to time
a little rosewater to prevent them oiling. Beat the sugar and yolks
of eggs together until smooth and light. Whisk the whites of eggs,
add them alternately with spoonfuls of the prepared almonds to the
yolks and sugar, stir in the powdered biscuits, and beat lightly until
well mixed. Turn into a well-buttered cake tin, and bake gently from
ij- to if- hours.
Time. — To bake, from 1 \ to if- hours. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. to 3s. 6d.
Sufficient for 1 large cake. Seasonable at any time.
3813. — BOBOTEE. (A Favourite Dish.)
Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of meat finely chopped, 1 thick slice of bread,
2 medium-sized onions sliced, 2 eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of curry powder,
1 dessertspoonful of sugar, 1 tablespoonful of lemon juice or two table-
spoonfuls of vinegar, 1 oz. of butter or fat, \ a pint of milk, 8 almonds
finely chopped, salt.
Method. — Soak the bread in the milk, drain away all that remains
unabsorbed, and beat out the lumps with a fork. Fry the onion in
the butter or fat, add the curry powder, J a teaspoonful of salt, the
sugar, almonds, lemon juice, meat, bread and 1 egg. Mix well and
turn the whole into a buttered pie-dish or into little cups. Beat the
remaining egg, add the milk strained off the bread (not less than a
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
159°
good f- of a pint), add a little salt and pepper, and pour over the mix-
ture, Bake gently until the custard is set. When possible, juice ob-
tained by soaking tamarinds in water should replace the lemon juice.
Time. — 15 minutes when using cooked meat, otherwise about 40
minutes. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. to 2s. iod. Sufficient for 6 or 8 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
3814. — BREDEE. (A Meat Stew.)
Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of neck of mutton, 2 lbs. of tomatoes sliced, 2
medium-sized onions cut into dice, a small piece of red chilli finely
shredded, sugar, salt and pepper to taste, ij ozs. of butter or fat.
Method. — Cut the meat into small pieces, discarding any superfluous
fat. Heat the butter or fat, fry the onions until lightly browned, put
in the meat, fry quickly for a few minutes, turning repeatedly. Add
the tomatoes, chilli, salt and pepper to taste, barely cover with water,
cover closely, and cook gently for 2 hours. Before serving add a little
sugar.
Time. — About hours. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. to 2s. 9d. Sufficient
for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.
3815. — BROOD KHUTJES (BREAD DUMPLINGS).
(An old-fashioned Dutch Recipe.)
Ingredients. — 3 thick slices of white bread, 1 pint of broth (about),
1 tablespoonful of butter, 1 teaspoonful of finely chopped parsley,
f- of a nutmeg grated, salt and pepper to taste, flour.
Method. — Soak the bread in the broth, squeeze it dry, and beat out
the lumps with a fork. Heat the butter, put in the bread, mix well
over the fire and season to taste. When cool, stir in the eggs, add
the parsley and nutmeg, mix well and form into small balls. Roll
lightly in flour, boil them in stock or broth for 2 minutes, and serve
at once.
Time. — To cook, about 2 minutes. Average Cost, 5d. to 6d.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
3816. — CAPE GOOSEBERRY JAM.
Ingredients. — 6 lbs. of gooseberries, \\ lbs. of preserving sugar, 1 pint
of cold water.
Method. — Prick the berries with a darning needle, place them in
alternate layers with the sugar in a preserving pan, add the water,
and boil gently until a little of the syrup quickly jellies when poured
on to a cold plate. Turn into pots, cover at once, and store in a dry
place.
Time. — From if to 2 hours. Average Cost, uncertain. Sufficient for
6 or 7 lbs. of jam. Seasonable when the gooseberries are ready.
TYPICAL SOUTH AFRICAN DISHES
I591
3817. — CHEESE PUDDING. (An old Dutch Recipe.)
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of grated cheese, \ an oz. of butter oiled, J- of
a pint of cream or milk, 1 teaspoonful of made mustard, salt, cayenne
pepper, 1 egg.
Method. — Beat the egg, add to it the mustard, cream or milk, butter,
cheese, and a liberal seasoning of salt and cayenne, and mix .well.
Turn into a buttered dish, and bake gently from 20 to 25 minutes.
Time. — To bake, from 20 to 25 minutes. Average Cost, pd. to is.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.
3818. — CHICKEN MOULD. (A South African Lun-
cheon Dish.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of cooked chicken, 4 ozs. of ham or lean bacon,
2 ozs. of butter, ^ of a pint of cream, 3 eggs, nutmeg, cayenne, salt,
f of a pint of Bechamel, oyster or other suitable sauce ( see Sauces).
Method. — Melt the butter, beat the eggs until light, and mix the two
together. Chop the chicken and ham finely, pound them well, adding
a little of the mixed egg and butter to moisten. When smooth add
the cream stiffly whipped, the remainder of the egg mixtfire, and
season to taste. Turn into a well-buttered mould or basin, steam
gently from 30 to 35 minutes, and serve with a little sauce poured
round and the remainder in a sauceboat.
Time. — To cook, from 30 to 35 minutes. Average Cost, 5s. 6d. to 6s.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
3819. — DELICIOSA CAKES.
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of Jordan or Valencia almonds, 8 ozs. of castor
sugar, 3 stale id. sponge cakes, the white of 3 eggs, \ of a teaspoonful
of finely-grated orange rind, J of a teaspoonful of powdered cinnamon,
whipped cream, jam.
Method. — Pound or finely chop the almonds, and pass the sponge-
cakes through a fine sieve. Mix the two together, add the orange
rind and cinnamon, and stir in the whites of egg. Bake in well-buttered
small patty pans for about 15 minutes, turn out, and when cold garnish
with a small pyramid of cream with a little jam or preserved fruit
in the centre of it.
Time. — To bake, from 10 to 15 minutes. Average Cost, is., in addition
to cream and jam. Sufficient for 10 or 12 cakes. Seasonable at any time.
3820. — DUTCH KABOBS (SASATIES).
Ingredients. — 1 small leg of mutton, 2 ozs. of butter, 2 ozs. of curry
powder, 3 onions cut into dice, 1 tablespoonful of sugar, a pint of
milk, J of a pint of vinegar (or the juice of 3 lemons), 6 lemon or orange
leaves coarsely chopped.
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1592
Method.— Cut the meat into slices about \ an inch thick, place them in
an earthenware vessel, add the sugar, milk, vinegar or lemon juice, and
the lemon or orange leaves. Fry the onions in the butter, sprinkle on the
curry powder, and add the whole to the contents of the other vessel. Stir
in a liberal seasoning of salt, leave it for at least 12 hours, and when
wanted, place fat and lean pieces alternately on skewers, sprinkle with
salt, and grill over the tire. The liquor in which the meat soaked
should be strained, heated and served as gravy.
Time. — To grill the meat, about 20 minutes. Average Cost, iod.,
exclusive of the meat. Sufficient for 12 persons. Seasonable at any
time.
3821. — DUTCH KOCKIES. (An old Recipe for Tea
Cakes.)
Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of fine flour, ij lbs. of good brown sugar, \ a lb.
of butter, J of a lb. of sheep-tail fat, \ a lb. of almonds pounded, 2
eggs, 2 teaspoonfuls of carbonate of soda, 2 teaspoonfuls of ground
cloves, 2 teaspoonfuls of ground cinnamon, \ of a pint of claret.
Method. — Rub the butter and fat into the flour, add the sugar,
almonds and spices. Dissolve the soda in a little warm water. Beat
the eggs, add the dissolved soda and wine to them, mix with the flour
and knead well. Roll out thinly, stamp into small rounds, and bake
gently until crisp. The old Dutch people put a small piece of citron
preserve in the centre of each cake.
Time. — To bake the cakes, about 20 minutes. Average Cost, 3s. to
3s. 6d. Sufficient for 3 cakes. Seasonable at any time.
3822. — DUTCH WAFERS, OR WAFELS.
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of flour, £ of a lb. of sugar, 2 ozs. of butter, 4
eggs, 2 level teaspoonfuls of ground cinnamon, \ of a pint of wine.
Method. — Beat the butter and sugar together until creamy, beat the
eggs in separately, adding a tablespoonful of flour between each one,
and, lastly, stir in the cinnamon and wine. Cook over the fire in well-
greased waffle irons, and serve dredged with cinnamon and fine sugar.
Time. — To cook the wafers or waffles, about 8 minutes. Average
Cost, is. to is. 3d. Sufficient for 1 lb. of wafers. Seasonable at any
time.
3823. — FISH MOULD. (An old Dutch Recipe.)
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of cooked fish coarsely-chopped, 1 good tea-
cupful of breadcrumbs, 2 ozs. of butter melted, 2 eggs, 1 teaspoonful
of anchovy essence, cayenne, pepper, salt, white sauce, oyster, or other
fish sauce.
TYPICAL SOUTH AFRICAN DISHES
1593
Method. — Mix the fish, breadcrumbs, and a good seasoning o' pepper,
cayenne, and salt well together, and moisten with the eggs, butter,
and anchovy essence. When well mixed, turn into a buttered mould ;
steam gently for about if hours, and serve with a little sauce poured
round and the remainder in a sauceboat.
Time.— To cook, about if hours. Average Cost, iod., exclusive of
the sauce. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.
3824. — FISH STEW.
Ingredients. — A large sole, or any nice Cape fish, 1 oz. of butter, 1 oz.
of flour, 1 medium-sized onion sliced, 2 tablespoonfuls of ketchup,
1 small blade of mace, 2 cloves, salt, pepper, stock, egg and bread-
crumbs, fat for frying.
Method. — Fillet the fish, trim neatly, chop the trimmings finely, and
put them aside. Coat the fillets with egg and breadcrumbs, fry them
until nicely browned, also fry the sliced onion, which should preferably
be done in a separate frying-pan with very little fat. Place both fish
and onion in a cooking vessel with a closely-fitting lid, barely cover
with stock, add the ketchup, mace, cloves, and a good seasoning of
salt and pepper, cover closely and cook gently for an hour. Knead
the butter and flour smoothly together and add it to the contents of
the stewpan \ an hour before serving. Season the chopped trimmings
of the fish, moisten them with beaten egg, fry them lightly, and serve
as a garnish to the fish.
Time. — if hours. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. to 3s. Sufficient for 3 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
3825. — GESMOORDE HOENDER. (Stewed Fowl.)
Ingredients. — 1 young fowl, 2 large white onions sliced, 1 green chilli
shredded, 2 ozs. of butter, nutmeg, salt, pepper.
Method. — Divide the fowl into neat joints, fry them lightly in the
butter, remove and keep them hot. Fry the onion until lightly
browned, replace the fowl, add rather more than f of a pint of water,
a good pinch of nutmeg and salt and pepper to taste. Simmer gently
for one hour, and a few minutes before serving stir in the chilli.
Time. — About if hours. Average Cost, 3s. 6d. to 4s. Sufficient for
4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.
3826. — GRAPE JAM.
Ingredients. — 6 lbs. of grapes, 2 lbs. of cooking apples pared and
sliced, 3 lbs. of preserving sugar, 2 pints of water.
Method. — Remove the grapes from the stalks, and prick them with
a darning needlfe. Boil the sugar and water to a syrup (see page
1125), and put in the grapes and apples, and boil gently until
1594
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
a little of the syrup quickly jellies when poured on to a cold plate.
Turn into pots, cover quickly, and store in a dry place.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, 3s. Sufficient for 8 lbs. of jam.
Seasonable when grapes are nearly ripe.
3827. — GREEN TOMATO PRESERVE.
Ingredients. — 6 lbs. of green tomatoes, 8 lbs. of preserving sugar, 4
lemons, 2\ doz. peach leaves, 3 pieces of ginger, 3 tablespoonfuls of
br rnd}''.
Method. — Cover the tomatoes with water, put in the peach leaves,
and boil very gently until the tomatoes are quite soft, but unbroken.
Drain the water into another pan, add to it the sugar, and boil to a
syrup ( see page 1125). Strain, when cold replace in the pan, put in
the thinly-pared lemon rind and ginger tied together in muslin, the
lemon juice, and the tomatoes. Boil gently until a little of the syrup
jellies quickly when poured on to a cold plate, then stir in the brandy.
Turn into pot, cover at once, and store in a dry place.
Time. — Altogether, 6 or 7 hours. Average Cost, 6s. Sufficient for 12
lbs. of jam. Seasonable when tomatoes are green.
3828. — HONEYCOMB CREAM.
Ingredients.— 1 quart of milk, 1 oz. of castor sugar, \ an oz. of gela-
tine, 3 eggs, vanilla to taste.
Method. — Dissolve the gelatine in a little hot water. Beat the yolks
of the eggs until light, and whisk the whites to a stiff froth. Boil the
milk, stir in the sugar, add the yolks of eggs and dissolved gelatine,
and boil up. Stir in the whites of eggs as lightly as possible, add
vanilla to taste, and turn into a mould previously rinsed with cold
water. Turn out when firm, and serve with boiled custard or com-
pote of fruit.
Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, 8d. or 9d. Sufficient for x
large mould. Seasonable at any time.
3829. — HONING KOCK (HONEY CAKE).
Ingredients. — 3 lbs. of flour, 1 lb. of sugar, 1 \ pints of honey, 2 tea-
spoonfuls of ground cinnamon, 1 teaspoonful of ground cloves, \ a
wineglassful of brandy, 1 oz. of potash (bare weight), 1 teaspoonful
of carbonate of soda.
Method. — Boil the honey and sugar together, stir in the cinnamon,
cloves and potash, remove from the fire and add the brandy. Mix
the flour and soda together in a basin, add the contents of the stewpan,
and knead well. Roll out thinly, put into buttered tins, and bake in
a slow oven for one hour. Cut into squares and keep in an air-tight
tin. Candied citron peel, shredded, will be found an improvement.
Time. — To bake, about 1 hour. Average Cost, 3s. Sufficient for about
3 cakes. Seasonable at any time.
TYPICAL SOUTH AFRICAN DISHES
1 595
3830. — KOESISTERS. (An old Recipe for a Dutch
Sweetmeat.)
Ingredients. — 3 breakfastcupfuls of flour, 1 breakfastcupful of moist
brown sugar, \ a breakfastcupful of oiled butter or fat, 1 good table-
spoonful of yeast, 2 level teaspoonfuls of ground cinnamon, 1 level
teaspoonful of mixed spices, 4 eggs, frying fat.
For the syrup : 3 breakfastcupfuls of white sugar, 1 teaspoonful of
cinnamon, 2 breakfastcupfuls of water.
Method. — Mix all the materials together, knead well, let the dough
remain in a warm place for about \ an hour, then roll it out to about
f- of an inch in thickness. Cut into i|- inch squares, and cook them
in hot fat until crisp and nicely brown. Meanwhile boil the sugar,
cinnamon, and water together ( see page 1125), and dip the cakes into
this prepared syrup. May be kept for months.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, is. to is. 3d. Sufficient for
2 to 2\ lbs. of cakes. Seasonable at any time.
3831. — MACARONI PIE.
Ingredients. — \ of a lb. of macaroni, } of a lb. of grated cheese, 1 oz.
of butter, 1 teaspoonful of made mustard, salt, pepper, paste Nos. 1652
or 1666, £ pint of milk.
Method. — Break the macaroni into short lengths, throw them into
rapidly-boiling salted water, cook until tender, and drain well. Re-
place in the stewpan, stir in the cheese, milk, butter and a good
seasoning of salt and pepper. Turn the preparation into a pie-dish
lined with paste, bake in a moderate oven for about 20 minutes, and
serve hot.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, 5d. to 6d., exclusive of the paste.
Sufficient for 2 or 3 persons. Seasonable at any time.
3832. — MUTTON CHOPS IN BATTER. (A Colonial
Recipe.)
Ingredients. — 6 or 8 small moderately-thin slices cut from a well-hung
leg or loin of mutton, 1 egg, 3 tablespoonfuls of flour, \ a pint of milk,
salt, pepper, nutmeg, frying fat.
Method. — Mix the egg, flour and milk to a smooth batter, and add
a good seasoning of salt and pepper. Sprinkle each slice of meat with
salt, pepper, and a little nutmeg, dip them into the batter, and fry
gently in hot fat until crisp and nicely browned. Batter may also be
made of the above quantities of flour and milk with the addition of
about a teaspoonful of carbonate of soda, the egg of course being
omitled. A tablespoonful of oiled butter, fat, or salad oil will greatly
improve the batter.
Time. — To fry the* chops, from 10 to 15 minutes. Average Cost, 2s.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.
1596 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
3833. — OBLETJES OR OUBLIES. (An old Recipe for
Oublies, Waffles or Wafers.)
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of fine white flour, \ a lb. of castor sugar, 6 ozs.
of butter, 2 eggs, 1 teaspoonful of ground cinnamon, \ of a pint of
wine, salt.
Method. — Beat the butter and sugar to a cream, add and beat in the
yolks of eggs and the wine, and stir in as lightly as possible the stiffly-
whisked whites of the eggs. Pass the flour, cinnamon, and a pinch
of salt through a fine sieve, and add lightly to the other ingredients.
Put about 1 tablespoonful of the batter into the oublie or wafer pan,
over the surface of which it should spread easily, otherwise the batter
must be thinned by adding more wine ; cook quickly over the fire,
remove, and roll while hot.
Time. — To cook each oublie, about 2 minutes. Average Cost, is. 9d.
to 2s. Sufficient for about 2 lbs. Seasonable at any time.
3834. — PEACH PICKLE.
Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of dried peaches, \ a lb. of brown sugar, J a lb.
of salt, 2 ozs. of curry powder, 6 large onions sliced, 6 chillies shredded,
6 large pieces of ginger, 1 tablespoonful of pepper, 1 tablespoonful of
mustard seeds, 1 tablespoonful of coriander seeds, 3 quarts of vinegar,
salad oil.
Method. — Pour the vinegar over the peaches and let them soak for
at least 12 hours. Fry the sliced onions in salad oil until well browned
and drain well. Pound or crush the spices. Boil all together until the
peaches are quite soft but unbroken, then turn into jars or pots, cover
closely, and store for use.
Time. — About 15 hours. Average Cost, 3s. 6d. to 4s. Sufficient for
about 5 quarts. Seasonable at any time.
3835. — PICKLED STEAK.
Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of steak, 2 onions sliced, 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of
tarragon vinegar, 1 tablespoonful of salad oil, 24 white peppercorns,
6 cloves, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped mixed parsley, thyme and
marjoram.
Method. — Place the steak in a deep dish, cover with slices of onions,
add the rest of the ingredients, and let the steak remain in the marinade
for about 12 hours. Drain and wipe well, and grill quickly over a clear
fire. Strain the marinade into a stewpan, boil up, season to taste,
put in the steak and let it cook very gently for about 20 minutes.
Time. — To grill the steak, 7 or 8 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. to
3s. 6d. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
TYPICAL SOUTH AFRICAN DISHES
1597
3836. — POFFERTJES. (Dutch Fritters.)
Ingredients. — 6 ozs. of flour, 4 ozs. of butter, 3 eggs, \ a pint of milk
or water, about \ a lb. of lard.
Method. — Boil the milk or water, then add the butter, stir the flour
in gradually, and cook over the fire until it ceases to adhere to the
stewpan or spoon. Turn on to a dish ; when cool stir in the yolks of
the eggs, beat stiffly, and add lightly the whites of the eggs. Heat
the lard, put in the dough a teaspoonful at a time, fry gently until
nicely browned, turning frequently meanwhile. Dredge liberally with
fine sugar and serve hot.
Time. — To fry, about 15 minutes. Average Cost, is. to is. 3d. Suffi-
cient for 8 or 9 persons. Seasonable at any time.
3837. — SAVOURY RISSOLES. (Frickadels.) (An old
Dutch Recipe.)
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of finely-chopped raw mutton, 2 tomatoes, 2
rather thick slices of stale bread, 1 very small onion finely chopped,
2 eggs, nutmeg, salt and pepper to taste, breadcrumbs, £ of a pint of
curry sauce (No. 241 ), milk, fat for frying.
Method. — Soak the bread in milk, squeeze and drain away all that
remains unabsorbed, and beat out the lumps with a fork. Pass the
tomatoes through a fine sieve. Mix the meat, bread, tomato pulp and
onion together, add nutmeg, salt and pepper to taste, and stir in 1
egg. Shape into small round cakes, coat with egg and breadcrumbs,
and fry in hot fat until nicely browned. Have the curry sauce ready,
put in the rissoles, stew very gently for \ an hour, and serve.
Time. — About ij hours. Average Cost, about is. 3d. Sufficient for
3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.
3838. — SAVOURY RISSOLES. (Frickadels.) (Another
Method.)
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of finely-chopped cooked mutton, 2 slices of
bread, 1 small onion finely chopped, 2 eggs, breadcrumbs, salt, pepper,
and nutmeg to taste, \ a lb. of mushrooms, 2 ozs. of butter, 1 medium-
sized onion sliced, £ of a pint of brown sauce made from bones and
trimmings of meat (see Sauces), milk, fat for frying.
Methods — Soak the bread in milk, squeeze and drain, and then beat
out the lumps. Mix the meat, bread and finely-chopped onion to-
gether, season liberally, and stir in an egg. Form into small cakes,
coat with egg and breadcrumbs, and fry in hot fat. Heat the butter,
fry the sliced onion until lightly browned, put in the mushrooms, and
when they have cooked gently for 20 minutes add the prepared brown
1598
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
sauce. Stir until boiling, put in the rissoles, let all stew gently for
about \ an hour, and serve.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, is. 6d. to is. qd. Sufficient for
4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.
3839. — SWARTZUIR. (An old Cape Recipe.)
Ingredients. — -2 or 3 lbs. of neck of mutton, 1 onion, 1 breakfastcupful
of white flour, 2 ozs. of tamarinds, 1 pint of boiling water, 6 cloves,
1 teaspoonful of brown sugar, salt, pepper, 2 eggs.
Method. — Remove the meat from the bones and cut it into rather
small pieces. Place it in a stewpan with the onion and 1 pint of cold
water. To the pint of boiling water add the tamarinds, cloves, sugar,
and a good seasoning of salt and pepper. Cook the meat gently for
1 hour, and then strain a breakfastcupful of the liquor into another
stewpan, and to this add salt and pepper and the cupful of flour. Stir
over the fire until the dough is well cooked, and when cold work in the
eggs and form into dumplings no larger than a walnut. To the meat
add the tamarinds, water and spices, let it boil well, add the dumplings,
and cook gently for 10 minutes longer.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. to 3s. 6d. Sufficient for
5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
INDIAN COOKERY
CHAPTER LVIII
General Observations on Cookery in India, and
Recipes for Typical Indian Dishes
Housekeeping in India is totally different from housekeeping here.
The mistress cannot undertake the personal supervision of her kitchen,
which is not in the house or bungalow, but outside, and often some
distance away. She will also soon learn (that is supposing she has
been accustomed to English housekeeping) that it is impossible to
treat Indian servants in the same manner as those on whom she has
been accustomed to depend for daily service. Indian servants are
good, many of them : but they cannot be trusted and will cheat
if they have a chance, and it is absolutely necessary to look after
the cook (Khansa-man), who will probably be the marketer.
It is best to give him his orders overnight, that he may go early to
the bazaar to buy. There is a tariff of all articles sold at the bazaar,
regulated by the bazaar master and cantonment magistrate : therefore,
having mastered the value of the various coins and a few words for
everyday wants in the way of food, it should be difficult for your
Khansa-man to exercise his proclivities for defrauding you.
Drink is the greatest expense in housekeeping. The climate is a
thirsty one, and the water is bad, and so filled with animalcule that it
cannot be drunk with safety unless it is boiled and filtered. Then
it is so flat and unpalatable that it is necessary to add something to
make it more pleasant to the taste.
One of the most refreshing drinks is lime-juice and water, and iced
tea is another very pleasant beverage. Bottled beer is a favourite
drink, but this, as well as draught beer, is expensive. Still, drinking
is, after all, more of a habit than a necessity : and those in India
who wish to preserve their constitutions should drink as few “ pegs ”
(as the brandies and sodas and other drinks are generally denominated)
as possible.
1599
i6oo
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Food in India is not dear, and the fact of only having to provide for
the family and not for any servants makes a very great difference in
the trouble of housekeeping. Indian cooks are clever, and will turn
out a good dinner with simple materials which an ordinary English
cook would waste or convert into the plainest meal.
Meat being eaten so soon after it is killed, even if for no other reason,
is not good : the beef is coarse, sinewy, and tasteless, and the mutton
decidedly inferior in quality. Fortunately Indian cooks are so
clever in disguising the insipidity of both, otherwise meat would be
very unpalatable. English ham is considered a delicacy : other pork
is not eaten in India. Goat’s flesh is sometimes cooked, but it is
anything but pleasant to English tastes.
Poultry. — Chickens are plentiful and cheap, but inferior in quality to
well-fed French and English birds. Notwithstanding this they play
an important part in the Indian diet, and the native cooks are very
skilful in preparing them for the table.
Game and Poultry. — Generally speaking, India abounds with game.
Deer of many species are to be found in different parts of the country,
and most of them afford excellent venison. High up in the Himalayas
the ibex (a wild goat) and the ovis ammon (a wild sheep) are to be
found, but their flesh is rarely tasted, except by sportsmen, though
sometimes seen in the hill summer stations. Wild boar are found in
most parts of the peninsula. The bison is also shot, and affords beef.
Bears in great variety are found in the hills, and hunters appreciate
the hams and stewpans prepared in the Russian fashion. Hares and
rabbits are also abundant in some parts of the country : the Himalayas
afford pheasants, partridges are abundant in the plains, snipe are
plentiful and well flavoured, while quails and teal are better in India
than almost anywhere else. Swampy districts abound with water-
fowl, including wild geese.
Fish in the mountain streams are both plentiful and excellent in
quality, but those found in the rivers of the plains are lightly esteemed.
The murrel, which somewhat resembles the English pike or carp, pro-
vides a palatable dish. The native cook generally fills them with
stuffing and either bakes or stews the fish over a slow fire. The sea
affords an abundant supply ; the seer is not unlike the salmon, and
is usually dressed in the same way. The pomplet resembles turbot
or brill, the hilsa is almost identical with our mackerel, while the
Calcutta becktie, in size and appearance, is similar to the cod.
Vegetables. — Most parts of India are well provided with vegetables.
Many European varieties are grown specially for the markets of big
towns, and the hill stations are well supplied in this respect. Apart
from these, there are many native varieties, such as the bringales or
egg plants, maize, pumpkins, yams, sweet potatoes, and mollay which
yields leaves that may be treated like our young greens or spinach.
Yams and sweet potatoes may be baked, boiled or stewed, and served
INDIAN COOKERY
1601
in that condition, or they may be converted into purees : the yam
sliced also makes delicious sweet fritters. Horseradish is grown, but
not abundantly, and very frequently the root of the moringa or drum-
stick tree is scraped and used in its place.
Fruit is well known to be plentiful in India, but many varieties
cultivated there lack the fine flavour that characterizes the English
fruit of the same class. Peaches are poor and not well flavoured,
grapes are thick skinned and have a strong muscat flavour, plantains
are insipid, and a taste for the turpentine flavour of the mango is not
easily acquired, although most people who have lived long in India
are fond of them. Amongst the best of the fruits indigenous to the
country are bananas, dates, melons, and coeoanuts. English vege-
tables, with proper care, grow well, and Indian cooks, properly in-
structed, will cook them, as well as anything else, in the way we are
accustomed to have them cooked at home.
The culinary arts followed by the Hindus and Mohammedans of
Asia differ considerably, for while meat is rigidly excluded from the
diet of the former, the Mohammedan indulges in it freely. The Hindu
delights in farinaceous foods such as cakes of wheat and other grain,
rice variouslv dressed, also curries prepared from vegetables, ghee, oil,
acid vegetables or fruit, the whole flavoured with spices ; and the
piquancy is further heightened by the chutneys and pickles served with
them. The principal dishes of the Mohammedan are curries, pilleaus,
brianes, hashes, and cakes.
A glance at the Oriental recipes for curries at once explains why
those served in England differ so widely from the preparations in India.
Some of the ingredients employed are unknown to us, all of them are
used in a green state, and consequently impart a better flavour to the
dish of which they form a part. Ghee, a substance largely used in
making curries, differs from ordinary clarified butter, inasmuch as it
is flavoured with ground cloves and green mint, cooked in the butter
while it is being clarified. Curries are best when made in an earthen-
ware vessel like the natives’ “ chattie,” or the French casserole, and
stirred with a wooden spoon. When making a curry in a stewpan,
great care must be taken that the metal is well tinned. In India
curries are very generally served with thin wafer-like cakes, called
Papodums, and thin strips of dried fish, known as Bombav Ducks.
The pilleau is a purely Oriental dish, and mav consist of meat,
venison, poultry, or kid. Frequently the principal substance is stewed
down, and the gravy containing the essence used to flavour the rice,
the articles themselves seldom appearing in their original state. Some-
times the inferior parts of the meat, or whatever is being used, is
reduced to a strong gravy, and mixed with parboiled rice, and the
prime parts either roasted, grilled, or boiled separately. When the
rice has absorbed the gravy, the prepared meat is placed in the centre
of it in a closed stewpan, and cooked very gently for a considerable
3F
1602
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
time. Rice not only forms part of the dish, but it is sometimes served
as an accompaniment, being previously plainly boiled and mixed with
a little butter or ghee.
Rice also enters into the composition of “ brianes,” which are highly
spiced and seasoned dishes, resembling a mixture of curry and pilleau.
The meat, game, fish, etc., is lightly fried, then put into a stewpan
with rice, stock, various seasoning and flavouring ingredients, covered
closely, and cooked very gently until done.
Except that the meat is thinly sliced, the Oriental hash bears not
the least resemblance to the English production so named. The
numerous spices, vegetables, and condiments which enter largely into
their composition naturally produce a more palatable dish than a hash
that simply consists of slices of cold meat warmed in a thin, insipid
liquid, which frequently represents an amateur cook’s idea of a brown
sauce. As regards culinary apparatus, the native cook’s requirements
are extremely simple. With the aid of a fireplace made of clay, a few
earthen dishes, and other utensils of a primitive description, he will
produce excellent results.
The following recipes will be more generally useful in India, where
all the materials contained in them are easily obtained. As a matter
of convenience, the quantities are expressed in the commercial weights
of this country, but the appended table of equivalents will enable the
reader to easily convert Avoirdupois into Indian weight —
i seer
i chittack
tolahs .
i masher
. 2 lb.
. . . 2 OZ.
. . . I OZ.
. 19 grains
(or about -J- of a teaspoonful).
Typical Indian Dishes
3840.— BRIANE MAHEE.
Ingredients. — r2 lbs. of white fish, 1 lb. of rice, | of a lb. of ghee, or butter,
2 ozs. of roasted chennah, or other ground meal, 2 ozs. of green ginger,
2 ozs. of coriander seeds, 1 oz. of anise, £ of a teaspoonful each of
ground cloves, cardamoms, cinnamon, cumin seeds and saffron, 2
or 3 tablespoonfuls of gingly oil, 2 onions sliced, £- of a pint of
buttermilk, salt.
Method. — Wash and clean the fish, cut it into pieces convenient for
serving, dry thoroughly, pour over it the gingly oil, and let it stand
for \ an hoar. Wash off the oil, dry the fish well, rub it all over with
the chennah and anise pounded or ground, allow it to stand for a few
TYPICAL INDIAN DISHES
1603
minutes, then wash it again. Now pour over it the buttermilk, add
the cardamoms and cloves, a teaspoonful of salt, the juice of the green
ginger, and let it soak for 1 hour. Fry the onions in a little hot ghee,
add the ginger, coriander, cinnamon, cumin and saffron, put in the fish,
and cover with the rice, previously parboiled. Add a little of the
buttermilk, pour over the whole the melted ghee, cover closely, and
cook as slowly as possible for about 1 hour, serve hot.
Time. — hours. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Cost, is. 9d. to
2S. 3d.
3841. — BRIANE NOORMALEE.
Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of lean mutton, 2 lbs. of rice, \ of a lb. of ghee or
other fat, \ of a lb. of green chumah dhall, 2 onions sliced, \ an oz. of
green ginger, } of a teaspoonful each of coriander seeds, cinnamon,
cloves, cardamoms, cumin seeds and saffron, \ of a pint of good gravy,
salt.
Method. — Slice the meat, sprinkle it liberally with salt and pounded
ginger, let it remain for about \ an hour, then pour over it the gravy.
Allow the meat to soak for 1 hour, turning it 2 or 3 times, and adding
a little more gravy if necessary, then drain it well, and dip each slice
in flour seasoned with salt. Heat a little ghee in a stewpan, fry the
onions until well browned, then add the meat, and fry it also. As
soon as the meat is lightly browned, sprinkle in the coriander seeds,
previously ground, pour in the gravy in which the meat was soaked, and
cook gently until it has become evaporated or absorbed. Meanwhile,
parboil the rice in water, then drain it well, and stir in the saffron.
As soon as the meat is sufficiently dry add the coriander, cinnamon,
cloves, cardamoms and cumin seeds, all previous^ pounded or ground,
mix well together, place the rice on the top, over which spread the
green chumah dhall, and pour upon it the remaining ghee previously
melted. Cover closely, and cook as slowly as possible for about 40
minutes, then serve.
Time. — 2 hours. Sufficient for 6 persons. Cost, 2s. 3d.
3842. — BURLAS.
This term is applied to a mixture of vegetables, fried in ghee (frying
fat or butter). A favourite mixture is cabbage and potato, known
to us as “Coleanum.”
3843- — CALCUTTA BECTIE, TO COOK.
This fish may be cooked according to the numerous recipes for
dressing ccd ( see Nos. 428-447), a fish it somewhat resembles.
3844.— CEYLON LOBSTER CURRY.
Ingredients. — 1 large lobster, 1 large cucumber, 1 small cocoanut,
2 ozs. of butter, 3 ozs. of chopped onions, or shallots, 1 clove of garlic
verj^ finely chopped, 1 dessertspoonful of thinly-sliced green ginger,
1604
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1 dessertspoonful of rice flour, i teaspoonful of ground turmeric, i
teaspoonful of salt, \ a teaspoonful of sugar, \ a teaspoonful of ground
cloves, \ a teaspoonful of ground cinnamon, of a pint of fish stock,
lemon-juice.
Method. — Peel the cucumber, cut it lengthwise into quarters, across
into pieces 2 inches long, and carefully remove the seeds. Have
ready a saucepan of salted boiling water, put in the cucumber, cook
gently until three-quarters done, then drain well. Break the cocoanut
in half, saving the milk from the inside, and scrape or chop the white
part of the nut finely. Pour \ of a pint of boiling water over the
cocoanut, let it stand for 20 minutes, then strain off the liquid, and put
it aside. Cover the grated nut again with -J- of a pint of boiling water,
let it remain for at least \ an hour, then strain through fine muslin
2 or 3 times, squeezing the nut well each time. Fry the onions and
garlic lightly in hot butter, add the rice flour, turmeric, cinnamon,
cloves, sugar and salt, stir and cook very slowly for 15 minutes, then
put in the pieces of lobster and cucumber, cover closely, and let the
stewpan stand away from the fire for \ an hour, in order that the con-
tents may become thoroughly impregnated with the flavour of the
curry sauce. At the end of this time, re-heat, add the first infusion
of the cocoanut and 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, bring to boiling
point, and serve.
Time. — i-g- hours. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Cost, is. 9d. to 2s.
3845. — CHILWARS, TO COOK.
See directions for dressing whitebait (No. 687). They are served
with fresh cut limes instead of lemons.
3846. — CHITCHKEE CURRY.
Ingredients. — 2 onions sliced, 1 \ pints of cooked vegetables, 1 table-
spoonful of curry powder, rice.
Method. — The vegetables should comprise cauliflower, turnip, carrot,
French beans, potato and any others in season, all of which should be
cut into dice or small pieces. Heat the ghee, fry the onions, sprinkle
in the curry powder, cook for about 20 minutes, and add the vegetables.
Toss over the stove until thoroughly hot, adding a little gravy if too
dry, and serve with boiled rice.
Time. — \ an hour. Sufficient for3 or 4 persons.
3847. — CURRY OF FISH.
Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of fish, \ a lb. of onions sliced, 2 ozs. of ghee or
butter, \ an oz. each of green chillies, dried chillies, green ginger,
turmeric, cumin seeds, coriander seeds, \ of an oz. of fenugreek, 1 clove
of garlic finely-chopped, \ a pint of fish stock or milk, salt, the juice
of 2 tamarinds.
TYPICAL INDIAN DISHES
1605
Method. — Put \ the onions into a mortar, add the dried chillies,
ginger, turmeric, cumin, coriander, fenugreek, garlic and a dessert-
spoonful of salt, and pound until smooth. Fry the remaining onions
in hot ghee until lightly browned, add the fish, previously washed,
well-dried and cut into small slices, fry lightly, then add the stock or
milk, the pounded ingredients, the juice of the tamarinds, and the green
ginger, and cover closely. Cook slowly for 20 minutes, then serve with
plainly boiled rice.
Time. — 45 minutes. Cost, is. iod. to 2s. Sufficient for 5 persons.
3848. — CURRY OF FOWL.
Ingredients. — -i fowl, 2 ozs. of ghee or butter, \ a lb. of Kabool chennah
or Indian corn, \ a lb. of onions sliced, \ an oz. of green ginger, \ an oz.
of coriander seeds, ^ of a teaspoonful each of black pepper, ground
cinnamon, cloves and cardamoms, salt.
Method. — Cut the fowl into neat joints, place them in a stewpan
barely covered with cold water, add the sliced onions, coriander seeds,
green ginger, pepper, 1 dessertspoonful of salt and the Kabool chennah
previously well washed, and cook until the fowl is tender. Mix the
ground cinnamon, cloves and cardamom together, moisten with a little
cold stock or water, add the strained liquor from the fowl, stir until
it boils, and simmer gently for 20 minutes. Fry the fowl in hot ghee
until nicely browned, put it into the stewpan containing the curry
sauce, and let it stand for 20 minutes where it will keep hot. Serve
with plainly boiled rice.
Time. — 1^ hours. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Cost, 3s. 6d. to
3s. iod.
3849. — CURRY OF MUTTON.
Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of lean mutton, 2 ozs. of ghee or butter, 4- a lb. of
onions (sliced), \ a lb. of pounded almonds, J of an oz. of green ginger,
\ a teaspoonful of saffron, of a teaspoonful of ground cloves, l of a
teaspoonful of ground cardamoms, the juice of 5 limes, 1 clove of garlic,
£ of a pint of cream, \ a teaspoonful of black pepper, salt.
Method. — Pound the green ginger with a little ghee, season it well with
salt, and rub it into the meat, previously cut into small thin slices.
Let it stand for \ an hour, and meanwhile fry the onions in hot ghee
until lightly browned. Put the meat into the stewpan, add the garlic
very finely-chopped, ground cloves, cardamom seeds and pepper, and
fry until the meat is cooked, taking care the onions do not become
burnt. Now add the cream, ground almonds, saffron, the juice of the
limes, and salt to taste, cover closely, and cook as slowly as possible
for 20 minutes. Serve with plainly boiled rice.
Time. — 2\ hours. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Cost, 2s. 2d.
i6o6
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
3850. — CURRY POWDER.
Ingredients. — 8 ozs. of turmeric, 6 ozs. of coriander seeds, 3 ozs. of
cardamoms, 3 ozs. of cumin, 3 ozs. of fenugreek, 1 oz. of cloves, 1 oz. of
white peppercorns, \ of an oz. of cayenne.
Method. — Thoroughly dry and pound the above ingredients, first
separately, then all together. When well mixed, pass the whole
through a fine sieve, put the preparation into dry bottles, cork tightly,
and store for use.
Time. — 1 hour. Sufficient for i| lbs. of powder. Cost, is. to is. 2d.
3851. — CUTHEEREE.
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of rice, \ a pint of split dhall or dried peas, J of a
teaspoonful of ginger, % of a teaspoonful of mace, salt, 4 hard-boiled
eggs, 2 small boiled onions, or onions sliced and fried.
Method. — Soak the dhall or peas in water overnight, then wash them
well, and also wash the rice. Cover the dhall or peas with water,
add the ginger, mace and salt to taste, cook until half done, then add
the rice. Cover closely, and cook slowly until the rice is swollen and
tender, stirring very frequently towards the end of the process, when
nearly all the water should have evaporated. Serve garnished with
hard-boiled eggs cut in half, and surrounded by either small boiled
onions, or slices of fried onion.
Time. — hours. Sufficient for 1 dish. Cost, nd. to is. id.
3852. — DAL.
Ingredients. — \ a pint of lentils, of a pint of stock, 2 ozs. of ghee,
1 tablespoonful of curry powder, 3 onions sliced, rice.
Method. — Wash and dry the lentils, cover them with stock, simmer
gently until tender, adding more stock gradually, but when finished
they should be quite dry. Heat the ghee, fry the onions until lightly
browned. Sprinkle on the curry powder, stir for a few minutes, and
add the lentils. Cook gently for about 20 minutes and serve with
well boiled rice.
Time. — i\ hours. Sufficient for 1 dish. Cost, yd. to 9d.
3853. — DAL POOREE.
Ingredients. — \ a pint of lentils, f of a pint of stock, 4 medium-sized
onions coarsely chopped, J of a teaspoonful of ground chillies, \ of a
teaspoonful of ginger and turmeric mixed, \ of a teaspoonful salt, 1
clove of garlic, 2 ozs. of butter paste, ghee.
Method. — Cook the lentils in the stock ( see preceding recipe). Fry the
onions in the butter, stir in the dry prepared lentils, add the chillies,
ginger, turmeric, salt, and garlic and mix well. Roll the paste out
thinly, cut into rounds, place a little of the mixture on one-half of
TYPICAL INDIAN DISHES
1607
the rounds, and cover with the remainder. Press and secure "the
edges, drop the rounds into hot ghee, and fry until nicely browned.
Either plain flour and water or puff paste may be used.
Time. — 1| hours. Sufficient for 1 dish. Cost. iid. to is.
3854. — DUMPOKE.
Ingredients. — 1 boned chicken, 6 or 8 ozs. of rice, 3 ozs. of ghee or
butter, 2 hard-boiled eggs cut into dice, 2 onions cut into dice, stock,
cayenne, salt and pepper.
Method. — Wash, drain, and dry the rice, fry it in i-J- ozs. of hot ghee
or butter until lightly browned, cover with stock and cook till soft,
adding more stock when necessary; but when ready the rice should be
rather dry. Fry the onions in the remainder of the ghee, add the rice,
eggs, and seasoning to taste, and stuff the chicken with the preparation.
Braise gently and serve coated with a good white sauce.
Time. — 2J hours. Sufficient for 5 persons. Cost, 3s. iod. to 4s.
3855. — HASH BOGURRAH.
Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of mutton, -} a lb. of flour, \ a lb. of ghee, or other
fat, 2 ozs. of onions, \ an oz. of ginger, cinnamon, cloves and cardamoms,
J of an oz. of salt, ^ of an oz. of coriander seeds, of a teaspoonful each
of saffron and capsicum pepper, 1 yolk of egg.
Method. — Cut the meat and onions into small thin slices, reduce all
the flavouring ingredients to a fine powder, and mix to a smooth paste
with a little cold water. Fry the whole in hot ghee until well browned,
then barely cover with water, and cook as slowly as possible until the
meat is tender. Meanwhile knead the flour to a smooth paste with
the yolk of egg, roll it out thinly, and cut it info strips about 2 inches
in length and -J- an inch in breadth. Throw the strips into boiling
salted water, cook until done, then drain them well and add them to
the contents of the stewpan about 10 minutes before serving. Serve
with the saffron sprinkled over the hash.
Time. — 2 hours. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Cost, 2s.
3856. — HASH SUNGSHERE.
Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of mutton, 2 ozs. of ghee or other fat, i-J- ozs. of
white cliennah flour, 4 ozs. of rice, % of a lb. each of onions, carrots,
paluk, soya greens, 1 oz. each of blanched almonds and green ginger,
f of an oz. of salt, | an oz. of coriander seeds, {- of a teaspoonful of
cinnamon, -} of a teaspoonful each of cardamoms and cloves, 1 pint of
stock, 1 pint of milk.
Method. — Cut the meat and onions into thin slices, and fry them in
hot ghee until lightly browned. Add the flour, stir over the fire until
it acquires a nut-brown colour, then cover with stock and simmer very
slowly until the meat is half cooked. Strain off the gravy, and again
i6o8
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
fry the meat in hot ghee or fat with the cloves and coriander seeds
previously ground to a fine powder. Replace in the stewpan, add the
strained gravy, stock and milk, bring to the boil, and thicken with
ground rice. Stir over the fire for a few minutes, then add the salt,
spices, carrots, soya and paluk cut into small pieces. Fry the almonds
in hot ghee until well browned, add them to the contents of the stew-
pan, add also the previously well washed and soaked rice, cover closely,
and cook gently for about i hour. Serve hot.
Time. — 1-|- hours. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Cost, 2s. 3d.
3857. — HILSA, TO COOK.
See recipes for dressing Mackerel (Nos. 544-9), which fish the Hilsa
resembles.
3858. — KIDGEREE.
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of rice, 4 ozs. of dal, 4 ozs. onions, 4 ozs. ghee,
a few slices of green ginger, peppercorns, cloves, cardamoms, cinnamon,
salt.
Method. — Cut the onions across into rings, fry them in the hot ghee •
until nicely browned, then remove them and keep them hot and crisp.
Add the dal and rice, previously washed and dried, to the ghee, cook
gently until all the ghee is absorbed, then barely cover with stock or
water and add the ginger and peppercorns, cloves, etc., to taste. Cook
very slowly until quite dry, and serve garnished with the fried onions.
Time. — 45 minutes. Sufficient for 1 dish. Average Cost, is.
3859. — KUBAB FOWL.
Ingredients. — 1 fowl, 2 ozs. of ghee or other fat, 2 ozs. of coriander
seeds, 2 ozs. of green ginger, {- of a teaspoonful of green cloves, J of a
teaspoonful of ground cardamoms, \ a teaspoonful of turmeric, a
teaspoonful of salt, J of a teaspoonful of black pepper, 2 onions sliced,
1 of a pint of stock, £ of a pint of cream.
Method. — Prepare the fowl, truss it for roasting and prick it all
over with a steel skewer or fork. Roast the coriander seed,
crush it with the cloves, cardamoms, ginger, pepper and salt to a
fine powder, and rub the mixture well into the fowl. Heat the
ghee in a stewpan, fry the onions until lightly browned, then sprinkle
in the turmeric, add the cream and stock, and stir until it boils. Place
the fowl in the stewpan, baste it well, cover closely, and cook slowly
until tender, basting it frequently. Serve with the sauce strained over
and round.
Time. — 2 hours. Sufficient for 5 persons. Cost, 3s. iod. to 4s. 3d,
TYPICAL INDIAN DISHES
1609
3860.— KULLEAH YEKHANEE.
Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of lean mutt.on, \ a lb. sliced onion, 2 tablespoon-
fuls of lime juice, 1 tablespoonful of castor sugar, \ a teaspoonful
each of curry powder, ginger and cloves, salt, rice.
Method. — Slice the meat thinly, barely cover it with warm water,
add the onion, lime juice, sugar, curry powder, ginger, cloves and salt
to taste. Simmer very gently from 2 £ to 3 hours, and serve with well
boiled rice.
Time. — 3 hours. Sufficient for 6 persons. Cost, 2s. 3d.
3861.— LIMES, PICKLED.
Ingredients. — 25 limes, 4 ozs. of salt, 4 ozs. of green chillies, 4 ozs. of
green ginger, 2 ozs. of mustard seed freed from husks, 1 oz. of ground
turmeric, i-|- pints of good vinegar.
Method. — Cut the limes across in halves, squeeze out all the juice,
add 2 ozs. of salt, and cover closely. Sprinkle the remaining salt over
the rinds, let them remain for 6 hours, then dry them in the sun for
3 days, or until hard. Boil the chillies, green ginger, mustard seed and
turmeric in the vinegar for 20 minutes. Let the preparation cool,
mix with it the lime juice, and strain it over the lime rinds previously
laid compactly in wide-necked bottles or jars. Cover closely, place
them in the sun for 3 or 4 daj^s, then store for use.
Time. — 5 days. Sufficient for 1 or 2 jars. Cost, uncertain.
3862. — LIME SAUCE.
Ingredients. — Fresh limes, loaf or castor sugar.
Method. — Squeeze the juice from the limes, strain it, and add sugar
to taste. Serve diluted with iced water.
3863. — MANGO CHUTNEY.
Ingredients. — 30 green mangoes, 2 lbs. of sugar, a lb. of salt, 2 lbs. of
raisins stoned, 1 lb. of green ginger, 1 lb. of dried chillies, 4 ozs. of garlic,
3 pints of good vinegar.
Method. — Peel and slice the mangoes, chop them finely, aiso chop finely
the raisins, green ginger and gai'lic. Pound the chillies in a mortar until
smooth, then mix them with the rest of the prepared ingredients.
Dissolve the sugar and salt in the vinegar, bring to the boil, then let
it become quite cold, and mix it with the mangoes, etc. Turn into
wide-necked bottles or jars, cover closely, let them remain in the sun
for 3 or 4 days, then store for use.
Time. — 5 days. Sufficient for 3 jars. Cost, uncertain.
i6io
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
3864.— MANGO PICKLE.
Ingredients. — 50 green mangoes, 1 lb. of dried chillies, 1 lb. of green
ginger finely sliced, \ a lb. of mustard seed, 2 ozs. of garlic, 2 ozs. of
turmeric, vinegar, and salt.
Method. — Peel the mangoes, and partly divide them through the
shell, so as to remove the seed from the inside. Sprinkle them with
salt, and let them remain for 24 hours. Meanwhile boil the turmeric
in 2 quarts of vinegar for 20 minutes, and let it become quite cold.
Pound the chillies until smooth, add the ginger, the mustard seed freed
from husks, the garlic finely-chopped, and mix well together. Fill the
inside of the mangoes with this preparation, place them in jars, sprinkle
over them any of the seasoning preparation that remains, and cover
with vinegar.
Time. — 30 hours or longer. Sufficient for 3 or 4 jars. Cost, uncertain.
3865. — MOLE.
Ingredients. -Cooked fish, chicken or meat, 1 small cocoanut, 2 ozs. of
butter, 2 ozs. of finely-chopped shallots, 1 clove of garlic finely-chopped,
1 dessertspoonful of rice flour, 1 teaspoonful of finely-sliced green
ginger, the skin of 1 red chilli, the skin of 1 green chilli, both finely-
shredded, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, salt.
Method. — Break the cocoanut, remove and preserve the milk, and
scrape or chop the white part of the nut finely. Cover with a of a pint
of boiling water, let it stand for 20 minutes, then strain off the liquid
and put it aside. Again cover the nut with the same quantity of
boiling water, let it stand for at least an hour, then strain 2 or 3 times
through fine muslin, squeezing the nut well each time. Fry the shallots
and garlic in hot butter without browning, stir in the rice flour,
add the second infusion of cocoanut, and boil well. When ready,
add the first infusion of cocoanut, boil up, add lemon-juice and salt to
taste, put in the green ginger, shredded chillies, prepared fish, chicken
or meat, make thoroughly hot, and serve.
Time. — 1\ hours. Sufficient for 1 dish. Cost, iod. to is. qd.
3866. — PILAU or PILLOFF.
Ingredients. — 1 chicken, 4 ozs. of butter or ghee, 4 ozs. of rice, 2
green mangoes sliced, 4 or 5 onions sliced, 2 doz. stoned raisins, 1 doz.
almonds coarsely shredded, 3 hard-boiled eggs, salt, cloves.
Method. — Truss the chicken as for boiling, fry it in 3 ozs. of butter
or ghee until the whole surface is lightly browned, then add the mangoes
and onions. Fry gently for 10 or 15 minutes longer, barely cover with
white stock or water, add 6 cloves and salt to taste. Simmer gently
for | of an hour, then transfer to a baking vessel, baste with hot ghee,
and roast gently for nearly an hour. Meanwhile boil the rice in the
TYPICAL INDIAN DISHES
1611
stock until tender, then strain and reduce the stock by rapid boiling.
Place the rice in a small pan, add i oz. of butter, the raisins and
almonds, and make thoroughly hot. Serve the rice round the chicken,
garnish with sections of egg, and serve some of the well reduced sauce
separately.
Time. — 2 hours. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Cost, 3s. 6d.
3867. — PILAU OF FOWL.
Ingredients. — 1 fowl, 1 lb. of lean mutton, \ a lb. of rice, 6 onions,
3- of a lb. of ghee or butter, 12 black peppercorns, 10 cloves, 10 carda-
moms, 2 blades of mace, 3 currypak leaves, j- of an oz. of green ginger,
5 quarts of cold water, 1 dessertspoonful of salt, hard-boiled eggs.
Method. — Slice the mutton, put it into a stewpan with 4 onions cut in
halves, the water and salt, and bring to the boil. Skim if necessary,
put in the fowl, cook gently until tender, then put aside until required.
Let the contents of the stewpan continue to simmer until the liquor
is reduced to -§• its original quantity, then strain and press the meat
well so as to extract all the juices. Slice the remaining onions, fry them
brown in ghee previously heated in a stewpan, then drain them from
the fat. Re-heat the fat and fry the fowl, turning it frequently to
equalize the cooking. When well browned remove it and fry the rice,
which must be previously washed and thoroughly dried. Add the
peppercorns, cloves, cardamoms, mace, currypak leaves, green ginger
thinly sliced, a little salt if necessary, and as the butter becomes ab-
sorbed add gradually the liquor in which the fowl and meat were
cooked. When the rice is tender, draw the stewpan aside, put in the
fowl with the rice piled over and round it, and let it remain until some
of the moisture has evaporated, leaving the rice swollen and moderately
dry. Serve the fowl imbedded in rice, and garnished with hard-
boiled eggs cut in quarters.
Time. — 3 hours. Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons. Average Cost, 4s. 6d.
3868. — PILAU OF MUTTON.
Ingredients. — z\ lbs. of lean mutton, 2 lbs. of rice, \ a lb. of onions
sliced, J of a lb. of ghee or butter, 1 oz. of raisins stoned, 1 oz. of almonds
blanched, 1 oz. of pistachio nuts blanched, 1 oz. of dried apricots
sliced, \ an oz. of green ginger thinly sliced, J of a teaspoonful of ground
cinnamon, jj- of a teaspoonful each of ground cloves, ground cardamoms,
cumin seeds, and black pepper, 6 eggs, salt.
Method. — Mince £ of the meat finely, and cut the rest into slices
convenient for serving. Put the sliced meat into a stewpan, add the
onions and ginger, the coriander and 1 teaspoonful of salt, cover with
cold water, cook very gently until the meat is tender, then strain off
the stock. Meanwhile the rice should have been well washed, parboiled
qnd drained ; now put it into the stewpan with the stock and simmer
l6l2
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
until the rice is tender, and the stock has become evaporated or ab-
sorbed. Heat J of the ghee in another stewpan, put in the slices of
meat, sprinkle over them the ground cloves, cumin seeds, and a little
cinnamon and cardamom, then toss over the fire for a few minutes.
Spread the prepared rice over the meat, pour on a little melted ghee,
cover closely, and cook very gently for \ an hour. Heat the remain-
ing ghee in another pan, put in the minced mutton with a little salt,
and toss it over the hre until lightly browned. Add the rest of the
flavouring ingredients, the raisins, almonds, pistachios, apricots, and
a well-beaten egg, and stir by the side of the fire for a few minutes.
Serve the slices of meat imbedded in the rice, spread the minced pre-
paration on the top, and garnish with the remaining eggs either fried
or poached.
Time. — 1 \ hours. Sufficient for 5 to 8 persons. Cost, 3s. 2d.
3869.— POMEGRANATE JUICE.
Ingredients. — 6 pomegranates, l- a lb of castor sugar, the juice of 3
limes, i pint of water.
Method. — Press the pulp of the pomegranates through a very fine
sieve, add the sugar and lime-juice, and dilute with the water. Strain
several times through muslin, then bottle for use.
Time. — 1 to 2 hours. Sufficient for 1 bottle. Cost, uncertain.
3870. — POMPLET, TO COOK.
This fish is not unlike turbot or brill, and may be treated according
to the directions given for dressing turbot and brill ( see Fish Section).
3871. — POOLOOT.
Ingredients. — 1 fowl, 1 lb. of rice, 4 ozs. of butter, 1 oz. of green ginger
finely-sliced, 3 onions sliced, 3 onions finely-chopped, \ of a teaspoon-
ful of black pepper, £ of a teaspoonful of ground cardamom seeds, 1
quart of stock, 6 hard-boiled eggs, rolls of fried bacon, the juice of 1
lemon, salt.
Method. — Wash, parboil and drain the rice. Truss the fowl for
boiling, place it in a stewpan with the rice under and round it, add the
chopped onions, green ginger, lemon-juice, 1 teaspoonful of salt, and
a little stock. Cover closely, and cook as gently as possible, adding
more stock from time to time. When the fowl is sufficiently cooked
take it up and cut it into neat joints, keep it hot and dry by the
side of the fire. Heat the butter in a stewpan, fry the remaining
onions until lightly browned, then drain them and keep them hot. Fry
the fowl in the same butter, turning it frequently that all parts may be
equally browned, Pile the rice in the centre of a hot dish, arrange the
TYPICAL INDIAN DISHES
1613
pieces of fowl on the top with the fried onions interspersed, and garnish
the base with quarters of hard-boiled eggs and rolls of fried bacon.
Time. — 2\ hours. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Average Cost, 4s.
3872. — QUOORMA CURRY.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of lean mutton, 2 ozs. of butter, 3 ozs. of shallots or
onions finely-chopped, 1 clove of garlic very finely chopped, 1 dessert-
spoonful of finely-grated green ginger, 1 dessertspoonful of rice flour,
1 teaspoonful of ground coriander seed, 1 teaspoonful of ground black
pepper, -j- a teaspoonful of ground cardamoms, \ a teaspoonful of ground
cloves, 1 teaspoonful of ground turmeric, 1 saltspoonful of sugar, 1
pint of mutton stock, \ a pint of milk, 2 ozs. of ground almonds, the
juice of 1 lemon, salt.
Method. — Cut the meat into £ inch squares, sprinkle over them the
ginger and a good seasoning of salt, and let them remain for 1 hour.
Melt the butter in a stewpan, fry the shallots and garlic until lightly
browned, then add the rice flour, coriander, pepper, cardamoms and
cloves, and cook gently for 10 minutes. Add the stock, boil up and
simmer gently for 15 minutes, then pour over the meat, and let it stand
covered for \ an hour. When ready, turn the whole into a stewpan,
boil up, and cook as slowly as possible for \ an hour, or until the meat
is quite tender. Meanwhile soak the pounded almonds in the milk,
and when the meat is tender, strain the milk 2 or 3 times through fine
muslin, pressing the almonds well each time, then add it to the con-
tents of the stewpan. Mix the turmeric smoothly with a little stock
or water, stir it in, add the sugar and salt to taste, and continue to cook
as slowly as possible for 20 minutes longer. Add the lemon-juice just
before serving.
Time. — 2 hours. Sufficient for 4 persons. Average Cost, is. 7d. to
is. 9d.
3873. — SEER OR SEIR-FISH, TO COOK.
This fish inhabits the seas of the West Indies, and is one of the most
valuable products of those parts. In size and form it is not unlike the
salmon, but its flesh is white, although similar in point of firmness and
flavour. Many of the recipes for cooking salmon which are included
in the section devoted exclusively to fish, are applicable to the dressing
of seer.
3874. — TAMARIND SAUCE.
Ingredients. — Ripe tamarinds, castor sugar.
Method. — Pack the fruit compactly in a fireproof jar, sprinkling each
layer lightly with sugar, and cover closely. Cook in a cool oven until
tender, then rub through a fine sieve, and put into jars. Fasten
securely so as to completely exclude the air, and store for use.
Time. — 2 to 3 hours. Sufficient for 1 jar. Cost, uncertain,
AMERICAN AND
CANADIAN COOKERY
CHAPTER LIX
Cookery in the cities of America and Canada differs very little if at all
from cookery in England. If Caneton a l’Aylesbury were substituted
for the Canvas-back Duck, which appears in the menu of a banquet
recently given at the White House, in every other respect — as regards
materials employed and arrangement of service — it would correspond
with similar functions at the Mansion House. Evidently the French
cuisine is as much appreciated and as much sought after in America
and Canada as in England : although, like every other nation,
Americans and Canadians have several dishes prepared from fish,
animals, and fruits which are common to the country.
Fish. — The employment of fish in America as a diet is exceptionally
large, the immense extent of the American coasts, both Atlantic
and the Pacific, being still further supplemented by the resources
of the large rivers and great lakes, so that a constant supply is
obtainable of not only most of the varieties esteemed in England,
but of others unknown to us. Of these latter we may mention the
blue fish { Temnodon saltator), a member of the family Scombendae,
is abundant on the east coast of North America. It is from 2 to 3 feet
in length, and in appearance is silvery below and bluish above : hence
its name. The Cusk, another variety unknown to us, is a cod-like fish
found abundantly in the northern parts of the Atlantic Ocean. There
is also the Taulog, a fish of blackish hue, irregularly barred with green,
and found principally in the Atlantic Ocean, contiguous to the United
States. The Pickerel we are familiar with under another name, for it
corresponds exactly with the English Pike.
Sweet Dishes. — The Americans have a marked taste for sweet dishes, in
which taste they show dietetic wisdom. The value of sugar as an article
of food is sometimes overlooked by people who have accustomed them-
selves to a highly nitrogenous diet. Hot cakes at breakfast are quite a
national institution. These are often made with soda or baking powder,
and must be regarded as somewhat beyond the capacities of average
digestive organs.
1614
TYPICAL AMERICAN AND CANADIAN DISHES 1615
In the manufacture of sweets, called candies, the Americans have
achieved a well recognized reputation, while for ices and iced drinks
of great variety they are very famous.
Typical American and Canadian
Dishes
3875. — APRICOTS, TO DRY.
Ingredients. — Apricots (not quite ripe), sugar.
Method. — Pare, halve and stone the fruit, pack it rather closely in
a firep oof jar, and place the jar in a saucepan of boiling water. Cook
until the apricots are quite tender, then drain well, place them on dishes
in single layers and dredge them liberally with sugar. Let them
remain in a warm place until dry, then pack in air-tight tins, with
paper between each layer. Peaches, nectarines and plums may be
dried by above method.
Time. — About 24 hours. Seasonable from August to September.
3876. — BLUEFISH, BAKED.
Ingredients. — 1 bluefish, 1 cupful of cracker (biscuit) crumbs, 2 table-
spoonfuls of butter, 1 tablespoonful of capers, 1 tablespoonful of lemon
juice, 1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley, 1 teaspoonful of salt, j of a
teaspoonful of pepper, about \ a cupful of cold water.
Method. — Wash and dry the fish. Mix all the ingredients together,
stuff the fish with the mixture, and secure the opening. Place the fish
in a dish or baking tin, which place in a large tin containing boiling
water, and bake gently from 45 to 60 minutes, meanwhile basting the
fish occasionally with butter or fat. Serve with a suitable sauce.
Time. — To bake, about 1 hour. Average Cost, is. 6d. Sufficient for
3 or 4 persons. Seasonable all the year.
3877. — BLUEFISH, TO COOK.
Broiling or grilling will be found peculiarly adapted to this delicious,
but somewhat rich fish. It is also very good boiled or baked.
3878. — BUCKWHEAT CAKES.
Ingredients. — 1 cup of buckwheat flour, \ a cup of Indian corn meal,
I- a cup of fine flour, \ of a cup of brewer’s yeast, \ a teaspoonful of
salt, g- of a teaspoonful of carbonate of soda, 1 pint of boiling milk or
water.
i6i6
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Pour the boiling water or milk over the Indian corn meal,
add the salt, and stir well. Let it remain covered until lukewarm, then
add the buckwheat flour, the white flour, and the yeast, and beat well.
Cover with a cloth, and let the preparation stand all night, and in the
morning repeat the beating. When the batter has risen again, add the
soda dissolved in a little warm water, beat well again, and at once bake
on a griddle.
Time. — To bake, about io minutes. Average Cost, yd. Sufficient for
1 3- lbs. of cakes. Seasonable at any time.
3879.— CANNED CORN.
Ingredients. — 1 can of corn, 1 oz. of butter, \ a pint of milk, 1 tea-
spoonful of milk. 1 teaspoonful of sugar, 1 teaspoonful of salt, 1 salt-
spoonful of pepper.
Method. — Simmer the corn, milk, sugar and seasoning together for
20 minutes, then stir in the butter and serve.
Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, is. 2d. Sufficient for 2 or
3 persons. Seasonable at any time.
Note. — For other recipes see Nos. 1492-1497.
3880.— CHICKEN SOUP AND GREEN CORN.
Ingredients. — 1 chicken or small fowl, 1 dozen ears of green corn,
of a lb. of rice, \ a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the chicken or fowl into neat joints, put these into a
stewpan with just as much cold water as will completety cover them,
and add the corn, which must be previously removed from the cob.
Season with a little salt and pepper, cover closely, and simmer gently
for about 1 hour, adding more water from time to time so as to keep
the whole barely covered. When ready, strain, return the stock and
corn to the stewpan, bring to the boil, put in the rice, and cook gently
for 20 minutes. Cut the meat from the bones and then into dice,
add it with the parsley and necessary seasoning to the contents of the
stewpan, make thoroughly hot, and serve.
Time. — About i-J- hours. Average Cost, 4s. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
Seasonable from July to September.
Maize or Indian Corn grows plentifully and extensively in America. Asia and Africa; it is also
largely cultivated in the south of Germany. Until recent years, this plant with its tall stem, and
flag-like foliage and silvery fringe, was grown in this country almost solely for decorative purposes,
but the cobs themselves were not made use of in England until some market gardeners discovered
the edible value of the cob, that is, the head of the maize plant. These, when ripe, may be eaten in
the green state, and possess a very delicate flavour, which becomes more developed when cooked.
Corn on the cob is the American name given to the head of the maize plant. It is sweeter and better
flavoured if cooked without disturbing the husk, but as the removal of the silk and husk is attended
with some difficulty after cooking, it has become the custom to strip down the husk, remove the silk,
tie the end tightly, and so cook it in seasoned milk and water, ’in equal quantities. It takes from 15 to
20 minutes to boil. If preferred, the corn may be cooked in salted water. It is served in the husks,
and sent to table with melted butter sauce, or oiled butter.
TYPICAL AMERICAN AND CANADIAN DISHES 1617
3881. — CLAM CHOWDER.
Ingredients. — 1 quart of clams, 6 or 8 large potatoes cut into dice, 2
onions cut into dice, 4 ozs. of bacon or pork cut into dice, 4 tomatoes
sliced, 2 level teaspoonfuls of salt, I of a teaspoonful of pepper.
Method. — Wash, drain, and chop the clams. Fry the pork or bacon
and onions until the latter is very lightly browned, put in the potatoes
and tomatoes, barely cover with cold water, add salt and pepper, and
cook gently for about 30 minutes. Put in the clams, add more
seasoning if necessary. Continue to cook slowly for 10 or 15 minutes
longer, and serve. If liked, the chowder may be thickened by adding
crushed cracker (biscuit) crumbs.'
Time. — About 1^ hours. Average Cost, is. 8d. Sufficient for 5 or 6
persons. Seasonable, September to April.
3882. — CLAM SOUP.
Ingredients. — \ a peck of clams in the shell, i-J- pints of milk, 1 pint
of boiling water, 2 ozs. of butter, 2 ozs. of flour, 1 dessertspoonful of
chopped onion, 1 dessertspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, salt and
pepper.
Method. — Wash and brush the clams well, place them in a steamer,
or in a large saucepan with just enough water to prevent the bottom
layer burning, and cook them gently until the shells can be easily
opened with a knife. Remove the fish from the shells, taking care to
preserve all the liquor in the shells and saucepan, and take away the
thin skin. Remove the black end of each clam with a pair of scissors,
and cut the “ leather straps ” into small pieces, keeping the soft and
hard parts of the clams separate until required. Strain the clam liquor
into a stewpan, add the boiling water, onion, the hard parts of the
clams, a little salt and pepper, simmer gently for 20 minutes, then strain.
Melt the butter, stir in the flour, add the clam stock and milk and bring
to the boil. Season to taste, simmer gently for 5 minutes to thoroughly
cook the flour, then add the soft parts of the clams and the parsley,
and serve at once with crackers (biscuits) and pickles.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, is. to is. 3d. Sufficient for 7 or
8 persons. Seasonable from September to April.
3883. — CLAMS AU GRATIN.
Ingredients. — -} a peck of clams in their shells, 2 large tomatoes,
2 tablespoonfuls of fresh breadcrumbs, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped
onion, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, J of a teaspoonful of
powdered mixed herbs, salt and pepper, butter, lightly-browned bread-
crumbs.
Method. — Prepare and cook the clams as directed in “ Clam Soup,”
and chop them finely. Pass the tomatoes through a fine sieve, stir the
i6i8
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
puree into the clams, add the breadcrumbs, onion, parsley, herbs,
seasoning to taste, and as much of the clam liquor as will slightly
moisten the whole. Turn into a well-buttered gratin dish or scallop
shells, cover lightly with slightly-browned breadcrumbs, add a few
bits of butter, and bake from io to 20 minutes in a moderate oven.
Serve hot.
Time.— About 45 minutes. Average Cost, is. 3d. Sufficient for 4 or 5
persons. Seasonable from September to April.
3884. — CLAMS, BAKED.
Ingredients. — Clams, bread and butter.
Method.— Thoroughly wash and dry the clams, and bake them on a
tin in the oven until the shells open. Serve them in the shells, and hand
with thinly cut bread and butter.
Time. — About 25 minutes. Average, Cost, 4d. each person. Sufficient,
allow 12 to each person. Seasonable from September to April.
3885. — CLAMS ON TOAST.
Ingredients. — 2 doz. clams, 2 tablespoonfuls of butter, 1 teaspoonful
of lemon juice, salt and pepper to taste, 3 slices of buttered toast.
Method. — Beard, blanch and dry the clams. Heat the butter, add
lemon juice and seasoning, put in the clams, toss them over the fire
for 2 or 3 minutes, and serve on the prepared toast.
Time.— About 10 minutes. Average Cost, about 6d or 8d. Sufficient,
for 3 persons. Seasonable, September to April.
3886. — COOKIES.
Ingredients. — 2 cups of flour, 1 cup of sugar, \ a cup of butter, } of a
cup of milk, 1 egg, 1 heaped tcaspoonful of baking-powder.
Method. — Cream the butter and sugar together until smooth and
white, then beat in the egg, and stir in the milk. Pass the flour and
baking-powder through a fine sieve, and stir them into the rest of the
ingredients. The mixture must be firm enough to roll out, therefore
dredge in more flour until the right consistency is obtained. Roll out
thinly, stamp into rounds, and bake in a moderately hot oven until
crisp.
Time. — To bake, about 20 minutes. Average Cost, qd. Sufficient for
1 1 lbs. of cookies. Seasonable at any time.
3887. — COOKIES, CARAWAY.
Ingredients. — 3-f cups of flour, 1 cup of butter, \\ cups of sugar, \ a
cup of sour cream or milk, 2 eggs, 1 tablespoonful of caraway seeds, 1
level teaspoonful of soda, salt.
TYPICAL AMERICAN AND CANADIAN DISHES 1619
Method. — Rub the butter into the flour, add the sugar, caraway
seeds and a good pinch of salt, and mix well. Beat the egg until light,
add the soda dissolved in a little warm water, and sour milk or cream.
Mix quickly with the dry ingredients, add as much more flour as may
be necessary to form a light dough, roll out thinly. Cut into rounds
or other shapes, and bake in a moderately hot oven until crisp.
Time. — To bake, about 20 minutes. Average Cost, is. 2d. Sufficient
for 3 lbs of Cookies. Seasonable at any time.
3888.— COOKIES, COCOANUT.
Ingredients. — 2 cups of fine flour, 1 cup of grated or desiccated cocoa-
nut, 1 cup of fine sugar, \ a cup of butter, 2 eggs, 1 tablespoonful of
milk, 1 heaped teaspoonful of baking-powder.
Method. — Cream the butter and sugar together until thick and
white, then beat in the eggs. Add the cocoanut, milk, the flour and
baking-powder previously sieved, and mix well. Roll out, adding
more flour if necessary, stamp into rounds or other shapes, and bake
in a moderately hot oven until crisp.
Time. — To bake, 20 minutes. Average Cost, is. 2d. Sufficient for 21-
lbs. of Cookies. Seasonable at any time.
3889. — CRACKER PUDDING.
Ingredients. — of a lb. of finely-chopped beef suet, 1 cup of cracker
crumbs, 3 cups of milk, 4 eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar, -J- a teaspoonful
of salt.
Method. — Pour the milk over the crushed crackers, and let them
soak while preparing the other ingredients. When ready, mix the suet
with the cracker crumbs, add the sugar, salt, and lastly the well-
beaten eggs, and stir well. Pour the mixture into a greased pie-dish,
and bake from 40 to 50 minutes. Serve hot with jam or fruit sauce.
Time. — To bake, from 40 to 50 minutes. Average Cost, is. 2d.
Sufficient for 1 pudding. Seasonable at any time.
3890. — CRANBERRY SAUCE.
Ingredients. — 1 quart of cranberries, 1 lb. of sugar, 1 pint of water.
Method. — Pick the cranberries carefully, put them into a stewpan
with the water, and cook slowly for about 1 hour, or until reduced
nearly to a pulp. Stir from time to time during the process, and when
they are sufficiently cooked stir in the sugar and turn into a dish to
cool. Serve with turkey, ducks or game.
Time. — From 1 to ij hours. Average Cost, 8d. or 9d. Sufficient, about
1 pint. Seasonable from October to March,
1620
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
3891. — CRULLERS.
Ingredients. — Flour, 1 egg, 1 cup of sugar, 1 cup of sour cream, 1 small
teaspoonful of carbonate of soda, \ a saltspoonful of salt, £ a salt-
spoonful of cinnamon or mace.
Method. — Beat the egg, add the sugar, cream, salt, cinnamon or mace,
the soda dissolved in a little warm water, and as much flour as will
form the whole into a soft dough. Roll out the mixture to about \ an
inch in thickness, stamp into rounds, and take out the centre of each
one with a cutter. Have ready a deep pan of hot fat, fry the crullers
until lightly browned, and serve hot.
Time. — To fry, 10 to 15 minutes. Average Cost, 9d. to lid.
Sufficient for 6 or 8 persons. Seasonable at any time.
3892. — CUP CAKES, PLAIN.
Ingredients. — 3 level cupfuls of flour, 1 cupful of sugar, ^ a cupful of
butter, 1 cupful of milk, 3 eggs, 1 teaspoonful of cream of tartar,
1 teaspoonful of carbonate of soda, the finely grated rind and juice of
1 lemon.
Method. — Sieve the flour, cream of tartar and soda together. Beat
and add the eggs, stir in the milk, lemon rind and juice, and lastly the
flour. Bake in shallow tins or small cups.
Time. — From 20 to 25 minutes to bake. Average Cost, is. to is. 2d.
Sufficient for 2 cakes or 18 small ones. Seasonable at any time.
3893. — CUP CAKES, RICH.
Ingredients. — 4 cupfuls of flour, 2 cupfuls of sugar, 1 cupful of butter,
\ a cupful of milk, 6 eggs, 1 tablespoonful of lemon juice, J a tea-
spoonful of vanilla essence, 1 teaspoonful of cream of tartar, \ a tea-
spoonful of carbonate of soda.
Method. — Beat the butter and sugar to a cream, add the yolks of
eggs, milk and vanilla essence, and after sieving together the flour,
cream of tartar and soda, stir it lightly in. Lastly add the whites of
eggs, previously stiffly whisked. Bake in a fairly hot oven.
Time. — To bake, about 1 hour. Average Cost, 2s. to 2s. 2d. Sufficient
for 2 cakes. Seasonable at any time.
3894. — DRIED FRUIT (Apples, Apricots, Nectarines,
Peaches, etc.).
Ingredients. — Fruit, sugar, lemon rind, cloves or cinnamon to flavour
Method. — The following method is applicable to any of the dried
fruits from California and other countries. Rinse or wash the fruit
in cold water, cover it with fresh cold water, and let it remain in soak
for 10 or 12 hours until well swollen. Turn both fruit and water into
a stewpan or a jar placed in a pan of boiling water, and cook gently
TYPICAL AMERICAN AND CANADIAN DISHES 1621
until the fruit is tender. Sugar to taste, or sugar boiled to a syrup
(see To Clarify Sugar for Syrup, No. 2599), and flavouring ingredients
should be added when the fruit is about half cooked. When syrup is
used the water required for it should be taken from the vessel con-
taining the fruit, unless a rather liquid compote is liked. The water
in which the fruit soaks always extracts some of the flavour of the
fruit, and the latter should therefore be cooked in it. Much stirring
should be avoided, as dried fruit, when nearly cooked, breaks easily.
Newtown pippins, from which the peel and cores have been removed,
and Normandy pippins, from which only the peel is removed, may
require soaking a little more than apple rings and apple chips.
Time. — Altogether ii£ to 13-^ hours. Average Cost, 6d. to 8d. per lb.
Sufficient, \ lb. of fruit for 1 good dish. Seasonable at any time.
3895. — GRAHAM BREAD.
Ingredients. — 1 quart of Graham flour, 1 quartern of ordinary flour, \ a
cupful of molasses, \ a cupful of liquid yeast (or 1 oz. of compressed
yeast), 1 level tablespoonful of salt, about if pints of warm water.
Method. — Mix the Graham and ordinary flour and the salt together,
add the molasses, yeast and water, and beat well for 20 minutes. Cover
the bowl, let the dough remain undisturbed all night, and in the morn-
ing shape it into 2 or 3 loaves. Let them rise to nearly double their
original size, then bake in a fairly hot oven for about 1^ hours. The
dough is so soft that it cannot be moulded, but it may be made into
rolls by means of French roll pans.
Time. — To bake, about \\ hours. Average Cost, iod. Sufficient for
2 loaves. Seasonable at any time.
3896. — GRAHAM GRIDDLE CAKES.
Ingredients. — 1 cupful of Graham flour, 1 cupful of ordinary flour,
2 eggs, 1 pint of sour milk (or sweet milk and 2 teaspoonfuls of cream
of tartar), 1 teaspoonful of carbonate of soda, \ a teaspoonful of salt,
1 tablespoonful of sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls of oiled butter.
Method. — Dissolve the carbonate of soda in a little warm water. Mix
the Graham and ordinary flour, salt, sugar (and cream of tartar, if
used) together. Beat the eggs, add the butter, milk and dissolved
soda, mix with the flour, and beat or knead until smooth. Fry on the
griddle and serve hot.
Time. —To bake each cake, about 10 minutes. Average Cost, iod. to
1 id. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons, Seasonable at any time.
3897. — GRIDDLE BREAD.
Ingredients. — 1|- pints of flour, ij pints of warm water (about), 2
1622
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
tablespoonfuls of oiled butter, 2 heaped teaspoonfuls of baking powder,
1 level teaspoonful of salt, 1 egg.
Method. — Mix the flour, baking powder and salt together. Beat the
eggs, add the butter and water to them, and mix with the flour. Knead
well, adding a little more water should the dough be too stiff. Form
at once into cakes, and cook on the griddle.
Time. — To cook each cake, about 10 minutes. Average Cost, yd. to 8d.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
3898. — HALIBUT, BAKED.
Ingredients. — 3 lbs. of halibut, milk, salt and pepper, tomato sauce
(see “Sauces,” No. 281).
Method. — Dip the dark portion of the skin into boiling water, and
scrape it clean. Season the entire surface lightly with salt and pepper,
and place the fish in an earthenware baking-dish, surrounded with
milk to the depth of nearly 1 inch. Bake gently for 1 hour, basting
frequently, then serve with tomato sauce. If preferred, serve with
egg or white sauce, in the preparation of which the liquor from the fish
should be used.
Time. —To bake, about 1 hour. Average Cost, 2s. to 3s. Sufficient
for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable from May to January.
3899. — HALIBUT STEAKS.
Ingredients. — 2 or 3 slices of halibut, 1 egg, 1 tablespoonful of flour,
crackers, salt and pepper, frying-fat, parsley.
Method. — Wipe and thoroughly dry the fish, season the flour with
salt and pepper, and dip each slice of fish in the mixture. Coat care-
fully with beaten egg and powdered crackers, and fry in hot fat until
lightly browned. Drain well, and serve on a dish paper or folded
serviette garnished with fried parsley.
Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, Halibut, 6d. to 8d. per lb.
Sufficient for 2 or 3 persons. Seasonable from May to January.
3900. — HUCKLEBERRY CAKE.
Ingredients. — i-J cups of huckleberries, 1 cup of sour milk, \ a cup of
sugar, J of a cup of butter, cups of flour, 1 egg, \ a teaspoonful of
carbonate of soda, \ a teaspoonful of salt.
Method. — Sieve the salt and hour together, and dissolve the soda
in a little warm water. Beat the butter and sugar until white and
creamy, stir in the yolk of egg, and add the fruit and hour as lightly as
possible. Whisk the white of egg to a stiff froth, stir it and the dissolved
soda lightly into the mixture, and pour into well-buttered shallow tins.
Bake in a moderately hot oven. If more convenient, new milk and 2
level teaspoonfuls of baking-powder may be used instead of sour milk
and soda.
Time. — About \ an hour. Average Cost, about is. Sufficient for 3
cakes. Seasonable, July to September,
TYPICAL AMERICAN AND CANADIAN DISHES 1623
3901. — HUCKLEBERRY PUDDING.
Ingredients. — 1 pint of huckleberries (known in England as whortle-
berries), 1 pint of milk, 2 eggs, 6 ozs. ot flour (about), \ a teaspoonful
of cream of tartar, \ of a teaspoonful of carbonate of soda, J of a tea-
spoonful of salt.
Method. — Mix the cream of tartar and salt with the flour, and dis-
solve the soda in the milk. Stir the eggs into the flour, add the
milk gradually, and beat well. Pick and mash the berries, stir
them into the batter, and add the dissolved soda. The batter
should be rather thick; a little more flour should therefore be dredged
in if the required consistency has not been obtained. Turn into a
well-buttered basin, and boil for 1 hour, or steam for \\ hours. Serve
with a sweet sauce.
Time. — To cook, from 1 to \\ hours. Average Cost, iod. Sufficient
for 1 pudding. Seasonable July to September.
3902. — J OMBALAYAH.
Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of Patna rice, 4 ozs. of cooked ham, 1 lettuce,
cayenne pepper, pepper and salt.
Method. — Pick and wash the rice, put it into a large stewpan of rapidly
boiling salted water, boil until tender, and dry well (see “ Rice for
Curry ”). Chop the ham finely, add it to the rice when cold, season
highly, and serve with lettuce leaves round the dish, and the heart
in the centre. Usually served as a cold breakfast dish.
Time. — About 1 hour. Average Cost, Sd. Sufficient for 2 or 3 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
3903. — JUMBLES.
Ingredients. — 14 ozs. of flour, 5 ozs. of sugar, 3 ozs. of butter, 1 egg,
the finely grated rind and juice of 1 lemon, 3 teaspoonfuls of milk,
1 teaspoonful of cream of tartar, \ a teaspoonful of carbonate of soda.
Method. — Beat the butter and sugar to a cream, add the egg, milk,
lemon juice and rind. Sieve the flour, cream of tartar and soda, and
mix with the other ingredients. Roll out rather thinly and cut into
rounds, or cut into long, narrow strips, which after being lightly pressed
into a round shape with the palm of the hand, should be wound round
and round to form small cakes. Bake in a quick oven.
Time. — To bake, about 10 minutes. Average Cost, gd. to iod.
Sufficient for about 1 £ lbs. of Jumbles. Seasonable at any time.
3904. — LEMON PIE.
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of puff paste, 7 ozs. of castor sugar, 3 eggs, 1 pint
of milk, 1 dessertspoonful of cornflour, the finety-grated rind of 1
lemon.
1624
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Method. — Cover a deep plate or dish with the paste, and bake in a
hot oven until three-quarters cooked. Mix the cornflour smoothly
with a little milk, boil the remainder, and pour it over the cornflour,
stirring briskly meanwhile. Replace in the stewpan, add 1 oz. of
sugar, the lemon-rind and yolks of eggs, and stir by the side of the
Are until the mixture thickens. Have this preparation ready to pour
into the pastry when about three-quarters baked, and set it in the
oven. Beat the whites of eggs to a very stiff froth, stir the remaining
sugar in lightly, and pile the meringue on the top of the pie. Bake in a
moderate oven until the top is crisp and lightly browned, and serve.
Time. — To bake, about 35 minutes. Average Cost, is. id. Sufficient
for 1 pie. Seasonable at any time.
3905. — MUSH.
Ingredients. — 1 cup of white corn meal, 2 quarts of boiling water,
1 tablespoonful of salt.
Method. — Mix the meal smoothly with a little cold water. Boil the
remainder of the water, and pour in the moistened meal gradually,
so as not to reduce the water below boiling point, stirring briskly mean-
while. Cover closely, and simmer very gently from 1 to i-l- hours,
stirring from time to time to equalize the cooking. Serve hot with
milk, butter or syrup.
Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, 2d. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
3906. — MUSH CROQUETTES.
Ingredients. — 1 quart of mush, 1 oz. of butter, 2 eggs, frying-fat.
Method. — Prepare the mush as directed in the preceding recipe,
and when it is sufficiently cooked add the butter and eggs. Stir by
the side of the fire for 3 or 4 minutes to cook the eggs, then turn the
preparation on to a plate. When cool enough to handle form into
cork-shaped croquettes, and put them aside until quite cold and firm.
When ready to serve, fry them in hot fat and drain well.
Time. — To fry the croquettes, about 15 minutes. Average Cost, about
6d. Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons. Seasonable at any time.
3907. — MUSH, FRIED.
Ingredients. — 1 quart of mush, 1 egg, bread or cracker crumbs, frying-
fat, salt and pepper.
Method. — Prepare the mush as directed (see No. 3905), season it well
with salt and pepper, and spread it on a dish to the depth of 1 inch.
When quite cold cut it into finger-shaped pieces 3 inches long and 1 inch
wide, and coat carefully with beaten egg and cracker crumbs or bread-
crumbs. Have ready a deep pan of hot fat, and fry the mush until
lightly browned. Drain well and serve hot.
TYPICAL AMERICAN AND CANADIAN DISHES 1625
Time. — To fry, about 15 minutes. Average Cost, 5c!. Sufficient for 6
or 7 persons. Seasonable at any time.
3908. — OYSTERS, BAKED.
Ingredients. — 1 solid pint of oysters, f of a cupful of good white stock,
\ a cupful of finely-chopped mushrooms, \ a teaspoonful of finely-
chopped onion, 3 tablespoonfuls of butter, 1 heaped tablespoonlul of
flour, 1 tablespoonful of lemon juice, 1 heaped teaspoonful of salt, \ of
a teaspoonful of white pepper, a few grains of cayenne, the yolks of
2 eggs, \ a pint of breadcrumbs.
Method. — Bring the oysters and stock just to boiling point, then
strain and preserve the liquor. Cook the onion and mushrooms lightly
in the butter, stir in the flour, add the liquor, and stir until boiling.
Add the yolks of eggs, seasoning, lemon juice, and lastly the oysters.
At once turn into a well-buttered dish, cover with breadcrumbs, sprinkle
with salt and pepper, and add a few bits of butter. Brown the surface
in a quick oven, and serve hot.
Time. — Altogether, about 40 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. to 2s. 3d.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable from September to April.
3909. — OYSTERS COOKED IN A CHAFING DISH.
Ingredients. — 1 solid pint of oysters, 2 tablespoonfuls of butter, a
small teaspoonful of salt, a few grains of cayenne, slices of buttered
toast.
Method. — Melt the butter in the chafing dish, put in the oysters, and
sprinkle in the seasoning. Stir repeatedly and cook gently until the
oysters begin to curl at the edges, then serve at once on the prepared
toast. Variety may be introduced by adding either 2 or 3 tablespoon-
fuls of thick cream just before serving, or 2 yolks of eggs beaten with
the juice of 1 lemon.
Time. — About 10 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. Sufficient for 3 or
4 persons. Seasonable from September to April.
3910. — OYSTERS, STEWED.
Ingredients. — 1 quart of liquid oysters, 1 quart of milk, 2 tablespoon-
fuls of butter, 1 heaped tablespoonful of flour, salt and pepper to taste.
Method. — Drain the liquid from the oysters, bring it and the milk
to boiling point. Knead the butter and flour together, divide into
small pieces, stir them into the milk and oyster liquor, and add salt
and pepper to taste. Boil gently for 3 minutes, put in the oysters,
bring again to the boil, draw the stewpan aside for 2 or 3 minutes, and
at once serve. If preferred, 3 tablespoonfuls of powdered cracker
crumbs may replace the flour.
Time. — About \ an hour. Average Cost, is. qd. to is. 6d. Sufficient
for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable from September to April.
Oysters. — In the United States oysters are more frequently sold by measure than number.
When sold by measure, a considerable amount of water is added to the liquid contained in the shells,
hence the name “ liquid oysters,"
1626
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
3911. — PEACHES, TO DRY.
Ingredients. — Peaches (not quite ripe), an equal weight of sugar.
Method. — Scald and remove the skins, divide and stone the fruit.
Place them on dishes, cover with sugar, let them remain for 24 hours,
then put the whole into a preserving pan and simmer gently until
clear. Turn into an earthenware vessel, after two days drain off, boil
up, and replace the syrup, let them remain two days longer, then drain
away the syrup, and dredge the peaches liberally with fine sugar.
Leave them in single layers in a cool place until dry, then pack them
in air-tight tins, with paper between each layer. Apricots, nectarines
or plums may be dried by this method.
Time. — 5 or 6 days. Seasonable from August to September.
3912. — PICKERIL, TO COOK.
See recipes Nos. 574-8 for cooking pike, which this fish resembles.
3913. — POP OVERS.
Ingredients. — 1 teacupful of white flour, 1 teacupful of milk, 1 egg,
salt to taste.
Method. — Make a batter of the ingredients, pour into a hot, greased,
pop-over tin, and bake in a quick oven. Pop-over tins are similar to
sheets of patty pans, but the hollows are deeper.
Time.— From 20 to 25 minutes. Average Cost, 3d. to qd. Sufficient for
5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
3914. — RICE GRIDDLE CAKES.
Ingredients. — 1 pint of plainly boiled rice, 2 cups of white flour,
2 pints of milk, 1 tablespoonful of oiled butter, 1 tablespoonful of sugar,
1 teaspoonful of salt, 1 teaspoonful of baking powder, 3 eggs.
Method. — Add one pint of milk to the rice, cover it and let stand all
night. In the morning stir in the flour, sugar, salt, and baking powder.
Beat the eggs, add the butter and remaining pint of milk to them, mix
with the flour, etc., and beat well. Fry on the griddle and serve hot.
Time. — To fry the cakes, about 10 minutes. Average Cost, is. id. to
is. qd. Sufficient for 8 or 9 persons. Seasonable at any time.
3915. — RYE BREAD.
Ingredients. — 2 quarts of rye flour, \ a cupful of liquid yeast (or 1 oz.
of compressed yeast), 1 tablespoonful of sugar, 1 tablespoonful of
butter oiled, 2 teaspoonfuls of salt, ij pints of warm water.
Method. — Mix the flour, sugar and salt together. To the water add
the yeast and butter, and stir the whole into the flour. Knead well,
cover closely, and let it remain in a warm place for about 8 hours.
When ready shape into 3 loaves, or 2 loaves and some small rolls, let
TYPICAL AMERICAN AND CANADIAN DISHES 1627
them remain near the stove until they rise to twice their original size,
and bake in a moderately hot oven. The loaves will require from 1 to
iC hours, and the rolls from 20 to 25 minutes.
Time. — About 10 hours. Average Co:t, is. Sufficient for 3 loaves.
Seasonable at any time.
3916. — RYE POP OVERS.
Ingredients. — ij cups of rye flour, 1 cupful of white flour, 1 table-
spoonful of sugar, 1 teaspoonful of salt, 2 eggs, 1 pint of milk.
Method. — Mix the dry ingredients together. Beat the eggs, add to
them the milk, and gradually mix with the flour. When sufficiently
moist to offer little resistance to the spoon beat well. Stir in the
remainder of the milk and egg, turn into well-buttered cups or pop-over
tins, and bake in a fairly hot oven.
Time. — To bake, from 20 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, about 9d.
Sufficient for 6 or 8 persons. Seasonable at any time.
3917. — SHAD, BAKED.
Ingredients. — Shad, 4 ozs. of breadcrumbs, 2 ozs. of finely-chopped
cooked lean ham, 1 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, 1 egg, J of a pint of port
wine, of a pint of water, milk, \ a teaspoonful of powdered mixed
herbs, 1 lemon, salt and pepper.
Method. — Wipe and dry the fish thoroughly, mix the breadcrumbs,
ham, herbs, and a little salt and pepper well together, moisten it with
\ the egg and a little milk, and stuff the fish. Place the fish in a well-
buttered baking-dish or tin, brush it over with egg, and spread the
remaining stuffing on the outside of the fish. Pour the wine and
water round, cover the fish with a buttered paper, and bake in a moder-
ate oven for about 1 hour. Shortly before the fish is done melt the
butter in a stewpan, stir in the flour, strain and add the liquor from the
fish, bring to the boil, and simmer for 5 minutes. Serve with the sauce
round, and garnish with sliced lemon.
Time. — ij- hours. Average Cost, is., in addition to the fish. Sufficient,
allow 4 lbs. of fish for 8 or 9 persons. Seasonable from April to June.
3918. — SLAW, COLD.
Ingredients. — 1 tender cabbage, 1 egg, \ an oz. of butter, J- of a pint
of vinegar, 1 tablespoonful of flour, 1 teaspoonful of celery seed, salt.
Method. — Shred the cabbage finely, rejecting the stalk and outer
leaves. Warm the vinegar and butter in an enamelled pan, put in the
cabbage, sprinkle over it the celery seed, flour and a good pinch of
salt, and cook gently for a few minutes. Beat the egg lightl-y, add
it to the contents of the pan, and stir and cook for 3 or 4 minutes.
Serve cold.
Time. — About 30 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. to 8d. Sufficient for 3
or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.
1628
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
3919. — SLAW, HOT.
Ingredients. — 1 tender cabbage, 1 egg, 1 oz. of butter, J of a pint of
sour cream, salt and pepper.
Method. — Remove the outer leaves and heart of the cabbage, and
shred the remainder as finely as possible. Melt the butter in a frying-
pan, add 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of boiling water, and put in the cabbage.
Season to taste with salt and pepper, cook gently until the cabbage is
tender, then add the egg previously well-beaten. Stir and cook slowly
for 3 or 4 minutes, then add the cream, make thoroughly hot, and serve.
Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, iod. to is. Sufficient for 3
or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.
3920. — SQUASH, BAKED.
Ingredients. — 1 pint of squash puree, 1 pint of bread or cracker crumbs,
5- of a pint of milk, 1 oz. of butter, pepper, salt.
Method. — Prepare the squash as directed in either of the following
recipes, cook until tender, and pass through a wire sieve. To the puree
thus obtained add the breadcrumbs, milk, butter warmed, and a
seasoning of salt and pepper. Mix all well together, turn the prepara-
tion into a greased fireproof dish, and bake in a moderate oven for
one hour. Serve hot.
Time. — About hours. Average Cost, 9d. to 1 id. Sufficient for 1 dish.
Seasonable at any time.
3921. — SQUASH, SUMMER.
Ingredients. — Young, fresh, tender squashes, butter, salt and pepper.
Method. — Wash and dry the squashes, do not pare them, but cut them
into quarters and remove the seeds. Put them into slightly salted
boiling water, and cook gently for about 20 minutes, or until tender.
Drain well, mash, replace in the stewpan with a lump of butter and a
seasoning of salt and pepper, re-heat, a.nd serve.
Time. — About \ an hour. Average Cost, 3d. each. Sufficient, allow 2
to 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable all the year.
Note. — The term squash is loosely used, especially in the United States,
for 2 or 3 kinds of gourd, including the pumpkin.
3922. — SQUASH, WINTER.
Ingredients. — Squash, butter, sugar, salt and pepper.
Method. — Split the squash and take out the seeds, put it into slightly
salted boiling water, and boil until tender. Scrape out the soft part
from the shell, mash it or pass it through a wire sieve, and put it into
a stewpan with a lump of butter, a good pinch of sugar, and a good
seasoning of salt and pepper. Make thoroughly hot, and serve.
Time. — About \ an hour. Average Cost, 3d. each. Sufficient, allow 2
to 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable all the year.
TYPICAL AMERICAN AND CANADIAN DISHES 1629
3923. — SUCCOTASH.
Ingredients. — Lima beans, to 1 pint of beans allow 1 quart of green
corn, butter, cam, sugar, salt and pepper.
Method. — Cut the corn from the cob and shell the beans, put them
into separate vessels of slightly salted boiling water, cook until tender,
and drain well. Mix them together, put them into a stewpan with a
lump of butter and a little cream, add a good pinch of sugar, and a
seasoning of pepper, and shake gently over the fire until thoroughly
hot. In winter, when the vegetables are dry and hard, soak both
corn and beans for at least 12 hours, then proceed as directed above.
Canned Lima beans and canned corn are also used.
Time. — About \ an hour. Average Cost, is. Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.
Seasonable from July to September.
3924. — SWEET PICKLE.
Ingredients. — 7 lbs. of peaches, pears or plums, 4 lbs. of loaf or preserv-
ing sugar, 1 pint of good vinegar, 1 blade of mace, \ an inch of cinna-
mon, 3 cloves.
Method. — Remove the skins, stones or cores of the fruit, and place it
in a preserving pan with alternate layers of sugar. Bring very slowly
to boiling point, then add the vinegar and spices, and boil for 5 minutes.
Take out the fruit with a skimmer, draining it well from the syrup,
and place it on dishes to cool. Boil the syrup gently until thick,
removing any scum as it rises, and pour it boiling over the fruit, which
should be previously packed closely in glass jars. Cork tightly and
store in a cool dry place. Examine frequently for the first month,
and if there are any signs of fermentation, put the jars, uncovered, in
a pan of water, and heat until they are scalding hot.
Time. — From 1 to 1^ hours. Average Cost, 4s. 6d. Sufficient for n lbs.
of pickle. Seasonable from June to September.
3925. — TERRAPIN BROWN STEW.
Ingredients. — 1 large terrapin, 1 heaped tablespoonful of flour, 1 table-
spoonful of butter, of a pint of water in which the terrapin was boiled,
of a pint of sherry, 1 teaspoonful of salt, \ of a teaspoonful of mixed
cayenne, ground mace, pepper and allspice, J of a lemon thinly sliced.
Method. — Cut the meat of the terrapin into small pieces, put it into
a stewpan with the water, salt, and mixed spices, and simmer gently
for 20 minutes. Meanwhile melt the butter, add the flour, cook gently
until the flour acquires a nut-brown colour, then pour on to it the
liquor in which the terrapin has simmered. Stir until boiling, put in
the terrapin in which the liquor was drained, add the wine and sliced
lemon. Make thoroughly hot and serve.
Time. — About 40 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. to 10s., according
to season and locality. Sufficient for 3 persons. Seasonable. — Obtain-
able all the year.
1630
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
3926. — TERRAPIN, TO BOIL.
Ingredients. — Terrapins and water.
Method. — The terrapins are either killed by plunging them into
boiling water like lobsters, or after cutting off the head the bod)? is
soaked in cold water for about \ an hour, and afterwards boiled from
^ an hour to 2 hours, according to size and age. When sufficiently
cooked, the legs can be broken with a slight pressure and the shell will
separate easily. The liver, gall, bladder and sand bag must be taken
away, also the head when not cut off before cooking, and the film
surrounding the eggs. What remains is edible, and the water in the
shell should be preserved.
The Terrapin is a fresh-water or tidal tortoise, of the family Emydidae, found from Rhode
Island to the Gulf of Mexico. They vary considerably in size, quality and price in different localities.
3927. — TERRAPIN WHITE STEW.
Ingredients. — 1 large terrapin, \ a pint of cream, J of a pint of sherry,
•§- of a pint of water, the yolks of 3 hard-boiled eggs, 1 \ tablespoonfuls
of butter, 1 teaspoonful of lemon juice, 1 teaspoonful of salt, J of a
teaspoonful of mixed cayenne, ground mace, pepper and allspice.
Method. — Cut the meat of the terrapin into small pieces, place in a
stewpan, add the water, butter, salt, mixed spices, and liquor drained
from the shell and simmer gently for 20 minutes. Pass the yolks of
eggs through a fine sieve, mix with them the cream, add the lemon
juice and sherry, and mix the whole with the contents of the stewpan.
Make thoroughly hot and serve.
Time. — To reheat the terrapin, about \ an hour. Average Cost, 2s. 6d.
to ios., according to season and locality. Sufficient for 3 persons.
Seasonable. — Obtainable all the year.
3928. — WAFFLES.
Ingredients. — 1 cupful of butter, 3 cupfuls of sugar, 3 eggs, \ of a
teaspoonful of saleratus, \ a nutmeg grated, \ a teaspoonful of salt,
1 teaspoonful of milk, flour.
Method. — Beat the butter, add to it the sugar, nutmeg, salt, saleratus,
previously dissolved in the milk, and the eggs. Beat well, adding
gradually as much flour as will make a thick batter. Heat the waffle-
iron, rub it over with butter, put in about 2 tablespoonfuls of the
batter and cook over a sharp fire.
Time. — To cook, from 8 to 10 minutes. Average Cost, is. 2d. to is. qd
Sufficient for 8 or 9 persons. Seasonable at any time.
3929. — WAFFLES. (Another Method.)
Ingredients. — \ a lb. of flour, \ a lb. of butter, 2 ozs. of sugar, 3 eggs,
1 pint of milk, \ a teaspoonful of salt.
TYPICAL AMERICAN AND CANADIAN DISHES 1631
Method. — Beat the butter and sugar to a cream, add the yolks* of
eggs, the salt, flour and milk, a little alternately, so as not to make
the mixture either too stiff or too moist. When well mixed stir in as
lightly as possible the stiffly-whisked whites of the egg«. Heat and
butter the waffle-iron each time before filling it.
Time. — To cook, about 6 or 7 minutes to bake each one. Average
Cost, is. 2d. to is. 5d. Sufficient for 9 or 10 persons. Seasonable at any
time.
3930. — WAFFLES MADE WITH YEAST.
Ingredients. — Flour, 1 pint of warm milk, 1 tablespoonful of fresh
yeast, 1 oz. of butter, \ a nutmeg grated, \ a teaspoonful of salt, 3 eggs.
Method. — Beat the eggs well, add the yeast, milk, butter melted,
nutmeg, salt, and as much flour as will make a light batter. Cover,
and let it remain in a warm place from 2 J to 3 hours. Cook as directed
in recipe No. 3438.
Time. — Altogether, about 4 hours. Average Cost, 9d. Sufficient for
7 or 8 persons. Seasonable at any time.
3931. — WASHINGTON PIE.
Ingredients. — 1 lb. of flour, f- of a lb. of castor sugar, \ a lb. of butter,
6 eggs, 1 gill of cream, the finely-grated rind of \ a lemon, a teaspoonful
of saleratus, fruit jelly or apricot marmalade.
Method. — Beat the butter and sugar together until white and creamy,
then add the lemon-rind and the eggs 2 at a time, beating well between
each addition. Mix the saleratus with the cream, stir it into the
mixture, and add the flour as lightly as possible. Turn into 4 round
shallow baking- tins, and bake in a moderate oven. Allow the cakes
to get cold, then split them and put a thick layer of fruit jelly, or apricot
marmalade, which has been stiffened by a little gelatine, between the
cakes. Cut into sections, and serve as a cold sweet.
Tims. — To bake, about 20 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient
for 4 cakes. Seasonable at any time.
TRUSSING POULTRY AND
GAME
CHAPTER LX
Trussing may be said to be one of the most important arts in con-
nexion with cookery. In London and other large towns where so
much, if not all, the poultry and game is sent out ready prepared for
cooking, many cooks do not make it a study ; but it ought, neverthe-
less, to be a part of the education of each one. Realizing the import-
ance of this branch of the cook’s art, and knowing how difficult it is
to learn from written instructions, we have prepared a series of illus-
trations to practically show the various stages in the preparation of
game and poultry for different modes of cooking. To obtain these
and to ensure their being reliable guides for the uninitiated, we secured
the services of a very experienced trusser. The latter, taking each
bird or animal in turn, demonstrated the manner of drawing, trussing,
etc., at each stage of which a photograph was taken, so that by
studying these the amateur will be able to acquire the proper method.
Skewers are not now used for trussing fowls and similar small
birds, which are always trussed with a needle and twine. This mode
not only facilitates the carving, but avoids serving a dish rendered
unsightly by skewers or skewer holes. Trussing needles, made
of iron, are obtainable from any ironmonger. They are very similar
to packing needles — strong and straight, about 9 inches long.
3932.— TO PLUCK A BIRD.
Hold the bird in the left hand, and commence to pull off the feathers
from under the wing. Having plucked one side, take the other wing
and proceed in the same manner until all the feathers are removed.
Poultry feeders usually pluck birds immediately after killing, because
the feathers are more easily withdrawn before the flesh stiffens Another
way is to plunge the bird into hot, but not boiling, water for about
one minute, and immediately pull out the feathers. But this is a
rather risky method, for if the bird be left too long in the water, the
skin becomes tender, apt to be easily torn, and the appearance is thus
spoiled.
1632
TRUSSING No. 1
TRUSSING POULTRY AND GAME
1633
3933-— TO SINGE POULTRY.
Hold the bird by the neck with the left hand, and with the right
hand singe off the down with a lighted paper, moving it quickly so as
not to scorch the bird ; those parts that will be hidden after the bird
is trussed must be most carefully gone over, but it is usual to again
singe after trussing. In large kitchens there is sometimes a gas-tube,
which is very convenient for singeing poultry, and avoids to some
extent any chance of burning or scorching during the operation ;
but a lighted paper carefully used is all that is actually necessary.
It is useless to expect singeing to take away the feathers that have
been left in through careless plucking ; if any should appear, they
must be pulled out, not singed off, otherwise they will impart a dis-
agreeable odour of burnt feathers to the bird.
3934. — TO BONE POULTRY AND GAME.
Birds are invariably plucked and singed before boning, but not
drawn. The crop, however, should be removed, the wings and legs
cut off at the first joint, and the tendons of the legs carefully drawn
at the same time. To bone the bird, use a small sharp knife, and first
remove the merry-thought at the neck — a very simple matter. This
done, cut the skin down the centre of the back and raise the flesh
carefully on either side, sever the wing joints, and continue to detach
the flesh, keeping the blade of the knife close to the bone. When the
legs are reached, dislocate the joints, cut the connecting tendons, but
lea ve both wings and legs intact until the breast and back bones have
been removed, together with the viscera. Turn the body completely
inside out ; take the thigh bones of one of the legs in the left hand and
strip the flesh downwards. Repeat this until all the small bones are
removed. The bird may then be turned right side out again, when it
will be found completely boned and should be quite whole.
Both large and small birds may be boned in this way. They are
then stuffed, re-shaped and trussed, or rolled into galantines.
3935. — TO DRAW POULTRY. (Trussing Illustration
Nos. 1 and 2.)
In order to draw a bird properly, it is well to know where to find
the different parts of the inside. Trussing Illustration No. 1, Fig. 1,
shows a fowl cut in half. The different organs can be seen in the
positions they occupy. Fig. 2 shows the inside of the bird when drawn.
Lay the bird back downwards upon the table, and cut off the ends
of the pinions. Then turn the bird breast downwards, and cut a long
slit in the back of the neck, in the manner shown in Trussing Illustra-
tion No. 2, Fig. 1 ; pass the knife under the skin, cut off the neck at
its junction with the body, taking care not to cut through the under
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1634
skin of the neck in this motion. Then cut through the skin of the
back of the neck at the place where the first incision was made and
through the underneath skin about three inches from the breast,
leaving the two flaps of neck skin to fold over the jagged opening (see
Figs. 2 and 3), and draw out the neck. Then take out the crop,
and well loosen the entrails by placing the forefinger inside the
body, and working it round from left to right (see Pig. 4). Put the
fowl on the table tail upwards and make a deep cut straight across
the body between the tail and the vent. The vent can then be easily
cut out, and the opening will be found sufficiently large to enable the
fingers to be put inside the bird to take hold of the gizzard, etc. (see
Fig. 5 ), and if the loosening at the other end has been properly per-
formed, the whole of the inside of the fowl can be easily drawn away
in one mass. Care should be taken not to draw away the fat on giz-
zard. This can be felt with the fingers and may be easily left inside
the bird.
Be very careful not to break the gall-bladder, for this accident may
ruin the bird by imparting a very bitter taste to the flesh. Now
wipe out the inside with a clean cloth, but do not wash the bird,
unless any part of the inside has been broken in drawing ; 'dip the legs
of the bird in boiling water, scrape them, and cut off the claws.
3936._ TO TRUSS A FOWL FOR ROASTING.
(Trussing Illustration No. 3.) , 9
Place the fowl upon the table as shown in illustration, and pass the
needle and string through the centre of the fowl, just above the thigh-
bone, exactly in the centre of the two joints (see Fig. 1 ), leaving the
end of the string protruding from the place where the needle entered
the bird. Turn the fowl over on to its breast, and carrying the twine
on, pass it in a slanting direction between the two centre bones of the
wing, catching the underneath part of the pinion (see Fig. 2), and then
over the bird through the pinion and then the wing of the other side,
and the string will come out near the point where it first entered the
fowl ; then tie the two ends together, but not too tightly or the bird
will not lie flat on the dish (Fig. 3). Next take the fowl in the left
hand, breast downwards, and pass the needle and twine through the
back, close to the end of the thigh-bones (Fig. 4) ; put the legs into
position shown, turn the fowl on its back, and carry the string over
the leg and then through the breast, catching up a small portion of
the bone as the needle passes through. Take the string on over the
other leg and tie the ends together, and the bird will be ready for
roasting (see Fig. 5).
Now again singe the bird, going over it very carefully, so that no
feathers remain ; then, after cleaning and washing the gizzard and
liver, put one in each of the pinions.
TRUSSING No. 2: TO DRAW A FOWL.
See directions on page 1633.
3 G
79
TRUSSING POULTRY AND GAME 1635
3937-— TO TRUSS A FOWL FOR BOILING. (Truss-
ing Illustration No. 4.)
It is generally found more difficult for a beginner to truss a fowl for
boiling than for roasting, for in loosening the skin and drawing it over
the bone it is very easy to tear it.
Loosen the skin of the leg by placing the two first fingers of the
hand inside the body, and working round the leg as shown (Fig. 1).
Make a cut in the drumstick of the fowl, about half an inch from the
hock (Fig. 2), to prevent the bone from breaking under the next opera-
tion. Turn the shank inward on to the back of the fowl (Fig. 3), and
draw the skin of the leg over the hock, tucking the joint into the body
(as in Fig. 4). Next cut off the shank about half an inch above the
foot, i.e., cutting off all the leg and foot that shows in Fig. 4. Sew
with needle and string as for roasted fowl (see Fig. 5).
3938. — TO TRUSS A TURKEY. (Trussing Illustra-
tion No. 5.)
Turkeys are plucked and singed in exactly the same manner as
fowls, but before trussing draw the sinews. To do this, break the leg
bones close to the feet, run them on a hook placed in the wall (above
you, so that weight as well as strength can be brought to bear), and
draw out the sinews as shown in Fig. 1. This is sometimes rather a
hard task, but it must be done or the legs will be uneatable. Next
cut off the neck close to the back as directed in Recipe No. 3935, leav-
ing enough skin to turn over it, and loosen the liver and the rest of
the inside at the throat end. Cut off the vent, take out the gut and
draw the bird with a hook sold for this purpose. Take great care not
to break the gut joining the gizzard, for fear of grit, or the gall
bladder, which, if broken, would make the flesh bitter.
Next dry the inside thoroughly. Cut the breastbone through at
each side close to the back, beat it flat with a wooden rolling-pin, then
place the pinions as shown in illustration, and skewer (Figs. 2 and 3).
Press the legs close to the body and skewer at first and second joints,
and the turkey will now be ready for stuffing.
Having filled the bird with the forcemeat (the fuller the better and
neater it will look), skewer over the flap of skin, also that at the neck.
Turn the bird back uppermost and put a string across and across
as shown, except in the case of a very small turkey, when it will not
be required.
As with a fowl, a boned turkey has sometimes the legs put inside,
so that less stuffing is needed ; and the aim is not to preserve its form
bui to make it present a broad smooth surface that is easy to carve.
1636 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
3939.— TO TRUSS A GOOSE OR DUCK. (Trussing
Illustration No. 5, Fig. 5.)
Geese and ducks are prepared, drawn and trussed in the same manner
as fowls and turkeys, except that the wings or pinions are cut off at
the first joint. The feet of a goose are nearly always removed, but
those of a duck are just as frequently left on, the tips of the toes alone
being cut off.
Having well plucked and singed the bird, cut off the feet at the
joint, the pinions at the first joint, and the neck close to the back, as
directed for fowls, leaving enough skin to turn over the back. Next
loosen the inside at the throat end. Cut the bird open between the
vent and the rump and draw ; then wipe out the bird and very carefully
flatten the breastbone with a rolling-pin, taking care not to break the
bone into splinters. Put a skewer through the under part of one wing
and b 'ing it through the other, as shown in Fig. 5. Skewer the legs
by passing the skewer through the first joint and carryung it through
the body so as to secure the other. Always remove the merry-thought
from a duck or a goose.
3940. — TO TRUSS GROUSE.
When plucking leave the breast feather for removal afterwards, in
order to prevent the skin being broken in trussing.
First, cut off the head, leaving enough skin to skewer back, loosen
the inside at neck and squeeze out and wipe the inside of the bird.
Secondly, bring the legs close to the breast, between it and the side
bones, and pass a needle through the pinions and the thick part of the
thighs, tie round, then take off the breast feathers with the aid of a
knife, thus avoiding the breaking of the skin.
Partridges and pheasants are trussed in the same manner, but the
latter are large enough for the passage of the hand and can be drawn
in the same way as a fowl.
3941. — TO TRUSS A PIGEON. (Trussing Illustration
No. 3, Figs. 6 and 7.)
First pluck and draw the bird, wash it very thoroughly and wipe
perfectly dry. Then cut off the neck and head, and the toes at the
first joint. Truss for roasting by crossing the legs and running a
trussing needle and twine through both pinions and legs (Fig. 7).
For stewing, twist the legs up on each side and fasten with a truss-
ing needle and twine (Fig. 6).
Pigeons are better if drawn directly they are killed. They are birds
that do not improve by keeping.
TRUSSING No. 3: FOWL FOR ROASTING.
See directions on page 1634.
TRUSSING POULTRY AND GAME
1637
3942.— TO TRUSS A SNIPE.
First pluck the birds, and wipe them outside with a damp cloth
but do not draw them. Twist the legs, thrust them close to the bodv •
skm the neck and head, and bring the beak round under the wing’
J he birds should then be placed on toast.
3943 — TO TRUSS PLOVERS, QUAILS, AND
WOODCOCKS.
These are dressed in the same way as snipe.
3944.— TO SKIN AND TRUSS A HARE. (Trussing
Illustration No. 5* Figs. 6 and 7.)
Cut off the fore and hind legs at the first joint, make a long slit in
skm underneath the body, detach it from the flesh, and draw it
o.V.er the hind leSs’ leaving the tail on. The next step is to draw the
s m over the back and slip out the fore legs, easing it with a knife if
necessary, over the neck and head, and being very careful not to int re
and fCh T left °n‘ In skmnmg this is the most delicate part
and one that is always found difficult by the amateur, but the appear’
ance of a roast hare is spoilt if the ears are torn or otherwise injured.
ng the haie on a hook is a most convenient way of accom-
plishing the skinning, as both hands are thus free and the skin can be
ani1mafbrHedCarefUllyirem(?Ved &nd With far greater ease than if the
animal be laid upon a board.
Slit the body in the same direction as the skin was cut, remove all the
™SPL^\eidneyS’ r TC the inSlde -th a clean damp
* cut the smews beneath the hind legs and press them to
vvt' f 'antl bring the backwards to L hind ones'
be passed bodjTnd %
Press back the head (Fig. 6), pass a skewer through the top of the
3945-— TO^TflUSS A RABBIT FOR ROASTING OR
ouf ZTeT" ““ Wash the mbbit thoronehl>'. wipe it dry, and take
I ben cut off the fore joints of the shoulders and lees and brinaine
tern close to the body, fasten with needle and twine, ikewe’r firmiy>>
Thil dly raise the head and skewer it back between the shouMers
Put stuffing (if liked) when for roasting, and sew up Sl,0ulde,s'
HERBS, CONDIMENTS,
AND AUXILIARIES
CHAPTER LXI
The first pages of the present chapter deal principally with the various
seasonings and flavourings which form an important part of every
culinary preparation, followed by a brief description of the elementary
processes which enter largely into every-day cookery. The success
of many dishes depends more on the condiments and auxiliaries used
in compounding them than on the material forming the base; hence the
necessity of some slight knowledge of the qualities of the respective
seasonings and flavourings, and the exercise of a certain amount of care
in preparing the auxiliaries.
Herbs
Aromatic Herbs and Plants. — A number of these are used in a dry
state, but when freshly gathered a better flavour is added to the pre-
paration of which they form a part.
Bay-leaves (Fr. — Feuilles de laurier). — The leaves of the common
laurel, Primus laurocerasus , are employed for culinary purposes to
give a kernel-like flavour to sauces, stocks, mirepoix, custards, pud-
dings, etc. They may be dried and their flavour preserved for a great
length of time if kept in an air-tight tin.
Basil (Fr. — Basilic). — The flavour of this herb greatly resembles that
of the bay-leaf. It finds great favour with French cooks, but it is not
much used in England except as a flavouring for fish soups and fish
sauces. It is in perfection about August, when it should be dried
and preserved in air-tight bottles or tins for winter use. Like many
other herbs, it may be obtained ready-prepared.
Bouquet Garni. — The little bunch or fagot of herbs to which this name
is applied usually consists of two or three sprigs of parsley, a sprig of
thyme, and a bayleaf, with the addition of marjoram, celery leaves,
basil, or other herbs may, if liked, be added.
TRUSSING No. 4: FOWL FOR BOILING.
See directions on page 1635.
3g
HERBS, CONDIMENTS, AND AUXILIARIES 1639
Burnet. — The use of this perennial plant has gone somewhat out of
fashion. In former times it constituted one of the principal ingredients
of claret cup, its leaves, when slightly bruised, smelling like cucumber.
Its modern use is confined to salads.
Capsicums. — Several varieties of this plant are cultivated in the East
and West Indies and in America. The red chilli, which invariably
forms part of mixed pickles, is the pod of the capsicum, and ch Hi
vinegar is made by infusing capsicum pods in vinegar until some of their
pungency and strength is extracted. From the same source comes
cayenne pepper, obtained from the pods and the seeds, which are well
dried and pounded until they are reduced to a fine powder. Capsi-
cums owe their stimulating power to an active principle called capscin,
and when used in moderation produce no injurious effects.
Carrots and Turnips. — The small pale-coloured carrot that grows wild
in England is not the original of the cultivated variety, which is certainly
one of the most valuable and useful vegetables we possess. The garden
carrot in general use is a genus of the umbelliferae, and was intro-
duced into England in a cultivated state during the reign of Elizabeth.
Turnips also grow wild in England, but naturalists have asserted that
the wild turnip is not the progenitor of the valuable culinary esculent
of the present day. In this cultivated state they are generally sup-
posed to have been originally introduced from Hanover, in the reign
of George I. The manifold purposes for which both these vegetables
are employed are too well known to need comment. In adding them
to a soup, sauce or ragout, the rule of using less turnip than carrot
should always be observed. Both should be used sparingly, other-
wise their flavour overpowers that of the materials with which they
are cooked.
Chervil ( Fr. — Cevfeuil ). — This umbelliferous plant is used as a flavouring
agent in entrees, sauces, and soups, its peculiar flavour being greatly
appreciated by many. But it is still more usefully employed for
decorative purposes, its sAall, pretty, delicately tinted leaves being
invaluable as a means of introducing a green garniture to chaud-
froids, savouries, salads, etc. In Scotland and in the north of
England this plant is commonly called Myrrh.
Chives (Fr. — Cibouletle). — The root of this plant consists of small, flat,
clustering bulbs. Like other small varieties of the onion tribe, it has
a very powerful flavour, and consequently must be sparingly used.
Garlic (Fr. — Ail). — The genus Allium includes the chive, garlic, leek,
onion and shallot. Of these, garlic possesses the most powerful aroma
and flavour. In Spain, Italy, and other parts of the Continent,
garlic is highly esteemed, but unless very sparingly used the flavour
is disagreeable to the English palate. The root consists of several
bulbs called cloves, and sufficient flavour may be added to any dish
or salad by simply rubbing the vessel containing it with the end of
half of one of these cloves.
1640
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Leeks (Fr. — Poireaux). — This plant, the Allium porrum, is largely
employed as a flavouring agent in culinary preparations. In Wales
it is highly esteemed, but, notwithstanding its mild delicate flavour,
it is little used as a vegetable in England.
Marjoram (Fr. — Marjolaine). — There are four kinds of marjoram,
but the sweet or knotted variety, known to naturalists as Origanum
Marjorama, is the only one used for culinary purposes. This well-
known herb is a native of Portugal, and was introduced into this
country in the sixteenth century. Sparingly used, it imparts an
agreeable flavour to many sauces, stews, and other preparations, of
which onion forms a part. The herb should be gathered in July,
well-dried, finely-powdered, and bottled for winter use.
Mint (Fr .—Menthe). — This aromatic plant belongs to the natural order
Labiatae. The Mentha vividis, the variety cultivated in our kitchen gar-
dens, has a more agreeable flavour than its congeners, and it is the one
generally used in cookery. Mint possesses the property of correcting fla-
tulence, hence the custom of using it in pea-soup and with new potatoes.
Onions (Fr. — Oignons). — This bulb, the A Hum cepa, which is the most
common, but, at the same time, the most popular of this class of vege-
table, differs widely as regards size and flavour. The smaller varieties are
the more powerful, while the larger species, like the Spanish, are mild
and sweet. A mild flavour of onion is generally liked, but the objection
to its use is the odour left on the palate. This may be obviated in some
measure by parboiling them before adding them to any preparation,
the objectionable matter being more effectually removed by changing
the water two or three times during the process.
Parsley (Fr. — Persil). — This herb is said to be a native of Sardinia,
but is largely cultivated in every country in Europe. Parsley pos-
sesses the peculiar property of absorbing the strength of other
flavouring ingredients ; hence the necessity of using it with discre-
tion. In consequence of being generally regarded as exceedingly
simple and harmless in character, this herb is frequently employed in
altogether disproportionate quantities, thereby overpowering the
flavour of other substances with which it is mixed. Parsley intended
for winter use should be gathered before it loses its tender shade of
green. It is first blanched in boiling water for 1 minute, then put
into a hot oven, and when dry enough to be easily reduced to a fine
powder it is rubbed through a hair sieve, and put into well-corked
bottles or air-tight tins.
Sage (Fr. — Sauge). — This well-known plant belongs to the genus
Salvia, a branch of the mint family. It was originally a native of the
South of Europe, but its cultivation in England dates from an early
age. There are several varieties, known as green, red, small leaved,
and the broaddeaved balsamic. Both green and red sage are em-
ployed for cookery purposes, especially in stuffings, of which onions
form the principal part, but other kinds are used for medicinal purposes.
TRUSSING No. 5 : POULTRY, GOOSE, AND HARE,
See directions on pages 1635, 1636, and 1637,
82
HERBS, CONDIMENTS, AND AUXILIARIES 1641
Shallot or Eschalot (Fr. — Echalote). — This bulbous root is a native of
Palestine, and was introduced into England by the Crusaders. It
derives its botanical name, Allium Ascalonicum, from Ascalon, in
the vicinity of which place it was found growing wild. The shallot
has a bulbous root, made up of a number of smaller bulbs, called
cloves. It is more pungent than garlic, but its flavour is more
delicate, and more palatable to those unaccustomed to the use of
garlic. The shallot is more pronounced in taste than the onion, but
does not leave so strong an odour on the palate, and for this reason
it is often employed instead of the onion for flavouring culinary
preparations, sauces and vinegars, and more especially for salads
eaten in a raw state. Shallots are in best condition in July, August,
and September, but may be kept for a great length of time if hung in
nets in a cool dry place.
Tarragon (Fr. — A'siragon). — This perennial plant, known to botanists
as Artemisia Dracunculus, is believed to be a native of Siberia. Its
leaves possess a highly aromatic flavour, and are largely used for de-
corative purposes, the character and form of the leaf being specially
suited to the small devices employed for garnishing chaudfroids,
savouries, salads, etc. From it also is made the vinegar known as
tarragon vinegar, which is employed by the French in making their
mustard, and by the English in mixing mayonnaise and other salad
dressings.
Thyme and Lemon Thyme (Fr. — Thym). — Both these species belong
to the natural order Labiatae , or mint tribe. The leaves of the Thymus
vulgaris possess a highly aromatic flavour, and should be sparingly
used. Lemon thyme, or Thymus citriodorus, is a trailing evergreen of
much smaller growth than the ordinary common kind, and is remark-
able for its smell, which closely resembles that of the rind of a lemon,
hence its distinctive name.
Condiments
Condiments serve a useful purpose in dietetics, not only in enhancing
the flavour of substances to which they are added, but also in inducing
greater activity in digestive processes. A little additional seasoning of
salt and pepper may be necessary, just before serving, to render a dish
more palatable, but all condiments used for seasoning or flavouring
should be added either before the dish is cooked or during the process
of cooking, otherwise their full flavour cannot be imparted to the
materials with which they are mixed.
Allspice (Fr. — Piment ). — This is the popular name given to pimento,
or Jamaica pepper, known to botanists as Eugenia pimenta, and belong-
ing to the natural order Myrtaceae , or myrtle. It is the berry of a fine
tree in the West Indies and South America, which attains a height of
1642
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
irom 1 5 to 20 feet. The berries are not allowed to ripen, but are gathered
green, dried in the sun, and then become black. The berries combine
the flavour of cloves, cinnamon, and nutmeg, hence the name.
Angelica (Fr .^Angelique). — Although the seeds of this plant are
largely used in the preparation of certain liqueurs, it is chiefly in
its candied form that this aromatic herb or plant is known to us. In
the northern parts of Europe the leaf stalks are peeled and eaten
raw as a great delicacy. The root, as well as the leaves and seeds,
have been employed for medicinal purposes. From its supposed
properties as a specific against poison and witchcraft, it was formerly
called the “ angelic ” plant.
Cayenne (Fv.—Poivre de Guinee). — This is the acrid and stimulating
spice with which we are acquainted. It is a powder prepared from
several varieties of the Capsicum, annual East India plants, of which
there are three so far naturalized in this country as to be able to grow
in the open air ; these are extremely pungent to the taste, and in the
green state are used by us as a pickle. When ripe, they are ground
into cayenne pepper, and sold as a condiment. The best cayenne,
however, is made in the West Indies from the Bird pepper, so named
because of the partiality of hens and turkeys to the berry. It is im-
ported ready for use. Of the Capsicum species of plants there are five ;
but the principal are : (1) Capsicum annum, the common long-podded
Capsicum, cultivated in our gardens, of which there are two varieties,
one with red, and another with yellow fruit. (2) Capsicum baccafum,
or Bird pepper, which rises with a shrubby stalk 4 or 5 feet high, with
its berries growing at the division of the branches : this is small, oval-
shaped, and of a bright-red colour, from which, as already stated, the
best cayenne is made. (3) Capsicum grossum, the bell-pepper ; the
fruit of this is red, and is the only kind fit for pickling.
Cinnamon (Fr. — cannelle). — The cinnamon tree (Lauras Cinna-
momum ) is a valuable and beautiful species of the laurel family, and
grows to the height of 20 or 30 feet. It is believed to have been origin-
ally grown in Ceylon, where it is still largely cultivated. It also
grows in Madras, Bombay, and Java. The trunk of the tree is short
and straight, with wide-spreading branches, and it has a smooth, ash-
like bark. The inner bark forms the cinnamon of commerce. When
the branches are 3 years old they are stripped of their outer bark, the
inner bark is dried, causing it to shrivel up and assume the quilt-like
form in which it is imported. The best cinnamon is rather light in
colour, and not much thicker than paper. Besides being used ex-
tensively for culinary purposes, cinnamon is much employed as a
powerful stimulant.
Cloves (Fr. — Girofle). — This very agreeable spice is the dried flower-
buds of the Caryophyllus aromaiicus, a handsome branching tree, a
native of the Malacca Islands. They take their name from the Latin
word clavus, or the French clou, both meaning a nail, to which the
HERBS, CONDIMENTS, AND AUXILIARIES 1643
clove has a considerable resemblance. Cloves were bnt little known
to the ancients, and Pliny appears to be the only writer who mentions
them : and he says, vaguely enough, that some were brought to Rome,
very similar to grains of pepper, but somewhat longer : that they were
only found in India, in a wood consecrated to the gods ; and that they
served in the manufacture of perfumes. The Dutch, as in the case of
the nutmeg, endeavoured, when they gained possession of the Spice
Islands, to secure a monopoly of cloves, and, so that the cultivation
might be confined to Ambroyna, their chief island, bribed the sur-
rounding chiefs to cut down all trees elsewhere. The Ambroyna. or
royal clove, is said to be the best, and is rare : but other kinds, nearly
equally good, are produced in other parts of the world, and they come
to Europe from Mauritius, Bourbon, Cayenne, and Martinique, as also
from St. Kitt’s, St. Vincent’s, and Trinidad. The clove contains about
20 per cent, of volatile aromatic oil, to which is attributed its peculiar
pungent flavour, its other parts being composed of woody fibre, water,
gum, and resin.
Coriander (Fr. — Coriandre). — This plant, the Coriandrum sativum,
is of Eastern origin. The seeds of the plant, when fresh, have a dis-
agreeable smell : in their dry state they are used by the confectioner,
distiller, and in the manufacture of curry-powder, but very rarely in
ordinary cookery.
Curry (Fr. — Poudre de Kari). — Curry is composed of various condiments
and spices, which include cardamon-seed, coriander-seed, cumin-seed,
dried cassia leaves, dried chillies, cayenne, ginger, mustard-seed, tur-
meric, cinnamon, mace, and cloves. It owes its peculiar odour and bright
colour to the presence of turmeric, a variety of ginger largely cultivated
in the East Indies. Thorough cooking is absolutely necessary to
develop the full flavour of the various ingredients comprising curry-
powder, the directions given in the respective recipes for preparing the
curry sauce before adding to it other substances should therefore be
strictly followed.
Ginger (Fr. — Gingembre). — Ginger is the tuber of a perennial plant
called Zingiber officinale, growing chiefly in the West Indies. There
are two varieties ; the white and the black. The former is considered
the better, and is prepared by washing and scalding the tubers, and
then scraping them and drying them in the sun : in the black ginger
the scraping process is omitted, it being merely scalded before being
dried. Ginger is much used in culinary operations : grated green
ginger is deemed by epicures to be an important item in a dish of curry.
Lemon (Fr. — Citron). — This fruit is a native of Asia, and was first
cultivated in England in the beginning of the seventeenth century.
Lemons are imported in large quantities from the Azores, St. Helena,
Spain, and Portugal, those from Spain being considered the best. The
juice of the lemon is invaluable in many culinary operations, being
employed in some as a bleaching agent, in others to expedite disinte-
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
1644
gration and thereby soften the fibres of the substance, while a third
purpose it fulfils is that of adding piquancy to sauces and other pre-
parations. Citric acid, extracted from lemons, is largely employed as
an anti-scorbutic. The rind of the lemon contains an essential oil of
very high flavour and fragrance. This oil is contained in tiny cells
on the surface of the lemon, immediately beneath which lies a white
pith with a bitter, disagreeable flavour. As a rule the rind is grated,
but the best way to obtain the largest amount of the essence from the
lemon without encroaching on the white pith, is to pare off the rind
in small, almost transparent strips with a sharp knife. The peel,
preserved by boiling in syrup, forms the well-known candied peel.
Mace (Fr. — Masse). — Mace is the outer shell or husk of the nut-
meg, and naturally resembles it in flavour. Its general qualities are
the same as those of the nutmeg, producing an agreeable aromatic
odour. When good its hue is orange-yellow.
Mustard (Fr. — Moutarde). — There are two varieties of mustard seeds.
Sinapis nigra (the common) and Sinapis alba (the white). The mustard
of commerce is composed of the seeds of both varieties, ground and
mixed together. Mustard taken in small quantities is said to stimulate
the appetite and aid digestion. The pungency of mustard is not fully
developed until moistened with water ; its flavour is best when freshly
prepared. A pinch of salt added to mixed mustard will prevent it
from becoming dry, and in some slight degree preserve its aroma.
Nutmegs (Fr. — Noix de Muscat). — Nutmegs are the seeds of the
nutmeg tree, known to botanists as the Myristica moschaia. This tree
is a native of the 'Molucca Islands, but is now cultivated in Java,
Cayenne, Sumatra, and some of the West Indian Islands. There are
two kinds of nutmegs — one wild, and long and oval-shaped, the other
cultivated and nearly round : the husk which surrounds the shell of
the nutmeg when growing is known as mace. This familiar spice is
largely used as a flavouring : but it should be added sparingly to
farinaceous preparations, for its strong aromatic flavour is greatly dis-
liked by many. Forcemeats and similar preparations containing pars-
ley and other herbs may have a comparatively large amount of nutmeg
mixed with them, and yet the flavour of the spice will be hardly
perceptible. It is generally thought that the strength of the nutmeg
is spent in developing the flavour of the herbs with which it is mixed.
Pepper (Fr. — Poivre). — This valuable condiment is produced from
the seed of the berries of the plant known by the name of Piper nigrum.
The plant, a species of climbing vine, is a native of the East Indies,
and is extensively cultivated in Malabar and the eastern islands of
Borneo, Sumatra, and Java, and also in Ca3mnne. The berries hang on
the branches of the plant in bunches : in shape they resemble the
grape, but each berry grows distinct on a little stalk like currants.
The same plant produces both white and black pepper. The berries,
when ripe, are bright red in colour, and each contains a single seed of
HERBS, CONDIMENTS, AND AUXILIARIES 1645
globular form and brownish hue, which changes to nearly black when
dried. This is the black pepper of commerce, white peppercorns being
produced by steeping the dark berries in lime and water, and after-
wards subjecting them to certain rubbing processes, by which their
dark husks are removed.
Pepper, Krona. — This well-known condiment is made from the
Hungarian paprika , capsicum pod, etc. It is bright-red in colour,
with an agreeable flavour, and with less pungency than cayenne, and
consequently may be regarded as an exceedingly useful combination
of flavouring and seasoning ingredients.
Pepper, Mignonette. — This is ordinary white pepper with the husks
removed and crushed finely, but not ground.
Salt (Fr. — Sel ). — The importance of salt as a condiment, as an
antiseptic, and an article of food cannot be overestimated. In cookery
ils uses are apparently contradictory, for it aids in softening certain
substances when applied through the medium of cold water, and
greatly assists in hardening the same when the medium is boiling
water. It increases the specific gravity of water, and consequently
raises the boiling point, a matter of considerable importance in boiling
rice, when it is necessary to keep the water in a state of ebullition to
prevent the rice coalescing. Every other condiment, no matter how
desirable, may be dispensed with, or one condiment may be substituted
for another, but salt is absolutely indispensable, for it makes palatable
food that would otherwise be uneatable. Salt, like all other seasonings,
must be used with judgment : the expression “ salt to taste,” even
when applied to water in which vegetables are cooked, means that the
amateur should taste the water until experience teaches her how much
salt to add.
Sugar (Fr. — Sucre). — Sugar, like salt, is both an antiseptic and a
valuable food, as well as a useful flavouring ingredient. What salt is
to meat and vegetables, sugar is to all fruits and many farinaceous
foods, rendering palatable what would otherwise be insipid or uneat-
able in consequence of extreme sourness. In very small quantities,
sugar is frequently used to soften or heighten the flavour of ragouts
and sauces.
Turmeric (Fr. — Merite). — -Turmeric is the tuber of the Cucuma
longa, a branch of the ginger family, extensively cultivated in the East
Indies. The tubers are dried and then ground to a fine powder. This
condiment enters largely into the composition of curry-powder, and
gives to it the peculiar odour and the bright yellow colour which that
compound possesses.
Vanilla (Fr. — Vanille). — Vanilla is the fruit of a tropical orchid
plant, the best varieties of which are now grown in Mexico. The dried,
aromatic sheath-like pod has a delicious fragrance. Its use -was first
discovered by the Spaniards, but it is now extensively employed as a
flavouring for cakes, custards, puddings, chocolate, liqueurs, etc. The
1646
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
most familiar form is the essence of vanilla, extracted from the pod,
but its use cannot be recommended, for being volatile, the greater part
of its flavour escapes during the process of cooking. It is much better
to use vanilla pods or vanilla sugar.
Vinegar (Fr. — Vinaigre ). — The best vinegar comes from France, and
is made from white wine. Ordinary vinegar is made chiefly from malt,
cheap wine and cider, by a long process whereby acetic acid is produced.
Any of these vinegars may be used to form the base of chilli, tarragon,
or eschalot vinegar, the ingredients from which they take their name
being steeped in the vinegar until the desired flavour is imparted. An
inferior variety of vinegar is distilled from wood, but it is somewhat
lacking in flavour, and consequently considered suitable only for
pickling purposes. Vinegar serves many useful purposes in cookery :
it enters largely into the composition of many sauces, and greatly
assists in softening the fibres of tough meat. Vinegar is also an anti-
septic : and taken in small quantities it promotes digestion, by stimu-
lating the organs engaged in the process into greater activity ; but if
taken in excess, it is highly injurious.
Auxiliaries
Baking Powder. — Mix well together 4 ozs. of ground rice, 4 ozs. of
carbonate of soda, and 3 ozs. of tartaric acid, and pass them through
a fine sieve. Keep in an air-tight tin.
Blanching. — Some things are blanched to improve their colour, others
to remove some strong, undesirable flavour. In all cases the process is
the same, the article being immersed in a saucepan of cold water, which
is brought to boiling point, and then strained off.
Bouquet Garni. — This name is given to the small bunch of herbs so
much used for flavouring sauces, soups, and stews. In its most simple
form it consists of a sprig of thyme, marjoram, and a bayleaf wrapped
together in parsley, and tied into a little roll. To these may be added
a small quantity of one or more of the following : chervil, chives, celery
leaf, basil, tarragon.
Breadcrumbs (White). — Remove the crust from some stale bread and
rub it through a fine wire sieve, using the palm of the hand for the
purpose. Any crumbs left over from egging and bread-crumbing
should be dried in the oven, passed through a sieve, and kept in an
air-tight tin or jar for future use.
Breadcrumbs (Brown). — Put the crusts removed from the loaf in
making white breadcrumbs, or any pieces of stale bread there may be,
into a moderate oven, and bake them brown. Then crush them with
a rolling pin or pound them in a mortar, pass them through a fine wire
sieve, and keep them in an air-tight tin. To make them more quickly,
brown white breadcrumbs in a hot oven, turning them frequently
during the process, pass them through a fine sieve and use.
HERBS, CONDIMENTS, AND AUXILIARIES 1647
Breadcrumbs (Fried). — Put some fresh, fine white breadcrumbs into
a frying-pan or baking-tin, with a small piece of butter : season with
salt and pepper, and either fry or bake until well-browned. Drain
well on paper, and serve hot with roast game.
Browning or Liquid Caramel. — Put 1 lb. of either loaf or moist sugar
into a copper stewpan, add about 2 tablespoonfuls of cold water, and
stir over a slow fire until the mixture turns dark brown. When a
whitish smoke appears it is a sign that the sugar is done. As soon as
this point is reached, remove the stewpan from the fire, and pour in
about \ a pint of boiling water. Bring to the boil, stirring meanwhile,
and continue the cooking until the caramel has the consistency of
syrup. When cool, bottle for use. If a copper stewpan is not avail-
able, use a small iron saucepan ; put 1 lb. of moist sugar and
2 tablespoonfuls of salt into a frying-pan, and cook and stir over the
fire until the mixture becomes dark-brown. Then add f of a pint of
boiling water, stir until the water re-boils, and simmer until the cara-
mel acquires the consistency of syrup. When cold, bottle for use ;
put 2 ozs. of crushed loaf sugar into a small iron saucepan, with 1
teaspoonful of cold water, and stir with an iron spoon over a slow fire
until the sugar turns dark-brown : then add \ a pint of boiling water,
stir until it re-boiis : simmer from 15 to 20 minutes, and, when cool,
pour into a bottle. Some little care is needed in making caramel, as
it is so very apt to burn, when it becomes acrid and unpleasant : if,
on the other hand, it is not sufficiently cooked, a disagreeable sweet
taste will be imparted to everything to which it is added.
Butter (Clarified). — Put the butter into a small stewpan. let it heat
slowly by the side of the fire, removing the scum as it rises, and when
the butter presents the appearance of clear salad-oil, carefully pour it
oil from the sediment at the bottom of the pan. Clarified butter, or,
as it, is sometimes called, oiled or melted butter, is frequently served
instead of sauce with fish, meat, and vegetables : it is also used to
moisten the surface of many things grilled or cooked “ au gratin ” :
and it is also frequently employed for coating moulds and baking-tins.
Butter (Anchovy). — To 1 oz. of butter add a teaspoonful of lemon-
juice, 1 teaspoonful of anchovy essence or paste, a pinch of cayenne,
and a few drops of cochineal or carmine. Mix all well together,
and use as required.
Butter (Maitre d’Hotel). — Mix well together 1 oz. of butter, 1 tea-
spoonful of finely-chopped parsley, and 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice,
a little salt and pepper to taste. Spread the preparation on a plate,
and when cold and firm, use as required.
Caul. — Pig’s caul is best to use. Let it remain in salt and water
until required, changing the water each day. Drain it well before
using.
Coating with Egg and Breadcrumbs. — For this purpose an egg, slightly
beaten, and without seasoning or flavouring of any description, is
1648
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
frequently used : but better results may be obtained by adding to the
egg 1 teaspoonful of salad-oil or clarified butter, 1 dessertspoonful of
milk, i a saltspoonful of salt, and half this quantity of pepper. These
ingredients being mixed together on a plate, the articles to be fried
should be laid separately in the preparation, and coated thickly by
means of a small brush. After being well drained on the point of a
knife, they should be tossed lightly in plenty of breadcrumbs held in
a sheet of paper. Before frying, the crumbs should be pressed firmly
on with the blade of a knife.
Croutes and Croutons. — Of these there are various kinds. The large
croute, used as a support for an entree, is usually cut according to the
size of the dish in which it will be served. The size therefore varies,
but the average may be taken as 6^- inches in length, about q-|- in
breadth, and from 1 \ to 2 inches in depth. Unless the crust of the
bread can be utilized, there is considerable waste in the cutting. The
small croutes used for garnish or savouries should be cut out of slices
of stale bread about to ^ an inch in thickness. They may be cut
round, oval, square, in triangles or heart-shaped, according to fancy.
They are nicest when fried in clarified butter until lightly browned,
but clarified fat does very well as a substitute. After frying, they
should always be well drained, and kept hot and crisp in front of the
fire, or in the mouth of the oven. Another excellent way of preparing
croutes is to dip them in good gravy or well-seasoned stock until
saturated, and then place on a buttered baking-tin in the oven until
crisp. To make croutons to be served with soup, cut some stale bread
into dice, \ of an inch in size, fry them in hot butter or fat until lightly
browned, drain them first in a gravy strainer and then on paper until
quite free from grease.
Frying Batter. — Put 4 ozs. of flour and a saltspoonful of salt into a
basin, add gradually \ of a pint of tepid water and 1 tablespoonful
of salad oil or clarified butter, and mix into a smooth batter. If time
permits, put it aside for about 1 hour, then just before using, stir in
lightly two stiffly- whisked whites of eggs.
Glaze. — Put 4 quarts of good second stock into a stewpan, boil gently
until reduced to about £ a pint, skimming very frequently meanwhile.
When reduced to about 1 pint, the stock should be transferred to a
smaller stewpan. To make a little cheap glaze for immediate use,
dissolve 1 or 2 sheets of gelatine in 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of good gravy :
if necessary, add a few drops of liquid caramel, and when cold and on
the point of setting, use as required.
Mirepoix. — A mirepoix is the foundation for flavouring sauces, braised
meats, and a number of thick soups. It usually consists of equal
quantities of onion and carrot, half the quantity of turnip, 1 or 2 slices
of raw ham or bacon, a little butter, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme,
bayleaf), a few peppercorns, and 1 or 2 cloves. In recipes where the
mirepoix occurs the exact quantities of the ingredients comprising it
HERBS, CONDIMENTS, AND AUXILIARIES 1649-
are given. In all cases where it is intended the mirepoix should form
the foundation for braising, sufficient vegetables should be used to
make a substantial bed upon which to place the bird, joint, etc.
Mustard (To mix). — Mustard is usually prepared for use by simply
mixing it smoothly with cold water : and it is generally considered of
right consistency when sufficiently moist to drop slowly from the spoon.
A saltspoonful of salt added to each tablespoonful of mustard not only
improves the flavour, but it also prevents the mustard from becoming
so quickly dry. If desired, the pungency may be greatly increased by
mixing a little chilli vinegar and cayenne with the mustard, the flavour
of the whole being softened by the addition of a good pinch of sugar.
On the other hand, when a very mild flavour of mustard is liked, it
may be obtained by using cream or milk, preferably the former, instead
of water. In any case it should be mixed in small quantities, as it
quickly loses its flavour and fresh appearance.
Panade or Panada. — Put \ a pint of water, 1 oz. of butter, and a good
pinch of salt into a small stewpan. When boiling, stir in gradually
4 ozs. of sifted flour, and work vigorously with a wooden spoon over the
fire until the panada leaves the sides of the stewpan clear. Spread
on a plate, and when cool, use as directed. Panada is used to bind
together ingredients which themselves possess no adhesive pro-
perties.
Parsley, To blanch. — Well wash the parsley, pick it free from stalks,
put it into a stewpan with some cold salted water, and when the boiling
point is reached, strain it off and dry the parsley by squeezing it well
in a clean cloth. The stalks of the parsley may be used for flavouring
stocks and soups, for which purpose they answer quite as well as, if
not better than, the leaves.
Parsley, To chop. — Parsley intended for garnish should always be
blanched, but for ordinary purposes thorough washing of the sprigs,
picked free from stalks, is all that is necessary. After drying well in
a clean cloth, chop it finely, keeping the left hand pressed firmly on the
point of the knife, whilst moving the handle up and down rapidly with
the right. When fine enough, gather up the parsley in the corner of
a clean cloth and hold it. under the tap, or in a basin, squeezing with
the fingers until the water running from it is clear and bright green :
then wring dry, and use.
Parsley, To fry. — Remove some small sprigs from some fresh parsley,
wash it in cold water, drain well, and press gently in a clean, dry cloth
to absorb as much moisture as possible, otherwise the damp leaves
may cause the hot fat to spurt up in an unpleasant, if not dangerous,
manner. When the articles are fried, put the parsley in a wire
basket into the fat, and fry about 1 minute, when it should be
crisp. Or, when a frying-basket is not available, leave rather long
stalks attached to the parsley, tie them together with string, and
let a long end remain, by which the parsley can be held whilst frying.
1650
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Fried parsley can be kept fresh and crisp for several days if stored in
an air-tight tin : before using, it should be re-heated in the oven.
Peel : To Peel Almonds and Pistachios. — Cover the nuts with boiling
water, let them remain for 6 or 7 minutes, then strain, replace them in
the basin, and cover with cold water. When cool, drain well, and
remove the skins by pressing each nut between the thumb and fore-
finger. Dry well on a sieve, and use as required.
Potato Border (White). — For one border allow 3 medium-sized potatoes.
Boil or steam them and pass through a fine sieve. Add 1 raw yolk of
egg, \ an oz. of butter, salt and pepper to taste, and well mix the
ingredients over the fire. As soon as the potato is cool enough to
handle, shape it into a long, narrow roll, using as little flour as
possible : arrange it on the dish in a round or oval form, re-heat in
the oven, and use.
Potato Border (Brown). — Prepare a border as directed above, place
it carefully on a greased baking-tin, brush over with beaten egg, bake
until nicely browned, then transfer to a hot dish, using two fish slices
for the purpose.
Rice Border (Socle). — Borders of rice or white fat are frequently used
to raise a cold entree above the level of the dish. To make a rice
border, put 1 lb. of well-washed Caroline rice into a stewpan, with 3
pints of cold water and 1 teaspoonful of salt : cook slowly until the
water is absorbed and the rice perfectly tender, then pound it to a
smooth paste in a mortar. Press well into a wetted border mould,
or turn the rice on to a pastry slab or large dish, knead well with the
hands until a smooth elastic paste is obtained, then shape it with a
couple of wooden spoons into a round or oval block. The edges must
be neatly trimmed with a sharp knife, and, if liked, they may be cut
by the same means into a serrated, fluted, or other suitable design.
The socle should be allowed to become firm before being used.
Rice (For curry). — Put \ a lb. of Patna rice in a stewpan, with
sufficient cold water to cover it : bring to the boil, then strain, and
hold the strainer under the cold water tap until the rice is thoroughly
washed. Have ready 3 or 4 pints of salted boiling water, put in the
rice, and cook from 12 to 15 minutes, then turn it into a colander,
pour some hot water over it, cover with a clean dry cloth, and let the
rice remain in the screen or near the fire for about 2 hours, when every
grain should be separate. A less troublesome, but at the same time
less satisfactory, way of preparing rice is to omit the blanching pro-
cess, and simply wash the rice in cold water before cooking. It is
boiled as described above, and the finishing process may be carried
out in two ways : In the first, after being strained and rinsed in cold
water, the rice is returned to the saucepan and allowed to remain,
covered with a clean cloth or with the lid tilted for about 1 hour,
when each grain should be separate and perfectly dry. Or, after being
washed and rinsed, it may be tied loosely in a pudding cloth, and
HERBS, CONDIMENTS, AND AUXILIARIES 1651
steamed for 1 hour ; when a steamer is not available, the rice may be
laid on a plate on the top of an inverted basin, and placed in a saucepan
containing a little boiling water.
Roux. — This is the French term for a preparation used for thickening
sauces, soups, and gravies. There are three kinds of roux : “ white,”
‘‘ blond,” and “ brown,” all of which consist of equal quantities of
butter and flour cooked together over the fire. The butter and flour
are fried for a few minutes without browning, when white roux is
required, and until slightly browned in making blond roux ; but when
the third variety is desired, the frying process must be prolonged until
the roux acquires a rich nut-brown colour. ( See p. 208 for further
particulars.)
Salpieon. — This name is applied to the various mixtures used for
filling timbales, bombs, patty-cases, croustades, ramakins, etc. It may
consist of dice of chicken, game, veal, ham, tongue, truffles, mushrooms,
oysters, shrimps, lobster, sole, or other kind of fish, variously seasoned,
and moistened with a thick sauce, usually Bechamel or Espagnole.
Sieve : To Rub or Pass Through a Sieve. — The means employed for
rubbing or pressing any substance through a sieve is the back of the
bowl of a wooden spoon, the exception being breadcrumbs, which are
usually rubbed through with the palm of the hand. In the case of
meat, lentil, haricot, and similar purees, sieving is not an easy process,
but it may l>e greatly facilitated by frequently moistening the puree
with any liquid ingredients included in the recipe.
To Whip Cream. — Put the cream into a cold basin, and stand in a
cool place whilst whipping it. Use an ordinary wire whisk for the
purpose, whip gently until the cream begins to thicken, then a little
more quickly. In warm weather cream quickly turns to butter if
overwhipped : should this occur, continue the whipping to make the
conversion complete, and use the butter for cookery purposes. When
the whipped cream is not intended for immediate use, let it drain on
a hair sieve in a cool place until required.
GLOSSARY OF CULINARY
TERMS
CHAPTER LXII
Abaisse (Fr.). A paste thinly rolled out, used for lining tarts and souffles,
croustades, etc.
Abatis (Fr.). The head, neck, liver, comb, kernels, and wings of a bird.
Giblets.
Abricote (Fr. ). Candied apricot (Eng.). Masked with apricot marmalade.
Absinthe (Fr.). Name of an aromatic plant ; also that of a liqueur prepared
from this plant, much used in France and Switzerland as a beverage
to stimulate the appetite ; sometimes used for flavouring purposes.
Swiss Absinthe is made from plants related to wormwood and
southernwood.
Aceto dolce (It.) (Sour and sweet). A kind of Italian pickle, prepared with
various sorts of fruit, preserved in vinegar and honey. It is served
with meats.
Achaja. Name of a Greek wine.
Africaine (a 1’). African style. Also a name for small tartlets.
Agneau (Fr.). Lamb (Eng.). A young sheep.
Agneau de lait (Fr.). A milk lamb.
Aide de Cuisine (Fr.). Undercook (Eng.). Assistant cook.
Aiguillettes (Fr. ). Needles. Small strips of cooked meat or fish.
Aguille-a-Brider (Fr.). Larding needle.
Ajoutees (Fr.). Added or mixed ; small garnish or side dishes served w'ith a
vegetable course.
A la Broche (Fr.). Roasted in front of the fire on a spit or skewer.
A la mode de (Fr.). After the style or fashion of, e.g., a la Fran5aise, French
style ; a la Reine, Queen style ; a l’lmperatrice, Empress style ;
a la Russe, Russian style, etc.
A 1’Allemande. German style. A term applied to dishes prepared in a
manner peculiar to Germany. Thus a dish garnished with sauerkraut
and pork (pickled and boiled) is called a 1’Allemande. A dish gar-
nished with potato quenelles or smoked sausages may be similarly
defined.
Allemande (Fr.). A w'hite reduced veloute sauce, made from veal stock,
thickened with flour, cream, yolk of egg, and seasoned with nutmeg
and lemon -juice.
Ailerei (Ger.). Name of a German dish, consisting of stewed early spring
vegetables. A kind of macedoine of vegetables, popular in Leipzig.
Aloyau (Sirloin). The sirloin of beef is said to owe its name to King Charles II,
who, dining off a loin of beef, and being well pleased with it, asked the
name of the joint. On being told, he said : “ For its merit, then, I
will knight it, and henceforth it shall be called Sir Loin. In an old
ballad the incident is thus referred to —
“ Our Second Charles, of fame facete,
On loin of beef did dine ;
He held his sword, pleased, o’er the meat, — -
‘ Arise, thou famed Sir Loin ! ’ ”
Ambigue (Fr.). A term indicating that the meat and sweets are served at
the same time.
1652
GLOSSARY OF CULINARY TERMS 1653
Ameaux (Fr.). Pastry made of puff paste and eggs.
Amirale (a 1’) (Fr.). A garnish; used chiefly for fish consisting of fried
oysters, sliced fillets of lobster, and brown sauce. The term is also
applied to meat dishes and sweet entremets.
Anglaise (a 1’) (Fr.). English style. Affixed to a dish usually, but not
necessarily, implies that it consists of something plainly roasted or
boiled, or that the dish is prepared in a style typical of Eng-
land.
Angouste (a 1’) (Fr.). An American garnish for meat entrees, consisting of
baked eggs.
Appereils (Fr.). Different ingredients mixed together into a puree or paste.
Appetissants (Fr.). Appetising bits (Eng.). Small tit-bits or savouries served
before or between the courses of a dinner.
Aromates (Fr. ). Aromatic herbs used for flavouring, such as thyme, bay-
leaves, tarragon, chervil, etc.
Aspic (Fr.). A savoury jelly, used as an exterior moulding for cold savouries
and entrees of fish, poultry, game, etc. Also used for garnishing.
A l’aspic, set in aspic, or garnished with aspic.
Aspiquer (Fr.). A Parisian culinary phrase, meaning to put lemon-juice
or “ reduced vinegar ” into a jelly, a sauce or a gravy (gouffe) ; the
expression is however misleading, the proper term is aciduler, to
acidulate.
Assaisonnement (Fr.). Seasoning, salt and pepper, etc. Forcemeat, condi-
ment, sauce.
Assiette (plate) (Fr.). Assiettcs are the small entrees and hors d’oeuvres, the
quantity of which does not exceed what a plate will hold. At dessert,
fruits, cheese, chestnuts, biscuits, etc., if served upon a plate, are termed
Assieltes.
Assiette volante is a dish which a servant hands round to the guests,
but is not placed upon the table. Small cheese souffles, and different
dishes which should be served very hot, are usually made Assiettes
volantes.
Atelets (Fr.). (Also Hatelettes). A variety of skewers used for decorating
joints and entrees.
Attereau (Fr.). A popular ragout in Bretagne.
Attereaux (Fr.). Small rounds of raw minced meat, wrapped in a pig’s caul
and cooked on skewers.
Au bleu (Fr.). A culinary term applied to fish boiled in salted water, seasoned
with vegetables, herbs, and white wine or vinegar.
Au four (Fr.). Baked in the oven.
Au gras (Fr.). A French term for meat dressed with rich gravy or sauce.
Au gratin (Fr.). A term applied to certain dishes prepared with sauce, gar-
nish and breadcrumbs, and baked brown in the oven or under a sala-
mander ; served in the dish in which they are baked.
Au jus (Fr.). A term for dishes of meat dressed with their juice or gravy.
Au maigre (Fr.). A French expression used for dishes prepared without
meat. Lenten dishes.
Au naturel (Fr.). Food cooked plainly and simply.
Aurore (Fr..). A yellow colour (Eng.). A culinary expression meaning “dished
up ” high. A garnish consisting of stuffed eggs, quartered, bread
croutons, and aurore sauce.
Aurore sauce consists of Allemande or Bechamel and Tomato Sauce,
flavoured with chilli vinegar and dice of mushrooms.
Baba (Polish babka). A very light yeast cake. A substitute for tipsy cake.
Babka. Name of a Polish-Russian cake. Prepared as a custard, containing
fruit, almonds, etc.
1654 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Bagration (Fr.). A word used to denote high-class dishes (soups). Bagration
was a Russian Count, whose chief cook was the celebrated A. Careme.
Bain-marie (Fr.). The culinary water bath. It is a large open vessel, half
filled with hot water, in which saucepans containing sauces, etc. are
kept so that their contents are nearly at the boiling-point without
burning or reducing.
Ballotine (Fr. ). Slices of small galantines, usually made from the legs of game
or poultry. Small balls or rolls of meat or fowl.
Baraquille (Fr.). A large pie made of rice, chicken and truffles.
Barbecue (Fr.). The mode of cooking (roasting) an animal whole ; a social
entertainment in the open air ; to dress and roast whole.
Barbettes en casserole (Fr.). Stewed eel-pout (Eng.). En casserole also
denotes a special process of cooking in a fireproof earthenware pan.
Batons royaux (Fr.). Small patties of minced chicken or game : the favourite
dish of Charles XII. of France.
Batterie de cuisine (Fr.). A complete set of cooking utensils and apparatus.
Bavaroise (Fr.). Bavarian cream. A term applied to creams, but incorrectly
used unless custard forms their base.
Bearnaise (Fr.). A word much used in cookery for a rich white herb sauce.
It is derived from Bearn, one of the provinces into which France was
formerly divided, its chief town, Pau, was the birthplace of King
Henry IV, a great gourmand.
Bechamel (Fr.). French white sauce. Recognized as one of the four foun-
dation sauces. It is supposed to take its name from the Marquis
de Bechamel, an excellent chef, who acted as steward in the service
of King Louis- XIV.
Beignets (Fr.). Fritters (Eng.). Also a kind of pancake, fried in deep fat.
Blanquette (Fr.). A white fricassee or stew, usually made of veal or fowl,
with a white sauce enriched with cream or egg-yolks.
Bombe (Fr.). An iced pudding filled with a rich custard of fruit cream,
shape of a bomb.
Bon gout (Fr.). Highly flavoured dishes and sauces. Good taste.
Bordelaise (a la) (Fr.). Name of a French sauce (brown), in which Bordeaux
or Burgundy forms one of the ingredients. Also a garnish.
Bouchees (Fr.). “ A mouthful.” Small puff paste patties (petits pates).
Bouille a Baisse (Fr.). A kind of fish stew, very popular in France.
Thackeray celebrated its virtues in his ballad, which begins:
“ This Bouille a baisse, a noble dish is,
A sort of soup, a broth, or stew;
A hotel-potch of all kinds of fishes,
That Greenwich never could outdo,” etc.
Bouilli (Fr.). Fresh boiled beef or other meat, but generally speaking boiled
beef is understood by the term.
Bouillie (Fr.). Boiled fresh beef with vegetable garnish. A French dish
resembling Hasty Pudding.
Bouillon (Fr.). Broth or stock made of veal, beef, or chicken.
Bouquet garni (Fr.). Parsley, thyme, and bay -leaves tied up in a small
bunch; used to impart a rich flavour to stews, sauces, etc.
Brioche (Fr.). A light French yeast cake, similar to Bath buns. The favourite
French breakfast bun, eaten hot with coffee or tea.
Brioche (a la). Roasted in front of the fire on a spit or skewer.
Buisson (Fr.). A garnish consisting of small groups of shrimps, crayfish, etc.
Also applied to a method of twisting up pastry to a point.
Cabillaud farci (Fr.). Stuffed codfish.
Cafe vierge (Fr.). An infusion of the whole coffee beans. Pure coffee.
Callipash. The fatty gelatinous substance close to the upper shell of a turtle.
GLOSSARY OF CULINARY TERMS
1655
Callipee. The glutinous meat found in the under part of a turtle’s undershell,
Canapes. Small shapes of fried or toasted bread upon which savouries, etc.,
are served. The word means “ sofa.”
Canard roti (Fr.). Roast duck (Eng.).
Canard sauvage (Fr.). Wild duck (Eng.).
Caneton roti (Fr.). Roast duckling (Eng.),
Cannelons (Fr.) or Canelons. Small rolls of pastry or rice stuffed with
minced meat, jam, cream, etc,
Capilotade (Fr.). A kind of hashed game or chicken.
Capon (Eng.). Chapon (Fr.). A castrated male chicken or fowl.
Caramel (Fr.). A substance made by boiling sugar fo a dark brown, used for
coating moulds and for liquid colouring.
Careasse (Fr.). Carcass (Eng.). The body of an animal ; the bones of
poultry or game.
Carde d la moelle (Fr,). Pieces of marrow braised with bacon. Served with
Cardes Puree.
Cardon (Fr.). Cardoon (Eng.). A vegetable of the celery tribe.
Carmin or Carmine. Crimson colouring used in confectionery, etc.
Carpentras (a la) (Fr.). A surname for dishes flavoured or garnished with
truffles. Carpentras, like Perigord, is a district where truffles of
excellent flavour and size grow largely.
Carte du Jour (la) (Fr.). The bill of fare for the day, showing the price
of each dish.
Casserole (Fr.). A copper stewpan. When used in menus it indicates the
case of rice, baked paste crust or macaroni, filled with minced meat,
game puree, etc.
Caviar (Fr.). Caviare (Eng.). The salted roe of the sturgeon or ster Jet fish.
Celestine. A monk so named after Pope Celestin. A garnish for clear soup,
consisting of fine strips of fried pancakes, A la Celestine (Fr.), from
the Latin eoelestis (heavenly). Several dishes are so named.
Charcuterie (Fr.). “Roughly slashed”; in a culinary sense the word
denotes “ pretty tiny kickshaws ” of pork, which are prepared in
many different fashions. Black pudding, pig’s feet truffled, smoked
pig’s ear with truffles, Nancy chitterlings, saveloy, pig’s fiver, are all
items of charcuterie.
Charlotte (Fr.). A corruption of the old English word Charlyt, “a dish of
custard.” Charlotte russe and apple charlotte consist usually of
thin slices of bread or biscuits, steeped in clarified butter or sugar,
arranged in plain moulds in a symmetrical order, and afterwards
garnished with cream, fruit, or preserve.
Chartreuse. Originally a preparation consisting of vegetables only, arranged
in a plain- mould. Now the term is applied to fruit set in jelly, and
moulded game, poultry, etc.
Chateaubriand. Name of Viscount Francois Auguste, a great French gour-
mand, 1769-1848. A favourite dish of fillet steak is called after him.
Chauilfroid (Fr.). A cold entree ; a sauce used for masking cold fish, game,
poultry, etc.
Chaussons (Fr.). A kind of French round pie filled with jam.
Chevreuse (Fr.). Small goose liver tartlets.
Chinois (Fr.). A pointed strainer with very fine holes, used for straining
soups, sauces, and gravies. A Chinese fruit.
Chipolata (It ). Small Italian sausages. It takes its origin from an Italian
ragout. This name is also given to dishes which contain an addition
of Italian sausages, or a kind of mixed minced preat with which they
are served.
Choueroute (Fr.). Sauerkraut (Ger.). A kind of pickled cabbage; the
national dish of Germany,
1656 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Chow-chow. Name of a kind of pickle consisting of a combination of various
vegetables, such as cauliflower buds, button onions, gherkins, French
beans, and tiny carrots. These are preserved in a kind of mustard
sauce, seasoned with strongly flavoured aromatic spices.
Chowder (Eng.). A dish of American origin. It consists of boiled pickled
pork cut in slices, fried onions, slices of turbot or other fish, and mashed
potatoes, all placed alternately in a stewpan, seasoned with spices and
herbs, claret and ketchup, and simmered.
Ciboulette (Fr.). Small green onions, chives.
Citronne (Fr.). Anything which has the taste or flavour of lemon.
Clouter (Fr.). To insert nail-shaped pieces of truffle, bacon, or tongue into
meat or poultry. The holes to receive them are made by means of a
skewer.
Cochenille (Fr.) (Cochineal). A liquid colouring substance, used for colouring
creams, sauces, icing, etc. It is obtained from insects known as
coccus, indigenous to Mexico and Guatemala. The insects are dried
in an oven heated to 150° Fahr. It requires 70,000 insects to produce
a pound of dye.
Cochin de lait (Fr.). Sucking pig (Eng.).
Colbert (Fr.). A French clear soup and other dishes, named after John
Baptiste Colbert, a clever statesman in the reign of Louis XIV of
France, 1619-1683.
Compiegne (Fr.). A light yeast cake with crystallized fruit. Also name
of a famous French castle built by St. I.ouis and rebuilt by Louis
XIV of France. Joan of Arc was taken prisoner here by the English,
H30.
Compote (Fr.). Stew of small birds. Fruit or vegetables stewed and
daintily dressed.
Concasser (Fr.). Coarsely pounded.
Cond6. Name of an old French family. Prince Louis de Conde (1621-1687)
was a famous field-marshal. Several soups and entrees, of which
rice forms an essential part, are styled “ a la Conde.”
Confiture (Fr.). Fruit jams. Also sweetmeats of sugar and fruits. Fruit
pastes.
Consomme. Clear gravy soup. The clarified liquor in which meat or poultry
has been boiled, or the liquor from the stock pot clarified.
Contiser (Fr.). To insert truffles into fillets of meat or fish.
Cordon (Fr.). A cord or ribbon bestowed as a badge of honour.
Cordon Bleu (Fr.). An ancient culinary distinction bestowed on skilful
female cooks in France since the time of Louis XV. It consists of a
rosette made of dark blue ribbon.
Cordon Rouge. Name of culinary distinction, granted by an English society
of the same title to skilful cooks of both sexes, and to others who are
celebrated for the invention of valuable articles of food or drink. The
badge of the Order consists of a modelled white heart cherry, suspended
by a cherry-red ribbon.
Cote (Fr.). A rib slice of beef or veal. The word cotelette is derived from
cote , and means a piece of meat with the portion of the rib attached.
Cotelettes (Fr.). Cutlets. Small slices of meat cut from the neck of veal,
mutton, lamb, or pork. Also thin slices of meat from other parts.
Cou-de-gin de modene (Fr.). Name of a special kind of Italian sausage.
Couglof! (Fr.). Kugelhopf (Ger.). A German cake; a kind of rich dough
cake.
Coulibriac. Name of a Russian dish — a kind of fish-cake mixture wrapped
up in Brioche paste and baked.
Coulis (Fr.). A rich savoury stock sauce ; German grundsauce, i.e. bottom
sauce below the fat, lean sauce of a braise or blanc,
GLOSSARY OF CULINARY TERMS 1657
Court-Bouillon (Fr.). Name given to a broth in which fish has been boiled ;
a highly seasoned fish stock and stew.
Crapaudine (Fr.). A grating gridiron ; hence “ mettre a la crapaudine,”
to grill, e.g. pigeons. Gridiron. Meaning browned or grilled over,
or in front of a fire.
Craquelins (Fr.). Cracknels (Eng.). Milk biscuits.
Crecy, Potage a la (Fr.). Crecy or carrot soup (Eng.). A vegetable puree
said to have been invented by Baron Brisse. Dishes named “ a la
Crecy ” are generally connected with carrots in the form of a puree.
Crepes (Fr.). French pancakes (Eng.).
Cretes (Fr.). Giblets of poultry or game.
Croquantes (Fr.). A transparent mixture of various kinds of fruit and boiled
sugar.
Croquants. Confections giving the sound of crunching or cracking between
the teeth.
Croque en Bouche (Fr.). Large set pieces for suppers or dinners, such as
nougat, iced cakes, fruits, covered with boiled sugar to give them a
brilliant appearance. The real meaning of the word is “ crackle in
the mouth.”
Croquettes (Fr.). Savoury mince of fowl, meat or fish, prepared with sauce
to bind, variously shaped ; generally egged, crumbed, and fried crisp.
Croustades (Fr.). Shapes of fried bread, rice or pastry, in which various
mixtures are served.
Croutes. Blocks or shapes of fried bread, used as a basis for dressing salmis,
whole birds, etc.
Croute-au-pot. Clear soup garnished with small crisply-baked slices of
bread.
Croutons (Fr.). Sippets of fried or toasted bread cut into dice shapes and
fried, used for garnishing dishes.
Cuilleres do cuisine (Fr.) are wooden spoons. The use of wooden spoons is
strongly recommended instead of metal spoons, especially for stirring
sauces. The latter often contain acids which produce a black colour.
Cuisine (Fr.). Kitchen, cookery. Faire la cuisine, to cook or to dress vic-
tuals.
Cuissot. The haunch. Cuissot de veau, cuissot de cochon, cuissot de boeuf,
etc.
Culinaire (Fr.). This term is applied to anything connected with the kitchen
or the art of cooking. A good cook is called “ un artiste culinaire.”
Culofte. Aitchbone of beef.
Curasao (Fr.). A liqueur prepared from the yellow part of the rind of a
peculiar kind of bitter orange grown in the island of Curasao, S. Amer-
ica, whence its name. Used for flavouring creams, jellies, ices, etc.
Dampfnudeln (Ger.) (literally steam-nudels). Ribbon macaroni steamed.
A sweet dish popular in Germany.
Dariole (Fr.). A kind of small entree pate, composed of a compound of
forcemeat or mince, baked or steamed in small moulds. Certain small
tarts are called by this name. The name usually applies to the shape
of the moulds. Also some kinds of cheese-cakes are called darioles.
Ivettner asserts that a dariole means something made of milk.
Origin of the word unknown.
Darne (Fr.). The middle cut of large fish, salmon or cod.
D’ Artois (Fr.). A kind of French pastry (puff paste and jam).
Daub or Daube (Fr.). Meats or poultry stewed, larded.
Daubiere (Fr.). An oval-shaped stewpan, in which meats or birds are to be
daubed or stewed.
Dauphine (Fr.). A style of garnish ; also name of a kind of dough-nuts,
1(358
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
beignets, etc. A kind of potato croquette. Known in Germany
as Berliner Pfannkuchen.
Debrider (Fr.). To untruss ; to remove the strings or skewers from a piece
of meat or bird.
Degraisser (Fr.). To skim off fat or grease from soups, etc.
Desosser (Fr.). To bone ; to remove the bones from meat, poultry, or game.
Dhall or Dholl. A kind of pulse much used in India for kedgeree, or as a kind
of porridge. In England it is best represented by split peas or lentils.
Diable (Fr.). “ Devil.” The term is applied to dishes with sharp and hot
seasoning.
Diner (Fr.). Dinner (Eng.). “ L’heure du diner,” dinner hour, in Henry VIII’s
time was at 1 1 a.m.
Dormant or Surtout de table (Fr.). Decorative objects which are left on the
table to the end of a meal.
Dorure or Dorer (Fr.). Beaten yolks of eggs, used for brushing over pastrv,
etc.
Dragees (Fr.). Sugar plum (Eng.). A kind of sweetmeat made of fruits,
small pieces of rinds or aromatic roots, covered with a coating of icing.
Dunelm. A dish of braised mutton or veal, originating from Durham, the
Roman name of which was Dunelm.
Duxelles or D’Uxelles (Fr.). A name given to a mixture of chopped mush-
rooms, shallots, parsley, etc. added to sauce. Name of a French
marquis, a great gourmand and gastronomer, who lived at the end
of the seventeenth century. Author of an excellent book on French
cookery. A savoury puree (mince) and a sauce arc known by
this name.
Echauder (Fr.). To steep in boiling water. This is often done with fowls
or game, to facilitate the removing of the feathers or hair.
Eclair (Fr.). A French pastry filled with cream or custard.
Eclanche (Fr.). Shoulder of mutton.
Ecossaise (a 1*). Scotch style.
Emince (Fr.). Minced ; finely sliced or shredded.
Emonder (Fr.). To blanch almonds. When almonds are steeped in boiling
water in order to peel them, the French say “ on les emonde,”
En couronne. Anything dished in the shape of a crown.
Entree (Fr.). A course of dishes, or corner dish for the first course ; the
conventional term for hot or cold side dishes. Also defined as dishes
generally served with a sauce.
Entremets (F'r.). Dainty dishes of vegetables or hot and cold sweets and
after-dinner savouries served as second course.
Epigrammes (Fr.). “ A short pointed poem.” Used as a culinary
term for small fillets of poultry and game, and the breast of lamb or
mutton braised and divided into small portions, egged, crumbed and
fried. Also defined as a dish of alternate cutlets of the neck and
breast.
Escalopes (Fr.). Thin round steaks of veal called “ collops.” Obsolete
cascalope, meaning thin slices of any kind of meat, usually egged,
crumbed and fried. Fish, meat, etc., served in scallop shells.
Escargot (Fr.). The edible vineyard snail.
Estouffade (Fr.) or Etuvee. A term used to denote a way of cooking
meats, etc., slowly in a covered stewpan.
Faire Revenir (Fr.). A term often used in French cookery books ; meaning to
partially fry meat or vegetables, slightly browning w'ithout actually
cooking them.
GLOSSARY OF CULINARY TERMS
1659
Fanehonnettes (Fr.). Small custard tartlets masked with meringue.
Farce (Fr.). Forcemeat or stuffing, from the Latin word farsum, to fill, to
stuff. From this is derived the word farcimen, a sausage. The
term is applied to herb preparations of which meat forms no part,
as well as forcemeats consisting principally of meat.
Faubonne (Fr.). A vegetable puree soup seasoned with savoury herbs.
Faux (Fr.) (false). Used in “ potage a la fausse tortue ” (mock turtle soup).
Feeule (Fr.). A fine flour used for binding soups and sauces.
Fermiere (a la) (Fr.). Farmhouse style. Denotes a garnish consisting of
cooked carrots, lettuce, cauliflower, and small round fried potatoes.
Feuilletage (Fr.). Puff paste; leafy, flaky.
Fidelini (It.). A kind of straight vermicelli paste.
Filet (Fr.). Fillet. The under -cut of a loin of beef, mutton, veal, pork and
game. Boned breasts of poultry, birds, and the boned sides of
fish also are called fillets.
Financiere (Fr.). Name of a very rich ragout used in entrees consisting
of cocks’ combs, truffles, etc.
Fines-herbes (Fr.). A combination of finely chopped fresh herbs, such as
parsley, tarragon, chervil and other kitchen herbs ; mostly used in
omelets and sauces.
Flamande (a la). (Fr.) Flemish style. A garnish consisting of braised
savoy cabbage and a macedoine of vegetables.
Flamber (Fr.). To singe poultry or game. To cover a pudding or omelet
with spirit and set it alight.
Fleurons (Fr.). Small half-moon shapes of puff paste, baked, used for gar-
nishing entrees.
Flummery (Eng.). Cold sweet dish, mainly of cereals, originally of oatmeal
set in a mould and turned out. To be eaten with wine, cider, milk
or a compound sauce. Dutch flummery is made with isinglass, yolks
and flavourings ; Spanish flummery, of cream, rice flour, cinnamon
and sugar ; to be eaten with sweet preserves.
Foie-gras (Fr.). Fat goose liver.
Foie de veau (Fr.). Calf’s liver.
Foncer (Fr.). To line the bottom of a stewpan with slices of ham or bacon.
Fond (Fr.). Strong gravy, meat, stock ; bottom, as in “ fond d’artichaut.”
Fondant (Fr.). Melting. A soft kind of icing ; dessert bon-bons.
Fondue (Fr.). A preparation of melted cheej's, originally made in Switzer-
land. A savoury.
Fouettee (Fr.). Whipped with the whisk.
Fourrd (Fr.). Coated with sugar, cream, etc.
Fraises (Fr.). Strawberries.
Framboises (Fr.). Raspberries.
Frangaise (a la) (Fr.). In a manner peculiar to France.
Frangipane. A substitute for custards made of eggs, milk, some flour, with
an addition of lemon -peel, rum, brandy, vanilla, etc., to flavour.
Frapper (Fr.). To place on ice. Ice (used when cooling champagne). To
beat or strike.
Fricandeau (Fr.). Braised larded fillet of veal. This dish is supposed to have
been invented by Jean de Careme, who was the direct ancestor of the
famous Careme. He was cook to Pope Leo X. This pontiff possessed
magnificent tastes ; he fostered the genius of Raphael the painter,
and encouraged also the genius which could discover a fricandeau.
Fricandelles (Fr.). Small thin braised steaks of veal or game.
Fricandines (Fr.). Small round patties containing mince. Something
crisply fried, such as rissoles and croquettes.
Fricassee (Fr.). Fricasseed. The word comes from the English freak, brisk,
dainty. A white stew of chicken or veal.
Frit (Fr.). Fried in shallow or deep fat.
i66o
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Frittata (It.). An Italian dish ; a kind of rolled pancake crumbed and fried
in fat.
Friture (Fr.). This word has two significations ; it applies to the fat, which
may be oil, lard or dripping in which articles are fried. It is
also applied to anything that has been fried, such as egged and crumbed
fried fish, fried potatoes; croquettes or rissoles being pre-eminently
popular under this term.
Frontage glace (Fr.). A dish of ice-cream in a cheese-like shape, or anything
glazed with cheese.
Fumet (Fr. ). The flavour or essence of game, fish, or any highly flavoured
concentrated substance used to impart a rich flavour to certain dishes.
Galantine (Fr.). A dish of white meat, rolled, served cold. A fowl or breast
of veal, boned and stuffed with farce, tongue, truffle, etc.
Galette (Fr.). A kind of French pastry. A species of light breakfast roll.
Galimafre (Fr.). A kind of ragout made of cold meat. Origin of the word
unknown.
Gargotage (Fr.). Badly dressed victuals.
Gastronomie (Fr.). Gastronomy. The art of good living. Strictly speak-
ing, the science of life, by which we discover what food, under various
circumstances, is the most suitable ; it also teaches us the effect it
bears upon man individually or a nation. — “ The Autocrat of the
Dinner Table.”
Gateau (Fr.). A round flat cake, generally decorated. Essentially a cake
made of well-beaten butter dough.
Gaufre (Fr.). A thin wafer -like biscuit ; wafer ; baked or fried in specially
constructed gaufre moulds. These consist of two opposed plates, and
are worked by handles.
Gelee (Fr.). Jelly. Inspissated juice of fruit or meat. “En gelee,” set
very thinly in sweet or savoury jelly.
Genevoise (a la) (Fr.). Geneva style.
Genievre (Fr.). Juniper berry. A blue-black berry, possessing a peculiar
aromatic flavour, used as a flavouring condiment in mirepoix, marin-
ades, etc. ; also used in syrups and liqueurs.
G6noise (Fr.). Genoese style. Also the name of a rich sponge cake. A
brown fish sauce.
Ghee. An Indian word for clarified butter. Indian butter is generally pre-
pared from buffaloes’ milk.
Gibier (Fr.). Game. Animals taken in the chase.
Gibolette (Fr..). A rabbit stew dressed with butter, onions and olive-shaped
potatoes.
Gigot a sept heures, or Gigot a la cuillere (Fr.). A leg of mutton which has
been cooked for seven hours, when it may be carved with a spoon.
Gimblettes (Fr.). A kind of French pastry, resembling and prepared simi-
larly to croque en bouche.
Gitana (Sp.). Signifies a garnish of which Spanish onions form the chief
part. Gipsy fashion.
Glace (Fr.). Frozen, iced or glazed ; coated or masked with glaze.
Glace de sucre (Fr.). (Glace royale). Icing sugar ; very fine dust sugar.
Glace de viande (Fr.). Meat glaze.
Glacer (Fr.). To glaze.
Glasure or glaze. A sugar icing.
Glaze (Eng..). Stock or gravy reduced to the thickness of jelly ; used for
glazing meats, etc., to improve their appearance. Well-made glaze
adheres firmly to the meat. Used also for strengthening soups and sauces.
Gnocchi (It.). A light savoury dough, boiled and served with grated Par-
mesan cheese (Italian dish).
Godiveau (Fr.). Rich veal forcemeat. Quenelles. Used as a garnish almost
exclusively.
GLOSSARY OF CULINARY TERMS
1661
Goulash or Gulash. A Hungarian dish. Finely sliced beef or veal stew,
highly seasoned with paprika (a kind of mild capsicum pepper).
Gourmand (Fr.). An epicure ; a ravenous eater ; a glutton.
Gourmet (Fr.). A judge of good living ; one who values and enjoys good
eating ; connoisseur in wine.
Goflt (Fr.). Taste or savour. Relish, to perceive by the tongue ; the sense
of tasting ; an intellectual relish.
Gouter (Fr. ). An afternoon meal ; a meat tea. To taste, to relish.
Gramolata (It.) A kind of half-frozen lemon. Water-ice served in glasses.
Gras (au) (Fr.). Dressed with rich meat gravy.
Gratin (au) (Fr.). A term applied to certain dishes prepared with sauce,
garnish and breadcrumbs, and baked brown in the oven or under a
salamander ; served in the dish on which baked.
Gratiner (Fr.). To brown the surface of contents of a dish.
Grenadine (Fr.). Small fillets of veal or fowl larded and braised.
Griotte (Fr.). A dark-red cherry, called Armenian cherry, suitable for com-
pote and jam.
Groseilles (Fr.). Gooseberries or currants.
Guinde pepper (Eng.). Poivre de guinee (Fr.). A kind of cayenne, prepared
from the seeds of the ripe chilli or capsicum annum. Also called
chilli pepper. Large quantities of this aromatic plant are grown in
Cayenne, in South America. The name of Guinee pepper is also given
to the ground seeds of dried fruit of certain plants of the same kind as
capsicums, all of which are of a pungent character, and are products
of West Africa.
Guisado (Sp.). A Spanish dish, mostly prepared with meat and potatoes
stewed together.
Gumbo. The American term for okra soup, or other preparations from
okra, gumbo being the name by which okra is chiefly known in South
America. Chicken gumbo is a puree or soup made from okra and
chicken.
Hache (Fr.). Minced meat, finely sliced meat.
Hacher-menu (Fr.). To mince meat finely.
Haggis. A kind of liver sausage (Scotch dish), from “ Hag,” to chop, or
“ Hachis,” to mince. The modern haggis consists of the liver, lights
and the heart of a sheep finely chopped, mixed with oatmeal and suet,
and seasoning. This is inserted in a sheep’s paunch and boiled for
several hours. Robert Burns greatly esteemed this dish, which was,
it is said, a favourite dish of the Romans.
Halaszle. A Hungarian fish stew.
Haricots panaches (Fr.). French beans or string beans mixed with flageolets
(green kidney beans).
Hatelet (Fr.). A small silver skewer garnished with cut roots, truffles, mush-
rooms, aspic, cocks’ combs, etc., used for ornamenting fish and remove
dishes.
Hatereau (Fr.). A dish of sliced liver ; a ragout popar in Bretagne.
Hautboy (Eng.). A species of strawberry.
Hautgofit (Fr.). Good taste. High flavour or strong seasoning.
Hollandaise (Fr.). Dutch style. Name of a cream-like sauce served with
fish or vegetables.
Horly. See Orly.
Hors d’oeuvres (Fr.). Small side dishes, served cold, generally before the
soup, in order to create an appetite. They consist of anchovies,
caviare, sardines and other dainty relishes.
Hure (Fr.). Boar or pig’s head ; also head and shoulders of some large fish,
Hure de sanglier (Fr,), Wild boar’s head.
1662
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Indienne (a I’) (Fr.). Indian style, peculiar to India.
Irlandaise (a I’) (Fr.). Irish style. This term is applied to dishes containing
potatoes in some form, either introduced during the process of cook-
ing, or else served round a dish to form its garnish.
Jambon (Fr.). Ham. Name given to the hind leg of pork, which is sailed
and cured or smoked.
Jambonneau (Fr.). A very small ham.
Jardiniere (Fr.). A garnish of mixed spring vegetables; vegetables stewed
down in their own sauce.
Jaune-Mange (Fr.). A kind of egg jelly made from gelatine, white wine,
lemons, sugar and eggs. It is so called on account of its yellow colour.
Jernik-Kal wasi. A Russian dish, consisting of semolina, milk and honey.
Julep. Ancient Arabian name for a cooling drink containing mucilage,
opium, etc. An American drink.
Julienne (Fr.). Name of a vegetable clear soup, first made in 1875 by a
cook named Jean Julien ; also a garnish consisting of fine strips of
mixed vegetables.
Junket (Eng.). From the Latin word juncus. Name of a favourite Devon-
shire dish, which consists of milk turned with rennet, double cream,
sugar and ground cinnamon or other flavouring. Usually served with
fruit, fresh or preserved.
Jus (Fr.). Juice, broth, gravy. The juice of cooked meats seasoned, but
without any liaison (thickening).
Kabobs (Khubab) or Kebobs. Name of a dish served in India and Turkey,
consisting of small slices of mutton run on skewers, and grilled or braised.
Kagne (Fr.). A sort of vermicelli.
Kaimak. A Russian sweet, similar to cream custard.
Kari. The translation in French or German of the English word “ curry.”
Kebobs. * Sec Kabobs.
Kedgeree (Kadgiori, Kitchri, or Kegeree). An Indian dish of fish and rice
curried. The name is taken from Khichri, an Indian dish, consisting
of boiled or salt fish, eggs and rice, garnished with hard-boiled eggs,
strips of chilli, etc.
Kelkel (Ger.). A slice of sole dried and salted.
Kickshaw (Eng.). Espice de ragout or charcuterie (Fr.). This is a name
used in cookery which may be given to any dish prepared with extra-
ordinary nicety ; but it is usually applied to such things as are regarded
luxuries by the rich.
Kldsse (Ger.). German dish, composed of small light balls boiled in water,
milk or gravy. They are made of bread, potatoes, rice and eggs, and
are varied with meat, fish or liver.
Knodel (Ger.). Bavarian name for a kind of small dumpling.
Koofthas. Name of an Indian dish ; a mince of meat or fowl curried, shaped
into balls and fried.
Kromeskis (Kromeskys, Cromeskis or Kromouskys). A Polish word, having
the same meaning as croquette in French. Balls or rolls of forcemeat
or of minced chicken and ham, wrapped in caul or bacon, braised or
crumbed, or else dipped in batter and fried in hot fat.
Lapins en accolade (Fr.). Brace of rabbits placed side by side on a dish.
L6gumes (Fr.). Vegetables or plants used as such.
Levure (Fr ). Luting. A flour and water paste used for fastening lids on
pie dishes in which game is preserved.
Livournais (a la) (Fr.). Leghorn style.
GLOSSARY OF CULINARY TERMS
1663
Lyonnaise (4 la) (Fr.). Lyonese style. As a garnish it generally signifies
that shredded onion (fried) has been introduced as the principal
ingredient.
Macaroni (It.). Thisisa peculiar paste prepared from flour and manufactured
into tubes. It is an Italian invention. The name is said to be derived
from a Greek word, meaning the blessed bread, in allusion to the
ancient custom of eating it at feasts for the dead.
Macaroons. Sweet biscuits made of almonds, sugar and the white of eggs.
Macedoine (Fr.). A mixture of various kinds of vegetables or fruits, cut in
even-shaped discs. The name is also applied to a collection of ripe
fruit imbedded in jelly and set in a mould, or a fruit salad flavoured
with liqueurs and syrup.
Macon (Fr.). A French wine grown in the neighbourhood of the town Macon.
Madeleine (Fr.). Small cakes or biscuits well known throughout France.
Also the name of a pear.
Madere (Fr.). Madeira wine. A Spanish wine very often used in cooking.
Maigre (au) (Fr.). A dish without meat. Applied to Lenten dishes.
Maintenon. Name of the Marchioness Franchise d’Aubigne ; born 1635,
died 1719 ; a great patroness of cooks, a born admirer of fine cooking.
Several dishes are called “ a la Maintenon,” usually signifying some-
thing broiled in a paper case. The dish “ Cotelettes de veau a la
Maintenon ” is said to have been invented by this lady, who was
Louis XIV’s favourite, and did all in her power to tempt the failing
appetite of the King when he was advanced in age.
Maitrank (Ger.). (May Drink.) A delicious beverage, originally consumed
in Germany — made of Hock or other white wine which is flavoured
with woodruff, lemon, bay-leaves and sugar.
Maitre d’Hotel (a la) (Fr.). Hotel stewards’ fashion. The name of a flavour-
ing butter, mixed With chopped parsley and seasoned with lemon-
juice, pepper and salt ; served on grilled meats. Dishes named Maitre
d’Hotel are usually composed of food quickly and plainly prepared,
parsley being the principal flavouring.
Maitre d’Hotel Sauce. A white sauce containing chopped parsley.
Marabout (Fr.). A very large coffee-pot.
Maraschino. Marasquin (Fr.). A delicately flavoured white liqueur, dis-
tilled from a species of cherry, grown in Dalmatia, used for flavouring
jellies and ices.
Marcassin (Fr.). Grice (Eng.). Young wild boar, generally cooked whole.
Maree (Fr.). A fresh seafish — i.e., seafish which is sold quite fresh.
Marinade (Fr.). A preparation of oil, herbs, vinegar, etc., in which fish or
meat is soused or pickled.
Marquer (Fr.). To prepare and arrange in a stewpan a piece of meat ready
for cooking.
Marsala (It.). A wine similar to Madeira, but made from a mixture of differ-
ent grapes ; named after a town in Sicily.
Marzipan (Ger.). Delicate German dessert dainties made from almond paste.
Masquer (Fr.). To sauce a dish which is ready for serving ; also to mask
the inside of a mould with savoury jelly, chaudfroid sauce or force-
meat, when required for entrees.
Massepan (Fr.). A French dessert pastry.
Mate. A Paraguayan tea. Its real name is Yerba de Mate ; it consists
of the pov'dered leaves of a South American species of holly and
green shoots of plants. This beverage has long been known to the
native Indians of South America.
Matelote (Fr.). A marine dish ; a rich fish stew with wine and herb
flavouring. Usually prepared from fresh -water fish — carp, tench, pike,
eel, etc.
1664 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Mayonnaise (Fr.). A kind of salad of fish or poultry, with a thick cold sauce
made of yolks of eggs, oil and vinegar. A salad sauce or dressing.
The sauce is said to have been invented by the chef to the Due de
Richelieu, after the victory of Mahon (Mahonnaise).
Mazagran. A French term for a glass of black coffee, sugar and water.
Mazarines (Fr.). Turbans. Forcemeat ornaments of fish, poultry or game.
Entrees consisting of combined fillets of meat and forcemeat.
Menu (Fr.). The bill of fare. Literally the word means minute detail of
courses. A list of the dishes which are to be served at a meal. Menus
were first used in 1541. Pronounce “ Menu ” as “ mennuu,” so that
the second syllable is sounded as something between “ new” and “ noo.”
Menu rot (Fr.). Small roast birds.
Menus droits (Fr.) Pig’s ears served up as an entree.
Merise, Meriser (Fr.). A wild cherry, wild cherry tree. The Kirschwasser
is made of this fruit.
Merluche (Fr.). Stock-fish, haddock — dried or smoked.
Mets (Fr.). The meal or dish. ‘‘ Mets de farine,” farinaceous; “entre-
mets de douceur,” sweet ; “ de legumes,” vegetable, etc.
Mignonette Pepper. Coarsely-ground white peppercorns. A form of com-
minuted pepper, which resembles mignonette seed when sifted.
Mijoter (Fr.). To cook slowly ; to simmer gently over a small fire.
Miliecantons (Fr.). Name of a small fish of the whitebait kind, found in the
Lake of Geneva, cooked in the same manner as whitebait. In season
in July and August.
Minute (a la) (Fr.). A surname given to dishes which are hurriedly prepared,
or anything cooked in the quickest possible style. Omelets and grills
come under this heading.
Mirabelles (Fr.). A kind of small yellow plum, very sweet and juicy, used
for compotes, fresh or dried.
Mirepoix (Fr.). The foundation preparation of vegetables, herbs and lard,
for brown soups and sauces ; also for braised meats, etc. Name
derived from the Duke de Mirepoix.
Mirlitons (Fr.). A kind of French pastry. Tartlets with a basis of puff paste
and filled with custard mixture.
Miroton (Fr.). Thin slices of meat, the size of a five-shilling piece, braised,
stewed and dished up in a circular form.
Mitonner (Fr.). To simmer, to soak. To steep and allow to boil during a
certain time.
Moelle de boeuf (Fr.). Beef marrow. The fatty substance in the hollow
part of bones.
Mont-Frigoul (Semoule Italienne) (Fr.). The name of a French soup.
Mortadelle (Fr.). A kind of sausage, largely manufactured in Bologna.
Mortifie (Fr.). Term applied to meat well hung.
Mote or Moti. Name of an Indian fish curry.
Mouiller (Fr.). To moisten. To add broth, water or any other suitable
juice during the cooking of meats.
Mousse (Fr.). A light ice-cream. Among the definitions given for the word
are : mossy, froth, and foam. Mousse frappec is a dish prepared with
whipped cream and flavouring, frozen without working. Hot puddings
are also prepared as mousses.
Mousseron (Fr.). A kind of white mushroom, principally used for ragouts.
Mulligatawny. An Indian curry soup ; a paste made of curry ; derives its
name from two words, tamil and mole goo, pepper and tun nee. Derived
from an East Indian word meaning pepper water.
Mure (Fr.). Mulberry. Black and white fruit of a delicate flavour. Used
for making jellies, syrups and vinegar.
Muscade (Fr.). Nutmeg or mace.
GLOSSARY OF CULINARY TERMS 1665
Muscat (Fr.). Muscadine (Eng.). A wine, also the grape producing it
(muscadine grape).
Muscovado. Name given to unrefined sugar.
Napolitaine (a la) (Fr.). Naples or Neapolitan style.
Napper (Fr.). To cover a dish with a layer of thick sauce, jelly or jam.
Naturel (Fr.) (an natural). Plain, simple. Plainly and quickly prepared.
Navarin (Fr.). A stew of mutton or lamb. A kind of haricot mutton. The
name is of ancient origin, being mentioned in one of the plays of Sodelle
in the early part of the seventeenth century. Turnips form the prin-
cipal garniture of a navarin.
Negus. Name of a hot drink composed of port wine, sugar, nutmeg and
lemon-juice ; so-called after Colonel Negus (in the reign of Queen
Anne).
Neige (Fr.). Snow. White of eggs beaten to a snow or a froth.
Nepaul pepper. A red pepper of the same character as cayenne and Guinee
pepper, being a species of capsicum of a sweet pungent flavour. It is
largely grown in Hindustan.
Nesselrode. Name of a pudding, iced, and flavoured with chestnuts, in-
vented by Mony, chef to the famous Count Nesselrode.
Niokes or Niokies. A farinaceous dish prepared with semolina or Indian
maize, flavoured with grated cheese, cream, etc. Of Russian inven-
tion.
Nivernaise (a la) (Fr.). Nivernese style.
Noix de muscat (Fr.). Nutmeg. The fruit of the nutmeg tree ; an aromatic
spice.
Noques (Fr.). An Italian farinaceous preparation. Small dumplings made
from flour, milk or cream, boiled in soup or salt water, and served as
garnish.
Normande (ala)(Fr.). Normandy style, with the exception of a dish known as
filets de soles a la Normande, and other fish entrees. The application
of this name implies that the flavour of apple has in some form or
other been introduced into the composition of the dish.
Nougat (Fr.). Almond rock candy. A sweetmeat made with sugar, honey,
almonds, pistachios, etc.
Nouilles (Fr.). Nudels. A German preparation, “ Nudeln.” It consists
of a stiff dough made with flour and eggs, rolled out very thinly, cut
up in thin strips and boiled, and served as garnish, or fried and served
as a sweet. When cooked nouilles resemble macaroni.
Noyau (Fr.). The stone of a fruit : a liqueur flavoured with peach or necta
rine kernels.
Okra. Name of a vegetable extensively used in South America. Used as a
vegetable and also for soup.
Orangeat (Fr.). Candied orange peel.
Orgeate (Fr.). Barley water or almond milk ; a favourite summer drink.
Orloff. A number of dishes or their garniture are thus styled. Orloff
is the name of a magnificent diamond, owned by the Russian Count
Alexis Orloff, who was known as a great gourmand and epicure.
Orly, also Horly. Name given to dishes prepared in a certain style. Usually
slices of fish or meat dipped in a rich batter and fried in fat.
Paillasse (Fr.). A grill over hot cinders.
Pain (Fr.). Bread, forcemeat, fruit puree, etc.
Pain d’epice (Fr.). Spiced bread ; a kind of gingerbread.
Palais de boeuf (Fr.) Ox palate.
Panache (Fr.). Striped, streaked, variegated. Mixed with two or more
lands of vegetables, fruits, etc. ; also salads, jellies, or creams.
J
H
i666
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Panada. Culinary paste of flour and water or soaked bread, used for pre-
paring forcemeat or stuffing.
Paner (Fr.). To egg and breadcrumb.
Pannequets or Crepes (Fr.). Pancakes.
Panurette (Fr.). A preparation of grated rusks, used for crumbing, for coating
the inside of moulds, and for decoration in place of lobster coral.
Paprica. The fleshy fruit of the green and red mild capsicum, grown in the
south of Europe, and used as spice for ragouts or salads.
Paprika. Hungarian red pepper. A kind of sweet capsicum of a brilliant
scarlet colour ; it is less pungent than the Spanish pepper.
Parisienne (d la) (Fr.). Parisian style. A surname applied to various kinds
of dishes, principally meat dishes, which are dressed in a more or less
elaborate style. No particular specification as to garnish or mode
of cooking can be given, as these vary in almost every dish thus styled.
Parmesan. Name of an Italian cheese, usually made from goat’s milk, largely
used for culinary purposes.
Passer (Fr.). Pass (Eng.). A word much used in cookery. To pass a sauce,
soup, vegetable or meat means to run it through a tammy cloth, sieve
or strainer. In culinary language the word " passer ” has also the
same meaning as faire revenir, i.e. to slightly fry in butter over a
quick fire so as to form a crusty surface on meats or vegetables which
are intended to be finished by some other process of cooking (usually
stewing or braising).
Pate eroquante (Fr.). Crisp almond and sugar paste.
Pate feuilletee (Fr.). Puff paste.
Pate frisee (Fr.). Short paste.
Pate pastillage (Fr.). Gum paste.
Pate (Fr.). A pie, pastry ; a savoury meat pasty or a raised pie.
Pate de Perigord. Name of a French pie, which derives its name from Peri-
gueux, a place celebrated for its truffles.
Pate-de-foie-gras (Fr.). A well-known delicacy prepared from the livers
of fat geese. Alsace is the country where the celebrated so-called
“ terrines de foie-gras” are made. This delicacy was first introduced
by a cook named Close.
Patiser (Fr.). To make pastry.
Patisserie (Fr. ). Pastry. A pastry cook’s business.
Paupiettes (Fr.). Slices of meat or fish rolled with forcemeat.
Paysanne (a la) (Fr.). Peasant's fashion. Prepared in a homely way.
Pepper Pot. A West Indian dish, consisting of stewed pickled pork or bacon,
shellfish, rice, vegetables, and aromatic herbs, highly seasoned with
cayenne, okra, chillies and cassareep.
P6rigord or Perigueux (a la) (Fr.). Perigord style. This name is applied to
dishes in which a truffle sauce or a garniture consisting of truffles has
been used.
Perry. (Eng.). Name of a beverage made of pears, similar to cider made of
apples. It contains but little alcohol, and when preserved in casks
or bottles it keeps good for some years.
Persillade (Fr.). A thick white sauce in which a large quantity of parsley
is used.
Petit lait (Fr.). Whey. The thin part of milk.
Petits pains (Fr.). Very small rolls scooped out and stuffed with
various kinds of savoury purees ; served as savoury or side dishes.
Petits pois verts (Fr.). Small green peas.
Pilau. A Turkish national dish, made of rice and onions, etc.
Pilcaithly Bannock. Name of a kind of Scotch shortbread, consisting of
flat round cakes, the paste being composed of flour, butter, sugar,
almonds, peel, and caraway seed.
Piece de resistance. The principal joint or other important dish of a dinner.
GLOSSARY OF CULINARY TERMS
1667
Pilaw. An Indian dish made of fish or meat and rice.
Pimento. Allspice. Jamaica pepper. A condiment possessing the combined
flavours of cinnamon, nutmeg, and cloves.
Piquante (Fr.). Sharp flavoured, stimulating, pungent or sour.
Piquer (Piquee) (Fr.). Larded. To insert narrow strips of fat bacon, truffles,
tongue, etc., into lean meat, poultry, game or fish.
Pistaches (Fr.). Pistachios. Kernels of the nut of the turpentine tree, used
for flavouring and garnishing galantines, sweets, etc. — an almond-
flavoured green nut.
Poele (Fr.). A cooking pot or pan.
Poeler (Fr.). A mode of braising meat, etc., in a firepi'oof earthenware pan
placed on a charcoal fire.
Polenta (It.). A standard Italian dish made of Indian cornflour. In appear-
ance and taste it resembles semolina.
Polio con Formaggio. Name of an Italian dish, composed of stewed chicken,
highly flavoured with Parmesan cheese.
Pollocowarroz. Name of an Italian dish consisting chiefly of rice stewed
in broth (stock).
Polonaise (a la) (Fr.). Polish style. There are two kinds of dishes known
under this name. The first is a kind of gratin style (baked), differing
somewhat from the ordinary way of baking au gratin. The other is
the more generally known, but little appreciated in this country,
its characteristic being to introduce the red juices of pickled beet-
root and red cabbage and sour cream into various dishes. Borsch
a la Polonaise and ragouts a la Polonaise are types of dishes in
which this peculiar flavour is introduced.
Posset. Hot milk curdled with wine, ale, vinegar, treacle or acid ; from the
Welsh, posel, curdled milk.
Potage (Fr.). Soup. A nourishing broth or liquor, forming the first course
of a dinner.
Pot-au-feu (Fr.) is an economical and wholesome beef broth. It is the stan-
dard dish of all classes in France, and the origin of beef stock.
Pot pourri. A stew of various kinds of meats and spices ; a favourite dish
in Spain.
Potrock. Name of a Russian thick soup.
Poularde (Fr.). A very fat fowl or fine pullet.
Poule-au-pot (Fr.). A boiled fowl served with reduced pot-liquor and vege-
tables.
Poulet en casserole. Chicken fried and basted with butter in an earthen-
ware stewpan. When the chicken is browned in the butter the lid
is put on the stewpan, and it is allowed to cook slowly till done, being
basted occasionally.
Poulet a la Reine (Fr.). Chicken dressed with white sauce. Name given
to fine specimens of young chickens.
Poulette (Fr.). A young hen. A sauce made of flour, stock, butter and
chopped herbs, used for the dishes prepared “ a la poulette.”
Poulpeton or Polpetti. Slices of veal with minced meat.
Poupelin (Fr.). A kind of pastry.
Poupeton (Fr.). A ragout of fish or flesh enclosed in rice and baked brown.
Praline (Fr.). Burnt almond.
Praline (Fr.). Flavoured with burnt almonds.
Pre-sale (Fr.). Meat of prime mutton (Southdown mutton).
Profiteroles (Fr.). A kind of light cake, baked in hot ashes, and filled with
cream or custard.
Provenpale (a la) (Fr.). A surname for certain French dishes, indicating
generally that garlic or onion and olive oil has been used in the
preparation.
Pumpernickel (Ger.). Westphalian brown bread.
1 668
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Punch a la Romaine (Fr.). A kind of soft white ice, made from lemon-juice
white of egg, sugar, and rum. It is served in goblets, usually after
the remove, and acts as a digestive. It forms a sort of interlude be-
tween two acts of that grand play — the dinner.
Pur6e (Fr.). A smooth pulp, mashed vegetables, thick soup. The name is
also given to meat or fish which is cooked, pounded in a mortar, and
passed through a sieve.
Quark (Ger.). Name of a German cheese, similar to curd cheese, known in
France as “ fromage mou.”
Quartier d’agneau (Fr.). A quarter of lamb.
Quasi de veau (Fr.). The chump end of a loin of veal.
Quenefres (Fr.). An Italian paste, similar to macaroni — used for soups, etc.
Quenelles (Fr.). Forcemeat of different kinds, composed of fish, poultry or
meat, eggs, etc., shaped in various forms — balls, ovals, etc., poached,
and served as an entree or garnish to soup, etc.
Queue (Fr.). Tail. “ Queues de boeuf,” “ queues d’ecrevisses.” Ox-tail,
crayfish tails, etc.
Quoorma. Name of a very mild Indian curry.
Rafraichir (Fr.). To refresh or cool by immersion in cold water or re-
frigeration.
Ragout (Fr.). A rich stew of meat, highly seasoned.
Ramequin (Fr.). Ramakin. Cheese fritter ; sma.ll fondues served in china
or paper cases.
Raper (Fr.). To scrape, shred, rasp or grate.
Ratafie or Ratafia. A culinary essence ; the essence of bitter almonds.
A special kind of almond biscuits, in the shape of drops, are called
ratafias. The name is also given to a liqueur flavoured with almonds.
Raton (Fr.). A kind of cheesecake.
Ravigote (Fr.). A very richly flavoured green herb sauce; served cold.
First heard of in 1720. Ducereau, a French writer, mentions it in
one of his poems.
Ravioles (Fr.). Small round nouille-paste dumplings, filled with spinach,
forcemeat, etc. Used as garniture for soups.
Rechauffe (Fr.). Warmed-up meat recooked or redressed.
Rechauffer. To re-heat.
Reduire (Fr.). To boil down, to reduce ; to boil liquid gradually to a desired
consistency.
Relever (Fr.). To remove, to turn up, to raise.
Releve (Fr.). The remove. A course of a dinner, consisting of large joints
of meat, four-footed game, and sometimes joints of fish.
Remouillage (Fr.). Second stock.
Remoulade (Fr.). A cold sauce, flavoured with savoury herbs and mustard,
used as salad-dressing, etc.
Renaissance (Fr.). Something reintroduced. A word used for dishes of
modern invention.
Rennet. The name given to the prepared inner membrane of a calf’s, pig’s,
hare’s or fowl’s stomach ; used for curdling or coagulating milk.
Rillettes (Fr.). A French savoury meat preparation, used for hors d’oeuvres
and savouries.
Ris de veau (Fr.). Calf’s sweetbread.
Rissole ( ee) (Fr.). Well browned, fried or baked, covered with crumbs.
Rissoles (Fr.). A mixture of minced fish or meat, enclosed in paste, half-
moon shapes, and fried in fat or butter.
Rissolettes. Similar to rissoles ; thin pancakes being used in place of paste.
Rizzered Kaddie. The name of a Scotch dish, made from haddocks or cod-
fish dried in the sun.
GLOSSARY OF CULINARY TERMS
1669
Rognons (Fr.). Kidneys.
Romaine (Fr.). Cos lettuce. “ A la Romaine,” Roman style.
Romankeintjes (Du.). A Dutch pastry made of eggs, sugar, and almonds.
Roquefort (Fr.). Roquefort, a highly-esteemed French cheese.
Roti (Fr.). The roast, indicating the course of a meal which is served before
the entremets. Roast meat, poultry, and game.
Roulade (Fr.). Roll, rolling. Rolled meat smoked and cooked.
Roux (Fr.). A preparation of butter and flour for thickening soups and
sauces.
Royal. Name of an egg custard used for garnishing clear soups. Also the
name applied to an icing (glace royale), made with whites of egg and
icing sugar, and used for coating and decoration.
Sabayon (Fr.). Pudding sauce, composed of cream or milk, sugar, white wine,
and eggs.
Saeeharometer. A culinary thermometer. An instrument to test the various
degrees of heat for cooking.
Saignant (Fr..). Underdone, bloody.
Saindoux (Fr.). Hog’s lard. Used for frying and for modelling socles,
flowers, etc.
Salade (Fr.). Salad. Raw herbs, edible plants, raw and cooked vegetables,
etc., dressed with oil and vinegar.
Salamandre (Fr.). An utensil which, after being made red hot, is used for
browning any dishes that want colour.
Saler (Fr.). To salt, to season with salt. “ Saler de la viande,” to cure
meat.
Saleratus. A kind of baking powder, consisting of potash, incorporated
with an acid. A natural mineral water.
Sally Luns or Lunn. Name of a kind of tea-cake, slightly sweetened and
raised with brewer’s yeast. Sally Lunn was a pastrycook who, at
the close of the eighteenth century, used to make and sell a kind of
tea-biscuits known as Sally Lunns. She used to sell these in the streets
of Bath.
Salmagundi. Name of a very old English supper dish. It is a kind of meat
salad, mixed and decorated with hard-boiled eggs, anchovy, pickles,
and beetroot.
Salmi or Salmis. A hash made of half-roasted game.
Salpieon. A mince of poultry or game with ham, tongue, and mushrooms,
used for croquettes, bouchees, rissoles, etc.
Salsify or Salsifis. An edible plant ; sometimes called oyster plant, the
flavour of the root resembling somewhat that of the oyster.
Salzgurken (Ger.). A German pickle served with boiled or roast meats,
made of cucumbers soused in salt water.
Samp. A food composed of coarsely-ground maize, boiled and eaten with
milk (American dish).
Sanbaglione. A delicious sweet chocolate cream, served in glasses either
hot or cold.
Sangaree. The name of an Indian punch drink. It is made with sherry,
.water, lemon-juice, and sugar.
Sangler (Fr.). To strap, to girth. To prepare the ice mixture ready for
freezing. One part of salt to five parts of broken ice is the proper
proportion used for freezing.
Sapaceau (Fr.). An egg punch.
Sarbotiere (Fr.). A pewter freezing-pot or freezing-pan.
Sassafras. The name of an agreeable beverage much drunk in North America,
A tree of the laurel family.
Sasser (Fr.). To sift. To stir rapidly with a spoon in a stewpan.
Sauce piquante (Fr.). A sharp sauce,
1670
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Saucer (Fr.). To sauce over the contents of a dish.
Sauciere (Fr.). A sauceboat. A deep narrow-shaped dish, in which sauce
is served.
Saucisse (Fr.). French pork sausages.
Saucisson (Fr.). Smoked sausages.
Sauerkraut (Ger.). Choucroute (Fr.). Sourlcrout (Eng.). A kind of pickled
cabbage ; cabbage preserved in brine. A national dish of Germany.
Served hot with bacon or sausages.
Saugrenee (Fr.). A French process of cooking, implying stewed with a little
water, butter, salt, and herbs. Despois a la saugrenee are stewed peas,
cooked as above described.
Saur (Fr.). Smoke-dried.
Saurer (Fr.). To dry or cure in smoke.
Saute-pan. Sautoire (Fr.). A shallow, thin-bottomed cooking-pan made
of copper.
Sauter (ee) (Fr.). To toss over the fire, in a saute or frying-pan, with little
butter or fat. Anything that requires a sharp fire and quick cooking.
Sauterne (Fr.). A French white wine, produced at Sauterne, in the Gironde,
France ; much used in cookery.
Schmorbraten (Ger.). A German dish, consisting of rump of beef braised
(a la mode fashion), garnished with mushrooms, gherkins, and braised
vegetables.
Scots Kail. Name of a thick broth ; a kind of pot-au-feu, served as a stand-
ing dish in Scotland. A variety of cabbage.
Sevigne (Fr.). A French soup named after the Marchioness Sevigne, of
Rabutin-Chantal, a French authoress, born 1626, died 1696.
Sillsillat. A Swedish dish ; a salad of pickled herring, with mussels, meat,
eggs, onion and beetroot.
Simnel cake. A Lenten or Easter cake, with raised crust, coloured with
saffron, the interior being filled with the materials of a very rich plum
pudding. They are made up v&ry stiff, boiled in a cloth for several
hours, then brushed over with egg, and baked.
Singer (Fr.). To imitate. To dust with flour from the dredging-box.
Slapjack. A kind of broad flat pancake.
Sling. A drink made of rum and water, sweetened with grated nutmeg.
Socles. Stands of fat, rice, etc., used to raise entrees, etc., above the level
of the dish.
Sorbet (Fr.). An iced Turkish drink. Also the name of a water ice with
fruit or liqueur flavour, usually served in goblets.
Soubise (Fr.). A smooth onion pulp served with various kinds of meat
entrees. The name is supposed to come from Prince Charles Soubise
(born 1715, died 1787), who was a celebrated epicure. He served
as a field-marshal during the reign of Louis XIV of France. As a
surname to dishes, a la Soubise is generally applied when onions enter
largely into the composition of a dish ; the term implies a strong
onion flavour, or a garnish of onion puree.
Souffle (Fr.). A very light baked or steam pudding; an omelet. Also
applied to light savoury creams.
Souffle glae6 (Fr.). A very 'light sweet cream mixture, iced and served in cases.
Soy. The name of a dark-brown sauce, originally made in Japan ; there
are many English relishes in which soy is employed as one of tire
ingredients.
Spaghetti (It.). An Italian cord-like paste, intermediate in size between
macaroni and vermicelli.
Spread Eagle (Eng.). Poulet a la Crapotine (Fr.). ■ A young fat chicken
split down the back, flattened, breast bone removed, seasoned, oiled
or buttered, and grilled or baked.
Squab (Eng.). A young pigeon ; name used particularly in North America,
GLOSSARY OF CULINARY TERMS
1671
Squab chicken, a young chicken, applicable to animals while young,
fat, and clumsy. Squab pie is therefore primarily a (young) pigeon pie.
Such a pie becomes Devonshire squab pie by the addition of apples.
Squab pigeons — innocents of French cooks.
Steel'd. A Russian oatmeal soup.
Stirabout. Name of an Irish dish similar to Scotch porridge.
Succotash. An American dish made of green corn and Lima beans. The
dish is said to be borrowed from the Narraganset Indians, known to
them as msickquatash.
Suedoise (a la) (Fr.). Swedish style.
Supreme (Fr.). A rich, delicately flavoured cream sauce, made from chicken
stock, etc.
Syllabub. A kind of milk punch flavoured with liqueurs and spices. Usually
served in glasses.
Tagliarini (It.). A kind of macaroni paste cut in fine shreds.
Tailler la soups (Fr.). A culinary expression. Thin slices or crusts of bread
placed in a soup tureen are called tailler. “ Tremper la soupe ” is
the French term applied when the broth is poured over the slices.
Talmouse (Fr.). A kind of French pastry, sweet or savoury, made in the shape
of parsons’ caps.
Tamis (Fr.). Tammy. Woollen canvas cloth which is used for straining
soups and sauces.
Tansy (Eng.). A herb with strong aromatic flavour, sometimes used for
flavouring in puddings. A variety of custard.'
Tarragon (Eng.). Estragon (Fr.). Aromatic plant used for flavouring
vinegar, sauces, etc.
Tartare (Fr.). A cold sauce, made of yolks of egg, oil. mustard, capers,
gherkins, etc., served with fried fish or cold meats ; also a salad dressing.
Terrapin. South American, fresh-water and tidal turtle, very little known
and used in England.
Terrine (Fr.). A small earthenware pan or pot, used for potting foie-gras,
pates and potted meats. A tureen for soup.
Tete de veau (Fr.). Calf’s head.
Timbale (Fr.). Literally “ kettle-drum.” A kind of crusted hash baked
in a mould.
Tobasco. Name of a savoury Indian dish.
Toddy. An American punch. The fundamental juice of various palms of
the East Indies ; a mixture of whisky, sugar, and hot water.
Tokai (Fr.). Tokay (Eng.). A wine produced at Tokay, in Hungary ; a
variety of grape.
Tom and Jerry. An American drink of hot rum and eggs, spiced and sweet-
ened ; an egg punch.
Tomber a glace (Fr.). To reduce a liquid till it has the appearance of a thick
syrup.
Tonalchile (Fr. ). Guinea pepper.
Topinambours (Fr.). Jerusalem artichokes.
Tortue (Fr.). Turtle ; also called sea-tortoise.
Toulouse (a la) (Fr.). A rich white stew of white meats, mushrooms, truffles,
etc., used for filling crusts or for garnishing.
Tournedos (Fr.). Small thin fillets of beef served as entrees. First served
in Paris in 1855.
Tourner (Fr.). To turn. To stir a sauce ; also to pare and cut roots.
Tourte (Fr.). An open tart baked in a round shallow tin ; also a flat dough
case in which ragouts are served.
Tourtelettes (Fr.). Small tartlets.
Tranche (Fr.). Slice. Mostly applied to salmon, cod, etc.
TrautmannsdorsT (Ger.). Name of an Austrian count, born 1749, died 1827.
Several sweets are styled after his name.
1672
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
Trousscr (Fr.). To tie up, to truss a bird.
Truffer (Fr.). To garnish a sauce with truffles, or to season the interior of
poultry or game with truffle stuffing, such as capons, turkeys, and
pheasants.
Truite saumonee (Fr.). Salmon trout.
Tutti-frutti (It.). An Italian expression for various kinds of fruits, or a
mixture of cooked vegetables.
Tyrolienne (4 la) (Fr.). Tyrolean style.
Usquebaugh. The name of an Irish beverage (whisky), consisting of a com-
pound spirit made with spices and sugar.
Vanilie (a la). Flavoured with vanilla.
Vanner (Fr.). To stir a sauce quickly so as to work it up lightly in order to
make it smooth.
Venitienne (d la) (Fr.). Venetian style.
Veloute (Fr..). A rich white sauce. Foundation sauce.
Vermicelle (Fr.). Vermicelli (It.). Very fine rolls of paste, made from the
dough of wheat flour, and forced through cylinders or pipes till it takes
a slender, worm-like form, when it is dried ; used in soups, puddings,
and for crumbing.
Vert-pre (Fr.). Name of a green herb sauce or garnish.
Viande (Fr.). Meat, viands. An ancient name for victuals.
Viennoise (a la). Vienna or Viennese style.
Vin blane (au) (Fr.). Dressed with white wine.
Vinaigre (Fr.). Vinegar. Vinaigrer, to season with vinegar.
Vinaigrette (Fr.). A sauce of vinegar, oil, pepper, and herbs.
Volaille (Fr.). Poultry, chicken.
Vol-au-vent (Fr.). A light round puff paste crust, filled with delicately-
flavoured ragouts of chicken, sweetbread, etc. (a la financiere).
Voliere. Birdcage style of dressing poultry or game.
Vopalliere. A dish of small chicken fillets, larded and braised, served with
truffle sauce.
Vraie tortue (Fr.). Real turtle.
Xeres (Sp.). Spanish strong wine of deep amber colour and aromatic
flavour ; so-called from Xeres, a place near Cadiz.
Zabyajone (It.). A frothing mixture of wine, yolks of eggs and sugar, thick-
ened over the fire and served hot in glasses.
Zambagliona. A kind of chocolate cream, served in glasses either hot or
cold.
Zephire (Fr.). Name of a small oval-shaped forcemeat dumpling, a kind
of quenelle, poached and served with a rich sauce.
Zuppa al brodo. A fish broth with toasted bread and cheese.
Zythum or Zythos. A liquid made from malt and wheat ; a kind of malt
beverage.
ENGLISH AND FRENCH
NAMES OF ARTICLES
OF FOOD
CHAPTER LXIII
SOUP -
- POTAGE
English.
French.
English.
French.
Clear Soup
Consomme
Thick Soup
Puree
Broth
Bouillon
FISH —
POISSON
Anchovy
Anchois, m.
Mullet, red
Rouget, m.
Barbel
Barbeau, m.
Perch
Perche, f.
Bream
Breme, f.
Pike
Brochet, m.
Brill
Barbue, f.
Plaice
Plie, f.
Carp
Carpe, f.
Roe
Laitance, f.
Cod
Cabillaud, m.
Salmon
Saumon, m.
Cod, salt
Morue, f.
Sardine
Sardine, f.
Conger eel
Congre, m.
Scallop
Petoncle, f.
Dace
Vandoise, f.
Shad
Alose, f.
Dorey
Doree, f.
Skate
Raie, f.
Eel
Anguille, f.
Smelt
Eperlan, m.
Flounder
Limande, f., Car-
Sole
Sole, f.
relet, m.
Sprat
Harenguet, m.
Gudgeon
Goujon, m.
Sturgeon
Esturgeon, m.
Gurnet
Grondin, m.
Tench
Tanche, f.
Haddock
Eglefin, m.
Trout
Truite, f.
Hake
Merlus, m.
Trout, Salmon
Truite Saumo-
Halibut
Fletau, m.
nee, f.
Herring
Hareng, m.
Tunny
Thon, m.
Ling
Lingue, f.
Turbot
Turbot, m.
Mackerel
Maquereau, m.
Whitebait
Blanchaille, f.
Mullet, grey
Mulet, m.
Whiting
Merlan, m.
SHELLFISH -
- COQUILLAGES
Crab
Crabe, m.
Mussel
Moule, f.
Crayfish
j-Ecrevisse, f.
Oyster
ITuitre, f.
Crawfish
Prawn
Crevette, f.
Lobster
Shrimp
Crevette, f,
1673
1674 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
MEAT — VIANDE
English.
French.
English.
French.
Beef
Boeuf, m.
Neck of mutton
Carre de mouton
Veal
Veau, m.
Palate
Palais, m.
Mutton
Mouton, m.
Quarter
Quartier, m.
Lamb
Agneau, m.
Rib
Cote, f.
Pork
Pore, m.
Rump
Culotte, f.
Sucking-pig
Cochon de lait, m.
Sausage
Saucisse, f.
Brains
Cervelles, f.
,, flat
Crepinette, f.
Breast
Poitrine, f.
Shoulder
Epaule, f.
Chine
Echine, f.
Sirloin
Aloyau, m.
Cutlet
Cotelette; f.
Steak
Bifteck, m.
Fillet
Filet, m.
Sweetbread
Ris de veau, m.
Kidney
Rognon, m.
Tail
Queue, f.
Knuckle
Cuissot, m.
Tongue
Langue, f.
Leg
Gigot, m.
Ear
Oreille, f.
Liver
Foie, i.
Head
Tete, f.
Loin
Longe, f.
Saddle
Selle, f.
Neck
Carre, m.
Slice
Tranche, f.
Neck (scrag end)
Cou, m.
Trotters, feet
Pieds, m.
GAME, POULTRY —
GIB1ER, VOLAILLE
Black Game
Coq de bruyere,
Pigeon (young)
Pigeonneau, m.
m.
„ wild
Rainier, m.
Capon
Chapon, m.
Pintail
Pintade, m.
Chicken
Poulet, m.
Pheasant
Faisan, m.
Duck
Canard, m.
Plover, Golden
Pluvier, m.
,, wild
,, sauvage, m.
,, Green
Vanneau, m.
Duckling
Caneton, m.
Poularde
Poularde, f.
Fowl
Poulet, m.
Prairie Hen
Poule de Prairie
Goose
Oie, f.
Quail
Caille, f.
Gosling
Oison, m.
Rabbit
Lapin, Lapereau
Grouse
Grouse, m.
Roe Deer
Chevreuil, f.
Guinea Fowl
Pintade, f.
Snipe
Becassine, f.
Hare
Lievre, m.
Teal
Sarcelle, f.
Lark
Mauviette, f.
Turkey
Dindon, m. din
Leveret
Levraut, m.
de, f.
Ortolan,
Ortolan, m.
,, poult
Dindonneau, m.
Partridge
Perdrixe, f.
Venison
Venaisan, f.
„ (young
)Perdreau, m.
Widgeon
Canard siffleur
Pigeon
Pigeon, m.
Woodcock
Becasse, f.
ENGLISH AND FRENCH NAMES OF ARTICLES OF FOOD 1675
English.
VEGETABLES -
French.
Artichoke, Jeru
-
salem
Topinambour, m.
Artichokes, bot-
Fond d’arti-
tom
chaut, m.
Artichoke, globe
Artichaut, m.
Asparagus
Asperge, f.
Beans, broad
Feves, f.
,, French
Haricot-vert, m.
,, haricot
,, blanc, m.
Beetroot
Betterave, f.
Broccoli
Brocoli. m.
Brussels sprouts Clioux de Bru-
Cabbage
xelles, m.
Chou, m.
,, red
,, rouge, m.
Capers
Capres, f.
Cauliflower
Choufleur, m.
Carrot
Carotte, f.
Celery
Celeri, m.
Chervil
Cerfeuil, m.
Chestnut
Marron, m.
Cucumber
Concombre, m.
Cress
Cresson, m.
Endive
Cliicoree, f.
Almond
FRUITS
Armande, f.
Apple
Pomme, f.
Banana
Banane, f.
Blackberry
Muron, m.
Cherry
Cerise, f.
Chestnut
Marron, m.
Cranberry
Canneberge, f.
Currant
Raisin de Cor-
inthe, m.
Currant, white Groseille blanche ,f.
red
,, rouge, f.
,, black
,, noire, f.
Date
Datte, f.
Fig
Figue, f.
Filbert
Aveline, f.
Gooseberry
Groseille verte, f.
Grapes
Raisins, m.
Greengage
Prune, f.
LEGUMES
English. French.
Eschalot or shalot Echalote, f.
Gherkin
Cornichon, m.
Green Peas
Pois verts, f.
Horseradish
Raifort, nr.
Kale, Scotch
Chou Ecossais.m.
Leek
Poireau, m.
Lettuce
Laitue, f.
Lentil
Lentille, f.
Marjoram
Origan, m.
,, sweet
Marjolaine, f.
Mushroom
Champignon, m
Onion
Oignon, nr.
Parsley
Persil, nr.
Parsnip
Panais, nr.
Peas
Petits pois, nr.
Pumpkin
Courge, f.
Salsify
Salsifis, m.
Seakale
Chou de mer, m.
Sorrel
Oseille, f.
Spinach
Epinards, nr.
Tarragon
Estragon, nr.
Tomato
Tomate, f.
Turnip
Navet, m.
Watercress
Cresson, nr.
FRUITS
Hazel nut
Noisette, f.
Lemon
Citron, m.
Medlar
Nefle, f.
Melon
Melon, m.
Mulberry
Mure, f.
Nectarine
Brugnon, nr.
Nut
Noix, f.
Olive
Olive, f.
Orange
Orange, f.
,, Tangerine
Mandarine, f.
Peach
Peche, f.
Pear
Poire, f.
Plum
Prune, f.
Pomegranate
Grenade, f.
Quince
Coing, nr.
Raspberry
Framboise, f.
Strawberry
Fraise, f.
Walnut
Noix, f.
MEALS:
THEIR IMPORTANCE AND
ARRANGEMENT
CHAPTER LXIV
General Observations on Family and Wedding Break-
fasts, Luncheons, Dinners, Teas, and Suppers
One of the chief considerations of life is, or ought to be, the food
we eat, for our physical well-being depends mainly on diet. The
perfect adjustment of diet can only be maintained by a combination
of certain factors, of which suitable food and good cooking may be
considered the most important.
One important consideration with regard to meals is their regularity,
and speaking from the health point of view, it is most essential. A
meal that we have waited for an hour too long is often one that we fail
to appreciate ; and while to the healthy irregularity is dangerous, to
the delicate it is injurious. It is not difficult to determine what are
the best and most convenient times to take our meals, and when once
these hours are fixed, the next thing is to insist on punctuality, not
only for those who serve them, but for those for whom they are pre-
pared. Food cooked to a nicety cannot afford to wait ; good things
are spoilt, and waste and discontent are the result, if people are not
ready to partake of what is prepared at a given time.
The composition, properties and preparation of food have already
been fully treated in preceding chapters, and the following pages will
simply convey to the reader a few items of useful information regarding
the meals themselves. These necessary particulars should soon become
matters of common knowledge, as instruction in every branch of domes-
tic science now forms part of the curriculum of almost every school
in the kingdom.
When the laws which govern the application of heat are once grasped,
the fundamental difficulties of roasting, boiling, grilling and frying are
1676
MEALS: THEIR IMPORTANCE AND ARRANGEMENT 1677
overcome, but this by no means comprises the whole art of cookery.
Such culinary artists as Ude, Careme and Francatelli owe their fame
as Chefs-de-Cuisine to their ingenuity in originating new methods and
new dishes, their skill in manipulation, and their care in combining
seasonings and flavourings in such perfect proportions that no parti-
cular ingredient was allowed to predominate. Moreover, they not
only raised cookery to a fine art, but their influence in the direction
of refinement and elegance eliminated much that was gross in the Eng-
lish mode of living. Francatelli, who has been termed the “ Father
of Modern Chefs,” strongly advocated simplicity in both cooking and
service. The introduction of the dinner a la Russe was in a great
measure due to his efforts, and this arrangement is now so popular that
it is adopted in almost every household where a sufficient number of
servants are kept to allow the food to be handed round. There are
still a few old-fashioned people who prefer the older custom of having
all the dishes placed upon the table, and of course this custom must
always prevail in lower middle-class households ; but it is almost gener-
ally agreed that it is much more artistic and agreeable to have nothing
displayed but fruit and flowers, however simple and inexpensive these
may be. Pleasant and appropriate surroundings contribute largely
to the enjoyment of a meal, and as our meals, whether elaborate or
simple, are an important item in the sum total of domestic happiness,
the greatest possible care should be bestowed on their preparation and
service.
In giving a dinner it is far better to have a simple meal, which one
knows will be properly cooked and served, than to risk anything
elaborate, for it is difficult to appear utterly unconcerned when one is
harassed by petty cares, and a thoroughly good hostess is one who is
able herself to enjoy, without anxiety, the dinner she is giving to her
friends.
The temperature of the room is a very important subject that is
often overlooked.
It is not possible to thoroughly enjoy a good dinner in a room either
too hot or too cold, and hostesses should well consider this matter.
Table Arrangements. — There are a few general rules which apply equally
to mansion and cottage. However simple may be the meal, and how-
ever coarse in texture the cloth, it should be clean, free from creases,
and arranged smoothly with the centre fold forming a true line the
whole length of the table. The knives should be clean, bright and
sharp, and the silver clean and well polished. When properly trained
servants are kept, contrary conditions seldom exist ; neither would
they in small households, where the work devolves upon an inexper-
ienced housemaid, if a few simple rules were strictly enforced, such as
removing the crumbs and folding the cloth on the table, instead of allow-
ing it to be shaken and folded outside the room ; that after each meal
all knives should be cleaned and made ready for use ; and, what is
1678
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT
still more important, that such articles as silver-plated dishes, spoons,
etc., after having gone through the ordinary process of washing-up,
should be re-washed with soap and hot water, and well polished with
a leather. Apart from the fact that silver thus treated always pre-
sents a bright and well-preserved appearance, there is the further con-
sideration of the silver being kept in good condition without a frequent
application of plate powder, which, however fine it may be, ultimately
destroys the plated surface.
A baize covering for dining-tables cannot be too strongly recom-
mended, for it enables the tablecloth to lie better, and it is more pleasant
to the touch with some soft thick substance beneath it. Sometimes
the baize is drawn under the edges of the table by means of a string
run through the hem, but it may be stretched more tightly when
fastened underneath with small tacks, and this without the least
injury to the table. Grey felt is preferred by many, because it is
less likely to stain the cloth than a coloured substance, and is also less
expensive.
Tablecloths and table-napkins should be of as good a quality as
means will afford, alike in design when possible, and in Chapter LXVI.
will be found full instructions for folding serviettes.
Table-linen should be very slightly starched, for, if made too stiff,
the corners of the tablecloths, instead of falling in natural folds, stand
out in an awkward fashion, and the table-napkins are unpleasant to
use.
A good rule is to allow 24 inches for each person’s accommodation.
Where the table is necessarily a little too large, a little more room does
not matter, but on no account give less, for there is no greater misery
than to be crowded.
FAMILY AND WEDDING BREAKFASTS
Breakfast. — The word breakfast is an abbreviation of “ breaking the
fast.” The German word for this is “ Friihstiick ” (early bit), and
the French give to their first meal the name of Dejeuner a la Tasse,
because this early repast is a simple one, consisting merely of a roll, or
bread and butter, and a cup of coffee or chocolate. The French De-
jeuner a la Fourchette is almost identical with the English luncheon.
It generally comprises a variety of more or less substantial dishes,
served with wine or other beverages, but not tea or coffee, unless taken
after the meal, and is termed “ Fourchette,” because it consists of
food eaten with a fork. The French Dejeuner a la Tasse really corre-
sponds with the English “ early tea,” or “ early coffee,” and, like i 
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